Chapter III 3.1 METHODOLOGY FOR ASSESSMENT OF SPECIFICATIONS 3.2 INSPECTION SYSTEMS 3.2.1 SYSTEM - I {FLAW BASED) 3.2.2 SYSTEM - II {4-POINT SYSTEM) 3.2.3 SYSTEM - III {10-POINT SYSTEM) OUALTY N8PECTON One of the definitions of Quality is that, The totality of features and characteristics of a product or service that bears on its ability to satisfy the stated or im- plied needs," (ISO 8+02.98). The inspection is one of the crucial stage activity in the manufacture of textile products. The products at various stages such as on receipt, during the process and final stage are normally inspected to assess the status of the product for acceptance or otherwise. Inspection is carried out mainly to appraise the qual- ity of products in terms of manufacturing defects and adherence to the specifications and other require- ments. Normally, the visual inspection is carried out on the fabric to examine the occurrence of yarn de- fects, fabric defects, design[colours besides specifi- cation particulars and followed by drawing the samples for testing to know the hidden quality parameters such as shrinkage, strength, colour fastness etc. In the earlier days, the inspection was mainly carried out to segregate the defective products from the good products thereby controlling the quality of products at the exit points. In the late 80s, the concept of quality has undergone total transformation from qual- ity control to quality assurance and total quality man- agement. In the changed scenario, the inspection is mainly carried out to ascertain that the products con- form to requirement and initiate suitable corrective and preventive action if otherwise. There are two ways of doing inspection viz. l00 inspection and sampling inspection. The l00 in- spection is generally carried out to segregate the prod- ucts quality-wise and perform mending activity for products having mendable defects whereas the sam- pling inspection mainly focus on sentencing the lot or batch for acceptance or otherwise based on the sample. The entire quantity of fabrics received from the sup- pliers or sub-contractors and production departments (in case of units with a manufacturing facility) has to be thoroughly checked for specificational particulars, DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY quality parameters including defects, before further processing so that the quality of the finished product can be assured. This will lead to reduction in defects in the final product, re]ection level, replacement and thereby improve the quality of the final product which results in quality image in the market. Inspection and Mending is to be carried out on a flat table in a well illuminated[ ventilated place. Inspec- tion equipments like counting glass, a good calibrated tape, metallic comb, clipper-plucker needle are to be provided to the checkers. CHECKNG OF DMEN8ON8 MEASUREMENT OF WIDTH: Width shall be measured at three different places of the fabric and recorded. While measuring width, care should be taken to remove the wrinkles[ crease gently from the fabric surface. to keep the measuring tape straight across the fabric horizontally from selvedge to selvedge. to measure the width as far as possible near the centre avoiding the ends. not to stretch the fabric while measuring. MEASUREMENT OF LENGTH: Fabric to be measured for length and actual length recorded. Length is measured by any of the following methods By passing through metre counter fitted roller. By manually clipping the fabrics in the fold measuring frame. By counting the number of metre fold in case of folded fabrics. Care to be taken to ensure that the folds are of one metre length by measuring a few folds. 2 3.1 METHODOLOGY FOR ASSESSMENT OF SPECIFICATIONS CHECKNG OF CON8TRUCTONAL PARTCULAR8 ENDS PER INCH: Ends per inch shall be counted at two places along the width of the fabric and recorded. PICKS PER INCH: Picks per inch shall be counted at three places along the length of the fabric and recorded. Care to be taken while placing the pick glass to see that the edges of the template should coincide with the yarn. Ends[Picks per inch may be counted for one inch. Also the picks should not be counted at defective places like weft bars and cracks. WEIGHT PER SQ.MTR.: Pieces are to be weighed and recorded. Weight per square metre to be calculated and recorded. CALCULATION OF WEIGHTJSQ.MTR.: Weigh the individual piece under Inspection and note-down. Work out the sq.mtrs. of the piece by multiplying the length of the piece in mtrs. and width of the piece in mtrs. Calculate wt.[sq.mtrs . as: Weight in kgs. Length in mtrs. X Width in mtrs. -N=FA DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY +.250 kgs ( weight of the piece) 25 mtrs (length) X l.3 mtrs. (width) +.250 = 0.l308 or 0.131 kgs. 32.5 wt.[sq.mt. in kgs. = = Let us calculate the wt.[sq.mtrs. of piece of 25 mtrs. length With a width of l30 cms. (l.3 mtrs.) . The weight of the piece was found to be +.250 kgs. 3.2 INSPECTION SYSTEMS There are three different systems for grading the quality of fabric, which are as follows: 3.2.1 SYSTEM - I {FLAW BASED) In this system, depending upon the magnitude, defects are classified as minor, ma]or or serious. Note: 1) Minor Flaws: Minor flaws occurring more than one in num- ber within l5 cms. length of the cloth shall be reckoned as one minor flaw only and such minor flaw shall be reckoned at the rate of one for every l5 cms. length of the cloth. 2) Major Flaws: a) Ma]or flaws occurring more than one in number within a length of l5 cms. of the cloth shall be reckoned as one ma]or flaw only. b) Ma]or flaws occurring in a consecutive length beyond l5 cms. shall be reckoned as one ma]or flaw each for every l5 cms. or part thereof. This will not apply to ma]or flaws where magnitude has been limited to a spe- cific limit. 3) Selvedge Defects: a) In case of furnishing fabrics all selvedge defects like pulled in selvedge, wavy selvedge etc. of minor nature are also to be reckoned as ma]or flaws. b) Defective or damaged selvedge exceeding 5 of the length of the piece in case of fur- nishing fabrics are to be reckoned as serious flaw. c) All types of selvedge defects or weaving defects very close to the selvedges are not to be reckoned in case of fabrics used for mak- ing garments[made-ups. 3 ACCEPTABILITY CRITERIA FOR FLAWS: The acceptability level for `first quality fabric is usu- ally established by mutual agreement between the buyer and the seller. The different types of fabrics have different point levels of acceptability depending upon their end use. DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY Acceptance number Sample size of major flaws in metres l200 29 +0 ll75 28 39 ll50 27 38 ll25 27 37 ll00 26 36 l075 25 35 l050 25 3+ l025 2+ 33 l000 23 32 975 23 3l 950 22 3l 925 22 30 900 2l 29 875 20 28 850 20 27 825 l9 26 800 l8 25 775 l8 2+ 750 l7 23 725 l6 23 700 l6 22 675 l5 2l 650 l+ 20 Standard Standard 'A-1' 'A' 625 l+ l9 600 l3 l8 575 l2 l7 550 l2 l6 525 ll l6 500 ll l5 +75 l0 l+ +50 9 l3 +25 9 l2 +00 8 ll 375 7 ll 350 7 l0 325 6 9 300 6 8 275 5 7 250 + 6 225 + 6 200 3 5 l75 3 + l50 2 3 l25 2 3 l00 l 2 Minor flaws : @ 25 per l00 metres maximum are acceptable. Serious flaws: No serious flaw is acceptable. Acceptance number Sample size of major flaws in metres Standard Standard 'A-1' 'A' THE ACCEPTABILITY STANDARD DEVELOPED BY TEXTILES COMMITTEE FOR EXPORT OF MILL - MADE COTTON CLOTH Some of the commonly followed standard for accept- ability for the above mentioned systems are listed in the following pages. 4 DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY FORMATS OF VISUAL CHECKING REPORT OF FABRIC Once the defects are classified and graded they have to be recorded in the visual inspection report of fabric(work sheet) ANNEXURE-I Instructions for filling up the visual checking report of fabric: PART-I: Fill up the required details available with the unit which are self explanatory. PART-II : i) Piece no.: Write serial no. of the piece taken for inspection. ii) Length in mtrs.[yards: Write the specified stamped length in declared column and actual length in actual column. iii) Width in inches[cms. Measure the width at three places and record the same against the respective column with average. iv) Ends per inch: Count the ends per inch at two different places and record the same against the respective columns with average. v) Picks per inch: Count the picks per inch at three different places and record the same against the respective columns with average. vi) Weight per piece in kgs.: Weigh the individual inspected piece in kilograms and record the same against the respective columns. PART - III: i) Piece no.: Record the serial no. of the piece taken for inspection. ii) Serious flaws and total: Note down the seri- ous flaws observed by giving flaw number men- tioned in Chapter I and the same is to be noted in flaw number row and number of such flaws are to be recorded in respective column number with total. iii) Ma]or flaws and total: Note down the ma]or flaws observed by giving flaw number mentioned in Chapter I and the same is to be noted in flaw number row and number of such flaws are to be recorded in respective column number with to- tal. iv) Minor flaws and total: Note down the minor flaws observed by giving flaw number mentioned in Chapter I and the same is to be noted in flaw number row and number of such flaws are to be recorded in respective column number with to- tal. v) Remarks: Under this column, checker can report absence of stamping, shade variation on comparison with approved sample or any other parameters required to be inspected. PART-IV: The details are to be recorded from Part-III af- ter summarising serious, ma]or and minor flaws numberwise with total. PART-V: Quantity inspected in terms of pieces[metres are to be recorded from Part-II. The other details are to be recorded from Part-Iv after summarising the total number of serious, ma]or and minor flaws observed. Acceptability or oth- erwise can be determined as per buyer[unit re- quirement. PART-VI: The details are to be recorded from Part-II after summarising width, length, ends per inch, picks per inch and weight per sq.mtr. Acceptability or otherwise can be determined as per buyer[unit requirement. Checker must sign the worksheet and summary sheet filled up by him. 5 Length of defect in fabric, Points either length or width allotted Up to 3 in. (7.5 cms.) l Over 3 in. (7.5 cms.) up to 6 in (l5 cms.) 2 Over 6 in. (l5 cms.) up to 9 in. (23 cms.) 3 Over 9 in. (23 cms.) + Holes and openings {largest dimension) l in. (2.5 cms.) or less 2 Over l in. (2.5 cms.) + 6 DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY 3.2.2 SYSTEM - II {4-POINT SYSTEM) The +-point system, also called the American Ap- parel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point- grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and by the Department of Defence in the United States and is endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC. Fabric flaws or defects are assigned point values based on the following: The maximum number of defect points to be counted against any one linear yard[metre is four points. Overall, fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the number of defect points per l00 sq yards[sq mtrs. of fabric. ACCEPTABILITY CRITERIA FOR FLAWS: Normally fabric rolls containing up to +0 points per l00 sq yds. and +8 points per l00 sq mtrs. are acceptable. However, based on the price line and end product more or less than +0[+8 points per l00 sq. yds.[l00 sq mtrs. respectively may be accepted. Example - 1: A fabric roll of l20 yds. long and +8 in. wide con- tains the following defects: 2 defects up to 3 in. 2 x l = 2 points 5 defects over 3 in. 5 x 2 = l0 points but less than 6 in. l defects over 6 in. l x 3 = 3 points but less than 9 in. l defect over 9 in. l x + = + points TOTAL=l9 points Therefore, Points[l00 sq. yds. = Total points scored in the roll x 3600 Fabric width in inches x Total yard inspected = l9 x 3600 +8 x l20 = 11.9 defect pointsJ100 sq. yds. So if the acceptance criteria is +0 points[l00 sq. yds. then this roll is acceptable. DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY Example - 2: A fabric roll of l00 metres long and l50 cms. wide contains the following defects: 3 defects up to 7.5 cms (3in). 3 x l = 3 points 6 defects over 7.5 cms. 6 x 2 = l2 points but less than l5 cms. (over 3 in. but less than 6 in.) 2 defects over l5 cms. 2 x 3 = 6 points but less than 23 cms. (over 6 in. but less than 9 in.) l defect over 23 cms. (9 in.) l x + = + points TOTAL = 25 points Therefore, Points[l00 sq.mtr = Total points scored in the roll x l0000 Fabric width in cms. x Total metre inspected = 25 x l0000 l50 x l00 = 16.67 defect pointsJ100 sq.mtrs. So if the acceptance criteria is +8 points[l00 sq. mts. then this roll is acceptable. FORMATS OF VISUAL CHECKING REPORT OF FABRIC Once the defects are classified and graded they have to be recorded in the visual inspection report of fabric(work sheet) ANNEXURE - II Instructions for filling up the visual checking report of fabric. PART-I: Fill up the required details available with the unit which are self explanatory. PART-II: i) Piece no.: Write serial no. of the piece taken for inspection. ii) Length in mtrs.[yds.: Write the specified stamped length in declared column and actual length in actual column. iii) Width in inches[cms. Measure the width at three places and record the same against the re- spective column with average. iv) Ends per inch: Count the ends per inch at two different places and record the same against the respective columns with average. v) Picks per inch: Count the picks per inch at three different places and record the same against the respective columns with average. vi) Weight per piece in kgs.: Weigh the individual inspected pieces in kilograms and record the same against the respective columns. PART - III : i) Piece no.: Record the serial no. of the piece taken for inspection. ii) Hole, cut or tear: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respective column giv- ing flaw number - 2.6 (mentioned in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash eg. l[2 as- suming l flaw of 2 point is observed. iii) The defects upto 3 inches: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respective column giving flaw number (mentioned in Chap- ter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash eg. l[l assuming l flaw of l point is ob- served. iv) Over 3 inches to 6 inches: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respective 7 column giving flaw number (mentioned in Chap- ter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash eg. l[2 assuming l flaw of 2 point is ob- served. v) Over 6 inch to 9 inch: Record the flaws ob- served as per their magnitude in respective col- umn giving flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash eg. l[3 as- suming l flaw of 3 point is observed. vi) Over 9 inches: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respective column giving flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the re- spective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[+ assuming l flaw of + point is observed. vii) Total flaws: It is to be recorded for each indi- vidual pieces. viii) Total points: It is to be recorded for each individual pieces. ix) Remarks: Under this column, the checker can report absence of stamping, shade variation on comparison with approved sample or any other parameters required to be inspected. PART-IV: The details are to be recorded from Part- III after summarising defects point-wise and magni- tude wise and record the same against respective DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY 3.2.3 SYSTEM - III {10-POINT SYSTEM) Under this system, fabric defects are assigned point values based on the following:- Length of defect, Points allotted Warp defects Up tol inch l l to 5 inch 3 5 to l0 inch 5 l0 to 36 inch l0 Filing defect {weft defect) Up to l inch l l to 5 inch 3 5 inch to half-width 5 Larger than half-width l0 No linear yard of fabric is assigned more than l0 points, no matter how bad or frequent the defects are. flaw number with total. PART-V: Quantity inspected pieces[metres are to be recorded from Part-II. The other details are to be recorded from Part-III after summarising the total number of flaws observed, total points and points per l00 sq.yds. Acceptability or otherwise can be determined as per buyer[unit requirement. PART-VI: The details are to be recorded from Part- II after summarising width, length, ends per inch, picks per inch and weight per sq.mtr. Acceptability or otherwise can be determined as per buyer[unit re- quirement. Checker must sign the worksheet and summary sheet filled up by him. 8 Acceptability criteria for flaws: Fabric is considered of `first quality if the number of defect points are less than the number of yards of fabric inspected. In the case of fabrics wider than 50 in., the fabric is considered of first quality if the total defect points do not exceed the number of yards of fabric inspected by l0. FORMATS OF VISUAL CHECKING REPORT OF FABRIC Once the defects are classified and graded they have to be recorded in the visual inspection report of fab- ric (work sheet) ANNEXURE - III Instructions for filling up the visual checking report of fabric. PART-I : Fill up the required details available with the unit which are self explanatory. PART-II : i) Piece no.: Write serial no. of the piece taken for inspection. ii) Length in mtrs.[yds.: Write the specified stamped length in declared column and actual length in actual column. iii) Width in inches[cms. Measure the width at three places and record the same against the respective column with average. iv) Ends per inch: Count the ends per inch at two different places and record the same against the respective columns with average. v) Picks per inch: Count the picks per inch at three different places and record the same against the respective columns with average. vi) Weight per piece in kgs.: Weigh the individual inspected pieces in kilograms and record the same against the respective columns. PART - III: i) Piece no.: Record the serial no. of the piece taken for inspection. ii) Warp way upto l inch: Record the flaws ob- served as per their magnitude in respective col- umn giving flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same has to be recorded below the number of the flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[l assuming l flaw of l point is observed. iii) Warp way l inch to 5 inches: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respective column giving flaw number (mentioned in chap- ter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[3 as- suming l flaw of 3 points is observed. iv) Warp way 5 inches to l0 inches: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respec- tive column giving flaw number (mentioned in chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the number of points allotted to the particu- lar flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[5 assuming l flow of 5 point is observed. v) Warp way l0 inches to 36 inches: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respec- tive column giving flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and DEFECTS ANALYSIS BASED VISUAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES FOR QUALITY 9 the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[ l0 assuming l flaw of l0 point is observed. vi) Filling up to l inch: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respective column, giv- ing flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[l assuming l flaw of l point is observed. vii) Filling l inch to 5 inches: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in respective column giving a flaw number (mentioned in Chap- ter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[3 as- suming l flaw of 3 point is observed. viii) Filling 5 inches to half of the width: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in re- spective column giving a flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[5 assuming l flaw of 5 point is observed. ix) Filling larger than half of the width: Record the flaws observed as per their magnitude in re- spective column giving a flaw number (mentioned in Chapter I) in the respective row. Total number of points are to be calculated by multiplying the flaws with the points allotted to that particular flaw and the same is to be recorded below the number of flaws already mentioned putting a slash e.g. l[l0 assuming l flaw of l0 point is observed. x) Total flaws: It is to be recorded for each indi- vidual pieces. xi) Total points: It is to be recorded for each individual pieces. xii) Remarks: Under this column, the checker can report absence of stamping, shade variation on comparison with approved sample or any other parameters required to be inspected. PART-IV: The details are to be recorded from Part-III after summarising defects point wise and magnitude wise (warp way and filling way) and record the same against respective flaw number with total. PART-V: Quality inspected pieces are to be recorded from Part-II. The other details to be recorded from Part- III and Part Iv after summarising total number of flaws observed and total points. Acceptability or otherwise can be determined as buyer[unit requirement. PART-VI: The details are to be recorded from Part-II after summarising width, length, ends per inch, picks per inch and weight per sq.mtr. Acceptability or otherwise can be determined as per buyer[unit requirement. Checker must sign the worksheet and summary sheet filled up by him. 10