Amsterdam

N01 - 2.
95
amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
aMStERdaM
Summer 2011
In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
amsterdam-Noord
See whats on the other
side of the River IJ
ajax
A football team loved and
loathed by many
CONTENTS
3
CONTENTS
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Summer 2011 amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
Foreword 4
A few words from the editor
Arriving in Amsterdam 5
How to get to your hotel
Basics 6
Getting to grips with Amsterdam
History 8
The citys past on two pages
Culture & Events 10
Concerts, exhibitions and events
Where to stay 20
Beds for backpackers and business executives
Dining & Nightlife 24
The Dutch have much more to offer than cheese
Cafs 34
Classic cafs and high tea
Nightlife 36
Bars, pubs, clubs and cafs
A whole other world awaits you on the other side of the River
IJ. Explore Amsterdam-Noord on p.74. Photo by M.Zaprauskis
Contents
Striking out in De Wallen 45
An evening in the Red Light district
Gay Amsterdam 46
A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam
High Times in Holland 48
How to smoke legally and responsibly
Sightseeing 52
Museums, churches and other sights
Getting around 63
Bikes, boats and trains
Directory
Shopping 64
Sports & Leisure 68
Lifestyle directory 70
Health & Wellness 72
Amsterdam-Noord 74
See whats on the other side of the River IJ
Maps & Index
Amsterdam-Noord map 84
Restaurant, coffeeshop and nightlife index 86
Old centre map 87
Amsterdam city centre map 88
Netherlands map 90
Old centre street register 91
With a history that stretches back to the first years of the
20th century, Ajax is one of the most renowned football
clubs in the world. Ajax stars have gone on to become
integral members of European sides and the national
team. Learn more about Amsterdams iconic team on p.69
and 76. Photo courtesy of Ajax Footbal Club
4
FOREWORD
Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Editorial
Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis
(martins@inyourpocket.com) &
Theo Leerintveld (theo.leerintveld@
inyourpocket.com)
Contributors Peter van Lent (history),
Pete Wu & Sami Saoubna
Research Theo Leerintveld, Lies
Heessels & Joep van Aert
Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis
& Girts Upenieks
Photos T.Leerintveld, M. Zaprauskis,
Ilse Ouwens and Lya Cattel, unless
otherwise noted. Others courtesy of
Amsterdam-Noord and AFC Ajax
Cover photo Lya Cattel
Sales & Circulation
Advertising Rick Blom & Arnold
Gruppen: info@minicards.com, (+31)
207 71 41 86.
Circulation Minicards V.O.F.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket
Netherlands 2011. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket: Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania.
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
In Your Pocket Netherlands
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amsterdam@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 2211-2480
In Your Pocket Netherlands
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Published four times per year
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Amsterdam In Your Pockets inaugural
cover was taken at the Amstel River
where endless cafs spill out onto sum-
mer terraces, boat landings and any
other free space available. Sitting in the
sunshine with a tasty microbrew is one
of the small, yet essential pleasures that
we recommend to anyone spending even
a little time in the Dutch capital.
Cover story
Legal and very public prostitution, coffeeshops selling
weed and hash on nearly every street corner and a mind
blowing variety of delicious Dutch and Belgian brews in
every bar? Its a crime that In Your Pocket hasnt tackled
this city until now. No longer content to cover only post-
Soviet capitals, Slavic medieval villages spelled with more
consonants than vowels and Balkan beach communities
forgotten by time, weve slowly been moving west as well
as south. But in keeping with our inexplicable aversion to
tourist Meccas, our writers eased into the Netherlands by
pocketing such cities as s-Hertogenbosch, Utrecht and
Tilburg first. An In Your Pocket guide to Amsterdam was,
however, inevitable and part of our grand plan for global
domination. Dont laugh. An intrepid Dutchman, who well
call Jeff to safeguard his identity, is currently scouring the
southern reaches of the African continent for interesting
content for In Your Pocket guides to Mozambique and
South Africa, so keep checking our website for updates.
But lets return to the Dutch capital. This city of canals
has much more to offer beyond debauchery and carousing
opportunities. Museums like the Van Gogh are world class
and worth their elevated admission fees and long queues
and a casual stroll through the city will afford any visitor
more picture-perfect vistas than most cities could ever
dream of. That said, the centre of town can get ridiculously
crowded, so why not take a free ferry or bike ride over
the river and discover Amsterdam North, a section of the
capital that most travellers regretfully never see. Explore
rural villages, ultra-modern buildings that have replaced
factories and heavy industry and pristine and protected
wetlands just beyond the Central Station.
We hope you enjoy our first guide and find it useful, but
bear in mind that we werent able to publish everything
weve covered so visit our website for hundreds more
reviews of restaurants, bars, shops and sights.
In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of
late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands
(with Tilburg and this Amsterdam guide), in
Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (ibenik) and in
Switzerland (Zurich). This year will also see the
first non-European Pockets rolled out in South
Africa and Mozambique.
We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to all
our cities. We will be launching even more In Your
Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to
find out which cities well be covering, and to keep
up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like
In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.
com/inyourpocket).
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FOREWORD
VVV Tourist information F-3, Central Station
(Platform 2b), tel. (+31) 90 04 00 40 40, www.
iamsterdam.com. The information centre in the train
station can get quite crowded, so you might want to
just cross the street and enter the white building to find
yet another official information centre. Take some bro-
chures, buy a guide or take a number if youd like to talk
to a staff member. They can give you ideas and advice
about excursions, set you up with a map and help with
plenty of other pressing questions. The office to the left
can explain the public transportation system and sell you
tickets for trams and buses. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Also at A-1,
Stationsplein 10; Schiphol Airport (Arrivals 2). JA
Tourist information
5
ARRIVING IN AMSTERDAM
Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode
of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the
Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.
From here its usually only a short walk or tram ride to your
hotel or hostel.
By plane
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than 10km
southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest airports
in Europe receiving 48 million passengers each year, but
its easy to navigate and pleasantly efficient. Youll find your
luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and luggage trolleys are
abundant and free. If youre planning on taking the train to
Amsterdam, which is the easiest way to reach the city centre,
you might want to buy a ticket at one of the yellow and blue
machines next to the conveyor belts while youre waiting for
your suitcase. The machines are fairly self-explanatory and
available in English and you can pay for the short journey with
a credit or bankcard. Once you clear customs youll enter the
large arrivals hall, which is essentially part airport, part train
station, part shopping centre and part food court. Although
located under one roof, the building is divided, nominally at
least, into terminals 1 - 4. Just walk straight to the main hall
to find most services that you might need including trans-
portation to the city. An official tourist information centre
is available in terminal 2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage
storage and lockers are available downstairs between
terminals 1 and 2. Lockers cost 6/24hrs and you can pay
with a card or with coins. You can also leave your bags at
the storage office for the same price, but its only open from
06:15 - 22:45. A small bank of lockers is also available on the
ground floor between terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency
exchanges and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any
problems getting money.
Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to the far
right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and youll find a
Travel Taxi office where you can order a cab and watch some
TV until they call your name. Buses and hotel shuttles are
available outside the terminal. Just walk straight through the
arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside with the names
of the citys biggest hotels that operate their own shuttles.
Each chain has its own schedule, which is clearly marked at
the stop. You can also take the blue Connexxion Schiphol
Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle that stops at a number of
large hotels along a planned route. A very long list of hotels is
posted at the stand. A single ticket costs 15.50 and children
4 - 14 travel for half price. If your hotel isnt listed its possible
that it can be arranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for
Leidseplein in the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses
to a variety of other destinations in Amsterdam.
If youre like most people you wont even leave the ter-
minal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that
will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes for
only 3.70. Just walk into the main hall to find a list of train
departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you can
purchase one from one of the many ticket machines with
a credit card. Just choose English as your language on the
touch-screen then choose the following steps: single, des-
tination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and the
number of tickets. Choose your method of payment, insert
your credit card, enter your PIN, confirm the price and then
wait for your ticket to be printed. Once you reach the Central
Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train tickets
at the Train Tickets & Services office but youll pay an extra
0.50. Q
Schiphol Amsterdam Airport Evert v/d Beekstraat
202, tel. (+31) 207 94 08 00/09 00 01 41, www.
schiphol.nl.
By train
Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that
was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achievement
in its own right, it was later criticised by urban planners for
having cut off the city of canals from its most essential
waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many of the
citys historic cafs were afforded an impressive vista of
ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. Today,
the massive edifice and its surroundings are a bit of a mess
as the station is being renovated and retrofitted to accom-
modate a controversial new metro line.
Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk down-
stairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands, kiosks,
fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex (www.
gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00)
currency exchange and an ATM are available near the
south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and 4/5. For
toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to platform 2. At
the far end of the same platform are a Burger King, Ben &
Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas (1st Class)
and a bar, Caf Balkon.
For tourist information we recommend you exit the
building on the city centre side and walk across the street
to the official VVV tourist information centre (see Tourist
information). Lockers for luggage storage are located on
the far east side of the station, but it might take a while to
find an empty locker and even more time to figure out how
to use one. You can only pay with a credit card. Place your
belongings in a locker and close the door. Find the nearest
keypad that corresponds with the numbered section of lock-
ers you have chosen. Confirm that the locker number listed is
the locker you have chosen and then swipe your credit card.
Just stick it in the slot and pull it out. A ticket good for 24
hours will be printed. When you want to remove your luggage
just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your locker
will automatically open.
Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town and
all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys best, and
worst, hotels are only a short walk from here, but if youre
staying in another section of town such as the Museum
District you can take one of the many trams outside. Buy
a ticket from the driver for 2.60. He will activate the card
for you, but you have to place it up against one of the ticket
readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on using public
transport frequently in Amsterdam it might be worth buying
an extended ticket. Exit the train station and walk across the
street to the GVB office (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 18:00) to the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free
ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side
of the station on the River IJ. Q
6
BASICS
BASICS
Read on and find out why the Dutch allow people to smoke
joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty of
other fun facts about the Netherlands are available here.
Alcohol
Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre
never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken,
Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but
other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A
wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on offer at
most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from
Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip
to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of the
ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that specialise
in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as jenever.
You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or wine and
18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll be carded, so
always bring identification. This holds true for supermarkets
and off-licences, too. If youre a little too tipsy youll probably
be asked (firmly, yet kindly) to leave the premises and if you
dont cooperate you could end up spending a night sobering
up in a drunk tank. Q
Cycling
Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basically
as flat as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive country
for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection of cycling
paths and youll see why the Dutch love their bikes so much.
Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like Amsterdam can
still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars, trucks, trams, buses,
scooters and even pedestrians can all serve as terrifying
obstacles that seem to pop up into your field of vision from
nowhere, but other cyclists can also be just as big of a danger.
Although parents are confident enough in bicycle safety to
attach carts to their bikes to transport their children around
town, loads of other cyclists ignore traffic rules and basically
ride wherever they like often causing mayhem. Q
Disabled travellers
Access for disabled people is taken into consideration
nearly everywhere in the Netherlands. Many public buildings
have special entrances, lifts and toilets that are wheelchair
friendly. Blind and visually impaired travellers can find their
way on pavements thanks to special adjusted tiles and many
pedestrian crossings at traffic lights have clicking noises as
well as light signals. If you end up in a rare place where this
isnt the case you can ask any bystander for assistance. The
Dutch are very helpful and will make sure that you arrive at
your destination safely. Q
Drugs
It comes as no surprise that in many places in the Nether-
lands youre allowed to buy and smoke marijuana and other
soft drugs. And you may have also heard that dealing or
possessing hard drugs is forbidden. You can be arrested for
it and punishments are no laughing matter. Soft drugs are
sold exclusively at so-called coffeeshops so dont buy them
on the streets. These products are often not inspected and
may be adulterated with unknown rubbish. Again, dealing is
forbidden. Stay wise and limit yourself to the coffeeshops
and get high responsibly. Q
Habits
No, most Dutch people dont wear clogs to work and not ev-
erybody cultivates tulips, makes cheese or works in a windmill.
That the Dutch are busybodies has been known for centuries.
In the Dutch Golden Age, the Dutch East India Company spread
its tentacles across the world and this trading spirit is still a
part of the local mentality. The largest part of the population
works in financial services or the retail trade. Bargaining when
you buy something in a shop or at a market is not customary
and you can expect surprised expressions from shop staff if
you do. The Dutch are generally friendly, but they may strike
you as reserved. When people meet each other, they shake
hands; friends kiss each other three times on the cheek: left,
right, left. Dutch men are not too attentive, although they may
remember to let ladies go first. Q
Heal th & Safety
Amsterdam is a relatively safe city for both residents and
tourists, but you should watch out for pickpockets and shady
people offering drugs. Obviously, dont leave your belongings
unattended and use common sense. There is a large police
presence on the streets, especially around the Red Light
District. It sounds silly, but people do occasionally fall into
canals, sometimes with their bikes. Bicycle theft is fairly
common which is why most rental companies offer insurance
and require security deposits. Q
Language
Dutch is an Indo-European Germani c language that is
mostly spoken in the Netherlands, Flanders and Suriname
(South America). It is closely connected to the Low German
dialects which by now have largely been flooded by official
German. These dialects managed to keep a number of
proto-Germanic characteristics and for this reason Dutch
as a language is a living fossil. It represents a group of
important dialects that were spoken by the founders of the
Frankish Empire and the Saxons. The latter group were the
founders of the English language as it is spoken today, hence
Anglo-Saxons. Afrikaans, as it is spoken in South Africa, is
descended from the 17th-century version of modern Dutch.
To the dismay of language purists, many English words have
been integrated into Dutch. Q
Mail & Phones
Depending on your phone usage, its well worth considering
buying a local SIM card. A prepaid account starts from around
10. To purchase one you need to show your passport.
Dialing All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before
all telephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but
of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from
abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call
one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) prefix,
dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. Q
McDonalds Big Mac 3.25 $4.51 2.80
Loaf of white bread 1.00 $1.39 0.86
Snickers bar 0.80 $1.11 0.69
0.7L of vodka 11.90 $16.53 10.26
0.5L bottle of local beer 0.56 $0.78 0.48
20 Marlboros 4.80 $6.67 4.14
Public transport ticket 1.60 $2.22 1.38
Cinema ticket 9.00 $12.50 7.76
1l of petrol 1.62 $2.25 1.40
Exchange rates (as of 07.06.2011)
US$1 - 0.72, 1 - 1.16, 100 - 0.87, AUD$1 - 0.72
Market values
BASICS
7
BASICS
Money
Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopted
the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is no ex-
ception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins
of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of 1 and 2 euro.
Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20,
50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collection of 200 and
500 bills in your wallet might make you feel like Bill Gates, or
better yet Steve Jobs, bear in mind that theyre almost never
accepted in shops or restaurants. All Dutch banks accept
Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in
mind that ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often
leading to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. At the
train station you can find a GWK Travelex shop (Stationsplein,
open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00). Many
restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and MasterCard,
but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry some money
with you as some bars only accept cash and others require
a minimum purchase of 15 - 20 to use a card. Q
National holidays
There are a number of public holidays in the Netherlands.
On these days shops, museums and attractions often close
earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools, city
councils, post offices and banks are closed and some shops
and restaurants may also close. Those still open will have
abbreviated opening hours.
January 1 New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)
April 6, 2012 Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag)
April 8 - 9, 2012 Easter (Pasen)
April 30 Queens Day (Koninginnedag)
May 1 Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid)
May 4 Remembrance of the Dead
(Nationale Herdenking)
May 5 Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid)
May 9 Mothers Day (Moederdag)
May 13 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag)
May 23 - 24 Whitsun (Pinksteren)
June 20 Fathers Day (Vaderdag)
June 26 Veterans Day (Veteranendag)
September 21 Budget Day (Prinsjesdag)
December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas)
December 25 - 26 Christmas (Kerstmis)
December 31 New Years Eve (Oudejaarsdag)
Post
TNT (Post Office) F-5, Singel 250, www.tntpost.nl. You
can buy stamps at most newsstands and drop off your post-
cards in the orange TNT boxes around town in the overige slot
or go straight to these centrally located post offices. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A
Prostitution
It may surprise you to know that the profession that has
helped to make Amsterdam a household word across the
globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the Dutch did
what they always do when confronted with a sticky social
problem. The police simply turned a blind eye to the prac-
tice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red Light district only
rousted sex workers i f they became too aggressive with
passers-by showing off body parts or tapping on the glass.
Today, window shopping on the Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a
popular tourist attraction, but please bear in mind that these
ladies are there to make a living and are not part of some
open-air zoo. Be respectful and, whatever you do, dont take
any photographs up close. Q
Roads
For a country as small as the Netherlands, there are a
ridiculously high number of asphalt roads and motorways.
Every town, village or hamlet can be reached from the black
ribbon that never seems to be more than a few kilometers
away. The majority of Dutch drivers never break the speed
limit, and considering the severity of traffic fines, this seems
wise enough. Driving through a red light? This will cost you
160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be prepared to pay
180! And as soon as you exceed the maximum speed by
50km/h youll lose your driving licence and be fined. Within
city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside city limits 80
and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the road signs). In the
Netherlands you must drive on the right side of the road,
and youre not allowed to cycle on motorways! You dont
want to know how many tourists are plucked off the road by
police each year. Q
Smoking
Until recently, smoking was very common in the Netherlands.
Since the introduction of the ban on smoking in public places
on 1 July 2008, smoking has become a lot less common.
This is partially because the government started a huge
campaign to make people aware of the effects of smoking
on their health. These days you can have a wild night out and
come home without your hair and clothes reeking of cigarette
smoke. For some this is an enormous benefit and others
(read: smokers) find it a pain and banish themselves to the
many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear rules
you may suddenly find yourself in a smoke-filled pub. This is
usually in bars with just a single staff member: the boss. Or
you may find yourself in a pub that flouts the ban on smoking.
This will not have any consequences for you. If you light a
cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates this, then the
manager will receive a fine upon inspection. The Netherlands
is of course also known for its wafts of marijuana. For more
information see Drugs. Q
Tipping
Tipping, if deserved, is up to the diner and both 10% or a
rounding up of the bill is acceptable. Q
Toilets
When you have to go badly, its not generally accepted to
simply barge into a caf or restaurant. If you do, staff will ap-
preciate if you ask in advance if you may use the toilet. If you
see a saucer by the toilets, then youre expected to donate
a small amount of money for toilet maintenance; 20 or 50
cents is fine. Theres an excellent privately owned toilet on the
citys main shopping street, the Kalverstraat, called 2theloo
(www.2theloo.com), which is well worth the 1 fee. Q
Colourful housing estate
8
HISTORY
1000 - First Settlements
Looking for land, farmers from Utrecht make their way to
the marshy area known as Aemstelle. By digging drainage
canals, the swampy land is slowly reclaimed. The farmers
and fishermen, who make their homes on both banks of the
Amstel River, build their houses on mounds to stay above
the water.
1250 - Dam on the Amstel River
Around 1250, a dam was constructed on the Amstel,
from which Amsterdam derived its name. The dam, which
was financed by the Lords of Amstel, connected the two
banks of the Amstel River. On this dam, which was slowly
expanded over time, the centre of what would later become
Amsterdam arose.
1275 - Toll Privileges of Floris V
The Toll Privilege, which was written
in 1275 by Floris V in Leiden, is the
oldest document in which Amsterdam
is mentioned. The document was
written after Floris soldiers wreaked
havoc in the small village. By way of
compensation, the inhabitants were
granted the ri ght to move goods
within the county of Holland without
paying fees.
1452 - The Great Fire
Around 1400, Amsterdam had grown
into a city of about 3000 inhabitants.
Since all of the houses were made
of wood and built right next to one
another, there was a constant threat
of fire. In 1452 a great fire broke out
that destroyed two thirds of the city.
As a consequence, it was decided
that houses should be built of stone. However, these heavy
houses sank into the boggy soil. To prevent this, long wooden
piles were subsequently used as foundations.
1482 - City Walls
Amsterdam was late in getting its own city walls. Prior to
this the citys residents had to make do with the occasional
defensive moat or earthen wall. The municipality eventually
decided to build walls for fear of looters from Gelderland and
Utrecht. Apart from the extra security provided by the wall, it
also showed outsiders that Amsterdam was an independent
community with its own governance.
1578 - Amsterdam becomes Protestant
After the beginning of the Dutch
revolt, Amsterdam remained loyal to
the Spanish king. However, Protes-
tant rebels led by William of Orange
ruled the area surrounding Catholic
Amsterdam. On 26 May 1578, a shift
took place that forced the Catholic
city council and the Catholic clergy
to leave the city. Amsterdam joined
the revolt and grew into an economic
superpower partly due to the arrival
of merchants from the southern Netherlands. Catholics would
build clandestine churches throughout the city.
1602 - Founding of the VOC
The Verenigde Oost-Indische Com-
pagnie (VOC or United East Indian
Company) is founded. Amsterdam is
the main partner in this multinational
commercial enterprise. For a long
time the VOC controls the lucrative
trade between Asia and Europe. In
the 17th and 18th centuries it is the largest trading company
in the world. In Asia the VOC acts as a representative of the
State-General. This first multinational is empowered to cre-
ate local governments in its colonies, to administer justice,
mint coins and to negotiate treaties with foreign powers.
1612 - Canal Construction
The strong growth of both Amster-
dams economy and its mushroom-
ing population causes overcrowding
and poor sanitation. In 1612 the
municipality decides to initiate the
first major expansion of the city. A
series of canals were constructed
to supply badly needed housing, docks and warehouses.
The world famous canals like Herengracht, Prinsengracht,
and Keizersgracht are dug around the old medieval city in
semicircles. The band of canals has been on the UNESCO
list world heritage list since 2010.
1620 - Construction of the Westerkerk
Reformed Protestantism becomes the most important re-
ligion in the Dutch Republic during the 17th-century Golden
Age. Catholic churches were converted, but new ones were
needed for the growing numbers of Protestants. The most
prominent of these new houses of worship is the Westerkerk.
When it was completed in 1631 it was the largest reformed
church in the world and the tallest building in the city at
nearly 84m.
1648 - Construction of the City Hall
The old Gothic city hall had become
too small for the largest centre of
trade in the world. The city council
commissioned Jacob van Campen
to design a new city hall, which would
refl ect Amsterdams expanded
power and glory. In 1648 construc-
tion began. To guarantee a stable
foundation, no less than 13,659 piles were driven into the
ground. Many artists were involved in decorating the clas-
sicist building, which was completed in 1665.
1808 - King Louis Napoleon Bonaparte
With help from the French Revolution-
ary Army, the Batavian Republic was
proclaimed in 1795, but Napoleon
Bonaparte had his own ideas and
put an end to the fledgling republic
i n 1806 and named hi s brother
Louis Napoleon King of Holland. The
king, who initially resided in Utrecht,
makes Amsterdam the capital and
the centre of his new government.
Ki ng Loui s Napol eon cl ai ms the
grand city hall as his own personal
residence on the Dam.
9
HISTORY
1864 - Palace of the People
Even in slightly backward Amster-
dam, signs of modernity slowly
seeped in. The new symbol of
the spirit of the age a building
for everyone was erected on
Frederiksplein, in large part due
to the efforts of Jewish physician
Samuel Sarphati. However, the building, which was inspired
by the Crystal Palace in London, burnt down in 1929.
1928 - Ol ympics in Amsterdam
In 1928, Amsterdam secures the
honour of hosti ng the Ol ympi c
Games. For some time Amsterdam
becomes the centre of the interna-
tional world of sports. It was a huge
success in the Netherlands generat-
ing great interest from the general
public and great accomplishments
by local athletes. The refurbished
Olympic Stadium is still the proud
symbol of this golden era.
1934 - Revol t in the Jordaan
In the 1930s the economic crisis
caused unprecedented unemploy-
ment in Amsterdam. This, in com-
bi nati on wi th harsh government
austerity measures caused a tense
atmosphere in the city. Eventually,
this combustible cocktail was ignited and desperate labour-
ers took to the streets in protest, which quickly led to fights
with the police. The situation escalated and the army was
brought in to restore order. During the five-day revolt, five
people were killed.
1940 - Persecution of the Jews
Soon after Nazi Germany invaded
the Netherlands, Jews became the
victims of the occupiers. Many Jews
were arrested and disappeared into
concentrati on camps. A general
strike was organised in Amsterdam
on 25 February 1941 in protest.
The February Strike was put down
violentl y and despi te this outcry,
most Jews in Amsterdam including Anne Frank did not
survive the war.
1945 - Hunger Winter
In the harsh winter of 1945 the food
supply to Amsterdam was nearly
completely cut off for fear of air raids
or commandeering by the German
occupyi ng forces. By the end of
September, the
shop shelves were already empty and
prices on the black market skyrock-
eted. The lack of food, combined with
the intense cold and lack of fuel, led
to desperate attempts to get supplies
from the countryside so called hunger
journeys as well as mass mortality
among Amsterdams residents.
1964 - Johan Cruijff and Ajax
Johan Cruij ff makes his dbut on
the first team of Ajax. With his club
he wi ns the European Cup fi nal
against the Greek side Panathinai-
kos in 1971. After his transfer to
FC Barcelona Cruij ff still celebrates
major successes, and to the Catalan
people he is known as El Salvador.
In 1974 the footballer, number 14,
manages to reach the World Cup
final, together with the Dutch team.
After a career as a football player
and trainer skinny Jopie is named European Football Player
of the 20th century.
1965 - Het Lieverdje and the Provos
The Provos movement started in
1965. These young anarchi sts
protested in playful ways against
what they considered to be narrow-
minded bourgeois society. These
provocateurs focused on issues like
the environment, womens eman-
cipation, changes in the arts and
free love. They frequently gathered
around the statue of Het Lieverdje
(the Sweetheart). On 13 May 1967,
the movement claimed victory and
disbanded. Its goal had been achieved: the authorities were
in complete disarray.
1980 - Squatters Riots
In the weeks leading up to the crowning of Princess Beatrix, a
variety of conflicts erupted between squatters in Amsterdam
and the police and tensions kept rising. The situation ex-
ploded on the day of the coronation, which resulted in one of
the worst riots in Dutch history. Squatters protested against
a lack of housing, unemployment and the royal coronation
and got into fights with the police.
1996 - Gay Pride
Gay Pride is the highlight of the year
for homosexual s i n Amsterdam.
During the first weekend of August,
a party is held in the inner city, where
parti ci pants show pri de i n thei r
sexual orientation. The highlight of
the week-long festivities is the pa-
rade on the canals, also called Canal
Pride. There are also many street
parties. Photo by T. Pouw
2000 - Development of Zuidas
The Zuidas (South Axis) is Amster-
dams fi nanci al and educati onal
centre located in the south of the
city. Although the 670-acre area is
still being developed, 400 compa-
nies and institutions have already
settl ed here i ncl udi ng the head
offices of various multinationals and a university. Housing,
shops, schools, theatres and museums will also become
an integral part of Zuidas, which has placed an emphasis
on sustainability and accessibility for all.
10
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
Jun
Date Time Event Venue
22 22:00 Klezmer. David Kweksilber plays
l yrical klezmer and classic Jewish
music. In honour of the Russian
traditional White Night. Tickets
12.50
PS
24 20:00 Pop/rock. Toto sings their
legendary hits. Tickets 49
HMH
24 20:30 Jazz. Farmers By Nature (USA).
Tickets 18
BH
24 20:30 Tango. Juan Carlos Tages
(vocals) and Wim Warman (piano)
featuring Christa Mieras (piano).
Warm and passionate tango.
Tickets 15
PM
24 22:30 House. HQ. Tickets 22.50 DM
24 23:00 Jazz. Susana Raya (Spain). Free
admission
MH
24 23:00 Dance hall. Mungos Hi Fi
featuring Kenny Knots (4 hour
set) on King Shiloh Sound.
Tickets 13
DM
25 16:00 Brazilian. Mrs. Smit and the Boys
from Brasil. Free admission
VP
25 19:00 Hiphop. Rick Ross + support.
Tickets 35
HMH
25 19:00 Neo-folk. Murder (Denmark).
Tickets 8.50
PA
25 20:30 Vocal. Manoeuvre (NL). This all
gay men's choir is famous for
its songs. From pieces from
the Eurovision Song festival to
golden oldies, these guys will
surel y move you
BA
25 22:00 Brazilian. Juliana Braga e
Convidados. Tickets 8
BC
26 15:00 Various. Dox Famil y Afternoon. A
melodious afternoon with Roos
Jonker, Benny Sings and Koffie.
Free admission
VP
26 20:15 Arabic. Fairouz. Known as the
angel from Lebanon, legendary
singer Fairouz is famous in the
Middle East and far beyond.
Tickets 35 - 125
TC
26 20:30 Post-hardcore. Boy Sets Fire
(USA). Tickets 16
DM
26 20:30 Brazilian Summer Sessions.
A documentary followed by
a concert by Roda de Baio e
Forr. Tickets 10
BH
27 20:00 Electro hiphop. Far East
Movement (USA). Tickets 16
DM
27 20:30 Americana. Ryan Bingham &
The Dead Horses (USA) plus
supporting artist Liam Gerner.
Tickets 16
DM
27 &
28
20:30 Pop/rock. Eels (USA). Tickets
32.50
PA
28 20:30 Hiphop. House of Pain. Tickets
32.50
DM
29 20:00 Indie. Destroyer (Canada)
Paradiso on location: Tolhuistuin.
Tickets 15
TT
30 20:30 Jazz. Summer Jazz Bigband
presents: Keep An Eye Summer
Jazz concert. Free admission
BH
Rock, folk, jazz & More
Clubs & Live music
Amsterdam Arena J-6, s-Gravesandestraat 51, tel.
(+31) 208 50 24 00, info@hotelarena.nl, www.hotelar-
enana.nl. Not to be confused with the Ajax football arena,
this multifunctional place houses a hotel, restaurant and caf
and also opens a couple of nights a week as a club in the
former St. Elisabeths Hospital.
Bitterzoet A-1, Spuistraat 2, tel. (+31) 204 21 23 18,
www.bitterzoet.nl. A big venue near the train station that
specialises in the rougher side of the music spectrum from
punk and hard rock to hip-hop.
De Badcuyp H-8, Eerste Sweelinckstraat 10, tel. (+31)
206 75 96 69, www.badcuyp.nl. New talent from the jazz
and world music scene play here every week.
Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590, tel. (+31)
900 68 74 24 2, info@heineken-music-hall.nl, www.
heineken-music-hall.nl. The Heineken Music Hall consists of
two big stages, but the larger one, nicknamed the Black Box,
is known throughout Europe for its great acoustic sound. Its
the onl y venue in the Netherlands thats designed especiall y
for amplified pop music and more than 600,000 music lovers
attend a broad range of concerts here every year.
Het Bimhuis H-3, Piet Heinkade 3, tel. (+31) 207 88 21
88, bimhuis.nl. The Bimhuis provides a unique perspective
on Dutch and international music with over 300 concerts each
year in a variety of genres from jazz to experimental music.
Melkweg E-8, Lijnbaansgracht 234a, tel. (+31) 205 31
81 81, info@melkweg.nl, www.melkweg.nl. Since 1970
Melkweg has been one of the best known cul tural centres in
the Netherlands. Five artistic disciplines are available under
one roof: music, dance/theatre, film, photography and media
art. Concerts, dance events, theatrical and dance perfor-
mances, films, festivals and photo exhibitions are staged in
five halls and several small rooms.
Paradiso F-8, Weteringschans 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 26
45 21, www.paradiso.nl. Up-and-coming bands play in the
small room while big names perform in the main hall of this
former church. Kings of Leon, The White Stripes and even
Lady Gaga have all played here.
Ballet & Opera
Het Muziektheater Amsterdam H-6, Waterlooplein
22, tel. (+31) 205 51 81 17, www.het-muziektheater.
nl. This fairl y modern building from 1986 is the home of
the Dutch National Ballet and The Netherlands Opera. The
architectural highlight of the Amsterdam Music Theatre is
its curved front faade that faces the Amstel River housing
14-metre-high open foyers.
Limp Bizkit will rock the Heineken Music Hall with their
combination of nu-metal and hihop on Jul y 7. You can
expect classic hits as well as songs from their new album
Gold Cobra
CULTURE & EVENTS
11
CULTURE & EVENTS
Jul
1 16:00 Jazz. Okabe Famil y. These
four musicians play incredibl y
energetic music. Their
performances are characterized
by hard solos and climaxes. Free
admission
VP
1 20:00 Rock. The Doors Alive. Tickets
22.50
DM
1 20:30 Eskesta. Ilil ta Band (Ethiopia).
Troubadours who use humour,
poetry and criticism to respond
to current events in their
homeland. Tickets 15
BH
1 23:00 Hiphop. Nosaj Thing (USA) @
Klinch. Tickets 13
DM
2 20:30 Brazilian Summer Sessions. A
documentary, concert by Luiz
Melodia and after that a Brazilian
party. Tickets 18
BH
2 24:00 Punk. Los de Abajo (Mexico)
followed by dance party with a
mix of Latin, rock, reggae and
pop. Tickets 9
DM
3 16:30 Pop. Go Back To The Zoo (NL).
Energetic music with a sharp
edge. Free admission
VP
4 20:30 Rock. TV on the Radio (USA).
Tickets 17
PA
5 21:00 Rap. Curren$y (USA). Tickets
17.50
DM
Rock, pop, jazz & More
6 20:30 Jazz. Archie Shepp Quartet.
Tickets 28
BH
7 20:00 Rock. Limp Bizkit. Tickets 45 HMH
7 20:30 Jazz. Eric Dolphy at The Five
Spot Revisited. Tickets 18
BH
8 20:30 Afrobeat. Dele Sosimis Afrobeat
Orchestra. Tickets 20
BH
9 16:00 Jazz. Magdalena Hahnkamper
Band. Free admission
VP
9 20:30 Folkpunk. The Pogues (Ireland).
See this iconic band while
Shane's still around. Tickets
47.50
DM
9 20:30 Pan-American jazz. Danilo Perez.
Tickets 22
BH
10 13:30 Percussion. Twitching Eye Trio
performs Trommel vuur. Tickets
17
CG
10 15:00 Fado. Daisy Correia Este meu
Fado. Free admission
VP
10 20:00 Pop. Ricky Martin. Tickets 56
- 75
HMH
10 20:00 Singer-songwriter. Lyle Lovett &
his acoustic group (USA). Tickets
36.50
DM
10 20:30 Trash-metal. Slayer (USA).
Tickets 52.50.
PA
10 20:30 Brazilian Summer Sessions. A
documentary, concert by Moinho
and after that a Brazilian party.
Tickets 8
BH
12
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
Aug
1 20:00 Gypsy-punk. Gogol Bordello
(USA). Tickets 21
DM
6 20:30 Pop. I Am Kloot (UK). Tickets 16 PA
6 21:00 Medieval. Corvus Corax
(Germany). Tickets 16
DM
6 21:00 Pop. Lucretia van der Vloot (NL).
Free admission
VP
7 16:30 Pop. Happy Camper (NL).
Combination of music and
animation. Pop songs, as
compact and melodious as can
be. Free admission
VP
8 20:30 Country/rock. The Jayhawks
(USA). Tickets 28
PA
9 20:30 Punk rock. Good Charlotte (USA)
Tickets 25
PA
10 20:15 World. Dulce Pontes (Portugal),
the uncrowned queen of fado.
Tickets 24 - 34
CG
12 20:15 World. Hugh Masekela (SA). The
personification of the musical
struggle against apartheid and
founder of the South African jazz
scene. Tickets 24 - 39
CG
13 16:00 Soul. Diggedyshweng (NL). This
funky band will ask you if you
dare to dig the Schweng. Find
out for yourself what that means!
Free admission
VP
14 15:00 Pop. Krystl (NL). Free admission VP
14 20:00 Thrash metal. Suicidal
Tendencies (USA). Tickets
22.50
DM
17 20:00 Indie. Paper Route (USA). Tickets
10
PA
19 22:30 Dabke. Omar Souleyman (Syria).
Tickets 19
PA
20 20:15 Soul. Edsila Rombley Back to
Motown. Tickets 24 - 34
GC
21 16:30 Pop. Waylon (NL). Free admission VP
23 20:15 Flamenco. Cadiz de la Frontera
(Spain). Tickets 24 -34
CG
23 20:30 Nu-metal. Deftones. These
godfathers of nu-metal need no
introduction. Tickets 32.50
PA
24 20:30 Folk/rock. The Avett Brothers.
Tickets 17
PA
29 20:00 Rock. Arcade Fire. Tickets 45 HMH
12 20:30 Rockabill y. Brian Setzer
Rockabill y Riot! featuring Slim
Jim. Tickets 46
PA
14 20:15 Tango. Kristjan Jrvis Absolute
Ensemble plays Abolute
Tango. Traditional tango, newly
composed tango, poptango,
modern, jazz, it doesnt matter.
As long as its challenging and
absolute tango. Tickets 24 - 34
CG
14 20:30 Reggae. Ziggy Marley. Tickets
28.50
DM
16 16:00 Jazz. Jula Aime. Free admission VP
16 21:00 Brazilian Summer Session.
Martnlia and A Hora do Brasil
Foundation. Tickets 16
BH
17 16:45 Traditional. To be Sung performs
Selamat to be Sung. Indonesian
compositions. Tickets 15
MG
17 22:30 Blues/rock. Pearl Handled
Revol ver (UK). Tickets 7.50
PA
18 19:30 Pop. Take That (UK). For the first
time in 16 years, this immensl y
popular boyband returns in their
original format. Tickets 50 - 95
AA
20 20:00 No-wave. Swans. Tickets 25 DM
23 20:15 Jazz/pop. Madeline Bell sings
Ray Charles. Tickets 21 - 29
CG
24 23:30 Dubstep. Rusko (UK). Tickets
16
PA
26
- 27
20:30 Soul. Erykah Badu (USA). Tickets
48
PA
28 20:30 Blues. Jonny Lang. Tickets 20 PA
29 19:30
&
21:30
Jazz/pop. Jef Neve Trio (BE)
Imaginary Road. Tickets 17
CG
30 16:00 Jazz. Bop This. Free admission VP
30 20:15 World. Afrocubism performs
Cuba meets Mali. A whirl wind
encounter between Cuba and
Africa, a combination that leads
to amazing summer music.
Tickets 34 - 57
CG
31 15:00 Pop. Dazzled Kid & friends.
Dazzled Kid presents his own
works and brings his friends/
favourite artists. Free admission
VP
Some hot band is al ways playing at Melkweg. Look out for
Eels, Far East Movement, the Pogues, House of Pain and
Suicidal Tendencies this summer
Watch the Julidans dance festival on Leidseplein from Jul y
1 - 10
CULTURE & EVENTS
13
CULTURE & EVENTS
AA Amsterdam Arena AB Amsterdamse Bos
AM Amsterdam Museum
AP Allard Pierson Museum
BA Betty Asfalt Complex BC De Badcuyp
BH Bimhuis BM Bijbels Museum
BP Beursplein CB Centrale Bibliotheek
CG Het Concertgebouw CM Cobra Museum
CT Het Compagnietheater DM De Melkweg
FA Foam Amsterdam FOZFOZ
HMH Heineken Music Hall HT Hermitage
JH Joods Historisch Museum
KK De Kleine Komedie LM De La Mar Theater
MA Het Muziektheater Amsterdam
MG Museum Geelvinck MH Mint Hotel
ML Martin Luther Kingpark
MT Amsterdams Marionetten Theater
MZ Muziekgebouw aan t IJ ND NDSM-werf
NK Sint Nicolaaskerk OD Oosterdok
OP Oosterpark PA Paradiso
PM Pianola Museum PS Portuguese Synagoge
RAI Amsterdam RAI RM Rijksmuseum
RS Rijksmuseum Schiphol SB Stadsschouwburg
SF Sugar Factory SL Sloterpark
SP Sloterplas SW Spaarnwoude
TB Theater Bellevue
TC Koninklijk Theater Carr
TH Theo Thijssen Museum TM Tropenmuseum
TR Tropen Theater TT Tolhuistuin
VM Verzetsmuseum
VP Vondelpark Openlucht Theater
WG Westergasfabriek
WH Museum Willet-Holthuysen
ZD Zeedijk
Venues
31 20:30 Reggae. Jimmy Cliff. He is one
of the heroes of the Jamaican
reggae scene and the last
surviving musician who received
the Order of Merit from the
Jamaican Government. Tickets
25
PA
Sep
1 20:30 Jazz. Tin Men and the Telephone.
Tickets 18
BH
2 20:00 World. Houda Saad (Morocco)
and Majid Al Mohandes (Iraq).
Tickets 40 - 100
CG
2 20:30 Jazz. Jeff Ballard Trio feat. Lionel
Loueke & Miguel Zenon. Tickets
22
BH
5 20:30 Death metal. Between The
Buried And Me + support
Animals As Leaders. Tickets 15
DM
7 20:30 Funk/soul/jazz. Maceo Parker
(USA). Tickets 25
PA
8 20:30 Indie/world. Beirut (USA). Tickets
22.50
PA
10 20:00 Reggae/ska. The Upsessions
(NL) cd presentation. Tickets 12
DM
15 21:00 Brazilian Summer Sessions. Trio
Madeira Brasil and A Hora do
Brasil Foundation, followed by a
Brazilian party. Tickets 16
BH
16 20:00 Death metal. Between The
Buried And Me + support
Animals As Leaders. Tickets 15
DM
16 20:15 Various. Ensemble Klang Music
at the edge of collapse. Tickets
20
MZ
18 20:30 Pop/jazz. Mayra Andrade (Cape
Verde). Tickets 27.50
PA
21 20:30 Pop. Brian Wilson. Brian Wilson
reimagines Gershwin and
performs his greatest hits.
Tickets 49.50
PA
Indie rockers Arcade Fire will perform at the Heineken
Music Hall on August 29. Photo by Anton Corbijn courtesy
of www.arcadefire.com
Classical music
Het Concertgebouw F-9, Concertgebouwplein 10, tel.
(+31) 206 71 83 45, kassa@concertgebouw.nl, www.
concertgebouw.nl. Since 1888 this beautifull y designed
archi tectural masterpiece has been the leading classical
concert hall in town.
Portuguese Synagoge H-5, Mr. Vissersplein 3, www.
portugesesynagoge.nl. One of the citys oldest synagogues
is currentl y being renovated but is still open to the public.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Concert halls
Amsterdam Music Theatre (Muziektheater Am-
sterdam) H-6, Waterlooplein 22, tel. (+31) 205 51 81
17, www.muziektheater.nl. This is the home of both the
Netherlands Opera and National Ballet. Watch world-class
performances here or take a tour of the place on Saturdays at
noon. Q Guided tour admission (Sat 12:00): 6. AK
Muziekgebouw aan t IJ H-3, Piet Heinkade 1, tel.
(+31) 207 88 20 00, www.muziekgebouw.nl. The
Muzi ekgebouw aan t IJ specialises in current musi cal
developments in the form of festivals, mul timedia concerts
and exhibitions.
Paradiso F-8, Weteringschans 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 26
45 21, www.paradiso.nl. Paradisos mission is to offer more
than just live music by exploring the borders of pop cul ture
and to be a stage for al ternative events and projects like
fashion shows, films and even science lectures. Still, most
people come here for the cool live bands.
14
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
Jun
22 20:00 Amsterdam Roots Festival. Inti
Illimani Histrico & Eva Aylln:
Cantos Latino de Amrica
Morena. Tickets 28
TR
23 20:00 Amsterdam Roots Festival.
Brazilian Caravan: Eta Carinae,
Rivotrill, Fim De Feira. Tickets 15
SF
21
- 25
18:30 Holland Festival. Tristan Sharps
Dreamthinkspeak (UK) performs
Before I Speak. Tickets 20
FOZ
24 Amsterdam Roots Festival. Imam
Baldi (GR). Two Greek brothers
combine various styles of music
to true global pop. Tickets 15
PA
25 19:30 Amsterdam Roots Festival.
Camaron: La Leyenda del Tiempo &
Manolito Y Su Trabuco. Tickets 30
DM
25
26
16:45 Geel vinck Chamber Music
Festival with The Amsterdam
Virtuosi. Tickets 15
MG
26 11:00
-
23:00
LatinVillage Festival. Europes
biggest Latin festival. Tickets
41.50
SW
26 13:00
-
22:00
Amsterdam Roots Festival:
Roots Open Air. Free admission
OP
23.06
-
01.07
ITs Festival. The latest crop
of performing artists will flood
the city of Amsterdam. Actors,
dancers, mimes, film directors
and other performing artists,
both national and international,
will make their first appearance
at several professional theatres
in the heart of Amsterdam. www.
itsfestivalamsterdam.com
24
- 26
Sloterplas Festival. The
Sloterplas Festival is dedicated
to bringing performers together
and developing talent in the area
throughout the year. Finall y, in
June, they will provide a chance
for up-and-coming artists to
perform on stage during the
festival. Free admission. Visit
www.sloterplasfestival.nl
SP
Jul
1 - 10 Julidans. Summer festival for
international comtemporary
dance. Julidans 2011 will take
place from 1 - 10 Jul y 2011
at the Stadsschouwburg
Amsterdam, Theater Bellevue,
Melkweg Theater, Paradiso,
Podium Mozaek, Vondelpark
Openluchttheater and Bijlmer
Parktheater. Visit www.julidans.nl
for more information
2 Derm Festival WG
2 - 3 11:00
-
20:00
Thailand Grand Festival. Just
a stones throw away from
Central Station, let yourself be
whisked off to terrific Thailand!
This popular festival features
traditional Thai music, arts and
crafts and of course, delicious
Thai food. Free admission
BP
Festivals
2 - 3 16:45 Geel vinck Chamber Music
Festival with The Amsterdam
Virtuosi. Tickets 15
MG
3 12:00 Sunday Market. Design, fashion,
antiques, kids stuff, paintings,
jewellery, ceramics and more
sold by local designers. Free
admission
WG
7 - 17 Over het IJ Festival. Over het
IJ is a summer festival in the
north part of Amsterdam. The
ferry takes you accross the river,
from the Cental Station to the
other side. Your first step, once
back on solid ground, takes you
right out of your dail y routine.
For eleven days you can enjoy
over 25 special performances at
several unusual locations. These
stages can be found around the
NDSM-werf on Overhoeks and
Amsterdam Central Station.
In addition to these unique
locations many of the acts will
onl y perform at the Over het IJ
Festival. Plenty of food and drink
can also be had at the festival.
Visit www.overhetij.nl for more
information
ND
8 - 17 Fashion Week DOWNTOWN.
The off-schedule programme
of the Amsterdam International
Fashion Week. Fashion Week
DOWNTOWN is the worlds first
Fashion Week programme that
is also open to the public. Enjoy
nine days of fashion excitement:
exhibitions, shows, launches,
parties and much, much more! All
the Fashion Week DOWNTOWN
events are all organised
in collaboration with local
museums, galleries, designers,
clubs and shops. Check www.
amsterdamfashionweek.com for
more details
9 12:00
-
23:30
World Record Picnic AB
9 - 10 9:00 Electronic. Pitch Festival.
Dedicated to progressive
electronic dance music.
Passepartout tickets 50
WG
13
- 17
Amsterdam International
Fashion Week. Check www.
amsterdamfashionweek.com for
more information
WG
15 Sunset Film Festival. Every Friday
until September 2. You can buy
tickets at the EYE Film Insitute
VP
23 11:00
-
23:00
Dance. A Day At The Park.
Various international DJs. Tickets
52.50
AB
30 12:00
-
23:00
Sundeck Festival. This festival
is all about dancing, chilling and
enjoying the finer things in life,
set to a soundtrack of soulful
jazz and funky deephouse, on
two huge ships!
ND
Festivals
CULTURE & EVENTS
15
CULTURE & EVENTS
The Gay Pride celebration will take place on Amsterdams
canals and streets beginning Jul y 30. Photo by T. Pouw
30.07
-
07.08
Amsterdam Gay Pride.
Amsterdam Gay Pride is the
largest gay celebration in the
Netherlands with a mul titude
of cul tural events, sporting
activities and parties. The
climax (excuse the pun) is an
extravagant and carnivalesque
boat parade through the
Amsterdam canals. Free
admission. For more information
visit www.weareproud.nl
Aug
5 Gay. Girlesque, Gay Pride
womens night. Onl y for girls and
gays. Check out www.girlesque.
nl for more information
PA
5 - 21 15:00
-
01:00
De Parade. The Parade is a fun
fair for theatre and music lovers.
Every summer this gigantic
group of artists tours the major
cities of the Netherlands. The
idea is fairl y simple: you pay 7
admission fee (free admission
before 16:00) and if you want
to visit any of the shows in one
of the many tents you pay a
few euros extra. Renowned
comedians and actors frequentl y
try out new material at this
festival. This may vary from
classic drama (in Dutch) to
performance art or dance, in
which case the language barrier
doesnt play a big role. This
year, the Gabber Opera sounds
quite interesting. It will provide
a nostalgic retrospect on the
world famous Dutch music
from the 1990s. The festival
area is paved with cafs and
restaurants, and is the place to
be for street theatre and other
entertainment. Even just hanging
out and having a chat with other
visitors will give you a night to
remember. For more information
visit www.deparade.nl
ML
6 12:00 Dance Valley. Large outdoor
dance festival.Tickets 69
SW
paintings, jewellery, ceramics
and more. Free admission
WG
8 - 14 Summer Dance Forever.
Workshops, dance battles,
performances and dance parties.
Passepartout ticket 220
PA
12
- 21
Grachtenfestival (Canal Festival).
The Grachtenfestival is the
annual festival with (classical)
music on special locations in
the centre of Amsterdam and
on the IJ banks. Every year new
locations are added. These
locations stand out because
of special or monumental
architecture and cul tural
and historical value. www.
grachtenfestival.nl
Festivals
13 11:00 Loveland Festival. Large outdoor
dance festival. Tickets 65
SL
12
- 14
12:00
-
18:00
Fantastic Amsterdam. Romans,
Cel ts, knights and highlanders
will give demonstrations,
including a jousting tournament.
There will also be a large
medieval market, music and
lots of activities for kids. Free
admission
AB
20
- 21
Hartjesdagen Zeedijk. These
Days of the Heart are famous
for an anything goes atmosphere
with Amsterdams gay
community taking a leading role.
Expect plenty of ostentatious
costumes and a good party
atmosphere. Free admission
ZD
26-28 Uitmarkt. The Uitmarkt is the
national opening of the cul tural
season and the largest cul tural
festival in the Netherlands. Over
the years, the Uitmarkt has
evol ved into a festival attracting
500,000 visitors and featuring
2,000 performers at more than
30 venues. And its all free! See
www.amsterdamsuitburo.nl
Sep
1 - 11 Nederlands Theater Festival
(Dutch Theatre Festival). The
best of Dutch and Flemish
theatre. Check www.tf.nl for
performances with English
subtitles.
1 - 11 Amsterdam Fringe Festival. The
festival will feature politicall y
kinetic theatre, sweet-voiced
punk, poetic rock violence,
self-torturing quests for
honesty, inside-out migration
theatre, international gems and
uninhibited love. Performers from
the Netherlands and Flanders as
well as New York, South Africa,
Prague and Poland. Visit www.
amsterdamfringefestival.nl
paintings, jewellery, ceramics
and more. Free admission
WG
Festivals
16
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
Jun
21
- 25
20:15 Dance. The Dutch National
Ballet performs two new works
by choreographers Sidi Larbi
Cherkaoui and David Dawson.
World premiere. Tickets 16 - 40
MA
23 20:15 Dance. The Dutch National Ballet
performs New Moves 2011.
Tickets 15
MA
24 20:00 Musical. Fela! The true story of
the legendary Nigerian musician
Fela Kuti, whose soulful Afrobeat
rhythms ignited a generation.
Tickets 29 - 63
TC
24
- 26
20:30 Theatre. Debra Warner plays
The School for Scandal. A stellar
cast, a hilarious satire, a critical
view on Dutch society. Tickets
16 - 36
SB
25 14:00 Dance. The Dutch National Ballet
performs New Moves 2011.
Tickets 15
MA
29
- 30
20:00 Ballroom/Latin. Burn the Floor.
Tickets 21 - 50
TC
Jul
1 - 2 21:00 Ballet. Neuer Tanz performs Ich
sah: das Lamm auf dem Berg
Zion. Tickets 30 - 35
SB
1 - 10 14:00
19:00
20:00
Ballroom/Latin. Burn the Floor.
Tickets 21 - 50
TC
2 - 3 20:30 Modern dance. Erna Omarsdottir
performs Teach Us To Outgrow
Our Madness. Tickets 20 - 22
TB
3 - 4 20:30 Ballet. Lia Rodrigues (Brazil)
performs Pororoca. In Pororoca,
choreographer Lia Rodrigues
evokes the ground swell of the
Amazon River, depicted by her
eleven dancers. Tickets 11 - 30
SB
3 - 4 22:00 Modern dance. Alexandra
Bachzetsis (CH) performs A
Piece Danced Alone. Contrary
to the title of the choreography,
Alexandra dances with her
mirror image Anne Pajunen.
Tickets 17.50
SB
5 - 6 20:30 Contemporary dance. Danse
lAfrique Danse! Performance
by the winners of the African
Contemporary Dance Festival.
Tickets 22.50
TB
5 - 10 20:15 Cabaret. Ennio Marchetto. Mix
of cabaret and show starring his
homemade paper costumes.
Tickets 18 - 28
LM
7 - 10 15:00
20:00
Acrobatics. Soap. Water,
bathtubs and acrobatics. Tickets
23 - 33
LM
8 - 9 20:30 Dance. Sidi Larbi (MA/BE) and
Gregory Makoma & Shanell
Winlock (ZA) dance Southern
Bound Comfort. Tickets 11 - 30
SB
9 - 10 21:00 Modern dance. Maguy Marin
(France) performs Sal ves.
Politicall y active, creative and
sharp. Tickets 30 - 35
SB
Ballet, dance & Theatre
12
- 24
15:00
17:00
20:00
20:30
International rhythmic total
theatre. Stomp. Tickets 32 - 46
LM
Aug
16
- 31
20:30 Theatre. Orkater (NL) performs
Richard III. Shakespeares
portrait of a ruthless career
man, oozing charm, lusting for
power. English subtitles. Tickets
20 - 37
SB
Sep
1 20:30 Theatre. Orkater (NL) performs
Richard III. Shakespeares
portrait of a ruthless career
man, oozing charm, lusting for
power. English subtitles. Tickets
20 - 37
SB
Ballet, dance & Theatre
Festivals & Special events
Beursplein A-2, Beursplein. The outdoor Beursplein
square is frequentl y used for various events like the annual
art fair and the Thai Market, but also for political demonstra-
tions and musical events.
Martin Luther KingPark Martin Luther KingPark. The
spacious Martin Luther Kingpark hosts the travelling Parade
Festival each year.
NDSM-werf M-2, tt Neveritaweg 61, ndsm.nl. The NDSM
is one of Amsterdams cultural hot spots. This former shipyard
on the IJ in Amsterdam North is a unique location that has
been developed into a cul tural venue for innovative perform-
ing arts, festivals, visual arts and new media. Exhibitions,
experimental performances and international dance events
are also standard fare at NDSM-werf.
Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam H-3, Oosterdoks-
kade 143, tel. (+31) 205 23 09 00, www.oba.nl. In addi-
tion to its general collection of books, the Amsterdam Public
Library has a stage for different cul tural performances.
Sloterpark President Allendelaan. Sl oterpark near
the Sloterplas is the ideal location for the annual Loveland
Festival.
Spaarnwoude Spaarnwoude, www.spaarnwoude.nl.
Awakenings, Dance Valley, Dutch Valley and Latin Village are
just a few of the summer festivals that take place at this
recreation park.
Tolhuistuin N-2, Buiksloterweg 5a, tel. (+31) 204 86
26 35, www.tolhuistuin.nl. The Tolhuistuin is a unique
garden venue in Amsterdam Noord for music, performance
art, dance, film and other cul tural endeavours.
Westergasfabriek N-1, Polonceaukade 27, tel. (+31)
205 86 07 10, www.westergasfabriek.nl. At the end of
the 19th century the Imperial Continental Gas Association
(ICGA) built two coal gas factory complexes in Amsterdam. By
the time the factory shut down, the site was heavil y polluted,
making it difficul t to find a new purpose for the area. In 1992,
the buildings were used temporaril y for creative and cul tural
activities and now the Westergasfabriek and the surrounding
park are an asset for the whole community. Creative entre-
preneurs work in the renovated historic buildings and many
high-profile events and festivals are held here.
Zeedijk B-1, Zeedijk, www.zeedijk.nl. The Zeedijk is
one of the ci tys most historic streets and also home to
Amsterdams Chinatown. Chinese New Year and Buddha Day
are some of the more popular festivals held here.
CULTURE & EVENTS
17
CULTURE & EVENTS
Exhibition Venue
The Triumph of Identity. Exhibition dedicated to the Es-
terrolls by 17th century engraver Salom Italia. Tickets 9.
On display until 03.07. Open 11:00 - 17:00 JH
Kiefer & Rembrandt. One of Germanys most important
and famous artists, Anselm Kiefer, was invited by the
Rijksmuseum to create a work to be hung facing Rem-
brandts Nachtwacht. The museum gave him all artistic
freedom to create whatever he wanted. La Berceuse
is the result. Tickets 12. On display until 04.07. Open
09:00 -18:00 RM
ROOD (red). In almost all cultures red is a significant co-
lour. Over 300 objects stimulate all your senses. Tickets
9. On display until 31.07. Open 10:00 - 17:00 TM
Trespassing - Secrets of Egyptian Temples. Access
to the temple was reserved exclusively for the priests,
and off limits to ordinary people. Up until today that is,
because you can now see for yourself what an ancient
Egyptian temple looks and feels like. Tickets 6.50. On
display until 14.08. Open 10:00 - 17:00 AP
Brak. About the inevitable salinization of the Dutch soil.
On the island in the Oosterdok a salty garden is built for
marine food production. Free admission. Closed Mon,
Sun. On display until 17.08. 13:00 - 17:00 OD
Annie M.G. Schmidt 100 years - Jip and Janneke cel-
ebrate. Learn more about Jip and Janneke, their creator
Annie M.G. Schmidt and cartoonist Fiep Westendorp
who brought them to life with her drawings. Tickets 5.
On display until 24.08. Open 10:00 - 22:00 CB
Poepgoed (good shit). The title says it all! This exhibi-
tion on animals and humans is all about their behaviour
when it comes to the one thing that makes us equal.
Come have a sniff at the Information Centre! Free admis-
sion. On display until 31.08. Open 12:00 - 17:00 AB
Anton Corbijn. Inwards and Onwards. Anton Corbijn once
declared his interest in portraying the pain of creation
and the people who struggle with that process. Foam
proudly presents Anton Corbijns latest photographic
series devoted to some of the most renowned artists
of today. Tickets 8. On display until 01.09. Open 10:00
- 18:00 FA
Dutch Flowers. Nine 17th-century exuberant bouquets
from the collection of the Rijksmuseum brighten up
Schiphol Airport. Free admission. On display until 05.09
RS
Splendour and Glory. Art of the Russian Orthodox
Church. Tickets 15. On display until 16.09. Open 10:00
- 17:00 HT
Alexander van Slobbe presents creations inspired
by paintings of 16th and 17th century clothing, made by
young Dutch and Chinese fashion designers. Tickets 10.
On display until 18.09. Open 11:00 - 17:00 AM
Jacques Doucet. Le Cobra Franais. For the first time
an international retrospective exhibition is dedicated to
the work of the French avant-garde artist Jacques Doucet
(1924 - 1994). Tickets 9.50. On display until 18.09.
Open 11:00 - 17:00 CM
Outdoor exhibition Cool Globes. Painted globes by
Dutch and international artists as a passionate plea for a
cooler Earth. On display until 30.09 WG
Wally van Hall - banker of the resistance. Wally van
Hall led an underground bank during WWII that supported
resistance activities. This exhibition tells the exciting and
almost forgotten story of a true hero. Tickets 7.50. Open
11:00 - 17:00 VM
Exhibitions
Indonesia Home - precious traces of a colonial past. An
exhibition that delves into Hollands colonial past. Not just
in museums but in many aspects of Dutch culture there
is still a recognizable Indonesian background. Tickets 8.
Open 11:00 - 17:00 MG
Rembrandt and Degas. That the famous French Impres-
sionist artist Edgar Degas (1834 - 1917) was inspired by
Rembrandt is well known, but this is the first exhibition
devoted to Rembrandts influence on Degas. Tickets 12.
Open 09:00 - 18:00 RM
Soulscape Road. Black and white photography by the
Indonesian photographer Oscar Motuloh. In almost ab-
stract black and white images, he shows the emptiness
after the disaster. Man is conspicuous by its absence, the
landscape is desolate and destroyed. Tickets 9. Open
10:00 - 17:00 TM
Jordanese Buurtwinkels. Find out how local conve-
nience stores in the Jordaan-quarter evolved from the
1850s until today. Tickets 3. Open Thu - Sun 12:00
- 17:00 TH
During the rebuilding and renovation of the Rijksmuseum,
the finest works from the 17th century will continue to be
on display in the redesigned Philips Wing. Rijksmuseum,
The Masterpieces offers the unique opportunity to view
all the highlights of the Golden Age in one place. The
famous dolls houses, the finest Delftware, a wealth of
silver, icons of Dutch history and of course the paintings
by the great 17th-century masters Frans Hals, Jan Steen,
Vermeer and Rembrandt tell the story of the Golden Age.
Open 09:00 - 18:00 RM
Exhibitions (continued)
Tickets
Tickets for events such as musical concerts, sports, the
arts, theatre, family outings and festivals are best bought
at the venue itself or at TicketMaster (www.ticketmaster.nl)
outlets. You can buy tickets by phone or pick up reserved
tickets from selected VVV Outlets, TicketShops and Free
Record Shops.
TicketShops: Amsterdams Uitburo, Leidseplein 26; Concer-
to, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60; Fame Music Store, Kalverstraat
2 - 4: Pico Records, Bijlmerplein 520
Free Record Shops: 1e v Swindenstraat 43; Bijlmerplein
992; Ferdinand Bolstraat 79; Kalverstraat 32; Nieuwendijk
229; Osdorpplein 390; CS (Kiosk) Stationsplein 15.
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18
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
Jun
21 11:00 Classical. Itzel Trejo Medecigo
and Stefan Donner. Vocals and
piano. Tickets 5
CB
21 20:30 Modern opera. Richard Ayres The
Cricket Recovers performed by
VocaalLAB Nederland. Tickets 29
CT
22 13:30 Classical. Michael Hedley plays
German romance music. Free
admission
NK
22 20:00 Opera. De Nederlandse Opera
performs Dionysos. Tickets 75
WG
performs Tchaikovskys Eugene
Onegin. Tickets 15 - 110
MA
23 20:15 Classical. Sweelinckorchestra
performs Mahler and Brahms.
Tickets 17 - 20
CG
25 20:15 Classical. Johanan Havinga
(piano) and Gea Passies
(soprano) present ABSINT, a
programme dedicated to the
French composer Erik Satie.
Tickets 12.50
PM
MA
26 14:15 Classical. Musica Amphion plays
Vivaldi and Pergolesis Stabat
Mater. Tickets 39.50 - 49.50
CG
MA
Classical & Opera
28 20:30 Opera. Nationale Reisopera
performs La Bohme by
Giacomo Puccini. The four totall y
different characters in this tragic
love story turn this masterpiece
into a kind of vocal symphony in
four parts. Tickets 25 - 57.50
SB
29 13:30 Classical. Michael Hedley plays
Bach on a Wilhelm Sauer organ.
Free admission
NK
30 20:00 Classical. Jaques Thibaud
Ensemble. Tickets 12.50
PS
Jul
MA
1 20:15 Classical. Enrico Pace performs
Liszt, Schumann and Berlioz.
Tickets 24 - 34
CG
3 12:00 Classical. Clarinetist Mor Levin
plays Mozart, Schubert and
Franciax. Free admission
VP
3 19:30 Classical. La Venexiana performs
Monteverdis Il Ritorno dUlisse in
Patria. Tickets 34 - 57
CG
MA
4 20:15 Classical. European Brandenburg
Ensemble performs Bach, Purcell
and Hndel. Tickets 24 - 34
CG
5 19:30 Opera. Opera Zuid performs
Gaetano Donizettis lElisir
dAmore. In a small Italian village,
the insecure farm boy Nemorino
is not able to make the beautiful
and weal thy Adina fall for him.
So when a stranger starts to
make a move on her, he changes
his plans. Nemorino looks for a
solution: a love potion! Sung in
Italian, Dutch subtitles. Tickets
21 - 45
CG
MA
Classical & Opera
Theatre & Music
Amsterdamse Bos De Duizendmeterweg 7, Am-
stelveen, tel. (+31) 206 43 32 86, info@bostheater.nl,
www.bostheater.nl. This outdoor theatre has hosted more
than 40 shows each summer since 1985. It can accommo-
date up to 1500 music lovers and theatre-goers.
Betty Asfalt Complex A-3, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal
282, tel. (+31) 206 26 46 95, www.bettyasfalt.nl. De-
spite its decidedl y industrial name, Betty Asphal t Complex
offers onl y 115 cosy seats for anyone whod like to watch big
names in the world of cabaret, music and theatre perform.
Carre I-7, Amstel 115, www.theatercarre.nl. In 1993
a large renovation transformed Carr from a circus with a
small capacity to a large theatre. Ballet and musicals are its
main attractions today as well as one man shows in Dutch.
Open also in summer.
Compagnietheater Kloveniersburgwal 50, tel. (+31)
205 20 53 20, kantoor@compagnietheater.nl, www.
compagnietheater.nl. From 1793 - 1995 this beauti ful
building was used as a church, but now i ts home to a
modern theatre.
De La Mar Theater F-8, Marnixstraat 402, tel. (+31)
900 33 52 62 7, delamar.nl. The newest theatre in Am-
sterdam has two different halls and the larger one can host
up to 1500 people.
FOZ-Gebouw E-8, Gustav Mahlerlaan 300.
Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam F-8, Leidseplein 26,
tel. (+31) 206 24 23 11, info@ssba.nl, www.ssba.nl.
Since 1894 culture lovers have enjoyed theatre performances
and concerts in the baroque Great Hall and more recentl y in
the Rabohall of Stadsschouwburg Amsterdam.
Sugar Factory F-7, Lijnbaansgracht 238, www.
sugarfactory.nl. Sugar Factory calls itself a cutting-edge
mul ti-disciplinary night theatre, so find out for yoursel f if
theyre exaggerating or telling the truth. Good for live bands
and hot international DJs.
Theater Bellevue F-8, Leidsekade 90, tel. (+31) 205
30 53 01, www.theaterbellevue.nl. Formerl y known as
the place for famous Dutch politicians to give speeches, its
now a theatre with a big and a small hall.
Tropentheater K-5, Linnaeusstraat 2, tel. (+31) 205
68 85 00, theaterkassa@kit.nl, www.tropentheater.nl.
Located in the same building as the Tropenmuseum (Tropi-
cal Museum), its no surprise that this theatre specialises
in music, dance, theatre and films from the tropical regions
of the earth.
Vondelpark Openluchttheater E-9, Vondelpark,
www.openluchttheater.nl. Every big ci ty has a famous
park like Hyde Park in London or Central Park in New York.
For Amsterdams residents its definitel y the Vondelpark and
every summer its open-air stage hosts dozens of acts from
dance and jazz to stand up comedy and cabaret.
CULTURE & EVENTS
19
CULTURE & EVENTS
9 20:15 Classical. Summer concert by
the VU Orchestra. Students of
the Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam
performs works by Tchaikovsky
and Szymanowski. This
amateur symphony orchestra
is considered to be one of the
biggest and best in Holland.
Tickets 20
MZ
10 12:30 Classical. Combattimento
Consort Amsterdam. Free
admission.
VP
MA
12 20:15 Classical. Orchestre de la Suisse
Romande plays Bohemien
Postcards. Works from Brahms
and Dvok. Tickets 24 - 34
CG
17 12:30 Classical. Reijseger Fraanje Sylla.
Free admission
VP
21 20:15 Classical. Orchestre
Philharmonique de Lige Wallonie
Bruxelles performs Bolro and
other French masterpieces.
Tickets 24 - 34
CG
22 20:15 Classical. Orchestre
Philharmonique de Lige Wallonie
Bruxelles performs La Douce
France. Tickets 24 - 34
CG
24 12:30 Classical. Ricciotti Ensemble.
A street symphony orchestra
of 40 young and enthusiastic
musicians who perform for
people who usuall y dont get in
contact with classical music,
such as hospital patients and
prison inmates. Free admission
VP
27 20:15 Classical. Rheinische Kantorei
performs J.S. Bachs Hohe
Messe. Tickets 24 - 34
CG
28 20:15 Classical. David Garret plays
Brahms, Mozart and Beethoven,
accompanied by Julien Quentin
on piano. Tickets 24 -34
CG
31 12:00 Classical. Rosemary Carl ton-
Willis (soprano) and Itay Bainer
(piano) perform 19th century
German romantics. Free
admission
VP
Aug
7 12:30 Classical. The Four Baritones.
Free admission
VP
8 20:15 Opera. The NJO Orchestra and
Dutch National Opera Academy
perform Rossinis Il Signor
Bruschino. Tickets 21 - 29
CG
14 12:30 Classical. Ties Mellema, En
Accord and Wilmar de Visser
perform works by Prince,
recomposed for sax and strings.
Free admission
VP
21 14:00 Classical music for kids. The
Dutch Philharmonic Orchestra
plays Peter and the Wolf.
Including shadow performances
with dolls. Tickets 17
CG
Classical & Opera
De Nederlandse Opera will perform Christoph Willibald
Glucks Iphignie and Aulide & Iphignie and Tauride in
September. Photo by Bernd Uhlig
28 11:00 Classical. The Cory Band plays
The Sound of World Class
Brass. Tickets 15 - 35
CG
Sep
3 11:00 Classical. Bartk Marathon
performed by the Keller Quartet.
The passe-partout gives you
admission to all three concerts
on this date. Passe-partout
ticket 48
MZ
6 20:15 Classical. Murray Perahia (UK)
plays works from Haydn and
Mozart. Tickets 28 - 95
CG
7 13:30
&
18:30
Opera. De Nederlandse Opera
performs Christoph Willibald
Glucks Iphignie and Aulide &
Iphignie and Tauride
MA
MA
10 20:15 Classical. Het Brabants Orkest
performs live while Charlie
Chaplins monumental movie
Modern Times is playing. Tickets
26
MZ
MA
MA
MA
20 20:15 Classical. Karina Gauvin
(CA) sings various songs,
accompanied by Maciej Pikulski
on piano. Tickets 50
CG
Classical & Opera
More events and venues at
20
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
C Swimming pool H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre U Facilities for the disabled
6 Pets allowed L Guarded parking
K Restaurant D Sauna
W Free wireless internet
Symbol key
More hotels at
If you dont mind spending over 250 a night for a room
then you can probably just skip this introduction, but if
youre not travelling on an expense account or your last
name isnt Gates or Abramovich then the following infor-
mation might be useful. Finding affordable accommoda-
tion in Amsterdam can be extremely difficult and takes
planning, patience and a bit of luck. Youre best bet is to
book well in advance to get a decent rate. If this isnt an
option and youve arrived on the spur of the moment then
during the week we recommend you leave your baggage at
the station and take a look at some of the nearby three-
stars, which vary enormously in style and price. Youll no
doubt save a bundle and youll get to see the room before
you commit to a price. Hostels dont do much discounting
for walk-ins so you might want to book ahead. Prices listed
here are general rack rates and are subject to change.
Cream of the crop
Hotel Okura Amsterdam H-10, Ferdinand Bolstraat
333, tel. (+31) 206 78 71 11, www.okura.nl. If luxury is
a necessity, but accommodation in the heart of city centre
isnt, then this five-star 23-floor hotel might just be the place
for you. Its Japanese owners have created a majestic set-
ting in which to eat, sleep, shop and relax employing some
of the citys finest designers to achieve this goal. All rooms
are tastefull y decorated and include every modern amenity
you could possibl y imagine as well as a few surprises like
Nespresso machines. Recentl y renovated rooms also boast
so-called open bathrooms wi th glass walls and rainforest
showerheads. Four restaurants are at your disposal, includ-
ing two with Michelin stars, as well as two bars, a wellness
centre with an 18m swimming pool, a shopping floor and
conference facilities. Q 301 rooms (85 standard from 250,
80 superior from 280, 56 deluxe from 295, 59 executive
from 445, 12 junior suites from 330, 9 suites from 1050).
PHAUFLKDCW
NH Barbizon Palace B-1, Prins Hendrikkade 59 - 72,
tel. (+31) 205 56 45 64, www.nh-hotels.com. The Barbi-
zon Palace began its existence over 100 years ago when 19
historic buildings were converted into elegant accommoda-
tion. In fact, walking through its maze of hallways one can even
see the brick partitions indicating where one building ends
and the next begins. Due to its unique construction, some
rooms make use of their ancient timbers and floors, while
others have a more contemporary feel and the executive floor
has been recentl y renovated for guests that require a more
modern, minimalist dcor. Two restaurants and a conference
hall in a converted 15th-century chapel are also available.
Q274 rooms (suites 413 - 459, 11 apartments, standard
143 - 159, deluxe 192 - 214, junior suites 323 - 359).
PHARUFGKDW
NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky A-2, Dam 9, tel. (+31)
205 54 91 11, www.nh-hotels.com. What began in the 19th
century as a coffee house on the Warmoesstraat expanded
over time into the massive hotel you see now on the Dam. Due
to its age and historic significance, the Krasnapolsky hasnt
conformed to the modern NH hotel group style and many of
its 468 rooms have retained some elements of their old world
elegance. That said, most of the accommodation includes
huge flat screen TVs and king size beds and the rooms in the
new wing have a more contemporary look. The hotel also of-
fers restaurants and bars, fitness and business centres, ice
machines on each floor and valet parking and you can also have
breakfast in the spectacular Winter Garden atrium where Dutch
royalty have held their wedding receptions. Q 468 rooms (426
deluxe and executive, 6 junior suites, 1 suite, 35 apartments).
PJHAUFLKD
Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel A-1, Kattengat 1,
tel. (+31) 206 21 22 23, fax (+31) 206 27 52 45, www.
marriott.com. This luxurious five-star hotel, which is part of
the Marriott group, offers over 400 modern, tastefull y deco-
rated rooms in the city centre only a five-minute walk from the
Central Station. Spread out over several buildings, the hotel
was completel y renovated in 2009 and its accommodation
includes all of the amenities one would expect from a five-
star hotel including king size beds, wireless internet access,
climate control, large flat screen TVs and a few extras like
bathrobes, slippers and fresh fruit. A Mediterranean restau-
rant, a traditional brown caf and a hip cocktail bar are also
at your disposal as well as a heal th club and a conference
centre located in a converted Lutheran church across the
street that dates back to 1668. Q 402 rooms (deluxe from
269, club level from 329, junior suites from 409, royal
suites avalaible). PJHAUFLGKDW
Upmarket
Amsterdam Marriott Hotel F-8, Stadhouderskade
12, tel. (+31) 206 07 55 55, www.amsterdammarriott.
com. This massi ve hotel located between the Museum
district and popular Leidseplein offers nearl y 400 rooms
on 11 floors. Standard rooms are decorated in yellow and
maroon colours and provide king size beds, huge flat screen
TVs, internet access, phone, safe, mini-bar, wri ting desks
and private bathrooms with bathtubs. Executive rooms are
a bit more spacious and buy you access to the Executive
Lounge where you can enjoy a complimentary breakfast, a
cocktail and great views. Conference rooms and a 24-hour
heal th club are also available as well as an upmarket steak-
house, an international restaurant and a bar. Q 393 rooms
(standard doubles from 149, executive rooms from 284,
suites from 349). Breakfast not included for standard rooms.
PHARUFLGKD
NH Amsterdam Centre F-5, Stadhouderskade 7, tel.
(+31) 206 85 13 51, www.nh-hotels.com. This four-star
hotel is an excellent choice for its stylish, yet comfortable
rooms and its location between the citys best museums
and bustling Leidsplein. Standard rooms are hardl y standard
and include king size beds, dark hardwood floors, cable TV
with internet access, climate control and private bathrooms.
Superior rooms and suites are similar in style but offer much
more space and a few added amenities. A caf, Italian res-
taurant, conference centre, spa facilities and a private patio
garden are also available to guests, not to mention a pillow
menu. Yes, you can choose your own pillow at NH hotels! Q
230 rooms (suites 380 - 419, standard 109 - 119, superior
140 - 154). PHARUFGKDW
WHERE TO STAY
21
WHERE TO STAY
NH Caransa B-3, Rembrandtplein 19, tel. (+31)
205 54 08 00, fax (+31) 206 22 27 73, nhcaransa@
nh-hotels.com, www.nh-hotels.com. Yet another mem-
ber of the NH chain of hotels, the Caransa offers a great
location on Rembrandt Square and 66 rooms decorated
in a modern fashion wi th four-star ameni ties like wireless
internet, satelli te TV, coffee maker, safe, mini-bar and posh
toiletries by Agua de la Tierra. Al though the hotel doesnt
have i ts own restaurant, guests can take advantage of the
Brasserie Schiller across the square at another NH hotel.
The Caransa also has a pill ow menu, whi ch can make
all the di fference when sleeping in a foreign bed. Q 66
rooms (standard rooms from 129, superior rooms from
159). PARW
NH Schiller Hotel B-3, Rembrandtplein 26, tel. (+31)
205 54 07 00, fax (+31) 206 24 00 98, nhschiller@
nh-hotels.com, www.nh-hotels.com. Not onl y does this
four-star hotel have an excellent location on Rembrandtplein
near restaurants, clubs and bars, but i ts also a famous
building from 1912 steeped in history. The reception area is
bursting with old world elegance in the form of stained glass
windows, wood panelling, famous paintings by Friedrich Schil-
ler and Art Deco elements. All rooms are tastefully decorated
in the modern NH Hotel style and include flat screen TVs,
mini-bar, safe and sweets on the pillow. Unfortunatel y, you
have to pay for wi-fi, but the view from your balcony might
just make you put your laptop away. Q 92 rooms (standard
from 129, superior from 159, junior sui tes from 199).
PHARUGKW
Park Hotel Amsterdam F-5, Stadhouderskade 25,
tel. (+31) 206 71 12 22, fax (+31) 206 64 94 55, info@
parkhotel.nl, www.parkhotel.nl. Located near the citys
best museums, this stylish four-star hotel was completel y
renovated in 2008 and recentl y named the Netherlands
best business hotel. Modern design is already evident in
the lobby also know as the Living Room where you can relax
with a drink by a huge open fireplace or next to the library.
Superior rooms are decorated in subtle greys, whites and
blacks and include a piece of art by a Dutch designer as well
amenities like Nespresso machines and iPod docking stations
and open-concept bathrooms with rainforest showerheads.
Even more luxurious executive, bridal and split-level suites
with kitchenettes are also available as well as a hip Asian
restaurant, a 24-hour fitness centre and conference rooms.
Q 189 rooms (superior doubles 129 - 149, executi ve
doubles 169 - 189, junior suites 209 - 229, bridal suite
369 - 389, split level suites 289 - 309, executive suites
369 - 389). PHAUFGKW
Boutique hotels
Hotel Roemer E-8, Roemer Visscherstraat 10, tel.
(+31) 205 89 08 00, fax (+31) 205 89 08 01, www.
vondelhotels.com. If we were incredibly wealthy, we wouldnt
buy an apartment in Amsterdam. We would just move into
the Hotel Roemer, a four-star boutique hotel with a personal
approach to all of its guests. Spread out over two renovated
mansions in the Museum District, this place is cosy and
warm, yet also stylish and luxurious. In three of the rooms
youll have to make do with rainforest showers, but all others
have their own private Jacuzzis and if youd like a drink, dont
bother looking for a mini-bar. Just pour yourself a cocktail
from the full y stocked bar, which is included in the price. An
iPod docking station, Nespresso machine, wi-fi and TV with
DVD player are also standard amenities here and a cottage
is available in the Zen-like garden behind the hotel. Q 23
rooms (doubles from 180, executive from 210, junior suites
from 280). PAGW
Hotel Sint Nicholaas A-1, Spuistraat 1a, tel. (+31)
206 26 13 84, fax (+31) 206 23 09 79, www.hotelnico-
laas.nl. Al though this unique circular, tower-like building was
once used as the Amsterdam harbour office in the 18th and
19th centuries, i t now houses an excellent, yet affordable
design hotel a 3-minute walk from the Central Station. The
bar/reception area wi th i ts huge fireplace, fresh flowers
and modern, but cosy furnishings including laptop stations
for busy or bored guests will no doubt dazzle you and i ts
rooms, each designed in a di fferent fashion, range in style
from downright funky to sober minimalism. The staff are
ul tra-friendl y and can help you wi th just about anything.
Q27 rooms (singles 99 - 125, doubles 114 - 167, triples
164, quads 164). PAIW
Hotel Vondel E-8, Vondelstraat 26, tel. (+31) 206 12
01 20, fax (+31) 206 85 43 21, www.vondelhotels.
com. This fantasti c bouti que hotel l ocated in a qui et
Museum district neighbourhood is an excellent choice for
anyone who requires accommodation wi th cutting-edge
design. A unique blend of new and antique, European and
Asian, Hotel Vondel offers four-star rooms wi th every imag-
inable ameni ty including flat screen TVs, wireless internet,
iPod speakers and mini-bars as well as indi viduall y designed
interiors and pri vate natural stone bathrooms wi th walk-in
rainforest showers and/or bathtubs. A private garden is also
at you disposal as well as a trendy lounge and restaurant.
Q86 rooms (singles 85 - 120, doubles 90 - 130, triples
160 - 195, sui tes 380, executi ve rooms 115 - 165).
PHAGKW
The Toren Amsterdam E-5, Keizersgracht 164, tel.
(+31) 206 22 60 33, fax (+31) 206 26 97 05, www.
thetoren.nl. I ts motto designed to charm isnt an exag-
geration. The famil y-owned Toren is a stylish design hotel
housed in an earl y 17th-century building that served as both
a university and a safe house for Dutch resistance fighters
during WWII. Today, you can choose from 38 unique rooms
that include cutting-edge dcor as well as four-star ameni-
ties like flat screen TVs, wireless internet access, phone,
mini-bar and private bathrooms. A few perks like Nespresso
machines, iPod alarm clocks and great canal views are also
included in the price. Those craving something even more
luxurious can book one of the garden cottages located in its
private courtyard or have gourmet cuisine delivered to their
room by the nearby Michelin-starred Restaurant Christophe.
Q38 rooms. PHAK
Picnic on the Amstel Lya Cattel
WHERE TO STAY
22
WHERE TO STAY
Mid-range
A-Train Hotel A-1, Prins Hendrikkade 23, tel. (+31) 206
24 19 42, www.atrainhotel.com. If youre a rail enthusiast
there really is no other option for accommodation in Amsterdam
than the kitschy A-Train Hotel. Not only is it located across the
street from the Central Station, but a rail theme also dominates
every aspect of the three-star hotel including the breakfast
area, where you dine in rail car booths and the miniature train
models and memorabilia covering every surface of the building.
Rooms are small but offer private bathrooms with shower and
hairdryer as well as a TV, phone and safe. The friendly staff
complete the experience. Q 34 rooms (singles from 119,
doubles from 129). JAKX
Avenue Hotel Amsterdam A-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburg-
wal 33, tel. (+31) 205 30 95 30, www.embhotels.nl. This
colossal hotel is spread out over nine historic buildings in the
city centre a short walk from the Central Station. Standard
rooms trul y are standard with basic tourist-class furnishings
including faux wooden furniture, white walls and dark brown
wall-to-wall carpeting. The rooms also offer the usual ameni-
ties like phone, cable TV, wireless internet, hairdryer and light
repulsing curtains. The bathrooms are small and offer onl y
a drain in the floor instead of a proper washing area, but the
showerheads are huge! Q80 rooms (singles 80 - 130,
triples 160 - 230, quads 182 - 260, twin 115 - 165, twin
superior 140 - 200). PAW
Best Western Apollo Museumhotel Amsterdam
City Centre F-8, Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat 2, tel.
(+31) 206 62 14 02, www.apollohotelsresorts.com/mu-
seum. This huge hotel is located next to many of the citys
best museums, hence the name, as well as Amsterdams
most salubrious shopping street. Given its excellent location
and three-star status all of its nearl y 200 rooms are often
booked solid by large groups so definitely reserve in advance.
Classic rooms offer modern, minimalist interiors decorated
in whites, beiges and the occasional splash of red to spice
things up. Executive rooms are similar, but more spacious and
include some extra amenities such as a mini-bar and views
of the canal. Q188 rooms. PAGKW
Best Western Dam Square Inn A-2, Gravenstraat 12
- 16, tel. (+31) 206 23 37 16, www.bestwesterndam-
squareinn.com. Located just behind the New Church off Dam
Square, few hotels have a better location than this three-star
hotel that was completel y renovated as recentl y as 2009.
Al though still not exactl y the height of fashion with bare white
walls and dark maroon carpets, the rooms do include large
flat screen TVs, extra long beds, pri vate bathrooms wi th
hairdryers, coffee/tea set and wireless internet access (for
an extra fee). Some of the citys most historic brown cafs
are also on the same street so youre never far from a glass
of beer or jenever. Q 38 rooms (singles from 105, doubles
from 135, triples from 165). PJAW
Best Western Leidse Square Hotel E-8, Tes-
selschadestraat 23, tel. (+31) 206 12 68 76, www.
leidsesquarehotel.nl. Al though the rooms arent exactl y
what we would call stylish, they are surprisingly spacious and
include all sorts of amenities like TV, phone, writing desk, safe,
tea kettle, climate control and private bathrooms with showers
and hair dryers, not to mention yellow and blue colour schemes.
The carpets have more than a few stains, but for a tourist class
hotel its actually quite good and the location near the Van
Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum is excellent. It doesnt offer a
restaurant, but its bar is open late if youre partial to a cocktail
or two before bed. Q (singles 59, quads 129 - 149, twin
69 - 79, superior 79 - 89). Breakfast: 10. AG
Hotel Aalders Amsterdam F-9, Jan Luijkenstraat 13
-15, tel. (+31) 206 62 01 16, www.hotelaalders.nl. Three
generations of Aalders have been running this small three-star
hotel spread out across two buildings behind the Rijksmuseum
since 1955 so you can be sure that the staff know a thing
or two about customer service. Each room differs slightl y in
size, but all are equipped with cable TV, phone, climate control,
private bathroom with hairdryer and shower or bathtub and
free wireless internet access. The red, blue or brown carpet-
ing and plain white walls wont win any design competitions,
but its a friendl y, comfortable place to stay and a breakfast
buffet is included in the price. Bike rental is also available. Q
28 rooms (singles from 97, doubles or twin from 116, triples
from 185, famil y room from 205). AGW
Hotel Citadel A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 98 -100,
tel. (+31) 206 27 38 82, www.hotelcitadel.nl. This
three-star hotel located a short distance from the Central
Station looks like standard, tourist-class accommodation
thats been upgraded and modernised to reflect more con-
temporary tastes. That said, some rooms such as the triples
still look a bit old-fashioned, so we recommend the doubles
decorated in subtle greys with the occasional flash of red for
dramatic effect and a large black and white photograph above
the bed. Flat screen TVs, private bathrooms with showers
and hairdryers, phone and safe also come standard and a
late-night bar and even room service are at your disposal.
Q 38 rooms. AKW
Owl Hotel E-8, Roemer Visscherstraat 1, tel. (+31)
206 18 94 84, www.owl-hotel.nl. Located in a quiet, some
would say posh, neighbourhood near the Rijksmuseum, this
comfortable three-star hotel is a great place for people who
want to avoid the carnival atmosphere of central Amsterdam.
Rooms are on the small side but offer private bathrooms with
bathtub or shower and a hair dryer not to mention plenty of
clean towels. Cable TV, safe and phone are also standard
amenities in each room and a computer is available on the
ground floor for free internet access. The staff is also incred-
ibly friendly and a good breakfast buffet is included in the price
which you can enjoy in its private garden during the summer
months. Q34 rooms (singles 80 - 97, doubles 105 - 132,
triples 125 - 169, quads 135 - 189). ARW
RobertRamon Hotel E-8, P.C. Hooftstraat 24 - 28, tel.
(+31) 206 71 47 85, www.robertramon.com. Located
on Amsterdams most glamorous shopping street, Robert
Ramon is a good option for travellers who require a little style,
yet are willing to sacrifice the heal th clubs, saunas and other
facilities that come standard at the chain hotels to save some
money. Rooms, especiall y singles, are on the small side, but
include interesting interior dcor, flat screen TVs, wireless
internet access, safe, phone, writing desk and private bath-
rooms. Q 51 rooms (singles 60 - 74, doubles 74 - 89,
triples 89 - 119). Breakfast: 20. PAUGW
Amsterdam School architecture M.Zaprauskis
WHERE TO STAY
23
WHERE TO STAY
WestCord City Centre Hotel Amsterdam A-1,
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 50, tel. (+31) 204 22 00 11,
fax (+31) 204 20 03 57, www.westcordhotels.nl. The
modern, some would say stylish reception area and restau-
rant with red leather couches and black and grey walls hint
at the hotels recent renovations. Al though some standard
rooms remain, we recommend upgrading to a deluxe room
which are only slightly more expensive and include sleek dcor
in addi tion to the usual three-star ameni ties like wireless
internet access, phone, safe, hair dryer, tea kettle, etc. The
bathrooms are separated from the bedroom by a frosted
glass partition and inside all of the fixtures are either glass
or steel. Take a seat on translucent plastic chairs or hop in
a bed that faces the opposite direction of what youd expect
toward a large flat screen TV mounted on the wall. Q 106
rooms (20 standard from 80, 86 deluxe from 100). Break-
fast: 15. PAKW
Budget
Backstage Hotel Amsterdam E-7, Leidsegracht 114,
tel. (+31) 206 24 40 44, fax (+31) 206 38 52 54, info@
backstagehotel.com, www.backstagehotel.com. I ts
reall y hard to find good accommodation in Amsterdam for a
price that wont leave you feeling like youve been mugged,
but, somehow, this hip hotel manages to do just that. I t
keeps its rates surprisingl y low and its guests happy with
free wi-fi, iPod docking stations in each room, trendy Flight
Case furniture and a great location thats close enough to the
bars and clubs of Leidseplein, but just far enough away so
you dont actuall y hear all of the nightlife thats associated
with the square. Lots of bands that play Amsterdam stay
here, hence the name and the rock music theme, so you can
expect a livel y atmosphere, especiall y at its private bar and
billiard room thats onl y open to guests. Q (singles from
59, doubles/twin from 88, triples from 138, quads and
quintuples from 198). AGW
Hotel Clemens E-5, Raadhuisstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206
24 60 89, fax (+31) 206 26 96 58, www.clemenshotel.
com. As wi th many two-star Amsterdam hotels, you have
to ascend a steep set of stairs to reach reception, but
once inside you probabl y wont be disappointed. Each of
i ts nine rooms is slightl y di fferent, but as a general rule the
budget rooms are smaller and share toilets and showers
out in the corridor, while the deluxe rooms are a bi t bigger
and have a few added ameni ties like pri vate bathrooms. All
rooms include TV, phone, hair dryer, small refrigerator and
safe. Al though not exactl y fashionable, the accommoda-
tion here has a bi t of old world elegance and breakfast is
served in the cosy reception area whose main attraction is
an electric faux fireplace. Unfortunatel y, one of the rooms
we visi ted smelled a bi t musty, but that appeared to be a
fluke. Q 9 rooms (2 singles 55, 4 doubles 70 - 110, 3
triples 150). R
Hotel Tamara A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 144, tel.
(+31) 206 24 24 84. Al though it refers to itself as a super
budget hotel, super-friendl y would also be an apt description.
Were not going to lie to you. This place is all about expecta-
tions. If youre used to creature comforts, then give Tamara
a pass. But if you dont mind sleeping in a tiny, closet-sized
room with a clean army cot and a sink to save a bundle of
money then you may have found the ideal place to rest your
head in the centre of Amsterdam. Six-bed dorm rooms are
also available. Ring the bell and take the steep stairs to the
next floor where guests get free coffee and tea all day. Still
not convinced? You also get a voucher for a free beer at a
nearby Irish pub. Q (singles 40, doubles 55, triples 70,
six-bed dorms 17.50/person). R
Hotel Waterfront A-3, Singel 458, tel./fax (+31) 204
21 66 21, www.hotelwaterfront.nl. Centrally located near
the Flower Market, this small hotels rooms arent exactl y at
the height of fashion, but theyre reasonably priced, especially
if you just show up and it has a vacancy. All accommodation
includes pri vate bathrooms wi th shower, cable TV wi th
DVD players and small sitting areas with a refrigerator and
a kettle for tea and coffee. A big Dutch breakfast is served
in the charming ground floor cafe decorated with local blue
porcelain plates. Q (singles 105 - 120, doubles 120 - 159,
triples 175 - 190). A
Nadia Hotel E-5, Raadhuisstraat 51, tel. (+31) 206
20 15 50, fax (+31) 204 28 15 07, www.nadia.nl. Of
all the budget options in this area, and there are qui te a few,
this one seems to be the best. The staff are friendl y, the
reception area decorated wi th a huge collection of miniature
Amsterdam houses is cosy and the rooms, al though tiny,
somehow manage to cram in a bed, TV, refrigerator, phone
and even pri vate bathrooms. Some of the street side rooms
have a bi t of traffic noise, while others on the canal side
are more peaceful. In fact, some even offer balconies wi th
excellent views of the canal. In short, i ts like staying in a
cosy cabin on a ship or in the guest room at Frodo Baggins
house. Q45 rooms (singles, doubles, triples and quads
from 65). W
Hostels
Bobs Youth Hostel A-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 92,
tel. (+31) 206 23 00 63, fax (+31) 206 75 64 46, www.
bobsyouthhostel.nl. Onl y a short walk from the Central
Station, this legendary Amsterdam hostel is one of the few
of its genre that specialises in walk-in business, so as long
as you show up before evening theres a good chance youll
get a bed here even on a weekend. Those not accustomed
to hostel cul ture might be a little overwhelmed by the grungy
reception cellar manned by staff who are helpful to all except
the few who dare to smoke ganja there. Please respect my
lungs! she chastised. Rooms are often located in a nearby
building with stairs so steep youd think the Hillary Step was
at the top. Rooms are basic with bunk beds, but each dorm
has i ts own washroom. Unfortunatel y, there was no hot
water when we stayed there. Perhaps it just takes a reall y
long time to reach the third floor. Q 144 beds (dorm beds
18 - 23). A
Tourist Inn A-1, Spuistraat 52, tel. (+31) 204 21 58
41, fax (+31) 204 27 09 00, www.tourist-inn.nl. Were
almost reluctant to tell you about this little gem, because its
usuall y the place where we stay when we want to save some
cash in Amsterdam. Part hotel, part hostel, the aptl y named
Tourist Inn offers clean recentl y renovated singles, doubles
and triples with flat screen TVs, wireless internet access,
air condi tioning and pri vate bathrooms wi th shower and
hair dryer or slightl y cheaper rooms with shared toilets and
showers. Six-bed dorms with clean bunk beds, TVs, lockers
and wi-fi are also a bargain and the shared toilet and shower
facilities are clean and modern. Breakfast is included in the
price and four computers with internet access are available
in the reception area for a small fee. Did we mention that
its a short walk from the Central Station? Q 22 rooms
(singles, doubles and triples from 60, dorm beds 20
- 35/person). PAW
Download a free PDF guide at
24
RESTAURANTS
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendl y I Fireplace
X Smoking section U Facilities for the disabled
W Free wireless internet 6 Pets allowed
Symbol key
American
Hard Rock Caf F-8, Max Euweplein 57 - 61, tel. (+31)
205 23 76 25, www.hardrock.com. If youve been living in
a cave for the last 30 years then there might be a small possi-
bility that youve never heard of this place. Nevertheless, if you
like rock music, rock memorabilia, huge, but pricey, servings
of pub food like enormous burgers, barbecue and Tex-Mex
from the States, not to mention canal side dining and drinking
not far from the Rijksmuseum, then look no further than this
huge chain of American bar/restaurants. Naturall y, you can
also buy all kinds of Hard Rock souvenirs at its shop, which
is often part and parcel of the experience. QOpen 11:30
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (15 - 20) AEB
Asian
Wagamama F-8, Max Euweplein 10, tel. (+31) 205 28
77 78, www.wagamama.nl. Al though a little on the expen-
sive side, Wagamama, which is part of an international chain
of Asian fusion/ramen bars, offers expertl y presented meals
that will satisfy even the largest of appetites. A noodle soup
can cost as much as 16, but thats all part of the experience
of dining at a trendy ramen bar. You also pay for the quick
and attentive service and a great location near Leidseplein.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (12 - 16)
PTJAUVGBKS
Bagels
Bagels & Beans A-2, Raadhuisstraat 18, tel. (+31)
206 38 07 88, www.bagelsbeans.nl. Were not exactl y
sure where the beans fit into the equation, but if you like
plain, whole wheat, tomato, everything, cinnamon and even
gluten-free (whatever that means) bagels with a wide variety
of toppings from hummus, tuna salad or Parma ham to tradi-
tional cream cheese, then head over to this popular chain of
bagel bistros. You can also drink freshl y squeezed fruit and
vegetable juices, al though, try as we might, we cant seem
to find the appeal of cucumber juice. You can also take ad-
vantage of free wi-fi. QOpen 09:01 - 17:32, Sat, Sun 09:58
- 18:02. Also at Ferdinand Bolstraat 70, tel. (+31) 206 72 16
10. Open 08:31 - 17:32, Sun 08:58 - 18:01; and many other
locations. (5) ASW
Tonys NY City Bagels H-5, Jodenbreestraat 15, tel.
(+31) 204 21 59 30, www.tonysnycitybagels.nl. Not
far from the Rembrandt House, this sel f-proclaimed New
York bagel shop offers a variety of bagels with even more
toppings from traditional cream cheese to guacamole. Order
a cold sandwich or tuna mel ts and BLT bagels or you can try
brownies, cookies and delicious carrot cake. If youd rather
eat at home take a bunch with you for 0.90/bagel or 8.50
for 10. Naturall y, coffee, tea and juice are also available in this
bright yellow bistro with high ceilings and views of the street.
Order and pay at the counter. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. (2 - 5)
Village Bagels B-1, Marnixstraat 140, tel. (+31) 204 68
52 86, www.villagebagels.nl. This tiny bagel caf calls itself
a bagel espresso bar and that really does about sum it up.
Americans will be happy to know that in addition to bagels with
less traditional toppings like aged Dutch cheese and hummus,
you can also get pastrami, tuna or plain cream cheese bagels as
well as Arizona ice tea and Gatorade to wash it down. If youre at
the Marnixstraat outlet youll probably want to order takeaway,
as theres hardly any space here, but its other venue offers lots
more room and a summer terrace. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at Vijzelstraat 137. Open 07:30
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. (4 - 6). SW
Bakeries
Bakkerij Lekker Brood en Zo E-5, Keizersgracht 92,
tel. (+31) 206 24 32 57. This local neighbourhood bakery
sells all of the usual items including fresh bread, doughnuts
and muffins, but what sets Lekker Brood en Zo apart is its
excellent selection of cupcakes with everything from tradi-
tional cherry and chocolate frosting to pistachio and even
cola cream. You can sit at half a dozen tables to enjoy your
purchase with a coffee or some juice. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. (2 - 5).
Kwekkeboom G-6, Reguliersbreestraat 36, tel. (+31)
206 23 12 05, www.kwekkeboom.net. Know this posh
bakery and sweetshop by the beautiful stained glass above
its entrance. Inside you can relax with a delicious waffle, a
slice of cake or maybe some bonbons. Naturall y you can
also order a hot drinks or just take away some chocolates for
later. QOpen 09:00 - 17:45, Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 12:00
- 18:00. Also at Ferdinand Bolstraat 119, tel. (+31) 206 73 71
14; Papaverweg 36, tel. (+31) 204 35 30 30; Linnaeusstraat
80, tel. (+31) 206 65 04 43. S
Lanskroon A-3, Singel 385, tel. (+31) 206 23 77 43,
www.lanskroon.nl. Apparentl y this bakery and caf has
been in the Dunselman famil y since 1908, which means
they must be doing something right. A cappuccino will run
you 2.70 and you can eat a sausage roll or a croissant with
ham cheese for breakfast, but the delicious cakes, pies and
tartlets seem much more tempting. QOpen 08:00 - 17:30,
Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 10:00 - 17:30.
Barbecue
Caf de Klos F-8, Kerkstraat 41 - 43, tel. (+31) 206 25
37 30, www.beiaardgroep.eu. Al though this place looks
like an authentic Dutch brown bar with solid wood furniture,
wood panelling and imitation Dutch master paintings collect-
ing dust on their chunky frames, the staff assured us that
its actuall y a restaurant specialising in barbecued meat of
all kinds. Order huge servings of spare ribs, smoked chicken,
sirloins, t-bones, lamb chops and prime rib guaranteed to
make a vegetarian salivate. A decent selection of beer is
also on draught including microbrews from De Bekeerde
Suster, which is owned by the same people. QOpen 16:00
- 24:00. (12 - 22).
Strand-West Stavangerweg 900, tel. (+31) 206 82
63 10, www.strand-west.nl. After an ini tial period of
fumbling, incapable staff and dishes that werent that great,
Strand-West now seems to have overcome its initial start-
up problems. And al though this trendy restaurant is open
throughout the year, its still best enjoyed on a sunny summer
day. With the cool sensation of sand grains between your toes,
the colourful cocktails and the island sounds played by the
DJs you can almost imagine that youre on a tropical beach
instead of a renovated dock in Amsterdam. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. (13 - 18). TJULGBKXW
RESTAURANTS
26
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Cafeterias
De Bijenkorf Kitchen A-2, Dam 1, tel. 900 09 19 (toll
call), www.debijenkorf.nl. Pass some of the worlds biggest
brands like Vuitton and Gucci on your way to the top floor of this
posh department store to reach De Bijenkorf Kitchen - an up-
market cafeteria that offers a stylish, modern interior and views
of Amsterdam. The Asian stand cooks stir fries to order, the
seafood stand boasts oysters and sushi, you can order pizzas
and pasta at the Italian counter and steaks at the grill. A much-
coveted outdoor terrace with limited seating is connected to
the bar area. Needless to say, the Kitchen also offers plenty of
ice cream, cake and coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun
11:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. (5 - 12). AB
La Place A-1, Kalverstraat 201 - 203 / Rokin 164, tel.
(+31) 206 20 23 64, www.laplace.nl. When was the last
time you ate at a gourmet cafeteria? If the answer is never
then head over to La Place which is connected to the V&D
department store on the Kal verstraat. Sample food from
several different buffets that each has its own speciality from
seafood, pizzas and sandwiches to steaks and Asian stir fries
all cooked to order. You can also drop by for delicious des-
serts and coffee and enjoy them on the balcony overlooking
Amsterdams busiest shopping street below. With seating
for over 300 people you can choose the style that suits you
best such as antique tables wi th marble tops or modern
furniture in the atrium. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Sun
11:00 - 20:00. (5 - 12). AS
Chinese
Nam Kee B-1, Zeedijk 111 - 113, tel. (+31) 206 24 34
70, www.namkee.net. In our estimation the best Chinese
places have crispy duck and pork hanging in their shop front
windows and this popular place located opposite the FGS He
Hua Temple in Chinatown certainl y fits the bill. Order exotic
dishes with prawns or maybe some eel or just skip the culinary
shenanigans and stick with the aforementioned food hanging
in the window which is delicious and costs onl y half of what
you would spend on the seafood dishes. The maitre d loves
to sing to both the patrons and himself and is often caught
in the act of singing to no one in particular. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (10 - 18)
New King B-1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25
21 80, www.newking.nl. We were a li ttle apprehensi ve
when we encountered New King, because unlike so many
other restaurants in Chinatown, this one actuall y looks styl-
ish with light coloured wood panelling, red banners of Asian
comic book characters eating food and dark brown wallpaper
that looks like snakeskin. Thankfull y, this wasnt a case of
interior design prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and
Indonesian cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingl y
reasonable, too! Order whole fish, steaming bowls of seafood,
crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic dishes
like frog legs. Cocktails and a decent wine list are also avail-
able. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (12 - 18). A
Wing Kee B-1, Zeedijk 76 - 78, tel. (+31) 206 23 56 83.
The pink walls and ceiling, the functional tile floor and other
so-called design attributes could hardly be called atmospheric
or stylish which is precisel y the reason why this excellent
Chinese restaurant is so authentic, but you dont have to take
our word for it. Just look at the photograph above the bar of
Jackie Chan chatting with the owner. Although we recommend
the oven baked jumbo prawns in spicy black bean sauce, one
could hardl y blame you for ordering its surprisingl y affordable
specialities - namel y suckling pig and crispy duck. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. (10 - 20).
Coffee
Espressofabriek C-3, Gosschalklaan 7 (Westergasfab-
riek), tel. (+31) 204 86 21 06, www.espressofabriek.
nl. Located right next to a popular park where children play
football and parents picnic, the technologically advanced (and
expensive) coffee machines at the Espressofabriek are manned
by professional baristas who obviously take pride in their work.
They even offer seminars to anyone curious to know how to
pour the perfect espresso. This isnt the place to go for a quick
cup of Joe, but rather an establishment for true connoisseurs.
QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. B
Mellys Cookie Bar A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 137,
tel. (+31) 204 23 47 97. This charming little caf/bakery
doesnt offer much seating - a few barstools by the window
and a cushioned bench at a low table - but luckil y all of the
delicious brownies, pastries, sweets and, of course, cookies
can be taken take away. Gourmet coffee and tea can also be
had and the mint green walls with white trim enhance the
generall y cosy feeling of the place. Wine aficionados can also
check out the wine shop downstairs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Thu, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (2 - 4). A
Diners
Soup Kitchen F-4, Nieuwendijk 50, tel. (+31) 205 28
71 75, www.soupkitchen.nl. No, its not the kind of soup
kitchen you might have in mind where the homeless and drug
addicts queue up for free food. For 4.50 you can choose from
six different soups including French onion, tomato, mushroom,
spinach, tom kha kai or sweet potato. You can also try burg-
ers, a weak interpretation of an English breakfast, omelettes
and filled baguettes. If you stick to the soup youll be alright
and i ts location on a corner near the station guarantees
good people watching. Not impressed by the simple black
and white interior? Order your soup to take away. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00. (5). S
Studio 2 A-3, Singel 504, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 36.
This cosy little caf offers great views of the bustling Flower
Market outside, not to mention excellent traditional Dutch
dishes like green pea soup, omelettes, pancakes, apple
pie and, like most places, an English breakfast for tourists.
The food is incredibl y cheap by city centre standards, but if
youre not hungry its also a good place to take a break from
shopping and sightseeing with a coffee or a beer. QOpen
09:30 - 17:30. (5 - 8). A
Teddys Corner A-2, Warmoesstraat 45, tel. (+31) 204
23 21 67. This no frills diner and bar serves up anything
from salads and burgers to steaks and lamb chops, but we
get the feeling that most people pop in for a big breakfast
with coffee or tea regardless of the time of day. Al though it
also offers beer and cocktails, its more of a place to recharge
your batteries and to line your stomach before returning to
other Red Light bars and coffeeshops on this infamous street.
Q (7 - 15). A
The Corner E-4, Martelaarsgracht 26, tel. (+31) 206
24 87 00. Fancy a big fry up at 20:00? No problem. This grey
and white diner, or greasy spoon as the Americans say, serves
up a variety of big breakfasts all day long. You can also order
prawns with fries, steak with fries and a whole lot of other
food with fries, but most people seem to come for the eggs
with all the trimmings for a good price. The music is boring,
the candlelight a little too refined for the surroundings and
occasionall y the smells from the deep fryer can permeate
the place, but its hard to beat for a hearty meal of bacon,
sausages and the like. Q (7 - 12). B
RESTAURANTS
27
RESTAURANTS
Dutch
Cafe Quinto G-9, Frans Halsstraat 42 - 44, tel. (+31)
206 79 67 48, www.cafequinto.nl. Since 1987, this
classic Amsterdam caf in the funky de Pijp district has
been ser ving Dutch and internati onal food as well as
plenty of beer and cocktails to employees of local busi-
nesses and residents of this quiet neighbourhood. The
friendl y owner and his knowledgeable staff make every
guest feel at home and even wine connoisseurs wont
be left out in the cold as Quinto has a surprisingl y good
selection of organic wines. A summer terrace is another
big bonus where you can enjoy a tradi tional breakfast of
uitsmijter (an open-faced egg sandwich) and a draught
brew whil e commuters and professi onals walk by wi th
envious looks on their faces. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (8
- 17). TJA6ULGBKXW
De Keuken Van 1870 A-1, Spuistraat 4, tel. (+31) 206
20 40 18, www.keukenvan1870.nl. This popular Dutch
restaurant has a refined, minimalist interior of light wood
furni ture, bone coloured walls and original purple stained
glass windows, not to mention an open-plan kitchen at the
far end of the hall. In other words, its a huge departure from
most local restaurants that cash in on their medieval dcor.
As the name suggests, The Kitchen from 1870 specialises
in classic Dutch dishes from a variety of stamppot (potato
and vegetable mash with meat and gravy) and Dutch beef-
steak to mussels and herring starters for affordable prices,
which is why its almost al ways packed. A good selection of
beer and wine is available and the onl y thing that doesnt fit
in with the national theme is the music which can be salsa
one night and R&B the next. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (9 - 12). AB
De Roode Leeuw A-2, Damrak 93 - 94, tel. (+31) 205
55 06 66, reservations@restaurantderoodeleeuw.nl,
www.restaurantderoodeleeuw.nl. Since 1911 this hotel
restaurant has been a genuine attraction to hordes of tourists
and day trippers. Authentic Dutch dishes such as mussels,
stew, pea soup and herring are injected wi th new li fe at
The Red Lion, where dishes that grandma would approve of
are spiced up with a modern touch. Old fashioned interior
elements such as chandeliers and immaculatel y dressed
waiters reflect the ambience of 1950s Amsterdam. Try the
Cadzandse bread pudding made of bi tter macaroon and
vanilla ice cream, which tastes much better than it sounds.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (18 - 24). JAUK
Haesje Claes A-2, Spuistraat 273 - 275, tel. (+31) 206
24 99 98, info@haesjeclaes.nl, www.haesjeclaes.nl.
This classic Dutch restaurant spans six historic Amsterdam
houses, many of which still retain their original architectural
features including medieval paintings, stained glass windows
and tile tableaux. Order traditional dishes like pea soup with
sausages and sal ted herring, not to mention three different
kinds of stamppot (potato and vegetable mash) from which
to choose. Plenty of seafood is also on offer from salmon in
Hollandaise sauce to oysters on the half shell and steamed
mussels. The service is a bit stiff and formal, but the selec-
tion of beer from local city breweries De Prael and t IJ is as
good as it gets. Naturall y, a good wine list is also available.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 22). AB
Hungry for more?
28
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Roots H-8, Stadhouderskade 123, tel. (+31) 206 75 07
07, www.rootsamsterdam.nl. If youve ever flown over Hol-
land youve probabl y noticed that the country is divided into
thousands of tiny farms that often specialise in wholesome,
often organic vegetables. This fresh produce is essential to
Roots Dutch/French inspired cuisine. Asparagus, lamb, mus-
sels: it doesnt really matter what you order here as every dish
is a celebration of farm-fresh food. The friendly staff, trendy in-
terior and reasonable prices complete its successful formula.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PTJA6UGBKXW
Skek Eetcaf B-1, Zeedijk 4, tel. (+31) 204 27 05
51, info@skek.nl, www.skek.nl. This local meeting spot
is a gem amongst a sea of bland tourist traps on the Zeedijk.
Skek is a restaurant where you can eat some fresh food
supplied by the local markets and a caf where you can sip
a fresh mint tea or a seasonal beer. Skek is also invol ved in
the local scene by showcasing artists paintings on the walls
and offering a small stage for musicians to do their thing.
The atmosphere is relaxed and the service is pleasant and
sincere. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (12
- 15). PJAUGKSW
t Lieverdje A-3, Singel 415, tel. (+31) 206 24 73 16.
This unpretentious caf and bar serves up classic homemade
Dutch dishes like stamppot, frikandel and apple pie for afford-
able prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers is also
at your disposal but bear in mind that the resident cat might
choose to sit in your lap if youre male. Apparentl y, it doesnt
like women or so the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior
with large brass candelabras and even an antique chandelier
guarantee a cosy stay here, but remember that during peek
eating times youll have to sit at the bar if you onl y want a
drink. Tables are reserved for hungry patrons. QOpen 12:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun. (6 - 12) B
Fast food
Burger King G-6, Stationsplein 5, tel. (+31) 204 23 48
88, www.burgerking.nl. When was the last time you had
fast food in a giant 19th-century hall with elaborate ceiling
decorations and wall frescos? The Burger King at the Cen-
tral Station can do that and more. It also offers views of the
Damrak and of the non-stop movement of travellers below
from the balcony and of the trains out on the platforms. All
of the usual burgers, fries and onion rings can, of course, be
had here or you can choose one of its other locations in the
centre of town. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.
Also at Leidseplein 7, tel. (+31) 206 23 98 32. Open 09:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00; Nieuwendijk 217, tel. (+31)
206 20 80 38. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00;
and other locations. (4 - 7). AS
Grill Steakhouse Mama F-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat
56, tel. (+31) 206 20 48 28. The exal ted name is a little
optimistic and the faux brick walls arent fooling anyone, but
the shoarma is pretty good, even at a steep 5 for a small
pi ta. That said, the sauce is trul y spicy and the staff are
constantly in motion cutting meat and serving inebriated pub
crawlers in the middle of the night. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. (5 - 7). S
Subway A-2, Rokin 20, tel. (+31) 204 20 93 59, www.
subway.nl. Just off of Dam Square youll find a Subway
sandwich shop on two floors. All of the usual tuna and
meatball concoctions are available in this popular chain
of American fast food restaurants and i ts, dare we say, a
heal thier option than dining at Micky Ds or the Colonels.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:30
- 22:00. AS
French
Cafe Ruis onder de bomen (White noise under
the trees) H-9, Van der Helstplein 9, www.cafe-ruison-
derdebomen.nl. This pleasant pub is located in de Pijp, one
of Amsterdams most interesting neighbourhoods. Situated
on a lovely square with lots of trees, the surroundings couldnt
be more attractive and the French-inspired menu looks excit-
ing. Unfortunatel y, the final resul t isnt as good as it could be.
The herb jar seems to be under lock and key and the grumpy
staff could do with a crash course in customer service. The
well chosen wines, the traditionall y baked organic bread, the
presentation of the dishes and the tasty cheeses on the
other hand, do reflect the passion for good food for which
the French are so famous. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. AUGBKX
Maxime F-8, P.C. Hooftstraat 63, tel. (+31) 206 76
53 06, info@maximeamsterdam.nl, www.maximeam-
sterdam.nl. Seeing and being seen is the motto at Maxime,
a trendy boutique restaurant on the P.C. Hooftstraat, the
nations poshest shopping street. Surrounded by the likes
of Chanel, Louis Vuitton and other boring brands, this stylish
bistro is al ways occupied by Dutch celebrities, wannabees
and groupies trying desperatel y to look cool. Enjoy one of
the many artisticall y served treats here on the colorful, and
tasteful sofas or at one of the many teeny-tiny tables. The chef
changes the menu every two weeks so we cant really recom-
mend anything except perhaps to wear your best clothes.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (34). PAGBKW
Open E-3, Westerdoksplein 20, tel. (+31) 206 20 10
10, info@open.nl, www.open.nl. This glass house is si tu-
ated on an old rail way bridge, an archi tectural wonder you
wont want to miss. Diners are afforded a panoramic view
of all of the exci ting sights that the IJ and the ci ty centre
have to offer. Unfortunatel y, i t appears that the owners
have invested too much in i ts design and not enough in
the expensi ve cuisine. Despi te the style over substance
atmosphere, i ts a perfect place to have a drink, so maybe
pass on the food and order a beer wi th your view. Q (20
- 23). TABKW
Although many Europeans
take it for granted, the Dutch
restaurant industrys cus-
tom of of feri ng separate
l unch and di nner menus
may come as a surpri se
to visitors from across the
pond. In many cafs, bars
and other eating and drink-
ing establishments in the
Netherlands its often policy
to provide lighter meals like sandwiches, soups,
salads and some breakfast food until roughly
16:00. Afterward it may be only possible to order
snacks until the dinner menu, which will offer
heartier hot meals at higher prices, comes into
effect around 18:00. This menu will once again
only be valid until 23:00 at the latest, although it
may still be possible to order some Dutch treats
like bitterballen until midnight.
Lunch v. dinner
RESTAURANTS
29
RESTAURANTS
Greek
De 2 Grieken E-4, Prinsenstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206 25
53 17. The maps of Greece on the wall are wrinkled and yel-
lowing and the whole place exudes an atmosphere of faded
glory, yet the two Greeks who run the place are still passion-
ate about their work. You wont find haute cuisine here, but if
youre in the mood for solid peasant fare like moussaka, sou-
vlaki and some fried squid accompanied by a house wine or
some ouzo, then you wont be disappointed. If youre not sure
what to order, you cant go wrong with the mixed grill, which
comes with four kinds of meat, rice, potatoes, giant beans,
slaw and fresh tzatziki for about 15. A small garden terrace
is also available. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (15). AB
To Ouzeri C-7, De Clercqstraat 106, tel. (+31) 206 18
14 12, www.toouzeri.nl. This small restaurant outside the
city centre serves genuine Greek food for affordable prices.
The best choice is probabl y a selection of tapas that will
satisfy both your hunger and your culinary expectations.
Tiri saganaki (mel ted cheese flamed with Greek brandy) is
definitel y the highlight in addition to homemade yoghurt or
tzatziki. The service may not be the best, but thats also
how you know that its authenticall y Greek. QOpen 17:00
- 23:00. (17 - 20). TGK
Home delivery
Dominos Pizza E-8, Overtoom 71, tel. (+31) 204 12
21 31. American fast food pizza delivered to your home or
hotel room. Pies range in price from 7.50 - 17.50 and you can
also order buffalo wings. QOpen 16:00 - 22:30.
Kamasutra B-2, Lange Niezel 9, tel. (+31) 206 26 00
03, www.restaurantkamasutra.nl. Satisfy your cravings
for curries, chicken tikka masala or a spicy vindaloo by having
some classic Indian cuisine delivered to your apartment or
hotel room. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Ice cream
Fior di Gelato G-7, Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 56, tel. (+31)
646 25 77 00, www.fiordigelato.nl. Trul y delicious gelato
as well as coffee and pastries such as croissants can be had
at this tiny cafeteria on Amsterdams most illustrious antique
shop street. All of the artisanal I talian-style ice cream is
homemade with fresh ingredients like real cream and fruit
and youll have a tough time finding a better espresso than
at Fior di Gelato. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
IJscuypje E-6, Prinsengracht 292, www.ijscuypje.nl.
Even boats dock nearby on the Prinsengracht to enjoy some
of Amsterdams best ice cream and sorbet and with flavours
like marzipan, coconut and raspberry, you wont mind the
queue of salivating patrons either. Prices are affordable, but
theres no seating so youll have to take it away. A few other
outlets are also available throughout the city. QOpen 13:00
- 21:00. Also at Eerste van der Helststraat 27; Haarlemmerdijk
14; Amstel veenseweg 218. TJS
Monte Pelmo D-5, Tweede Anjeliersdwarsstraat 17,
tel. (+31) 206 23 09 59, www.montepelmo.nl. People
queue up to get an ice cream cone at Monte Pelmo and so
will you once you see what this small shop has on offer. Try
anything from conventional pistachio and stracciatella to
more exotic flavours like American cookies and the bright
blue smurf. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. AS
Indian
Gandhi A-1, Damrak 54, tel. (+31) 206 38 32 22,
info@indianrestaurantgandhi.com, www.indianrestau-
rantgandhi.com. Gandhi is a top-notch Indian restaurant
with attentive staff who serve tasty traditional Indian curry
dishes in a room with no windows and hardly any decorations
on the Damrak. However, despite the lack of ambience, the
real surprise is i ts tacky location onl y a fi ve-minute walk
from Central Station. You could easil y walk past this hid-
den treasure, so look for a sauna next to the entrance. Try
the combination menus, which are good value for money.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (13 - 17).
PTJAGK
Meghna H-6, Utrechtsestraat 28, tel. (+31) 206 25 13
92, www.meghna.nl. This tiny Indian restaurant with less
than a dozen tables offers an authentic menu of classic dishes
from the subcontinent and is so popular, even on weeknights,
that its nearl y al ways full, yet somehow you can al ways get a
table. Sparsel y decorated with artistic renditions of what ap-
pear to be scenes from the Mogul court, the dining experience
isnt about the interior design, but rather culinary indulgence.
Whatever you choose, curries, hot vindaloos or its delicious
tikka mixed grill, you wont be disappointed. Free pappadums
with an incredibl y spicy sauce, of which the owner warned us,
is a nice perk to an already excellent evening. QOpen 17:00
- 23:00. (12 - 18). A
Michael Caine perhaps said
it best in the third installment
of the Austin Powers film tril-
ogy when he said: There are
two kinds of people I cant
stand in this world. People
who are intolerant of other
peoples cultures, and the
Dutch. To be honest most
of the derogatory expres-
sions we hear from time to
time like Dutch courage, Dutch treat, Dutch uncle,
Dutch comfort, etc. have their origins in the distant
past when Britain and the Netherlands fought
one another for colonies and spice routes. Dutch
courage either implies that the Dutch need to get
drunk to show some backbone or it could also be
a reference to the Dutch national drink, jenever,
which became popular across the sea as gin. Go-
ing Dutch is even better known and implies that
the Dutch are a cheap lot. Obviously, we refuse to
believe in such antiquated stereotypes and hardly
think that the Dutch are a stingy lot of deep-fried
food gulping, jenever swilling, French fry munching,
liquorice chewing, cheese swallowing tightwads.
Dutch courage
30
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Indonesian
Desa H-9, Ceintuurbaan 103, tel. (+31) 206 71 09 79,
www.restaurantdesa.com. Dutch Indonesian restaurants
almost never excel at choosing original names and Desa,
which means village, is no exception. Then again it does re-
flect the rustic environment of this casual establishment that
serves authentic dishes that are both tasty and affordable.
The chefs are skilled and the staff is friendl y, so Desa might
just be a good place to discover this exotic cuisine. QOpen
17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 14). AK
Indrapura B-3, Rembrandtplein 42, tel. (+31) 206
23 73 29, www.indrapura.nl. This is certainl y one of the
more elegant and upmarket Indonesian restaurants youll
come across in Amsterdam and i ts excellent location on
Rembrandtplein ensures that prices are also upmarket. The
interior is a combination of a touch of the Asian exotic mixed
with the old European harking back to Hollands distant colo-
nial past. Rijsttafels will set you back roughl y 40, but if you
eat before 20:00 youll receive a 25% discount on your food.
la carte meals will cost you around 20, but you wont be
disappointed by the service or the cuisine. QOpen 17:00
- 22:30. (20). AB
Kantjil & de Tijger A-3, Spuistraat 291 - 293, tel.
(+31) 206 20 09 94, www.kantjil.nl. Stylish, yet casual,
Kantijl & de Tiger is a good option if youre in the mood for
tasty Indonesian cuisine from local favourites like a variety of
rijsttafels and nasi goring to delicious desserts such as the
green Javanese pancake with coconut and palm sugar syrup.
The exotic smells of the sauces and seasonings are the first
thing one notices upon entering as meals are prepared in an
open-plan kitchen to the left. Although the place does include
some traditional design features like a tiger, palm trees and
bamboo, the interior is generall y a more modern affair. On a
hot day its delicious organic juices or the lemongrass ice tea
reall y hit the spot. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. (10 - 25) AB
Long Pura E-6, Rozengracht 46 - 48, tel. (+31) 206 23
89 50, restaurant-longpura.com. A li ttle off the beaten
track, this elegant restaurant offers both set menus and a
la carte. The so-called rice-table, which was eagerl y rec-
ommended by staff, is a good opportunity to taste several
different Indonesian dishes that are strong on quality, but a
little lacking in the quantity department. The wine selection
is pretty impressive, too, but bear in mind that the whole
experience at Long Pura is rather expensive. The satay is,
however, excellent and might even allow you to forgive the
slightl y absent-minded service. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Sun
17:00 - 23:00. (30 - 35). PJHGK
International
BlinQ F-7, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 5, tel. (+31) 203 30
40 00, www.blinq-amsterdam.nl. BlinQ is one of the latest
additions to Amsterdams long list of trendy restaurants that
also double as clubs and cocktail bars in the evening. Despite its
stylish aspirations its actually a nice spot to have an affordable
lunch or an intimate dinner in the evening. The terrace is also a
big plus but the cranky staff seem to have more important things
to do than to attend to their patrons so you might have to wait
a while to get a drink. At the weekend youll have to queue up
outside and pass BlinQs face control. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (19 - 24). JAGBKX
Caf Proust E-4, Noordermarkt 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 91
45. Popular with local 20- and 30-somethings, this stylish
caf is decorated with blackboard art (youll see what we
mean when you get there) and two long mirrors on opposite
walls that create an odd optical illusion, but its most striking
feature is the huge lamp hanging above the bar that looks
like a revol ver. You can order a good cocktail or a tasty brew,
but the menu is also worth a look and offers such interesting
dishes as lamb burgers with harissa sauce. Caf Proust also
has a small terrace but you might want to reserve a spot
ahead of time or get here earl y. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (10 - 18). B
De Bakkerswinkel B-2, Warmoesstraat 69, tel. (+31)
204 89 80 00, www.debakkerswinkel.nl. This long, narrow
industrial-looking space with pipes and wires hanging from the
ceiling provides a bright, refined atmosphere illuminated by a
number of skylights. You can expect classical music, a fresh
flower on each table and gourmet sweets, breakfasts, lunch and
a whole menu dedicated to high tea. Meals are prepared behind
a long counter to the right side thats covered in delicious pies
and cakes. The Bakers Shop is by no means cheap, but style
and taste dont come for free. Two small tables are also avail-
able out on the street when the weather cooperates. QOpen
08:00 - 17:30, Mon 10:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
Also at Polonceaukade 1-2 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 206
88 06 32. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00; Roelof
Hartstraat 68, (+31) 206 62 35 94. Open 07:30 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. AB
De Beiaard A-3, Spui 30, tel. (+31) 206 22 51 10. If
you like to watch trams pass by while drinking one of over 50
different beers, most of which are from Belgium, not to men-
tion its own microbrews, then you should definitel y give this
place a go. Needless to say, the interior is, with the exception
of the popular sun porch, typicall y brown. Should you need
something to prepare your stomach for the onslaught of
delicious Trappist concoctions, De Beiaard also offers soups,
snacks and salads as well as some affordable international
dishes from chicken satay to beef stew and food specials
after 16:00. If youre looking for an instant buzz try the 9%
Steenbrugge on draught. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (7 - 15)
Greenwoods English Tearoom F-4, Singel 103, tel.
(+31) 206 23 70 71, www.greenwoods.eu. This tiny little
caf is much more than a tearoom, al though tea certainl y is
its speciality. Take a seat in its cosy, rusticall y decorated
interior and order a hot drink with something sweet, sample
one of its heal thy sandwiches or try a delicious breakfast
like the omelette with mozzarella and chorizo sausage, full
English or eggs Benedict. Space is limited, especiall y at the
weekend when droves of people come here for brunch, so it
would be wise to call ahead and make a reservation. During
the summer Greenwoods also has a lovel y terrace on the
Singel canal. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30
- 19:00. (5 - 9). B
Summer terrace on Dam Square Lya Cattel
RESTAURANTS
31
RESTAURANTS
Italian
Assaggi D-5, Tweede Egelantiersdwarsstraat 6, tel.
(+31) 204 20 55 89, info@assaggiristorante.nl, www.as-
saggirestaurant.nl. With many cuisines a purel y traditional
menu is a sign of poverty or laziness, but thats not true of
Italian food. The homemade pasta at Assagi is served in a
wide variety of styles and its seafood dishes are particularl y
good, not to mention affordable. The staff is friendl y, the at-
mosphere is pleasant and the desserts are excellent. Make
sure to save some room for the divine lemon pie. Q Open
10:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:00, Wed 18:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (19 - 22). JGBKX
Il Tramezzino E-3, Haarlemmerstraat 79a, tel. (+31)
207 70 71 31, www.iltramezzino.nl. If youre looking for
something a bit more stylish than your average caf, this
trendy bistro serves up a bright white interior punctuated
by some classic Italian products that are also for sale like
Vergnano coffee, prosecco and Di Saronno amaretto cook-
ies. It also serves small, but delicious sandwiches with the
crusts cut off filled with fresh ingredients like mozzarella, olive
tapenade and mortadella. Naturall y, the coffee is fantastic. If
it looks full, just squeeze in. Theres more room in the back.
Q (5 - 7).
La Traviata G-6, Reguliersbreestraat 43, tel. (+31)
206 24 60 41. This typi cal, simpl e I talian restaurant
gi ves no more than you mi ght expect: tasty pi zza and
pasta and even a small variety of steaks. The service and
cleanliness is a bi t lacking and ranges between bad and
very bad, but La Traviata tends to be packed anyway due
to i ts low prices and high quali ty food. Wai ting times can
exceed 20 minutes, so you might consider take away. They
usuall y make your food right away when you keep staring
at the pizza man. The misto del chefo and the speciali ty
of the house - pizza La Traviata - are both worth trying.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10
- 15). TJAGKS
Japanese
Szanka Teppanyaki Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel
Okura), tel. (+31) 206 78 74 50, www.sazanka.nl.
Banish any ideas you mi ght have of theatri cal cl owns
wi th toothy smil es catching shrimp in their whi te hats.
Al though the food at Sazanka is prepared at teppanyaki
tables, Chef Masashi Nonaka and his team concentrate
on the cuisine so any thrill you might get by watching them
work their magic is purel y secondary. All of the meat and
seafood is as fresh as i t can get, but we recommend the
Japanese Wagyu beef wi th a generous serving of sake
on the side. Dont miss the green tea ice cream. QOpen
18:30 - 22:00. (30 - 50). A
Yamazato Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel Okura), tel.
(+31) 206 78 83 51, www.yamazato.nl. The best time to
visit the onl y Japanese restaurant in Europe with a Michelin
star is in the spring when the cherry blossoms in its private
garden are in bloom. But even if you dine here in the dead
of winter you wont be disappointed with the classic Sukiya-
style interior, the staff in authentic kimono or the traditional
Kaiseki cuisine. When the restaurant first opened in the
1970s it flew local fish suppliers to Japan to show them how
seafood was supposed to be presented for consumption,
which means that the fish they now serve is up to Japanese
standards and the more exotic additions to the menu are
flown in from Japan. You can also order a traditional breakfast
if you reserve it in advance. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00
- 21:30. (40 - 80). PA
Mexican
Guadalupe F-7, Prins Hendrik Kade 92, tel. (+31)
204 20 61 14. Chunky wooden tables, leather placemats,
genuine calfskin booths and Mexican music playing in the
background: this South of the Border steakhouse has all of
the kitsch thoroughly covered. But even if you dont like grilled
Argentine meat, burritos, chimichangas or tapas, Guadalupe
can also rustle up Dutch and English breakfasts, pancakes
and omelettes not to mention a good selection of interna-
tional desserts including banana splits. The service is super
friendl y, theres plenty of beer on draught and even a decent
wine list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (10 - 20). A
Los Pilones E-4, Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat 4 - 6,
tel. (+31) 206 20 03 23, info@lospilones.com, www.
lospilones.com. Al though quite colourful, and definitel y not
lacking in the dcor department, Los Pilones chose to forgo
the usual embellishments of sombreros and cacti in favour of
Mexican wrestling memorabilia including a giant mural of one
of the sports icons. The menu is limited to tortillas, tacos and
enchiladas, but the food is good and the salsa that comes
with the gratis chips is surprisingl y spicy. Naturall y, you can
order plenty of tequila, like Los Pilones, and Dos Equis and
Negra Modello beers in addition to the ubiquitous Corona. Get
here earl y or youll be stuck on the wrong side of the border.
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon.
Also at Kerkstraat 63, tel. (+31) 203 20 46 5. (20 - 25).
PTJAGBK
North African
Ranara Polonceaukade 40 (Westergasfabriek), tel.
(+31) 204 86 71 09, www.rainarai.nl. Its no mirage. The
lonel y brick building at the far end of the Westergasfabriek
is a cosy oasis from the otherwise bland surroundings of
empty space on one side and boring residential housing
blocks across the street. Let the aroma of North African
spices emanating from the open-plan kitchen lure you inside
for a culinary experience you wont soon forget. Al though
you can try traditional tagines as main courses, you might
get a broader introduction to this exotic cuisine by ordering
the chefs special mezze menu that includes five different
dishes. In the summer you can also sit outside on carpets
and enjoy a mint tea in the sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon. (20). B
Hang out i n l ocal Amster-
dam pubs long enough, as
we have, and youl l come
across a deep, dark Dutch
secret. Not unlike their Ger-
man nei ghbours across
the border, the Dutch have
questionable taste in music.
Sacchari ne songs about
loves lost accompanied by piano, guitar and oc-
casionally also saxophone scores can have you
asking for the bill before the beer foam touches
your lips. To make another unfortunate German
comparison, which locals definitely wont appreci-
ate, its like listening to David Hasselhof sing, but
when he has a bad cold or a hangover.
Dutch crooners
32
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Pancakes
Saras Pancake House E-5, Raadhuisstraat 45, tel.
(+31) 203 20 06 62, www.saraspancakehouse.nl. Al-
though the use of the word house is a benign stretch of the
imagination, Saras is a little caf with a big menu. In fact, your
coffee or tea could go cold by the time you read it from start
to finish, but needless to say you can order any savoury or
sweet pancake possible or try the English, Dutch or American
breakfasts for roughl y 10. The place was empty when we
arrived and the staff looked a little flustered upon seeing us,
but they quickly put on their game faces and got into the swing
of things. QOpen 08:30 - 22:30. (7 - 10). A
The Pancake Bakery E-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel.
(+31) 206 25 13 33, www.pancake.nl. Al though this
cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tourist trap, especiall y
given its close location to the throngs of visitors at the Anne
Frank House, it serves scores of authentic Dutch pancakes
and omelettes and thats pretty much it. In other words, a
very simple, yet popular concept. Each of its marble-topped
tables has a big ceramic bucket of local syrup with a wooden
spoon as well as a container of powdered sugar, the walls
are covered in Amsterdam memorabilia and the low timber
ceilings are simpl y charming, but the aroma of pancakes on
the griddle can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order
them with bacon, onions and cheese, with ice cream and cin-
namon or dozens of other toppings either sweet or savoury.
QOpen 12:00 - 21:30. (8 - 15).
Pizza
La Perla D-5, Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 14, tel. (+31) 206
24 88 28, www.pizzaperla.nl. A couple of guys franticall y
stoke a wood-fuelled brick pizza oven to keep up with the
large demand for thin-crust pizzas that have locals queued
up outside. But this isnt a fancy, sit-down establishment,
al though it does offer two counters and some stools, which
are almost always occupied. On weekend nights, people order
their gourmet pizzas baked with real Mozzarella di Bufala di
Campana cheese and then sip a glass of wine or an Italian
Dolimiti micro brew outside until one of the master bakers
runs over with their order. Most people, already worked up
into a frenzy by the wonderful aromas, eat it right there on the
street. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. (10 - 12) AW
Quick eats
Al Ponte Meeuwenlaan 2 (IJplein), tel. (+371) 642
08 74 82, www.alponte.nl. Al though lots of Amsterdam
cafs provide canalside seating, this self-proclaimed Italian
espresso kiosk offers a vista of the entire IJ river. Located
at the harbour where the free ferries reach the IJplein from
Central Station, Al Ponte allows its patrons to enjoy delicious
Italian coffee and food as well as plenty of fresh air. All of its
nearl y 20 sandwiches are made with authentic ingredients
including Parma ham, pancetta and provolone and cost onl y
around 5. Ferries leave roughl y every 10 minutes so why
not see Amsterdam from a new perspective while eating or
drinking Italian delicacies prepared by a woman whos pas-
sionate about her work. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. BS
Burger Bar G-6, Reguliersbreestraat 9 BG, tel. (+31)
203 30 59 68, www.burger-bar.nl. To put it simpl y: the
best burgers in Amsterdam. Why go for the rainforest-cutting
fast food chains next door when Burger Bar makes the next
best thing to a burger off the barby. Its niche is a simple cre-
ate-your-own burger concept where you choose the type of
meat you want (Irish beef, Black Angus, Phill y steak or even
Kobe), then your toppings and finall y some fries and a drink.
Sometimes annoying techno music seems to clash with the
atmosphere, but given the quality of the burgers, well forgive
them. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at
Kolksteeg2, tel. (+31) 206 24 90 49. JAGKSW
Steakhouses
Alber tos Uruguayan Steakhouse F-8, Kor te
Leidsedwarsstraat 26, tel. (+31) 206 24 00 95. Al-
though steakhouses are a dime a dozen around Leidseplein,
we were intrigued by the geographical distinction of i ts claim
to Uruguayan cuisine. Weve never been there, but i t seems
that according to Alberto, at least, most dishes lean toward
beef in the 20 - 30 range. I f you have a problem wi th red
meat you can also opt for a tuna or swordfish steak, but
cheapskates and travel wri ters can also choose the special
which includes a rare steak, big baked potato and a salad
for onl y 12.95 so hats off to Alberto. The interior is also
exceptional: a sunken dark red candleli t affair wi th a huge
fireplace as i ts centrepiece. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (15
- 30). A
Toro Dorado A-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 22, tel.
(+31) 204 21 86 95, table@torodorado.com, www.
torodorado.com. This is not your average steakhouse. But
what can you expect when the beef youre served is treated
like royalty and fed on a steady diet of beer and sake to create
the perfect amount of fat and marbling? The lucky heifers also
get a daily massage from a personal assistant. Unfortunately,
the restaurant staff arent as attentive, but when the tender
Kobe beef arrives you wont care. Naturally, all of this livestock
pampering doesnt come cheap, but the meal was one of the
best weve had in a long time and thats saying a lot. QOpen
17:00 - 24:00. Also at A-1, Spuistraat 3d, tel. (+31) 204 21
86 95. (25 - 30). PTJAGBKXW
That the Dutch are a frugal lot has never been up
for debate, but, as it turns out, this affects your
lifestyle as much as it does theirs. Although it
could just be a much deserved backlash against
lending and banking institutions in the wake of
the financial crisis, more and more cafs and bars
are reluctant to accept credit and bank cards at
their establishments. In less extreme cases,
restaurants require a minimum bill of at least 10
- 20 to accept a card as they have to pay a com-
mission for these transactions. Still other places
only accept cash, while major supermarkets in the
city centre such as Albert Heijn only accept local
Dutch bankcards. The moral of the story is clear:
make sure you always have some cash on you
because the Dutchman pouring your beer behind
the bar wants to save 0.50.
Cash or credit?
RESTAURANTS
33
RESTAURANTS
Thai
Bird B-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14 42, www.
thai-bird.nl. This Thai restaurant was one of the first ethnic
eateries to open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it
claims to prepare authentic meals that are even better than
the stuff youd get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure, but
it might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve some of
the best fresh green and red curries you can get in Amsterdam
with as much white rice as you can eat. The interior is rather
less authentic, but even Christmas lights mixed with plastic
Buddhas cant spoil a trul y satisfying meal at Bird. QOpen
17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 17). PTJAGKS
Chao Phraya B-1, Nieuwmarkt 8 - 10, tel. (+31) 204 27
63 34. The popularity of this restaurant may owe more to
its prime location on the Nieuwmarkt, especiall y in summer,
than to its lacklustre service, which was curt and lacking the
smile for which the Thai people are so famous. The red and
green curries, seafood and assorted fried rice dishes are,
however, tasty and free wi-fi and sports on TV are also noth-
ing to sneeze at. The shrimp with noodles dinner was huge,
but a bit short on the delicious sea creatures. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (12 - 18). ABW
Song Kwae B-2, Kloveniersburgwal 14a, tel. (+31)
206 24 25 68, info@songkwae.nl, www.songkwae.
nl. This restaurant has been serving Thai dishes on the
Nieuwmarkt since 1995. Try delicious, snappy servings of
traditional curries and rice in an authentic atmosphere that
includes loud screams from the kitchen, Thai pop music and
an androgynous waiter/waitress. Song Kwaes onl y flaw is
not the restaurant itself, but its lesser competitors in the
same neighbourhood that vie for i ts customers. QOpen
13:00 - 22:30. (12 - 17). PJAGB
Tibetan
Snow Lion E-4, Haarlemmerstraat 50, tel. (+31) 204
22 77 76, snowlionrestaurant@gmail.com. The otherwise
ordinary beige interior of this restaurant is punctuated by co-
lourful images of the Buddha on one side and the Dalai Lama
on the other. The waitress dressed in traditional garb had
decidedl y Tibetan features, which gave us our first clue that
we may have come to the right place. Order classic drinks like
butter tea or something with a little more kick and then move
on to vegetarian or meat dishes with curry, noodles or rice
or try the special beef dish which was incredibl y spicy - just
the way we like it. But dont worry. The staff are kind enough
to ask how hot you like your food when they take your order.
Complimentary spicy, deep-fried noodles on each table were
also a nice touch. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00. (15).
Turkish
Bazar H-8, Albert Cuypstraat 182, tel. (+31) 206 75
05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.com. Located in a huge
space that appears to be a former church in the middle of
Amsterdams most famous street market, Bazar offers a huge
menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle Eastern and North
African dishes too numerous to mention here. Suffice it to say,
that you can get anything from kebabs, falafel and hummus to
exotic seafood and lots of cuisine with tangy harissa sauce.
Dine under enormous Moroccan-style lamps on the second
floor balcony or below multicoloured flashing Christmas lights
on the ground floor. The food is refreshingl y affordable and
the atmosphere is friendl y and casual. Despite the Islamic
dcor, plenty of beer, wine and spirits can be ordered at the
central bar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat
09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12). A
Upmarket
Ciel Bleu Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel Okura), tel.
(+31) 206 78 74 50, www.cielbleu.nl. You could hardly
think of a better setting for a French restaurant with two Mi-
chelin stars than the 23rd floor of the five-star Hotel Okura.
Its renowned executive chef, Onno Kokmeijer, uses only fresh,
seasonal ingredients when preparing his meals and consults
often with the restaurants sommelier to create the perfect
balance between food and wine. The so-called Chefs Table
where diners sit at a u-shaped marble counter next to the
kitchen is an experience serious foodies shouldnt pass up.
QOpen 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (65 - 95) A
DVijff Vlieghen A-2, Spuistraat 294 - 302, tel. (+31)
205 30 40 60, www.d-vijffvliegen.com. Dont let the odd
insect theme throw you. The Five Flies is actuall y an upmar-
ket restaurant housed in an historic building on the Spuistraat.
Al though starters begin at around 20 a piece, you should
bear in mind that it boasts four original Rembrandt etchings,
not to mention a Golden Era interior of Delft tiles and gil t
leather walls. Chef Jeroen Groot specialises in Dutch cuisine
with a modern twist like suckling pig cutlets with vadouvan
gravy. QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. (30). A
Vietnamese
Vietnam Restaurant B-1, Zeedijk 57 (Red Light), tel.
(+31) 206 38 62 34. Although this green and gold restaurant
offers plenty of Chinese dishes too, it also offers Vietnamese
classics like pho soup and bun thom thit nuong cha gio
which reall y isnt as complicated as it sounds. Its basicall y
vermicelli with roast pork, shrimp, spring rolls and lettuce
served in a big bowl with a vinegar chilli sauce on the side.
Bear in mind that some of the noodle dishes, like the one just
mentioned, are served cold. Q (8 - 18) A
Cafs
Beurs van Berlage A-2, Damrak 277 (entrance from
Beursplein), tel. (+31) 205 31 33 55, www.beursvanber-
lage.nl/caf. If youd like to see where locals eat, drink and
chat over beer, wine, breakfast food and gourmet sandwiches,
then this li ttle slice of history housed in the monumental
Beurs van Berlage building is the place to go. Not onl y can
you get a good meal, but you can also admire this legendary
example of Amsterdam School architecture and design from
the inside wi th i ts vaul ted ceilings and characteristic tile
tableaux by Jan Toorop. The acoustics of the hall makes for
a boisterous meal among Amsterdammers, but bear in mind
that its often difficul t to get a seat at lunch, unless you visit
the outside terrace in summer. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. (8 - 15). AB
Caf Fonteyn B-2, Nieuwmarkt 13 - 15, tel. (+31) 204
22 35 99, www.cafefonteyn.nl. The faded floral print
wallpaper and wobbl y chairs might make one suspect that
Fonteyn has fallen on hard times, but that couldnt be farther
from the truth. A laid back atmosphere, a good selection of
beers including one or two brews from the IJ brewery and a
huge summer terrace on the Nieuwmarkt make it popular
with locals and tourists alike, especiall y bohemian 20-some-
things. You can also order vitamin drinks, 100% fruit juices
like apple-rhubarb and cocktails after 16:00. Sandwiches and
Dutch snacks can also be had, but it doesnt serve proper
dinners. An iced cappuccino does, however, hit the spot on
a hot and sunny day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 03:00. BW
Caf Heffer A-1, Oudebrugsteeg 7, tel. (+31) 204 28
44 88, www.heffer.nl. Al though lots of establishments
claim to be grand cafs in Holland, Heffer trul y lives up to
this illustrious title. Porcelain beer taps, ceramic jenever jugs,
antique tile floors and gigantic chandeliers hanging from high
ceilings make this elegant place a favouri te among beer
connoisseurs who need a break from dusty brown bars. The
selection of brews is excellent, but many people come for the
delicious cuisine and great desserts. Live sports are often
shown on the big screens. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. (5 - 15). A
Caf Kobalt F-4, Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59,
www.cafekobalt.nl. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and
late night cocktails, this incredibly popular eating and drinking
establishment is located in a medieval building with, rough,
worn floors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typi-
call y gabled exterior not far from the station. Locals know
that a table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and
even in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy affordable Dutch
and international cuisine not to mention a good selection of
draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. You can also
listen to DJs on Friday nights and live jazz on Sundays from
17:00. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun
10:00 - 01:00. (8 - 15). AIEB
Caf Van Zuylen A-2, Torensteeg 4 - 8, tel. (+31) 206
39 10 55, www.cafevanzuylen.nl. This quiet, yet popular
caf offers a bright interior with great views, wood tables and
hardwood floors as well as wood benches along the walls so
you can get to know your neighbours better. Al though Van
Zuylen serves sandwiches and toasties we recommend its
brownies, cakes or, better yet, one of its breakfasts from a
standard continental to fried eggs and bacon. In the evening
locals come for wine, cocktails and draught beer until after
midnight. The caf is actually split in two parts, so if one is too
crowded just try the one next door. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (5 - 12). A
Caf Wheels F-6, Wolvenstraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 22 86
73. This casual caf decorated in the Dutch fashion, meaning
its tabletops are covered with rugs, is a good place to take a
break for a cheap breakfast cooked by its friendl y owner who
often sings as he fries eggs in the kitchenette. Drink a coffee
or something stronger with a magazine to the tempting sound
of sizzling bacon or have a seat outside on this quiet shopping
street. Homemade burgers, BLTs and other sandwiches as
well as a soup of the day are also available. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00. (5 - 9). BW
De Duvel H-9, Eerste van der Helststraat 59 - 61, tel.
(+371) 206 75 75 17, www.deduvel.nl. Al though most
of the interior is of a milk chocolate hue, you could hardl y call
De Duvel a brown bar. This popular caf has a classy interior
of dark hardwood floors, chic, yet comfortable, couches, an
incredibl y long mirror on one wall and giant black and white
photos at the back. During the day you can eat simple, af-
fordable soups and sandwiches, while in the evening dishes
become a bi t more upmarket wi th seasonal offerings like
halibut carpaccio and rib eye of veal with barnaise sauce. The
beer selection is also nothing to sneeze at and its candlelit
tables spill out onto the street via sliding doors in the summer.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Mon 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (6 - 15). AB
George Deli U.S.A. H-7, Utrechtsestraat 17, tel. (+31)
203 30 01 71, www.cafegeorge.nl. This impressive bistro
not far from Rembrandtplein is located above the posh Marqt
supermarket and it offers a black and white interior that in-
cludes a huge counter bar and tabletops made of marble. You
can drop by any time of the day and order great breakfasts
like eggs Benedict or Florentine, freshl y made sandwiches
from classic Ruebens and BLTs to lox and bagels or spend
a little more money and splurge on oysters, lobster or king
crab with a glass of Champagne or shot of Grey Goose vodka.
Gourmet coffee and tempting desserts like brownies and
carrot cake are also on the menu. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
(5 - 10). A
Grand Caf l Opera B-2, Rembrandtplein 27 - 29, tel.
(+31) 206 20 47 54, www.l-opera.nl. We came here on
the recommendation of a local museum employee, and would
have to agree that its worth a visit for the excellent people
watching opportunities alone - both inside and on its summer
terrace. l Opera is the kind of place where you can spend the
better part of a day with a good book, a cappuccino and a
snack, but its also good for a full breakfast, lunch or dinner.
You can sip sparkling wine as the local ladies do or come in the
evening for beer and cocktails. The original Art Deco features
and an original wooden Wurlitzer upstairs help to create an
atmosphere trul y worthy of its title of grand caf. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. (10 - 20). AB
34
CAFS
Uitsmij ter: a Dutch classic Martins Zaprauskis
Heineken Hoek F-7, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 1 - 3
(entrance from Leidseplein), tel. (+31) 206 27 77 44.
Although its grand in both size and location, this massive caf
is actually quite casual and relaxed. A simple menu of breakfast
food, sandwiches, big salads and some typical mains is on of-
fer as well as a childrens section that includes pancakes and
spaghetti. In the evenings the place is packed for the cocktail
hour and its difficult to get a seat here at the weekend, espe-
cially on the terrace in the summer. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri
10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (7 - 15). AB
Ovidius A-2, Spuistraat 137 - 139, tel. (+31) 206 20 89
77, www.ovidius.nl. Located in the grand setting of a former
post office building designed by renowned Dutch architect Cor-
nelis Hendrik Peters in 1900, Ovidius offers a grand interior on
three levels and a menu of healthy salads, sandwiches, uitsmi-
jter and some international main courses. Beer and cocktails
are also on offer if youre looking for something stronger than
a cappuccino. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (10 - 15). A
t Nieuwe Kaf A-2, Eggertstraat 8/Dam, tel. (+31)
206 27 28 30, www.nieuwe-kafe.nl. Just look for the huge
terrace next to the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) overlooking
the Dam. Youll have great views of the palace and all of the
usual bustle on the square, but bear in mind that youll also
pay a little more for your sandwich, salad or burger given its
prominent location. That said, the uitsmijter with roast beef
was one of the best weve had and thats saying quite a lot.
The interior is surprisingly modern with sharp lines, a grey and
black colour scheme and shiny, sil ver upholstered pleather
chairs. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. (10 - 14). B
Villa Zeezicht A-2, Torensteeg 7, tel. (+31) 206 26 74
33. This charming caf is decorated with an eclectic mix of
cuckoo clocks, brass chandeliers, modern paintings and even
a stuffed stags head, yet somehow it all seems to fit. The
worn wooden benches and parquet floors also lend a cosy
vibe, but its best feature is the excellent view of the canal
and the small square outside, as well as a great summer
terrace. Classic dishes like uitsmijter for breakfast, soups
and sandwiches for lunch and pastas for dinner can all be had
here. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (8 - 12). AB
Classic cafs
Caf Americain F-8, Leidsekade 97, tel. (+31) 205 56
30 00. Located on the ground floor of one of Amsterdams
most historic hotels, the Caf Americain serves upmarket
cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner and al though an eve-
ning meal can cost you dearl y, you can get eggs Benedict for
under 10. Its jazz brunches and high tea are also tempting,
but many people, especiall y tourists, come here to soak up
the old world atmosphere of its grand interior, which is a mix
of both Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles that includes murals,
stained glass and fantastic views of the fountain outside.
Locals sip coffee and peruse newspapers and magazines at
the reading table at the far end. Q (10 - 30). AB
Caf de Zwart A-3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24
65 11. This tiny, classic old word caf boasts an inticate,
multicoloured tile floor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet
table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed
gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can order
coffee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian draught
beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sandwiches are also
on offer as well as a large outdoor terrace with great views
of the hubbub on the square. Given its prime location, Caf
de Zwarts food and drink are surprisingl y cheap. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00. B
35
CAFS
Caf Scheltema A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242,
tel. (+31) 206 23 23 23. This classic Dutch caf, brown
bar and beerhall is so authentic i ts a virtual museum of
Amsterdam eating and drinking cul ture. I ts worn wooden
tables, floors and wall panneling have been around for ages,
not to mention the antique memorabilia that seem to cover
every available space. An old stove in the centre of the room
keeps patrons warm on cold days or perhaps its the jenever
and a good selection of Low Country beers that keeps the
chill away. Snacks, sandwiches, soups and local main courses
are available as well as salads. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (7 - 18).
Caf Schiller G-6, Rembrandtplein 24, tel. (+31) 206 24
98 46. Caf Schiller is an average sized eating and drinking es-
tablishment with a big history and a favourite among young and
old Amsterdammers, as well as a hang out for the citys fourth
estate - the stingiest lot of tipplers youll find. Old portraits of
venerated men adorn its elegant walls, yet the atmosphere is
friendly, relaxed and open. The whole range of IJ microbrews is
available in bottles and the wine list is simple and within reach
of average citizens and lowly travel writers. The cuisine is more
upmarket and you can try suckling pig or cod fillet stuffed with
oysters. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00
- 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. (15 - 20). A
De Kat in de Wijngaert E-4, Lindengracht 160HS, tel.
(+31) 206 22 45 54. This casual caf and bar is often full at
the weekend when many a local comes in for a big breakfast,
a beer and the days paper. Seating at one of half a dozen
worn wooden tables is limited so singles are encouraged to
bell y up to the long, red granite counter for food and drink or
a cup of coffee and some pleasant conversation. Try one of
its toasted sandwiches or a Dutch fry up. QOpen 10:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (7 - 12). B
Koepel Caf A-1, Kattengat 1 (Marriott Renaissance
Hotel). This caf and bar is connected to the five-star Mar-
riott Renaissance, but al though the service and food are
top notch, thankfull y its comfortable old world atmosphere
hasnt been modernised by this large hotel chain, which is
refreshing. Koepel specialises in hamburgers made wi th
Aberdeen Angus beef, but also offers plenty of local food
like uitsmijter, pea soup and bitterballen. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. (8 - 15). AB
The Dutch love their cof-
fee. On average they slurp
three cups of Java per
person per day. This, by
the way, is only an aver-
age. The real addicts can
easi l y knock back 20
cups a day. This puts the
Netherlands among the
top 10 bi ggest cof fee
drinking nations in the world. Unchallenged at
number one are the Finns, who, apart from liters of
vodka and other home distilled hooch, apparently
also drink almost twice as much coffee as the
Dutch. The oldest coffee house in the Netherlands
is located in The Hague, where the black liquid
gold has been poured since 1664.
Caffeine nation
36
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Amsterdams nightlife needs no introduction, but needless
to say youll find whatever youre looking for in this legend-
ary vice capital from fun coffeeshops, raging nightclubs and
packed Irish pubs to classic Dutch brown cafs, brew pubs
and Belgian beer bars. Erotic entertainment like peep shows,
live sex performances and the hard-working Red Light girls
are also never far away.
Bars
Balls F-6, Reguliersdwarstraat 37. This aptl y named pub
doesnt have much to do with sports or, in our estimation,
courageous men, but it does offer three red fel t pool tables
on the second floor for 2 per game. On the ground floor you
can expect a typicall y Dutch brown bar with a not so typical
copper-topped bar with loads of stools. Bavaria beer is poured
from billiard ball taps, but if youd like something better Duvel
is available in bottles. Rock music seems to rule the realm
here, but you can forgo the guitar chords in the smoking room.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
Biblos F-7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21
70. It would take the better part of a day just to describe all
of the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls
at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or so
licence plates from around the globe, currency both young
and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles, bowling
pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else can we
say about the atmosphere? Its smoky, packed with both
foreigners and locals and fun. Al though plenty of beers and
cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular. QOpen
21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AX
Black Tiger Bar B-1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 23, tel.
(+31) 206 22 72 46. This place has little to do with tigers
save the cheesy stripes painted on the ceiling high above
the bar. Huge murals of Bowie, Bono and Lenon cover one
wall while Sinead, Lennox and Grace Jones occupy the space
behind the bartenders. You can order a Heineken and smoke
cigarettes to your hearts content while listening to contem-
porary and classic rock music, which is a welcome change to
some of the crap played at other bars in the area. Pool tables
and a coffeeshop are available downstairs, but wed just like
to remind you that theres a huge painting of Grace Jones
here. Talk about your Red Light fetishes! QX
Brandstof D-6, Marnixstraat 357, tel. (+31) 204 22 08
13, www.bar-brandstof.nl. Located across the street from
the fire department, Brandstof (flammable materials) is abso-
lutely incandescent at the weekend and given the huge crowds
that congregate here, this trendy caf-cum-club could definitely
be a fire hazard. Youll have to wait a while until you finally reach
the bar, which is dimly illuminated by two large street lamps, so
order enough drinks to keep you wet for a while. Its popular
with a beautiful, yet casually dressed clientele of 20- and 30-
somethings in the evenings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00
- 03:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. AB
Caf de Koe E-7, Marnixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25
44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl. We really like this laid back place
where you can enjoy a good brew or cocktail with a board
game during the day or attempt to mark your territory among
dozens of rowdy patrons at night. Its kind of like walking into a
friends house party except your best buddy probably doesnt
have a giant white mural of a cow in his living room or glittering
wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar. Al ternative
rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good
thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below can
bring on a premature case of the munchies. QOpen 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. A
Caf Emmelot B-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 52, tel.
(+31) 206 22 16 26. This little pubs popularity is no doubt
due to its good location on a major Red Light thoroughfare
near some of the best window shopping, al though you could
make the argument that the loud 1980s music reall y brings
em in. Others probably appreciate that the smoking ban isnt
enforced here, but we personally only came for the cheap late
night drinks and the pool table. In any event, Emmelot also
provides a big TV and if you beg the bar staff they might even
put on a football match. Ladies need to ask for the key to crap-
per at the bar, but the mens trough is open to all. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BX
Caf Heffer F-4, Oudebrugsteeg 7, tel. (+31) 204 28 44
88, www.heffer.nl. Although lots of establishments claim to
be grand cafs in Holland, Heffer trul y lives up to this illustri-
ous title. Porcelain beer taps, ceramic jenever jugs, antique
tile floors and gigantic chandeliers hanging from high ceilings
make this elegant place a favourite among beer connoisseurs
who need a break from dusty brown bars. The selection of
brews is excellent, but many people come for the delicious
cuisine and great desserts. Li ve sports are often shown
on the big screens. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 03:00. (5 - 15). A
Caf Mooy A-1, Kolksteeg 12, tel. (+31) 206 24 02
94. This historic bar has been around since 1726, but unlike
many of its brethren, this brown bar has adjusted to the times.
Now this could be good or bad depending on your point of
view, but we certainl y winced having seen a beautiful, Delft
tile fireplace desecrated by the placement of slot machines
on either side of it. However, everyone who enters is greeted
with a heartfel t goede avond!, the music is generic enough
to please most tastes and a pool table is al ways a major plus
in our estimation. The beer selection is also pretty decent,
Dutch snacks can be arranged and its open late. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. A
Caf Sound Garden F-6, Marnixstraat 164 - 166, tel.
(+31) 206 20 28 53, www.cafesoundgarden.nl. Being
old Seattle sound enthusiasts oursel ves, we had to come
to this dive bar to see what all the fuss was about. Would
you believe it that as we walked in Soundgarden was blaring
from the speakers? Okay, i t was actuall y Audioslave, but
pretty damn close. If youd like to see what an old squatters
bar probabl y looked like before they sold out (but with more
Americans), then this is the place to go. You can play pool
or foosball inside or hit the private canalside terrace, which
must infuriate the posh neighbours next door in the evenings
when things heat up. Inside theres also a smoking room,
not to mention a huge painting of Henry Rollins performing
in naught but his undies. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
15:00 - 03:00. EBX
Dam Square by night Martins Zaprauskis
NIGHTLIFE
37
NIGHTLIFE
37
Caf Wiener B-1, Lange Niezel 8, tel. (+31) 206 24 58
09. Wiener is a real drinking mans bar, which is perhaps the
reason we stumbled in here on our way home from a long night
out. The area behind the bar is crammed with ancient cas-
sette tapes and photos of half forgotten evenings, while large
sized panties and bras are stapled to ceiling - a memento of
earlier days when buxom women once frequented the place.
Today its a venue for smoking cigarettes, heavy drinking,
darts and Ajax football. Its also open quite late. QX
Cocos Outback B-3, Thorbeckeplein 8 - 12, tel. (+31)
206 27 24 23. Cocos is an Australian pub situated on the
touristy Rembrandtplein. That should sum it up for you, but
to elaborate this means a bar full of easy going, drunk travel-
lers with a mix of both sports on the TV and pop music in
the background. The staff is relaxed yet quick and seem to
encourage the party atmosphere. The ki tchen prepares
elaborate pub food and even a hearty brunch if you happen to
wake up hungover on a bench outside. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 03:00. PAUGBKX
De Deugniet A-1, Oudebrugsteeg 12, tel. (+31) 206 20
44 27, www.heffer.nl. This cosy bar is so clean it looks like
you could eat off the beautiful tile floor, not that we recom-
mend it. Al though De Deugniet certainl y has an antique feel,
i t doesnt have that forlorn and worn look so common to
Amsterdam pubs. In fact, it has plenty of interesting design
features including intricate Art Deco chandeliers and lamps
as well as the Bacchanalian scenes depicted on the ceiling.
You can watch sports on TV and listen to modern pop music,
which are of course its biggest drawbacks, and its choice
of Venloosch and Lindeboom draught beers is refreshing.
QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00,
Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
De Schreierstoren (VOC Caf) F-8, Prins Hendrik-
kade 94/95, tel. (+31) 204 28 82 91, www.schreier-
storen.nl. Located in an historic brick tower not far from the
Central Station, De Schreierstoren which is also associated
with the VOC (Dutch East India Company) is rusticall y deco-
rated and exudes a medieval air evident in its ancient timber
ceilings and old ceramic liqour kegs. The views arent what
one would call inspiring so take a seat in the back room for
canal vistas or on the expansive terrace outside. Palm and
Amstel are available on draught, but other bottled brews can
also be ordered. You can eat pancakes, tostis, apple pie and
even chicken satay not to mention a wide variety of the local
hooch - jenever. Q
Drink n Sink B-2, Warmoesstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206
27 01 25. Were not sure if the name is a greeting or a warn-
ing, but judging by the happy, inebriated crowds that occupy
the bar and its booths at night, its probabl y a little of both.
Scream past the ear-shattering classic rock or techno music
and order a Grolsch or a cocktail. Watch sports on several TVs,
escape the mayhem upstairs or play pool in the basement,
but if you think that the drink has sunk you, dont panic. Its
probably just the reflection from an improbable and unneces-
sary number of disco balls messing with your head. You have
to pay 0.50 for the dubious toilets downstairs. Q A
Lime Bar B-1, Zeedijk 104-BG, tel. (+31) 206 39 30
20. With lots of mirrors, disco balls and R&B and Michael
Jackson music, the Lime Bar works that old school retro-
style vibe to the fullest. With cheap cocktails, a small, cosy
lounge and a casual atmosphere, this bar at the Zeedijk will
guarantee a good night out - if the place doesnt get too
crowded, that is. Add this cool place to your pre-clubbing pub
crawl and you wont regret it. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. PJG
Louis Bar (Caf de Dam) A-2, Damstraat 4, tel.
(+31) 206 24 53 31, www.louisbar.hyves.nl. This place
claims to be Amsterdams smallest bar and it reall y is quite
tiny. Hundreds of beer coasters adorn the walls and just as
many football scarves dangle from the ceiling. American law
enforcement patches and plenty of Beatles memorabilia
also contribute to the dcor of this iconic watering hole just
off of Dam Square where classic rock seems to dominate
the musical landscape and the beer selection is decent, if
a bit pricey. A sign reads Tipping isnt a city in China and if
you do decide to leave your bartender some coins hell put
them in a wooden Ajax shoe behind the bar. Its a fun place to
meet fellow travellers as well as some locals. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BS
Parck E-9, Overtoom 428, tel. (+31) 204 12 53 35,
www.cafeparck.nl. Parck is what we would call shabby
chic. The main bar area has lots of worn wood, but also
bright whi te tables and funky red lamps above the bar. An
even bigger room is available in the back and what must
be the ul timate place to relax on a dreary Sunday. People
lay about on the largest couch weve ever seen and one of
the regulars even confided to us that hed taken a snooze
there earlier in the day. You can also play chess at one of
the tables or admire some of the modern art on the walls.
Cocktails like the l ychee dream and some good brews are
also tempting, but many come for i ts signature twinburger
made from 100% Maas Rhine IJsel beef - which is a mouthful
to pronounce, but very tasty. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 15:00 - 03:00. AB
Susies Saloon B-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 254, tel.
(+31) 206 22 89 12, www.susiessaloon.com. Look for
a sign of a cowgirl (Susie we presume) wi th a Stetson on her
head and si x-shooters in her hands to find this place that
looks more like a Nati ve American lodge than a Western
saloon. Dream catchers, totems and old photos of chiefs in
tradi tional dress adorn the walls, while football strips and
scarves are pinned to the ceiling hinting at Susies preferred
clientele. Burgers, sandwiches and big breakfasts are all
available as well as Heineken and Guinness on draught. You
can also play pool, darts or pinball and cigarette smokers
can hang out in a separate smoking room in the back. The
music leans toward hard rock and there are plenty of TVs
for sporting events. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. AB
Unless youre at an Irish pub or
sports bar where you can get a
proper pint or half liter mug, beer
glasses in the Netherlands tend
to come in dainty sizes more
suitable for children or ladies
who lunch. This does take some
getting used to. A man of 6ft and
over holding a 0.25l glass of
beer does look (how to put it dip-
lomatically?) a little effeminate.
Back home in England, Ireland,
Ameri ca or wherever i f your
mates spotted you drinking from such a puny glass, youd
probably feel like your sister just caught you trying on one
of her dresses, but in Amsterdam even longshoremen
and street tuffs swill their brews from these miniature tea
set receptacles. Relax. Youre in Holland now.
A farewell to pints
38
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
The Rock In and Roll Out Cafe F-7, Leidseplein
22. The photos of Pearl Jam and Led Zeppelin were reason
enough to stay for a drink, but the postcard behind the bar
of Batman and Robin passionatel y making out sealed the
deal. Classic, al ternati ve rock tunes and extreme sports
on the big screen took us back to our skate punk days
and i t onl y cost us one slightl y overpriced Affligem double,
but i t would be wrong to put a euro figure on a walk down
memory lane. The smoke and lack of space also took us
back to our wasted youth. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. ABX
Beach bars
Aquarius Strandpaviljoen Anton Schleperspad 10,
tel. (+31) 204 89 58 48, www.paviljoenaquarius.nl. The
Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) is to the people of
Amsterdam what Central Park is to New Yorkers. This green
urban oasis sprawls over 1,000 hectares making i t one of
the biggest ci ty parks in the world and De Nieuwe Meer
includes beauti ful wetlands bordered by small beaches.
The splendid views over the water and surrounding forest
are worth a visi t on their own, but i f youre looking for a beer
or a cocktail then this trendy beach bar is a brilliant place
to chill. The high tea is a must wi th i ts fresh scones and
the grilled rack of lamb served wi th mint sauce is heavenl y.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (14 - 18). TBK
Beer bars
Beer Temple A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 250, tel.
(+31) 206 27 14 27, www.beertemple.nl. The word
temple isnt mere hyperbole. If youre into American craft
brews you might just be tempted to drop to your knees in
awe and reverence at the sight of the huge blackboard that
lists hundreds of beers by such brewing heavyweights as
Samuel Adams, Saranac, Anchor, Brookl yn and Fl ying Dog.
Roughl y 20 beers are available on draught, including the
house Tempelbier, but most are in bottles. If youve had your
fill of ales and IPAs, you can try some rare and exotic libations
like the 32% Tactical Nuclear Penguin brew. Good pub grub
like wings, burgers, hot dogs and Trappist cheeses can also
be had here. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat
14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. ABW
Caf Belgique A-2, Gravenstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 25
19 74, www.cafe-belgique.nl. A couple of tables, a few
stools at the bar, two benches outside and thats about it for
seating in this tiny brown bar specialising in delicious Belgian
brews too numerous to mention by name. Rest assured, that
if youre a beer connoisseur the only complaint youll have here
is that the glasses are too small. Perhaps thats a blessing
given that most of the suds sold here weigh in somewhere
just below the 10% alcohol mark. Recommended. QOpen
14:00 - 01:00. EB
Caf de Spuyt E-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 86, tel.
(+31) 206 24 89 01, www.cafedespuyt.nl. Although loads
of restaurants and party bars are located at the opposite end
of the street, this less popular section is a slice of heaven for
connoisseurs of alcoholic beverages. De Spuyt is a beer bar,
but its two neighbours specialise in fine whiskies and wine.
This one room bar has such limited space that it stores beer
kegs below the red-cushioned seating along the left hand
wall, but then again thats probabl y not so unusual when
one takes into account that it serves roughl y 100 different
brews. Some snacks like Trappist cheese are also available.
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. B
De Zotte E-7, Raamstraat 29, tel. (+31) 206 26 86
94, www.dezotte.nl. A li ttl e hard to find, this Bel gian
caf is worth the effort i f you appreciate good beer, you
smoke like a chimney and dont mind shouting above the
din of revellers and the loud music in the evening. Al though
i t doesnt look much di fferent than a classic brown bar, at
night i ts clientele is seldom over the age of 25. Then again,
perhaps the pensioners do their imbibing during the day
before naptime. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00
- 03:00. BXW
Gollems Proeflokaal E-8, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel.
(+31) 206 12 94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. This is the last
of the iconic Gollem beer bars still in operation, but the bar-
tender did hint that its other former locations in the city centre
would eventually re-open, so keep your fingers crossed. In the
meantime you can take a 10-minute tram ride from the Central
Station (tram Nr.1) to this shrine dedicated to beer. If they dont
have your favourite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that
Gollem has it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar.
Dutch snacks can also be had as well as some dail y specials
written on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches over all
the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the shel ves
of glasses. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. AB
In de Wildeman A-1, Kolksteeg 3, tel. (+31) 206 38
23 48, fax (+31) 204 27 86 60, info@indewildeman.nl,
www.indewildeman.nl. Just look at the chalkboard above
the door to see whats on draught at one of Amsterdams
best beer bars, which is located in a former distillery. Even
brew hounds like us are a little overwhelmed in a place like
this, but thankfull y the friendl y staff can suggest one of the
nearl y 20 beers available on draught or perhaps one of the
200 brews In de Wildeman offers in bottles. If youre still not
convinced, the bartender will pour you a small sample to
taste before you order. The spacious interior consists of the
usual wooden tables, but also a black and white tiled floor
and a long green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and
cheese to frites are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
Old Nickel B-1, Nieuwe Brugsteeg 11, tel. (+31) 206
24 19 12, www.oldquarter.com/oldnickel. The ginger
coloured cat keeps watch over the Old Nickel from his perch
on the windowsill. Its one of the cosiest places weve come
across in Amsterdam and this is probabl y in large part due
to its old-fashioned maroon, blue and gold carpet that looks
remarkabl y good considering what it must have experienced
over the years. Intricatel y carved mens faces peer out at the
bar from the dark wood panelling and from the mantel above
the beautiful Delft tile fireplace, which unfortunatel y onl y of-
fers faux flames. An incredible selection of roughl y 70 beers
is available from 10% Trappist quadruples to strange organic
brews made without hops. If you have one too many strong
beers, you can al ways crash at its hotel upstairs. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00. A
Damrak buildings at night Ilse Ouwens
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39
On our l ate ni ght wanderi ngs
searchi ng for the per fect Am-
sterdam pub, we qui te li terall y
stumbled across some American
pilots from a major international
airline who, upon hearing of our
exalted task, took it upon them-
selves to help us on our quest.
Frequent fli ers who often drop
thei r l andi ng gear i n Hol l ands
most exciting city, they were more than happy to show
us some of their favourite watering holes. However, given
the fact that they had to operate heavy machinery the
next day, they could only show us a few of their favourite
hangouts. We hit cruising altitude and set our course for
the following venues:
Caf Belgique: one of the citys smallest pubs also of-
fers one of the widest selections of delicious Belgian
beer in Amsterdam.
Het Elfde Gebod: the 11th commandment (to enjoy life)
is a classic brown bar often full to the rafters with beer
connoisseurs and smokers.
Caf Casablanca: when we arrived at this tiny bar a 13-
piece band was playing some excellent music to a small,
but enthusiastic crowd.
Louis Bar: the captains had to hit the rack, but they
recommended this place just off the Dam as a must visit
for its good beer and friendly atmosphere.
Pilots as wingmen
t Arendsnest (The Eagles Nest) E-4, Herengracht
90, tel. (+31) 204 21 20 57, www.arendsnest.nl. This
unique pub serves an amazing variety of delicious, often
unknown beers brewed exclusi vel y at small Dutch craft
breweries. With around 350 different beers and another 250
seasonal brews, such as Bokbier, this is a paradise for beer
lovers and a trul y Dutch experience. In The Eagles Nest you
can not onl y taste but also learn about the beer from its
owner, Peter van der Arend, who is a certified beerologist.
The beer list is too long to make suggestions, so youll have
to get adventurous but bear in mind that many of the drinks
on draught have a high alcohol content and could make your
trip back to your hotel a little more interesting. QOpen 16:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. PJAG
Billiards & Pool
Club-8 C-7, Admiraal de Ruyterweg 56b, tel. (+31) 206
85 17 03, info@club-8.nl, www.club-8.nl. Its difficult not to
get distracted by all the sports on TV as you try to sink your
own ball in this modern pool caf. On the first floor youll find
a spacious, well-equipped club. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri
14:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00.
De Keu E-8, Eerste Helmerstraat 5 - 7, tel. (+31) 202 30
05 51, bas@vdvoort.nl, www.dekeu.nl. There are plenty of
pool tables here at one of Amsterdams oldest billiards halls.
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00.
Brew pubs
Brouwerij de Prael B-1, Warmoesstraat 15, tel. (+31)
204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. You can expect big wooden
tables and eight craft beers from the brewery next door at
this modest tasting room. All of its brews are given peoples
names like Mary, Johnny and Will y, so it should be easy to
keep track of which ones youve already tried. Beers are of
varying strengths and styles from German kolsch and Belgian
triples to classic wheat beer and even barley wine. Al though
its interior is quite simple it pokes a little fun at brown bars
by covering unlikel y surfaces like lamps and columns with
carpets, the way traditional Dutch bars cover their tabletops.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
Brouwerij t IJ J-4, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 203 20 17
86, www.brouwerijhetij.nl. You reall y have to want to find
this place. Thankfull y, we did, but our thirst for new brews is,
of course, the stuff of legends. Just look for the giant windmill
about a 20-minute walk northwest of the Artis Zoo along the
Hoogte Kadijk to find this microbrewery offering at least six
unique beers including something akin to a pilsner as well
as the spicy (their words) Columbus, which has an alcohol
content of 9%. The tasting room is functional and doesnt offer
much decoration or seating which is why most people choose
to imbibe at the picnic tables outside. Beers are remarkabl y
cheap, but onl y snacks are available so you might want to
pace yourself. Visit its website for information on brewery
tours and merchandise. QOpen 15:00 - 20:00. BS
De Bekeerde Suster (De Beiaard) B-2, Klove-
niersburgwal 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 204 23 01 12, www.
beiaardgroep.eu. Although this pub and microbrewery is part
of a chain of restaurants and cafs, its worn wooden interior
is warm and inviting and, with the exception of the tiled area
in the back that houses the copper beer vats, looks like its
been here for many years to say the least. In addition to local
and Belgian beers, The Converted Nun offers her own brews
including a blonde, a triple bock, a white beer and a seasonal
beer, all of which you can taste before ordering. Food is also
available including dail y specials for just under 10. QOpen
15:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
Brown bars
Aent Water B-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 2a, tel. (+31)
652 00 66 18. This tiny bar provides about as much space
as a closet, a walk-in at least, but when the sun comes out
its terrace spreads out over both sides of the street, which
affords casual drinkers a fantastic view of a hair pin turn of
the canal. Inside there isnt much to speak of apart from the
standard brown bar interior, but the beer selection is above
average. Try the delicious Affligem Belgian brew, which is,
sadl y, a bit expensive at a little over 4. Q B
Caf Berkhout H-8, Stadhouderskade 77, tel. (+31)
204 20 96 18, www.cafeberkhout.nl. The floors are worn,
yet sturdy, which is more than you can say for the shabby
tables and chairs or the ceiling that is stained with the ghosts
of parties past. So why bother writing about a brown bar that
appears to have seen better days? If youve ever been to the
Heineken Experience youll realise that this is the closest pub
to one of Amsterdams best attractions and therefore has no
trouble enticing patrons who want to whet their thirst before a
tour or to continue the experience with more Heineken beer,
which is the house brew here. Dutch snacks and soups are
also available as well as some seats outside. QOpen 10:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. AB
Caf Chris E-5, Bloemstraat 42, tel. (+31) 206 24 59
42, www.cafechris.nl. Onl y a fi ve-minute walk from the
Anne Frank House is a place that claims to be Amsterdams
oldest continuously running caf. Its said that the place came
into existence in 1624 as a public bar for the Westerkerks
construction workers who recieved their salaries here and
probabl y left most of it on the premises too. The selection
of beer is nothing special in comparison to the curiousities of
the place itself like the old toilet pull chain on the wall outside
the bathroom. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00,
Sun 15:00 - 21:00. JGB
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Caf De Doelen B-3, Kloveniersburgwal 125, tel.
(+31) 206 24 90 23. Theres sand on the floor, stained
glass Tiffany-style lamps hang from the ceiling, large mason
jars of nuts and marinated vegetables are stored next to the
beer taps and a carved bill y goats head watches everyone
disturbingl y from its perch above the bar. On the other hand,
De Doelen is firml y rooted in the 21st century. The coffee it
serves is produced by a fair trade collective in Bolivia, good
alternative music emanates from the speakers and youre not
allowed to smoke inside. Needless to say, the Belgian and
Dutch beers on draught are quite good and its small terrace
on the canal is tempting to any passer-by in the summer.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. B
Caf Eik en Linde I-5, Plantage Middenlaan 22, tel.
(+31) 206 22 57 16, www.eikenlinde.nl. Al though the
original Oak and Lime caf opened in 1865 in what is now
the Artis Zoo, its current incarnation a couple of blocks away
has been around since 1967. This classic brown bar is more
spacious than similar establishments and you even have to
go outside to smoke! Some excellent brews are available in
bottles and on draught for decent prices and you can order
soups, omelettes, steaks and other traditional Dutch food.
Relax on an intricatel y carved wooden bench, pet the bars
cat that often sleeps by the window or try to figure out how
locals can play pool on a table without pockets. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Closed
Sun. ABW
Caf Karpershoek A-1, Martelaarsgracht 2, tel.
(+31) 206 24 78 86. I t could very well be that you have
to be a person of the male persuasion to appreciate this
bar. Around since 1606 or 1629, depending on whom you
talk to, i t considers i tsel f to be Amsterdams oldest bar
and after checking out the shabby furni ture and sand-worn
floors i t wont get any argument from us. Roughl y 400 years
ago sailors and other rough characters could si t here and
admire the view of the ships on the IJ way before the train
station cut off this port ci ty from the water. Today you can
sip a local beer or jenever here wi th middle-aged men who
kiss one another on the cheek in manl y fashion. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00.
Caf Papeneiland A-1, Prinsengracht 2, tel. (+31)
206 24 19 89, www.papeneiland.nl. This unusual brown
bar dating back to 1642 offers great views of canals and
church spires from its excellent position at the picturesque
intersection of the Prinsengracht and the Brouwersgracht.
Inside youll find an antique interior of wood furniture, old blue
and white tiles on the walls and a beautiful, if a bit dusty, Delft
chandelier. Other outstanding dcor features include copper
bed warmers, an ornately decorated cast iron stove and white
Christmas lights strung from the high ceiling. Unlike other bars
of its genre, Caf Papeneiland also offers seating above the
claustrophobic bar where patrons are allowed to smoke. Sip
a jenever with one of the old-timers or order one of a handful
of beers on draught. Q X
Caf Pieper E-7, Prinsengracht 424, tel. (+31) 206 26
47 75. According to the plaque on the wall, and the bartender,
this ancient bar on the picturesque Prinsengracht has been
around since 1665 and having a look around the place the
onl y things that would make you think otherwise are the
modern music, current events posters and the shiny coffee
machine. Everything else in this classic brown bar, including its
worn floorboards, low timber ceiling and faded stained glass
windows, looks its age. Order a tasty local beer or maybe a La
Chouffe by the gas fire on a typical wet and rainy Amsterdam
day or grab a seat outside for a little sunshine and a smoke.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. B
Caf Slijterij Oosterling H-7, Utrechtsestraat 140, tel.
(+31) 206 23 41 40. This wonderful bar has been serving
thirsty Amsterdammers since 1877. A mix of young and elderly
patrons play cards, sip jenever or knock back strong Belgian
and Dutch double bocks here under the shadow of a huge
antique ad for Oosterling liquors at the far end. Huge barrels of
spirits decorate the right-hand wall and hang precariously over
the heads of the local clientele, but the bars most curious
feature is the height of its hip-high bar with matching stools
that look like a Tolkien-inspired tavern expecting Hobbits for
happy hour. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.
De Druif I-4, Rapenburgerplein 83, tel. (+31) 206 24 45
30. Al though the building supposedl y dates back to 1585,
the bar opened in 1631 making it one of Amsterdams old-
est. The views have changed, but in all likelihood the interior
hasnt experienced much tampering over the centuries and
thats the way that the middle-aged to elderl y patrons like
it. Wooden jenever barrels are lined up behind the bar and
the wooden table in the back room is covered with a carpet
in keeping with Hollands oddball interior design traditions.
A few interesting draught beers are available in addition to
local spirits and you can puff away on a cigar or a cigarette
with the rest of the old sal ts here. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00.
Closed Tue. BX
De Pilsener Club (De Engelse Reet) A-2, Begijnen-
steeg 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 17 77. Tucked away in a tiny
alleyway off the Kalverstraat, this simple brown bar is perhaps
best known for the fact that it reall y has no bar to speak
of. Polite male gentlemen in neckties pour a wide variety of
delicious brews from a back alcove/closet area lending this
dark room an odd, yet old world atmosphere. The peeling
wallpaper, wrinkled li thographs of Amsterdam and sand-
covered floor onl y add to the feeling that De Pilsener Club is
a time capsule that onl y locals and the occasional wayward
tourist bother to enter. But in our opinion, i ts a welcome
respi te from the international chains and big brands that
line the citys main shopping artery outside. QOpen 12:00
- 01:00. Closed Sun.
Het Elfde Gebod E-8, Zeedijk 5, tel. (+31) 630 62
63 73/(+31) 206 22 35 77, www.hetelfdegebod.
com. This place certainl y has character, not to mention a
bunch of characters smoking, drinking and talking loudl y to
one another. The Red Light district offers plenty of ancient
brown bars but this one distinguishes i tsel f wi th a great
selection of beer including Zwak, which is served in a hal f
yard. This confined space is also bursting wi th memorabilia,
most of i t wi th a religious connotation, which is appropriate
gi ven the bars name - the 11th Commandment or thou
shal t enjoy li fe. The wood panelling is incredibl y ornate
and i ts carved heads seem to come to li fe after an evening
of strong Belgian brews. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. X
t Loosje B-2, Nieuwmarkt 32 - 34, tel. (+31) 206 27
26 35. This popular watering hole that has been serving
Amsterdammers for over a century is not a standard brown
bar. For starters, it isnt very brown. In fact, it sports a colour-
ful old world tile floor and its walls are covered in elaborate
Dutch tile tableaux of old breweries, Amsterdam scenes
and alcohol ads. In addition to the tasty beers written on
the blackboard, the menu lists a whole two cocktails so you
can have a mojito or a caipirinha, but you should probabl y
whisper your order to the staff so the rest of the patrons
dont stare. Modern music is not uncommon and the snack
menu includes dim-sum and Indonesian balls, which we didnt
have the courage to order. t Loosje also has an impressive
terrace in the summer. QB
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41
Clubs
Club 8 C-7, Admiraal de Ruijterweg 56b, tel. (+31) 206
85 17 03, www.club-8.nl. What more could you wish for?
Club 8 is a restaurant, a pool hall and a graffiti-sprayed, ac-
cessible dance club on the upper floor that wouldnt be out
of place in the Berlin underground scene. Al though theres
usuall y sports playing on the screens on the restaurant
floor, you can al ways slip away upstairs where extravagant
electro parties like UNK and Fuck Yeah take place. When
you consider that you can enjoy dinner while playing pool or
ping pong, Club 8 could be your ticket to an insane night out,
especiall y if youre interested in avoiding the buzz of the city
centre. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00
- 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. PJUEGS
Club Escape B-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22
11 11, www.escape.nl. Dont let the name fool you. When
partying in Amsterdam, theres no real escaping this large
collection of clubs, unsubtl y situated at the Rembrandtplein.
Since 1986, Escape has been successfull y run by twin broth-
ers. The shrill house music in Escape Club wont appeal to
everyone, but you can move on to four other separate areas:
Deluxe, Studio, Caff and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway
because your caught between high school students and
tourists? For more class, you can al ways escape to Jimmy
Woos. QOpen Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00,
Sun 23:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE
Club Up F-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26-I, tel. (+31) 206
23 69 85, www.clubup.nl. Where would you go partying as
an artist in Amsterdam? Most would say De Kring, but thats
a members-only place. Club Up serves as a spin-off dance club
of De Kring, and the best part is: its open for everyone. With
paintings on the wall, a tight design and lounge couches next to
the dance floor, the club aims for diverse audiences on different
evenings. However, there isnt really anything that makes this
place stand out from other like-minded dance clubs. It might
also take you a while to locate the place, since the narrow
entrance is set between two tall buildings, which can make
finding Up quite a downer. QOpen Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PUG
Jimmy Woos F-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18, tel.
(+31) 206 26 31 50, www.jimmywoo.com. Sitting down in
one of the purple booths At Jimmy Woos means never having
a dull moment. An Asian-themed household name in fancy
clubbing in Amsterdam, the recently redecorated place is filled
with the classy, rich and young (and sometimes even Dutch
celebrities), dancing to 1990s R&B and hip-hop. Be sure to
do the following three things here: gawk at 20-somethings
who arent sure about the dress code (women wear cocktail
dresses, men wear sneakers); enjoy the wave of 12,000 light
bulbs on the ceiling in the dancing area; and bring a fat wallet
as the prices at the bar can reach 120 for a bottle of bub-
bl y. QOpen Thu, Sun 23:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PJAG
Melkweg F-7, Lijnbaansgracht 234a, tel. (+31) 205 31
81 81, www.melkweg.nl. Melkweg isnt so much a club as it
is an institution in the Amsterdam nightlife scene. This former
milk factory is now home to two clubs, one hall called the Oude
Zaal for smaller shows and the Max which can accommodate
1,500 people, as well as a gallery, caf, theatre, a tearoom
and a cinema. Its an obligatory stop for up-and-coming bands
on European tours and also hosts music and film festivals.
Al though its speciality is live music, it also hosts club nights
with DJs in its smaller hall. For upcoming events visit its web-
site or just drop by its box office for information and tickets.
Q Admission: 10 - 30 for concerts. AE
Nachttheater Sugar Factory F-7, Lijnbaansgracht
238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00 08, www.sugarfactory.nl.
Were more at home at a punk rock show than a house
club, but even we could sense that something special
was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A di verse crowd of teens
through 40-somethings genuinel y appreciate the profes-
sional international DJs from as far away as the States,
who know how to get a crowd moving here. The style is
casual so dont worry about your trainers and leave your
D&G gear at home. This isnt exactl y the place for the
superficial gli tterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music.
Bell y up to the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join
the action. Unlike the crowded faux clubs on Leidseplein
blasting Top 40, this place is the real deal. QOpen Thu,
Sun 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed. Admission: 5 - 12. AE
Studio 80 B-3, Rembrandtplein 17, tel. (+31) 205
21 83 33, info@studio-80.nl, www.studio-80.nl. Every
week, a long line of hipsters and art academy students
are checked by a door Nazi at the entrance of Studio 80
located at the busy Rembrandtplein. As one of the places
to be for contemporary electro music, the club has weekl y
and monthl y events aimed at the young music fanatic. Visi t
gay-friendl y parties like the infamous Mul tisexi events and
immerse yoursel f in the atmosphere of Studio 80, which is
often pregnant wi th new musical creati vi ty. Dance the night
away in the big main hall or lounge on the couches in the
back. Apart from the music, the sight of the long queue of
well-dressed clubbers is also worth a look. QOpen Wed,
Thu 23:00 - 03:30, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PJUG
Supperclub Amsterdam A-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 21,
tel. (+31) 203 44 64 00, amsterdam@supperclub.com,
www.supperclub.com/html/amsterdam. Part of the in-
ternational chain of Supperclub venues that grace the nightlife
scenes of some of the worlds hippest cities, the location
in Amsterdam is just as extravagant and provocative. With
friendl y female waiters clad in leather personall y serving you
as you lie on soft beds, the surprises literall y keep coming
like a fi ve-course meal served in dog food bowls. I ts not
all haute cuisine, but the experience of eating horizontall y
combined with the techno/electro music that the live DJs
play downstairs certainl y is unique. The onl y problem here
seems to be its earl y closing hours. Just when youre get-
ting into the groove of it all, the bouncers tell you to get out.
Note the ul tra modern toilet signs: instead of the usual men
and women symbols, theyre divided into hetero and homo.
QOpen 19:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 03:00, Sun 18:00
- 01:00. PJGK
Holland Casino F- 8, Max Eeuweplein 62, tel.
(+31) 205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino.nl.
Located on the water between Leidseplein and the
Rijksmuseum, this stylish casino has plenty of eating
and drinking options and a great summer terrace. Inside
youll find well-known games like poker, roulette, black
jack and loads of slot machines in two separate halls
and focused gamblers seated in expensive leather
chairs doing battle with machines with imaginative
names like Rich Girls, King Kong Cash, Outback Jack
and Cash Fever. Convenient mini-guides offering quick
courses in gambling are available for beginners who
dont know the rules. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PO
JAUGKX
Casinos & Gambling
42
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NIGHTLIFE
Cocktails
NJOY! G-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 93, tel. (+31) 624
24 97 42, www.cocktailclubnjoy.nl. Its trendy, its styl-
ish and its pretty much standing room onl y at the weekend.
The excellent cocktails are poured by professionals who
reall y know what theyre doing and the delicious, albeit girl y,
Kentucky Sweet bourbon drink had us contemplating a life
without beer if onl y for a millisecond. So why arent we more
enthusiastic about one of Amsterdams best cocktail joints?
It would have to be the staff. The fascist waiter told us to
order a drink and to stop checking out the place as its not a
museum and the bartender almost threw a fit when we tried
to pay for our 11 drink wi th a bankcard. QOpen 20:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A
Sake & Co B-2, Zeedijk 134, tel. (+31) 206 25 62 08,
www.sakeandco.nl. This tiny bar, which is narrow even by
Amsterdam standards, has adopted the Japanese love of
minimalism, but thats not why alcohol aficionados come here.
Youve definitel y had cosmos and martinis, but have you ever
had a sakerinha or a sakepolitan? This unique watering hole
near the Nieuwmarkt mixes cocktails with Japans enigmatic
hooch so try an Okinawa sunrise, a Tokyo ice tea or just order
warm sake on its own, which ranges in price from as low as
12 per 300ml to over 40 for the good stuff. Typical mixed
drinks without rice wine can also be had for just under 8,
except on Thursdays when all cocktails cost 6. QOpen
17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. W
Twenty Third Bar Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel
Okura), tel. (+31) 206 78 71 11, www.okura.nl. This
salubrious cocktail bar on the 23rd floor of the five-star Hotel
Okura not onl y offers fantastic evening views of the city from
high above, but its also located right next to Ciel Bleu, a res-
taurant with two Michelin stars from which you can order some
delicious starters like fresh oysters. Sit on sumptuous leather
couches while you sip incredible mixed drinks or vintage wines
and Champagne chosen by its renowned sommelier. Its also
known for its mojitos, but dont tell the bartenders you heard
it from us. They might prefer to make something more chal-
lenging. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. A
Comedy clubs
Chicago Social Club (Boom Chicago) F-7, Leidse-
plein 12, tel. (+31) 204 23 01 01, www.boomchicago.nl.
This is the onl y English-language comedy club in Amsterdam.
Every night you can watch an evening of improv and skits la
Saturday Night Live performed by the citys funniest English-
speakers in a theatre cleverl y hidden by its bar/restaurant.
The admission is steep, but Amsterdams American and
British expats dont seem to mind as Friday and Saturday
nights usuall y sell out. You can also order food and drink in
the auditorium or just relax at the bar downstairs and save
yourself 20. Most performances begin at 20:15, but visit its
website for exact show times. Q Admission: 20. AK
Irish pubs
Molly Malones B-1, Oudezijds Kolk 9, tel. (+31) 206
24 11 50, www.mollyinamsterdam.com. Al though this
cosy cellar pub has had a Cel tic makeover with an Irish flag,
Guinness memorabilia and the odd shamrock, there are also
plenty of old Dutch liquor casks lined up against the wall like
the ones you see at local jenever joints. Order a Kilkenny and
some Irish salmon or spare ribs, watch football on SkySports
and listen to occasional live music on weekend nights here.
Naturall y, plenty of whiskey is also on offer including some
good single mal ts. Al though i t has all the makings of yet
another tourist trap, its location on a quiet canal lends it a
laid back quality thats hard to find at similar establishments.
QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:30 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. ABE
O Reillys A-2, Paleisstraat 103, tel. (+31) 206 24 94
98, www.oreillys.com. It claims to be the best Irish bar in
town, which is a bold statement considering the number of
Hibernian pubs in Amsterdam, but it does have a lot going for
it. O Reill ys has a cosy atmosphere despite its enormous
size, a good selection of Irish brews, a big breakfast and other
good grub like lamb sausages and loads of flat screens show-
ing sports. If, however, youd like to escape the boisterous
setting up front, head to the back study that looks like one
you might see in a country gentlemans home complete with
library and fireplace. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 03:00. ABW
Slainte Irish Pub A-1, Warmoesstraat 87 (Red Light).
This Irish pub offers loads of red pleather booths, wood tables
and chairs and a decent selection of background rock music,
not to mention sports on a bunch of flat screen TVs. Guinness
and Murphys are its staple brews as well as Heineken, which
is 2 for 1 during happy hour. Where Slainte trul y excels is in
its big breakfasts Irish, Dutch or otherwise, especiall y the
Hungry Man - piles of bacon, eggs, sausages and mushrooms
on a sesame seed bun. Take a shot of Jameson to flush out
your arteries afterward. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. B
The Tara A-2, Rokin 85 - 89/Nes 100, tel. (+31) 204 21
26 54, www.thetara.com. Youve never seen an Irish pub
like this. Divided into several different areas, one room has a
cosy pub feel with a fireplace and a mounted stags head, an-
other looks like a church complete with pews and a pulpit, yet
another is designated for smokers and has two pool tables,
while other rooms include long bars and give off a cocktail
lounge vibe. You can stick with traditional Irish and domestic
beers or take advantage of the Taras extensive wine and
drinks list, not to mention upmarket international cuisine. But
dont fret. A Sunday roast and an Irish breakfast are available
every day. In short, its an Irish pub to impress your girlfriend.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. AB
Dont be one of those tourists
fresh off the train that asks the
nearest l ocal where the Red
Light District is located. Its not
hard to find so just walk straight
down the Damrak, as most
people do, and make a left at
the Grasshopper. Then just keep
wal ki ng pretty much strai ght
ahead until you hi t Oudezij ds
Voorburgwal and, one canal
farther, Oudezijds Achterburg-
wal, which is the main strip with
lots of ladies and most of the
sex theatres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old
Church) is also chock full of working girls and you should
definitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg,
Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby. Although not
as popular with tourists, theres also a street full of red
lights between the Spuistraat and the Singel on Oude
Nieuwstraat. If youre a little too shy to talk the ladies
while 10 Japanese businessmen and a hens night look
on, this might be a good option for you.
Red Light streets
NIGHTLIFE
43
NIGHTLIFE
43
Jenever bars
De Drie Flesches A-2, Gravenstraat 18, tel. (+31) 206
24 84 43. Ancient black bottles of Bols the size of basket-
balls collect dust behind the bar, a lit candle deposits layers
of wax on top of a ceramic beer tap and jenever barrels large
and small line the wall on the opposite side of the room from
floor to ceiling. Men and women of all ages sip classic spirits
from tiny glasses or delicious Belgian brews at this tasting
bar whose sand-covered floor has been trod since the 17th
century. The liqueur casks arent just for decoration either.
Local companies own them and their employees unlock them
when they come here to unwind. Dutch snacks like cheese,
sausages and bitterballen are also available. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 20:00.
In de Olofspoort B-2, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31)
206 24 39 18, www.olofspoort.com. The historic build-
ing that houses this charming bar was buil t in 1618 and
replaced the 14th-century St. Olafs Gate, hence its unusual
name. The Olofspoort offers over 200 different spirits includ-
ing traditional and exotic local jenevers, Dutch liqueurs and
bitters as well as homemade cherry and liquorice liqueurs.
Beer drinkers wont be disappointed either as the Belgian
Affligem Double on draught is delicious. Unlike other tasting
rooms of it genre, this one provides plenty of space for its
patrons in two large rooms, but make a note of its limited
opening hours. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. A
Proeflokaal De Ooievaar B-1, Sint Olofspoort 1 (Red
Light), tel. (+31) 204 20 80 04, www.proeflokaaldeooi-
evaar.nl. On the modern nightlife front this tiny one-room bar
in the Red Light district can hardl y compete with neighbour-
ing sports bars and coffeeshops. It offers no TV, no internet
connection and no ganja. People here actuall y have to talk to
one another to pass the time while sipping one of dozens of
traditional jenevers that line the walls of this ancient bar and
this is precisel y why we like it. The barman wears a necktie
and offers a smile and a chat to anyone who comes in not to
mention a boiled egg from the bar - a local tradition. You can
also have a beer here, but enjoy this endangered slice of the
past before someone opens a kebab joint or a sex shop here.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.
Live music
Alto Jazz Caf F-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115, tel.
(+31) 206 26 32 49, www.jazz-cafe-alto.nl. This legendary
Amsterdam club is about as long as a train car, but perhaps
even narrower. Youll definitely have to make some physical
contact with other music enthusiasts to get to the stage where
live jazz, funk or salsa acts perform every night in front of a
packed crowd of hipsters, locals and foreigners in the know.
Its dark the way a jazz club should be and has something of a
clandestine speakeasy feel to it. Theres no cover charge, but
even simple drinks like a Jack and Coke can set you back dearly.
QOpen 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AE
Bitterzoet A-1, Spuistraat 2, tel. (+31) 204 21 23 18,
www.bitterzoet.nl. Popular with young urbanites, Bitterzoet is
a club that specialises in live music with an edge from hip-hop
to indie rock. Pay your admission on the ground floor, then head
downstairs to drop off your coat and then go up another set of
stairs past the toilets to reach the main dance hall or keep going
up to the balcony bar area and a separate smoking room. The
dark interior and its stained glass windows of devils as DJs and
angels fornicating lends the place an underground sacrilegious
air that no doubt appeals to the crowds that congregate here
for concerts and party nights. Q Asmission: 5. AEX
Bourbon Street F-7, Leidsekruisstraat 6 - 8, tel. (+31)
206 23 34 40, www.bourbonstreet.nl. This place actu-
all y looks a bit like a barn on the inside with the exception
of the musical instruments hanging from the rafters and the
chandeliers hanging above the bar. At the weekend its hard
to manoeuvre through the sea of bodies assembled here to
listen to blues and rock bands and the bouncers dont seem to
have any qualms about letting as many people in as is physi-
call y possible, but at least youre getting real entertainment
for your 5 cover and not the blaring Top 40 and techno at
neighbouring bars. If youd like to use the toilet, try coming on a
weeknight. Live music every evening. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 3 - 5. AE
Caf Casablanca G-4, Zeedijk 26E, tel. (+31) 612 20
05 19, www.cafecasablanca.nl. Have you ever seen a 13-
piece band including a horn section and a drummer perform
in youre living room? Well you dont have to. Come to this
small bar where live music on a grand scale is guaranteed
nearly every evening. Domelsch, Hertog Jan and Hoegaarden
are available on draught, violins, trumpets and accordions
adorn the walls and old master replicas are suspended from
the ceiling. If this all sounds a little too rowdy for your tastes,
you can al ways take in some cabaret or a magic show at its
bar/restaurant/theatre next door. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. AE
The Cave F-7, Prinsengracht 472, tel. (+31) 206 26
89 39, www.thecave.nl. The men at The Cave, a tiny black
rock bar decorated with gargoyles and little else, come in
two varieties: guys dressed in black with long hair and guys
dressed in black wi th no hair. Thankfull y, the women, or
should we say girls, tend to be surprisingl y cute Goth chicks
who havent overdone the piercings or the horrid hairstyles.
Al though space is limited, bands play here every Friday night
and the sound quality is actuall y quite good considering the
limitations of the bar. Plenty of special beers and whiskies
are also available, but most patrons seem to go for the cheap
stuff. Smoking isnt discouraged either, so puff away while
you bang your head. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00
- 04:00. Admission: Fridays 5. X
The Waterhole F-7, Korteleidsedwarsstraat 49, tel.
(+31) 206 20 89 04, www.waterhole.nl. This is the kind
of place where you would expect Jim Morrison (or someone
like him) to be a regular. A true roadhouse. I ts dark, loud
and little bit smoky and every square metre of wall space
is covered either in booze bottles, rock posters, graffiti or
musical instruments. Listen to live music from folk and blues
to rock nearl y every night, shoot pool on three tables or
order a Bavaria draught, which is nothing special, but plenty
of good beers are available in bottles. If you need another
excuse to come, it also offers a good happy hour until 21:00
on weeknights. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. EX
A smoke and a drink in the Red Light district Lya Cattel
44
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Pubs
Batavia 1920 A-1, Prins Hendrikkade 85, tel. (+31)
206 23 40 86, www.batavia1920.nl. Located just op-
posite the Central Station in a prime example of Amsterdam
School architecture, Batavia 1920 has a little something for
everyone. Often times youll hear blues music in the back-
ground, yet on match days you can watch football on TV. It
serves plenty of international fare like steaks, big breakfasts
and BLTs, but also traditional Dutch snacks like bitterballen
with mustard. Youll have no problem getting a good cocktail
either, but its true speciality is Belgian and Dutch beer on
draught and some surprises in bottles like Delirium Tremens
and Raging Bitch IPA. Popular with expats, Batavia 1920 also
offers a large smoking cellar and special drinks prices during
English Premiership matches. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00. A
Caf de Tuin D-5, Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 13, tel.
(+31) 206 24 45 59. This place looks like some youngsters
inherited the famil y bar and gave it a funky, contemporary
upgrade. Floral print wallpaper covers the far wall and i f
youre wondering why its so bright back there, its natural
illumination courtesy of a large skylight thats decorated with
an art nouveau-style painting of a mermaid. Staff place drinks
on raised platforms on the bar so as not to knock over the
huge stacks of glasses piled up next the to the beer taps. A
young and boisterous crowd listens to rock music here at the
weekend but its usuall y not too difficul t to get a table inside
or a chair outside. IJ brewery beers are available as well as
some good Belgian options. Q AB
Caf Flinck H-9, 1e van der Helststraat 51, tel. (+31)
208 46 21 01, info@cafeflinck.nl, www.cafeflinck.nl.
De Pijp is one of Amsterdams most interesting areas. Caf
Flinck combines a nostalgic atmosphere wi th the snazzy
decorations of a contemporary caf in an age-old establish-
ment, but without the excessive frills. Flinck is a cool place
to enjoy a homemade Croque - Monsieur or a freshl y poured
Amstel. The clientele is as colourful and varied as the well
prepared chicken satay. Q
Caf Thijssen E-3, Brouwersgracht 107, tel. (+31)
206 23 89 94, www.cafethijssen.nl. Named after the
bloke whose statue graces the square outside, this friendl y
neighbourhood pub is frequented by people of all ages and
stripes and is known for its impressive beer selection and
huge, yet casual terrace that instantl y quadruples the bars
capacity each summer. The interior is pure bruin caf with
a long bar that is onl y knee-high on one side. No matter, tiny
stools were added to compensate for the lack of al titude. A
huge cupboard is stocked with board games from checkers
and chess to Risk and that old school classic - Boggle. Some
snacks, sandwiches and breakfasts can also be had and wi-fi
is available, but bear in mind that Thijssen onl y accepts cash.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 07:30 - 03:00,
Sun 09:00 - 01:00. BW
CREA Caf B-3, Turfdraagsterpad 17, tel. (+31) 205
25 14 23, info@creacafe.nl, www.creacafe.nl. Known
as the caf of the Cul tural Centre for Students in Amsterdam
(CREA), you can find throngs of artistic students here drinking
mint tea with honey and the occasional member of the elder
generation sipping dark beers. Expect a gorgeous view of the
canals, sofas to chill and friendl y service, but when ordering
from the decent lunch menu make sure to ask for the small
sandwich instead of the large one as theyre pretty much the
same size. Check out the schedule on its website for wicked
student performances. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00
- 19:00. (11 - 18). PTJAGW
Weber E/F-8, Marnixstraat 397, tel. (+31) 206 22 99
10, www.hotelweber.nl. Weber is billed as a club/bar for
an al ternative crowd loth to listen to pop and techno music
on their night out and wed have to agree. At the weekend
its packed, quite stuffy and quite hard to get into and even
harder to get out. New Wave and indie music icons line one
wall, while the other boasts three portraits of American as-
tronauts and what appears to be the head of a water buffalo.
Al ternative indeed. Seating on faux leopard skin seats in the
cellar is often easier to find. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 04:00. A
Sports bars
Players A-2, Warmoesstraat 170, tel. (+31) 204 20 05
63, www.amsterdam-dam.com. Youll find this cellar sports
bar full of foreign men watching football on SkySports onl y
a stones throw from Dam Square. Occasionall y youll even
see a bored spouse or girlfriend faking enthusiasm for the
match of day. The louder-than-life commentary and the giant
photos of the terraces almost make you believe that youre in
the stadium. In any event, its a great place to watch sports,
its open very late and it pours Guinness and Kilkenny brews,
not to mention pitchers of local Bavaria. Pool tables are also
available. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri 16:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00
- 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. A
Satellite Sports Caf F-8, Leidseplein 11, tel. (+31)
204 27 25 29, www.satellitesportscafe.nl. I f youre
hungry for sports and, well, lots of food, then a visi t to this
place wi th the boring, yet aptl y chosen name of Satelli te
Sports Caf might just be in order. The place is decorated
wi th flat screen TVs and not much else, which means i ts
clearl y meant for gents wi th a hankering for football and
an appeti te worthy of a Viking feast or Roman banquet.
Order enormous English breakfasts, pancakes, pi zzas,
burgers and steaks or test your stomachs mettle wi th
i ts speciali ty: all-you-can-eat ribs for onl y 11.90Ls. Shot
specials and pi tchers of Heineken are available on two
floors on busy Leidseplein. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AB
Teasers A-1, Damrak 35 - 36, tel. (+31) 204 21 84 11.
Its refined motto babes and beer curiously neglects to men-
tion sports. The beer part is obvious. Youre on the Damrak
so a pint of Heineken will set you back 6.50 and as far as
the babes go well give you a hint. That doesnt refer to the
clientele, but rather the beautiful waitresses in cheerleader
outfits that take turns dancing on the bar. Teasers also has
about a dozen TVs showing football most of the day and a
wide range of pub food from English fry ups to steaks with
prices befi tting the bars location. A small smoking room
is also available, but you have to pay 0.50 for piss-poor
toilets. Q ABX
Whisky bars
Whiskycaf L&B F-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 82
- 84, tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen.
nl. Look up at the nearl y unending choices of whisky on offer
on the blackboard, take a deep breath and find your favourite
scotch. The aptl y named Whiskycaf has over 1000 different
single mal ts, bourbons and sour mashes from around the
world including famous highland spirits as well as drinks from
obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze in around the central
bar and ponder the possibilities, but dont worry. You wont get
dirty looks from the staff if you order one of its excellent beers
or wines. You can also attend one of its frequent tastings to
learn more about quality whisky. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A
NIGHTLIFE
45
NIGHTLIFE
45
We thought that interviewing
a local prostitute would be a
rather simple task, but not
everything is as it seems in
Amsterdams infamous Red
Light district also known as
De Wallen. After all, what
working girl wouldnt accept
20 for five minutes of con-
versation with a boring travel
wri ter? The fi rst wi ndow
professional we spoke to
was a tall woman with blonde hair and a perfect
taut body made even sexier by the shiny black
thigh-high boots she was wearing. Unfortunately,
the idea of a man preferring to pay for answers
to questions instead of sex seemed way too per-
verted, so she slammed the door in our face.
A little rattled by our failure, we regrouped and
moved on to the tiny alley behind the Oude Kerk in
search of another sex worker to interview. Since
we had struck out with a blonde, we thought it only
logical to try our luck with a petit brunette with a
lusty smile and a small tattoo on her exposed
abdomen. We tried a new approach and assured
her that we didnt want to write her lifes story, but
were more interested in practical information that
we could pass onto our readers her potential
clients. Yet another glass door nearly struck us on
the jaw. Would we really need to explain to the wife
that we had to engage in an extramarital quickie
just to get some questions answered?
As the evening wore on the tourists increased
in number, and levels of inebriation, and we had
still come up with a fat zero. The bell of the Oude
Kerk, surrounded by this modern-day Sodom,
struck several times as a warning to us that we
were running short on time. Dejected and desper-
ate we headed for some of the, in our opinion,
less desirable areas where men with odd fetishes
go but quickly retreated once our unfortunate
gaze rested upon a full figured granny in full S&M
regalia. Theres only so much were willing to risk
for our readers and we will bear the scars of this
encounter for years to come. Never again will we
be able to watch an episode of Murder She Wrote
without imagining Angela Landsbury as a Dutch
dominatrix.
In case youre wondering, the going rate for
20 minutes of sex in the Red Light district is 50.
Please also remember that these ladies are trying
to make a living so either do or dont, but dont
gawk at them like animals in a zoo and dont make
any lewd gestures unless youre ready to put your
money where your mouth is. Taking photos is also
a good way to get into a brawl, so if you must take
some snapshots for the gang back home then do
so from a safe and respectful distance.
Striking out in De Wallen
Wine bars
Mulliners Wijnlokaal B-3, Lijnbaansgracht 266/267,
tel. (+31) 206 27 97 82, www.mulliners-wijnlokaal.nl.
The first thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar, apart
from the refined atmosphere, the polished wooden bar and
the green leather benches that put one in mind of an English
gentlemans club, was the smell of garlic. Escargot was be-
ing prepared along with a myriad of other delicious tapas,
but Mulliners main focus is of course wine in all its lovel y
incarnations. Order a bottle or a glass from the months
specials on the blackboard and relax in this candlelit room
to the soothing sounds of classical music. QOpen 17:00
- 24:00. Closed Mon. A
Adul t entertainment
Casa Rosso B-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106 - 108,
tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. This iconic
live sex theatre provides continuous action for as long as you
like. The programme varies over the course of the evening
and ranges in theme from simple strip numbers and couples
fornicating on a rotating bed to lesbian lovers and vibrator
acts. In fact, it seems that Casa Rosso provides something
for all of the popular fetishes including a husky woman so as
not to neglect the chubby chasers among us. Lots of surprises
are also included in the acts that receive lots of laughs from
the crowd, but we wont spoil the fun and divulge any details
here. The theatre can seat up to 180 people but you might
prefer the balcony seating if you dont want to volunteer for
one of the participatory shows. There are no happy endings
or facials so you can sit as close to the stage as you like. If
you purchase the more expensive 50 ticket you get coupons
for four complimentary drinks, which isnt a bad deal when
one considers that cocktails are included in the price and
not just draught beer. You should also take into account that
as much as youd like to humiliate your friend on stage, the
performers dont want their grannies watching their act on
YouTube so taking photos and filming are prohibited. QOpen
19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: 35; 50
including four drinks. A
The Bananen Bar & Club B-1, Oudezijds Achterburg-
wal 37, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.bananenbar.nl.
What heterosexual member of the male gender hasnt heard
of the famous Banana Bar in Amsterdam where the girls are
lusty and the boys are often drunk? Downstairs for 50 you
can drink all you can swill for one hour on the lounge bar with a
variety of talented women who can do all kinds of interesting
things with ping pong balls, markers and of course bananas.
When we dropped by one of the lucky lads was squealing with
delight as a woman in a corset whipped his backside with
his own bel t. Upstairs is the club, which has a, shall we say,
more dignified atmosphere where guests pay 10 admission
to sit by the pole where beautiful women show their moves
in various states of undress. Ordering drinks is mandatory
and if you buy a bottle of champagne you can have a private
party with one of the girls behind a curtain. You can also pay
for individual lap dances, which are a lot steamier than the
ones we remember receiving at the clubs in the Jersey Shore
of our youth. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00.
Admission: bar 45/person/hour, club 10/person.
Plenty more pubs, clubs and
assorted boozers at
46
GAY AMSTERDAM
Very proud participants at Gay Pride T. Pouw
Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel
destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands
became the first country in the world to officially recognise
same-sex marriages. Other countries like Belgium, South
Africa, Argentina and most Scandinavian countries followed
shortly after. Amsterdam has a long and fierce reputation of
tolerance and respect for the rights of minorities, including
those of gays and lesbians and homosexual couples can
openly show their feelings for one another in public without
fear in the Dutch capital.
With four distinctive gay districts in the city centre,
rainbow flags on nearly every other street and the annual
Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the place to be for gays
worldwide. The street parties, club events and exhibitions of
Amsterdam Pride draw more than 350,000 participants and
visitors each year. On the first Saturday in August, thousands
of people line the Prinsengracht and Amstel River to watch
the worlds only pride parade on water. The cavalcade of
colourful canal boats packed with hundreds of extravagantly
costumed homosexuals is like nothing most people have ever
seen. Even gay politicians, policemen and other people with
public professions sail along, although the cops were warned
not to strip this year.
Another maj or party for gays and straights alike is
celebrated on April 30. Queens Day, the official birthday
of Dutch Queen Beatrix has been adopted by local queens
who have added Queens Night to the festivities the evening
before the main event with street parties. In addition to these
two major events, the Amsterdam gay scene hosts all kinds
of parties nearly every day of the week!
Unfortunately, not everything is as bright as it seems
at fi rst gl ance. After the sui ci de of controversi al gay
entrepreneur, Sjoerd Kooistra, in June 2010 who owned half
of Amsterdams gay venues, the local scene was plunged
into a noticeable depression. Lenders also shut down many
of the citys old time favourites as a consequence of the
financial crisis. Another negative development resulted when
a few instances of violence towards gays occurred in 2010.
Although Amsterdam is still as safe as many other big cities
in Europe, these incidents have proven that Amsterdam isnt
immune to gay bashers.
On the bright side, in 2011 the city is still full of energy
and gorgeous boys and girls and the loss of some classic
venues has made room for new gay entrepreneurs to make
their mark. All in all, Amsterdam still has an impressive range
of gay hotels, shops, restaurants, bars, saunas, clubs, travel
agencies and other facilities.
Several areas form what can be dubbed Amsterdams
Gay Village. All areas are within easy walking distance from
one another. The prime area is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay
Main Street) and prime hunting ground for upmarket clubs
and trendy restaurants. Other areas include the Kerkstraat
(near Leidsestraat) with two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and
Amistad) as well as a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in
the Red Light district (with cruise bars, a leather scene and a
cinema) and the Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs).
Last but not least there is a vast selection of party places
around the Amstel, Halvemaansteeg and Rembrandtplein.
Caf Rouge G-6, Amstel 60, tel. (+31) 204 20 98 81,
www.caferouge.nl. Red like a cheap brothel, this unpreten-
tious late night spot attracts a diverse crowd willing to party
and score. A live DJ tries to please the crowd with a mixture
of gay classics, Eurovision and modern pop. The walls filled
wi th photos of Dutch and international royal ty add to the
campy atmosphere where anything can happen. Anything
can also mean nothing, but on weekends and special days
like Queens Day its a safe option for fun. QOpen 16:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed. PJG
Club Church F-8, Kerkstraat 52, info@clubchurch.nl,
www.clubchurch.nl. This is Amsterdams ul timate cruis-
ing club with two floors of play and dance areas that offer
changing theme parties and DJs every night. Free condoms
throughout the venue and lots of more serious kinky toys are
available for use including slings, private cabins and even a
Saint Andrews cross, which has nothing to do with heraldry
and everything to do with bondage. Yep, you can get it as
wild or rough as youd like it, but its probabl y not the best
place to have your first gay experience and defini tel y not
an appropriate venue to have an after-work drink with your
straight business colleagues. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00, Thu
22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. PJGX
De Spijker F-7, Kerkstraat 4, tel. (+31) 20 620 59
19. Located in a dark basement, the Spijker might not be
as inviting as other bars in town, but those who make the
effort are in for a surprise. At the back side of the bar, below
two TV screens showing uninspired gay porn, is a pool table.
This is the real gem, because its an easy way of getting in
contact with other patrons including, among others, some
weirdos, some locals and loads of expats! Just write your
name on the board and wait your turn. A small darkroom is
available upstairs. And did we mention the gorgeous South-
African bartender? QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 03:00. PJ6X
Montmartre B-3, Halvemaansteeg 17, tel. (+31) 20
620 76 22, info@cafemontmartre.nl, www.cafemont-
martre.nl. Al ways packed at the weekend, Montmartre can
be a bit claustrophobic, but those who enjoy lots of bodil y
contact and flirting with the hot young boys in their teens
and twenties that come here are in for a real treat. Cheesy
pop and Eurovision make Montmartre a heaven for all Dutch
queens, so bring your attitude, get drunk, croon with Sandra
Kim and Kylie Minogue and dance the night away. You can also
use its happy hour from 18:00 - 20:00 to get in the mood.
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00
- 01:00. PJGX
Prik A-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02, prik-
post@prikamsterdam.nl, www.prikamsterdam.nl. Prik, a
relaxed and cosy caf near Dam Square, is the ideal place
to meet your friends, or even your grandmother, and have a
drink to start the night off. Prosecco on tap, sexy cocktails,
tasty finger food a live DJ and a good vibe will probabl y make
you linger around longer than you might have planned. It was
voted several times as the best gay bar in town and we can
certainl y see why. Prik rocks! QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00. PJGB
GAY AMSTERDAM
47
GAY AMSTERDAM
Pink Point & Homo Monument (Gay Informa-
tion Centre) E-5, Westermarkt to 9, tel. (+31) 20
428 10 70, info@pinkpoint.org, www.pinkpoint.
org. Pink Point provides general information about gay
and lesbian Amsterdam. Its staffed by volunteers who
can provide all kinds of information about gay organisa-
tions and about gay life in general in the Dutch capital
and they also sell some of the coolest gay souvenirs
in the country. The nearby Monument to Homosexuals
or Homomonument was designed in 1987 by artist
Karin Daan to inspire and support lesbians and gays in
their struggle against discrimination. It is also a memo-
rial to gay men and women who were oppressed and
persecuted because of their lifestyles and beliefs. The
pink triangle was the symbol homosexuals were forced
to wear by the Nazis. Sadly one of the three granite tri-
angles is located right next to a public urinal. Talk about
discrimination! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. B
Gay information
Real i t y B- 3, Regul i er s-
dwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31)
206 39 30 12, www.barreality.
freehomepage.com. Reality is a
tropical-style ethnic bar. Custom-
ers tend to hail from exotic locales
such as Suriname, the Carribbean
and other hot destinations, so its
a bit al ternative compared to the
other places on Gay Main Street.
Great music like salsa, meringue
and cal ypso is also available for
those who are fed up wi th the
regular gay bubblegum. This might also be the place to
see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned men and their
toys are just a myth. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00
- 04:00. PJG
Taboo A-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel. (+31) 207
75 39 63, www.taboobar.nl. This bar boasts two big
screens showing cheesy music videos, hot bartenders who
are actually friendly and attentive and a comfy smoking room
on the first floor which seems to be a winning combination
especiall y on a street that needed a breath of fresh air. Two
happy hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 - 01:00)
has also helped to build up a steady and happy clientile.
Sundays offer a double happy hour from 18:00 until 20.00!
QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00
- 03:00. PJGBX
The Queens Head B-1, Zeedijk 20, tel. (+31) 204 20
24 75, info@queenshead.nl, www.queenshead.nl. At the
head of the Zeedijk, a trendy street bordering the Red Light
district, the Queens Head is an old time gay favourite with
a loyal clientele. Friendl y bar staff, chandeliers, drag nights
and hilarious bingo nights on Thursdays are all major draws.
Downstairs a cosy backroom wi th a romantic canal view
is also available and li ve DJs spin music at the weekend.
In short, its a lovel y place to actuall y meet other people.
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00
- 01:00. PJGBX
Thermos Sauna E-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206
23 91 58, office@thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. One of
the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a legendary
gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies, students and
the occasional geriatric all mix in the labyrinth upstairs and
the wet compartments on ground floor that include a swim-
ming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and whirlpool. The dcor
is still very much stuck in the 1970s and about as cosy as
the interior of a nuclear power plant, but most men seem to
focus on other things, which explains the cruisy atmosphere,
especially at the weekend. An attached hair salon and beauty
parlour is also available for those in need and free condoms
can be found at the bar. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Admission:
under 21 years 10, 22 - 25 years 14, and 26 and over 19.
PJFGBKXC
Vivelavie B-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 24 01
14, www.vivelavie.net. An insti tution in the Amsterdam
gay-scene, this lesbian bar has been around for more than
30 years and is still ali ve and kicking! I t has an unpreten-
tious and cosy atmosphere wi th old Holl ywood posters on
the wall. Ladies meet their friends, talk, read, eat, sip their
cocktails and dance in the late hours in this Art Deco-style
space. The menu offers tapas, tosties and other finger
food and the music varies from lounge and gay classics
to upbeat and everything in between. Even gay men like
i t here! QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
PJGBX
48
HIGH TIMES
HIGH TIMES
The Dutch peoples laid back liberal attitude is perhaps
best illustrated by its very reasonable and unprejudiced
drug policy. The Netherlands has been recognised as an
excellent example in drug control matters. By decriminalising
the consumption of some soft drugs it has successfully
reduced soft drug abuse and relieved its justice and penal
systems - as well as created an exceptional, unmatched
party scene.
In fact, the English word drug even comes from the
Dutch drouge or droge-vate, which meant dry [-barrels]
(as barrels of dried herbs used to be imported by the Dutch
and were intended for medicinal use). The most famous soft
drugs available in the Netherlands (to over-18s of course) are
weed and magic mushrooms, as well as other legal highs.
The questionable content of legal highs and recent criticism
of the ingredients and manufacturing standards will mean
that this guide will not cover this type of soft-drug. Naturally,
we believe natural highs to be the only safe high.
Despite recent legal changes due to pressure from the
European Union, the Netherlands is still the best place for
dabbling with new experiences. All types of weed, hash
and skuff can be found at very good prices if you look hard
enough, but decent stuff by world standards can usually be
found around the corner. Look out for busy shops with little
or no front decor, as well as the pungent aroma of cannabis
smoke wafting from the entrance.
Of course, this type of soft drug can be consumed in
many di fferent ways. Smoking is the most class mode of
administration, however, eating is also commonplace,
particularly in the new tobacco-free world which is coming
into being. It is also possible to smoke cannabis without
usi ng tobacco, by usi ng tobacco al ternati ves - pure
cannabis or a vaporiser (available for use in only the best
coffee shops).
It may be important to note for cost-effectiveness in your
partying that for a first-timer, eating cannabis can have a
strong and sometimes unpleasant effect, so small quantities
are advised. For regular smokers, however, they may be
disappointed to hear that in our opinion, eating cannabis is a
much less efficient way to get high, therefore the effect may
be very much reduced. Also for cannabis food (also known as
space food) its important for the THC (the active ingredient
in cannabis) to be cooked into fat or dissolved in alcohol for
the effect to be felt. A sprinkle of hash on a muffin or in a hot
chocolate will most likely have no effect, as ones stomach
acids destroy the THC without absorbing it.
If its your first time sampling natures gifts, its important
not to underestimate Mother Natures power and potential.
They can be very potent and end up giving you a bad time if
one doesnt follow a few simple rules: keep something sweet
with you, in case you start seeing stars; keep something to
drink with you, as a good smoke will completely dry out your
mouth; keep someone with you, in case you fall over (or
worse, particularly in the case of mushrooms). Youll be glad
to know that the only known death from cannabis was in the
United Kingdom, as a result of an illegal market which cuts
cannabis with other substances to increase its weight. This
hazardous concoction briefly appeared in the Netherlands,
but quickly disappeared as people could easily avoid it.
For mushrooms, some recent changes may put a damper
on your party plans, as psilocybin-based mushrooms are
no longer legal. This came about as a result of excessive
mushroom use by tourists. Despite this change in the law,
magic mushrooms which do not contain the illegal active
chemicals, are still sold in some smart shops. The most
common types are phil osophers stones (truf fl es) and
Mexicans.
Peyote can also be purchased dried and gives a very
strong trip which can cause strong nausea, so you might
want to stick with more traditional soft drugs should you be
inclined to experience high times in Holland. Remember to get
rid of all these natural highs before leaving the Netherlands
as the possession of these substances is illegal pretty much
everywhere. In the case of weed, try to keep a separate
change of clothes to travel home in, as sni ffer dogs can
even react to strong aromas left behind by cannabis such as
smoky jeans. The main thing to remember is to be educated
about the drugs you use so as not to be taken by surprise,
whether by the authorities or by your own body.
Whether you smoke the herb or not, coffeeshops in
Amsterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose
the right one and itll be an experience youll never forget.
Choose the wrong one and you youll probably forget that
you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many different
types of coffeeshops, for different kinds of people. Some
look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan monasteries
(once youre stoned) and others like super-modern cafs.
And in the summer, many have outside seating, sometimes
near the canal.
After extensive wandering around (and getting lost in)
Amsterdam, a list of dozens of coffeeshops not to be missed
during your stay is provided here. They are selected from
across the city, so youre never far away from one of these
exceptional Dutch institutions.
You should also bear in mind that there are usually
two types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC
content and creates a strong stoned or high fee-
ling; and non-haze which has a somewhat milder
effect. The price difference may sometimes be
quite substantial between these two types, as
haze weed plants (usually strong sativas - for
those in the know) are bigger and harder to grow
properly than non-haze (usually strong indicas)
plants. If youre a non-regular smoker, or even a
regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze, and
then perhaps try a haze joint to see how you feel.
For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily), haze
weed will show you how truly stoned you can get,
but beware as some types may stick you to your
chair, and you may drool (well, maybe not the
second part).
Embracing the haze
Accept no substitutes in Amsterdam
HIGH TIMES
49
HIGH TIMES
Coffeeshops
Abraxas A-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14, www.abraxas.
tv. Down a side-street off one of the main boulevards in
Amsterdam Centrum, youll find this surprisingl y cosy me-
dium-sized coffeeshop spread over several narrow floors.
With extensive mosaics and elaborate dcor, it includes large
comfortable banquettes and pleasantly mellow lighting aided
by candles on every table. Well organised and efficient staff
make this an attractive option for a relaxed (but brief) break
while touring the citys delights. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. J
Amnesia A-3, Herengracht 133, tel. (+31) 204 27 78
74. The first thing to be said about this coffeeshop is that
its part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup
Awards. Even if youre just eager to sit down in pleasant sur-
roundings, this is a good option. With a view of the canal, this
establishment boasts a pleasant dcor of purple swirls and
gold and black as well as equall y pleasant and efficient staff.
A choice of games and vaporizers will ensure your time at this
coffeeshop is well spent, and outside seating in the summer
makes it a great choice. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
Barneys A-1, Haarlemmerstraat, tel. (+31) 204 27 94
69, www.barneys.biz. This coffeeshop review is more about
the three establishments which are part of Barneys coffee-
shop empire and all located on Haarlemmestraat within close
walking distance of each other. One venue is a coffeeshop,
the other is a bar/restaurant and the final one is a souvenir
shop/bar and smoke-room, meaning that in between these
three places, you can smoke drink and eat to your hearts
content in an attractive environment with a pleasant dcor.
Popular particularl y with tourists, it provides its customers
with arguabl y one of the best choices in life; get high and eat,
get high and drink, or get high and have a coffee. And to get
high with a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful choices
to be made here, but once your desires have been met, it is
al ways good to remember that the souvenir shop will provide
you with numerous ways to annoy your boss/ mother-in-law/
lecturer/ law enforcement agency (delete where appropriate).
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. P
Bluebird B-2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat 71, tel. (+31)
206 22 52 32, info@coffeeshopbluebird.nl, www.
coffeeshopbluebird.nl. Bluebird might seem at first like a
small coffeeshop, but the upstairs is substantiall y larger than
the ground floor and the window-walls over the street are
very effective in giving the place a light and airy feel, which
also provides great people watching opportunities. These
windows also provide the best lighting to the extensi vel y
intricate artwork covering the inside walls from top to bottom,
forcing the eye (stoned or not) to wander endlessl y. Games
are also on offer like a pinball machine and the crowd is of
a local variety with a mix of some tourists as well. The staff
is friendl y and outdoor roadside seating is available in good
weather. The availabili ty of vaporizers make this an ideal
location for a trippy experience (along, of course, with the
dcor). QOpen 09:30 - 01:00. GBX
Tetrahydrocannabi nol or
THC is the psychoacti ve
substance i n cannabi s
that gets you high. Its also
known to increase appetite
and relieve nausea, which is why its often recom-
mended to cancer patients.
Whats THC?
HIGH TIMES
50
HIGH TIMES
Bulldog No. 90 B-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel.
(+31) 206 25 98 64, www.thebulldog.com. Arguabl y
the first ever coffeeshop in Amsterdam, this establishment
combines cannabis history and getting high with an excel-
lent central location. Wi th seating overlooking the canal
on the inside and seating on the edge of the canal outside,
this coffeeshop is an ideal place any time of year. The dcor
of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper articles and the
orange (youll understand once you get here) tells the story
of this venerated establishment, which gives off a pub-like
atmosphere. Computers with internet access are available
(for a fee) for any last-minute travel arrangements or any web
addicts and the staff are friendl y and helpful. Finall y, the herb
purchasing area is seperate from the drinks area. A small,
but important detail when you want to get your smoke on in
a hurry. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JB
Bulldog Palace F-8, Leidseplein 17, tel. (+31) 206
27 19 08. Fancy going down the police station for a spliff?
Well in Amsterdam, you can, al though the police station has
been transformed into a mul ti-storey smoking, drinking and
dancing venue. Its a large, spacious place with a pleasant
conservatory style smoking area at the front and features
two separate downstairs areas: one for weed and one for
souvenirs. Upstairs is what can onl y be described as a dark
nightclub with plenty of coloured lights jumping around, but
that could have just been the effects of the haze. Alcohol
including cocktails is available making i t an ideal spot for
hanging out and shooting some pool in the evening until the
proper clubbing kicks off. Internet stations are also available
for downloading that evenings soundtrack. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00. PEGBXW
Coffeeshop 36 A-1, Warmoestraat 36, tel. (+31)
206 24 24 93. I ts canal view at the back sold us on this
place and i ts close to the station which is ideal i f youre
in Amsterdam onl y briefl y. This coffeeshop is housed on
several di fferent levels, which isnt exactl y an advantage
i f youre travelling wi th wheel-bound sui tcases. (We like
to get down to business as soon as we arri ve). The low
lighting, strategicall y placed wrought-iron gates and the
metal rock interior will sui t some more than others, but the
friendl y staff and separation of weed and drink sales (rare
so close to the station) make i t a worthwhile addi tion to our
list. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
Dolphins F-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 25 91 62.
You wont find a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam or any
other place on the planet for that matter. With an overwhelm-
ing marine theme and the friendl y dolphin as your guide you
can make a selection from the affordable and obviously placed
menu, sit down at one of the many high quality vaporizers and
just do your thing. The constant bubbling and of course your
choice of herb will make you feel as if submerged in another
world. If inhaling at a stool isnt your thing, there are large
sofas to sink into and the friendl y staff can ensure all your
needs are met down here underwater, although you may have
to swim to the surface (or the bar) to get served. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. GBXW
Funny People B-1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 24, tel. (+31)
206 23 86 63. This coffeeshop is a bi t dark and on the
small side, but the candles, comfy seating and cushions all
ensure a relati vel y cosy experience and i ts located near
the train station. The dcor has no particular theme, but
is still pleasing to the eye even before a smoke. A TV and
some board games are available as well as a few snacks.
A good choice to get a quick high while wai ting for a train or
hotel check-in. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.
JGX
Grasshopper A-1, Oudebrugsteeg 16, tel. (+31) 206 26
12 59, www.thegrasshopper.nl. This grand establishment
is a one-stop shop for food, drink and smoke. Its close enough
to the station for a one-hour stopover or you could even just
grab a beer, a steak and a joint without even leaving the
premises. The mul tiple floors cover each of these aspects
and it has a pre-club feel in the evening with private booth
tables, colourful lights and bar games like pool. The massive
outdoor terrace overlooking the canal is one of the best spots
in summer for boat, street and people watching and is, not
surprisingl y, incredibl y popular with tourists. QOpen 08:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PJB
Greenhouse Centrum B-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal
191, tel. (+31) 206 27 17 39, www.greenhouse.org.
Part of one of the best coffeeshop chains, this establishment
in a busy part of the city centre is quite busy itself and with
good reason! The outside seating area next to the canal away
from the main drag is an ideal spot for smoking on a sunny
day. When the weather does go bad, however, its colourful
interior is a pleasure for stoned eyes. The product sold here
is some of the best in the Netherlands, not to mention the
most varied, and well worth anal ysis under a microscope,
which is convenientl y found at the same counter. The livel y
atmosphere and large tables may not make it the best place
for a relax and a read, but is probabl y more appropriate
for meeting new people and perhaps planning a night out.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. JB
La Tertulia E-6, Prinsengracht 312, tel. (+31) 206 23
85 03, www.coffeeshopamsterdam.com. Open since
1983, one of the oldest coffeeshops in Amsterdam is also
one of the most appealing and original for smokers and non-
smokers alike. Apart from the relativel y ordinary weed menu,
the environment here includes extensive detailed artwork on
the outside as well as the inside, providing trippy experiences
at every corner. The selection of drinks and toasties is more
extensive than in most coffeeshops in Amsterdam and the
many plants, as well as the mul tiple levels and patio furniture
make one feel as if they were picnicking in a garden. The out-
side seating next to the canal in a quiet area of the city makes
for a relaxed break while wandering the beautiful surroundings.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B
Lion of Judah (Bushman) B-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal
47, tel. (+31) 206 24 27 23. Beware! If you cant relate to
the Rastafarian way of life, you may not enjoy this coffeeshop.
If, however, youd like to embrace your inner Marley, then by
all means pay a visit to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and
black history dcor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it
appears) serving you behind the bar will certainl y help you to
get closer to Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised
products on offer here, mon. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
Even Tintin enjoys the occasional joint Ilse Ouwens
51
HIGH TIMES
Magic A-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96.
This charming North African-style coffeeshop boasts comput-
ers with internet access and a pool table, along with other
games, as well as large comfortable seating areas. The Moroc-
can tea will make you even more relaxed if you decide to spark
up, particularly after the scenic walk to get to here. Far away
from the main tourist areas you may find that this place is more
appropriate when not alone. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
Noon F-8, Zieseniskade 22, tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22.
Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make this
an ideal coffeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals, chat
with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one of its large
tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV and even
a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as the usual
smoking paraphernalia. I ts a good stop before a night of
partying on Leidseplein.
Old Church B-1, Oudekerksplein 54, tel. (+31) 204 20
12 64. This coffeeshop is surprisingl y hard to find given its
position in the centre of Amsterdam, but the giant neon signs
on the facade will certainl y help. Slightl y removed from the
main canals and touristy streets, it still provides convenient
access to the Red Light District. Its outdoor terraces are a
pleasure to experience in the summer, but the odd rustic/In-
dian theme and the ordinary menus mean that the highlight of
this coffeeshop is its outdoor terrace, and thats about it.
Rastababy B-1, Prins Hendrikkade 7 III, tel. (+31) 206
24 74 03. Convenientl y close to the station and complete
with outdoor terrace as well as a conservatory-type lobby
area, this coffeeshop is great spot to wai t for the train if
youre leaving, or to recover from your travels if arriving. The
friendl y staff, pleasant music and menu options provide a
satisfying smoking experience, particularl y if loaded wi th
luggage - no stairs or steps. Candles add ambience in the
evening and on dark days.
Resin A-1, Hekelveld 7, tel. (+31) 204 22 98 38. Fairly spa-
cious with a particularly original green interior, this coffeeshop
may provide a pleasant respite during a visit to Amsterdam.
Reflecting the theme of the Red Light District, a keen eye may
be able to discern sex swings, but dont worry. Other seating is
available in the form of sofa benches lining the wall. There are
TV screens to catch your gaze and music with an electronic
edge drones on in the background. The staff here arent par-
ticularly friendly, but then again thats fairly typical in Amsterdam
where the stoned customer is rarely king.
Rokerij IV E-7, Elandsgracht 53, tel. (+31) 206 23 09 38,
www.rokerij.org. The latest addition to the Rokerij chain, this
coffeeshop can be found in the scenic Jordaan district. Featuring
coloured candles, wooden tables, cushion seating and a pleas-
ant interior adorned with both Tibetan and Moroccan details,
this coffeeshop could be the ideal place to play a game or two
while making use of some of the bongs provided. The herbal
menu here is exceptional and includes cannabis cup varieties
and a good selection of drinks like fresh OJ.
Rusland B-2, Rusland 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 94 68.
Rusland provides a pleasant break from the coffeeshop
norm, al though to no extreme extent. The extensive choice
of 40 teas provides a world of fragrances to complement the
other pungent herbs you can purchase here. A successful
but original mix of Russian and Moroccan dcor, a common
cushioned seating area complete with a view onto the street
and a friendl y cat make this place an excellent environment
in which to relax alone or with friends. You can also expect
small wooden tables, golden ashtrays and many different
levels to explore.
Siberie A-1, Brouwersgracht 11, tel. (+31) 206 23 59
09, www.coffeeshopsiberie.nl. Visit this coffeeshop on a
Friday or Saturday and youll be able to enjoy some live DJing
with your smoke in a cosy atmosphere. Candles, art work,
flowers on the tables as well as good music all contribute to
the success of this converted garage. Some food is available,
games are provided and the large wooden tables give all the
space necessary to enjoy your time here without inconve-
niencing other patrons. Not unlike its Russian namesake, its
located far from the civilisation of the city centre so most cus-
tomers tend to be local and its rarel y ever crowded. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PEGXW
Smokey B-3, Rembrandtplein 24, tel. (+31) 206 23
72 44, www.smokey.nl. A large, sprawling affair on the
Leidseplein, this formidable pub/pre-nightclub coffeshop is a
good place to start with (or without) friends before going on
to the nightlife provided by this infamous party area. Similar to
a big American-style bar its large number of chairs and tables
are able to accommodate groups of any size, but this might
not be the place for a quiet, comfortable smoke. However, if
you do enjoy a toke with your party and would like to mix it
up with both locals and tourists alike, you could hardl y find
a better venue.
Solo B-2, Korte Koningsstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 06
45. Located near the quiet but picturesque Nieuwmarkt part
of Amsterdam, this light and simpl y decorated coffeeshop is
run by friendl y staff. With one of the walls entirel y covered in
posters, your eyes may wander while having a toke here, as
well as your ears thanks to the chilled music. Its a good place
for a break while exploring one of the side streets nearby,
but best of all, it provides free marshmallows in case you
feel light-headed (a common side effect of the herb - well if
its good anyway), a little peckish or indeed, if you just fancy
one. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
The Saint B-3, Regulierssteeg 2, tel. (+31) 644 14
53 29. Down a neat little side street in a corner of the city
centre, this graffi ti den-cum-coffeeshop (or the other way
around) has its own resident tarantula. Have no fear. Its kept
it in a vivarium, but if youre lucky youll arrive at feeding time
which will definitel y provide a particularl y trippy experience,
that is if the crazy artwork and mirrors dont get you going
first. The staff are friendl y and its distant location ensure
a local clientele - an advantage if youre just looking for a
quiet time. Q W
A little baggy full of fun
For Smart & Head shops
see shopping on p.64
52
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Essential Amsterdam
The Old Church (De Oude Kerk te Amsterdam)
B-1, Oudekerksplein 23, tel. (+31) 206 25 82 84, www.
oudekerk.nl. Although no one knows for certain, its believed
that Amsterdams oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was
erected at the end of the 13th or possibl y the beginning of
the 14th century. The important edifice wasnt onl y used for
religious purposes and often served as a safe for precious
documents, a treasury and also a homeless shel ter as the
citys indigent were allowed to spend the night here until the
Cal vinists came to power in the 16th century. It was also
the place where couples had to register their intentions to
marry as Rembrandt and his bride Saskia did in 1638. Shes
buried on the far end of the building opposite the entrance.
The church was added onto over the centuries but eventuall y
ran out of space to grow and then it suffered a huge blow
when protestant demonstrators looted churches across
the Netherlands in 1566 damaging priceless art works in
the process. The historic monument and its wooden ceiling
were on the verge of collapse in the 20th century and it was
finall y closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In 1979 it was
again opened to the public and is now one of the citys most
visited attractions. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adul ts 5, children 12 and under free.
The Rembrandt House Museum (Rembrandthuis)
G/H-5, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 20 04 00,
www.rembrandthuis.nl. This historic house was bought
by one of the Netherlands most illustrious native sons in
1639. Unfortunatel y, scandal made him unpopular and work
became scarce. He was unable to cover the loan and went
bankrupt in 1656. His possessions were auctioned off and he
moved to more modest lodgings on the Rozengracht. An audio
guide will take you through the house, which is reconstructed
to look exactl y as it did when Rembrandt was at the peak
of his career. View the foyer where he exhibited his work for
potential buyers, his living quarters complete with funny box
bed, the attic where his apprentices worked, his curiosity
room and of course his studio. Staff also demonstrate how
etchings were mass-produced using copper plates. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 10, children 6 - 17 years
3, children 5 and under free. A
Van Gogh Museum F-9, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel.
(+31) 205 70 52 00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Very
few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this incredible
museum. Its vast collection includes roughl y 200 paintings,
500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise most of the
works produced by the troubled artist in his short 10-year
career. Those familiar with onl y his later works will no doubt
be surprised to see the dark greys, browns and blues used
in Van Goghs earliest still lifes of cabbages and clogs, not
to mention some of the subject matter such as a smoking
skeleton. The vibrant paintings for which he is now so re-
nowned onl y appeared later during his time in Paris when he
discovered colour. Al though the museum is indeed a shrine
to all things Van Gogh, it also displays a varied collection of
works by world-famous artists from earl y mentors like Anton
Mauve and Jules Dupr to such icons of Impressionism as
Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Gauguin, Renoir, Czanne and Tou-
louse-Lautrec from which he drew inspiration. The museum
also offers temporary exhibitions in the basement as well
as a caf and a large shop where you can buy prints, books
and other Van Gogh souvenirs. The crowds of visi tors at
peek times might limit your appreciation of the experience,
so why not drop by on a Friday night when you can enjoy your
art with some music and a cocktail! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Fri 10:00 - 22:00. Admission: adul ts 14, children 17 and
under free. AUK
Brewery & Distillery tours
Brouwerij De Prael B-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 30,
tel. (+31) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. This small mi-
crobrewery was originally supposed to be called De Parel (the
Pearl), but it turned out that someone already had the rights to
that name so they just changed a couple of letters around and
De Prael was born. You can take a tour of the small premises
in the Red Light district and learn about the brewing process
followed by a beer in its new tasting room which has a view of
all the brewing action. The owners also contribute to society
by employing people who have a tough time finding work else-
where and you can see them hard at work in the cellar where
one fills the bottles, another puts the cap on and a third person
attaches the labels. The brewery makes about eight different
beers and you can buy all kinds of De Prael merchandise in its
shop. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Heineken Experience G-8, Stadhouderskade 78, tel.
(+31) 205 23 92 22, www.heineken.com/experience.
If youd like to see how one of the worlds most popular beers
is made and sample the finished product at its ul tramodern
bar, then look no further than the Heineken Experience. Al-
though this tasty brew isnt produced on the premises, you
can take a tour and learn about the companys evolution from
its founding in 1864 in Amsterdam to its current status as a
mul tinational brand. View exhibits that chronicle Heinekens
innovative leaps in both brewing technology and marketing
that launched the famous red star logo on six continents.
Pass the awards gallery and enter another room where the
four basic ingredients of beer are explained and then move
on to a large hall filled with giant copper vats where you can
take part in the process by grinding mal t. Make your way to
the Brew U 4D experience where you see, feel and smell what
its like to be brewed from start to finish. Take a break at the
tasting bar where a guide will pour you a brew and explain
the mysteries behind the thick foam that Dutch bartenders
al ways leave at the top of the glass. Proceed to the video
room with green couches and a ceiling made of Heineken
bottles, bottle your own personalised brew for 5, create
your own video or move on to the Innovation Station and the
historic advertising gallery. At long last youll reach the modern
world bar where you can enjoy two extra cold beers. Exit the
experience via the Heineken shop. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Admission: 15. AU
House of Bols Cocktail and Genever Experience
F-9, Paulus Potterstraat 14, tel. (+31) 205 70 85 75,
www.houseofbols.nl. Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the
House of Bols is one the worlds oldest spirits makers, not
to mention one of the oldest firms on record. Its renowned
jenever recipe dates back to as earl y as 1664 and was intro-
duced to the British roughl y 25 years later where it was modi-
fied to English tastes and produced locall y as gin. Al though
the venerable company moved away to a location near The
Hague in 1969 it opened this amazing tasting experience and
bartending school near the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam
in 2007. The award-winning Genever Experience showcases
the roughl y 40 liqueurs it sells in 110 countries around the
world as well as the wide varieties of jenevers it produces.
Take a self-guided, interactive tour and learn about the his-
tory of the House of Bols, discover the importance of both
smell, taste and colour in the drinking process, practice your
bartending skills in the flair simulator and, best of all, taste a
delicious cocktail prepared by graduates of the upstairs drinks
pouring school in the trendy Mirror Bar. Additional cocktails
cost onl y 5! A souvenir shop sells all manner of gifts from
personalised liquor bottles and clothing to Delftware spirits
receptacles. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00. Closed
Tue. Admission: 11.50. A
WHAT TO SEE
53
WHAT TO SEE
Buildings
Beurs van Berlage A-1, Damrak 277, tel. (+31) 206 20
47 01, www.beursvanberlage.nl. Buil t over a period of 5
years from 1898 - 1903, this massive brick structure was the
brainchild of visionary architect H.P. Berlage. It is considered
to be one of the first grand examples of Dutch modern archi-
tecture. Al though the building was constructed to house the
Amsterdam Stock Exchange, Berlage had a different concept
in mind. He created a place that functioned as a centre of
commerce and capitalism, but his true intention was to erect
a building that would symbolise the tenets of socialism, hence
the tile tableaux of labourers and the use of brick - each one
representing a member of society. Alone a brick is nothing
special, but together with thousands of other bricks it can
become something beautiful, harmonious and strong. The
monumental building would serve as inspiration for a whole
new generation of architects whose style became known
as the Amsterdam School. The Stock Exchange eventuall y
moved and Berlage got his wish as the Beurs van Berlage is
now home to events and concerts.
City of Amsterdam Archives (Gemeente Amster-
dam Stadsarchief) G-7, Vijzelstraat 32, tel. (+31)
202 51 15 10, stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl. This famous
example of Amsterdam School architecture is now home to
the city archives but is often called De Bazel after its illustri-
ous designer K.P.C. de Bazel (1869 - 1923), who unfortunately
passed away before its completion in 1926. It was originall y
buil t for a bank that would later become ABN AMRO, but now
hosts conferences, exhibitions and, of course, the archives. A
visitors centre is available as well as a caf and the archives
are open to the public. You can also view thousands of docu-
ments or trace your genealogy online at its website. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple B-1, Zeedijk 106 -
118, tel. (+31) 204 20 23 57, www.ibps.nl. Amsterdams
Chinatown is one of the most vibrant youll find on the con-
tinent and its also home to the largest Buddhist temple in
Europe, which is impossible to miss. While trying to pick a
good Chinese restaurant on the Zeedijk, why not take a quick
peek at this interesting monument, but make sure to enter
via one of the smaller side gates as the main gate is reserved
for nuns and monks. Inside youll find a lavish interior with a
statue of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva and a shrine dedicated
to the Buddha. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Tour admission (Sat 14:00, 15:00, 16:00): 5.
Royal Palace Amsterdam (Koninklijk Paleis Am-
sterdam) A-2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20 40 60, www.
paleisamsterdam.nl. Its hard to miss the Royal Palace on
Dam Square. When the building was first opened to the public
as the Town Hall in 1655, its lavish interior decorated with
paintings by Ferdinand Bol and Rembrandt was considered
to be the eighth wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made
it his personal residence in 1808 when he briefl y served as
the King of Holland, but it later became the possession of
the House of Orange. After meandering through a few dull
corridors youll finall y walk upstairs to the main hall where
your jaw is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so
much polished marble in one place, not to mention six giant
crystal chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered
in frescos high above the inlaid maps and nautical and
astronomical charts in the floor. The audio guide, which is
included in the price, is essential as none of the rooms have
explanations in any language. A short movie wi th English
subtitles is available before you take the tour. QOpen 12:00
- 17:00. Admission: adul ts 7.50, children 5 - 16 years 6.50,
children under 5 free.
54
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Amsterdam first put its
name on the map of Eu-
rope not with its trading
prowess, its port or with
prostitution, but with a
supposed miracle thats
still celebrated today on
March 12. The story goes
that in 1345 a man was
gravely ill and summoned a priest to administer
communion, but the man was so sick that he
couldnt keep anything down and kept vomiting,
so the clergyman advised the women of the
household to throw any expelled holy liquids on
the fire, which they did. The next morning they
discovered a perfectly formed host, or communion
wafer, in the fireplace, which seemed impervious
to the surrounding flames. A miracle was declared,
a chapel was built on the site of the house and
pilgrims began streaming into Amsterdam. Today
pilgrims of a different sort still converge on the
city and quite a few probably also vomit here,
but we doubt that the shoarma and French fries
that come up have any religious significance. Its
also interesting to note that the chapel was later
destroyed and the building that now occupies its
place houses the Amsterdam Dungeon. Sources
also dont seem to mention what became of the
man who started all of the commotion with his
holy heaving.
Miraculous Amsterdam
The Mint Tower (Munttoren) G-6, Muntplein. The Mint
Tower is one of the citys most visible landmarks and anyone
who has visited the Flower Market or done some shopping on
the Kal verstraat has definitel y noticed this unique bell tower
with a clock on each of its four sides. Originall y a gate called
the Regulierspoort that was part of Amsterdams fortified city
wall, it was destroyed during a fire in 1618, but rebuil t two
years later in Amsterdam Renaissance style by the eminent
Dutch Golden Age architect Hendrick de Keyser, who also built
the Westerkerk and Zuiderkerk among other famous edifices
scattered about the city. It gained its name in the 17th century
when the French occupied parts of the Netherlands forcing the
Dutch to move their coin minting operations to this location.
The adjoining building, which now houses a Delft ceramics
shop, was erected in the 19th century.
The Weigh Station (De Waag) B-2, Nieuwmarkt
4, www.indewaag.nl. This is the most magni ficent of
the ci tys remaining medi eval gates. Buil t in 1488, St.
Anthonys Gate (Sint Anthonispoort) eventuall y became an
official weigh station for merchants, i ts original purpose as
a defensi ve structure having become obsolete. A number
of local guilds also moved into the building and each one
had i ts own entrance. One of the halls was occupied by
the Surgeons Guild that occasionall y dissected a freshl y
executed criminal, a popular event that was open to the
public. Weigh stations and guilds also fell out of fashion
over time and the building was used for several di fferent
purposes over the years, but since 1996 i t has housed a
swanky Dutch restaurant wi th a great summer terrace on
the Nieuwmarkt. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Tuschinski Theatre G-6, Reguliersbreestraat 26 - 28,
tel. (+31) 90 02 35 72 84, www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/
tuschinski. This ornate building, which incorporates Art
Nouveau, Art Deco and Amsterdam School architecture, was
created by Abraham Tuschinski (1886 - 1942), a Polish Jew
who settled in the Netherlands in the earl y 1900s instead
of immigrating to the United States, which was his original
plan. He became a successful cinema operator in Rotterdam,
before turning his attention to a forlorn part of Amsterdam
where he erected his dream theatre. Unfortunately, Tuschinski
became a victim of the Holocaust and died at Auschwitz in
1942, but the incredible building he erected is still one of
Amsterdams most popular cinemas.
Weepers Tower (Schreierstoren) B-1, Prins Hen-
drikkade 94/95, www.schreierstoren.nl. The so-called
Weepers Tower is one of the few remaining defensive towers
left from Amsterdams medieval city walls. It was buil t in the
earl y 15th century and is purported to be the place from
which explorer Henry Hudson set sail for the New World in
1609 leading to the founding of the small settlement of New
Amsterdam on the island of Manhattan. Today, it houses a
Dutch caf and bar that has an authentic antique interior and
a great summer terrace overlooking the canal.
Churches
Moses & Aaron Church (Mozeshuis) H-5, Water-
looplein 205 - 207, tel. (+31) 206 22 13 05, www.
mozeshuis.nl. Open for exhibitions, concerts and visitors,
the Moses House and its classical facade on Waterlooplein
is hard to miss. Inside youll find whi tewashed walls and
hardwood floors, but your gaze will no doubt be drawn to
the stunning marble al tar or the 14 depictions of the life of
Christ that cover the interior. Not unlike many other Catholic
churches, it began its existence as a clandestine church, but
was finall y buil t out in the open after the ban on the Roman
faith was lifted in 1795. A plaque outside proudl y states that
the illustrious composer Franz Lizst performed here in 1866.
QOpen 12:00 - 17:00.
Noorderkerk E-5, Noordermarkt 48, tel. (+31) 206 26
64 36, www.noorderkerk.org. As the population of the new
Jordaan neighbourhood began to explode in the 17th century,
the city decided to build a new church for its lower class prot-
estant residents. Hendrick de Keyser, the illustrious designer of
the nearby Westerkerk, was tasked to create the building and
it was finally completed in 1623 in all its odd octagonal glory.
Inside, the black gravestones that pave the floor have been
polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic from its devoted
parishioners. Although the interior is rather plain, and even the
huge windows have only clear glass, the massive pipe organ is
a sight to see. QOpen Mon 10:30 - 12:30, Sat 11:00 - 13:00,
Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri.
St. Francis Xavier Church (De Krijtberg) F-6, Singel
448, tel. (+31) 206 23 19 23, www.krijtberg.nl. This Jesuit
church near the Flower Market began its existence in the 17th
century as a clandestine house of worship hidden behind the
faade of a typical canal house. Catholics were persecuted at
the time and had to gather in secret so it was given the code
name of de Krijtberg or Chalk Mountain, because the owner
of the house was a merchant who had dealings with England
known throughout Holland by its white chalk cliffs of Dover. The
current neo-Gothic structure was erected between 1880 and
1883 replacing the previous medieval building, which explains
why it is so incredibly narrow. It is perhaps best known for
its impressive collection of stained glass. The more vibrant
panes were added in 1930, while the more faded examples
are original. QOpen 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Fri.
WHAT TO SEE
55
WHAT TO SEE
St. Nicholas Church B-1, Prins Hendrikkade 73, tel.
(+31) 206 24 87 49, www.nicolaas-parochie.nl. For cen-
turies Amsterdams Catholics were banned from practicing
their faith openl y. The citys main churches had been con-
verted to Protestant houses of worship and Catholics moved
their services underground or, in some instances, above
ground in the attics of buildings. In fact, many clandestine
churches loyal to the Pope were available in Amsterdam and
the authorities often knew of their existence, but, as usual,
the practical Dutch turned a blind eye to illegal activity as
long as it wasnt too brazen. When Catholics were finall y al-
lowed to worship freel y the hidden churches could no longer
service the growing demand of the faithful and a new church
was necessary. Finall y, in 1887, the neo-Renaissance St.
Nicholas Church was consecrated. I ts interior is lavishl y
decorated with red and white marble, gil t ceilings, stained
glass and lots of statues of saints. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00,
Mon, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
The Parrot: Church of Sts. Peter and Paul (De
Papegaai) A-3, Kalverstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 23 18
89, www.nicolaas-parochie.nl. In stark contrast to the
non-stop racket heard from shoppers outside on the tire-
less Kal verstraat, this well-hidden church is a small oasis of
peace and quiet. Its clandestine appearance is intentional
as it was one of several underground Catholic churches that
had to conceal their existence from Protestant persecution,
hence its code name - the Parrot. It is typicall y narrow, like
most Amsterdam buildings, which is the reason for the
extensi ve seating galleries overlooking the main hall from
above. Al though its interior isnt as grand as other Catholic
churches in the area, its a quiet escape from the hordes of
people stuffing their faces at McDonalds across the street.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:45 - 13:30.
Westerkerk E-5, Prinsengracht 281, www.westerkerk.
nl. The Westerkerk was consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch
Reformed church and it still tends to its Protestant flock to
this day. Its Dutch Renaissance style is unmistakable and
its massive tower embellished with the crown of Austrian
Emperor Maximilian soars to a height of 85m above the city.
The impoverished painter Rembrandt was buried here in
1669, but no one is quite sure exactl y where, yet a plaque
marks the approximate spot not far from his son Titus grave.
Anyone familiar with the story of Anne Frank also knows that
she often heard the bells from the church in her hidden annex
onl y a short distance away. The tower bell is the largest in
the Netherlands and weighs in at an impressive 7,500kg.
Al though the church is also used as a concert hall, its closed
to visitors during the winter months. The Westermarkt square
outside is a popular meeting place where you can relax on
benches that look like lounge chairs, eat some raw herring
from one of the food stalls or take a look at its monuments
- a statue of Anne Frank and three triangular pink granite slabs
dedicated to persecuted gays near and far. Q Open April
- October 11:00 - 15:00. Tower admission: 6.
Zuiderkerk B-2, Zuiderkerkhof 72, tel. (+31) 880 20 22
80, www.zuiderkerk.innl.nl. Currently used as rather grand
office space for the National Museum of History, the South
Church was buil t between 1603 - 1611 and its renowned
spire was erected a few years later and still houses the
oldest church bell in the Netherlands. The illustrious Jewish
philosopher Spinoza spoke here in better times, but the house
of worship was used as a morgue during the infamous Hunger
Winter of 1944 - 1945. Today its also used as a conference
hall and a wedding venue, but you can take a peek at its rather
austere interior on weekdays. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission: free.
56
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Jewish Amsterdam
Anne Frank House (Anne Frank Huis) E-5, Prin-
sengracht 263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www.
annefrank.org. There are very few people who arent ac-
quainted with the tragic story of Anne Frank - a brave girl who
dreamed of becoming an author while in hiding from Nazi per-
secution. The diary of her time spent in the secret annex was
published in 1947 and later translated in over 65 languages.
The popularity of her work is reflected in the huge queues
outside this museum that has been teaching Amsterdams
visitors about the Holocaust, the evils of anti-Semitism and
racism and, of course, the story of the Frank famil y and their
desperate struggle to survive since 1960. Inside youll walk
through the warehouse where workers attended to their
business every day completel y unaware that several people
were hiding upstairs. Otto Frank was a successful business-
man who had moved to the Netherlands after Hitler came to
power in 1933. When the Nazis occupied Holland, he signed
over his firm to trusted partners but remained its director in
secret. After winding your way through rooms adorned with
quotes from Annes diary you eventuall y reach the bookcase
that hid the entrance to the annex where the Franks lived.
You can view the original red plaid diary and watch videos,
but the most touching exhibits are the pencil marks indicating
the growth of the children, the magazine clippings that were
used to decorate the walls and Otto Franks moving account
of first reading his daughters lifes work. He was the onl y
famil y member to survive the concentration camps where
they were sent in 1944. Despite much research, historians
have never discovered who placed the anonymous phone call
that betrayed the Franks. Bear in mind that mobile phones
must be switched off inside and that backpacks must be
held in your hands as space is often limited and the exhibits
could be damaged by an errant bag. A museum caf and
shop are also available, but there is no wardrobe to leave
your belongings. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission: adul ts 8.50, children 10 - 17 years 4, children
nine and under free. AK
Jewish Historical Museum (Joods Historisch Mu-
seum) H-6, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 205 31
03 10, fax (+31) 205 31 03 11, info@jhm.nl, www.jhm.
nl. This extensive museum dedicated to Amsterdam Jewish
life opened in 1987 and is spread out over what used to be
four different synagogues. Begin your journey in the oldest
building erected in 1660, which was abandoned for nearl y
30 years after WWII until it was finall y restored to its former
glory. This section of the museum chronicles the earliest
years of Jewish settlement in Amsterdam and you can view
an impressive array of religious items, hol y texts and ancient
books as well as a giant silver menorah nearly 2m tall! You can
also sit down as if you were a worshipper and watch videos
about various ri tuals and tradi tions. On the second floor,
which was originally used by the female congregation, you can
view paintings by famous Jewish artists such as Josef Israels
and learn about the large migration of Jews from the Iberian
Peninsula, Poland and Lithuania who came to Amsterdam to
escape persecution.
Yet another exhibition illustrates Jewish achievements in
the 20th century such as the founding of such international
retail giants as C&A and HEMA, which were both founded by
local Jews. The attempted destruction of Jewish life during
the Holocaust is also featured here with displays of objects
such as money boxes, which were left by Jews to their gen-
tile neighbours for safekeeping. Many were donated to the
museum decades after the war. A caf, museum shop and
an incredible childrens museum are also available. QOpen
11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 9, children 13 - 17 years
4.50, children 12 and under free. AUK
Portuguese Synagogue (Portugese Synagoge)
H-5, Jonas Danil Meijerplein 7, tel. (+31) 206 24 53
51, www.portugesesynagoge.nl. Most European capitals
were hardl y an ideal place for Jews to call home in medieval
times, but no city was more tolerant of this ethnic group than
Amsterdam in the 17th-century. As the city prospered, its
population grew by leaps and bounds and among its many
new arrivals were Jews from around the continent looking
for a better life. They completed work on this synagogue in
1675 and since then it has served as a centre for Jewish
life in Amsterdam housing also offices, archives, ritual baths
and a rabbinate. Al though the synagogue is currentl y being
restored, its still open to the public and an audio guide will
acquaint you with the buildings long history. QOpen 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: adul ts 6.50, children 13 - 17
years 4, children 12 and under free.
Museums
Allard Pierson Museum B-3,
Oude Turfmarkt 127, tel. (+31)
205 25 25 56, www.allardpier-
sonmuseum.nl. The archaeological
museum of the Uni versi ty of Am-
sterdam has an excellent collection
of rare artefacts from the ancient
worl d of the Near East and the
Medi terranean region from 4000
BC to 500 AD. Objects from Egypt
include wooden sarcophagi, Coptic
art, funerary statues and pottery, not
to mention a room dedicated to mummies and the embalm-
ing process. Upstairs youll find exhibits dedicated to ancient
Greece, Persia and Mesopotamia as well as the Romans and
Etruscans. View perfectly preserved pots and vases, jewellery
made of gold and lapis lazuli, bronze weapons from swords
and daggers to battleaxes and precious works of art such as
tile mosaics. Among the highlights of the permanent exhibits
are the so-called Dionysus sarcophagus, which looks like an
enormous decorative marble bathtub, beautiful examples of
earl y Roman glass and the huge statue of Fortuna that once
belonged to Cardinal Richelieu. Temporary exhibi tions are
available on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adul ts 6.50, children
4 - 16 3.25, children 3 and under free. A
Amsterdam Museum A-3, Kalverstraat 92 / Nieu-
wezijds Voorburgwal 357, tel. (+31) 205 23 18 22,
www.amsterdammuseum.nl. Al though there are many
citys in Europe and the Netherlands with histories stretch-
ing much farther into the past, Amsterdams story is unique
and unusual and worth discovering at this fascinating and
eclectic museum. Follow the development of this powerful
port through medieval artefacts and art from ancient shoes
dating back to the 14th century and the oldest known map
of the city by renowned cartographer Cornelis Antonisz, who
brought the town and its 12,000-strong population to life in
1538, to period furniture and paintings collected by weal thy
Amsterdammers of the Golden Age. You can also learn about
the urban development of the city from its bold plans to dig
canals to 20th-century modernisation projects as well as
lots of fun exhibits that highlight popular cul ture from films
about the Ajax football club and a model of Hollands (and
perhaps the worlds) first gay and lesbian bar, t Mandje, to
interesting facts about prostitution and the first coffeeshop,
the Bulldog. The museum is currently undergoing renovations
so the route between exhibits is often confusing, but its worth
the effort. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adul ts 10, children 6 - 18 years 5, children 5
and under free. BK
WHAT TO SEE
57
WHAT TO SEE
Amsterdam Tulip Museum E-5, Prinsengracht 112,
tel. (+31) 204 21 00 95, www.amsterdamtulipmu-
seum.com. Walk into this flower and gi ft shop near the
Anne Frank House and learn about the fascinating history
of the tulip from i ts humble origins along the Silk Road of
Central Asia to i ts current status as a somewhat common,
mass-produced flower that is still a cornerstone of the Dutch
economy and a symbol of national identi ty for the people of
the Netherlands. Discover how the word tulip was deri ved
from a simple misunderstanding and how the plant was
smuggled to Europe from the Turkish sul tans royal court
in 1555. Learn how tulips made their journey to the Neth-
erlands in 1598 where they were cul ti vated and eventuall y
fetched prices on par wi th Amsterdam canal houses before
the bubble burst ruining many a flower merchant. The evolu-
tion of modern tulip farming is also on display. Al though the
museum isnt very big and is essentiall y a small exhibi t in a
shop cellar, i t isnt expensi ve and i ts owner, who also sells
bulbs upstairs, is passionate about the tulip and provides a
much-needed history of one of the nations most profi table
commodi ties. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: adul ts
4, children free.
Biblical Museum Amsterdam (Bijbels Museum)
F-6, Herengracht 366 - 368, tel. (+31) 206 24 24 36,
www.bijbelsmuseum.nl. This eclectic museum founded
in 1851 by the Reverend Leendert Schouten is dedicated
to all things biblical and includes an incredible collection of
antique bibles and books, not to mention bizarre artefacts
such as human skulls and enormous scale models of ancient
temples. Take the li ft to the top floor and begin wi th a room
devoted to the illustrious founder of the museum, followed
by a diorama of the Israeli te tabernacle buil t by the reverend
based on i ts description in the Book of Exodus. But even i f
youre not a bible student or religious devotee, youll defi-
ni tel y appreciate the excellent collection of ancient Egyptian
antiqui ties from mummi fied remains to precious statuary.
Both Jewish and Islamic relics are also on display as well
as 19th-century etchings of the Hol y Land and, of course,
plenty of bibles, many of which are displayed in the cellar.
The two buildings that house the museum were erected in
1662 and have been restored to their former glory including
original plasterwork and murals by famous Dutch painters.
A caf, museum shop and courtyard garden are also at
your disposal. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
and under free. A
Coster Diamonds F-8, Paulus Potterstraat 2 - 6,
tel. (+31) 203 05 55 55, www.costerdiamonds.com.
Coster Diamonds is one of the oldest diamond factories in
the world and i ts professional craftsmen have been cutting
and polishing expensi ve jewels since Moses Coster opened
his first shop on Waterlooplein in 1840. Today you can
take a free tour of the factory, which moved to i ts current
location in three mansions in the Museum district in 1970.
You can learn nearl y everything about diamonds here in a
variety of languages and discover helpful tips about how
the four Cs (carat, colour, clari ty and cut) influence the
price of each gem. You can also watch men practicing their
trade, learn how to spot fake diamonds and view replicas
of famous gems such as the Koh-I-Noor which was re-cut
by Coster at the request of Queen Victoria. After a brief
tour youll be led upstairs to a diamond showroom where
the owners hope youll be tempted to buy a diamond of
your own. At the end of a labyrinth of more shops youll
reach the Amsterdam Diamond Museum which charges
admission, but you can also just exi t the building i f youve
had enough sparkling carbon for one day. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Admission: free.
Diamant Museum Amsterdam F-9, Paulus Potter-
straat 8, tel. (+31) 203 05 53 00, www.diamantmuseu-
mamsterdam.nl. Start your tour of the museum with a film
that illustrates how diamonds are formed and the science
behind the process. Move on to the exhibits that describe the
polishing and cutting process, displays of replicas of famous
jewels and explanations of the illegal trade in blood diamonds.
You can also take a digital photo of yourself wearing a diamond
encrusted crown which you can e-mail to friends and finish
with the museums most prized possession - the Coster Skull,
which is an odd and truly bizarre gorilla skull covered in 17,000
small diamonds. A museum shop and caf are also available.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 7.50, children 13
- 18 years 5, children 12 and under free. A
Dutch Resistance Museum (Verzetsmuseum) I-5,
Plantage Kerklaan 61, tel. (+31) 206 20 25 35, www.
verzetsmuseum.org. The Dutch Resistance Museum
chronicles the lives of both average and extraordinary citizens
during the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands. It begins with
an overview of the political climate of one of the few European
democracies left on the continent on the eve of war. Although
the occupation is initiall y perceived as a benign, it soon be-
comes clear that the nations sovereignty is graduall y being
stripped away and some of the Dutch begin to resist. It is
these brave souls to whom the museum is dedicated. View
photos, films, war footage and simple household items that
illustrate the nations struggle to aid the Allies. Resistance
took many forms from wearing a simple lapel pin or hiding re-
sistance fighters or Jews from the Nazis to organising strikes
to disrupt war operations and devising unparalleled financial
schemes to fund the resistance movement. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 7.50,
children 7 - 15 years 4, children 6 and under free. A
58
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
FOAM Photography Museum of Amsterdam
(Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam) G-7, Keizersgracht
609, tel. (+31) 205 51 65 00, www.foam.nl. This classic
Amsterdam canal house on the Keizersgracht is home to the
FOAM museum, which is actuall y more of photography exhibi-
tion hall for both famous names and newcomers. Al though
modernised and upgraded to serve its purpose of displaying
cutting edge photographs, many of the buildings original
elements, like the marble floors, have been preserved for
posterity. Exhibitions change quite frequentl y so check its
website for the latest information. A great shop selling trul y
interesting photography books and FOAMs own magazine
is also available on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Admission: adul ts 8, students 5.50,
children under 12 free. KW
Gassan Diamonds H-5, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat
173 - 175, tel. (+31) 206 22 53 33, www.gassandi-
amonds.nl. Learn everything about a girls best friend in
this famil y-owned diamond factory where you can take a
free tour of the premises in dozens of di fferent languages
and buy something bright and sparkl y for your signi ficant
other in one of i ts showrooms. Al though youre by no means
obligated to purchase anything, we recommend a visi t to
any young man who plans on buying an engagement ring at
some point in his li fe. Theyll teach you about the four Cs
- colour, clari ty, carat and cut - and how to spot a fake so
you dont get ripped off elsewhere. Watch diamond cutters
and polishers pl y their trade and finish your experience wi th
a complimentary cup of coffee or tea and a Dutch cookie
at i ts Del ftware shop next door. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Admission: free. A
Hermitage Amsterdam H-6, Amstel 51, tel. (+31) 205
30 74 88, fax (+31) 206 20 01 05, mail@hermitage.nl,
www.hermitage.nl. Russias most illustrious museum has
a subsidiary in Amsterdam, which is housed in a beautiful
17th classical-style building called the Amstelhof that was
once a home for poverty-stricken elderly women. Since 2009,
the building has hosted periodic themed exhibi tions that
display some of the Hermitages most prized possessions
from stunningl y preserved artefacts of the ancient world to
masterpieces of European art. Permanent exhibits dedicated
to the Amstelhof and the origins of the Hermitage Museum
and the Russian royal famil y are also available. Splendour
and Glory: Art of the Russian Orthodox Church will be on
display from 19 March - 16 September 2011. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Admission: adul ts 15, children
17 and under free. AU
NEW
Het Grachtenhuis F-7, Herengracht 386, www.het-
grachtenhuis.nl. A series of fortunate coincidences led to
the creation of this museum dedicated to the evolution of
Amsterdams famous canal bel t and the houses that sprung
up along them. Al though the city offers other Golden Age
museums that display renovated or reconstructed 17th-cen-
tury interiors, Het Grachtenhuis focuses on the development
of the city during its most prosperous era with a variety of
modern mul timedia experiences and films on the top floors
of the building, while still showing off its antique grandeur of
marble foyers, period furniture and paintings by illustrious
Dutch artists. Watch the Beatles taking a tour of the city on
a canal boat, peer into a dollhouse and watch a hologram
of typical ci ty life or just admire the dcor of a protected
monument designed by one of the Netherlands best ever
architects. Q Admission: adul ts 8, children 6 - 18 years
4, children under 5 free. A
Het Schip Museum (Museum Het Schip) C-3,
Spaarndammerplantsoen 140, tel. (+31) 204 75 09
24, www.hetschip.nl. One of the crowning achievements
of Amsterdam School architecture, this unusual building was
erected in 1919 as proof that affordable working-class hous-
ing could not only be functional, but stylish. The historic edifice
is still inhabited today, so you have to take a guided tour of the
museum, which begins at a former post office decorated with
funky tile work characteristic of this Dutch design movement.
Guides will lead you around the building pointing out interest-
ing features like the bay window that looks like a cigar, little
windmills on the faade that symbolise the rural workers who
came to work in the citys factories and the iconic tower, which
is meant to be a beacon of socialism. You can also view an
apartment that looks as it did in the earl y 20th century and
take in an exhibit dedicated to Amsterdam School architecture
and its most renowned adherents. QOpen 13:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: adul ts 5. A
Houseboat Museum (Het Woonbootmuseum)
E-6, Prinsengracht 296K, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 50,
www.houseboatmuseum.nl. The owner of this converted
freighter that dates back to 1912 knows a thing or two about
houseboats as he lived onboard for 22 years before moving
ashore with the rest of the land lovers in Amsterdam. He now
runs this museum which receives over 38,000 visitors each
year who are curious to see how people can use a boat as
a permanent residence. Start with an amusing slide show of
houseboats on the canals during all seasons and the perils
and maintenance invol ved in this unique way of life. View pic-
tures and scale models and discover interesting facts about
the waterways of the city such as the average depth on an
Amsterdam canal (its 2.8m). A childrens corner is available
where the little tykes can draw boats and you can also enjoy a
cappuccino or a cup of tea in the living room. QOpen 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon. Open November - February Fri - Sun 11:00
- 17:00. Admission: adul ts 3.50, children 2.75.
Katten Kabinet G-7, Herengracht 497, tel. (+31) 206
26 53 78, www.kattenkabinet.nl. Lets face it. There are
dog people and there are cat people. The eccentric owner
of this unusual museum is most definitel y the latter. Over the
years a huge collection of paintings, sculpture, 100-year-old
advertising posters, porcelain figurines and other objects
related to cats has been displayed on four floors in this historic
canal house on the Herengracht that boasts antique furniture,
original parquet floors and ceiling murals. Naturall y, a real
cat also lives in the house and can often be seen napping or
lounging in the sunlight near the windows. QOpen 10:00 -
16:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 6, children
4 - 12 years 3, children 3 and under free. A
Clogs and bulbs at the Flower Market Lya Cattel
WHAT TO SEE
59
WHAT TO SEE
Madame Tussauds Amsterdam A-2, Dam 20, tel.
(+31) 205 22 10 10, www.madametussauds.com. Back
in 1777 when Marie Tussaud created her first wax figure of
Voltaire, very few would have guessed that major cities around
the globe would have their own museums named after the
venerable woman. In 1836 at the tender age of 74, she
opened her first location in London proving that people have
al ways been fascinated with celebrities and that the present
obsession with Holl ywood stars and pop musicians isnt just
a fad. Queues at the Amsterdam Tussuads can be a bit long
at lunchtime, but thats because everyone is photographed
with Barack Obama before taking the lift upstairs where youll
be entertained by a light and sound show dedicated to the
Golden Age of the city in the 17th century. This is followed by a
maze of rooms featuring life size wax figures of your favourite
heads of state, actors, rock gods, artists and footballers.
Have your photo taken with the Dalai Lama, Gandhi, Madonna,
Pablo Picasso or Winston Churchill. Youll no doubt also be blown
away by what a tiny pip-squeak Lenin was or that Ronaldinhos
teeth really are that big! QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission:
adults 19 - 21, children 5 - 15 years 14 - 16, children 4 and
under free. Last admission at 17:30. AU
Museum Amstelkring - Our Lord in the Attic (Mu-
seum Ons Lieve Heer op Solder) B-1, Oudezijds
Voorburgwal 40, tel. (+31) 206 24 66 04, info@opsolder.
nl, www.opsolder.nl. From the outside you would never
know that this typical canal house hides an interesting secret
and thats exactl y what its architect had in mind. For many
years Catholics were prohibited from openl y worshipping in
Amsterdam and the solution for many was to hold services
in secret. A weal thy German merchant named Jan Hartman
bought the house you see now in 1661 and slowl y began
building a proper church with an al tar, organ and seating for
over 100 people in the attic. When the ban on Catholicism
was lifted the building was immediately turned into a museum,
which is why it has survived completel y intact to this day. You
can take a tour of the building and see how the famil y lived at
the time and walk up the same wooden staircase that count-
less Catholics used to reach the beautiful church. Al though it
is currentl y being renovated and will include a visitors centre
next door by 2013, the building is still open to the public.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults
8, children 6 - 18 years 4, children under 6 free.
Museum Geelvinck G-7, Keizersgracht 633, tel. (+31)
207 15 59 00, www.museumgeelvinck.nl. Enter the build-
ing and walk through the beautiful garden to reach this hidden
gem of a canal house. Original Golden Age furniture, frescos,
musical instruments and marble floors are all available for your
perusal in four rooms on the ground floor while the cellar hosts
exhibitions like the current Treasure from Indonesia which
will be open to the public until October. Most of the exhibits
are onl y available in Dutch but you can read a brochure about
the building to get the gist of things. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Tue. Admission: adul t 8, children 6 - 18 years 4,
children 5 and under free.
Museum of Bags and Purses (Tassen Museum
Hendrikje) B-3, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24
64 52, www.museumofbagsandpurses.com. What began
as Hendrikje Ivos obsession with purses blossomed into the
worlds largest collection of handbags and purses with over
4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years. Located in a prestigious
17th-century home that once belonged to the then mayor of
Amsterdam, the museum begins on the top floor where you
can view satchels, boxes and letter cases from the 16th - 19th
centuries made from every material imaginable including ivory,
tortoiseshell, leather, lace, silk, straw and wood. 20th-century
exhibits include funky Art Deco purses as well as bags made
from exotic animals like ostriches, crocodiles and, yes, even
armadillos. A large collection of famous designer bags is also
on display including labels like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, D&G and
many others while contemporary exhibitions are on view on
the ground floor. Naturall y, no purse museum would be com-
plete without a museum shop where you can buy bags and
accessories to remember your visit. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adul ts 7.50, children under 12 free. AK
Museum Willet-Holthuysen H-5, Herengracht 605,
tel. (+31) 205 23 18 22, www.willetholthuysen.nl. This
beautiful 17th-century canal house and museum is located
onl y a short walk from Rembrandtplein. Begin with a short
documentary film wi th English subti tles at the end of the
entrance hall to get a better idea about the house and its
eccentric owners. It was donated to the city in 1895 by the
last childless member of the famil y, Mrs. Willet-Hol thuysen,
and has been a museum ever since. Al though it was dam-
aged in WWII, it was renovated and re-opened in 1950. Take
a look at the original kitchen with a tile tableau and a dining
room table set as if the famil y were still expecting guests.
The grand blue ballroom offers paintings, murals and high
ceilings wi th huge chandeliers and all of the walls in the
staircases are covered in marble. The top floor is more or
less an exhibi t displaying many of the unique art objects
and antiquities collected by Abraham Willet on his extensive
19th-century travels and the magnificent manicured garden
is also open to the public. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 8, children 6 - 18 years 4,
children 5 and under free.
Street performer near the Royal Palace Lya Cattel
Are you Amsterdam? Ilse Ouwens
60
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
NEMO Science Centre H-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31)
205 31 32 33, info@e-nemo.nl, www.e-nemo.nl. Look
for the big green building jutting out into the water to find
this fun science centre that will make you wish you were a
kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and unreserved
awe will accompany you on a variety of levels where visitors
can learn about science without the boring textbooks and
teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or
lots of other hands on activities on the first floor and watch
Rupe Goldeberg machines on the second or learn how objects
can be moved with light. You can also see how fuel engines
work or touch a real, 4.65 billion-year-old meteorite; discover
why teenagers look, feel and act the way they do; see how
our daily lives will change in the future with new and advanced
technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. You can also
bring your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or buy some
food on the top floor terrace caf that offers a great view of
the city. A good museum shop is also available where you can
buy science experiments and other fun souvenirs for kids.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 12.50,
children 3 and under free. AK
Rijksmuseum G-8, Museumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1,
tel. (+31) 206 74 70 47, www.rijksmuseum.com. This
colossal building occupies nearl y an entire ci ty block and
lies in stark contrast to most of the citys narrow canal-side
abodes. Al though most of the museum is currentl y being
renovated, its most popular exhibits dedicated to the Dutch
old masters are still open to the public. Upon entering youre
confronted by an eclectic collection of all things Dutch includ-
ing a 17th-century canon, a massive model ship and Van der
Helsts giant canvas Banquet in Celebration of the Treaty
of Munster. View ancient weapons, gold and sil ver artefacts
and of course an incredible collection of the nations best
old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and Steen.
Scenes depict everything from biblical tales and windmilled
landscapes to portrai ts and illustrations of 17th-century
famil y life, not to mention exotic scenes from Hollands far
flung Golden Age colonies. Some of the museums most
famous paintings like Rembrandts The Jewish Bride and
The Night Watch are also described in detail in laminated
information cards, so you can take your time and discover
interesting facts about each of these canvases. Queues can
be long at peek times, mostl y due to security checks, so
plan accordingl y. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission: adul ts
12.50, 18 and under free.
The Amsterdam Dungeon A-2, Rokin 78, tel. (+31)
205 30 85 00, www.the-dungeons.nl. If youve ever been
to a haunted house or similar attraction, then youll get the
general idea behind this interactive journey through the darker
side of 17th-century Amsterdam. But before you enter, bear
in mind that the experience isnt reall y appropriate for chil-
dren under 10, you will definitel y be called on by one of the
actors to participate in some way and the long walk through
this gruesome maze can take over an hour of your time so
definitely visit the toilets, as they recommend, before embark-
ing on your adventure. Inside youll see medieval inquisitors,
ghosts, quack doctors, pirates, plague victims and other as-
sorted rogues from the citys distant history and learn about
Rembrandts shocking secret followed by a roller coaster ride
in the dark! QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 14.70
- 21, children 11.20 - 16. Last tour at 17:00. A
NEW
The Op Art Museum F-5, Singel 250, tel. (+31) 206
85 10 11, info@op-artmuseum.com, op-artmuseum.com.
The Op Art Museum is the latest addition to the Amsterdam
museum scene. Its premises are particularl y well-known by
locals as the place where the first (and only) speed boat bank
robbery took place. Optical illusions are the main theme of
this pretty canal house and its most remarkable feature is
that youre allowed to touch almost everything on display and
to take pictures. Its actuall y encouraged! 170 works of art
take you on a journey through the history of deception. In an
old vaul t you can even produce your own work of art using a
kind of old school Lego set. Even the keenest of observers will
be taken in and it might take a few minutes before you notice
a cow sitting down or a moving steam ship in the world of
Escher and other great artists. Free admission every Sunday
morning from 10:00 - 12:00. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admis-
sion: adul ts 3 (the price will increase when the museum is
completel y opened). PTJUG
Torture Museum A-3, Singel 449, tel. (+31) 203 20
66 42, www.torturemuseum.nl. All major European cities
seem to have a torture museum, so it comes as no surprise
that Amsterdam also has a place where tourists can see
how human beings were humiliated and tormented in past
centuries. Many of the agony-inflicting devices on display
have clever monikers like the neck violin, the Spanish horse
and the infamous iron maiden, while others have much more
commonplace names like the rack, the guillotine, the garrotte
or thumbscrews. Although not an implement of torture per se,
the chastity bel t exhibit could certainl y put a crimp in a young
ladys lifestyle and is definitely not something youll be seeing
in a Victorias Secret catalogue any time soon. The grill, the
stake and the gallows need no explanation. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. Admission: 7.50, children 4. A
Tropenmuseum K-5, Linnaeusstraat 2, tel. (+31)
205 68 82 00, www.tropenmuseum.nl. Housed in a
monumental building that is also home to the Royal Tropical
Institute, this museum is a must for students of anthropology
and ethnography and anyone who appreciates non-Western
cul tures. Unlike many museums that are simpl y a catalogue
of artefacts from ancient times and extinct civilisations, the
Tropics Museum not onl y offers examples of antique art, but
also household items and objects used in the dail y lives of
vibrant, living cul tures throughout the tropical regions of the
world from Indian Boll ywood posters to African ads for hair
salons. A cafeteria serving food and drink from the regions
covered in the museum including South East Asian beer like
Singha and Chang is also available as well as a museum
shop selling interesting gifts. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Ad-
mission: adul ts 9, children 6 - 17 years 5, children 5 and
under free. AK
Central Station Lya Cattel
WHAT TO SEE
61
WHAT TO SEE
Van Loon Museum (Museum Van Loon) G-7,
Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www.
museumvanloon.nl. This magnificent building owned by the
Van Loon famil y trust has a rich and storied history and is one
of the few remaining examples of authentic Dutch golden age
homes in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt
apprentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671
but passed on to different owners over the centuries until it
was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon famil y whose most
illustrious ancestor Willem
van Loon co-founded the
Dutch East India Company.
Al though the fami l y was
one of the citys weal thiest,
they cul ti vated a tradi tion
of opening up their home to
show off i ts splendour and
this tradi tion has survi ved
to this day. View 17th-cen-
tur y por trai ts, peri od fur-
ni ture, 18th-century Dutch
porcelain, spectacular wall
murals, a centuries-old work-
ing kitchen and a spacious
manicured garden all in the
centre of Amsterdam. As you
walk around its sumptuous
rooms you might even run into one of the Van Loons who
still stay in the home from time to time. Theyll tell you to
have a seat on one of the priceless sofas to trul y enjoy the
experience - something for which youd no doubt be arrested
at other local museums. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission: 7.
Vodka Museum A-1, Damrak 33, tel. (+31) 205 28
54 82, info@vodkamuseum.com, www.vodkamuseum.
com. Now you may be thinking, what does vodka have to do
with the Netherlands and why should there be a museum
dedicated to Russias national spirit in Amsterdam? These are
both good questions, but as long as you can do shots at the
end of the tour, does the answer reall y matter? Learn about
the history of this clear intoxicant from its origins in the 14th
century when grain replaced grapes as the chief ingredient
in the distilling process and it was onl y imbibed by tsars and
nobility to its evolution as an essential drink in every bar in the
world. You can discover the wide variety of different flavoured
vodkas from simple fruit to hemp and even gold, how each one
affects your sobriety in different ways and the importance of
water quality and the number of times the spirit is distilled. You
can also buy plenty of booze in the shop downstairs, attend
cocktail workshops or just drink at the bar. QOpen 09:00
- 22:00. Admission: adul ts 7.50 (including 1 shot), tour 12
(including 3 shots), children 5 - 15 years 2. A
Onl y in Amsterdam
Erotic Museum Amsterdam Oudezijds Achterburgwal
54, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 54, www.erotisch-mu-
seum.nl. If youre already exploring Europes number one
Red Light district then you might as well visit this interesting
museum thats not nearl y as tacky as it seems. Inside you
can view ancient Chinese artefacts depicting sex acts, lusty
gods and goddesses getting busy on Greek pottery and
horny lovers on old Japanese silk paintings. Youll no doubt
also be as shocked as we were to encounter Le Pulsoconn
- a mechanical vibrator from the 1880s that no one in their
right mind would want to use anywhere near their genitals.
Erotic cartoons of Snow White getting to know her dwarfs
intimatel y and old pornography are also on offer. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Admission: 7.
The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum B-2, Ou-
dezijds Achterburgwal 148, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 26,
hashmuseum.com. This fascinating museum is currentl y
being renovated, so you have to walk a few doors down to
view a temporary exhibition that includes some of the best
objects from its collection which will be on display until the
museum reopens at the end of the summer. Discover the
long history of hemp and its many practical uses throughout
the ages as sails, riggings and ropes on Phoenecian ships as
earl y as 400BC and as canvases and oil paints for Dutch old
masters as well as for more mundane things like clothes and
paper. Naturally, the exhibition also traces the evolution of the
plant as a popular drug, but many of the exhibits focus on the
modern uses of hemp as fireproof insulation, construction
materials and even as door panels for BMWs. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. Admission: adul ts 9, children free.
Venus Temple Sex Museum
(Sexmuseum Venustempel)
A-1, Damrak 18, tel. (+31) 206
22 83 76, www.sexmuseumam-
sterdam.nl. I f, like most visi tors,
you arri ved at the Central Station
and walked down the crowded Dam-
rak you no doubt noticed the Venus
Temple, which is a bit tacky but also
a classic Amsterdam attraction on
four floors and a bargain at onl y 4.
You can take a look at ancient erotic
woodcarvings from Indian temples, scrimshaw dildos and
18th-century silk paintings of sexual acts from China and
Japan. Youll also see mannequins of flashers and prosti-
tutes, old porno films and some provocative black and white
photographs, including a 100-year-old image of a woman with
a gas mask, strap-on and whip that proves that the human
race has al ways been perverted. QOpen 09:30 - 23:30.
Admission: 4; entrance from16 years of age.
62
WHAT TO SEE
GETTING AROUND
Parks & Gardens
Artis Zoo I-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. (+31)
90 02 78 47 96, www.artis.nl. Founded in 1838, Artis is
the oldest zoo in the Netherlands and home to roughl y 700
species of fauna and 200 species of flora. The sprawling
park not onl y offers a huge collection of exotic animals from
near and far, but also an impressi ve aquarium as well as
two museums dedicated to geology and zoology. Many of
the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo live outdoors so you
can see camels lounging in the sand or Japanese macaques
jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants, buffalo and giraffes
in their enclosures or head over to the top-notch reptile house
to see pythons, giant tortoises and crocodiles or all manner
of creepy-crawlies in the Insect House. You can also view noc-
turnal creatures in the Jungle by Night exhibit, Chimpanzees in
the monkey house and strange forms of life from the planets
oceans in the aquarium. Two cafs and a large childrens play-
ground are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission:
adul ts 18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50. AK
Hortus Botanical Gardens (Hortus Botanicus
Amsterdam) I-5, Plantage Middenlaan 2a, tel. (+31)
206 25 90 21, www.dehortus.nl. Located in the quiet
neighbourhood of the Plantage, the Hortus Botanical Garden
has been fascinating naturalists, botanists and fans of beauty
for over 300 years making it one of the oldest such gardens
in the world. Al though onl y a little over one hectare in size,
Hortus boasts over 4,000 species of plants from around the
globe throughout its gardens and greenhouses, nearl y all of
which are open to the public. It specialises in cycads, or palm
trees, the oldest of which was brought to the Netherlands on a
V.O.C. ship centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since
1856. You can wander around the grounds and view beautiful
flowers, carnivorous florae, a rare Australian pine thought
extinct until 1994 and even a redwood tree, which, if allowed
to grow on its own, might just change the citys skyline in a
few generations. You can also walk through the tropical and
desert greenhouses, but dont miss the butterfl y house. You
can also buy plants at its shop or have lunch at its caf that
hosts live jazz on Sundays in summer. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adul ts 7.50, children 5
- 14 years 3.50, children 4 and under free. K
Places of interest
Brewers Canal (Brouwersgracht) D-5, Between the
Singel and Lijnbaansgracht. Al though Amsterdam has no
shortage of picturesque canals, this beautiful waterway is
one of the citys prettiest and in our opinion outshines other
scenic stretches such as the Golden Bend. The Brewers
Canal began its existence in the 17th century but earned its
name hundreds of years later when many beer brewers chose
to set up shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the
centre, the atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most
of the tiny little houses along the way have brightl y painted
shutters and the canal is covered in small bridges.
National Monument A-2, Dam. I ts hard to miss the
central monument on Dam Square thats often occupied
by people of all ages and nationalities sunning themsel ves,
reading books or just relaxing. The brainchild of renowned
Dutch architect J.J.P. Oud (1890 - 1963), the National Monu-
ment made of white travertine was unveiled in 1956 as both a
memorial to all Dutch men and women who suffered under the
Nazi occupation of the Netherlands and to the nations libera-
tion. A number of statues and reliefs symbolise the resistance
expressed by all members of society from labourers to the
intelligentsia and the lions on either side represent the Dutch
nation. The giant pillar rises to a height of 22m.
Sightseeing tours
AllTourNative Amsterdam C-5, Rombout Hogerbeets
Straat 19-1, tel. (+31) 624 99 07 21, www.alltournative-
amsterdam.com. AllTourNative is run by foreign expats who
have lived and worked in Amsterdam for several years, which
means that they can see the city both as visitors and as locals
adding a unique perspective to their tours. They specialise
in the local and al ternative side of Amsterdam that tourists
seldom see. You can take bicycle, walking or boat tours to
cool places you wont read about in guidebooks or unique, off-
the-beaten-track tours of graffiti, squatters villages and other
hidden gems. But if youre looking for something less active
they can also arrange a visit to parks, the beach or bars and
coffeeshops frequented by locals, not to mention underground
parties. They can also custom tailor their tours and provide
an incredible local experience for all budgets.
Keytours Excursions E-8, Paulus Potterstraat 8, tel.
(+31) 203 05 53 33, www.keytours.nl. This company
organises more tours than there are tourists in Amsterdam.
Some sound a bit tacky like the Pizza Cruise or Candlelight
Cruise, but this is one of the better options in town if you dont
have a lot of time and youd like to save some cash. Keytours
is located at the same address as the Diamond Museum
Amsterdam. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. JA
Mikes Bike Tours F-7,
Kerkstraat 134, tel. (+31)
206 22 79 70, www.
mikesbiketoursamster-
dam.com. Two dail y tours
show you the hidden gems
of the inner ci ty (16:00) or
the enchanting surroundings
of the Dutch countr ysi de
(11:00). Dont expect bor-
ing guides who try to pass
the time by spouting dr y
facts. The entertaining staff
attempt to make the experi-
ence as fun as possible. Q
(15 - 22). JA
Canal tours
Canal Bus G-8, Weteringschans 26-1hg, tel. (+31) 206
26 55 74, info@canal.nl, www.canal.nl. Canal bus offers a
huge network of comfortable canal boats that take passen-
gers on four different routes with 20 stops. The boats pass
by some of the citys best attractions and museums, which
is why you can buy a day-pass or a 48-hour ticket so you can
hop on and off and see all of the sights that interest you. Stops
include the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum as well
as the Anne Frank House and the Hermitage among other
destinations. Canal bus also offers night cruises and theme
cruises with dinner, candlelight and cocktails. Q A
St. Nicolaas Boat Club F-7, Leidseplein 12, www.
amsterdamboatclub.com. This is a group of crazy and
stubborn volunteers that have operated a couple of boats
since 1997 as a non-profit organisation. Theyre not profes-
sionals, but their boat rides are more fun than most ordinary
tours. Who else allows you to smoke and drink along the way?
Part of the fun is that the boats are open to all elements, so
make sure you wear appropriate clothing. Officiall y these
boats have been illegal for the past 15 years, but because
all passengers are close friends of the captain, the cops
cant do anything. Tipping is allowed and greatl y appreciated
(around 10/person).
Aquarium at Artis Zoo MZ
WHAT TO SEE
63
GETTING AROUND
Bicycle rental
Holland Rent a Bike A-2, Damrak 247, tel. (+31) 206
22 32 07. Al though the name may not be the most original,
this companys service is outstanding. It rents and repairs
bikes, steps and scooters. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00
- 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JA
Mac Bike H-5, Waterlooplein 199, tel. (+31) 204 28
70 05, www.macbike.nl. For more than two decades Mac
Bike has been been renting bikes to Amsterdams tourists
and with four locations around town, its handy too. It also
sells and repairs bicycles and offers tours of the city. QOpen
09:00 - 17:45. Also at Stationsplein 5; Weteringschans 2;
Marnixstraat 220.
Mikes Bike Rental Shop G-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel.
(+31) 206 22 79 70, mikesbiketoursamsterdam@yahoo.
com, www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com. Mikes Bikes
is famous all over Europe for its sightseeing tours, but we
recommend its beach cruisers with special tires that hardl y
ever go flat. Each bike also comes with two locks, which isnt
a bad idea in Amsterdam where bike theft is as common as
dope smoke. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. (5 - 15). YJA
Orangebike Dam A-2, Singel 233, tel. (+31) 205 28
99 90, info@orangebike.nl, www.orangebike.nl. This
company rents a wide variety of bikes including city bikes,
kids bikes and beach cruisers starting at 11.50/day. Two
locks are given with each bike and you can also buy theft
insurance for an extra 3. You can take one of its guided
bicycle tours, too. Q A
Recycled Rentals A-2, Spuistraat 84a, tel. (+31) 654
68 14 29, rentals@recycledrentals.com, www.recycled-
rentals.com. This company claims to have the cheapest bike
rental in town and at onl y 5/day, it might be right.
Rent a Dutch bike E-8, Overtoom 45, tel. (+31)
206 83 33 69, info@dutchbikeamsterdam.nl, www.
dutchbikeamsterdam.nl. This place has everything from
bikes and scooters to tandem, cargo or kids bikes. Deposit
and ID required. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Reguliers
Dwarsstraat 97. J
Solex Tours Brouwersgracht 163hs, tel. (+31) 627 10
12 91, www.solextoursamsterdam.nl. Sick of the pedal-
ling around Amsterdam? Hire a solex and let this electric
bike do all the work.
Boat rental
Boaty Jozef Israelskade, tel. (+31) 627 14 94 93, info@
boaty.nl, www.boaty.nl. Why take a canal boat tour when
you can rent your own boat and ferry around your friends?
You dont even need a licence to drive these electric powered
vessels! The company is located near the Hotel Okura on the
Jozef Israelskade.
Canal Bike H-8, Weteringschans 26-1hg, tel. (+31) 90
03 33 44 42, info@canal.nl, www.canal.nl. Rents pedal
boats for Amsterdam canals near the Rijksmuseum.
Sloep Delen F-6, Herengracht 282, tel. (+31) 206 93
40 15, info@sloepdelen.nl, www.sloepdelen.nl. This
company rents 15 electric boats from two locations at Nas-
saukade 69 and at Borneosteiger 1. You can reserve a date
and time online. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Car rental
Auto Europe www.autoeurope.com.
Avis Aankomstpassage 5, tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50,
www.avis.nl. The cars are divided in small, medium and large
and are available from 40 per day. Also at Aaron Copland-
straat 6 and Nassaukade 380 QOpen 06:30 - 23:30.
Europcar Aankomstpassage 10, tel. (+31) 203 16
41 90, fax (+31) 206 04 14 39, amsterdam.airport@
europcar.nl, www.europcar.com. Cars from 40 per day.
Also at Overtoom 197 and Snijdersbergweg 99. QOpen
06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. A
Taxis
MotorTaxi Tel. (+31) 203 30 22 88.
Taxidirect Tel. (+31) 206 33 33 33.
TCA Taxi Tel. (+31) 207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl.
This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Station,
Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederiksplein
and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them and order
a cab any time of the day or night. Drivers are safe and reli-
able. Q Open 24hrs.
Train tickets
The blue-yellow ticket machines are easily recognisable and
can be found at various places in the central hall. They work
with the help of a touchscreen and can also display a menu
in English. Choose, on the left side of the screen, what type
of ticket youd like: a single ticket, a return, a 5-day ticket (5
loose returns youll have to stamp before you board) or a
weekend return (valid from Friday night at 19:00). Children
under the age of 11 can travel with a discount. Next, choose
your destination, first or second class, full price or discount
(for discounts you will need a special discount card), whether
the ticket needs to be stamped or whether it already has
a printed date, the number of tickets and your payment
method. The ticket machine takes all cards with a Maestro
logo, in principle - but to be sure, its safer to have some cash.
The machine does not take any bank notes, but you do get
change. Dont forget to take your ticket from the dispenser
at the bottom left of the machine. Q
64
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
Shops are never short on cheese Lya Cattel
Amsterdam has it all as far as shopping is concerned from
the big brands to hip little boutiques. For standard interna-
tional fashion like H&M and Footlocker take a stroll down
the pedestrian Kalverstraat. If you can afford such names
as Vuitton, Bulgari and Chanel then drive your Ferrai over
to P.C. Hooftsraat in the Museum Quarter. Antique lovers
will find a whole street lined with shops selling old maps,
books, Delft tiles, furniture and art at Nieuwe Spiegel-
straat leading up to the Rijksmuseum and shoppers who
prefer small, yet trendy boutiques, family-run delicates-
sens and a generally fun street devoid of international
chains should walk the length of the Haarlemmerstraat
and Haarlemmerdijk. You can also find all kinds of interest-
ing exotic sauces, spices and kitchenware in Chinatown
near the Nieuwmarkt and funky interior design elements
on Overtoom.
Alcohol & Beer shops
Cracked Kettle A-3, Raamsteeg 3, tel. (+31) 206 24
07 45, www.crackedkettle.com. This cosy shop thats
decorated in rustic fashion offers a great variety of boutique
wines and special ty beers. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. A
De Bierkoning A-2, Paleisstraat 125, tel. (+31) 206
25 23 36, fax (+31) 842 23 39 57, shop@bierkoning.nl,
www.bierkoning.nl. With roughl y 1100 beers from Europe
and the States available on the premises, this brew shop is
probabl y the best stocked of its genre in Amsterdam. It also
sells some cider and loads of souvenir beer glasses. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
13:00 - 18:00. A
De Wijnproevers D-3, Haarlemmerdijk 59, tel. (+31)
204 20 08 21, www.wijnproevers.nl. Al though this shop
is quite small it has an excellent selection of spirits, wine and
especiall y beer. Buy local microbrews from the Amsterdam
IJ and de Prael breweries here. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon
13:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. A
Gall & Gall F-5, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226A, tel.
(+31) 204 21 83 70, www.gall.nl. A large chain of top-
notch shops selling premium wines and spiri ts. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Also at Utrechtsestraat
67, tel. (+31) 206 23 62 96. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00; and at many other locations. A
Antiques
Antiquariaat Lont E-4, Herenstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206
26 39 82, www.antiquariaat-lont.nl. Owner Marieke Lont
specialises in antique books, posters and postcards. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Antiquarian Hoogkamp G-8, Spiegelgracht 27, tel.
(+31) 206 25 88 52, www.prenten.net. An excellent
selection of antique prints, maps, ci tyscapes and botani-
cals from the 16th - 20th centuries. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
De Friedesche Molen A-3, Rosmarijnsteeg 6, tel.
(+31) 206 25 59 47, www.friedeschemolen.nl. Antique
books and first editions in a variety of languages including
novels by Hemingway, Kafka and Joyce. Q
Egidius E-3, Haarlemmerstraat 87, tel. (+31) 206 24
32 55, www.antiqbook.com. Old books from literature to
art books in a wide variety of languages and some antique
maps and prints, too. Q
Kramer Kunst & Antiek G-7, Prinsengracht 807, tel.
(+31) 206 26 11 16, www.antique-tileshop.nl. Old delft-
ware tiles, vases and other antiques including jewellery and
glassware. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Silkwood Antiques F-8, Spiegelgracht 30, tel. (+31)
653 86 22 70. Delft tiles, fabric, paintings, jewellery, prints
and furniture. QOpen 12:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
Bags, purses & Luggage
Bonnier E-3, Haarlemmerstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 26
49 91. At Bonnier you can expect a wide assortment of bags,
purses, backpacks and Samsonite luggage sold by a friendl y
husband and wife team. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sat 10:30
- 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Crumpler Amsterdam E-3, Haarlemmerdijk 31, tel.
(+31) 206 20 24 54, www.crumpler.nl. This German
company sells unique, trendy bags for photo equipment,
laptops and everday life. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00
- 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00
- 17:00. A
Mono Amsterdam E-4, Haarlemmerstraat 16, tel.
(+31) 204 21 50 78, www.mono-amsterdam.com. Unique
and stylish purses, bags, wallets and accessories. QOpen
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Books
The American Book Center A-3, Spui 12, tel. (+31)
206 25 55 37, www.abc.nl. Book lovers could spend days
in this temple to English-language literature. Skip the coffee
table books and magazines on the ground floor and climb up
to the next two floors for novels, travel, history, sci-fi, fantasy,
political science and even manga. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Mon 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30.
Closed Sun. A
The English Bookstore B-3, Kalverstraat 223. English
language books from Hemingway to Stephanie Meyer at
discounted prices. Most new paperbacks sell for around
5. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun 12:30 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00. A
Waterstones A-3, Kalverstraat 152, tel. (+31) 206 38
38 21, www.waterstones.nl. An outstanding selection of
English language literature including books on travel, history
and poli tics not to mention contemporary fiction, classic
novels, magazines and newspapers on four floors. QOpen
09:30 - 18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
Cheese
Amsterdams Kaashuis A-1, Haringpakkerssteeg 10,
tel. (+31) 206 24 10 06. Although it looks like a tourist trap,
where else can you watch cheese being made in the centre
of Amsterdam? Cheese, chocolates and other souvenirs are
sold here and its also a good place to taste cheese for free.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. A
Reypenaer E-5, Singel 182, tel. (+31) 203 20 63 33,
www.reypenaer.nl. Buy exclusive aged Dutch cheeses or
come to one of its organised tastings for onl y 10. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
SHOPPING
65
SHOPPING
Chocolates & Sweets
Jordino D-3, Haarlemmerdijk 25, tel. (+31) 204 20
32 25, www.jordino.nl. FInd incredible creations made
by master chocolatiers from chocolate truffles and molded
animals to high-heeled shoes and even mini-Louis Vui ton
purses made of chocolate. A wide range of ice cream, gelato
and sherbet are also on offer. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon,
Sun 13:00 - 19:00.
Vonderdonk F-7, Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 72, tel. (+31)
206 20 27 77, www.vanderdonkchocolates.nl. Exclusive
high end cocoa products, ice cream and even beer and
wine that tastes like chocolate. Also sells organic, fair trade
chocolates. Recommended. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat
10:30 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:30. A
Delftware
Jorrit Heinen Delft Shop F-7, Prinsengracht 440, tel.
(+31) 206 27 82 99, www.jorritheinen.com. An official
dealer of Royal Delft porcelain from cutesy souvenirs and
tiles to upmarket vases and flatware. It also has an outlet in
the historic Munttoren (Mint Tower). QOpen 09:30 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
Rinascimento Delf tware E-5, Prinsengracht 170,
tel. (+31) 206 22 75 09, www.delft-art-gallery.com.
Across the canal from the Westerkerk, this official Delftware
factory dealer sells everything from plates, tiles and vases
to beauti ful Christmas ornaments - the perfect souvenir.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Delicatessens & Food
Delicious Food D-5, Westerstraat 24, tel. (+31) 203 20
30 70, www.deliciousfood.nl. Delicious Food specialises in
dried fruits and nuts, gourmet pasta and organic grains and
cereals as well as organic juice, wine and beer. Some sweets
and chocolates are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
De Natuurwinkel D-3, Haarlemmerdijk 160, tel. (+31)
206 26 63 10. Shop in a large supermarket that onl y sells
eco-friendl y or organic food. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
Eichholtz F-7, Leidsestraat 48, tel. (+31) 206 22 03
05. This delicatessen has been in operation since 1888,
but now it specialises in food products from the US and UK
for homesick Americans and Brits. Buy anything from Fruit
Loops and A&W root beer to eggnog and Aunt Jemima syrup
for inflated prices. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Fishes H-7, Utrechtsestraat 98, tel. (+31) 206 26 85
00, www.fishes.nl. For all your fresh fish needs from mus-
sels, salmon, calamari and scallops to prepared seafood
salads. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Tampopo E-3, Haarlemmerdijk 168, tel. (+31) 206 20 07
03, www.tampopo.nl. This Asian delicatessen and supermar-
ket is full of all kinds of goodies from ready to eat sushi and
beer from Laos to exotic pickled vegetables, dried fish, oils and
sauces. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A
Tjins Toko H-9, 1e van der Helststraat 64, tel. (+31)
206 71 77 08, www.tjinstoko.nl. Buy Asian sauces and
Latin American beans or American junk food like Aunt Jemima
syrup and Fruit Loops here or order Indonesian and Surinamese
dishes from its deli. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Toko Ramee G-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat 74, tel. (+31)
206 64 87 74, www.tokoramee.com. This shop in De Pijp
sells Indonesian and Asian food, sauces, spices and other
food related products. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00
Department stores
de Bijenkorf A-2, Dam 1, www.debijenkorf.nl. This
posh department store on Dam Square offers two cafs, a
restaurant, men and womens fashion, homewares and lots
of other upmarket shopping on six floors. The place to go for
the expensive brands like Vuitton, Fendi and Hermes. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:30 - 19:00. AK
Kalvertoren A-3, Kalverstraat 212-220, www.kalverto-
ren.nl. A large shopping centre on the Kalverstraat. QOpen
10:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:30.
Magna Plaza A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182, www.
magnaplaza.nl. Situated in a former central post office build-
ing just behind Dam Square, this grand shopping centre offers
plenty of upmarket shops and high street brands. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
Erotic gear
Absolute Danny B-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 78, tel.
(+31) 204 21 09 15, www.absolutedanny.com. Absolute
Danny has probabl y the largest selection of rubber, leather
and other sexy fetish gear from pink thigh-high boots and cor-
sets to masks and whips. So get ready to bring out the gimp!
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. A
Christine le Duc B-2, Oude Doelenstraat 10, tel. (+31)
206 22 67 53, www.christineleduc.nl. Sexy lingerie,
technologicall y advanced vibrating equipment, lubricants
and other accessories for the most discerning fetishist. You
can also order online. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Wed 10:00
- 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
Female & Partners A-2, Spuistraat 100, tel. (+31)
206 20 91 52, www.femaleandpartners.nl. Discover an
excellent assortment of sexy womens lingerie from traditional
silk and lace to leather and latex, not to mention classy sex
toys, bondage accessories and lubricants. In short, its a sex
shop for the refined female shopper. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30,
Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00. A
Fashion
Black Sheep Road E-4, Herenstraat 6, www.black-
sheeproad.com. Al though black sheep refers to an odd
or disreputable member of a group or famil y in the English
language, this shop sells streetwear and high fashion cloth-
ing that will help you dress for success. A mi x of brands
you wont find in average shops can be found here on the
Herenstraat or on i ts websi te. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Hebbes! G-9, Frans Halsstraat
35, tel. (+31) 207 89 39 72,
hebbesvdv@gmail.com, www.
hebbesvdv.nl. Hebbes! has racks
full of colourful, cheerful and fash-
ionable jewellery, clothing, hats,
bags and shoes in all styles from vintage to contemporary
for women of all ages. The owner is passionate about her
shop and treats all shoppers as if they were old friends.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JL
Ilovevintage E-5, Prinsengracht 201, tel. (+31) 203 30
19 50, www.ilovevintage.nl. This boutique sells vintage
clothing, footwear, purses and other fashion accessories,
but if youre too lazy to go to the Prinsengracht you can also
shop on i ts websi te. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:30
66
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
Gifts & Souvenirs
Dam Square Souvenirs A-2, Dam 17 - 19, tel. (+31)
206 20 34 32, souvenirs@dutchsouvenirs.com, www.
dutchsouvenirs.com. This huge shop is positivel y bursting
with souvenirs from Delft ceramics, t-shirts, beer mugs and
tulips to its speciality - traditional wooden clogs that hang
from the ceiling. If you cant find it just look for the giant yellow
clog outside. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PTJA
Heineken The City B-3, Amstelstraat 31, tel. (+31)
205 30 47 70, www.heineken.nl. A heaven for Heineken
lovers, this massive glass and steel shop on two and half
floors sells everything from typical beer souvenirs like t-shirts,
bottle openers and glasses to mini-keg coolers, giant bean
bags and even sports jackets and dresses with the famous
red star logo. Oh, and they also have a huge selection of
chilled Heineken beer. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Knuffels-Pluche-Klompenboer B-2, Sint Antonies-
breestraat 39 - 51, tel. (+31) 204 27 38 62, www.
knuffels.com. Like the Dutch name suggests, this place
sells toys, gadgets and tradi tional wooden shoes. The
latter are made in the shops own factory. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. A
Head & Smart shops
ASG Gif ts (Allstar Genetics) B-2, St. Antonies-
breestraat 15, tel. (+31) 207 54 28 13. All the seeds you
could need as well as some t-shirts and souvenirs can be found
here near the Nieuwmarkt. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. A
Elements of Nature B-1, Warmoesstraat 97, tel. (+31)
206 20 79 16. A smart shop where you can purchase mush-
rooms, seeds, smoking accessories, psychedelic herbs and
other fun stuff. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Hempshopper A-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 80, tel.
(+31) 205 28 55 56, www.hempshopper.com. This shop
specialises in seeds, hemp clothing and accessories as
well as some practical purchases like vaporisers and bongs.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. A
Kokopelli A-2, Warmoesstraat 12, tel. (+31) 204 21 70
00, www.kokopelli.nl. If youre looking for entheogenics
(otherwise known as psychoactive substances), herbal es
(also known as natural stimulants), seeds, vitamins, smart
products, books and plenty of souvenirs, Kokopelli wont let
you down. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
The Head Shop B-2, Kloveniersburgwal 39, tel. (+31)
206 24 90 61, www.headshop.nl. One of the citys oldest
head shops, which has been in operation since 1968, still sells
all manner of bongs, hash pipes and smoking accessories as
well as incense and souvenirs. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
Interior design & Furniture
Vintage Home H-9, Daniel
Stalpertstraat 97, tel. (+31)
206 79 04 72, info@vintage-
home.nl, www.vintagehome.
nl. In the heart of De Pijp youll find
this 250m
2
vintage shop with great
designer furni ture from the late
1950s to the earl y 1980s. Even
if you dont buy anything here, which is hard to imagine,
youll have gained enough inspiration to redecorate your
home. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. TAL
Kids stuff
Kinder f eestwinkel Gerard
Doustraat 65, tel. (+31) 206 72
22 15, info@kinderfeestwinkel.
nl, www.kinderfeestwinkel.nl. If
youre looking for quality products
you wont be disappointed, but if youd prefer the cheap
stuff you find in supermarkets you might want to shop
someplace else. Thousands of i tems including toys,
fun necessities for childrens parties, games and even
Christmas decorations in fairy tale style can be found
here. Dont forget to look up as even the ceiling is covered
in colourful childrens gadgets. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. TJAL
Markets
Albert Cuyp Market (Albert Cuypmarkt) H-9,
Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com. This
vibrant dail y market located in the bohemian De Pijp district
is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery, fresh seafood
like crab and lobster, flowers, lingerie, souvenirs, fresh fruit,
hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more things you cant
do without as well as plenty of food stalls. QOpen 09:00
Flower Market (Bloemenmarkt) A/B-3, Singel (Be-
tween Koningsplein and Muntplein). The Flower Market is
a tourist attraction and a functioning market in one. Al though
its often called the worlds onl y floating flower market, most
of the browsing takes place on dry land as the stalls are
located on barges moored on the Singel and al though its
quite attractive when walking past, its actuall y a bit of an
eyesore when viewed from the other side of the canal. You
can buy bulbs and seeds for all kinds of plants and flowers
and we have to admit that weve also picked up a Venus
fl ytrap kit here, which was a huge hit with kids at home. The
sellers will also send bulbs to your home address abroad
and they know which countries dont allow the importation of
plant materials, so you dont have to worry about having your
purchase confiscated at customs. Locals also buy flowers
here so the prices are actuall y quite reasonable. There are
plenty of cafs and souvenir shops opposi te the market.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30.
Noordermarkt (Boerenmarkt) E-4, Noordermarkt,
www.boerenmarktamsterdam.nl. Every Saturday this
market in the Jordaan district posi ti vel y teems wi th li fe.
Located on a lovel y square in the shadow of the unusual
octagonal Noorderkerk (North Church), you can browse
through stalls selling cheese, vintage clothing, sausages,
fresh produce, antiques and lots of other food and fashion.
I f youre into seafood dont miss the oyster stall where the
friendl y purveyor will prepare the tasty delicacies on the
hal f shell to be consumed right on the spot. QOpen , Sat
09:00 - 16:00.
Musical instruments
Dirk Witte F-7, Vijzelstraat 53 - 55, tel. (+31) 206 26
46 55, www.dirkwitte.nl. This guitar shop sells everything
the budding Jimmy Page might require including high-end mer-
chandise like a vintage Les Paul. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Palm Guitars B-3, s Gravelandse Veer 5, tel. (+31)
204 22 04 45, palmgtr@xs4all.nl, www.palmguitars.
nl. This shop is filled to the rafters with guitars, violins and
dozens of other instruments sold, rented and repaired by
the friendl y owner who seems to trul y enjoy his job. QOpen
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JA
SHOPPING
67
SHOPPING
Music shops
Concerto H-7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206
23 52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Possibly the citys, and
perhaps the nations largest collection of new and used CDs,
DVDs and vinyl spread out across five buildings: one for clas-
sical, another for world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one
dedicated to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used
CDs. Amazing! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A
Flesch Records E-4, Noorderkerkstraat 16, tel. (+31)
206 22 81 85/(+31) 652 65 76 69. This small shop
near the Noordermarkt sells vinyl from Frank Zappa and the
Damned to Nat King Cole as well as old hi-fi equipment, record
needles and even frui t at the weekend. QOpen 13:00 -
17:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Independent Outlet G-7, Vijzelstraat 77, tel. (+31) 204
21 20 96, www.outlet.nl. Al though this shop specialises
in skateboards and related fashion and accessories, it also
has a great selection of punk and hardcore music on vinyl
from 7 Seconds and The Misfits to Bad Brains and Sick of
It All. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun 13:00 - 18:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. A
Record Friend B-2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat 64, tel.
(+31) 206 20 00 84, www.recordfriend.com. Record
Friend has a large collection of vinyl records and record play-
ers. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00.
Record Mania G-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat 30, tel. (+31)
206 20 99 12, www.recordmania.nl. Record Mania has
a great collection of vinyl from old blues and punk records to
soul and funk. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00.
Speciality shops
2theloo A-3, Kalverstraat 126, tel. (+31) 204 20 28
33, www.2theloo.com. For 1 youll get modern, clean
toilets with some artwork, not to mention a shop that sells
loo related products from toilet training books to tampons.
QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:30
- 21:00, Sun 11:30 - 18:30.
Dom A-3, Spuistraat 281A, tel. (+31) 204 28 55 44,
www.dom-shop.com. Visiting one of the outlets of this funky,
German chain of design and accessories shops is like going
to a disco where you can buy all kinds of clever, cool stuff that
you definitely dont need but absolutely have to have. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.
Games Workshop A-2, Rokin 36, tel. (+31) 206 22 38
63, www.games-workshop.com. Adventure board games,
books and hobby and modelling supplies can all be found
here not to mention Lord of the Rings accessories. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00. A
Het is Liefde H-8, Eerste van
der Helststraat 13 - 15, tel.
(+31) 206 71 78 18, inf o@
kinder f eestwinkel.nl, hetis-
liefde.nl. The three owners of
Het is Liefde are former MCs that
have managed to turn their hobby into their livelihood.
This beautifull y furnished shop has it all for the bride and
groom and the whole circus surrounding the big event
and just in case the groom still hasnt quite grasped the
art of spoiling his spouse, books with obvious titles like
Rules of Love and The Modern Mans Handbook are
available to help him out. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. TJ
Jacob Hooy & Co G-5, Kloveniersburgwal 12, tel. (+31)
206 24 30 41, www.jacob-hooy.com. Al though this shop
now specialises in vitamins, supplements and heal th food,
Jacob Hooy & Co began its existence at this address as a
pharmacy in 1743 and i ts beautiful antique interior looks
much as it did back then. Its worth a visit for this reason
alone! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00.
Muzikat G-5, St. Antoniesbreestraat 3-G, tel. (+31)
203 20 03 86, www.muzikatmusicbooks.com. If youre
into music from the blues and classic rock to reggae, punk
and al ternative, then youll love this shop that specialises in
books, original rock magazines from the 1960s and 1970s,
authentic tour posters, photographs of famous bands and
other music memorabilia. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Space Oddity E-6, Prinsengracht 204, tel. (+31) 204
27 40 36, www.spaceoddity.nl. This is the place for film
and TV action figures and collectibles from the Twilight saga
and Harry Potter to original 1980s Star Wars toys. QOpen
11:00 - 17:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. A
Stenelux G-9, Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 2, tel.
(+31) 206 62 14 90, stenelux@kpnplanet.nl. One of
Amsterdams most thrilling shops is located on a rather
non-descript, narrow shopping street. Surel y no other shops
in town sell tarantulas, bear paws and lama heads? Tiny Sten-
elux is filled to the brim with minerals and prehistoric fossils
like a 600 million year old jell yfish. Many of the odd items on
sale are also surprisingl y affordable. Q TJL
Tinker Bell F-8, Spiegelgracht 10, tel. (+31) 206 25
88 30, www.tinkerbelltoys.nl. All kinds of interesting
learning toys including safe science experiments for older
children. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00. A
Supermarkets
Albert Heijn F-5, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226, tel.
(+31) 204 21 83 44, www.ah.nl. The largest supermarket
chain in the Netherlands has dozens of locations all over Am-
sterdam. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Also at Jodenbreestraat
21, tel. (+31) 206 24 12 49. Open 08:00 - 22:00; Prins Hen-
drikkade 20, tel. (+31) 206 27 06 01. Open 07:00 - 22:00;
Stadhouderskade 101, tel. (+31) 206 75 28 88. Open 08:00
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00; Westerstraat 79, tel. 206 23 68
52. Open 08:00 - 22:00; and many other locations.
Marqt H-6, Utrechtsestraat 17, tel. (+31) 208 10
00 80, www.marqt.com. This posh supermarket offers
an excellent selection of fresh produce, but remember to
bring your plastic as Marqt doesnt accept cash. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Also at Overtoom 21,
tel. (+31) 204 22 63 11. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00
- 19:00. A
The Albert Cuyp Market in De Pijp Martins Zaprauskis
68
SPORTS & LEISURE
Ballooning
Rob Wiegers Ballonvaart BV Peter van den Breemer-
weg 9, Soest, tel. (+31) 356 03 00 28, nfo@luchtballon-
vaart.com, www.luchtballonvaart.com. This company is
based outside Amsterdam, but - depending on the wind and
weather conditions - it will take you up in the air for a birds
eye view of the Dutch countryside.
Bowling
Knijn Bowling D-6, Scheldplein 3, tel. (+31) 206 64 22
11, www.knijnbowling.nl. A lane will cost you 21 - 28/hour
depending on the day and time or you could come for disco
bowling at the weekend from 23:00 for 11.50. Q AK
Fitness & Gyms
Brightside Fitness Amsterdam C-9, Baarsjesweg
289HS, tel. (+31) 206 83 44 36, www.brightsidefitness.
nl. This gym doesnt require a membership, so you can just
pay as you go.
Sport City H-5, Jodenbreestraat 6, tel. (+31) 206 26
26 22, amsterdamwaterloo@sportcity.nl, www.sportc-
ity.nl. Al though its a members club you can order a day
pass via its website.
Golf
Amsterdam Old Course Zwartelaantje 4, tel. (+31)
206 94 36 50, info@amsterdamoldcourse.nl, www.
amsterdamoldcourse.nl. Start with 9 holes for 35 or the
full 18 for 50. Q AK
Amsterdamse Golf Club Bauduinlaan 35, tel. (+31)
204 97 78 66, agc1934@wxs.nl, www.amsterdamse-
golfclub.nl. This 18-hole golf course offers a popular club
house where you can have breakfast, lunch and dinner or
you can just skip it and hit the links.
Golfbaan Amsterdam Buikslotermeerdijk 141, tel.
(+31) 206 36 10 10, info@golfbaanamsterdam.nl, www.
golfbaanamsterdam.nl. You can play 9 holes for 24 - 31
or 18 holes 39 - 49, but if youd like to save plenty of cash
you can reserve an earl y bird tee time.
Horse riding
De Hollandsche Manege E-9, Vondelstraat 140, tel.
(+31) 206 18 09 42, www.dehollandschemanege.nl. 35
horses and 15 ponies are at your disposal at the Dutch Riding
School, which has been in operation since 1882.
Manege Nieuw Amstelland F-6, Jan Tooropplantsoen
17, Amstelveen, tel. (+31) 206 43 24 68, www.nieuwam-
stelland.nl. Get back in the saddle at this riding school.
Jun
24 18:00
-
24:00
Midsummer Night Cross. Charity
run. Free admission
AB
24
- 26
Royal Dutch Cup Competitions.
Largest international rowing
regatta in the Netherlands. Free
admission
AB
25.06
-
03.07
Champions Trophy Ladies.
International hockey games at
the Wagener Stadium
AB
Aug
28 10:00 Powerboat races. Free
admission
AB
Sep
2 13:30
-
22:00
Sky Radio Run AB
3 Dragon Boat Races 2011. Races
are held for the open class
across 200, 500 and 2000
meters. Free admission
AB
AB - Amsterdamse Bos
Live sports
Karting
Race Planet Amsterdam Herwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206
11 11 20, www.raceplanet.nl. The place to go in Amster-
dam for indoor go-karting. It also offers specials for kids par-
ties. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
Paintball & Laser tag
Paintball Jungle Wethouder van Essenweg, tel. (+31)
206 13 11 29, www.paintballjungle.nl. Shoot your friends
as part of a stag night or come here with your colleagues for a
little team building exercise. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Stadiums
Amsterdam Arena ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203
11 13 33, www.amsterdamarena.nl. This is the home of
Ajax Amsterdam, the local football team.
Olympisch Stadion Amsterdam Olympisch Stadion
21, tel. (+31) 203 05 44 00, www.olympischstadion.nl.
The 1928 Summer Ol ympics were held here.
Swimming pools
Het Marnix D-5, Marnixplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 24 60 00,
www.hetmarnix.nl. Het Marnix boasts two swimming pools,
a spa, a heal th club and a restaurant. Q ABKC
Sportplaza Mercator Jan van Galenstraat 315, tel.
(+31) 206 18 89 11, www.sportfondsen.nl. A huge swim-
ming pool, fitness centre and gym. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. AC
Tennis courts
Sportcentrum Amstelpark Koenenkade 8 (Amster-
damse Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 00, www.amstelpark.
nl. Take your pick of 21 outdoor or 11 indoor tennis courts. A
fitness centre, spa and restaurant are also available. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. ALKD Everyone take five Lya Cattel
69
AJAX: LOVED AND LOATHED BY MANY
If you mention the name Ajax anywhere in the world, everyone
will know what youre talking about. Amsterdams legendary
football club has become a household name in large part due
to its concept of total football.
Yet despite, or perhaps, owing to its success the Dutch
either love or hate Ajax and theres no middle ground.
According to an annual study by Football International
(Hollands biggest football magazine), Ajax boasts the most
supporters of any club in the country, which is estimated
to be around 3.7 million. Ajax also has the biggest stadium
in the Netherlands with a capacity of 52,960 seats and
its supporters club is the largest by far at about 85,000
members. Ajax easily surpasses all other teams with these
impressive statistics, but as we mentioned there are another
13 million people around the country who would rather gouge
their own eyes out then watch the club win another cup.
History
This aversion could very well be the result of the perceived
arrogance that surrounds Ajax. As a rule a capitals club is
less popular in the rest of the country in general and when
no prizes are won by other teams cockiness can breed
resentment.
In the 1970s Ajax wrote a new chapter in the history of
the club building on a successful period that began in the
1930s under the English trainer Jack Reynolds. After arch
rival Feyenoord set an example by seizing the first ever Dutch
European Cup for League Champions, Ajax improved on this
achievement in the next three years.
In 1972 the world cup for teams was added to the
sides already full cabinet of trophies. In these days Ajax
was synonymous with a new concept known as total football.
According to this system the ball is passed around very
quickly and not only the attackers can score. The system was
propped up by Ajaxs number one icon: Johan Cruij ff. He was
named best European footballer in 1971, 1973 and 1974.
However, such is the fate of Dutch football clubs and Ajax
soon lost its best players. Johan Cruij ff left for Barcelona, a
team close to Ajaxs heart.
At the end of the 1980s Ajax had a revival when that
other legendary club hero Marco van Basten helped
the team win the European Cup Winners Cup. After that it
took until the mid-1990s for Ajax to blossom again. Under
the management of top coach Louis van Gaal the concept
of total football was revived yet again. This time the main
players were the Finnish footballer Jari Litmanen and the De
Boer brothers, Frank and Ronald. Ajax played its best match
on 22 November 1995 against Madrid on the Spanish sides
home pitch. The Dutch boys from Amsterdam ran circles
around the Iberian players.
Al though the final score was a modest 0-2, Ajaxs
performance at Bernabu was an impressive show and
the Madri d supporters honoured the Amsterdam si de
with a standing ovation. Even the teams supporters were
complimented with an honour guard on their way home. The
golden years of the 1990s were reinforced by winning the
Champions League and the world cup for teams, again in
1995.
Rivalry
Trainer Louis van Gaals cocky comments didnt lessen
Ajaxs reputation for arrogance. When Ajax won the Dutch
championship yet again, he announced that Ajax was not
only the best team in Amsterdam, but also in the whole of
Holland including big football towns such as Rotterdam and
Eindhoven. The existing rivalry between these cities grew
exponentially. Ajax next built the Amsterdam ArenA on the
edge of town replacing the small but very central De Meer
stadium, but the club became a victim of its own success.
The result was something of an exodus from which Ajax has
only recently recovered. The millions of euros acquired by
floating the club on the stock market were invested in the
wrong players and an exorbitantly expensive organisation.
Basically the Amsterdam club had to start from scratch. But
to its credit, its famous youth academy kept producing some
excellent players, the most recent successes being Wesley
Sneijder and Rafael van der Vaart. But after competing
for seven years without achieving the top spot, Ajax finally
soared to its old heights in 2011 by winning the Dutch title.
Visit Ajax or the stadium
Whether due to the magi c of i ts i l l ustri ous past, the
excitement of the famous arena or just as part of a football
pilgrimage, Ajax still draws tens of thousands of tourists
every year. There are a high number of season ticket holders,
so only a few thousand seats are for sale for each game,
which can be bought via the official Ajax site (www.ajax.nl).
Unfortunately, even when a game has officially sold out,
youll often find lots of empty seats in the stadium as not
all season ticket holders are completely loyal to their team.
The matches, however, are seldom boring in large part
due to Section 410. This part of the stadium is populated
by mostly young fans that are the teams most die-hard
supporters. This is in stark contrast to the official so-called
core support of the F-side, which you can find behind the
goal. Theyve recently been overshadowed by the young
supporters of 410.
Amsterdam ArenA
Anyone whod like to visit the stadium itself can take part
in the World of Ajax walk-in tour. It brings you to the edge of
the pitch, you can have a look from the main stand and enter
the press room. During a one-hour tour the guide will tell
you all about the stadium and the club. Prices: adults 12,
children 10. Departures from main entrance E on the west
side of the stadium. After the tour you can visit the official
fan shop for all of the Ajax merchandise you can possibly
want. Opening hours and tour departure times are subject
to change during and around event days so check www.
amsterdamarena.nl before you go.
Amsterdam Arena Arena boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11
13 33, www.ajax.nl, www.amsterdamarena.nl.
Established: 18 March 1900
Dutch titles: 30 Dutch FA Cup: 18
Dutch Super Cup: 7 Champions League: 4
UEFA Cup: 1 European Super Cup: 3
World Cup: 2
Ajax facts & Figures
Ajax celebrates! Photo courtesy of Ajax Football Club
Amsterdam for kids
Jewish Historical Childrens Museum (Joods His-
torisch Kinder Museum) H-6, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1,
tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.jhmkindermuseum.nl. A
part of the Jewish Historical Museum, this museum on three
floors is designed to teach children about Judaism, but from
a childs perspective. Kids can visit a working kitchen and
learn about the kosher tradition and typical Jewish cuisine
or visit the Hollanders - a fictional Amsterdam Jewish famil y
- to see what their home life is like and how it both differs
from and resembles an average Dutch famil ys day-to-day
life. Another part of the museum is dedicated to traditional
Jewish musical instruments where children can listen to music
and try to compose their own melodies. A variety of films
and workshops are also available. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adul ts 9, children 13 - 17 years 4.50, children
12 and under free.
TunFun Speelpark H-6, Mr. Visserplein 7 (Jewish
Quarter), tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www.tunfun.nl. In
what looks like a disused underground metro station near
the Portuguese Synagogue lies Tun Fun, a childrens paradise.
If you cant find it just follow the steady stream of families,
childrens parties and school excursions into the depth of this
enormous playground that includes slides, climbing labyrinths,
painting workshops, trampolines and other atrractions. The
screams of the children can be a bit overwhelming at times
but internet access and cans of beer at the caf help keep
the cacaphony of pre-pubescant chatter at bay. Adul ts are
onl y admitted with children and onl y have to pay an entrance
fee for their kids. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: kids
7.50, adul ts free. KW
Currency exchange
GWK Travelex F-3, Stationsplein (Central Station), tel.
(+31) 206 27 27 31, www.travelex.com/nl. GWK is the
most convenient currency exchange if youre heading to the
train station. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also
at Dam 23 - 25; Damrak 86; Damrak 1 - 5; Kal verstraat 150;
Leidseplein 31A; and Leidsestraat 103.
DVD rental
Cult Videotheek G-6, Amstel 7, tel. (+31) 206 22 78
43, www.cultvideotheek.nl. As the name suggests, this
is the place to go to buy or rent cul t classics. QOpen 16:00
- 21:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.
Videoland D-7, Bilderdijkstraat 64, tel. (+31) 206 12
05 70, www.videoland.nl. This place offers everything
from Holl ywood blockbusters to art house flicks. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00.
Hairdressers & Barbers
Hair Police J-7, Tweedeoosterparkstraat 36H, tel. (+31)
204 20 58 41, www.hairpolice.nl. The Hair Police spe-
cialise in dreads, extensions and braids as well as cuts and
colouring. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
Kinki Kappers D-3, Haarlemmerdijk 17, tel. (+31)
206 25 60 00, info@kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. Youll feel
like a fashion model at this trendy hair salon. QOpen 09:30
- 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Tommyz Toko Admiraal de Ruijterweg 85, tel. (+31)
206 38 78 72, info@tommyztoko.nl, www.tommyztoko.
nl. Enjoy the art on the walls while you get a trendy haircut
either by the owner Tommy or one of the other talented hair-
dressers. Be prepared to walk out feeling hipper than ever.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
Laundries & Cleaners
Cleaning Service De Haarlemmer A-1, Haarlemmer-
straat 45, tel. (+31) 206 20 27 85. Drop off your clothes
here while you do some shopping. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Kalver Kledingreparatie & Stomerij A-3, Voet-
boogstraat 29-a, tel. (+31) 206 38 78 00. Dry cleaning
services as well as clothing repair. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Mon 13:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Kleding reparatie & Stomerij de Rozengracht D-6,
Rozengracht 216, tel. (+31) 206 27 14 69. You can get
your clothes dry cleaned or get that button reattached to your
favourite pair of pants here. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Laundry & Things A-1, Warmoesstraat 30, tel. (+31)
614 03 28 03. Self-serve washing machines starting at as
low as 3 per load. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
The Clean Brothers Wasserette E-5, Westerstraat
26, tel. (+31) 206 27 98 88. Wash your own clothes here
seven days a week. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
The Wash Company D-3, Haarlemmerdijk 32, tel.
(+31) 206 25 36 72. Dry cleaning as well as washing ma-
chines. Self serve 5.50 per load, full service 7.50. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Wash@Net B-3, Amstel 30, tel. (+31) 204 28 62 35.
Check your e-mail while you wash your clothes.
Wassalon Laundry G-9, Frans Halsstraat 83, tel.
(+31) 643 58 32 09. Wash it yourself or drop it off and itll
be ready in a few hours. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
Libraries
Centrale Bibliotheek H-3, Oosterdokskade 143, tel.
(+31) 205 23 09 00, info@oba.nl, www.oba.nl. This
modern glass building between the Central Station and the
NEMO Science Centre not onl y has an interesting location
but also books in English, internet access and its open late.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Relocation services
Fa P.M de Wit en Zonen Archangelkade 43, tel.
(+31) 206 86 74 40, info@fa-de-wit.nl, www.fa-de-wit.
nl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Moving Company H-7, Prinsengracht 834-B,
tel. (+31) 681 35 13 91, movingcompanyamsterdam@
gmail.com, www.themovingcompany.nl. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Wiggelaar E-6, Laurierstraat 33, tel. (+31) 204 20 50
00, www.wiggelaar.nl. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
70
LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
Things get pretty wild at the Botanical Gardens MZ
72
HEALTH & WELLNESS
Doctors
Expat Medical Centre D-6, Bloemgracht 112, tel.
(+31) 204 27 50 11, expatmc@planet.nl, www.ex-
patmc.net. The English-speaking doctors here offer medical
attention, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they
accept EU heal th cards, too! QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. On Saturdays and Sundays by appointment onl y.
Dentist
Tandartsen aan de Herengracht F-6, Herengracht
318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, info@tadh.nl, www.tadh.
nl. QOpen Mon, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Hospitals
AMC - Academisch Medisch Centrum Universiteit
van Amsterdam Meibergdreef 9, tel. (+31) 205 66
91 11, fax (+31) 205 66 44 40, www.amc.uva.nl. Q
Open 24hrs.
Prinsengracht Clinic G-7, Prinsengracht 769, tel.
(+31) 205 99 41 00, fax (+31) 205 99 43 67, informa-
tie@olvg.nl, www.olvg.nl.
Sint Lucas Andreas Ziekenhuis Jan Tooroptraat 164,
tel. (+31) 205 10 89 11, ziekenhuis@slaz.nl, www.slaz.
nl. Q Open 24hrs.
Massage
China Beauty Massage Center A-2, Paleisstraat
19, tel. (+31) 204 21 21 21, www.chinesemassageam-
sterdam.com. A full body massage, a pedicure or a foot
massage cost 35 for one hour. A 30-minute foot massage,
which includes a head, neck and shoulder massage, costs
20. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also at Kloveniersburgwal 28
(Shanghai Beauty), tel. (+31) 204 20 94 82.
Chinese Massage Centre Bejing A-2, Hasselaer-
steeg 14, tel. (+31) 623 33 52 16. Head, foot, neck
or full body massages for the usual rates. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00.
Photic Medical Center Amsterdam D-8, Kinker-
straat 102 HS, tel. (+31) 206 12 82 77. Different types
of massages or acupuncture can be arranged here from
20. Take tram Nr.17 to the Kinkerstraat stop. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00.
Spas & Beauty
Hammam Amsterdam C-3, Zaanstraat 88, tel. (+31)
206 81 48 18, www.hammamamsterdam.nl. The relax-
ing atmosphere of this single sex Near Eastern-style bath
house can be enjoyed by all, but you must bring your own
scrubbing glove and if you dont have one youre obligated
to buy one for 5. Facilities include a sauna, Turkish steam
bath, chill out areas, beauty treatments, massage, solarium
and a caf. Q For women open Tues - Fri 12:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, for men open Mon 12:00 - 22:00.
- 5 years 8, boys under 4 are allowed to enter on womens
days with their mothers.
Sauna Deco E-5, Herengracht 115, tel. (+31) 206 23
82 15, www.saunadeco.nl. The beautiful interior of this
mixed sex Art Deco sauna was rescued from demolition and
lovingly restored. Facilities include sauna, Turkish steam bath,
chill out areas, beauty treatments, massage, solarium, fitness
centre, caf and an outside relaxation area. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Tue 15:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 10:00. Admission:
21. AK
Sauna Fenomeen Eerste Schinkelstraat 14 -16, tel.
(+31) 206 71 67 80, info@saunafenomeen.nl, www.
saunafenomeen.nl. Sauna Fenomeen is a unique sauna.
I t was squatted in 1984, given legal status by the city in
1989 and is still run mostl y by enthusiastic volunteers. Its a
sauna with an al ternative atmosphere, so you can expect
non-alcoholic beverages and organic fare. Its a naturist sauna
meaning the wearing of swimwear or undergarments of any
kind is not appreciated. Facilities include dry sauna, Turkish
steam bath, Jacuzzi, outside space, chillout space, massage,
sunbeds, a bar, chess and a library. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
Monday women only. Tues - Sun mixed sex. Admission: 13:00
- 17:00 for 8, 17:00 - 23:00 for 9, and 22:00 - 23:00 for
4. BKD
Pharmacies
DA Apotheek Leidsestraat F-7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76,
tel. (+31) 204 22 02 10, apotheekleidsestraat@ezorg.
nl, www.da-apotheekleidsestraat.apotheek.org. The
pharmacy can be reached during the day via the entrance
of the DA-drugstore at the Leidsestraat around the corner.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:50. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dam Apotheek A-2, Damstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24
43 31, damapotheek@ezorg.nl, www.dam-apotheek.nl.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
Tattoos & Piercing
Dermadonna Custom Tattoos B-2, Kloveniersburg-
wal 34, tel. (+31) 207 73 66 14/(+31) 611 28 47 39,
www.dermadonna.nl. Get a tattoo from real exper ts.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Hanky Panky Tattooing B-2, Oudezijdsvoorburgwal
141, tel. (+31) 206 27 48 48, www.hankypankytattoo.
nl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Tattoo Palace B-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 91, tel. (+31)
206 38 44 48, www.tattoopalace.com. The tattoo artists
have been at it here since 1989. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 19:00.
Vets & Pets
Dierenkliniek De Jordaan D-4, 2e Goudsbloemd-
warsstraat 19, tel. (+31) 204 23 61 04, www.dieren-
kliniekdejordaan.nl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.
Medisch Centrum voor Dieren (Emergency and
specialist clinic) B-2, Isolatorweg 45, tel. (+31) 207
40 06 00, fax (+31) 207 40 06 09, http://mcvoordieren.
nl. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 00 - 00-24;00.
Typical Amsterdam cityscape Martins Zaprauskis
The best places to eat, drink, see, sleep
and experience could be metres away.
The In Your Pocket app. Europes best
city guides. Now with added GPS.
Out now.
74
AMSTERDAM-NOORD
Amsterdam-Noord In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com
For centuries the north section of the city was an area that
most Amsterdammers werent too keen on. It seems that
everything unwanted was dumped here, from the gallows
in medieval times to the polluting ship building industry
much later. Extensive social housing projects attracted large
numbers of financiall y challenged people exacerbating the
stigma that was already attached to Amsterdams largest
administrative district. Today Noord, or simpl y North, is one
of the most vibrant areas of the Dutch capital. More and
more people have begun to appreciate the unique merits of
this territory beyond the River IJ. With this in mind weve put
together a small guide to this interesting urban and rural zone
thats usuall y overlooked by most tourists. All you need to do
is to take one of the free ferries behind the Central Station
and 10 minutes later youll be able to explore Noord and its
surroundings. Take a small river cruise on a boat that offers an
all-you-can-eat pancake buffet, do some cycling in the pristine
countryside, bring a towel and swim trunks and take a dip at
one of the areas swimming pools or visit a festival and see
why Noord has become the sizzling new hub of Amsterdams
creative community.
Accommodation
From botels and cosy B&Bs to camping and luxury hotels,
the north side of the River IJ has plenty to offer in the way
of accommodation.
Amstel Botel M-2, NDSM-Pier 3, tel. (+31) 206 26 42
47, info@amstelbotel.nl, www.amstelbotel.nl. This ship
is safel y moored at the NDSM pier. In the past this colossus
was a riverboat and most guests spent their time on deck.
If you simpl y need somewhere to crash after a night on the
town and youre looking for free parking, this is the place.
Small cabins with thin walls and claustrophobic bathrooms
come standard at this botel. The lack of luxury and privacy
may not be to everyones liking, but if you need relativel y
cheap accommodation and you dont mind living on the water,
book a room at the back where you have a great view of the
River IJ. Unfortunatel y most other rooms face a grey wall. Q
PTALGBKXW
B&B De Gekroonde Zwaan M-3, Nieuwendam-
merdijk 221, tel. (+31) 652 37 76 50, info@degek-
roondezwaan.nl, www.degekroondezwaan.nl. Estab-
lished in 1902, the Crowned Swan is a great fi ve-star B&B
option in Amsterdam. This stylish apartment consists of
two adjoining rooms that place an emphasis on interior
design and luxury. Equipped wi th all of the modern conve-
niences one would expect, i t has the undisputed bonus
of a two-person whirlpool and a massage shower. The
location on Amsterdams most attracti ve bi cycl e route
is also nothing to sneeze at and two bikes are available
free of charge. Unfortunatel y, the fridge stocked wi th good
quali ty wine will cost you extra. Q 1 apartment (double
145). TLGBXW
B&B De Noorderling Stoombootweg 100, tel. (+31)
206 22 16 70, www.denoorderling.nl. For short stays
this cosy garden home located in a quiet residential area
of Noord is a good option, but we have to warn you that the
rooms are a little cramped. The beds are comfortable and it
has its own dining area and a private terrace, but the toilet
and shower are shared. The full y equipped kitchen is also
at your disposal should you want to cook dinner, but save
some space for the abundant breakfast in the morning as
the owner is a professional chef and he goes out of his way
to please you with his culinary know how. Q (single 50,
double 65). TLGBW
B&B De Oude Taveerne N-5, Durgerdammerdijk 73,
tel. (+31) 204 90 42 59, www.deoudetaveerne.nl. De
Oude Taveerne exudes nostalgia. Most of the seventeen
rooms have been furnished stylishl y, but onl y a few have the
picture perfect view of the IJsselmeer. All rooms have been
equipped with modern amenities, al though the bathrooms
are quite small and the steep stairs leading to the rooms are
not easily accessible for everyone. The restaurant is rustically
decorated and includes an eye-catching 100-year-old beer tap
and beautiful murals. In short, the past is brought to life in
this distinctive building dating from 1760, but unfortunatel y
the prices are far from affordable and the lacklustre service
on the brilliant terrace is outdated and the drinks and meals
are expensive. Q 17 rooms (16 doubles and 1 famil y from
119). TAGBKXW
B&B Het Oude Dijkhuis N-3, Nieuwendammerdijk
443, tel. (+31) 204 94 18 42, info@hetoudedijkhuis.nl,
www.hetoudedijkhuis.nl. Located on one of Amsterdams
most attractive cycling routes, this spacious apartment can
accommodate up to four people. The furnishings are not
exactl y modern or cosy and could best be described as old
fashioned and boring. On the other hand, the friendl y owners
and the more than reasonable prices make up for the lack of
dcor. The Old Dike House even has a private entrance and a
full sized kitchen. It also rents bikes, but you cant take them
to the centre of Amsterdam because of the risk of theft. Q 1
apartment (1 person 70, 4 persons 130). TLGB
B&B Kwint L-2, Kometensingel 187, tel. (+31) 206 31
49 30, www.bbkwint.nl. For 10 years now owner Lia has
run this colourful B&B in an historic doctors surgery that has
been transformed into accommodation with a wide variety of
different artistic styles. The specially designed rooms havent
escaped this charming womans passion for collecting either.
The rural atmosphere, the friendl y host, the extensive break-
fast and the magnificent garden make a lasting impression on
every one of its guests. Kwint is a place youll remember for
a long time and will return to one day, if onl y in your thoughts.
Q 3 rooms (violet room 50, blue bridal room 90, studio
100). TLGBX
Bed & Brek in de Van der Pek Anemoonstraat 27, tel.
(+31) 65 19 20 2 37, www.opzoeknaarhetnoordgevoel.
nl. Amsterdam Noord enjoys a special place in the citys long
history. For decades this was the domain of hardworking la-
bourers, but Van der Pek is no longer the low cost residential
housing estate it once was. Today its a tribute to the houses
of the past, but with a modern twist. Four houses have been
renovated and converted into accommodation with a unique
theme. The concept is to make you feel like a proper north
Amsterdammer when you spend the night in either the Nature
House, the House of Cul ture, the Looking-for-the-Northern-
Feeling House and the Stars House. Each house is a cul tural
highlight in its own right. Artists, writers and musicians have
been allowed to release their creativity into these places,
leading to more than a few surprises for its guests like the
shape of stacked coffee tables, musical rooms and even some
bizarre looking insects. Q 4 apartments (75 for 2 persons
during the week, 80 on weekends).
Amstel Botel Amsterdam-Noord
76
AMSTERDAM-NOORD: ACCOMMODATION
Camping Vliegenbos N-3, Meeuwenlaan 138, tel.
(+31) 206 36 88 55, www.vliegenbos.com. If youre tired
of steep prices for accommodation in the city centre, we sug-
gest you take a 10-minute bus ride to Vliegenbos, a 62-acre
forest across the water from the Central Station. You can
pitch a tent, park your camper or rent one of its cabins for a
reasonable price during the spring and summer months. A gift
shop, restaurant, laundry and other services are also avail-
able. During the day take bus No.32 or 33 (06:00 - 24:00) or
bus No.361 at night (24:00 - 06:00) from the Central Station
to Vliegenbos. The campsite is onl y 200m from the bus stop.
Q 30 cabins (4-person cabin 71 -74; tents 2 - 5; camper
sites 23 - 25). Open April - September. ALK
Hotel De Zwaan M-5, Dorpsweg 70, Ransdorp, tel.
(+31) 204 90 44 81. People from the province of North Hol-
land are known to be innately down-to-earth and this provincial
quality is also a dominant factor at The Swan hotel and pub.
The mischievous owner of this picturesque, age-old establish-
ment seems to pay more attention to the billiards players in
the downstairs pub than her hotel guests upstairs and the
eight rooms available have been furnished in a basic manner
with little embellishment. The two single beds and the wash
basin are functional and theres a communal shower and toilet
in the hall. However, the tiny terrace in the back is a peaceful
oasis in this tiny village that seems to have been cut off from
the outside world for decades. But then again, its exactly this
basic simplicity that draws visitors to Ransdorp. Q 8 rooms
(32.50/person including breakfast). LGBX
NH Galaxy Amsterdam M-2, Amsterdam Distelkade
21, tel. (+31) 206 34 43 66, www.nh-hotels.com. The
recentl y renovated NH Galaxy Hotel is true to i ts name,
because the worlds at your feet in this four-star hotel. The
breakfast buffet is well stocked and the spacious rooms
not onl y have cutting-edge interior design, but are also
fi tted wi th king-sized beds and luxurious bathrooms. The
friendl y staff and i ts pri vate parking also add extra value
to this design hotel and thanks to the shuttle bus, which
is free of charge, the centre of Amsterdam is onl y a short
ride away. If you dont like the idea of going too far from the
hotel at night, theres actuall y plenty on offer in the way of
recreation and restaurants in the direct vicinity of the hotel.
Q PTHAUFLGBKXW
Uilenstekkie M-4, Termietergouw 1, Zunderdorp, tel.
(+31) 624 22 61 06, www.uilenstekkie.nl. At the back of
this historic farm youll find a field, which is usuall y filled with
cows, where you can pitch your tent or park your caravan.
There is no entertainment to speak of at t Uilenstekkie or
luxurious facilities, but you will find an authentic campsite with
the basic necessities such as a place to cook, a toilet and a
shower. If thats all you need, look no further. Children gener-
all y love the place because the farm and its surroundings
could almost pass for a zoo. It also rents bikes. Q (3.50
- 5/campsite). TILBW
Over the years many districts in Amsterdam have
been home to Ajax, the Dutch capitals football
giant. Most diehard fans believe that De Meer,
which has now been demolished, was the best
location. On the other hand, the current stadium
- the Amsterdam Arena - has become a virtual
Mecca for football enthusiasts. That said, few
people realise that Amsterdam-North is the true
cradle of this world famous club.
Footh-Ball Club Ajax - with its original spelling
mistake - was forced to leave its playing field at
the end of the Overtoom Road in 1900, because
the pitch was to become a new neighbourhood of
residential homes. The club decided to change its
name (dropping the spelling mistake) into Football
Club Ajax and rented a pitch on the Middenweg
- now called the Hagedoornweg - on an empty
polder in Buiksloterham in Amsterdam-North.
Amsterdam North became the home turf of
Ajax, which was still relatively unknown in the early
20th century. Many supporters still regard the first
pitch in North, located at what is currently called
the Hagedoornweg, the place where it all started.
All home games were played on this simple field.
Later Ajax moved to another pitch in North. With
this location came creature comforts like chang-
ing rooms for the players in what could best be
described as a vacant shed. Unfortunately, the
location wasnt the best as the players had to
walk at least 15 minutes from the ferry landing
to the ground.
In 1901 Ajax moved again, but this time to
the Laanweg, which was much closer to the ferry.
Unfortunately it had no changing shed, so the boys
had to rough it again. Many supporters loved the
adventure of taking the ferry to the home games,
as North was considered to be out in the sticks.
But once again Ajax left for greener pitches in
1907, due to the building of a new housing estate,
which marked the end of Ajaxs adolescence in
North. AFC Ajax later reached their full potential
at De Meer and the Amsterdam Arena.
Birthplace of Ajax
Sheep at Ransdorp Amsterdam-Noord
77
AMSTERDAM-NOORD: FOOD & DRINK
Restaurants
From trendy, ultra-modern culinary institutions located in
renovated industrial spaces to an all-you-can-eat pancake
buffet on a boat, Amsterdam-Noord certainly doesnt lack
interesting places to eat and drink.
Chefs Table N-2, Asterweg 14, tel. (+31) 203 34 06
72, www.chefs-table.nl. Al though not the cheapest place
to have a meal in Amsterdam-Noord, in our humble opinion
this restaurant is definitel y a contender for a Michelin star. In
this trendy, yet warm environment youll be spoiled by culinary
masterpieces with a refined French twist, ranging from the
cold lobster soup to fried scallops. Dont be deterred, or put
off, by the rather chill y industrial surroundings. Chefs Table is
an absolute hit within the Amsterdam restaurant scene. And
al though youll probabl y leave a tidy sum of money here, at
least the parking is free, a pleasant break from the astronomi-
cal prices youre forced to pay in the city centre. Q (1 course
25, 3 courses 40). PTHALGBKXW
De IJ-Keuken N-2, Koperslagerij 51, tel. (+31) 206 71
17 28, www.ij-keuken.nl. In the Third World its not unusual
to have dinner at someones house for relativel y little money.
Although this is a way for the people of those nations to make
ends meet, in Holland people do it because its trendy, yet
practical and a good way for locals to show off their love of
food without opening an expensive restaurant. One such Am-
sterdam home chef is Tinda. In a pleasant terraced house in
Noord you can choose from Mediterranean, Far Eastern, North
African or Dutch cuisine. Its not particularl y cheap, however,
as a four-course dinner will set you back about 45, but its
definitel y something different. Q (45). TLGK
De Pannekoekenboot M-2, Ms. van Riemsdijkweg, tel.
(+31) 206 36 88 17, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. The
Pancake Boat cant be compared in any way to the traditional
tour boats that roam the busy Amsterdam canals. Even its
route is completel y different from those of its competitors.
This floating double-decker doesnt follow the usual ring of ca-
nals, but takes you past all of the architectural masterpieces
of Amsterdam North instead. But most of the people on board
probabl y couldnt care less where the boats headed as their
focus is on the enormous servings of pancakes on offer. The
main draw of this floating food factory is the all-you-can-eat
pancake meal. Bon voyage and bon apptit! Q Tours begin
at 13:30, 16:30 and 18:00 and cost as low as 10 depending
on the tour. Closed Mon, Tue. TALGBK
De Pont (The Ferry) N-2, Buiksloterweg 3 - 5, tel. (+31)
206 36 33 88, www.cafedepont.nl.The large terrace and
the great view of the IJ ensure that this organic eatery draws
large crowds. The undisputed smash hit of the overpriced
menu are the home-smoked oysters which are even better
with a dark Struis beer. Al though the words value-for-money
wont cross our lips anytime soon when speaking of De Pont,
there are few better outdoor terraces in Amsterdam-Noord
to enjoy a cold beer. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 22:00. (20). PTA6LGBKXW
De Proeverij N-4, Schellingwouderdijk 339. You can buy
fresh organic bread, creamy cheese, tender meat, fresh fish
and seasonal vegetables at the market or, if these ingredients
make your mouth water but you dont feel like cooking, you
could have a meal at De Proeverij thats located in the same
building. There are four dail y specials that change depending
on whats fresh and in stock, but the set menu also offers
plenty of tasty choices. The servings are quite large and a
BBQ is available on Sundays. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (5
- 12). TALGBKX
Het Schoolhuis M-5, Dorpsstraat 38, Holysloot, tel.
(+31) 204 90 44 14, info@schoolhuisholysloot.nl, www.
schoolhuisholysloot.nl. Yes, places that immediately make
you feel at home and which are as comfortable as a hot bath
still do exist. For the past few years this historic school building
from 1875 has housed a hidden gem. While many Amsterdam
restaurants resemble an assembl y line, the Schoolhouse
exercises old fashioned values like a love of cooking and a
mandatory pampering of i ts customers. Consumers who
prefer trends over quality, might want to give this excellent
establishment a pass, but if you enjoy reall y good food then
by all means give it a shot. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Wed 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (20). TA6LGBKX
Het Tolhuis N-2, Buiksloterweg 7, tel. (+31) 206 36
02 70, www.tolhuis.nl. By the time you enter this historic
building, youll have basicall y already had a mini holiday. Right
across from the entrance youll see a tangle of foreign tourist
groups obedientl y following their travel guides and hundreds
of commuters rushing to the ferry on foot or by bike. The cosy
furnishings and the location of Het Tolhuis are excellent, but
the prices are too steep and the portions too small. That said,
the fried lemon sole is better than the one youll get at many
specialised seafood restaurants. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. (20 - 25). TALGBKX
Hotel de Goudfazant L-2, Aambeeldstraat 10 H, tel.
(+31) 206 36 51 70, www.hoteldegoudfazant.nl. The
Golden Pheasant Hotel raises questions wi th many of i ts
visitors. First of all, despite the misleading name, you cant
actuall y stay the night here. Secondl y, enormous industrial
spaces with bare interiors like to pretend that theyre cool and
trendy, but you could just as easil y call them cheap. On the
other hand, because its so incredibl y big you probabl y wont
hear any whining children. Thirdl y, you have to be a seasoned
restaurant critic to be able to decipher the menu without the
aid of a culinary dictionary or Rosetta Stone. However, when
the food is finall y served by the friendl y staff, its superb.
The hemelse modder (heavenl y mud) dessert in particular
is worth an extra half hour spent on the treadmill. QOpen
18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (18). TAULKX
IJ Kantine M-5, Mt. Ondinaweg 15 - 17, tel. (+31) 206
33 71 62, info@ijkantine.nl, www.ijkantine.nl. You can
enjoy the overwhelming view of the boats on the ever-busy
River IJ through the immense windows of this industrial build-
ing, which has an excellent location, especiall y in summer.
Inside youre plunged into a warm mix of nostalgic industrial
elements, poetic announcements on the wall, one of the best
stocked bars in Amsterdam and the latest design architecture
which is so colourful it almost hurts the eyes. As far as food
is concerned, there are better restaurants around, but this
trendy and sophisticated location shouldnt be overlooked for
a romantic night out or an evening cocktail. QOpen 09:00
- 22:00. (15 - 20). PTA6ULGBX
Caf Noorderlicht Amsterdam-Noord
78
Pollux eten & drinken M-2, NDSM-Pier 6, tel. (+31) 204
92 28 48, www.pollux-amsterdam.nl. For centuries Holland
has been a seafaring nation and if youd like to see some of this
proud tradition up close youll find several ships moored at the
NDSM Pier in the heart of Noord. The Pollux, a former training
ship built in 1940, is the most attractive of the bunch. These
days this historic three-mast tall ship doesnt serve simple
seamens fare, but sophisticated French and Spanish seafood.
The interior, however, is definitely authentic, complemented by
three beautiful outdoor decks and comfortable lounge chairs.
The affluent commanders base in particular, with its leather
chairs and private bar, is a great option for a splurge. Drunks
wont be thrown overboard, as in the past, but can sleep it off
in the Botel (boat-hotel) next door. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Closed Mon. PTALGBKXW
Puspita N-3, Purmerplein 5, tel. (+31) 206 36 82 15.
Virtuall y every Indonesian restaurant in Holland is stuffed full
of wooden carvings, authentic wajang dolls and pictures of
rice fields. Fortunatel y Puspita is one of the rare exceptions.
On the other hand, the interior puts one in mind of a bourgeois
Dutch pub with old fashioned chairs and horrible lace curtains.
As far as food goes, however, this small restaurant gets top
marks and the rice table is brilliant and better than what
passes for traditional Indonesian cuisine in the centre of town.
You do need to go through a bit more effort to walk across
the red carpet, but the ever enthusiastic staff will see you off
when you leave. We recommend the bakso ikan fish soup.
QOpen 16:00 - 22:00. (8 - 15). TLGKS
Stork N-3, Gedempt Hamerkanaal t/o 96, tel. (+31)
206 34 40 00, www.restaurantstork.nl. Even though
Amsterdams largest seafood restaurant opened as recently
as 2011, Stork already enjoys quite a large and loyal following.
Classic dishes like oysters, swordfish, sea bass, lobster and
all kinds of other delicacies from the aquatic world are given
a new dimension here and the industrial furnishings add to
its potential. The lighting from the large windows is beautiful
and almost artistic and the massive outdoor terrace is super
trendy. Unfortunatel y, at times the waiters seem to get lost
in this enormous space, which may mean that your delicious
oven-baked dish might have to be sent back to the open-plan
kitchen for a re-heat. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon.
(19 - 23). TA6LGBXW
Wilhelmina-Dok N-2, Noordwal 1, tel. (+31) 206 32 37
01, www.wilhelmina-dok.nl. If youd like to admire one of
the most beautiful views of Amsterdam by night, you should
reserve a table next to the large windows of this restaurant
that looks like someones living room. That said, the wide
terrace is also an ideal spot to have a cocktail or a cool white
beer (the Secret of the Smi t) wi th some snacks or small
dishes like roasted pumpkin and outstanding goats cheese.
Sadly, the main courses arent as good as the appetisers, but
did we mention that Wilhelmina-Dok has incredible views?
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (16 - 18). TAULBKW
Il Pecorino M-5, Van der Pekstraat 40h, tel. (+31)
612 96 28 61, mick@ilpecorino.nl, www.ilpecorino.nl.
From the outside Trattoria Il Pecorino doesnt look like much,
but once youve entered this corner building youll feel i ts
authentic Italian aura. The painted olive tree in the hall way
transports you to the Mediterranean in a flash and one look
in the display case full of fennel salami, grilled vegetables
and Sardinian goats cheese will make you sali vate. Wi th
onl y fi ve tables i ts rather small, but that wont stop you
from enjoying it. The pizzas from the wood burning oven are
especiall y good. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
Kom-Eet L-2, Kometensingel 184, tel. (+31) 204 92
21 32, www.kom-eet.nl. At first glance this place may
seem a bit outdated, mainl y due to the unsuitable lighting
decorations, but Kom-Eet is actuall y a great restaurant
where youll have no problem finding something delicious
and appealing to eat. The food that the friendl y staff serves
is simpl y delicious, and affordable, but dont expect compli-
cated dishes or imaginative presentation in this authentic
establishment that caters to the surrounding working-class
neighbourhood. We recommend the mahi-mahi, but bear
in mind that strict vegetarians wont find much to nibble on
here. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (15 - 19).
TALGBKXW
Noorderlicht M-2, t.t. Neveritaweg 33, tel. (+31) 204
92 27 70, info@noorderlichtcafe.nl, www.noorderlich-
tcafe.nl. Noorderlicht, or Northern Lights, is one of those
places where there seems to be no middle ground: you either
love it or hate it. Some people would strongl y recommend
the food in this artistic, glass building with al ternative looking
staff and an all but common menu. Others are not impressed
by a restaurant in a glorified greenhouse with a somewhat
bizarre menu and staff that have a casual relationship with
their profession on a messy and draughty industrial si te.
Whatever your opinion may be, no one disputes that the
terrace with a view over the IJ river and free parking right in
front of the entrance are tremendous advantages. And if you
do decide to have a meal here, the oriental salad or stuffed
wraps are both safe options. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed
Mon. (13 - 16). TA6ILEGBKX
Osaka M-3, Rode Kruisstraat 22A, tel. (+31) 206 32
23 80, www.osaka-amsterdam.com. Osakas onl y pos-
sible drawback is i ts location. I f this Japanese restaurant
were housed in a building in the centre of Amsterdam i t
would be overwhelmed wi th truckloads of tourists. The
sushi is extraordinaril y delicious and all of i ts ingredients are
fresh and not prepared in advance. The food is served by
professional and unfailingl y friendl y staff and the restaurant
is decorated in a much more tasteful manner than most
comparable Asian establishments. The seating area at
the back is defini tel y our favori te. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
TALGKXS
Place du Nord N-3, Purmerplein 8, tel. (+31) 206 36 01
54, info@placedunord.nl, www.placedunord.nl. For over
35 years Place du Nord has been a renowned restaurant that
ignores the latest trends and fashions in favour of unpreten-
tious traditional fish and meat dishes. Vegetarians, however,
need not make the trip to Noord. The staff manages to create
a homey and informal atmosphere, despite the somewhat
bizarre furnishings consisting of flying witches, extinct dodos,
love-sick chickens and rusty pans. Despite these rather weird
surroundings youll be able to enjoy our favourite item on the
menu: homemade prawn croquettes with wasabi mayonnaise.
QOpen 17:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. Closed
Mon. (19 - 25). PALGBKX
Wilhelminadok Amsterdam-Noord
79
Cafs
If youre looking for a delicious espresso with a view of
central Amsterdam across the river or an historic caf
thats been in operation for generations, Amsterdam-
Noord has it covered.
Al Ponte N-2, Pontplein1, tel. (+31) 642 08 74 82, info@
alponte.nl, www.alponte.nl. Waiting around is one of the
things the Dutch dislike most. At Caf Al Ponte, however, you
can wait for a ferry with a delicious espresso or an Italian
sandwich. This is the achievement of its Italian owner Syl via,
who has brought the coffee culture of her home country to this
ferry landing at IJplein. Children can enjoy a look-a-like cappuc-
cino (kids coffee: hot chocolate with foamed milk) while their
parents and all other fans of the sweet-smelling brown liquid
can enjoy proper Italian coffee. Grandmas lemon cake makes
the free boat trip across the IJ worthwhile, so just sit down
on a bench and enjoy the hustle and bustle around you with a
prosciutto and provolone lunch. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (2 - 5). T6ULNBX
Cafe t Sluisje M-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 297, tel.
(+31) 206 36 17 12, www.hetsluisje.nl. This remark-
able building is located in one of the most scenic areas of
Amsterdam-Noord. At an intersection of age-old water routes
that farmers once used to bring their milk to the centre of
town by boat, passers-by can now enjoy a cup of coffee or a
glass of Nobel tje, a liqueur from the island of Ameland. Un-
fortunately, there arent many sailors left in this historical part
of Amsterdam, but apart from that this famil y-run business
is authentic and nostalgic. The menu on the other hand is
completel y contemporary with chic dishes like warm goats
cheese salad and smoked salmon wi th capers. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon. (5 - 8). TGB
Het Zonnehuis L-2, Zonneplein 30, tel. (+31) 206 31
51 52, info@hetzonnehuis.com, www.hetzonnehuis.
com. Lunchroom Zonnehuis is housed in an important edifice
that is inextricabl y linked to the history of Amsterdam North.
These peculiar premises were buil t in 1932 as a socialist
community building in Amsterdam School style and are worth
a visit just to take a peek at the facade. The building, with its
minimalistic furnishings, offers plenty of authentic features,
but if youre more into cuisine than architecture, the home-
made apple pie wont disappoint and the high tea, which is
served on the massive balcony, is irresistible. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. (3 - 6). TLNGBKXW
Kees Gutter M-3, Purmerplein 15 - 17, tel. (+31) 206
36 92 78. This simple bakery attracts plenty of customers
with its aroma of homemade biscuits and the oven which
is al ways full of bread rolls. Its speciality is the wholegrain
Waterlands bread and the drabby bread drink is an excellent
thirst quencher. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. TGS
Koffiehuis De Klaproos (The Poppy) N-4, Klaprozen-
weg 60, tel. (+31) 206 37 65 12. For over 50 years the De
Klaproos coffee house has been serving food and drinks on
the Klaprozenweg, one of the busiest roads in Amsterdam-
Noord. But for the past few years this nostalgic living room-
like pub, which you might expect to find in the middle of the
Jordaan instead of next to a public racetrack, has been run by
Anita and Nancy. The kitschy lights, bottles of Heineken and
particularl y the loudspeakers that blast out the latest Dutch
hits, create a fun local atmosphere typical of Amsterdam. Try
the homemade meatball sandwich. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 6LBX
Le Perron N-4, Schellingwouderdijk 339, www.leperron.
nl. As you enter Landmarkt, a large regional supermarket,
youre met by the delicous aromas emanating from Le Perron.
The people who run this place have an old fashioned love for
quality products and its particularly well-known for its bakers
vans and wood burning ovens often seen at events and fes-
tivals. A few tables have been set up outside so you can take
your time and enjoy a warm sandwich
or fresh brewed coffee in the sun, but
first pick your favourite exotic beans
from the bins. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. TLS
Ons Verlangen M-4, Broeker-
gouw 5, tel. (+31) 623 94 90 17,
www.zorgboerderijamsterdam.
com. Ons Verlangen (Our Desire)
is a restful oasis far from the noise
and traffic of the city. Theres a small
army of animals at the farm which
could almost ri val the collection of
fauna at the Artis Zoo, but thanks to the cows most Amster-
dammers come here to buy fresh milk or something even
tastier. This farm, which is spread out over 125 hectares, also
makes delicious organic ice cream! Enjoy the entire selection
of flavours in the spacious garden. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. TLBS
Waargenoegen M-2, Papaverweg 46, tel. (+31) 207
85 14 06, www.waargenoegen.nl. These days looking at
furniture is an experience. At Waargenoegen, you can ponder
possible interior design purchases while enjoying beautifull y
prepared snacks and small dishes. Just dont drool on the
exceptionall y charming couches and end tables as the high
prices are also quite exceptional. The fare is also far from
ordinary. Owner Thais remains true to her Medi terranean
roots and serves delicious soups, toasties and a fresh dail y
special. While the Cousin Louis & Van Dijk & Co showrooms
feed your eyes, Waargenoegen takes care of your taste
buds. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
(3 - 7). TLKS
Pubs
Nothing can beat central Amsterdam for nightlife, but if
youre looking for a laid back local pub devoid of tourists,
Noord might be the place for you.
Caf IJ-Zicht N-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 413, tel. (+31)
206 36 33 96. Anyone looking for that typical Amsterdam
feel (whatever that may be) should try this nostalgic little
pub on a quiet street full of idyllic, old dike houses. Youll be
welcome at the regulars table and at the bar, but definitel y
not in the corner where the local booze hounds have staked
out their own territory. Bars in Amsterdam dont get any more
authentic than this one. The rugs on the table and the sharp-
witted, yet friendly publican with his thick Amsterdam accent,
will take you back to the days when hospitality and honest
service were more important than a trendy look and a smooth
marketing campaign. If you need the toilet, youll have to go
outdoors. Authentic indeed! QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. T6UGBKX
Cafe Ot en Sien N-2, Buiksloterweg 27, tel. (+31) 206
36 82 33, info@otensien.nl, www.otensien.nl. Entire
generations of Amsterdammers have grown up here at one
of the Noords oldest and most famous pubs. But even if the
crowds have thinned out over the years, its friendl y owner is
al ways up for a chat and will keep you occupied with plenty
of brews on draught or in bottles.
Cafe t Sluisje
Amsterdam-Noord
80
AMSTERDAM-NOORD: SIGHTS
Fancy a day spent picnicking in a park or wandering
around a sculpture garden? Curious why Amsterdam-
Noord has a monument to Atatrk and only one official
museum? Read on.
Amsterdam North Museum (Museum De Noord)
N-3, Zamenhofstraat 28a, tel. (+31) 630 97 56 02,
hjcras@gmail.com, www.museumamsterdamnoord.nl.
There are more than 40 museums in Amsterdam, yet theres
onl y one in Noord. Even though the history of Amsterdam
North stretches back much farther than that of the settlement
on the other side of the River IJ, Amsterdams largest district
didnt get its own museum until 2009. Located in the former
public baths of the Bird Village, one of the characteristic
garden cities of Noord, the museum tells the interesting story
of this part of the capital of the Netherlands. The museum
is defini tel y worth a visi t, especiall y since so many other
big museums in town are currentl y under construction. The
admission fee is also pleasantl y affordable. Paintings, sculp-
ture, photographs, models and changing exhibitions paint an
accurate picture of this livel y part of town. Maps for guided or
independent walking and cycling tours that are available at
the museum will help you explore the interesting and beautiful
attractions of North and its surrounding wetlands. QOpen
Fri 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu. Admission: 3. TLG
Atatrk Monument M-2, Ataturk. Turkish guest workers
have played an important role in the economic rebuilding of
the Dutch nation which began in the 1960s. They moved to
the Netherlands in droves to do the work that most Dutch
people didnt want to do. During the first few years of the
programme many lived here in a residential area dotted with
white wooden houses where an abstract monument to Kemal
Atatrk (Father of Turks), founder of modern day Turkey and
first president of the Turkish Republic, was erected in 1978.
A copper plaque is inscribed with the following text in Dutch
and Turkish: Peace at home, peace in the world.
De Fluitende Faun M-3, Schermerstraat. The famous
sculptor Hildo Krop is responsible for many of the works on
bridges and buildings in Amsterdam. Krop also created the
whistling faun - a Roman god - on a wall of the Purmerschool.
The enigmatic statue also boasts depictions of George on
horseback and the snakes head on the fence. The son of
a baker, Krop first learned how to sculpt and create models
by making marzipan figures, but later studied art in Berlin and
the State Academy for Visual Arts in Amsterdam.
Noorderpark M-2/3, Wingerdweg, www.noorderpark.
nl. For decades the heart of Amsterdam North was a messy
combination of two parks (the Florapark and Volewijkspark),
a canal and a busy through road. A few years ago the ad-
ministration decided to drasticall y change the area to give
Amsterdams northernmost region a fresh, modern look. The
two parks were harmoniously merged to create a green oasis
nearl y the size of the Vondelpark in the Museum district (45
hectares). A large stage for events, concerts and festivals is
also scheduled to open in the middle of the park in the near
future, but right now its already an excellent place to kick
back and relax. The landscape of trees and fields is perfect
for picnics and plans for walking and biking routes are also
in the works.
Sculpture Garden N-3, Nieuwendammerkade 26d. One
of our favorite hidden gems of Noord is the public sculpture
garden at this beautiful spot near the IJ. Gallery owner and
photographer Nico Koster has displayed an intriguing series of
statues here. This unique collection of contemporary art also
includes a colourful chicken by CoBrA artist Corneille.
The Button (De Knoop) M-2, Grasweg. The Button is
one of the most celebrated works by deceased artist Andr
Volten (2002). Inspired by the industrial environment of Noord,
the ex-welder specialised in creating large brass and stainless
steel objects. Whenever he had the time he would experiment
with materials he found in the former shipyard. Al though this
steel giant seems to be a simple piece of art, a closer look
will reveal a work full of depth.
Churches
Some churches still actively serve the faithful, while others
have become exhibition halls and tourist attractions, but
all of Noords religious structures have something interest-
ing to offer from unique architecture to beautiful, pastoral
locations. The large variety of churches in North reflect the
typically Dutch religious diversity from Hollands storied
past to the present.
Buiksloterkerk N-2, Buiksloterkerkpad 10, www.bui-
ksloterkerk.nl. The Buiksloterkerk was buil t at a time when
religion was still part of nearly everyones daily life. Since 1710
this huge building has been located in this pastoral setting,
which is a testament to the areas rural past. Another church
existed on the same spot prior to the construction of this
house of worship, but today the church functions as a venue
for various cul tural events.
De Vermaning M-3, Meerpad 9, www.vdga.nl. The
smallest church in Amsterdam is located in Noord and was
buil t for a small community of Mennonites who were unable
to attend Sunday services on the other side of the IJ. The
wooden hall is an exact replica of the original church that was
unveiled here in 1843. The tiny house of worship also made
headlines in 2001 when it became the first congregation to
allow gay people to marry.
Kerk Zunderdorp M-4, Achterlaan 20, Zunderdorp,
www.kerkzunderdorp.nl. I f someone ever organises a
competition for the Most Beautiful Church in the Netherlands,
this white-brown building will be a strong contender if not for
its architectural splendour, then at least for its idyllic loca-
tion. This place is remarkabl y quiet, al though the bleating
sheep and clucking chickens nearby create a very Dutch
atmosphere. But a plaque commemorating World War II
victims and the bricked up windows hint that this place hasnt
al ways been so peaceful. If youd like to enjoy this beautiful
spot permanentl y, its possible to reserve a space under the
poplars and chestnut trees in the cemetery. Services are held
every Sunday morning at 10:00.
Ritakerk & Rosaklooster N-2, Hagedoornplein 2.
Al though bombs couldnt destroy this church and cloister
during WWII, the gradual secularising of Dutch society eventu-
all y rang its death knell as a functioning religious structure.
Both buildings were unveiled in the 1920s and adhered to a
traditional rural style, which has remained intact.
Schellingwouderkerk N-4, Wi-
jkergouw 6, Schellingwoude. Due
to limited space in the wetlands sur-
rounding Amsterdam, buildings are
usuall y buil t on top of the remains of
a former structure and the Schelling-
wouderkerk is no excepti on. Like
many other 19th-century churches,
its buil t on a mound at the bottom
of an embankment. The churchs
interior boasts a blue-green wooden
ceiling and white plasterwork. Amsterdam-Noord
81
AMSTERDAM-NOORD: LANDELIJK
The historical centre of Amsterdam was recently named a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Numerous travel books, films
and documentaries have attempted to describe the beauty
of this fabulous city. However, few tourists are aware of a
peaceful green oasis only a stones throw from the centre
of town. Rural North, a collective name for a cluster of dike
villages, may be Amsterdams biggest and best-kept secret.
Discover its beautiful villages, its unique Wetlands and its
farmers markets where locals still sell cheese and organic
ice cream.
While the city centre with its canals and world famous
museums has plenty of tourist attractions on offer, this rural
area is relatively unknown. But North is simply waiting to be
discovered. If you take the trouble to get to know its wetlands
where it seems that time has stood still, youll find a fantastic
part of Holland that most travellers never see. And it doesnt
really matter how you explore these lovely villages. If youre
feeling a bit lazy you can simply rent a scooter and drive
through the countryside past picturesque cottages. On foot
its quite a large area to cover, but you can still see some of
its highlights. A boat or a canoe is also an excellent option to
discover this unspoiled Dutch landscape and if youre feeling
more active and you want to see it all, youd best rent a bike
for a day trip. Fortunately the bicycle tracks in this part of
Amsterdam are nothing like those in the chaotic centre of
town. While you have to watch out for cyclists flying past,
taxis impatiently leaning on their horns, trams ringing their
incessant bells and clueless tourists walking around as if
the streets were their private footpaths in the city centre,
here you can relax. The only oncoming traffic will probably be
cows crossing the road and any number of small woodland
animals and wayward pets.
A bike ride through North is essentially a trip back
through the centuries. Four centuries to be exact. Due to
the extensive peat lands and dangerous swamps, this area
remained uninhabited for ages. This unprecedented and
unspoiled piece of wetland, which is part of the Nationaal
Landschap Laag Holland (Low Holland National Landscape),
is the Netherlands at its purest. The route along the Wa-
terland Zeedijk dike from Schellingwoude to the old fishing
village of Durgerdam takes in the impressive IJsselmeer
and the buiten-IJ with its many, often historic, sailing ships.
In former days when the Zuiderzee banged against it, this
dike was of major importance as it protected the hinterland.
Dikes collapsed from time to time, which led to the origin
of many dien and an in the eastern Waterland: little
lakes and ponds. Durgerdam is the most impressive part
of this magnificent water and pasture landscape; a beauti-
ful ancient fishing village where the multi-coloured wooden
houses opposite the marina lean against one another and
offer views of the vast distances of the IJsselmeer Lake. In
the 17th century the shipping industry was the main source
of income here, which deteriorated rapidly 100 years later.
Most of the population switched to fishing, which was logical,
taking into account the open connection with the Zuiderzee
at the time. When the Zuiderzee was closed off in 1932, a
large part of the fishing industry disappeared. Today the
village is a protected conservation area.
Ransdorp is one of those typical wetland villages with his-
toric wooden houses and beautiful, traditional Dutch stolp
farmhouses tranquilly located on vast peat meadows. Its
unbelievable that this patch of peace and quiet can be found
within Amsterdam city limits! The village is marked by a large,
blunt tower visible on the horizon. Ransdorp was home to
Geertje Dircx, housekeeper and later mistress of Rembrandt.
One long bicycle route runs to Holysloot, a picturesque village
consisting of one street, the Dorpsstraat. Along the way you
can see all kinds of farms with traditional Dutch farmhouses
called stolp. Here the houses, barns and sheds are all located
under one high, single roof in the shape of a pyramid. With
this simple construction, every component of a farm could
be combined in one place in an efficient and inexpensive way.
In the 17th century this was common structure in the area.
Make sure to visit the Holysloter Die marina, owned by the
John family, which offers a famous bicycle ferry to the other
side in the direction of Broek in Waterland (there are daily
ferries between 09:00 - 17:00 in July and August). Take the
opportunity to stretch your legs at the outdoor caf or hire
a rowboat, canoe or whisper boat. The water provides an
entirely new and surprising view of the areas beauty. The
nearby restaurant Het Schoolhuis and John marina provide
information about various tourist destinations in the TIP: the
Tourist Information Point.
Last, but not least, is the Volgermeer polder, which
functioned as Amsterdams city dump in the 20th century.
Since 2003, the area is part of a massive clean-up effort
that will eventually result in a scenic park area. The name
of nearby Zunderdorp village is probably derived from the
Dutch word sundels or narrow channels that used to run
from the village to the IJ. If nothing else, make sure to visit
the beautiful church here and remember that when youre
done, Amsterdams city centre is just a short bike or ferry
ride away.
Ransdorper toren Dorpsweg 57, Ransdorp, tel. (+31)
204 90 46 05, ransdorpertoren@xs4all.nl. The renowned
Dutch painter Rembrandt van Rijn painted this striking tower
all those many years ago to impress his mistress. The 32m-
high Ransdorp Tower was buil t in Gothic style between 1540
and 1542 and nobody knows for sure if there was ever a
spire on top. Lack of funding could have been the reason for
its absence, but rumours abound that the spire was swept
away by the prow of a ship. Whatever the truth, the tower
still dominates the Wetlands around Amsterdam-Noord. I t
will take you exactl y 155 steps to reach the top, but youll be
rewarded with an amazing view. Q Opening times: in Jul y
and August every day between 11:00 - 17:00, other times
of the year on Saturdays and Sundays also between 11:00
- 17:00. Admission: 0.50.
Durgerdam Amsterdam-Noord
Zunderdorp Amsterdam-Noord
82
AMSTERDAM-NOORD: ARCHITECTURE
Perhaps because the rest of Amsterdam looked down
on North for centuries, it developed its own specific style
of architecture. After all there was plenty of space. To
outsiders it may look like the urban landscape was built at
random, but anyone curious enough to check the historic
timeline of construction will notice a pattern that links 19th
century houses on the dike, picturesque garden villages,
functional industrial buildings in former shipyards and
modern edifices. In many ways architecture and Amster-
dam North are inextricably linked. No other district has
such a wide variety of urban beauty and more than any
other district, North emphasizes the fact that Amsterdam
is a city that owes its livelihood and existence to water.
Dikes and ditches are an integral part of this fascinating
district. Before the end of this decade North will be given
a more mature status with a direct metro line linking it to
the centre of town. But until that time ferries and bikes will
remain the best ways to discover its rich architecture.
Asterdorps Last Building N-2, Asterdwarsweg 10.
The unusual name of this structure could be the title of a new
Steven Spielberg movie: Asterdorps Last Building perhaps
followed by Asterdorp Strikes Back. Nearl y 100 years ago
this unusual district was inhabited by roughl y 100 so-called
difficul t families that were referred to as antisocial people.
They learned how to live without causing inconvenience to
others here, but under the supervision of strict house supervi-
sors. Just in case the experiment were to fail, the whole district
was surrounded by a 2m-high wall. At the advent of World War
II the village was cleared in order to provide accommodation
to refugees from the bombarded city of Rotterdam. In 1942
German/Jewish families were imprisoned at Asterdorp and
were deported a year later. The complex was demolished in
1955 and all that remains today is the gatehouse where the
white, right-angled, two-storey building now stands that used
to be the onl y entrance to Asterdorp. The illustrious local
artist Andr Vol ten also lived here until his death.
El Mousshine Mosque N-2,
Meeuwenlaan. Just a short walk
from the I J-pl ein ferr y landing
youll find this stunning blue-green
Moroccan mosque designed by
architect Gerard Rijnsdorp in 2005.
Al though not open to the general
public its still worth a look from the
outside. Further down the street on
a lawn on the right is a colourful
work of art by Alfred Eikelenboom (1987) entitled De Muur.
Het Kraanspoor M-2, Kraanspoor. Its usuall y standard
practice to construct buildings verticall y, but in Amsterdam-
Noord the world of archi tecture has been turned upside
down. With Het Kraanspoor
archi tect Trude Hooykaas
designed the largest, and
possibl y the most beautiful
block of flats in the Neth-
erlands. The narrow track
of land where shipbuilding
cranes once swayed back
and forth has been trans-
formed into a giant trans-
parent building. The 270m-
long horizontal structure is
an impressi ve mi xture of
the old NDSM shipyard and
a modern glass structure
suspended above concrete
pillars forgotten by time.
Maritime Quarter M-2, NDSM-Pier. What do boats like
the Pollux, a magnificent steel three-masted schooner, the
Amstel Botel, a former riverboat cruise ship that was trans-
formed into a 3-star hotel, and the Sirius, a famous Green-
peace ship, have in common? Nothing, despite the fact that
theyre all moored adjacent to the NDSM shipyard in the Mari-
time Quarter, a striking collection of ships and buildings situ-
ated around a long jetty. Other impressive vessels include the
red Irish lightship Finley that attracts cultural party-goers from
around the city, the old Russian submarine and the wooden
Mahu M880 mine-
sweeper. Ri ght
next to the ferry
is the platform for
De Pannenkoek-
enboot (Pancake
Boat) where hun-
gr y di ner s can
enjoy a cruise and
an all-you-can-eat
pancake meal.
NDSM-werf (NDSM shipyard) M-2, NDSM-werf.
An excursion just west of the NDSM shipyard is a must for
anyone with a taste for modern architecture. For 60 years a
massive shipping industry called the NDSM-shipyard wharf
home. Countless vessels left these legendary wharves, a
part of the Dutch seafaring
tradition that had lasted for
centuri es and made Am-
sterdam one of the planets
economi c powerhouses.
But nothing lasts forever
and the shipping industry
suffered greatl y during the
economic recession of the
1970s, which had a profound
effect on Amsterdam-Noord
and i ts residents. In 1984,
the shipyard finall y closed
i ts doors, but the miser y
caused by unempl oyment
and the loss of a proud liveli-
hood sowed the seeds of
todays rebirth. The shipyard
has been converted into a cul tural venue that has become
one of Amsterdams hottest entertainment centres. Con-
certs, festivals and theatre are held amid a landscape of
monumental industrial buildings.
Old Police Station N-2, Buiksloterweg. The roof alone
is reason enough to visit Noords very first police station,
which was buil t in 1915. This classic wooden building is a
unique example of Amsterdam School architecture. The use
of timber in this style of architecture is incredibl y rare as the
designers almost al ways chose to work with brick and with
remarkable resul ts. In this particular example the roof and its
impressive chimney are the focal points of the building that
give the flamboyant structure its unusual appearance. In fact,
the bases of the chimneys are not built of stone, but zinc. The
so-called Old Police Station is now a private residence.
The Green Dragon (De Groene Draeck) M-2, Gras-
weg. The old dutch name De Groene Draeck (The Green
Dragon) is derived from the historic flat-bottomed yacht used
by the Dutch royal famil y. Its located on the premises of the
former shipyard owned by a famous famil y of shipbuilders
where the first pol yester yachts in the Netherlands were
designed and constructed. Today, the building is home to a
variety of young and dynamic companies.
83
AMSTERDAM-NOORD: ARCHITECTURE
The Overhoeks Tower N-2, Over-
hoeksplein. Whenever you approach
Noord by ferry from Central Amsterdam
this striking office building is usually the
first thing one notices in the area. Once
the tallest building in Amsterdam, i t
now has to settle for having a beauti-
ful location on the IJ. For more than
three decades this was the Dutch
headquarters of oil giant Shell, but now
its occupied by a cluster of younger
and much smaller enterprises. The
Overhoeks Tower and its adjacent pavilion were designed
by architect Arthur Staal in 1971.
Trommelwoningen L-2, Schel-
visch Hoofd. Twiske West is part
of a new development that consists
of 12 circular residential buildings.
Each so-called drum contains seven
dwellings surrounding an open cen-
tral courtyard. All of the homes oc-
cupy three floors and have a garden.
Because each of the three storeys is
comprised of one seventh of a circle,
each apartment has abundant sunlight and a panoramic view
of almost 160 degrees.
Tuindorp Nieuwendam M/N-3, Purmerplein. The city
began building extensive housing projects during a period of
booming economic growth and prosperity around the year
1900 to cope with a skyrocketing population. English style
garden villages were built and Nieuwendam is the most beau-
tiful of the lot. Prior to World War II, Tuindorp Nieuwendam was
even considered to be the prettiest garden village in Europe
speciall y buil t for workers. The livel y central square is called
Purmerplein and its surrounded by characteristic low level
houses and plenty of green areas. The raised gatehouses
at the Purmerweg shield the streets behind them from pass-
ers-by and traffic creating an intimate atmosphere. Nearby
Tuindorp Oostzaan is also picturesque and not without its
charms.
Van der Pekbuurt N-2, Van der Pekstraat. The Van
der Pek neighbourhood is probabl y the best example of the
genuine old Amsterdam-Noord, which is now emerging as
a popular place to live due to recent renovations. Al though
a stone house with a garden in the middle of a city seems
like a rather standard si tuation today, a 100 years ago
this definitel y wasnt the case. On the pretext of creating a
green environment for every worker in the rapidl y expanding
shipbuilding industry, small garden villages were buil t by the
city. The tiny one-storey homes with private gardens are now
once again in demand and the neigbourhood is a perfect
place for cyclists.
Wooden Houses M-3, Nieu-
wendammerdijk. Al though most
of the standard gui debooks are
quick to point out that Amsterdam
has onl y two wooden houses left,
thats definitel y not the case. More
than 160 classic wooden homes still
remain the other side of the River IJ.
Bundled together in little photogenic
streets alongside picturesque dikes
like the Buiksloterdijk, Schellingwouderdijk and the beautiful
Nieuwendammerdijk, all are easil y accessible by bike. Most
of these forgotten testaments to an Amsterdam nearl y lost
were buil t in the 17th and 19th centuries.
If youre not in the mood to wander around on unfa-
miliar ground, the district of Amsterdam-Noord has
created both walking and cycling routes to satisfy all
who move on two wheels or legs.
Bicycle Routes - Noordje Fietst If youve come
to the Netherlands to see ancient dike houses, garden
villages and industrial architecture then youve come to
the right place at Amsterdam-Noord. Discover the charms
of Amsterdams greenest district on a variety of (free)
walking and cycling tours. Our favourite is the Discover
the Dutch Zeedijk, a route which takes you along 5km of
picturesque and historic dikes in 1.5 hours. The Cycling
along historic farms route is another good option, which
takes you past 15km of beautiful and charming villages
just outside the city, but still in the district of Noord in
about 3 hours. Along the way youll probabl y see more
cows than people. Aficionados of industrial architecture
will appreciate the Discover Art and Architecture in North,
which also takes roughly 3 hours and covers 15km. Finally,
if youd like to see a little bit of everything try the Discover
the best of the North. Once again, most people can cycle
through the 15km ride in 3 hours.
Walking Routes - Noordje Loopt N-3 Al though the
Dutch might have a tough time picturing a world without
bicycles, many tourists prefer a leisurel y stroll to a vigor-
ous ride. If youre one of these bona fide pedestrians then
head over to the Nieuwendammerdijk, an undiscovered
gem. I ts many wooden buildings and warehouses will
take you on a journey through the roaring 1920s. The
Through Nieuwendammerdijk and Garden Village Nieu-
wendam route will take you past all of these places in
roughl y one hour.
Cycling & Walking routes
84
AMSTERDAM NOORD: KIDS & SHOPS
Noord for kids
Noord isnt just for cyclists, architecture aficionados and
festival-goers. Children and teenagers can learn how to
grind and ollie at a skatepark or search for hidden treasure
in the nearby wetlands.
Pirates Tour Kanaaldijk 32a, Landsmeer, tel. (+31) 880
06 44 55, www.landschapnoordholland.nl/Piratentocht.
Just like true pirates, children can also be adventurous and
search this wetlands area for real treasure. Up to five children
and one adul t can take a rowboat and look for clues until they
find the pot of gold. Perfect for a slightl y different childrens
birthday party. QOpen 10.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon. (20/
boat for 2 hours). TN
Skatepark Amsterdam M-2, T.T. Neveritaweg 15a,
tel. (+31) 641 70 07 67, info@skateparkamsterdam.
com, www.skateparkamsterdam.nl. On the second floor
of this historic shipbuilding hangar, youll find a 2,000m
2
float-
ing skate park. At a height of over 7m, this is a paradise for
skating and rollerblading enthusiasts. Theres a separate
stand where spectators can watch their offspring or other
young speed fanatics and its also possible to take lessons.
QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: 5.50. TLG
Shopping in Noord
You wont find anything similar to the Kalverstraat here,
but you can visit an organic farmers market or a giant
shopping mall with over 200 stores.
Bizim Ufuk Market M-4, Werengouw 204. People of
Turkish origin come here to this spacious store to find all of
the ingredients they need for a good halal meal.
Boven t IJ M-3, Buikslotermeerplein 273, www.
boventy.nl. 200 shops that are clustered together in this
giant shopping centre. Q PTA6ULGKSW
HEMA M-2, NDSM-straat 12, tel. (+31) 204 93 06 79,
www.hema.nl. This quintessentiall y Dutch chain of depart-
ment stores is a household name in Holland. Whole genera-
tions of locals have grown up on HEMAs famous smoked
sausage rolls, but HEMA also sells standard items for your
home as well as fashion for the whole famil y. QOpen 08:30
- 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TLS
Landmarkt Amsterdam N-4, Schellingwouderdijk
339, www.landmarkt.nl. This spacious indoor hall is heaven
on earth for foodies and anyone who appreciates fresh food,
but unlike similar organic markets the bread, meat, fish and
vegetables are affordable. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00
- 18:00. TAULG
85
AMSTERDAM NOORD: GETTING AROUND
Getting around Noord
There are many ways to cross over to Amsterdam North
from the city centre. Walking is probably most fun, but
takes the longest. You can reach Noord by car or scooter
in mere minutes, but our favourite mode of transportation
is still the bicycle. After all, Amsterdam North is a paradise
for adventurous cyclists. Getting lost is part of the fun of
biking around this very green district, but theres a whole
network of well-marked bicycle routes if youre in a hurry
and not in the mood for wandering. If you take the trouble
of pedalling for an hour or so, youll see both derelict
and renovated industrial zones, ports, vacant lots, dike
hamlets, meadows and a great variety of architectural
masterpieces. This curious combination of tranquillity and
activity is Noord in a nutshell.
The Bridge To get to Amsterdam-Noord you can also ride your
bike right through Amsterdam East, crossing the Amsterdam
Bridge and the Schellingwoude Bridge. Then turn left to reach
Schellingwoude and Nieuwendam or right to head out to
Durgerdam and Hol ysloot.
Buses Buses also take you to the north part of the city. Buses
Nr. 31, 32, 33, 34 and 35 leave from the Bus station right
behind Central Station.
Ferries There are three different ferries that will take you over
the River IJ in just a few minutes and bring you to Amsterdam-
Noord completel y free of charge. Thats right! You can walk
on board or bring your bike or scooter and the short ride
wont cost you a cent. In fact, the ferries have been around
for a long time and the very first regular IJ ferrie set sail way
back in 1897. The departure landing is located just behind
Amsterdam Central Station. From there you can either take
the ferry to Buiksloterweg (day and night), IJ-plein (till midnight)
and, also till midnight, the NDSM-werf (the former dockyards).
From the Tasmanstraat in Amsterdam-West the ferry takes
you to either the NDSM-werf or the Distel weg. And please
note that due to the high number of passengers sometimes
extra routes appear.
Amsterdam Rent a Bike N-3, Nieuwendammerdijk
215, tel. (+31) 613 99 86 75, www.amsterdamrent-
abike.com. Rents good bikes for 10 - 13.
Master Car Rent Bv N-2, Meeuwenlaan 102a, tel.
(+31) 206 36 05 13, www.mastercarrent.nl. Rent a car
here from 37.50.
Scooter Experience De Gouwe 15, Landsmeer, tel. (+31)
204 82 00 08, www.scooterexperience.nl. All the tourist
attractions are close by on a scooter. Q Rates from 20.
Restaurant, coffeeshop and nightlife index
Abraxas 49
Aen't Water 39
Alberto's Steakhouse 32
Al Ponte 32
Al to Jazz Caf 43
Amnesia 49
Aquarius Strandpaviljoen 38
Assaggi 31
Backstage Hotel 23
Bagels & Beans 24
Bakkerij Lekker Brood en Zo 24
Balls 36
Barney's 49
Batavia 1920 44
Bazar 33
Beer Temple 38
Beurs van Berlage 34
Biblos 36
Bird 33
Bitterzoet 43
Black Tiger Bar 36
BlinQ 30
Bluebird 49
Bourbon Street 43
Brandstof 36
Brouwerij 't IJ 39
Brouwerij de Prael 39
Bulldog No. 90 50
Bulldog Palace 50
Burger King 28
Caf Americain 35
Caf Belgique 38
Caf Berkhout 39
Caf Casablanca 43
Caf Chris 39
Caf De Blauwe Druif 40
Caf De Doelen 40
Caf de Klos 24
Caf de Koe 36
Caf de Spuyt 38
Caf de Zeevaart 44
Caf de Zwart 35
Caf Eik en Linde 40
Caf Fonteyn 34
Caf Heffer 34, 36
Caf Karpershoek 40
Caf Kobal t 34
Caf Mooy 36
Caf Papeneiland 40
Caf Pieper 40
Caf Proust 30
Cafe Quinto 27
Caf Rouge 46
Cafe Ruis onder de bomen 28
Caf Schel tema 35
Caf Schiller 35
Caf Slij terij Oosterling 40
Caf Sound Garden 36
Cafe Stevens 40
Caf Thijssen 44
Cafe Thuys 37
Caf Van Zuylen 34
Caf Wheels 34
Casa Rosso 45
Chao Phraya 33
Chicago Social Club 42
Ciel Bleu 33
Club-8 39
Club 8 41
Club Church 46
Club Escape 41
Club Up 41
Coco's Outback 37
Coffeeshop 36 50
CREA Caf 44
D'Vijff Vlieghen 33
De 2 Grieken 29
De Bakkerswinkel 30
De Beiaard 30
De Bekeerde Suster 39
De Bijenkorf Kitchen 26
De Deugniet 37
De Drie Flesches 43
De Duvel 34
De Kat in de Wijngaert 35
De Keu 39
De Keuken Van 1870 27
De Kleine Karseboom 44
De Pilsener Club 40
De Roode Leeuw 27
Desa 30
De Schreierstoren 37
De Spijker 46
De Zotte 38
Dolphins 50
Domino's Pizza 29
Drink 'n' Sink 37
Espressofabriek 26
Fior di Gelato 29
Funny People 50
Gandhi 29
George Deli U.S.A. 34
Gollem's Proeflokaal 38
Grand Caf l' Opera 34
Grasshopper 50
Greenhouse Centrum 50
Greenwoods 30
Grill Steakhouse Mama 28
Guadalupe 31
Haesje Claes 27
Hard Rock Caf 24
Heineken Hoek 35
Het Elfde Gebod 40
Holland Casino 41
IJscuypje 29
Il Tramezzino 31
In de Olofspoort 43
In de Wildeman 38
Indrapura 30
Jimmy Woo's 41
Kamasutra 29
Kantjil & de Tijger 30
Koepel Caf 35
Kwekkeboom 24
Lanskroon 24
La Perla 32
La Place 26
La Tertulia 50
La Traviata 31
Lime Bar 37
Lion of Judah 50
Long Pura 30
Los Pilones 31
Louis Bar 37
Magic 51
Maxime 28
Melkweg 41
Mell y's Cookie Bar 26
Moll y Malone's 42
Monte Pelmo 29
Montmartre 46
Mulliner's Wijnlokaal 45
Nachttheater Sugar Factory 41
Nam Kee 26
New King 26
NJOY! 42
Noon 51
O' Reill y's 42
Old Church 51
Old Nickel 38
Open 28
Ovidius 35
Owl Hotel 22
Parck 37
Park Hotel Amsterdam 21
Prik 46
Proeflokaal De Ooievaar 43
Ranara 31
Rastababy 51
Reality 47
Resin 51
Rokerij IV 51
Roots 28
Rusland 51
'Skek Eetcaf 28
Sake & Co 42
Sara's Pancake House 32
Satellite Sports Caf 44
Siberie 51
Slainte Irish Pub 42
Smokey 51
Snow Lion 33
Solo 51
Song Kwae 33
Soup Kitchen 26
Strand-West 24
Studio 2 26
Studio 80 41
Subway 28
Supperclub Amsterdam 41
Susie's Saloon 37
Szanka Teppanyaki 31
't Arendsnest 39
't Centrum 40
't Lieverdje 28
t Nieuwe Kaf 35
Taboo 47
Teasers 44
Teddy's Corner 26
The Bananen Bar & Club 45
The Cave 43
The Corner 26
The Pancake Bakery 32
The Queens Head 47
Thermos Sauna 47
The Saint 51
The Tara 42
The Waterhole 43
Tony's NY City Bagels 24
To Ouzeri 29
Toro Dorado 32
Twenty Third Bar 42
Vietnam Restaurant 33
Village Bagels 24
Villa Zeezicht 35
Vivelavie 47
Wagamama 24
Whiskycaf L&B 44
Wing Kee 26
Yamazato 31
86
VENUE INDEX
48 HOURS TICKET
44,00
33,00
T 020 626 55 74 www.canal.nl
CREATE YOUR OWN SIGHTSEEING TOUR
HERMITAGE
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
RIJKSMUSEUM
ANNE FRANK HOUSE
90
NETHERLANDS MAP
91
OLD CENTRE STREET REGISTER
Amstel B3
Amstelstraat B3
Bakkersgang=112 A2
Bakkersstraat=8 B3
Balk In T Oogsteeg B3
Bantammerbrug=63 B1
Barndesteeg B2
Begijnensteeg=64 A3
Begijnhof A3
Bethanindwars-
straat=110 B2
Bethaninstraat B2
Bethlehemsgang* B1
Bethlehem-steeg=105
B2
Beulingstraat A3
Beurspassage=18 A2
Beursplein A2
Beurspoortje=83 A2
Beursstraat A1
Binnen
Bantammerstraat B1
Binnengasthuisstraat
B3
Binnenkant B1
Blaauwlakensteeg=25
B2
Blaeu Erf=82 A2
Blaeustraat=85 A2
Blauwburgwal=96 A1
Blinde Katersteeg=45
B3
Blindemansteeg B3
Bloedstraat B2
Boerensteeg A2
Boomsteeg=107 B1
Brandewijnsteeg=60 B2
Breemertuin* B2
Brouwersgracht=1 A1
Buiten
Bantammerstraat B1
Bushuissluis=92 B2
Cellebroerssteeg=61 A3
Dam A2
Damrak A1
Damraksteeg A2
Damstraat A2
Dijkdwarsstraat=94 B2
Dijkstraat B2
Dirk Van Hassel tssteeg
A1
Doelensluis=69 B3
Dollebegijnen-steeg=55
B2
Dubbeleworst-steeg=49
A3
Duifjessteeg A3
Duivensteeg* B2
Dwars Spinhuis-
steeg=98 B2
Eggertstraat A2
Elleboogsteeg=13 B1
Enge Kapelsteeg A3
Enge Kerksteeg=78 B1
Enge Lombardsteeg A2
Engelse
Pelgrimsteeg=58 B3
Engelsesteeg A1
Gapersteeg A2
Gasthuismolen-
steeg=26 A2
Gebed Zonder End=27
B3
Gedempte
Begijnensloot A3
Gedempte
Huidenvetterssloot=12
B2
Geel vinckssteeg=50 B3
Geldersekade B1
Geldersesteeg=41 B1
Goldbergersteeg=75 A2
Gooijersteeg=32 B2
Gordijnensteeg=87 B2
Goudsbloemsteeg=111
A3
Gouwenaarssteeg=44
A1
Gravenstraat A2
Grimburgwal B3
Groenburgwal B3
Guldehandsteeg=100
B1
Haarlemmerstraat=5 A1
Hal vemaansbrug B3
Hal vemaansteeg B3
Handboogstraat A3
Haringpakkerssteeg A1
Hasselaerssteeg A1
Heiligeweg A3
Heintje Hoekssteeg B1
Heisteeg A3
Hekel veld A1
Herengracht A3
Hermietenstraat=97 A2
Hoogkamersgang=7 B2
Houtzagersgang=103
A3
Huidenstraat A3
J.W. Siebbeleshof=24 B2
Jeroenensteeg=43 A1
Jonge Roelensteeg A2
Kaatsbaansteeg* A2
Kalfsvelsteeg=53 A3
Kal verstraat A2
Kal vertoren A3
Karnemelksteeg=19 A1
Kattengat A1
Keizerrijk A2
Keizersstraat B2
Kleersloot=14 B2
Klimopstraatje=67 A1
Klooster=15 B3
Kloveniersburgwal B2
Klovenierssteeg=89 B2
Koestraat B2
Koggestraat A1
Kolksteeg A1
Kollegat* B1
Koningsplein A3
Koningsstraat B2
Korte Dijkstraat=38 B2
Korte Kolksteeg A1
Korte
Koningsstraat=119 B2
Korte Korsjespoort-
steeg=80 A1
Korte
Lijnbaanssteeg=52 A1
Korte Niezel B1
Korte Reguliersdwars-
straat=17 B3
Korte
Spinhuissteeg=84 B2
Korte Stormsteeg=121
B1
Kreupelsteeg=74 B2
Krom Boomssloot B2
Kromelleboog-
steeg=66 A2
Kromme Waal B1
Kuiperssteeg A3
Lange Keizersdwars-
straat=48 B2
Lange Niezel B1
Langebrugsteeg=72 A3
Lastageweg B1
Leidekkerssteeg=9 B2
Lijnbaanssteeg=117 A1
Lommertbrug=108 B2
Loodgietersgang* A2
Louwenpoort* A1
Makelaarsbrug-
getje=95 B3
Mandenmakers-steeg
A1
Martelaarsgracht A1
Mattengang* B2
Moddermolen-
straat=99 B2
Molensteeg B1
Molsteeg A2
Monnikendwars-
straat=90 B2
Monnikenstraat B2
Mosterdpotsteeg=47 A2
Mozes En Abonstraat A2
Muntplein B3
Nadorststeeg=93 A2
Nes A2
Nieuwe Doelenstraat B3
Nieuwe Hoefijzergang*
B2
Nieuwe Hoogstraat B2
Nieuwe Jonkerstraat B1
Nieuwe Nieuwstraat A2
Nieuwe Ridderstraat B1
Nieuwe
Spaarpotsteeg=71 A2
Nieuwebrugsteeg B1
Nieuwendijk A2
Nieuwezijds Armsteeg
A1
Nieuwezijds Kolk A1
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal
A2
Nieuwmarkt B2
Ode-Brug B1
Olieslagerssteeg=20 A3
Onkelboerensteeg=23
B2
Onze Lieve
Vrouwesteeg A1
Oosterdokskade B1
Openhartsteeg=56 A3
Ossenspook-steeg=11
A1
Oude Braak A1
Oude Doelenstraat B2
Oude Hoefijzergang* B2
Oude Hoogstraat B2
Oude Nieuwstraat A1
Oude Spiegelstraat A3
Oude Turfmarkt B3
Oude Waal B1
Oudebrugsteeg A1
Oudekennissteeg=76 B1
Oudekerksplein B1
Oudemanhuispoort B3
Oudeschans=68 B2
Oudezijds Achterburgwal
B1
Oudezijds Armsteeg B1
Oudezijds Kolk B1
Oudezijds Voorburgwal B2
Paardenstraat B3
Paleisstraat A2
Panaalsteeg A1
Papenbroekssteeg=31
A2
Papenbrugsteeg=54 A2
Paternostersteeg=51 A1
Pentagon=79 B2
Pieter Jacobszdwars-
straat=113 A2
Pieter Jacobszstraat A2
Pijlsteeg A2
Prins Hendrikkade B1
Prinsenhofssteeg B2
Raadhuisstraat A2
Raadhuisstraat A2
Raamgracht B2
Raamsteeg A3
Ramskooi=106 A1
Recht Boomssloot B1
Reguliersbreestraat B3
Reguliersdwarsstraat
B3
Regulierssteeg=57 B3
Rembrandtplein B3
Rokin A3
Romeinsarmsteeg=34
A3
Romeinsteegje=22 A2
Roomolenstraat=36 A1
Roskamsteeg=70 A3
Rosmarijnsteeg A3
Rotganssteeg* A1
Rozenboomsteeg=73
A3
Rusland B2
Salamandersteeg=116
B2
Schapensteeg B3
Schoorsteenvegers-
steeg=46 A3
Schoutensteeg=6 A2
Servetsteeg A2
S-Gravelandseveer=10
B3
Singel A3
Sint Agnietenstraat B2
Sint Annendwarsstraat*
B2
Sint Annenstraat A2
Sint Antoniesbreestraat
B2
Sint Antoniesluis=37 B2
Sint Barberenstraat=29
A3
Sint Geertruidensteeg
A2
Sint Jacobsdwars-
straat=104 A1
Sint Jacobsstraat A1
Sint Jansbrug=109 B2
Sint Jansstraat A2
Sint Lucinsteeg A3
Sint Nicolaasstraat A2
Sint Olofspoort=114 B1
Sint Olofssteeg* B1
Sint Pietershalsteeg A2
Sint Pieterspoort=86 A2
Sint Pieterspoortsteeg
A2
Sint Pieterssteeg=118
B3
Slaperssteeg=4 B1
Sleeperssteeg=40 B2
Sleutelbrug B3
Slijkstraat B2
Sloterdijksteeg A2
Smaksteeg A1
Smidssteegje=124 B1
Snoekjesgracht B2
Snoekjessteeg=88 B2
Spaarpotsteeg=35 B3
Spijkergang* B2
Spijkersteeg=59 A2
Spinhuissteeg B2
Spooksteeg=102 B1
Spui A3
Spuistraat A2
Staalkade B3
Staalstraat B3
Stationsplein=39 A1
Steenhouwerssteeg=21
A2
Stoofsteeg B2
Stormsteeg=91 B1
Strobossengang* B3
Stromarkt* A1
Suikerbakkerssteeg* A1
T Hol A2
Taksteeg A3
Teerketelsteeg A1
Thorbeckeplein B3
Torensteeg=77 A2
Treeftsteeg=33 A3
Trompettersgang* B2
Trompetterssteeg=42
B2
Turfdraagsterpad B3
Utrechtsestraat B3
Valkensteeg A2
Vendelstraat B3
Verversstraat B3
Vijzelstraat B3
Vliegendesteeg=62 A3
Voetboogstraat A3
Vredenburger-
steeg=101 B1
Vrouwengang* A3
Waalsteeg B1
Walenpleintje=123 B2
Warmoesstraat A1
Waterlooplein=3 B2
Waterpoortsteeg=115
B1
Watersteeg A3
Wijde Heisteeg A3
Wijde Kapelsteeg A3
Wijde Kerksteeg A1
Wijde Lombardsteeg=65
A2
Wijdesteeg A3
Wijngaardsstraatje=16
B1
Wittepaardsteeg=122
B1
Wol venstraat=2 A3
Zakgang* A2
Zakslootje=28 B2
Zanddwarsstraat B2
Zandstraat B2
Zeedijk B1
Zil versmidsgang=120 A1
Zoutenhaansteeg=81 A3
Zoutsteeg A2
Zuiderkerkhof B2
Zwanenburgwal B3
Zwartehandsteeg=30 A2
Zwartlakensteeg B2

Amsterdam

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N01 - 2.

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