the

style y guy
from cuffs to khakis, glenn obrien that concern you most

answers the sartorial issues

most asked questions >

25

Pants

2
No Tanks

Underwear

Brown Shoes Blues

> > I work with rather conservative dressers.
An older coworker and I disagree on whether my brown shoes are appropriate with a navy suit. I contend they are an obvious choice over the black-and-blue look. Please help.

> > I find tank-style undershirts much more

T h e re a re m a ny o l d e r m e n w h o w i l l g o t o t h e g ra ve b e l i e v i n g t h a t we a r i n g b ro w n s h o e s w i t h a n a v y s u i t i s m o ra l l y w ro n g . A c t u a l l y, i t i s we a r i n g l ig h t e r b row n s h o e s w i t h a n a v y s u i t t h a t i s w ro n g . Yo u r s h o e s s h o u l d b e a t l e a s t a s d a r k a s yo u r s u i t . I f yo u r b ro w n s h o e s a re o f a d a r k n e s s a p p ro a c h i n g b l a c k , yo u a re o k a y. I f t h e y a re t a n n i s h , t h e o l d m a n i s r ig h t , a n d yo u s h o u l d b e b a n n e d f ro m t h e exe c u t i ve wa s h ro o m . T h e re i s n o t h i n g w ro n g w i t h we a r i n g b l a c k s h o e s w i t h a n a v y s u i t , s i r. A s k a ny a d m i ra l .

comfortable than T-shirts. But they are inevitably going to show through a white or pastel-colored broadcloth dress shirt. Is this a faux pas? When I see an older, out-ofshape dude with one showing through, I think it looks nerdy. But when I see a younger guy with a good build dressed this way, I think he looks pretty studly. Whats your opinion?

I d i s l i k e u n d e rs h i r t s s h o w i n g t h ro u g h a s h i r t . U n d e r we a r s h o u l d b e fe l t , n o t s e e n o r h e a rd . O n e o f t h e v i r t u e s o f h e a v i e r fa b r i c s l i k e ox fo rd c l o t h i s t h a t t h e y re n o t s e e - t h ro u g h . A c t u a l l y, w h e t h e r I s e e t h e u n d e rs h i r t o f a n o l d e r, o u t - o f - s h a p e d u d e o r t h a t o f a s t u d l y, b u i l t yo u n g g u y, I h a ve t h e s a m e re a c t i o n : Pu t yo u r s h i r t o n .

Kilts make for a greatif bravechoice at black-tie functions.

Accessories

4
Bondage

Formalwear

Sock it to Me
>> There seems to be an ongoing debate about
whether socks should match shoes or slacks. I believe GQ has said socks should match slacks, but does that apply only to certain color combinations? I wear khakis and black shoes with tan socks. My friends say the socks should be black to match the shoes. Please advise.

>> I have it on good authority that it is now

de rigueur for men to accoutre their dinner jackets with only braces, preferably black, and no cummerbund. My boss thinks otherwise and has bet me a martini that Pierce Brosnan wears a cummerbund in The World Is Not Enough. Can you clear this up?

M y a d v i c e i s , n e ve r l i s t e n t o yo u r f r i e n d s . I f yo u re g o i n g fo r a ve r y fo r m a l l o o k , yo u s h o u l d we a r b l a c k s o c k s w i t h a b l a c k s u i t , n a v y w i t h n a v y. I f yo u l i k e , yo u c a n m a t c h yo u r s o c k s w i t h yo u r t ro u s e rs , a s yo u re d o i n g . B u t m a t c h i n g s o c k s w i t h yo u r s h o e s i s n t s u c h a s m o o t h m ove . I t w i l l m a k e yo u r b e a u t i fu l , ex p e n s i ve s h o e s m o re i nv i s i b l e , o r yo u l l l o o k a s i f yo u h a ve b o o t e e s o n . B u t s o c k s c a n a l s o g o t h e i r ow n wa y. I f yo u re g o i n g s p o r t y, yo u m ig h t h a ve t h e m re f l e c t t h e c o l o r o f yo u r s h i r t o r swe a t e r. I f yo u re we a r i n g a s u i t , t h e s o c k s c o u l d re f l e c t t h e c o l o r o f yo u r t i e . O r t h e y c o u l d b e a n o t h e r c o l o r a l t o g e t h e r, a s l o n g a s i t m a t c h e s t h e re s t o f yo u r l o o k i n t o n a l i t y a n d s u b t l e t y. A m o n g my fa vo r i t e s a re my n a v y s o c k s w i t h small white polka dots and some black socks with small re d D e v i l h e a d s o n t h e m . T h e y a d d a l i t t l e s p a r k w h e n I m we a r i n g my b l a c k s u i t a n d a b l a c k s h i r t . A t l e a s t I wo n t b e m i s t a k e n fo r a p r i e s t .

J a m e s B o n d wo u l d n t b e c a u g h t d e a d ( o r e ve n t o r t u re d ) i n e ve n i n g d re s s w i t h o u t a c u m m e r b u n d , u n l e s s , o f c o u rs e , h e we re we a r i n g a d o u b l e - b re a s t e d d i n n e r j a c k e t , w h i c h wo u l d s e e m u n l i k e l y, a s i t m ig h t re s t r i c t a c c e s s t o h i s Wa l t h e r P P K . A s fo r b ra c e s : T h e y s h o u l d n t b e v i s i b l e . I p re fe r w h i t e , s i n c e t h e y d i s a p p e a r a g a i n s t t h e s h i r t . B y t h e wa y, i f yo u re a l l y h a t e c u m m e r b u n d s , a s m a ny m e n d o ( i n c l u d i n g t h e h e f t y, w h o s e c u m m e r b u n d s t e n d t o r i d e t h e u p s l o p e ) , t h e re s a l wa ys t h e wa i s t c o a t o p t i o n .

Grooming

Eyebrow Know-how
>> Ive heard the newest thing for guys
to do is pluck or wax their eyebrows. I am considering it, since my eyebrows look like Harry and the Hendersons, but I dont want my brows to look feminine. What do you suggest?

I thought the n ewe st t h i n g fo r g u ys t o d o wa s r i d e o n top of elevators. A n d w h o a re H a rr y a n d t h e H e n d e rs o n s? But seriously, me n , eye b rows a re n o l a ug h i n g m a tt e r, u n l e s s they make you loo k l i ke yo u h ave t h e o l d S ov i e t p o l i t b u ro g ene. Find a repu t a b l e s a l o n a n d h ave t h e a e st h e t i c i a n o r groomer reduce yo u r eye b rows . Ex p l a i n t h a t yo u d o n o t wish to appear fe m i n i n e , m e re l y n o r m a l , a n d h e o r s h e w i l l undoubtedly g o ex t ra e a sy o n yo u .

If you dont want your colleagues to mistake your beard for scruff, grow it out during vacation.

Do-It-Yourself Breast Reduction

Grooming

>> I have chest hair that ends where my neck hair begins. I would

like to trim this hair, which often pokes out of the top of my shirt, but Im not sure about the best way to do this. Scissors? Razor? Fire? (Well, maybe not fire.) I dont really want to wax it, because I take pride in being the only twentysomething in L.A. who still proudly sports chest hair.

T h e o n l y wa y t o t r i m c h e s t h a i r a n d l e a ve yo u rs e l f a n a t u ra l i s t i c re m n a n t i s t o u s e s c i s s o rs . B u y yo u rs e l f a g o o d p a i r o f h a i rc u t t i n g o r m u s t a c h e - t r i m m i n g s c i s s o rs . G ra b a fe w f i n g e rs o f fu r, a n d t r i m . I d o t h i s a t t h e b e g i n n i n g o f e ve r y b a t h i n g - s u i t s e a s o n . J u s t b e c a re fu l a ro u n d t h e n i p p l e s .

No matter what your frat brothers say, wax is for candles, not your privates.

Every man should own a quality raincoat. Where you wear it is up to you.

Accessories

8
Trust Me

Suits

Pocket L7
>> I read somewhere that pocket squares
are where its at, but every time I attempt to wear one, I end up looking like a bad combination of the Joker and Robert Goulet. How can I wear this must-have without looking like I mustnt?

>> Whats up with the bottom button of a

Fi rs t o f a l l , d o n t g o t h e m a t c h i n g - t i e - a n d - s q u a re ro u t e . I t s t a c k i e r t h a n a m a t c h i n g - s h i r t - a n d - t i e c o m b o , w h i c h h a s a c e r t a i n Ve g a s l a n . S e c o n d a n d I k n o w I m p e r h a p s i n t h e m i n o r i t y h e re I n e ve r we a r a p i e c e o f fa b r i c i n my b re a s t p o c k e t i n t o w h i c h I wo u l d n o t b l o w my n o s e o r t h a t I wo u l d n o t h a n d t o a c r y i n g p e rs o n , p e rc h a n c e n e ve r t o s e e i t a g a i n . I g u e s s i t s o l d fa s h i o n e d , b u t t h e u t i l i t y o f t h e c o t t o n o r l i n e n h a n k i e a p p e a l s t o m e . T h a t d o e s n t m e a n i t h a s t o b e b o r i n g . Yo u c a n f i n d c o l o rs , s t r i p e s , a n d o t h e r d e c o ra t i ve e l e m e n t s i n h a n k i e s , a n d I t h i n k t h e y re fa r c o o l e r t h a n s i l k s q u a re s , w h i c h d o h a ve a c e r t a i n s q u a re sv i l l e n e s s t o t h e m .

three-button suit? I have recently gotten in several arguments because I insist on buttoning my bottom button. Maybe I missed this lesson, but as far as Im concerned, if the button wasnt meant to be used, it wouldnt be there.

S e ve ra l a rg u m e n t s ? H a ve yo u c o n s i d e re d a c a re e r i n law? Oh, I know the type: If God had intended that hole to b e e m p t y, h e wo u l d n t h a ve p u t a b u t t o n t h e re . B u t t h e n , s i r, w h a t a b o u t yo u r n i p p l e s ? S e e w h a t I m e a n ? T h e y re n o t fu n c t i o n a l . T h e y re l i k e t h e b u t t o n s o n yo u r s u i t s l e e ve s . M y g ra n d p a s a i d t h o s e we re p u t t h e re s o yo u c a n t w i p e yo u r r u n ny n o s e o n yo u r j a c k e t s l e e ve , a n d I b e t yo u d b e l i e ve t h a t , j u s t l i k e I d i d w h e n I wa s 6. S o m e t i m e s a b u t t o n i s j u s t d e c o ra t i o n .

Grooming

10
Nip Tuck

Shirts

Is That a Royal Warrant in Your Pocket or Are You Glad to See Me?
>> Ive been looking around for the best
tailor for a bespoke suit. How would I know if the guy is a true gentlemens tailor or if hes just full of hot air?

>> When I wear button-down shirts with

slacks, I always have this bulge of shirt just above the belt. I am 30 years old and trim, and I have just realized I dont know how to tuck in a shirt without looking like a fat slob. Help.

B y t h e i r wo r k s ye s h a l l k n o w t h e m . A s k t o s e e t h e i r p ro d u c t . A n d a s k t h e m w h o t h e i r c l i e n t s a re . I f t h e y t e l l , yo u k n ow t h e y a re i n d i s c re e t .

11

Pants

Pu t yo u r s h i r t o n f i rs t , t h e n yo u r t ro u s e rs . W h e n yo u re c l o s i n g t h e m , b e c a re fu l n o t t o d i s t u r b t h e s h i r t t a i l . Yo u m a y s t i l l ex p e r i e n c e s o m e b l o u s i n g , b u t t h i s i s n o r m a l a n d u n a vo i d a b l e u n l e s s yo u h a ve a we i rd K ra z y G l u e fe t i s h . Yo u m e n t i o n e d b u t t o n - d o w n s h i r t s . M a ny t ra d i t i o n a l , o r I v y Le a g u e , A m e r i c a n s h i r t s a re c u t ve r y fu l l i n t h e t o rs o . M a y b e yo u s h o u l d t r y Eu ro p e a n s h i r t s , w h i c h t e n d t o b e s l i m m e r c u t . S o m e l a b e l s a c t u a l l y o f fe r t wo s h i r t s t y l e s : fu l l a n d t a p e re d . Tr y t a p e re d . O r h a ve yo u r s h i r t a l t e re d w h e re yo u b u y i t . M o s t m e n d o n t re a l i z e t h i s , b u t a d e p a r t m e n t o r s p e c i a l t y s t o re w i l l u s u a l l y a l t e r m e n s s h i r t s fo r a n o m i n a l fe e .

Pleats Help
>> My colleagues and I are debating the
aesthetic attributes of pleats. Do you wear pleats? Do you prefer pleats? Which style of pants do you find more aesthetically appealing? FYI, fluffy pleats are an epidemic in Philadelphia.

12
Cuff Luck

Pants

I we a r b o t h p l e a t e d a n d f l a t - f ro n t t ro u s e rs . M o s t o f my s u i t s h a ve ve r y s i m p l e , a l m o s t i nv i s i b l e p l e a t s t h a t a re t h e re fo r p u re l y p ra c t i c a l re a s o n s . P l e a t s g i ve yo u a l i t t l e m o re ro o m . I wa s we a r i n g o n e o f my fa vo r i t e p a i rs o f f l a t - f ro n t p a n t s t h e o t h e r d a y, h o p p e d i n t o a c a b , a n d b u s t e d o u t t h e b a c k s e a m . A n d t h a t s w hy we h a ve p l e a t s . I d o n t t h i n k a nyo n e re a l l y t h i n k s t h e y re a n a e s t h e t i c e n h a n c e m e n t . To d a y, o f c o u rs e , f l a t f ro n t s a re fa s h i o n a b l e , a n d m o s t m e n s d e s ig n e r t ro u s e rs a re ve r y t r i m a n d 6 0 s l o o k i n g . M y w i fe e n c o u ra g e s m e t o s t i c k t o f l a t f ro n t s , b u t I d o n t t h i n k p l e a t s a re d e a d . D i s c re e t p l e a t s o n t ro u s e rs w i t h p ro p e r l y s i z e d l e g s a re n o t o f fe n s i ve . I t h i n k t h e re a l p ro b l e m i s b a g g y p a n t s . W h o i s t o b l a m e fo r t h e n e o - z o o t b a g s t h a t re fu s e t o d i s a p p e a r ? U n t i l we f i n d o u t , l e t s b l a m e Pa t R i l e y.

>> Is it more stylish or less stylish to have

cuffs on trousers? Recently, my tailor asked me if I wanted them, and I couldnt decide. Is there a certain style of trousers that looks better with cuffs?

C u f fs , o r w h a t t h e B r i t s c a l l t u r n u p s ( n o t t u r n i p s ) , a re a fa i r l y re c e n t d e ve l o p m e n t i n m e n s fa s h i o n . T h e y we re t h e b ig c ra z e o f 1 8 9 3, o r ig i n a t i n g a m o n g t h e m o re fa s h i o n a b l e m e m b e rs o f t h e B r i t i s h H o u s e o f C o m m o n s , w h o we re i m i t a t i n g a n ex t re m e l y fa s h i o n a b l e g e n t w h o t u r n e d h i s t ro u s e rs u p o n a ra i ny d a y . I t h i n k c u f fs l o o k g o o d , a n d t h e y re fu n c t i o n a l , a s t h e y o f t e n c a t c h fa l l i n g l o o s e c h a n g e . ( C u f fs s h o u l d a l s o b e e m p t i e d a f t e r a ro u n d o f g o l f. ) C u f fs a re o p t i o n a l a n d c o r re c t o n m e n s t ro u s e rs , w i t h t h e exc e p t i o n o f e ve n i n g t ro u s e rs , w h i c h a re a l ways wo r n w i t h o u t c u f fs . T h e c o m m o n w i s d o m i s t h a t s h o r t m e n l o o k t a l l e r w i t h o u t c u f fs , b u t i t s s t r i c t l y a m a t t e r o f p e rs o n a l t a s t e .

13

The Missing Link

Shirts

>>In Oceans Eleven, Brad Pitt sports various long-sleeve shirts

with the cuffs unbuttoned. What really caught my attention, however, was that Pitts shirts had cuffs that appeared to be at least twice the length of a standard shirt cuff. What was he wearing?

I b e l i e ve t h a t w h a t t h e s p i f f y M r. P i t t i s s p o r t i n g a re wa n t o n l y u n fa s t e n e d Fre n c h c u f fs . Ka t e M o s s a n d o t h e r g a m i n e s l o o k e d p a r t i c u l a r l y wa i f i s h i n u n d o n e Fre n c h c u f fs w i t h s h i r t t a i l o u t , a n d s o o n t h e l o o k wa s t h e ra g e i n wo m e n s fa s h i o n . N ow i t i s s n e a k i n g ove r t o o u r s i d e . I a d v i s e c a u t i o n , n o t o n l y b e c a u s e i t s h a rd t o c o nv i n c e p e o p l e yo u d i d i t b e fo re B ra d P i t t b u t a l s o b e c a u s e s o m e p e o p l e m ig h t t h i n k yo u fo rg o t yo u r c u f f l i n k s . N o t t o m e n t i o n t h e fa c t t h a t i t s m u c h h a rd e r t o f i n d yo u r h a n d s .

Attempting to remove shoulder pads from a suit is a dicey endeavor.

14

Suits

15

Accessories

Trouser in Suspense
>> Whats this thing with guys not wearing
belts with their suits these days? Is this a good look?

Footloose
>> Ive been taunted for wearing my loafers
without socks. I come from an affluent family, and my mother always said wearing khakis and loafers without socks was completely acceptable. What are your thoughts?

I n e ve r we a r a b e l t w i t h a s u i t . I d o n t h a ve b e l t l o o p s . M y t ro u s e rs a re h e l d u p by a d j u s t a b l e s i d e t a b s , w h i c h p rov i d e a re a s o n a b l e a m o u n t o f a d j u s t m e n t t o a l l ow fo r s e a s o n a l fe a s t i n g a n d fa s t i n g . A g o o d t a i l o r c a n p ro b a b l y re p l a c e yo u r b e l t l o o p s w i t h s i d e t a b s fo r a n o m i n a l fe e , o r re m ove yo u r b e l t l o o p s a n d i n s t a l l b u t t o n s fo r s u s p e n d e rs . S o m e g u ys , a t t e m p t i n g t o l e a d l a v i d a l ow - r i s e l o c a , a re a l l o w i n g t h e i r h i p s o r b u t t t o s u p p o r t t h e t ro u , w h i c h i s s l o p py a n d n o t ve r y g o o d e n g i n e e r i n g . T h e re s fa r t o o m u c h b u t t c ra c k o u t t h e re o n t h e s t re e t s . I f yo u h a ve n o a l t e r n a t i ve , we a r a b e l t . I t l l h o l d yo u r p a n t s u p .

A s a n e a r l y fu l l - t i m e s o c k we a re r, I m s t i l l w i t h yo u . We a t h e r p e r m i t t i n g , i t s g u i l t l e s s t o g o s o c k l e s s . W h a t s u n s a n i t a r y ? Yo u r fe e t ? Yo u r s h o e s ? S o c k s h e l p a b s o r b m o i s t u re , b u t s o d o e s p o w d e r. I wo u l d a d v i s e we a r i n g s o c ks fo r c a s u a l b u s i n e s s d re s s , b u t w h e n that bell rings, yo u c a n f l i n g e m i n t h e b a c k o f t h e A s t o n M a r t i n , b a by.

16

Suits

Pushing Your Buttons

>> I told a salesman today that I was looking
for a two-button suit, and he said, Why do you want a two-button suit? Youre young! Is twobutton an older or mostly professional look? Oh yeah, and whats a suppressed waist?

Garden parties call for summery attire, not work boots and gardening gloves.

T h e n e r ve o f s o m e s a l e s m e n . T h i s o n e ex p o s e d h i m s e l f a s a fa s h i o n v i c t i m o f t h e m o s t u n fo r t u n a t e s o r t . B o t h t wo - a n d t h re e - b u t t o n s u i t s a re c o m p l e t e l y a c c e p t a b l e fo r m e n o f a l l a g e s . S o m e t i m e s t h e t h re e b u t t o n s u i t , p a r t i c u l a r l y t h e h ig h - c l o s i n g ve rs i o n , i s p e rc e i ve d a s m o re fa s h i o n - fo r wa rd . B u t i n fa c t , re a l fa s h i o n h o u n d s s e e m h e a d e d b a c k t o t h e t wo - b u t t o n , b e c a u s e t h e t h re e - b u t t o n h a s b e c o m e a l m o s t u n i ve rs a l , f ro m t h e b u t t o n e d - u p j o c k s o n E S P N t o Wa l l S t re e t t ra d e rs o n t h e s u b wa y. S i n c e I h a ve n o t b e e n r u nway - s i d e re c e n t l y, I a s k e d G Q s fa s h i o n d i re c t o r, M a d e l i n e We e k s , a b o u t t h e re s u rg e n c e o f t h e t wo - b u t t o n , a n d s h e c o n f i r m e d i t : I t g i ve s s u c h a n i c e l i n e , t h a t V fo r m e d by t h e l a p e l s . A s u p p re s s e d wa i s t i s w h a t i t s o u n d s l i k e : a B r i t i s h c u t w h e re t h e j a c k e t h u g s t h e b o d y a ro u n d t h e wa i s t , a s o p p o s e d t o t h e A m e r i c a n t ra d s a c k s u i t , w h i c h fa l l s s t ra ig h t d o w n f ro m t h e a r m p i t t o t h e h e m . M y t a i l o r, J o h n Pe a rs e , t e l l s m e t h a t t h e c l o s e r - f i t t i n g E n g l i s h s t y l e i s t h e re s u l t o f t h e m o t h e r c o u n t r y s l a c k o f c e n t ra l h e a t i n g . W h a t e ve r c a u s e d i t , i t s a c o o l , c o n t e m p o ra r y wa y t o d re s s .

17

Shirts

18

Pants

Arms and the Man

>> I work at a law firm, and during the
colder months I wear flat-front slacks (never khakis) and button-down shirts. In warm weather, I tend to wear polo shirts, but they dont seem to go with slacks. What can I do to keep cool and look good when its hot?

Denim Distress
>> What do you do for jeans? Ive been
trying to buy some lately, but every pair I see seems to have grommets on the crotch, a super-low waist, weird back pockets, and flared legs. I just want basic straight-leg jeans, and unfortunately Levis 501s dont fit me so well.

O n e o f t h e b e s t t re n d s i n re c e n t ye a rs i s t h e re t u r n o f t h e c l a s s i c s h o r t - s l e e ve s h i r t . I c a n t i m a g i n e w hy, b u t fo r ye a rs i t wa s ve r y h a rd t o f i n d g o o d o n e s . I n t h e 9 0 s , t h e y we re p ra c t i c a l l y ex t i n c t , p e r h a p s b e c a u s e t h e y p rov i d e d n o o u t l e t fo r c u f f l i n k s . ( O r m a y b e e ve r yo n e wa s h i d i n g n e e d l e m a r k s . ) H a p p i l y, I f i n d t h a t c l a s s i c s h o r t - s l e e ve s h i r t s a re n ow w i d e l y a va i l a b l e , e ve n i n w h i t e a s h i r t I h a ve l ove d e ve r s i n c e t h e e a r l y d a ys o f N A S A , w h e n a l l t h e c o n t ro l - ro o m g u ys a t C a p e C a n a ve ra l s p o r t e d t h e m . R e c e n t l y, I c o m p l a i n e d o f n o t b e i n g a b l e t o f i n d my o l d fa vo r i t e s h o r t - s l e e ve s e e rs u c k e r b u t t o n - d o w n s , a n d l o , t h e re t h e y we re a t t h e t i m e l e s s p re p s t e r e m p o r i u m J. P re s s . T h e s h o r t - s l e e ve b u t t o n - d o w n i s o n t h e c a s u a l s i d e o f b u s i n e s s c a s u a l , m o re s o t h a n i t s fu l l - s l e e ve c o u n t e r p a r t , b u t I t h i n k i t s q u i t e a c c e p t a b l e i n a s u m m e r c a s u a l wo r k e nv i ro n m e n t a n d fa r b e t t e r t h a n a p o l o s h i r t . T h e b u t t o n - d ow n ve rs i o n i s b e s t fo r b u s i n e s s ; t h e s p re a d c o l l a r s t y l e s h ow s t o o m u c h m a n l y d c o l l e t a g e . M y o n l y p rov i s o i s t h a t s h o r t s l e e ve s d o n t wo r k u n d e r a s u i t c o a t o r s p o r t j a c k e t . R a l p h N a d e r m a y n o t a g re e , b u t t h i s s h i r t i s fo r s h i r t s l e e ve we a r a ny wa y.

I t s g e t t i n g t o u g h e r n o w, w h a t w i t h H e l m u t La n g d i s a p p e a r i n g f ro m t h e s c e n e . B u t re m e m b e r, b l u e j e a n s we re i nve n t e d fo r wo r k e rs , s o w hy n o t g e t wo r k i n g m a n s j e a n s ? I we a r C a r h a r t t j e a n s a n d d ig t h e u n a d o r n e d u t i l i t y, g o o d q u a l i t y, a n d s e n s i b l e p r i c e . A n d l e t u s n o t fo rg e t t h e j e a n s t h a t t h e re a l c o w b oys we a r : W ra n g l e rs . I f i n d t h e m c o o l i n t h e i r n a t u ra l l y wo r n , u n d e s ig n e r fa s h i o n . T h e y r i s e h ig h e n o u g h t h a t yo u wo n t l o s e e m i f t h ro w n by a b u l l . I n c re a s i n g l y, d e s ig n e r j e a n s m e a n j e a n s t h a t s h o w yo u r a s s c ra c k , e ve n i f yo u h a ve a s l i m p hys i q u e a n d n o t t h e u s u a l p l u m b e r s b u t t .

20

Formalwear

19

Wardrobe

Formalities
>> My fiance and I were discussing our
wedding and got into a dispute. She said that black-tie events are semiformal and white-tie events are formal. I could see how white-tie events are more formal than black-tie events, but I disagreed that black-tie events are semiformal. Could you clear this up?

Sine Qua Non

>> You know how women have the little black
dress, an essential piece that should be in every closet? Well, what is the mens essential? I say a classic blue blazer. What do you think?

A c l a s s i c b l u e b l a z e r w i l l g e t yo u a l o n g wa y w h e n yo u re u n d e r 2 1 o r l i ve i n t h e s u b u r b s . T h e re a l e s s e n t i a l i s a m e d i u m - we ig h t g ra y s u i t , w h i c h c a n g o f ro m a we d d i n g t o a t r i a l t o a c o n fe re n c e t o a fu n e ra l t o a h o t date, possibly with a tie change.

I n o u r g l o r i o u s l y d re s s e d p a s t , t h e l i ve s o f m a ny m e n i n c l u d e d a va r i e t y o f e ve n t s t o w h i c h b l a c k t i e a n d w h i t e t i e we re wo r n . T h ro u g h m o s t o f t h e p a s t c e n t u r y, fo r m a l d i d i n d e e d re fe r t o w h i t e t i e a n d t a i l s , a n d s e m i fo r m a l d i d i n d e e d re fe r t o d i n n e r c l o t h e s , t u xe d o s , a n d o t h e r fo r m s o f b l a c k t i e . N o w, a l a s a n d t o t a l l y a l a c k , fo r m a l i s g e n e ra l l y t a k e n t o m e a n t u x , a n d s e m i fo r m a l i s t a k e n t o m e a n d a r k s u i t a n d ( h o p e fu l l y ) t i e . S o yo u a re b o t h r ig h t , i n a s e n s e , a l t h o u g h yo u r f i a n c e i s c o r re c t i n t h e b e s t o f a l l p o s s i b l e wo r l d s .

21

Grooming

22

Suits

Damage-Control Hairstyles
>> When losing his hair, should a man (a)
keep it longish, hoping a higher volume of hair will hide the spots of scalp, (b) keep it tidy and ignore the people who glance at his growing forehead, or (c) crop it short, risking looking either gay or like a thug?

Separate Anxiety
>> What is the difference between a blazer
(or sport coat) and a suit jacket? Can you ever wear a suit jacket in place of a blazer?

A s a r u l e , t h e s h o r t e r t h e h a i r, t h e l e s s o b v i o u s t h e h a i r l o s s . I h a ve wo r n my h a i r c ro p p e d s h o r t fo r ye a rs , a n d a l t h o u g h I h a ve n t l o s t a ny h a i r, I h a ve n o t i c e d t h a t a l l o f my b a l d i n g f r i e n d s w h o h a ve a d o p t e d my s t y l e l o o k yo u n g e r a n d l e s s n o t i c e a b l y b a l d i n g . T h e g o o d t h i n g a b o u t l o o k i n g l i k e a t h u g i s t h a t c o n fu s e d h o m o p h o b e s w i l l h e s i t a t e t o re m a r k o n yo u r a p p e a ra n c e , fe a r i n g yo u w i l l i m p o s e s t re e t j u s t i c e o n t h e i r s o r r y t u s h i e s .

T h e re a l d i f fe re n c e i s t h a t a s u i t j a c k e t c o m e s with a pair of matching pants. Some suit jackets lend t h e m s e l ve s t o i n d e p e n d e n t we a r, b u t m a ny d o n o t . Fo r c o r ro b o ra t i n g e v i d e n c e , c h e c k o u t o l d Le t t e r m a n s h ow s . D a ve t r i e d t o we a r g l e n p l a i d s u i t j a c k e t s w i t h o d d t ro u s e rs fo r a l o n g t i m e b e fo re k i c k i n g t h e h a b i t . I o f t e n we a r a n a v y b l u e s u i t j a c k e t a s a b l a z e r. Lo t s o f yo u n g , s t y l i s h a c t o rs a n d fa s h i o n d e s ig n e rs fa vo r we a r i n g a s l i m , d a r k s u i t j a c k e t w i t h a p a i r o f j e a n s . M o re c a s u a l s u i t j a c k e t s , s u c h a s c o rd u roys o r t we e d s , a re b e t t e r c a n d i d a t e s fo r m o o n l ig h t i n g a s s e p a ra t e s t h a n p i n s t r i p e d o n e s a re .

Three-season suits are great, but not in the dead of winter. Invest in one made from heavyweight wool or worsted flannel.

23

Wardrobe

24

Suits

Cheap Chic
have little cash with which to run to New York and hit the fashion stores. Is there any way for the average college student to look GQ without paying the high price?

Reach for the Thigh

> > I read that a jackets hem should just
reach your cupped palm. I have very long arms and was wondering if I could have the jacket shortened (half an inch to an inch), because it is so long that it makes my legs look short.

> > I love the clothes featured in GQ, but I

T h e re s a l wa ys e B a y, w h i c h h a s t u r n e d i n t o t h e v i r t u a l d e s ig n e r t h r i f t s h o p , b u t a t r i p t o N e w Yo r k m ig h t a c t u a l l y b e wo r t h i t i f yo u h a ve s o m e b u d g e t . T h e o p e n s e c re t o f m a ny o f N e w Yo r k s m o s t fa s h i o n - c o n s c i o u s m e n a n d wo m e n i s t h a t t h e y a b s o l u t e l y h a t e p a y i n g fu l l p r i c e . S t o re s l i k e C e n t u r y 2 1, Lo e h m a n n s a n d Fi l e n e s B a s e m e n t o f fe r l a rg e d i s c o u n t s o n s o m e ve r y d e s i ra b l e m e rc h a n d i s e . ( Lo e h m a n n s a n d t h e B o s t o n - b a s e d Fi l e n e s a l s o h a ve l o c a t i o n s o u t s i d e N e w Yo r k . S e e t h e i r We b s i t e s . ) T h e o t h e r s e c re t o f t h e h i p c h e a p s k a t e i s t h e s a m p l e s a l e . A l m o s t e ve r y d e s ig n e r h a s re g u l a r s a m p l e sales to get rid of seasonal goods. One can find out about t h e m f ro m s e ve ra l We b s i t e s : N ys a l e . c o m , N y m e t ro . c o m , o r La z a r m e d i a . c o m . I f yo u re a l l y wa n t t o d re s s we l l fo r a l m o s t n o t h i n g , h o we ve r, yo u h a ve t o b e c o m e a r i c h c e l e b r i t y. T h e n yo u c a n d e m a n d t o k e e p t h e c l o t h e s t h e s t y l i s t s s u p p l y a t m a g a z i n e s h o o t s , o r yo u c a n wa l k i n t o a d e s ig n e r s s t o re a n d d e m a n d a h u g e d i s c o u n t . B u t i s i t wo r t h i t ?

S o m e fe l l o w s g o by t h e m e a s u re o f t h e j a c k e t s re a c h i n g t h e f i n g e r t i p s o f t h e c u p p e d h a n d . I m o n e o f t h e m . S o m e fe l l o w s l i k e t h e i r j a c k e t s s h o r t e r. T h a t s o k a y t o o , i f i t wo r k s fo r yo u r b o d y. S h o r t e n i n g a j a c k e t i s m a j o r s u rg e r y. I d c o n s i d e r t r y i n g a s h o r t s i z e , e ve n i f yo u re o f a ve ra g e h e ig h t o r e ve n t a l l . S h o r t , re g u l a r, l o n g , a n d ex t ra l o n g a re a b o u t p ro p o r t i o n , n o t h e ig h t . I m u n d e r s i x fe e t , b u t I t a k e a 4 2 l o n g i n s o m e o f f - t h e - ra c k l i n e s b e c a u s e I h a ve a l o n g b o d y a n d s h o r t l e g s .

25

Suits

Stripes Yipes
>> I have a brand-new charcoal gray chalkstripe suit, and I asked some friends what shirt to wear with it. I pulled out a striped shirt, and everyone told me it was wrong to mix a striped shirt with a striped suit. Is this right?

N a h ! S t r i p e s - o n - s t r i p e s i s a p rove n c o o l l o o k . Yo u m ig h t wa n t t o a vo i d we a r i n g s t r i p e s o f m a t c h i n g a m p l i t u d e , a t l e a s t u n t i l yo u h a ve a fe e l fo r t h e l o o k . Tr y t h i n - s t r i p e s h i r t s w i t h yo u r c h a l k - s t r i p e s u i t , a n d yo u should look quite smart. But dont put on a striped tie, or yo u l l l o o k l i k e a C u b i s t .

Alas, getting huge doesnt do much for a suits fit. Theres a reason male models are skinny.