Dws Guide 2013 Dalmatia

Deep Water Soloing in Dalmatia
Deep water soloing over the years has become one very popular way for dalmatian climbers to do a good training without sweating due to high temperatures in the summer time. Here in Dalmatia we are blessed to have who-knows-how-many locations for practicing this way of climbing since this is a country with 1000 islands and interesting thing is that almost every island has vertical or overhanging cliffs on its south side. Very important thing to say about Dalmatian deep water soloing is that we have very friendly sea with practicly no danger from it. We have red so many articles from all over the world, especially Mallorca and Dorset, and main problem for people over there are jellyfish which may become very dangerous for climbers or any humans. Adriatic sea doesnt have so many jellyfish, and the one we do have are so rear and not so dangerous. We do not have dangerous sharks or any other life treating danger living in the Adriatic.
Short history of DWS in Croatia
2005. best world climbers came to Croatia and went to Kornati archipelago (the best DWS area in Dalmatia). They spend couple of days climbing in National park and they succeeded to climb the hardest DWS route in the world until then, Ring of fire 8b+. This event has been recorded and distributed all over the world known as climbing movie DEPTHCHARGE. This was the spark that started DWS revolution in Croatia. 2006. we have been visited by World champion Tomas Mrazek who also tried deep water solo for the first time. Here we bring you some of the most popular Deep Water Solo areas here in Dalmatia.
Locations for DWS in Dalmatia
1. 2. 2. 3.
Sustipan - Split area Katalinka - Split area Kasjuni - Split area Ciovo
4. Hvar 5. Vis 6. Kornati Archipelago - National Park
First tracks of deep water solo in Croatia started in mid 90s in Split town region, local area called Sustipan, where Dalmatian climbers came and saw overhanging cliffs and immediately started to climb. Interesting thing is that traditionally we climbed barefooted, without chalk. Because of this, you needed some period of adaptation, specially for your feets who would become bloody very often. It was brutal! Only beginners were wearing climbing shoes until they adopted. Its so funny to remember those days. After Big up production movie Psihobloc DWS started to become must-do-thing here, and it started to develop in lots of ways. First we have realized that without climbing shoes we are limited with hard routes. So we started to use them and it was a relief! The hardest routes in the region were instantly repeated(we are talking about grades up to 7b+) and we were ready for new, harder and higher places. Today we have climbers who are practicing only deep water soloing during the summer. They are opening new routes, exploring and developing new areas, preparing topos and waiting for strong climbers to come again. Today we are climbing with chalk so we are even preparing bolts under the specific lines, just above the sea surface so climbers can swim to it, get out and dry, put some chalk and go. It is a different story and we find it much more challenging this way.
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Sector Big Ciovo
dalmatiaclimbing.com
SPLIT AREA SUSTIPAN
EUROPE
SUSTIPAN is the oldest DWS area in Croatia. It is located in Split, near the city center. Cliffs are mainly 6-10m high and the routes are usually overhanging (or very overhanging) with large holds. Right now there are about 20 routes up to 7c. For DWS on Sustipan you don't necessarily need a boat because it is possible to reach the cliffs from the neighboring beach. How to get to Sustipan DWS area? Sustipan is placed on the West side of main harbour of city of Split. To get there you dont need a boat, you can get there by the foot for just 10 minutes from the center. From main promenade you just follow the road which lead to the west side of the harbour. There is ACY marina you will pass by, and you will get to beautiful park called Sustipan. Once this was cemetery but today is great place to chill out. You can find here some slack liners in the summer!. The crag is just below the park and you can get there easily, by the pool and passing by the caff on the beach. It is the oldest and most popular DWS area in Split and there is not to many potential for new lines, the best has been already climbed.
SPLIT
CROATIA
DALMATIA
Tomas Mrazek, Project, Sustipan

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I.Franceschi, Psihotest 6a, Sustipan, Split Sustipan, Split
Sustipan, Split
Sector A
Sector B
I.Supic, Skalinada 6a, Ciovo
1. Melita, 6c+, 9m, FA: J.Purko 2. Project, 9m 3. Psiho test, 6a, 9m, FA: I.Franceschi 4. Meje blues livo, 6a+, 8m, FA: S.Mateic 5. Meje blues, 6a+, 8m, FA: S.Mateic 6. Meje blues desno, 6a+, 8m, FA: S.Mateic 7. Roll the dice, 6c+, 9m, FA: I.Franceschi 8. Norijev problem, 6c, 9m, FA: I.Franceschi A. Dalmatina, 6b+, 100m, FA: I.Franceschi
Sector A
Sector B
1. Laganica, 5c, 7m, FA: D.Piccini 2. As, 6a, 7m, FA: D.Piccini 3. Srecica, 6b+, 7m, FA: D.Piccini 4. Golubinjak, 6a, 7m, FA: I.Franceschi 5. Nesrecica, 6c, 7m, FA: D.Piccini 6. Zabluda, 7a, 7m, FA: I.Franceschi 7. Skuzaj Dani, 6c+, 7m, FA: B.Koracak 8. Grmi camuga i beraci pamuka, 7a, 7m, FA: I.Mihalj 9. Waka waka, 7b, 7m, FA; L.Trumbic 10. Cosa nostra/Sopranosi, 7a+,9m, FA: B.Koracak 11. Svadbeni uspon, 7c, 9m, FA: L.Trumbic 12. Hrvatska, 7a+, 8m, FA: I.Franceschi 13. Za stari tocak, 7a, 9m, FA: I.Franceschi 14. Los prsuto, 7a, 9m, FA: T.Mrazek 15. Witness the fatness, 6c+, FA: D.Supe A. Norijeva precka, 7a, 20m, Traverse, FA: I.Franceschi B. Ten years after, 7b, 20m, Travesre, FA: I.Franceschi A.+B. Adrenalina, 7b+, 40m, Traverse, FA: D.Piccini
Sector A
Sector B
SPLIT KATALINKA
KATALINKA area is very small deep water solo area with just a dozen routes, but very popular since its very easy to reach it from the city harbour. The wall is not high, so its very nice for beginners with easy grades too. How to get there? Katalinka is placed on the east side of the main city harbour so It is easiest to explain how to reach it from there. To get here you wont need the boat, its reachable by foot, only ten minutes of walking from the Split center. You just walk from the ferry station towards east, follow the road which slightly goes uphill until you dont find yourself on the bridge where from you can see main city beach, Bacvice. That hill you are standing on is Katalinka, where on its south side lies our wall for deep water solo. Potential is not something this wall offers. All good lines has been climbed and there is no room for more. Note Not every part of this wall is possible to climb due to very shal-
low water or very large boulders inside of the water. Check the depth before climbing! Warning! During the morning tides the sea depth is getting shallow.
KATALINKA
1. Nekakvo lagano vino, 5b, 4m 2. Winesweeper, 5c, 4m 3. Gays&wines, 5c, 5m 4. Rupe vina, 4c, 4m 5. Adijabata vinskog plina, 5b, 4m 6. Klingon blood wine, 6a+, 6m 7. Solo for Matea, 6a, 7m 8. Ko rano rani vise vina grabi, 6b+/c, 9m 9. Lose vino, 6b+, 9m 10. Kutjevacka Grasevina, 6b, 9m 11. Skenderbeg, 6b+, 9m, FA: B.Koracak 12. Pijani brod, 7a, 9m 13. Loyhka vini, 6b, 9m 14. Wine leaching, 6a+, 5m 15. Bacchus, 6a+, 8m 16. Warm up the wine, 4c, 4m A. Dalmacijavino, 6c, 20m, Traverse
Katalinka
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SPLIT
KASJUNI
KASJUNI area is very nice and popular city beach few km west from Sustipan. It lies below Santine stine, very popular sport climbing area. The wall itself is very friendly for beginners in deep water solo. Not too high, lots of holds and very good structure of the rock and easy grades. We definitely recommend this place! APPROACH The wall is very easy to approach from the road which goes West at Marjan peninsula. It is possible to reach the wall by swimming from Kasjuni beach, or walk on the top of the wall from the main road, on the junction for Kasjuni beach down to the South following dirt road for just few minutes. The wall lies spreading between the beach and Vila Dalmacija, which is known in the history as Titos Vila, area where is forbidden to swim. Note Not every part of this wall is possible to climb due to very shallow water or very large boulders inside of the water. Check the depth before climbing!
KASJUNI
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Stup, 5a, 4m, FA: D.Piccini Plata, 5c, 7m, FA: D.Piccini Brid, 6a, 7m, FA: D.Piccini Pukotina, 5c, 7m, FA: D.Piccini Kaktus, 5b, 5m, FA: D.Piccini
6. Veranda, 5a, 6m, FA: D.Piccini 7. Dalmatinka, 5b, 10m, FA: D.Piccini 8. Project, 10m 9. entada, 6b, 10m, FA: D.Piccini 10. Bunika, 5c, 10m, FA: D.Piccini
Kasjuni
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T.Piccini, Veranda 5a, Kasjuni
DWS at Kasjuni Area
V.Piccini, Skalinada 6a, Ciovo
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CIOVO
CIOVO is very close to Split area with a great DWS potential. Development of DWS started 2005. and there are just about 110 routes (5c-7c) to climb there. Routes are usually much higher (up to 20m) than on Sustipan area and climbing is more serious and dangerous. Certain sectors are impossible to climb without chalk! Possibilities for hard routes is enormous! There is 12 sectors so far and interesting thing about them is that every one is different from the other by the height, rock formation, holds and color, so you feel like visiting completely different area. There is a big number of projects here on Ciovo and we cant wait for some strong climbers to come and climb some of those! How to reach Ciovo? Al do it is very probably the best deep water solo area in the region, it is very hard to reach it without a boat and even if you get on the south side of the island, the distance between sectors is to large to swim. By car you can get to Gospa od Prizidnice, monastery which lies on the south side of the island just by the vertical cliffs of Ciovo and you can have there great day of swimming in the crystal clear sea with beautiful colors. Note! Our company Avantura d.o.o. is organizing deep water solo trips. Please do contact us for details!
SPLIT AREA
Sector Granit, Ciovo
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Sector CRVENE STINE
SECTOR CRVENE STINE
1. Time out, 6c, 8m, FA: S.Whittall 2. Be strong, 7a+, 8m, FA: S.Whittall 3. Be sure, 7a, 8m, FA: S.Whittall 4. Up up and away, 6c+, 8m, FA: S.Whittall
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5. Into the blue, 6c, 8m, FA: S.Whittall 6. Dave Jones Locker want you!, 6c, 8m, FA: S.Whittall 7. Fish food, 5c, 8m, FA: S.Wwhittall
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Sector TRIANGLE
SECTOR TRIANGLE
1. Blue Fin tuna, 5b, FA: S.Whittall 2. Hot tuna, 5b, FA: S.Whittall 3. Sword fish, 6b, FA: S.Whittall 4. Skyhook, 6b, FA: S.Whittall 5. Magic moments, 5a, FA: S.Whittall 6. Moment of madness, 7a, FA: S.Whittall 7. Dont stop, 6c+, FA: S.Whittall 8. No money, no honey, 7a+, FA: S.Whittall 9. Puno zuji, malo meda daje, 7b+, FA: S.Whittall
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10. Dangerous but fun, 7a, FA: S.Whittall 11. Happy hour, 6a-6b, FA: S.Whittall 12. One step beyond, 6b, FA: S.Whittall 13. One way ticket, project 14. Dont look down, 6b+, FA: S.Whittall 15. Warm up routes 16. Warm up routes A approach to route 13. and 14.
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Sector MALI PREVJES
SECTOR MALI PREVJES
1. Black fish, 5a, FA: S.Whittall 2. Dead fish, 5a, FA: S.Whittall 3. No fish!, 6a, FA: S.Whittall 4. Project 5. To be or not 2be, 7a+, FA: S.Whittall
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6. Be happy be free, 7b, FA: S.Whittall 7. No escape, 7b, FA: S.Whittall 8. Where eagles dare, 6a, FA: S.Whittall 9. On a mission from God, 7a+, FA: S.Whittall 10. Free fall, 7a+, FA: S.Whittall 11. Project
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Sector ORANGE
SECTOR ORANGE
1. 2. 3. 4.
Steves crack, 7a+, 13m, FA: S.Whittall Poluga, 6c+, 10m, FA: S.Whittall Project Sun is Fun, 5b, 8m FA: D.Piccini
5. Run to sun, 6b+, 11m FA: D.Piccini, no logical end, the holds are dissapearing 6. Project 7. Project
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Sector GRANIT
SECTOR GRANIT
1. Friskina, 5b, 9m, FA: B.Koracak 2. Zizic, 6a, 9m, FA: D.Piccini 3. Korner, 6a+, 13m, FA: D.Piccini 4. Lokalac, 7b/b+, 13m, FA: D:Piccini * 5. Project, 17m * 6. Letterbox, 7a, 17m, FA: S.Whittall 7. Paklena naranca, 6b, 20m, FA: D.Piccini 8. Pirka, 7a, 9m FA: D.Piccini 9. Project, 9m 10. Parabolica, 7c, 9m, FA: D.Piccini 2012. * 11. Psihobloc, 7c, 9m, FA: L.Kivela (First 7c) 2010. * 12. Lusija, 6c, 9m, FA: D.Piccini *
13. Mindja, 7b+/c, 10m, FA: L.Kivela * + 2nd part, Project, 18m 14. Kriya, 7a, 13m, FA: B.Koracak * 15. Ruski rulet, 7b, 13m, FA: B.Koracak (First 7b) * 16. Project 17. Tariguz, 6c, 13m , FA: B.Koracak * 18. Cobra crack, project, 12m * 19. Brabonjak, 6a, 6m, FA: D.Piccini A. The cure for panic, 7a+, 25m, Traverse, FA: D.Piccini *
Nice climbing, crimps mostly, great moving. The routes with * mark have bolts placed at the bottom of some routes, so you can get out, get dry and use chalk.
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I.Lisica, Tariguz 6c, Ciovo Sector Granit, Ciovo
Sector Sustipan, Ciovo
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Sector SHARP
SECTOR SHARP
1. Shuriken, 6a+, 9m, FA: D.Piccini 2. UV faktor, 6b, 9m, FA: D.Piccini 3. Dalmos, 6a+, 9m, FA: D.Piccini
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S.Whittall, Paklena naranca 6b, Ciovo

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T.Piccini, Cupko 5c, Ciovo
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D.Piccini, Melita 6c+, Sustipan
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Sector NB
SECTOR NB
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
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Easy, 5a, 6m, FA: D.Piccini Kljun, 6a, 8m, FA: D.Piccini Barkarjol, 6a, 7m, FA: B.Koracak Robinson, 6a, 6m, FA: D.Piccini Game Over, 6a+, 6m, FA: D.Supe G.O., 6b,5m FA: S.Malenica
dalmatiaclimbing.com dalmatiaclimbing.com
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Sector SUSTIPAN
SEKTOR SUSTIPAN
1. Skuzaj Boro, 6a,12m, FA: D.Piccini 2. Morska bolest, 6a+, 11m, FA: B.Koracak 3. Zvijezda, 6a+, 11m, FA: B.Koracak 4. Skalinada, 6a, 11m, FA: D.Piccini 5. Project, 18m 6. Varijanta zecine, 6c+, 15m, FA: L.Trumbic 7. Zecina, 6a+, 15m, FA: B.Koracak
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8. Altophobia, 5b, 13m, FA: N.Bajic 9. Easy ride, 5c, 12m, FA: D.Piccini 10. Cupko, 5c, 11m, FA: D.Supe A. Panika, 6b+, 60m, Traverse, FA: N.Bajic Very popular sector because of big number of very good holds and jams. The height is also nice, up to 20m. All routes has been climbed without chalk. Good warm up sector!
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Sector WHITE
SECTOR WHITE
1. 2. 3. 4.
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Dinamika, 6b-c, FA: I.Savin (broken hold after FA) Project Ready-Cool, Project Daddy-Cool, Project Krs, 6a+, 12m, FA: D.Piccini
5. Lupocet, 6a, 12m, FA: D.Piccini 6. La plata, project, 15m 7. Living on the edge, Project The left project - most atractive one - has got a bolt at the bottom of the route.
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Sector SUPLJA STINA
SECTOR SUPLJA STINA
1. Krik naglas, 6a+, 12m, FA: R.Webb 2. The only way is up, 6c+/7a, 10m, FA: D.Piccini + ext, Project, 18m 3. Project, 18m
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4. Glupaca, 6a+, 10m, FA: D.Piccini + ext, Project, 5. Project, 6. Project,

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T.Zlodre, Kriya 7a, Ciovo

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R.Webb, Paklena naranca 6b, Ciovo

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Sector DVICA
SECTOR DVICA
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
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Project, 16m * Project, 12m * Project, 10m * Project, 18m * Tasmanijska neman, 6b,13m, FA: Rick Webb *
6. Project, 19m 7. Livada, 5a, 10m, FA: D.Piccini 8. Project, 7m 9. Natko ti si car, 6b, 5m, FA: D.Piccini Very demanding and hard sector. Easiest routes has been climbed, only the hard projects left. The rock is very sharp. Four projects have bolts placed at the bottom of the routes!
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Sector BIG
SECTOR BIG
1. Project, 2. Project, 3. Project, 7b+? * 4. Morski pas, 6a,12m, FA: D.Piccini 5. Project, 6. Plankton, 6a, 12m, FA: R.Webb 7. Project, *
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Deep water solo trips Contact us: info@avantura.biz ++385915295990, ++385915062163 www.avantura.biz
8. Project, 7a?, * 9. Jukebox, 7b, 9m, FA: D.Piccini * +ext, project 10. Project, ? 15m * 11. Golupcici, 6a, 12m, FA: J.Zekan * 12. Project, * Great sector, the highest one! Many routes, easy ones, too. The 3 hardest projects have bolts placed at the bottom of the routes!
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D.Piccini, Psihobloc, 7c, Ciovo
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Hvar ISLAND
Very popular tourist destination in Dalmatia is Hvar island, the most sunniest island in Adriatic sea, 300 sunny days in a year is a good invitation for you to come and check it out why. In climbing way this is also very popular destination for sport climbing, but DWS too. The best location is Sveta Nedilja, very small but very beautiful area famous among local red wine production.
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HVAR ISLAND - SV.NEDJELJA SUPLJA STINA - CLIFFBASE Hvar is also well known DWS area with the hardest routes up to 8a (traverse 100m). Few years ago in May 2004. deep water solo festival happened on this location. You can reach cliffs without a boat. How to reach Hvar? Once you get to the island with ferry from Split, you need to drive one hour to the south side of the island until you reach Sveta Nedilja. You go to the coast and park your car there. Some 20min. of walking along shore towards West will take you to the Suplja stina, amazing location along the sea. Middle part of Suplja stina offer grandiose possibilities of DWS. There are about 20 known DWS lines, up to 20m, grade from 5a to 7a. But here, DWS can be much more, play in fantastic rock structure area, full of grips, colors with deep blue beneath. You can even zig-zag, travers or just sea bolder few meters above the sea. NOTE This area is on private property. For visiting you need to call Miroslav 00385 91 764 8182. Daily ticket price 3 EUR. www.cliffbase.com; cliffbase@cliffbase.com
HVAR, SV.NEDJELJA, SUPLJA STINA, CLIFFBASE
Sport climbing routes

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Deep water solo

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I.Franceschi, Sustipan
S.Malenica, Project, Ciovo

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Vis ISLAND
DALMATIA
Vis island has a really big potential for rock climbing in global, but also for deep water solo. Mainly on its south side you can reach cliffs great for DWS and mostly unclimbed so far. How to reach Vis? It is easy to get on the island of Vis. From Split harbour you have ferry that will take you there. But it is not easy to reach cliffs without a boat. It is a pity since such a great potential can be reached by very small number of climbers. So far we have three interesting places for deep water solo in Vis region marked on the map of the island: Stiniva, Zelena spilja, Bisevo. Viska Stiniva is amazing spot. Nature has created beautiful spot which is worth visiting. The hidden beach is absolutely unbelievable and it is surrounded with vertical cliffs. Stiniva is reachable by car/on foot. It is
placed on the south side of the island. Not to many lines here to climb but what is there is very attractive. So far there has been climbed just three lines. Zelena spilja is very small island belong to Viski skoji archipelago. In the middle of the island there is a cave with a little hole in the middle where the sunlight goes through and creates green light inside of the cave. The DWS routes here are easy, with possibility for some harder lines. Height is very friendly, up to 13 metres. The rock is very sharp. Bisevo island has become famous for its Blue Cave, very popular and touristy place. Definitely worth visiting! This island doesnt give us to many potential for climbing, but if you find yourself by the boat in the close distance, we surely recommend to come here. One of the walls is in Porat, the small cove on west side of the island famous among its sandy beach.
STINIVA
1. Tsunami, 6a, 10m, FA: D.Piccini 2. Paradise city, 6c, 11m, FA: D.Piccini 3. Bodul, 7a, 13m, FA: D.Piccini
STINIVA
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D.Jurisic, Melita, 6c+, Sustipan, Split

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L.Kivela, Mindja, 7b+/c, Ciovo
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ZELENA SPILJA
1. Viska pogaca, 5a, 9m, FA: D.Piccini 2. Plovac, 5c, 10m, FA: D.Piccini 3. Klin, 5c, 11m, FA: D.Piccini 4. Dalmata, 6a+, 12m, FA: D.Piccini
5. Fortuna, 6b, 13m, FA: D.Piccini 6. Project, 16m 7. Crvenokosa, 6a, 11m, FA: D.Piccini 8. Rogacica, 5a, 11m, FA: D.Piccini
Zelena spilja
BISEVO
1. Project, 12m 2. Zlatna pirueta, 5a, 13m, FA: D.Piccini
H.Lacic, Za stari toak 7a, Sustipan

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Kornati ISLANDS
KORNATI (National park) It is amazing and awesome! This region is located north from Split, close to Sibenik and Zadar town. 90 islands on one small area where almost every island present attraction to climbers with its south side. Vertical, overhanging cliffs, lots of holes, caves above the sea gives opportunity to climb the way you prefer. Different heights of islands are optional too. The most impressive one, called Mana island, will leave you breathless. At year 2005. as we sad before, the best world climbers visited this region and climbed 50 routes on different locations with hardest one Ring of fire, 8b+. Over the years Croatian climbers have done some routes but we do not have any tracks or topos. You cannot access this area without a boat, and you have to pay daily ticket for visiting National Park.
I.Lisica, Ruski rulet 7b, Ciovo
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Contact: info@dalmatiaclimbing.com +385915295990; +385915052163 Partners: We have been outdoors for a long time and we have lots of partners we are working with. Here are some : www.marulianus.hr www.avantura.biz www.dalmatina.net Publications:
ADVENTURES organize adventure day trips in Dalmatia! Check out our website for details!
AVANTURA
www.avantura.biz
cover page picture: D.Piccini, Psihobloc, 7c, Ciovo

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Deep Water Soloing in Dalmatia

4. Hvar 5. Vis 6. Kornati Archipelago - National Park

Sector Big Ciovo

SPLIT AREA SUSTIPAN

Tomas Mrazek, Project, Sustipan

I.Franceschi, Psihotest 6a, Sustipan, Split Sustipan, Split

I.Supic, Skalinada 6a, Ciovo

T.Piccini, Veranda 5a, Kasjuni

DWS at Kasjuni Area

V.Piccini, Skalinada 6a, Ciovo

Sector Granit, Ciovo

Sector CRVENE STINE

SECTOR CRVENE STINE

Sector MALI PREVJES

SECTOR MALI PREVJES

I.Lisica, Tariguz 6c, Ciovo Sector Granit, Ciovo

Sector Sustipan, Ciovo

S.Whittall, Paklena naranca 6b, Ciovo

T.Piccini, Cupko 5c, Ciovo

D.Piccini, Melita 6c+, Sustipan

Sector SUPLJA STINA

SECTOR SUPLJA STINA

4. Glupaca, 6a+, 10m, FA: D.Piccini + ext, Project, 5. Project, 6. Project,

T.Zlodre, Kriya 7a, Ciovo

R.Webb, Paklena naranca 6b, Ciovo

D.Piccini, Psihobloc, 7c, Ciovo

HVAR, SV.NEDJELJA, SUPLJA STINA, CLIFFBASE

Sport climbing routes

Deep water solo

S.Malenica, Project, Ciovo

D.Jurisic, Melita, 6c+, Sustipan, Split

L.Kivela, Mindja, 7b+/c, Ciovo

1. Project, 12m 2. Zlatna pirueta, 5a, 13m, FA: D.Piccini

H.Lacic, Za stari toak 7a, Sustipan

I.Lisica, Ruski rulet 7b, Ciovo

cover page picture: D.Piccini, Psihobloc, 7c, Ciovo

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