extract from RHS level 2 certificate in horticulture

planning your garden: part b

If the hard landscaping and lawned
areas of the garden provide the
skeleton, the planting provides the
flesh. It fills out the framework you
have created, adding bulk, substance
and height.

Depending on the site, your two

dimensional plan may have a
third dimension of height in the
form of retaining walls and
changes of level, but it is the
planting that will introduce bulk; for your initial plant
selection should seek to extend the plan's intention upwards.
It is this bulk that starts to define both the positive forms on
the site and the negative spaces or voids, between them,
suddenly your outside room has not only walls but furniture
as well.

Garden Design, John Brookes.

plant selection
There are so many excellent plant
varieties around now that choosing
the right species for a particular site
can be a real challenge. However,
there are many good reference books
and websites around to help with your
selection - (see reference list at the
end of this module) Often these will
describe each plant's final height,
spread, leaf and flower colour, as well
as including information on soil and
water requirements, and other growth
characteristics.

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ornamental plants
When selecting a plant for a particular area of the garden, the
following three aspects are most important:

” how well suited the plant is to the microclimate of the location

” what sort of appearance you want in this area

” which plants are available.

All three aspects are essential - no matter how well a plant fits in with
your design in an architectural sense, it is of no benefit if it cannot
grow successfully in local conditions.

As we have seen, the microclimatic conditions in each area of the

garden may vary considerably so they need to be assessed carefully.
Points to look for include: sun intensity and duration, soil conditions,
rainfall, air circulation and temperature. For example, many plants
perform better in partial or full shade than in full sun. Similarly, the
length of daily exposure to a particular light level can influence how
well some plants grow. Soil pH, soluble salts level and drainage
properties also have an influence on the plants you can grow
successfully.

Other points to consider include: areas of the garden where there is

little or no air movement, as plants susceptible to mites, scales and
other insects will usually be attacked more severely in areas with poor

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air circulation; daily variations in maximum and minimum

temperatures, which in some cases may be extreme; and level of
disturbance - in some parts of the garden plants are more at risk of
trampling or being knocked by passers-by, and some plants will
tolerate this more successfully than others.

As you progress through the course, you will find that you begin to
develop a better knowledge of plants and their varied requirements.
You will quickly become familiar with the plants that are most widely
available in your geographical area and are considered to grow best.
However, don't be afraid to try new plants if you think they will suit
local conditions.

The architecture of a plant will also be of key importance. Plant

architecture consists of form, size, texture and colour. Plant form can
be classified in a number of ways, some of the most common of which
are shown below:

Plants should be selected on the basis of their mature size or a size at

which they can be maintained easily.

Consider each plant’s texture, seasonal foliage colour, flowers, fruit,

and bark. When possible, select plants that provide year-round
interest. For example, choose a tree, such as a silver birch, that has
attractive spring flowers, beautiful autumn or midsummer colour, and
shedding bark for winter interest.

It is also important to be aware of potential insect and disease

problems. Desirable plants are those resistant to or tolerant of pests
such as mites, scale, nematodes, root rots, powdery mildew, wilts,
galls, blights, and leaf spots. Plants in some locations may also need
to be tolerant of air pollution and animal problems.

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a planting scheme
consider height and scale
When deciding on a planting
scheme, take the height and
shape of each plant into
account, both in relation to
other plants and to the scale
and size of the area. For
example, a small garden would
look overcrowded if it contained
a large tree such as a horse
chestnut (Aesculus); a
smaller-growing species, such as
rowan (Sorbus aucuparia),
would be more in proportion.

Successful plant groupings often

depend on harmony of scale; a
grouping that combines many
different plants, all of greatly
differing heights, may simply
look unplanned and untidy, but
there should be some variation
so that the scheme does not look too regimented. Even on a small
scale, such as in a rock garden, consider how dwarf shrubs and
conifers may be combined with cushion- and carpet- forming rock
plants to create variety and interest through height and scale
differences, whilst still appearing well-balanced.

If grouped with much larger plants, small plants are often overlooked,
so try to put them in a setting where they will be appreciated, and can
show themselves at their best.

plant what grows best

This can be determined by visiting a local nursery and by observing
other gardens in the area. Remember that you can also incorporate
native plants into the garden design, which you can do quite simply
by utilising native vegetation already growing in the garden. This can
be a subtle way of creating harmony between the garden and the
surrounding environment.

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observe your planting environment

As noted above, it is important to take into account the microclimate
of each area. Are the lighting conditions full sun, partial sun, or
shade? Is the elevation high and dry or low and moist? Is the soil
acidic or alkaline, rich organic or sandy? Is the climate hot, cold,
rainy, desert, windy or salty? You may have a combination of these
conditions in your garden. Also consider the orientation of your house.
Remember that in the winter the sun is lower and, therefore, shade
from the house or from garden structures may block out sunlight.
Plants may also be chosen for their usefulness as erosion control on
slopes, as wind screens, or to provide shade or wildlife food.

plan a year-round display

Pick your plants so that you
have attractive colour and
texture in your garden all year
round. For example, an early
blooming evergreen shrub such
as azalea might provide colour
in the spring and green in the
winter whereas perennials such
as lupins may provide colour in
summer but die back in the
winter. Other plants may be chosen for their colourful stems, peeling
or ornamental bark or unusual stem shapes. There are many plant
combinations using annuals, perennials, grasses, vines, shrubs, trees,
and bulbs, that will accomplish an attractive year-round display.

natural plant associations

When deciding which plants to place together, it is sometimes helpful
to bear in mind how they would grow naturally so that the grouping
as well as the selection of plants is appropriate. Imitating plant
associations from nature has distinct advantages. In every natural
habitat, associations have developed between plants that blend
together well. These plant communities are adapted to the local soil
and climate or microclimate and they thrive in the same growing
conditions. In addition, the range of plants that thrive may be affected
by other factors. For example, chalk downland, if left ungrazed, will be
invaded by shrubs and trees, and the grassland plants are quickly
crowded out.

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Monocultures of one species (that is large groupings of one particular

plant) rarely occur in nature. Even if you find a large cluster of the
same species, they are almost always intermingled with other species.
Any bare soil is rapidly colonised by local flora, and different layers of
vegetation may all be found on the same piece of ground. The highest
layer is the tree canopy, below that there are shrubs and climbers,
and at ground level there are herbaceous plants and bulbs. Such
layered planting is easily reproduced in the garden.

planning beds and borders

The basic principles remain the same whether planning an herbaceous
or mixed border, or an island bed. The design of a border can have a
profound impact on the mood of a garden. In a formal setting,
straight borders with a limited colour scheme might fit best, whereas
in an informal garden, irregular or curved shapes, with a more relaxed
approach to planting, are appropriate.

Beds and borders can vary in size, but should be in keeping with the
size of the garden. Generally, 1.5m (5ft) is the minimum width for a
border to have impact in the garden, and to create a well-balanced,
layered effect.

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Island beds, unlike borders, are surrounded by lawn or paving and

so can be seen from all sides. It is important to take this into account
when developing a planting design.

In the past, depending on the size and style of the garden, a single
herbaceous border might be backed by a wall, fence or hedge,
while a pair of borders might flank a path. Lines were often formal,
almost regimented. In modern gardens a mixed border, comprising
small trees, shrubs, climbers, bulbs and annuals, as well as perennials,
is a more common sight.

The plants you choose for a border depend very much on the effect
you wish to create. You might, for instance, choose to plant large,
distinct groups of a single type of plant along quite formal lines. Or
you might choose a more informal, fluid effect, with drifts of each
plant flowing into each other. This approach creates swathes of colour
and texture, and less clearly defined edges.

Mixed borders and beds have the advantage of providing year-round

interest. They also allow gardeners to plan a garden suited to their
particular requirements. A border with many shrubs and just a few
perennials requires much less maintenance than one containing many
perennials and annuals and just one or two shrubs.

Factors that need to be considered when planning a border include:

Height - site taller plants

towards the back of a front-
facing border, graduating
towards the shorter ones in the
front. This creates a tiered
effect and means that no plants
are hidden from view. In an
island bed, the tallest plants
should be placed in the centre,
with the smallest round the
edge. Don’t follow this scheme
too rigidly, however, or it may
seem too formal and regular.
Varying the position of the
tallest and shortest plants can
bring informality and originality
to the border.

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The wider a border, the taller the plants may be - very tall plants look
awkward in a narrow border, and there may be a steep angle from
the tallest to the shortest which spoils the line of the garden.

Planting in groups - Grouping small and medium-sized plants

together can create a huge impact, where sometimes individual
specimens get lost. If the plants are positioned at random in
odd-numbered groups this can still produce a fluid, natural effect. The
smaller the plant, the larger the group should be: Berengia species,
for example, look effective in threes, while London pride (saxifraga x
urbium) looks better in groups of seven or more.

Form - perennials have widely differing forms and silhouettes:

upright, round, arching, horizontal. Mixing plants with contrasting
forms can add richness and depth to a border. The slim spikes of
delphiniums, for example, are tall and straight, and could be planted
alongside the foaming, cloud-like cushions of Gypsophilia paniculata
for maximum impact.

Texture - foliage contributes most to the texture of a bed or border.

Texture may be affected by leaf size and shape, as well as the leaf
surface - is it matt, waxy, glossy, leathery, ribbed, or woolly?

Again, mixing plants with varying textures can create much extra
interest in a border.

Colour - You can use colour to create a vibrant, blazing display of

oranges or reds, or a much more muted, watercolour effect with
gentle pastel shades. Some garden schemes have been based on a
single colour - such as the famous white garden at Sissinghurst, Kent,
or on a limited selection of colours.

When planning a colour scheme bear in mind that foliage colour is

just as important as flower colour. Plants with white- or
cream-variegated leaves, such as Hosta crispula can enhance a white
colour scheme, while the golden foliage of Filipendula ulmaria ‘Aurea’
would set off a yellow one.

Golden foliage colours generally look best in sun, and white in light
shade, but very hot, dry conditions may scorch yellow leaves.

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special requirements
You may also want to take other factors into account as you design
your planting scheme. Is scent important in the garden? Or do you
want a garden that will attract bees and butterflies? Perhaps you are
keen grow flowers or grasses to display in the house or use in dry
arrangements?

structural planting

A number of plants have a striking architectural or sculptural impact -

some from their natural growth habit, others from their foliage, stems,
or flowers. There is a great variety of forms and effects, ranging from
the low, spreading mass of prostrate juniper to the stately upright
flower spikes and thistle-like leaves of Acanthus spinosus.

Structural plants are often used

singly as a feature or focal point,
but they can also be effective as
part of the overall design
framework. They are excellent for
visually linking the house (or other
non-living feature) with the garden,
as the sculptural, but living, form,
spans the transition from hard
materials to soft planting. Including
a few strongly-shaped plants in an
otherwise unstructured and
informal plan helps to give the
design focus and contrasts well
with the soft lines of the free
planting. With deciduous or
herbaceous plants, plan the scene
so that other plants provide a
similar function during the winter
months. For example, a group or
red-barked dogwoods (Cornus
alba) could be planted next to a
clump of Gunnera magellanica so
that the dogwoods become a spectacular feature once the Gunnera
dies back.

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useful sources
Brickell, C (ed.). 1992. The RHS Encyclopedia of Gardening. Dorling
Kindersley.

Bromhall, N. 2003. Complete Gardens Interactive Plant Finder and

Gardens Guide. Complete-Gardens.com Ltd.

McHoy, P. 1992. The Ultimate Garden Planner. Lorenz Books.

Royal Horticultural Society. 2004. The RHS Plant Finder.

The following websites also contain very good plant finder sections, as
well as a great deal of other useful gardening information:

The Royal Horticultural Society. www.rhs.org.uk

BBC Gardening. www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/

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Copyright: Edinburgh Garden School

This is a short extract from the Edinburgh Garden School, RHS Level
2 Horticulture course.

For more information on our full range of gardening, horticulture

and design courses, please visit our website:

http://www.gardenschool.eu

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