V p trong vn ha m thc Hu M U n ung khng ch n thun l nhu cu cung cp nng lng duy tr s sng m cn l mt vn ho - vn ho m thc.

. T xa xa cha ng ta khuyn con chu i cho sch, rch cho thm, n trng ni, ngi trng hng hay Li cho cao hn mm c v tr thnh thc vn ho m thc rt c trng ca Vit Nam. Ngi Vit Nam trng l ngha, chung hnh thc nn cc mn n Vit Nam khng ch n m cn chim ngng, thng thc nt tinh t, ti hoa ca ngi u bp th hin bng nhng hng v rt Vit Nam. Mi vng t trn t nc Vit Nam, ngoi nhng c im chung, li c li m thc ring mang sc thi v c trng ca vng t . l phong tc, thi quen, kh hu, v vn ho tng vng. Ci chung, ci ring ho trn khin phong cch m thc Vit Nam rt phong ph. Bn cnh li m thc rt bnh dn, dung d, n gin. C m thc sang trng li c m thc va h, nhng khng c ngha m thc va h km gi tr, km hp dn v t ngon, t b hn m thc sang trng. Ngi Vit Nam rt c ti trong vic sng to cc mn n. l mt khoa hc, mt ngh thut. Mi vng, min c cch ch bin mn n khc nhau, cch thng thc khch nhau, v vng ny khng ging vi vng kia m thc ca Hu cng vy! Vng t c ny c nhng c trng v m thc m khng mt vng no c c, bt k mt ai ch thng thc mt ln u khng th no qun. Chnh v l do , ngi vit chn ti ny.

NI DUNG c "Ming ngon H ni" ca nh vn V Bng, "H ni 36 ph phng" ca nh vn Thch Lam, ri nhng thin tu bt ca Nguyn Tun... mi thy m thc Vit nam c th so snh vi bt k mt nn m thc no trn th gii. n c xem nh th l vn ho, th hin php ng x ca con ngi vi con ngi v con ngi vi t nhin. Khng da dng nh li m thc Bc H, cng khng c phn thc nh li m thc Nam H, m thc Hu c mt chiu su ring, mang m nt bn sc ca mt vng t tng l k ch, thanh lch, nh nhng v tng tim. Ngi Hu n ung gn lin vi ba tiu ch l: r, ngon v nht l phi p. Mt mn n khng p, khng phi l mt mn n. V vi nhng tiu ch nu, ngi Hu chia n ung thnh ba bc: khu thc, nhn thc v tm thc. Khu thc l cch n khng dm coi thng nhng l cch n thp nht, v l n bng ... ming, v n tn ti. N dnh dng nhiu n nhng c ch sinh hc - nh l sc pin hay np xng vn hnh mt c my. n nhn thc, cch n cao hn mt bc - n bng mt. Thng thc ci p trong s n o v mu sc, hnh khi, kh nng by bin, xp t to ra mt hiu ng thm m cao. Lc ny, ci i chu ngi chiu di, nhng ch cho nhng xc cm chm thng hoa. Nhng cao hn ht thy vn l tm thc. Ngha l n bng c tm lng mnh. Chng v th m mt bt nc rau mung luc nh t chanh ti pha vo mt t nc mm ct, li c th nh bit bao sn ho hi v. Mt trong nhng mn n c rt nhiu ngi Hu a thch l rau di nu canh tp tng. Kh m din t ci mi bch tho lan to khi m vung ni canh. Ci thm bi ngi ca chi b, mt cht cht ngt ca rau b ngt, pha vi cht hng hng ca cy b hi, ri no l dn gai, t thi li non, nn chui cht, l rau dip c... C cm gic nh c th gii rau di cng nhau dung dng dung d trong bt canh xanh ngn ngt v gi ln gc gc, rng c mt thi con ngi sng bng hi lm. Vi tui tr, tht kh c th hiu rng bt canh rau di nh gi gm trong n c mt trit l ln v i sng con ngi.
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1. Trit l trong nn vn ho m thc Hu Mt trong nhng c trng ca vn ho Hu l vn ho m thc mt ngh thut m thc mang nng trit l ca con ngi ni y. l mt ngh thut m thc c kt hp gia mn ngon ca Chm xa vi mn ngon Vit, mn ngon dn gian Hu vi mn ngon ca c nc do giao lu, ho quyn vi linh kh t Thun Ho m thnh. Vn ho m thc Hu c mt ci ngun trit l ring mi trng tn vi thi gian. i vi mi ngi Hu, m thc lun l mt ngh thut tr thnh nt vn ho c truyn, su sc. Khng ch th, mn n Hu, cch n Hu tr nn ni ting n mc nh hnh mt chun mc, mt phong cch. C ti 1.300 mn n x Hu. Cun sch dy nu n ca b Hong Th Kim Cc V D - ngi khi ngun cho bi th ni ting 'y thn V D' ca Hn Mc T - gii thiu cng phu 60 thc n bn ma vi 600 mn n 'nu theo li Hu (125 mn n chay, 300 mn n mn, 175 th ch, cho, da mm...). u cng d gii thch, bi Hu l ni ph cha, cung vua, ni hng my trm nm quy t tinh hoa khp mi min t nc. Mn qu ma dn d li theo ngi p, ngi ti, ngi snh iu xm nhp cung vua ph cha, ri c dn ln bn yn tic thnh quc ty quc hn... Nh vn Hong Ph Ngc Tng k rng b T Cung, m vua Bo i, xut thn l c gi bn cho b xinh p lng M Li, Ph Lc c vua Khi nh a vo cung v tr thnh mt vng phi. Hay ng Trn Mao, mt u bp gii trong cung Nguyn, cng xut thn lng qu Ph Lc. ng nu cho vua n, nhng v n nh ng li n cc mn do lng qu v v ng nu. Khi lng cn, ng li by cch nu cc mn 'cm vua'. Mn yn tic cung nh vt T cm thnh v cc lng qu thnh ra mn chung ca mi ngi. Dn d theo thi gian, cc mn ngon c nh hnh, lu truyn v nng cao thnh nt Hu ring khng th ln. Trit l m thc Hu l mt thc th vn ho, ho quyn vi tnh cch con ngi v phong thu t kinh trm nm. Trit l m thc Hu ly CON NGI lm trung tm. Con ngi sng to ra cc mn n phc v cuc sng ca mnh, lm cho i sng ngy cng vn ho hn. Ngc li vn ho m thc phi phc v con ngi, lm cho con ngi
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ngy cng vn minh, mnh kho c v tm hn v th cht. Cho nn nu n l mt sng to ngh thut, n ung l thng thc ngh thut. Ngay t n cc m Hu ngy xa gi l thi: Mi M thi cm. Ch thi nghe rt sang trng, li gn gi hn ch xi x Bc. Hn trm nm trc, b Trng Th Bch, con du ca thi s Tng Thin Vng Min Thm, trong 'li tha' u sch Thc ph bch thin quan nim rng: 'Nu nm va ming l ngon', ' n khng phi h c tht th ngon m da rau th d; chi ngon cng c m chi d cng c; ngon d ni tay mnh ch c ti g ni rau tht...', 'Bit nu n mi bit i ch, m c bit i ch mi bit nu n; tht theo ch m c theo ma, tnh mi mua, mua va kho n..'. Tc l mn n no tha mn nhu cu thng thc ca con ngi nht th c gi l ngon, l sang. Ni bt nht trong mt mm cm Hu, d l ba cm cung nh hay ba cm bnh dn trong mi gia nh, l tnh hi ha. Mn ngon Hu khng ch n bng ming, m trc ht phi thch nhn bng mt, mi ngi thy thm, cm gic thy thm, tai nghe nhng m thanh quyn r, tc l n bng ng quan! Hi ha v mu sc, hng v; hi ha v m, dng, nng, lnh; hi ha trong b cc chn, a, bt, a. Mt a rau sng Hu cha ng c mt th gii chan ha mu sc. Trong ci nn xanh m y s sng y ni ln nhng ngi sao vng mu kh, ming c chua nh mt tri rc r, mu ng vng ca lt v thi hnh na vnh trng khuyt, im nhng lt chui s mu trng nn, trn xoe... Rau y n cng tht (heo) ba ch luc kp vi tm chua ni ting - mt ming ngon y thi cng c chua, cay, mn, ngt, cht, bo, bi ha quyn thnh s thch th khoi cm nh i. Cc loi bnh Hu thng c lm nh v mng. Dn ra mm ngi n bao gi cng c cm gic s n ht, tc l mn n khng p o, ch ng con ngi. l ngh thut, l trit l hi ha ca m thc Hu. Ngay n vic s dng bt a cm by cc mn n, hay a bt n cm ngi Hu cng s dng nguyn tc hi ha. Bt ng thc n, a ng mn n d sang, p cng khng to qu, khng 'ln' thc n.

Cc mn n Hu ni ting nh cm hn, bn b gi heo, nem Hu, tm chua - tht luc hay cc loi bnh khoi Thng T, bnh nm, bnh bo... u th hin mt trit l sng ca ngi Hu: ngho m sang! Ni cch khc, trit l m thc Hu l ngh thut lm cho cc thc phm bnh dn hng ngy tr thnh nhng mn n ni ting, quyn r vi du khch bn phng. C l trn th gii cha c ni no cc mn n ni ting c ghi trong sch du lch quc t li r nh Hu. Vi ngi Hu, nu mn n l th hin am m ngh thut nu n cng nh ngi Hu am m th vy. Ngh thut l 's chi' i. Chi nu n Hu c l l 's chi' hn c! Rau gi, qu v, bp chui, mt xanh cng 'chi' thnh mn n c hng! n mui ngi Hu cng chi thnh ba 'cm mui' sang trng vi hng chc mn khc nhau. Vi quan nim 'n' trc ht l 'n bng mt', ngi ph n Hu rt dng cng trong vic to hnh cc mn n mt cch ngh thut, to nn s truyn cm mnh m mi khi ngi vo bn tic... Tt c nhng 'tc phm' to hnh u c hnh thnh do cm hng ca ngi u bp, khng c sch v no dy ht c. Sch Thc ph bch thin c bi Tng lun m u rt ch l: C khi c tht c khi rau Nu nng xo chin phi mu... Ngi ph n Hu nu n rt k, nhng khi h mi nh trn sng Hng th h li rt tu rng: Sng mai n mt bng no cm Mua chn ci trch, xch chn ci l em v: Ci kho canh ng Ci kho canh ci Ci nu ni chui xanh Ci nu canh rau m Ci nu c chim chim Ci khi rim tht vt Ci kho tht con g
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Ci kho c, u Ci kho c mn ty Tri chiu bng x trng xy Ham chi l lu, b chn ci trch ny qun nm l h h ln lng mnh i vi ngh u bp, ni ln ci tnh mnh i vi ci p, ch ham chi l lu lm sao m nh c vic mua trch, l ri nguyn liu, gia v nu chn mn n dn gian rnh r, ngon lnh n th c. Vng, chi cng l mt nt ca trit l m thc Hu! 2. Phong v Hu Mn n Hu gp phn long trng trong dng thm m n ung Vit Nam, c bit l cc mn c sn dn tc. C l cng v Hu c nhiu nng sn c o nh ht sen h Tnh Tm, c m nc l, qut giy Hng Cn ngt lm, thanh tr Nguyt Biu thm mt nn x Hu cng sn sinh ra nhng mn n k l ca ring Hu nhng li hp vi khu v ca bt c ni u. Tri qua nhiu th k tch ly nhng yu t nhn vn ca khp t nc, bp n Hu cha ng khu v ca mi min: mn, ngt, bo, bi, chua, cht, ng, cay...Ngi Hu thch th tt c cc v, nhng v no phi r rng, minh bch v y. Mun mn th c my chc v mui ruc, mun ngt th ch u xanh nh (ch kho), bo th ch bt lc bc tht quay, ng th c cho nm trm, cay th dng cm hn. mu chnh l bo ton hng v ca thc n, ng thi ci to cho mn n tr thnh hp dn. mu gi chc nng ha sc trong mn Hu, t m nhng chnh xc, nhiu khi quan trng khng km tht c, chnh v th m to ra v gic hon ton khc l ca mt mn n ging nh mt tc phm m thut ca mi v v. Mun t n trnh cao, ngi ni tr phi trang b mt kin thc v tay ngh bc thy trong k thut nu n. Theo sch "Khm nh i Nam Hi in S L"; "Thc ph bch thin" ca b Trng ng Th Bch xut bn nm 1915 v "Ngh thut nu mn Hu" ca c Hong Th Kim Cc, Hu c 1.300 mn n v hin cn lu truyn trong dn
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gian 700 mn; trong khi Vit Nam c 1.700 mn (theo con s ca nh nghin cu Trn nh Gin). Thc n ca mt gia nh trung lu Hu mi ba n c 4 mn n: canh, tm (c, cua), rau qu, tht. Dng cho c n sng, n chnh, n gim; c th xp mn n Hu thnh cc h nh sau: 1. H mn mn, 2. H mn chay, 3. H cho xp, 4. H da mm, 5. H nem ch, 6. H bnh mn, 7. H bnh ngt, 8. H mt, 9. H mn n lm thuc, 10. H mn n cung nh. Theo "Gio trnh nghip v nu n" th nc dng v nc st l thnh phn c bn ch bin nhiu mn n v khng th thiu c i vi cc mn n khc. Mn n Hu mu tuy chim t l rt t trong mn n nhng l phong v to nn c trng mn n Hu vng bn theo nm thng. Gia v: Nc mm ruc, nc mm nh, nc mm kho kh. Mui rang Phng Tch, tiu s Long Th, ti cu, ti non, t mi, hnh, gng non, gng c, ring non, ring gi, thnh go, thnh np, thnh bp, dm chui, ruc xp, ruc bt, ng v hng, m, mm. Cc loi rau, l gy mi: ng, ng ty, s c, l s ngh, l ngh, h, l hnh, l sng, l lt, rau mi, rau hng, rau rm, rau qu, rau ng iu, l bt, l bng, l vng, l i, l da, bp chui, chui non, mng vi, l hanh hao, ru sen, trn b, kh chn. Cc mn ph gia: bnh trng go, bn, da heo, nc hm g, nc da, da, to, ht sen, u, v qut ti, mt ong, v qut kh, v bi, l thanh yn, l du, tng, chao, v qut, v chanh...Bn cnh l nhng gia v ca phng Ty v Trung Quc nhp vo Vit Nam nh b, x du, hnh ty... Tt c 70 gia v vn cha . Ngi ni tr cn phi c nhng kt hp mi to ra mi v hp dn: Mi hp nhau: canh bu mi thch, l hanh hao; hm mt li vi l lt, b ng th phi gi ti b vo. Lm tm chua th phi thm mng vi, kho c th da th phi lt rau rm, ra mn bng kh chua khi ln tn, ch u vn phi ho

thm nc tro, kho tht tu lun lun n km vi cam, c th kho tiu ch n vi cho go do trng. Lt: Dng nhng vt liu khng phi l thc n lt di y to thm v ngon: c cm kho kh phi lt mng vi, c ng kho nc lt ma lau, hp u xanh nu ch bng cau lt l chui s, hp u vn nu ch lt l da... Bc: dng trong vic nng thc n: nng tht b bc ngoi bng l lt, c thu phi bc bng l chui; nng c da bc bng l ci, nng c chnh bc bng l du. Lt: tm rn th lt u v ui, cha khong gia gi l lt bc cu. Vi tm bc, tm s th ngc li: lt ht v ch cha li hm v ui tm. thc ch bin: nc chm dng cho tng mn n quan trng n khu v: ngi Hu tuyt i khng bao gi dng nc mm chm rau. Rau dn, rau khoai, rau mung c nm loi nc chm: nc tm kho nh, nc kho t cc loi c thu, sng, ng, nc...; nc kho t tht, nc kho ruc. Bnh khoi th dng vi nc tng kho vi tht nc hay gan b. Vi nem nng th dng gan heo thm vo nc tng. Vi bnh t cun tht b nng th kho nc tng c b t khoai lang nng, tm hm luc th dng sauce mayonaire. Bnh bo, bnh t: nc luc tm pha thm ng, nc mm. Bnh t thm vo t chanh, ti, t. Bnh nm, bnh bt lc th dng nc mm ruc, t, ti khng pha thm g c. Bnh c: nc mm nm hay mt. Bnh cun tht heo tm chua: nc chm thm m mi ruc v khoai lang. Hnh thc t nu cha , ngi Hu cu k trong chn bt dn mi, mi mn n u c mt loi chn bt ph hp. - n cm hn dn vo t t. - n bnh bo tng chn t nh xu, mng tang, cho bnh bng tre. - Ch ht sen, ht sen bc nhn lng, ch u ng dn vo chn s cao cp.
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- u h mc vo chn s rng xanh, n mung snh. - Xi vt bng tay. - V trn th xc bng bnh a. - Nem chua khng dn sn trong da m va lt l va n. Sau ny, mt s sn ho hi v gc Trung Quc, Php du nhp n Hu nhng trong thc n ng thin hng ngy cc vua triu Nguyn ch yu vn dng nhng mn n dn gian c ch bin bng ngh thut nm nu hon chnh c tch ly v tn trong vn ha m thc ca ngi Hu. Tnh phi tr mi v mu sc - Tm kho nh cn t mu cho mt: "nh hoa" - Canh chua cn to t mu mng ni ln mt cho p. - Khng phi tt c cc mn nc, ph n Hu u nm ruc v nc mm. a s canh chua c thm th hay ruc cho c v ngt chua thanh thanh. - C mn tuyt i khng c ruc, nc mm nh: Canh tri ct, ch nm l h khi nhc xung bp, vi c th nc dng g. Trong cc mn mun khi t ch v cm quan, v gic th phi thn trng khi nm ruc v nc mm, t... - Cc mn bt buc phi c ruc, t nh bn b gi heo, cm hn, canh c c m nu thm... - L rau mu ty mn n m nm ch khng phi mn g cng b hnh ng, tiu, t c. V thuc trong mn n Hu Trong phng php nu n theo li Hu: Ngoi cch nm nu, v thuc trong mn n Hu khng km phn quan trng gi l lnh: ta t, sam, me chua, l vung, l lt, m lng, v, chui cht, rau m, tt c l dc liu y lun c trong da rau sng n km hng ngy. Nc mm ruc c m cht cao cp rt cn cho c th. - Tht vt, hn, c i vi nc mm gng iu ha. - Ch Hu s dng hu ht cc h u, nhiu loi c qu u hm cha dc tnh v hm lng dinh dng cao.
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- Nem n km vi ti l khng sinh, y l tht sng c lm chn bng ln men. - Trng ln n km rau rm. - Rau sng n tht phay v: cay (bc h), chua (kh), ng (chui cht), (v) ngt nghn trnh i chy v c nhiu vitamin, mn: nc mm ct hay tm chua. - Tht g: km l chanh non - Tht ln nm hnh; tr p hoa hng, hoa mc, hoa si; nc ch xanh thm gng. Ngoi ra, ngi u bp cn phi ch nm khi nu n, l khu khng km phn quan trng. Ch ngi n ng ni, n ng mn mi thy ht v m ca tng mn n. Gi n v ngi cng n l yu t v hnh thm vo thc n c mt ba n ngon. iu sau cng l quan st khch n: Khi khch n, ngi ph n Hu kho lo ng sau rm nhn trm ngi n. Nu pht hin cha n th phi nhy cm thm hi m iu chnh v " n ca mnh, cng vn nhiu mn kho nu cng c nhiu cch, song chua, cay, mn, nht ty ngi n. Mnh nu cho ai th phi ty ngi y mi va ming" (Theo thc ph bch thin). Khng nhng nhn xt ca nh vn V Phin "ngi n b Hu nu n bng tt c tm hn" m theo ti ph n Hu hnh din vi thin chc "nu n l phi lm du trm h". V "mt ming n ngon ting i". Hin nay, vt liu nu n rt a dng v phong ph, phng tin, dng c nu n rt tin li cho ph n. Nm vng cc nguyn tc cn bn trn c th p dng vo thc t sng to thm nhiu mn mi khch n cm gic "l ming" hn. Chc chn li nu ny s chinh phc c i mt, ci mi v ci li ca ngi kh tnh nht.

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3. Ming ngon t Hu Ngi Hu di tn tr v, h hng b con xm quanh hi han chuyn tr. Sau nhng gi hn huyn tm s l n chuyn n ung. Ngi trong h ngoi lng thng hi: No mun n chi sau nhng nm cch bit qu hng? Thi th th: Cm hn, bn b, ch ht sen, ch u ng, nem tr, bnh bo, bnh nm, bnh bt lc, bnh ram, bnh t, bnh khoiV di y, ngi vit xin gii thiu mt s mn n c trng ca Hu. * Bn B Gi Heo: Hu ni ting khng ch l ni tp trung nhng n i lng tm ca cc vua triu Nguyn, ni c nhng ngi cha, ngi nh th, n i ni danh, Hu cn ni ting v Hu c mt thin nhin ti p v ti ngh nu nng nhng mn n Hu ca cc c gi m ang x Hu. Mi vng c mt thc n c sn ring. Nhng thc n v nhng c sn cng theo vi thi gian, theo vi lng ngi m thay i. Con ngi ta thng bao gi cng ham nhiu, ham r v thch chung hnh thc bn ngoi hn l ci cht bn trong. S gi di, cu th, chy theo li nhun, chiu theo th hiu ca khch thay cho ci tht th, ci cn thn, ci ni ting. Nu n l mt ngh thut, iu ai cng bit, cng bn, cng tht cng chng cng thc nhng ti sao bn ngi ny ngon m bn ngi kia d, chng qua l ngh thut nm nu cng vi kinh nghim. Cho nn n mt tim ln, sang trng cha phi l "bit n". Ngi "snh n" "bit n" khng thch g m vo . H s tm mt gnh bn ven ng, m Hu th thiu g, ch bit chn ng ch, h s thng thc c v ngon x Hu. Bn th khng u khng c, nhng hnh thc ca con bn th mi min mi khc. H Ni, xa v nay cng la lit bn "bn riu, bn ch, bn c, bn thang.." m c l c bit nht l bn ch, si bn rt mnh li cun tng l mng, cn ch th l tht ba ch cp vo thanh tre ri em nng trn than hoa, chng khc g bn tht nng Hu nhng ngon hn nh nc chm v rau hng. Hu cng th, c bn gi he Con bn lm bng go xay c pha t bt lc nn con bn trng hi trong v sn hn. Con bn Hu li to hn cc ni khc. C hai loi bn, con
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bn thng c cun thnh tng con nh lc i bng m chm n vi nc mm t chanh ti th tuyt. Cn con bn lm bn b gi heo hoc bn cua thng ln hn. Dc hai bn ng bn s gp ngay y nhng gnh bn rt bnh dn nhng cng rt ngon, rt ng khch. Mt t bn gi hay bn b hp dn thc khch chnh l nh cht nc ngon ngt v thm. c bit l ni bn, mt ni bng nhm do rt mng v c ngi th g x Hu g rt kho, trng ging mt chic ni ng ngy xa nhng su v ming rng hn. Ci ni c chi ra k c rt k nn bao gi cng sng trng, trng rt thch mt. n mt t bn ang bc khi, nhng si bn trng trong ni bt trn l nhng vin mc hng (c vin t gi sng v tht cua), nhng ming mng gi c ninh mm nh, vi mt cht mu trng ca nhng cng r v mu xanh ca rau sng, hp mt t nc beo bo m km theo mt cht gia v mm t chanh bn s thy v cng th v, va cay, va nng, va xut xoa, va nghe v ngt ca nc bn ca tht chy dn vo trong thc qun, chc chn bn s khng qun c ci hng v n Phi c mt ln n bn n chy nc mt lc mi cm c ci hng v x Hu n thm trm nh th no. Bn cnh nhng tim, nhng qun c nh trn hu khp cc con ng trn kinh thnh Hu; Mi bui sng tinh m, bn i do cc con ng x Hu s thy nhng c con gi Hu c mi tm i mi, vai ko kt mt gnh bn i thnh tng on, khi bay nghi ngt, ni ci vui v, l c gi Hu i bn bn gnh cho khch khp c thnh ph. Mi ngi mi v, mi gnh mi hng v nhng tt c u Hu, Hu t con bn, t cc ni nhm, t dng i nhanh khoan thai nhp nhng, v cho d bn c kh tnh n u chc cng s hi lng khi thng thc mt t bn rt bnh dn, rt r nhng nhiu khi li rt ngon. * Bnh Khoi Thng T Khch thp phng n Hu ln u ai cng mun tm n Thng T, pha ng nam kinh thnh, thng thc mt mn n m nhng li tn tng v n lan truyn khp t x. l bnh khoi.

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Ch ring tn gi ny cng gi ln s t m v hp dn i vi gii m thc. Khi k tn giy mc v ... nc bc bn ci v ngun gc tn gi BNH KHOI m vn cha ng ng. C ngi cho rng nguyn gc ca tn bnh l BNH KHI, nhng do ngi Hu pht m sai nn thnh ra BNH KHOI n qun bnh khoi Lc Thin ca Thng T , n xong thy cch gii thch no cng c l c. Bnh va chin xong, nng hi hi cn ming no, KHI bc theo ming Qun nh, bn nm bp l hng hc la ci chin bnh t ngay trc ca, khi cay mun n con mt . Chng BNH KHI th l bnh g ? Lc c hng bng bnh ra, nhn da bnh vng m, nng gin, t cnh a rau sng ti xanh, vi t nc lo cn bc khi l thy KHOI nhn. n ht mt a bnh, mun gi thm mt a khc v KHOI KHU qu. Vy gi BNH KHOI khng ng hay sao? Bnh khoi Hu c chung ngun gc bnh xo trong Nam , nhng cch lm, ngi Hu gi l bnh, th c khc. Bt go khuy trong nc lnh, pha thm cht mui v ng thng bnh c mu vng cho ngon con mt. Tm bc v p vi tht heo nc ri xo s qua vi nm hng hoc nm mo x nh lm nhn bnh. Chun b thm cht t gi sng v mt chn lng trng g nh lng trn trn mt bnh cho p. Bt khun bnh ln l, i nng khun, trng du cho si mi mc bt v Ri nhn bnh ln bp l, y np, ch bnh sp chn cho thm gi sng vo gia ri trng lng trng g ln mt bnh. Dng v gp bnh lm i, lt mt bnh cho u bnh chn dn mi ra d Bnh khoi ngon cn nh rau sng v nc l Hai th ny thng c dn ra trc nn mi c chuyn c mt v khch l i n bnh khoi thy ngi ta a nc lo vo rau sng lu m bnh vn cha chn, bn si c hai mn y ri thc mc: sao gi bnh m ch ton thy rau v nc? Rau sng n bnh khoi phi c : ci con, rau thm, kh, chui cht, v ... Tri v ch Hu mi c bn bnh khoi Hu ngon lng danh v c hng v ring. Nc lo th phi ch bin t tng, u nnh, gan heo
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Bnh khoi

vm nh, u phng hoc m, thm cht bt v gia v va , nu chn thnh mt th soup sn st c mi thm y quyn r . Dn Hu l "dn Vit gc ... t" nn n bnh khoi lc no cng km thm da t ti vi nhng tri t ch thin cay x li "Ra mi ngon". H vn thng ni vy an i my ng khch ang va n va lau nc mt v va cay va ... khi. Bnh khoi Hu ngon nht l bnh khoi Lc Thin ca Thng T. Qun ny lc no cng nm np khch. Ty Tu Ta c . Ch qun, ba bn ngi c trai ln gi u rt p v ... cm, nhng ni, nghe hiu ting Anh bng cch ra du, cn "xuya" hn ngi c kh C ng khch Vit n n, thy bnh ngon qu, c hng bnh li xinh p nn xut khu thnh th ( tng c nng): Trm nm bu vt t Bnh Khoi l y phi khng c? Kh ni, c hng b cm, nghe khng hiu tng gi tnh tin bn gi su ngn tay t "su ngn hai da" lm thc khch trong qun c mt ba ci mun xu... * Nem V Tr Hu Hu c hai mn n, ng ra hai mn nhm ru, ni ting l Nem v Tr. Nem tr i lin vi nhau nh i bn chn tnh, nh v chng qun qut kh xa l Nem tr khng th thiu trong cc dp ci hi ca ngi Hu cng nh tru cau v Nem Hu khc vi nem min Bc v nem min Nam cch nm gia v. Khng bao gi ta gp mt ln nem Hu li c mt ht tiu trn gia. Cc mi v du ha tan trong ln nem xinh xn. Trong ln nem c mi v ca tht nc ln men chua, da heo xt nh, thnh, nc mm kho, ng phn, mui... Thc lng kh cn c s ho hc ca v gic khi thy tng ln nem chua ng hng xp thnh vng trn trong lng a mi gi! Tr Hu thm ngon cng l ngh thut nm gia v v cch thc hin kh cng phu t m: da heo phi ram, thm ti, gng, m, thnh, mui, ng trn bp v gi cht bng l i. B Trng Th Bch, con du Tng Thin Vng Min Thm c vit 1 bi th t tuyt dy cch lm tr theo li Hu:
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Tht ny lm tr phi ram da Ti cu, gng non xt si ra Thnh, mui, m, ng u trn bp Gi bng l i, b tranh tra. Nem Hu th nhiu ni lm v bn, nhng lu nm v ni ting vn l ng o Duy T, gc giao lu mi cu v ca ng Ba. S rt tin cho bn khi i mua sm qu Hu v ch ny cng rt gn vi cc l m xng ni danh ca Hu l Hng Thun v Nam Thun. Bi th ngi trc ming ngon t Hu, khch tha hng c nh cn thy vang vng xn xao ting sng bin n o, ting gi h, ma bay ma l hng nm. Ri hnh nh ni non m ph, dng sng Hng trin ni Ng; nhng con c l rau ngoi ch ng Ba, nhng con hn di cn nc chy, tt c! Tt c c ni cmm ln trong tm tng ngi dn x Hu v thc s hin hnh trn nhng mm cm trong nh ngy hp bn hay trn ng ph hp c knh c xa. 4. m thc cung nh Hu Hu l kinh cui cng ca cc triu i qun ch Vit Nam, cho nn c iu kin quy t v y nhng ca ngon vt l t khp mi min trong nc nhm phc v cho nhu cu ca hong gia v triu nh. Ring Tha Thin Hu, vng t kinh k, cng c hu ht cc yu t a l t nhin bao gm ni rng, ng bng, sng ngi, ao h, m ph, bin c, c th cung cp rt nhiu sn ho, hi v theo chu k ca thi gian tng nm: ma no thc ny. Cc mn n cung m thc cung nh ti nh chng nhng phong ph, giu cht dinh dng, khch sn Hng Giang ngon ming m cn phi p mt na. Ch bin n thc ung v by bin chng ln bt a v mm bn l c mt ngh thut. Chng u do nhng ngi u bp gii nht nc nu nng. Ngoi ra, cn c nhng mn n trng ming ca vua do nhng bn tay vng ca cc b trong ni cung ua nhau sa son, ta tt, tr ti c ng qun vng quan tm v sng i.

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Trong c cu t chc ca triu nh nh Nguyn, c ba b phn nhn s chnh c giao nhim v chuyn lo vic bp nc phc v cho vic n ung hng ngy ca hong gia v sm sa c bn cho nhng dp l lc ca triu nh. Ba b phn hoc ba c quan l: - i Thng Thin (khong 50 ngi) lo lm cm nc hng ngy cho vua. ng tc vua n c gi l ng thin. - i Phng Thin (cng khong 50 ngi) lo ba n hng ngy cho hong thi hu (m vua). - Cc Ty L Thin (T ty v Hu ty, c n 350 ngi) chuyn trch vic lm c bn phc v cc cuc t l v yn tic. Ngoi ra, trong Hong cung cn c i Thng Tr lo vic nc ni v vin Thi Y chm lo sc khe cho vua. Theo mt chng nhn phng Ty tng c mt Hu vo thi Gia Long (1802-1919) th ng vua ny n ung rt iu v n gin. Nh vua khng bao gi ung ru. Mi ba n ca vua ch gm mt t tht, c, cm, rau, bnh, tri. Khi n, vua khng bao gi cho bt c ai ngi cng bn. T thi Minh Mng (1820 - 1840) tr i, cc hot ng lin quan n vn m thc trong Hong cung mi c t chc mt cch quy m v cht ch. Mi ba cm ca vua c 50 phm v (mn n), mi phm v do mt u m thc cung nh ti khch sn Hng Giang bp trong i Thng Thin ph trch. Trong mi ba n, nh vua c dng mt t ru thuc kch thch tiu ha. Toa thuc b ngm ru ny thng c gi l Minh Mng thang, vn cn lu dng cho n ngy nay.

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Di thi ng Khnh (1886-1888), c mt chng nhn ngi Php c dp c vo thm ving trong Hong cung Hu v ghi li vic n ung ca nh vua nh sau: Hng ngy, vua ng Khnh n cm 3 ln, vo lc 6 gi sng, 11 gi tra v 5 gi chiu. Mi ba n c 50 mn khc nhau... Khi chung th chng c trao cho on Thi gim. H chuyn n 5 cung n v ch c my nng mi c hn hnh qu gi hu cm c vua... Ngi dng ru cht Bordeaux theo li khuyn ca cc y s gip cng c cho tng ph hi yu. Go c vua dng phi tht trng v chn la tng ht, nu trong ni t, mi ln nu xong l p b... Nu c vua n khng ngon ming nh thng ngy th ngi gi cc vin ng y n xem mch bc thuc. Mi ln dng thuc, ngi bt cc ng y nm th trc mt ngi (F.Baille). m thc cung nh ti khch sn Hng Giang

tr, bnh, chn ru v bt a vua dng u t lm hoc mua t Trung Quc. V sau, chng c cc nh nghin cu ngi Php gi chung l bleus de Hu. T thi Khi nh (1916-1925), cc vua cho mua sm thm nhng s trng men v thy tinh c ch to t Php v dng. Vua Khi nh n ung t mn hn, nhng mi ba cng phi c 35 phm v. Trong phng n ca vua, khng c n b nh di thi ng Khnh, nhng li c vi v quan ln ng chu thin (hu vua n) v ni chuyn vi vua cho vui vua n thm ngon ming. n thi Bo i (1926-1945), c vua ln Hong hu Nam Phng cng 5 ngi con u n chung ti lu Kin Trung, mt cng trnh kin trc c xy theo kiu hin i. V chu nh hng np sng ca phng Ty sau 10 nm du hc Php, nn nh vua v Hong hu thng n chung mt mm, mt bn cng con ci nh bao gia nh khc. Cc vua Nguyn thnh thong c ban yn cho cc hong thn, cc nh thn, s thn ngoi quc n giao thip hay triu cng, v cc tn khoa tin s... Trong
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phn ln nhng ba tic nh th, u c Bt trn, tc l 8 mn n qu bu, gm: nem cng, ch phng, da ty ngu, bn tay gu, gn nai, ui i i, tht chn voi v yn so. Ngay t gia th k XIX, triu nh quy nh rng: trong mt ba i yn chiu i cc phi on ngoi giao quan trng nht, cc Ty L Thin phi lo nu dn 161 mn n. Hy vng m thc cung nh va c trnh by, gip chng ta bit thm i iu v phong cch n ung ca mt s vua cha ngy xa, v cung cp thm mt vi thng tin hu ch cho nhng ngi ang t chc cc ba n Thng Thin ti nhiu nh hng v khch sn hin nay.

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KT LUN minh chng ci ti nm nu ca ngi Hu, ngi snh bp nc c cng quyt ni rng: Ai mun hc hi ngh thut nu n mn Hu, vic u tin l phi thuc v hiu mt trm bi th Nm trong sch. Thc ph bch thin ca Trng ng Th Bch. Cho n ngy nay ngi ta c th m c ngh thut nm nu Hu c ti hng chc mn cu k qu him nh gn h ninh, ch chim phng hong, mi i i, nhung nai, bn tay gu Li c ti vi ba trm mn tht gia cm, gia sc v thy hi sn nhng cch nm nu rt khc bit, nhiu khi rt t mn nhm to ra mi v ring bit tht l Hu. n vi m thc Hu, mi ngi c mt say m ring. Mt trong nhng c trng vn ho ca x Hu l nt vn ho m thc hin hu siu bn m mu sc dn tc. i vi ngi Hu, ch bin mn n v phong cch thm m c coi l ngh thut n ung ca cng ng ngi Vit ni chng v ca ngi dn t Hu ni ring.

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