Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 16

1

.........................................................................3
..............................................4
.......................................................................4
..........................................5
....................................................................5
.................................................6
................................................................8
.......................................................................9
......................................................10
o ...................................11
....................................................11
........................................................11
Friends..........................................................12
o ...........................................13
.......................................................13
............................................................13
..........................................................13
...................................................15
..............................................15
........................................................................15



.
.
,
.
.


,
( ).

( ),

,
.
,
.
3
.
, .
11 9
.
.
. ,
(.. )
. 1
.
9 8,5 .


. , .

. 1/2.
,
. 9 8 .

. 8 .
,
UIAA.
1. :
. 80
1,71 .
5 .
2. (Impact Force):

.
,

.
.
3. :
. UIAA 8%
80 .
.
top-rope .

. , , ,
top-rope, .
top-rope ,
. ,
, .
, UIAA,
(CE) ISO.

.
.
: .
. ,
.
,
,
(, )
..
5 . Spectra, Dynema
. ,
, ,
.
.
: . 5-6 ,
.
800-1000 .
, ,
, . ,
.

.



, .
, , ,
, .
,
.

,
.
.

,
.
.



. 6 (UIAA) .

.
.
(Vibram)
. 2 ,

.
.
.
,
. ,
.
7 .
( )
.

.
, ,
. .
Velcro.

( )
.
.
.
, .

.
,
.
.
( loops)
.

loops
.
:

.
(loops). ( ),
.
,
.



.
.
,
.
.
.
,
(..
, ).
.
.
.
.
,
.
( )
.
. ,
.

. ,
.
Comment: a: , b:
, c,d,e: .

,

. Reverso Gri-gri Petzl.
Reverso
, .
.
,

.
(81g).
.

Gri-gri
.
(
),

(
)

.



.
.


.

Gri-gri
, ,
.
. Gri-gri
. 10
mm 11 mm , .
.
,
.


. ,
.
k (1 kN = 100 )
.
.

( ),
3
(
).
UIAA 19,5
kN 4 kN .

.

.

, .
D
(
). D
D .


.
.
.
,
,
. ( )

.
, .
(HMS)

.


( , ) .

.

(, , )
.



. 10 30 .

.

(, friend) , .

10


,
.
, (
), , friends,
(, )
.


:
.


.


.


( ).
,


.

.
(, )
.

, .
,

.
(
) a b
.

(hexentrics) :

.




.

11


, ,
.
(a)
(b).
, (b).
.
, ,
. ,
(b), .

FRIENDS: SLCD ( Spring Loaded


Camming Devices). Friends
70
,
.

, ,

.
,
friend .
,
.
Friend
, ,

.
,
.
Friend
.

.

,

.
friend,

( )




.
friend
. .

12

( )
. ,
.
friend,
. ,
.


:

.
.
.
.
90
.
.
.


.

.

.



.
:

.
( )
.


.

.

.

13

:

. .
,
,
.

,
.
.

.



.

,
.
,

.
.

.
,

,


.

14


.
,
.
.
.

,
, ,
.
,
.

.
,
.

.

, (, ),
,
.
,
.
,
.
.
.
.
(cliffhanger)

.




.



()
.

15


Mountaineering: The Freedom Of The Hills, 7th edition, The Mountaineers
Rock Climbing, Phil Watts
The Climbers Handbook, Garth Hattingn
22, 23, 25


www.petzl.com


.

.
( , ,
)
.

.

:
2003

16

You might also like