CONTENTS

Foreword 9

Introduction: Imagine Rome 11

1 THE WATERS OF ROME 23

ITINERARY 1: Rome and Its Aqueducts:
Parco degli Acquedotti 24
ITINERARY 2: Water and War—On the Gianicolo 32
ITINERARY 3: The Strange Career of the Tevere 42

2 THE NAZIS IN ROME 57

ITINERARY 4: Hitler and the Germans Come to Rome 64
ITINERARY 5: The Nazis and Fascists in Central Rome 76
ITINERARY 6: Attack and Reprisal—A Story of
Partisans and Nazis 83
Part 1: Via Rasella 84
Part 2: Via Tasso 87
Part 3: The Fosse Ardeatine 92

3 BEYOND THE WALL: LIFE AND COMMUNITY IN A

TWENTIETH-CENTURY SUBURB 95
ITINERARY 7: Piazza Bologna: The Architecture of
Modernism and Fascism—and Shopping 96
ITINERARY 8: In the Parks, on the Streets, and in the
Homes of the Famous, If Not Rich 112
4 GETTING AWAY INSIDE ROME 127
ITINERARY 9: Monte Mario 128
ITINERARY 10: On the Banks of the Aniene 137
ITINERARY 11: Parco del Pineto 146

5 GETTING AWAY OUTSIDE ROME 153

ITINERARY 12: Monte Cavo 155
ITINERARY 13: Tuscolo from Frascati 163
ITINERARY 14: Walking and Climbing Amid the
Waters of Tivoli 170

6 AFTER SIX: CULTURE 181

Contemporary Art (with Extras) 182
Vernissage (Gallery Opening with Extras) 185
International Academies 188
Centri Sociali (Social Centers) 191
Bookstore Entertainment 193
Cinema 195
Jazz 197
Case (Houses of Culture) 203

7 AFTER EIGHT: FOOD AND DRINK 209

Appio Latino Restaurants 209
Around the Block in Flaminio 214
ITINERARY 15: An Evening in Pigneto 218
Wine Bars 222
Rooftop Bars with Views 227

Acknowledgments 233

Index 235
 LIST OF SIDEBARS
Popes’ Symbols: Reading Monuments 38
Scooters and Cycles 54
Standing Water: Conquering Malaria 60
Angels & Demons 78
Fascist Numbering System: How to Date a Building 85
The Jews in Rome: A Brief History 91
How to Order Coffee 99
Shopping for Real Estate, Just for Fun 100
Woman with a Gun: Lunch with
Francesca Mambro at Penny Bar 104
Drinking Fountains (Nasoni) 116
What’s in a Villa or Via (the Name)?
Reading the Landscape 121
The Arch: From Rome to St. Louis 143
The Partisans of the Colli Albani (Alban Hills) 161
Joining an Italian Hiking Group 174
One-Glass Trattoria 213
Toasting Tactics 224