| | | Bone Inserting a zipper into a dort When making a four-panel skirt, a zipper can be inserted either into a back seam or into a side dart, Here we show you how to insert zipper into a dart. This method produces a less bulky result and is therefore better for a narrow skirt style. The dart is marked on the pattern piece. Trace it onto your fabric and then mark the center of the dart with basting. The upper horizontal line marks the end of the zipper. The lower line marks the end of the dart The dart is finished with a piece of lining fabric cut to the length and width given in the instructions. If possible, cut it out with pinking shears. Pin the piece to the right side of the garment so that the center of the lining lies over the line of basting. Secure the piece of lining fabric with diagonal basting all around. Stitch down to the zipper mark along the lines of the dart from the wrong side of the fabric. Cut along the center of the dart to the zipper mark through both layers of fabric Now cut about 05cm (%”) further on the garment fabric only so that you can press the dart more easily and neatly. Trim the seam allowance on the cut edges of the dart Fold the dart, right sides together. Stitch the dart from the zipper mark down to the point (marked with pins in the photograph). Be careful not to catch in the lining. Press the dart on a tailor’s ham. Turn the lining to the inside and press the edges, being careful that the lining does not show on the right side, There will be a pleat at the end which should be pressed flat to one side. Trim the outer edges. | in the zipper so that it is covered equally by both sides. Check that there are no bulges or wrinkles. Baste in both sides of the zipper from bottom to top with diagonal basting. Try on the skirt once more and then, when satisfied with the fit, stitch in the zipper, being careful to make the lines of stitching straight and even. Sew Craftful:com & Sew Craftful.blogspot:com ee ee