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Cagliari
Summer - Autumn 2014

Fun in the Sun

Sightseeing, beaches and so much more

Eating out

Sample Cagliaris rich culinary traditions

Shopping

Boutiques and bargains, fashion and food

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Contents

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy
Online

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Arriving & Basics 5 Culture & Events 9

Where to stay 11 Where to eat 14 Nightlife 18

The Cathedral Comune di Cagliari

What to see 19 Getting Around 27 Shopping 30 Lifestyle Directory 33

Maps & Index

Street register 35 Transport map 36-37 City map 38-39 City centre map 40-41 Index 42

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15:37 Summer 12/12/13 - Autumn 2014

Foreword
Nestling in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea Sardinia is a jewel waiting to be discovered boasting breath-taking coastlines, crystal clear waters and a rich historic background. However, for many years Cagliari, the chief town, remained slightly o the beaten track as a tourist destination. Indeed it was more of an arrival or departure point for tourists travelling on to other destinations on the island. Today good connections to mainland Italy and all major European cities mean that Cagliari is now rmly established on the map and attracts visitors from all over the world. Cagliaris rich history can be traced in the beautiful architecture which characterizes the heart of the city. It is in fact divided into four ancient districts (Castello, La Marina, Stampace and Villanova) and each boasts unique character and its own wealth of gems. Rising up from the glistening waters of the port the highest point is Castello, which looks out majestically onto the Gulf of Angels (Golfo degli Angeli) below down over the narrow cobbled streets of Stampace and La Marina districts. The panorama unfolds over the bobbing sailboats in the harbour, across the new residential areas and the salt lakes of the Molentargius Saline Park and out towards Poetto Beach as far as the towering headland of Devils Saddle (Sella del Diavolo). Cagliari is a bustling, vibrant city which has grown rapidly in recent years to combine places of great cultural interest with important sporting events, entertainment and nightlife. Visitors can spend their days strolling through the old town, visiting the numerous galleries and museums and browsing craft shops, or just sipping coee in a bar while watching the world go by. However, the charm of Cagliari perhaps lies in the fact that in the transformation to a modern tourist destination the city has managed to preserve the quaint and quirky atmosphere of a sleepy, Mediterranean town steeped in ancient history and traditions. So when you come to Cagliari enjoy a journey back through time, savour the fragrances, sample the delicacies and discover the citys secrets but all in comfort and style.

Arriving & Basics

SYMBOL KEy
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted N No credit cards Cagliari In Your Pocket C I TY italia@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN: 2240-9912 IYP Italia S.r.l. Published in Genoa by IYP Italia S.r.l. con Socio unico Via San Vincenzo 2 - XI piano 16121 Genoa, Italy Printed by Sainas Industrie Grache, Villaspeciosa, Italy Maps courtesy of Comune di Cagliari and CTM S.p.A. Editor in Chief Maria Marongiu Contributor Katharine Jenkins Design Vaida Gudynait Cover photo Molentargius Saline Park, Patrizia Figus Sales Management Silvia Melis Project Manager Lorenzo Marsano Special Thanks Antonina Gaspa, Rosa Olcese Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Cagliari n. 4 del 27/1/2012 Responsabile del trattamento dei dati (legge 675/96): Lorenzo Marsano H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking

E S S E N TI A L GUIDES

T Child-friendly F Fitness centre

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant D Sauna Cagliari - Elmas Airport Giorgio Melis - SOGAER E Live music J Old town location C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi

ARRiViNG by plaNE
CagliaRi-Elmas AiRPORT Located about 7km from the city centre, it is the biggest and busiest airport in Sardinia, well connected to most major Italian and European destinations. It has car rental kiosks, ATMs, a tourist information desk (open 09:00 19:00), conference facilities, a pharmacy and a small selection of shops and food outlets. The cheapest and easiest way to the city is to take a train. The railway station can be found by exiting the arrival hall and following the signs. Trains to Cagliari depart up to four times per hour between 06:00 and 22:20. The trip takes 5-6 minutes and costs 1.25. Alternatively, getting to the city centre takes between 10-15 minutes by taxi (15 - 25), and add just a few more minutes if travelling by bus. Regional bus company ARST operates from the airport to the bus station between 05:20 and 22:30. Ticket is 4 when purchased in advance or 5 from the driver. Have exact change ready when you buy the ticket on board.Qvia dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 21 12 11, fax (+39) 070 24 10 13, info@ cagliariairport.it, www.cagliariairport.it. PUGW

station and must be clipped once on board. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the bus, but expect a surcharge. BUs STaTiOn (STaZiOne ARST) The bus station is very centrally located, adjacent to the train station and no more than a ve-minute walk to piazza Yenne. Facilities include left luggage (deposito bagagli ), a fast food restaurant, an ATM and a Hertz car rental kiosk.QB-4, piazza Matteotti 9, tel. (+39) 070 73 24 22 2/800 86 50 42, informazioni.ca@arst.sardegna.it, www.arst.sardegna.it. Ticket office open 06:30 - 20:30.

ARRiViNG by FERRy
Ferry terminals are just 100m west of the city centre, a few metres from the main bus and train stations. Tirrenia operates regular ferry services for passengers and vehicles to and from Civitavecchia and Naples in the mainland, Palermo in Sicily. TiRRenia QA-4, Agenave, via Riva di Ponente, tel. (+39) 070 66 60 65/(+39) 070 66 30 04, www.tirrenia.it. Ticket office open 08:30 - 12:20, 16:15 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:20, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 17:00 - 19:00.

AboUT IYP
ESTONIA LATVIA NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND NETHERLANDS BELGIUM GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND ITALY HUNGARY BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO ROMANIA LITHUANIA BELARUS POLAND UKRAINE RUSSIA

SLOVENIACROATIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

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ARRiViNG by TRaiN
Trenitalia serves Cagliari-Elmas Airport (a c. 5 mins journey) and all major Sardinian destinations, such as Oristano (c. 1hr 15mins), Sassari (c. 3hrs), Olbia (c. 3hrs 30mins) and Porto Torres (c. 4hrs). TRain STaTiOn (STaZiOne FeRROViaRia) The station is just a few steps away from the city centre. It has an ATM, a bar and a newsagents shop. There are no left luggage facilities. Tickets must be clipped before boarding the train.QB-4, via Roma 22, tel. 199 89 20 21/(+39) 06 30 00, www.trenitalia.it. Ticket office open 06:15 - 13:10, 13:15 - 20:10.

ARRiViNG by CRUisE sHip

Cruise ships dock at the Rinascita and Sabaudo wharfs, conveniently located just a few minutes walk from via Roma.

ARRiViNG by sailiNG boaT

MaRina di PORTUs KaRalis Located in the section of the harbour facing via Roma, its a perfect spot for both small and huge vessels, and especially if you want to remain close to the city, its shops, restaurants and bars being all in very short walking distance.QB/C-4, molo Dogana, tel. (+39) 070 65 35 35, fax (+39) 070 640 48 98, portuskaralis@gmail.com, www. portuskaralis.blogspot.it. Office open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:30. Summer - Autumn 2014 5

SOUTH AFRICA

ARRiViNG by bUs
Cagliari is linked to all major Sardinian destinations through the regional bus company ARST. Tickets are sold at the bus

4 Cagliari In Your Pocket

Arriving & Basics

ARRiViNG by CaR
Cagliari is linked to major ferry ports Porto Torres (238km from Cagliari) and Olbia (274km) by dual carriageway roads SS131 and SS131dcn. Be sure to bring your driving licence, your cars registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card, a reective vest and a warning triangle. The speed limit on dual carriageway roads is 110 km/h, on non-urban roads is 90 km/h, on Cagliaris inner ring road (Asse Mediano) 70 km/h, in urban areas 50 km/h, unless otherwise indicated by road signs. It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat belts. Headlights have to be always turned on when driving on non-urban roads. Drinking and driving is heavily ned. The legal limit is 0.5 g/l. Approaching Cagliari, signposting is sometimes confusing, so we recommend to use a satellite navigation device or to have a map to hand. Trac in the city is generally not too bad, even during rush hour. When driving through the city you will see digital signs telling you how many spaces are free in the main car parks. There are access restrictions for cars within city centre. Castello is o-limits during the night, while access to Marina, Stampace and Villanova is also restricted during the day.

Arriving & Basics

EmERGENCy NUmbERs
Carabinieri Police (Polizia) Fire Brigade (Vigili del fuoco) Emergency Medical Assistance (Emergenza sanitaria) Coast Guard (Guardia costiera) Municipal Police (Polizia locale) 112 113 115 118 1530 (+39) 070 53 35 33

MobilE pHoNEs
Thanks to the ongoing regulatory eorts at the EU-level, mobile phone roaming rates are capped across all EU member states including Italy, which means that you can expect to pay only 0.24 per minute for outgoing calls, 0.07 per minute for incoming calls and 0.08 per SMS sent. Depending on your phone usage, its well worth considering buying a local SIM card that you simply use in your own phone. A prepaid account starts from around 20. To purchase one you need to show your ID card or passport.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
There are a number of public holidays in Italy. On these days city councils, post oces and banks are closed. Some shops, restaurants, museums and attractions may also close or have reduced opening hours. Jan 1 New Years Day Jan 6 Epiphany Apr 20 - 21, 2014 Easter Apr 25 Liberation Day May 1 Labour Day Jun 2 Republic Day Aug 15 Assumption Oct 30 City Patron St Saturnins Day Nov 1 All Souls Day Dec 8 Immaculate Conception Dec 25 Christmas Dec 26 St Stephens Day

MoNEy
A large part of the European Union has adopted the euro () as its local currency and Italy is no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 euro cents and 1, 2 euros; banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. You can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks, open Mon-Fri 08:30 - 13:15 and 14:30 - 16:00. Banks accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers. Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry some cash with you.

Canada, UK or Ireland you denitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other countries.

HEalTH & PHaRmaCiEs

Cagliari has three public hospitals (ospedale in Italian) with emergency units. Although there can be long queues for minor problems, more serious cases are usually addressed professionally, swiftly and free of charge. Pharmacies (farmacia) are easily recognizable from the luminous red or green cross on the outside. Opening hours generally follow similar time patterns to shops. A few pharmacies are open at night, on Sundays and public holidays. These change on a weekly basis and the list with addresses and phone numbers is always on display on boards outside every single pharmacy in town as well as at www.ordfarma.it. OsPedale BROTZU QF-1, piazzale Ricchi 1, tel. (+39) 070 53 95 94. Open 24/7. OsPedale CiVile San GiOVanni di DiO QB-3, via Ospedale 46, tel. (+39) 070 66 32 37. Open 24/7. OsPedale MaRinO QH-2, lungomare Poetto, tel. (+39) 070 609 43 05. Open 24/7.

SaFETy
It is generally safe to walk around, both day and night, especially in the city centre and surrounding neighbourhoods. Even the dark and narrow streets of the historical quarters dont represent a serious threat. Although crime does exist in town, it is not gang-related and does not normally consist of mugging, assaults or random beatings. Having said all this, it is also worth pointing out that some precautions should be taken. It is common sense not to venture out too far away from the centre at night, on foot and in dodgy parts of town. If you see a group of people you dont like the look of, maybe its a good idea to just cross the street. Cagliari is not the sort of place where you can just jump on a passing-by taxi. If the situation gets particularly edgy, call 112 (Carabinieri) or 113 (Police) for help. If possible, nd someone who speaks Italian to help you make the call since there is no guarantee of nding an English speaker on the other end.

DisablED TRaVEllERs
Unfortunately Italy is not yet very well-equipped in terms of facilities for the disabled, and Cagliari is no exception, especially given the unfavourable layout of the old town. The cobbled streets and steep steps that extend from Marina up to Castello certainly arent ideal for wheelchair users. There are disabled parking spaces for those who require them available at Metropark Cagliari and Regina Elena Parking Garage. Drivers with a disability sticker on their car can also use any of the citys designated parking spaces for free.

PosT
POsT OFFice (POsTe) You can buy stamps at tobacconists and drop o your postcards in the red boxes around town or go straight to this centrally located post oce.QB-3, piazza del Carmine 27, tel. (+39) 070 605 41 64, www.poste.it. Open 08:20 - 19:05, Sat 08:20 - 12:35. Closed Sun. U

REliGioN
Latin Rite Catholicism is by far the largest religious group in Italy. Cagliari is said to have been a diocese since as early as 70AD, although there are no written documents to prove it. There are a small mosque and an Evangelical Baptist church in the central Marina quarter. Other places of worship are to be found in greater Cagliari (Muslim, Christian Orthodox, Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter-day Saints among others).

ElECTRiCiTy
Electricity in Italy is 220V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins. If you are coming from the US,

SaRDiNia iN a NUTsHEll
Area: 23,821km2 Population: 1.675million Capital city: Cagliari (pop. 156,000) Other cities: Sassari (pop. 130,600), Quartu SantElena (71,900), Olbia (57,000), Alghero (41,000), Nuoro (36,200), Oristano (31,900) Highest point: Punta La Marmora, Gennargentu Massif (1,834m) Longest river: Tirso (150km) Largest lake: Omodeo Reservoir (29km2) 6 Cagliari In Your Pocket

LaNGUaGE
Every Sardinian speaks standard Italian. Sardinia has a language of its own, Sardinian, which is categorised in many dierent dialects and varieties. It is ocially recognised as a Neo-Latin language, just as Italian, French, Spanish or Catalan. Nevertheless, in Cagliari speakers of the local version of Sardinian, known as Casteddaiu, are growing thinner. Younger generations normally understand it, but arent uent speakers, as opposed to their parents or grandparents.

ToURisT INFoRmaTioN
InFOPOinT AeROPORTO Elmas QCagliariElmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 21 12 12 81. Open 08:30 - 20:30. U InFOPOinT MOlO SaniT QB-4, molo Sanit, tel. (+39) 338 649 84 98, infopoint.cagliari@gmail. com, www.infopointcagliari.it. Open 08:00 - 20:00. X-MEM QA-3, MEM Mediateca del Mediterraneo, via Mameli 164, tel. (+39) 342 342 20 10, mediateca@ camuweb.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30, 16:30 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. RUW

SmoKiNG & AlCoHol

Smoking is not allowed in public places, such as bars, pubs, clubs, restaurants, oces etc. There are however a few venues which have designated areas where smoking is permitted. Some hidden late-night pubs in the centre will turn a blind eye and bring an ashtray to your table in the early hours of the morning. According to Italian law, alcohol cannot be legally sold to people under 18. However, it is unlikely that a teenager will not be served a drink at a bar or have his purchase rejected in a supermarket.

LoCal TimE
From March 30th to October 26th, Italy is in the Central European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. The rest of the year the clock ticks according to the Central European Time Zone, or GMT+1. cagliari.inyourpocket.com

TElEpHoNE NUmbERs
All In Your Pocket guides in its European publishing empire list country codes before all telephone numbers. Summer - Autumn 2014 7

Arriving & Basics

WEaTHER
Month J F M A M J J A S O N D Temperature min/max, C 6/14 6/15 7/16 9/18 12/22 16/27 19/30 19/30 17/27 14/23 9/18 7/15 Rainfall, mm 46 57 44 37 24 9 3 8 31 56 56 55 The Italian country code is (+39), but of course, you only have to use this if youre dialing from abroad. If youre already in Italy and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+39) prefix and dial the number.

Culture & Events

EVENTS
Date Time Event Venue Classical, Opera & Ballet May 1 20:30 Norma, opera, music by V. Bellini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 2 20:30 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: W.A. Mozart, F.J. Haydn. LI 3 19:00 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: W.A. Mozart, F.J Haydn. LI 4 17:00 Norma, opera, music by V. Bellini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 9 20:30 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: S. Prokofev, R. Strauss. LI 10 19:00 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: S. Prokofev, R. Strauss. LI 24 19:00 Music for ute and piano. Programme includes: J.S. Bach, F. Schubert, G. Rossini. LI 27 19:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. 28 20:30 Quartet from Venice. Proframme: W.A Mozart, A. Casella, L. van Beethoven. LI 29 19:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. 30 20:30 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. 31 19:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. June 1 17:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. 3, 4 20:30 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico LI of Cagliari. 5, 6 11:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. 6 20:30 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. 7 19:00 P. Vernikov and soloists from the Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: LI W.A. Mozart, S. Prokofev, J. Brahms, J. Strauss. 8 17:00 The Magic Flute, opera in German, music by W.A. Mozart, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro LI Lirico of Cagliari. 21 19:00 Soloists from the Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: M. Ravel, M. Mu- LI sorgskij. 25, 26 19:00 Turandot, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 27 21:00 Turandot, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI July 2, 5, 9, 12, 21:00 Turandot, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 16, 19, 23, 26, 30 August 2, 6, 9, 13, 16 21:00 Turandot, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI September 19 20:30 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: L. van Beethoven, F. Schubert. LI 20 19:00 Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: L. van Beethoven, F. Schubert. LI 24 20:30 Music for violin and piano. Programme includes: C. Debussy, M. Ravel, G. Gershwin. LI 27 19:00 Soprano and piano music. Programme includes: H. Wol, J. Brahms, G. Gershwin. LI October 1,2 19:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 3 20:30 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 5 17:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 6 11:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 7, 8 20:30 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 9 11:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 10 20:30 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI 11 19:00 Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. LI Summer - Autumn 2014 9

TippiNG
Tipping is not usually expected, as most places include a service charge in the bill. However, tips are always welcome and can be left on the table or counter, or even handed over personally to the waiter/bartender.

Visas
Sardinia is part of Italian national territory and therefore Schengen Agreement rules apply. However, all EU nationals need at least an ID card when boarding airplanes and ferries, while non-EU nationals will require a passport for a stay of up to three months. Depending on the country of origin, some foreigners might need a visa. Please enquire at Italian embassies or consulates for current bilateral agreements with your country.

HISTORY
6000-4000BC Human activity begins in the area of Cagliari. Archaeological ndings suggest that the territory has been continuously inhabited ever since. 7th century BC Phoenician colonists found Karalis. 5th century BC Carthage takes control of Cagliari and Sardinia. 238BC Following the rst Punic War, Sardinia becomes a Roman province. Cagliari soon becomes an important naval hub for eets engaged in wars in Northern Africa. 456 The Vandals occupy Cagliari. In 474 they take control of the whole of Sardinia. 534 Sardinia is annexed by the Byzantine Empire which, over the following centuries, loses control of the island, leaving it in a state of anarchy. 10th-11th century Sardinia is divided in four autonomous realms, called giudicati: Arborea, Gallura, Torres and Cagliari. The Genoese and Pisan maritime republics establish a military presence and commercial activities along the Sardinian coast. 1258 The Pisans defeat the giudicato of Cagliari, destroying the capital Santa Igia and occupying the hill of present-day Castello, founding Castel di Castro. They erect the rst ring of fortied walls which also includes the area of Marina, facing the harbour. 1324 The arrival of the Aragonese marks the start of Spanish domination in Cagliari. Sardinia itself becomes a kingdom, governed by a viceroy, and its capital changes names to Cller. 1713 At the end of the War of the Spanish Succession, the Treaty of Utrecht assigns Sardinia to the Holy Ro8 Cagliari In Your Pocket man Empire. 1720 Following the Treaty of The Hague, Victor Amadeus II, Duke of Savoy, is granted the title of King of Sardinia. The port of Cagliari and its position along the main Mediterranean commercial routes help restore the citys political and strategic importance. 1793 The French eet lays siege to Cagliari, shelling the city and unsuccessfully attempting to land east of Poetto Beach. 1799-1814 During the Napoleonic Wars and the occupation of Piedmont, the Savoy family, who had been ousted from their court in Turin, resides in the Royal Palace in Cagliari. 1861 Sardinia becomes part of the unied Italian state. Cagliari gradually opens up to industrial and commercial investments, its old defense walls get pulled down, its urban landscape begins to be modernized with new architectural styles (Neo-Classical, Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau) and places such as via Roma, Saint Remy Rampart and the annexed Indoor Promenade. 1943 Cagliari suers heavy bombing by Allied air forces. 1948 Sardinia obtains the status of Autonomous Region and Cagliari is chosen as the seat of the local government and the regional assembly. In the following decades the city expands both inland and towards the sea, becoming what is now an urban continuum which includes Elmas, Assemini, Monserrato, Selargius, Quartucciu and Quartu SantElena, with a total population of around 370,000. cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

EVENTS
Date 12 November 5, 6 7 8 9 11, 12 13, 14 14 16 22 23 25, 26, 27, 28 29 30 Pop & Jazz May 31 July 1 11 18 31 August 12 30 Time 17:00 19:00 20:30 19:00 17:00 20:30 11:00 20:30 17:00 20:30 17:00 20:30 19:00 17:00 Event Tosca, opera, music by G. Puccini, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. La Traviata, opera, music by G. Verdi, Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. The Nutcracker, ballet, music by Tchaikovsky, Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Venue LI LI LI LI LI LI LI LI LI LI LI LI LI LI

Where to stay
CREam oF THE CRop
FORTe Village The exclusive Forte Village resort, situated 40km south-west of Cagliari, is renowned for its quality and excellence. It is one of the worlds leading resorts and winner of numerous awards, including the World Travel award 2013. The resort is now even more luxurious with a make-over of the executive rooms and a new stunning villa and suites. The 21 restaurants oer an incredible culinary variety, with cuisine from all over the world, impeccable service and Michelin stars, as well as top international chefs. Always avant-garde, it boasts the rst Hells Kitchen restaurant in the world. The swimming pools are immersed in the rich vegetation of the gardens and there is a private white sandy beach. The resort oers a wide range of sports and academies with international champions to improve your technique. It welcomes children and has a kids club with lots of activities and also a new Bio Park where children can learn about local farm animals while for total relaxation guests can spoil themselves at the wellness centre with thalassotherapy and spa.QSS 195, km 39.600, Santa Margherita di Pula, tel. (+39) 070 921 88 18, fax (+39) 070 92 12 64, holiday@ fortevillage.com, www.fortevillageresort.com. Open May - mid-October. 750 rooms. (from 275 per person HB). PTHAUFLBKCW hhhhh PUllman Timi Ama SaRdegna Pullman Hotels are a guarantee of quality and luxury and Timi Ama Sardegna is no exception. This ve star hotel offers guests rst class services, all modern comforts and an exclusive atmosphere on one of the most beautiful beaches in the south of Sardinia, just 57km from Cagliari. The hotel unfolds in subtle pastel colours before a breath-taking panorama of the glistening waters of the lagoon and the crystal clear sea beyond. It is in a stunning location, nestling in the lush Mediterranean vegetation inside the protected area of Capo Carbonara. Professional sta welcome guests into an oasis of wellness and leisure where they can just sit back and spoil themselves or enjoy numerous sporting activities, including water sports. The Thalasso and Spa guarantees total relaxation while the three restaurants oer an exceptional culinary variety in a sophisticated and elegant environment.Qviale dei Ginepri 3, Villasimius, tel. (+39) 070 79 791, fax (+39) 070 79 72 85, h3040@accor.com, www.pullmanhotels.com/gb/ hotel-3040-pullman-timi-ama-sardegna/index.shtml. Open 26 April - mid-October. 275 rooms (classic 312 - 742, superior 376 - 862, executive 426 - 990, deluxe 446 - 1146, suites 464 - 1530). Breakfast included. PTHARUFLBKCW hhhhh T HOTel This sleek hotel has been the host to politicians, famous footballers and stars. The superb and stylish open space entrance that overlooks the bistro bar and restaurant constantly exhibits works by local and international artists. From family rooms ready to cater every familys need to the hi-tech suite to full every business travellers dream; cagliari.inyourpocket.com from panoramic suites, deluxe or classic rooms, this hotel has it all. Menus conceived by chef of T Restaurant are based on seasonal produce, representing traditional Sardinian dishes and the modern Mediterranean cuisine. A superb spa centre will take you on a regenerating journey of wellness and tness, welcoming you to the vast hydrotherapy pool, Turkish bath and emotional showtreatments are ers. The exclusive a must and the fully trained sta will welcome you in a discreet, professional setting. The hotel has seven conference rooms, that can hold up to 800 guests.QG-1, via dei Giudicati 66, tel. (+39) 070 47 400, fax (+39) 070 47 40 16, reservation@thotel.it, www.thotel.com. 207 rooms (singles 109 - 219, doubles 129 - 279, suites 199 409, executive suite 300 - 459). Breakfast included. PHAUFLKW hhhh

UpmaRKET
CaesaRs This hotel invites you in this open air grand foyer with a beautiful skylight. The rooms oer every comfort a traveller needs. Da Cesare restaurant feels warm and welcoming and the dishes are simple and traditional, though prepared and served with great care, it can also cater privately for groups. With ten conference rooms that can hold up to 300 people, this hotel may be the answer to your business needs.QG-3, via Darwin 2-4, tel. (+39) 070 34 07 50, fax (+39) 070 34 07 55, info@caesarshotel.it, www. caesarshotel.it. 48 rooms (singles 79 - 150, doubles 129 - 200, triples 119 - 149, junior suites 129 - 159). Breakfast included. PHAULKW hhhh HOlidaY Inn CagliaRi The moment you walk into this stylish hotel lobby you are welcomed by vibrant contemporary paintings that brighten the entrance and instantly make you feel at home. Conveniently located between the city centre and the airport, the Holiday Inn Cagliari oers a wide range of top class amenities and each room is elegantly furnished with attention to detail and all the comforts of a four-star hotel to guarantee a great nights sleep. Guests are better o having a car to move around, since the bus service isnt the most frequent.QF-1, viale Ticca 23, tel. (+39) 070 53 79, fax (+39) 070 211 04 01, info@ hicagliari.com, www.holidayinn.com/cagliari. 92 rooms (singles 50 - 180, doubles 70 - 200). Breakfast included. PHALKDCW hhhh MiRamaRe With a spectacular view over the harbour, this enchanting boutique hotel will simply take your breath away. Miramare takes a charming listed building from the late 1800s and brings it into the 21st century. The inviting and warm living room will most denitely make you feel at home. Intertwining old and modern, culture and art, each room has been carefully designed with the client in mind. Those who cherish their thirst for luxury will be delighted to nd tastefully decorated rooms and bathrooms. Breakfast to die for complete with freshly-baked goodies, fruit and coee. Summer - Autumn 2014 11

Sardegna Chiama - Paolo Fresu and Friends, Charity Concert Maria Gad - Brazilian Jazz Singer and Composer Cristiano De Andr - Pop Volcan - Latin Jazz Testament - Metal Sean Kuti & The Egypt 80 - Afro Beat Caparezza Museica Tour - Pop

AGE PDM PDM PDM AGE PDM AGE

VENUEs
OPeRa HOUse (TeaTRO LiRicO di CagliaRi) After the destruction of Teatro Civico di Castello during the second world war a new project for a new Opera House was brought to light in 1964. A project that over the years transformed into what we call today Teatro Lirico di Cagliari. A beautifully designed and prestigious Opera House that can host up to 1,650 spectators. The stage and the orchestra pit were built rst, the rehearsal rooms, workrooms, store rooms and oce premises were built over the years while the foyer, a new bookshop, the bar and an elegant restaurant were the latest addition and renovation project to be completed. The Teatro Lirico was nally inaugurated in 1993. With its own orchestra and chorus which play a leading role in many prestigious productions, the Opera House is open all year long with rich concert, opera and ballet seasons. QB-1, via SantAlenixedda, tel. (+39) 070 408 22 30/(+39) 070 408 22 49, fax (+39) 070 408 22 23, biglietteria@ teatroliricodicagliari.it, www.teatroliricodicagliari.it. Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00 and one hour before show time. Closed Sun. UK TeaTRO CiVicO di CasTellO The Teatro Civico is ideally located at the bottom end of Castello and only a few minutes walk up the hill from the shopping street via Manno. It is a living monument in itself, since the structure was originally built in 1836 following architect Gaetano Cimas project, on the site of an 10 Cagliari In Your Pocket

KEY
AGE - Arena Grandi Eventi, G-3, via Vespucci LI - Opera House (Teatro Lirico di Cagliari) PDM - Parco della Musica, G-1, via dei Giudicati 16 existing theatre. As a public institution, throughout the decades it both thrived and oundered and was almost completely destroyed during the 1943 bombings, which only left the lobby and the perametre walls standing. It was brought back to its original splendour in 2006 and has since become a point of reference for drama and comedy lovers in town.QB-3, via De Candia, tel. (+39) 070 677 76 60, teatrocastello@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. U

Teatro Lirico di Cagliari

Where to stay
It also features a small internal garden and one particular suite has it all for itself. You can also experience the modern comfort of a massage room and Ayurveda treatments. QB-3/4, via Roma 59, tel./fax (+39) 070 66 40 21, info@ hotelmiramarecagliari.it, www.hotelmiramarecagliari. it. 18 rooms (singles 127 - 304, doubles 159 - 319). Breakfast included. PJA6IW hhhh PanORama Oering spectacular views of the gulf of Cagliari, ideally located in a smart residential area of town, its within walking distance from the city centre (approximately 30 minutes) and a ten-minute bus ride from Poetto Beach. The hotel is elegant and welcoming. Belvedere restaurant oers its guests a fantastic panoramic view of the city while enjoying a candle lit dinner service. It also boasts the elegant Panorama cafe, an outdoor swimming pool, conference and meeting roomsQG-3, viale Diaz 231, tel. (+39) 070 30 76 91, fax (+39) 070 30 54 13, info@hotelpanorama. it, www.hotelpanorama.it. 100 rooms (30 singles 70 110, 50 doubles 90 - 190, 20 suites 124 - 235). Breakfast included. PHAUFLKCW hhhh Regina MaRgheRiTa Located just steps away from Saint Remy Rampart, this stylish hotel has been beautifully and elegantly decorated with a modern touch while maintaining and intertwining design with the tradition of hospitality. The rooms have been elegantly decorated and are warm and welcoming. If you are looking for space, luxury and just peace of mind as well as top notch customer service you will most denitely nd it here.QC-3, viale Regina Margherita 44, tel. (+39) 070 67 03 42, fax (+39) 070 66 83 25, booking@hotelreginamargherita.com, www.hotelreginamargherita.com. 84 rooms (singles 95 148, doubles 120 - 195, suites 231). Breakfast included. PTJHALGW hhhh SaRdegna Through antiques and retro furniture this luxurious hotel blends old and modern design in a simple and elegant way. The relaxing ambient, timeless taste, tradition and sleek design set for a great start on your way to discover Cagliari. Clean, spacious rooms and bathrooms oer luxurious comfort. The American bar is great for socialising and relaxation while the spacious lounge equipped with large plasma screen TVs give you that homely feeling. Baby-sitting is available for those who would love to enjoy a relaxing dinner at La Scala restaurant or to simply take a moment for themselves.QE-1, via Lunigiana 50, tel. (+39) 070 28 62 45, fax (+39) 070 29 04 69, info@ sardegnahotelcagliari.it, www.sardegnahotelcagliari.it. 84 rooms (singles 91 - 103, doubles 120 - 137, suites 202). Breakfast included. PTA6LKW hhhh egance used to be. The rooms are spacious, clean and also equipped with a mini bar. The sta is friendly, welcoming and will be happy to give you directions and tips when planning your days in or out of town.QB-3, via Angioy 27, tel. (+39) 070 66 85 35, fax (+39) 070 66 60 87, info@hotel4mori.it, www. hotel4mori.it. 42 rooms (singles 65, doubles 85, suites 130). Breakfast included. PJAU hhh CalamOsca For those seeking a peaceful location out of the city centre, this hotel is ideal. It oers splendid views of the gulf of Cagliari and a panoramic terrace for romantic dinner. The hotel is awaiting further renovation but the ground oor has been completely refurbished. Guests can relax in the beautiful gardens of Le Terrazze next door and lazy on the private pebble beach. The more active can enjoy nature walks up to the D evils Saddle (Sella del Diavolo) headland or rent bikes to explore the many cycle paths. There is a regular bus service into town.QH-4, viale Calamosca 50, tel. (+39) 070 37 16 28, fax (+39) 070 37 03 46, hotelcalamosca@aruba.it, www.hotelcalamosca.it. 47 rooms (singles 50 - 120, doubles 80 - 120, triples 100 - 140, suites 100 - 160). Breakfast included. PA6L BKW hhh DUe COlOnne This hotel is located in the heart of Cagliaris historical city centre. Cosy and relaxing atmosphere, beautifully refurbished and rened rooms. The sta is very friendly and helpful. Though there isnt a restaurant on the premises, the hotel oers a family style breakfast room, where you can enjoy your afternoon tea after a long day of sightseeing and shopping.QB-3, via Sardegna 4, tel. (+39) 070 65 87 10, fax (+39) 070 65 47 83, hotelduecolonne@libero.it, www.hotel2colonne.it. 23 rooms (singles 70, doubles 114 - 135, suites 145). Breakfast included. PTJAUW hhh Idea HOTel CagliaRi SanTa MaRia Situated on one of the main routes into Cagliari and not far by car from the city centre and Poetto Beach. The rooms are fairly spacious and comfortable. Communal areas are nicely furnished and include a breakfast bar and conference rooms to accommodate your business meetings.QF-1, circonvallazione di Pirri, angolo via Santa Maria Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 451 93 00, fax (+39) 02 49 52 23 11, reservation.cagliari@ ideahotel.it, www.ideahotel.it. 129 rooms (singles 45 - 70, doubles 55 - 80). Breakfast included. PHALGW hhh ITalia In the heart of the Marina district, this hotels central location makes it ideal for a city break, for business or pleasure. It has recently undergone a make-over and now oers all modern comforts. The renovation project includes a new bar area which will oer a light-lunch service. The hotel oers rooms of various sizes and two fully equipped conference rooms. There is a library for guests and the hotel organizes wine tasting events and temporary art exhibitions by local artists.QB-3, via Sardegna 31, tel. (+39) 070 66 04 10, fax (+39) 070 65 02 40, info@ cagliari.inyourpocket.com hotelitaliacagliari.com, www.hotelitaliacagliari.com. 100 rooms (37 singles 58 - 72, 54 doubles 72 - 100, 7 triples 90 - 145, 2 quads 120 - 160). Breakfast included. PTJHA6GW hhh

Where to stay
locations. Exquisite!QB-3/4, via Roma 75, tel. (+39) 335 812 58 81/(+39) 070 289 04 77, locationcity@gmail.com, www.bedandbreakfastcagliaricity.it. 3 rooms (singles 60 - 90, doubles 75 - 120). PJNBXW EliZabeTh Elizabeth is a small and cosy establishment in a narrow cobbled street of Villanova. It has two double bedrooms, sharing one bathroom, which is kept remarkably clean. Breakfast is served in an elegant though informal room in the winter and in the back garden during the warmer months. Those seeking privacy can also choose to have breakfast in their room.QC-2, via San Giovanni 60, tel. (+39) 328 283 31 15, info@elizabethbb.com, www.elizabethbb.com. 2 rooms: (singles 40 - 45, doubles 70 - 75). JNGW FiOR di LOTO This charming B&B is located near the Marina district and is convenient for public transport, the train station and the port. The B&B is in a historic building which has been completely renovated to oer three stylish bedrooms with all modern comforts. The rich breakfast is served in an elegant breakfast room and the friendly sta will do all they can to make your stay unforgettable.QA-3, viale Trieste 56, tel. (+39) 070 756 71 66/(+39) 335 785 01 99, bbfiordiloto@ gmail.com, www.fiordilotocagliari.com. 3 rooms (singles 45 - 60, doubles 70 - 80). PTJA6W LiVingsTOne Situated in a handy position for those using public transport, just ve minutes walk from the train and bus stations, this B&B welcomes its guest with a large common area. All rooms are fully equipped, modern, spotless and have an exotic touch. The owner is well travelled and his experience in tourism shows when it comes to meeting high standards and speaking English, French, German or Spanish. He can also arrange pick-up service to and from the airport.QA-3, via XXIX Novembre 6, tel. (+39) 347 433 23 83, bblivingstone@virgilio.it. 3 rooms (singles 35 - 45, doubles 60 - 70). PJNGXW

BUDGET
A&R BUndes Jack A small family business hotel above the arcades of via Roma, it oers front row views of Cagliaris port from the moment you walk in. First opened in 1938, this hotel was part of the elite and crme de la crme of Cagliaris hotels. Famous ballerinas and high society people have stepped their foot and slept in this hotels domains. Each room is decorated with impeccably maintained antique furniture. There is also a common space with a small antique bar tucked in a corner from where Mr Palmas will entertain and delight his guests with a glass of vernaccia of his own production.QB-3/4, via Roma 75, tel./fax (+39) 070 66 79 70, hotel.aerbundesjack@libero.it. 14 rooms (singles 52 - 72, doubles 92 - 102). PJNW hh La TeRRaZZa This family owned hotel is a hidden gem in the old town. The rooms are neat and clean oering views of Castello, the city and harbour of Cagliari. Cosy living room and friendly service its the perfect place to came back home to after a long day of sightseeing and shopping. QB-3, via Santa Margherita 21, tel. (+39) 070 66 86 52, fax (+39) 070 66 08 63, info@laterrazzahotel.com, www.laterrazzahotel.com. 14 rooms (singles 50 - 60, doubles 70 - 80, triples 90 - 100). Breakfast included. PJA6W hh

B&Bs
Almea This B&B is conveniently located in a smart, residential part of town, close to main roads, public transport, the stadium and the basketball/volleyball arena. The rooms are spacious and clean and there is a comfy communal living room. The homemade breakfast is served by the very hospitable host. Overall, the feeling of the place is friendly and denitely homely.QG-3, via Rockefeller 27, tel. (+39) 328 009 51 51, roby.almea@tiscali.it. 3 rooms (singles 35 40, doubles 70 - 75). PLNGXW AnTica ResidenZa MaRina di CasTellO On the top oor of a ne historic building facing the port and the sunshine, this elegant though cosy at guarantees some of the best rooms in town. Theyre spacious, newly done, clean and all have cutting edge en-suite bathrooms. The common area, where guests can make their own coffees, teas and cold snacks, looks up towards the Elephant Tower and the southern bastions of Castello. There is also a fabulous panoramic terrace for guests, which looks onto the harbour and the Gulf of Angels, for breakfast and romantic aperitifs al fresco. Restaurants, cafs and bars literally just yards away, same as bus stops to Poetto Beach and other

HosTEls
CagliaRi HOsTel MaRina In what used to be a school in the heart of the city, youll nd the hostel, which was inaugurated in 2009. It has a large innercourtyard and a spacious common room, which is also the area dedicated to the well stocked hostel bar. The bar is lively, popular and it organises plenty of weekend events, live music, dj sets, thus entertaining international backpackers and locals alike. The rooms and the dorms all have en-suite bathrooms and many of them have mezzanine oors and lovely wooden ceilings, as well as fridges and TVs.QB-3, scalette San Sepolcro 2, tel. (+39) 070 67 08 18, cagliari@aighostels.it, www. hostelmarinacagliari.com. 35 rooms. Rates per person: single room 40, double room 30, triple/quad room 25, dormitory 22. Children 6-12 pay 50%, U6 free. Extra charge for Hostelling International membership 2. Breakfast included. PJHAEGXW Summer - Autumn 2014 13

MiD-RaNGE
4 MORi This hotel is located in the lower part of the Stampace quarter, right behind the Town Hall and the train station. It features a spacious entrance which is a reminder of what lux and el12 Cagliari In Your Pocket

Where to eat

Where to eat

PRiCE GUiDE
expect to have more than enough to eat and not spend more than 12 - 15 a two course-meal and some table wine could cost you between 20 - 25 a full three-course meal wont cost you less than 35 youre in a top-end restaurant and be prepared to spend over 50

FasT FooD
Le PaTaTe & CO. This charming innovative take away restaurant is located in the heart of the Marina district in a historic building. There are some tables and chairs outside for those who want to eat their purchases in comfort but there is no table service. Le Patate & Co. oers a vast menu specialising in fried sh and chips, but freshly prepared and fried in olive oil. You will be spoilt for choice! There are also international beers and Sardinian wines to accompany your feast. QB-3, scalette San Sepolcro 1, tel. (+39) 347 137 78 68, pintusstefano@hotmail.it. Open 11:00 - 15:30, 18:00 24:00. . JGB ZaZa dOneR kebab This colourful kebab house boasts the best Kurdish and Turkish food in town. Right in the city centre it is ideal for a bite on the hoof, but there is also seating inside where you can enjoy your genuine Turkish kebab and so much more. Tasty sandwiches, vegetable falafel, hot-dogs, chips and roast potatoes, grab something dierent each time you pass! But dont forget the delicious home made desserts, such favourites as baklava, kadayif and revani.QB-3, via Santa Margherita 2, tel. (+39) 328 978 21 06. Open 11:00 - 04:00. . PTJGS

beautiful stone oors and walls. It oers traditional Italian cuisine but revisited by the chefs creative touch to present a rich menu of original combinations, but also Sardinian specialities. The house pice de rsistance is the panseared tuna steak. To complete your meal dont forget the delicious home made desserts!QB-3, via Cavour 48, tel. (+39) 070 756 85 36, info@saosa.it. Open 12:30 - 15:00, 19:30 - 22:30. Closed Tue. . PTJAUGB La GROTTa This small, friendly restaurant lies just o via Roma. It is ideal for lunch, oering a welcome break from sightseeing during the day, or for a leisurely dinner in the lively Marina district in the evening. La Grotta oers traditional Italian cuisine and many local specialities, such as fregola con le

arselle (Sardinian pasta with clams), and is well-known for its sh platters. The home made Sardinian desserts are denitely worth leaving a space for! At weekends in the summer months there is also some seating outside.Qvia Porcile 7, tel. (+39) 070 66 33 50/(+39) 368 313 50 07. Open 12:30 - 15:30, 19:30 - 23:00. . PTJAG LORd NelsOn This charming restaurant, in rigorous sea-faring style is just out of the city centre, but well worth a visit. It has a small dining room, where wood prevails, as well as portraits of the Admiral himself, of course. The restaurant oers traditional Italian cuisine and specialises in sh dishes. The chef uses only the nest, freshest ingredients in his delicious creations and the extensive menu will satisfy even the

AGRiTURismo
SU CUile Just a 10 minute drive from Cagliari and you can immerge yourself in rural life and sample delicious home-cooking. This educational farm allows visitors to experience traditional country life rst hand and has a policy of zero-km, meaning only home grown ingredients and meat from the farm is used. Eliana will propose a delicious seasonal menu for lunch or dinner and vegetarians are welcome. The farm specialities are panada (meat or vegetable pie), roast suckling pig and for dessert seadas (fried cheese pastries with honey) and typical Sardinian biscuits. Book in advance for a guided tour of the farm before your meal and why not request a workshop to make cheese, pasta, bread and even milk cows to complete your visit!QGrogastu, Assemini, tel. (+39) 333 817 93 90/(+39) 339 157 31 26, info@sucuilepeddio.it, www.sucuilepeddio.it. Book in advance. . PTA6UGB

SaRDiNiaN CUisiNE
Sardinian cuisine lives up to the expectations that visitors may have when approaching an Italian restaurant. Despite its openness and general hospitality, the island remains tightly rooted to its social and cultural traditions and food is no exception. Sardinians are jealously bound to the old recipes, passed on generation after generation. Even if Sardinian cities are by all means modern and European, inland it remains essentially rural and represents a culinary goldmine. Restaurants have access to an ocial and unocial market of fresh goods, coming from the countryside, the hills and mountains. Often city chefs rely on a thick network of small farmers, butchers, shermen and hunters from whom they get the freshest vegetables, traditionally made cheeses, hams and sausages, but also game, such as wild boar, hare, dear and dierent types of birds. Oristano is also blessed by the constant inow of fresh seafood, both in markets and in restaurants. This tradition has been enhanced by top restaurants and chefs, which often blend the classic local dishes with more modern and sophisticated atmospheres, cooking techniques and tastes. The nal result is a culinary experience which is more often than not enticing, surprising and fullling. Restaurants generally serve ample portions throughout all the courses. The typical meal is made of hors doeuvres, consisting of dierent small plates, whose given intention is to set your body and soul for more food, but are often so generous that they represent a whole meal. The rst course is mostly based on pasta or rice, in a virtually countless variety of shapes, sizes and condiments. Second courses are usually meat or sh, and maybe a vegetable-based side dish. Therefore the concept itself of a main course doesnt really exist in Sardinia, so forget those large plates with a mixture of rice, meat and vegetables, which are typical of Northern European cuisine. Having said this, when ordering food in a restaurant do not in any way feel obliged to go for the whole shebang. You can easily browse through the menu and carefully select your options, especially when you have company to share your meal with. Sardinians eat quite late, even for continental Italian standards. In this respect, Spanish inuence is still to be felt. Lunch wont be much before 13:00 and can go on until 16:00, depending where you are and how much youre prepared to eat. Dinner is not before 20:00, but is often much later... Most restaurants, having been open for lunch, give their kitchen sta a few hours break in the afternoon, meaning that chefs dont get back to their stoves and start preparing for the evening meals before 18:30. Give them enough time to do what theyre best at, or else you might be disappointed. Summer - Autumn 2014 15

ITaliaN
HOsTaRia Sa Osa This elegant restaurant is in the heart of the Marina district. Inside it is modern, but stylish and welcoming and features

14 Cagliari In Your Pocket

cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

Where to eat

most demanding palates. Impeccable service and polite sta complete your gourmet experience.Qvia Tevere 2, tel. (+39) 070 29 10 50/(+39) 349 870 22 15. Open 13:00 - 15:00, 20:00 - 23:00, Mon 20:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . PTA Man.Gia. SenZa GlUTine The rst gluten free restaurant-pizzeria in Italy, Man.Gia. offers a delicious, healthy menu which maintains avour while putting your wellbeing rst. Just ve minutes walk from the town centre this welcoming restaurant is well worth the stroll. Diners will appreciate the family atmosphere while enjoying excellent service and, for many, a new experience in Italian cuisine. Man.Gia. boasts only the freshest and nest ingredients which are lovingly transformed into appetising dishes which make up the rigorously gluten free menu. It is the perfect blend of tradition and innovation in the kitchen, specialising in home-made gluten free pasta dishes, but also tasty salads, vegetables and sh dishes, and of course gluten free beer. Book in advance at weekends.QA-3, via Mameli 196, tel. (+39) 070 204 19 40/ (+39) 334 770 64 97, info@mangiasenzaglutine.it, www. mangiasenzaglutine.it. Open 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . PTAUGBS MaRTinellis This cosy restaurant is conveniently located in the Marina district. It specializes in sh dishes and boasts only the best, freshest ingredients. Martinellis prides itself on its rich menu which blends traditional Italian cuisine with original combinations. Diners are spoilt for choice before

such mouth-watering delights, but the house pice de rsistance is the starters tasting menu which will satisfy even the most demanding palate. The menu changes depending on the season and fresh sh available, there is a good selection of Sardinian wines and delicious homemade desserts to complete your meal. Book in advance at weekends.QB-3, via Principe Amedeo 18, tel./fax (+39) 070 65 42 20, ristorantemartinellis@gmail.com, www. martinellis.it. Open 12:30 - 14:00, 20:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. . PJA6G

SaRDiNiaN
San DOmenicO This small, cosy restaurant specialises in traditional Italian cuisine, both meant and sh, but oers many Sardinian gourmet delights. It is a family run business with a welcoming atmosphere and prides itself on using only the freshest ingredients. Diners are spoilt for choice among the delicious starters, pasta dishes and second courses, however the tasty mixed starters are a house speciality, as is the fritto misto (lightly fried sh dish). Dont forget to leave room for the home made desserts!QC-3, via Eleonora dArborea 53, tel. (+39) 070 65 54 06. Open 13:00 - 14:30, 20:30 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 14:30. Closed Mon. . PJAG

ICE-CREam paRloURs
BObOcOnO This small ice cream parlour is a little o the beaten track but those in the know gladly take the stroll for their favourite avour. Bobocono prides itself on its perfect blend of tradition and creativity. The home-made ice cream is lovingly prepared with only the nest ingredients to create some of the tastiest ice cream in town. The secret behind the exquisite taste lies in the natural ingredients and fresh fruit, from rich chocolate avours to delicate, fruity tangs, there is something for everyone!Qvia Oristano 23, tel. (+39) 070 311 01 25, bobocono@libero.it, www. bobocono.it. Open 13:00 - 03:00. Nov closed Mon. Closed Dec - Jan. PTJG

PiZZERias
Vai che ce n di Pi This pizzeria is a true Cagliari down-to-earth classic. Small and really busy, this place is located in what used to be a fairly rough and downmarket part of town, but which is now drastically improving, with new building developments, shops and restaurants all over. Theres a selection of around sixty dierent pizzas to choose from, but if youve already had too much of it, their huge beef or horse steaks, served with roast or fried potatoes, are famous in town... so be prepared for a dicult choice. Sta is friendly and helpful. The pizzaiolo (the man who actually makes your pizza) works behind a glass screen, so can see the whole pizza-making process live in front of you.QF-1, viale SantAvendrace 319, tel. (+39) 329 115 65 53. Open 19:30 - 00:30. Closed Mon. . PAGB

CaFs & bisTRos

CaF BaRcellOna Right in the heart of the Marina district this small snack bar offers outdoor seating where you can just sit back and watch the world go by while sipping your cold beer or enjoying a tasty snack. Open from breakfast to dinner and beyond Caf Barcellona is a great place to stop for a bite at any time of the day. The menu is good value for money and offers snacks and salads, but also pizza, pasta dishes and a typical Sardinian cold cut platter.QB-3, via Barcellona 84, tel. (+39) 070 732 10 35, sanmascia@tiscali.it. Open 07:30 - 03:00. PT JAGBX ChOcO & Tea Many original features of the 19th century coach house have been maintained in what is now a rened tea room and chocolate shop. Choco & Tea boasts many mouthwatering delicacies including handmade ice-cream, local cakes, wines, sweets and chocolates, not to mention the best cappuccinos in town! Youll be spoilt for choice with a Sardinian, Italian and international menu at lunchtime and unable to resist the many options available for an exquisite afternoon tea. Choco & Tea is right in the heart of the old town - perfect for that shopping break with a dierence. QB-3, via Cima 7, tel./fax (+39) 070 68 05 22, info@ chocoandtea.it. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. PTJAUGBXW

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16 Cagliari In Your Pocket

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Summer - Autumn 2014

17

Nightlife
BaRs
CaFF dellElFO This small and cosy establishment is the typical example of what can certainly be considered a gay friendly caf/ bar in Cagliari. The atmosphere is relaxed and the brick walls and ceilings give it an aura of elegance and old age. Customers are a good mixture of ages and types. Cocktails are especially good: why not taste their exceptional, ashy-looking and sharp-tasting Costa Azzurra long drink or the house special Caipielfo with vodka and strawberries?! Also light snacks, cheese and ham or salads are available, especially during lunch time.QB-3, scalette Santa Chiara 6, tel. (+39) 070 68 23 99, adamoelfo@ libero.it. Open 13:00 - 15:00, 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PJAGBW CaFF LibaRiUm Ca Libarium is composed of a bar area and two cosy internal rooms, each decorated in a style that maintains the old characteristics of the ancient building that hosts it, while the outside terrace is another story all together. During the hot summer nights you get to enjoy a spectacular panorama of the city, while sipping on your cocktail and chatting with your friends. With white sofas, chairs and pillows laid on the old stairs of one of the main squares of Castello, this enchanting terrace will denitely take your breath away. Famous for the Thursday nights happy-hour and abundant aperitifs, stop by for a drink but if youre in no need for refreshments, do at least take a peek at the magnicent views from up top of the old town below and whole harbour.QB-3, via Santa Croce 33-35, tel. (+39) 346 522 02 12, libarium@tiscali.it, www.caffelibarium.com. Open 07:30 - 02:00. Closed Mon. PJAGB La PaillOTe Just 5 minutes car ride away from the centre of town this exclusive bar-bathing establishment is situated in one of Cagliaris most stunning locations, Cala Fighera. The solarium is equipped with sun-beds and sun umbrellas and you can enjoy a club sandwich or a tasty snack for lunch while relaxing in comfort.QH-4, viale Calamosca, Calafighera, tel. (+39) 070 37 15 84, info@lapaillote. it, www.lapaillote.it. Open 09:00 - 20:30. Restaurant closed Mon. 6GBX MOjiTO This lively bar has seating inside in a welcoming lounge and a pretty terrace outside. However, on busy nights the crowds mingle outside on the steps creating a vibrant atmosphere. Early in the evening you can enjoy an relaxing aperitif with nger food while later on try the house speciality Mojito, of course!QB-3, scalette Santa Chiara 25, tel. (+39) 070 68 44 39, mojitococktails@tiscali.it. Open 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PJAGBX

What to see
ClUbs
RiTUal Originally a stable, then a powder factory for ammunition during the Pisan period and now a very lively nightlife disco that remains open till the wee hours of the morning. Walking into Ritual is like taking a journey back in time. This magnicent two level cave-like night bar has become the host to some of the best DJs around and to some incredible parties. Open all year long, seven days a week from early mornings till early mornings! On Thursday, you can stop by and enjoy a glass of wine or a cocktail, nibble on some nger food and delight yourself with some live music in a candlelight atmosphere. On Fridays and Saturdays the party starts late at night, turning the venue into the centre of Cagliaris underground nightlife, both literally and guratively, for those who want to enjoy a good DJ set and good quality house music.QB-3, via Universit 33, tel. (+39) 070 65 20 71. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. JEGB

CasTEllo
Castello in Sardinian is called Castedde susu, which means upper castle, because this is what it was and, from an architectural point of view, still is. Castello is perched on the top of a white rock which looks directly onto the gulf of Cagliari. The site was used in the remote past, though probably not urbanised: the Punic and Roman cisterns built to collect water and the Roman amphitheatre carved out of one of its slopes are just two examples. It wasnt until the 13th century, when the Pisans began creating their commercial outposts in Sardinia, that the strategic importance of Castello became apparent. They decided to take control of the hill and soon blocked access to it, fortifying the rock with heavy walls and three large towers, two of which are still in pristine condition and are among the main attactions Cagliari has to offer. They also built the Cathedral. When the Aragonese and then the Spanish took over power in Sardinia (14th-18th century), they kept Cagliari as their capital. They improved and enlarged the walls of the castle, modernising the defensive system. Sardinians were effectively cut out from power and important positions, and were only allowed to have humble jobs during daytime. When the day drew to an end, a horn was the signal for the local population to leave the castle or else be even thrown down from the walls. The Savoy family took power at the beginning of the 18th century and also made many improvements, but the most radical changes occurred in the 19th century, when Cagliari, and therefore Castello, stopped being a military fortress. Instead of mighty defensive bastions, the new promenades and terraces (e.g. Saint Remy Rampart and Buon Cammino) became the places where the cagliaritani could mingle and socialise. Although the richer families have left, and the population has decreased over the years, Castello is living a new phase, buildings are being restored, there are new bars and restaurants; art galleries and shops are being opened and it is overall coming back to life, after generations of romantic but decadent neglect. Basilica OF The HOlY CROss (Basilica di SanTa CROce) The basilica of the Holy Cross was built in the 16th century along a section of the city walls which was given the same name, Holy Cross Rampart (Bastione di Santa Croce). Prior to its construction, on the same ground was the synagogue. After the expulsion of the Jews from all territories under the Spanish Crown in 1492, the temple was demolished and replaced by the basilica. Santa Croce was assigned to the Jesuits, until 1773, when the Society of Jesus was suppressed. The basilica was then assigned to the knightly Order of Saints Maurice and Lazarus. On Sunday mornings its the weekly appointment for traditional Catholics, who attend Latin mass.QB-2, via Corte dAppello 44, tel. (+39) 070 235 52 84, www. santacrocecagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:30 - 18:00. Admission free.

CaThedRal MUseUm (MUseO del DUOmO) The museum hosts the Treasure of the Cathedral, which had long remained under lock and key. Among the most interesting works on display, a 15th century triptych, known as the Triptych of Clement VII, allegedly by Flemish painter Rogier Van der Weyden. Rich 16th, 17th and 18th liturgical vestments can be seen, as well the much older ones which belonged to Saint Augustine. On the rst of the three oors of the museum there is a small but precious collection of silver chalices, crosses and shrines, some of which date back as far as the 14th century. At the moment, information in the museum is only in Italian and so are the guided tours.QB-3, via del Fossario 5, tel. (+39) 070 65 24 98/(+39) 333 765 98 75. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00. Admission 4, conc. 2.50. CaThedRal OF SainT MaRY OF The AssUmPTiOn (CaTTedRale di SanTa MaRia AssUnTa) The church of St Mary became the citys cathedral in the 13th century. Few traces of the medieval structure remain: the steeple, the two Romanesque side doors and the so-called Pisan Chapel, dedicated to the Sacred Heart. As it is today, the cathedral has a latin-cross plan, with a transept and three naves. During the 17th century, the building underwent its rst major reconstruction work. The inside and the faade were changed, following the Baroque fashion of the time. It was not until the 1930s that the faade was yet again restyled, according to a Neo-Romanesque pattern. The Sanctuary of the Martyrs hosted in the crypt is home to 179 niches containing relics of Cagliaris martyrs.QB-2, piazza Palazzo 4, tel. (+39) 070 66 38 37, www.duomodicagliari.it. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 16:30 - 20:30. Admission free. ElePhanT TOweR (TORRe dellEleFanTe) This mighty tower was built by architect Giovanni Capula in 1307 on the Castello hill, facing the sea. Along with the St Pancras and Eagle towers, it was intended to guard one of the main entrances to Castello and to bolster the city walls, which were being built in the same period. Elephant Tower occupied the most south-western point of the castle. Its dominant position is nowadays less apparent due to a number of civilian and military buildings which surround it, built in the 17th and 18th centuries. Similarly to the St Pancras Tower, it is made from local limestone and its wooden oors divide it in four levels. During the Aragonese domination, a wall on the northern side was built, allowing the tower to be used for storage and as a prison. On the southern wall of the tower a small statue of an elephant is still visible, hence the name of the site, as well as the original Pisan families coats of arms.QB-3, piazza San Giuseppe, tel. (+39) 320 052 20 83, camumarketing@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3, conc. 2. U7 not allowed for safety reasons. IndOOR PROmenade (PasseggiaTa COPeRTa) The Indoor Promenade is contemporary to the Saint Remy Rampart and it is in fact built within its structure. Featuring shiny marble oors, high ceilings, supported by grand arches and pillars, it has been used as a locaSummer - Autumn 2014 19

PUbs
Old SQUaRe IRish PUb With walls dating back from the 1300s, Old Square is your typical Irish pub serving international and national rst-class beers as well as good pub food, especially meat. Live entertainment at the weekends in a great atmosphere is part of Fridays and Saturdays special. If you are looking for some down time, a good glass of wine and some quiet conversation, at the back of the pub you can nd the cellar of the Templars, where you can escape the frenetic grand entrance of the pub, where live music is played. With a vast menu to choose from to satisfy even the most demanding palates, this pub has something for everyone.QB-3, corso Vittorio Emanuele II 44, tel. (+39) 070 65 80 99, old.square@hotmail.it, www.oldsquare.it. Open 11:30 - 02:30. PTJA6EGBW

Gay CaGliaRi
Cagliari is an overall tolerant city, its population is curious and welcomes changes. It can therefore be comfortably dened as gay tolerant. However, dont imagine a Mediterranean version of London or San Francisco. It certainly isnt. And although cagliaritani have grown accustomed to the presence of homosexuals as a reality of everyday professional and social life, it probably isnt ready yet for the most open displays of aection or eccentricity. Socially speaking, there is no proper gay area or gay club in Cagliari, as you might nd in many other cities. There are a number of gay-friendly bars, restaurants, hotels and B&Bs, especially around piazza Yenne. The gay scene is never less alive and kicking. There is a very active cultural organisation called ARC (Associazione Culturale Gay Lesbica Bisessuale Transgender Cagliari, www.associazionearc.eu), which is on the forefront of gay rights and anti-discrimination campaigns. cagliari.inyourpocket.com

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18 Cagliari In Your Pocket

What to see
tion for exhibitions since as early as the 1930s and it was then heavily damaged by WWII air-raids. It was brought back to its original aspect, further refurbished in the 1980s and again recently. It is enshrined within the old city fortied walls, parts of which are currently visible inside. QB/C-3, piazza Costituzione, tel. (+39) 347 000 39 88, g.sperone@gmail.com. Closed for repairs. Old TOwn Hall (AnTicO PalaZZO di CiTT) The Old Town Hall probably dates back to as early as the 14th century. It was destined to host the assemblies of the city representatives and then the Town Hall, before the new one was built. Its present-day aspect is an example of 18th century Piedmontese-Baroque. Above the entrance door, an inscription in memory of the visit by Emperor Charles V and above that, Cagliaris coat of arms. It then became the citys conservatoire and its now a cultural space used by the city council to host exhibitions.QB-3, piazza Palazzo 6, tel. (+39) 070 677 64 82. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4, conc. 2.50. Joint saver ticket for the Old Town Hall, the City Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Siamese Art 8, conc. 4. U ROYal Palace (PalaZZO RegiO) The Royal Palace has existed since the 14th century as the residence of Aragonese, Spanish and then Savoy Viceroys. The present-day setting of the building is the result of major restoration works by Savoy military engineers in the 18th century. Between 1779 and 1815, it became the ofcial residence of the Savoy court, during their exile from Turin due to the French occupation of Piedmont. When Cagliari ceased to be the ocial capital of the Kingdom, the Palace lost its institutional role and came under the Provincial authority, which it still is. The Palace can be visited and although there arent any guided tours as such, with the aid of audio-visual equipment (for the moment only in Italian), it is possible to wonder through the 18th century halls, adorned with ne painting and frescoes. QB-2, piazza Palazzo 1, tel. (+39) 070 409 20 00. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:30. Admission free. U SainT RemY RamPaRT (BasTiOne SainT RemY) Probably the most noticeable monument in Cagliari. It was built in white limestone at the end of the 19th century, after Cagliari ceased to be a military fortress and gradually its defensive walls were pulled down. It is the result of three fortied bastions which were then joined together. From piazza Costituzione, the rst thing you see is a mighty double staircase surmounted by a large arch. Once you reach the top, you are met by a vast terrace with benches and palm trees. The view is breath-taking. You dont have to walk up all the steps and the lazy visitor can take the lift (open 24/7, free of charge), which is about 100m further up along viale Regina Elena. Dont miss the romantic sunset, before you walk down to the Marina quarter for dinner.QB/C-3, piazza Costituzione. Open 24/7. Admission free. ST PancRas TOweR (TORRe di San PancRaZiO) The St Pancras Tower was built in 1305 on the highest peak of what is now known as Castello. The construction was commissioned to Sardinian architect Giovanni Capula and it was intended to play a pivotal role in the citys new defensive system, protecting the northern entrance of Castello. The tower is made of white limestone and is open on the side facing piazza Indipendenza. During the Aragonese and then Spanish domination, the fourth wall of the tower was completed, allowing it to be used as a fortied warehouse and lodgings for civil servants. Until the end of the 19th century, the tower was used as a jail. At the beginning of the 20th century, the tower underwent major restoration work and was brought back to its original 3-wall shape.QB-2, piazza Indipendenza, tel. (+39) 320 052 20 83, camumarketing@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3, conc. 2. U7 not allowed for safety reasons. The GheTTO (CenTRO COmUnale dARTe e CUlTURa Il GheTTO) This culture and arts centre takes its name from the area in which its located: the old Jewish quarter within the walls of Castello. The area only actually acquired the nickname the Ghetto in the last century, when the castles fortications ceased their military function and, in their dereliction, came to serve as makeshift living space for some of the citys poorest citizens. Much of the area was restored in the 1990s and the arts centre was opened in 2000. It hosts various exhibitions throughout the year, so there is always something new and interesting to see.QB-2, via Santa Croce 18, tel. (+39) 070 640 21 15, www.camuweb.it. Open 09:00 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special exhibitions may charge an admission fee. U UniVeRsiTY and Old COllege (PalaZZO dellUniVeRsiT ed ex SeminaRiO) The University of Cagliari was ocially founded at the beginning of the 17th century, but it had to wait until 1770 to have its own monumental building. Together with the annexed seminar, it was built on a part of the old walls, just yards away from the Elephant Tower and present-day Saint Remy Rampart. The two buildings are adjacent, structured on three levels and each has its own entrance: one leads to the administrative oces of the rectorate and the other to the University Library. Both have inner courtyards and its usually possible to reach the back and have a small walk on part of the old city walls, with inspiring views of the harbour and the gulf of

What to see

GREEN CAGLIARI
There will be many of you who will need a break from the heat and the panting up and down Cagliaris steep hills. There are some beautiful, breezy parks with lots of trees and shade, vital in the summer months! Make the most of them! childrens play area is a little smaller than the others, and its one toilet is a little hard to nd, but this really is the place to come if you want the best views in all Cagliari as from the top of the hill you can see for miles in all directions. In the grounds there is both a bar and a restaurant and there is even a lift for those who dont fancy the, admittedly steep, climb to the top. Monte Claro Park (Parco Monte Claro, A/B-1, via Cadello, open 07:00 - 21:00, Jul - Aug 07:00 - 24:00) is often chosen by joggers and undergraduates, thanks to its gentle slopes and proximity to university and sport facilities. Its pond, although smaller than that at Urpinu hill, is the habitat of some very amiable ducks and there is a caf very close to the waters edge. There are clearly sign-posted toilets, as well as several very useful drinking water fountains dotted around the park. The Public Gardens (Giardini pubblici, B-1/2, viale Regina Elena, open 07:00 - 20:00, Jul - Aug 06:00 - 23:00) are a green oasis just under the towering walls of Buoncammino and between the ancient districts of Castello and Villanova, ideal for joggers, children or just a relaxing stroll. The Garden below the Walls (Giardino sotto le mura, B-2, viale Regina Elena, open 07:00- 24:00) opened in March 2014 and is a pleasant green area in the heart of the city. Perfect for a refreshing break from shopping or sightseeing, this charming garden runs along the ancient city walls below the towering Saint Remy Rampart. The garden is enriched with seven sculptures by the local artist Pinuccio Sciola and is wheelchair friendly. cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Cagliari. The ground oor of the Old College also hosts the Luigi Piloni Collection (Collezione Sarda Luigi Piloni, book visit in advance), consisting of seven rooms where ancient maps and prints, Sardinian costumes and artefacts, as well as local religious art and jewellery, are on display.QB-3, via Universit 40, tel. (+39) 070 675 24 28/(+39) 070 675 24 24, www.unica.it. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 19:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. U

CiTaDEl oF MUsEUms (CiTTaDElla DEi MUsEi)

The Citadel of Museums is situated just north of Castello, and since the major works carried out by military architects Rocco Cappellino and the Palearo brothers in the 16th century, it is included within perimeter of the fortification system of the city, subsequently extended and improved by the Savoys during the 18th century. It was principally used as an arsenal and foundry, as well as a jail and subsequently barracks. Heavily damaged in WWII, it was later abandoned and only in the 1960s it was destined to host a number of museums and areas for temporary exhibitions. Visitors can enjoy a cafe with a pleasant terrace and a somewhat limited selection of snacks. The area also has amazing views of the gulf of Cagliari. MUseUm OF Siamese ART (MUseO dARTe Siamese STeFanO CaRdU) The exhibits on display are part of Stefano Cardus collection of Siamese and Oriental Summer - Autumn 2014 21

The Garden below the Walls

comunecagliarinews.it

On the western side of Urpinu Hill (Monte Urpinu, G-2, via Pietro Leo, open 07:00 - 21:00, Jul - Aug 07:00 - 23:00) theres a pleasant pond with ducks and geese, while peacocks walk freely all over the gardens. Theyre fairly shy animals, so you might need to be on the look-out if you hope to see some. If you get all the way up to the top, youll be gratied by a splendid view of the gulf of Cagliari and of the city. It has easily the best childrens play area in the city, along with plenty of shady benches surrounding it for tired parents to relax on. At the top of St Michael Hill (Colle San Michele, F-1, via Cinquini, open 07:00 - 20:00, Jul - Aug 07:00 - 21:30) is the homonymous castle, which hosts exhibitions. Its 20 Cagliari In Your Pocket

What to see

What to see

art, which he gathered during the long period he spent in present-day Thailand. When he returned to Cagliari, he donated the collection to the city. It includes precious pottery; various objects made of ivory, among which some Japanese miniature statues representing social stereotypes and dragons; silver jewellery; weapons, such as daggers, swords and spears; paintings and furniture. Currently on display is also a private collection of Burmese art, especially wood statues.QB-2, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 65 18 88. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 2, conc. 1. Joint saver ticket for the Museum of Siamese Art, the Old Town Hall and the City Gallery of Modern Art 8, conc. 4. U NaTiOnal ARchaeOlOgical MUseUm (MUseO ARcheOlOgicO NaZiOnale) The museum is housed within the old walls of the Royal Arsenal (Regio Arsenale). The exhibits on display give a fascinating outlook on Sardinias ancient history. It displays archaeological nds dating as far back as the Pre-Nuragic era (6000BC) and the Nuragic period, with a large number of small bronze statues representing, amongst others, warriors, divinities, animals, men and women. Also the later phases of the Phoenician and Punic colonization in Sardinia, between 8th and 3rd centuries BC are well represented.QB/C-1, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 65 59 11, www.archeocaor.beniculturali.it. Open 09:00 - 19:15. Closed Mon. Admission: 3, conc. 1.50. U18 and over 65 free. Joint saver ticket for the National Archaeological Museum and the National Gallery 5, conc. 2.50. U NaTiOnal GalleRY (PinacOTeca NaZiOnale) A contemporary building hosts the National Gallery. In its three oors, parts of the old Spanish and Savoy city walls have been integrated with the rooms where the pictures are on display. Most of the works of the museum were gathered during the 19th century, when the newborn Italian kingdom claimed ownership over Church property. Another important part of the collection is made of the pictures which used to be held at the no longer existing St Franciss church, many dating as far back as the 14th century. Also on display, works by Sardinian artist Pietro Cavaro, active between 1508 and 1538.QB-2, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 66 24 96, www.pinacoteca. cagliari.beniculturali.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed 22 Cagliari In Your Pocket

Mon. Admission: 3, conc. 1.50. U18 and over 65 free. Joint saver ticket for the National Gallery and the National Archaeological Museum 5, conc. 2.50. U Wax AnaTOmical MOdels MUseUm (MUseO delle CeRe AnaTOmiche ClemenTe SUsini) It was 1801 when Francesco Boi, professor of human anatomy at the University of Cagliari, was granted the permission to take a sabbatical period in mainland Italy in order to learn about the latest discoveries in surgery. Based on Bois dissections, artist Clemente Susini created his wax models, which are still today a very realistic representation of parts of the human body. The collection got to Cagliari after it was bought by King Carlo Felice, who wanted to have it on display in his palace as a marvel of those times.QB/C-1, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 675 76 24. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 1.50, conc. 0.50.

is intertwined with that of the knightly Order of the Holy Sepulchre, which established their headquarters here. The Order was active in Cagliari as early as the 16th century and its main mission was to provide burial to the poor. The main entrance to the church is on its right-hand side, which gives onto the square. The church has a single nave with side chapels. The altar in Our Lady of Mercy Chapel is actually one of the nest examples of the Baroque style in Cagliari. Thanks to restoration works in the 1980s, the sepulchral crypt is also open to visitors.QB-3, piazza San Sepolcro, tel. (+39) 070 66 37 24. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. ST AUgUsTines ChURch (Chiesa di SanT AgOsTinO) The building of this church began in 1577 and the project is by Giorgio Palearo, famous at the time for being, along with his brother Jacopo, one of the most inuential military architects in Europe. At the time the two were indeed in Cagliari, working at the new fortications of the city and they were asked by Philip II of Spain himself to build a church dedicated to Saint Augustine. This was to partly compensate the demolition of the old Augustine convent, which had been necessary to allow the construction of the new city walls. It is one the very few Renaissance style buildings in Sardinia and has a Greek-cross plan, barrel vaults and a semi-spherical cupola. Entry to the church is both through the front portal as well as from the sacristy, along largo Carlo Felice.QB-3, via Baylle, tel. (+39) 070 66 42 36. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 20:00. Admission free. U ST EUlalias ChURch, ARchaeOlOgical SiTe and TReasURe MUseUm (Chiesa di SanTEUlalia, aRea aRcheOlOgica e MUseO del TesORO) The parish church of St Eulalia was built by the Aragonese towards the end of the 14th century and named after the patron saint of Barcelona. The building was severely damaged during WWII bombings. Restoration works have brought back the inside to its Aragonese-Gothic style. During the consolidation of the foundations of the building, archaeologists unveiled the remains of water cisterns dating back to the pre-Roman period, paved roads, a house and what was possibly a temple. The visit to the underground site gives an idea of how the various civilizations used the site for over 2,000 years, with the knowledgeable museum guides bringing

the visitors deep down into the roots of the city. For those of you who dont speak Italian, captions are available in English, Spanish and French. Upstairs is the Treasure Museum, with an interesting collection of church paraments, chalices and statues.QB-3, vico del Collegio 2, tel. (+39) 070 66 37 24. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5, U12 2.50. U Via ROma and TOwn Hall (PalaZZO COmUnale) Cagliaris main street runs along the sea-front, opposite the harbour. After the demolition of the old walls which protected the Marina quarter from raids by enemy eets, via Roma gradually became an elegant promenade with cafs, shops and a high-end department store, under the arcades. At one end, the street features the contemporary building of the Regional Parliament, while at the other end, opposite the train and bus stations, is the Town Hall. The building was inaugurated in 1907 and severely damaged during the WWII. It is inspired by Catalan-Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. It follows the patterns of the arcades along via Roma and the limestone faade has seven arches and two central 38m high octagonal turrets. On the front gate, a bronze eagle holds the coat of arms of Cagliari. A walk along via Roma is a must if you want to get a general idea of what Cagliari can be as a whole. Its not unusual to see old men in suits discussing the latest political scandal, teenagers strolling along and holding hands, sailors and dock workers sitting next to regional government functionaries, or even the mayor walking by on his way to his oce.QA/B-3/4/C-4.

MaRiNa
Marina was already urbanised more than two thousand years ago and its life has always been centred around the harbour. It was abandoned for centuries during the Middle Ages, but in the the 13th century the Pisans set up their commercial activities in the area then called Lapola, between the waterfront and Castello, they built walls around it and the quarter has flourished ever since. When the defensive walls which surrounded the Marina were pulled down in the 19th century, the quarter opened up to the rest of the city and the wide streets that mark its borders are still important features: via Roma, that runs along the port, with its arcades, cafes and shops; viale Regina Margherita, and its exclusive restaurants, leading up to Saint Remy Rampart; largo Carlo Felice, with its banks and shops, is still one of the citys main arteries. However, to get the feel of the Marina, you must venture into the narrow streets, just behind via Roma, and hear the voices of its multi-ethnic population talking from window to window, the delicious smells coming from the kitchens of its many restaurants and just walk around. ChURch OF The HOlY SePUlchRe (Chiesa di San SePOlcRO) Although it is not possible to provide an exact date for its founding, the history of the church cagliari.inyourpocket.com

STampaCE
The name Stampace probably originates from the old greeting stai in pace (stay in peace). Stampace is, among the four historical quarters of Cagliari, probably the one which still bears the most testimonies of the ancient civilizations which lived in the area since the Punic and then Roman colonisations. After the Pisan conquest, in the 13th century, Stampace was a village mainly lived by artisans, wrapped inside its no-longer existing walls, of which the only remnant is the Buttress Gate (Porta dello Sperone), at the top of via Azuni. Although Stampace suffered badly during the WWII bombings and has now become largely multiSummer - Autumn 2014 23

What to see
ethnic, it still preserves its traditional character. A street festival called Cuccurus Cottus (the old nickname for the inhabitants of Stampace, which in Sardinian means hot heads) is held every August, when the quarter is brought back to life by the thousands of people that gather. Nightlife in Stampace is definitely Cagliaris liveliest, with its dozens of bars and restaurants, both north and south of the main street, corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Dont miss it! BOTanical GaRden (ORTO BOTanicO) If youre in need of some shade after having walked about Cagliaris city centre on a warm sunny morning, or indeed if youre a lover of plants, in particular special Mediterranean varieties, tropical or succulent species, then its worth checking out the University of Cagliaris Botanical Garden, inaugurated in 1866. Its about 5 hectares big and features some 600 trees and 1,000 succulent plants. Located at the bottom of the Roman Amphitheatre (although there is no thoroughfare between these two places), the gardens also proudly include ancient Phoenician and Roman cisterns, now fertile breeding zones for water lilies and papyrus.QA-2, via SantIgnazio da Laconi 11, tel. (+39) 070 675 35 22, info@ccbsardegna.it, www.ccb-sardegna.it/virtual/ virtualorto.html. Open 08:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 4. Guided tour 6. U6 and over 65 free. HOUse OF TigelliUs (Villa di TigelliO) This archaeological site was named after the famous poet and bard, Tigellius, a contemporary of emperor Augustus, well known for his wealthy and extravagant life style, who allegedly resided here in a luxurious villa. In fact, a more accurate study of the area has revealed a series of dierent houses in what probably used to be a residential area in ancient Karalis, existing as early as the 1st century BC. A visit to the site can give visitors the idea of what a Roman house used to be like, especially with the aid of visual reconstructions available at reception. Visibile today are the impluvia, i.e. the area of the house where rainwater was harvested, the small bedrooms, as well as fragments of frescoes and mosaic oors.QA-3, via Tigellio, tel. (+39) 329 874 89 77. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3, conc. 2. U PiaZZa Yenne Its the main meeting point for locals, especially during the hot summer nights. People gather here to have a chat before moving up to Castello or to some club out of town; to sit in the terraces of the many cafes and bars, sipping cocktails or Sardinian beer; or simply, to have a walk while slurping a large homemade ice-cream. Piazza Yenne is also an important cross-roads, ideally placed between Marina and Stampace, just below the Elephant Tower, at the edge of Castello. Piazza Yenne is where the state road 131 from Cagliari to Sassari used to start from, and the statue at the center of the roundabout represents King Carlo Felice, who uses his left arm to point the way. Among Sardinians, the road 131 is still nowadays called la Carlo Felice!QB-3. 24 Cagliari In Your Pocket ROman AmPhiTheaTRe (AnFiTeaTRO ROmanO) Probably the most important building of the Roman period still visible in Sardinia. Its almost entirely carved in the sloping rock, using the natural valley that goes down from Buon Cammino. It was built between the 1st and 2nd century AD and it could originally seat up to 10,000 spectators. The terraces were divided into three dierent orders, depending on the social level spectators belonged to. The shows included ghts between gladiators, or against wild beasts, which used to be kept in cages, at the sides of the arena, and still visible today. The walk along Buon Cammino to get there is magnicent, rewarded as it is by beautiful views and a downhill walk back down to piazza Yenne.QB-1, via SantIgnazio da Laconi 19, tel. (+39) 338 277 47 90/ (+39) 070 65 29 56, info@anfiteatroromano.it, www. anfiteatroromano.it. Closed for repairs. ST Annes ChURch (Chiesa di SanTAnna) The foundation stone of the parish church of St Anne, based on architect Giuseppe Vianas initial project, was laid in 1785, but the building wasnt inaugurated until 1818 and then nished in the 1930s. It was severely damaged during WWII and didnt re-open until 1951. The structure of the church is a typical example of Baroque architecture, although the styles characteristic decorations werent restored after the latest reparation works. Its twin steeples are a benchmark in Stampaces skyline and the church is an important religious and social point of reference for Cagliaris old town.QB-2, via Azuni, tel. (+39) 070 66 39 63. Open 08:00 - 12:00. Admission free. ST Michaels ChURch (Chiesa di San Michele) The church was consecrated in 1738, although its construction had begun much earlier, and had been possible thanks to a large donation by politician and lawyer Francesco Angelo Dess, who died in 1674. He had been very close to the Society of Jesus, which used to have a novitiate building on the site of the present-day church, which still belongs to the Jesuits. The building is indeed the typical Jesuit church as regards architecture and is probably the nest example of Baroque art in Cagliari. It is ideally placed for a quick visit, just few minutes walk away from piazza Yenne. Guided tours also in English.QB-3, via Ospedale 12, tel. (+39) 070 65 86 26. Open 8:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sun 08.30 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Admission free. ST ResTiTUTas CRYPT (CRiPTa di SanTa ResTiTUTa) This hypogeal space was believed to have been the site of Saint Restitutas martyrdom. The crypt was long forgotten and, during the 17th century excavations, the ancient relics were found, leading to a partial restoration of the site and its embellishment with altars and statues. During the WWII bombings, the relics were transferred to neighbouring St Annes Church, while the crypt was used as an air-raid shelter.QB-3, via SantEfisio 14, tel. (+39) 320 052 20 83, camumarketing@gmail. com. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. cagliari.inyourpocket.com

What to see

VillaNoVa
Villanova (in Sardinian Bidda Noa, which means New Town) is probably the most recent of the four historical quarters in Cagliari, although 13th century documents prove its existence. Traditionally, its main activity was agriculture. For some centuries, it had walls built around it, which used to follow what is now one of Cagliaris main shopping streets, via Garibaldi, and they are no longer visible. The old part of the quarter gives the visitor the impression of being in a small village. It mainly lives along via San Giovanni, the churches of St James and St Dominic, and the many narrow streets and alleyways. Until only a decade ago, it was not unusual to see its inhabitants grilling fresh fish outdoors, especially on Sunday mornings. Even though in the recent years, Villanova has lost some of its more socially folkloristic aspects, the quarter has improved a lot and is living a new birth. The old buildings are being restored and via Sulis, the part of Villanova closer to Saint Remy Rampart, has now become a high-end shopping street, while carpenters and small shops are gradually opening up their activities, making a walk through Villanova a worthwhile experience. Basilica OF ST SaTURnin (Basilica di San SaTURninO) The basilica is probably the most ancient example of Romanesque architecture in Cagliari. A 6th century document mentions the site for the rst time. It had probably already been built in the place where young Saturnin had been martyred in 304AD. The church and the adjacent monastery were gradually abandoned during the Middle Ages, then restored during the Spanish domination, before part of its limestone bricks were used for restoration works in the Cathedral. The surrounding necropolis has given light to many Roman and Byzantine burials. Only the central part of what used to be the Greek cross plan is visible.QD-3, piazza San Cosimo, tel. (+39) 070 65 98 69. Closed until further notice. CiTY GalleRY OF MOdeRn ART (GalleRia COmUnale dARTe MOdeRna) In the beautiful setting of the Public Gardens (Giardini pubblici), the City Gallery of Modern Art is hosted in a ne Neo-Classical building.

The museum displays its works on two oors and holds, as a permanent exhibition, the Ingrao Collection, with 19th and 20th century paintings and sculptures by Italian artists such as Umberto Boccioni, to whom an entire room is dedicated, Giorgio Morandi and Mino Maccari, among many others. On the ground oor is the Sardinian Collection (Collezione Sarda), displaying a selection of works by Sardinian artists. The museum has a wellstocked shop, with a fairly large selection of books and souvenirs. Guided tours in English or French to be booked in advance.QB-2, viale San Vincenzo 2, tel. (+39) 070 677 75 98, visite@galleriacomunalecagliari.it, www. galleriacomunalecagliari.it. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 6, conc. 2.60. Joint saver ticket for the City Gallery of Modern Art, the Museum of Siamese Art and the Old Town Hall 8, conc. 4. U Exm Exm is a multi-functional space which regularly hosts temporary exhibitions, screening of movies, theatre and live music shows. It is located inside the closed walls of the old city slaughterhouse, which was renovated in 1993. Right beside a very busy road, Exm is a quiet oasis of peace, with a hamlet-like feeling to it. It is denitely worth paying a visit after seeing the Basilica of St Saturnin, which is only a few minutes walk away.QC-3, via San Lucifero 71, tel. (+39) 070 66 63 99, exma@camuweb.it, www. camuweb.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special exhibitions may charge an admission fee. U ST Jamess ChURch (Chiesa di San GiacOmO) This is one of the oldest parish churches in Cagliari and documents date it back as early as the 14th century. It was built in the typical Catalan-Gothic style of the time. It underwent restoration works in the 18th and then the 19th century, which added the Neo-Classical faade, based on a project by architect Gaetano Cima. The main structure has preserved many Gothic elements, e.g. the steeple, the apse behind the main altar and four side chapels. Its worth to walk in to have a look, while walking around the busy shopping streets of Villanova.QC-3, piazza San Giacomo 3, tel. (+39) 070 66 28 71. Open 08:00 - 11:00. Admission free. Summer - Autumn 2014 25

What to see
OTHER siGHTs
Basilica OF OUR LadY OF BOnaRia (Basilica di NOsTRa SignORa di BOnaRia) The basilica, the sanctuary and the convent are built on the hill south-east of the city centre and about a 15/20 minute walk from via Roma. The initial church, which maintains its original Gothic architecture, was built after 1323, on the site where the Aragonese decided to set up their camp and lay siege to the city. It was then donated to the Order of Our Lady of Mercy, who then built a convent. In 1370, during a terrible storm in the gulf of Cagliari, a ship wrecked and part of its load, a large case containing a very ne statue of Our Lady, was found on the shore in front of the church. Both the statue and the case are on public display. The building of the adjacent basilica started in the 18th century and it was then resumed, but not nished until 1926. The complex is surrounded by a small but pleasant park, with nice views over the port.QD-3, piazza Bonaria, tel. (+39) 070 30 17 47, www.bonaria.eu. Open 08:00 - 11:30, 16:00 - 19:00. Admission free. CaVe OF The ViPeR (GROTTa della ViPeRa) The Cave of the Viper is a burial monument which was erected between the 1st and 2nd century AD. Lucius Cassius Philippus, a Roman who had been exiled to Sardinia, dedicated it to his wife Atilia Pomptilla, who was buried there. The legend tells us that during a bad illness that Lucius had been suering from, his wife prayed so much that she ended up dying in his place. Though fairly small, the monument is important for the engraved poems in Latin and Ancient Greek at the sides of the grotto.QF-1, viale SantAvendrace 87, tel. (+39) 070 455 65 65. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. U LaZaReT (LaZZaReTTO) This building used to be the lazaret of the city and it dates back to the 16th century. It was built in what was then a completely isolated area, far from the city and was intended to keep people and goods coming from the sea, which needed to be quarantined. This was a common practice of the time and the idea was to prevent the spreading of epidemics carried by ships and sailors. The structure is currently used for concerts, theatre performances, temporary exhibitions and festivals of dierent kinds.QG-4, via dei Navigatori, tel. (+39) 070 383 80 85, lazzaretto2000@ tiscali.it, www.lazzarettodicagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5, conc. 3. U MOlenTaRgiUs Saline PaRk (PaRcO NaTURale RegiOnale MOlenTaRgiUs Saline)Molentargius Saline Park includes the ancient salt mines (saline), whose use is certied by documents dating back to the Roman period, and the Molentargius pond itself, with its protected wildlife. Home to amingoes and other species of residential and migratory birds, the park is ideally placed between Urpinu Hill and Poetto Beach, giving visitors the possibility to trek, run or cycle. There are also spots for bird watching.QG-3, Edificio Sali Scelti, via La Palma, tel. (+39) 070 37 91 92 01, infopoint@parcomolentargius.it, 26 Cagliari In Your Pocket www.parcomolentargius.it. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Bicycle rental first hour 3, 2 hours 5, each additional hour 1, U11 first hour 2, 2 hours 3, each additional hour 0.50. Guided tours by boat 10, U11 5, U3 free (book in advance). TU ST Michael CasTle (CasTellO di San Michele) The castle is in the north-western outskirts of the city and the hill where it was built is now a pleasant park for walks and relaxing views of Cagliaris skyline, even though its surrounded by blocks of ats. It dates back to the 14th century and it was needed by the Aragonese conquerors to consolidate their power and to prevent attempts of invasion from the north. Despite the many transformations made to it over the centuries, the castle has preserved its three mighty towers and a deep moat around it. St Michael Castle is used as a venue for temporary exhibitions and other events.QF-1, via Sirai, tel. (+39) 070 50 06 56, castellosanmichele@camuweb.it, www. camuweb.it. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5, conc. 4. U

Getting Around
AiRliNEs
AiR BeRlin Dsseldorf, Munich, Zurich.Qtel. 199 40 07 37, www.airberlin.com. AiR One Venice.Qtel. (+39) 091 255 10 47, www.flyairone. com. AliTalia Milan-Linate, Rome-Fiumicino.Qtel. 89 20 10, www.alitalia.com. AUsTRian AiRlines Vienna.Qtel. (+39) 02 30 30 11 60, www.austrian.com. BRUssels AiRlines Brussels.Qtel. 899 800 903/(+32) 2 723 23 62, www.brusselsairlines.com. EasYJeT Basel, Berlin-Schnefeld, Geneva, London-Stansted, Milan-Malpensa, Paris-Orly.Qtel. 899 23 45 89, www. easyjet.com. ETihad RegiOnal Geneva, Lugano.Qtel. (+41) 91 208 70 80/(+39) 06 89 97 04 22, www.etihadregional.com. GeRmanwings Cologne, Dsseldorf, Stuttgart.Qtel. 199 25 70 13, www.germanwings.com. LUFThansa Munich.Qtel. (+39) 02 30 30 10 00, www. lufthansa.com. MeRidiana Bologna, Catania, Chiinu, Dsseldorf, Kyiv, London-Gatwick, Milan-Malpensa, Moscow-Domodedovo, Munich, Naples, Trieste, Turin, Verona.Qtel. 89 29 28, www. meridiana.it. MinOan AiR Salerno, Split.Qtel. (+30) 28 10 33 31 83/(+30) 28 10 33 31 82, sales@minoanair.com, www.minoanair. com. RYanaiR Bari, Baden-Baden, Beauvais, Bergamo, Charleroi, Cuneo, Frankfurt-Hahn, Genoa, Girona, Kaunas, Krakow, London-Gatwick, Madrid, Marseille, Milan-Malpensa, Parma, Perugia, Pescara, Pisa, Rome-Ciampino, Trapani, Treviso, Trieste, Valencia, Weeze.Qtel. 89 55 00 00 20, www.ryanair.com. SAS ScandinaVian AiRlines Copenhagen, Stockholm.Qtel. 199 259 104, www.flysas.com. VOlOTea Ancona, Venice.Qtel. 199 208 717, www. volotea.com. VUeling Barcelona, Florence.Qtel. 899 39 98 88, www. vueling.com. and have an ID card or passport. So far there are four locations from where the bicycle can be picked up or dropped o (cicloposteggio), in via Sonnino, piazza della Repubblica, piazza Giovanni XXIII and at Marina Piccola.QB-3/4, Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale), piazza De Gasperi 2, 6th floor, tel. (+39) 070 677 83 81/800 45 63 00, www.bicincitta. com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Card 30, including 25 annual fee plus 5 spending charge.

BUs & ToURisT TRaiN ToURs

CiTY TOUR CagliaRi The open top bus tour takes approximately one hour and will take you around to see the the most remarkable sights there are to visit in Cagliari. Youll get the chance to see the old city walls and towers driving around Castello, rather than through it. Youll see the Roman Amphitheatre and the beautiful views of the Gulf of the Angels. The tour even takes you as far as Poetto Beach and if youre lucky youll see the wonderful colours of amingoes in the salt lakes of the Molentargius Saline Park.QB-3, piazza Yenne, tel. 800 42 28 50, www.citytourcagliari.com. Dept. 09:30 19:30. 10, 5-12 5, U5 free. TReninO CagliaRiTanO Welcome on board is the logo for the tourist train. The journey lasts about 45 minutes and it goes under the old mediaeval towers, then taking you through the narrow, cobbled streets of Castello, giving visitors the opportunity to see some beautiful views of the city and the Molentargius Saline Park.QB-3, piazza del Carmine, tel. (+39) 070 65 55 49, www.trenino.it. Dept. 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Oct 11:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Nov - Dec no service.

POETTO BEACH
It is the longest beach in Sardinia and the main coastal resort for the cagliaritani. It stretches for around 8km. During the summer months its at its best and caters for many needs. Its not short of restaurants, pizzerias, cafs and bars. On the beach itself, the crowds are incredibly variable and many people love to go to a certain part of it but absolutely not one kilometre further back or further on. There are however some features which remain the same all along Poetto Beach. The sea of course, which can be blissfully crystal-clear when the much awaited north-westerly mistral wind is blowing. Access to the beach is free of cost, although scattered along its whole length there are footbridges across the sand leading to designated areas where you can hire pedal boats, beach-beds, deck-chairs and sunumbrellas, have showers and so on. Another element of pride and pleasure, as well as an absolute must for locals, are the beach kiosks (chioschi ), which are located along the seafront. Every caf-kiosk is dierent, but without exceptions they all serve coees, soft drinks, beers, sandwiches and pastries; in the summer months, they are all open seven days a week till late at night. Poetto is also very popular with sport lovers, for running and cycling, kite- and wind-surng, sailing, swimming and so on, which eectively makes the entire beach area a huge open-air gym. Theres an increased bus service during the summer months, which takes thousands of people back and forth to the beach (take any bus line bearing a P). At night however, youre better o if you have a car, take a taxi or else be prepared for a one-hour walk back to the city centre.QH-2/3. cagliari.inyourpocket.com

BUsEs
Public transportation network CTM provides a somewhat ecient and fast service around the city and the suburbs. Buses run roughly from 04:00 to 00:50. Tickets can be bought from CTM Points, newspaper stands and tobacconists, marked with a big black and white T outside the shop. A 90-minute ticket is 1.20 when purchased in advance or 1.70 on the bus. Have exact change ready when you buy the ticket on the bus. Other options include a 1-day ticket (3), a weekly ticket (12) and a monthly ticket (30, over 65 14), all valid on Metrocagliari too. Tickets must be clipped once on board. CTM POinT Viale TRiesTeQF-2, viale Trieste 151, tel. 800 07 88 70/(+39) 070 209 12 10, www.ctmcagliari. it. Open 08:15 - 13:00, 14:30 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 08:15 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From 25 Aug open 08:05 - 18:00, Sat 08:05 - 12:00. Closed Sun. CTM POinT PiaZZa MaTTeOTTiQB-4, piazza Matteotti. Open 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Summer - Autumn 2014 27

BiCyClE RENTal
BicinciTT A card is needed to rent a bicycle and can be purchased at the Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale). You must be 18 or older

Getting Around
TOUR BaiRe Buses to a number of destinations south-west of Cagliari. Tickets are sold on board buses. Tour Baire also oers coach, minibus and chaueur driven cars hire, and provides transfer pick ups at Cagliari-Elmas Airport.Qvia Cagliari 88, Capoterra, tel. (+39) 070 72 02 18, fax (+39) 070 72 07 67, info@tourbaire.com, www.tourbaire.it. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. EUROPcaR (aiRPORT)QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 01 26, fax (+39) 070 212 96 71, www.europcar. it. Open 08:00 - 23:00. EUROPcaR (ciTY)QF-1, viale Monastir km 3.550, tel. (+39) 070 208 41 15, fax (+39) 070 208 19 57, www. europcar.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. HeRTZ (aiRPORT)QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 00 37, fax (+39) 070 24 08 55, www.hertz.it. Open 08:00 - 23:00. HeRTZ (ciTY)QB-4, piazza Matteotti 8, tel. (+39) 070 65 10 78, fax (+39) 070 66 34 57, www.hertz.it. Open 08:30 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30. MaggiORe (aiRPORT)QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 08 18, fax (+39) 070 212 89 76, cagliari.cg1@ maggiorerent.it, www.maggiore.it. Open 07:30 - 22:00. MaggiORe (ciTY)QF-1, viale Monastir 116, tel. (+39) 070 27 36 92, fax (+39) 070 208 05 36, cagliari.cg2@ maggiorerent.it, www.maggiore.it. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. SaRdinYa Also oer scooter and motorbike rental.QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 04 44, sardinya. autonoleggi@tiscali.it, www.autonoleggiosardinya.it. Open 08:00 - 22:00. SixTQCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel./fax (+39) 070 21 20 45, www.sixt.it. Open 08:45 - 21:45, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30. piazza Yenne, tel. (+39) 328 276 11 64/(+39) 347 367 45 98, info@isolachevorrei.com, www.cagliaritour.com. 15 Jun - 15 Oct open 09:30 - 13:00. 16 Oct - 14 Jun book in advance. Prices on request. T SaRdinia TOURisT GUide Sardinia Tourist Guide provides professional tourist, nature and walking guides to accompany visitors on fascinating excursions all over the island in a 9-seater van. They put their vast experience and a genuine love of their land at your disposal and guide you on archaeological and cultural journeys to discover the essence of Sardinia, its history and traditions. For the more active there are also numerous trekking tours to enjoy which take you o the beaten track to explore the hidden treasures of the island.Qvia Palmas 117, Selargius, tel. (+39) 349 455 83 67, fax (+39) 178 604 15 20, info@sardiniatouristguide.it, www.sardiniatouristguide. it. Book in advance. Prices on request. TA

Getting Around

CaR paRKiNG
By far the easiest and most pleasant way to visit the city centre is on foot. If you do decide to use your car, white lines (very few of them left) indicate free parking. If the lines are blue look for a parking meter (parchimetro) and pay the price. Tickets should be displayed on your car windscreen. The cost depends on the parking zone you are in. Expect to pay 1/hr in the city centre. Be sure to have plenty of coins to hand as parking meters neither give change nor accept credit cards. Parking is free from 13:00 to 16:00, from 20:00 to 09:00, on Sundays and public holidays. Many of the parking areas in the city centre are, unfortunately, presided over by unocial attendants wishing to receive a tip. Whilst these people can seem intimidating, they do not pose a real threat and the best you can do is ignore them. Disabled parking spaces are available at Metropark Cagliari and Regina Elena Parking Garage. MeTROPaRk CagliaRi Located adjacent to the bus and railway stations, only a ve minute walk from piazza Yenne, the Metropark has 652 spaces including 13 bays for disabled drivers.QB-4, piazza Matteotti, tel. 800 65 00 06, www.metropark.it. Open 24/7. Hourly rate 1, daily rate 10, monthly rate 80. AU Regina Elena PaRking GaRage Situated a few minutes walk from the Saint Remy Rampart, the Regina Elena Parking Garage boasts 628 spaces and has a lift that can take you straight up the hill to Castello. QB-2, viale Regina Elena, tel. (+39) 070 684 89 60/(+39) 348 211 03 88, ca.reginaelena@apcoa.it, www.apcoa.it. Open 24/7. Hourly rate 1.20, daily rate 5. AU

INTERNET & Wi-Fi

In the era of laptops, smartphones and tablets, what you really need are hotspots. There is free outdoor Wi-Fi in via Roma, in largo Carlo Felice and at Marina Piccola. Start your device, connect and follow the instructions. Many bars and cafs have free Wi-Fi as well.

METRo
MeTROcagliaRi At the moment Metrocagliari only operates one surface line, from piazza della Repubblica to neighbouring Monserrato, part of outer Cagliari. Trains run from 06:00 to 22:40. Tickets must be stamped once inside the train.QC/D-2, piazza della Repubblica, M Repubblica, tel. (+39) 070 47 41 211, informazioni.ca@arst.sardegna.it, www.arst.sardegna. it/orari_e_autolinee/servizi_metroca.html. Ticket office open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:30 - 14:00. 90-minute ticket 1.20, carnet of 12 90-minute tickets 12. U

CHaUFFEUR DRiVE sERViCEs

STeFanO Scalas Taxi services, airport transfers, tours of Cagliari and Sardinia, Stefano Scalas is your personal driver and provides a 24 hours service so you can sit back and enjoy your journey in comfort. Ideal for small groups and wheelchair friendly, choose from the numerous excursions Stefano proposes or personalize your itinerary. Tour guides and English interpreters available on request.Qvia Sorgono 12, Monserrato, tel. (+39) 329 615 89 88, info@sardiniadriver.com, www.sardiniadriver.com. Book in advance. Prices on request. PTU

TaXi
Cagliaris taxis are safe and generally reliable. Cheating is rare. Just make sure that the meter is running before you set o. The starting rate is 3 (5 on Sundays and public holidays, 5.50 between 22:00 and 06:00) with a per kilometre rate of 0.90, which goes up to 1.30 at night time or when driving out of town. Few taxi drivers speak English, so its a good idea to write down the address, or to call someone who can explain. RadiO Taxi 4 MORi Qtel. (+39) 070 40 01 01, radiotaxi@email.it, www. cagliaritaxi.com. Operating 24/7. RadiO Taxi ROssObl Qtel. (+39) 070 66 55, fax (+39) 070 65 81 30, info@ radiotaxirossoblu.com, www.radiotaxirossoblu.com. Operating 24/7. Summer - Autumn 2014 29

CaR RENTal
All you need to rent a car is a credit card, an ID card or passport and valid driving licence. Some companies do require a minimum age and minimum driving experience. If renting a car with children you must also rent the appropriate seat or cushion for their age and weight. AVis (aiRPORT) QCagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 00 31, www.avisautonoleggio.it. Open 07:30 - 22:30. AVis (ciTY) QC-4, via Roma 16, tel. (+39) 070 67 49 03, www.avisautonoleggio.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. 28 Cagliari In Your Pocket

GUiDED ToURs
LIsOla che VORRei A young and dynamic group of professionals organise guided tours of Cagliari and surrounding areas. Youll set o on foot or on a small coach with one of the friendly tour guides, ready to go and explore the historical city centre or the beach or some of Cagliaris underground sites. In fact, you can have your tailor-made tour and can venture out as far as Villasimius, Nora or Barumini, just to name a few. Tours in English, German, French and Spanish.QB-3, cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Shopping
in new materials, coloured glass, silk and silver. Across the road at n. 13 you will nd a selection of genuine made in Italy clothes, collections by Lo Spaventapasseri of Genoa and colourful, ethnic garments which embrace dierent styles. If you want fashion with originality and, of course, quality these two delightful boutiques are a must!QB-3, via Mazzini 12-13, tel. (+39) 070 66 56 46/(+39) 070 66 93 93, infonagabbigliamento@gmail.com, info@ nagagioielli.com, www.nagadigiacomodallari.it, www. nagagioielli.com. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:15 - 20:15, Mon 17:15 - 20:15. Closed Sun. Jul - Aug 10:00 - 13:00, 17:15 20:15, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Shopping

jewelry design and clothes

Shopping in Cagliari is not just running around a shopping centre but actually strolling down the citys narrow, cobbled streets while enjoying the marvellous experience of shopping. Italy is famous for its high-end fashion and Cagliari is no exception. You can nd anything from your typical street bargain to high-end fashions and couture. Bear in mind that shops are closed on Sundays and the majority also close at lunchtime. Lunchtime closing hours vary from shop to shop but most close from 13:00/13:30 to 16:30/17:00.

Cagliari via G. Mazzini 12 - 13

making easier! The usual gastronomic delights are on offer, perfect for picking up ingredients for an impromptu picnic lunch. Once youre back outside, you can admire the excellent view it has over the city.QB-3, scalette Santa Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 66 39 39. Open 07:00 14:00. Closed Sun. MeRcaTO San BenedeTTO If you are looking to buy and taste locally grown fresh produce then you are in the right place. Mercato San Benedetto is one of the biggest fresh produce markets in Europe. Opened in 1957, it is a two level structure of about 4,000 square metres each. The sh-seafood department is located on the ground oor (a must see) while the fresh produce sections such as, meat, cheese, fresh baked bread, locally grown organic fruit and vegetables are located on the upper oor. There are about 240 stalls available to visit and buy products from. If this is not part of your travel guide itinerary then you must include it. It is not your typical market. The vendors are extremely friendly and welcoming while oering their costumers a once in a lifetime experience. Savour a couple of hours mingling with the locals and tourists while visiting this lively market.QC-1, via Cocco Ortu, tel. (+39) 070 40 33 96, www.mercatosanbenedetto. com. Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

FooD
DeliZie di SaRdegna This shop oers a truly large selection of very good quality only-Sardinian products. Be tempted by traditional cakes, honey and jams, as well as other organic products of the island, such as olive oil, artichokes in oil, myrtle wine and le ferru (a type of local grappa), just to name a few. Also a good range of typical Sardinian linen and ceramics for sale. You can also order a cabinet or a chest, and the shop manager will arrange the shipping to your home address. Tailor-made Sardinian costumes can be created, though allow up to a few weeks for nal delivery. If youre looking for a gift to bring back home, theres also a large variety of souvenirs to choose from.QB-3, via Sardegna 22, tel. (+39) 070 66 93 80/(+39) 349 059 89 88, info@deliziedisardegna.it, www.deliziedisardegna.it. Open 09:30 - 20:00. PaneTTeRia di SUsanna SORchi Delicious bakery and delicatessen conveniently located in the city centre. The small shop window is crammed with delights which will whet your appetite. It oers a vast selection of freshly baked bread, including pane carasau (music bread), pastries and Sardinian biscuits, pardulas and amoretti, but also a delicious array of local cured meats, cheese, honey and jams, as well as Sardinian speciality pasta and culurgiones (dumplings).QB-3, piazza Yenne 21, tel. (+39) 333 492 78 85/(+39) 340 893 72 06, susanna.sorchi@ tiscali.it. Open 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

DEpaRTmENT SToREs
la RinascenTe For those who love shopping but hate going from shop to shop, la Rinascente is a one stop shop. A high-end department store that has something for everyone. Whether you are looking for that perfect evening dress or an every day to day bag or maybe a new pair of sunglasses or why not, a new watch, this department store has it all. Mens, womens, childrens luxury collections, beauty, accessories, houseware items and lingerie. Impossible to miss.QB-3, via Roma 143, tel. (+39) 070 65 32 71, www. rinascente.it. Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Via Sardegna 22, Cagliari Tel. (+39) 070 66 93 80 - 349 059 89 88 info@deliziedisardegna.it

MaRKETs
MeRcaTO di SanTa ChiaRa It is the oldest of the current municipal markets, having opened its doors in 1955, and has all the charm and personality betting such a title. It has only one oor and a handful of stalls, but this should at least make decision

FasHioN
Naga Just behind the busy pedestrian shopping street of via Manno lie these two charming boutiques. Via Mazzini n. 12 specialises in handmade jewellery and accessories inspired by the colours of Sardinia, essential designs crafted

JEwEllERy
LORedana Mandas In Loredana Mandass laboratory, one of the few ligree jewellery artisans in southern Sardinia, you can experience the thrill of art in progress as you watch her creating hand-made jewellery typical of the islands rich craft traditions. Her shop window abounds in unique pieces of artwork from traditional ethnic jewellery to geometric motifs, pendants, earrings and rings embellished with precious and semiprecious stones. If no one is in the shop ring the bell on the right, as Loredana lives just above the shop and will come down and assist you.QB-3, via Sicilia 31, tel. (+39) 070 66 76 48, info@loredanamandas.com, www.loredanamandas.com. Open 09:30 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. Summer - Autumn 2014 31

30 Cagliari In Your Pocket

cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle Directory
DENTisTs
CenTRO OdOnTOiaTRicO SaRdO BaiReQA-3, via Roma 52, tel. (+39) 070 66 76 00, cosbaire@gmail. com, www.centroodontoiatricosardo.com. Open 08:30 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. STUdiO DenTisTicO AssOciaTO CaRUsO QB3, corso Vittorio Emanuele II 16, tel. (+39) 070 68 22 22, www.dentistacaruso.it. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. STUdiO OdOnTOiaTRicO AssOciaTO FalcOni QA-3, via Mameli 222, tel. (+39) 070 27 21 20, studiofalconi@tiscali.it, www.studioodontoiatricofalconi. com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. FRaTelli Binelli QA-3, via Pola 14, tel. (+39) 070 65 83 65, fratellibinelli@yahoo.it. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

KiNDERGaRTENs
BabY in GiaRdinO QC-3, via Lanusei 27, tel. (+39) 070 66 43 46, bpingiardino@tiscali.it, www. babyingiardino.it. Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. ChaTTeRbOx Kindergarden and primary school. All classes held in English. Fully qualied English-speaking sta.QA-4, viale La Plaia 11, tel. (+39) 070 684 85 51/(+39) 345 387 86 47, chatterbox@tiscali.it, www.chatterboxenglishschool. co.uk. Open 07:45 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. HaPPY BabY AsilO NidO in Inglese English language kindergarten.QC-1, via Rossini 13, tel. (+39) 328 859 37 83. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

DRy ClEaNERs
DesOgUs QC-2, via Satta 54, tel. (+39) 070 66 35 03. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. LaVaseccO POnY QC-3, via del Collegio 11, tel. (+39) 070 65 86 28. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. LaVaseccO San GiORgiO QC-3, via Iglesias 33, tel. (+39) 070 66 33 27. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:15 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

LaUNDERETTEs
Le LaVandeRie del CORsO This central self-service launderette is very handy and well-equipped. Easy to use modern washing machines are available in a clean environment, as well as driers and a laundry press. There is also a deposit service for a small charge if you want to leave your laundry there.QA-3, corso Vittorio Emanuele II 270, tel. (+39) 392 923 71 48, www.lelavanderiedelcorso.com. Open 07:30 - 22:30. W

LibRaRiEs
CagliaRi UniVeRsiTY LibRaRY (BibliOTeca UniVeRsiTaRia) You must register to borrow books, but you can just walk in to consult their vast selection and while you are there why not visit the impressive 18th century chamber.QB-3, via Universit 32, tel. (+39) 070 66 10 21, fax (+39) 070 65 26 72, www.sba.unica.it. Open 08:15 - 19:15, Sat 08:15 - 13:00. Closed Sun. R MEM MediaTeca del MediTeRRaneO Its the multi-media library located in what used to be a fresh-food market. Apart from a large selection of books, DVDs and CDs, the MEM hosts a number of cultural activities. Facilities include a charming cafeteria and a tourist information centre.QA-3, via Mameli 164, tel. (+39) 070 677 38 65, fax (+39) 070 677 38 66, mem@comune.cagliari.it. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. RUW

HaiRDREssERs & BEaUTy SaloNs

CUT&GO! Unisex English, German and Russian spoken.QD-2, via Cugia 10, tel. (+39) 070 311 40 30, info@ cutandgounisex.com, www.cutandgounisex.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Il TOccO degli Angeli QD-1, via Bellini 51-53, tel. (+39) 070 49 83 09/(+39) 339 361 26 30, www. iltoccodegliangeli.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Linea EsTeTica SEM QD-3/4, via Donizetti 78, tel. (+39) 070 49 31 25, info@lineaesteticasem.it, www. lineaesteticasem.it. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 14:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

CAGLIARI VIA ROMA

GIVE THIS COUPON AT LA RINASCENTE STORE IN CAGLIARI YOULL GET 10%* OFF ON YOUR PURCHASES.
*Valid except for regional restriction regulations and only on brands which support the initiative. The discount cannot be combined with other promotions. Not valid for residents in Cagliari. Valid until December 31st, 2014. **Tax free: If you are resident in an Extra-EU country and you have spent at least 154.94 euros in the same day, you are entitled to a refund of 12% on the total amount of your purchase.

OpTiCiaNs
OTTica COsenTinOQC-3, via Sonnino 34/B, tel. (+39) 070 65 91 11, ottica.cosentino@tiscali.it, www. otticacosentino.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. OTTica GasPeRiniQC-2, piazza Garibaldi 42, tel. (+39) 070 65 97 10. Open 09:30 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. Summer - Autumn 2014 33

2 340000 001323

ENJOY YOUR SHOPPING

-10%* -12%**

RicciOlO QB-3, via Savoia 8, tel. (+39) 070 640 24 99. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

KEy CUTs
CaPRa QB-3, via Sassari 77/A, tel. (+39) 070 65 38 59. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

LIfestyle Directory
PREss BoX
Brutally honest. Wall Street Journal Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison. The Independent From Albania to Ukraine In Your Pocket is a wonderful source of boutique hotels, spas and great little bars. Elle Detailed, carefully researched guides. Daily Mail Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city. The Guardian In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks. The New York Times Concentrating on both well-known and more obeat European destinations, In Your Pockets guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated. The Independent The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. The Irish Times With so many European cities now within easy range, this website is a (literally) priceless rst stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print o as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks. The Times In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publishers website. Sueddeutsche Zeitung The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. They have become a European publishing phenomenon. International Herald Tribune 34 Cagliari In Your Pocket OTTicO PeiReTTi QB-3/4, via Roma 107, tel. (+39) 070 66 31 61, fpeiretti@tiscali.it. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Abba, via C-2 Alagon, via C-2 Alfieri, via C-1 Alghero, via C-2 Amat, via D-2 Amendola, piazza C-3/4 Anfiteatro, via B-2 Angioy, via B-3 Angius, via D-1 Annunziata, piazza A-3 Ariosto, via C-1 Arquer, via C-3 Arsenale, piazza B-2 Asproni, via A-3 Azuni, via B-3 Bacaredda, via B/C-1/2 Bainsizza, via A-2 Barcellona, via B-3/4 Barone Rossi, via C/D-3 Basilicata, via A-1 Baylle, via B-3/4 Bellini, via C-1 Belvedere, via B-2 Boito, via C/D-1 Bonaria, piazza D-3/4 Bonaria, viale C-3/4/D-3/4 Bosa, via B/C-2 Bottego, via D-3/4 Buon Cammino, viale A/B-2 Buragna, via B-3 Caboni, via D-2/3 Cammino Nuovo, via B-2/3 Campidano, via C-4 Canelles, via B-2/3/C-3 Canepa, via D-1 Cao di San Marco, via B/C-1 Caprera, via A-3 Carboni Boi, via D-2 Carbonia, via C-3 Carducci, via C-1/2 Carlo Alberto, piazza B-2/3 Carlo Felice, largo B-3 Carloforte, via A-3 Carrara, via D-2 Carso, via A-2 Catalani, via C/D-1 Cavour, via B/C-3 Cherubini, via C/D-2 Cima, via B-3 Cimarosa, via C-2/D-1/2 Cimitero, piazza D-3 Cimitero, viale D-3 Cino da Pistoia, via C-1 Cocco Ortu, via C-1 Collegio, via C-3 Collegio, vico B/C-3 Colombo, viale C/D-4 Concezione, via B-3/4/C-3/4 Corelli, via C-1 Corte d'Appello, via B-2/3 Costa, via B/C-1 Costituzione, piazza C-3 Crispi, via B-3 Cugia, via D-2 Dalmazia, via A-1 Dante, via C-1/2/D-2/3 d'Armi, piazza A-1 De Gasperi, piazza C-3 De Gioannis, via D-2/3 De Magistris, via A-3 Deffenu, piazza C-4 dei Pisani, via C-3 del Carmine, piazza B-3 Deledda, via C-2/3/D-2 Dess, largo B-2 Dettori, piazza B-3 Dettori, via B-3 Don Bosco, via A-2 Donizetti, via C-1/2/D-1 Duomo, via B-3 Einaudi, via C-2 Eleonora d'Arborea, via C-3 Fadda, via D-2 Fais, via C/D-2 Fara, via B-2/3 Farina, via C-2 Fiume, via B-2 Foscolo, via C-1 Fossario, via B/C-3 Fra' Nicola da Gesturi, via A/B-2 G. Benedetta, via B-1 Gallura, via C-3 Garavetti, via D-1/2 Garibaldi, piazza C-2 Garibaldi, via C-2/3 Gemelli, via D-2 Gennari, largo D-1 Genovesi, via B-2/3 Gianturco, via D-2/3 Giardini Pubblici, via A-1/2/B-1 Giardini, via B-1/2 Goceano, via C/D-3 Gramsci, piazza C-3 Ichnusa, piazza C-3 Iglesias, via C-3 Indipendenza, piazza B-2 Irpinia, piazza B-1 Istria, via A-1 Kennedy, piazza B-1 La Maddalena, via B-3 La Plaia, viale A/B-4 La Vega, via B-1 Lai, via C-1 Lamarmora, via B-2/3 Lanusei, via C-3 Lazio, via A-1 Lepanto, via C-3/4 Liguria, via A/B-1 Logudoro, via C/D-3 Lombardia, via A-1 Macomer, via C-2 Malta, via A/B-3 Mameli, via A/B-3 Manno, via B-3

Street register
Manzoni, via C-1/2 Marche, via B-1 Marghinotti, piazza C-3 Marini, via D-2 Martiri, piazza B/C-3 Martiri, via B-2 Matteotti, piazza B-4 Mazzini, via B/C-3 Mercato Vecchio, via B-3 Merello I, vico A-2 Merello, viale A-1/2/3 Michelangelo, piazza C-1 Mille, via B-3/4 Molise, via A-1 Monti, via C-1/2 Napoli, via B-3/4 Negri, via C/D-2 Nicolodi, via A-1/2 Nuoro, via C/D-3 Oristano, via C-3 Oslavia, via A-2 Ospedale, via B-2/3 Ozieri, via B/C-2 Pacinotti, via C-1 Paganini, via D-1 Pais, via B/C-1 Palazzo, piazza B-2 Palomba, via D-2 Paoli, via C-1/2 Pascoli, via C-1 Perdixedda, via A-4 Pergolesi, via C/D-1 Pessina, via D-2 Petrarca, via C-1 Piccioni, via C-3 Piemonte, via A/B-1 Pierluigi da Palestrina, via C/D-1 Pitzolo, via C-2 Pola, via A-3 Ponchielli, via D-1 Porcell, via B-2 Porcile, via C-3/4 Porto Scalas, via B-3 Principe Amedeo, via B/C-3 Puccini, via C-1/2/D-1/2 Pula, via A-4 Regina Elena, viale B-2/3/C-2/3 Regina Margherita, piazza C-3 Regina Margherita, viale C-3/4 Repubblica, piazza C/D-2 Riva di Ponente, via A/B-4 Roma, via A/B-3/4/C-4 Rossini, via C-1/2 Salaris, via B/C-1 Salento, piazza B-1 San Benedetto, piazza C-1 San Benedetto, via C-1 San Cosimo, piazza C/D-3 San Domenico, piazza C-2 San Domenico, via C-2 San Giacomo, piazza C-3 San Giacomo, via B/C-2 San Giorgio, via B-2 San Giovanni, via B-1/2/C-2/3 San Lucifero, via C/D-3 San Mauro, via B-1/2 San Paolo, via A-4 San Rocco, piazza B/C-1 San Rocco, via B-1 San Saturnino, via B-1/2 San Vetrano, via B-1 San Vincenzo, viale A/B-1/2 Sanjust, via D-1 Sanna Randaccio, via D-1/2 Santa Croce, via B-2/3 Santa Margherita, via B-2/3 Santa Restituta, via B-2/3 Sant'Agostino, via B-4 Sant'Alenikedda, via B/C-1 Sant'Efisio, via B-2/3 Sant'Eulalia, via B-3 Sant'Eusebio, via C-2/3/D-3 Sant'Ignazio, via A-2/3/B-3 Sardegna, via B-3 Sassari, via B-3/4 Satta, via C-2 Savoia, via B-3 Scano, via D-1/2 Sicilia, via B-3 Siotto Pintor, via B-2/3 Sonnino, via C-2/3/4 Spano, via B-3 Stazione Vecchia, via C-3/4 Stretta, via B-2/3 Sulis, via C-3 Tasso, via C-1 Tempio, via C-2 Tigellio, via A-3 Tiziano, via C-1 Todde, via C-1 Tola, via C-2 Torino, via C-3 Toscana, via A/B-1 Trentino, via A-1 Trento, via A-3 Trieste, viale A/B-3 Tristani, piazza B-1 Tristani, via B-1 Tuveri, via D-1/2 Umbria, via A-1 Universit, via B-3 Verdi, via C/D-1 Vittorio Emanuele II, corso A/B-3 Vittorio Veneto, via A-2 XX Settembre, via C-3 XXIV Maggio, via C-2 Yenne, piazza B-3

PaRapHaRmaCiEs
LOFFicina della SalUTe This parapharmacy is not just for aches and pains. Venture inside and you wont leave empty handed. It has a vast selection of soothing cures as well as herbal and homeopathic treatments, but also sun creams, body lotions and cosmetics. Why not spoil yourself with a facial scrub or anti-ageing treatments. The expert, English speaking staff will advise you on your purchases and will also help you find the perfect gift to take back home.QB-3, via Angioy 99/101, tel. (+39) 070 311 01 22, off.salute@gmail.com. Open 11:00 18:00. Closed Mon. A

PHoTo sERViCE
PhOTO SeRViceQD-2, via Tuveri 14/B, M Repubblica, tel. (+39) 070 40 33 09. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

SHoE REpaiRs
CalZOleRia di FabRiZiO ATZeniQD-2, via Tuveri 62, tel. (+39) 348 352 07 17. Open 07:30 - 13:00, 15:30 20:00. Closed Sun. DaVide LeccaQD-1, via Cimarosa 124, M Gennari, tel. (+39) 347 348 30 57. Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

SpoRTs & FiTNEss ClUbs

AThlOn ClUbQD-2, via Degioannis 5, tel. (+39) 070 34 40 41, athlon.club@tiscali.it, www.athlonsport.it. Open 07:00 - 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. FORmakalaRisQD-3, via Caboni 7, tel. (+39) 070 30 78 32/(+39) 070 204 42 85, www.formakalaris.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

SwimmiNG Pools
AcQUasPORTQG-3, viale Diaz 227, tel. (+39) 070 30 70 04/(+39) 070 34 37 51, info@piscineacquasport.it, www.piscineacquasport.it. Open 07:00 - 16:00, 18:15 - 21:15, Tue, Thu 09:15 - 16:00, 18:15 - 21:15, Sat 09:15 13:00. Closed Sun.

TENNis CoURTs
Tennis ClUb CagliaRi Hosted the 2013 Fed Cup Final.QD-1, via Gemelli 2, tel. (+39) 070 49 26 47/(+39) 345 437 36 20, segreteria@asdtennisclubcagliari.it, www. asdtennisclubcagliari.it. Open 07:00 - 23:00. cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Summer - Autumn 2014

35

Index
4 Mori 12 A&R Bundes Jack 13 Acquasport 34 Air Berlin 27 Air One 27 Alitalia 27 Almea 13 Antica Residenza Marina di Castello 13 Athlon Club 34 Austrian Airlines 27 Avis (airport) 28 Avis (city) 28 Baby in Giardino 33 Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria (Basilica di Nostra Signora di Bonaria) 26 Basilica of St Saturnin (Basilica di San Saturnino) 25 Basilica of the Holy Cross (Basilica di Santa Croce) 19 Bicincitta 27 Bobocono 15 Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico) 24 Brussels Airlines 27 Bus Station (Stazione ARST) 5 Caesars 11 Caf Barcellona 17 Caff dellElfo 18 Caff Libarium 18 Cagliari Hostel Marina 13 Cagliari University Library (Biblioteca Universitaria) 33 Cagliari-Elmas Airport 5 Calamosca 12 Calzoleria di Fabrizio Atzeni 34 Capra 33 Cathedral Museum (Museo del Duomo) 19 Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta) 19 Cave of the Viper (Grotta della Vipera) 26 Centro Odontoiatrico Sardo Baire 33 Chatterbox 33 Choco & Tea 17 City Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Comunale d'Arte Moderna) 25 City Tour Cagliari 27 CTM Point Piazza Matteotti 27 CTM Point Viale Trieste 27 Cut&Go! Umisex 33 Davide Lecca 34 Delizie di Sardegna 31 Desogus 33 Due Colonne 12 EasyJet 27 Elephant Tower (Torre dellElefante) 19 Elizaveth 13 Etihad Regional 27 Europcar (airport) 28 Europcar (city) 28 EXM 25 Fior di Loto 13 Formakalaris 34 Forte Village 11 Fratelli Binelli 33 Germanwings 27 Happy Baby Asilo Nido in Inglese 33 Hertz (airport) 28 Hertz (city) 28 Holiday Inn Cagliari 11 Hostaria Sa Osa 14 House of Tigellius (Villa di Tigellio) 24 Idea Hotel Cagliari Santa Maria 12 Il Tocco degli Angeli 33 Indoor Promenade (Passeggiata Coperta) 19 Infopoint Aeroporto Elmas 7 Infopoint Molo Sanit 7 Italia 12 L'Isola che Vorrei 27 LOfficina della Salute 34 La Grotta 15 La Paillote 18 La Rinascente 30 La Terrazza 13 Lavasecco Pony 33 Lavasecco San Giorgio 33 Lazaret (Lazzaretto) 26 Le Lavanderie del Corso 33 Le Patate & Co. 14 Linea Estetica SEM 33 Livingstone 13 Lord Nelson 15 Loredana Mandas 31 Lufthansa 27 Maggiore (airport) 28 Maggiore (city) 28 Man.Gia. Senza Glutine 16 Marina di Portus Karalis 5 Martinellis 16 MEM Mediateca del Mediterraneo 33 Mercato di Santa Chiara 30 Mercato San Benedetto 30 Meridiana 27 Metrocagliari 29 Minoan Air 27 Miramare 11 Mojito 18 Molentargius Saline Park (Parco Naturale Regionale Molentargius Saline) 26 Museum of Siamese Art (Museo dArte Siamese Stefano Cardu) 21 Naga 30 National Archaeological Museum (Museo Archeologico Nazionale) 22 National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale) 22 Old Square Irish Pub 18 Old Town Hall (Antico Palazzo di Citt) 20 Opera House (Teatro Lirico di Cagliari) 10 Ospedale Brotzu 6 Ospedale Civile San Giovanni di Dio 6 Ospedale Marino 6 Ottica Cosentino 33 Ottica Gasperini 33 Ottico Peiretti 33 Panetteria di Susanna Sorchi 31 Panorama 12 Photo Service 34 Piazza Yenne 24 Poetto beach 26 Pullman Timi Ama Sardegna11 Radio Taxi 4 Mori 29 Radio Taxi Rossobl 29 Regina Margherita 12 Ricciolo 33 Ritual 18 Roman Amphitheatre (Anfiteatro romano) 24 Royal Palace (Palazzo Regio) 20 Ryanair 27 Saint Remy Rampart (Bastione Saint Remy) 20 San Domenico 17 Sardegna 12 Sardinia Tourist Guide 29 Sardinya 28 SAS Scandinavian Airlines 27 Sixt 28 St Annes Church (Chiesa di SantAnna) 24 St Augustines Church (Chiesa di SantAgostino) 23 St Eulalias Church, archaeological site and Treasure Museum (Chiesa di SantEulalia, area archeologica e Museo del Tesoro) 23 St Jamess Church (Chiesa di San Giacomo) 24 St Michael Castle (Castello di San Michele) 26 St Michael's Church (Chiesa di San Michele) 25 St Pancras Tower (Torre di San Pancrazio) 21 St Restituta's Crypt (Cripta di Santa Restituta) 24 Stefano Scalas 27 Studio Dentistico Associato Caruso 33 Studio Odontoiatrico Associato Falconi 33 Su Cuile 14 T Hotel 11 Teatro Civico di Castello 10 Tennis Club Cagliari 34 The Ghetto (Centro Comunale dArte e Cultura Il Ghetto) 21 Tirrenia 5 Train Station (Stazione ferroviaria) 5 Trenino Cagliaritano 27 University and Old College (Palazzo dell'Universit ed ex Seminario) 21 Vai che ce n' di pi 16 Via Roma and Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale) 23 Volotea 27 Vueling 27 Wax Anatomical Models Museum (Museo delle Cere Anatomiche Clemente Susini) 22 X-MEM 7 Zaza doner kebab 14

42 Cagliari In Your Pocket

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