Contents

clupr.r r0 QuLrrN.
FORCNORD PREhcr . . ......... .. .. .rri ..

rot

CEm\6 rHr Mosr uoM THrs oo(. .... B

Chaprerrr-Sr!ft1Nc ..22e
lfi

chaprcr l

G^l[RrNc...3

ckpr.r 7 S oc(Nc.. rrt

. opposile Eds. cRrhfti'g Chaprer2-SETRRTNG ..r9

urNc DARrs. .. .. ..267

slPPrE\rENr RYFuLNrss MiKr_G R!.tsl|l . cdh&ld shsh Edged t. ]lu . ciLh(d Double Edscd Rulll.

M'xEp M^--'rur ^IDN5 -coMBrr.'AnoNs

M^(Nc FLorN.Es

67 chiprrg-{orDrNc .. ..la7

APP!NDIX

-MrKNc

GoDcrs. .. .. .. 31

. Hard,s$! Cord.dQundrg . udrines.{n codtd auirdng I N D . X .... . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . r 0 4

Controlled Crushing

A R T $ f * . ir

f Gathenng
c i r r ' d n g M e r h o d s . . . . .....l.

GATHERTNG

BAsrcs
G.1TI'EIINGMrlrioDs

luomdiccnh.nng .. ..

sRb'lL'4 cdhEedsdrctng..6 rhrousLchannelsH,trd, milure, itrlomad!. rnd onc kind oI ct s!. gilne'ng ar nanda.d.stfth.d
F r t L n g . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Run.d Eds.

*ine irc sPelhxy qriarions d'ar Thud bscd h,ndrnd nachine edhedDsinvorvs rwopioaduits: (1) rd'lhins erc$ rh. dsigmrd cdg.dr rhcfihn. thinrlr.sm
allo$lDei(2) puljng d! lnE loo*

garhd'ng 8alhdins.. ... . .... ll

'hEd dDslnu un*und fidh rh. .M or LhcnikhiDg winr ont hand $r,ilc unn8 ,heo,ns hrnd ro push therabn.nb,bdf,long rhhdly hdd rlread Th. spesny oi d.nsnt of ,r. eDi.rords c&d by r qi$ gdnubg. h.ombharioD {hih G 'hc nnoum and d$in or li.Iold! libcckd tron rhr nirdrs. LmB nrd$ '13h'\ salnqd nad 8orJ,-ii8 dQ.nds on nn, n'ig sdtrhs B<rEr svirg dud n vuhdrblcrobicakundqh sion,u* doubl.dor exh-shrs rhrad i! th rcdt. ltrchdr ln( nd snrh rlh a sood-siz.d tTor Rr
Note, rhis chapd b.gins \dh

snhdns.. ..

Msrcs. indn.r.d byr 8ny band

Lo$rd uDd@ad dr i.t.vant

Mqd gath.nry. dr"* Gt fabh. up dnb dc 'hrcad si,,sh ol ofr bw $m runningnnch6 (Fis. l l)

tr \i
lr!]r].dlgil]rtriri].]tr{.,f , ,! r! ,![ L]fhrru! ,ru! rr! qhnL

itT'.

arowances: ta) Nd.b ,D s#r atawanees n ad2rce tb) htq

pl

ih.rarLh!

f ) r rh o d

uri{&

birnrrrr

(34'n

rfr

L r n t r $ r u s r ' r t L ) ll u r r t r ! i'rl nx &!

ru nu (FLr r 3) ,!sd |n rrbn.

LN.trIn !\rs)

lLr o{dtr rt Tr,! rurLcs ! {trl1

,1,.,;. F

0 r I 0 ! ! $ B

ebsbseqna|Ly3e]ned!.dch

Sr4Bruzr\6 (;4r Hrfifi)

L!lg!DlLl'!|,i,I]l![Ll(!lu

nrs, tn rhr bhirtrs I Lrl j. ui!

wh l2) eds$rbhhe

aDd tb) bhd.

Ftsln2eah'lirgskbl,edb'3 bbnc extenstn anada b) wth aD !" r/ouadihtr n6 luqDtr.t !r iJDnr trr,aJ.J!bL n ft!o !I lsrr rtdfLg L l+j

ori n{ir

mlhurr ba[r
rr 0,i ioir iiqr5btsh/@d () Mr T thedn.h lrchrnq rtdder

,fr3 I rr)

r.iddrr

r\lrtrN(

uLtr' 1r) {\

la) sthd3tibh an ,cdseqalreted dr nachh,F trching tb)FrtE ar edse rn.Is u ijj !{ilD. (L] dl:)

Flutin8is a hand.a0pliqu. r!ch. groovg heNen naDdiru fol,ls.

T[. rurLd.ng. is r deordr, ldgr hlt finish rhesarhftd to.

$hc! r{ {n.hh8 Lob. g h*d labnr! edge rhe!.ip or tubr!

Lh. rrbft on 'n. $nid dl .quily k.d runninsnirdrs lthe lar8{ 'nur.) D6ribuL.'h. ga'hds

bre*s 'nLda ntu rftd sdlo bg TonRlnLi:r( L) \!rh rlreldBc or ri .xrnsion dipnd berqrh 'he CIh g .ins sn.hs. rh$ .o!$ them ndt h tht

rh dgr dr.h *vd,l rlrsds ol dr lrbn. Ln$. n&dlc lidbrc tub bhs n threush ourlheon rhe rh. rduodn'dn Ding(hrn{dl.$in ueGee(b) Fis r-ra) Rlmove in 'he g{hd4 'hdd whd .ll 'h. Aninnsiblc nan nndclin iar i,3 rhl .onroG8rdEi,8 Lefor ir 'hr ri'bln r sh md srhll}l i p*ML *r) readi.s r]t sarlFcd cdgc sion A lull &lg. ro .ds. nry nika qhil! fqinsbro z curour dre rndr I rourddion 1Fjs. i4 r.rt) w[or ft ta]c oLlibnc addcdbr, u$ Penanedn,y is uodEnrbh. , ru'ros 'hich canberomNay h.idr A fa.hg fdr riul.{dse ryFsn.cdsc ,nd all-sids snhq. hs nftd rull dg.ro{dst ltiigs Fs t15 la) hgel4t2ed 3''y tat a eatturedswa lb) ||hichh sbyed A! iNrtbletadrF r r rhhe srhere,l ed!e.s$n ro rhesdhred i+L si'rs bgt 'q i rarhs, whdr

appliqr or bpillh

lopnrdri,* ea'hdiu tln.d rLtcL (r) s! a rar ofhpe b Lhc bkk.r 'lE srhenrs 5drch6 lhdndng rh. srth.Alordcldmlkdl.d[|mnl G) ss r dtco'nne nry oIlibbon. hp, or hGid or bP oI rhc s {hsnnchB h ftri' (F1g I 17). lReI{ b Ed$ finEh,ie lor

Fs 1.t6 l4 P*athcins skhitiv

i@ a saMd edse (b)Gathercd edqea|a|abfu.]dedkd|aa laaetszd bchs betatelc) tuhirs tbht tide autrftush a stash tha in

FEl17sladl2ing3fufudedqe: (a) wth tu .xtensiarstipped uhder n*|h|hssarnsfuhedga|heinq srbh$. (b)wk a b@ han'tsewn b |hebackal|hega|heirqstbh6 (c) wrh a bpe edc*uched aEt the

rh an d rrhdnh;

hfk

hrir rorr! snbocd.rnd r\&r au.

'I

F9 t 1e ta) Ftnwhe a p'ry oath. e|ed2p]j]quiwrhfub|.rads

]!L](uld.iPclnudm]1.|

SNGLE-EDGE
GATHFRlNG

"aa'nenrs Me'nods"o! page l).

t. subiln. fte 3ltllednB (rcrei!o .smbnrfe 6athd.d sfi .hn's

Norls & YARrArroNs

PRocrDrrxEs
r. Drttdc how muth fuuns llr &bdc brlo$ fte sarhsededse shNrd disPray.-lisht. nodq. nnr Ior tnc Ea'neEd edgero 6rihdc fteleigrhor ung{h rh. dsird rullDcsin the srheFd rabn., huhlply fi. hE r f*urchrnl bl rhcxnounr indr cd in d. Iolloving cha :
rlc 5En&!d fE siDsle.edge galhen4 is "cu( nlch. and g h.r o! 'ne {cigh'gdn of worn f.cb n.i skbildc hodonaly end

nnish(' Al'. \rirchins on die

.ft$gfh G piddnd ovd fl.l

ins on Ac lcncd'gnf bru$ ln. Iolls rcl6.d rrcm crcss8Ei! sarh.

Fiog}2agnqedh-n)''r1ai

fol& Ibn lcnerhsnbg,ti.rbg.'

rig,4'sine]dga7ah.rngBd. ahB (a)Fatu re@se tun adtalb) s@r, sa'n 6d.ds.dtDed at an4et . lc) statahl;@th*d edsesbhirat b tuNe (d)stdi6'h,

Drup.A sinq,-.d* Eathrnnz .xrends rs adFced.dg6 of , b

lqdmd pr.. orrib.. Aslie!trIr, tt. n16.d lolds dnp. tlMid dr cmd. and 'l]. no.dns d8e. sith-

dredih6s

- 0ai@!r i1+no'o

As ft. difierence bdweendre lcnstf,dl r fibfu gd&rl to n*ch ftar kr8d incft66. thr

nn,ghl[,4inc tol&, d.scrndsto . poi G4 (a) in Fi8 I l0). anglcdghrr or frdd lhin rhc ods in,l rngleaheBrh. .urc of $c ,lEprns and$c lm$h ol dc poinr. Fat @tbw.a singL4d9 Edtn enig, rhegrneFd edgrkea r6m lh. staighr and ho*onel whnr rchinin3 , noadq alse rh* t)pl6 dc. my bc *bilL.d b diht trp or dom, rnd, b.csN. of i6 ficfr
bilitytocuNeo!anglew]lena sarighr. g,rh.nd .dg. k shhtlLed al.6ed lron rh. .ontourd nebiIttig d*p.n and $vell, anl the silhoudte or tht notung .dge fthrs

srbili:ins a nBishr. sain<cd edseb dip in a .uNe nrcth6 {old5@' orthe tro n3rdgc, norc so a lhc d.pd ol |hc curc inse6. $, unl$ O) rhehbri. isl.ng|hy lu.ishr dd*n (sn |h. cdhcdn8, or (2) the sitl.ning silhoudte oI Ihnm'tn3dge15@dd{Edb .deln& G< G) tn Ftg l 20). lBrsd or rh. salneftd44r hser meanne , !s rh. slhouck oI rhe flo hg edgeas rhe Eia 1.nsd of ungdhmd frbric n.cdcd to rrsduce nE dsird fuun*s in
aflottlgldgha$tngf@Eoi'

l.Dsrhfor rh. ursdrrcd Lbric, .nd cur$e hhnc.rr nec.$ary pi.rt rh.fibi. ro r.hrde thr Divi le rhealse 6 h8*hqed and m,ik lh. divr0B bctwen

wh.n ,n ipplicdion fttiuns s {nighr. on-gnin, nortins cd8c virh rhcd*iEd fullis b,ngtnS tdmourtd gdhenng tds. dc trbn. needs be cut fmn a pruern to O) M*e a Iull-siE pnrn. n'n' shpr rh. sdh.rt,l fabric is ro nrch (2) sbsh a @P) or inat pi. un tnb rdPs, .udn8 in d. dn.t rion thr fordssin hmg (l) Trp.

G.c (b) h FB l-20).s'EEh'mins 'h. nd'ins drge 6Eiqs by

rhc {op5 b rndhs nic( oL pip.i rDi.id rpiiL b ni.kh our rhe rr rn ' :dd rrr dsn d lrlllEs:fkrFrhedos ro tu hlgd .dgc. ,+) conn.ditrg dc s.oaErd nnlI q hrch beom6 rrr pa(sn tor dc hbn. Lo bc g{htrtd v idionl

'n| rol& rdBrd froin ih sithcred .dg. (F g. I 1l).Aildr$aE rlloMn.c b r fin,1pa,rh FonPPlicanons so r.,. ,rrat rn ts inp tutir, i.d!c rhe hller

$lc sqle Io! prEn

drathg pur

not o! llt $rcd doND sa&qDsFnmmdapply'hd.md'

sr4r.dr4r?.z/ge 8drrrlg do6tr har a nortnecdgr rhe

drmrnndnrrfoldsftLr6.d rbn &c srhsr,g {n.hs dinbnl and drs rrparn tuoppdst..dgc{hich 5nrcrhed smoo and$cd ni ro oainutu a naqrhishl, sb]d 'h. sids b.gin ro ddg the ner.d .dsc ou oI :ltnncnr. rdo ouch c{h&,!8dn roc r !ry.d.dgr naledjr a .urv. lh{ociErcs,lik. .u'otrl'na rouiddion. oppsft thr .ds. rjghdygrhrftd. do*s rtr RJkr rrom r.ndsl poim-prc. lidd rhr vd,h of In d). cquL ,bE Ediusot rhcdrtul,. curour. Lr$ 'n,i 'hc ndiutssn opuirs sunonndtdhy satneF:Mon l}rn 'h! ndiE-rh. gdhriig dos bui FDlln6 muldplirsfrlhs(h rddrron 10a buirdupot ri.ft/ dtr.{r'sel gd1rrdtr8bmus rtr ungdhered .d3. ol oneds n,biria thc sathqcd .d8c of d. idr 'ic. rh. g{h.Ed .+e of hbh. nrip *l is scm ro rheuDsrhned cdg. or nnP *r; sdhdcd ricr $ is *wn rd ftc ung{hercd otfti eds. !l ?ndso on Ekh rifl inc(6s rhclensd of ft salhdcd cdsefor lLc n.x' irt (FE.l 2r).lr lhr lishhs or LhcgrhFins is also irqea3l lor suftinvc ri.F. luu Dca eir iro*s crfus$nrl}
Figl2lslasEad.eead@b|r dQ||ingh|MtadgawdMa dnt@red adoa:la) ared d tu (a) s6hed hta tu.hh tti6 patln (c) a'*tirc @titu Nhnh tEtd b

appNfuedgehEhEs|ayed|lal and stai4hL (b) ruba stibhad inb a

Fs 1e2 la)cathine rtud byhe

ered. rubetuyedoE;, isit @

Frs t23 FM tbhty sat\sed st@'hg at thebp, utness tft@4

ghdudlybddQnabaly\hfi@lh.

qG jop rn ( nnn)ronr[.

e'rq: la) one har at htqel Faren A lb) .|ashed br hised at the @o sEedqebrredadar|dded e'par$d edse re dtawn (c)Paten .edqa|hd.wh$qJreEd,vlmbh

I i
i

Opposrrp-Enct
GATHERING
made sna trwhen (6hed omo

'abrcbeiwei6eg.derededs*

PRocEDURES
ro g c 'lr oppdrirt ed8s oI a hns'h ot faLnicadip, $e Ploedtrftsd.slnbdIol.shglt.Jg.

NorEs r VARTATToN5
dpposi.edsen:biltin8 ro archor borr, grln{Ed cdss ntd Mlruh 'lrc,duscdloLdi h ! dn(nonal lords lan oovc nraigtl 5d*!cn rhc pur. 0dhr. or skN: rhe ronnz rion dfrhe {u I rd tokLr rh{ ar l$ddld bd!.en rhesdhd.d Ldls * rht pinrl-. desisr foc$ dl whd' dPP6ik snh.red elgs dlnpd folds in b.N{n !&q .lnP. or Purr Ftr d,7p.J opPdi.. .ds. gartrri{ rh( ErE$d lotds tnoush rd door or drL dri \sishr N m $r s.rhrEd ds* ii. !ih. licd dGfl bgtlh& (Ft r-2r. Fq Pufed owstu 4e e!a9ng. lrt lol tohard ber\tm rk gxln. trcd edss nB, bl Eridldy shon as ,tuy G enrcn d'. garhcadrds* of I rwo$ nnP of hbn. hn*d or dnPing. rh. rords,bsr wvrld brEkins up rnb $irriry rktgB 'd psk (Ft r 16).rhrdoPd or purld .Jrd so\* Nort p@reun..d a5rhenry btunes $rallc !nhk.

Fgl,6snipo|kh.g2beQdan c'p6lb6d9es'slabizedlaa3E\

Ii6 dr Idkls hk ! dnsorat retx rbEhif $nh ,h. e46 Afr. nir) ri:lng,hcLft.dg. br{ids 'h. b\ gadrufs n(ches ro : nar pdl lhe rrshredg. down$2rdfo(rtu11f beIoEbAring 'hL sdhred alg. ro oi.h r|r dgr r, r suid.line 'fulNldon lh nq (83 r.,7)

Fig127,opp@ib.ad@galhe,ia

ctr1t.? aPp6k ds. udt]jd6s Drsdtrenngasgm{lron sid. on or 'he fihnc nLip rish'ly th. hns .trrvd.Lft f$Dr d'rtdlvdppo. (G{ sir rishrly ourid. cuN), aM sbhrlhg $. ds$ eodinstf

&!FnTpos {u.suLherins. p''Ilrdopr$iL.eds.garh|rns b. on

Flg'13o|]sing|he3lashand. edg..ga|h6|irpafuhatnbe ga|heredMonaneedge|h4|he ohe|andsla|d|aadanob' Ev.n.ulat owBtut tdE gdlh?r ii3, c cn& of a fabricrnp *e i.sid. cdg. nccdsvay rghr garh, 4hson rarye nitchs (th.l,qe tht nn.ha, 'he sEallrthc (nt,1 op.nins)Th. oppolne .dgt-rh. outide of rhe ctclFis l,gh y nrip.rtr b. $ sed rhe sathccd m,nipulft.drnd a n4, qheel-lik. 6 ddemircd b),rllc,ndmrol s:rhsine on th. oubide edse. srh hrv dep fords,.ollkEd 1rcurd a cminr axis, lhd dimh Lh a lrn ndDre1owaid rhe (rjs 1 29).ro sathq outr edsc 'hr ouErcdsc, srip nur b. $c ronsd rhrn rhecircunfercnrt or .dg. vir cwruilly br shbilued rn.. Gr.lnleErce = dh,ndq x I r4) as$c hrgd n.aslrem.nr *hn srimarjDg r.4'h leedd rh. b g{hcr rhe ourt! cdg. a$ip a! aid. * r hdtrs or $e immdsi dEuL,rourrint g,,hs rLr wir 'hzn'h. idi$ oI 'he inEnded cir
QbrourLinr. qho SdhdEd o! oppGft edss. vill d.vatr tn rh whcn none ol rh6r fit rh. str i, noD,dnft sla+{!d{pBd pdtrhs tor rh. oppGidrdg. g4rrerins. Iinnions ol. hlsd sh,pecoveEd wtrh rold5 thar -os Ircn I ds{ly gdmd edg. b , ushrly g*htfttl edse (Fig. I 30), oi , hrsd sb4r lL u unu$a| ouinc covclcd viln loldi thar .s$ rrcm edgero

Ard 5ubiliing rh. grinmd .dc6 tn a nnishal mznn.i rmns. *rcthms rnd phtug rn. .dg6 b , padded bdrd iI n*ded srsn wnh ,n ion herdabov. th gnhcins allowb .odlandd4 brfoc

.d8e(ris I rr), nr.d Pnms sl'sh a copyot Ge elcd shlpc $B'stu a.b$ Ircn edgero cdgein rh. diftcrion or ,hefordsr'PErd 'nePieslpandl{DlndpteoI p{pci to .nrr3e rheedgs tor $rh ns outtinc rharfib h d. 3prt6 Add n,r alloMncs afti dnfting

= ilrt
'l

fi**
\ /:.

,.:."---"-. \,-:

s.\1";;7

]%._:

: il:

r:..-,d..-*1

1,r'.;$$
i

ALL-SIDES GATHERINc

2, Gahg a|l Jou'\il th. cdg!or fab. nc lur lDm rh sarknng F\({!, mdlq fte gathend lctrgrlr ber!(n turh6 or iid6 Lothe Itn$h betr\en ftLRrdiokha q suy lur or oudhedfrerndrerF smlr (ndd ro crdNins

l,rfi hsd a subltl or hxnil. sids slhfhs Lo,n drct.s

hui.h.d srhrE on lourdinonfalr oul rhebundled hbn. rbor. ,h. , $'heE b Dak purlrrd lools soDrdn4 hk. r qud,r rodnoot (Fi8 r ], Aru rrnrhssrLgh,l) l$s 'haron.hnlir ongin.lc'rtu

PRocEDr,rRrs
r. sd.d ,irgq shaP6 $ih sinph. N.ompl,otrd orri!6 ro dmti o all-sidc sadu.J p rn nn Fn byxn {Lualanou{ nl bhadrtrl*ot rumb cdixr l h.rgh, for Lhc irnftd rulncs rnd.nlirgr by 'n rFourr G{ Fis r r2). Dividtrh. .(rved ino lrrllcs ,nJ ']uan6. mark Diudelons *Dishr cds.srh Prkm virh .onp.hbl' sraccd

3. shbiltt thc 8a'hocd edgs ,nd 5haP.. choonng Nrhdd rhd a srns ft i equn.nd6 or Lhr iPpliqdonGcfero.subnliv Gnh.nd nn.hhs on Page 6)

NorEs & VARrafioNs

rhc nrndrid fdrall sid6 sdh dLngis , {une 8arrr.rtd 10I snxll.rsquaE, olrlsdhd.d rd an r smrll.rohl. a ci(1. grhered to rh*.or, Nirh,ncds6 ndtr:cJ rrrsiliq ol dr tabrn 'hd billo$ trp benEnrrr .&cs a prn df rhr appsldfan sids srheri|s An :ll sids silh.ed aPILi on rcds Frtuwhs E o unEul rljhd roilsid6 sdhcing,uiriins nec dh and 'ln*d ro .orrrp* rhEpulq ummd) folds dLibcurl!Fu. Dwi,u .dnv&s rhebaloorins hb ic besftn rh. {,b ned cdss inb i mac.riL.rc1il dlridEs and (rds ro.Furto$rry on lx8c9)

W)

9e
Thcrun.d rtrrrdds lhePuf corcpr a *ep turrn c.nr hc pufi !n(re insid. r hl8q .tutc of rabr!.nn.h oi rbeourtiiE otrht p{fl dnk and8i,her findins rh3 grhe6Ld\r*n,hEromcard rt( Pur roI louMn,n (Fi: r,r4)

b|a|lfubpanddawfuldesb ebp ftu nusltered jnctid.s

I
sh s heringd6dib6 .h rvc6. sd oI pufl sdh{in8 shtn n beohA lie nglt side Dinple by lik poin6suroundcd nli6s rh. pufis Tne ft. Ioldsreplace cinultr ontlbs on the backol rh. rabtu an'l pmeed 6 dcdb.d ro! pnfg{hnns roi Pi.ned nir grftedn3" $. dnplG exPud hro einc rencils harEciilrs * 1161 Nice 6 la4. tn dhdc 6 e hr gd opoings rrd g*h.rlng cur our on rhccinlrr oulljra tr*ed on $. noft ot rh. ribic. wnh r senry sE ,llovrnce cliPp.dand Nrnedundd vbil. si!9, gnthq pnll.d dsht {odnd x rmovabL. lire seuse , Pcncilor dorel Us nrcls ftrcsd andscue I sdl ertd sdicbinssell to dtd rutuE FE Fur gdh.ring and i6 vira rio6. rh. $nncdbs roLcrnk6.d by th. s*hainsh<omt longd 6 inq66. ind depd s rhE.rcks

Ma$d rund pulE citnd dt covcng. ol liillr run6 aM nGrrcd putrsro n r@ denne'lby the Nnber or rumcdpufls rbchcd 'd rherolndation The kiclraud 30.lG.ly $a. djadr rdn.'l e'ls6 rc roRd npwid rh DI' ned Plfi on r hE snug8k tnc pufi iBid. r lulk am. ni*d nom e cushiondlgrlh6. outliG ,botrt .vo corc.ntrn cncb sPa.ed (l.rd),Fn, od.d insidtI ,a" l,rgq circleof hbn.. M& wo rhradld ru.dl.s, srith on rhedu! ItG. calhd bolh Iw5 bgh l shile pNhiu lhe pufi drL in &. cnrF up. ald dregdhs.d labricber$en |h. bs downro rom i b,* und{ ro $c puftrnd rum. swlnc basc a (ris. 1-15) (Rels to lound:do! 'EdgertnGhbg for Rum6" @ w'h prfso.Lrnng, rh. pufis rnd lhe folds.onncdng lllc puffs c@Ehd r])chbnc inro a par En.d rtllcl PuffsrhFing sbns sirh a sEncil of cr ou cid6 on amDgEd i Bnd (Fig. I r5).

usi4 fte scnril, kft ih PdEh onb rhengh sideoI rh. Iahnc. sdrh and salns rich druler ou! line tishlly Pushth. pufis w md sFEd odr rhebmched pur labnr {th th poinr o{ the IEde Gsrh* rheedsB of dr r,bric b Mth 6 nssu(nenB of &e puFgarhnd ink.or ol ftc tabc A liebl*dshr linins hcked ro rhg'thabg bchild the purs $mdi6 rhe rabn. o!.hll ind prcv.nb p l.sith.ing thi.rds non bF.kin8 undd sllas

J#as ;-:tQ\i*_
pt-o.
i \

Q-"r .-o

r a n a ^ c a y o y a\ t ) s h . r t b ) 6 a h e t t e h | , -?.dsich4ld)fwoycyTsb a rcwat ya ws Mbh .. be jored la anah,4 ow at ya 16 and il an

-:ri

, {,,9!'i'3

ho Li(hrL' nrd

: ::

l -

. !./-,
3

'=,?a

)hei.

.i 11

rY.i .'fLn

) Shirring
SHRRING
whengatheredoimu|rip|elwsol * &hingsM *nisht eds rhe d*Emsd ,a h PqErhrow5 ,Iel nrrcling lin6 sp1ad ouL ovd rh. shidng srcR Markthe .hins lnrc on ih. nvcM 5ide ot $e fabricwirh a hbricrar. hdld oi hghl) pns.d folds, or dcp.nd on a sclins nKhinc halv6.qmir.r'nat * lbr mdchedto coresponding ses ro PrePaE tabrn lor gdhdrh 'nB,.oY* tht mrl<.d lin6 wrh srikhs. n.chin+seM *nisht
sdthlag'oiztgzagsdthulgryd

PRocEDLTRES
nea{rcnenL lor th. shtrrcd fsbri. to n ch. D.cide how gnhenng *ir.h.s shoulddB' puy-slisLr, modmt, s.nd os. ro 6rim.re de hnsrh ot nnshirrcd l:'bft n.eded 'd pro' du.c th. desind lullncs b d. shirrtd fabdc. muldply rhe E.
g.' dc*ultEmr by 'ne aEouDr

''6*heringMerhodc pss.r). on
thnid. sdng. dr .od i onc.nd (nrhinc *wing) oI mch snn c*her ech ro{ oI nirhin8 ro a

dqhtilrK

.lbodlrrtr

@renmirh6.:s4dl r 3 (lnoE) 2. Addinga $cona basurcnem lor ft. non{hirEd l.nsth, ot th. hbii Nob lnd shicd hbn. shriir<rs4hdy d.K 'n e h' ftd sriching (Fd xrmpl.. i D" (r0 5cE) squr shiBl 'o 6" (15tb) my shhnr< (5nr) r rrcn i6 non shirtd 11" oojm) bs'n As :he nunber ot sarh crd bwe Inc@s. shrink4e

ach ov roa nn surfaa mrkd tht &nghg rhhdi {ings or .ords r lhc cndsof wo or non adjaenr rcNsof nidrins in one trush dc tab& imo ,6clf on lh. hudy hdd thH,ls. crther in(h

. 4#

,hllslbpsW,hii,hebbx.s,.ded

.i' L,..ri ri-,riJ. riiijxrF-'if

I L l r r j t!r! jrtll+riir

.'4r"1]urq.ar!i!!\riirr
ridaiDah rbtra.iadarrhe.enrar

lffii,ji:rT.r'-rl]ntr
.b ? 5 srn4 !a!r*r dh rale

Norr5 a- VARiArroNs

r" r!r.Ing r | trts' Lr!

tarsiry tandsid./redo' onasde sides ib) sby h;id ri.h.d rori'

L hh r r F , r r r t . r r L r , f i \ ,

::J' rr,5 orsrLnid srr.hn,a

,i{r

g ( F , Bl r a n d( f r r b

-|]rlr(

s't|fflbn!l]tG rio{r

i:,, rr !.d, Fr i5 !r,lunl

LrLhtro$\nl i

r L rd o e

l0l

'hc iish. drPrr0 PD0r!r, LIL

\trh radnntrgrul!15 !Drorr{rrr)

dutuE!

\1'.rr(0,D$ n'ir s

nduofLl[ rahf!. Lh. hbnr L! lrh

!.nhuD8 .{0\

on Pag! L7) 9N(d

I!h-

a r*nrrrribur!

rornru.

{rudurr (rcir

o crhsirn

ro u,/l(,rrur^s rh| h6. htdr

{(h nr.h (rft. b _(;rh.ug \LdDds or p)s! i) r.o5o,ind
ii. drrEd in'o rjunbl! of$\rl og

:<
: ; ' -

A v,iiahn dl puff.d3hnnng I,ufl.d tin .nbtl|ishs lounds

sns a 4,and5 ae *e@t ean 6 |@nchellwhm|hgskeMTangb fuq'hhoshj|d.gsalE||@ sfuingafuysnaww'mwng |hedescendi.g9lfua|rE9kewed

Iabri.:(1) Pns 'ht nm nlo{anG on rl'c longelgs unds ncarh(2) r mesurd NcNrls sF.!d dd alone l.nsrhor rhe rh! tnp. nt h icrc$ tlr nnp.nd srhcr dghrlr:(r) Rcducnuft dr bncldwro rhesdh.Rd inFr s.rions rd pdfi 'h. 'nr^rr,!s Fie.23. dsq heaw2pdb{6 al hLft,blnr&dch r Iold.ddg.s F a foundarion, shapi,,EscsLLorcd ireitu kp$ (se ris. 211) Rtsd (FiB 2.3) shonen djshnE rhe sr.v.d slii,irs rq Fo! shidng ro putl, $. dishtr( b{u rD 'hc sarhercd o\5 inur h. Nh$ rhrcws ncbu rd 1r alorr 'h. dinaDc!berqEn sdh*d m$ b drca 'Nmd dr pdl $ho adja rtd rcws,c rorc.ddos and. e{{&l\ rons{ fordsdEPcof b pufial shiniDsin coinrudion, p,iedvdy laEc (Fig 2 s) DruP.d elknls. wh{6 Puredshinrg 5asdt

No tabn!hrar A full or pfli'l Lalti(Fg l lr) Aho sl'imrsth. 6l'i. b :i- on chnmdlcd.ods n eds,noFd 'h. !nd5 rht sds o. oI mdsph.nl tb. SiLhd'ngfbn .or hg uDdonc auowdr gnhcnfs bur

'nc$uRdad$ 'n 3arhrtd b\s. hut longs dm ihc rc{s o .[ov sp{ rorrngling.(lI $. nry hbnc tr Nq aft( ft mdllg. or surh n ) Aft.. bpntuhi!8 rhelld rowb the tir pul 'hc loldsEled tsom lnc Iulr andholdi| rhd srinkd posnron u'hlcbP5ddnngthcEnrcNo| gadr.ndsltlnng. Nt6ft I rdp shi+, ard sm disFnc tu'n previ ousI\M (Fis.z r0) sr.vh8 shonensft rcrG io{ nssurchenl dI ct@d J,irn,s i5sr End on Ntrhodt onFse 6) lht foldsRi.
rl.s.d bcNe! qns sdrhd in

:=

Th. rcladonshLp b{we! rolds andreNso{ gadcred nndng thangGfmo PrPlndiculai h dirg ona|{htn shtn4 G sk$lrd

aubidefudinchanng|so|k@an

-Ee

rirt aL nF ir i n1:r{3,1!'rii ie /r' oi,rf f! tii !d n r siii rFdrt ild-?ri.'ni.G'r'lqr..4ot:'gil,t ir , E rlf 1a,r 0 r: i.1. ij . rfilrlnro

'! !r-r <rrrd rr ao!.rrr,{!.r!..rx.,"(r* j(r r4 F.! t an Ir ia:lni r ar I f @ ,r!44

ri trrcd(l i trii ,).!r!d bl f nq, ! ]tl](ibr/(addju|n(ilr!d

{i! oillcr f, f,-ir i4, fry ilr rhEcil!orj:Id!oreA]]!] lia@'[tl!L:de!ll]xr]fi'

H T (,NC

PATTERN SHTRRTNG
-6brn automr a t 3hhd wnh rod the sathedng IonN ry a dsisn

,. srekhhcs.ndrpinrhcccs

or lne pdn mjhiftd hbnc b r pdd.dsu reaDd non\tuh m non hdd abd{fi. shtiins.

NoEs & YARTATToN5 PRoclDURES

rar $!el npq6 of rhe dds! labd on a enPle of dre d*Ei,rd to ddemic Gr .ppbpnaE nith lmcG rrd rGion sdrins ror &b' ndc ssrheringand ro 6sc d.i,ll d.sign cfledrrss. Ihe p .n n,y b. dt(ittrlt to lolow il rh. sth. dng n t@ tull or th. sl. ol 'lc 'h. d6ign is roo s@[ ro $tuk .ihc appliton, msure : eFple oI rh. fahric bcfoE ard aIt! a t{ shirrins of rh. pircm and .quib qd 'hc hqd n*sumenb M.4zln inirg is inrreded lns*d ot touoFiu a pdrcrd, 'hc dd8n EDd{s rr!.\ ron.id md h,.k*nr, ndcwiys, rcrcs' aM riound,,ivdoping conlisurarione ot puck$. rolds. ard prlE 6

sidcot G. I:bft 6 the o'n{ 2. rEce tne daign onrorhcrmns 3id. dl Ac hbn. $nh e hbnc ]'\Niththegathdlgloo'ilu.h.drc $. frehtn. (dc b "6a&dn's Mdnods on pqqc sdrh and t), s,$.r e.h ih o{ d; d6isn sqv slo l ndppdg 'o $t&c plss Ioound pivorihc hbric on $e nedlc Ihflr sunline dtEdon h e6.d. quiE ddj6'frd' lishL'o mod.nk ga$dns $ib

sd.hirs{nd'g(h.nng rrcceed. viiia'idB in rM spr.in8 rnd nr.B ubnnsh r stithingPaln Pm dua dir6q in rh. nli* or nsn' dd shtring sftdr lcnsthud kn$on adjunnmG 'hd frodiry ftc lqhftir,4ishde$ oI rhegithdns ,dd mort dhcGion Thc loo.\ gaLh.iingktion .an b maDually nnucd by inhihidns l!. hbft fron movhg aslly bw,fti rhc m. de Io inft* fu1ln6s.Fm th. frbrc by holdingit do\r Nr'h i 6nss a ir emel36behind&r dr labn! buikls up in b&k or the Bcrusc or tlre ddry nd .on pl.xi1) dr rh. e hcKt $n.hiD8, pikrn- and mrandsjhired rabhc m rcldivcly sron3 Dd i,t rDmsR$.nd norr4d prcredion rtittr ssbilizin8 mayte quiftil BsE a sby b rh! shnftd hbnc funak ro tiE sarhered nirhrie

i )r

irit

qqqli,

rt.rr.

P A T T E R N H i R RN 6 S

rirj

.icansod!rnqtrtokno@su4roioliddae,

4 d'otr. E$!Ei iiir riff' fcrcii!n$roioonoi @l/F0![dhsoE@nrtrfurdg@Ern!l!e

Supplementary Fullness

*g mIry
; * , , .

J Mahingk"tfJles
RUFFLE BAslcs
EDGE FrNrsHtN6 FoR RurFrEs
Do$led.?bn... .. .. +4

nune desigrE .. .

56 (h..dge lhetnqfta s LDtsh Lr{ of lirdrd rnmd or *dhq lxr{ of fahnc, onlyp}orc6d. nor rdst or ,he nJne bur ?lsorfi.cr dr $duooleofrh.lu l.i noNr[k! G sdheRdor pl.dcd I sdfr u,,hr.nd qrsr rhnh has rh.l.d cfcd or rrr." foRr: nm. LrGd ,

b)cddoublctdg.J n8s7 rull.d doubh.e4ed rurl]c. t7

shrll Hm

onrrmktd [dg. Ronqr o{rro.kedEd$ng .+e

sinslc.srdtnLm. Lnltitd sidslrcdscd run6 .51 Pufird singledg.drume 52

pdites d tua nu,in rufll* (sare 14" thh)tu|Jth dnrcary @h

Nors rhis chaprr b.ginsfrrh BASTCS, hdEred bya snr bhd

rppsmc

s{fl1s

trstrrpkldn
douhlLd fab.

hDsc cdsr.lhuds punu !, rh. &h. r. (no!rd. one br one. rrom frhshs drPcns. ,!oid snrss.nd

r h . n o nr h . r i n s [ o n b c n n f
mnrd G 5dytdgt f

n.), n .rn bl'r th. .dBr (r ringd or doubt d rid ptrIl.d nLllt.), or ftaudir G $rin nnch.do' cor Ldu(d{ldjKd runo tr fs Edse

row z!?a8 eDs

tu bF or 'h.

non unnnll,ng runhdwnh.ur rhc.dsc. snip r ror.,dnuh, 1o

Lrncol sdrhtd rhread obviors ri. on borl, sid.s orrh. rum.rwrl, orlj cDiird.'r'. nrl|r,riri,!fi ,rs m,!tr o/rtrl,r't.'h. rid,rDI,rl R l., 'h. /.mq ot l/l. s,n0 t's or
PJdir{,

lcngl[ (Fig ] l) Arrfs.rhqiq

d{plr frinsdnm6 rm,lrostr

Ftr 33 F6ins a sirde bb edse tinish: P'wte thetufltdlip as la) shawnlb) Fad at he tus e@ al A loldturish$rlt flo nsd$ ddrbhdJar'ir Doublnedn5 body hnLk rlr h rht rlFk rumtRnd io huDch.d ! snrr o'pl.n lolds rhc

ij,ft ol rr..pr,J,raio Icr dtu d nor edsrfinrhB or a nrap ol rlr ins tu,xmc alH$ f,nshrht A frft aPPrePrhrfor nn ed3e.

,fti 'Jr Pr i.ft?l

rit4ir

on rll ord rJd ndl,is b Lhr dethnioDoI rherufie! .d8t cnt llnishbg quickly nnc ronnwd 't|E piri.d

LhL nls$ h doubh run( lms rh. {ip c( Lh(shp Io! a rumew rlo sid!\ (i ddubl!-L(ig.d nnd rwift N nide* horh fs rLus n

dd nndins Lin.ro douL. ft rur. lL {nP (ng r4) Edstn H5aD bc soill olled. Afrfl arl)li.nioD. a
eatadhs

cdg.ol a wdrn Iab ncrum!.orulli lur6 ou,btrl ksnGnYtlrrnsPinrrhs do6n\

Fie 3 2. (a) stutdy ne

(b) snhped hi@e tinishs6hed al

whrn ,h! qr{/3r or rLc hbri. tss.dsr]'.!ilg!ol.flfflc.'h. edse dffinrhd. Tht $nbiF is andhbri! 0r or ftknsrhsnLn. ol rh. r.bd!. pdrr uP,hL rlod ot , rheson.ird.l'mt qu|nr or! rum! !trh a frh8.d {+r insq*s !r,l,c 3{h{n3rht a n,mrfih a

:,.,

ft beNn.d{rhotrr{}Lng hndd

t6en

{rh insid. a shsh fotd (Fis. r ,.

l,

ldsdhtr vih rho';or

rhr ar L{lsr oI rhe hb,i non rar

tns edses:(a)sinde4d@ntufte .tip (b)Dalbled@d ruttbskp b|edsrbhrng/galhahglplea|irglire

id.is!,

ro rlt Lrr ol,lr iLLll.

l-r-.r. iodPri rris I t) orNr5

J
rrt
ota tune st@ G) Ma.h)nelbh the drdire ta rhe skir wth 'sLt .id6 tdqethcr Eirhat tb) hantt nkh bo brdededge|olhe]ah|ngseann ba.k, at l.) ptn he bindns. tabed edse beydndthc hhhs scan h

t *l, v
.ach'tu at (a)a eEte &9& turb, it lb)a daMcdsed tutu, b theriehl n n P m 6 L n L \ i hi i d . r f b u

T\

'in th,cttibn dndrng td) sew th,a Fiq.3 6 (a) tnrsde b.ds *M b 2 tune slnp, t6) lundd b the 6a.k tu,h a eantauredand edaes chej |fulngedgeslllxuchedinba& (d)Decatat e ta.]@ dth both ede6 \!tr,, [Nrs lo.r Mkr]d ro rrf

(fLs l3) bolL' lqLd5

\i!a'iri

ntrtuLJdrdsr .r rhr binLlD(b 'Lqmennf lrl !,( !tritr,sdr (Lll. ifis J i)

firdns n dtrLh!aon iur \r[n! Lr'!dhq J$ orlh h.ng 'o dr

dtbnrdir*ro1rr

Ih. r no.r

oldNhl. t0ld dla nm. \tL , d.hq $llor i lglircd inlh 'hn*ng!or.

pr$Lng r do!bL Iold htn' uo rh.

trdt u'ollrr

r.!" o,nnrl and p(!

rd tr' (5Nnr h iu{n \1d'h Iu Lh

t bnGinoth. rord ({f?

1t
r \!,.; s;b;;;(:.-

t
lir no,shr nkht,l ,ro,rk lord

atlaErce down\' l3nn). rake aa (6nn) sfueh tre hen atb\| n hteae at tnah6nc jtst bchw the snothet,' lhn) srbr n he hen ta, I 12scn) slrptrs atuet 2 stbh bdo|| h,c tun lc) pltrhe

Fis 3 la la) a'nb stnp td a shen h3n lb) Daubb lda hn zxawan.e antt ptes lc) fhe slitehtto q'ry the B|irg|heneedefuMandaradb| tl l6m); p6h t thtaDehthe )rnel h@ takJand oi h bact td) c{ry hpe avet the hen le) Pu te tread

Fs ?12 la) stniEhtstw)@ a tut na bbrabhenu apndaten@rbh

't
,-* cdqe lb)zi9za9 lthd wheDth3 ,etJc-e sdsht E tud vrh a Mn reedtc aDdu)

la) staishtnibhe Men ctt wh a p)nred cDt (c) gded Lah he

l rd
.ri

r {r!h{rtd
mrs\trhoft

r0'
ik

$inrlis

.l{tJJb!bln(l.lh..igl.

P(*(

Lqd !, LruL,h,o,

r.j,sr

.q{5 rhc:isrs rtr.hs (Jr rof

'ir

ihDAro.n|ot i+r rr

I t
i

!
=

N-{s

1 si,sreroLd hinrnx lrin,

pr{.d Nd dtrdA. n.v {d) G) F a 316. Satrsrb@ d9n9s: (a)se\|ndturtt oEt he dt e@e tb) sewn otet an enee hnned ah{ 2iszas srbhedptIatztior tr) sewhare, ) ktded edqewth thetuaste stbwarce thned aro sth sribhinq. se,n avetan td) enqelundqaskFtle'nataawrhfu stbhi@.te)s,.wnow a try, stashtsrbh,ed sinsretddhen tut dk:!p.4 1\'tlltlg.]\nLrfN,|hol'l'

th. finsr olr|I rl}(d Lound !d*h$. iLre JKi/h..dsrrs. r rhlr rrr (ris r-r6) ro Prs.d Ir Qr ,,u !$eLLh{$r(i$fod rn(h rr|Inrhri.(riB r ri) wtrhLh.(ftLnrirNo,ssidiu. $! N'h 1lt u{dre jun Dcqu* srNni.Lirg(F's r r0) o|'iD\:

an ov.rr@r.d .d3. requiE a nrs* o,*ro.red sdhlJry mclc 6 se c$.dg. oI i rr tu srrp iBid. ' l'dd.rcd chainof loay ftEds (Fjg.3-2r) with sriicb bsln shon.n d ld d.r r]lIad .@ge. fie erin stibhed .dsbss ddnib.d ,!d inEnaea pF ously c.n b. aupkiEd by ovslochns srrh r ssei Ik $q* rdf .rin|f,. n..iil. hd dthg rhe f'bnc 9.p b 3fthjl o!r 'he seuon

Gerrrnro
SINGLE-EDGED RUFFLE
+ of ftb.k virh on. hn! "dp ldge sthered b a $ora aE4 n.uuroma! md id.hen @ iht 6brr.,-Iheoppgne edle floc h

PRocEDtrus
L cho6r an appmprdb rnd .llktiv. .dg. finkh for fte rfile (EIer b "Edgc F tshing fq

it u! wh.n r beom6 rec*

rr. zisas srirh.d edsrdn

rh. 3ftkh Eh,l. rh. body of

Rums' onlqse4r). ro $r, sidln foi rhenfile saip,dd r

$,m dloHnce b lhe cdshed ddln sl.crd loi ll. nm. ahd tndud. rllosn.6 for th. sled-

Fs.3.m (a)LdM.dsirc M a t#t\dt tb) wq sdsitg n tias.

LrclA @dxnen eagn|s tv *rss rftion of ho ine.dsins. !l. dgas 6ni5hd*dbed pF:osly Mrh i Prcc.duBr dirhrnc As[.d aqlo.k d ds srich.d uti &. is nsht sid. oI l]1. Lld. !p. on a ss a frIn a 3ihnrd stirh, dsh@ld rosd leP< &Eion toG $. upptr roopdrbEd @6ll ,mnd b rh. backoI rh. h6ri., totrs rhe.+.

Flg3zzFab,n3hp6aJ||6ga[t eted sinde4de.d tunh6 tua |!||bddhahdasenalbwM b6dekogdhlings@whh edge r ead 8 ftqdEd |ol fu Ch;

r. Deidc how nu.h rullnG the romeshoulddcplrSarheEd slighqDods:te, s.n.ms, u&$ sd .n .fkrrhe gsrh, sing hry.r n*ucoDt fq rh. am. ToErimtr rh. ldgrh oI ln. rnF n.ed.d tu pnauce lne d6ir.d rulrnds h &. rum., Erldply lhe 6rgd nsslEtunr t'y rhe amounr indi. edince

dldNilrix=

lr4dt x 1 {rmor)

mthins ldg'br ol rh. rum. fabdc,idendcrl in frdrh ,nd fin

. Aricndr dcc of sriF.r dn lhe sMighigEinol th. hbn. d,h rnErdsi! th. \qvc. To .xrnd ,h. lcq,h df a rum. snip,ss rhcshonedgs of fu5dP5bgethg\i'hnghl {rLe f,.ing dd eds6 m:rh. open(Iic. '2r) (ro con dnbB rff! ndp curon rh. shighrgnb, rcLr b Frg toi
arewen'|hghlangl$fubdh

(Efc ro rhe hrsd m*surme{ "6aihei3Me,nod on pasc 3), scung bside ih dslgDad sanline inside th. *m .Uo* arcE ro drr dth I lengdy ruf nc nhp g{h.rd on Pulledrftsd nitching, divide &e de. b be 3lrhd.d imo [rlvB, qu,i rE. or.iqh$s; ru rhedni sons bdk.n *cEerB !i'h

Fi!325'IoiFenafohlairlaa ,@n (a) Basb uEtufltdb tabic *1. lb) Ph ttbk 12ow he tuttb, bes@ theha.ins G)aph@r . As, hcn ru(1ctlEr lis on bp of rhehbnc 6 whichir Irom $c f,bft to whrh I is dkched For top nfis, Fis I ll on pag. i) For loi rarins *,n allowancs inchd., (l) ziszassdrhirs (Fis. 3 16); (2) c6nne wirh , litus o! ildsibre hchs (nld b rE 4.9 on page70); G) coanng sth a d{ohlR Iacins(w thc rmc dshr nd. up b rh. wronseideoI rh. hbnc {d run rheri.ug 6 thc fron0i(4J .ds.nnc[

Fis 323. c6stah tuke*aB ro

hawasfudgeedqefu'' large||fustip'dndextahb|b frnne:4elfidhqakru|||e

Iqrde ro similar bur smeU.r

. Forbi,ycutsr,Fim rh hbric Ijrh lins fiat .rcs ln. . .xdd rh. lcngrhdl a rfi. nnp, ss theangl.dedgs oI M5dP5egethd!i']righl sd.s fr.ih8 dd samlinE

Dtsrnhr 'nEsa'necdmlr 6. Pd rn. g,rh,red edse lheruI of

lle sdp ro rlc l,bd. \'hFe it r! b bc applicd;bsr dtedy ov.r lne g{h{ins nfths Machine b6idc ln. basGg/cadcnng $tcn6, hidins rll .onnndion nn.rils ard the 3afidcd $m allowana in 'n. prcc*s of

the *rn ilowanc open (Fig r,r4) (Fo!a co,rinu oNru 1. nnp dr d! n\eln6, Ers 6 Fis.e 13on plge 200.) 4. Appll 'h. seleded finnh b one roig e+e dr rheromennp.

rumc{ips nrtd earh.nDs. auromaic sdhdns urng ft. Srdenns fool or Bm{ rhdnnor ts s hn (Refer and .rrd.nt irrfn{i.. ro 'Gafi"ins Mdhods' plg. t) on as gdhctus dcnir in.r66,

i
ae. 323 (a)Funb*sbd b tu edsa a circte ot betaE edse. tb)

M: la) s.tu ltE nne b tu ttutaE .dce'zigzaqqovefukfu@n. ab$nee ds* tb) Fuiaa han rrtrns.mnt (Fie r-27). The n@rinsals of ln. rumE
$$t oEilPs :covo$ ft.

NorEs r VARTATToN5
,trumcofso(lnhrabnc.an b. gdh.rcdmuchnon dch+ lna! B@!a r rurncor on drebns tn& b zb6orb sarhdsr 'h{ nitching lde, a hi6-dr rumc n,y bc garhd.d nu.h FoE rshrty rhsn a rumedr o rhc sn$hqEh of rh. ene fabnc Topftduurtracdc runns a, rhenoadrscdge. r widerume necds ughE!sadenng Rnfilt niPs mrr br g,rhsd o! rhEd nn.rd by hard or shicht q zis4g{lilchcd by hachine on. !rip! sathqedlid trsft b nod<r ddTry br shk. s*henng r nor ssily omrcned sth fr! nvsorsdahing.wltny &or

(1)!rus , n'neB*n dlo{aDc (onlr rhe$:n aLlovnrt). ldmng lrqkl on &e noq (2) msh dr sun rr]owan.c,kunul,tidn uod( nEisht. :ls:aggd. or overlolkEd ldinin$ O) olgcrn.h 'rhtrsh all lry.B iftd aPPlyiru nmq rhe (a) or ,ry .onbimuon or n\e abwe Bulrgsm allowrnG tdnribunn undrtl) in8 limn6 ro Rpdtinons lrh b* of galnsedsinsrc.d8.d Thes,thcd ed$ or a shsle. edsEd nft. is ndiblc. pdnnLnE .un.d ind rye Dsted appticl ctEL.oI]ngltsill{rckhd[md luil d 'henodinseds.unk$ r t garhendah ichdv r rlrc$urc. Add ldlgA b 'n. tufiL rip ro alio{ Ior rhe dcn* sdh.ing .ur!.d ud anslcd apPrjGrons insid.a cun.,.irck. or rnglerulr bulgeri$ squekd tolds{ $. no:us Mgc unlc$ the srhenns n lishEDed For. nLmc appltd g{hdin$ rora irmcsppltd bd.

appl'udon d.bils of rhnft. bdo{ thc sRh dlolroc or rheDm r ln. bp ml be 5io! or ralfic Tl[ nm. r rh!

Fb 3.27.neted s 4died ta2 tufit tu edthacd 4tuni. md lqzis

sLbhhEavettheedseat th tuhteE . A, ,heedee sDrrelftr ln oI lill b. rPPliqud a toundi to

rhc ends ol rufi6

rla mdrk

loo* ends The flrdsolnm6lhr nop d { cdse or rh {oundadon I{bi. wilrb. duehr id Lhc $m rhe mds of ru{nc rhr ldp widin rl'.Idundarod rab.ic slould rpa or &n ,nro rlr. $pktuo! sEn FA 83. rwo na, the uppet iunb

applhdasfub|he|abicbedge

rhc lo,ring urs. dfu pd./ rii 3r(.d3!d ljfr. disrl)4f in ' rull1cshru $nh a dorhlrd.frbri rumesdr lrtirr ro [dgc rinBhtr$ fo! Rufi6" o! rasc11) Xrh. .'lg.sdld'!n'n.nriP{cUloD nnlhing,h. cdss bsdherfo! s.dc.ng lr rherune 5dp L cut Donlrrts$eIoLdarhrfioa.ie |dg. Af,{ sihnng ald aPnLi'pull r. rwohltE dfrheruf. rion. neap* ropoulrh.body orlh. En (.ja 3-3t).Ruf[6lcs un f,(2 t.b) wid. frunclEeffods r *pan.ng dr. h)rs Doubled nJ. 116ot .nsp [,bir ]" (5.h) $ c dr 6drt nlf e irh th! mor bnor?n.r hrdly pufid'll. b ftb i. Lh. pull. uck th spEadi,s rufil. hbnc r intrryd5 ro sch 5idcor rh. .ppl'driotr n,m ForPumnss rhr nor Nhrft ftt fodndiro! Iabic
(b)

bffi6kegalhaingedgea|ke

A nsr.,nrrr ru.t hn . g u .
ing dg. rhap.d ii ascalloPPr rm carlrnng inighrns our lhe {i.hhyaPPLnrion rinenn'ghr loped ro rnd |l[ ilhdud| onsi nill!.ur inr rhegrhftrng.de.

(Fis r-12).rra sinsLc{l,dLrutd. n curr nddtrblcdf,b.. Gd' ro 'EdseFinishing Ru r.r' o! foi prgc{4), rh5tu[s.ar bc pultd

ns.3-34. (a) Ruties Mk sta,aht ul (b) ro *ds anetued h a Mhs 8n|a|heedga:tih'gaw'and .|Ech|hefofljel'enfubbpe|ed @d. (c) ra tan ad: PDnhe staioht wnlhednd@bhkthesbfu\' whn a rufr]c 6lfd d rar.d (dr ro t4e Fhishins ror Run.! on paseti), .onou!ry lne floding .d8E. oPdon. a! shilc rltc.4. sil houdlc lbh nrli3hr o a dmp.d

ris. e

,!flte t4 strate.sndn pat

oP!nid3. flj'ro andb*r $ rhe

donqabdve6b6 tb) at the2ad{| aPdndb! orr4)..d rngt. rdg.d rujl{ n,hrcunds rhdm nNc efid or hrllr dg.! rvo { i,oft rums. srhscd *piiard), b aYoid nsrl.d tdl& a' thl sdhered rh. orhtr \idr sarrrrd &g!5 ,nrdtdg. and iNn ro dr lourdi norug cdg.ofrheupFinft 16

ourrim .ngrs ed curus rt ' dmr

Lris or Iacirs G ,pprolirii't bur r shDll codourcd noRnne.dge L rrt d6ind pftnle. corbur ft g dry d3. w'rh.rl[ ga'j.ft3 edse ldnbmd. Lhe ooadng cdgt or 'he rumsdp ntuE shighl tor ssy rPPftrion ot rhcdc'ftd .d3. {innh

Fie.e. (a)DaMhbrc itr. s|np.0|he'highlganan|l pLqins. s@tatins thes2thercd lb) taFE wh ttu heb d 3 dowet.

reiFi}:oadlaJfo!ltci!,ili':nll!i'j.*

4ie"-!'lr dE ! 1 ,- ri-

rr i 1! i[x ! j r4r b]..,l q.r :," rri.i/ i,i-M+

,!T

TPE'

\,LE:D:!L]

I 3 ! " ( { ! ' q r . , . r l i r : 5 r Di ,

jn

rir b d: td

!I fie !ll5

.F

GATHERED

DoUBLE-EDGED
RUFFLE
rnripo|hbrtFthered6a

toll, fr gausr lh. nrlhbs dG. bre Ircn llt iighr cdg. or rh. sdp enh a delne on the bcd ot the $nns nkhirE Follodng g{h{ b rhe hl8er nGurchenl (r.ki ,o .cadenns Merhodc on pasc r) To ddvd a lensfty nmt nnp ealhd.d dr pnned ,hEad nitching. diudc rh.lhc to b. $,hecd inro halvs. qurtn, d .'8h,hs; hrk rh dnisiom bds(n ng n.nG {nh pinsor dElk EquRr.

sdbmeds4fEFadth add{nd sarherednkhrns i the

Fb 3.36.ropsM appbran tu (a) tuubb edeed tudtee: staiihl ftnaftd a@tu. lb) za2as srbhine.le) sah stuchind td) and e.o@|ift9lilchi@ew||haga|he|

PRoctDLrxrs
r. choo* m rPPrcPnnca .IIc rlr rinrh rd h. flo,h8 eds* of,hc rumeEld edg.nay hlYe ,hr *ft or a dif6e finish (R.t( 0 .Eds. Fidnhinefor Rur06" oDpige 1l ) ro d{s. oinerhdd,rr oI d. rum. nrp sc' i I'nthed rlidlh for tht rulle on s.h sid. oI rhcmrred sdkhins linq hdud., fo! dd, nd.. rn irorEn.e fol rh. *kcGd.dge hnbh:robl nL n4surndas (Fie r rj) r .ollo{ rheprceduns ds.nbEd for .gRih.ftdsbsk{dscd nn. , nPs:r md |:r, on pag$ 49-j0 r AnrLrrh. *rcdrd hdh b borh rons edss orrhcnn. snp (ft.rcd nn.hi4 rincpilh ' hbrn $r mcd,uh or a pr6*d
n. by *3nHr ro rhe iargd

NoTEs& VAru{TioNs
t. wirh a tabfic eit n.diuh, ru* st,ichtoldning|ins'lr(indi .aE rhe pr.rtn.n' oI &e Dfie! gatn{ed nir.hing. Foi esy a.rtr, n.y fark 0orh* lin. ro rh. 4h' rbr 'h. 4shr Edseof tht rul: ne 'o ner (u*.hrlk. di*ppor 'ng p!. a row or p'ns or r r.n. ponry lichq F$cd lold) Makljns $. na. b the suide rd. 6r51irch on thr g.rr.d8 srirl'c b ibch th run. b llc round,don. un nEishr or apprc

Edscfndr, erlhcnns dr6i): hbncdundcnsics,rnd nne dinduonilry or Lh0odiD3dss r fie sids ol doubl.{dged ruff6 Ih sbndarddoubtc.dscdnft E $dertd wnh hrnd nirchjns. nrh snaightor z'3ilgg.d n&hire nrthbe saftenDsusingrh. $'hding looro!run{rb.hncnr (nltr b crhcing Mdndds dd Pasc r). andir is snhd on s nnEhr bw of nr.hins (lered bcrwcn dre Drqsdng ltuE lnesbndard&ft nru.r?rndel b No. rhe.. o! moE pdEnel rc{s olsiirching tulP7ed. $dn or t'iftd 'xj'rFinrodu.6 i d(on!!c bdd df coDrlnalfolds
bdwmthe]oo*loldsEl5eddd!

s{ds bym{hinc c's r 36) u$ $. birr b,ckir.h forhind

s-:,a,1

nd6 (Fi&3-r7). o,rn dddoB ,! nmc 8,,heEda lide of{fltrtr or on a srirhingrrtu dEroFE Appli.db a bundnion u& ln. garhsed nirhbe shishrned out. rlr a'ning fld. sdrhin3lnc bclotr8a'n.dnB rErdr 'o $e silhoudG oI dr. 0e!t$ eds6

Fb. 3.s7 s$*d

ean nrne whh

. sdo1, hs renzrcd sernr B

gabeh!Addefua@|a|lhe

It rh. snrhins 6 be sdhertd blr veE Ircm cdgcb edse s Cdh sed unril rhft.hins s sdghr, lne nofng eds* ssume shdl'lik. formrions. Pann5 Ior theBIhd ins thd prcduca i donbl.jJ'sll rufl hir !pd. oclo*d by stith. tnc ld6 Ald mrkins 'he stuInrs Iineon $e backof fte tuft n.p. 8:lh.adoubl.rhe[nmebyhsnd b reul c dr shiprs oI r]t slEus i B..aus oI i6 unEual ehaoing, doublc{hdl am ror b. .ri.r ro

wilh ins fiey nesotiarc rr8hL.trRa unobhdve sr,fing ind squ*: hc d oppsr. .dsc. RumcddeE *Tloit theconud ter{ei {rd ing bands rofils urh rjpPliDS of edg6 ind smoolnb,&grcund xrc$ A scmlledrofiI. d6isn .on toim ro . plaNed, Ep6dlg p.1( Fm of lin* rk.d on ih ngh'sid. or ln. rodnd.ron hbnc (Fig.3 r9)

Fg'341'D@ble.adeedfuMlcp. sli|tfuwihd94bL.Jr|@lfuw @@M h6 spad a Mtuel tur highma$ednm6. mwsdr doubh{dssl ans m rop6dEhed bgeLhd$ dos.l! L\i rdjamr rur. n d dg6 arcfoNd up\2,n to nm' ,bourolc-Dmedd'h lbo{ Iounda d. rionlsd, bu41ng bpsrithedad.sa,rrftd *ins (Fig.3Jr)

Fig'3'B'Namqdauble.edgedfoL fiesercl&ira|qn|i@Mvs An .llovd mfilc design pnEG the surfae Nirh a d.,nddbg. urpl,n!.d ipplmrion of nms

Fis.3.se.@ stith ne e0 des@ t6i, sathu nd he tn<kd 3n +'hs nne4Elghlens'gu|eand@nhle b ho re dnqte (b)cah1e dNbreshettufi|a.lc) ctry vedon al t@ Petuft @. Fuhts @theren ld) ard le) tuve u@ht sidetffi. rh3 fleibiliry or doubL{4.d nmb. cnwing rherumealtG rh. nort of bothdss rhe aordng Iold5o! 'h. hid. cdct ol rh. .une ina*rt l+il. ihr foldson $c ouside cdgedeqese { 'ne nep. '1. floding ede.lotd on rh. outr oF-. vill *rcth out md ar rurnuPunl.$ rh! gdharng rh. srft tr aPr.blly lghr *lich will dus th. lullDssdedd o! rhinside rha.urv.6 swdlin.o of buhds rolds only nno* ium6 r" O ttn) oi l.s {ion.dgc ro tdse areued ror afl. /.ri!E.

tu. 342 Dtubta4ds.n ffia bpsdch,|lhCon$*dfu@re&naE fueM|abic|it)9w|1hg3nga, ak'aledfusbfuqdephs shiqht d slighdy s^ts 6* or

Fig3.40'Nafuvdfuble.adaedfut bl rkhn

w picviouly a@hEd rum6 o0 to the left oI the pr6d Ioo! hold $c .dg or i\e ddd nI ne ar) rrofr $. nrtdt ud r ruls wbn. bpsrirchins rht nes nm. A ond rpphdton $ll nccd band E d!'ddon. n fti rhc loundnion Gbft $LtL e tnpoFry sbbiltel

rI@d tu ]a Forrd* ffitd nr fl6, $ni+t d odiDs rc$ ordou bl}dsea rumc ar applid a b Iound:rio!drh nodhs !dg6 rou.h bg The8'&ri.d md ropsdth.d s,s f r vdblc componctu drc or c d$isDed surtu. (Fis.ral )

'b(kd ono!rt 'hc drh* qfi d.! snhrnns nii.hs mdchcdj

bteEd ao'bte..ds.a 14116 e

F4ful'Layeid|l@Irgedqsso| bieht. nshq hbh abve the t@

1 put d ,]odl..cds.d 'afe mu" bc ft, andnndrd fmh doubr.drabnc $nh trnpto*rd lolds(* "Eds. F,lnhins ror Rum$, rn pase r4). rkr gdhdn8 ind ,ppli.rio!. pun ,h. nd. ru[l$ bypullder|r 1iy.6 apJn{nL} b 'Iufrd singleedg.d dn. on p'gr52) v,narb!: Doubr$dgedntu qi$ ont sid. pured md lhe odE sd. ' sEnd*d, ndhe..ds.d flme (Fis 3.44).

entd rLlte t4 r@ thetu d tu d@ tb)bern sdtsry. t )ah6@r ld)andth daM b tafidatd bvel . r tu.ri&t 4)r. h4 lhrt. n@dns

ro dh.h ld a fou'i!oo. lo|'ii.h n.i 6 dr ga,heEd srn rith rlrc sid. dr a zrDpdrod up .gdin rhe n* ro $. drhersidtortne gnlr dtd aan Br hard, scq.rq fie 8:th.r.d qn {trh rirh6 ftlr sidea,d i nkh on rI. d'hssid.

Fa34Prep6n4gafu'bl*ed@d fufud|dpultingaiqFfurnq raPq oLlin rheendsor douSlc .dgrJ flrfls fiI noP vnhin rhr Iounddionrabrn rapenrg involvc ldldins dr cid of rh. rumcsdtj on r[c {n.hing ]incdrh rjabrsids kcingud*wi[g, * lhd grad mrh.d e+.! rdn G. dc*s. rnd bpsurrhrorhr foundalon ro hD rhc.ndofa rurnc$w thr rhds d rht siderufi$ bsnhd rdth ogd.i oprn,pulldo*n,andri.k

oYcE[ wid'h oI thr rumenrjp includsrtn. rumcwidrhs. { $,o rhesidG ofonc dotrbled hbnc nr n in nr &nEr lFis r.46). Ttr noadis edaroI thc m. in rhr ftnt( G nMys on rhelold rhe Sabcnnsnam is nrchcd $iough rwolay.6 of rabricI nme! lidrh hon &.Iotd wirh th. finnhcd dsc t.lo$ rh. sadcnd rLrching lpreadour inb sidr tufns. rh. rur.

oI$.cnrrnmi tu.k d ruta.

oploB iodud..nlaing dds or D3 rh. $id'h o{rhc(irr ruint j sn'P.hnsi4 or Pumns c{d rhe n,m.. hd garh&irs&c cmd rum Nq i .od instrlt hsik ih. lold

:s!!!+!!!!ojraql|ljnddl

_ir.!rloai4

^rq!!rs

I
lt! 4.!d)

__-,/ in;a;;;

'lldrL\trLlll.fi(lnDindl

Hn'd.d,4bs

'1a I r.ded

: l

ffi

-.-1*;,r.

i!

\'1.e. q4i il!

:.-t:
16 .-?i!

, , f,

PLEATED SINGLEOR DOUBLEEDGEDRUFFLE

- srip ofhbfr. redled in hnsrh aidorud wid' ry sl*mdc roldins dkhli8 ,lons oie eds. or den de .4kin'e dse ed8* of i dac or en rufrefdr h Esuhi oderry toldr

rllow,ncs tor the *leded t4.

Iinish:For a nneb.dg.n rufilc, Erq ,o n3. l 22 on psge lor J9: r doublcedscdrumq afF b ,+.Toclcula& the lmglh nqnncd tora rum. sdp plcd.dro rh. b4d nssunnmr Mzk. , lioE a 5hdi,nrip lolding gau8e of paperha*d M'n dob (l.ltn) spa , 6 aprrepddc Ioi pl.rtins dePrh Inpl.ncnk and do! rh. doB indi.at plar folds:lnc d$rr. bcNEn doB equ,lsple* d.pr\ countddE to agular plEtsprtg. Mrtchins do6. told ino ]Ic chcm rLn m,ngcnenr Applythe follo{

shighrgnh or dler,bh., Ftcins sdir6 ro.'n{ iI mcsry (crs 'o Fl&I2r onlege For, sngh 50) .ds.d rulle, aplt &e *ldd ds. llnisho on. longt4c or&e rumesbs rorr dNble-d3ednr M,ikinsfirh r disaPpfbg p.n or dElk o! tnc nghrdde of th. (6nn) to ,." (l rcn) ,In{, as pn pl,nn.d. slorg lne unfin ishededgeroi i single.d8dro{. ph* rherumennp. *cuing nrthin. strhins. II the dfllr rdp it side or rh. iibht ldp, hanl to@. pin dd hind bste rhe loldsbcrorchachin. sri&h. {idrh and shps oI man4able Eehin nitching (Fis. r-50) Fu . ptstd rumeqrh sh,QlY ds*d Iolds,Pr$ fir lolt

PRocEDtRrs
r. c6e i pk{ing snrngemenr Ior li. mc Gig 3.aq) DKide wherher lolds wttl be pN.d fte L\at z. &lkr d.dgc 6ntsh {ill a{{, lh. to16arfte nod ,ge6blt, o( 'I drcple6 a to bEpK.d, in dse llirsh tnit wilLaaeptshsa cr.ig (nra b "Edge Finishins

(top Fow unlca3ed; Bononhow P!...!d)

I-llJ l.
Fiq.3.50'rofup]eabwhire
n^edan|hesLpgihdEdpola

sbdln*dleilNinbdb6|P6hil crip xE je tattud tatd the pdnbd|ip4|he|abic'li,eunde| "tk

Fig949Pl.abdfufuarhgemnb'

7. ro atx.h r Pleftd dnglc.cdsrd n'mcrc nd rrbn!,tddrti rhc n.n.rIhEa,orGrh5uirbtc (rtLr .o FiBs sudrc apprr.addn Pas$5o-rt) roPnidr a pleL cd doubl. .d8cd ru[]. ro (oun drion rabrn {{'n3 olq lhE rurfl!*anLh. Mrch rhcna nli n,nrln. o. rhen8h alge oI on thc fabn. (rcfci b Fis ] 36

Pklt d.prh b6ed on a Iotding sruge ol do6 spard !o EorE lna! , (L3on)apsirnl,rspbpdr riomuy b ndn rufne lidrhs rnd :ppLi.inds. Fd pt!i' Iomadm, Idld. rhe inn* lold an,l rhr ourr ford n,r.h Poirr of one rr . rnd, deu. ro Pbn ddc rumc {ipi Pa(rubrly iI lhc plt& aa ro be prEsed mnk rbe.dgt d eds$ dtn a duplicrc ot lh. do6 on rh. snlinq mfth all rh. nisned do6 {hn rordins and pftins sch pld; and bsr d lh. .dsc or cdga s scll 6 on rhe smliiE. Lo.ar 'ne Lbnc. Fns lighrry b hdrd rh. .dge d! eds$, and nmr pi.s rholougbly prodtr&a rumewirh rd qnp rolds(donrrnovruDril.ool d dr}) ro @inhh llt inrgtuy otlh. toldr,ippl) arased. Plar e,:lruIfl. ro rhc lounddid! i a Likt sdheBl rufil$. epDlt, doDs oluipft sed Plred ru{n6 bg will aftpr sEcefutl]l The folds or s mrc! bdviiEn.d Pr'4 ,uj[. or nrllld or allo!* nfil. lrcn(B

4mc, bw mesd dmcs.rnd lddd ruflI$,qndions d*.nbed lor g{tund fgr.- Dd dable. cds.d run pttuin o p1.adrul n$ 6wdl. Forappli.ario.s dmr rtqune quandrrs of Plc&d rurn6. u$lltn fldi(rthrcnrrd.onveft nme nnps ,nro aronaftrllt klirFplered ,nd nRishr srdrd iinsl. or ddubre.edsed .urn6 sinph sdju$nmr .hrn$ rh. duchnetu Ircm cdluing b p1.d ing modearl rcsulat thr $pail

NoDs - V,4fi-arroNs
Bfsrh rh.QPlkdjonsan. pLeredrufis arcsrodh filn d6. .iPlinedrords,nd unddtaycre. conp,id ,o sdhercdsirrsk dsrd Prcncdsinglccdgurn ma (em. Lns'n. eme bllet e k$ bnlky At rhc nod. Pl.rkd oms rcll inb ainnsd fdld5 rhe r}?e of pt.d rtfcdsdr ddn idvrkd pleu 6 lhirc box Plear er$!r Pt.nrg ar sc'ndrs 'h{ i.a'!rt roalied
fullD$-e*5 isolat.d in bdw{!

Fb. 3.@. fhs tufle. a ge\9i@

mPl&rd $sne!6 oI rh. nmt nnp<onu,$ bu6c of foldedful

lnldedbdxp]abdfuflbabmbly iEitu as r n@h@ n iaht curc.

-i =.

.:t=;
4-

( MahingFlounces
CTRCULAR
R4nrlra nEi+r lh. dudng

FLouNcE

Ri?i,6 ojn .@ins ndrdtr oI /

inne4!ho@* edge.TheronsEt edgendth9v*hdfo&'

2, choo* beseo a nource firh narcss .onnolledby rhedius or th rcund cu6ut in th oid' md rht hnglh ol rlr flouna . Thc smuu lhc ndius of rh.

PRocEDURES
cnd,njnda-'he Diond'-any dNde ni8hr Liie

cmesl curout. snrr rhe rhe

Fig+lciblsdi!@inbh|eei@ cu@ bat hecffi4 thetuttdened edseat he raw

rhe,li{rnnce beNrtn rh. .n ofrheloanng.dgth.rsa,

funlbalCina|cu@a|i1fu14' ro slun. a llouc, smpL In. cfid of &nrEr cdou6 6n nry 'hesn. in d.pdrandshghknd hng'n fieapplirim sn I Tod6ft a d(uLr noun( psc nen6, oncIor rh. n&!! oI lne ..nkl cnde and : *cond tor b, mdiG olrheou inedcii cks (G) in F8. 4'3).cut our the cinhr noun.. p{rcn 4. ro srin{e rhe febncnquin ne ror a Prdcurar cirdhr noun . applidddn (Fis +4):

c:LculaE rc l.nclh ot ft cir .urar fnrine on the Pdrem:

(a) 3urehenr in Fis +r) addi4 ' Ee6llnsr for flounc neFr b lne r4lius. s.ond lidE ouEideftc liBl

dEw a smlr cirte ffid. ft onh.ircl. Toinclude s hen allovsic ldr a frllh aPPriebrcJo cunj4 cdgr I (d* ro .rds. FinisLinsIor Rums" on pagt4]). Enr{se
R"b'applfufuMnred6ek.db dfunganngffifitand|tglclrcwn

ja,shr nir.h rltr guL,rcriNr

Fis.I 5 Ftmh sear ta) Mh tb) rin theseanatavrc n,axb hesean t )Fotdhsntusm, funireid'ul||ih|ighl9d8lrylh'

our|nrcLoq,! ,h! sift oP.ni!: qnl]rh'Fi]d'htrL.n{t$ Faudt sean: td) wih r shl s das toh6d and sew the :lnchina tines . nou( Fitr {id, ! ar6ihr. nhnd sdn abB cd 0 open ]fuNngo|'htn6rig.dgld

Fis.I 7 ra apet a laune ta a tD6 datbn ta) wh* rcrc af tatnes tbunceieht s@ q tb) sewa rotnce @ se up'nd nb t ove' b *an dowhcc b) sew nshl

edq$lbhnenbbelddalsan

(F1g 6) .oDRr rhr nouc! +

.lE'edb*ailh|en|U|heap'Ea'

.,lses,bosk rhc0oume,dghr sidetrp,ro l!. nght snL orfib sid6 rq.ln. iic #t. wift dehL q pi! bbn. .2 Ns bolhand suv rriFuehanhYG !q' 'o oI Mnd cdse rxbn.*z o!{ n@!.. .nd dgErirch rhmusn

sse he 4F\ n.oa a 6 ^ary l.) tabti, etur*n \cn krc@ anid/ \,

I*n. to which it G la.bed scs a facin8, ngh nd. doq,

[Nrc L mNdnrLy chaiging, i noun( ippljetro! lEds gninline b8linil E 'o hang&c eoe rdY on.ithqsful.oficmd|PdiilPh( rhe ni,ghleub ol r nru(. in tlt

lacins to lnE bi.k 0f the fab' ric dd lb. nou..e nshr 5ide

tu. biai of &. noune in tu anrs. Fn ltom.6 snpli.dh fttrldph

Ldg rcws dd muldpl. dc oI oounc.sGquR $c chrinins bgcdt s ofm,iv rhl6 Forshqt sws or floufts frrh nodeof b tum.l nrq . *gnnt ol tu entiE cidlar fldna Pakn my ]le :ll Lha'! naded Ior oft roq To balane 'llc sEiilin. on all roE Dd $v. m hb. ft s {dl, ,lisn thc *sm.ns i! io\s on 'h rabhcwhm ouhg dr

Fig'4lh+@.epMfu|a|a the tuthE (a)attd tud1tudins tbum b kbto 81,M ptntdbtu *2 ed bothwtthdqhtstu bgetha4 d (c)ph amtsde$ttdh thelutu ed@d|26fuPove|d]*dm .In:h.frtdtnent {d Bind rheldge whena floune lts on top ol dr rabncb wnich itn nkch.d 9.w a mrc{ ddc down,ovF 'ne uounc.l ovd rm rhelindrng sll $,o JloNbes rotheb{k. rnd *e fsbncunderd* nounc
sidc dM, ovcr rh. lbm ol a

NorEs & VARIATIoN5

A circuh noune go.aE ndt n,n, ,nd hg rdln6 by m@ulag,ng bltrig trprht *:m dc n {fthdt line Th. citulrhty ind dcpd oI 'ne flouE. pdtn, rhehbd. @mpd mnq ind $. olse ffdh Et ftlRt oidnal wYds d 6e luins .dgc.bura smooth b{ oI noun.c hbnc 4 th. sanlin. B, toBknr.

hat Fb 41o cdire sutue rcpeaE

fN{qD'd{*olippldbq

rt p.'l|+l) | hrh d$orrh.

\rh, r num( \ lrtrsrNtiu {an h hor rin6h,hecdse t0

i Nr,r bdf! md mn. rictorl

.rrdo /rourdb&ub

r$5n

]nftdul$5ndsddjdJ''3lug

lounc iFid. ar rHd lFig 4 r2) rf Lhl dsi

a$! or L(\!dr

d.prhorrLrc foufr rprr Glisl,rLi

((h) tr' [3 {f2) dipptrBll( 5qn

((O slishL h ris + 1.1). du!h,hr

f
t
Afretlnishlneths lsrre edee dus

(r I xn s.! rk Lnuat 'hr

lE{oc rsEs ri+, i . o(r irFl

(2t rrr re\5 o{ noun$ ue loo

1|q([ioidtlnrl0u((qljJ

Fie 4.s L) rwo.ndat torn.a s,ewrbseths lb) aDda?Pte wth .{ a r4}o(d io,,bJ( .,lgnr .rtr
la,,ldn!(.1!{! rl,! 5!ntnn.s or

nr[{

6 onr i .]hr( .r (a Ll'!,rp

^ r,,,r. dsar.tu ,h lr. d(

arot0'0(

'rr|lfus

!]) rorLl

qPrad !4c of dE nouc

beLo\:

.r.:rr i n|a

i! i,r

CoNTRoLLED

FLouNcE

PRCJcEDUtE5

Fe. I 13 ta) ra,sel Pabn wth tires ind.atirs tad tdrore @)lashed zrd equdry spread lc) Frat p.tdn

ld) cqta@

tome hade ttan

Lonih{Jj'L[!!d4.f

rl,. i!{o ! r0\.m(| ha Ddr

- \ -

ha $t he lasredindsirtad hb

(,

ir rr|5 r r3 + ro.iid

I
s slrl involeG inlom.d guca rclk Paddd.E lor tlE qid.dine fi {ill prcdua dishr nppLs, nodek w!v6. or lavBi Iolds i! r dr flodrs .dg. ,ie .{n$sd c, r vholc lot. sln.hhriHln sonsh4e in berw{n addiion rlly, rh. chanden{ns of thc inknd.d f1btu .nd dr finnh applid ro rh. no:dns.+.lill afccr rh rypEErc dI iny sn'ounr ot flared rulln6! Id bdoi final. nins a lonhll.d flonn.e pdtfr nounc afrer it is appli.d, rlmgc lh. fl:nns n lnr noiing dse io oI Efl<r $. inrcn'idns rhcpnkr {hiL rhc flounce n han8ine. dr drau..ndpi! b a nrsu kt

Lik chuhi 00urc6. confrnd foun.6 rnayte ldrd.d (*d or Applyrhc$lecEd Iinishb $e Finislrhgl.r fum.d,on pict 4:]J, hurif rhenoune is l.ng ry lron alEr$. ndunc L ,ppltd Ld n hrng lor 1t houE b allo! rhe podoN lo.atd m the bus b drcoPs. dh n dm\ md d'm oI th. dlhd) and/.rrk{ds.d (tuo nounfts fisnns our b dresid6

Nolfs . VAR,ATToN5
nouncc wonrNork,acorhlled olr ptrricuLr applioibn unns ihe slshrDd.prtd .hniquc of patrr dncLdph?m.i connolled nounrc bc!*irbly nrEd dth cn drtp loL'lslor onep:n of rh. noit in8 4e and delilde nppl.s cke {hd. wnh a onhlbd nouncc, hrd to spdfic l]ordoc oI 'h. b.rwmn noari*edserh. sparins rceul.trY|A conhll.d floun.ecan b. devi*d 6 hll wih equ,l n,n

t. s.q the flounceb nd hbrn, *h.ft lhc piurn hdlats b l.t rhc nounft *anline nfth the (d) h Fiss +r3.4rs. +20). E nounc in r nann( 1Prrc. pnde for rh. lppltidon Gdd 'd F1g!. r'7. 4 3, and r 9 on

--^-

\/"---\-

-".\

J MahingGode*
Goorr
obioun.ed Hmdhfthi.f cdgt .............31 the foedis edse r ttli p re. A 3cd4lsedon ot

L{1ll<rh. pdcn, fim nr wrcnesid. r rabic$$ oI gdin, dr m& dt dly on tlrc

rlonrh.poinron rh*n.

PRocEDURES
l For ech sodd, shd . poinr icide tnepdh or 'ne labnc $h.n fi. CddaMII b.gtn i6 srnd. The dndne fmn poinr to lo{s .dsc .quelsthc lmgh or $. god.r aid inclld6 , hm . lt ll.I ic b uBemca, connd sch point b the lower dgefr'hasftjghtsb+lh. pclpcidtu|iib&ccdgt,

lowq .dgc lbr sodd i6don r. udns a l)Ebtud or srdg .omprs nt ro tf,. lmglh ol Gc sond. drslt the so,ld p*tem. .ircle. Esdhac how hu.h 0f dr .imnfercncc goddshould rh. addro dr algc whcE tr trll bE inined rc achrd. rh. dairtd

snaishtlb6. EbHGbEg 'L wtd'h or lnc godd at ln. low .'lse (nor thd sld hnrnin8 th.ddrL dlloauEeE. {ba 16). Add, ah ,lldw ina ro th. {nl8hr sids ol ihr .ftulnscgmbl ((cJ s (d) in Fis. 5 l). Thep*Em is Eady ro

lb) sen qenirs, kb dtich (c)

3. Curour llc sodd f@n &r'i. lolobs ft. pd.d of .he parm or ic turtd ddin . Irr c@ts ais of a sodetis slwels mrhcd b ln. nFrghqrain of fte Lbric. on ft. goddl vbng ddE,ryk 6e poinr sLc lh. sid. rannn6 mer ar rhedp. the sid! sntinB 5 u.u.

angl. f6n th. lqs edse ro th. SDdetlp.dt d Bch sideot rh. slshlim ltund (7.t.n) squueor olE|ea

b. slill trp @ lh. honanbl stircl 3t rh. poinr. Rend. rh. bctinsipull dr ninforciq nu.r b the bck;

,llo*mQ. Mrh nght std6 63.thq])inmgthdr.

. Inb a 5a oFned sodd 6 bng'nwi'nnghdd6 toS.thq and .dse nrtchjng, ph E*ch dr |astnncf, oI ll. sb ,b.r fte op.nh8 ro rhepoim ol rh. godd, ,!d ph oe sidcot dc god.r b on std. of lh. op.nin& ses dr! lowr eds., bscksdrhbg { rh. polnl Arkh rheo$d sidcot lne godd b lhe oth( sideof dc op.ni4 wh.n frnGhd, brcrk b.N.m fte rhegodcrslu ald th. sn abov.shotrldb. tnpftAdbl.

porh! rle ErntodnS of

fte squrE, nrchin. snGn sm b th. goddl point. andbGG onesid. oI fie god.r b dr dd. dl &. op.tus!pbddbdn &. oths sid. of fie soAd b dhh ,nd @* lh. bas! ing {(c) rM (d) in Fi& t 3) rrc $. god.rbs.m auow.nc. bwlrd fte frhnc 4 ln. 6p of 'h. sddd. ,$out y (2.rcn) 6 2" (5d) b.td Ac pdbt, dtp op@ (d Dd c) i! Fis. 5-3). sodd md rL f,bn. on rhc sid.s.

sw down fte o$s sid. ro

((a)and in ru. t 1) O)

NorEs 6 V,4Ri,{TIoNs
alrhoqh dingukr god.c ,r Eul. godeG wide 6 r nru cirle a .nd 6 lar8ea a tull orre {e I*i bl. wh.n .xcQdonilly ltrsh,ltu wid. s'a.r oI labric with $fffci@t Uy b nmd o$ and dwry fFh nddng .ds. s L prcj{c u.l6 fie lor{ .(l3. is eron3ded who dr sodd E ddsld (Ftg.t4). lflhdgodd t wld. andlong, brne dMppliotioD ror 1+hdE b.fon L.minc to alow fte lt6 oI rle &bric b enl. lI fte hbdc te eii andloosrryMYa &e eodd is lhbL b $s lron i6 satr u.l6 alov.d & sftGh out htorcln*! don rLry tn. sodd rloE Ib p.br for 2,+ ho!6 bdor sdng tnb th. aIF bitlubs ln. oqaneo<Ld wltd pLdg , hd ftrtudt fdr sod.6, bBidd lh. d.se of cuse at fte ll@dns edsdoI fi. o{ th. lib' soda de che.tsttu n.. and thz .fd dI m .ds. finish on dr. swe.poI fie no*. "EdAe hrshjls rE Run6' @ page4l dc.nb6 p6{biXc: Fd Llc. sle sodes.dd b thse choicc a de.pq,sinsl old flar hn,6d .rclnd rheoft, p.rh.p6 Mth ' slbbte srill:tue l,id iGid. rhe rhe hndlzt ^i4.de. B panlir to sod6.!t s@ E a squd, !$illy or lrgh., d.lidt r.nric. on comft or the qure b{on6 rhe poi ol th. sod.q.:ch sideo{ the q@re .qu'b rheld$h oI ft. gddet.Fdi so sid6 dr th. squre, $l.cr sn .ds. tDish ihsr lsvoF a sofi,nuidno.r (F8.5-5). Afrer A. squd l(F3 to r floatinspobt

*lIre

golld. on. h,lf rhr hbdtd

'hc sdn JFE Gis t0) Al'ludr J nod{ sodd iumlida rurng rod{rhe pftdutrs. r hsx dd strusc Borhndc ota mocLt sodd tJll oo thc bhs or th( rabrn. Ihl!.Ir nq h{siq b !4 Ituh 'h.

the pdht at a skh, @)nave the slashkredhelowgellge'il (b) tMte the setun* tude F'955'squa|egafu|c|eal$2 handk'chb|edqerhefufuE.t a

Fb 5.s. a ctu 2'nack sa'tet Ftuth nr *Rnlrns lxiihe .!xr ItuE lhe dde l.) tn&dt6 the paht whetea

u!l1hlPcd5l,5hP$nrirsnMn poi brr plic bddrslishmJ rmli,$ on dircor slrn6 Aodd sd{ring rris.p.on (rrg i6) arl,.d.ubu, add rcundhs dr Poi ol rrr sodd rqmrLas r{ aaD arLo\2n..-s r dr! rdp, bur rt5d is i dnririvt h{nR of'ht h!!.

needd6e dirpns to acemndate eaet hsetlifi fhe bundedth al

tun. dh! lodd oPfl,i"ss d rhr aunNs bN:rd Ni pa !n6 ifr. sl,npsr sqld hh,j. lion slidrng btliirl rhe i6{do! rdrs (rig 5j)

c.l:aT9

Systematic Folding

,\

$ Pleating
. Hmd-Fo@.d Aaonlion PrtsingPrlats ............ 39 sehmins Fkr .nd hd.l . MiniA(ordron Pledns... lll fleG .... . .......... .............s0 . (nife Pl.tu . Bd Pls6 Prcclduro...... .......... . S1 . .. Nor6 & \'.riarioB.. .. . ....112 . 6ntid toor sonerrmB het, nsn, rnd prG$r iE 6 muchs psi dl plar prpennon * n*dle md rhnd ai othd dna, 3rahbs rinishd 'n. Jdb,Pr6dins I dErul am'sm.nL dI EUins rotds. Thc! mon ro pEdry rh. toltls oI n't plnial ])leb db dElP, lsrins"nd .Ma dranpDpd $hs df dE coturs on r rbh. Aftq hsdns lh. plar amnsmenr, , gdde prusing d,h 5ten nek6 $. pE, lmhly c6a For fi. ffnrl hsrd pr6h3. s bud sud,e i5 doE .m.idt fo! tal!. apptodons ftd N..dlefom.d plc,rins .ns $e ffiw surtc of r nguLr hin8 bqd. PhpaEa abl. ropMd1 elefuqg',..'.'.'''''',','',',tt3p./r,-g-hy6 of btihk r d brels covmd \1lh shding, undqDrd sirh dutuun roir.lI sing i ngure rDrins bofld. hick ir w ssii${ i hbl. or ch.n ro strppd @fisns
ToeE[ihPrinting.rnN. ,[ piE,nd b3sds lnEds frcd rhe fi6i snup of plac b b. p6ed. Aense rh* pleib d! lnr

PLEAT BAsrcs
PRrssNc hEAr5

Pl6r bpnikhinc . ......... 9, pka.ng . .......... 9,t ........ unddlays.......... .....94 PeiL.rP1a8.... .............94 ' se.In Pl.a6 .'.''.'.''.' '',','',','',s3

. IIF+Fold rnd a{r.Fold

. Rorrb{kcdddce Pl46 r carridc. Pkac... ............r03 Prc@dursfor b4 Pinch, ertridSrPlE6................101 cobtet plas.. .. . .......... 106

'dshrnins. and,rEnlry into c

.oftr posirion. To pnYEll th!

s.h.rddge Ple6........107 Dur.d .inddg. pl.aB .. r07

Nob rhis ch,prr bqrB vith B,ASI(J,hdietd by r graybmd loskd undqEdr d. nl.v.nr

oucr roldsrioE revins ,n rnpn., i! on dc r,bic benuth, phrt r sdD orhrcm !sp.i .!t slishrr vidd rbn Prar dcprf,dd lohgd ih:n plst r.ngr\ iBide rhennd*, lold of dch plL b herEed

tum 'h.Irbn. to r]t o1h{3i

p($ ddh '!Lo x solurion doar

( rl[rLerG Dddnr on top

unpE$edpllrb, Ng t]t foldsh'o hxngiIg.oi,iEn8c'h.foldswl'iL phd,g rhds$ ro x P.dd.d ir Load iab pLnn'ng raclor rolds, !ed!r( sddc t]t xEo8cmdtr b! Novd sloq4laborc'h. sunmcd nE Iabln Aro{ ro cool rnd drr

HfMMiNG F!,4T I

P,4nrrAr PrE4rs
whci rrl!:hs lmgdrv 6bnc, Gbn. .rc al\qs snuiEd mobh' sivdr uDle$rb.xppln{on rnd ir I l.dilB ednBtn.ir nmke uDrvonLibr., Nc rosr joinie ronnirr nn PhaG,plRrtjoinins ssn dn rsu Iolds,or cmrtEd Rndfdi,l pldr prt{m piobl.ix ! r! hmoi8 th.n .n s! oprionr$h.nndlfsu, rh.*ao rlto{rie (l) Pre$thchnlrft,ld and {an rlloNrnc opcD nr Im'n rh. loN( eds.h,hc d.pd oLrlr hcn Iur up Lh. h.n andnith. cdnhtr. ofrh. hmro tree rrom it (2) lkn, s.h ptce oI trbri! ft{.
'lD*NsI!(sbge'hei

!tus ir our,aDd 5prsd'h. drfrp

.ldh Nd 'hr pk$. Pi.$ widr a

on ro rht n.xt sroup oI plu. {r0.t0n) long, to tFund fte Iolds Lhcy cool \14rco,ll rht Pl.ac hav.

.srdr mrchhs 'h. h.n ldlds Fom 'h. plg,s Nrh ihcjoi,rins h disn.d ro in i,rs rold Inn rht *nn allolanesdLsddrur b cdL.dgcottu *nrllownrs rlr dqnh oI rhehem(Fis 6 z)

hor ron und rn! dol|l tsdry hollins rh! ilon ftnl) h plac to 5$J n$m dN! 'hou8h 'h. rolds

rh a{ d ifipdrh!

hsh

fLA T TLEAIS

E-ilri
lRersb"PhaPrcis on Palee0)

Fit 6 3 la)Anatnnr at a tat Dteat tb) rwes at ibt prats.Aran@nenE

.ea .^d tb) dip abave he hen.

i.rrs, 'h.r pl{6 \l,fr hnrirc r'r,rtroa q! i| run ir! lil) L tr.n 'r'fr iacddr LlL. fhrs L ! i n L n L dh n rhn Llffhrj

q,f rdiar.rr.01,rn

iin

D) o rttr.ilir Lh! rlNu

adjalor pLlaG Logu , eu D

Fb 64 ta) rwa ba' da6 srh aDtet hn{ rattuede*tfthed and paht bM tb) tnvetud deal withBtaase painb taweted tndsidy lc) tuite pteab k rcteas

dr d6ieirl

rl.A!

poN'

oIlh. ri nn. told {!h pltr

lirlr rosdhrL

b.'!.k (ri)

Mo larc!.1hbf.

'lnD,lr rL

sid. rd ph (Ndr 'h{ r

5urlgNdgrj'nf,[uout' {!h pler (hE DW rold L a o odd B!Bi' Eil, 5lisordip

btr\*o'|dldsdplkdi.Nllnts

soirdivo (t rr rrs 6t

nn.h l.nldN ((b) r Fis 6 u Fs. 61 Fenonde pbd natkhgs la) td tulet tatds, td btukertihes ptacnent ha

lb) Fd nteed platshs

Noffs

t VARTATTcJN5

[nr.

box ,i

DwFd ohr!{.

a a.nent tha tusted losethet lb) hEred ptealeentetedand ptnred ahel r) badins the taa hes toselhetznd b

pl.rc 6Pleic lt

ir i!o) d{P (ar

," (r i.n) n,drlftf

ror lrh.orci loLd)\rh.irr naLh ('h! mn{ rold) dtd{ma

'a{ 0 sm) t@n ttu tdlts thrctsh pain|'andlh|aughfua]ayx|a .@se the pte'l tde penaDedt d snn rnD'kngrhr{,

bd[

(Rdf

xrnDlrs

qq\!r

tl|f

n, | $'Ds tsh,

f1)ldfli. h.n nro rh. fioarns

(d, o) F,rs+rir.h rkarroLd. (.1)E(itssrrl, Lun 'ht tup

d'!i P{hal Plcdi u, p!3. sol mcs as h,d lrtr oe ti!:r of

.s cltD'oo (( L b shhiif,trg

Grturedsfuhtri{ oo prBr6

sndurus rlfr si. \[h ,hc\mull d oDrop(.i* 6 tol Do,blrtldi

lIPh'rlls'!341,|sLl(LLLIIlol

hon:onhLro\s otpl?,nor tanq lo|(ncLrb( (Iin 6trr) ro prcvon

UnI.,lar ov .lEnseir dr 'L hLflt !i'H. r Lhrbrd! or h\ {trJ

b4(o is idF(r Dftr fold5

fs-rr+i,srh| t h'i! Db h! lorL.r,hd sol {!ord ,hnd df

plurds \nL 6'n codi,uou' pLlia rt" (^.nn 22" (56on) drli 163lu) lnlLl' ol i plctr( n,i's rh. Mdrh olrrhL,n f lrD qr\c pla, dt|Lhbr'r'(Lod q 111" o 5.n) \fnr,n 'hR rtrnrdi$.

,\klL hpnnfnDs. .nn r]I ta! olrh. rMsloLds (nod ldN{o

F96.9Dhgara]t@lleh|ngha|

Fa611|,ahEde|lFfublh

Dolrhdo,,i/.drkdlrlglrro

rrt Pd ter rhdq

r a 5iiPh

lo{ pktrB No a kns,h ofhhr. N n h o uP i o ] D a n d r g | j f l f i l r A

Fig6laexp]ealswrhlhelwa fupled'andpba|dephsslaqgered'

E
:

t t

I t

h--a

PARTIAL PLEATS

b<nve.npl.it (pl.rt,l.pfi

pls

qrrced.ild61ftd) (r) tngrh or

p.inB.There ,rc eo kbds of Pdia

edg. ({) r.ngd oI i dd lloE

rnr or bd p *E rorm.d b/ kwin8 spe.hllr dBrsisd ple* sen riotr roedheii Inve*ed p sE Iom8d by ss is uidtrL:}s beeeen 5pa.1 y dsiqnedple! *ctio6

Ad,l r $onl pd(.d rohn md( lay tb:t dupliln6 tu und.dold .rEEid al dr sid6 or adjoinn'e pler *.dons ((t) in Fie 6ll) (l) Dfi e panrn ro! th. shap.

I
:

d,gh y longd.nd muchwidd $rn rh cltour 5h,p., 'mo an dfknil], bo:, or 'iEqS.nc irvtrtrd plrib (3) PGirion the plerE, rtrroutovd $c toldd

PRocEDUREs

oFn ind pmdl Iol'rins guid& (Fig.6 r4). Avoidlo.idng pler un,l.t{olds bo dd* ro thc sid6

En,blish the folowhs s6urc

(t) cur s n$rpld{dtus requircd, curhg abund theou! lirE oI 'hep,,rn or lolLqin3 a rm.inedf & patrcn.(2) Mln 4ht sid6 h.ins. 5N 'hc pl6' dioE bgei\{ oP.n xnd sprad our o) M6uic 'lrc dePth ors.h ptr rolsrc : mdch wh.n foldingmd uniry se Dleb in $e d6iEd rlfrrton lzsE sch pkd dibugh sll la]es (4) Ar,$ t[ppng sn' a[ov@.6 blrtrLsepoi'6.Pr6lhc sim sl(Mnc6 lbsr ln. Plst qresioc opcnand[aL Itrshtlr (Fig 6 r5). PEs ln. pl.r' rards

(.)

(b)

Fis.6n3 la) PaM tora Bdiatl'..at at bax+teat mdenfu. @)Patun td m invetudpreat unddtayuDtdupt

rr Nm loll!\Lrsr! qtrLDr

NoIIs

t VATiJIT]o\5

0 ar! or rfr

rLPlord

(tr5

nta a cttort tseeFs 611tat lhe

nirgs .h9s'nlhas,ry
of Lh! oi&ls(rois &Ddnr(Lr

{d] P|d !\LtDsjdi llrB d ]!)

h]D.\ronsnJ. ur hx{.,lr

ltr urd.{o

d' ?Lrcidf fuudDn ri Ll

l!.1

r,j

i {

i:

PLr.A.Ts

PRocTDUREs Bor. FoR PrNcH,PiPr Olt6aN,

AND ROIA/1CK

C,{RTRD6E PrrArs

rdrc.rprr5,r!sliLq

lLerld13{L.L!dud]rLlL!tr]P

(r) For s.h pLta flaren rh!

-.'l'
Fi1.6.2dla) t@dins tu'ted tu @h$a|hesilao|echp14| atawm. (b)senln$ dtugd tue9thet s6N 'tq i6t atu he

(2) rops'n.r straishr :m$ rh. h,* dr lht p1d {h.c inEp.itu ry *R,n ods, o. hcr 'h. mil( toldsb fte lrb!. b.hind xnh

b. ol, ft ngh sidcorlhc 6hn!, dnide rehudhs nrd$ 'l'! bp Db pl.{ allo{R,resscna rukrl by spr.6 bdw..f pl*

b.r rlr plcxruid{folds virh hllrd endrhs iridble o! 'dp

(r) Ftr alh p1.a,diidc thc

lin6 ontnher oIu.h side

p{rl.l,h.lold

(2) Pushins 'h.

c{rD& nnLgl,tilNn toN dr ,opro Rpointnishnyrb0! $r lo{s .dgcot rhe|kn hadrog

clvlhthtIl8hlsiltdlsjd.. s?mlin.s on lnhr5id. df och pldallo\d& rogdhs

tqnal plers. rq! on .nhd itl. ofineCdc[Plgtd.lmcdbylhe |jlB n' dr.lop.dsc, radi the loldtd smngan.nl ro tht Pdn. or Lhcrhr.c phic b.Iorc rcnoe iq8 Lht pins. G) Ai tu b*q sr.ur rl[ lbldin8 rilh nuchhr nrchjns Lhar ro$! <h1ghrour pt@t: (d) erd be seIndary sean lb) Re.brd h. pteat atta@rce, cs em o ln. frrrchcddd {olds, or hand h.k r lolds ksdh.r

rhr lolds \ill beerucrhar rcd hb Prei&'he Pki,s

suhdivide {l) Forach pkRr. ldngr! rtul prnlkl ro, rh. pn

(2) collapi. Lh! phd allqsrtq crrlng 'h. *.oidr\ *an' Fp dse. ucr thc Lwo sJFs rsdhr G) ceruEg 'h. loo* nikhir8 nnislr (ro'r all rolds

inia the pbats ad Enaw he pins.lc) ptaatina at ld) hand ta.l 2t the x pasron.

a la) Estabtith pn s8n lb) k dd

'ng t fr$ polysE ffb.lffl|, or i"*n inb rh. pltd an$ruc a rclLot ado[ht or odd sll|.iins Ite. u.k dE qlildr. at rLcrop rnd bs.. b 'ht rabnc b.hird ir Fis 624 ra tm a taut.dd pir* pteat: centu aN hnon thdphartad ta) creaseat he sides.tb) fuh 'rE sde cBA hstdab k3 qimry ean t be bas at bP Ph-w 6 @t^a^d ddeIninrrysam(Fc 6 26)

Fig6.^t"awedqdrp|@6'

,,_i

{l).u@chPkr( h,gccu* 'hnds,ndk rhcL\iid dlBr b lnE

,4b b@ heqer

pbeE dnd 4.o,e

ba nnr t ) td.r dt D4

at Fa -

fi{ pann.l &r s4 (2) Holdins nn uP*hr, oll:p6e rh. pkii

( I ) Fol .ich plEt, 0!&n rhc 'nl ebrr foLl ro rh. pnmry rtam. ['ng{ q4* thc rNo nev (2) Psh 4.h of rh. side q66 .rarinc tour .qual-si-d ple6 $de {olds b rh. pim,rji m. F,ncs prt* ,he Dewourr tokls (r) sdr E d.{nbed Ior rhe

corr pld h rh. rop.4q hck e rro inns rbrds &. ptur) re
ssn. Fis{ ct! il lotds bdoft

remvins rh. pins o) Ar theba*, haDd rhmugl ,n $ne pla6, s.k ddbs rhctoldol $e 3mlbr plet d ,ir@Er (r) runins rh. loldsof ln. ddPla6 dosr b lne hednr& b& a.h ouEr lold rorhepdmry san ard.

dn.hinc r]]c0ngd{n6.d 6E ro rhePin.*am.Fingc Pns tu ,qy rolds dredd6. (3) tuDor dc d Pns,rr6ng No inrrio. pteb rrh rom I suPpod 'hdde fd! q'<ior pld trhnh .unts a6und folds dr strftundiq Prdro ol

(l) Foi ah pleq dili lc Gc lold

Mrh x b{ orPiG ${ p*a[.] ft! {old. c) PBh fic Pin-sm doM @$e Pnnary s.d, sPloding rhc pratr a]loNad.s bdR.n lni Pi!*rm dd d. Pnmlry sn dr ro 'he sjds. Thr Pl.r6 rom.d ar &. nd5 dll be Nrr s ddp 6 $e

sean, tnd tb) stand the pteatrhih E.tab@ be @ ateatatbwarc lc) FemE the DLa tdt the s!tuc eat dnutu b thc tuad,o aad stEr6 he oubt tdrs besitu tu tha' sean.

t. rbnh lne n6'dg rdgr of rhc lngk rold hon. To h3ru, 4rch LrInwEbaredor'g'.Jn']'.rt.

of nid'h spi.c Thelm31h th. ,fthd hbrn btur! 'h.

l, IsdD,e dr hbt. ftqrtE

b,a of ach pla' b 'h. rabrt

Norls & VAxL{TroNs

con,parins prcj(rng rleas rhr snul.bo: pl.ebrn $.1.*r
,limensionrl Nilh doubled boi

prc$nr 1hc hny it doelr spaced. Rdlbr.kdnii'lg.plu6.whnh look like snall. rsr. pipeo,Ean

pns.d or unp'sed orions. pro. j.dingpr.,r hLrunnEsed fton rh. spnid ol rh. folds,rg rd $rckc r lol(Gbdq(D h.adins rnd heminlo flo{iru rcsdarnr
gou 'ne anngene kEPddli\ loo$ly wappedan,l pinled rcund thehmglglJbdcs6Ewhd

vidrl, rcquncdlor rlenlng oeJ l!bn. { long6 rht ta'$r cho*n dqnh ol rlrepl.d hcd r h6dLn3s {i,lc s $. sby br_ 'rhing 'lt rol, ro rh. backr reis slfcr drcrmL'.k drh inkt{r'

pls6 oD hc dplcd Ior laish Iull. o$ h 'hc hrnshc fabri. b.lo{ rhc j.crins plcb sn bc .oDbinedin rhesme h.a,linsro Er) d. nrucd.pdloL lh. lotdsnl.adb) rc

ro bc hompnuos, sams Fhins lenghsof Lbric shoul hll oo l

Th. pkar elloNinrt.an bt subdi idcd inro 6 ,nmy roLds r|r rabas ft {ill sunah, aDd rhc folds can be !a&d Lndtp'h a \dl s'lmng duDs6 rhr. fold pinchpls6 inro 3orl.! Phn6 \xrh rhe slo in!, Idlds bdve! 'he plRE u!,rtuhed d rhc rop. polyc{d lib0n fora rhe pleft dur n$ Irom tht pimh

PRoCEDURES FoR CARTrrDGa Pr,EATs

(rd rdllbrtk aairidB. adc, dr ro"Prcftdurcs plgt l0r) or hbn. b mnch aller ir js plakd

lidrh srre or the narr*!{drd mnch N'h dnl|ll.ariq!pln p.rpcndicuhrinnlin$ on dE nay Dnr! p.rpendi.ulxrnnlhLne lo{s cdgc iht tunlrck (u* or sBh) (t od (h)h r,e 6 2q) AlisnDB Lht rop?dgror rlr hb Iir 0 th! rop.dgc oL$. nrti I)in mrch sch nfuhils lh. on
,lt fabnc b iE con$PordDS

orsan pLca6oar Dccda,ldiioul hlkins x' 'hc rop. b$id. rhe prima' q {Rn rc pbem 'h. pl!-r' Iorm ion f,on flopprlg loflad or Mb blhs froo sid. ro sjde Fjns,PEs '4 rd iqtr!8 lne 5hcMd Iolds $rd6 $rt da'gdndr

Intte nl.Risphnnd for rht hr plene,l hbric wnh a ,loublt- or .u*ing ptujr.lon for ach oI hbric oi parq ro a plar
stqle'foldhenlohi!8,lk.b

.i.x,in3 , Packcdm6 or fordsdrt)

: rln.k .dgc (t) in Fie cro)

lo, ofrabn! ro akuiatc fi. amoun( pld a br suip dr tubri. 6 dnered jn dE lolloMng,xnddu.h ror a. n.sur ri. pl.4ed hbri. reded 6

l
NorEs I VairATloNs
rs,sd or a n4i atigntdb $. rop rh. Dkxrd Lbnq bbn. m,y or h. plaEd ro r,\c lowd .dgt of hbnc du' c{.nds abs dr plrd{d hb. d6isn.d 1optu}d i lirle o. : lor dder PleaEsby hbnc stbtrld hc dromr. a wdr 6 funcrioni. soJrernils. PrcdsrarL , hb dEpeiGrad ol psj.dhg our{ar,l. rords rhrdhP. ro doP..$chb ol nc NaDe pu pl' nui be ntrlh widd $an rhc$kMllokd p.r pl.{ o! lh sbr Tl[ $rr shoud b. rpprupii,crr drP eid rq@rinms arrdl.Pt(6, dr spk h.ed Plss shnnk b lne

aodrnglr,Tddnlhcp|66. 0 ) md rhela oI dr fsbri. on th. hsd,ng rrbalk d$ nrc unironr s$ ol lrrridR'anrly,Fted do6. Thetlishre bd{en rncdoEets &EdplnoI r]t plsb {2) tun{u dy 'nud ii andourof $. do6 in ech w Gig.ell) md saftci Fd! ins $c tabnc J.ely r,y.rtd do rolds G) sundingrhpke6 on tntl sri . {ill. rqq n}: tuk 'heEn ot och loll rd,rE 3ry 116r aroos rhe roP.rhen tht borcn Gig er2) I

J'_v--!/__\f--]-^

1-\/-\--Y-\'.-/--\.--\

rig'342'T*ingheb$alb'fud. adddgeplealla]d'basbybe|m Touru.rh ,h. sP4insoI $e lotds, n*k rhr shr M'rr nrc dorted suid[D6. a dor iDr $$y idrh jnb a

agehdndg.el*|prces adrd .c'|rilt. ,r.d6 icn like ' dsfiL ii rheanndgc drSor): Theplcr6 xn fo@Edon g:uscd "Ga'hcdns Merhods Plse4). on

rdld Gnridse pknrd hbnc bm.d o I sq Prcj4s ous?'d bdorc tallhc in rivLh for& ro rh. floniDs qte. rh. drhade Gbcn.r,e Nhm ,ht 5br erdEhs : solidlom. I dr hbnt tskB ninandrh.pteb hnty dep. l[ft.d anndg. pleaam *lI. 5qPorirga shd upnghr or .xhd rikc a shdf hor rh. ray

\!id$ ot oft *in L\nr lurs a dEp {ne} beMcn rhc bulging .!16 on

'i:

t! 1f t! '

T
*

! I

t ',1-

a-t

t---:-7-

AccoRDroN
PI EATS
d brdr, Ganns proicc ig P 4$

ro ds spred r ran r1 { 3!m)

BmF) rrr

mc.h s y formed

HAND-FoI|I{ID

AccoRDroN PrEArs
form D-, ford. bdN!o,r,.

,h. str?,ghrr!!:. dl r iifi inP oI rords sb.rPlf qrrel L

.uLstrlul!,hf rmuDr of hhn.

(b)

qa{lh.|oLdlthljluo

NorEs r VARTATToNS
r/ (1r..t spreidofor. n.o'nir plc{ f.n m,Lrhelt @rc nid noni or sulL.r D dtp(hs

Ds Lhr rcp ol rh. pk&d

rai-

nkhr.

m.h o{r sch h&k o lJgrr. or lbld md ss 'hEhld plq's Rlrr tj.ssnrs lid cslh roLds nat be pdmorLr rix.d Fig635AIfuianpha*'|i!h|ly !(d on pld.d hbrf n l]ql

j|31|ELow{rdaldIthtnav

rh.in ?nd on, roldhBLmptrb{I

FoR PRoaEDURE5 MI 'rAccoRDIoNPr E,{TTNG

'r!n'a x 'h! tuLfr (R.r. h nloddns PLiterod pagt 126)

n. ts accordion-rleftd. th! trn'lr n

cahldled2|lhe|rpwhanback cBaseszG|Jpsn.hed|aaslay

oplmDr\.lhLo\'fleJFd|

foLd rht nar wrh rqudDudl r. spd)s Ger( b'8ukd crtddgi

ai,lt

hp eJse ill.qt

h)

rhtad vakf i,h\ 'loubll lold rD rhd LB insid. rh. pldinsrhr.d rrong rhrad or !,d ruo'h!,ql, rhc folds. rrk thEplcrtr 'n'o . (Fis 6i6i

Ld'!,

sdr jdnns rnn |tcs

riqnmqr

gf (F.rrins[Dg

Fg64T,Handsrkhingasbyave|l

Nrorls t VARJArro\'s

(I) cu,a iDpe,)

o f r h .r l , r ! l r r r n r nr r
rrl F0[,-iic d]! L?{ rtr\

lEr

rrl (ur plrr hbn! Iq

'h|old'r]IDfil]][\lllld||p( 'lKiJ q trol']h..\|nd

sF.|].!l]'l'1\luLrL]s' rfd cr rlr df N.r

Lh. r!rJsorr(hinm

h tonn.d

.rrnd

ribn.

o! Pra. 6 )

rl.i

h\ hind foli$i,sagrrdor

t!I(b.[oAlshsmdkhg.oo

--

WRINKLED PLEATING

|ab,jcliqh|lyarcurdabnaml& Ddlod) nur he onnft.n

PRocEDLTRES

sP ild .nr rft hLn. ! l,n, r E

\!r rib( hps f ir n0) \ijd! \rnd 'rrr n l'iir) fi.( unl rLre,. .d hbr r (jrrd! !o!(r (.r 6.I)

t ro irbilie

brcoinnickphring.
innft' ofirs PrePJcarnN Modiri cnors.l.ng.lhrtosul' Fdr

dbr

requics (F0 aPnrnrne

ric fo! hroomnick pl. ng: EnhE.

dionrk{i

34.on pr8qLrl )
ro\5 li$Rd of rhnd srhfti,g hbn. imnnd a a..h trLm!.{r doN oI drc mlLd li'bLn utrboutrd. hnsd ofbindrDs. t|t rorltd ft

NoTEs VARraoNs &

suchn5.hnu sirr( and iishrNoglir !non. rrtc bci Loqrhlr.d pl. ingn{hdd5 Ih{ roounr oI rld rullD$s apl)'opnaE lor r|[

Addqins tshrLy dh .ord rorlr raldlE rnd nnring I rcc.du{s ol

ait{ PLdi,s. sids ot rhc hmdnntr'pl.lrd hbnc m nor tunnflbn pr.arcd fabic \!i n| tls

llered hbnc into r ioll rnd son Lod{lrind kccP a dntrs o. h \i ru o $c rtasa orwn r.!i phrhs. bu1 pllas cn l,eEsr rhc
N rtphLri lhe p(paErh and

Pre'i3 rh. LIooNftk ndhcd pioduc .i4E5 rod cnss rhn

coin.idc u]]l rh dh4ml foud lar.nD8-bu subsequnrN!*$

DoUBLECoNTRoLLED
PLEATS

$rh rht rnieL n&s wLs Lhe plscoism@sbbiledr* I, fte hlds orrdl<dc ,pplrotu's pL'I $nh rh..ooFntion orllm thbtu m LskJ 'o a tul 5hr

,u.k wh.n rh br.k lolds o{.a. ddst 0 h?nd lonfd erodidi plos aE nreline5drhed tu r lim pl.rmg .nrbl6 dl supponinB. dim brcorudct, o .dirddn plu!

ndmmg* mirc|no\'td slowlyibo\t rhcsurl&eof rhe hbnc AlloN b @olud dry

PRocrDL'RES
l. sdd , pld qpc rh{ euiB d'. iir sids of rhd labdc,tbloqng dE lloaduE d$qibed for Lhd 9?. orplsn$ (Prrl pl*b.ir

Nor6 & V,4&ATJoN5

Prd4 $tu'b6 trDt rcquiE F, ronned adiaclt on td6 (ll PkaG alsE of rh! hbnc. bEing Lh.roldc
b lmEl8e { d hgk D rh. ftnre

srrlu spRd our aid buncd i! L\c .om'g.ios s'gs6t smock,de $niL. rrLiliins. 5hiIt rhed!&non ol |ht|oldldr\nnk|6aid[u!rlt N.&rk lonnl rr.ditrs t !!iqur,

2. sFLiliI r pktu d hoth ods 'he pk,,td Eirh{ udslhrnar $!dg'lt.dgcbmd|trPice of hbnc, or nrbilic rirhdur u sLus befoth"nd, a rpprc pni,. Id rhc tibnc ,nd t[c rquiEmms of ft parricular

(1) Plub lod.d on on. .ds. ot ,he hbric qirlr tolds $ar dwindlc od 'd ndhhsn'hcorFTiEEdgeIh. hisd panrm dd ne sl6h.d al pl.n looioDs. IoLlonins th ilEnd' d diedion dr 'ht kilds h.n' !Jg. ,d rd+, and spreadro dlow lor i ptrdu ctold4 dcr,!s 6h Gq diRdior adrptablero pl.ahs. dc! b "r4re E+. 6r'hsmg,

pidous narkinss or e! $iho dns plarErioD. rlsf & bp ligt ol rhr dFLhs rah.n b dr bp .dcc olx nrh nrlla. sdflmed n*

wdrkins tum rtu topdo\r. pullup

a lold Nirh $e poin'of 'h! n .dlr. to 8lotrid rlr IohL rlrcsq srh dnrl {pRiakd bkksiithes Pusb pdlL rnd

and opposi@rdsecarhdne,_
Nors ard v{i'idc, on pag.17) Pnlscdfoldr,.cr!ftiion plcft, and
siree,r,lsNhame Plerd 6bnc is

rlrclolds.r-inn rl,c lmsln od

Th. folds @5vd pLd6 pufi w oI

shtldd ow. sdlunddlb iru or hdd hut b$E.n surioDrrr

tlrlplsb nduc uch sidcof a squaoi tian8leof hbncvirh rht rords. brst $e PrerEd thm e+6 b x s,tur or msBe Th. pufltd f,bnc m y b . l c f tn i s , o r r a n b . t d c d doM hh r @rirE s{d dr(ac andgrco*s sldi hmMlg ftlc b 'Furu\line or pogc or nutrcd q). (rcLr b "Bscuirt oo inb bi{uib 2r3) vdtuli us Pdlh Pre's Pase for labncduddn i blsdldrrlrc rhc rolrsolfd.d pr.a6 ft 5hbi Itredhb prmaDcd.immoshlc or l(N tolds, lxing pushspLaGin rcn-plerlik djrcdioc.Forqam.

pl6'in3 d,y b( adjanL b orc a

in oic din.don or one.dgc si

rcnnrN6 hhnc inloa Jirr(tdL. fro Exdle6 drtk 6 r pl.r' 6m

01ds6. or thc alc or plst.

rhEloldsithec{E!t${dr+e ol'ndM{.igh'dKlphb kNs thc ds of rhc Plols c

Mln ror plctud lcngin or {abdc undlit rcrch6Lhc bl!c' mcisrir t.xnlr lor s.un!: l'onddirionrl rhro{h 'h. rld'{ lRlfr b Uri,ts r sno.king Phrd on pasr D6)

To dnpq rtu lol& ofl,q.s:I. aPplidions mus b. lDtonhl

DOIJBLE ONTROLLED C P LF A T S

I I

i--

'

'1S<-:--i

ti.

1r\\\\!r\

?:

/ Smoching
BAsrcs SMOCKTNG
FAaruc REeurEDFoR SMocxrNc

hbrn ututrd lbr ! nno.kDs pro j.. rh'! a hi ly (lnLk gunl| ltr

sp{.d tr'(6nr)!pn1.Lurhrdc

dh ks libn. RDrh.pkr s ori hli,jcli|(cfnisrphn snL

hLn..{nar

nnrMd nn rrr

UsrNG SMocKrNc A
PIIATER

rrNrd5 (l$d o,E od o{ rLrc rLrr6d5l

DsLhf ,mqDr of hrntn..dtd.

nrs vor[id on a sni]r

gnd

iLons r.rsrh rr ofrhrrr.rs r|t rulri dn(lioul pulloL

rtv

0, i silur! of rlt .hD

(ro.n) rorg- dln dr lcnsll, or

ird MmN. rht rtrbi. Dbdh JrEdi6 he{or oi :ftr 'n!rr

]hIfh!lg$''o]|l]r'aLn.Jlnnd

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gl

t
'i.,

il 1..

lril
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CURVED TUcKs

i;"iiiLiiiliA ..Y^i\(1. j,
PRocEDURES
sund{d rucLs Lhd b.sin on Phn rn artr4.hrlr ofcuard

NorEs r VnR oNs

i..o,nndd,r. dr ruck. ldd rwo
lincniih nning {ch!5. o!

,hc lcrsdr o! Edius or th. hbi. whd rurqt rf,h. rab.icis !ur

ThehLn. bc.vrtn.uned r.ks shourd luclFGecaDd,ir bcif L! d uDps*anlint or.kh ru.k t s*d sroorhLtiThc llN oL.uM,u 'ud$ ii pro8esirq rhe,mounr d

{rh6

w(h $e ruckfotded.

Fq ch (u.k,nnk a fold l,n. Rndri uPpd ud lq{ sanrin.

on lh. lowd s(Dlii. q! m$tby*smsr udl I

id(dI$enenqorbyn6ul

Pin o! h6E rrrcu.k smtLnc

cEa* Ed' {ord rtu {nh ftc rip

Prls berocPmccdbsrorhc

Nde Pr r.I

.rr.,&P o pir t:

] ; :

: : :

i : i

SHELL TUcKs
dbrind ftk ]/1"(6om) ro Z" ( 1.3.n') rid.. Mxrr thr

NorE5 t VARTATToN5
n,adinr an lloduc Hor.v.i ddE hd aDdsndur.d, (nrred. dr kPrrcd &l5 eo hav.shdt$Rlloptd.dsc b) o{dlge {i!h.

PRocEDURES
shndal Tu(k na brgrn on 2 r, hxkc nachile.nirchdshttl
brinA,h. ,hrad ovr th. Lu.k i eqls spaccdar 16r brd rim$ rhe ruckrvid$ aDit. To

irs:rrr |lt,ucls [iv. bcur

rame{linb thehLnc.Fahcshell ftks,r 4 uchin ntrfes oo.c rhc dn ctu$ lor lund siLfud rhdl luclhs aft sl)dtu Brins r ,.a tad. b l,,tr' wlidr 'unB 'hr Iold foNnd b imke $t slishrnn wnbrhrnrl"(ll!h). Lh.ftJldr

o*r+e nirhi)8. suidirg dL!ivingsro rhciighr. jLs' r mG$ the edscJusgl. nn.h [ng , rh,ighrocdb|non

hbnc ff8 F.r tvo, shrlls. hrk NeE4e Poi,s ,irrr

ruds,n,r-L. $llop.d udr i l.{

sn(.h .nd pin 'lte Eds$ of 'Lr3 sh.U rtrckd l,bh!. iisbrsid. up, Loa p:dded su,-f.c., and ntxn \r,h the non hcld jun rbov. rtr rulkf8 Alotr ro cootmd dr

roLd.{hthhrlp3ld B,Lh hr 'h! oYsedse nir(h$:, e roodort 'o8dh{ fo! tu dd'h of rheruck. levdrhn. ltn b hndrlupptu (scr phoG ofshdr ruck on

ovcdg. nnlh s rhddrh

on rlt tubn., 'od $en ford

rcI

lb!',!J!)

c u 'd

{!h

kk

risll siL. o( nl

CoNToURED TUCKS
'"(irm)wdio&dedsssr

I .

t:

PRocEDUTES
Lh! tulr 6 fdJd n{ 'Ni'g)

t.
I

dr

roLLr'! urqLLsL !,rg! !r 'hl FA 3.21 f'e .nbtPd wi{r seans

NorEs et VARrTroNs
ruckhs prllE. (oGidft rh. efl( 'ien6!o|ad.signwh.ni*

combine dilr.rtn' .dntoubg

pr.

$i11 showu!h$ ,ht ,ndum oL

tuk rols aod dv.ilips, nrgcc t][

(.frDk fu.tr,whi.h look * il opdliDgsureotdru8h,bP hy{ of fabft 10 .\po!. .idrhcr or id.nlra[y conbuEd trdG 'hr md in rhe cedf sii.d lryholc rcqunc no h.kl Fmcd h 'hr .ombinarion nue be exL': r*d lu.k or ettual widlh ,fd .onron.

sdri' rii.,'.d .m.o!r.a &.Ls rrc rhrp.d ris the tu(k5 hRv. b*n nitdd A bdrdd ollhmd rc. venB Lh?ot .dg6 of $. r,hic ltun frling Dd ale .dph*t6 dE conroucd pron|a oI rhc ru.E odo tb. ,{fto rGlins LheomNr fronr of i fi*[cd tuk. !u' o on dr.lift and in nn.h dvd ]n. .ur

ftr ncrhod: FoUoN ti!.dour thc linc $itL $in sdrhing onovethc hbncbqond ft. sun lrchd conbua bj .uning fmm n.!dh holedln sd{I. hdl. to nccdL.

lDLcruckb8prEr on 'h. roldor a n.ip or pip.i (d. Iold b !vl,oc lne Luck will mfttr olen rhc ndp b kr Cr k.l[olc d6i8n Ah{ r!ck, and pns,ng rhc lol& k fac .ich drhd [ind rv th tulk5 iosdhs rh$e thr 'otr.h unns d(oc'ive o. irusibl. !ii.hing

Fige24'conlfunngheedgeala
Mkhin$ w1G r dccdon oI dElq nivt nitchc an b. pro8hnmd $am|ortrLfifringaftcNtrd

rig.s.23Dlanond8hpedkeyndes Mbdbybow.|yihgllbpahtso| lwDzEzas.arM tuk beethel

-_,,l

_-

__.

. *j

..-*.r

.-:..

l !
(

1 !
{

)LAIIJED I IJ'Ks
(i nm) w& co$.(a! reguar

t{rlt rthFrlr rnsotr ?djacnr tud6 ro o\d'lL rrr aord rigir rp rDdr! rd

|,j

ldNlq,,k

tli5h$

(bl

unhn, erTely qaed

sDiE to cB

PRocEDLnas

hnL(iu'bu,!ft

Ll{ tu!L ((n

NorEJ t VARrArroNs
b Fonni{ an.{n bn or r, irr is

L!dh racLds\tror r Frd.d

(r rr)\i.oinrdninLo

N'h sl6hs rtagq(d i,5u((d

nf!i8h, F rrcm ,rrr fold md n'rk(\o5rsh$u conr

Fs j25 rd hake shads teeh: t3) sp8

Iabn..an L pilEtnuftd rll ow !i1h rnip ftLnaqlrurkr co(r ulprs.d blind iuck FnryE'h. tr'(*sand.ifLhc tuhi! !,1!d{n. sh xnd spin dr i) aubnniary ilLnbh rrd ldftdl'M $il,|cd.

R {rhdtrB.

G tu.15 sprn
rl'd(l

iro rhRd.fioc lodpi

{ft fdl& illgn.d ro r|f nnqh' gn,n, tlNads,re pidad rdJ Ptrlldl rhchdp ot, Ld,gtrlrdl. orpi, B|tor unravtr1i,,s. diyjd. tns'hy Ld'lr 5!rn. .LTsr(r.ndtulr Afts cigng, {Rbrltc virh i $n d|n,ifug:ig:agnn.hit&los ,hr basr of r frirse b rrc\ftl nor unnveLlnre (Fq 3 r0) rn.ks ,u.rd hbn. nnrengrhtD.du'h li 'u or p,rs-on irtnalin8 1o tulrlledlnng. lr rft!!v. trrks $c lnnlcuLF o fiI,n. w rn

vrry rth shark! tdh obnsdy drhx|]]n. th,nrwli@$rud! EnNr v'ihrpdl {edC* ol labft Isr tu ru.h. rnd fol{l s usull (Fis.3-ze) Innsd oI zisa&ing.

sl,:h6 mar nop shod dr rh. ltr.k s6n. and lne Dgl.! dr 'h. poin6

Fg.s49shapngsha*5le|hby pushing|h6slasheded94fuehe

FE 323 skshinswirhrcbhes b
rtntnd nkks *sntd do$n t

rhr N.dsc i sid.r|t rtrck tubero Iom tLt arsh (Fi! 3-2e) Ladds rakinA .arc ro |r-tft hbn. dNads

bcIF sDpping ,lk! Lh?rring. Isn loopd b lalcrcd lI rllc rrb,n

/. . / ./, / . / .

//

,. . / . _ ./ ,_ / . " _ / . :

/,

/ /

S L A S H ET U C K 5 D

CROSS-STITCHED

TucRs

. rbr howaieduck5. Provide wnedrthinsth *er the6ds r}e roldsoI rhecenbEd Nc|.s 'o br pr[.d up rDd bcked

Norrs & VaRrATroNs

'h.3per n&dcdberw*orhcows o1rop$n.hing ro rep lh. hbric fld Unduhtingd.lls rrh : heishr wheErh.y cha4ednrrion 'haLrquii5 'hEdeplnor the rucks rhc hcishror a bow u.d u& u a lirle ls rhnrh3lldE {idrh olrhe

PRocrDrRrs
r. tuvrw Lh. pro&durcs for

rred r.k
L rnablnh a!6e olto.k.d hbn. . For undurado8 tucks, droo* pin. !pk.d. dr brhd rud6

b'o bouied ruck

*ftl,ins, hcl d. lbtdcd.ngc allowrDcs .r dr dr(GoLln. tuls To makeft o osov{ rop*irhins

ovcdlldsig!.ukld&oRdvt iiLch vhen seNins UneveDlt

p.ddeil board. rh. Pmj.df8 sd

low ndgir ngulirly 3pkcd Buidelin$ mnkcd mrh libft . Foi unduldins dck, alrs

ro cool $xl dry beiort uip'n

lrun &. sndry panllct and ngidly nishr, .fr.nvr ly partn inlo. Dal. loo$r app|natioEoI ro$-

rcrc Allow sumdmi sDke b.rwen dFcrr ros of.rcs c\Ee djEdonfr onr dnguP th fabnc Gig.3 t1). s6s

bgdh& inconspiludtrsly a dn d bsdL{ ritb boq-ri.s oroma. nfthl rhrdd or cod ardallor rhemdsrod,ngle For a dsign in ruds on lh. rop ol ,loubhd an,l

*ffi

ffi w:

til#llllNt,

{w$\[\\r #ll#dll##

CRoss-TAcKED
TUcKS

GE 3 r+) rh! wo klls trr bd\*o'. lodrd j's' ixide 'h. ,lr lolds rLioN cds6 b cunup

il
{idflurks: (l)ln r'l]c 'h.*olinbIk.runliq

NorEs & VARTATToNE

bdw.tn hubhlt 'u!r hlk 8ubbl. Nlk5 rN b{ rid on rlr sortrc ibbon. l.aYhs th( cd cids drn slins, xqd rh.y * p*fttrla y

rhr kfr lold.(l) cr.hrh Iold dirur! opl osnedth

PRocEDURTS
1. R?{r* thr pio.tdufts lor sundid li.ks rhl bcgin on

bgdhei (l) Tr.k .si'n dNnsh rh. enrer ot thc doM (1)stonandcur r]t rhErd-u arry the

.jLlcd tuda n<d $Ifiltnt \pac bctrlllDb.kjn3poi'Bbpnvd{llt pul on ih. rull no boMns rl,e hl} d rtt( I r oblcd. rh 5bnd oI a 6bled rudr .quals a l['1. l6s 'lmn rorholh kiids oI!tu$ kc[.d trtrks !m Rndlr*h $th h.k b th. s,n n oNrncs r rhc bqin lins androd or!trEr Bdd bubbl. . bp liJeoIcoMcd{ndlar. kking erd Ncks c$lFdad

rh5. , rabicyG dnrpp.xrhg pe!.or lhnlk rn Idrspx.ing Iis| rpplling dr sclcctd t.h

((b) posn,on 'n Fis 3 rr). rosdhe and,ln ld\ei, kck

bc,w&tr lacks o) Bd,s rh{ needle d rheluck! our (l) am' '. thmd dvd

*an Pullrhrt]lsd

ponrion 'n f'g. 3 rl) {G)

'fuc(s

PARTTALLY SEAMED TUCKS

M rypesof P:dart $amed rlcksl e.kr rth podom or

bekdch or nnch in phce ro rdry ror cros ock.d pfum. 5, r(51h {olds orr.l6.d dck rel6.d rohons ot rh. tocks

-ranl.l

|oosefo|dsf6m$esamedfo|d!.

iD&nprd tucks,sftrh rna pin rhce4$ or dreNckins ro 1 ircnhddju{$o!clh.su,c orrherucks. alloqh.ool and 6. Rds b "Exhding . ru.ktng

PRocEDtREs
l n.vrw thr poaducs ro! su'rd,il Tutk 'n{ b.gh on

NorEi & VAru{TroNs

suh.d ru.k dn gEPl Pale( nlellin6 toindic(. rhepin, sp{e4 brrd. $adurd, cm ll ol m into un*m.d lolds d d6Eurd poirB ((a) in Fis &rt) sp.riry ,h. q,Pe of 1uck, tuck$dth, rhr spm beNen hck, md Iotd pi6s i'u d'frrdons on fte Phn. . Forimcrtuptd tuck, ounin nn.hing vnl be$spcndcd {(b)b Fiq.3lt) rhGlaE $e rlan into a full{L.d ,!.L ing pakn. sprd our ro bcludr sprt. ror $e uck folds,silh tu.k ssdld$ rcred b$id thc ccnlmd ldld rrnc. Lihi 'ur liahlor an i\trn|d uh daigrb r. F]g'ajs'D.slgEh|padialy .*hed|uckwjlhkMindi9fug w6ttatds: la) Betead tuk wk stq3. (b)tntwbn tucr; \|ik brcd<ocdYq theylundion $'n.rh{ I'kc plti6 ro crEre and conhl fullDc$ in rhe m,rr.d !.dbc dI $c fibn. Th. lullnss..n bc tso lrd n oneo' on borh mtlsof rlE rucked sideor dE *am.d sidt ol ftl.aEd tulk5 canbeskced for lhcrightsidcwhcnth.iin.d sid. is oubid., rhc ru.k in bkk Unlile rel4.d Nclis, {abricDat tm.dwttnDtnrt@Prtdfuckln3 dign nmbs shbiliucdthmugh' nonrlad ruck lolds ssnd, rna lne pdls 'bd rplae rheinreE< crcs pmjcc' .vcn non. rhe d.va ddn of rhepurs is decmined by rhd db.h*gc tu pufi. shr papd danning tonn intmptd tuckins daiq! a! r Iully prcdnt rh3dorh

3 Usingx r,bic.qre, Enishhs or frark rhenshr sidt ol rhel,ln. vtrh rold liIE ard *:mhrs * :mnsemcnr Mx& rh| pdDB FoI irL,!.d ru.k, .xpandrhe

tuck dd$s bsid. L\t tdld lin6 Fdr bkrrupred uck. fte lold lins ltun &. pdeD: hce 4. Fold.nd sewnr dcks b)

Pull ,hEerd of ft suirmc rhld ro rh. ba.k and ri! the nedh beloa rnmdng lht drt,& rrtr

t :

TUCKS SEAMLESS
irofg fien eisth There are No

&k5. 6\r b!!l( rold. roi Iotrr

ush8 {uiJ,v drrn n r orr

l,e.!{n trvo b{Ljold dob

Lq:{hc rishrr on ,he thErd

b a.md r]I hrk lold dds on

dud pnl nn.Lrs.no'ins

b!${nw't]lddsbrd'! nccdh 6su( &{ n.b Nori tdsc to rds. (,) in Fis &r6J

dun{ tur ((b) 'n rris 3 16) ln& l.ngrh.pin rh. mds k, a luddd surtx. andner n i'h .i beoledd4&lorcr ing

PRoCEDLTRE5 FoR

PRoc[DUREs FoR CruslERTuc(5

TIEDTucKs
r. Phr a (Pladns.tull.sEdr.h
No dob.oN(td \i1h a lb! b

'iliut

or rie (F{ 3 ri) rh.

duncrs, diillL Lhl urrd mLa lEord br lh.,iklntrnbc ol

!kAn( rlr 6lrri. h{roE lnd ]fr]lLrcdnrduf'hd*ntra

I wlh ! tubiavtu Fis. 3 36 ra nab tubt lrcb: (a) lb)

Psr or ruril,

atistEd vdhatty and hd,htaty fujmp'lirg|hesrbhesloge|he|

6sdh.. Fo.surr!( trls.dd d! n*hr 5iJ{ (he r.hn'qu. hll ob{rtu drc ddc)r lor(.6e

hr bcr.ur ro!a. Dosu(

trrn{lss 6f rhr hbrrc iuan( !n. tdtr hr.k roldstr rh,-

NorES t V.4RrATIoN5

i - r - i i - j i i i i r - l
t!"t @b-s la) tde 3l a\ atdan q aq\hq lb . d) Pa$a'data aar wrhsbgg*dsp2cirgard.hangesin "F

{drh ol& u'ldemo$

tuc|ls brinhricbulr concal Lk idE Rnd

BlanLs lillo{fs

sridi$d

pd.

oorhning virlr tr'!l$ 'hi un m 5Lr n,,l,ldndLedorn b ndlh'rs

too rh| rabiA surli( r][ fcdk inro ore dd and lxrtn

(t) Mrkr r

$,.idins 'he lhs apfl b

d.d r trp No rulk wlnr dr ds'gtr F r.d (r) fti( rhcpd'Lm hbn+{rE dnip|!{14 . Nhtn surf?f lrirs in Go pd' or

Lbn! wnh r li|irc po{iL. oi ror l

.orkd ir b{k. r'h..

sof

\trh dhd rratug. (r) cau$nsb)

. Fn rvd*

')ing dn$ir

Fiq'3e'P|epaingbreafuCkby Cannechga@no|bb||ilh@t

rhrcu8h b 'he nghl ndt rl't

thtd$ so ({) rvhlo nNhd

pin

ourdr?rc6bdlcco,hc,u!rc[d 'u.r'Dg ro . peddcd boaid srnn Nnh,n nor hcrdiun

dry h.lo. upimhs (5) Rtau5r oondd!* ftd r!d( d!5iqn! .hatrgt th!!'rgsoIfufubLi.l[nnnigh and rnr io dnron.n fin Lhr frbrn

: '

_}

r i

PATTERN
dineisioia zes d*iqm wiih .udin8

PRocEDURES
ca!3u.hirgqnrg|hereee@a swt \{n ,nh) ta the tetuat the xre pin nL.|d 1b Plo* rhr tide tudu oppast4 stayins a scanl t/s"11.tun) noh ke the d ethel

rn vq$ua ,he fabrnbrfoc aDd

rngdE hLn. reqnnmcnt.or sdcL}'1,Ldns|.J:dfbo'h

|he|h6adhulfuJa|e@n|ihDirg fahnc sentq Ph murd 'hr

suili( ol rl]c tudG aDdrlorh $ol Jod dl,lbttoro uvhg

|'nmlr'd dk on a riBhL 6d d Mdo{ dunne drrliBh, bc\,N r ri.sofrhcpn

d6br dth are.hatrs ruhhinesflchll.hn) han one sb at the the ard btins | tut '/6" t1 snn) itan llElha@lJlesifudiBc|lyw6ib MoviE toNatt stqhql, kk a tiry cahtirue hack ard tdh (b)ahet,, {|ch6'pullhe|h.ead|aut|abig

Norrs 6 VAtLATroNs

.mss.:rd $op ind n

ansh{.

horr'.ind rrrn gdtrlr rflh. 6," GN'n) vid. rhr ro!. trd{arLot th Lhl o{dr. i.{*dqllt L G ddjl|]h' dn crion.olc'rding {nh Lhrcadtmbo$$ rh. dsien *rh thr ndg$ 'hd h e a tup. lLk..dsc (Fu 31r) inic d rhr kdnil0. Anex(p

ju* rLrod of rhcn(dr. 3nd io noR dran ,r/ ( r tnn) rFr rh. ford For dshr dr{s

rae nid, oDonc sdc oLftr rhtlnd asu.tuenfuh or rhc

P ; TT E I N i U ' (

N'

FilledReliefs

PAR,T OUR F

Q Cording
BASlcs CORDTNG
CoRDi foR CoRr)Nc

arrnrrNc

n,s uri r aPP{oi !odirs I

HAND-SEwN CoRDED
QUTLTTNG
comhiiedon rh* embcser :i nEr ]a.igd*giintoihesrhcef:hft

PRocEDuRrs
dri.e. No Diialkl. ev.nly 5Pedrin6 rhc lin6 drin. ina'lai .nrfrn'ng p!rh! thrr rPPr b Nl! olq znd und.L dn. ,nd'hcrwhererhedoublenop5d. prosns0n df r dhe( rnd ddr dranntlilier channekir m$6. s(au* ol nens(Fig.9 l).Th.eI|widd

opyof'he dsisn onrorheinn{ cuno rhc dcncd sL. (nrd 'd . For runi,ns nn.hld codd

. rn b,.k.sdr(hd co.ded quilling, tri!. rhcdaign dnb rhE su.fee6bncrsjDs. lan tsh,q n sn\, Emoubrc BsE rht inDd linDeb rhc

d6ien Nirh rinl uniaom nrch

s. AL PofB vre (o${!s

dunncls intnup' d. I'nc bdDe b{w*!,hE fabncbyqs ro dr

rhelineco{irucs,hkinS. linr bekdrh on dch sid. or tr

t s4 N D 5 E W NC O P D E D ! I T I N C A

F{

I-qi). pdlql Lh (!h 'lr

.abte catd: la) Pakeand Msst,athe taryatd (c) LeaE shad bk wh*

NorF-s t VAR,ATJoN5
^n{.o dtr,g.rh! li6n! Ld{lqr rr,! lnd r,nnr rhJon.rssha, d h. dDorls /" (6 tr) widc {! jLLr!

1T
il

rrrh| !trt,( hr,nrr* sullrnr

!$

or rh! inilrrrhg

hrin., b(

annr! fllf

r,{, r/ (6imJ.hrn

.onP

bs a L" (6Dn).hrnn.l nLlldv,l, 'm hN. 'nd!

d.nsrn r. rNd5ibL 4srr0d rh. lrdr. !I1l'! hirs s,r r,!P\ lLf' otrGid ]t olnnigr tr. trLAg.d

!hirnrr Jod !d,he yrD n rhf

(6rnr) drmd

lable.lorded .rarrl

ncrhcd LxPuLLbs rfr][ dumds hennDinn R.n,ov. nnns rft (|,is q.r) JoLr rkro dN.Lop.d

.!ble.!{ded hb.ic,r liunr n h,unLLluo hhLi( Fn lrrd (nnn) d,trnd A doirr!,r qnJ.

larhnrs

rfiL a iDg(ndl

dnnr -rdri.r

ld .o!!td und{.

1[rnr\5 r 'lt chaoDd1(hinrd

: "

-- ,-4."

---,.=,,

'.-':',

i,'.i':t 'l<,/'-:\: A:'

-tt':,\i::

Lf'3 e rl .huN, hfe.r'n(dk o hodkn,!nh0rqriunriig ,l,rmqi bf rha,d.d rhnrusf n

r{Ddhnosri

r.,rd n{ligr..td,n,oai!

Nnt! ihoi
llilLn b(L{i(hia l'u*'Lr inDd

cta$ore thtead haus the cabt-e card tn da.e

,{ffii
; l-!.-.4<_i

I :ri*r.'.1t

I arrr!'!r!r&rt +:!rc**

. -

M,rcarrr-5ewl
CoRDED
hs rlrrr dais! Equns 'oF
uDoi(]btlb!d|gl]tunL5 d rr l ro'!i i' balr (r) P,LLL rrN oLlJrr thFad rp rdl qr ol r|t lLnhs 'de (r) Ttr rhttuc nrhrsqn& kioL o) rn$r

QutrrrNc
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md1.rr$1, LhL o{dh nno rh. rlriDs{ dr lan *rcr orl[l

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lbou rind *$n.o.ded aui d,g' durs dsdibed on |]sc t39.
h fft.d 0 s$) rnllltu

arirrirA r{r.r$m.cdd5 G
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(6dun r h$ nrforshnnirLl

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m rnr

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h3$fdi(fi'dmd]cds'.nq ba.k 5dd a rm @d 'h,r bu

Pr$s loorfrrh a sF . in 'he k. dnLchoN r d,nrIahic 'hd vnps

s Fltrdnsdinlnats.oin{nim a npznt xlnit cLEnud srthLnB (Ii sin Nih rnim! n.lnhad hf tr lNgI 'hr lLnh8iid qrdlli

*ms 'rh.

proenls th ud ao h! humpLd rds6 a'uid b\

heschingwil]fuable|awaprhe laat nak6 a @saqew4 tot the

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nnh knoln ud lwisb 'hd !lx,*

rsriE, ihe $N qdis k $ (+) corhu.

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addinsc.'dcd qr5.

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rrom Llt r,bn! !d br .trr.d rnd .oil.d dMnA aDntnmn D.(hrd .oklirg is ude tson dF d{ bhs dtr

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ford

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(r) Hdlli'3 d{ r,p of Lh!q4

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TAP'/] CONNE'IIONS
or'he bp sdr nshr:id6 ogdlr nls. r rlr.ds. (rll lrj{E) of'hE
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SIRIPPID CONNICTIONs

,r.,!d und( hr,nilnidrrLr. roLil.d or r|[ *.ond nodrl! {Fis rot

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drc.ds.s to rlr. {dr(

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lic lih unbrmpd pu.k.ry txrufl

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NorE5 & VARradoNs

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rrr do,rr ldvding a koce.ald

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h,r

beEndiidcd i,ao enill

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mod'drsi.d

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Lnr grdlikc i,anner dEhlhrd nnd'

rer rrng s N.nrd \nh tai Fqr hEl hn horhs.dh{ $c curYr

srdy dnlk klad,s rbl. torsil rrkE of idt0l lil.s of dinDq b6! nng ( l) l,Epare ror. bdlh3. the rnd Lbins rith efErr.pin bsd's (2) \M1h Lhcq idrh dl 'l't 'dp{r:! dlg4dhgspudNlm,Fieq{L

!* r tnplat srl hoL6rospdLhE (rt!m) ap'r i5 a rdddr rlutr.c lor qirs o) Fd! tl? !n h6 {'d d5. ddd prlc .okn, .mbrcidcq flos,

dk D.rptndtuhr h fte su|Ja. Fttk! $! 5lirdr6 r {@r ,/ (6@) ,ft, ,)ms uil d $t brsiinrns ($nL ]in or ibbor hc f(dh. nEke a nnsle nich) irc sd qm bc rd. qr ," (t r.n) or moR hon rht knor. rtul ldl lm* b ganish JE bp, oi L\e endsn be dsl h bolk h Nhih !a* L\ebPnirlbcdhPllr]}ihptrlkd riiiig bidirq ts an N.o'npLi otd cds. fnch arrropn'E ro! a dd 'q1il( (r)rnE rbftls nun' *i l rh. rdgc ol fit top Tun th.exrs tnEoq'Ic.dgcb'n.fon(Fn denly for bindins (2) Pcpart 'ht 'nr.

FQ,1a16'|apbanirgrnircpr@ea O) tull Lhcs{lopc nsh' idr dul

Fa 1013. la) L)nirs bhd@ ptdiaqarat, tatdedeatnet lb) ood Mybsecurenj|eh:s|opi|.En| s|lcdhqa|aehednJbziqzag

snddLhd Ldp'o 'h{ lLi'nei6r'itrg. or

,.'i,,"..r,",,!",r'

I,r!!rjr;r)iF

I ' T\ D

Q]

LT \

FiE 1a 1e eeqhund at owQn tusisn edquttuE la, b, c) staisht ald srshtry eufrire het ate ha saead b dbp {d e t) 4ndedanddeeplt.wed

Fts. 1o.2o Batdet dsigre: la. b c) tuchhe sude qJtuitq ld, e) Free mtd qunihs

MAcHINE
QUILTING
nabilted(rofer H irs on ro prg. 206) Macbinequiilirs dc{gB.r di .d h,o bad{(fis. l0 l el.bor f s,oun.l and G+ 10.20), tiluGrilc (Fis r0 zr). rod subdivid.d

o, no m rnu (Rdir rD.r B rtrq D.silo, on Pisr r0r ) t brgks xdut'bel.lq {hs

1" Oo!m)rars Ju JouDd f0

PRocTDURES
tnh0c. 'lt p?ddtd ndnc. shrn inr.ibed dth nircr,i,gb), nd Jnd nop r rlr dgc, ard rins,hiid$lnhc o, Iill wnh r ,nrrnuD drDrroal noPsnrd

2. Curhbri! hsiarorrh. rop, ,ddDF an a|lo\?nc. for s| tr! ldp ur'rr a hbdc.s{e orrLing 1001'trdr,idrbd lisibr.rin! . Ponb6 or tl[ dc4n rlnr rir tlsund $d cperd. r imlF.
&s$n'D{k'|g:f'fbNh3

a sPEad linDsour. rhf ngh,

{ihllhbl!Lxr3(obqhb

suPPon ?llolnor olrlr hb n(squnnofi.luJj(wo'l' 4'.i h'l!r, fr ir ,t rh.J,,r.n

4i'n[llt!'d(l'bJtplig

rndm6.du,!rrb.r{e nr.hi|s
ffchirc.quirrd suni'1c. il bu niy b. ipPmPnie rnPlorl*d nrhft quil,nunquG rLtrrc

buldos raPn hbdn]8 dirrs.

Avoid bdting qhere quildng lin* ft rurked o! dud.d II rh! hhl bp c sn,ll.r ln,tr

ft. m,r. rhinenEiing'oP.

b3ft in *dion1 Epahg

rhe nrekhhg,nd <

dns

plam.d ror th toF Relnk 'ht nachheqn.hinsn lhodb lh. elly movinsrheroFTbdring/rin norcment of rheroP4driienti in8 und- the ddtus needr a.o!.all, b:.kbund. andbor d( daigB frrh sftighr lir6. sngl6 :E rhemonsuihblr for (r) ooolr a pBq root dB'
$. quildng linq $i E6.

str.hsp,t suE dis0ne, Lr q G E{rud4 .nd L\d ticuh.lr whn ,ruihhglii6 aEloBb rre 10 13) Fiq 1021.D$isre in he mtin qtjiins: (a)Flqmttuemtits tu srbt laa!.sEl]En@|lo|gMngla'|lbhbe desiy. (b)t@!i,ed nends ,tuhks tot fltar k) Echa.qlmed spiat allheadsha@'|hiry|a|ise|lman|lerd|k:hhg|i119|' pa,lded surlce 3,1,n& vithiD dE brdns Eight b t2 sraighrnirch$ p{
6l'E 6 .llning. arhch rlc .dsa ol rh. lining 'o rh. rour sidcbrF ot rhc fnnq rd nrekh bdwe! sideb$

I6ren fte lalcE rog.'hd wth $idr piB d 4" (lo.nl inr.r

b cenrer rhc b

ins ov{ rhe lin

up. ovs rhe b:fting Thftad bsrt Ein8 a lons or cured

Fiqla26Pdnglheldpbatnql'

rr, aqtrtr!r'itq dnL<r keaps|heb']katlhelqhatnqln' ( r) Lu\r 'hc tNd doaso, .n.

.rG.lnhLglanlhlnh Mxh 2nd6 ad 10th,a teh, B )n

|aqDs|adbve|a@jnalaraw2
b6trdbP/nltrlg/|Ld!]s

crPotrrn dr o/ofurt

parens ta) stth h6 acrcs thecentetr 61 tb) srbh abel

alrlr NC

, e

bn$bs $. norftN oI rhelalnic roa gn lMl nop.

ffl,iilolthtdasi!!lih

Lr"|6s rht b/hihgrhi'r8 i6 ndll hrs suppon. Lleish, hhdslhr ProBrc\Ycmdrr

b. k.kas

ht qls

i,rtinhs

trnu'ng iLdlr clipil 'o

v--a

nuiocquilKl r,PA hs/

rorhrnghroirh.qnrrring liNr scun drcroll $rh 'mDr hnr. d! dirs orer{r ph5 .dld ,n3.hnmdbesEn rhercll fufundn'dlol'ftdop/bll thg4hmgb'htpr:CNhe]e

(l)su( by holdjng 'o rl'. on endof rhemedle rhR:d Fig1023'Fa||reelalanquhng' handsdie.l|he|aplEnirglirirg ftps clt tnn tutuat otorestutp ti rhrcuehthr rop/bartr'p/

quL'hgGbh.gnAlihe

(ts1g.10 R! pkkrg. s nq).

drhbn.undctun*dk lins qirhniidrs rhxr tr.

rod(ft rh,ladbynirch.

l.nCrh b Lh! de!(d

!a

al'{in! rhennish o$ird

(2)rdlnJalh.orqdLllng

xnhrr rh. hbn.. fi"dtrdr! dcoo* r]t nrd, lcrsrl,

,r,! fins.B, o ir the f'bri!

Tonimge l,+e. bullg: nr!hi!. quil'i'upruj.ls r|[liincr spac ,!,ibbl bd\tn dr n(

Fs 14.4 @ La@ bptbatun n. i@rcle|lan|lchpe|lw|hbillcle ctix to ho nqht and dded 10be

,o ,r lrr, or rhenehinewirh txtnsions. prledbly lcEl

qDtuhs raatbadinsttinids aeat @)

di@roddhba@egebhabh

NorES& VARrArroNs
aurc tf bl'llr DsnrDs rqxrud

nnn.iornnmg/LhgD

FimoRrb/6rdng4h

Hit

r,
F-,

rhe LnrirF (r) rEnd$! rrr {ndK; G) Lft dr rtrr r$ tu{dhq rod (r) quilL
|]'h.frl(bp/bdn4'1D'

Iti::

LrI

ffi')

rdLs$fll.[ngl'oL.pirtd

,hs ro ,he r,nirs. o) $v

Lh!b[i'B/li!4nnlq)

b,h| *nrn n]Rdrqurlr

la) DMe he bP, banhe, and rdne hta two s@.iansandjojn l@thsf ahet quttu$ the tid sedm. (b) cul he barirq tnta tutva (at thnd, and

i,g/LiDns , {tNmds

a f,!s&

n'ddrl! Ll" (:10 5on) qurr .]glhrD.lhlnov.f]on<lgi

bihnanrnnrs. Nd (+) quil,

Ja}dJogl'ng]hQdnal!lLa' nurghr lN filtE bc,w&n rrguri

nldhs fu

n o\rinc ro rht

mdhire|4I|ongllltdol-

rx/,intd n lornr's !odtrl.r

ad. ro Th. Doubl! Btr'dtr'g [d8tFnish onFsr207) or d$io $ lu{,(FL3 xr:rr),o Pr!.n, r]I nrdrirg ar.r nnnk

atril' \rnritrr\rrutrlL L\plitu

rr.c. nr.hi,s lonnlonia t lNs

,ir.,lErd rr nkn,s. Ir,uL dr

r4djui ro a mw 'issfr o' 'hr

kd{ b .t

10 r 6J$lts rin. n rrr

1,s! e. N, dr,r rdhods nr ,d l!\s ,lE Piitr bn .B isr

lrtr sAnms (riis t0r2l NtD

(l) sr{ b:rlr uJ ddr nrnrosopi. nnch.s rDL,n"irnnl bcfoc ifLirrlnd dtrr io riis ()) oi 'rtr r.pdrlLrhslJe 't r r.nls olllr

ho

rnd{{s.ddot0i*

ro.Ii

n p4 [-1
l-r-- - i

Ns m,l \ ci+r. n bnh mDrlh

r-=\- -.f - /

? 4

rnaiL.d nr

bs( urd {ndrins 4

llKi

diffqtDr r,on rh,dilhrdrbr

M]

Fs 14.2 la) A'bbT t6 and lb) tab ennedac baied b the rchl afua|anadDbb|.pbe|e3egrnq lo|helrirghanhgf\ned'ightsida rcad A) b re ot (d) srq baehel

ffi

d ipponmr rRkoth]ngol|)''heliis/,litrg \th $c hcrtuB5ntrh$ (FiB r0'') rh. h h/hms

.f {rm; rnd folil

n o or3n'6n

roPs. i"g and lini,s fo, tb: {c L *L 'o8dht.l.xvhg 'h. 'op ?dgr Iahi n& N' Mrhitu qut' sr{ nuld) foundadon. dosingtLeol.n iles in rhPocss (.ig ro.r4)

i1u B.,noddft.diqr\r 0) Prlnr d6rsn for nnps of t?5r.. (l) For

$! bsqh. (r) (ut nnlrs ofrhe .llo*anft s. (1) sbnins (nrallr orar rh.l.ft cdsc,lar,h! lldnnp. kinmld bsi:c. riqltr3id! lp dtr

Fig 1a3 la) cpmwkdsisft ld) tackirstuahd.nod 6los9tbal nn|nodut$ ||ith l.) Assenbted

Es. 144

la) DxQr: td tabbedea\ttuetare. (b) sewhs and quirins a

hbs b 8ilhs (c) tunBJ inside $hk handstithks (d) arctNad uhdq ldp. srbhrns, le) eLpht hb searc, at o eov,4edMh zisae st:bnirc.

(1) Plac 6r nnn :r ovcr rlr $! *!rh. tourtabi nripsa lin 'i3 Lo3crh'(r) oP(n.P.t$ aod rlt.xarrioD ol ft nnrs rhd

qUhg3hj6o|]irinqandbp|ab|ic' stbhi@|ha|rsInceabdanfu|h

,b

aadi')dd

ddso4at t @ rri\ed

'"F

p)r1n4

ba

ab4 .a-",

rop ol 1i,. baft,3 Pri(

Lhl s(ond

buirr.ftd! fbu miio,- {nr+ nripsforrlre tur nnFolb ing

\{ith4j t|[ !d3s b be fa'ned hgdhtinid'lhbLl8hJlllaFr

(5) opn r& {.ond sup rnd hgh'rr D6i 'ht ram. (6) conhu. aanunil'h.rrahe/hhlsdr (Fi3 l0 ri) (7) td 'lE 'nodulcs

bdorslr.hrg (L) trlgDbl b6Lh3 (hetid olft rhre.rarsrd dgrr (1)$ rsh' sidsLlins.

trdhodi d$dh.d il .lornins rinrh rh. .dss w{r ddubtd bi hg Gcfu|Lo"Th. Donbr.&ndDs

liBl l'ninsnnP setrrhemd.Lrnrs dssola tuurrablcsdp5and rhc bdrins losc'hd (:r) op.tr and

,''i:, ,'

t t t
\

vvvv\

^4..a.1A.,r

:'/1//.aa/

ll Stuffing
BASICS STUFFING
sr!.fED arrrrJN.

SrurFrNG

SIL"ID

APPLIIU! ru.nd lolDLtiri5os rlnalkd r.) NrNd k, rrlldo'r,Giss

5hrPs ins qunEdor arPliqucd ro suide lulls' oI nultds trp of . n.rds bol lonBlooush 'o

STUFFED

r ih uodld qrruE. r s, $diw blurrd lunug iedk or sk$.. d"jnhtrcdFP(di|oht! stuiirs la) Datn)nelhe edees 4. lb) overcan and te) hehrabne

PRocrDURr5
piat fo .n|h?s,\ \trh {ufiloq

p$ln|gnu]]ingagdnnlh.{ann]

or hl,ff rlu' h6 h(n ar b 5i{ GEftrb hnndhngDcisn'' 0' l]g! l0t) B& lrr DirLad roDhhn. ro hnns hb ,doaql ne b md. ldjr<ni nunbs ino

llnruglDur Modd LrisL{dtI Ions oll5. sisqLa. Glsrtd arulLqu.. puk wl sll.s) Mh |n'sc prs surc on rnc ouGid. r \dl 6 stu{t-

$ilrd

tr rrPltFel

shaP$ q hrlf.

lor .onsnor numng nFnhu$n

.nousr ror rr d.rtion F suFlYc

rioDhbi. $nh lnnd $Dg

(Fig rL r)

stifetJ qdtltns.tuiqts atie

shges: lo eadet. (e)Gndded

olru'irr5Jlri

iktuL

NoIIs r V-aRrATroNs
tor rlr! d$irn ir-i.\ Nr.rdlN autlls rh! on

n(Llr,,hf hLrr L! i boor o

n,p.:. {Etf

rtL!j

thnlhL

dBao irLg LL t

HrnLnr rhr

Ards$ i,nl op.nns' { q(

sputrntrrt a.tlicr"s
ler b fth

tr,l,ll

rdd , r o,rr

linil]g and finm tr b

( ( . 1 L n t L lg 5 ) L ' r l r f s r r rusrrirs b trJro Lh \ s] ! tf 'hr h4 brhDlrrhnrq(lrrd vdk r $duLnkrR' iLln fg \,Lh sh,inkisr rrd'ni$

o,hs iNid! rh.

nuficd (.is LL+) Ifir!Pndid

mddithelirhA'hldtrgl'hols

rrnrids in ,hl {ebn! ru'h r !* Jlr thr\ hlq!) rrir 11'!

nn.hhg. bdbr rhr m.lnDg tr

tornuffiq ((h)i,.ig L!5)

n,Nrrn,1r, (o n.,3 rr i)
suidd rdhod ol yi,n nqroo

rc rr

mrkdn?prao iLJIrd

.5 Fis 11 ro lun srbhins-autinett sh@es undebcbbtl: la) stuh hmsh apeni@ brced be@n thteab h the @ve d the dns (b) PaDseto dDfl betuen the tay$ whte sli.hiret LnEhslr.hlre ztd 3tuhne 14 Pad wth

R.xEEd d'rr.d {uirrhs n N.

rtu mng ldr ol 'h. lining AI'{ of fabr! sluLqb6rins bascrlr rDpovd Lh!ldns rhe rp Iabn! nc& ro ridgc ovd 'h .dss dI rlr oul ln]ing lul fdlldw\l|thc 'dp l orrr rheourrinshu ,Lso .oloF rhc quihnsn.alkd sh.do* quihing risuis{i rbqtuund J bkkgFuod$mponeds benefii non rdrrt&r !r,lJ.dq kiis.ab6.

Fb 11.7(a)Dsisn tat byeteds6ed qdtirs M atas hnbeted h adnnehstud lb) crd6 ir tayatrl

{ill app* ld bt b.hhd rh. fdE. frq b. sFlnirb No L.vds,or brkground slxDs *r ' Ahft nuffls. thse 5h!p6NilL,pptar ro FI!11.6,Layfusfufldquihre qnurd dnead ta) th3 ha,1heek andthebseraatat the@Mk lb) The'qigglesljn|ave|bpheCide (r) Toprcpatu'hr onsinnd$icr. numbcr'h hregrcunddupc Numb{1h niddk srcund shrP$ rh. design{1) Trxr rheda,s! on 'n. nsh,sidc oIlh. bp {:r)Pin 'n lnins.d ll't{ Lh,n:llrhr:t shrFs und.n.arh lhe d5iBnwi,h ,h. ,r 3haP$ s1ufirhroughdts rn rlr lhhg d {hmtrghop{h8' lefi bdo( finishnu ac du in nn.h i'g rrim (hee\ces rinint around

rh. dup.s. ({l cur rnd ptu amftcr dr Pi.(oflinjns larss th?n *l *2 shrp$ whd $rchhg ri od 5hnP{, b theber(3ndconriD. tur utuilrh. ourLim notrrresun$. h whm nuffhs .xrnd dr nrftmg

bilrsmund le!k EN rlr rufiiru sFu shipG ldr rh lnr,g {ound rhe:r shrP.s(i) Rtp*r

a
;

;i

I
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5TUFFED U LT NG Q

l!

STUFFED
APPLIQUE

dnon.,ndd,i,s r& ?tl)li$e

Ran:llonifc

ro rr [{[

rlll)

PRocrDL,Rrs
s u d t . f o r . u r o u 6 ( r r sl L 8 ) s'nh : hLri. sfc mrlci hcc rilir. L|t( hrs orroundaiof nutths.nnnLi?. lortrdr,on rhc iplliqt i, flaa orDn hon Fis 1110l', b,.) Mottappld h aFplntdrows thebas edseora

aPrriqu iL,ric !r oul rnd

anoMnes sn@th\': ta) cip .ar .ave euNa and tb) ndtchcn@' .u!A.|h|eNa]sstwingshda| r\etoutine lc) crp ireide anstes btherab tne ld) r2pettnn ta the

illona!(

nouDdrrrctrx.d
dr bklebhd 4Prqw rFi bul

nr.rr.n b\ trudrir,.ur
drrin$. adding

on ,ht f.t!d

app\'I. Ir.3ld'nd rrf liqu. or rrrbrlqiN r {rriqurvLLh

rpprLqtri! (Fnrr !r) !!u!

p"Nn7z-q
Fig'114DesilE|Usfuledapeliqu1 app]ywlhs|tfrifuhda,relh

,i?9,

, '

ta) sthBuchhs 'n dpptqa ltwdnas

*ry
*1

, 1
4 E

wllnlwlrl

(b)bddde chirs an appriqui ph b4 delak6|inysrbh6h|au7hhe|ald'alEmlkgdlh|inys6esl+ough|he |aundalbnhfue'lafu|snchirglaaksjikrunni@slbhs'

a sz s 1F

?rF

s%#%
srbhina aprrbu6: fun car an ta)
fusea|ch$ae,lhebujldqo|

\|hehtains a canet at b) an ircitu anste.ld) Bandsuitu thenee iEezrgle'al,aysB|Uni@|aa n l) swivd ||h tu needte the tundaid tat otu& rutues 0 wlh 4 sruftrrictrpprnL,Lc (i.fd iftl] k]'sllling. otrpag.],]9): . r n k r u p lL r r r r . h g 0 r t r f

ns,rrf roq,orDd iPP,qn. ,s 1112 Optiare mhtu 4ptique (a) satk tq ehb'a)dery tooLlb) stbh Mh a Maow zi4s. (c) Jrh r(r) f Fis rr Lr)

xpplLqut 'hrcushasliLlur tnro (b) i'r ILg ll lt. appriqu. HaDd$s ,hEoFnin!ds.d

NorEs & VARIrloNs

shaPslorafP|i]]u.F]y|j.* d.lrcatrd itrri.ft aik ikh' lury shrrP sr.rd( poin6 rDd 'lc$mrdv0816gihmtnu. $maLtollRncptrs tu sEi. $tdD||cng.sinplll.dlhrpa $'nh iJlqu{l fam ,lo\"n.* nL

ftd1) .x(ud whdr tu nlrGhd ondud Juplisrrs,h orisnul andpoinl po,rtiwhN all m!.d lor odrh* m rn!*iLlqdn dntads ufdrmerh rhr nt ynn.h.d !dg$ or rlr arpliqu6i and!l,cn
t|tfl{nddoo|rcuDJ1h{$I1ly Jndk{L'drclainslsdign dhEsnFs I|,n ?rf liqueis too

t rzd d!{ n,!ir,ryLqr. trr. prcrcnbl) simple. rnLsh'.+ed

5haP5 onro fab,n \!n[ i ldd!. s$yq and cDr4. ill nound whri haDdld Alr, $ins a hlgt Qpl\ui r rhe foundrion. dnide

is\ \rh {nishr nt.hi,s. lollo{ ing o!,li!cs facd oD toP. B.tore hrlhhc \eah ard dry rhc.n.n lohdruo!tmlouEgcflr|nu fc.t)cd edseipl)LrN. bu rrsr rLE5t rhrn ,ardrd rPptiqu.: !|Gltr

r5prcbn l rhtftlor..dyd !,rLd oPPri4n. $E.nu' G ofrtr rr !!denr ssd 0nlRq?rh. prkrn

l.$ Ghn) a a(Dnd, cveD itrh. hrnL i$ mn ,o ,ht roldqi r nftish'sEh 'llou ancs. rr.?.rp,pfi p, rpoo rior ,*u6 rund .ds6 dr .fr .ds$. .ur tr ,nu.h ol

posiblc whdr ic{rs rd ftc un cnl,rgd oudrne on r|t foundruor

pelab|h|a!ghopdjhgsbbedased whenthe ced* ctcte is 4diqudd lb) stuttins liB cabt dtde hto,$h

Fie 1115.ta) sturins app@led

shouLdb. nioorh .nd \ trhod i( ou,on r lDr He4 hondihc Fq trKrcd 4d atlJ.l apptiqk. turolftorhdDg drded,4:

sidcl, rhc fdutrdNrcn fin and aboY. rlr hbn! rnd all$! ro qn and dry b.lon osins Linc a !trn!d-aPPriqui dsign dN

ippliqu! tubnc cur ot. dins r *an xlowirc nound rtr cdgcoI rh. ldsr ofrhe p:pd. ruh rhr 560 ,Lo\?nc. tu ,he hekaDd pres Iim\, For apphqutrb be!trffrd

(r, L(r Fq.1116 D$b'a tDtdarkedand

'hr.tr'rt

d {.r

ri

sFu tronon r! nL,r.,rdpfriqn

Dg iri Pl&! 'h! liN'3 0\o 'rr

L.is Lr L3l hn' i,shr 'dr 0r Ll( '!LLll$L rppl'qui. (lJ nncLrtLre

trmlL:ld {{tqu.

Gr nLtrli (rr

l{.} -w9ptite 'Dctuth ht-4Dd l'Pdth

|h '+rt!

0rr!L

nult ishtL\

looa appliqaI E ror n]l.rli rppl{f . {trllrns,lrougr orni,sr

rll

,ld.d

d nrttirl D nsnfdr

x]4fu|pl@gewrh96fue fm4 e, e r@5 rufi4 @i@E5sbeb@

pBMd d u''_'fed e4Md e6ftiB

S T U F F E D P P L I QiT J A

!+&i!n oppr@dh6 dridtdhP bI ft od sb dMg ,' hlde ne i{ Mr.tah efawddie@tuttu 4i k a. ft e5d tu stuFr dNrhn

xLe rqrej.d 'tul Jss tu Je ,,! !'4

l@&bi9digseiopeMed.u!, 6 h tMd@ nP tsmad $@s dir dpp* b epe ft sd@dd tutd

e st\te 4 & &re

ELEvATED
APPLIQUE
'h dri;nl d.\
GATHER.ELEVATED APPLIAUi rb q/ salhe is ih nlfr nto ert-

on cndntr,!

ongndnue!rd,!PqlB(Llr EdrsoNm ods (ris r ! 22)

GUSSE'ELEVATEDAPPLIAU.

PnocEDr,Rrs
ho3hL!otr rt+,r simPl,i'hc brd.{ior (F,3 l l 1Lr) .d

Fi|11.22'rgered'end!fien||fu|

de|a|ed2pp]lqt.rheeancaved7e

{,s' ! lTy!fLhr dsgD r. ro Lik Ll,. dtn{6 ll[r mL b. d.

--\

\ -ll,/

L-l t
r Lhcrrc(F,! | lr)

a'r

,/ at L/ \!
L

tl

/'\ I
i -

\ .;.;i;.;;
I

l
-,,---<

;-<I Gwe,

Figll19Arargennsa|stean

oltr.ll

r b! 'h dficrcDc

ds

1126 la) Ap|iqte

b 6e dev2.

tb) Apptiqu,; s6hed and sp@d \|th a Ine that 4ha8 he atbi t

onc ri& q R

adi!(d

5id$ rl\ !d(n h b! dod!J. r

i.ls.G),q [! llo rLJ k] Lt'!

,Lr. sidd!

LobLlLsdlJb\

Fie. | 21. ta)ladtpi

to be ekvabd

(b)Apprqle sr'shed atu sped b

,df(\) b h{ d.\d.d 6 rh. il nnD) tLon' Ll'! uppDtr! e\prnd dE sid!(n h r dc

llu onsmlshall nr rlt p si b benrcd on nr toundrLotr

oD'hc tl{rnl
Fig1l27D,4hhgaquselfu|eb skshnq and spteadt4 ih't side al he tian4e la mabh the stevated edgea|lheg6se|.alhal|hefoo

snhorrh. sus(

ofrouDdrior hb'ir Llrtrlr blor

( F i sI r . i n d i r s o , . r - b

rflf

iw|qu!

onllDG drro

Fb 11.30.ro qprqu-t a tund eah

rtu!. aPpliqu. ind gN{r hrrn! (oPhonar:trr(,rr

qr n?r

nrlhbs Lh..nds bs(ho

r,n- r!r[)

cr otr on ,h

srE rh! d.\rid ?tl)Lrqu6 r

.'lrqsrheTprqb.aulinebils

ca'hFleLbd awliqu6 ofird nul hlgh{ L\an th. nnicipftd d. urion prd.dir\ if $e ruffins ts houndd in rhe corti An iPpriqli 8arh.ftd all areund Ni nuf nno r mundrJ rom ro LeePfie middlc as nn 6 posibl. push &e nutrls dbg rh. cdss rhn d4ors s h

lcn3d ol the comour on rrr nnp

aknough nuftlns nrdihs thr ptr.r dD8 soh.r'hi ro subdu. lhc pu.kctug, fprart haod sarh.nns lnh bobbin $ftid sRrhdhs: MR.hine5d.h or'{ rh. ouddc otr rhc rpphqu.. laftcr ford on rhe sdhenng sdrhs. .nd l@d qv to ro pr{ry. rhebowd.finrron oli su$fld$?bd ron. push r! $r.d dga aM rorncGup rnd du {nh rumns Dn.h rh.m dk! sn ftn8. Md flnrm and snDo r rn. ioP d sida \!nh dqside P(' surFoi lill up Rnd oPPed roo $nh a shdt of bnriu ind finEh Nrlt $uf ie liilernE(h. U* rh. roundnionsh.Pe,o lur eroush ol rh. d.v{ido r,ck rht hyrs roserh*roo$ly wnh oedl,nd .ppl'qli 10'he lounddionsnh lh. baning ni.k Eide ro Lantshsh.! b r][ sunic fibrt. Pu5hnulfins btn.a$ l]t hRidns rhfttrsha sln cusd .onePb af mon dilfi cuh ro md.Ednd &rn rheois lbr

Fm snran.lor rclicL rppliquisdr .ppliqu6 h d 16l onenn de urd cdg..!trttung rhroush i! opminsin rh. m.hrs rlur rRlh G 'hclPpliqu. $ rheloundadon ts

.!cn\ ard conrol dr shsping oI

athwe c1Dped anawsewhs ta b heeqesdacjrc|jarapDliau-6rhe al|hebase]ircedqeo|llregBfub

founddion. A ilsisn $ih n,n) dn.-.red aPPriqu6 b(oms lop h..ry nd i.ds a nurdrrsubnan ta| roundRridn a bs. such6 Id! niII. he&l- hbriq, ba,lng prJdqr

boopoLlhft

lalgt enoushro

,xrd aPPritlu6 rhrcus[ dic .ur 'mo rlr. found{ion tld ro . nckhardPh rl[ g.s df rh. louftl.ridtr Loa Pzdded$dic. rhEraM.r:llor b .dol ,nd dry apphqut d$is!. bding dr

concel of sdhctd or gBdLlYl Io@s b ri...n pd.hwoih r.sisns sd.d.d .l.mcds of ' d$ig! I e d.v:rd {rh erlh$ls or su$ec. nd'h och ldnion b*ril ld a lLn rosdhs in Lh{ unDl, dshr.sidce fac s fdhior (Fie rr 12) ^fts tnmb\ rhedmtd ckn.trb m $urftd tnDu3hdns.ur No drr

NorEs & VARrAfloNs

'rht chora bdwee! srhcd
n, eroakdrre cheng$dtu.ldtr d LorLc'rdr o !don(L $irh x

,rtur oldsisnqrret rtna, Dtru. m(d hy nhnh q,Pe rL.vrliotr or ruuld bc rh mon ippmprile fo, th. dcLsn Twoothti hdoc ro befrB) a smtl slhpc rnd fte cu$c .lldN lon fo| cd vrn, rionr in thenu[.d rtrip..]od srhenng

'he cdg. oIa shpc 'hr mdchs rhc ba*line Mn\ nN.h 'he Elorr d lin!-urle$ rhc.d$ ii tutiln.

Frs 11@ F) PabhM* &siE1||ik Bttan lb) ftianeb wk Me ede

,ndsfd lersrl oLr]]. rt.vftd Li'c cu$cl. sn be dnlied rlm' {ill elsr en ipplqui o! a nanr. olnk aP-[ or,rth. *trh PE.

r]t d6n d [.ig[r afr- nutlbs oncrlnd rh. lbuxhLonNinh otlhenir M-suE aDJ rahcu

Figll.BHar.nfufuiEEnem|b ittLnultinsn rvilsrpohr

HALF-RouNDs
*ltchd5ldebyside6tfomd:toi with *lffnsercofd beseen the

u Forrhefoundadon Pi&e dt: %/(l r,nn) Iron rlf n?rro{ cr prp. hmrbo .drcrh. bek. {nh L}Phsrdshl
p,Pd or.odft(ul nab,lE{

PRocEDURES
brs rla ift p*ilkl nrdrupr
Ed,oY{laPPi!8, o! sk$v.d. Add rDd un$fird *Rs, ior !,ikrl

aroundrheedss or by hali b snh , Iahncgi. ndkhg odo thc foundnion-rhc.

\unb.i 'hr p{6 Loindicde$e srqnRrt or rppli.lLd! I'hE nei lElt mu ipphd.dus rh. lam alloranc ol rlE rEliotrsly Lou'dn. rnli$ ln( d6ign b

a owrn( bsrde:dr san in,licned br rht ordo ol da. ha.hh3 suiddhs

Fis 113s la) ctuut at ti2nsutal d6@ts14and"3in|h3d6ig1 skebhe,t in ris. 11&. tb) cutu aibtnht tu hebht dhet sltiins,

:.ul

6 IanI RPscd rfi o

s.w iLN nsr . tu n,n i rornrc (d) ir ris rr 16) 6. stuftrlt h?ltuDd' \,I'rr (rdq b !trfiils olpqr:/s).unn!

hrLlrouid or. g,!ur ofhnL

la) Rasta3f ip 11 h wrbn @) s'w sth t2 avq tha ad@ or skp *1 lc) ssw m gds at !tu ,3 a@ the edse be raundatbr td) Easotutnessat thg entu at the dtips hto the badhg sean. le) sew tianqlta, harratnd *1 h ptace b cr modr fton r hilr, dNd

h,trcu'dilb'lt&tgt

nm hrr , {rnd :r nsh,ndl

,Nndh,hrIN a,in so! rlf ftn 'dE ol Lh( lr ) r,i[:r! i,rL&! (]) EsL

rk n'llncs r]I um..,d {

orrl( hrlt rcuDd Nhi c siD*

'h! fou rbn \irh $msjun rno r& .,ds oLdr l ll (un1r b qE5rond qnh rhe
,h.nrdL.Jdlni ii(h

nrps.lollDsins rumbfr rhl &l {qum(ol:pplir or (b)

NorEs & VARTATToN5

rhsftdlnry tne rourdnb! $dr[oraru.h'lfrouMLiB diih{.( 50addjnB rh,liamt hru ft (tu ndilt b $ hrlr-round ul half round A.tually rhd nu.h deyadoni5 too ouch lor a tn[ oi r 'rsign kriunn8 hnl Dulds tni sEduallr indes ro rha, hcigh! $'1r! sevinghalr rounds *rh non rhnnjz rhroundadon vidr[ ddtn td rhc hilf mund nnP. .r rh..ndsoI $e nnpsin ar our nlltils ro build ul in hcishr. rhe $aro b.6!(n IEUnunds b.ne 'lj. d.dioE on eirho side mft, oared by rhecoDstudon smin'oabruade!chunLAflr ssins lhc lKt sideof i hill tuund b plre, u. firt *.nlinloldlm ro g,ugei dnde for thc bpnidrins

GrliDe rhe*s haLf muM hhi. ro dre sPlE benED rhcbtsddrd sa, and,ncffi ,rrL{tuE rhe seDd (Fis sidetodr loundadon rl r9) durinssewing discoungs an,l Hallmunds atu$(.d bd ftrll Nh.n rh. und.6idc ofthc loundR rion b+ns to bulsand curl up roo mudr nuffing shcn $3 nuuhu imPed6 ,irh r asubr nirchins rDishr nnch s.\ins Ioor or dr

Fig11.93sinv||aneo!<||sewnu 7. Rcnor rhr rnporry nabiue.

rcu

s, *witrg l]1t lining h rhe

Ratu.dnrip?iig E a Io$ rtld v.sior ofh,lf rcundsrr G siniltr b hllLruds in allr6p-c bur Nc An indnr for he8h' afhr stumngis not iddrd td rhc*ips or rbnsl$ nir.h.d h rhr foundadoi.

Fb 11.1o (a) Paten ta, a eraup ot rc hat tE seM t@th,q. 16)se||ira qn ordunrgnrd,L.<nEr od

CoNNDCIED RoLLS

r rrfcdi

dc ora.h rdF

PRocrDURrs
il tqd ro, ud, Dlr oaillLlc

$LhqlliLofLh!rdhli!'{L

\!nh rhnaLl ,ide or rlI frb,n

{rmlD$ (
stpM!

r|t

rr {)

LD!0,!,pl(b) n F,! rr-r0) (+.n) nulLLtrg oprugr ui di! $rnt. trrnrq" 'Irrl b Lr" :h{r iro r!o) rp{' Rous

Lh! sluulLo$ d dia

dnnd.i rrrdirdr Du5

lN.d,fi.nadndd{5 Ll

osDlsslhrougl'Ikde.dlAl0 'sr m! onPag.zrq) rn,tt

nk, la) plat, 4rr sds at stufred lb) sathetd lc) tanenhe casngs

NorE5 {r VARTATToN5

fo i ddadrd nnra(rorr nncLr rhc.dss rosdL{s'h dr risrr sidc ri.forc our lufiing (G) n F,3 r1.{l surr!! r{,rL& hmd

onn dtrmtr for$. rbu1[.r

I0 rh. si,Ei rishrlr !!o!.r

d FA 1113.stutrednt Enatbs th6 as. la) rcpstibhactass prgatdd na. @ r@Ibh downtheeentet al

.quidish

fron, l]I rold su

nr ! n ntrtGd,{r(s inrorh. rir

P(.Dtrr(d $'nrirs

nr.r rr sunacerck stutted aa{ sewhs.15)

.lGns,hr.nds o{? nfttrd r0rl

a,Ds ro I r bickgtuNd rrbn.

(rtrprs{!tuduJi r $frlr' (b) ,nF,g 111+) Tdtr,s 1lr roLL

(r).res rtDs hRakrrtr mus

sid.ofof. fibri. s.r rh. *.oDd

lthbd[dhDd(jftrnull:

$\ ,h. trtrnnffdalDsino,h. $rE iohnr*hn Pkc5 ofhhnc

fk*cd n'br (r),i

Ilg It 1r)

L!:
:i() X
c1
It
gr.s.mddhlLmgkLnlps' 6|iha|ehejghl'ch6oarcalElic nsasuenn||o,|henagneddqlh

'hr hch (F,sLr +t) sd rlr

LrrrLE PrLLows
r. $rtha hbn. nfr nririnsroDr.
(Fig.lL 16l Edi4! !i!h

PRocTDUREs
(6om). dn!! anorlr otrdLn.

bdNs

arjrNr

orhN

fo

D.nr or rdjoill3sqndn! ,hrc4h sPrs bd\tor &tg.r

11l(r rmr) ouFide rh. d.frh r % (r r.m).*krd

Fis 111r RaDnd ovatpatuns tu irk p aws:ta) tud Entatse $tinad he)eht(b)pal@hs||it)out sean b

IaM la) sap6 with *iaaennb bp{ed nto tE .Drhe6 or the oiEnat aurira. tb) Pzr*re vlhaul

$drnght5td*bg.'hdPiD'h. (ond pic or L'tn. sln'Ch' !nd, br nrhinc ovd ch ou!

brl$L'lhLrB on eihc! sde or ln.

il\ -C

ldtqude $'m alloNar NLen

allor an$ dngonrlL){ros.or

,fr'
i -1i 4
li

andnalncGea.r slu ,ns ro NtrhrniSh' !d{5 s' rhE

nurr,ns rouod ovrt Pitio$s or

li ,,'
Amns. ad Fm rh p'[ds hb d,elrller rE-phnn.dsmn.uon . Fofa do*d amnsntit oI p lo\r \rh sdsln sid6 0) ro .d3$ , Nt Pn isdli cpt.hry .5 bdon sxins 'og{h& p{. ronsdr 1r) [4rip ]c cdsG
qdhq \ih 'h) nirh$ iini' irr. D lbnr or hklud!'n

\lt Z

pillors Hrnd *\r rhc pillo\s qdh{ dln dn! rnipnildrc q;ruchnnh d6 coDnd nnth'.ndcdPil|or*xnhfts. r,ggdrdtrg. kb5 (Fis r-51) r \j.w*rc .a Faat 4 ,. 4r6.t(.qa'a @..po1a 1f;o>na

:T|
tftft
| :

lht tN a|Lo\qn(s ]nd dI |.d oFrinss lnib. ir ir ]rk rr[

fronr.rh. ourr rinirgriL bc *iLLe

NorEs & VAffATro's

vnh,ht ovqalrna of,l[ shaP.:

rcar-h|nich;sLthiid or ni.hDr O) nr,s nufiiDq,idd a r( nh(h{r by{]Nsdolr i,,d

pr'.hu qk u aoFa'l

or {di+'

lo\snllftlhmlghopnhgs

p Ld!+!rq\

(1) l,!

p.rl!r!

reighrrrrr lufii,s. nrd (2) rl{

li) ro( rlt ourrN$otdrpfun

ma(y drhr$ \rdft rhRn (10.n) 4
o(1trc. (:) Fof!a!h p!Ll,hol!

G) s$! rLr!fror (o ar Linrg

!LLll,difiqcn, u':' Glmsn.d 'dingks, ransl.! ild olaln.

(Fis Ll tr) Br!x$! LLsll{([dg dtrhl,ftd rhrougMnrrr Gsng

.!r out insidcrh. *rn diplh. 5qn iroran(, rnd rm nshrsnk orr G) ![hhs ru dBs a\ rhe 'ht rc-|rann.drnns.ntnr For nnrkd d rlE lhLr*! G,s rrrs) (5) s,rrrsd Nkhoh throngh t6) uol*! iand{J ln,l. rillo$.

prcrn d n ds-ih.d ror lir. piL

rdd ,h. snourr erioinrcd fro orllr lorslds (frg n 5t)

fvins rosdln orrrrlr d

(l),\rurmLo8'L.ssinsbur

EredbfIaDfrEh*uieddev'1]6

tr-tr
.dgs

0n

Fs 11a la) D8i9ntat rdte prk$

h peehdes. (b) paneth will ssdr tu)rhe @hlet tc) Pekhote tte

LT

T PLLC\']

i o
j rJard r., i.,: jid e !: !=i::i

Brscurrs

PRocEDURES
hlcargthcfo'$ch15.b,r$.

ibr{N " (2 an) h'gh..nlargr a ha r" 17 Jmr) squr *o 3 {" oo!m) \qN! rof i bsqi ,!' ( | :r.n) hLsh.$ln?. r r" O j.m) b&'orrr"(9on).Mr .ldns g(lr jdc ot llr l]s. ] ro Dl or

oLri!.u,G b dr nurr.d ro!! oa

+ as*nbl

ft Lis.uirsin , o\s

o! rhe Ndde (FiE l.is)

Loo*f,bn.,dra{d rio,i rrr pla'r Ccr{ b numos on

z riom Lhira raLniccur i b:s. to'

nF roq ol brNG iogtrhs qnh rrL qnrinssrosrd oD

bP hLnc. cu , brcuir lo. ndl

,n Lark rick rhr Liri,srorlr

Fo i Lr.ur I " (Z idn) liq{ ,DAh ford Prsr h s|h sid.

. .tr3Lisdtrlf,e.rur)li4q rn rrtdd Pl6r b ad sid.

\ha,
</- I

4f'

Noils

- V,4KATroN5

!orr\' {urred ro 6hb|nh nr

iou, ncssof a b,(u( n.vs Pu5h numnsi,no corids oIlh. rh. s.wiq unnulled m{s ro sulftd size s{rion larg. con*rudions, *cdonss b. rd,ncd..nd {urr

An,rkrnareard sP-dier nans Nnh pa,lcinsfdr a blo.k oI bt.trts (r ) DEv z crid ol squse norc bi$uiE Dnv 3norhrtgid of enla{.d squRas rhcpkard lop Io} df ,hl brcuiE Mrk tu prcn loc arouDd panms (2)wnh, borh f$d!,ere nnks. rr. rlt gid tins Gmnr,ma and prd, F{rin8s onro $e lebnccut for tht b,* .nd lne 'or (:r) ssq rhc bp b Lltrba* Ph ,ni!h all p,nncr *aslins and rlat nrkmss D on. dn{'ion pld loradon RcPsl in rheoo$ dirt.non (Fig.11 tq) (a) as@hle rh hiscuirLhFusha dn c( inro al&ugh rhcfrdnionarbiscuir h6 a squne ronndarion. plrlL { o! eael)sidenso 3n:bl.sbGcuib ro Gc lbh non,squacb6e (FiE lL 60) Enliqlhe b6e pnb on. barr d6ir.d d$efion rhe

Fiq. n *. ro quie sewa blocxotb@uxsta) B*e andbp Ftum Mbk. inenut'pb u*ur,, dth pt at l@rare m*Ed M sdntines. @ rq atu base,u'th.nrdqdh1|idmdhecwikinv*dpldba|mMbEfu| (c)sttuhed iE @e in Mrad s6 Addirronal ExNrE and l.vels acd bdNq thebi$ui6, f.iviis sleded bGcuiBunsturrcd and crumd.n. and lurowhs rhebillowins hbnc in th. cenk! G.[e! ro sn6d36 fta bjscuirvenrnon rojurif) ,r1e Eee, tner aE Edmsuhr lons ,nd slcndd but prumP Thr aft .onnrud.d l'k bG.!i6 h all Esp(c bur onc lnn.adolip].onderrsid.. only & .vo oppcirc sids lur pled5.,nd rlo$ pla6 arc alM)s ndncls rd a sEas. pitdn.

dnedo!. inccIins rh.l.rstL of th. shdL lidG of rh. rcrhngl. br tht anounr rh. d6r.d d.vadon oI

PEAKSAND VALLEYS

ainnlemss.hrq!a6edby6e

PnocEDLiRE5
lamlfu4l$i&onredhg squrks(Fig.116L) Llr sd

asqnm

i l l h . d . n g d D E I i1

Fb 11.62.(a) Mth a mpas set b h 3 Nk s tunEtrat base, dtatu tiarsE wih th@eewt sides. tb) usins he rhr nqnumrmr of on. 5id. oldr! rlrtrgl! (.Ls rr.62) atbwance:, and circt$ l. ) 10mtk he nneB

sideor rLrc squ;i. (Fre Lt 6l) {{rng nihnoE b lach rixt

per, Lqh,I F{k rh.Fnrs

nohcr'ddLea.f\lloruntr n.r pildL\ r rhLDrdl.don. ttrjGr rht ren nd. or lne Psr, Pohl Ar rht lrDal.ore( dr

Fie. 1161 @ sew tu site at he p$k ta anee& at the tuse /b) Matchand ew the rei srtu,andtc) thenen teavirsthe

ir.
Lh! qNdr((a) nr.ia5 rr 6j Fe 1t66 la) Peakssewn beehel

Nor[s & V,tRr,rrroNs

Fa I I 65. sew tutapdks 4|elhel wth a sean ju* ro thc tdh ot the ti6t

l [ r b N i F L gl l 6 7 ) i o . d ' ! plh!trl|nqorfinull rh,lth6. libi !n frg 6d) \rih ighl \tr. nrfrrn

p.rL |)l doi(s Ldjllor {(lr(g

,\n0u!Pa|\Lll{(lDNlUj

,"Lti:':

Structured

Surfaces

72 UsingDarts
DART BASICS
SEau&Nc DARr5rIMs
r do$k']rircd drL. rcllk

. .riP rh. rr,m!]l h" (lronr r. sN {nh ! sinaldrc:d $nor ( r ) r[ I r rnd or rrr rJobbn LhqJ b ft.nd ot rtr r(dlr knd (r) rtrrrhsd! rhc!(dle rdl! R$\ Dd'h. tr(dl{Lnd rnsiDn

'rr! Lhr{dbsguidsr

G) Brgu{trlhn8vih1ludr. ,haa,rsk gdhr i,r tronr rhLh5LrouLdLr.dDstr lrrl( r,DL{i!h 'ht Lh'{d nn \rar

. !!hd' 5$m3 i dnr or rtr

nrlrkfto

rnsl. { fmdF ou,

SINGLE-PoTNTED
DART
mouth or$eVwhth s alw:y3 * poii or the wh*e ihe 6brt ele V

PRocEDURES
r b. dtrrns nil*.d, dnfr l

!orrh. diir *..

nraichr,

niudurd ron aris rz o Adal)l or.ollh.lollo!Ltrs

Lrnixr an trturi0n (or d.prD

nor ns i/'(! snE) 5hon of 'h oprGtrc !ds! G) spard

dor Gr d.p'h) w l lulniuk

Ndei nlh ,ri! &4kd .ds! n

n!'d, d[ di* I&N{fu hl''l "' 4

a Fora shsh dar: (r) E{eod

,l d,f0,!irrr|a{d

(rr3 r2.)

rh. oPPosir edg. (r) aur

ri'',u'sahtnaspuaFfuntor

a si@ledat 14 Ladlin andbgh ot thedaft.lb) Pauffi stashed the n dadkEghighla@bkdoppEib 6de6.hd lc) e ed beetBttha fufuddM@depk'dh|hedad e2M n d p'pet p'td. (4 Dantu cdsjd66padbgekdardEedga stuiqhtue m a pTet Bb. ttu) le) carccbd tu ttte tude1t

(5) cur rhedac oFn. R6roE

$e!qslhd}orja'g.ddd

(Fig. M). (6) Ton.I. &6 tibn onc.dgr thbugh fi. sft !d3nd rclr *F Nder ,{'' 'rrridr ondidr
r.drmn6 oJ

(t)

d. d'djd

ti. paftn' Ni/l nori rlr st,tor ruAurnnr c d oist. ddos rh. rdp.daogdrr dar a' danssilL irct.ft, a nE ddr6{iU Lr ldigd rrdd'4i

cur our rhedM. (5) Ab

the

(l) cormrins dc drn lin6, (2) surL $. ptts, sprntd by : disdnc. .qu,l to om I'at ft anoud oJrrr ,rai{d ddaddldqrj', b ' niP of paP4 vid. 4 Lh. b6e 6 th. epar& (4),{b lh. lds of Gc ,lans.

l}.i,t

conroul (6) cll rh.

Hg'12ns/h.and.predpel|en trtur9wipt*6 ta)Paw.d

fudelda|Mdepb'wlh|hedafu dabl m a papq patch lb) P'dffi "nhEc6bu6o||Edfudadg6

Ebrc the e'ics b rhrl prs

i\

',,.,,

A
aha,Deh,9ed5h;

,(
\":).'

//

tve 1olrabht euidettustaharetu

du( inu,d .uNingrsuks

noFbn\
spx.dd:nr:(l)tk!Ll(!l

ri i,kc r fom

3i+hr 5ids on da s r ri. contr6: (l)rri!! Ltu5ilhor ( 2 1[ n l a q c , r s i h o r d r ] l l .tuu b r! orur,//Jv tutridr$5 c)lnLrEL,hr!l6rnt Rrriremd\ drL ri{ 'JEonn ,I dr A.(d rJ.!l {orn c) Dnrd. rht nrhotr{r

doDr or bo\l (Fis 1.1 3) n i rIr to, ( , l0 D ,r ,ri dl!, r,

rr,!(b, rqurrihs ,h r.DsrrN olrlr ilhour Ind eDlar[e lDls (!).d qrrh.rirF.

drrrrrld LJd?ri,tiL/ri

orrrrdrb(F,s :6) rh.s. r n.'r rQi+r.sidcd Pdr,, hb

!Js!) 15).oFp{. Llrrj11,0,

I'o$ oDrlr rsh, rdt orrr hl)

se'is or prsr ,67) I'ordrB

ror Enred fonns slu\ncd Nih nul'iph ddi enlnlc and .qulEe rrodrrts rhe non pEcne aM di rblE Gsur6 stash rnd 3prtad li.s soft*h.a in bdweo rh. 8ks, :nd fin xrd erral8c-rnd .qui'. djdaht 6 r lom.a ndr r pE. . t r r l n el a @ r r r r h d f ndhod d{ add5aruund rh. dars 6 ( rcdmc rnid. lhEdnE lhnh ol rht Jancd form an cfi.( lhd

who dialrns dansbl 5rishins Rndspftadins.rrr $idrn dI rhd dciuL d.vdidn m,y trednid.d rh. err cdg. \\rcn plfnidg rhe drb rora circularshepr b. ro nleq.d .od equalicd, ,noi. drtu Prcduc a motupdr.dly rouoded Idrm ,haD ,lans,andr nlhoF lss dn6 ro modd rtro x smoo(hty bunded Iom rhRn sl,shrlr r cuning lrhoudr For drnpL. .v,l sLapsrcquir ooE d3r6d rhc

sn r . .enenta, bdne :AbB ,a d t1Fdr4) b ant""ia4 tre,,"i.-

r. ftss rlr df6. dPenins nr ian dro{'icsof'nnDcd dai6, l{st Prcs on r p,dd.d hondius.rheo. r poinrpft$, d'a ll aid rh. slnpins of rhe rabriclbrn Fhser pN darc 4. fo rirnl rrr .ds. or 1 d:ned rorm.hhd or firt rht cdse.tin. qirh a duplicdc or drcdan d rhe drtb. roslbilf. r orkr 5hap.ol a drhd lom sw rhr .d36 roa ba*.tr' fion $c

Nots & VARtAfloNs

!s thr gfts.and{ tr nclnod b, advcmroE ruDwi$ daft w'd on. suidinspnhdple in riir tu lnoum rhord by dr d,'cpadi. frrh pap< ud nous! {rh rhc rabncro crc!. i:d fr,n nEish and dryhs dans Fdrgd riminins anddlon, de .(r3$ b b. unftnry mnbmd drhbiri) of rhendhod ex"torc wfunonrclGanisuc'U*lne r,tnirre Edhods b d.vddP Pr 6s b nn..dimedonil tdlc

Tdnidtrnrnd rhc o,lss.nnd, quali:t n.rnod bdrq. risurlnc dr o+ilar pnhn lh,r. 6 rhesjthou dr dr shadoLv I ftrte.diEn ionoI arlom rnrsin rtr dric .ld idn or lo{.nns ftc Jea oI r]t pa(dtr shaPe vhilt k(ping rhcoub si. .nd lhaPe, si mddshdorq lh. rn. $h. ro. rhn Erlt, s .onbr& ion ol dne b6si Pnn.ipt6 rpptr.s b dd rormrton: o ) rnl,Bontnr .'tualehalfrhed6ind d*?do/ dcpth.(2) rhe anroum hbic ol Eno!.d bya din xr irsqidd Frnr Poim.(l) Afttr dnhjns rh. dcrc. rcflkr rlr shap.oI rht o.giid pi!

siul. d:n Gl$h nl sp'!d) d'd dmN 1hl nor d rh.silhoudr (.nlr4 udqulEo aE Lhe noi Lhnr$uDdflllom$L Erp.d ld rsr r'!i ({ljtr{ hcl)td{r 'rt dc lul

ry\L
.ddi.{hi!hlPfus fri.. d..o]1. I dinofbnnt.d

ir rlr linc n,d .rod ou,rronr Nr!( (!lip {,d rm LINiqo oLllr dll0 !$rnrLLr td $ri(

\ludBtufa,hldns

{! add.J

rr.d

d lr

od

nrlltbr5r.

rfrh. v,nishinglroins nrn oI drE o! oPPqne q dF(' cdscs rcEsed on rhe PrEn an adiun

nof ldo,. (rhDg n( rpcxofrlr

vrLasorsd. dars (Fis D r0) ,hQd5 0r rlre ntrv.. datu .o'v-l J(/ld nrDl !rry$ I nilhhsrDb

It

Nirh nrshr irrnroB (r1 r2-sl

+_
Fis 12na sutuce tu6: (a)Fded b are side tb)AdtGtedar he @t@ tal nabhhs eds6 at thebse te) cnteEd avetthedad setu td) caerhaped pni4hns dsdhnned at lt basa

! N.LL fO \TEf

t,;i

@ '\i! @c lrft irt d! iic rj. oi qerari or ii!i. 4!Gq J!lporre::!horen3trri,/jd.af,! n,,'|Tl n. r tl rF1fldr lif,r ir!

,i 4 ri ,ra. A .r f f! 5:t.ti i n or ,:r . i/. r) i tu... 4 ; ia, t, t+r) r9r tu ral lsr!i,r:frr!r-r
!.|t: );||'!;|n

19 ri,Pr! i.q
q.a a'tjl1,| lrl

i \ril

ir,..t \r .rE:i..i r-,- ir

rrni.( li ri-

'_ ,!r!r r!

in.i fifir.ir.\

ii3
I rr'-ir!tf!! i

!i!.r!,.

rirqti:i,!r-iicr

r,

f,.ti.?

Itf

DouBl E-PoINTED
DART

NroDs & ViRrAno\s

r h r r r r r r r L r r d r L { r o r i n th
bl!N r.lrL{tr lAs r L)

d..i,r\ h rLrr,, D.$orrrl hN. r

Fs 1242 la) Dobte @Dbd dan a Inpensa|e|a||1fu.|fravedbf rhed'd tb) cutuhe dad+Fhd

$n!hl]]llhLo|$*l!Nncd

(rLg lr L|.drqtrtr,gp!:nbn1

!k.?l.rrsd,naourrr( [n

scuu*clipping rdatu hrdrir prurD lakens rhenrms$ of rhe

$Er! the dnnnsionariq,of dr l,bh..dtr{rudioi r..rt&, dln panm', u{ gridd.dFp?i 'o d.!be ddublcpohrd dar6.combined Nrh nngL.poinkd datu d rhe ab. ndcdccc(od{.h'lanoniB

Th. bctorcdd msurm.d rnd fie zfGrdai merurement reld a a ursd mqsumd. Afiri nnchins

rh. wbng sid. oLlhc tabff pull rlr tabdcdovn ar fte ends. w]ren snlhed on lnEdshr side.thridbk tuldssuppdnh.igtu a, 6rh .nd (Rdd ro's(unng D:n sea'ru' on P4 267) ro varuft a dan pnsqu,rcol hbric Lo.k ( bolh sida orlncsd.hcdioplq rhq willb. qunr dificrcnl M!6uE drehbric

rhc dcigr dr 'hc 4shr d wruns sid. olrhelabric(Fis. 12 lr)

non h.ld jun abovc r fibnc Allor b coolanddry bforemor ing.Tdlibil'zr ioddY,llr a.k r][loNpoinboL r rchctb r nrti Unrsurl fonnarions rtsuh whcn5lndqdansre *Ichd Nidlh, and s.ulpd rLr Lcnsrl,. ilnedionoI rhedrc, rh. *p{& and\qons sidr nirchins.coin

+ < > < : +

< > + + > + +

8:84 ZA\ o:o:oVZA\V ++ A\v7x VZA\V

A\ l^\ l^\

srio6. rolil5on the surfa( become licun'i? daign .l.d&s ddn conspicuous. somdrn6. G,n Gt sulpd &bricrhn undrrlirs rh.

++

\VZ

!r, kirn !ri ji I , r , i,.1,i , {l rini rcFo., re +,iii,?!r. rt I it ! Gi d.,rrNrir{ ii! ne,!l Di,l! i I i .d, ,jdi r:!,,f i.., lii.ri.,ff r,k',f ai,lj.Nrir,h{/,q, ?4

11hr) r,: t ceN1t. .1 lnr"r.-r-, di i,t gF ir int ro. r r.era J q4r ! irrlr I' r it ii: :nr. io. of, ri ilf 1i 5 !, r.: {trjn,r.,k r,i , ri - rfur rer,a.r! 4&n.! iG r 4s ad 5!llir.r r; i i4 r 5 r r.nr n \

DOL]ELE O NTEDDART P

rlrjir::aoiTLili:!''{T(roiNxl!i,.]'rdll d,n Ai ir-..:.!i re lFr r. !,- er oi a! r;ni

DOUBLE.POINTEO

+ ifiiil oliJiui !@:r!( , !r4 j r? liqlr drr { !i b.rr 3iu:!

t'
finH.tlJ.ri
:tt l H
t Vrt

1.

+
+

+
+

l
*

-t
'#

*. *.

Manipulations

73 Combinrrtions
TEcHNreuE
VARTATToNS

ffi,,,W

rEiNJlo6

./ r4de.tshrd r 5

,8ue he loh. qh tr4lki

. {n

it rs5 i n. r0!d!d l.F.

lei,h.r,:-

hri h-.,,.r

J rr.

isd

CREATIVECOMBINAIIONS

i
.di

, .:f

.D

iiirsr.ir
jl ]i]ifi r -1 rr

.i:clr-.,i-i.i
l ] i . . . .i . I ' ,.1. i

n '. i:i,'i.

:i

.r !11,r

r ?ir!r
Mr

o,-nli ,l,irderrrr
il

i&5:!.1'l(J!.r,rl:lLIl!2flierl(r4'riigl] 5i!-.@rr.uiiri(r

:aa.}8,

.'RJ'
\$.

7
j:l

s
-znS

l;tit

illrl plli

-1 .
'^.

)r*"'

i'+r.'l

t1 tf iI

'1"

'*-t-

, --j,' '.r'

i" ,==

Appendix
HAND STITCHES
BAcKsrrrcH

becinningrcPhcingaLiotitheeid

trcm ight b rert (s*s a d re. toN f refr haided) Br is a threrdcd

lrmm) to rhe rcht of the emergrn thread tor an *n bac!'dkh, make nrrh 7r'(6mh) on3mder. i pmm) ii rrcft ot rh .m4s ng

Fig.Ai. (a)EEn backtteh lb) Har ba.kstueh sutiE wrhtuek l.)

br n3 r of y/ (rmm)h iron. Eri mrh re sdrch (i) h Fg.A.r)rhe ig sdrhe5 Makis 2 nrth h" ( .nm) or z" (6hm) h front of the eme4 is thred rirtu the needrein@ the hbft %" (3mh) b the r shr ol the A Fmm) n nont (b) ii Fiq r).For

BASflNG

b eri tss$ dr dn*oE f eri. handed).For bnting. make ven

rlgme.eightstyeod$e5ijfrh

lengih I b&kas n rront (h) n Fi!.A ) For unryen b6rh3,hk of rhe slrhce((b) n FsA-2)

OvrRaAsr SirrcH

LADDTR sttrcH

/'" lrmm) bcow se ar edge; mow ahad !" l6mn)for $e rc{

BrIN:DirrrcH
sed rc aPPl46 a folded edse rc

n]tchntrcdicdlom'3htbeft (re86e a dredotrir t.hmded).

righrrc err(rsss:rrdr4bN ir reit.hmded).Br is se ned e !P

bke a i rch Ln" (3mm) ong N de nd r,,(rrm) on3hsidethe

rt' {6mm) :had.0d fr" (rmm)

ihe 4P q!: rod x" (3hm)ahad nrhs.pullthethread hut (G) n

CArcHsrircH

(",,'.)-1
Fis A.4.Laddet *hh la) ct6ns

rrom left ro right (rd.*e i direc rm, ' eftnan&d)on rhewrcis

a nrd rf pnn) on3 is de . aPPLiqud! eqe.wrhdr forded ,/t" (3mm) ahead. is rte reep eme'g th@d iu* uder.he rord ie
ededseolthe!pP|iq!aAit{ir

cdch oie or irc ihreids or rhe

(b) h Fg.Ar).aid refer6 (oh

OVERHAND SrrrcH
co*,firn hind nrh 6ed ro d. io i No folded or fiikhed ed8es.

S PSTITCE

TAIoR TAc(s

tsrcrred rrcmr d'r b reft{r*e6e

ar dir4oni if eflhanded) the m to reft o. rert rc risht To join M folded or finLhed ds6. alinrhe edseol a singe-fordhm or fidns lldvin3 fdrErd 7/' (6nm), P .k uP nit hes. q+ nit.h,,ngerh Fof needre foMrd %" mm)ii ihe (6mm),Prk !P M chdcdge@thel:bftsdeh*ih. or thrce 6@d, bedamagedb/othgmarkigab

the Pd4n 6 the rish. side or 6e

tuhd(.workry frcm. shr6 rert

(de&

a drredoErf efi-hnded)

P! de thread geirt b s{urc the

be@$ lhe nitchs cis.Ar) c4 reno ihe Partsn To Fxk M laye6 ot abr c ar oi.e. lave v*t

(lcm)and

ihe dreadsbftei

SrABsrrrcE
Rui\iMN6 STrrcH
iwo :d on, ( r) P6h 6e reedre rhe fab&. {1) tush rhe reedre ba.k myoutolihe|abrcsEh*tchigs

TAcKNc
wdkins rrcm idi b eft (trEe r d reldos r hft haided). dd ihe hands rthes. ofren 5Eb* tched,tha! join one e em.m b ano6s r coF

WH|PSmcHlNG

wte.sdthhngdddd]esPae

GLOsSARY
APPI raur,
(r)sma 4shaPede6r 6b' . (2)ro rdd of fab a 5mdrotod ot

e 5 ( 5 ) A n e m e b cm d w c c 'e cr p po iis (6) colofed pfl. s

Gn.trN

ddeie6riibrrGs Percik madeby BercDw a shsPerofo qsss (7)r{han c P$! with

BrAJ
0rt&m
(o4EheideosrhgEhoi6e

IlrM ArLo$AN1a
e d4 Nq{ 6e q ,E (e)a (r:ck Pssed hro rre toPwlh

IRoN

BODKJN
qe q a tuer' 3r P.d$iqred to

(r0) re|8rhs ft.hins berore r fades.

FAcJNc

CRosscMlN FI\'6m Pluss

E.458

IINJNc

FLUTE

fa'twthrisksidesrog{he|

EDct:srfic
f; (r.smm) froF a ro dd edge o. sem|hewiththelabl.ishride4

NEEDLE MoDELUNG FoL DATIoN

FArRrc-SAEMAru<rar

nsier^rrr,5 r! hP p&m,nen, ren4o6/i./ ot' atnorc oi ,re hcndd fdbrr beto 4bs rifker hdude:(r) Pii4d dht/rsEd fordr (2) s! $o, nips md rcrh* in (r) B*.n8 md 6i *an a6hi.s ror 6.ks. t4J Bhckb@i chak da k

NPs

SIABILEE
-(r)ro aarc eadeGd *itd n3

SrAYsflTcHrNG
shghtsdthhgbymachhe

NorcEEs
(^) mrkh$ on the des of P*.

,lls:ie.sd/nit h is pEna the edselrcmjrerhrigaid'whenrhe

or rabd.rro 3ql G) ro addrrnre$

{shi 5ide or r sqsitched. rr. .

eim rrokic*. iedons ouiside

STAa[zER
-rftr al rbsre, or dde usd to addimEs b hbdc ( r) ftmf-

STEAM BrocK, SiEAM

PrN MATCH

PRrss

PREis
abft r tEhed. (r) rhPohrt

QurLr-As-You-Go

Mdhod oI quilthsthd 5ErE by

bondedbtheba.kofthefound&

latiom,adju* rord: ur a rhe md

whkh eDlccE i6 smrllersegmenB ''hpquikisl apa*ment quikhsi'

areftlly bm aq/ nom the ( rhs

Drrc[ SnrcH-lN-THE
ftgeredb/6efo|dofadGed

RucHE, RucHrN6
rtmPoEr, hshioi wr tins, ottli

STAY
-{ )IoPftftanaf P! adon

STRnTGIiFGMTN

(2) 36birde. s6birizii3hbft iurby

STR4IGHI rHE oF

SEAM ALrowANcE
sPc beseq $e cu! edse rnd

lurr*ry unden theentrcm:dp- FABnrc e lladdlrohedsebed3e|iP:d,| 3 a y u n d e ] e s ' h e m a n i P l l : @ d * ch i d d e d o n p a n e f t b y a | o n g ' tion ot the frbic.a round*ioi, a hc

SuForK Pu-.as
G e, a sr p or 6bnc,Ep., of r bbon

SEllTDGEs
LensdF; edsPs dw@i

rabrrc. 'he h6d of a Psied :migems9

hlhisboo|.s!tro|kPutrsT!eed

TEMPLATE

SELEcTED BIBLIoGRAPY BooKs

!mUBbidgldqub|$doiol

ToPsnrcH
btdFq:emontheightside or ih.6bf . rhdd 1r arc, u ne th,t s.n.d appbpnr. b Ey ab. r.d and considncd r woih dr h. ifr ldutrdonerir c c}niqu., id.x.oi.!cnrhi thrinq6d 'hd roilss dosnt indude any of rh,lcoBEr or nd$1i3 mdi. 'han a skd.h or a d.finr,on inlilu.bh b hq bur nd {oud io juniry I rcftnn- rdr i.adds 10 !o6uh. r do mon,n.nd rhe londsns:

YtrkNtrh.!iqPt${AsUdD

frcj(r DFi{D

4 1 Dairb

Nlv rn!k, NY oli5"td

UNDERST[cH
-ro *ddr 3drthb, h&hhe

D."s{ }i!

fa(erabrt.rld,(r.shm)frcmlhe ingrrcmrcningtothefrciirrrhe

r{4 (ird ol r,Eir3

xr hnn.

\t'ADDrNc
.o,Phr ts@r otvefu. !,i1r4 hd l}rndoJn!4 rh. F.dnds rn. of
$rb* tuDrrd. 6!d. &ni,n!hAi,

ti( tuh.n cd,kl. ri.er oiF .

Ndko4

rtrlroPrk

eidsre ohi N(rrso {

ti E(!roP..rk '.t vrhio

PublsdoN'hqoncimn'FbrLhd
bIAwco9o].|!iddl33] cryq Gn.i.. {d Ho+$ Jnn. ."prk !'41 ul N.rdk.ril, N6! Yqk NY6edHoq{ksPinsb*519fl' Dd/ .n[ addsJo r{ rorD4k, NE:$]lNb|Eed]ryiln[ol10'+ Hdr. cirerF vGblsh 54 &!rrn,N colbr &cil aliidn N$ Yqr. N _ En'i r?r'j4 oI tunl, Dd(d dr 2d&i Brc*tn.N rkBooL$ r,.s4h!rhM.ul'

Hub! Jsh,r

cud4bm,

rnied bl aurr PubrLhq LDitrd,

6yChdFcsd'Erfi'l96,ind

h po$b t6s ld lrrree.lime.sionomo.plor.n or pcoinq tl.king shni.rl ond qu l fobrc gotherna, ng wovef moleros-ore seem'ng ende$ Io nes.rbe v h them orlwo! .i be ro descrbe ilre ent LA n.rY 01selr n9 h the An af l'lad.otaung Fabttr,Co lre Wollfhosser her on.lshes!.ceedsbr Lonivw.* ng from serjls hs tosk. m e s m p e j p o $ b e r o m o 3 o 1p e c e o f . o r h o . c o ir.ea.led .eede shec.teqo 2eso molordmensono'

t'

Tedr. q!es, sho* how they .re reoied dnd g ver ex.m pres vorot onsbo]l]nadil..o o.d modcm Theres!I j ol on encyclopedoo1te.h.Lqleslnd roslno.e,resh.p'_ ond recodru.fiobric. r6struc1lre v Moe rh.n 354dogcms slpp !,soizd l.1ob,.od llenec coteg.ret thonspeci:

v fondsomephorogo eres sh.w.os: lhe breolhl.r.e po$iblles n eoch ledrniqueo slond.o by emph.szngihe scupi!d rbbn. slricc" w r iorrrond sh..low Y lexlie ofst5.nd qu le6, osael osoormenlond nome t'e hlrzonswtrh \'l <leco.sewe6 erpon.lllre rdoslgn o mosl idit ei eitech lrior con be och e!-.d

t.|koi/.|heihe|JLdr4o||h.c$fune

s B N0 - 6 0 r , 3 - a q ! t :

publications

ilililililt