Antique Manual Handsewing

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COPYRIGin" DEPOSIT.
MANUAL OF EXERCISES
IN
HAND SEWING
ADOPTED BY
NDUSTRIAL AND GRADED SCHOOLS.
BY
MARGARET
J.
BLAIR,
Author of " Sewing and Garment Drafting,"
Instructor of Sewing in the School of Agriculture, University of Minnesota.
FIRST EDITION.
ST.
PAUL, MINN.:
CO.,
1904.
WEBB PUBLISHING
'K
LIBRARY
of
CONGRESS
Two Copies Received
DEC 19
1904
y Couyrii;ni tntry /OoAt ;:^$.^ô^*<i\J^^

CI.
XXc. Noi
Copy
B.
COPYRIGHTED,
BY
1904,
WEBB PUBLISHING
CO.
INDEX.
Apron Back Stitching Bag
Basting Blind Hemming Button Holes Buttons
Catstitching
25
5
15
5-11
64
36-85 39-87
6 7
Chainstitching
Darning
Damask Darning
Stockinet Darning
'
91
41-89
Stockinet Web Darning Three Cornered Darn
93 18
75 30
7-56
Decorative
Doll's Skirt
Stitches
Double Hemstitching Drawing Threads Extension Hems Faced Hems Fastenings Buttons Button Holes Hook and Eyes Loops and Eyelets Feather Stitching Felled Seam and Hemmed Seams Flannel Patch
Flannel Seams French Seams, Back Stitched
26 54
54 87 39
36-85
87 88
7
49
34
83
and
Half
Back Stitched
46
63
Seam
French Hem French Knots Gathering, Gauging and Putting on Band
75
30-67
vi
INDEX.
59 69 46 81 49 21
64
Gathering and Putting on a Ruffle Gussets Half Back Stitch Hemmed Patch
Hemmed Seam Hemming Blind Hemming

Faced and Extension Hem French Hem Hems on Woolen Material and Three Cornered Darn.. Hemstitched Hem
Rolled
54
63
64
49
59
Hem
Hemming
Slip Stitch
64
Turning Hem Herringbone Stitch Hooks and Eyes Loops and Eyelets Loop Stitch Matching of Stripes Mitered Corner Model Apron Model Bag Model Doll's Skirt Model Pillow Slip Model Sheet Model Towel
Overcasting Overhand Patch
21
6
87 87
8
77 75
25 15
30
23
21
36-56
6
28-79
52-6
Overhand Stitch
Patching
Flannel Patch
34 81
Hemmed
Overhand
Pillow
Slip
28
.79
23
Plackets
Placket Holes
Skirt Plackets
30 71 73
aO-67
Sleeve Placket Putting on Band Putting on Ruffle Questions and Answers Rolled and Hemstitched
59 96
Hems and
Putting on a Ruffle.
59
INDEX.
Running and Basting Running Stitch
vii
43
5-9
Seams
Back Stitched Seam
Basting Seams
5
5-11
Seam Seam French Seam

Felled
49 83
Flannel
46
46 49
28-79
Half Back Stitched Seam
Hemmed Seam
Overhanding Sewed Sewing on Buttons Sewir. g on Lace Sewing on Tapes
Sheet
Skirt
13 39 53
26-56
21
Plackets
71
73 64
Sleeve Plackets
Slip Stitch
Hemming
Stitches
Backstitching
Basting
Catstitching
5-11
6
Chainstitching
Decorative Stitches Double Hem Stitching Feather Stitch
75
,
7 7
French Knots Half Back Stitch Herringbone Stitch Loop Stitch On Canvass
Overcasting Stitch
75
46
6 8 5
6
Overhand Stitch Running Stitch Stockinet Darning

Stockinet
52-6
5-9
41-89
Web
93 18
36-56
Three Cornered Darning Towel Turning Hem
21
INTRODUCTION.
All educators agree that the beginning and successive
steps
of
education murt harmonize with

o
the
corresponding stages of the ch
development.
This
gives sewing, cutting and fashioning garments one of
the first places in the succession of studies to be taken

up.
The
child has scarcely a point of contact with
the world that he so readily perceives as that

his
made by
own garments.
A
But
if
refined taste in one's dress
and belongings has

life.
usually been regarded as an acquirement of adult

the child
is
trained along wholesome natural
lines, his taste will
develop individuality very early.

successfully
in
To introduce sewing
schools,
the
public
three
important points must be considered.

Second, the effect upon
pupil.
First, the merit of the system.
the school
work and upon the
Third,
tlie
abil-
ity or efficiency of those
who superintend
or teach the
sewing.
Under
a system wdiich
is
carefully planned and
properly carried out, learning to sew will become a

pleasant as well as an instructive part of
cation.
a child's
edu-
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING

The system should he adapted
to
the
;
diflferent
it
grades
it
should be simple and practical
should
have some relation to the other school work.
In our work
it
touches upon animal
life
through
the sheep, silkworm,
and other creatures which in one
way
or another produce textile threads or the sewing
implements.
In much the same manner

Then,
too,
it
touches up-
on plant
life.
arithmetic, drawing, color
study, physical training, geography and history
may
be
correlated
with sewing in this system.
All
manual
training makes a pupil

ing.
more
active
and more observinterests the pupil
It rests certain faculties
and
in nature.
also
Sewing, properly taught, trains the child
in neatness.
It is a great
advantage
to be
to
have but one kind of
work
not
in a class,
which
taught successfully should
number
moi'e than twenty- five, as pupils need in-
dividual attention.
it
is,
Yet experience
also
teaches that
is
necessary to give children a variety of work, that

child does not succeed satisfactorily with the
the first time, give her another piece,
if a
work
and
in hand,
later return to the first instead of insisting that she
work on the one piece
until
it is
exact.
in
child
who has
had the industrial work used
the kindergarten or
hei'
lower grades, will have had training to prepare

readily
to
take
up the sewing
in
the fourth grade.
The
first
work given should be
a piece of canvas
and
some of the simple

sures regularity of
stitches used in sewing.

stitch,
This enof
as
well
as
the method
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.

making
it.
It is also better to give chiklreu the coarser

first,
materials at
as their little
hands need training in
holding their work licforc they take
np
fine
work.
slionhl
The next material placed
in the pnpil's
hands
be gingham or half-l)leached nmslin.

the
The
stripes of
tluis
"gingham
will
be
gnide for the
stitches,
training the piipil to sew straight.
As
the different
kinds of material are taken up, the teacher slionld instruct the pupils concerning them,
and should give
in-
struction in the use of the implements in the sewing

basket.
The sewing
to
basket,
which
in itself will
lie
a delight
the child,
should be well equipped with scissors,

ta])e-line,
needles,
thread, thimble,
and emery.
fail
The
be
a
orderly keeping of this basket will Udt

source of pride to the small
girl.
to
well graded system of sewing will include reg-
ular examinations for which a text Ijook outlining the
recpiirements
indispensable.
and suggesting questions will be quite

Essays dealing with some
<r
lu'anch
of
sewing,
the implements used,
describing the his-
tory of textiles from the shearing of the sheep, the
planting of the cotton seed, or the beginning of the

life of the silk
worm,
may
be recpiired, at the judg-
ment of
the
teacher.
By
the time a child completes her grade
work she
.should be well versed in the relative prices
and quality
age
of silk and gingham.

she
is
She may learn

to select
at the
when
lin-
most teachable, how
her household
EXERCISES
:iii<l
IN
HAND SEWING.
is
en
wliv the firm-threaded

it
cheapest in the end,

at first.
even
if
is
a little
more expensive
To
teach sewing snccessfnlly the teacher must be
ahle to adapt the system to her pnpils and to the time
she has at her disposal.
Much
if
can he accomplished
even in a limited period
the essentials are properly
chosen from the elementary work here outlined.
MODEL
Object:
the
I.
STITCHES OK CANVAS.
To teach
regularity of stitches as well as
method of making them.

Materials:
Ada
canvas,
size
7x0 inches.
Mer-
cerized crochet cotton, red and green, blue

these colors being
and orange,
Dult
complementary
ISTo.
to
each other.
pointed tapestry needles
24.
to find the
Fold the canvas lengthwise

of holes through
es,
middle row
stitch-
which make
row of running
using the red cotton.
Since running stitches are

size, the
small basting stitches of equal
thread ^^hould
pass through each hole in the row.
Skip one row of holes, and in the next one make

a
row of basting
stitches,
using the green cotton.

first
In
hole
this
row put the needle down through the

a
up through the second, then skipping

the
hole
insert
needle
again coming up through the next hole.

stitch.
This makes an uneven basting

of holes,
stitching,
Skip two rows

a
and in the next one make

using the orange cotton.
row of back
In this row put
the needle
down through
the
first hole,
up through the
again
second,
tlien
back through
the
first
and
up
through the canvas one hole ahead of wliere the previ-
EXERCISES
left tlie
IN
HAND SEWING
Continue in the sanic man-
ons stitch
canxas.
ner across the canvas.

a
Skip one row of holes and make

using the
the
roAv
of overhanding' over the next two,
bine cotton.
In
this
row of
stitches
pnt
needle
down through
under
it.
the
first
hole aiid
up through the one
Insert
the needle
u|)
again in the hole next

it.
to the first
one aiid
through the one under
This
to left.
makes
row of
stitches
which
slant
a
from right
Skip one row of holes and make

like the previous one.
row of hackstitching
Skip two rows of holes and beginning
at the left
make
row of overcasting over the next two, using

This row of stitches
it
the green cotton.
is
made
the
same
left
as the
to
overhanding except that
is
worked from
stitch.
a
right
and
hole
is
left
between each
Ski]> one
row of holes and over the next three make

using the red cotton.
at
left
r(w of catstitching
In
this
row begin
the
left,
hold
|)ut
the
thread
under the thumb of the
hand and
the needle
first.
down
throuiih the second hole
and up through the

it
Carry the thread across and put

iliird
doAvn through the
hole in the third
row of holes and up through

thread across to the fourth hole
as before until the
the second.
in the first
is
Carrv
tlu^
row and continue

This stitch
is is
row
finished.
sometimes called "herring-
bone" and
used to catch open the seams of flannels,
in patching flannel the ridge
and on raw edged hems,
to avoid
formed by folding the edge.
Skip one row and make another row of overcasting like the previous one.
Skip two rows of holes
and
in the next
one make a row of chainstitchi np: nsing
Ihe orange cotton.
This stitch
thi'oad
is
worked towards you.

left
Hold
the
nnder the thumb of the
hand and put the
needle
down through
it
the
first
hole and
up through
the
second, bringing
out over the thread.

it
Insert the
needle again in the second hole, putting

right of the point
down
at the
where the thread leaves the canvas,
thus holding
hole,
it
in place.
Come up through
the next
bringing the needle over the thread as before.
This results in a series of stitches resembling the

links of a chain.
The
stitches should be
uniform and
not
drawn
too tightly.
is a
C'hainstitching
method of embroidering often
used for outlining patterns.
Skip
a
row of holes and over the next three make

cotton.
row of featherstitching, using the blue

This stitch
is
also
worked towards you.
Hold
the
thread under the
thumb
first
of the left hand, put the needle
down through
it
the
hole in the top

in
row and bring
up through the second hole
the middle row, bring-
ing the needle out over the thread.

stitch
Take the second
on the opposite
side,
pointing the needle toward
the middle
row of
holes.
For the second
stitch the
needle should enter the canvas in the third row of holes

opposite the second one in the middle row, and come
up through the third hole
in the
middle and over the

which
is
thread,
in the
held
down bv
the thumb.
is
Continue
same manner until the row

or
completed.
Two
on each
more
stitches instead of one
may
be taken
is
side.
Feather
stitch or brier stitch
often
used in embroidery and fancy work, as well as in sewing.
It
is
used very often in finishing the seams,

flannel garments.
hems and tucks of

featherstitching
is
The beauty
of
in uniformity of the stitch.
Skip one row of holes and make another one of

chainstitching like the previous one.
Skip one row of holes and over the next three
make
the loop stitch, using the red cotton.

is
This stitch
worked from
left to right, holding,
the edge of the material towards you.
Hold
needle
the thread under the the

first
thumb and put
the
down through
hole and
it
up through the
second one beneath
it,
bringing
out over the thread.

is
Repeat
stitch is
this process until the
row
completed.
Loo])
used to secure and ornament the edges of woolIt is also used for
en materials.
doilies
working the edges of
by making the
stitches close together.
The row
of running stitches being in the middle

all
of the model, repeat
the other stitches on the other
half of the model.
Overcast the ends of the model
with
the red cotton, leavino- half
an inch for
fringinsf.
MODEL
KUNNI^G
Object:
II.
STITCH.
its use.
To
learn the running stitch and

piece of striped
Material:
bleached muslin
N'o.
;
gingham
or half-
size
0x3 inches, needles
]ô. 8,
thread
60 (red).
Turn
a half incli fold
on one edge of the muslin
and, beginning at the right to sew, take several small
Model
IT
Running Stitch.
at a
even stitches upon the needle
time and sew across,
keeping the line of sewing one-eighth of an inch from

the fold or following the stitch in the gingham.
Great
care should be taken to fasten the thread firmly and

neatly.
This
is
done by taking two
stitches
in
the
same
place, one over the other.
10
EXERCISES
IN
HAND SEWING.
shonld be
.should
A
ularity
second row of
tlie first.
stitclies
made
one-half
reg-
inch below
The teacher
work for
the
of stitch
and of spaces, and
if
stitches will look
are exactly even, as tliev shonld be, the the
work
same on both
sides.
is
Running, which
eqnal
size, is
composed of small
stitches of
nsed in seams that are not subject to mncli
strain, in darning,
and
in oatherins'.
MODEL
(Jhjeci:
III.
BASTIXG STITCHES.
To leani
liow to baste.
lialf-bleaclied
Materia]:
Gingliam or
muslin
by
(i
inches, needle 'No. 8, thread
No. 60 (red).
Turn
half inch fold on one side of the mnslin;
coiuincnce at the right and baste across the material
one-eighth of an inch from the edge.
In basting the
knot
is left
on the
rii>'ht
side so as to be easilv
removed
Model
III
Basting Stitch.
when the basting threads

work.
are cnt and
drawn from
the
The thread
first
is
fastened the same as in rmining.

in
The
stitches
the
model are small, even
12
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWINCx.
basting stitches, one-eighth of an inch nnderneath bv
one-eighth
inch on top.
This method of basting

is
is
nsed for the seams of any garment that
to be fitted.
The next
is
an nneven basting stitch one-eighth

incli
inch nnderneath and one-fourth
above.
This
is
nsed for basting seams that are to be overhanded.
Then comes an uneven

one-half inch wliich
for
is
basting, one-eighth inch bv
used for basting hems or seams
machine sewing.
The next
es,
basting,
which
is
composed of three
stitch-
each one-eighth inch long and a stitch three-fourths
inch, is used for basting the
seams of
skirts,
and gives
firmness for fitting.
A
work
pupil should be taught the need of basting

it
all
work before
in
is
sewed, since basting stitches keep the
place and the line of basting should be so

it
straight that
will serve as a guide for the stitching.
MODEL
Exercise:
IV.
SEWED SEAM.
A basting; B
To
learn
sewing;
overcasting.
Object:
how
to
sew a seam.
Materials:
Two
pieces of
ISTo.
gingham or unbleached
and No. 60 thread
muslin 3 by 6 inches,
(red).
8 needle
Place the two pieces of material together and baste

one-fourth inch from the edge, using an uneven basting
Model IV
stitch.
Sewed Seam.
Sew
just below the basting, taking three or four
short running stitches
of even
length.
In the next
three
commence
it
with a back stitch by inserting the

left
needle where
the cloth in the next to the last
14
EXERCISES
IN
HAND SEWING,
Continue
is finished.
tlie
stiteli
of the previous three ruiniiiig stitches.
sewing in the same manner until the seam

Fasten the tliread as in running.
shdulfl he taught to seAV
Jn
a
this
seam
pupil
without
knot, hut to fasten
the tliread
ly
l)y
taking
oiu' stitch,
di'awing the thread near-
through the material, then taking one or two stitches

to
hack
where the
first
was
started.
Finish the seam by
overcasting the edges so that they will not fray or ravel.
Before overcasting the seam, the edges,

raveled very much,
if
they have
may
he carefully trimmed.
a
The
overcasting
is
begun with
first stitch
knot which
is
concealed
by taking the
nearest
tlie
from the inside of the piece

Beginning
at the left
seam sewed.
make made
the stitches over the
raw edge.
When
properly
the overcasting stitches should be uniform, the distance
lietween
them and the
d(']ith
l>eing the same.
MODEL
BAG.
Object:
V.
To
teach overliaiiding'.
Exercises:
iiing.
A, overlianding
B,
hLMummg;
C, inni-
Materials:
Giiigliani 5
8.
by IS inches, thread No.
70 (white), needle Ko.

First
make
a lunii
on the
to
twr>
long sides of the ging-
ham, teaching the pupil

eighth inch, creasing
it
turn over the edge one-
and then tnrn the fold down
the desired width for the
hem and
little
baste
it.
In
this
place the
hem
shonld
l)e
but a
more than one-eighth

the pn])il shonld be
at
inch in width.
When hemming
taught always to insert the needle
the
same angle
needle.
and
to take the
same quantity of material on the

the stitches should
The space between

same.
always be the
In hemming the knot can be hidden
in the
hem.
Take up
nj)
two threads of the material, slant the needle

fold.
through the edge of the

the
For the next
stitch
insert
needle very
nearly
underneath the point
where the thread

fore.
left the
material and proceed as bethree-fourths
Across the ends
make hems one and
16
EXERCISES
IN
HAND SEWING.
inches wide.
Baste the sides of the bag together and

u|)
overhand the seams
to the
wide hems.
fore-
Hold
the
work firmly between the thnmb and
finger of the left hand, never over the first finger, as
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Ml IDE
r.
Bag.
in a long
seam
<mk' side will

end.>^
be taken
np more than the
other
and the
at
tlic
will
to
come ont nnevenly.
Com-
mence
right
sew.
Pnt the needle through
both edges at
right angles with the seam and with the
point towards the seamstress.
The
stitches shonld not

a
be too far apart, too dee]), nor too tightly drawn, or
'y\\mSmsj)\\
STITCHES ON CANVAS.

ridge will be formed
qiuirter
17
when
the
seam
of
is
opened.
the
One-
inch above the
hemming
wide hems
put in a row of running stitches, thus forming a space

for the cord or tape.
easily opened, or closed,
In order that the bag
may
be
two pieces of the cord or tape

it,
are used.
it
Insert one in the space prepared for
carry
through both sides and out at the

it
same
place from
which
started.
The other cord goes

it
in on the oppo-
site side, also
coming out where

is
entered.
The
place
where the cord or tape

hem.
juined should be hidden in the
MODEL
Exercise: Object
:
VI.
THREE-COEXEKKl) DAEX.
A. dai'iiing;
]>,
loop-stitcli.
To
learii liow to
mend
a tear.
Materials:
Piece flannel 4 by 4 inches, thread
same
color as flannel, 'Xo. GO,
No.
8 needle, mercerized
spool cotton.
Cnt
th(-u wirli
a three-cornered hole in the flannel (Fig.
VI)
thread the same color draw the corners neatly
togethei-
with several rnnning stitches, holding the tear

first
firmly between the thnnd) and
finger of the left
hand,
to
prevent the edges from raveling.

to-
The corners in plac(\ draw the sides of the tear

gether in the same manner.
IJegin
darning
at
one end
to
using line i-inining stitches.

cariw
tlie
Care shonld he taken
thread the same distance from the tear, each
time, ami not to
draw
the ihrcad.
lagged edges shonld

Always darn on
wrong
the
not be cut
away but darned down.
right side, and
when
it
finished press on the
side.
If
it is
well done
can scarcely be noticed.

stitcli.
Finish the edge of the model with the loop

nsing
the
mercerized
cotton.
Bring the needle
nj)
throuiih the edo-e of the matei'ial and holding the tlii'ead
EXERCISES
(luwii
i}i
IN
HAND SEWING.
k't't
19
with the thiiinh of the
hand, insert the neecUe
the material again at the desired depth

tlie
and bring
it
ont (jver
threaih
Proceed
in the
same manner
to tlie
MODEI, vi
Three
C'okneijed I)arx.
corner where one stitch slionld come directly over the

corner,
and
in the stitch ])receding
and the one following
the needle
is
inserted in the material at the
same
point.
This
stitch is
worked
tVoni left to riolit.
^FODEL
VII
SlIKKT.
MODEL VII.
MODEL SHEET.
Exercise:
niing.
A, turning hems; B, basting; C,
licni-
Object:
To
learn
bow
to beni.
(>
Materials:
White muslin
9.
bv 10 inches.
White
thread No. 80, needle No.
Turn and
baste a
hem
one-eighth of an inch wide on
the lengthwise sides of the model.
Hem
is
these
hems
and for the top of the sheet tnrn
hem
one and one-half

one-half incli
inches wide and for the foot one that

wide.
er.
The ends
of
hems
slioidd be
overhanded togeth-
M<j|)KL
VIII
I'lLT.ow
Slip.
MODEL
Exercises:
casting; and
L),
VIII.
SLIP.
;
MODEL PILLOW
running.
A, basting; B, overlianding
C, over-
Ohjeet:
Teaching different
stitches used
on piL
low
slip.
Materials:
White
ninslin 7
by 8 inches; No. 9
needle, Xo. 80 thread.
Baste the selvedge edges together one-eighth of an

inch from the edge.
Fold back the torn edges oneIjaste as
fonrth of an inch and

these two seams
b_v
for selvedges.
Overhand
stitches
fastening with two
little
over each other.
As the beginning,
joining,
and fastening of the
thread varies in the different kinds of seams, the teacher should take s])ecial care to
have the pupil thoroughly
understand and carefully
folloAV instructions.
is
In overlianding the work

between the thund) and
first
held firmly lengthwise
linger of the left hand, but

to
never over the tinger which will cause the seam

uneven.
be
Overcast the raw edges and finish the pillow slip
with a
hem an
inch wide.
"*
8 9
-
'^
"'
"
V.
-
W-
a *
.^
^..î^'^
3
Mniii:r.
a e '*'*
I\--.\I'i;mn.
MODEL
APRON.
Exercises:
oil
IX.
A, lieinniing; B, g-athering; C, putting
band.
Object:
To
teach
i>'atliering
and putting on
7;
band.
Materials:
(wliite), needle
Gingliam
No.
9.
by
thread
No.
80
Baste and
lieni a
hem
one-eighth of an inch wide
on each side of the apron.
Across the bottom of the
apron make
hem
three-fourths of an inch deep.

it
Fold
take
the apron to tind the middle, notching
at the top,
on the needle
as possible.
at a
time as
many
small
miming
stitches
Draw
the stitches together on the needle

it
and fasten the thread by winding

eye and point of the needle.
over and under the

the gathers
Then hold
left
between the thumb and iinger of the
hand, and
the
with the other pnll each gather in place.

thread and pnll the nredle through.
needleful.
Unwind
Repeat with each

middle of the band
Place the notch
to the
and spread the
gath.ers so that they will cover a space
three and one half inches wide.
Holding the gathers

to
toward yon, baste and then half backstitch them

the band.
Fold over the band

in the edges.
so as to cover the gathers
and turn
When
basted, overhand the ends

it
and edges of the band, but hem

ers.
down
across the gath-
MODEL
Exercises:
X.
MODEL TOWEL.
A, drawing threads; B, hems; C, hemstitching; D, sewing on tape.
Object:
To
teach
how
tn
hemstitch, and sew a
tape on a toweL
Materials :
Crash or ghiss toweling

(:!0
-t
bv 7 inches,
8.
tape 3 inches, thread Xo.
(white), needle Xo.
Measnre np from the edge one and one-fonrth

es,
inch-
and with the point
ot"
the needle pick ont one of the

it
it.
coarser threads, removing
cai'cfnlly
with the right
hand, so as not to break
Six threads shoidd bo
drawn.
Make narrow hems

at
on each side of the towel
and then turn the hems
the ends, creasing the edge
one-eighth of an inch and baste them even with the
threads
tirst
drawn.
Fasten the threads in the
hem
at the left side,
and pointing the needle towards von,
take
np fonr
or live of the cross threads.
Draw
the
needle throngh and take one stitch as in ordinary hem-
ming, being carefnl not
to
is
take the stitch too deep.
Repeat
this nntil the
hem
completed.
As both edges
of the draAvn threads are to be hemstitched, repeat the
operation on the other side.
Hemstitching
is
one of the
neatest methods of hnishing the ends of towels.

Overhand
27
the ends of the tape together, a little

the hem.
more than the depth of
Place the overhand-
ing on the tape to the middle of the hem, so that the
f"fft^tifitT*f Jff ttttfTTiTTtrtt
*A04*Aii*AiA'ii*^**'^'A**"'*'**'*A|>
-J
MooKL X
Towel.
raw edges
will he
tlie
towards the end.
Stitch
it
down.
Then turn
and hem
it
tape back so as to cover the stitching

all
down
around.
This will prevent the
tape from pulling oif easily.
linen or cotton tape
should be used for towels.
MODEL
Object :
XI.
OVERHAND PATCH.
To
teaeli
how
to set in a })ateli.
;
Exercises:
castins:.
A, basting; B, overhanding
L\ over-
Model XI
Ovekhand Patch.
pie-
Materials:
ces, G
Blue cheeked gingham cut in two

?>
by
and
9.
bv 3 inches; thread No. 90 (white),
needle 'No.

Cut out of one corner
of the 6
29
a
by 6 inch piece
square 2f bv 2^ inches, then cut the corners diagonally

one-eighth of an inch.
Fold over one edge of the patch

is
and one edge where

of an inch.
it
to be joined, each one-fonrth
Place the sides together, having the folded
edges even and baste.
Overhand one
side of the patch,

in the
remove the basting and sew the other side

manner.
same
Care should be taken
to
exactly match the
checks and not to take the stitches too deep.

the
it
Press on
wrong
side
and
if
instructions are carefully followed
will not
show
wh('r(>
patch has been set
in.
Overcast
the
raw edges
of the patch.
Finish the model with a
hem on
all sides
one-eighth of an inch wide.
MODEL
Exercises:
soanis
liole;
;
XII.
DOLL'S SKIRT.
A, drafting
;
doll's
skirt;
;
B,
basting
C, sewing seams
D, overcasting
E, placket
F, gathering; G, pntting on hand; H, hem.
1/
Model XII
r>OLL's
a
Skikt.
To
required
draft a skirt for
doll
two measnroments are
the length and the width aronnd the hips.
Hip
32
the liip line.
From
measure out
to
-i
the wi<hh of
the side gore on the hip line, and
from
2 out to 5 the
width of the bottom of the side gore.
Draw
5
a line
from the top of the paper through 4

length of
tlie
to
and mark
off the
skirt,
6.
From
measure
in one-fourtli inch to 7,
and draw an outward

3.
curve to the point one and one-half inches above
Draw
curved line from the top of the second seam
to
7 for the top of the side gore,
and connect 2 and 6
with an outward curved line for the bottom.
The back
breadth should be a straight piece.
Having drafted
to place
tlie
and cut the pattern the pupil should be taught
the pattern on the material so as to waste as little of

cloth as possible.
(
*ut
the front on a lengthwise fold of the material.

is a
The back
straight piece and slKuild be cut

1
first.
The measurement from

one-fourth of an
to
')
should be reduced
inch for each
inch decrease in the
length of the doll, or increased in the

for a large
(bill.
same proportion
Baste the seams together using an uneven basting

stitch.
Make
sewed seam, sewing just below the
bast-
ing, overcasting the edges of the seam.
Cut an opening for a placket

back two and one-half inches long.
half
iiicli
in the center of the
Make
a
hem
one-
wide on the
right side
and
hem
one-eighth
of an inch wide on the opposite side, turning the

to the right side.
hem
Place the wide
hem
over the narrow
33
one and linish across the bottom with two rows of backstitehing',
one-sixteenth of an inch apart.

is
The back
gathered across the top.
Place the center of the front to the center of the

band, which for a skirt of this measurement should be
cut eleven inches long and one and one-half inches wide.
Baste the band on, holding the skirt towards you, then
sew, using the half backstitch.
the
Turn
the band over to
wrong
side thus
covering the seam,
and hem
it
down.
The ends
a
of the band should be overhanded.
Make
hem
three-fourths of an inch wide around
the bottom of the skirt.
Place a button and Imttun

t^kirt.
liole in
the band of the
MODEL
Objccl
:
XIII.
FLAXXEL PATCH.
To
learn
how
to
patch liaiineL
Exercises:
eatstitch.
Model XIII
Flanxel Patch.
Materials:
inches.
Fhiiniel squares 5
;
by
and
7.
by 2
Mercerized spool cotton
needle Xo.

Cut
35
a hole in tlie center of the hirge piece of flan-
nel one inch square.

Jiole.
Baste the patch evenly over the

it
Turn
the patch over and catstitch
on aronnd
the hole, heing careful not to leave any of the threads
of the fabric free to ravel.

just over the
If the stitches are taken

too large, the edges
raw edges and are not
of the hole or patch need not be turned in.
Finish the model arcnnid the sides with the lo^p

stitch.
MODEL
ObjccI
:
XIV.
BUTTON HOLES.
W)
learn
how
tn
make
;
bnttonlioles.
Exercises:
holes.
A,
ovci-liaiuliuii
J],
makine' button-
Material:
Strij)e(l liiniihaiii
8.
liy
5 inches, thread
No. 50 (white), needle No.

Fold the
o-iiio-hani
twice so that there will be three
thicknesses, turn in the
raw
ediês,
baste and overhand
them
togethei".
The
jtupil
slmnld
tlien
l)c
taniihr
to
tiiid
the width of
scissors
the Imttdii
and
t<)
lianuc
tlic
l)ntt()nh()le
Îduki.
XI y
]!i
riuN
ui.ii.Ks.
so that the burton lutlc Avheii cut will
Ix'
a little larger
than the bntton.

In niakinii the l)ntt()n holes
scissors to cut them, letting
tlicn-
alwavs nse buttonhole

practice
first ei-
tlie jitipil
on
paper or muslin until
slie
thoroughly under-

stands using
tlieni.
37
Overhand
is
the edges closely,
but
not any deeper than
necessary to hold the threads.
In working the hnttonhole always begin at the end fartliest
from
the
edge of the material, working from
the right towards the left, holding the Imttonhole firmly
between the tlnnnb and hrst linger of

jiiul
tlie
left
hand
parallel with the seamstress.
Insert the needle with

it
the point toward the wcn-ker, drawing
but lialfway
throngh.
Take the two threads
at the
eye of the needle
and bring them aronnd nnder the point of the needle
from right
to left.
Draw
the needle ont and pull the

to the
thread np at right angles
bnttonhole, thus form-
ing a knot, or purl, on the edge.
The next
stitch is
done in the same way.
(^^re shonld be taken to
make
each stitch exactly the same depth and the same distance
a])art.
The space between

nei'dle,
the stitches shonld be the

will leave roDUi for the purl
width of the
at
which
the edge.
When
side,
the buttonhole has been

l)y
worked across one
tnrn the end
making
several stitches close to-
gether, so that the buttonhole will be rouuded.
Con-
tinne on the other

the
first.
side,
taking the last stitch opposite

a
l)ar,
Kiuish the buttonhole with

t;iking
fou.r
which
the
is
made by
stitches
down through
first
stitch taken
aud np on the opposite side throngh the

Tliese stitches shonld he
last stitch taken.
drawn
tight-
ly so as to bring the sides close together.
Work
careful
several liuttonhole stitches over them, being

to
not
catch
into the
material.
Fasten the
38

it
thread bj bringing
throngh
to the
wrong
side
and
tak-
ing two small stitches one over the other.
The pnpil shonld

to
start
with a thread long enough

if
it
complete the buttonhole, but
is
found
to
be
too short the thread
may
be fastened on the wrong side.
A new thread
may
also be fastened in the

last purl.
same way and
brought up through the

buttonhole stitch as if a
essary,
Proceed with the

not been nec-
new thread had
A
in
child will need
more than ordinary
attention
making
a buttonhole in order that she
may
learn
the correct method.
For bands or wherever there

button, the buttonhole
is
is
much
strain on the
cut in the direction of the pull.

is little
On
the shirt waist front or where there

is
strain
the buttonhole
cut at right angles to the pull.
MODEL XV.
SEWIXG OX BUTTOXS.
Object:
To
learn
Iioav to
sew on bnttons.
;
Exercises:
A, overlianding'
B, sewing' on bnttons.
Material:
8 needle,
Ginglunn 4 by
5 incbes, 4 bnttons,
Xo.
Xo. 70 tbread (wbite).

tlie
Fold over one of tbe lengtlnvise edges of

liam, tben fold
it
ging-
twice more so as to liave tliree tbiek-
nesses of tbe material.
Baste one-eigbtb incb from tbe

small uneven Inisting stiteb and
folded edges, nsing
tben overband tbe
ed<;es.
In sewing on tbe bnttons
r>
Model XV Sewing ox Ruttoxs.
r>
draw tbe needle tbrongb

side,
tbe material
tlie
iiiub']'
from tbe
njiper
onedialf incb from
f(dded edge, so tbat tbe

tbe button.
knot
may
be concealt'd
Bring tbe
a
needle up to tbe rigbt

llie
si(b>
again and tbrongb
bolo in
l)utton.
Place
a [)iu
across tbe top of tbe button,
40

it
leaviiiii'
tliei'e
while the
l)iittoii
is
securely sewed on.

stitches
Remove
the
])in
which will loosen the

the button
and
;
brini^
the needle
up between
and material
wind
the thread several times around the stitches and fasten

it (n
the
wron
>
side.
])in
rsin<>'
the
in
this
way makes mom

is
tnv
tljc
material
when
the liarment
is
buttoned.
This method
of sewine: on a button
the one most coinmonlv used.
MODEL
Object:
XVI.
STOCKING DAENIA^G.
To
teach the method of darning hosiery.
Materials:
inet 3
VayA board 3f bv o^
Darning needle No.
inches.
Stock-
hv
-'5
inches, darning cotton, black, and

7.
same shade
as the stockinet.
iillflill
MOOEI. X\'l
StuCKI.NKT
JtAU.N.
Baste the stockinet tirmlv on the card board to prevent

its
being stretched or drawn out of shape, and cnt
the hole in a line with the stitches.
Remove
the cut
42

and run
a thread
loops,
around the
hole,
aliout
one-
fourth of an inch from the edge.
Form
the
warp
thread of the black darning cotton, which should be
very close together, by bringing the darning cotton up
through the loop stitch
at
one edge and down through

All of these stitches
the stitch on the opposite edge.
should be taken up so that they will not ravel back

after the darn
is
completed, and so that there will be
no roughness on the right side of the stockinet.

small loop of the darning cotton should
Ije
A
each
left at
end
to allow for
shrinkage in wasiiing.
When
the
warp threads
are all in, begin at the

to
lill
lower right hand side of the hole

threads, taking
in
the woof
up the alternate threads of the warp.
In the next row only those threads missed in the preceding one are taken up.
The woof threads should be put

Continue in the same
in as close together as possible.
manner
until the hole
is
filled.
Both the warp and

at
woof threads should be carried
least one-fourth of
an inch beyond the hole in the stockinet so that the

darning
may
be firm and not pull
away from
the
worn
edges of the stockinet.
MODEL
RTJÎilXG
Object:
XVII.
A^B BASTING.
miming and
basting.
G
To
teach
basting,
and
straight sewing.
Exercises:
Running and
Materials:
Unbleached or half-bleached mnslin

jSTeedle
ISTo.
by 12 inches.
8,
thread, GO
(red).
Turn
Beginning
edge,
a half inch fold across one end of the muslin.

at the right one-eighth of
a
an inch from the

stitches.
first
make
row of small even rnnning

the tlunnb and
Hold
the
work firmly between
finger of
each hand, and using as free wrist motion as possible,

take several stitches on the needle at a time.
in the
Continue
One-half
same manner
until the
row
is
finished.
inch below the
first line
of running stitches,
make
an-
other just the same.
Turn
a fold one-fourth of
an inch wide across the
other end of the model, and bring the fold

it
up
so that
will be half an inch below the last
row
hold
of running
it
stitches, basting it
with white thread
to
in place.
One-eighth of an inch below the second fold, make

a
row of even
l)asting stitches that are one-eighth of
an
inch underneath and one-eighth of an inch on top, using
44
EXERCISES
This
be
is
IN
the
HAND SEWING.
method of
bastin,i:
the red thread.
any âr-
ment that
is
to
fitted,
as
a waist or jacket.
The
;'part.
stitches being small the
seams will not stretch
One-half inch below these stitches make
row
of uneven basting stitches that are one-eis'hth of an
Model XVII^ kfnning and basting.
inch nnderncath
and
one-foiii'th
b_v
of
an
indi
on
to]).
When hems
are to be liemmed
hand or scams over

they sliould
be
handed, whether selvedge or

basted witli this stitch.
fold,
The
is
third
row
is
also
an uneven l)asring stitch and
one-eighth of an inch nnderncath and one-half of an

inch on
eighth
t(tp.
l,v
45
Following
this are basting stitches one-
tlireo-foiirths
of
an inch and one-half by

is is
one-half
<if
an inch, a crosswise basting, which
nsed
to join a
material to a lining.
tlirce-eighths of
The
last
row
comlong-
posed
stitch.
(if
an inch stitches and

is
This liasting stitch

a skirt.
(if
the best for basting the
seams of
All
witli
a
tlic
lines
of sewing on this model begin
knor on top and are finished bv taking two

s o\-er each other.
small
sfitcli!
MODEL
XVIII.
AT\"D
PKENCH SEAM, BACKSTITCHED

BACKSTITCHED SEAM.
Ohjcct :
HALF
French
To
teach the method of
making
scam and
a Back'^titched
seam.
Exercises:
ing.
Running-, backstitching and overcast-
Materials:
Unhleaclied or half -bleached mnslin
cut into three pieces, 3
bv
G inches
and
5^-
by 6 inches.
2:|-
The
latter should be folded to cut
two pieces each
by 3^ inches.
Xeedle Xo.
S,
thread 60, red.

3-|
Baste the straight sides of one of the 2] by
pieces to the 3 by 6 ])iece, basting one-eighth of an inch
from the edge and making the seam on the right

the material.
side of
Sew
the
scam with
l)aek stitch
and
two or three running

the line of basting.
ly,
stitches,
making them
just below
Having fastened
the thread secure-
remove the
tasting,
trim the seam one-eighth from

to the
stitching
it
and turn the seam
wrong
side
and sew
again,
making
first
the second
row of
stitches far
enough
below the
row
so tliat the
raw edge
will not
show
on the right
side.
For the second seam baste the
tAvo bias edges to-
EXERCISES
getlier
IN
HAND SEWING,
47
making
the line of the basting one-fourth of an
inch from the edge.
Sew
half the seam jnst below the
basting with the backstitch using a half backstitch for

the last half of the seam.
This stitch
is
similar to
'
ii /^
'
///-/'
French
Seaji
Cack-stitched
Model XVIII and Half Back-stitched
Sea.m.
the back stitch, the difference being that the needle
is
put only halfway back in the preceding

leaving a space between the stitches.
stitch,
thus
is
This stitch
48

Finish the seam by overat the left
used for sewing' on gathers.

casting the
raw edges beginning
and taking
the stitches loosely through
and over the edges.
To
niahe the stitches uniform the distance between them
and
tlie
depth should he the same.
MODEL
fellp:i) seam,
Object:
XIX.
seam.
felled
hemmed
To
learn the
method of making
and hemmed seams.

Exercises :
Sewing a seam and hemming.

Lone- cloth or anv soft bleached mus6 inches
Materials:
]iu cut
into three pieces, 3 by
and 5^ by 6
two
inches.
The
latter should be folded so as to cnt

3:j inches.
pieces each
2| by
]êedle ô.
9, thread,
white, 'No. 90.
Baste the straight side of one of the 2^ by

pieces to the 3
3:^
by 6
piece,
making
the line of basting one-
fourth of an inch from the edge.
Just below the bast-
ing sew the seam using a backstitch and several running

stitches.
Fasten the thread securely,
and trimming
the edge toward

t
you one-eighth of an inch fold the unand baste

it
rimmed
side over the cut side
down on
the material,
making
a flat seam.
It should then be
hemmed by
garment
hand, even though in the garment making
the first stitching should be done

this
by machine, for on
seam
is
usually a bias seam and

less liable to
is
when
break
easily
laundered the hand sewing will be

than
machine hemming.
This seam
more
50

French seam and
is,
laiiiulered than the
therefore, bet-
ter for
most nndergarments.
MODKL XIX
Felled
Seaji.
Hemmed
Seam.
In making the hemmed seam, place the bias edge

of the third piece overlapping the bias edge of the other one-fonrth of an inch
and baste throngh the
center.
Then
crease an^l
hem
alike dh l)0th sides.
k]iot slionld
be nsi'd in these seams and finished

])y
51
fastening with
two
small
stitches
one over the
other.
In the backstitching the

the
stitches should all be of
same length and when finished the
stitching should
look like machine sewins; on the ri^ht side.
MODEL XX.
OVERHANDIXG.
Object:
To
learn overbanding.
Exercises:
lace.
Overhandino;, hemming' and sewing on
McpDKI.
XX
OVERHANDING.
Materials:
Long
cloth, or
any
soft bleached nii:s-

]iii,
53
cut in two pieces each o

side.
by
7 inches,
0,
with the
sel-
vedge on one
9 inches.
!^[eedle
No.
thread No. 90, lace
Baste the selvedge edges together one-eighth of
an inch from the edge, nsing the one-eighth by onefonrth basting.
Beginning
at the right,
overhand the
two edges together.
If the stitches are taken too deep
long stitches will appear on the right side
when
the
too
seam
is
opened ont
flat.
They should not be made

too tight or
close together or
drawn
a ridge will be
formed.
Make
hem an
eighth of an inch wide on the
two long sides of the model and an inch hem across

one end.
wide.
Hem
the ends of lace one-eighth of an inch

lace
Find the middk' of the
and pin
it
to the
middle of the model.

edge of the model.
Pin the end of the
lace to the
Quarter both lace and model and
pin those points together.

until the divisions have
Continue in the same way
become
(piite
small.
it
Then,
holding the lace toward you, overhand

the needle through eacli
on, putting
lace.
mesh
in the
educ of tbe
MODEL
Object:
XXI.
FACED AND EXTENSION HEMS.

To
learn tho method of
making faced and
extension hems.
iA
Model XXI
Faced and Extension Hems.
Exercises:
Turning hem and hemming.
Materials:
lin,
Long
cloth or very soft Ideached
mus-
cut into three pieces, two of

2 inches; needle
them
l)y 4,
the other
by
No.
0,
thread No. 90, wliite.

Place the long edge of the two 6 by 4 pieces
getlier, baste
55
to-
and sew, nsing two running
stitches
and
a backstitch.
Scav the smaller piece on the opposite side
for a faced
hem and
press the
seam open,
to
make
it
turn easily.
Make
hem an
eighth of an inch wide
on the two long sides of the model.
For
the extension
hem
hem.
fold over the edge of the larger piece one-eighth

it
of an inch and baste
on
line with the

a
seam and
For the faced hem turn
fold on the edge of
the small piece one-eighth of an inch wide and fold the piece over on the center piece, turning
it
on the
seam
baste and
hem
it
down.
MODEL
Object
:
XXII.
MODEL TOWEL.
To
teach double hemstitching and sew-
ing on of tapes.
Exercises:
Hemming and
hemstitching.
8,
Materials:
Crash. 4^ by 8 inches, needle No.

1.
thread 'Xo. 80 (white), linen tape size 'No.
One and
threads which
one-half inches
is
from the ends draw

to
six
the correct
number
be drawn
in all
materials to be hemstitched.
Before hemstitching the
ends of the towel,
hem
the sides with a narrow hem.

it
Then turn
hem on
first
the ends of the towel, basting
even with the
thread drawn.
in the
Fasten the thread
hem
at the left side
and
five
pointing the needle towards yon, take up fonr or

of the cross threads.
Draw
the needle through and
take one stitch, as in ordinary hemming, being careful
not to take the stitch too deep.
Repeat
this, until the
hem
is
completed.
Since both edges of the drawn
threads are to be hemstitched, repeat the operation on

the other side.
Fold the tape and overhand the sides together from

llie
ends,
np
to the de])th
of the hem.
57
Sew
cing
it
the tape on the
wrong
side of the towel, pla-
so that the
raw edges
Avill
be towards the end,
.vMi-.-vv\\v\\\v.nv\vuv\\\\vuv.\ut\utmu\nmHuu"
.%\jvv:jc*
L.' .>..'.'
'îîVtV-'A?*
nModel XXII
Towel.
and
stitch it on.
'I'hen
tnrning the tape back so as
to
S3

tlie
cover
will
stitching,
it
hem
it
down on each
side.
Tliis
make
strong and not easily pulled
off.
A
hand.
flat
loop should be sewed on a jacket or skirt

of the tape should be turned under
The ends
and hemmed down.
row of back stitching made

from the ends,
woolen or
silk
across the tape, one-eighth of an inch

will
make
is
the tape
more durable.
tape
best for dresses.
MODEL
Object:
jind
ruffle.
XXIII.
ROLLED AND HEMSTITCHED HEMS.

To
learii
the
method of making
rolled
a
hemstitched hems,
gathering and
putting on
Exercises:
Ilemminii,',
hcmstitchinii",
ffatherinff
and baekstitehing.
Materiah:
lin
Long
cloth or
any
soft bleached
mus-
by 7
inches.
For the
ruffle,
the
same material
by li
inches.
Xeedle Xo. 10, thread No. 100.
The
sides of this
is
model are finished with

rolling the edge
a rolled
hem, which
terial
made by
the
as
of the maof
lietween
lienniiing
forefinger and thund)

rolled,
the left
hand,
stitch.
using the plain
hemming
and crease
Measure up
five-eighths of an iucli,
for a tuck.
Baste a tuck three-sixteenths of an inch
wide, and back stitch on the right side,

line of stitches just
making
the
below the basting.
For
the ruffle, measure
up
five-eighths of
an inch
from the edge and draw

hem.
^lakc
a rolled
six threads for a hemstitched
hem on
tlie
the two ends of the
ruffle,
ruffle,
then baste and hemstitch

take as
hem.
To gather
the
manv
small runniuii'
stitclics
on the needle
at a
60
EXERCISES
J
IN
HAND SEWING.
stitelies
toiietlier
time ns possible.
needle,
:n:(l
)raw the
in
on the
liold
them
])hiee
bv
Avindinii' the tliread
''-
i
Model XXIII Rolled and Hemstitched Hems.
over and niider the eye and
])(int
of the needle.
Then
hold
left
tlie
iialhei-s
l)etween the tluimb and hnger of the

})nll
hand, and with the other
each gather in place.
Unwind
the tliread, and pull the needle through.
Con-
tinne in the same
manner
until the rnffle

l)e
is
gathered.
All garments slionld

fore ])ntting on the
divided into fourths, beIf the
rntHiini'.
rntHe
is
also di-

vicleJ
site
ill
till'
61
snuu'
way and
tlic
divisions placed oppo-
each
otluM',
the fullness will be evenly divided.
In
bastini;- a
rnlHe on a i;arnient, always hold the
fullness t(nvards you, then sew on the line of "'athcrs
with a half hack-stitch.

the tuck
Turn
the
seam up, and haste
down over
it,
then backstitch.
tie,'
Ivnffles ])ut
on with
tnck are
much more
serv-
iceable
and lar.ndry better than those with the
finishiug;
braid or facinii.
.M(lI>KL
XXIV rilKXCII
liEM.S.
MODEL
Object:
XXIV.
ERE^s^CH HEM.
To
learn the
method of
lieiiiniiiig
tabic
damask.
Exercise : Overhanding.
Materials:
Damask
5^ Ly 6 inches; needle No.
0,
thread lô. 80 (white).
Fold a hem on two adjoining sides of the damask,
from one-eighth
to three-sixteenths of
an inch wide,
ac-
cording to the qnalitj of the linen.
Before beginto-
ning to
hem open
ont the hem, and fold the corner

it
wards yon, creasing

of the point
off the
one-eighth of an inch ontside
where the creases of the hems meet.
Cut
at the
corner on the crease, then fold the
hem
right of the bias edge.
Then, holding the wrong side

crease the material
towârd yon, fold the

so as to
hem back and
make
it
even with the hem.
Overhand
the fold-
ed edges together, being carefnl not to take the stitches

too deep into the cloth, tlins preventing long stitches
on the right
side.
Turn
1)ias
the
hem on
to
the second side
and fold nnder the

down.
edge on the corner and
hem
it
Continue in the same way
overhand the
re-
maining hems on the model.
MODEL
COR^Tp^KED
Object:
XXV.
TIIREE-
MEMS ON WOOI.KX .MATERIALS AND
DARK
liciiiiiiiiii;'
To loam
and liow
1
l)liii(l
iuid
the
slip
stitch hcniiuinii-,
to inriid a tear.
daniiiii;'
oi-
Exercises:
Iciiiniiiiii',
and the hiop
stitch.
Materials:
inches.
Blue
Alhati'oss
Henrietta 41 hy S
spnol
twist
letter
Spool silk letter
"A" ami
^'D/' the
same shade
as the material.
JXeedles, Nos.
10
and
S.
Fold over the material one

ihe
riiilit
I'oui'tli
(d'
an
;i
inch to
side and haste
ii
down, then
th(>
told
hem one
inch
with', hastina; not onlv

l'(dd.
ednc df ihe hem hnt

the stitehes slionld
also the
To mak(>
hlind
hem
he taken so tliev Would not
show.
To do
this take
up
one or two threads

the
(d'
the mateiaal and hel'oi'e drawinii,'
needle
tliron<:li
taki'
up one-jniirth of an inch
in
not-
the fold,
l(.
('nntinue in this manner, heini^ eai'elnl

the threads liiihtlv.
is
draw
(d'
The hem on
stileli
the opposite
is
end
hv
the nio(h'l
the
sli])
hem, winch
to
maile
tirst
folding o\-er
(d'
the
material
il
the wroni;' side

a
one-eiirhth
an
inch and haste

haslini!,
it
down, then turn

Inr
a
hem
on<'
it,
inch
wide,
as
hiimi
hem;
to
hem
take up <ine thread of the
idolli
then one of the
EXERCISES
IN
HAND SEWING.
llicii
65
fold a little rartlicr ahead,
of
tlic
clolh, dr.
th(^
k'ccp
iii-
the stitches in line with the tliread of

st(>a(l
(tf
material
diagonally.
This hem
is
used on woolen
nia-
iMui.i;i.
\,\v
KKMS MN
Wool. ion MATKItlAI.S AND TlIKIOK
Colt.N
lOltKTl
I)AltN.
terials
side.
where the
stitelies
arc not
In
show on the
rii^lit
It is often nsed in hcmmiiiii,' silk or velvet.
Finish the two sides of the model with the loop

stiteh.
66

In the center of the model cut an opening one and
one-fourth inches each way, brinijino; the two cuts at

right angles to each other.
First
draw
tlie
corners together, tlien holding the
edges iirndv run them together (see corner and top of

illustration), using the
Avai'])
(if
the
same material
as
that being darned.
After drawing the edges of the tear together begin

at the
bottom
to darn.
Ragged edges should not be trimstitches over
med, but weave the

fold
and under
so as to
down
each torn thread, being careful not to
draw
the thread very tight, and thus cause the darn to be-
come puckered.
When
if
it
finished press the darn on the
wrong
noticed.
side
and
is
well done
it
can scarcely be
Great care should be taken
to
have the needle and
thread used for darning proportioned to the thickness

of the material to be darned.
Always darn on
the right
of tlie
side of the material, and if possible use the
warp
material
beini>'
darned.
MODEL
XXVI.
GATHEEING AND GAUGING AND PUTTING ON A BAND.

Object:
To
learn the method of gathering, gaug-
ing and putting on a band.

Exercises:
Hemming,
Long
gathering,
gauging,
half
backstitching and overhanding.
Materials:
lin,
cloth or
any
soft
bleached mus-
cut in three pieces, the large piece being 5^ by 5^

l;f
inches and the bands 2| by 1^ inches and 1^ by

inches.
Needles Nos. 8 and 0; thread No. 90 (white).

the two long sides of the model with a very
;
Hem
narrow hem
then gather one end.
Fold over the ends
of the band one-eighth of an inch.
Pin the gathered
end of the model
to the
band and draw up the gathering

Baste and
thread so that both will be the same width.

half backstitch the gathers in place
side
;
fold the opposite baste
of the band
it
down over
the gathers,
and
of
hem
the
down on
the line of stitching.
The ends
band should be overhanded.
The other end

two
roAvs
of the
model
is
gauged by making
one-eighth of an
of stitches one-eiglith
l)y
inch and one-sixteenth of an inch apart, the stitches of

the second row beins; exactlv beloAv those of the
first.
68

first
The
edo-e.
row should be one-fourth of an inch from the

in the second
Put
row of
stitches before
draw-
Model
XXVI
is
Gathering and Gauging and Putting on a Band.
iug Up to
fit
the baud,
which
put on in the same
niaunor as for the gathering.
MODEL XXVII
GUSSETS.
Object:
ing.
To
learn
lio^v to
put
a gusset in
an open-
Exercises:
Hemming and
Long
cloth or
overhanding.
Materials :
lin,
any
soft bleached
mus-
cut in three pieces, the large one being 6^ by 6
inches,
inches.
the gussets being 2 by
inches,
14-
by 1^
Fold the large piece lengthwise into three equal

parts, cutting the openings
on the fold two and one-half
inches in length.
Hem
the openings with
hems
one-
eighth of an inch wide at the top, graduating them

so that at the
end where the gussets are

hem.
to
be inserted
the
hems
will be as fine as a rolled
Crease each side of the smaller square one-eighth

of an inch and fold so as to
baste.
form
a half square
and
Beginning
at the point,
overhand both sides of
the gusset in the opening.
This gusset
is
used for finishing the under arm
seams of night
shirts.
For the other
gusset,
crease
two adjoining sides of the larger square one-eighth of

an inch.
Insert the folded corner in the opening, and
70

Fold the
overhand both sides of the gusset halfway up.

gusset over to the
wrong
side
and
crease.
Hold
in
place with the needle or a few basting stitches, so that

the middle falls over the point of the gTisset, and cut
off the
point of the square rounding.
Turn under
the
MODIOI,
XX VI
(iU.SSETS.
edge and baste to the material, stitching the gusset so

that
is
it
will
fit
smoothly.
Hem
it
down.
This gusset
used in the drawers placket.
The
on
all
]nodel should be finished with a narrow
hem
four sides.
MODEL
Object:
XXVIII.
SKIKT PLACKETS.
To
learn
how
to
make
any
plackets in skirts.
Exercises:
Hemming
Long
and backstitching.
soft bleached
Materials:
lin,
cloth or
mns-
cnt in three pieces, the large one being 5^ by 6
inches,
and
l)y
.the placket
facing f by 2^ inches, and Ij

0,
inches
2^ inches.
Xeedle Xo.
thread
]Nô.
90.
For the hemmed placket cnt an opening one-third

of the "vvidth of the material
from the edge and two and
one-fonrth inches in length.
On
the left side
make
hem
the
that
is
one-half of
side
an inch wide.
The hem on
other
of the
placket shonld be tnrned to the right side of the model,

or garment, and shonld be one-eighth of an inch wide.
Place the wide
hem
over the narrow one, and finish at
the bottom with two row^s of backstitching, one-eighth of an inch a])art.
If the narrow
hem
is
tnrned
to the right side, the

is
raw edge
placket
is
at the
bottom of the placket
avoided.
This
nsed on cotton garments.

placket
is
The remaining
made by sewing
the one
and one-fonrth inch piece
to the
opening, bringing the
seam
to the
wrong
side
and folding the piece over and
72
EXERCISES
it
IN
HAND SEWING.
making
hemming
down on
the line of stitching, thus
an extension
hem
for the under portion.

to the
For the upper,
sew the f by 2^ inch piece
edoe of the opening.
Model XXVIII
Skirt Plackets.
with the seam on the right side, fold Ijaek on the line of
stitching, turn
under the edges and hem down.
Finish the placket by

the right.
hemming
the left side under
The model should be

four sides.
finished with a narrow
hem on
all
MODEL
^
XXIX.
SLEEVE PLACKET.
To
learn
Object:
how
to
put the placket in
shirt or shirt waist sleeve.
Exercises:
Hemming and
backstitching.
X'
Model XXIX
Sleeve
Placket.
soft bleached
Materials:
lin.
Long
cloth or
any
mns-
Cut in three
jueces, the large
one being 5^ by 6
9,
inches, the other, 1|
by
2-J
inches.
Needle No.
thread
No. 90.
74

Fold the material into two equal
parts,
and on
Finish
side.
the fold cut an opening for the sleeve placket.

the opening with a
narrow extension for the under
For the upper,
stitch the short side of the
piece to
the opening Avith the seam on the right side, crease open
the
seam and fold the piece over
so that
the pointed
part wdll he on the right side of the model or sleeve.
Fold under the edges and backstitch
it
to the material,
keeping the line of stitching close to the edge.
Finish
the placket with two rows of backstitching about one
inch below the point, the roAvs being one-sixteenth of an
inch apart.
Finish the model with a narrow

sides.
hem on
all
four
MODEL XXX.
ILITEKED COKNER.
Object:
(;orner
To
learn the
method
of
making
a mitered
and decorative
stitches.
Exercises:
Catstitched hem, chain stitch, French
knots and loop stitch.
Materials:
Gray
flannel,
(
by 7 inches.
Spool
white silk, lio. A, spool 1) twist
white),
lêedles ]ôs.
10 and
8.
Cnt
a piece of flannel 7 inches sqnare
and fold the

fold,
a
opposite corners together,
and cnt on the
thns
making
trne bias of one side.
Fold and baste
hem
three-fonrths of an inch wide, on the two adjoiningstraight sides, mitering the corner.
That
is,
after creas-
ing the hems, open them ont and cnt off the corner oneeighth of an inch outside of the point where the creases
of the
hem
meet.
Then
fold the
hems
again, baste
It
is
and
catstitch the bias corner
and the hem.
best to
catstitch flannel hems, without turning
under the edges,

Finish the
thus avoiding the ridge
made by
the fold.
bias edge with the loop stitch, and chain stitch along
the
hem on
Make
the right side.

a roAV of
French knots half an inch above
76
the loop stitch.
To make them, draw
the needle and
thread through to the right side of the flannel, and take
one short stitch without drawing the needle through.
Then taking
the two threads at the eye of the needle

left,
bring them around from right to
casting one or
Model
XXX
Miteeed Corner.
to
more
sired.
stitches
on the needle according
the size de-
Draw
the needle through, holding the stitches
firmly with the
thumb
of the left hand.
Put the needle
hack through the material at the same point at which

it
was brought up.
Several knots can be
made without
fastening the threads.
MODEL
Object:
XXXI.
STEIPES.
MATCHING OF
To
Exercises:
teach the matching of stripes.
Overhanding and overcasting.
Model XXXI Matching of Stripes.
Materials:
Blue and white striped gingham.
Cnt
78

two of them being 2 5 by C inches, one
2|-
in 5 pieces,
by
2.J
inches, the other
2^ by 4| folded and cut on a true

pieces.
bias thns
making two
Xeedle ô. 10; thread
(Avhite) 100.
To match
stripes
on
bias.
Fold over the two
bias edges one-fonrth of an inch, baste

so
as
to
them together
match the
stripes
and overhand the folded
edges.
To match
stripes crosswise.
Fold over the straight

one end of the 2^
ex-
end of one of the bias
pieces, also
by 2^ pieces and baste the folded edges together,

actly
matching the
stripes.
Overhand
this
seam
also.
To match
the stripes lengthwise.
Fold over each
side of the piece already joined, also one side of each of
the 2^ by G inch pieces.
Baste one of these to each side
of the
first piece,
exactly matching the stripes and over-
hand the seam.
Overcast
all
of the seams and around
the edge of the completed model.
MODEL XXXIL
OVEEHAND PATCH.
Object:
Exercises
To
:
teach
how
to set in a patch.
Overhanding and overcasting.
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XXXII
OVEKHAND PATCH.
wliite
Materials:
Bhie and
even checked ging-
8U
EXERCISES
IN
HAND SEWING.
ham, cut in two Needle No. 10

;
pieces,
6x6 inches, and 5x5 inches.
thread (white) No. 100.
For
setting in a patch, the patch shonhl be cut
one-lialf inch
larger than the hole,
which should be
square or oblong.
Cut the corners of the hole diagCrease one edge of the

it is
onally one-eighth of an inch.
patch and the side of the hole where
to be joined.
Place the right sides together, having the folded edges
even and the checks exactly matched.
Baste and overthe basting,
hand that side of the patch.
Remove
crease and overhand the remaining side in the
same
way.
Overcast both sides of the seam and also around
the edge of the model.
MODEL
HEMMED
Object:
patch.
I ill Pli i imiH
XXXIII.
PATCH.
a
To
teach the method of putting on
1 1i I i I
*T*I*1 Pi Pil i'^''i 'î r*
Model XXXIII
Hemmed Patch.
overcasting.
Exercises:
Hemming and
Materials:
Pink and white
striped gingham, cut
82

two pieces Gx6 inches and 5x5 inches.
Xeedles
iu
No. 10.
Thread (white)
lô. 100.
In making
a lieninicd patch, cut the
patch one inch
larger than the hole.
The
of
an.
corners shonhl be cnt diagonally one-eighth
inch.
Place the patch on the wrong side and

lap.
baste
through the center where the two edges
Fold nnder the right side one-eighth of an inch and

hem.
Tnrn under
the edge of the patch the same

all
way
and hem.
Overcast the model

is
around the
sides.
This patch
nsed where
etc.
lioth sides of a
garment,
are to be seen, as a sheet,
If there are checks or
figures in the material they should exactly
match in
any of the
patclies.
MODEL
Object:
XXXIV.
FLANNEL SEAMS.
To
teach
how
to
make scams on
flannel
and how
to finish
hems and raw edges on

Seaming, hemming,
flannel.
Exercises:
overcasting,
stitch.
the
catstitch, loop stitch,
and the feather
Materials:
of
White
flannel cut in three pieces,
two
them 2^x8
inches, the other
2^x8
inches.
Binding
ribbon, 8 inch.
silk)
Needles, Nos. 8 and 10; thread (white
A,
twîst
D.
In making the flannel seams baste the 2;jx8 pieces

each side of the 20x8 inch pieces, making the seams
three-sixteenths of an inch wide.
Sew
the seams with
the silk thread using a back stitch and two runningstitches.
Press the seams open.
The Dorothy seam,

is
which
is
used on flannels for infants,
made bv
coverit
ing a seam with narrow ribbon or silk tape.
Baste
down on each
side
and hem.
Finish the other seam with a row of catchstitching
through the middle, using the twist.

edges of the seam wdth the silk thread.
Overcast the
Finish around
three sides of the model with the loop stitch, turning

the corners nicely.
On
the unfinisbed end turn
up an
84
EXERCISES
lieiu
IN
HAND SEWING.
and catstitching
inch
to
the Avroiic; side, hasting"
Model XXXIV
it
Flannel Seams.
down.
Feather stitch across the
hem on
the right
side.
MODEL XXXV.
BUTTON HOLES.
Object:
To
teach liow
to
make button
some
holes.
Exercises:
Overhaiiding and bntton-holing.
Materials:
lin,
Long
cloth or
soft bleached
;
mus-
4^x5
inches.
ISTeedles,
No. 10
thread
(white)
ô. 80.
Fold the muslin lengthwise,

thicknesses,
so as to
make
three
in
and overhand the edges together.
Turn
the edges, baste
and overhand them together.
In making button holes, always use button hole

scissors to cut them.
Overhand the edges
closely, not
taking in any deeper than necessary to hold the threads.
Model
XXXV
Buttonholes.
far-
Li working a button hole, always begin at the end

thest
from the edge of the material, working from the

left.
right towards the
Insert the needle with the point

it
towards you, drawing

the
but half
way
through.
Take
two threads
at the
eye of the needle, and bring them
86

rig-lit
around from
the needle.
to left, ])assing'
under the point of
Draw
the needle out so that the thread
will he at right angles
from the button

In the
hole,
forming a
knot or
]iurl
on the edge.
first
position, the
it
needle points towards the worker;

points in the opposite direction.
in the second,
When
the button hole
has been worked across one side, work several stitches

close together, so that the button hole wnll be
rounding
with
at
a
the end.
bar, wliieli
Work
is
across the other side
and
finish
made by drawing
the needle
down through
it
the
first
button hole stitch taken, bringing
up on the
opposite side, through the last button hole stitch.
Draw
the stitch tightly, so as to bring the sides close together.
Make
four of these stitches, then, In-inging the needle

I)utton hole stitches
under them, work four
on them.
Draw
the needle
down through
the cloth close to the
puid of the last stitch, and fasten on the
wrong
side.
In working a button hole,
if
the thread seems too short,
pull the needle through the hole,

tightly on the
and fasten the thread
wrong
side, close beside the last stitch.

side,
Fasten the new thread on the wrong

needle up through the last purl.
button hole stitch as
essary.
if a
bringing the
Proceed with the

nec-
new thread had not been
MODEL XXXVI.
FASTENINGS.
Object:
To
teach
how
to
to
sew on buttons and

hôps and ej'elets.
button-holing*.
hooks and eyes, and hoAv

Exercises: Materials:
make
Overhaudiiii;'
and
Albatross or Henrietta, 3^x5 inches;

three luittons, a large
lioles,
a strip of lining, l4:x44 inches;
and
small one, each with four
and
medium
1.
sized one with
two holes;
two hooks and eyes, No.

silk, letter
Needles, Nos. 8 and 10;
A, twist D.
Place the lining on the wookui nuiterial, so that

one side will come
to the center of the piece,
and baste
MuDEL XXXVI
it
Fastenings.
all
in place.
Fold over the edges ^ of an inch

Place
a
around
so that
and baste them down.
hook
at the
end
the curve of the neck will be even with the edge

it
and sew
on firmly, taking the
stitches over
and over through
the riuiis and across the shank close to the turn.
88

Half an inch from the hook sew on an eye in the
same manner, taking the

across each side of the
stitches
through the rings and

eye.
body of the
Fold over the
material bringing
it
up under the hook and even with

Baste and overhand the
a
the opposite side of the cloth.
two edges together.
Hooks and eyes on
garment that
are to be covered are sewed on in this way.
One-half inch from the eye already sewed on, place

aîother
hook and button-hole
it
on.
The curve
of the
is
neck should be placed even with the edge.
The eye
placed one-half inch from the hook and buTr(ni-h(lod
all
around,
as
illustrated.
is
This method
of
putting on
hooks and eyes
used wlien they are to be used on the
outside of a garment, or where they will show.
A loop
eye.
is
used on a garment
to take the place of
an
They
are
made by taking
six stichcs, one-fourth
of an inch in length, for a foundation on
which the
loop stitch should be closely W()rked, the twist or ])url
being drawn
to the outside
edge of the loop.
To
fasten
the thread, l)ring the needle

close beside the last stitch
down
tlirouiili
the material
and fasten on the wrong side

Loojjs arc also
with several stitches over each other.

often
made with
The
eyelet
the button-hole stitch.

is
I'oniid
hole inade in the uiatcrial
with
stiletto.
Overliaml the hole closely with twist,
the stitch being firmly
drawn up
to
strengthen the edge
of the hole and keep
it
well open and in shape.
Work
The
the eyelet with the loo]) stitch
from
left to right.
thread should
in button-hole
l)e
fastened on the under side the same as
making.
MODEL
Object:
XXXVII.
STOCKINET DAKNIKG.
To
teacb. the
method of darning
hosiery.
Materials:
Cardboard, S^xSJ inches;
stockinet,
3x3 inches
darning cotton same shade as the stock-
MoDEL XXXVII
inet;
Stockinet Darning.
darning needle, No.

as the
7.
This model
is
made
the
same
model on page 41, except the warp and
Avoof are the
same
color.
90

Baste the stockinet firmly on the cavlhuard to pre-
vent
its
being stretched or drawn ont of shape, and cnt

a
the hole in
line
with the stitches.
Keniove the cnt
loops and rnn a thread aronnd the hole about one-fonrth
of an inch
from the
edge.
Form
the
warp
threads,
which should be very
close together,
by bringing the
one edge
All
darning cotton up through the loop
stitch at
and down through the
stitch
on the opposite edge.
of these stitches should be taken
up
so that they will
not ravel bacdv after the darn
is
completed, and so that
there will be no roughness on the right side of the stockinet.

left
small loop of the darning cotton should be
at each
end
to
allow for shrinkage in washing.
When
taking
the Avarped threads are all in begin at the lower

fill
right-hand side of the hole to

U]) the
in tlie
woof threads,
In the
alternate threads of the warp.
next row
only those threads missed in the j^receding one
are taken up.
The woof threads should be

Continue in
this
i)ut
in as
close together as possible.
same man-
ner until the hole
is
filled.
Both the warp and woof
threads should be carried at least one-quarter of an inch
beyond the hole in the stockinet,
so
that
tlie
the dai'ning
may
be firm and not
])ull
away from
worn edges of
the stockinet.
MODEL
DAMASK
Ohjccl
:
XXXVIII.
DAK^TING.
mend
r)x5
To
Icai'ii
liow to
table linen.
Materials:
floss,
Ada
canvas,
inches;
mercerized
olive or Xile green.
Model XXXVIII
Damask
Darninc;.
tlic tliread.-i
Overcast the edges of the canvas, with

of the warp.
Then count
in
from
the edge twelve holes,
jmtting
tlu^ ri(M>dlo
through each hole.
Find the
twclftli
92

from the opposite side and put the needle down
it,
hole
throngh
np through
the next
and
so
on
to the edge.
This will leave long stitches across the center of the

square, which should be not too tightly drawn.
stitches represent the
in the
These
warp threads
mended.
that
would be put
garment
to be
Continue putting in the warp threads until there

are only twelve holes left at the side.
To
fill
in the
woof threads, carry the needle through
each hole in the canvas to the warp threads, then take
up two threads in the

ing until the
first
row, then over two, continu-
row
is
completed, carrying the threads
through each hole in the canvas to the edge, returning

in the
same manner.
twô threads
still
In the next row there are

length, one a little longer,
the
same
In
and another
longer.
weaving in the second row, take up one of the shortest

threads and the one next to the longest
longest
until
;
then over the
and one of the

darninois
shortest, continuing in this wây
llie
finished.
MODEL XXXIX.
stocki:ntet
Object:
web darning.
Dark
red
To
teach the weave as in knitting.
Materials:
saxony.
Cardboard, 3^x3^ inches.
Dark
needle,
red knitting- silk or mercerized cotton.

ISTo.
Darning
Y.
Across the top of the cardboard prick

holes half an inch
row of
from the edge and one-eighth of an

the opposite side of the cardboard
of holes, the
inch apart.
On
make another row

edge,
same distance from the

There should
and
onc-eightli oi an inch apart.
be a second row one-eighth of an inch below this one,

the holes being opposite the others.
To weave
in the
silk
warp
threads, begin at the bottom

first
and bring the
thread up through the
hole of the second row, and
down through
top.
the
first
one in the row of holes at the

at the top
Then up through the second hole

the
first
and
down through
one in the second row at the

it,
bottom, then up through the one next to
thus nndving
last ones
two threads in each hole except the

at the top.
first
and
Continue weaving in the warp in Ihe same
manner
until all the holes are filled.
Put
in the
first first
row of loops by bringing
the yarn
up through the
hole in the bottom row; around
94
EXERCISES
first
IN
HAND SEWING.
the
two warp threads and hack down througli the
same
the
hok'.
Then
U]) tlirou,i;li
the second hole, around
warji
threads and doM-n
through the same hole.

across the card.
Coiitiiinc in the
same nnmner
After
Model XXXIX
Stockixkt
Wkk Darning.
needle will he on the wrong-
makino- the
side.
]>('
last loop the
'I'o
weave
in the Avarp threads the

si(h'
saxony shonld
This
is
lironght to the right
of the card.
done
h_v
hringing the thread over the side of the card and up

the first loop.
in the
tlii'oiigh
Weave
woof
h\-
])ntting the needle
aronnd
95
two of the warp threads, down through the loop, up

through the next one, and so on across the darning.
turning, bring the needle
In
then
up through the
first loop,
around the
loop,
this
first
two Avarp threads, down through the

Continue in
and around the two warp threads.
manner
until the darning
is
is
finished.
If this method of darning
carefully followed in
stock-
mending
silk
underwear or the knees of children's
ings, it will never be noticed

filled in.
where the piece has been
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.

(1)
When
?
sewing"
from which direction should
the light come
If possible
it
should come from the
left, so
that the
work
wdll not be shaded
by the right hand.
(2)
What
is
correct position in sewing?

sit
The pupil should

desk,
straight with the table or

it
and just far enough from
so that she can lean
against the back of the chair.
(3)
'No,
Should the work ever be pinned

because
position.
it
to the
knee
is
injurious for a child to
sit
in a
cramped
hands much.
(4)
basket
?
The work should be held up
in the
so that the
head need not be bent forward too
What
articles for
sewing should be in a work
Shears, pins, needles, tape-line, beeswax, thread,
emery, and thimble.

(5)
scissors
?
What
is
the diiference between shears and
If they are six inches long or over they are shears
under that
(6)
sors.
size
they are scissors.

the diiferent kinds of shears
Name
and
scis-

Straight shears and bent shears
sors
;
97
button-hole
scis-
and embroidery
(7)
scissors.
What
is
a tape
measure?
piece of tape with inches and parts of inches

it,
marked on
(8)
line
i
and
it
is
used for measuring.

is
Into what parts
an inch divided on a tape-
Into halves, quarters, and eighths.

(9)
How many
For what
inches in a yard?
Thirty-six.
(10)
is
the
emery
ball
used
To
clean the needle.
(11)
What
is
a needle?
small piece of steel wire, pointed at one end and

at the other to receive the thread.
having an eye
(12)
How many
needles in a paper?
Twenty-five.
(13)
How
do needles number?
From
finest.
1 to 12, I's being the largest
and 12's the
(14)
What
W^hy
are the different kinds of needles?
Sharps, ground downs, and betweens.
(15)
is a
thimble used?
To push
(16)
the needle through the work easily.
Of what
materials are thimbles

celluloid.
made
Silver, gold,
ahmiinum, and
(17)
How
long should a needleful of thread be?
As long
as the arm.
98

(18)
How
should the thread be removed from
the S}3ool
It should be cut.
Biting
it
injures the teeth, and
breaking
(19)
it
makes the end uneven.
How How
is
thread numbered?
The higher
(20)
It is
the
is
number
the finer the thread.
silk thread
numbered
numbered by
letters,
00
being the
truest,
then O, A, B, C, and D.
(21)
What
is
thread
made from
flax called?
Linen thread.
(22)
What
is
thread
made from wool

paper?
called?
Yarn.
(2.3)
How
What
man}' pins in
360.
(24)
is
cloth?
silk.
Fabric woven from cotton, wool, linen, or

(25)
How
are fabrics
woven?
By
side,
placing threads lengthwise in a loom side by
and then running in another thread crosswise

first
over and under the
ones,
from edge
to
edge and
back again. (26)

'Plic
What
warp.
are the lengthwise threads called?
(27
What
woof.
are the crosswise threads
calle<l
The
(28)
Which
?
are the stronger, the
warp
or the
woof threads

The warp
threads,
99
because they must bear the

in.
strain of having the
woof threads woven

the selvedge?
(29)
What
is
is
The selvedge
is
the finished lengthwise edge which
made by
forth.
the woof threads, as they are
woven back
and
(30)
Why should materials

?
always be cut through
the selvedge and not torn
The warp threads being
laid closer together at the
selvedge, for strength, the material
might be torn down
the side.
(31)
cotton
?
What
are
some of the materials woven from
Muslin, prints, gingham.

(32)
It
is
What
is
wool?
a variety of hair or fleece
which
is
shorn from
goats,
sheep, the Angora, Alapaca,
and Cashmere
and
furnishes the most important material for clothing in

all cold
and temperate climates.
(33)
What
are some of the materials
made
of
wool?
Broadcloth, cashmere, serges, and cheviots.
(34)
What
ie
linen?
It is a thread or cloth
made wholly from
the fibre
of flax or
lint.
(35)
What
are
some of the linen materials?
Linen, lawn, damask.
(36)
What
is
silk?
It is a soft, fine thread
spun by the
silk
worm.
LofC.
100

(37)
What
are some of the silk materials?

satin,
Gros grain, grenadine, brocade,

(38)
and snrah.
How
are twilled goods
woven?
Instead of taking nji the threads regularly, as in a

plain weave, a certain
or
(lr(i])pel
nnmber
of threads are taken
np
at
given
intervals, tlins
forming
a twill, as
in the
damask darning.
In twilled goods how wonld von determine
(39)
the right from the
wrong
side
On
ISTot
the right side the twill runs from left to right.
(40)
Are
figures always
woven in?
cotton
always.
Usually in
materials they
are printed.
(41)
]ô
pressed.
;
Is felt
it is
woven
made from
fur or wool pulp, which
is
(42)
What
are running stitches? are
Running
equal
size.
stitches
small basting stitches of
(43)
When
are running stitches used?
Running
quire
stitches are used in
seams that do not
re-
gr(>at strength, in
gathering, and several rows are
used in darning and quilting. (44)

AVliat is basting,
is
and for what
is it
used
Basting
sewing with large stitches
to
hold differ-
ent parts of the
work
together,
and
it
is
also used as a
guide for the stitching.

(45)
How
are basting stitches fastened?
Ry two
small stitches taken in the same place.

(40)
101
When
do we use
is to
a fine basting stitch
'.
In a garment that
(47)
he fitted and for h.and work.
When
What
do
we
use a crosswise basting?
When
(48) used
%
joining a material to a lining.

is
a back stitching,
and for what
is it
Back
stitching
is a
method of sewing by which the
stitches are taken
backwards, the needle entering the
material adjoining the preceding stitch, and coming

out so that the stitch on the under side
length of the upper.
It is used to
is
twice the
make
seam strong
and firm and should look like machine stitching.

(49)
How
does half back stitching ditfer from
back stitching?
Half back stitching

except that the needle
is
is
the
same
as
back stitching,
put only half
way
back, thus
leaving a space between the stitches.
(50)
fer?
How
do overcasting and overhanding dif-
Overhanding
is
method of sewing
seam and
the stitches are taken
from right
to left, Avhile overcasta
ing
is
method of finishing the edges of from

left to riglit.
seam and
are taken
(51)
right
?
What
stitches
are
worked from
left
to
Overcasting, catstitching, and loop stitch.
(52)
What
What
stitches are
worked towârds you?
Feather stitching and chain stitching.

(53)
is a
French seam?
102
A
wrong
French seam
is
sewed
first
on the right
side,
trimmed
close to the stitching, the
seam turned
to the
side
and stitched again.
(54)
Where
seam
is is
a felled
seam nsed
A
ers,
felled
is
used in a corset
coAêr
and draw-
and
often used in a night gown.
(55)
When
hem
is a is
faced
hem nsed?
tliere is a
faced
nsed where
cnrved edge
and the hem needs

(56)
to be fitted.
is
What
most important in sewing on tape
ISTeatness
and strength.
is is
(57)
Where
a rolled
hem nsed?
A rolled
(58)
hem
nsed on very fine materials,

is
For what
is
hemstitching nsed?
Hemstitching
(59)
nsed for ornamenting a hem.
How
shonld the threads be drawn?
Always
another.
finish
drawing one thread before beginning
Six threads being the required number.
(00)
ering
?
How
should the work be prepared for gathV
By marking
the fullness ex-en
the middle and the quarters, to
make
when
it is
sewed on.
(01)
How
o*n
should you hold your gathers when

a
sewing them
band
They should
(02)
be held towards you.

is
Why
much
French hem used for hemming

{
damask instead of the plain hem

It is
stronger.
is
(63)
Where
gauging used?

Gauging
is
103
used where there
is
a large
amount
of
fullness required, as in the backs of skirts,
(64)
For what
is
a gusset intended?
To strengthen
(65)
the end of an opening.
Wh_Y does the gusset strengthen the open-
ing?
Because the top

torn.
is
a bias fold,
which
is
not easily
(66)
Where
are
hemmed
plackets used?
Hemmed
skirts.
plackets are used in the straight backs of
(67)
Why
is
a mitered corner used

is
mitered corner
used in heavy materials
to
avoid thickness.
(68)
How
is is
a true bias cut?
true bias
cut by folding over a corner of the
material so that the selvedge or warp threads shall run

exactly with the
bias.
woof
threads.
The
fold will be a true
(69)
Which
?
is
the
stronger,
the
overhand or
hemmed
patch
The hemmed patch

are two rows of stitching.
is
the stronger, because there
(70)
ing
?
Why
is catsti telling
used in flannel patch-
Because the raw edges should not be turned

thus avoiding a ridge.
in,
(71)
What
should be the length of a botton hole
104
A
wide.
button hole should be
iis
long a> the button
is
(72)
ing
?
How
is
a button hole
prepared for work-
B}^ overhanding the edges.
(73)
ton hole
?
At which end do you begin
t<:)
work
the but-
Commence
the material
at the
end farthest frrmi the edge of

to left.
working from right
(74)
Whv
is
a bar
used in finishing^
it
To strengthen
(75)
the button hole and keep

is a
in place.
In sewing on a button, why

it
?
pin placed
across the top of
So
as to lengthen the stitches
between the button

is
and the material around whicli the thread

wound.
(76)
to
be
Why
are these threads w*jund
:'
To
protect the threads and
make
a little space U7i-
der the button for the button hole.
(77)
What
is
an eyelet and Avhat

small round hole
is its
use?
An
in a
eyelet
is a
made and worked

a button.
garment
(78)
to receive a cord or the
shank of
With what do we make an
eyelet?
stiletto.
(7J*)
When
it
is a
hook and eye buttondioled
'I
When
(80)
is
used on the outside of a garment.

is
When
a loop used
It is used
eve.
when space would
not admit of using an

(81)
105
What
'.
thread should be used for darning
Avoolen materials
The warp thread which should he used whenever

possible.
(82)
How
What
What
should a tear be prepared for darning'?
By
first
drawing the corners together.

stitch is
stitch.
(83)
used in finishing the darn?
The running
(84)
thread should be used in stockinet
darning
A
ing
thread as near like the material as possible.
(85)
Why
'.
do we use the twilled weaving in darn-
Damask
Because Damask
(86)
is a
twilled weave.
in
What
thread would be used
darning
Damask ?
Use
(87)
ra^'clings of table linen.
Where
is
the stockinet
web
stitch
used?
It is used in
mending
the knees of children's stock-
ings and knit underwear.
(88)
What
in
it
is
the
aim
in
darning?
The aim
so nicelv that
darning
a tear is to repair the rent
cannot be perceived.
shotild be
(89)
is
What
?
done after a darn or patch
finished
When
damp
darn or patch
is
finished,
it
should be
or a thin
dampened and pressed on the wa-ong

cloth can be laid
side,
on the right side and pressed.
UtU li^ 1904

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f;4}t

aiin sj{n jiga{StigS!aBiBBi{effiS{aig{aa{aiaists{^i^^

NDUSTRIAL AND GRADED SCHOOLS.

Author of " Sewing and Garment Drafting,"

Instructor of Sewing in the School of Agriculture, University of Minnesota.

Two Copies Received

y Couyrii;ni tntry /OoAt ;:^$.^^o^*<i\J^^

Stockinet Web Darning Three Cornered Darn

Hemmed Seam Hemming Blind Hemming

Seam Seam French Seam

Half Back Stitched Seam

Decorative Stitches Double Hem Stitching Feather Stitch

Overhand Stitch Running Stitch Stockinet Darning

Three Cornered Darning Towel Turning Hem

education murt harmonize with

corresponding stages of the ch

gives sewing, cutting and fashioning garments one of

the first places in the succession of studies to be taken

child has scarcely a point of contact with

the world that he so readily perceives as that

refined taste in one's dress

and belongings has

usually been regarded as an acquirement of adult

trained along wholesome natural

lines, his taste will

develop individuality very early.

important points must be considered.

First, the merit of the system.

work and upon the

ity or efficiency of those

carefully planned and

properly carried out, learning to sew will become a

EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING

should be simple and practical

have some relation to the other school work.

touches upon animal

the sheep, silkworm,

and other creatures which in one

or another produce textile threads or the sewing

In much the same manner

arithmetic, drawing, color

study, physical training, geography and history

with sewing in this system.

training makes a pupil

and more observinterests the pupil

It rests certain faculties

Sewing, properly taught, trains the child

have but one kind of

taught successfully should

moi'e than twenty- five, as pupils need in-

necessary to give children a variety of work, that

later return to the first instead of insisting that she

work on the one piece

had the industrial work used

lower grades, will have had training to prepare

the fourth grade.

work given should be

some of the simple

stitches used in sewing.