A brief history of wine including wine making instructions and recipes.

beginning wine

by Susan Clemente

Let your boat of life be light, packed with only what you need - a homely home and simple pleasures, one or two friends, worth the name, someone to love and someone to love you, a cat, a dog, and a pipe or two, enough to eat and enough to wear, and a little more than enough to drink; for thirst is a dangerous thing.

Jerome K. Jerome Three Men in a Boat

table of contents
preface 1 introduction to wine + steps in winemaking + history + major producers + wine classifications + wine grape varieties + climate + agricultural techniques. + review 2 before you begin + + + + important information about your equipment using your hydrometer review 22 23-24 25 26 5-6 7-10 11-12 13-14 15-16 17-18 19 20 4

3 making wine from a kit + wine kit ingredients + stages in wine making
primary fermentation secondary fermentation stabilizing and clearing clarifying bottling and corking

28 29
30 31 32 33 34

+ review 4 advanced wine making + + + + + + + making wine with fresh fruit fruit preparation adjusting the acid content red wine recipe white wine recipe review closing

36 37 38 39-40 41-42 43 44 44-45

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wine log

preface

As a beginning home wine maker, I searched many bookstores for a book which was concise and easy to understand. A manual entitled, Winemaking for Dummies, would have been ideal, however such a book does not yet exist. Most books were too advanced, too technical or contained information that was unnecessary for the beginning winemaker. The consequence of my frustration is that I have created a manual that would explain wine in the simplest. This manual is divided into the four sections. Section 1, an introduction to wine, explains to you the background of wine, giving you a general understanding of the history of making wine from the vineyard to the winery. Section 2, before you begin, includes basic information for you need to learn before you begin making wine. It is necessary for you to understand this information before beginning your efforts. A solid understanding of wine terms, equipment and hydrometer use will make your task much easier. Section 3, making wine from a kit, includes important safety information, ingredients and the stages in wine making. Section 4, making wine from fresh fruit, discusses advanced wine making techniques, including several recipes for making wine making from fresh grapes. This section will help you become a successful advanced wine maker. Making your own wine at home can be made easy by using my clear instructions. As a result of making your own wine, you will be rewarded for your efforts with great taste, and economy .

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Wine comes in at the mouth And love comes in at the eye; That's all we shall know for truth Before we grow old and die. I lift the glass to my mouth, I look at you, and sigh.
- William Butler Yeats

1 | introduction to wine |

Section one is particularly important especially if you have no winemaking background. This section includes general information regarding winemaking, history, major producers, wine classifications, wine grape varieties, climate and agricultural techniques. This information may also enable you to be a more effective wine consumer.

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wine, noun, the fermented juice of grapes, made in many varieties, such as red, white, sweet, dry, still, and sparkling, for use as a beverage, in cooking, and in religious rites, usually having an alcoholic content of 14 percent or less.
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Wine is the fermented juice of grapes. The grape species, Vitis vinifera, is used for most wine production worldwide. As many as 4,000 varieties of grapes have been developed from this species. These varieties differ slightly from one another in size, color, berry shape, sugar content, ripening time, and disease resistance. Only about a dozen of Vitis vinifera variety are commonly used for wine making around the world. The main varieties include: Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscat.

Steps in Winemaking
All wines are similarly produced regardless of the wine type. The main steps in wine making are:
harvesting crushing

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juice

fermentation separation

clarification

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aging

bottling

NOTE: When using a wine kit, steps one through four have already been prepared for you.

To aid in fermentation, wine yeast is added to convert the sugars to alcohol. Fermentation takes place in large vats, from which air is excluded to prevent oxidation and discourage the growth of bacteria.

At the vineyard the grapes are harvested, crushed and the stems are removed. Adding sulfur dioxide or rapidly heating the juice which is also called must, suppresses the growth of wild yeast, mold and other naturally occurring organisms. Depending on the type of wine, the inner pulp may be separated from the skins to avoid getting skin pigmentation into the juice. In red-wine production, the skins, seeds, and juice are fermented together. In white wine production, skins and seeds are removed to achieve a lighter color and flavor.

The fermentation process can take from ten to thirty days. During this process, controlling the wines temperature is necessary to promote yeast growth and to extract the flavors and colors from the skins. The best temperature for yeast growth is about 70o-80o for red wines and lower temperatures are required for white wines, about 55o-65o F. A severe change in temperature can kill the yeast and ruin the wine. Following fermentation, the wine is separated from the sediment, this is called clarification or racking. In racking the wine, it is moved from one container to another to remove the suspended particles through filtering. Some wines deposit their sediment quickly, but other wines remain cloudy for longer periods. When home brewing, racking or clarification is performed when there are fresh deposits on the bottom of the vessel. This can take place at thirty to sixty day intervals. When the wine is sediment free, it is ready for bottling.

Wine is usually aged in wooden barrels made of oak or redwood. The process allows oxygen to enter and water and alcohol to escape as acidity decreases. Additional clarification takes place in the barrel, where the wine flavor and aroma is enhanced. The barrel wood itself also contributes flavor of your wine. The wood-aging process may last many months or several years, depending on the variety. Before bottling, wine may require blending, filtration, and the addition of an antiseptic agent to prevent microbe development. Some wines are aged in bottles before being sold. Red wine flavors are enhanced with anywhere from two to twenty years of aging, depending on the variety.

Other wine varieties

Wine is also made from other fruits, vegetables or grains. For example, fermented apple cider is considered a wine. Perry is produced from pears. There are also cherry and plum wines as well as wines made from various berries. Fruit wines contain about 12 percent alcohol.

1 | introduction to wine | histor y

mid east origins

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"Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used".
- Shakespeare
These amphorae, reconstructed and replaced where they fell, probably held olive oil, wine, or fish sauce.
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Wine is a natural phase of grape spoilage and was discovered by accident. The earliest scientific evidence of grapes were 60million-year-old fossilized vines. Evidence found in archaeological sites suggested that wine production occurred in Georgia and Iran, between 6000 to 5000 BC. Egyptian records dating from 2500 BC refer to using grapes for wine making. Frequent references to wine in the Old Testament indacate the first wines originated in the Middle East. Egyptians developed the first arbors and pruning methods. Archeological excavations have uncovered many sites with buried jars, which indicated that inhabitants appeared to have been aware of the effects of temperature on stored wine.

greco roman origins

Wine was also used by early Minoan, Greek, and Etruscan civilizations. Wine was introduced to Europe by the Greeks around 1600 B.C. Greek merchants and doctors appear to have been the first to distribute wine. The Greeks were first vintners to add herbs and spices to wine to mask spoilage. About 1000 BC, the start of viticulture in Western Europe was mainly due to the Romans influence. They began classifying grape varieties and colors, observing and charting ripening characteristics, identifying diseases, and recognizing soil-type preferences. Also, Romans became skilled pruners and began using irrigation and fertilization to increase grape yields. A Roman invention, the wooden barrel, was a great advancement for wine storage and aging. Wine had previously been fermented in skins or jars. And as glassblowing became more common during this era, Romans may also have been the first to use glass bottles for storage. In medieval Europe, the Christian Church was a staunch economic supporter of wine which was necessary for the celebration of the Catholic Mass that helped maintain the industry after the fall of the Roman Empire. In places such as Germany, beer was banned and considered pagan while wine consumption was viewed as civilized and a sign of religious conversion.

The Romans carried wine making into much of Western Europe, especially the Moselle valley in France, the Rhine valley in Germany and the Danube River valley of Austria. Grape cultivation was transported from the Old World to Mexico, South America, South Africa, Australia, and California, following the voyages of explorers. Today wine is produced on all continents.

economics and politics

By the first century AD, wine was being exported from Italy to Spain, Germany, England and France. Shortly thereafter, these regions began developing their own vineyards until the Roman Emperor forbid the import of French wines to eliminate the competition with local wines. Over the next few centuries, France became the dominant world producer of wines. Monastic wineries were responsible for establishing vineyards in Burgundy, Champagne, and the Rhine Valley. Sacramental usage preserved wine industry methods and traditions through the dark ages. Wine was brought to Mexico, Argentina and South Africa in the 1500s and 1600s due to exploration, conquests and new settlements. During this period, there were many attempts to plant European vines along the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts of North America and in the Mississippi River basin valley. Unfortunately none of the Mississippi valley plantings were successful. Each newly planted vineyard died off within two or three seasons due to phylloxera. Phylloxera, a fungus which invaded the roots and leaves of the plantings. Phylloxera was indigenous to the Mississippi River Valley but was unknown outside North America at that time. Later this fungus migrated to Europe causing widespread crop failure.

In places such as Germany, beer was banned and considered pagan while wine consumption was viewed as civilized and a sign of religious conversion.

1 | introduction to wine | histor y

California
As was the case in Europe, California vineyards survived under the backing of the Catholic Church. In 1769, Franciscan missionary Father Juniper Serra planted the first California vineyard at the Mission in San Diego. During his lifetime, Father Serra established eight more missions and vineyards. He has been called the "Father of California Wine". The variety of grapes he planted, probably descended from Mexican plantings that became known as the Mission grape which dominated California wine production until about 1880. The first documented imported European vines were planted in Los Angeles in 1833 by Jean-Louis Vignes. In the 1850s and '60s, Agoston Harazsthy, the Founder of the California Wine Industry, made many trips to the finest vineyards in Europe to gather cuttings to transplant in California. His venture was primarily at his own expense, but some funding came from California State grants. He founded Buena Vista Winery and promoted the spread of vineyards over much of Northern California. He innovated the use of caves for cellars and promoted hillside planting, fostered the idea of nonirrigated vineyards and suggested redwood for casks when oak supplies were low.

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Vinification is the process of wine production, from the selection of grapes to the bottling of finished wine.
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In 1879 Captain Gustave Niebaum established Inglenook Winery in Rutherford, California in Napa County. It was the first Bordeaux style vineyard in the United States. Captain Niebaum's wines became known throughout the world. In 1889, his Inglenook wines won several gold medals at the World's Fair in Paris. The wine industry in the United States was flourishing during the period when the Europeans were contending with phylloxera. By 1900, United States had a fully developed commercial wine producing industry. Many California wines received medals in European competitions. This resulted in barrels of California wines were being regularly exported to Australia, Canada, Central America, England, Germany, Mexico and the Orient.

Andr Tchelistcheff is credited with creating the modern era of winemaking in California. He introduced several new techniques, such as aging wine in small French Oak barrels, cold fermentation, and vineyard frost prevention.

Andres brother Timothy Tchelistcheff, a former science teacher was a member of Congregation of Christian Brothers. He was also active in the creation of the modern wine industry. In 1935, he became the wine chemist for the order's expanding wine operations at Mont La Salle located west of Napa. The Christian Brothers grew grapes and produced sacramental wine in Benicia, California during Prohibition.

In 1965, Robert Mondavi broke away from his family's Charles Krug estate and founded his own winery in Oakville, California. This was the first new large-scale winery to be established in the valley since before prohibition. The number of wineries in the valley continued to grow following The Mondavi estate, as did the region's reputation. California wine makers were producing quality wines but had difficulty with marketing. Frank Schoonmaker, a prominent journalist and wine writer of the 1950s introduced labeling wines using varietal names such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, rather than names borrowed from European regions such as Burgundy, Chablis,and Rhine. Robert Mondavi was one of the first winemakers to label his wines using varietal names. By the early 1970s, the quality of California vintners' wines were outstanding. On May 24, 1976, a blind tasting was held in Paris with an exclusive panel of French wine experts. After comparing six California Chardonnays with four French Chardonnays, three of the top four were California wines. All nine judges ranked Chateau Montelena as the highest; Chalone Vineyard came in third and Spring Mountain Vineyard fourth. When reds were evaluated, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars were ranked number one. This competition focused on wines from the Napa Valley. The red wines evaluated in 1976 were retasted in two separate blind tasting (the French Culinary Institute Wine Tasting of 1986 and the Wine Spectator Wine Tasting of 1986). In all retasting, a California red came in first, while the French reds lost their rankings. In Oz Clarke's, New Encyclopedia of Wine, he stated that California "was the catalyst and then the locomotive for change that finally pried open the ancient European wineland's rigid grip on the hierarchy of quality wine and led the way in proving that there are hundreds if not thousands of places around the world where good to great wine can be made." He observed that "until the exploits of California's modern pioneers of the 1960's and '70's, no-one had ever before challenged the right of Europe's, and in particular, France's vineyards, to be regarded as the only source of great wine in the world." Backed by continuing research, California vintners continue to innovate to further enhance the quality of their products.

Following the repeal of Prohibition, they branched out into the commercial production of wine and brandy and established Christian Brothers as one of the leading brands in the state's budding wine industry.

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1 | introduction to wine | major producers

The top producing nations include France, Italy, Spain, and the United States. California produces about 90% of the wine in the United States.

France
France is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in Europe. Regions in the south were licensed by the Roman Empire to produce wines. Saint Martin of Tours promoted both spreading Christianity and planting vineyards. During the Middle Ages, monks maintained vineyards and held the wine making secrets. Monasteries had the resources to produce a steady supply of wine both for celebrating mass and generating income. During this time, the best vineyards were owned by the monasteries and their wines were superior. Over time, the nobility acquired extensive vineyards. However, the French Revolution led to the confiscation of many of the vineyards owned by the Church and private owners. Until about 1850 the majority of wine in France was consumed locally. People in Paris drank wine from the local vineyards, for example, people in Bordeaux drank Bordeaux, those in Burgundy drank Burgundy, and so on. The advancement of the transportation systems with the spread of railroads and the improvement of roads, reduced shipping costs and dramatically increased commercialization. France now produces the most wine by value in the world. Bordeaux wine, Bourgogne wine and Champagne are Frances most important agricultural products.

Italy
Wine is a the most popular beverage in Italy. Italy is the second largest wine producer in the world. Many Italians drink wine with every meal and in-between. Grapes are grown in almost every part of Italy, with more than one million vineyards under cultivation. Each region is proud of its carefully tended, neatly pruned vines. In some areas, the vines are trained along low supports. In others they climb as slender saplings. The people of each region are intensely proud of the wine they produce from their grapes. Most winemaking in Italy is done in modern wineries, but villagers make wine for their own use. Villagers sometimes tread on the grapes with their bare feet to squeezed out the juice.
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They believe this ancient method still makes the best wine. The most familiar Italian wine is the Tuscan Chianti, a red moderately dry table wine. Italy's better products are the reds, Barolo and Valpolicella, and the dry white Soave. Italian wines tend to be acidic, dry and light-to-medium bodied, subdued in flavor and aroma. Because of these characteristics, Italian wines are believed to be a better accompaniment with food than wines from other countries.

Spain
Spain is the third largest producer of wine in the world. Historically, Spain is known for the production of Sherry a fortified wine, which is produced in the region surrounding Jerez de,la Frontera. Other wine regions well known outside of Spain include: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Priorato, Cava and Peneds. The most popular Spanish region is Rioja, a fertile area in the upper Ebro Valley. Spanish law permits the use of four red grape varieties in Rioja. The primary grape is Tempranillo, followed by Garnache , Graciano and Mazuelo.The wine types are categorized by age, for instance Crianza wines are aged for two years, Reservas are aged three years, and Gran Reservas are aged minimum of five years.

The United States

The United States is sixth in wine production with nine tenths of North American wines coming from California. Wines of good quality are also produced in New York, Ohio, the Pacific Northwest, and other areas. California's best wines are Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinor Noir and Zinfandel. The California wine industry has grown rapidly since the 1970s, partly through the efforts of the viticultural research program established at the Davis branch of the University of California. This program has enabled vast improvements in wine making technology, from vine growth through fermentation and bottling. The wine regions of California include 12 counties, the most famous of which is Napa. These regions produce more wine varieties than any other region.

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1 | introduction to wine | wine classifications

Wine experts classify wine into five major categories, with the distinction based on major differences in vinification. The primary wine categories are table wines, fortified wines, sparkling wines, desert wines and cooking wines. This classification depends on the technique of production, called vivification.

Table Wines
Table wines come in three basic colors: white, red, or rose. They range in taste from sweet to very dry, without being bitter. Alcohol content varies from 7 to 15 percent. Table wines account for the bulk of the wine production throughout the world.It is both plentiful and economical.

Fortified wines
Wines receiving an extra dosage of alcohol during production, usually with a grape brandy, are called fortified wines. The alcohol content of fortified wines is higher than that of table wines, ranging from 14 to 23 percent. The colors of fortified wines range from white, amber, bright red, or dark red. Sherry is the best known and most popular of the fortified wines. Sherry has unique qualities that come from the soil, grapes and a different vivification process. The flavor of sherry ranges from very sweet to very dry, with several intermediate varieties. Other fortified wines include Madeira, Marsala, Malaga, Port, and certain aromatic wines. Vermouth is an aromatic wine to which herbs have been added. An aperitif is consumed before meals and is considered an aromatic. An aromatic is made by adding quinine and other ingredients to heavy, sweet wines. They are marketed under brand names, such as Dubonne and Campari. After-dinner drinks are called digestif.

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Sparkling wines
Sparkling wines are usually white, but may be red or rose, and have an alcohol content similar to table wines. An excess of carbon dioxide causes the effervescence or bubbly quality of sparkling wines. Carbon dioxide is produced in the fermentation of all wines, but sparkling wines go through a double fermentation, the second of which takes place in the bottle. Sugar and yeast are added to the bottle before the second fermentation, to produce carbon dioxide, to build up the pressure inside the bottle. Champagne's are blends of wine from different grapes. Each producer has his own recipe to yield a desired blend. The best-known sparkling wine is champagne, named for the region of France where it was first made in the 18th century by a Benedictine monk named Dom Pierre Perignon. Asti Spumante is an Italian sparkling wine.

Desert Wines
Desert wines range from slightly to incredibly sweet. Late harvest wines such as Sptlese from Germany are made from over ripe grapes. Recioto and Vin Santo from Italy, are made from grapes that have been partially raisined after harvesting. Botrytized wines are made from grapes infected by the mold Botrytis cinerea or noble rot. These include Sauternes from Bordeaux, Numerous wines from Loire such as Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume, Tokaji Asz from Hungary, and Beerenauslese from Germany and Austria. Eiswein is made from grapes that are harvested while frozen.

Cooking Wines
Cooking wines typically contain a significant quantity of salt and are of such poor quality that it is unpalatable by itself and intended only for cooking. However, most cooking authorities advise against using any wine one would find unacceptable to drink. Contrarily, a recent study has found that inexpensive wines work as well as expensive wine in cooking.

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a recent study has found that inexpensive wines work as well as expensive wine in cooking.
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1 | introduction to wine | wine grape varieties

Wine grape varieties
Wine is usually made from one or more varieties of the European species, Vitis vinifera. Grape varieties of Vitis vinifera have a great range of composition; the skin pigment colors vary from greenish yellow to russet, pink, red, reddish violet, or blue-black. The color of red wine comes from the skin, not the juice. The juice is normally colorless, though some varieties have a pink to red color. Juice flavors vary from bland to strong.

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Viticulture
(from the Latin word for vine)

refers to the cultivation of grapes, often for use in the production of wine.

Most of the world's vineyards are planted with European Vinifera vines that have been grafted onto North American species rootstock. This is a common practice developed because North American grape species are resistant to phylloxera. Grafting is done in every wine-producing country of the World except for Chile and Argentina, which have yet to be exposed to phylloxera. The quality of the vineyards is determined by a complex interaction of numerous ecological factors; namely, grape variety, elevation, and topography, soil type and chemistry, and the climate and seasonal conditions. The broad range of factors lead to great variety of quality and flavor in wine products. Quality and flavored are enhanced by the fermentation, finishing, and aging processes. Many small producers use growing and production methods that preserve or accentuate both the aroma and taste of the wine. Grape vines can be grown in a wide variety of soil types and climactic conditions. They are a hardy plant and are usually grown from cuttings. To successfully grow a vine involves the construction of a trellis system, irrigation, soil amending, planting, training to the trellis, removal of buds and leaves from the trunk, weed control, pruning, pest and disease control, and harvesting . Vines can be grown on their own roots or grafted to another variety's root system (rootstock). Rootstock are chosen for their ability to be tolerant or resistant to moisture, drought, disease, pests or any variety of potential problems.

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Shortly after the spring budburst, groups of flowers are produced and the fruit clusters develop from these groups. The grape berry is made up of pulp, seeds and skin that has a thin, waxy layer containing millions of native yeast cells. As the berries grow they are hard and contain mainly grape acids (malic and tartaric acids). As the grapes ripen they start to soften and change color and the sugar, flavor and water contents increase and acids decline. This is called vraison. At this stage the major components of the grape berry are:
Water (70-85%) Carbohydrates - Glucose and fructose Alcohols - There may be trace amounts in damaged or botrytisaffected fruits Acids - Tartaric and malic acids are the major acids present. Trace amounts of citric, lactic, succinic and acetic acid are present.

Harvest is determined by the winemaker taking into consideration the variety of wine to be made. The acid content is not a major concern as this can be added to the wine, usually in the form of tartaric acid. The main determinant is color, flavor and sugar level. Neutral juice of low color and sugar will not produce an interesting wine. Grapes are harvested either by hand or mechanically.

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Vraison is a French term, but has been adopted into the English literature on viticulture. The official definition of Vraison is "change of color of the grape berries." Vraison signifies the change from berry growth to berry ripening in grapevines.

Winter brings dormancy to the vines and at this stage they can be pruned to increase vine productivity. The fruitfulness of the vine is determined in the previous growing season and the number of potential bunches is related to the number of buds left after pruning.

1 | introduction to wine | climate

The quality of wine is directly related to soil type, topography, and climate as well as the variety of grapes. Changes in weather patterns from year to year also influence the quality of a vintage. In addition, each community of wine makers may have secret techniques that makes their wine different from all the others. The experienced winemaker spends most of his/her time in the vineyard. The care of the grapes can greatly influence the final product. Careful attention is given both to climate and soil conditions before planting vines. Particular varieties excel only in certain climates and under specific soil conditions.

Climate
Different types of grapes flourish in different regions and each regions climate and soil conditions greatly affect the quality of the grapes. At the University of California Davis, viticulture researchers divided California into 5 regions according to the number of degree days. Degree days are a way of measuring the cumulative amount of heat absorbed by the plants. The number of degree days required by a vineyard varies with the type of variety grown. The primary purpose of this system is to give grape growers a accurate estimate of when they can begin to harvest the grapes. Below is a table that describes the characteristics of wine depending on warm or cool climates.

WARM CLIMATES
wine characteristics

COOL CLIMATES

high sugar low acidity low color low flavor high yields

low sugar high acidity high color high flavor low yield

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Soil
The soil type is extremely important as it supports the vine and acts as a reservoir for holding nutrients and water. The water holding capacity of the soil strongly affects the final flavor of the wine.

Propagation
Vines are typically purchased from nurseries where they have already been grafted to prevent phylloxera infestation. New vines typically do not produce significant yields of fruit until the 3rd or 4th year. The vines typically have a useful life of approximately 20 years.

Har vest
The vine cycle depends largely upon the regional climate. The vine cycle in California begins around April 1st when new shoots elongate. During April and May, the vine flowers appear. Around May 15th, tiny berries begin to grow but remain green until mid July. As vraison begins, the berries begin to develop color and to soften. The fruit is usually harvested around the middle of September. However, the harvest date is largely dependent upon the variety, the location, and the regional climate. Before the wine grapes are harvested, the amount of sugar in the grape must be measured. There are two common methods for measuring the sugar content. The refractometer measures the refraction of light through the juice whereas the a hydrometer measures the density of the juice. Both measures provide indirect estimates of sugar content. Once the sugar content is measured, the wine maker can estimate the alcohol concentration of the finished product. These methods have been developed to aid in determining the harvest schedule to obtain the best possible grape.

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1 | introduction to wine | agricultural techniques

biodynamic farming
Biodynamics is an organic farming system based on the teachings of Rudolf Steiner in 1924. Steiner believed that the introduction of chemical farming was a major problem and was convinced that the quality of food was degraded and he believed the sources of the problem were both artificial fertilizers and pesticides. However, he did not believe this was only because of the chemical or biological properties, but also due to spiritual shortcomings in the chemical approach to farming. Steiner considered the world and everything in it as simultaneously spiritual and material in nature. The term biodynamic was coined by Steiner's followers. A central aspect of biodynamics is that the farm as a whole an organism, and therefore should be a closed self-nourishing system. The astrological calender is used to determine times of planting and harvesting. In field preparations, inorganic or mineral fertilizers are not allowed. For example, to prepare the fields for stimulating humus formation includes filling the horn of a cow with a cow manure mixture and burying in the autumn. The horn is left to decompose during the winter and recovered the following autumn. The manure mixture is then removed from the horns and spread onto the fields as fertilizer.

Watusi Cattle, not chemicals fertilize California vineyard. As wineries change course drinkers are paying attention. -jim wilson, new york times

difference between organic and biodynamic

Any biodynamic produce is also organic and biodynamic farm operates the same as an organic farm using no pesticides, or herbicide. However, there are various agricultural methods which are unique to biodynamic farming such as field preparations, compost preparations, uses an astrological calender to determine planting and harvesting times, and biodynamic produce is certified by Demeter and can be certified by an organic as well.

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1 | introduction to wine | review

In section one you learned about beginning wine making as it will expanded your knowledge of winemaking, history, major producers, wine classifications, wine grape varieties, climate and agricultural techniques. This information may also enable you to be a more effective wine consumer. Shown below are a eight questions for you to answer, to reinforce the concepts and facts you have learned.

Self review questions.

1. Major wine producing countries are? __________________, __________________, __________________, __________________, 2. What is the major wine producing state in the united states? ___________________, 3. Five types are wine are?___________________, _________________, ___________________, __________________, __________________. 4. This main grape variety is_________________. 5. The optimum harvest schedule is based on_______________. 6. Beer drinking germans were considered________________. 7. What are two types of farming systems? ___________,____________ 8. Wine does not cause intoxication? True or False

Answers: 1) France, Italy, Spain, United States. 2) California 3) Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat 4) Vitis vinifera 5) Region and climate 6) Pagan 7) Biodynamic and Organic 8) False, no really... true!
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2 | before you begin | important information

Now that you have covered section one, section two should be more interesting for you. In this section you will learn the essentials of wine making beginning with sanitizing your equipment, the use of each piece of equipment will be highlighted for you. If you think you can forget this step, you will waste a lot of time and money and end up with six gallons of vinegar. One six gallon batch of wine yields 30 bottles. Again, the wine can take as little as 30 days to produce, but it is recommend to wait a minimum of three to six months to achieve a better tasting wine.

important information
Please read all instructions before starting.
Clean all of your equipment with an unscented winemaking detergent and rinse thoroughly with hot water to remove all residues. Sanitize your equipment by rinsing it with a solution of metabisulphite. Dissolve 3 tablespoons of metabisulphite powder in one gallon of cool water. Dip or spray your equipment with this solution and rinse thoroughly. Every piece of equipment must be treated with sulphide. Leftover solution can be stored in a tightly sealed container for several months. Please use good quality drinking water with this kit. If youre not sure of your water quality, consider using bottled water. Deposits and calcium content in household water can negatively affect your wine. The starting temperature of your wine is critical. Before adding the yeast, double check that the juice temperature is between 65-75F.If the yeast is added to a kit that is too cold, it will not ferment or clear on schedule. When transferring your wine to the carboy it is recommend to get a partner. When bottling your wine have at least two partners. Also, the final bottling stage can get messy so have plenty of rags at hand for clean up.
NOTE: Please remember to remove the code number sticker from the wine box top and

Equipment List: a. b. c. d. e f. g. h. h. i. j. k l. m. n. o. 7.5 gallon plastic fermented 6 gallon glass carboy airlock stoppers for fermented hydrometer wine thief auto siphon racking tube 5 feet of siphon tubing bottle filler digital thermometer 30 corks 30 bottles easy clean No-Rinse Cleanser long stirring spoon measuring cup and spoons

attach it to your wine log on page 45. Also, fill out the wine log when starting your batch of wine. Keeping track of this information will help identify any problems you may have in making your wine.

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2 | before you begin | understanding your equipment

a. 7.5 gallon plastic fermentor
The primary fermentation vessel holds seven and a half gallons (when only 6 gallons of wine are produced). During fermentation the wine needs room to foam. Any food grade container with a lid will work. Attach a bung and an airlock at the beginning of the fermentation, (see c. and d. below). NOTE: The first fermentation stage is about 5-7 days. c

b. 6 gallon glass carboy

The glass carboy is used for the secondary fermentation process. An advantage of using glass is you can view the fermentation process. The carboy must be fitted with a bung and an airlock, (see c. and d. below). NOTE: The second fermentation stage is about 10 days.

c. airlock
An airlock is a device which holds a sulphide solution. This is where fermentation gasses pass out of the carboy. The airlock is fitted into a rubber bung which sits in the neck of the carboy. Fill the airlock approximately half way with water.

d. carboy bung
c The bung is the plug that is inserted into the carboy and works with the airlock.

e. hydrometer
A hydrometer measures alcohol content which allows you to keep track of the fermentation progress. Alcohol content is determined by taking by taking readings before and after fermentation and comparing them. Also, the hydrometer is used to verify when your batch is ready to bottle. NOTE: Additional hydrometer instructions on page 28. e

23

f.

wine thief
The wine thief allows you to take a hydrometer reading from the fermentor with no siphoning or pouring. Submerge the tube of the wine thief into the wine, fill and lift it out. A one-way valve will automatically lock your sample in the tube. Next, float the hydrometer inside the tube for a reading. When you are finished just depress the wine thief relief valve against the side of the fermentor to return the sample. f

g. auto siphon & hose

The auto siphon easily starts the transfer of wine into another vessel. Attach the racking tube to the auto siphon, then insert one end into the carboy and pump the handle a couple of strokes. The siphon begins and wine flows to the other vessel. This plunger action forces the liquid upward through the inner tube and into your attached siphon hose. Requires 3/8 inch by five foot vinyl siphon hose. g

h. bottle filler
Filling your bottles is easier with the bottle filler. The plastic bottle filler is a clear shaft with an automatic foot-valve on the bottom end for quick and easy shut-off between bottles. Attach the 3/8 inch siphon tubing to the top, depress the spring-loaded foot-valve against the bottom of the bottle and start filling. When your bottle is full the bottle filler stops automatically with just enough room for cork space.

i.

digital thermometer
Temperature control is critical to the wine making process. During the fermentation process you need to maintain the temperature between 65-75F. Please keep accurate records in your wine log. j

j.

corker
The plastic corker is an inexpensive way to cork your bottles. Place cork into the plastic plunger corker, fit over the top of wine bottle and finally push the cork in.
24

2 | before you begin | using your hydrometer

The hydrometer is used to take measurements of specific gravity indicating the potential sugar content in wine. This is important to winemakers because the readings will indicate when the fermentation has complete. A hydrometer should be used in conjunction with a thermometer, since the specific gravity of the liquid depends upon temperature. Both the wine thief and test cylinder (diagram 1 & 2) can be used to take these measurements.

how a hydrometer works

An easy way to explain how a hydrometer works is with illustrations. See diagram 1, which represents a test cylinder full of wine before the yeast is added. At this point the hydrometer is floating relatively high because the liquid is heavy with sugar causing the hydrometer to be elevated. As the yeast turns the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, the hydrometer descends because wine becomes lighter (alcohol weighs less per unit volume than water). Diagram 2, represents a wine that has fermented and is lighter than water.

how to use the hydrometer

It's easy to use the hydrometer; just follow these simple steps:
diagram 1 diagram 2

1. Sanitize the hydrometer, wine thief, and test cylinder using a

sulphite solution.
2. Draw a sample of wine using the wine thief - avoid testing samples

that contain solid particles as this will distort the results.

3. Fill the wine thief or test cylinder with enough liquid to float the

hydrometer - about 80% full.

4. Gently lower the hydrometer into the test cylinder or wine thief and

spin the hydrometer as you release it so no air bubbles stick to the bottom of the hydrometer which can distort readings.
5. Be sure the hydrometer doesnt touch the sides of the test cylinder

but floats freely. Read across the bottom of the meniscus. See diagram 3.
The specific gravity range for white wines, regardless of the fruit used, is between 1.070 and 1.085. The specific gravity range for red wines are between 1.080 and 1.095. NOTE: Always be sure to take good records of your readings and record them

diagram 3

in your wine log

25

2 | before you begin | review

Now that you have covered section two, you have learned the essentials of wine making beginning with sanitizing your equipment. You have become familiar with the equipment you will use for making your wine. Now you know not to make a batch of vinegar. Shown below are a seven questions for you to answer, to reinforce the concepts and facts you have learned.

Self review questions.

1. What agent is used for sanitation? ________________________________ 2. Why is sanitation so important for your winemaking? _______________________________________________________________ 3. How often do you sanitize your equipment? _______________________________________________________________ 4. Its alright to use any type of water? _______________________________________________________________ 5. A hydrometer measures ________________________________? 6. A hydrometer floats low when the juice has a high sugar content? True or False 7. A digital thermometer gives analog reading? True or False.

Answers: 1) metabisulphite 2) Bacteria can get into the wine and spoil and entire batch. 3) Every time you use it. 4) Spring water is preferred, however boiled tap water with low mineral content can be used as well. 5) The hydrometer measures potential alcohol content. 6) False 7) False
26

3 | making your wine | wine kit ingredients

Now that you have covered section two, you can make some wine. In this section you will learn about the contents of your wine kit, the various fermentation stages and how to process the juice in each phase. Finally you will bottle your wine. Your wine kit includes a juice bag, packet of yeast, bentonite, metabisulphite, sorbate and a fining agent. juice bag
The juice bag contains pure varietal grape juice and grape concentrate. All acids, pH, sugars, and tannin levels are perfectly balanced, therefore no additional testing is required, except hydrometer readings.

yeast

bentonite

Yeast is a fungus. There are thousands of different types of yeasts. The type most useful to wine making is the strain of saccharomyces cervisiae. Some recommended high quality wine yeasts include both Lalvin and Red Star. Do not use bread yeast since it is designed to provide CO2 for raising bread. Good wine yeasts are sulphur tolerant.

metabisulphite sorbate

Bentonite is a refined clay sold as a powder and course granules. It is added directly to the juice in the first fermentation stage. Bentonite is also valuable because it provides a nucleus in wine in which CO2 gas can form to aid in fermentation.

This sulphite is essential in winemaking for sterilizing equipment and as a wine preservative.

fining agent

Sorbate is a chemical that stabilizes wine by inhibiting the activity or growth of yeast. Be careful when measuring and adding sorbate to your wine. Add 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of wine. If inefficient sorbate is added to the wine it may begin to re-ferment, and if too much sorbate is added you will taste this chemical. Bacteria can react with sorbate if to much is added, producing a strong odor of geranium which will ruin your wine.

Finings work either by sticking to particles making them heavy enough to sink or causing particles to stick to each other by making them settle to the bottom of the carboy.
28

3 | making your wine | primar y fermentation

primar y fermentation (5-7 days)
Ensure that your primary fermentor is capable of holding at least 8 gallons. Pre-mark the primary fermentor at 6 gallons. Draw a line with a permanent marker on the fermentor at the water level. This will be your fill level. Be sure to perform this step or the wine may become too thin. Clean and sanitize the primary fermentor and lid, spoon, thermometer, hydrometer and test cylinder or wine thief. Rinsing is not necessary if you are using Easy Clean.
1. Add one-half gallon of hot water to the bottom of the sani-

tized primary fermentor. Stir the water vigorously then slowly sprinkle the contents of bentonite package(s) onto the surface. Stir for 30 seconds for even dispersal and to break up any clumps.
2. Grasp the neck of the large juice bag firmly, carefully

remove the cap, and pour the contents into the primary fermentor.Add a half gallon of warm water to the bag to rinse out any remaining juice, then add it to the fermentor.
3. Top off the fermentor to the 6 gallon mark with cool water.

Next, stir vigorously for 30 seconds. NOTE:

Making the kit to a full 6 gallons is crucial to the functioning of the fining agents and the stability of the finished wine. If any other volume is measured the wine will not turn out correctly, and any problems you may experience may not be solvable.

4. Draw a sample of the juice. Use your hydrometer and

test cylinder to check the specific gravity. It should read between 1.0701.085, depending on the wine type.
5. If your wine kit contains oak or elderflowers, sprinkle them

into the primary fermentor now. If your kit has more than one package of oak, add them all. Stir them into the liquid.
6. Ensure that the temperature of the juice is maintained

between 65-75F. Open the package of yeast and sprinkle it onto the surface of the juice. Do not stir.
7. Cover the primary fermentor and place in an area with a

temperature of 65-75F. Fermentation should start within 24-48 hours.

Dont forget to keep a wine making log.

29

3 | making your wine | secondar y fermentation

secondar y fermentation (7-10 days)
Clean and Sanitize siphon rod and hose, hydrometer and test cylinder, wine thief, carboy, bung and airlocks. Rinse well. After 5-7 days draw a sample of the juice and use your hydrometer and to check the specific gravity. It should be 1.010 or less. You must rack or transfer your wine into a 6 gallon carboy at this time. If your gravity is not at or below this level, wait (testing the gravity each day) until it is.
NOTE: The lower your fermentation temperature, the longer this stage will take.

1. You need a partner for this step. Put the primary fermentor

on a sturdy table at least three feet high.

2. Carefully siphon wine into a clean, sanitized 6 gallon car-

boy. Leave most of the sediment behind. This will leave a space at the not top up at this stage. This space is required for stirring during stabilizing.
3. Attach the airlock and bung to carboy. Fill the airlock

halfway with water.

4. Leave the carboy in fermentation area for another 10 days.

Dont forget to keep a wine making log. See page 45.

30

3 | making your wine | stabilizing & clearing

stabilizing & clearing (14 days) Clean and sanitize hydrometer, the test cylinder, wine thief and spoon. After 10 days, check the specific gravity of the wine. It should be 0.996 or less. Verify a stable gravity by checking again the next day. If the gravity has changed, repeat this step everyday until the reading is stable. Remember to verify this reading or your wine may not clear!
1. Do n o t rack the wine before stabilizing and clearing. The sedi-

ment must be stirred back into suspension. Racking the wine off the sediment prior to fining will permanently prevent clearing. Again, be sure to stir all of the sediment off the bottom.
2. Stirring vigorously during this stage is required. Use the opposite

end of the spoon for stirring. Without vigorous stirring the CO2 gas in the wine will prevent clearing. At each stirring, whip the wine until it stops foaming.
3. Dissolve contents of metabisulphite and sorbate packets in one

half cup of cool water. Add to the carboy and stir very vigorously for two minutes to disperse the stabilizers and expel the CO2. Again, be sure to stir the yeast sediment from the bottom of the carboy.

Dont forget to keep a wine making log.

31

3 | making your wine | clarifier

add clarifier
I. Remove two cups of wine from the carboy, to ensure space for the

clarifier. Reserve this juice for topping off the carboy later.
2. Shake the clarifier. Add the clarifier to the carboy using a measur-

ing cup with a spout. Stir vigorously for another two minutes to drive off CO2 gas. Again, your wine may not clear if the stirring is not vigorous.
3. Top off carboy two inches from the bottom of the bung. Use the

reserve wine or cool water to fill the airlock halfway. Wait 14 days or more to finish clarifying.
4. After the 14 days check your wine for clarity by drawing a small

sample into a wineglass and examining it in good light. If it is not completely clear, allow another 7 days. Do not bottle cloudy wine since it will not clear in the bottle. At this stage you can leave your wine in the carboy for several months to age and develop better flavor.

After 14 days, you are ready to proceed to bottling.

Dont forget to keep a wine making log. See page 45.

32

3 | making your wine | bottling

bottling
Clean and Sanitize 30 wine bottles, siphon rod, hose and siphon filler. Rinse each bottle well. Use at least two partners for filling and bottling the wine. Be sure to have plenty of rags at hand, bottling can be very messy. NOTE: If you are concerned about disturbing the sediment on the bottom
of the carboy while bottling, clean and sanitize a primary fermentor or carboy, rack the wine into it, and bottle from there.

To age the wine more than six months extra metabisulphite must be added to prevent oxidation. Clean and sanitize a primary fermentor or carboy and rack the wine. Again, dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of potassium metabisulphite powder in 1/2 cup cool water and gently stir it into wine. This extra sulphide will not affect flavor. 1. Siphon your wine into clean, sanitized bottles. 2. Warm the corks in hot water before insertion into the bottles. This will make the insertion with the plastic hand corker much easier. Be sure to leave two finger-widths of space between the bottom of the cork and the wine level in each bottle. 3. Leave bottles upright for three days before laying them on their sides to age. This allows the corks to seal properly. Finally, store the bottles in a dark, cool, temperature-stable area.

Dont forget to keep a wine making log. See page 45.

Congratulations, you have finished making your batch of wine. Your wine will be ready to drink in a minimum of three months.

33

3 | making your wine | review

Now you are ready to make some wine. In this section you will learned about the contents of your wine kit, the various fermentation stages and how to process the juice in each phase. Finally you will bottle your wine.

Shown below are a five questions for you to answer, to reinforce the concepts and facts you have learned.

Self review questions. 1. Yeast is a __________________ agent? 2. How many days are required for primary fermentation? ______________ days 3. The specific gravity for red wine is? 4. Do not sanitize your equipment for secondary fermentation? True or False 5. Your wine is ready to bottle when the specific gravity is __________________ or less.

Answers: 1) rising 2) 5-7 days 3) 4) Spring water is preferred, however boiled tap water with low mineral content can be used as well. 5) It should be 0.996 or less.
34

4 | advanced wine making | making wine from fresh fruit

Making wine from fresh grapes will be easy, that is assuming you have already made wine from a kit and are familiar with the steps in the process.

You will have many varieties of grapes to choose from, depending on where you live. The classic grape choice is the Vitis vinifera variety and this wine-grape family includes such varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Vitis vinifera variety, thrive in California and the Pacific Northwest as well as from New York to the Great Lakes, and the Mid-Atlantic states. If you live in damp, colder climates you may not be able to find Vitis vinifera grapes grown locally. Hybrid's such as Vitis labrusca grapes, which are less susceptible to cold and disease, may be grow in your area. Or you can order grapes through your local winemaking shop or a produce wholesaler. Whatever variety of grapes you use the techniques, equipment and ingredients are the same.

required additional equipment

You will need a few additional pieces of winemaking equipment. You should be able to find this additional equipment at any home brewing or home winemaking supply shop. Large nylon straining bag Cheesecloth Acid titration kit One gallon glass jug

{ }
Thou shalt sanitize and rinse...the winemakers most important commandment... Thou shalt include your volunteers in tasting....
36

Creating your own wine from fresh grapes is gratifying. Early autumn is the best time of the year to make your batch of wine because grapes are at their peak ripeness.

4 | advanced wine making | fruit preparation and adjusting the juice

inspecting your fruit
Winemaking starts with inspecting your grapes. To assure that the grapes are ripe, squish them in your hands straining the juice in to a clean cup. Then measure the sugar density with your hydrometer. For a red wine the sugar density should be around 1.080 and 1.095 specific gravity and for a white wine the sugar density should be around 1.070 and 1.085 specific gravity. The grapes should taste sweet and ripe but slightly tart. The grapes also must be clean and free of insects. Discard any rotten or suspicious grapes. Also, remove the stems since they will make your wine taste bitter. Again, winemaking demands a sanitary environment. Wash all of your equipment thoroughly with hot water and a strong sulfite solution to rinse any equipment that comes in contact with your wine.

37

adjusting acid content

Adjusting the acid content of your juice is critical. You can measure the acid with a titration kit. The ideal acid level is 6 to 7 grams per liter for dry reds and 6.5 to 7.5 grams per liter for dry whites. If your acid level is not within the acceptable range, then adjust by adding tartaric acid. To increase the acid content add tartaric acid in one gram increments. If your acid content is too high then add 10 percent increments of water. You also need to monitor the sugar level with your hydrometer. To increase your sugar concentration, make a simple syrup by dissolving one cup sugar into one-third cup of water. Bring it to a boil in a saucepan and immediately remove from heat. Cool before adding. Add syrup in one tablespoon increments, until the desired specific gravity is reached. To decrease the sugar concentration, simply dilute your juice with water. The temperature of your juice can also be adjusted to provide the perfect environment for the growth of the yeast cells. For red wines add the yeast when the temperature reaches between 70 and 80 F, but for white wines add the yeast between 55 and 65 F.

38

4 | advanced wine making | dr y red table wine recipe

Now you're ready to begin making your first batch of wine. Below you'll find step-by-step recipes for a dry red and a dry white table wine. The recipes have similar steps and techniques, with one important difference. Red wines always are fermented with the skins and pulp; the solids are pressed and remain in the juice during the primary fermentation. White wines are always pressed before fermentation, so only the grape juice winds up in the fermenting pail.

Dr y Red Table Wine

Ingredients:
18 lbs. red grapes yield one gallon of wine one camden tablet (or 0.33g of potassium metabisulfite powder) Tartaric acid, if necessary Table sugar, if necessary one packet wine yeast

1. Harvest your grapes once they have reached 22 to 24 percent sugar content.

{ }
Red wines always are fermented with the skins and pulp; the solids are pressed after fermentation is complete.
39

2. Sanitize all equipment. Place the grape clusters into the nylon straining bag and deposit the bag into the bottom of the foodgrade pail. Using very clean hands or a sanitized tool such as a potato smasher, firmly crush the grapes. Crush the camden tablet or1 teaspoon of sulfite crystals and sprinkle over the juice in the nylon bag. Cover the pail with cheesecloth and wait one hour. 3. Measure the temperature of the juice. It should be between 70 and 80 F. Take a sample of the juice from the pail and measure the acid content with your titration kit. If your acid content is not between 6 to 7 grams per liter then adjust with tartaric acid. See page 42 for adjustment information. 4. Check the specific gravity of the juice. If the specific gravity isn't between 1.080 and 1.095 then add a little bit of simple syrup as discussed on page 42. 5. Dissolve the yeast in one pint of warm water (80 to 90 F) and let the yeast stand a few minutes until bubbly. When it's bubbling, pour yeast solution directly on the juice and mix. Cover the pail with cheesecloth, set in a warm (area 65 to 75 F) and check that fermentation has begun within 24 hours. Monitor fermentation progress and temperature regularly. Keep the skins under the juice at all times. Mix twice daily.

6. Once the juice has reached specific gravity of 0.998, lift the nylon straining bag out of the pail and squeeze remaining juice into the pail. 7. Cover the pail loosely and let the wine settle for 24 hours. Rack the wine into a sanitized carboy removing the sediment, topping off with grape juice or any dry red wine of a similar style. Fit with a sanitized bung and fermentation lock. After 10 days, rack the wine into another sanitized jug. Again, top off with dry red wine of a similar style. 8. After six months, siphon the clarified wine in a sanitized carboy. Then transfer the wine into clean, sanitized bottles. Cork with the hand-corker. 9. Store the bottles in cool, dark place and wait at least six months before drinking. Do not forget to invite your volunteers for your wine sampling.
Note: Red wine is fermented with the pulp and skins. This "cap" will rise to the top, so you need to "punch it down" frequently with a sanitized utensil.

Dont forget to keep a wine making log. See page 46.

40

4 | advanced wine making | dr y white table wine recipe

Dr y White Table Wine
Ingredients:
18 lbs. ripe white grapes yield 1 gallon of wine one camden tablet or 0.33g of potassium metabisulfite powder Tartaric acid, if necessary Table sugar, if necessary one packet wine yeast

1. Harvest grapes once they have reached 19 to 22 percent sugar. Pick through the grapes, removing any moldy clusters, insects, leaves or stems.

{ }
White wines are always pressed before fermentation, so only the grape juice winds up in the fermenting pail.
41

2. Place the grape clusters into a nylon straining bag and place the bag in bottom of the food-grade pail. Using very clean hands or a sanitized tool like a potato masher, firmly crush up the grapes inside the nylon bag. 3. Crush the camden tablet or measure one teaspoon of sulfite and sprinkle over the crushed fruit in the bag. Cover pail and bag with cheesecloth and let sit for one hour. 4. Lift the nylon straining bag out of the pail. Squeeze the bag to extract as much juice as possible. You should have about one gallon of juice in the pail. 5. Measure the temperature of the juice. It should be between 55 to 65 F. Adjust temperature as necessary. Take a sample of the juice in the pail and use your titration kit to measure the acid level. If it is not between 6.5 and 7.5 grams per liter, then adjust with tartaric acid. See page 42 for adjustment information. 6. Check the specific gravity of the juice. If it isn't between 1.070 and 1.085 specific gravity then add a little bit of simple syrup as discussed on page 42. 7. Dissolve a packet of yeast into one pint of warm water (80 to 90 F) and let stand until bubbly. Then pour the yeast solution directly onto the juice. Cover pail with cheesecloth, set in a cool area (55 to 65 F). In 24 hours, check to see that fermentation has begun. Monitor fermentation progression and temperature at least once daily.

8. Once the juice has reached at least 0.998 specific gravity, rack the wine off the sediment into a sanitized one-gallon jug, top off with dry white wine of a similar style. Fit with a sanitized bung and fermentation lock. Keep the container topped with white wine. Be sure the fermentation lock always has sulfite solution in it. After 10 days, rack the wine into another sanitized one-gallon jug. Top up with wine again. 9. After three months, siphon the clarified wine off the sediment and into clean, sanitized bottles and corks. 10.Store bottles in cool, dark place and wait at least three months before drinking. Quite often with certain varieties of wine, the longer you age the wine the better it will taste.

Dont forget to keep a wine making log. See page 46.

42

4 | advanced wine making | review

In section four you were given procedures for successfully making wine from fresh grapes. While both processes for making both red and white wines are similar, there are several important differences. For example, during fermentation, red wines include skins and seeds while white wines do not. You also found other important differences in measurements, and fermentation temperatures. Remember thou shall sanitize and rinse...one of the wine makers most important commandments.

Shown below are a five questions for you to answer, to reinforce the concepts and facts you have learned.
1. Do not sanitize your equipment unless you feel like it. True or False 2. Fermentation is optimal at 32 F. True or False 3. Wine grapes are harvested in august. True or False 4. Always use moldy grapes. True or False 5. Your wine will be better when it is younger. True or False 6. What is the difference between a drunk and an alcoholic?

43

Answers: 1) false 2) false 3) false 4) false 5) false 6) the alcoholic goes to meetings

| wine making | closing

Congratulations!!!
It was my goal that you would find these instructions clear concise and easy to use. By now, I assume you have successfully produced several batches of wine. Please be patient with the fermenting process, remember the longer you wait to drink your wine the better it will taste. Young wines taste bland and lack the complexity of wines that have aged longer. remember the older you get, the better you get! Sanitizing is critically important. Always keep all equipment clean and sanitized or you may end up with a batch of vinegar. Included on page 45-46 are wine logs for you to keep detailed records.

44

wine log wine kit

Batch 1:
Wine Type: Date Started:

primary fermentation:
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Note: This step takes about 5-7 days

secondary fermentation:
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Note: This step takes about 10 days

stabilizing and clearing: Note: This step takes about 14 days or more
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Batch 2:
Wine Type: Date Started:

primary fermentation:
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Note: This step takes about 5-7 days

secondary fermentation:
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Note: This step takes about 10 days

stabilizing and clearing: Note: This step takes about 14 days or more
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

45

wine log - fresh fruit

Batch 3:
Wine Type: Date Started:

primary fermentation:
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Note: This step takes about 5-7 days

secondary fermentation:
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Note: This step takes about 10 days

stabilizing and clearing: Note: This step takes about 14 days

Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Batch 4:
Wine Type: Date Started:

primary fermentation:
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Note: This step takes about 5-7 days

secondary fermentation:
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

Note: This step takes about 10 days

stabilizing and clearing: Note: This step takes about 14 days or more
Date: Hydrometer reading: Temperature:

46

References:

Books: The Joy of Home Winemaking, Terry Grey, Collins. First Steps in Winemaking, C.J. Berry.

Websites: www.winemakermag.com www.dictionary.com www.wikipedia.com www.ngs.com (national geographic society) www.istockphoto.com www.gettyone.com