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MIENG KUM Leaf-wrapped appertizer This is the sort of dish eaten at home, rather than at stalls or in restaurants.

In Thailand, various edible tree leaves are used, but lettuce leaves make an acceptable substitute. 1 lettuce or bunch of edible leaves Filling: 5 tablespoons grated coconut, roasted in moderate oven until light brown 3 tablespoons finely diced shallots 3 tablespoons finely diced lime 3 tablespoons finely diced ginger 3 tablespoons small dried shrimps, chopped 3 tablespoons unsalted roasted peanuts 2 tablespoons chopped green bird's-eye chillies Sauce: 1 tablespoon shrimp paste tablespoon sliced galangal tablespoon sliced shallots 2 tablespoons grated coconut 3 tablespoons chopped unsalted peanuts 2 tablespoons chopped dried shrimps 1 teaspoon sliced ginger 1 cup chopped palm sugar 2 cups water Prepare the sauce first. Roast the shrimp paste, galangal and shallots until fragrant, then leave to cool. Place with the coconut, peanuts, shrimps and ginger in a blender or food processor and blend, or pound with a mortar and pestle until fine. Transfer the mixture into a heavy-bottomed pan with the sugar and water, mix well and bring to a boil. Simmer until it is reduced to about 1 cup, then let it cool. To serve, pour the sauce into a serving bowl and arrange all the ingredients in separate piles on small bowls. To eat, take a lettuce leaf, place a small amount of each of the filling ingredients in the middle, top with a spoonful of sauce and fold up into a little package.

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