Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Tallinn
February - March 2014

New Look

In Your Pocket gets a makeover!

Sauna Culture

Strip down and take part in the hottest of Estonian pastimes

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Contents
E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Arrival & Transport Arrival

Getting here is half the fun Transport Navigating Tallinn

5 6 11 14

The Basics
Helpful things everyone should know

History
Learn it, or youre doomed to repeat it

Culture & Events 16

Major events, cinemas, art galleries and more

Sauna culture
Get hot and sweaty Estonian style

22
Statue Hmarik (Dusk) by M.Mikof, next to Viru Centre (A-4)

Sightseeing The Old Town

The medieval centre in a nutshell Sightseeing tours By bus, by bike or by tram Museums Covering city history, from tunnels to airplanes

24 26 28

Tallinn for Families

Fun stu to do with your little ones

35 36 38 59 62 78 82 90

Active Tallinn
Take action

Restaurants
From sushi to slt

33 Viimsi Picturesque coastal area just next door to Tallinn Kadriorg Stroll in Tallinns most beautiful park 34

Cafs
The hottest places in the caeine scene

Nightlife
Find your perfect party

Hotels
A bed for every budget

Shopping
Cool souvenirs and fashion purchases

Directory
From dental care to shoe repair

Maps & Index

View of Toompea castle from Schnelli park (C-1)

Old Town map City centre map Street index

95 96 - 97 98 February - March 2014 3

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Foreword
Welcome to Tallinn and the brand new edition of Tallinn In Your Pocket. Faithful readers might notice that our look is slightly dierent this time around as we have a new design. You can read more about it on page 17. Even though its technically the low season here at this time of year, there are still plenty of things to see and do in this beautiful and ancient city. We have a whole list of big events on page 16 as well as a load of sights to behold, which you can read all about on in our Sightseeing section starting on page 24. No trip to Tallinn is complete without indulging in a sauna - its part of the national culture after all. We give you all the bare details in our feature on page 22. Enjoy your trip to the medieval wonderland of Tallinn and make full use of this handy guide!
Publication details C O I TY G U I D E S Publisher Linnajuht Printed by Reusner, Tallinn Published 9,000 - 12,000 copies, 6 times per year ISSN 1406-2690 O Linnajuht Company Oce & Accounts Vana-Viru 4, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia Tel/fax. +372 644 64 70 tallinn@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accountant Marian Puusepp Editorial Editor In Chief Nat A. Singer Editor Steve Roman Researcher Irja Luks Designer Kllike Johannson-Singer Photography Kllike Johannson-Singer and Nat A. Singer unless otherwise stated. Cover Kllike Johannson-Singer Sales & Circulation Senior Account Manager / Circulation Marek Prn Account Manager Irja Luks Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Linnajuht O. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Arriving
As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away.

BY SHip
Most ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port (reisisadam), terminals A, B and D. Left Luggage and a helpful information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal A. Exchange oces are plentiful but not always economical. ATMs are just as easy to nd. Terminal D, located just across the small neck of water, has similar services. Lindalines boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall Speedboat Harbour, where a currency exchange booth is open whenever boats are arriving. Rates here are decent. Getting to town You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover the short ride to town for 3.80 - 4.50.

E S S E N TI A L

BY BUS
Buses arrive at the bus station (autobussijaam), (H-4), just o the main highway from Tartu, but Lux Express passengers coming in from Riga or Vilnius should strongly consider hopping o at the much more central Viru vljak stop (ask other passengers where), rather than continuing on to the bus station itself. Once at the station, youll nd left luggage in the basement. The cash-only currency exchange takes all major currencies, including Russian roubles, but gives appallingly bad rates. The ATM by the main entrance is probably a better bet. Getting to town The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tnav from behind the station. Buses N17 and 23 leave directly from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse vljak (4th stop) in the centre, while trams N2 and 4 run from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru vljak (4th stop), also in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about 6.

BY TRaiN
Arriving by train at Tallinns Balti Jaam (B-1) puts you just a couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. Since renovations the station itself is no longer a Soviet-era relic and now includes a nice restaurant and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just o the breeze-way that leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left luggage) oers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors. Getting to town Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tnav into Old Town, or take trams N1 or 2 from behind the station three stops to the Mere pst. stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here.

COVER STORY
We cant remember exactly where or when we took the picture of this lovely, colorful door in Old Town - but we thought wed brighten up this edition as we head toward spring, with a photo of this beautiful old door. It might even be a fun game for our readers to try and nd the door and if you do, you can let us know its location. If you nd it, please tell us on Facebook or send an e-mail to the editor at nsi@ inyourpocket.com. Happy hunting!

BY caR
Crossing the border from Latvia is completely hassle-free now that the Baltics belong to Schengen. Getting over the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both cases, be sure to bring your cars registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card. You can also buy insurance right at the border station. Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h, in the cities 50 km/h, unless otherwise noted, and the headlights have to be always turned on. For fares and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden, contact the ferry companies in the Getting around section of the guide.

ABOUT IYP
ESTONIA LATVIA NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND NETHERLANDS BELGIUM GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND ITALY HUNGARY BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO ROMANIA LITHUANIA BELARUS POLAND UKRAINE RUSSIA

SLOVENIACROATIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

Its now 22 years since we published the rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, wellwritten and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching ve million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our rst outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). tallinn.inyourpocket.com

BY pLaNE
Tallinns airport may be a super-modern aair, but its so small youre never in danger of getting lost. Once past the luggage receiving area, youll nd ATMs and currency exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental oces are downstairs. Getting to town A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs 10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N2 (marked Lennujaam - Migu) from the A. Laikmaa stop, just outside the airport to the down town Viru Centre. Theres also a separate airport shuttle that will take you and other passengers anywhere within Tallinns city limits for the low price of 18, for up to 7 persons. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 5

SOUTH AFRICA

4 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Getting Around
Tallinn is basically a large village and getting from one end of the city to the other is usually fairly quick and easy - compared to most international standards of course. Here we have listed all of the dierent ways you can navigate the city - and in some cases even beyond. to the City Government Info Hall, youll then receive your 2 deposit fee back - or you can just keep it as a souvenir. For more info please go to: http://www.tourism.tallinn.ee/ eng/fpage/travelplanning/transportation/public. EUropark RtLi 3 3.20/hour. QD-2, Rtli 3, tel. (+372) 661 02 23 , europark@europark.ee, www.europark.ee. J Rotermann parkinG hoUse Entrance from Ahtri street. 2.40/hr. QB-4, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 661 02 23 , europark@europark.ee, www.europark.ee. Open 24hrs. VabadUse vLJak parkinG hoUse 2.40/hr. QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 9, tel. (+372) 1669, parkimine@yhisteenused.ee, www.parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs. VirU Centre parkinG hoUse 1.80/hour.QC-4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 1669, parkimine@ yhisteenused.ee, www.parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs.

Arriving & Getting Around

PUBLic TRaNSpORT
Tallinns public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trolley-buses and trams, all of which use the same ticketing-system. As of January 2013 public transport is free to all residents of Tallinn, making it the rst European capital city to implement such a system. Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas, whereas buses are mainly for getting to outlying neighbourhoods. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the terminal under the Viru Centre, or from Vabaduse Vljak (Freedom Square). You can easily hop on a tram in several places adjacent to Old Town. Routes and schedules are also listed in English at soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#tallinna-linn/map/ en where you can also nd a handy route planner to help you navigate your way through Tallinns pubic transport system. Detailed route maps are also posted at many public transport stops and stations. When climbing on board, in 98% of cases, you can just hop on any door, i.e. you dont have to show your ticket to the driver. The rare exception is a few buses that have no-entry signs on their rear doors. If you see this sign and the door doesnt open, head to the front and buy a ticket from the driver or scan your pre-purchased Smartcard at one of the scanners on board (see below). Tickets and cards are otherwise checked by inspectors who jump on at random stops. In our experience, inspectors appear very rarely, but in theory they could show up any time. In other words, dont blame us if you get caught. The ne for riding like a rabbit - as locals call it - is 40. Exceptions include: registered residents of Tallinn, Tallinn Card holders, unaccompanied children under the age of six and children under the age of three plus one accompanying adult - they all ride the public transport system for free. Tickets: The same tickets/cards are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the single-ride ticket. Non-Tallinn-residents will need to purchase this ticket from the driver for 1.60 and it no longer needs to be validated. If you are planning on travelling a lot via public transport, other types of tickets are good for specic periods of time and are sold in all post oces, at Selver or Prisma info desks, R-Kiosk shops and the Tallinn City Government Info Hall (Vabaduse vljak 7). All longer period tickets are now e-tickets and come in the form of a plastic Smartcard. Youll need to rent the card for a one-time deposit fee of (2) and then purchase virtual tickets that will be added to the card. These come in the form of a 24 hour (3), 72 hour (5), 5 day (6) or 30 day (23) pass. The card will need to be validated upon entering the vehicle by holding it in front of the orange validation machine. Youll know its been scanned properly when a green light and beep sound show that your pass has been validated. Each time you add another E-ticket to the card youll need to repeat this process. When you no longer require the use of Tallinns public transport system, the card can be returned 6 Tallinn In Your Pocket

TaXiS
Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and next the Drama theatre just outside Old Town, but grabbing a taxi on the street, especially those parked in Old Town, is the best way to get ripped o. Always check the prices rst, which should posted on the taxis right rear window. These consist of a base fare of usually 2.20 - 3.20 plus two per-kilometre rates (one for daytime, one for night) which should normally be around 0.35 - 0.96. When in doubt, you can agree on a price to your destination with the driver before you get in. Ordering a taxi by phone is always the best strategy, as youll avoid the dishonest taxis that prey on tourists. Here is a list of taxi companies along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time rates can be about 20% more. Peretakso Only large taxis available, best for small groups. 4.80 + 0.95/km. Qtel. (+372) 16111/(+372) 646 00 06, peretakso@peretakso.ee, www.peretakso.ee. A RevaL Takso 2.50 + 0.55/km. Qtel. (+372) 1207/(+372) 601 46 00, info@reval-takso.ee, www.reval-takso.ee. Takso24 2.80 + 0.49 - 0.54/km. Qtel. (+372) 1224/(+372) 640 89 27, info@takso24.ee, www.takso24.eu. A TULika Takso 3.35 + 0.69 - 0.80/km, maxi taxi 5.75 + 1.25. Qtel. (+372) 1200/(+372) 612 00 01, takso@tulika.ee, www.tulika.ee. A

CaR RENTaL
ABC Rent Service out of oce hours and at the weekend 13. Special oer for hotels - free delivery and collection Mon - Fri 09:00 - 18:00. QI-5, Ltsa 6 (500m from Tallinn Airport), tel. (+372) 674 77 81, info@abcrent.ee, www. abcrent.ee. Open 09.00 - 18.00. Closed Sat, Sun. Avis QH-3, Prnu mnt. 141, tel. (+372) 667 15 15, rent@avis. ee, www.avis.ee. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun Also at: J-5, Tallinn Airport, Tartu mnt. 101, tel. 605 82 22. Open 24hrs. Hansarent QG-3, Ahtri 6, tel. (+372) 655 71 55/(+372) 53 04 40 55 (24hrs), booking@hansarent.ee, www.hansarent.ee. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Minirent Electric car rental for 10/hour or 59/24hrs, several rental stations around the city (see website). Qtel. (+372) 82 82 82 82 (24hrs), abi@minirent.ee, www.minirent.ee. Sir AUtorent QH-3, Juhkentali 11, tel. (+372) 661 43 53/(+372) 56 51 353 (24hrs), sirrent@online.ee, www.sirrent.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SiXt Whether you need a car rental for business or pleasure, Sixt oers you great rates and quality vehicles. QJ-5, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605 81 48, rent@ sixt.ee, www.sixt.ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00 Also at: D-4, Tornime 5, tel. (+372) 638 16 00. Open 08:30 - 17:00, closed Sat, Sun.

PaRKiNG
Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that theres absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that nding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs 1.04 - 4.60/hour, depending on the zone. Look for posted signs to tell you the price and the hours/days that paid parking is in eect. Some city centre areas and all of Old Town require you to pay even at night. Buy per-hour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you rst parked. If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded central parking lots/garages: EUropark Aia 7 3.60/hour. QC-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 661 02 23 , europark@europark.ee, www.europark.ee. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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February - March 2014

Arriving & Getting Around

FERRiES
The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn go by ship, and its no wonder - the city has excellent, affordable ferry connections to Helsinki, Stockholm and Saint Petersburg. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the choice between large car ferries, which make the crossing in about two hours, and fast ferries (hydrofoils and catamarans), which usually take only 1.5 hours, but are seasonal and dont run in all weather conditions. Ferries leave from various terminals of the citys two passenger harbours, clustered just outside Old Town (see our map). PassenGer Port, TerminaL A - D Nearly all ferry companies use the Passenger Port, which is divided into terminals A through D. All Tallink ships use D-Terminal. QF-3, Sadama 25, tel. (+372) 631 85 50, ts@ts.ee, www.portoftallinn.com. Information open in A-Terminal 06:00 - 18:30, in D-Terminal 06:00 - 22:30.

Arriving & Getting Around

TRaiNS
Train travel in Estonia hasnt gained the popularity it has elsewhere in Europe. The only real international connections are to points east (Moscow, St Petersburg and beyond), and although plans are under way, forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius at the moment. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian cities by rail. Two separate companies cover Estonias train system: GoRail handles international, Elron operates the local electric trains and the inter-city diesel trains. ELron Now fully outtted with modern trains, they operate the commuter, electric train routes to such places as Paldiski, Aegviidu and Riisipere. Tickets can be purchased online or on the train (cash only). As of January 01, Elron also services the longer distance Tartu, Valga, Prnu, Viljandi, Rakvere and Narva lines, with brand-new Stadler diesel trains. On these routes you can pay by cash or card on the train. Unfortunately their website is currently only in Estonian, for routes, schedules and prices you can either e-mail or call the 24hr infoline.Qtel. (+372) 1667 (24hrs), info@elron. ee, www.elron.ee. N GoRaiL Gorail operates the trains to Moscow and St. Petersburg. See website for full price list, schedules and visa requirements if applicable. QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 00 44, reisid@gorail.ee, www.gorail.ee. Open 08:00 - 18:00 Gorail info open at Balti Jaam train station 08:00 - 13:30; 14:30 - 19:00. Train Station (BaLti Jaam) Located just outside Old Town, Tallinns newly-revamped train station boasts a trendy caf, fountain and a day spa, but still has almost no information posted in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there are information booths (open 07:10 - 18:15, Sat - Sun 08:00 - 18:15), usually staed by someone multi-lingual. Tickets for all trains, including the Russia trains, are sold from windows in the main hall (take a number and wait). For domestic routes, you dont even have to bother with this process since the same tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains. QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 00 23/(+372) 1667 (24hrs), www.baltijaam.ee. pany. com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

FERRY cOMpaNiES
Ecker Line Large car ferry Finlandia. Adult single tickets starting at 27. QF-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372) 664 60 00, info.ee@eckeroline.ee, www.eckeroline. ee. Open 09:00 - 17:30 Reservations and information by phone 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 8:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:30. St. Peter Line Although it only leaves every four days, now you can head to St Petersburg via ship without having to stop rst in Stockholm. The round trip which includes two nights on board and a day in St Petersburg can even be completed visa-free where applicable. See website or contact agent for full details. QF-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372) 666 08 00, terminal.tallinn@stpeterline.com, www.stpeterline.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Adult single tickets starting from 25. TaLLink Large and fast car ferries. Adult single tickets start from 19. To Stockholm from 29. QG-3, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 17808/ (+372) 640 98 08, booking@tallink.ee, www.tallink.ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun Also at: H-3, Gonsiori 2. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat - Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J VikinG Line Large car ferry Viking XPRS. Adult single tickets from 19. QG-3, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 1719/(+372) 666 39 66, booking.estonia@vikingline.com, www.vikingline.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun Also at: F-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port. Open 08:30 - 16:00, Sun 08:30 - 14:00. Reservations and information by phone 08:00 - 20:00, Sat - Sun 09:00 - 18:00. J

fERRiES TO HELSiNKi
FROM TALLINN Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 134567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 7 12345 6 1234567 7 123456 7 123456 7 123456 7 1234567 123456 7 1234567 1234567 TO TALLINN ArDep. Arrival Terminal Ship Terminal Dep. rival 07:30 09:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink)* Lnsi 07:30 09:30 10:30 12:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink)* Lnsi 10:30 12:30 12:30 16:00 D Silja Europa (Tallink)* Lnsi 18:30 22:00 13:30 15:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink)* Lnsi 13:30 15:30 16:30 18:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink)* Lnsi 16:30 18:30 19:30 21:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink)* Lnsi 19:30 21:30 22:30 00:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink)* Lnsi 22:30 00:30 07:30 09:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 10:30 12:30 10:30 12:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 07:30 09:30 11:00 13:00 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 08:30 10:30 11:30 13:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 13:30 15:30 12:30 16:00 D Silja Europa (Tallink) Lnsi 18:30 22:00 13:30 15:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 14:00 16:00 14:00 16:00 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 14:30 16:30 16:30 18:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 16:30 18:30 17:30 19:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 17:30 19:30 19:30 21:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 19:30 21:30 21:00 23:00 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 21:30 23:30 22:30 00:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Lnsi 22:30 00:30 MS Viking XPRS (Viking Katana08:00 10:40 A 11:30 14:00 Line) jokka MS Viking XPRS (Viking Katana18:00 20:30 A 21:30 24:00 Line) jokka MS Viking XPRS (Viking Katana16:30 19:00 A 20:00 22:30 Line) jokka 12:00 14:30 A MS Finlandia (Ecker Line) Lnsi 08:30 11:00 18:45 21:15 A MS Finlandia (Ecker Line) Lnsi 15:30 17:45 Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 134567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 123457 6 7 1234567 12345 6 7 123456 7 123456 7 1234567 123456 7 1234567 1234567

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fERRY TO STOcKHOLM
From TALLINN To TALLINN Dep. Arr. Terminal Dep. Arr. 18:00 10:00 Vrtahamnen 04:08 05:55 *Arrival on next day. Ferry operated by Tallink. Ferries leave every day. Schedule valid as on January 15, 2014. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 9

*Scedule valid as of March 03, 2014. Scedule valid as of January 15, 2014. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider. 8 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

aiRpORT
Lennart Meri - TaLLinn Airport Tallinns airport is a modern aair, but still so small theres never a worry about getting lost. A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs 10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N2 (marked Migu-Lennujaa,) from the A. Laikmaa stop, just outside to the downtown Viru Centre on its east side. Please see Arriving section for information on getting to the city from the airport.QJ-5, Tartu mnt. 101, tel. (+372) 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), fax (+372) 605 84 33, info@tll.aero, www.tallinn-airport.ee. EcoLines A large bus company with routes throughout the Baltics, Europe and probably the best way to get to Riga from Tallinn - for the price. Ecolines is generally less expensive than other transportation options or bus lines, without compromising on comfort or quality. Conveniently you can book and pay for tickets via the internet, this option also comes with a discount and you wont have to wait in line at the ticket oce. See website for additional info. QI-4, Tartu mnt. 68, tel. (+372) 606 22 17/(+372) 56 37 79 97, ecolines@ecolines.ee, www.ecolines.ee. Open 06:30 - 21:00. LUX EXpress Formerly known as Eurolines, Lux Express runs most international bus routes from Estonia. Seats on all routes can be reserved up to 24 hours in advance by calling ahead, though getting through to the oce requires persistence. You can also buy tickets from the website. Find the oce on the bus stations rst oor. QH-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. (+372) 680 09 09, fax (+372) 680 09 01, info.ee@luxexpress.eu, www.luxexpress.eu. Open 06:30 - 19:00. Here are some helpful tips on how best to avoid some embarrassing situations while spending your time in Tallinn.

Basics

BORDERS
Estonia belongs to the Schengen visa area, which includes 22 EU countries, Norway and Iceland. It means that if you are travelling to Estonia from within the Schengen border control-free area, you will not be required to show any documentation when you arrive in Estonia, whether it be by ship, plane or by car. In fact you will not have to go through customs at all, but each individual country still maintains the right to perform intermittent checks. Of course if you arrive in Estonia from outside the Schengen zone you will still be required to show your passport or EU identity card if applicable. For more information on Schengen and how it might apply to your trip to Estonia, logon to the Estonian Foreign Ministrys website at www.vm.ee.

BUSES
If youre travelling city-to-city in the Baltics and you dont have your own car, the bus is denitely the way to go. Its also a good way to meet local students. Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn. BUs Station (TaLLinna BUssiJaam) Tallinns small bus station has been recently renovated to suit the modernity of its passengers and its not the depressing Soviet-era relict that it used to be. Tickets are available inside the station or from the driver. (Let ticket-holders get on the bus rst.) Ticket prices depend on the bus company and route. On international routes it is advisable to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes this is generally not necessary, however there are exceptions: On Fridays and Sundays buses to popular weekend destinations like Prnu or Tartu tend to ll up quickly, so buying your ticket earlier in the day will guarantee a spot. Get to the station by taking city trams N2 or 4 from the centre, or bus N17 next to the Solaris Centre, to the Bussijaam stop. QH-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. (+372) 12 550, info@bussijaam.ee, www.bussijaam.ee. Open 06:30 - 21:00.

BaSic DaTa
Tallinn Population: 429,574 (as of 01.11.2013) Density: 2,701.7 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 52.5%, Russians 38.5%, Ukrainians 3.7%, Others 5.4% Estonia Population: 1,294,455 (as of 12.12.2012) Territory: 45,227km2 Density: 28.6 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.7%, Russians 24.8%, Ukrainians 1.7%, Others 4.8% Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Baltics) is Suur Munamgi (318m) in Vru County Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Lakes: Lake Peipsi, on the Russian border, covers an area of 3,555km2, of which 1,529km2 is in Estonia. It also holds the title as the 4th largest lake in Europe. Rivers: Estonias longest rivers are the Vhandu 162km, Prnu 144km and Pltsamaa 135km. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Prnu 42,433, Kohtla-Jrve 37,201. Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.

CUSTOMS
European alcoholics rejoice! When you leave Estonia headed to another EU country, you can take out as much booze as you can carry (or convince inspectors is for your personal use). Coming into Estonia from another EU country, each individual aged 18 and over may carry in duty-free 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer and 10 litres of hard alcohol (over 21%alc/vol), 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars and 1kg of pure tobacco. When leaving, beware of stricter tobacco restrictions if youre headed to the UK, Sweden or Finland. Relatively unlucky travellers from non-EU countries can carry in a measly 4 litres of wine (not exceeding 175 in combined value), 2 litres of beverages up to 21%alc/vol and 1 litre of hard alcohol; 40 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 50g pure tobacco. How much booze and smokes you can take home depends on your own countrys restrictions. For more information, contact the Customs Department, Narva mnt. 9j, tel. 880 08 14, tolliinfo@emta.ee, www. emta.ee.

iNTERNaTiONaL BUS ScHEDULE

riga 06:00, 06:30*, 07:00, 08:30, 09:30*, 10:00, 12:45, 13:15*, 16:00, 16:15*, 17:00, 18:30, 19:00*, 22:30. Bus ride takes 4 to 4,5 hours. Prices starting from 14. st.petersbUrg 06:00, 06:10*, 07:00, 08:00, 09:15*, 10:15, 11:35, 13:45*, 14:30, 15:00, 16:45*, 21:30*, 23:00, 23:40, 23:59. Bus ride takes 7,5 to 9 hours. Express lines marked in bold. Prices starting from 15. vilniUs 06:00, 06:30*, 10:00, 13:15*, 22:30. Bus ride takes 8 to 9 hours. Express lines marked in bold. Prices starting from 13. * Lines operated by Ecolines, others by Lux Express. Scedule valid as of January 15, 2014. Please note that Tallinn In Your Pocket does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider. 10 Tallinn In Your Pocket

ELEcTRiciTY
The electrical current is 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Sockets take the standard, round-pinned European plugs.

NaTiONaL HOLiDaYS
January 1 New Years Day February 24 Independence Day (1918) April 18 (2014) Good Friday April 20 (2014) Easter Sunday May 1 May Day June 23 Victory Day (1919 battle of Vnnu-Cesis in Latvia) June 24 St. Johns Day (Midsummer) August 20 Day of Restoration of Inde- pendence (1991) December 24 Christmas Eve December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Boxing Day February - March 2014 11

TOURiST iNfORMaTiON
ToUrist Information Centre The citys ocial tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question.QC-2, Niguliste 2/ Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 645 77 77, fax (+372) 645 77 78, turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee, www.tourism. tallinn.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 15:00. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Basics
GETTiNG caSH
You should have no problems lling your wallet in Tallinn - cash machines (ATMs) are never hard to nd. Big banks are usually your best bet for exchanging currency. At night and on weekends, however, decent exchanges are more elusive. Tavid at Aia 5 has good rates, especially when changing somewhat larger amounts and also runs an all-night exchange window that will do in a pinch. Their night rates are higher than daytime rates though. Another place that oers very good rates is Eurex at Viru vljak 4 (Viru Centre). Although there arent as many as there used to be, beware of some of the various small exchanges around town. These have convenient locations and working hours, but generally give unfavourable rates and even many charge a heavy commission on each transaction even when they state in big bold letters No Commission, ie. read the ne print. as most banks around the world stock this currency. Standard Euro denominations are legal tender, however you may nd it dicult to pay with any bills over 50. All ATMs operate on international systems. Credit cards are easy to use - major hotels, most restaurants and a pretty much all downtown shops accept Visa, Mastercard and EC. American Express, Globus and Diners Club are less common.

Basics
ESTONiaNiSM
Noh ... Well.../Um... This sounds like No, but actually just means the speaker is temporarily tongue-tied On ju? Eks ju? Right? Isnt it? Two interjections that punctuate Estonian speech Head isu! Bon appetit! ...or Good Appetite, as you will sometimes hear Jtku leiba! May there be enough bread! begins a meal. The polite answer is... Jtku tarvis. Its needed.

RELiGiON
Some locals will tell you that Estonians are all tree-worshiping pagans at heart, but the truth is that this isnt a very religious country at all. There is no state religion, and according to the 2000 census, only 31.8% of the population claims any religious aliation. Of those that do, about 180,000 are Lutheran and 170,000 Russian Orthodox.

ETHNic GROUpS
About 68% of Estonias population is made up of ethnic Estonians, descendents of Finno-Ugric tribes that settled this area about 5,000 years ago. The largest minority in todays Estonia is by far the Russians, at roughly 26% of the national population. Along with Ukrainians and Byelorussians, thousands of Russians moved or were sent here during Soviet times, and chose to remain after independence. Though some integration is taking place among the younger generation, language and cultural barriers tend to keep Estonians and Russian-speakers apart.

LaNGUaGE
Confused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely unrelated to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any other Indo-European tongue. Along with Finnish and Hungarian, Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages, thought to have originated somewhere beyond the Urals thousands of years ago. Luckily, the younger generation and those in the tourist industry speak English. You can nd some of the more essential words and phrases on the opposite page.

TaX fREE SHOppiNG

Tax-free shopping is nally starting to gain popularity in Estonia and if you are a non-EU resident and plan to spend over 38 on electronics, clothing or even souvenirs - it just might be worth trying to claim the tax back. When making a purchase just present your passport, ask for a taxfree stamp on your receipt and take receipts along with unused purchases to the customs oce at the airport or border-crossings into Russia when you leave the country. At the airport, anything checked into luggage will need to be claimed at Customs before you enter the security gates, items in your hand luggage can be claimed from the Customs booth between gates 5 and 7. Visit www.globalrefund.com for more details.

Judu tle! Power to your work! Expression of goodwill, used when you come upon someone hard at work Judu tarvis Power needed The formulaic answer Tervist! Lit. Health! Ole tubli! Gesundheit!/Bless you! Take care, be good!

pUBLic TOiLETS
Study your geometry to avoid an embarrassing situation: A triangle pointing down signies the mens room (M or Meeste), while the triangle pointing up is the womens room (N or Naiste). Visitors with pressing needs wont be left with their legs crossed, as there are quite a few public toilets around the city. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (C-3) and theres a Swedish-built automatic WC on Toompea Hill (C-1), nicknamed locally the millioncrown toilet due to the public outcry at its construction bill. It can be found next to the Nevski Cathedral (C/D-1). Theres also a few new high-tech, self-cleaning ones around the city. The most central is right next to Tammsaare Park (C-3), and others can be found at; Toompark near Balti Jaam (B-1), Police Garden (H-3, on Gonsiori street), Kanuti Garden (B-4), Piiskopi Garden (C-1) and in Kadriorg next to the Roheline aas Street parking lot (H-4). However, the fear of being trapped inside may deter the more easily frightened, no matter how badly they need to pee. 12 Tallinn In Your Pocket

MONEY
In 2011 Estonia joined the common European currency, good news for all of the tourists who visit Estonia from countries that already use the Euro. If you happen to come from a country that does not use the Euro, it should also be easier to change your money before you arrive

Kuidas ksi kib? How are you? Lit. How does the hand go? Ikka kib Still goin Typically laconic Estonian reply

ViSaS
Estonia is in the European Union and lucky EU citizens can conveniently enter the country with just a national ID card. All others need valid passports. You can enter Estonia visa-free and stay 90 days if youre a citizen of any EU country, Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Argentina, South Korea and a number of other countries listed on the website below. All others, including South Africans, Russians, Belorusians and Ukrainians do need a visa to come to Estonia. Because of the Schengen Border Treaty, anyone requiring a visa for Schengen countries only need to obtain a visa from one of these countries in order to visit Estonia. Anyone staying in Estonia for more than 90 days (180 days for UK citizens) needs either a residence permit or a visa, though there are certain very specific exceptions for EU citizens. For all the details, contact the consular department of the Foreign Ministry, tel. 631 74 40, or check their website, www.vm.ee, which has more information than youll ever need.

fREE iNTERNET fOR aLL

By now, most have heard that Estonia is indeed a pretty tech-savy country. In fact much of the country is blanketed in WiFi or wireless internet hotspots. From longdistance buses to cafe, pubs and even some shops and public areas - WiFi is everywhere. For foreigners visiting Tallinn this means youll be able to check e-mails, SKYPE with friends back home or share photos on Facebook using your Android phone, iPhone or Blackberry - free of charge. Just look for the orange and black WiFi sign and youre good to go. With all that free WiFi around, youll also want to purchase the Tallinn In Your Pocket iPhone app available here. In Estonia, WiFi information including WiFi locations is provided by www.WiFi.ee. February - March 2014 13

MaKiNG THE caLL

Calling within Estonia To call any number within Estonia, either from a xed line or a local mobile, just dial the number as its written. There are no city codes in Estonia. Mobile numbers Estonian mobile numbers all begin with 5. Just dial the number as is. Again, there are no special codes. Calling Estonia from abroad Estonias country code is +372. Just dial your international access code (00 from most European countries), then 372 then the number, be it mobile or land line. Thats it. Roaming To call any telephone in Estonia from a foreign mobile account, dial +372 followed by the number, as outlined before. Calling abroad from Estonia Dial 00, the country code, then the rest of the numbers. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Emergency number - 112

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

History
ESTONia THROUGH THE aGES
3,000BC Finno-Ugric tribes arrive from the east and settle along the north Baltic coast, mixing with Neolithic tribes. 1st Century Roman historian Tacitus writes of a local tribe called Aestii. 12th Century In 1154, Arab cartographer al-Idrisi marks Tallinn on his map as Koluvan, describing it as a seasonal stronghold - the rst mention of the city in historic records. 13th Century In 1202 the Pope calls for a crusade against the pagans around the Baltic Sea. Bishop Albert founds the Order of the Knights of the Sword. This leads to four decades of bloody battles and shifting alliances among the Germans (based in Riga), Danes, Swedes, Russians, Lithuanians and local tribes. In 1219 King Voldemar II of Denmark takes the stronghold of the north Estonian Rvala people as a base for his forces (hence the name Tallinn: Taani = Danish, linn = city). German merchants settle the town, and in 1248 are granted the right to use Lbeck Law, effectively making Tallinn an autonomous entity. In the 1280s, Tallinn joins the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities. 14th Century Estonian towns become important trading links between East and West and grow in size and strength. Ethnic Estonians, however, remain serfs while German landowners reap the benets. The bloody St Georges Night Uprising of 1343 convinces the Danish King to sell his provinces to the German Knights two years later. 16th Century Estonians suffer another bout of shifting borders and imposed military service during the Livonian War (15581583). Ivan the Terrible advances claims on Estonia. Denmark and Poland enter the fray, but Sweden quickly gains control of the territory. Intermittent warfare with Poland lasts into the next century. 17th Century The Swedish period in Estonian history is marked by cultural advancement. Tartu University opens in 1632 and by the close of the century nearly every parish has a school. In 1645 Denmark cedes Saaremaa to Sweden, joining Estonia under a single force for the rst time. 18th Century Sweden battles Russia, Denmark and Poland in the Northern War (1700-1721), losing Estonia to Russia in 1710. During the 200 years of tsarist rule that follow, Estonias peasants live in the same conditions of near-slavery as the serfs of Russia. In 1739 the Bible is published in Estonian. 14 Tallinn In Your Pocket 19th Century So-called Estophiles study the local language and found consciousness-raising societies. Literacy spreads and Estonian-language periodicals appear. The second half of the century is marked by the National Awakening: the formation of a national consciousness among Estonians and an active period of scholarship and literary creation. The rst song festival, held in Tartu in 1869, represents the rst public demonstration of Estonian national identity. Tsar Alexander III sties this when he comes to the throne in 1881, initiating a period of intense Russication. 1970s and 80s, Finnish TV broadcasts give Tallinn residents a glimpse of life in the West. 1956 Surviving Estonians who had been deported to Siberia are allowed to return. 1977 February 24 The blue-black-white ag rises illegally over the Vanemuine Theatre in Tartu to mark the 59th anniversary of the rst Estonian Republic. 1980 July 19-August 3 Moscow Olympic Games. Tallinns Olympic yachting centre, Pirita and Olmpia hotels and airport terminal are built for the occasion.

History
A NEw REpUBLic
1992 After prices rose by 629% in 1991, the government introduces ration coupons. June 20 The Estonian kroon becomes the first national currency introduced in the former Soviet Union. 1994 September 28 852 people perish when the 15,000-tonne ferry Estonia sinks en route to Stockholm. 2004 March 29 Estonia joins NATO. May 1 Estonia becomes an EU member as the bloc expands to encompass ten new states. 2007 April 26 - 27 Street riots, mainly involving young, ethnic Russians, break out after protests over the relocation of a Soviet Army monument from the city centre. December 21 Estonia joins Schengen. 2011 January 1 Estonia joins the common European curreny Euro. 2013 January 1 Tallinn becomes the rst capital city in the EU to provide its citizens with free public transportation.

THE fiRST REpUBLic

Estonia takes advantage of the chaos in Russia caused by WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution, declaring independence on February 24, 1918. But by the end of February, Germany takes the infant country by force. When Germany capitulates in November Red forces move in. The War for Independence lasts 13 months. In the Tartu Peace Treaty, signed February 2, 1920, Soviet Russia renounces claims to the territory for all time. In 1921 the Republic of Estonia is accepted into the League of Nations. Reforms progress quickly and social welfare laws are on a par with those in Europe. A political crisis in the mid-1930s brings the young republic to the verge of authoritarianism. President Konstantin Pts bans political parties and restricts civil rights but maintains popular support.

ROaD TO iNDEpENDENcE
1987 What had started as a series of environmental protests quickly develops into a new National Awakening as demonstrations against the system become more open. 1988 June 10-14 Over 100,000 people a night pack the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. The events of the summer are henceforth known as the Singing Revolution. September 11 More than 300,000 Estonians gather at the Song Grounds and hear Trivimi Velliste make the rst public demand for independence. November 16 In a move known as the beginning of the end for the Soviet Union, the Supreme Soviet of the Estonian SSR passes a declaration of sovereignty. 1989 February 24 The Estonian ag is raised over Tallinn, inciting protests and massive strikes. August 23 Two million people join hands along the 600km road between Tallinn and Vilnius to mark the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. November 12 The Estonian Supreme Soviet nullifies Estonias entry into the USSR. 1990 March 23 The Estonian Communist Party declares independence from the central party. May 8 The ESSR is ocially renamed the Republic of Estonia, despite not yet having declared independence. 1991 March 3 78% of voters cast their vote for independence in a referendum. August 19 During the failed Moscow coup, additional Soviet military units are moved to Estonia from Pskov, Russia. August 20 Estonia declares independence. August 23 Lenins statue comes down in Tallinn. August 24 Russia recognises Estonian independence. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

WORLD WaR II
On August 23, 1939, the USSR and Germany sign the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact, in which secret protocols carve Eastern Europe into spheres of inuence. On June 16, 1940, the USSR accuses the Baltic states of aggression and demands the right to occupy them. Elections take place July 14 - 15, with Soviet-approved candidates. The phoney parliament applies for admittance to the USSR, which is granted August 6. WWII continues to rage across Europe and by the end of 1941 the Nazis win Estonia from the Soviets. The German occupation lasts three years. Soviet forces begin air attacks March 15, 1942, and cause serious damage in the infamous attack of March 9, 1944. By September the Germans have ed. Estonia is declared a Republic again on September 18, but Soviet forces reach Tallinn four days later.

wHaTS iN a NaME
The evolution of the name Tallinn is a confusing one. Tallinns rst world map appearance was in 1154 when Arabian geographer Abu Abdallah Muhammad al-Idrisi called it Qaleveni. In ancient Russian chronicles the same name appears as Kolvan, supposedly from the word kaleva or kalva which means something solid or strong. In the rst half of the 13th century Henric the Lett called Tallinn Lyndanise in his Livonian Chronicle. Soon afterwards the more commonly known German name, Reval. The actual name Tallinn is from the Danish period (1219-1346). In 1219 the Danish King Waldemar II conquered northern Estonia and built his own stone fortress at Toompea. The Danes then referred to Tallinn as Castrum Danorum, which basically means Danish castle. Translated into Estonian it became tannin lidna or taani-linn. Abbreviate this and its easy to see how you get Tallinn. Even after the Danes left, many Estonians continued to use the name Tallinn while almost everyone else preferred Reval. It was only in 1918 after independence from Russia that Reval was totally dropped. For a while both Tallinn and Tallinna were then used. In 1925 Tallinna was declared ocial, but soon after Estonia changed its mind and in 1933 Tallinn became the nal name for the capital city. February - March 2014 15

SOViET OccUpaTiON
In the first years of the renewed Soviet regime, 36,000 Estonians are arrested and accused of aiding the Nazis. At the same time 30,000 - 35,000 people ee to the woods to resist the regime as Forest Brothers. In the years following, Estonia endures political repression and isolation, while Estonians who had ed to the West try to keep their culture alive in exile. During the post-Stalin period, life in Estonia takes on a bureaucratic routine similar to that found elsewhere in the USSR. Over the coming decades, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Russians are sent to live in the Estonian territory. In the tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple art-house cinemas. If you are still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee. WINTER SWIMMING FESTIVAL 2014 February 22, river pool will be located on the dockside of river Pirita, http://piritaopen.blogspot.com/. Personally we only jump into freezing cold water after a sauna and the coldest temperature of the water has been was about 4-6c. Some people have also called us crazy for doing so. At any rate, participants at this years festival should be commended, or committed to an institution, for braving the freezing temps to jump into a hole in the ice in the Pirita River - at the beginning of March. If you feel the need to dive into a cold wet hole yourself, organisers assure us you will still be able to sign up the day of the eventand youll be happy to know that if you sign up in advance, theyll only charge you 20 for a single swimmer or 30 for a team. See website for all the details. SIMPEL SESSION 2014 February 22 - 23, Saku Suurhall (p.21), www.session.ee. Over the years, Simpel Session has grown from a local competition to an internationally recognised, and loved, extreme sports event. Every year it draws more and more foreign competitors and known riders - reaching an audience of millions around the world through Youtube and various media outlets. Simpel Session is a weekend full of spectacular thrills and spills with around 200 top cyclists and skateboarders from all over the world. Among other things, Simpel Session will allow spectators to vicariously enjoy top-ranking international and Estonian skateboarding and BMX stars. As always, the competition will take place in an infectious and unbridled atmosphere. A two-day event pass costs 25. DOGSHOW 2014 March 01 - 02, Saku Suurhall (p.21), www. sakusuurhall.ee, www.dogshow.ee. How much is that doggy in the window? Canines from all over Estonia and Baltic countries will make their way to Saku Suurhall to try and prove that they are - well, top dog. In what has become an annual event, the local dogs have been practising all year and with their reputations and some serious trophies at stake they are all pretty nervous about it. We wish these pedigrees all the best in what is bound to be a pretty hairy competition. Certainly a must for those who enjoy Doggy Style. OPEN YOUR EYES, OPEN YOUR HEART! Pille Lill Music Fund presents:

Culture & Events

THE NEw IN YOUR POCKET
Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, we have taken on board hundreds of comments we have received over the past few years to come up with a new format for our guides to make them more dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while still ensuring that we point your way to all of those quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope that the changes are met with approval by all our readers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be they good or bad or indifferent. Only by listening to our readers can we make In Your Pocket even better. Send your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email address editor@inyourpocket.com, and follow us on both Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) to keep up with all the latest developments at In Your Pocket. THIRTY SECONDS TO MARS

MaiN EVENTS
MUSTONEN FEST 2014 January 30 - February 08, Estonia Concert Hall, St. James' Church, Niguliste Church, www.concert.ee. This annual festival devoted to Baroque music takes place all over Estonia with the majority of shows being held in Tallinn.This year this focus is on bringing Baroque music to the masses - they claim that Baroque as a musical style isnt dead but instead a living entity that can also change and progress as time goes on. The performers come from Estonia and all over Europe. Expect a lot of Latin with the occasional motets and a swansong thrown in for good measure. A must attend for fans of the genre. Tickets starting from 5. FED CUp 2014. EUrope - Africa GroUp III toUrnament February 5 - 8, Tere Tennis Centre, A four-day event pass costs 10, www.tennis.ee, www.piletilevi.ee. Womens teams from Africa and Europe will battle it out with balls and rackets on the court in Tallinn. The Estonian team will consist of Kaia Kanepi (ranked 15th in the world in 2012), Anett Kontaveit, Eva Paalma, Tatjana Vorobjova and Maret Ani. Naturally the skirts will be ying, the ponytails bobbing and more than a few loud grunts uttered by some of the more spirited ladies as they try to make it to the next round. If youre a tennis fan though, this is truly a great way to watch some world-class players in action and a four-day pass will only set you back 10. RUsseL Brand - Messiah CompLeX February 21, Nokia Concert Hall (p.21), www.ticketpro. ee. The world renowned comedian and actor brings his brand of humour to Tallinn: The Messiah Complex is a mental disorder where the suerer thinks they might be the messiah. Did Jesus have it? What about Che Guevara, Gandhi, Malcolm X and Hitler? All these men have shaped our lives and inuenced the way we think. Their images are used to represent ideas that often do not relate to them at all. Would Gandhi be into Apple? Would Che Guevara endorse Madonna? Should we even care what they think considering Gandhi slept with naked girls in his bed, Malcolm X dealt drugs and Che Guevara smelt funny? All great people are awed, all of us, awed people are capable of greatness and for every identiable icon there is an anonymous mob of unrecognised bods doing all the admin and heavy lifting. This show looks at the importance of heroes in this age of atheistic disposability. Plus theres sex. Obviously. 16 Tallinn In Your Pocket

8th Tallinn Winter Festival

February 12th at 6pm February 13th at 3pm February 14th at 6pm
Great Guild Hall Hopner House National Library of Estonia Teachers House Chandelier Hall
Tickets via Piletilevi and at the door (58 ) www.piletilevi.ee

11-20 February 2014 February 11th at 3pm

Swedish St Michaels Church

February 15th at 7pm February 18th at 6pm February 19th at 6pm

Hopner House

Swedish St Michaels Church National Library of Estonia

February 20th at 6pm

SHROVE TUESDAY AT THE OPEN AIR MUSEUM March 02 and 04, Estonian Open Air Museum (p.32), www.evm.ee. Shrove Tuesday is the last day of winter fun and feasting before the season of Lent and fasting. On this day, people eat pigs feet and rich pea soup, carve spinningtops out of bone, play Shrovetide games and slide over the snow as far as they can. Its all part of ancient fertility rituals and ensuring that the year ahead will be a good one. In the old days, Shrove Tuesday was a womens holiday, and the fairer sex were forbidden from doing almost any work. Instead, they would go to the tavern, have a drink, dance and predict the future using the thigh bones of a pig - when that was all over they would come home and ravish their men. Not sure how much ravishing will be done at the Open Air Museum, but it should be a lot of fun at any rate. Entrance to museum 2 - 3. The RoyaL PhiLarmonic Concert Orchestra & Metro Voices March 20, Nokia Concert Hall, www.ticketpro.ee. The Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra was formed in 1987 and has built up an international reputation in its own right. Performing in the major concert halls and venues around the world, the RPCO is known for its versatile programming of classical, light classical and popular music. Joining them will be the equally talented choir Metro Voices who have recorded with a huge variety of artists including Bjork, Joni Mitchell, Sir Elton John and Michael Jackson and the list goes on. This amazing show gives the audience a unique chance to hear real masterpieces of rock music in a classical interpretation. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Love Lust faith + Dreams World Tour March 20, Saku Suurhall (p.21), www. ticketpro.ee. Headed up by actor Jared Leto (Fight Club, Requiem For a Dream), this American rock band has actually found a decent amount of acclaim at home and abroad. Now in Tallinn for their second time and with a 'Top Ten' album under their belts, it seems that Mars might not be too far off - I cant believe we just wrote that ... for the second time. TALLINN MUSIC WEEK March 27 - 29, Concert venues around Tallinn, www. tallinnmusicweek.ee. Tallinn Music Week started in 2009 with a plan to introduce the entire world to Estonian music, from jazz and folk to punk and metal. A kind of crash course in Estonian music was born, which will fill all of Tallinns clubs, theatres and cellar bars with the freshest and most exciting Estonian music there is. Tallinn Music Week will be attended by many movers and shakers from the European music scene. Invitees include festival directors, organisers, managers, agents, record companies, publishers and journalists from prestigious international media publications. Tallinn Music Week is a large-scale party for Estonians and foreign fans and an opportunity for talented Estonian musicians to get noticed outside the countrys borders. February - March 2014 17

wHERE TO GET TicKETS

Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletilevi C-4, Viru Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 44, www.piletilevi.ee. Ticketpro, D/E-3/4, Solaris Centre, Estonia pst. 9, tel. 624 80 32, www.ticketpro.ee. Estonias major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box oce in Tallinn at E-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 00, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

cULTURaL cENTRE
The SoLaris Centre Rising out of the ashes from a former soviet landmark, this all-in-one entertainment complex comes complete with a state of the art cinema, concert hall, shopping and dining facilities. Solaris even sports a decent amount of plant life, in fact the only thing it doesnt have is a hotel and if it did there would be really no reason to leave.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 51 00, info@solaris.ee, www.solaris.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. JULEKW

aRT GaLLERiES & MUSEUMS

There are loads of little galleries and culturally-oriented museums in Tallinn, here we have listed some of the more important and centrally-located ones. Adamson-Eric MUseUm The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16th-century in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. Through March 16: Creative Dialogue. The Artist Couple Mari Adamson and Adamson-Eric.QC-1/2, Lhike jalg 3, tel. (+372) 644 58 35/(+372) 644 58 38, adamson-eric@ekm.ee, www.adamson-eric.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2.50. J AppLied Art MUseUm Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set o by irregular white walls. Through February 23: Classics. Mait Summatavet. Through February 23: COMPANY Aamu Song & Johan Olin. Through June 01: Between Art and Industry. The Art Products Factory.QB-2, Lai 17, tel. (+372) 627 46 00/ (+372) 627 46 11, info@etdm.ee, www.etdm.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4. J City GaLLery (LinnaGaLerii) A rapidly changing rotation of contemporary, and often boldly experimental, art exhibitions. Through February 23: Maria Sidljarevit. You Broke My Life. February 27 March 23: E. Jansons. A Couple of Couples.QD-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, info@kunstihoone.ee, www. kunstihoone.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. J DesiGn & ArchitectUre GaLLery Changing exhibition of Estonian product design.QD-3, Prnu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 627 36 30. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. J Draakoni GaLLery The famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. February 02 - 15: Marianne Jgi. February 17 - March 01: Katarina Meister. March 03 - 15: Anna Hbeme. March 17 - 29: Agur Kruusing.QC-2, Pikk 18, tel. (+372) 646 41 10, galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex.htm. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. J HobUsepea GaLLery The Estonian Artists Union operates this cosy, twostorey gallery. February 05 - 17: August Sai. February 19 - March 03: Paco Ulman. March 05 - 24: Andres Tali. March 26 - April 07: Raul Keller.QB/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 627 67 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/ hobusepea/hindex.htm. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

MaJOR aRT MUSEUMS

KadriorG PaLace - Art MUseUm You could easily say that Peter the Greats spectacular Northern Baroque palace is a work of art in and of itself, but the palace is also home to Estonias museum of foreign art. Paintings by 16th- 18th-century Dutch, German, Italian and masters, as well as 18th - 19th-century Russian works make up most of whats on display. Intriguing examples of sculpture, porcelain and glass can also be found here. Through March 09: When the Artist Met Clio. Historical Scenes from the 19th Century.QG-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. (+372) 606 64 03/(+372) 606 64 00, kadriorg@ekm.ee, www. kadriorumuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.80. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 5.20. KUmU Winning the title European Museum of the Year 2008 , Estonias largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cli in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonias past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Through April 19: Lepo Mikko. January 24 - May 18: Electromagnetic. Modern Art in Northern Europe 1918-1931.QG-5, Weizenbergi 34/ Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602 60 00/(+372) 602 60 01, kumu.info@ ekm.ee, www.kumu.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to permanent exhibition 4.20, contemporary art 2.60, all exhibitions 5.50. TaLLinn Art HaLL & GaLLery Drop into this imposing 1930s-era building on Vabaduse square to nd some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Halls separate, smaller gallery (where admission is free) next door at Vabaduse vljak 6 hosts separate exhibitions. February 07 - March 16: International exhibition Password - Printmaking. February 13 - March 09: Dances with Architecture. March 13 - April 06: Time. H. Eelma graphics.QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, info@kunstihoone.ee, www.kunstihoone.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.50. J 18 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Culture & Events

KULLo ChiLdrens GaLLery Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling house, Kullo hosts workshops for children and highlights works by the coming generation of Estonian artists.QC-2, Kuninga 6, tel. (+372) 644 68 73, galerii@kullo.ee, www.kullo.ee/Kullo Lastegalerii. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 2. J MikkeL MUseUm Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum has one of Estonias most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. Through March 02: In The Beginning Was The Word. Historical Bibles from Jaan Parusks Collection.QG-5, Weizenbergi 28 (Kadriorg Palace), tel. (+372) 601 58 44/(+372) 601 34 30, mikkel@ekm. ee, www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2.50. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 5.20. MUseUm of Estonian ArchitectUre Tallinns architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiousity. The permanent exhibit on the main oor features architectural models from the museums collection. Temporary exhibitions are held on the other oors. Through February 23: Architect Ado Eigi. Through March 09: Architecture in Kaunas Between 2 World Wars.QB-4, Ahtri 2, tel. (+372) 625 70 07, info@ arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, www.arhitektuurimuuseum. ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to full house 4. NiGUListe MUseUm - Concert haLL This 13th century Gothic church, now an aliate of the Estonian Art Museum, houses a fascinating collection of medieval art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries and a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers. Not to be missed is the famous fragment of Bernt Notkes 15th-century masterpiece, Dance Macabre. Organ concerts Sat, Sun 16:00. Through December 31, 2015: Rode Altarpiece in Close-up.QC/D-2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30/(+372) 644 99 03, niguliste@ekm.ee, www. nigulistemuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.50. J

Culture & Events

iNDEpENDENcE DaY
Back in 1918, Estonia was in a very tenuous position. The recent collapse of the Russian empire fuelled an already mounting drive for political independence, and turmoil in the newly formed USSR prompted the Estonian Constituent Assembly to vote to part ways with its old ruler. World War I was still raging however. Estonia was invaded both by German forces and later by Soviet troops in the following months. It was only after an ensuing 13-month war, in which Estonia managed (with a considerable degree of foreign help) to keep the Soviets at bay, that independence was nally realised. A generation later, World War II ended with a Soviet occupation that eectively annulled the new state, and for ve decades its independence day could only be marked by Estonians living in exile. But on February 24, 1989, as part of the push to re-establish independence, the Estonian ag was raised on Toompea castle and has remained there ever since.

ciNEMaS
Tallinns cinemas are fairly central, and all lms except kids lms are shown in their original language with Estonian subtitles. You can always nd out whats playing by calling the 1182 infoline. Operators speak English. Artis Tallinns two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent lms, Estonian productions, shorts and kids lms. Tickets 5 - 6.50.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 663 13 80, info@kino.ee, www.kino.ee. Show times vary, see website for details. Coca-CoLa PLaZa This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most peoples rst stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now even featuring a 3D theatre. Tickets for evening shows cost 5.50 - 6.90, 3D costs 7.50 - 8.40.QG-3, Hobujaama 5, tel. (+372) 1182, info@forumcinemas.ee, www. forumcinemas.ee. KinomaJa Run by Estonias cinema union, the Cinema House concentrates on the esoteric and obscure.QC-3, Uus 3, tel. (+372) 646 40 68, kinomaja@kinoliit.ee, www. kinomaja.ee. See website for show times. JW Kino SprUs Now operating on a regular basis, this is the kind of place cinemaphiles hang out at. These art house lms are often European or Estonian productions, but be warned - you may not be able to see them with English subtitles. Truly for the more hardcore among cinema viewers. See website for schedule. Opens one hour before seance - not really sure what that means, but Bela Lugosi might also be in attendance. Tickets 5.QD-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 644 19 19, info@ kinosoprus.ee, kinosoprus.ee. J SoLaris Cinema Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most state of the art cinema in Tallinn. Tickets for evening shows cost 5.70 - 6.80, 3D - 7.60 - 8.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (+372) 16105, info@solariskino.ee, www. solariskino.ee. L 20 Tallinn In Your Pocket

CONcERT HaLLS
Estonia Concert HaLL The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert.QD-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372) 614 77 60, info@concert.ee, www.concert. ee. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00 On Sundays open one hour before scheduled concerts. J Estonian NationaL Opera Tallinns pride and joy hosts opera, ballet and frequent performances by internationally-renowned guests. Tickets cost up to 31.QD-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372) 683 12 10/ (+372) 683 12 15, info@opera.ee, www.opera.ee. Box office open 11:00 - 19:00. J NiGUListe MUseUm - Concert HaLL Organ music concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. For more on this 13th-century Gothic church, see What to see section.QC-2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 644 99 03, niguliste@ekm.ee, www. nigulistemuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J Nokia Concert HaLL Tallinn now has a world-class concert hall, complete with a stunning sound system and high-tech gadgetry. QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (+372) 615 51 11, info@ tallinnconcerthall.com, www.tallinnconcerthall.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00. JL SakU SUUrhaLL Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events.QPaldiski mnt. 104b, tel. (+372) 626 11 11/(+372) 660 02 00, sakusuurhall@sakusuurhall.ee, www.sakusuurhall.ee. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

iNTERNaTiONaL wOMENS DaY

Widely celebrated in Estonia, especially among Russians, International Womens Day does bring with it some negative connotations among Estonian women due to the fact that it brings back memories of the Soviet occupation. Before independence, International Womens Day was used to show women their supposed importance in society. It was quite a big celebration. Now, like many aspects of the Soviet past, theres often great eort to create distance between the past and present. Not that most women dont like to receive owers and candy though, so dont feel bad if you wish to give one or both of these items to an Estonian woman on this day. Its not that the modern Estonian woman doesnt believe in what International Womens Day represents, its more that they simply dont know about its international signicance. In general Estonian women are exceptionally hard working, independent and professionally minded. Statistics show women make up more than half of the current workforce and increasingly more women are appearing in the upper echelons of management. While still a little underrepresented in all levels of government, the future is promising. Especially given more women than men gain entry to university each year. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

ST.VaLENTiNES DaY
February 14 isnt a conventional Estonian celebration, but like most Western traditions, its gaining popularity, especially among younger Estonians. You may encounter locals taking part in the usual ower, chocolate and card-giving, but as its known here as Sbrapev or Friends Day, this takes place between friends as well as lovers. If you do celebrate Valentines Day in the traditional sense, the best place to buy owers is at the Viru Old Town entrance. Here youll nd everything from bouquets to single roses, some shops are even open 24 hours. Be warned that the giving of an even number of owers is generally reserved for funerals. That is until the stems exceed 10, at which time people stop counting and it doesnt really matter. Most special chocolates can be found at the chocolateries (see Cafs section). Interestingly, Estonians are more likely to publicly declare their love on the rst day of spring when couples meet at Kissing Hill, the park next to the Viru Gates, to engage in the activity for which the hill was named. February - March 2014 21

Sauna Culture
advances in technology mean that saunas are no longer conned to separate buildings or little huts in the woods, a lot of hotels and sports clubs have one or more saunas built in. Some inventive people even manage to squeeze two-person saunas into their tiny, Soviet-era apartments.If youre a rst-time visitor to Tallinn, or just someone whos curious about this important part of Estonian life, youll denitely want to make at least one sauna stop while youre here. What follows are some tips to make your sauna experience more rewarding, and to point out some fascinating sauna possibilities that go way beyond whats on oer in the average hotel. The most important thing to remember, however, is that the sauna is a social experience, so get together with some Estonian friends, pack up some bottles of beer, and head to where the steam is! When youre nice and sweaty, and comfortable with the temperature, you can take the viht or birch branches (sometimes provided, sometimes sold separately) and gently swat your back, torso and limbs. Better still, go the traditional route and let your sauna companion give you a hand. This is a kind of massage, and will supposedly increase your circulation and make you perspire more, getting rid of all those nasty toxins. The typical session, the time you sit in the sauna itself, lasts about ten minutes. By this time, you should be fairly well renched in your own perspiration, and ready to cool off. Of course, you should go at your own pace, and leave early if you feel dizzy or start to see mystical visions of Estonian folk dancers. As in Finland, Estonians like run out into the snow or jump in a cold lake after a sauna session, but lakes and private snow banks simply arent as available here, so many people skip this step. A shower is usually available to help you clean up. A post sauna drink and snack are a must.

Sauna Culture
HiSTORic SaUNa
KaLma SaUnA Built in 1928, Kalma is Tallinns oldest public sauna. It was designed with pride and features a fantastic Art Deco facade and is lled with the ambience that only a historic public bath could have. In fact, their mens sauna is actually the only public sauna in town that uses the traditional method of wood heating. Two private saunas are also available for hourly rent, both have very cosy relaxation rooms and one has a small dipping pool. Kalma is truly an experience and is merely a ve-minute walk away from the Old Town walls. QA-1, Vana-Kalamaja 9a, tel. (+372) 627 18 11, www. kalmasaun.ee. Open 11:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Men 8 - 9/person, women 6.50 - 8/person. Two private saunas also available for rent by the hour. N

A how-to guide
Some people insist theyre part of an important health ritual, a way to keep clean, or an unbeatable hangover cure. For most Estonians, however, saunas represent a way to relax, spend time with family and friends, and to warm up after a day out in the bone-chilling extremes of the Nordic winter. Though Estonias northern neighbour, Finland, is the undisputed sauna capital of the world (the very word sauna in English is actually borrowed straight from the Finnish), the practice of conning steam or heat to a conned area for bathing purposes is found in a number of world cultures. Japanese, Native Americans and Russians all have their versions of steam and sweat baths. The Estonian saun is thought to come from a rural sauna tradition that extends from the Baltic region to the Urals, so its no surprise that the development of sauna culture and practices here has a lot in common with that of Estonias neighbours. The aforementioned Finns will nd few dierences between their sauna designs and the ones in Estonia. Since the tradition dates back before written records were kept, theres no way of telling how long it has been going on in the country. First, get naked. Bathing suits in saunas are a rarity. Most public saunas will be single-sex or have times for men and women, though families and groups of friends often go in mixed groups. That said, if youre in a large bathhouse or health club, check the signs before running out naked into the common pool area and having your photo taken by the tabloid press or Tallinn In Your Pocket. Once youre ready, step into the sauna. Its good to bring a towel with you to sit on. Choose your bench carefully. Heat rises, and the top bench, especially when the ceiling is low, can be real scorcher. Though experts say 60 - 70 C is the optimal temperature for sweating, Estonians typically heat their saunas to 80 - 100C, sometimes as high as 110C. If youre a novice, start with the lower bench. After youve gotten used to the heat, it's time for leil. You take the dipper and scoop some of the water from the bucket and pour it over the stones. The eect of even a little water on the stones is instantaneous, so take it slow. Under no circumstances should you pour the whole bucket of water onto the stones. Even if you survive the resulting heat, your companions will probably kill you.

Selected saunas
CLUb 26 VIP SaUna On the 26th oor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia these private saunas, of which there are two, oer perhaps the best views one can have while enjoying a sauna in the city. Both include small swimming pools, lots of room and even a small balcony for cooling o or having a smoke. Catering also available from their Senso restaurant. 25/hour until 15:00, 50/hour after. See website for details and booking. QH-3, Liivalaia 33 (Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia), tel. (+372) 631 55 85/(+372) 631 53 00, olympia.club26@ radissonblu.com, www.club26.ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00. KaLev Spa HoteL & Water Park Kalev Spas three VIP saunas are fairly comfortable and quite decent for sweating it out with friends. VIP1 can accommodate about 6 people, VIP2 up to 10, VIP3 is the largest and can nicely t about 15 guests. Each has a hot-tub with jets and comfortable lounges to hang out in. Provided youre there during the water-park opening hours, youll also be able to enjoy a swim.Catering also available. 40 - 60/hour.QB-3/4, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 00, kalevspa@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee/peodseminarid/vip-saunad/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Meriton Grand Conference & Spa HoteL This is a respectable, ten-person sauna with a Jacuzzi and they oer various sauna menus including fruit plates, cheese plates, meat plates and sh plates. Prices vary according to how many are in your group 1 hour up to 6 people costs 35 and 7-12 people is 50 per hour.QG-2, Toompuiestee 27, tel. (+372) 667 71 00, reservations@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 24hrs.

The fact that theres even a Sauna street and a medieval Sauna Tower in Tallinns Old Town is, however, a good indicator of the importance of saunas in centuries past.
These days, while saunas are often still used for bathing by country folk, its much more common to nd them used for de-stressing, for warming up, and for parties. Because 22 Tallinn In Your Pocket

TO BEER OR NOT TO BEER?

Beer raises something of a sauna controversy. Aficionados will insist that alcohol and sauna dont mix, while others will claim that beer is an essential part of the sauna experience. The mainstream view, however, is that consuming beer is fine, but that it should be done only after the sauna session. Sauna is a somewhat extreme experience, and lowering your heart rate further with alcohol can leave you feeling sluggish or worse. tallinn.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

February - March 2014

23

Sightseeing
Given its age (over 800 years old) and its fascinating history, Tallinn is chalk-full of sights, museums and countless stories to help you pass the time rather interestingly. Here youll nd the must-sees and a whole lot more. Find Tourist Information Point in the Basics section. ALeXander Nevsky CathedraL Toompeas dominating landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral named for the duke who attacked southeastern Estonia and Pskov in the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander III ordered the cathedral designed in 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail Preobrazhensky and it was completed in 1900. According to legend, the cathedral was built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suered structurally as a result.QC/D-1, Lossi plats 10, tel. (+372) 644 34 84, www. orthodox.ee. Services in Russian Mon - Fri 08:30 ;17:00, Sat 08:30, Sun 09:30. In Estonian Sat 11:00. Admission free. J Danish KinGs Garden (Taani KUninGa aed) One of the most picturesque and secluded locations in Old Town, the Danish Kings Garden is lled with trees, benches, little nooks and a great view of the Niguliste Church spire. The best time to visit the garden is at night with the medieval walls at your back and the beautifully lit lower town roofs providing ambience. It also features two of Tallinns fortication towers, Neitsitorn (Virgins Tower) and Tallitorn (Stable Tower).QD-1, Lhike jalg 9a. J Dome ChUrch (CathedraL of Saint Mary the VirGin) (Toomkirik) What might be the oldest church in Estonia was founded in 1219 by the rst wave of Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates to the 14th century, but the interior was rebuilt after the 1684 re. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this humbling location. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday service.QC-1, Toomkooli 6, tel. (+372) 644 41 40, tallinna.toom@eelk. ee, www.eelk.ee/tallinna.toom. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon Services in Estonian Sun 11:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admission free. J Kiek in de Kk (Peep into the Kitchen) Built 1475 - 1481, this 45m, sixstorey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IVs cannonballs embedded in its walls to prove it. Medieval soldiers joked that from its top, they could see right into the kitchens of the houses below - hence the odd name. The tower now operates as a museum. QD-1/2, Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@ linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 4.50. Joint ticket with the Bastion Tunnels 8.30. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing
LOwER TOwN
Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the world came in through the port and were traded on the market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However, Estonian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where they could eventually be considered free. Town HaLL SQUare (RaekoJa PLats) As a medieval market and a modern meeting place, Town Hall Square, has been the heart of city life for eight centuries. With the Town Hall at your back, you can survey some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn. Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked with a compass rose. From here, if you stretch, you can see the tops Tallinns ve most famous spires.QC/D-2. Town HaLL (Raekoda) The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building of today dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530. Most of the year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted halls, however from July till August Town Hall is open for all visitors.QD-2, Raekoja plats 1, tel. (+372) 645 79 00, raekoda@tallinnlv.ee, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission 4. JN HoLy Spirit ChUrch (Pha VaimU kirik) This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well as an ornate, outdoor clock thats said to be one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and poor, and it was here that the rst sermons were given in Estonian after the Reformation.QC-2/3, Phavaimu 2, tel. (+372) 644 14 87/(+372) 646 44 30, tallinna.puhavaimu@eelk.ee, www.eelk. ee/tallinna.puhavaimu. Open 10:00 - 15:00. Services in English 15:00 every Sunday. Classical music hour Mon 18:00. Entrance fee 1. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket Dominican Monastery One of Tallinns oldest existing buildings is this monastery founded in 1246. The part of the monastery administered by the museum includes the courtyard and surrounding passageways, where fascinating 15th- and 16th-century stone carvings are on display. QC-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 515 54 89/(+372) 644 46 06, info@kloostri.ee, www. kloostri.ee. J NiGUListe ChUrch - MUseUm Tallinns most famous work of art, a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notkes spooky, 15th-century masterpiece Dance Macabre, has its home in this 13th-century Gothic church-turned art museum. Destroyed during World War II and rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a silver chamber. The church is also known for its acoustics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00.QC-2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 631 43 30/(+372) 644 99 03 tours, niguliste@ekm.ee, www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue Admission 3.50. J St. Catherines PassaGe (Katariina Kik) One of the prettiest little walkways in all of Old Town, the medieval St. Catherines passage connects Vene and Mrivahe streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can nd whats left of St. Catherines Church (hence the passage name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of the passage, youll nd numerous artisan workshops, where youll even get see them hard at work creating new items for you to buy. At any rate, were sure youll nd Katarina Kik, a pretty nice hike.QC-3. St. OLafs ChUrch (OLeviste Kirik) St. Olafs 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625. An old legend claims that the church was built to attract more merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered his name (Olev). In reality, the church took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Havaldsson. The rst mention of the church dates to 1267, but the interior dates to 1840 and reects that eras Historicist bent. QB-3, Lai 50, tel. (+372) 641 22 41, oleviste@oleviste.ee, www. oleviste.ee. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thu 18:30 (prayer). Admission free. J February - March 2014 25

THE OLD TOwN

Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, whats now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

TOOMpEa HiLL
Climb Pikk jalg and youll nd yourself on Castle Square (Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century symbol of the Tsars power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn, where the Knights of the Sword built a fortress in 1229. ViewinG pLatforms The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli view platforms are usually the rst place that tourists want to see when they visit Tallinn. From here, sweeping views of the town, its red-tiled roofs, its towers, its walls and all of its charm open up. Get your camera ready.QC-1/2. Toompea CastLe Built on the spot where the ancient Estonians wooden fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinns castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for the nations foreign masters. Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonias parliament. On one corner of the castle you can see Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour ag waving above it. Its commonly recognised that whoevers ag ies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see in front is actually a baroque structure added in the 18th Century. For a more castle-like view of this building, head behind it, down the opposite side of the hill.QD-1, Lossi plats 1, tel. (+372) 631 63 45, www.riigikogu.ee/index. php?id=3156. English guided tour every Friday at 11:00. Group tours offered with other preferred languages from Monday through Fridays, between 10:00 - 16:00. Call for details and bookings. J 24 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Sightseeing
SiGHTSEEiNG TOURS
AUdioGUide OLd Town ToUr On this self-guided tour, your own personal mobile device provides customised narration (and sound eects!) on the history and architecture of key Old Town sights. Follow the map (provided) and set your own pace. There are also tours available for the Estonian Open Air Museum and the Tallinn City Museum.Qtel. (+372) 655 66 33, info@ audioguide.ee, www.audioguide.ee. Available for download to your mobile phone, android, iPhone, laptop, tablet etc. at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre for 3.49 and at some large hotels. Free with Tallinn Card at the Information Centre. City Bike ToUrs Now more than just bikes, Citybike oers tours on wheels and by foot. There are tours available for pretty much any interesting sight in and around the city. These include excursions of Old Town, including a visit to the tunnels and trips to Pirita and Kadriorg. Customised tours are also available. Excursions leave from the City Bike oce in Old Town, Uus 33.QB-3, Uus 33, tel. (+372) 511 18 19, mail@ citybike.ee, www.citybike.ee. Open 09:00 - 17:00. See website for prices and details. J CITY TRAIN This is a happy, blue little tourist train that makes a 20-minute circuit through the streets of Old Town all year long. Departures are from Town Hall Square (C-2). Great fun for both kids and kids-at-heart. Ride costs 5 for adults and 3 for the kids.Qtel. (+372) 58 10 33 44, tallinnarong@ gmail.com. Open 11:30 - 19:00. J Estonian EXperience If youve come to Tallinn just for a weekend and want to make the most of your limited time, or if you want to enjoy a personal, private guided tour - why not check out the Estonian Experience? All tours are private and tailored to your interests. See website for tour details and prices - alternately you can also nd their brochures at most major hotels in the city centre.Qtel. (+372) 53 46 40 60, sales@estonianexperience. com, www.estonianexperience.com. EUroaUdioGUide This audio guide allows the user to take themselves on a tour at their leisure, using an iPod, a map and their own two feet. The narration provides loads of interesting facts and exciting tales from Tallinns past and its available at many major hotels throughout the city and the Tourist information centre (see Basics section). See website for prices.Qinfo@euroaudioguide.com, www. tallinnaudioguide.com. Hop-On Hop-Off City ToUr This tour uses bright red, London-style double-decker buses to take tourists on several different routes through Tallinn. Theres a Red Line covering the town centre and Kadriorg, a Green Line connecting to Pirita, 26 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com the TV Tower and the Botanic gardens, and a Blue Line that takes you to the Estonian Open Air Museum. Information for each location is provided in ten languages by Audioguide (see above), and riders can hop on and off at any stop.QC-4, Mere pst. in front of the souvenir market, tel. (+372) 627 90 80/(+372) 53 055 055, info@citytour.ee, www.citytour.ee. One-day ticket 16; two-day ticket 20. Free with 24hr, 48hr and 72hr Tallinn Card. Private ToUrs The famous Estonian historian Ahti Arak organises individual programmes in Tallinn and all over Estonia, and he can get you into places other tour groups dont have access to. In fact he probably knows more about Estonian history than anyone in the country. Cars and buses can be arranged where needed.Qtel. (+372) 53 42 03 61/(+372) 434 31 57, ahti@tours.ee, www.tours.ee. TaLLinn OfficiaL SiGhtseeinG ToUr The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Ocial Sightseeing Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer areas, and also a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours and tours run two to four times daily. See website for schedule.QD-4, Estonia pst. 3, Reisiekspert, tel. (+372) 610 86 66/(+372) 610 86 16, incoming@ reisiekspert.ee, www.travel2baltics.com. The tour costs 20. Free with Tallinn Card. TaLLinn TraveLLer ToUrs Tallinn Traveller organises several adventures, including the famous Tallinn Free Tour and infamous Tallinn Pub Crawl. Excursions are conducted by local youths, are less expensive and more original than most guided tours out there. Other than the free tour, others must be booked in advance and prices vary depending on the tour. See website for more info.Qtel. (+372) 58 37 48 00, tallinn@ traveller.ee, www.traveller.ee.

Sightseeing
CHURcHES
Tallinns most famous churches have already been listed in the Old Town pages, but here are several more churches for readers with a special interest. ChUrch of the TransfiGUration of OUr Lord (Issanda MUUtmise Kirik) Originally belonging to St. Michaels Convent of the Cistercian Order (located next door and now housing the Gustavus Adolphus School), the church was given to an Orthodox congregation in 1716. The church has retained its original form, save the addition of a Baroque spire in 1776 and exterior renovations in the early 1800s. The carved-wood iconostasis is one of the most impressive of its kind.QB-2, Suur-Kloostri 14-1, tel. (+372) 646 40 03. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00. J St. CharLes the XIs ChUrch (KaarLi kirik) Built in pseudo-Romanesque style on the site of a 17th-century wooden church,Kaarli isan excellent example of the use of one of Estonias greatest resources - limestone. In all, construction took 20 years (1862 - 1882), but painter Johann Kler completed Estonias largest mural here, Come to Me, in just ten days. The church is also home to Estonias largest church organ.QE-1, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 91 00/ (+372) 611 91 01, tallinna.kaarli@eelk.ee, www.eelk.ee/ tallinna.kaarli. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00 and Mon 13:00. Classical music hour on Tue 17:00. St. MichaeLs Swedish LUtheran ChUrch (Rootsi-MihkLi kirik) Originally built as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Michaels also housed a spinning factory where fallen women worked. Then it was transformed into a church for local Swedes. After serving as a weightlifting room under the Soviets, the church was returned in 1993 to the Swedish congregation, whose eorts to fund-raise for renovation of the church have paid o. Book in advance for museum tour.QD-2, Rtli 9, tel. (+372) 644 19 38, rootsi-mihkli@eelk.ee, www.stmikael.ee. Services in Swedish every Sunday 12:00 and in Finnish every Sunday 10:00. In German every 2nd and 4th Sunday 15:00. J St. NichoLas OrthodoX ChUrch (Pha piiskop NikoLaUse kirik) The present Classical building dates to the 1820s, but a Russian Orthodox church stood here in the early 1400s. The young church houses many objects of artistic value predating it, including 16th-century icons.QB-3, Vene 24, tel. (+372) 644 19 45, www.orthodox.ee. Services in Russian Mon - Fri 08:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun 10:00. J February - March 2014 27

TaLLiNN caRD
If youre trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city tourist oces discount card, the Tallinn Card, good for 24hrs (24), 48hrs (32), or 72hrs (40). For kids 7 - 14, the price is reduced by 50%. Cardholders get to choose from three tours, one free city tour and get discounts from a number of others. Cardholders will also gain free admission to all the citys museums, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies, like chocolatecovered marzipan and admission to Club Hollywood. A very well written, fat booklet that comes with the card lists all the oers and benets. The card is sold in major hotels, can be found at the airport, in the harbour and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details, consult the website at www.tallinncard.eeQwww.tallinncard.ee. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Sightseeing
HiSTORY MUSEUMS
Estonian History MUseUm - Great GUiLd HaLL Housed in the Great Guild Hall, this newly renovated museums permanent exhibition, entitled Spirit of Survival, covers 11,000 years of Estonias history with interactive displays and text in Estonian and English (audio-guides available in Russian and English). The building itself, built 1407 - 1410, is signicant as the home of Tallinns union of wealthy merchants and is a sight worth visiting in its own right. As part of the renovations, several formal rooms and cellars have now been opened to the public for the rst time. Next to the museum, follow the Brsi Passage where Estonias history is set in the stone path (when its not covered in snow), from the pre-history, through the present-day.QC-2, Pikk 17, tel. (+372) 641 16 30, post@ ajaloomuuseum.ee, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 5. Joint ticket (Maarjame Palace and Great Guild Hall) 7. J Estonian History MUseUm - MaarJame PaLace The branch of the Estonian History Museum that covers the 19th and 20th centuries makes its home in this landmark house on the road to Pirita. Originally a summer house, this pseudo-Gothic palace housed the Dutch consulate, a posh hotel, future pilots and the Soviet army, before being given to the History Museum in 1975. Excellent exhibitions on the War for Independence and the rst Estonian Republic.QF6, Pirita tee 56, tel. (+372) 622 86 10, fax (+372) 644 34 46, post@ajaloomuuseum.ee, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4. Joint ticket (Maarjame Palace and Great Guild Hall) 7. Kiek in de Kk (Peep into the Kitchen) Now fully renovated, this tower/museum is an excellent introduction to the history of Tallinns defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45m, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IVs cannonballs embedded in its walls. The top oor houses a caf with some excellent views. And where did the tower get its name? Check out the voyeurs view from the windows for yourself as you climb upward.QD-1/2, Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@linnamuuseum.ee, www. linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 4.50. Joint ticket with the Bastion Tunnels 8.30. J TaLLinn City MUseUm By far, the most modern and complete introduction to Tallinn. Appropriately built into a 14th-century merchant house, the City Museum houses elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages.QC-3, Vene 17, tel. (+372) 615 51 80, info@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum. ee/linnamuuseum. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 3.20. J

Sightseeing
QUiRKY MUSEUMS
ILLUsion - HoUse of WaX FiGUres This little wax museum just o Town Hall Square is bizarre to say the least. Some of the celebrity likenesses are decent enough, but really weve seen a lot better. Perhaps the best part of this exhibit is the freak-show display ie. people born with genetic defects such as three eyes etc. Coming in a close second is the R-rated 18+ section devoted to naked women - some of which have birth defects. At any rate, the ticket price isnt too steep and photography is allowed so why not step inside, at least youll get some strange photos to Instagram to your Facebook friends.QC2, Kullassepa 5. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 5. J MedievaL TortUre InstrUments It sounds like a tourist trap, and certainly is, but this Italian collection is actually fairly extensive and well researched. Dozens of instruments of torture, most originals, come with complete explanatory texts with examples of when they were used to get people to confess to being witches, etc. Enough to make anyone a rm believer in the Geneva Convention.QC-3, Viru 3. Open 10:00 - 20:00. J

TUNNELS UNDER TaLLiNN

Legends, secrets and underground passages, the tunnels arent just for rats any more, now you can tour them, too! Built in the 17th-centur y by the Swedes to help protect the city, these tunnels are a fascinating relic of times past. Now having completed phase two of the renovations, visitors can ride the underground train into Tallinns future or take a walk into the depths of the citys past. Watch your head though some of the passage ways can be a little hard on you. Tours (by arrangement) run from 10:00 - 17:30, every day except Monday. For booking, contact Kiek in de Kk tel. (+372) 644 66 86. Admission 5.80, children 3.20. Joint ticket with the Kiek in de Kk 8.30. Bring warm clothing as the tunnel temperatures are 6 to 8 degrees.QD-1/2, Komandandi 2 (Kiek in de Kk), tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@linnamuuseum.ee, www. linnamuuseum.ee/kok. J

caTS wELL
Before you complain about the chalky taste of Tallinns tap water, you might want to stop to consider what the towns Medieval residents had to put up with. This wheel well on the corner of Rataskaevu and Dunkri in the Old Town was once one of the main sources of water for the Tallinn. According to legend, some of the locals got it into their heads that an evil water spirit lived in the well and threatened to make all the towns wells run dry if it wasnt given regular animal sacrices. To keep the spirit happy, some cattle and sheep carcasses were thrown down the well, but the main victims were stray cats, who were rounded up and tossed, sometimes live, down the shaft. This practice was so common that the locals started calling this watering hole Cats Well. In a sense, the sacrices worked - the towns wells never ran dry. But the practice of throwing animals down the well didnt do much for the water quality, and the Cats Well had fallen into disuse by the mid 19th century. Rest assured that nowadays Tallinns water is much safer to drink, and the cats of Old Town no longer live in fear.QC-2. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

For art museum and gallery listings please check Culture & Events section

www.linnamuuseum.ee

Tallinn City Museum branch museums:

includes the following

OccUpaTiON HiSTORY
The MUseUm of OccUpations In the period from 1940 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briey by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this dicult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. High-tech audio-visual displays and art installations add life to the museums artefacts and texts.. Through April 20th exhibition Incomplete Landscape. QD/E-1, Toompea 8, tel. (+372) 668 02 50, muuseum@okupatsioon.ee, www.okupatsioon. ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.

1 CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchants dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. It got the European Museum Forums nomination in 2003. The museum and its caf are open: Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm 2 Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road 3 New! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAF at Lhike jalg 9a Exhibition open Mon-Sun 11.30-19.00 Caf open Mon-Sun 11.30-22.00 4 PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street, 5 CHILDRENS MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue Street 6 HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mekalda Street 7 MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula Street Colourful theme museum for children Writers museums with authentic interiors: 8 A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street 9 E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas

28 Tallinn In Your Pocket

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

February - March 2014

29

Sightseeing
SpEciaLiTY MUSEUMS
Estonian Maritime MUseUm Centuries of seafaring history, including models, charts and other artifacts, are displayed in this multi-storied museum housed in the 16th-century Fat Margaret cannon tower. Dont miss the antique diving equipment or the view from the roof.QA-3, Fat Margaret Tower, Pikk 70, tel. (+372) 641 14 08/(+372) 641 14 10, info@meremuuseum.ee, www.meremuuseum.ee/et/paks-margareeta. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5. Joint ticket (Maritime Museum and Seaplane Hangars) 14. J Estonian MUseUm of NatUraL History All your favourite taxidermied Estonian, and a few foreign, animals (not to mention dried plants and mollusks) are on display in this renovated three-storey museum designed to introduce nature to youngsters. Dont miss the museums mascot, the biggest sh ever caught in the Baltics. The museum is fairly small though and English info was still a little bit lacking when we last visited, but its been fully modernised and is still worth a look. Check out the fascinating, live-sh exhibits and special exhibitions while youre there. Through April 27 exhibition Wonderful Spiders.QB-2, Lai 29a, tel. (+372) 641 17 39, muuseum@ loodusmuuseum.ee, www.loodusmuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3, family ticket 6. J KaLev MarZipan Room Estonias famous candy factory operates a tiny museum in the Old Town building where the company started back in the 19th century. There isnt too much text, but visitors can get a look at the intricate, hand-painted marzipan creations. QC-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 41 92, www.kalev.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free. J MUseUm of Estonian PhotoGraphy Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 - 1940 period. Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and antique cameras on display.QC-2, City Prison, Raekoja 4/6, tel. (+372) 644 87 67, foto@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum/. Open 10:00 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 2. J RUssian MUseUm This small museum on Pikk street is dedicated to Russian culture in Estonia. They usually feature a dierent RussianEstonian artist every few months or a Russian artist who spent part of their life in Estonia. During the Tsarist era many famous Russian painters, artists and writers spent time in Estonia from Pushkin to Dostoyevsky - the list is large. This small museum is not exactly English friendly but if you are fascinated by Russian culture and how its inuenced Estonia, the 25 English-language guided tour might be worth it. Through March 02 exhibition Vladimir Anon 50. Backwards Perspective.QB-2/3, Pikk 29a, tel. (+372) 608 00 16/(+372) 608 00 17, info@vemu.ee, www.vemu.ee. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2. J SeapLane HarboUr & MUseUm The freshly opened and highly interactive Seaplane Harbour and Museum will certainly fill in a lot of the blanks when it comes to Estonias maritime history. This modern museum is housed in architecturally unique seaplane hangers, which include structures that were part of the Peter the Great Naval Fortress between 1916-1917. The Submarine Lembit, the Suur Tll steam icebreaker (Toell the Great, in English), the Short Type 184 seaplane, and many other large exhibits are on display here. Youll get a chance to take part in maritime history, as well as participate in the many hands-on exhibits. Through March 31 Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition.QF-2, Kti 17, tel. (+372) 641 14 08/ (+372) 57 87 58 15 (groups), info@lennusadam.eu, www.lennusadam.eu. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10. Joint ticket (Maritime Museum and Seaplane Hangars) 14. K The MarZipan MUseUm The room of this little shop/museum has a few more creations than the Kalev Marzipan Room, but is not quite steeped in as much history. Visitors do however get the chance to build their own marzipan gurines and even receive a gift-box to house the sweet creation. The marzipan sculpturing experience will set you back 3.50.QC-3, Pikk 40, tel. (+372) 646 06 26, www.martsipan.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Marzipan history tour for groups from 10-30 people costs 4.50 per person. Call for details. J

Sightseeing
TOwN fORTificaTiONS
With 46 towers, medieval Tallinn was known as one of the most fortied burgs in all Northern Europe. Today 1.85km of the original city wall and 20 towers survive. EppinG Tower The focus of the museum inside the Epping tower is an interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and development of medieval defence systems. On display are items pertaining to the towers history, including suits of armour and complete maps of how the town looked during the 15th-century. Make sure you climb all the way to the top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool.QB-2, Laboratooriumi 31, tel. (+372) 601 30 01, nele@kuukala.com, www.eppingtower.info. From October through April open only Sat and Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 4. J Fat MarGarets Tower Originally constructed in the 14th century and arguably one of the top sights in the city, Paks Margareta as she is known to locals, is 82m in diameter and boasts 5m thick walls. At one point, Tallinns harbour was just outside the Great Coastal Gate and she certainly provided a formidable defence against any hostile forces trying enter the city here. The tower currently houses the Estonian Maritime Museum, see museum entry for details.QA-3, Pikk 70. J HeLLemann Tower GaLLery This medieval structure has been converted into an art gallery, but paying the small entrance fee will let you have a look at the inside of the tower and give you a chance to walk along a section of the original town wall where youll get a pigeons-eye view of Old Town. Dont forget to check out the various exhibitions being held here as well.QC-3, Mrivahe 48, info@hellemann.ee, www. hellemann.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 3. J NUnne, SaUna and KULdJaLa Towers Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at this spot.QB-2, Gmnaasiumi 3, tel. (+372) 644 98 67, kodu.linn@mail.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00 Tour hours may vary. Call ahead to make sure they are open. Admission 1.50. J VirU Gates The main entrance into Old Town is marked by these beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was composed of a large tower, walls and the existing two towers. Unfortunately the larger inner gate towers were destroyed, but if you close your eyes were sure that you can picture what they would have looked like.QC-3. J February - March 2014 31

STREaKiNG SKYwaRDS!
TV Tower Ocially opened on November 7th (Soviet Revolution Day) in 1980, the 314m tower was, and is, an imposing example of Soviet engineering. From its observation deck at the 170m level, you can see Finland on a clear day. The renovated tower features an interactive Estonian Hall-of-Fame exhibition, a museum and a swank restaurant. One of the more exciting features include some pretty freaky oor-windows that youre encouraged to jump on and you can take full advantage of streaking skyward in the lightning-fast elevators. Youre also invited to take part in their 175 metre-high EdgeWalk, which just might possibly be the scariest thing youve ever done, even though youre attached to the tower by a safety harness. Take bus N34A or 38 from the Viru Keskus bus terminal to Teletorn stop. QKloostrimetsa 58a, tel. (+372) 57 50 36 50/(+372) 686 30 05, info@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 7 per person, family ticket 15. Edgewalk 20 for a single ticket or 60 for a group of four. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV Tower is 9. After 18:00 restaurant admission 3. See website for further admission info. HKXW 30 Tallinn In Your Pocket

MaiDENS TOwER
Maidens Tower MUseUm and Caf Originally erected in 1370-73, the tower has undergone extensive renovations and its been reconnected to the adjacent defence tower. Neitsitorn, again, features a caf that was very popular in the early 1980s, as well as historical exhibits reecting these fortications and the stories that go along with them. The museum is both insightful, interesting and the eatery, which actually spans three oors, is decent but a little pricey - the view however, is certainly worth it. QD-1, Danish Kings Garden, tel. (+372) 601 26 05, neitsitorn@linnamuuseum.ee, www. linnamuuseum.ee/neitsitorn. Open 11:30 - 18:30. Closed Mon Caf open 11:30 - 21:00, Fri - Sat 11:30 22:00, closed Mon. Admission 2. Entrance to the caf is free of charge after 18:30, visitors recieve a 10% discount with the purchase of a museum ticket. JK facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

L MaRKS THE SpOT

Look for two long cobblestones that make the letter L in the corner of Town Hall Square nearest the Raeapteek. This spot marks one of the more bizarre tales from Tallinns medieval history. In the late 1600s, so the story goes, a priest named Panicke walked into an inn and ordered an omelette. What he got was hard as the sole of a shoe, so he sent it back. The next two that the waitress brought were even worse, and after an argument, the priest decided to make his point by killing the waitress with an axe. For this unusually violent crime, the priest was swiftly hauled out to the square and beheaded, and the spot was marked for the convenience of future tourguides. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing
GREaT OUTDOORS
Estonian Open Air MUseUm Put on your hiking boots! This outdoor museum includes a whopping 76 buildings, mostly farm-related, sprawled out across 80ha of forest and land in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. There are even a couple of windmills, and you can also take a ride on the horse-drawn waggon or sleigh - depending on the weather. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history. Sample the pea soup and other traditional and hearty foods at the Kolu Inn (Kolu Krts). Take bus N21 or 21b from the train station to Rocca al Mare stop.QVabahumuuseumi tee 12, tel. (+372) 654 91 00/(+372) 654 91 01, info@evm.ee, www. evm.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 4. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is 12 and may be used on separate days. TaLLinn Zoo Although not an overly large zoo, Tallinns animal garden boasts one of the most impressive collections of exotic species in Northern Europe. Birds of prey are to the left, a Siberian tiger, Amur leopards and polar bears are straight ahead as you pass the indoor viewing areas. You can check out the Elephant and Rhinoceros House, which also features loads of snakes and pigmy hippos, or duck into the steamy, crocodile and chimp-lled Tropical House. You also wont want to miss the Tallinn In Your Pocket sponsored Bennetts wallabies,

Sightseeing
ViiMSi aREa
The scenic Viimsi penninsula located just outside the city limits to the east, right past Pirita, also has a few things worth checking out - in fact it boasts a spectacular view of Tallinn in a seaside setting. located near the domestic yaks. Take bus N22 or trolleybus N6 from the Vabaduse vljak to the Zoo stop. QPaldiski mnt. 145, tel. (+372) 694 33 00, zoo@tallinnzoo.ee, www. tallinnzoo.ee. Ticket office is open 09:00 - 15:00, from March 09:00 - 17:00. Indoor expositions (Tropical house, Elephant house) 10:00 - 16:00, from March 10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. You are allowed to wander the zoo 2 hours after the ticket office closes. Admission 4. Family and childrens prices available too. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is 12 and can be used on separate days. TaLLinn BotanicaL Garden With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a well-kept secret. Around 8,000 species are arranged on 123ha of land, with large modern greenhouses where you can nd displays of tropical, subtropical and desert plants. Take bus N34A or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa stop. February 07 - 16: Clever pranksters. March 01 - 09: Orchids.QKloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. (+372) 606 26 66, aed@botaanikaaed.ee, www.botaanikaaed.ee. Open 09:00 - 17:00 Greenhouses open 11:00 - 16:00. Call 606 26 66 for tours. Admission 3.50. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV Tower is 9. See website for further admission info. For getting to the Viimsi Open Air Museum and the Museum of Coastal Folk, take bus no 114 from Narva mnt. at Hobujaama or Pronksi, the ride takes about 30 min and youll get o at the Rannarahva stop, walk back a bit and the Museum of Coastal Folk is on the left. If you want to go to the open air museum, get o at the Rannarahva stop and walk about 500m and that museum is on the left next to the sea. MUseUm of CoastaL FoLk This fantastic little museum, housed in a historic red wooden school-house traditionally used in the coastal Swedish areas of Estonia, holds many surprises inside. Its quite modern and features loads of exhibits, some permanent and some special. The main aim of the museum however is to highlight and bring attention to how important the sea has been to the people of Estonia throughout the ages. From shing, to seal hunting, to trade - Estonians and the various nationalities who played a role in this countrys history have utilised the sea and her strategic geographic position between the east and west. There are numerous displays, artefacts and information available for the visitor to explore, as well as a great kids play area complete with a wooden ship and sea-related costumes for them to let their nautical imaginations run wild. Their gift-shop is also an excellent place to pick up some great souvenirs, including many authentic Estonian items. Through March exhibition Handicraft in Bed. QNurme tee 3, Pringi, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 606 69 41, info@rannarahvamuuseum. ee, www.rannarahvamuuseum. ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Admission 3 and includes entrance to the Viimsi Open Air Museum. Viimsi Open Air MUseUm This quaint little open air museum oers a peek at what life was like throughout the ages in coastal areas of Estonia. Here you can nd a collection of seaside-farmhouses spanning 150 years and even enter many of the buildings. It also features a great little shing shed and a cellar of illegal spirits among many other structures. Throughout the year they host various cultural programmes and events as well as a great farmers market every Saturday from 9:00 - 14:00. Great view of Tallinn as well across the bay. QRohuneeme tee 51, Pringi, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 606 69 52, www.rannarahvamuuseum.ee/viimsivabaohumuuseum/. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 3 and includes entrance to the Museum of Coastal Folk. February - March 2014 33

AT THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM MARCH 2 & 4

See event programm at www.evm.ee

SHROVETIDE

VaNa TOOMaS
One of Tallinns most recognised and legendary gures, the weathervane Vana Toomas (Old Thomas), can be seen guarding over Old Town from the top of the Town hall tower, rain or shine. Toomas wasnt always as old as his current name suggests - you see, as a wee peasant lad he won an annual archery contest that was only reserved for the nobility. He expected to get into a fair amount of trouble for winning, as it had never been done by someone of his lowly stature, but his win would not be in vain as he was invited to become an apprentice guard. The next few years would see much adventure for our young hero as he performed numerous heroic deeds during the Livonian war and went on to serve Tallinn well past the usual retirement age. At some point later the townsfolk noticed a similarity between the weathervane and their favorite soldier and decided to honor him by giving his name to the vane. He has since become a symbol of the city.QC-2. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

TALLINN ZOO: Paldiski mnt. 145/ Ehitajate tee 150 , Tel (+372) 6 94 33 00, zoo@tallinnzoo.ee, www.tallinnzoo.ee.
Transport:.from.Centre.of.City.-.trolley.6,.bus.22.(Zoo..stop);.from.Bal.c.Railway.Sta.on.-.trolley.7,.bus.21.(Zoo.stop)

32 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing
KaDRiORG aREa
Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnicent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace and several art museums. Trams N1 and 3 will also get you there. Once youve arrived, nearly everything you want to see is located conveniently on, or just next to, the same short stretch of Weizenbergi. KadriorG PaLace Italian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this magnicent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The emperor named the estate for his wife Catherine I (Catherine is Kadri in Estonian), hence the name of the area. The palace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In addition to perusing the nations collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs that served as presidents oce in the 1930s. Dont miss the lavish manicured gardens, out back.QG-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. (+372) 606 64 03, kadriorg@ekm.ee, www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.80. KadriorG Park MUseUm & Library This small museum is dedicated to the parks history, as well as to the architecture of other parks around Estonia. Changing exhibits and a library.QG-5, Weizenbergi 26, tel. (+372) 601 31 83, muuseum@kadriorupark.ee, www.kadriorupark.ee. Open Fri - Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admisson free. Peter The Great HoUse MUseUm This humble little cottages claim to fame is that this was where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during his visits to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete. In fact its still lled with Peters furniture, portraits and other artefacts from his interesting life.QG-5, Mekalda 2, tel. (+372) 601 31 36, peetri@ linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2. PresidentiaL PaLace For a few years during Estonias rst period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palaces style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much ourish. Since the building once again serves as the Presidents oce and residence, its closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, youll see the honour guards marching out front.QG-5, Weizenbergi 39. 34 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com Increasingly Tallinn has become a destination for families and while there are plenty of things to do and see that will intrigue both young and old alike - for the tourist it can be a bit of a chore to gure out just where best to take the kids and what activities will keep them occupied. Here you can nd a list of extra child-friendly excursions and activities.

Tallinn for Families

Lotte PLayroom Styled after the most loved Estonian childrens cartoon character, this newly opened, indoor playroom inside the Kaubamaja department store, will give parents the chance to shop until they - or their kids drop - whichever comes rst.QD-4, Gonsiori 2 (Tallinna Kaubamaja 4th floor), tel. (+372) 667 31 00, www.kaubamaja.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. 3/hr or free with same-day Kaubamaja shopping purchase. Must show your receipt. J Piip & TUUt PLayhoUse Certainly the most unique and special of all the playrooms we have listed, this one is located on Toompea in a historic building rst mentioned in 1404. The play area is upstairs and features climbing tunnels and all sorts of nooks an crannies that kids love. All the toys are made out of wood or fabric and the emphasis here is on utilising the childs imagination rather numbing their little minds with video games or electronic distractions. While the kids are happily playing upstairs, parents are invited to enjoy a coffee, lite-bite or a dessert in the quaint caf on the rst oor. A perfect scenario if you ask us.QC-1, Toom-Kooli 13, tel. (+372) 662 67 67, haide@piipjatuut.ee, www.piipjatuut. ee. Open 11:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J

FaMiLY fUN
EnerGy Discovery Centre Currently, this hands-on museum is housing some of its exhibits in the former AHHAA location until their permanent home has nished renovations in the summer of 2014. Until then youll still be able to cater to your inner nerd by checking out the scaled-down exhibition entitled From light to electricity. More than 40 dierent interactive exhibits are on display to both teach and experiment with electricity, light, magnets and sound.QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 9, tel. (+372) 715 26 50, info@energiakeskus.ee, www.energiakeskus.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Admission 3, family ticket 8. J KaLev Spa Water Park Located right downtown, this fully-equipped indoor water park provides a whole host of wet entertainment. Besides its three water slides, it has a 50m lap pool, an upstream swimming pool, kids pool and play area, saunas, hot tubs and a caf. For a 2.5hr visit, the price for children up to 5 years of age is 1.50, adults 11.90 and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 children) is 39. Daily and 1.5hr admission also available.QB-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 70, waterpark@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee/veekeskus. Open 06:45 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. TJi FLC PUppet MUseUm Who ever thought puppets could be so interesting. This museum, which showcases pretty much everything there is to about puppets and puppetry is an interactive experience the whole family can enjoy. From touch-screens, to a personalised experience via your very own code - the old caveat look but dont touch certainly does not apply here. If youre lucky youll even get a chance to see puppets being made in the workshop upstairs and youll also be able to make your very own souvenir of the whole experience. QC-2, Nunne 8, tel. (+372) 667 95 55, muuseum@ nuku.ee, www.nuku.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon Puppet-making workshops open Tue - Sun from 12:00 - 18:00. For group bookings call (+372) 667 95 09. Admission 5. J

SiGHTSEEiNG fOR KiDS

DoLL MUseUm Just as the name implies, this museum is a treasure trove of dolls, antique and modern. Small and geared toward kids, the museum proudly presents its permanent exhibition, Old Beloved Toys.QA-1, Kotzebue 16, tel. (+372) 641 34 91, laste@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/ lastemuuseum. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2. Estonian PUppet Theatre The elaborate Puppet Theatre has been a staple of local entertainment since 1952. It also houses an extensive, hightech museum that deals with puppet theatre history and pretty much anything else related to the puppet-verse. Theyve also got something called a steampunk show, which can be viewed from the window on Nunne street 8 (C-2) every half an hour - or immediately by dialling the displayed phone number from your mobile phone. QC-2, Lai 1, tel. (+372) 667 95 55, info@nuku.ee, www.nuku.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Museum open 10:00 - 19:00, closed Mon. Admission 5 or 14 for a family ticket. J Miia-MiLLa-Manda This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared towards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The playful exhibits are constantly changing and with active themes the little ones are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - or so we hope.QG-5, Koidula 21A, tel. (+372) 601 70 57, mmmm@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum. ee/miiamillamanda. Open 12.00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Family ticket 5.20. February - March 2014 35

INDOOR pLaYROOMS
JUkU PLayLand Playland in Rocca al Mare shopping centre oering ball pits, jungle gym, trampoline and inatable attractions. Tickets start from 2.40. QPaldiski mnt. 102, tel. (+372) 665 91 49/(+372) 56 93 31 30, rocca@playland.ee, www. mangumaa.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Active Tallinn
Apart from the usual, boring sightseeing tours there are loads of other activities available in and around Tallinn. From hot air ballooning to bowling to biking, we list a plethora of hands-on activities for the more adventurous tourists to enjoy. Some activities may even result in the loss of hands, but most of those types of adventures require that you sign a waiver and naturally Tallinn In Your Pocket cannot be held liable if you do lose a limb.

Active Tallinn
SNOwY fUN
Nmme Snow Park Skiing, snow tubing, and snowboarding abound at Tallinns only organised snow hill. In case they wouldnt let you on the plane with your snow-tube, youll be able to rent one along with skis and snowboards too. QVana-Mustame 16, tel. (+372) 56 15 91 60, info@ nommelumepark.ee, www.nommelumepark.ee. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Adult tickets cost between 5-15, children up until 12 years 3-10 depending on the day of the week. See website for up-to-date prices. Winter Park Snow-tubing, ice-skating, cross-country skiing and snow-boarding, oh my! As soon as the temperature dips below the freezing mark this park, located at the world-famous Tallinn Song Festival grounds, will be ready to indulge most of your snowy winter needs. That pretty much sums it up - fun for the whole family is guaranteed. See web-site for prices and details. Let the reindeer games begin!QF/G-5/6, Narva mnt. 95, Song Festival Grounds, tel. (+372) 54 00 51 00, info@winterpark.ee, www.winterpark.ee. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Adult tickets cost between 7-15, children up until 12 years 3-10 depending on the day of the week. See website for up-to-date prices.

CULTURE
Annkris GLass If you are fascinated by glass or just would like to keep your hands busy for a couple of hours, then the courses oered by Annkris Glass might just be your thing. They oer several workshops including etching and engraving, Tiany technique angel and spruce tree design as well as glass melting. Prices and courses vary but the minimum number of participants is 6 so make sure to bring all your friends and make some new ones if you have to. Must be booked in advance, see website for details.QI-3, Veerenni 24D, tel. (+372) 56 56 64 42/(+372) 56 48 11 21, info@akglass.ee, www.ak-glass.ee/courses. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ceramics StUdio For a truly personal souvenir of Tallinn you might want to check out this ceramics studio which oers lessons every week to those interested in such things. Lessons are between 1.5-2hrs in length and cost a mere 15 per person. Its also possible to order private lessons for groups of up to 10 people, see website for details.QC-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 56 46 40 75, www.keraamikakoda.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00. J TaUno KanGro GaLLery (scULptinG cLasses) One of Estonias most revered, top sculptor/artist, also teaches sculpting classes with a live model. If you happen to have the time and the interest, this could be a unique opportunity to awaken your inner artist. Its also possible to schedule private classes for a group. Contact the gallery for more details.QB-3, Uus 20, tel. (+372) 641 10 02, info@skupltuuristuudio.ee, www.skulptuuristuudio. ee. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J The MarZipan MUseUm Not just a museum dedicated to the sugary, moldable almond paste - its a great place for the kids to keep their hands busy creating their own marzipan gurines, dinosaurs and airplanes - the sky is literally the limit in terms of what they can create. For a mere 3.50 per person kids both young and young at heart can build their own sweet souvenirs.QC-3, Pikk 40, tel. (+372) 646 06 26, www. martsipan.ee/en/voolimine. Open 10:00 - 18:00. J

SKaTE awaY
HarJU Street oUtdoor ice rink Uisuplats, an outdoor skating rink in Old Town, provides a perfect opportunity for slippery, winter fun. Theres even a fast-food eatery onsite, which is open all year long. The rink is located adjacent Harju street, next to the Niguliste Church. For more details, see website.QD-2, Harju Street, tel. (+372) 610 10 35, info@uisuplats.ee, www.uisuplats.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00 NB! Open from December to March. Prices per hour are as follows: Monday to Thursday, children (4 to 15 years) 2.50, adults (16 and older) 4. Friday to Sunday, children 3, adults 5. Skate rental (1 hr) 2. Note that using your own skates is also permitted. Toilets and lockers on site. J Jeti Ice HaLL Mostly used as a professional sports practice arena, it is open to the public at other times. See website for free-skate schedule. Ticket 4 - 5/hour (children under sixteen 2.50 - 3/hour). Skate rental 2/hour. Caf and sauna on site.QI-6, Suur-Sjame 14b (near Airport), tel. (+372) 610 10 35, info@jeti.ee, www.jeti.ee. koda Ice HaLL See website for free-skate ice times. Ticket 6/hour; children under sixteen 4. Skate rental 2.QHaabersti 3, tel. (+372) 660 05 00, info@icearena.ee, www. icearena.ee. N

ADVENTURE & TRaVEL

MeGaZone Various laser games, indoor adventure trail and rockclimbing. See website for details.QI-4, Tartu mnt. 80D, tel. (+372) 621 66 01/(+372) 53 45 67 00, info@ megazone.ee, www.megazone.ee. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 4 - 5/game. 30 minutes of rockclimbing 10. N XXXL ToUrs Pretty much the most extreme hen and stag party organiser in Tallinn, they provide such unique activities as anger packages with kalashnikov shooting, go-karting, paintball, clay pigeon shooting, and pub crawling with a female guide... thats right, female guide. Perhaps they even offer machine gun shooting while riding on go-karts with a female guide, you can always ask.QRohuneeme tee 61C, tel. (+372) 55 53 18 88, info@xxxltours.com, www. xxxltours.com.

BOwLiNG & BiLLiaRDS

AL Mare BowLinG With twelve lanes this just might be the largest bowling outt in Estonia. Perfect for any tourist who just cant keep their hands o of their balls.QPaldiski mnt. 96, tel. (+372) 656 29 64, amb@amb.ee, www.almarebowling. ee. Open 14.00 - 22.00, Fri 14.00 - 24.00, Sat 10.00 24.00, Sun 10.00 - 21.00. 11.40 - 18 depending on the time. Bamba This popular pub is a hit with its 23 tables, highly comfortable atmosphere and decent menu. Games 3.50 - 5.50/ hr.QI-2, Prnu mnt. 69, tel. (+372) 626 18 50, club@ bamba.ee, www.bamba.ee. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. KX CLUb 147 Pool and snooker. Games 6 - 14/hr.QH-3, Tartu mnt. 33, tel. (+372) 515 08 58, club147@club147.ee, www. club147.ee. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. J KUULsaaL This ultra-modern, ultra-cool, two-storey club oers the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic eect. 12 lanes 11.90 - 18.90/hr. They also oer seven pool tables, including snooker and Russian billiards for 2.90 - 4.90 per hour.QB-4, Mere pst. 6, tel. 36 Tallinn In Your Pocket

(+372) 661 66 82, bowling@kuulsaal.ee, www.kuulsaal. ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. J ZeLLULoosi BowLinG Mmmm, the smell of shoe disinfectant, the sound of pins crashing into each other and the sight of all those bums wiggling on the lanes. This friendly bowling club with attached sauna has lanes for 10.80 - 18/hr.QI-4, Tartu mnt. 80b, tel. (+372) 681 08 81/(+372) 53 07 27 32, info@ zbowling.ee, www.zbowling.ee. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. K tallinn.inyourpocket.com

FiTNESS cLUBS
KaLev Spa Fitness Weights, workout machines, aerobics and sauna.QB-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 70, spordiklubi@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee/teenused/spordiklubi. Open 07:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Single entry 10.50. Myfitness QC-4, Viru vljak 4 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 607 10 00, viru@myfitness.ee, www.myfitness.ee. Open 07:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00 Also at: D-4, Estonia pst. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket 9. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat - Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Single entry 13. J RevaL Sport Convenient tness club with weight room, workout machines, wide range of tness classes and sauna with plunge pool.QC-3/4, Aia 20, tel. (+372) 641 20 68, info@ revalsport.ee, www.revalsport.ee. Open 06:00 - 23:00. Single entry 9. JDCW February - March 2014 37

Restaurants
In Tallinn it seems they grant a new restaurant licence every week and sometimes we do miss one, but weve tried our best to have an accurate list by print time. Although changing for the better, be aware that in many cases youll have to seat yourself, so dont wait around like a dummy - just grab an available seat and youll eventually be brought a menu. In pubs, youll likely need to order and pay at the bar. Service in the centre is nearly always English-speaking and foreignlanguage menus are the rule - although, the words may not always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always included and a gratuity should never be added to the bill.

Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
T Child-friendly J Old town location U Facilities for the disabled X Smoking area V Home delivery N Payment in cash only

pRicE GUiDE
Based on the average price of a main course. Up to 7 Euros 8 - 13 Euros

Grand Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 51, hotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels. com. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. (Buffet 28) . JUW BoLLywood This slash-Indian-Asian place in Tallinn is actually quite decent and usually fills up in the evening hours. The name and dcor are decidedly Indian but they offer a plethora of Chinese and Thai samplings for those that prefer crispy or coco-nutty over chutney. As is the norm for the genre, mains come with rice and can usually feed two - as long as an appetiser has been ordered.QB-2, Pikk 31, tel. (+372) 644 24 45, info@ bollywood.ee, www.bollywood.ee. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . TJ6VXSW Chedi Call it a swank, upscale restaurant with an Asian menu, or an Asian restaurant done up to the nines. In either case, what youll get at Chedi is a sleek, novel dining experience that fuses East Asian and Western trends. This is where Thai Pike Perch meets lamb chop in chocolate sauce, and the quality is always top-notch. The only hiccup here is the service, which can at times be sluggish.QB-3, Sulevimgi 1, tel. (+372) 646 16 76, chedi@chedi.ee, www.chedi.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 22:00. . JS

6 Pets allowed
E Live music S Take-away L Free parking W Wi

14 - 19 Euros

Over 20 Euros

AfRicaN
African Kitchen This highly funky African-themed establishment is the place to go for aordable, exotic meals and a trendy, lounge-like atmosphere. Traditional and contemporary cuisine from the continent is served in hip, colourful surroundings. Lounge tables in the main room are a bit low, so reserve a spot in the cosier Cave Room for more comfortable dining. Service slows considerably when crowded.QB-3, Uus 32/34, tel. (+372) 644 25 55, info@ africankitchen.ee, www.africankitchen.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . J6LDXSW

AMERicaN
First it was Italian, then sushi, then Italian again - now it seems that American is the new eatery trend in Tallinn with new locales popping up everywhere. Not that we mind, we just hope someone nails the proper Yankee food experience down completely. BUffaLo Bar and GriLL This American-style eatery right in the heart of Old Town oers up a good amount of meaty favourites, classic appetisers and the prices are actually decent - especially considering the location. The burger we had was very tasty, but as is usual in Estonia (if youre the type to eat a burger with your hands) we found that the buns couldnt quite stand up to the amount of meat and toppings stued into them - not that its their fault though, the producers just need to start getting the buns right. Thick-cut fries come standard here, as does excellent service. Great cigar room upstairs with a ne selection available for purchase, for those that like to indulge.QC-3, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 651 55 73, tallinn@buffalogrill.ee, www.buffalogrill.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. NB! Temporarily closed in the beginning of February. Please call ahead to check if they are open. . JXS ChicaGo 1933 Kind of an upscale American restaurant, this stylish eatery certainly has more than a few American favourites on the menu and the atmosphere reminds of an oldfashioned Speakeasy. The burger, one of the best in the city, and steak we ate here were certainly top-notch and the service is also a cut-above the norm for Tallinn. Great smoking lounge upstairs as well.QC-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66, info@chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. Open , Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. . JUEXSW RoUte 13 GriLL This American-style restaurant/night-spot is certainly aiming to become the best eatery in its class in Tallinn. Weve actually had some good conversations with the owners and theyre quite committed to getting everything just right in order to make this the best American-style locale tallinn.inyourpocket.com

in Estonia. From what weve experienced so far, Route 13 just might become a lucky number. We quite enjoyed their burger last time we stopped by and the wings had just the right amount of bite.QD-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 680 76 17, route13bar@gmail.com. Open , Mon, Tue 11:00 02:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 07:00, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. . JXW TeXas Honky Tonk & Cantina Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation - this bar screams Texas so loud you might think youve walked into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step. The long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (Cadillac nachos, quesadillas, etc) with other things like hot wings, Texas potato salad and a decent selection of vegetarian items thrown in. Not all dishes are as authentic as the Alamo, but enough are to make this a decent destination for homesick Yanks.QB-3, Pikk 43, tel. (+372) 631 17 55, texas@texas.ee, www. texas.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . J6IESW Vike Resto This bite-sized eatery on Town Hall Square is pretty much a dressed-up burger place. Naturally they oer sidedishes, although these and the sauces will cost you extra - ketchup and mustard are however free. The decent-size burgers, albeit tasty, were a little on the dry side - so youll need one of those sauces. Prices were also reasonable, but the entire meal can start to add up rather quickly if you choose a side and special sauce.QC-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 640 03 57, info@r18.ee, www.r18.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . JS

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Best ribs in town

ASiaN
Asian Wok & GriLL Other than the fact that its pretty tasty food for a decent price, theres one more bonus - you can eat as much as you want for that same price! There are a couple of ways to get your food here. The first way is to load your plate full of hot and ready Asian cuisine, take it back to your table and dig in. The second option is to fill your plate full of meats and vegetables, choose a sauce and have the smiling chef wok it or grill it up for you. Starters, sushi, soups, salad and a dessert are also included - in case you were worried. Drinks cost extra and theres also an la carte menu for those with less imagination.QH-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 39

ll s n Ha Tow f. C2 m o r e f r 00 m map

quar

Luch buffet every weekday - only 6,5 eur!

OPEN 12 - 24
Vike-Karja 1, Ph.+372 651 55 73 buffalogrill.ee
38 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Restaurants
GaSTROpUB
CLayhiLLs GastropUb The rst of its kind in the Baltics, Clayhills Gastropub has raised the bar high. With executive chef Argo Ots (formerly of Pegasus) at the kitchens helm, the fresh cuisine is more along the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of a pub. Fortunately you wont have to pay Michelin level prices. The rich interior is heavily garnished with leather and the cellar is well stocked with quality beers and wines alike. The service also comes with a smile and the atmosphere is brimming with warmth.QC-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93 12, clayhills@clayhills.ee, www.clayhills.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. . J6EW China Inn Located smack dab in the middle of Viru street, this 100% Chinese cellar-restaurant has all the makings of a tourist trap, and has certainly been sliding in that direction as of late. The food was pretty decent, the last time we ate here - but some of the dishes are a little on the expensive side and depending on the time of day, the freshness of your meal may be questionable.QC-3, Viru 9, tel. (+372) 648 45 85, www.chinainn.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . JS

Restaurants
GoLden DraGon A long-time favourite among Old Towns local diners, this little cellar restaurants food quality has suffered mixed reviews as of late. However, we quite liked it the last time we were here so well let you be the judge. The portion size of the spring rolls continue to be big enough to feed you and 1.3 billion of your closest friends. Be warned though that the service, while always friendly, can slow to a crawl when things get busy. Stop by for the economical weekday lunch special. They now offer a childrens menu as well.QB-2/3, Pikk 37, tel. (+372) 631 35 06, golden.dragon@mail. ee, www.goldendragon.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TJIVS new Diip Diip is indeed deep as in a thin, long, kind of establishment. The quality, service and moderne atmosphere are all top-notch and it usually lls up with hipsters and movers as well as shakers from noon till night. We found the cuisine to be very artfully prepared and tasty, however, the price to portion ratio is unfortunately weighted more in the proprietors favour than the customers. Were not saying dont check it out, just keep in mind that lling your belly here will end up emptying your wallet - unless of course you have a fat wallet.QG-2, Soo 1/6, tel. (+372) 671 93 37, marek@diipresto.eu. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. . TUSW ELUtUba Another of the many decent eateries that have popped up in the area - its fresh, friendly and features a blend of Mediterranean and Estonian avours. Presentation is very important to them and they seem to change their small menu often - which can be both a good and a bad thing, especially if your the type who nds comfort in nding a dish you really enjoy but its disappeared the next time you visit.However, If you happen to be an adventurous foodie, the Living Room just might be perfect for you. Great selection of wines and bubbly grape beverages round out the experience.QG-2, Vabriku 6, tel. (+372) 510 21 73, info@elutuba.ee. Open 17:00 23:00. Closed Sun. . T6VS Kohvik Sesoon Although a little harder to nd than some of the other restaurants in the up-and-coming Kalamaja district, Sesoon is certainly happening and probably our new favourite in the area. With excellently prepared, fresh food and friendly prices - its denitely worth checking out. The only real drawback that we found was the service, which can slow down to a crawl when theyre busy or after the lunch and dinner rushes, when the wait-sta seem a little dazed from all the action. Despite this, well certainly visit again.QA-1, Niine 11, tel. (+372) 58 66 55 58, info@kohviksesoon.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. . TS February - March 2014 41

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KaLaMaJa EaTERiES
This historic wooden-house/industrial/port area of Tallinn has experienced a breath of new life in the last couple of years. What was once home to many derelict buildings, drunks and primarily working class residents - Kalamaja and Kopli were considered by most Talliners to be the seedy districts of town. The artists then moved in drawn by the cheap rent and large spaces, the hipsters soon followed and nally some great restaurants and cafs started popping up en masse. Filled with history, interesting architecture, an increasing number of boutiques, artsy shops and its proximity to Old Town - this area is certainly worth a visit, as are most of the eateries to be found here. See are F/G 1-2 on the map. Bistroo KUkeke The cuisine here is overseen by one of Estonias most famous culinary aficionados Anni Arro. Trained in Italy, she has written several cook-books and her passion for quality food certainly comes through in her recipes. Given that shes equally talented at creating delicious desserts, a meal had in the charming yet industrial atmosphere at Kukeke will certainly be worth your while.QG-1, Telliskivi 57, tel. (+372) 677 87 38, info@kukeke.ee, www. kukeke.ee. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. . T6SW Kohvik Moon Caf Poppy is one of Tallinns hidden gems - and quite literally so, in fact if you didnt read about it in our guide you most likely wouldnt nd it at all. Expect stylishly prepared haute-home cuisine for prices much lower than the majority of other establishments in its class. Oh, and the home baked bread was so good that we would probably do some very bad things to have it again.QG-3, Vrgu 3, tel. (372) 631 45 75, kohvik@kohvikmoon.ee, www. kohvikmoon.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 21:00. . T6SW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

CaUcaSiaN
Hearty cuisine from Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan became popular here during Soviet times and continues to leave its mark on the local culinary scene. GeorGian Tavern TbiLisi Having opened their rst eatery in Tartu and seeing that people quite enjoyed what they had to oer, they decided to give Old Town Tallinn a real taste of Georgia as well. The sta of this family restaurant are very welcoming, as is the atmosphere. Expect freshly prepared dishes the way they do back home. Youll nd all the Georgian classics such as Hinkali (meat dumplings), grilled Sashlik (meat skewers) and our favourite, Hatchapuri (melted cheese lled at-bread) among many others. All dishes are prepared fresh so be prepared to wait a little for your food to arrive. Our only warning is that with all the mouth-watering oers on the menu, youll be tempted to bite o more than you can chew. So bring friends, order a few dishes and share them.QD-2, Rtli 18, tel. (+372) 742 28 28, restoran.tbilisi@gmail.com, www.tbilisi.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . J6ISW

GaRLic
BaLthasar Beautifully-restored dining rooms in this historic building overlooking Town Hall Square provides Balthasar the perfect aristocratic setting for its rened establishment. The speciality of the house is garlic, and everything that can be made with it. The number of bulbs next to each menu item indicates the level of garlic in the dish. Not all dishes are heavily garlic-laden though, but a quick look at the dessert menu reveals... garlic ice cream? Reservations are recommended.QC-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 627 64 00, balthasar@balthasar.ee, www.balthasar.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . JEW

CHiNESE
If youre a big Chinese food fan, unfortunately, Tallinn is not one of the better places in the Northern Hemisphere to indulge in your x. There are however a couple of decent places, sadly, none of them are that centrally located. Cha Dao A short hop from Old Town, near the Fat Margaret tower, Cha Dao is certainly Tallinns most exclusive Chinese restaurant. The interior is stylish, the cuisine is excellent and you can nd dishes here that you wont be able to nd anywhere else in Estonia. That being said, its a little pricey if you just have a hankering for sweet and sour pork at lunch. Huge selection of teas and surprisingly, an organic Chinese beer.QG-3, Suur-Patarei 2, tel. (+372) 642 00 03, info@ chadao.ee, www.chadao.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .

40 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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Restaurants
Leib Resto Ja Aed Another one of our new favourites, Leib - which means bread in Estonian, has hit the mark on each of the several occasions weve visited. The service has been stellar, the fresh and interesting cuisine has certainly pleased the palate and the atmosphere - is refreshing, for lack of a better term. One of the owners is always on site and they bend over backwards to make sure your experience is mention-worthy. Fantastic home-made bread and prices that wont leave you broke. Especially great is the lovely outdoor dining and childrens sandbox play-area during the warmer months.QB-3, Uus 31, tel. (+372) 611 90 26, info@leibresto.ee, www.leibresto. ee. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . TJIEW Mekk For modern Estonian cuisine done right, make sure to pay a visit to the Savoy Boutique hotels culinary gem that is Mekk. Although the portions are somewhat dietary, the fare is fresh, prepared imaginatively and the meals come complete with home-made artisan bread. The service was pleasantly welcoming, as were the prices for the overall experience. We highly recommend the to-die-for desserts, which in our opinion belong under glass in an art gallery.QD-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. (+372) 680 66 88, info@mekk.ee, www.mekk.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . TJ6USW Nipernaadi Just a short walk from Old Town, Nipernaadi (named after a famous Estonian book character who wandered around the country), embodies the spirit of Nouveau Estonian cuisine by combining fresh, local and organic ingredients - many of them actually grown or farmed at their very own organic farm at Vihula Manor in Lahemaa National Park. The dishes are imaginatively prepared and simple yet elegant. Here youll also nd some lovely fruit wines, beers and vodkas, brewed in small breweries and distilleries around Estonia. Their attention to detail is both commendable and excellent - as is the food. We suggest you try one of their organic beef dishes, your taste buds will thank-you.QH-2, Endla 23 (Kreutzwald Hotel), tel. (+372) 666 48 17, nipernaadi@ uhotelsgroup.com, www.restonipernaadi.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00. . TULW Despite being named for one of Estonias hardest-topronounce vowels, is well worth seeking out. The atmosphere of stylish, charcoal-coloured furniture, with dovewing chandeliers overhead add an artistic touch. The equally fashionable menu, prepared by one of Estonias most decorated chefs, is inventive and modern with emphasis on the use of local ingredients. Here you can nd mouth-watering moose dishes, home-made reductions and fresh seasonal sh.QB-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 50, restoran@restoran-o.ee, www.restoran-o. ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 22:00. . JLSW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

fro m or a fo Unf as m o in c der r F ilte k u o 2 RE re two r m urs d E S bo en es ( y ak tt u a ou u les nd wi Go of n ld 7 be eu e ro r s)

TRaDiTiONaL ESTONiaN
Eesti SGitUba Joining the long list of gastronomic possibilities to be had at the Meriton hotel chain - the Estonian Dining Room oers its guests the possibility to sample some local cuisine for a reasonable price. Whether it be blood sausage, Baltic herring, kama, kali or some interesting porridges youll nd it here. Cosy atmosphere too.QA-3, Pikk 29 (in Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 03, garden@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . J6W KULdse NotsU Krts Heaven for pork-lovers, at the Golden Piglet Inn the cooks even put bacon in the bread! This country-style Estonian restaurant undeniably caters to the tourist crowd, but we really liked the bright, folk-art motif. The menu is much more interesting than the heavy food however, oering such dishes as the Estonian sausage feast for two get your minds out of the gutter ladies, or the ever popular crisp pork knuckle with sauerkraut. Despite the carnivorous theme, a selection of vegetarian dishes are available for those herbivores out there.QC-2, Dunkri 8, tel. (+372) 628 65 67, knk@schlosslehotels.com, www.hotelstpetersbourg.com/kuldse-notsukorts.html. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . JUISW LiisU JUUres Set in a historic cellar on Town Hall Square, youll nd authentic Estonian food presented in a gourmet fashion at Liisus Place. Choices such as pork knuckle for 2, served with sweet and sour red cabbage and braised potatoes are on oer as are frisky sausages for the kids, all of which can be enjoyed on the outdoor summer terrace, weather and season permitting.QC-2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644 19 83, info@liisujuures.ee, www.liisujuures.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . JIS Vanaema JUUres True to its name, Grandmas Place treats its guests to a warm welcome and a cosy dining room lled with antiques. Take heart that theres no sign of the big, bad wolf here, though wild boar is occasionally on the menu. Elk roast is a regular feature and the lamb with bleu cheese comes highly recommended. Reservations are a good idea for Friday and Saturday evenings.QC-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372) 626 90 80, vanaema.juures@mail.ee, www.vonkrahl.ee/vanaemajuures/. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. . TJS facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

The restaurant offers an authentic Estonian cuisine and is located in the exquisitely restored stonevaulted hall in Meriton Old Town Garden hotel. Pikk 29/ Lai 24, Tallinn

www.meritonhotels.com/eng

ESTONiaN RESTaURaNTS
It used to be that if you walked into an Estonian restaurant in Tallinn, you could expect to nd a lot of heavy pork dishes on the menu as well as the traditional fare of herring and potatoes, sauerkraut etc. These days, however, there are two classes of Estonian restaurants - new Estonian cuisine and traditional. The new cuisine is usually a fusion of traditional and international cuisines along with the chefs own vision of what Estonian cuisine should be. These eateries use primarily fresh, local and often organic ingredients wherever possible. Both have their own merits - the traditional cuisine will leave your belly warm and full and the new will usually be more of a feast for your senses.

RESTaURaNT TipS
Although the food quality in Tallinn has gone way up over the past few years, the service quality still lags behind the rest of the civilised world. Youll still have to ask for most of those little extras like butter with your rolls and fresh ground pepper when you can clearly see the giant pepper-grinder from the corner of your eye. Another thing that has become inevitable is the excruciatingly long wait for the cheque at the end of the meal, even when youve clearly stated that you are nished. Weve been trying for some time to start some sort of a mini cultural revolution in this regard, but until things change we suggest you just be upfront with the server and demand your bill when you get the chance. That being said, please tip your server if they are the least bit friendly or attentive, after all, they are among the lowest wage earners in the country. Approximately 10% is fairly standard, well leave it up to you. February - March 2014 43

NOUVEaU ESTONiaN
KaeraJaan Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Estonian-themed restaurant with a modern twist. It consists of a caf on the main floor and a slightly more formal restaurant in the top floor. You wont find any of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience.QC-2, Raekoja plats 17, tel. (+372) 615 54 00, kaerajaan@ kaerajaan.ee, www.kaerajaan.ee. Open 12:00 22:00. . JW 42 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Restaurants
Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, info@beerhouse.ee, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 02:00. . J6EXS SchnitZeL HaUs Accordion-heavy pop hits, wooden beer hall tables and vaulted ceilings, come together to form this den of schnitzel. The menu consists mainly of... well - schnitzel and they will certainly have you yodelling. Just in case youre not in the mood for a pounded-at, breaded and fried meal, theyve also got a few other meaty mains to choose from and a Radler on the drink menu was also a plus.QD-2, Rtli 28/30, tel. (+372) 645 00 59, schnitzelhaus@ schnitzelhaus.ee, www.schnitzelhaus.ee. Open 12:00 24:00. . TJ6ISW

Restaurants
INDiaN
Chakra The atmosphere comes complete with authentic, often naughty, knick-knacks from India. The food is prepared with care, using top-notch ingredients and recipes, some of which only the best chefs from the home country can pull o. In short, we think that it probably wont be the last time well dine here.QB-3, Bremeni kik 1, tel. (+372) 641 26 15, info@chakra.ee, www.chakra.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . JSW ELevant This is an exceptional Old Town alternative to medieval theme restaurants. Beautiful dcor from the entry foyers antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse earthy sheik furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal. The sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the menu, oering a wide selection of innovative, carefully prepared Indian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners should pay particular attention to the meat selection.QC2/3, Vene 5, tel. (+372) 631 31 32, elevant@elevant.ee, www.elevant.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TJS MaharaJa Of all the Indian restaurants in Tallinn, this old favourite on Town Hall Square is the most formal and the most involved - someone even greets you at the door and fusses over you until youre seated. The food here is absolutely amazing, so if you dont mind the fact that an order of rice here costs the same as a full meal elsewhere, its a ne choice. Every detail here is authentic, from the large likeness of Vishnu down to the mango chutney.QC-2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644 43 67, info@maharaja. ee, www.maharaja.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . JS

GREEK
Artemis Taverna This longtime, authentic Greek establishment may have moved from their former location but the quality and experience certainly hasnt changed. Owned by two Greek brothers, one of them is always onsite to ensure your dining is delightful. Theyve pretty much got everything covered from the home-made pitas, the freshly prepared tzatziki and truly tasty grilled meats. A good selection of vegetarian items are also available for those that lean in that direction. The atmosphere is both airy and cosy, consisting of a mountain side and an island side, making it a good choice for groups and intimate encounters. Yassas!QD-2, Harju 7, tel. (+372) 644 11 14, info@artemis.ee, www.artemis. ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 21:00. . JBS Syrtaki Taverna One of the very few eating establishments located on Toompea, this little Greek Tavern serves up hearty, meat and onion-laden dishes even Zorba could appreciate. Although weve had better, expect to nd a plethora of Greek favourites prepared according to traditional recipes. Be warned though that portions here are rather large and the meals meant for two could almost feed an army.QC-1, Piiskopi 1, tel. (+372) 644 60 76, syrtaki@hot.ee, www. syrtaki.ee/tavern. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. . JIS

FRENcH
Bonaparte Youll be hard pressed to nd a more elegant locale for French cuisine. Set in an amazingly restored 17th-century merchants house, Bonaparte is a high-class aair all the way, from the complimentary elk carpaccio to the wine and cheese cellar. The portions seem small though - maybe it was the huge plates.QB-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, bonaparte@bonaparte.ee, www.bonaparte.ee. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. . JSW Cest La Vie One of the most impressive restaurants weve had the pleasure of reviewing comes in the form of this snazzy cellar venue. From the black and gold 1920s motif to the friendly service and the heated oors, Cest La Vie gets top marks. The internationally infused menu contains just the right amount of Frenchness and the artfully prepared food is more than magnique. We think its the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or just a classy start to any evening out.QC-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48, info@ cestlavie.ee, www.cestlavie.ee. Open 13:00 - 24:00. . JESW Restoran LUsikas Although based on the menu items, which change fairly often, this nice little restaurant isnt by any means 100% French. They do however oer a fair amount of French 44 Tallinn In Your Pocket

or French-inspired dishes and based on our last experience it was quite a delight to eat here. The service was prompt and friendly, the atmosphere intimate, the cuisine was certainly tasty and the wine list was excellent. Great place to bring a date or a small group of friends. Live music on weekends.QC-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 646 30 30, info@ restoranlusikas.ee, www.restoranlusikas.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. . JUIEW

faST fOOD
McDonaLds & McCaf Theres a chance that eating burgers everyday may make you fat. There, we warned you. Please dont sue us. At this location you can also enjoy a pretty decent latte and some scrumptious cakes alongside your Royal with Cheese, thanks to the attached McCaf.QC-3, Viru 24, tel. (+372) 631 44 33, www. mcdonalds.ee. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 04:00. iJSW SQUare Kebab This may or may not be the best kebab place in town depending on who you ask or what your denition of a good kebab place is. Regardless of that, they certainly have a huge selection of things that you can eat alongside kebab meat and the location is easy to nd.QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 9 (in tunnel), tel. (+372) 699 95 50, info@squarekebab.ee, www.squarekebab.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. LS

GERMaN
Baieri KeLder All the classic beer-hall elements are presented in the Hotel St. Barbaras cellar restaurant. Its got the vaulted stone ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and the obligatory, outrageously happy, piped-in schlager music. The menu oers things like Bavarian hunter sausages and Wiener Schnitzel alongside a few, not so heavy items as well. Our pike-perch came decently prepared and was served with traditional potato dumplings. Zum wohl!QE-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00 47, kristiina@baierikelder.ee, www. stbarbara.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. . TUILXSW Beer HoUse In keeping with its beer-drinking theme, the menu at Tallinns only microbrewery lists six dierent kinds of sausages (pizza also available). The real reason to stop in though is the beer-hall ambience and the unpasteurised, home-made brew, which comes in seven varieties.QC-2, tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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February - March 2014

45

INTERNaTiONaL

new Caf MarGo This little cellar caf has a great location, but is easily missed INTERNaTiONaL if youre not looking for it. The interior has been done up new in the Jugenstil-style and is surprisingly roomy for a subterranean Caf MarGo eatery. The menu focuses on Estonian, Eastern This European little cellar and Russian caf has cuisines a great - alongside location, some but is easily international missed favourites if youre and not the looking prices for are it. decent The interior considhas been ering the done proximity up in the to Town Jugenstil-style Hall Square. and is surprisingly QC-2, Vanaturu roomy for a subterranean eatery. The menu focuses on Estonian, kael 10, tel. (+372) 641 89 00, info@margo.ee, www. Eastern European and Russian cuisines - alongside some margo.ee. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . iJ international favourites and the prices are decent considering the proximity to Town Hall Square.QC-2, Vanaturu CLaZZ Occupying prime, Town location, falls some- www. kaela 10, tel. Old (+372) 641 89 00, Clazz info@margo.ee, where between trendy restaurant and a. plush lounge bar margo.ee. Open 10:00 - 23:00. iJ with live music on most nights. Actually, the sprawling establishment has plenty of room to be both. The menu oers CLaZZ a medley of international favourites with an emphasis on someOccupying a prime, Old Town location, Clazz falls jazzy dishes youd expect to nd only in the Dirty South. where between trendy restaurant and a plush lounge bar QC-2, Vana 2, tel.on (+372) 90 22, clazz@clazz.ee, with Turg live music most627 nights. Actually, the sprawling eswww.clazz.ee. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat oers tablishment has plenty of room to be both. The menu 12:00 - 04:00, Sunof 14:00 - 01:00. . J6UEW a medley international favourites with an emphasis on jazzy dishes youd expect to nd only in the Dirty South. CrU QC-2, Vana Turg 2, tel. (+372) 627 90 22, clazz@clazz.ee, Cru oers up just the same service that -you www.clazz.ee. Open quality 18:00 - and 01:00, Fri 14:00 04:00, Sat would expect Ribe and Platz, who also to the 12:00 -from 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. .belong J6UEW same group of eateries. The interior is stylish, the cuisine creativeCrU and the sta are ready to serve you. Portions tend to be a little smaller than we personally would like,service but perCru oers up just the same quality and that you haps the extra expect caloriesfrom arent needed anyway. We didbelong how- to the would Ribe and Platz, who also ever compensate by ordering oneThe of their excellent desserts. same group of eateries. interior is stylish, the cuisine QC-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 614 are 00 85, info@crurestoran.eu, creative and the sta ready to serve you. Portions tend www.crurestoran.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . JW D.O.M This restaurant with great upscale ambiance has a level of quality far above many of the other restaurants on the Square. Set in a historic building, the style is both excellent, yet cosy enough not to make one feel uncomfortable. The menu is decidedly international, with French leanings and some creative Asian-fusion items to choose from as well. Perhaps what we found most impressive was that the proprietors and the head-chef have a true passion for great food. Theyve essentially created a place where they themselves would like to dine. The rib-eye steak was one of the best weve ever had in Tallinn and the price was well under that of similar establishments. A great wine list rounds out the experience - not to mention the fabulous desserts. QC2, Kinga 1, tel. (+372) 644 07 07/(+372) 58 87 10 03, info@ dom-restaurant.ee, www.dom-restaurant.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . J6SW Dominic The historic Dominic has two dierent faces - an elegant black & white caf in the front and a luxurious restaurant in the back. The caf is a great place to nibble on a slice of cake while enjoying a rich espresso or to even indulge in

Restaurants

Restaurants
to be a little smaller than we personally would like, but perhaps the extra calories arent needed anyway. We did however compensate by ordering one of their excellent desserts. QC-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 614 00 85, info@crurestoran.eu, www.crurestoran.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . JW D.O.M This restaurant with great upscale ambiance has a level of quality far above many of the other restaurants on the Square. Set in a historic building, the style is both excellent, yet cosy enough not to make one feel uncomfortable. The menu is decidedly international, with French leanings and some creative Asian-fusion items to choose from as well. Perhaps what we found most impressive was that the proprietors and the head-chef have a true passion for great food. Theyve essentially created a place where they themselves would like to dine. The rib-eye steak was one of the best weve ever had in Tallinn and the price was well under that of similar establishments. A great wine list rounds out the experience - not to mention the fabulous desserts. QC2, Kinga 1, tel. (+372) 644 07 07/(+372) 58 87 10 03, info@ dom-restaurant.ee, www.dom-restaurant.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . J6SW Dominic The historic Dominic has two dierent faces - an elegant black & white caf in the front and a luxurious restaurant in the back. The caf is a great place to nibble on a slice of cake while enjoying a rich espresso or to even indulge in one of the light bites on oer. For a more formal experience, table cloth napkins and all, the restaurant might just t the bill - and cost a few too.QC-3, Vene 10, tel. (+372) 641 04 00, dominic@restoran.ee, www.restoran.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. . J6W new Manna La Roosa Certainly the most interesting restaurant in Old Town, Manna La Roosa is housed in a historical apothecary and even the artworks and antique furniture is on the menu. With a Michelin starred chef as the creative force behind the international cuisine and a wacky artist in charge of the 'ber-kitsch' interior decorating - La Roosa literally brings a lot to the table. Needless to say, drinking or dining here is quite an adventure for pretty much all of your senses. The main menu is only on oer after 6pm though, however, their daily lunch oerings are quite decent, both in the taste and price category. QC-4, Vana-Viru 15, tel. (+372) 620 02 49, info@mannalaroosa. com, www.mannalaroosa.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. . J6 OLematU RteL One of the very few places on Toompea to grab a bite, the Non-existent Knight is tucked into an alley and we give it mixed reviews overall. The historic building is cosy enough, but seems a little pricey given the location - mind you, up on the hill there isnt a whole lot of choice when it comes to grabbing a bite. I think they genuinely give it a good go though and put their heart into what they do tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Modern European cuisine

Restaurann

Kinga str. 1, Tallinn www.dom-restaurant.ee

+372 6 440 707

Toww Hall Squarr,

Kingg 1

which cant be said for too many eateries in town. The cuisine on oer tends towards Estonian favourites and they prepare everything quite well. Inquire about their sauna and accommodations as well.QC-1, Kiriku pik 4a, tel. (+372) 631 38 27, info@olematu.ee, www.olematu.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00. . iTJ6UVESW RataskaevU 16 It seems as though lately the inspiration for coming up with good restaurant names has been lost - it took this establishment about a year to come up with a street name and number. A lack in creative naming aside, the quality of food and the rather cosy interior make this a decent stop for a bite - if you can get a table. For some strange reason they seem to be on or near number one according to Tripadvisor for Tallinn and tend to be fully booked these days because of that - in short, you should probably make a reservation.QC-2, Rataskaevu 16, tel. (+372) 642 40 25, rataskaevu16@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. . J6SW RESTORAN KADRIORG This trendy, glass-covered restaurant ts perfectly with the poshness of its Kadriorg surroundings. Its made up of three smartly decorated oors, one with giant forks slyly worked into the design. The primarily Mediterranean-style menu stretches from oysters to penne with smoked chicken or chateaubriand served on a hot-stone.QG-5, Weizenbergi 18, tel. (+372) 601 36 36, info@restorankadriorg.ee, www.restorankadriorg. ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. . TS facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Senso With loads more character and cutting-edge dcor than your typical hotel restaurant, the stylish Senso pulls in a good number of business people and other civilians from around town. The huge range of cuisine on oer includes sandwiches, burgers, pastas, pizzas and grilled items, all served with a professional (but not over-starched) manner. Theyve also got a pretty decent menu for kids - if they happen to join you for lunch.QH-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 631 58 70, senso@radissonblu.com, www. restoransenso.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:30. . TULSW Von KrahLi Aed The Garden is a highly chic establishment with plenty of opportunity to lounge while enjoying a fresh meal or light snack. The emphasis here is on healthier choices and you can choose from mains that involve spelt, hemp seeds and other intriguing additions. They even mark items on the menu that contain gluten, eggs and lactose. We thought the duck llet cooked at a low temperature with roasted vegetables and Pltsamaa wine sauce seemed rather interesting.QC-2, Rataskaevu 8, tel. (+372) 626 90 88, aed@vonkrahl.ee, www.vonkrahl.ee/aed/. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . J

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February - March 2014 47

46 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Restaurants
ITaLiaN
Due, perhaps in part, to the inux of Italian men who have seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather endless supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a plethora eateries in this category. Were not complaining though, both the food and the blondes are bella. BasiiLik PiZZa & Pasta Truly an unexpected nd. Though not quite rivalling the best Italian cuisine in town, for a restaurant thats in a giant cinema house, Basiilik is surprisingly high-quality. Soups, pastas and other mains are served by friendly sta in a nicer-thanaverage dining room. Crowds ebb and ow according to the lm schedule and their all-you-can-eat, pizza and soup buet times, which run Mon-Fri 11:30-15:00.QG-3, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola Plaza, tel. (+372) 56 50 99 91, info@basiilik.ee, www.basiilik.ee. Open 11:30 - 23:00. . SW Bocca A smart, slick establishment where youd expect to run into super-chic members of Tallinns A-list, or maybe a supermodel or two. Bocca delivers formal, professional service and an inventive array of pastas and lletos (llets), all under the watchful eye of award-winning chef Nicolo Tanda. The attached loungy bar is a swank place for a post meal cognac. Make reservations on weekends. QB-3, Olevimgi 9, tel. (+372) 611 72 90, bocca@bocca. ee, www.bocca.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 13.00 - 22:00. . J6S Controvento Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine.QC-3, Vene 12/Katariina kik, tel. (+372) 644 04 70, info@controvento.ee, www.controvento.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:45. . JISW new GLadiatori - Sapori di Roma This quirky little lounge/caf is actually an authentic Italian place and according to some, even has the best Italian-style pizza in town. Although we think thats a pretty bold statement to make and certainly debatable, the pizza is in fact delicious. They also oer a wide variety of cold and hot cuisine, as well as a pretty decent selection of beverages from the old country. Live music on some nights.QC-2, Rataskaevu 22, tel. (+372) 55 64 66 19. Open 10:00 - 02:00. . JESW PULcineLLa Certainly one of the few actual delights weve had the pleasure of reviewing as of late, this very authentic, Neapolitan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give you the complete experience. From the native chefs and owner to the sprawling miniature scene complete with running water, we quite enjoyed the ambiance. The cuisine was also delightful and our pizza one of the best weve had in Tallinn.QC-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 56 22 96 91, info@pulcinella.ee, www.pulcinella.ee. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. . JSW Trattoria GaLLo Nero This Italian-owned Trattoria on Lai street has a lot of charm, warmth and authentic Italian cuisine at reasonable prices. Our meal was pleasantly well prepared and lled with amore. All in all, a decent place to dine or hang out just wrapped around a glass of wine. They oer a wide variety of Italian specialities as well as bottles of Italian crushed and fermented noble grapes.QB-2, Lai 32, tel. (+372) 646 40 10, trattoria@italbaltica.com, www.trattoriagallonero. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . J6SW Vapiano Vapiano is a European chain of self-service, market concept restaurants where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you arrive at the door youre given a plastic card, then proceed to the area of your choice to place your order (pasta, salad/antipasti or pizza) and the items are charged to the card. The majority of mouth-watering food items and fresh, thats right - fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesnt take too long either, but youll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your pie is piping hot. The prices are delightfully aordable and the food bella!QB-3, Hobujaama 10, tel. (+372) 682 90 10, foorum@ vapiano.ee, www.vapiano.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00 Also at: D/E-3/4 Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), solaris@vapiano.ee, tel. 628 59 99. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. . USW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
JapaNESE
SiLk Just o the square, this sleek and trendy sushi spot has made a big splash with those who are willing to spend. All varieties are available - maki sushi, baked sushi, spicy sushi, etc. Eightpiece maki dishes generally run 1.60 - 6.10, while larger assortments go from 14.70 - 31.30. Other Japanese dishes are also available in the tasteful, black-lined restaurant. You can even order sushi online and have it delivered to your hotel. QC-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 648 46 25, silk@silk. ee, www.silk.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00 Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 15, tel. 661 60 99. Open 11:00 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. . JSW

SUSHi
Sushi is currently quite popular in Tallinn these days and the number of places that oer the Japanese street food have sky-rocketed. Here is a list of just some of the many places around town oering sushi these days. Oishii SUshi You spin me right round baby right round... okay, well stop there. This fast-food sushi place is the only one of its kind in the city and even though the chefs arent from Japan, or Korea, the quality was actually quite decent. The items are all laid-out on a conveyor belt or kaiten, the plates are colour-coded for price and thats pretty much it.QH-3, Rvala pst. 5, tel. (+372) 648 14 17, oishiisushieesti@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (1-3 per plate). S SiLk SUshi Bar The newest addition to the Silk sushi family is located conveniently in a shopping centre. Eight-piece maki run 1.90 - 12.45, nigiri 1.90 - 3.85, and combos range 14 - 31.30.QC-4, Viru Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, (first floor), tel. (+372) 610 15 81, info@silk.ee, www.silk. ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. JUSW SUshihoUse Located in the sparkling Solaris centre and the recipient of a silver spoon gastronomy award, this sushi bar presents six-piece maki ranging from 1.90 - 4.10, nigiri 0.90 - 3.40, and combos 5 - 31.40.QD-3, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 682 57 77, info@ sushihouse.ee, www.sushihouse.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00 Also at: B-4, Rotermanni 5 / Roseni 10, (+372) 680 16 15. Open 11:00 - 22:00. JLXS Zebra Caf A little on the pricey end of the chopstick but very professionally prepared, this trendy lounge restaurant oers up eight-piece maki for 6.70 - 15, nigiri 1.90 - 4.15 and combos 19.80 - 35.45.QG-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372) 610 92 30, info@zebracafe.ee, www.zebracafe.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. VS facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 49

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48 Tallinn In Your Pocket

12

KARJA QUARTER
LUXURY SHOPPING DISTRICT

Suur-Karja 20 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 10:00 - 18:00, SUN 10:00 - 16:00

Prnu mnt.10 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 18:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

11

11

Valli 4 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SUN 11:00 - 17:00

Prnu mnt. 10 / Vike-Karja 12 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

10
M iv r e ah 5
10

1
Vike-Karja 7 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 18:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

12 4

9 3 8 7
Prnu mnt.12 / Suur-Karja 20 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

Prnu mnt.10/Suur-Karja 23 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

Area is located in sections C/D-2/3 on the Old Town map. Turn to page 87 for the full list of shops and details.

Harju 6 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

BeauMonde
jewellery salon

Prnu mnt.12 MON - SAT 10:00 - 19:00, SUN 10:00 - 16:00

Prnu mnt.12 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT, SUN 11:00 - 17:00

Vike-Karja 1 MON - FRI 11:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN Closed

Vike-Karja 10 MON - FRI 11:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 18:00, SUN 12:00 - 16:00

Restaurants
MEaTY cHOicES
Goodwin SteakhoUse Goodwin has tried hard to be the best steakhouse in Tallinn and it probably is, even though its really the only one. The interior is rich and woody, the service is ecient and the imported cuts of beef are excellent. If a full-on beef-fest is a little too heavy, you could always drop by during the week for their business lunch specials. QC-3, Viru 22, tel. (+372) 661 55 18, info@steak.ee, www.steak.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00. . JS GriLLhaUs DaUbe A huge step up from the typical throw-the-pork-on-there grill house, Daube is a roomy, two-oor aair decorated in a warm style thats the very denition of smart casual. Expect smiling service and happy tastebuds. Find it in a nicely redone little house just o Harju street.QD-2, Rtli 11, tel. (+372) 645 55 31, daube@daube.ee, www. daube.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . JIS MUnGa KeLder Overtly geared toward tourists, the Monks Cellar is essentially a basement bar turned upscale by the clever use of table linen and glasses. Meat and sh dishes are served up along with awful, saxophone versions of 70s hits. The salmon in foil was mediocre and the service indierent.QC-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 46 14, mungakelder@gmail.com, www.mungakelder.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . JI OLiver A diligent, carved wooden waiter spends all day long on Viru tnav trying to entice people into this cellar restaurant, where meaty items like entrecote and steak dominate the menu. Other choices such as a vegetable wok are available to the less protein inclined. The kids play area and eight-page childrens menu certainly make this a good stop for families.QC-3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 630 78 98/ (+372) 53 47 47 41, info@oliver.ee, www.oliver.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . TJUIESW RevaLia GriLL HoUse With its enviable location right on Old Towns main square, Revalia is never wanting for customers. The interior dcor makes it look a bit like an art shop, but theres no mistaking the menu - tenderloin steaks and other grill items of the type that are popular around this part of Europe. QC-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 39 22, www.restaurantrevalia.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. . TJUS Tommi GriLL Metro This oddly located grill actually surprised us - and in a good way. Although we had to order at the bar, service was snappy, of the friendly variety and the food was overall to our liking. We suggest you stick with the grilled meat choices though as it seems to be what they do best.QC-4, Viru vljak 2 (Metro Plaza), tel. (+372) 662 20 99, tommigrill@ gmail.com, www.tommigrill.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00 Also at: I-2, Tatari 64, tel. 625 78 16. Open 10:00 - 07:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 07:00. . JS 52 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Restaurants
MEDiEVaL
Maikrahv Named for the May Count of Tallinns medieval days of yore, this respectable establishment hidden under Town Hall Square hints at old-style regality all the while providing a decidedly modern and down-to-earth dining experience that wont bust your budget. The menu is international, dominated by llets with a couple of pastas thrown in for good measure. Delicately prepared food and professional service made the experience come o without a hitch.QC-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 42 27/(+372) 55 51 45 17, reserve@maikrahv.ee, www.maikrahv.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . JES OLde Hansa Many frequent travellers would say that you havent really been to Tallinn unless youve visited Olde Hansa. This Mecca of mediaevalism in the heart of Old Town doesnt just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully-researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music. Chamber musicians round out the ambience every night of the week. Make sure to check out Olde Hansas Waggehus located just around the corner at Vanaturu Kael 8.QC-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20, reserve@oldehansa.ee, www. oldehansa.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00. . J6UIE Peppersack Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medieval-ness. The menu is European-based and fun-loving, with clever choices like Lady Margaretas weakness (chicken llet) and Mansion Lords contemplation (duck llet). The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch. Every day around 20:00 theres a theatrical sword ght on the staircase, on Fridays and Saturdays followed by Oriental dancing.QC-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 68 00, peppersack@peppersack.ee, www.peppersack.ee. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. . TJUW

MOLDOVaN
New LaUtarii MoLdovan Tavern Moldovan cuisine is pretty similar to Romanian and also has a lot in common with dishes of other Eastern European countries. Emphasis being on heavy meat items with potatoes and cabbage as supplements. The same holds true with what is on oer here, although they also have some decent steak prices, we found that all in all this eatery didnt really oer anything extra special to tempt the customer. Perhaps the best part about it are the decent Moldovan wines on oer. QB-3, Uus 25, tel. (+372) 669 99 22, www.lautarii. ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. . J tallinn.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 53

Restaurants
MEDiTERRaNEaN
AdmiraL A meal at this smart restaurant built into an old steam ship, has to be one of the most unforgettable dining experiences in town. The service and atmosphere here harken back to times when a luxury sea voyage was the height of class. Youre also encouraged to check out the multitude of old photos, model ships and seafaring memorabilia that grace the interior. The impressive view of Tallinn harbour through the portholes is unquestionably 100% Estonian, but the menu here is actually more Mediterranean and prepared by a French chef. If that werent enough youll also be treated to a complimentary shot of Admirals pepper vodka with your meal.QG-3, Lootsi 15, tel. (+372) 662 37 77, admiral@estpak.ee, www.aurulaevadmiral.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TLXS ALter EGo One of the most delightful culinary experiences weve had in some time comes in the form of this heavily Spanish-inuenced, Mediterranean-style restaurant located in the fashionable Rotermanni Quarter. The owner is Spanish with roots in the wine industry and he certainly knows how to lavish his creativity and highly tuned palate into producing top-notch cuisine. Needless to say, the wine selection is immense and the dishes are mouthwatering.QB-4, Roseni 8 (Rotermanni Quarter), tel. (+372) 54 56 03 39, info@alterego.ee, www.alterego. ee. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. . J6ULSW Restoran Maa Despite its rather far-out location, Maa isnt too far a walk from Old Town and quite an authentic experience overall. Considering the location though and the value for money, wed probably prefer one of the Russian restaurants closer to Old Town. The blini and caviar were admittedly quite tasty and well prepared and the other dishes we managed to scope out were also a feast for the eyes. QLootsi 14, tel. (+372) 600 36 33, restoran@restoranmasha.ee, www.restoranmasha. ee. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:00. . EW Troika One of Tallinns must-see cellar restaurants, Troika wows its clientele with a cosy, old-style Russian dcor and a singer who belts out folk songs from a balcony from time to time. (When choosing your table, you may want to consider just how close you want to be to this spectacle.) But the best thing about this place is the food - excellent bliny and pelmeni as well as a selection of traditional main courses. Great service. Book ahead.QC-2, Raekoja plats 15, tel. (+372) 627 62 45, restoran@troika.ee, www.troika.ee. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . JUIEX U Natai Kind of like the little brother to their Balalaika restaurant, the Russian Eatery is more laid-back and caf-like featuring daily dishes, dumplings, soups, blinis and crpes. Its the kind of place where one can hang around a while, read a book, surf the internet or just enjoy a conversation with a friend. Great desserts too!QA-3, Lai 49 (Meriton Old

Restaurants
Town hotel), tel. (+372) 614 13 50, www.meritonhotels. com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. . J Vana Moskva Typical of the Meriton chain in Tallinn, this Russian buet/ la carte restaurant certainly provides the right mix of style, quality and service one would expect from them. You can either opt for the daily buet for a xed price or choose something from the small but tantalising la carte menu. Naturally all the Russian favourites are on oer from borscht to blinis with caviar. A great selection of wines and vodkas round out the drinks menu.QB-2, Pikk 33, tel. (+372) 664 88 80, www. meritonhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . J

Exquisite treats from the Russian kitchen.

MiDDLE EaSTERN
MaGnUna Not to be confused with the title of the Eurovision song Maganuna, which was just frightening - this reincarnation of another Asian/Middle Eastern restaurant that uses to be located on Pikk Street, is actually quite decent. They currently side more with the Middle Eastern way when it comes to their menu and apparently their chefs have globe-trotted to Tallinn from Afghanistan, the Sudan and Lebanon. QB-2, Lai 42, tel. (+372) 682 54 22, magnuna@magnuna.ee, www.magnuna.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00 Also at: C-2, Pikk 35, tel. 682 95 80. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . JUSW

RESTAURANT BALALAIKA We offer an exclusive dining experience reflecting the extensive knowledge & passion for Russian art & cuisine. Paldiski mnt. 4, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa hotel RESTAURANT VANA MOSKVA An authentic Russian cuisine for a good price and good value - a cold and warm buffet and la carte menu are available. Pikk 33 RESTAURANT U NATAI The food is simply coming home to mom good and its hard to find more value for your money than that. Lai 49, Meriton Old Town hotel

RUSSiaN
BaLaLaika This Russian restaurant located in the agship Meriton hotel at the base of Toompea, oers up all the usual Russian fare youd expect, such as caviar and blinis and the dishes are all prepared quite nicely. One thing though that sets Balalaika apart from the others is that they also oer a cold zakuska buet, presented in an antique carriage from St. Petersburg - that, and the complimentary halfshot of vodka of course. Na Zdorovie!QH-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 667 71 20, conferencespa@meritonhotels.com, www. meritonhotels.com. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. . ULW NevskiJ Given the way the St. Petersbourg Hotels high-class restaurant is decorated, it might very well be mistaken for Russian intellectuals sitting room, were it not for the fact that a smart waiter greets you at your table with a vodka and caviar menu. Classic aristocratic staples are on oer and are done in a way that shows a clever chef at work. We enjoyed our food, and the fact that the complimentary vodka shots seemed to keep coming.QC-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 60, nevskij@schlossle-hotels.com, www. hotelstpetersbourg.com/nevskij-restaurant.html. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . JIESW tallinn.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 55

www.meritonhotels.com

54 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Restaurants
SEafOOD
new Bocca Pescheria Located inside the already highly acclaimed Bocca, this is kind of an eatery within a restaurant - but the focus here is on seafood. They get top marks for style, high-standards and creativity. The prices naturally are also a little on the high-end, but if you love seafood and are willing to shellout a little extra, then youll surely not be disappointed. QB-3, Olevimgi 9, tel. (+372) 611 72 90, www.bocca. ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 22:00. . J Fish & Wine With its polished design, this large restaurant looks more like a trendy lounge at first glance. The friendly table service, however, extends all the way to complimentary roll and olive oil. As the name implies, a selection of, mainly, fish dishes makes up the menu, and if youre stuck, the wines by the glass go with everything. Be aware that the price to portion ratio is a little lopsided, thank-God for the free bread.QC-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 662 30 13, gloria@fw.ee, www.fw.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. . J6SW

Restaurants
THai
KrUa One of the few truly Thai places in the city, Krua disappointed us. Dont get us wrong, the food that we nally managed to eat, after a frightfully long wait, was quite fresh and decent - but the service was a nightmare and it appeared that the waitress we had was in fact newer than the restaurant itself. Even our beer took over half an hour to get to us and after a few false food deliveries we were told that they had run out of spring rolls that we had ordered.QC-4, Vana-Viru 13/ Aia 4, tel. (+372) 646 26 13, info@krua.ee, www.krua.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. . JSW ViLLa Thai A well-established favourite in the Kadriorg district just outside the city centre, the Villa is a quiet, comfortable affair. Sit with the ceramic elephants and drapery of the dining room or head to the bamboo-filled atrium with its gurgling fountain. Interestingly, the menu goes well beyond Thailand, encompassing Vietnamese, Indonesian, Malaysian and Tandoor dishes. Some dishes are on the heavy side. We liked the fish cakes. QG-4, J. Vilmsi 6, tel. (+372) 641 93 47, villathai@ villathai.ee, www.villathai.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TUSW

TEX-MEX
AmariLLo Bright, friendly colours, hot (spicy) food, and a professional outlook set Amarillo a notch or two above most other Tex-Mex contenders. Other Yankee choices such as burgers are as available as quesadillas and fajitas. The vast dining area and large kids play corner, make this restaurant on the ground oor of the Original Sokos Viru Hotel a great choice for families, while two bars cater to an after-work or after shopping crowd, as is often the case.QC-4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 92 80, amarillo. tallinn@sok.fi, www.amarillo.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00. . TULES new Ancho This eatery has huge potential and in general we liked it. They did fall at in a couple of areas though and we think that if they x these things, it certainly could be a great contender for one of the best in its category. Other than their Corona price, the food was a little too expensive overall, especially given the location, style of place and quality - which was hit and miss. The Jalapeno poppers were quite tasty, but much pricier than several other spots nearby and lacking that signature crunch. The tacos came to us half cold and slightly soggy - as if they had been microwaved, but they did use shredded beef as opposed to ground meat. The burrito was quite tasty and properly done, but isnt on the regular menu. QMrivahe 17, tel. (+372) 660 04 98, ancho@ancho.ee, www.ancho.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. . J6SW 56 Tallinn In Your Pocket

THEME RESTaURaNTS
Korsaar Avast mateys! If youve ever dreamed of running away to become a pirate or a wench, nows your chance. This stunning pirate-themed restaurant goes way beyond anything weve ever seen in terms of attention to detail and authenticity. From gangplanks to shark tanks, this subterranean grotto has everything covered. The international food is equally fantastic, with leanings on the creole and seafood side of the port bow. This would be an awesome place for kids, sadly they insist on not allowing children under the age of 12 into the restaurant which we are not even sure is legal. Its also quite expensive, certainly a deterrent for those on a budget.QC-2, Dunkri 5 (Beer House), tel. (+372) 666 8064, booking@ korsaar.ee, www.korsaar.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . JXS TUrG The name in Estonian means market and thats exactly what this theatricaly-decorated cellar restaurant looks like inside - a classic, outdoor market square, complete with overhanging eves, a tree, chirping birds and some faux produce. That doesnt mean you can haggle over menu prices though. The food on oer tends towards the Eastern European with a few Italian pizzas thrown in for good measure. For the frugal try the lunch buet on oer Mon to Fri between 11:30 and 15:00.QC-2, Mndi 3, tel. (+372) 641 24 56, reserve@turg.ee, www.turg.ee. Open 11:30 - 24:00. . JS tallinn.inyourpocket.com

TRENDY RESTaURaNTS
PLatZ Everything old is new again - or at least in the Rotermanni Quarter it is. Its here youll nd this stylish yet elegant eatery nestled into an old, industrial limestone building. The artfully prepared cuisine, is an innovative and fresh fusion of European avours using local ingredients whenever possible. The service is equally crisp but not too starchy. We quite enjoyed the duck breast and the crme brle on our last visit.QB-4, Roseni 7, tel. (+372) 664 50 86, info@platz.ee, www.platz.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. . J6LES Ribe This Nordic-style eatery is a good representation of a current trend in Tallinn and the food and overall experience were excellent the last time we ate there. The intriguing menu items are all artistically presented and the interior design is just pretty as punch. We found the portions a little on the slim side, nonetheless the ambience, friendly service, fantastic wine list made a trip here worthwhile. QC-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 30 84, info@ribe.ee, www. ribe.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . TJ6

VEGETaRiaN
Unless youve got an odd fascination with potatoes and cabbage, you probably wont nd Estonia to be a very vegetarian-friendly country. There is currently only one, specically vegetarian restaurant and elsewhere its hard to nd anything that doesnt involve the everpresent pork chop. Your best bet is to go the ethnic food route. Indian, Thai and Chinese restaurants usually have vegetarian choices on the menu, and Italian/Pizza restaurants can always make something without meat. Urban Restoran Laid out in a warren of nicely spruced-up cellar rooms, the Merchants House Hotels vegetarian restaurant wins our praise for friendly service and its quiet and romantic ambience. The only eatery of its kind in Old Town, and probably even Tallinn for that matter, Urban oers up a wide variety of inspired vegetarian cuisine - and even two menu items for the carnivorous friend. The inspirations here are largely Mediterranean or Middle Eastern with selections such as various types of hummus, tabbouli and some great soups. The food is fresh, well prepared and healthy. Perfect spot to dine with a couple of friends, as most of the dishes are setup for easy sharing.QC-2, Dunkri 6, tel. (+372) 697 75 00, info@merchantshousehotel.com, www.merchantshousehotel.com. Open 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. . JISW February - March 2014 57

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Restaurants
UpScaLE
Bordoo Estonian for Bordeaux, the Three Sisters restaurant is in a class unto itself. The stylish interior combines a new world elegance with hints of its old world surroundings. Headed up by an award-winning chef and his energetic team, the focus here is on fresh local ingredients brought to life with creativity and flavourful ideas. To top it all off, they also create their very own artisan breads, scrumptious marmalades and to-die-for desserts. Afterwards youre invited to head downstairs to the Beluga Bar for even more temptations, of the liquid variety - top champagnes, the exclusive Beluga Vodka and a variety of caviar and other snacks are available in the intimate lounge. QA/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 55, bordoo@threesistershotel.com, www.threesistershotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . J GLoria Gloria has been synonymous with class and style since it opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior, youll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. In case you need more convincing, Cond Nast named Gloria one of the worlds 100 best. We found our meal here a relaxing, well-orchistrated experience.QD-2, Mrivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 00, gloria@gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sat 17:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. . JS KUninGa Restoran This kingly restaurant is more of an upscale eatery than just a place to find great seafood. Their menu, although prominently featuring seafood, offers other finely prepared dishes as well. The interior is a nice blend of antique and contemporary and the cuisine is also delightfully prepared by their competent kitchen staff and head-chef Rustam Chikalovets. Its also one of the few places in town where one can find fresh lobster and the only place in Tallinn where you can dine on marlin or skate wing. The lobsters are shipped in from Canadian waters and can be chosen by diners from the tank. Service and the wine list are also top-notch, making this a great choice for those whom enjoy the finer things in life.QC-2, Kuninga 3, tel. (+372) 646 60 08, info@kuninga.ee, www.kuninga.ee. Open 12:00 24.00. . JLSW M.C GriLL The Schlssle hotels venerated cellar restaurant is an elegant refuge decorated with colourful swaths of cloth that bring to mind a fairytale castle. Everything on the menu is exquisitely prepared by a team of award-winning chefs, making it well worth the price.QC-3, Phavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 80, sch@schlossle-hotels.com, www.schloesslehotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . J6IXSW tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Cafs
CLaSSic cafS
The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. Its not that these places dont have ambience - they do, but theyre more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in. AnneLi Viik Handmade ChocoLates Caf Chocoholics beware! This little, Old Town caf features Anneli Viiks handmade chocolates, made on the spot and sold either by the box for take-away, or in smaller portions to accompany your coee (or light food or cognac, etc). Theres even a glass wall that lets you watch the chocolatiers do their stu.QB-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 644 45 30, anneli@anneliviik.ee, www.anneliviik.ee. Open 11:00 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. J6USW LA BOHEME BRASSERIE & BAR Nicely done up with stone walls and cheerful orange tables, this slick little caf is a great stopping place for big, fresh, inexpensive pastries. More exotic items like passion fruit milkshakes and couscous salads are on oer, and the aquarium counter is an interesting addition.QG/H-2, Toompuiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660 07 00, laboheme@ uhotelsgroup.com, www.laboheme.ee. Open 08:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00 Breakfast served Mon-Fri from 07:00 - 10:00 and Sat-Sun from 7:30 - 10:30. . iTESW MademoiseLLe Considered for years to be one of Tallinns best places to get a delectable dessert, this classic caf still lives up to its reputation. Along with the many calorie-laden treats on oer, you can also nd a few decent savoury meals and a couple of breakfast options at each of the two locations around town.QB-3, Pikk 29 (Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 05, hotels@meritonhotels.com, www. meritonhotels.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Also at: H-2, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 628 81 55. Open 07:00 - 22:00. . TJSW Maiasmokk Tallinns oldest caf, the Sweet Tooth has been serving marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior.QC-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 40 79, www.kalev.eu/maiasmokk/kohvik. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. JS PikaJaLa Kohvik There arent too many places to grab a bite or a coffee when you reach the top of the hill that is Toompea, but this is one of them. A reincarnation of an old tourist trap of the same name has actually gotten much better and eating a light bite here wont break the bank.QC-1, Pikk jalg 16, tel. (+372) 648 14 28, aylika1@gmail.com, www.pikajalakohvik.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00. . J6SW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Treat yourself to the world-class cuisine at one of Tallinn's finest restaurants. Either for lunch or dinner, The Three Sisters and Bordoo welcome you with the utmost comfort and style.

Pikk 71/Tolli 2, Tallinn 10133 Estonia Tel (+372) 630 6300 info@threesistershotel.com www.threesistershotel.com

RevaL Caf Vene Its the one with the giant mocha pot. The atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable, the perfect spot to lounge out with a cup of joe and a friend. If youd rather have a read with your coee, head upstairs where theres less noise.QC-2/3, Vene 1, tel. (+372) 644 64 73, info@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:30 - 21:00. . J6UIESW SaiakanG One of the last of Old Towns simple and cheap cafs. Here youll nd plenty of salads, pastries and frugal, old folks. QC-2, Saiakang 3/5, tel. (+372) 644 30 55, www.saialill. ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. . JS

FINE DINING SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

Chef de Cuisine Rustam Tsikalovets "The International Kremlin Culinary Cup 2013 3 individual gold and absolute Cup winner

BaKERiES
Loads of little bakeries and cafs around town churn out tempting pastries and provide coee and tables to let you indulge on the spot. Here we have listed just a few that specialise in baked goods. Coco QD-3, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 672 27 22, info@cocopagar.ee, www.cocopagar.ee. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JS MademoiseLLe QH-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 55, www. meritonhotels.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. JS Peppersack Caf QC-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 69 95, peppersack@ peppersack.ee, www.peppersack.ee. Open 08:00 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JS February - March 2014 59

KUNINGA RESTAURANT Open every day 12 - 24 Kuninga 3, www.kuninga.ee info@kuninga.ee tel. (+372) 646 60 08

58 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Cafs
FaSHiONaBLE
Tallinns most en vogue cafs all oer full meals as well as the satisfaction that youre with the in crowd. Bonaparte Bistroo This bright and cheerful establishment in the Foorum shopping centre brings with it all of the goodness youd expect from the Estonian Bonaparte chain. Mouthwatering pastries, fresh daily dishes, delightful cakes and excellent coee. Great place for a quiet chat or to hunker down with a book a just cant put down. Now featuring a vegan menu for those not in touch with their omnivorous ancestry.QG-3, Narva mnt. 5 (The Foorum Centre), tel. (+372) 682 50 24, bistroo@bonaparte.ee, bistroo. bonaparte.ee. Open 07:45 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. . T6SW Kohvik SiniLind Brought to you by the same folks over at Must Puudel, and oddly enough decorated in largely the same way ie. Soviet and Scandinavian retro chic - the Cinema Caf Bluebird seemed to us to be pretty much just an extension of their other Bohemianesque locale, other than the fact that on Tuesday evenings they have an Estonian cinema night. These nights usually highlight a few lms from a certain era in Estonian lm history and are certainly geared to cinemaphiles. Quiz nights and live music on weekends as well, see their Facebook fan-page for details. QC-3, Mrivahe 50, kinokohvik@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 02:00. . JW MUst PUUdeL Black Poodle is a funky, retro eatery with a heavy Sovietliving-room feel and a cosy hang-out kind of atmosphere. The cuisine is kind of a blend between trendy and homestyle, the prices wont bankrupt you and there are even live entertainment events held some weekends.QD-3, Mrivahe 20, tel. (+372) 505 62 58, kohv.kohv@gmail. com. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 09:00 - 23:00, Wed 09:00 - 01:00. . JEW Vana Toomas Named after the famous Town Hall weather vane that can actually be seen from some of the tables here, this caf oers fresh baked goods, pizzas, salads and other hearty but healthy dishes. While nothing fancy, the food is quite decent and they even present respectable and inexpensive breakfast options from 08:30 - 11:00 every day. We dare you to try the cheesecake, you may or may not regret it.QC-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 42 27, reserve@ vanatoomas.ee, www.vanatoomas.ee. Open 08:30 24:00. . JS WabadUs The newest incarnation of this eatery, formerly known as Moskva and Kultus, just happens to hit the nail right on the head - so to speak. From the clean interior design and 1930s inspired outts to the delightfully prepared dishes 60 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Cafs
STYLiSH & COSY
These classy establishments are best for long chats with friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your next novel. BoGapott Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea, the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway. Fresh, aky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this combination caf, art shop and ceramics studio.QC1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JIW Bonaparte Nestled in a beautiful, 17th-century building, Bonaparte certainly has a rened atmosphere, but its a casual and surprisingly aordable place to sip earl grey and sample the buttery croissants and other home-made pastries. Sit and watch the world go by, or check out one of the revolving art exhibits.QB-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, bonaparte@bonaparte.ee, www.bonaparte.ee. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. . iJ6SW Cest La Vie This swanky establishments 1930s style interior will have you dancing the Charleston. The cuisine certainly has a French bent to it, and the romantic ambience makes this a great choice for a date.QC-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48, info@cestlavie.ee, www. cestlavie.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. TJ6ESW Josephine Brought to you by the same ne chocolatiers as Pierre located in the courtyard just down the street, the atmosphere at Josephine is quite a bit dierent a little swankier, and oh man, you have got to try the handmade chocolate. This is not a bad place to indulge your yourself in decadence.QC-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 641 82 91, pierre@ pierre.ee, www.pierre.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. . JSW Kehrwieder ChocoLaterie One of the best cafs in town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cave-like stone rooms lled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent gourmet coees, handmade chocolates and the Town Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned it can get crowded here.QC-2, Saiakang 1 (Raekoja Plats), tel. (+372) 55 56 72 03, saiakang@ kohvik.ee, www.kohvik.ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. JSW Kehrwieder KohvicUm A cheerful, warm atmosphere of ochre walls and gourmet coee awaits in the cellar of Tallinns Music House.QB-3, Uus 16c, tel. (+372) 642 70 26, www.kohvik.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00. JSW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket Kohvik Komeet This gem of a caf located in the sparkling new Solaris centre has great views, fresh foods and above all, killer desserts. Did we mention the awesome desserts? Because if you come here you should really try some of their excellent desserts.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 614 00 90, info@kohvikkomeet.ee, www. kohvikkomeet.ee. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 22:00. . T6SW KooGeL MooGeL This cosy caf tucked into a little corner on top of Toompea certainly makes you feel at home, whether youre interested in a lite bite, a coee or a dessert - in fact you may even want to have all three. It has a spacious play-area for the kids and doubles as a party-room for childrens birthday parties after regular hours. Great place to take the kids.QC-1, Toom-Kooli 13, tel. (+372) 662 67 67/(+372) 505 88 76, kohvik@piipjatuut.ee, www.piipjatuut.ee/en/. Open 11:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Make sure to call ahead if you want to head here after 5pm on weekdays - just in case theyve booked a party. TJS Pierre ChocoLaterie People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style caf for two reasons: One is that it has its own master Chocolatier who cooks up trues from scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere. Be warned that seats ll up fast and that during slow times they occasionally close a little early.QC-3, Vene 6 (in the Masters Courtyard), tel. (+372) 641 80 61, pierre@pierre.ee, www.pierre.ee. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00. JSW RevaL Caf Mrivahe The modish combination of jagged, medieval brick and cushy furnishings could only work in a place like Tallinn. Fine for intense philosophical debates or dessert. If debating has gotten you truly hungry, check out the restaurant in the back.QD-2, Mrivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 81 00, info@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. Open , Mon, Tue 07:30 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. TJ6UIXSW TiLL Ja KUmmeL (DiLL & ChamomiLe) Brits may nd it oensive but pretty much every, if not all, dishes served here contain the Estonian mainstay - dill. Not that every dish consists heavily of dill, but as their name suggests, the addition of the herb to every dish kind of serves as a calling card - so to speak. Every item we had here was enjoyed quite thouroughly and the burger certainly hit the mark - something we actually have a hard time with here in Tallinn. Lovely little courtyard too, weather permitting.QC-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 670 10 77, kohvik@till-kummel.ee, www.till-kummel.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . J6SW February - March 2014 61

and the snappy service, Wabadus will transport you back in time.QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 10, tel. (+372) 53 70 19 03/(+372) 644 42 32, wabadus@wabadus.ee, www. wabadus.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. . JEW XX saJand Located just across from the Tourist Information Centre, this is a great little spot for a light bite, a coee, a dessert or a cocktail - 20th Century is both cosy and central. You can tell that the owners have put their hearts into it and its one place we will certainly visit again.QC-2, Kullassepa 13, tel. (+372) 611 90 85, kohvik@xxsajand.ee, www.xxsajand. ee. Open , Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 22:00, Thu 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. . TJ6ESW

GOURMET SHOp cafS

These cafs not only serves gourmet food, but also sell the ingredients to let budding chefs dabble at home. Bonaparte DeLi All sorts of sweet and savoury delicacies are oered at the Bonaparte deli - and unlike its namesake, not all of them are short in stature.QB-3, Pikk 47, tel. +373 646 40 24, www.bonaparte.ee/deli. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JS GoUrmet CLUb A little pricey, but the quality and originality of products oered here just might tempt you into skipping out on the McDonalds Caf across the street.QC-3, Viru 17, tel. (+372) 507 22 20, kauplus@vertigogourmet.ee, www.vertigogourmet.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. JS tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife
One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign visitors, this just means theres more variety on oer. This section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that suits your mood, whatever that may be. Please keep in mind that many of the bars, lounges and pubs we have listed also offer extensive menus and are usually open at noon - making some of them quite viable options for lunch or dinner. HeLL HUnt If you just want to grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, Hell Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your best bet. An open, comfortable drinking establishment with a strong sense of style, it pulls in the locals by the droves with its no-nonsense atmosphere. While here, try the pubs own brand of light and dark beers (brewed in Viru lu). Good, cheap food too.QB-3, Pikk 39, tel. (+372) 681 83 33, hellhunt@hellhunt.ee, www. hellhunt.ee. Open 12:00 - 02:00. Age restriction 18+. J6IEXW Mad MUrphys Mad Murphys has taken over the space of Tallinns longest running, authentic Irish Pub - but have no fear, given the extensive renovations and commitment to excellence, Murphys should more than make up for the void that Mollys left behind. Its everything youd expect from an Irish Pub and a whole lot more. Featuring a well-ventilated smoking room, a dance-oor, more large-screens than you can shake a stick at and some fantastic live music on weekends, Murphys can certainly get quite mad any night of the week. They also serve up a variety of your favourite pub grub. Excellent selection of beers on tap. Murphys currently has a whiskey corner and the largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. A selection of samplers are also available for the whiskey connoisseur.QC-2, Mndi 2, tel. (+372) 625 45 44/(+372) 601 10 70, info@ madmurphys.ee, www.madmurphys.ee. Open 10:00 04:00. JXW Nimeta Baar (The PUb with No Name) In case the ags hanging out front dont give it away, Nimeta is the quintessential expat bar. At times it looks like something between a British stag party hangout and an expat boys club, but a good number of locals and backpacker types make it more interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. A good place to watch sports and/or eat pub food.QC/D-3, Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 641 15 15/(+372) 56 49 14 91, nimetabaar@hot.ee, www.nimetabaar.ee. Open 10:00 04:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. JUXW Shimo Housed in a medieval cellar, this little bar has an amazing selection of classic pub-grub (the kind that Brits and Americans crave while throwing a few cold ones back). In fact they hand-make the best chili poppers weve ever eaten. The kitchen is open late, the food prices are inexpensive - especially for Old Town and drinks are also aordable. The atmosphere is both cosy and bizarre at the same time. Make sure to check out the original 1500s glazed-tile replace in the corner. Live Djs host various music theme-nights (from the Doors to Sting etc.) on Fridays and Saturdays. QC-2, Kuninga 1, tel. (+372) 55 61 16 11/(+372) 55 98 70 45, shimo.lounge@hotmail.com. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. J6IESW 62 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife
SYMBOL KEY
6 Pets allowed I Fireplace
E Live music S Take-away W Wi J Old town location U Facilities for the disabled X Smoking area L Free parking N Payment in cash only

ciGaR LOUNGES
Pu to your hearts content in these highly urbane shop/lounges. ChicaGo 1933 This is hands-down, the best cigar lounge in the city. The lounge comprises the entire upstairs oor of the restaurant, contains a walk-in humidor, a copious amount of ne cigars and more cognac than could kill the entire line-up at the Kentucky Derby - thats horses and jockeys.QC-3, Aia 3, tel. (372) 627 12 66, info@ chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. Open , Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 03:00. JUXSW La Casa DeL Habano Owned by Estonias exclusive Cuban cigar distributor, this beautiful, casual Afro-Caribbean-style lounge has comfy chairs and a warm look. Its a sensible place to stop for a Cohiba or a cup of Cuban coee at the beginning or the end of your evening out. Friendly, professional service.QC-2, Dunkri 2, tel. (+372) 644 56 47, lcdh@havanas.ee, www.havanas.ee. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JXW SiGari MaJa (CiGar HoUse) The quiet, old-fashioned luxury at the Cigar House extends to wood panelling, a replace and busts of ancient Greek philosophers. If you want to sink into a leather sofa and sip expensive brandy, this is the place. A wide selection of Cuban, Dominican and other cigars on oer.QC-2, Raekoja plats 16, tel. (+372) 631 47 35, info@cigarhouse.ee. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Age restriction 21+. JIX

EXpaT HaNGOUTS
Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these bars and pubs are where Tallinns expats, a fare share of locals that like to speak English and more than a few tourists, tend to congregate. CLayhiLLs GastropUb Serving up gastronomical delights both by day and night, this is a great place to hang out in a relaxed atmosphere. Clayhills oers up a healthy selection of local and imported beers, heart-warming and creative pub cuisine and a healthy dose of live music on weekend evenings. Youll also be able to catch the latest football match on the big screens or watch Tallinn pass you by from one of the window seats. If youre looking for a more intimate experience, you can check out the cosy upstairs on the 2nd oor. QC-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93 12, clayhills@clayhills. ee, www.clayhills.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. . J6EW

ESTONiaN STYLE
If youre looking for a bit of local avour, try these. III Draakon (The Third DraGon) Tucked into the corner of Tallinns famous Town Hall, this teensy-weensy tavern has both a historic ambience and an enviable location. Better still, its owned by Olde Hansa so its guaranteed to be a great locale to grab a soup, pastry or a pint of mead. All drinks are 2, food is 1-3 and brine pickles in the barrel are FREE!QC-2, Raekoja plats 1 (Town Hall), tel. (+372) 627 90 20, draakon@ kolmasdraakon.ee, www.kolmasdraakon.ee. Open 08:00 - 24:00. JS KarJa KeLder A well-loved Old Town pub with a more relaxed, local feel than its expat-oriented neighbours, Karja Kelder is denitely one to seek out. The variety of cheap beer (and food) makes it a hit, as do the occasional live bands. One caveat is that it gets crowded in the evening, necessitating a totalitarian coat-check policy.QC/D-3, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 644 10 08/(+372) 644 65 87, karjakelder@gmail. com, www.karjakelder.ee. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. . JESW VaLLi Baar The Valli is denitely one Tallinn establishment you need to check out. Lets just say that it is so full of local colour, it even had a documentary made about it recently. Its also a well known fact that attractive blondes often head here for the house speciality Millimallikas cocktail before trawling for men over at Club Hollywood. This bar undoubtedly makes it seem cool to be a dirty old man.QD-2, Mrivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 83 79. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JE

HOw TO TOaST iN ESTONiaN

If you want to get in good with the locals, it never hurts to learn how to toast in the national language. Luckily its fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clinking their glasses and saying Terviseks (health). Its crucial, however, that you look your drinking companion in the eye just as your glasses are clinking. If you miss this step, the toast doesnt count and youll have to start all over! facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 63

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LiVE ENTERTaiNMENT
Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in particular are known as venues for live music. Caf Amigo (see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonias best acts. ChicaGo 1933 For some of the nest live blues this side of... well - Chicago, you can check out this swinging establishment just around the corner from the Viru Gates. The interior is all decked out in rich, dark wood and lled with large booths just like they have in the Windy City. Theres a strict no rearms allowed policy though, so make sure you check your guns at the door.QC-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66, info@chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. Open Mon, Tue 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. JUEXSW CLaZZ Not only is Clazz a great place to grab a bite all hours of the day or night, it has quickly turned into one of the most happening spots in town for live music - practically every night of the week! Expect a wide variety of local and international performers, with styles ranging from jazz to Latin and everything in between.QC-2, Vana turg 2, tel. (+372) 627 90 22, clazz@clazz.ee, www.clazz.ee. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. JUEW Comedy Estonia The kids who brought laughter to Estonia, perform shows and host comedy events all around the country. In Tallinn they hold a stand-up show at Hetk, usually at the beginning of every month. These shows feature some great up-and-coming international talent as well as local comics and the hosts themselves, Louis & Stewart. We quite enjoyed ourselves the last time we were there - naturally youre bound to hear a few mandatory groans mixed into the stew-pot of chuckles, but the entertainment factor was all good. The Tallinn stand-up night tends to draw quite the crowd, so get there early. They also frequently bring in some of the comedy worlds heavy-hitters at a larger venue in town. See website for upcoming shows and details. QB-4, Roseni 9/11 (Hetk), tel. (+372) 55 95 39 96, info@comedyestonia.com, www.comedyestonia.com/ events/. Every second Wednesday of each month, show starts at 20:00. Admission 6. JKXW Rock Cafe Built into an old factory building just past the citys bus station, this minimalist, two-story rock club is decidedly raw and industrial. Live acts - mainly rock but sometimes blues or funk - are booked every weekend, and the place boasts one of the best sound systems of any club in Estonia. Enter the courtyard, go right and up the stairs. Please note that you may nd them open only when there are live acts scheduled. See website for details.QH-4, Tartu mnt. 80d, 3rd floor, rc@rockcafe.ee, www.rockcafe.ee. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Admission 3 - 9. LEX 64 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Nightlife
KaRaOKE
Due to Tallinns proximity to the karaoke-loving nation of Finland, there are quite a few karaoke spots to be found here. By no means have we listed all the possible karaoke venues, but here are a few that specialise in the art of personal embarrassment. GeLsomino Karaoke With the camera on the outside and the doorbell, Gelsomino has strict face-control - i.e. if youre a drunken Finn, or if your wardrobe doesnt have the right brandname or it doesnt look like youre rich, they wont let you in. This is truly an upscale karaoke bar with decor and prices to match. It also seems theyre pretty much geared to high-rolling Russian guests.QC-2, Lai 2, tel. (+372) 58 54 85 49, info@gelsomino.ee, www.gelsomino.ee/et/ karaoke. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar Brought to you by the most popular vodka in Finland, this spot runs Karaoke every night except Sunday. They take this art-form so seriously they even hold competitions and have a client card.QB-4, Roseni 13, tel. (+372) 681 65 05, info@karaokebaar.ee, www. karaokebaar.ee. Open 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 03:00. Closed Sun. JXW SatUmaa Karaoke Bar Many Finns are pretty much born with the karaoke gene pre-installed. Satumaa is indeed Finnish owned and if you truly want the full-on karaoke experience, head down this alley o Viru on a weekend night for a truly bizarre time. Youll either wake up the next morning with a story stranger than ction, or youll wake-up in a strange hotel room with no idea what happened the night before - lying next to someone that even the best beer goggles wouldnt be able to x.QC-3, Viru 4, tel. (+372) 660 70 60, barsatumaa@mail.ru, www. satumaabar.com. Open 12:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. JEX Vana Toomas karaoke Oering karaoke two nights per week - this is by far the most central and even draws a fair amount of locals. QC-2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. (+372) 631 42 27, www. vanatoomas.ee. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 24:00. J Von KrahL The real name is Von Krahli Baar but regulars just call it Krahl. This down-to-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinns alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends towards students, punks and artsy types. Come by during the day for good, cheap pub food. QC-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372) 626 90 90, baar@ vonkrahl.ee, www.vonkrahl.ee. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JEW tallinn.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 65

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BaRS & PUBS
Assorted watering holes, each with its own style. Brewery Beer CLUb With 47 dierent beers to choose from (including Stella on tap), a stylish interior and excellent service - BBC certainly has a lot going for it. The cuisine did not quite live up to our expectations though. With the Estonian favourite, potato seasoning, blanketing our fries and a burger that literally fell apart in our hands under the weight of what appeared to be Caesar salad dressing - this addition to Tallinns dining and drinking scene, fell a little at when we last visited but we have been assured they are trying to improve upon what could be a really good thing.QC-2, Pikk 1, tel. (+372) 631 36 31, info@brewery.ee, www.brewery. ee. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. . JUIEXW Drink Bar & GriLL Although no longer aliated with Tallinns resident beerguru, they still oer a great selection of natural and live beers, a special house brew, unusual imports and even organic and still ciders. On a typical evening youll nd a lively bunch of patrons from all over the world; backpackers, locals and ex-pats all seem to congregate here. Whatever category you might t into youll be sure to have feel at home here, imbibing in a drink or otherwise. Check out their fantastic beer shop, located just around the corner.QD-3, Vike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 644 94 33, drink.barshop@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. J6IXW NYC Piano Bar Odd, rened, kitschy, stylish, trendy - all words that equally apply to this Piano Bar and eatery. Their menu prominently features many items that you could nd in New York city and they even have sliders - mini burgers which can be ordered in increments of 3, 6, or 9 at a time. Weve been asking various locales for years to put sliders on the menu - kudos to them for nally bringing them to Tallinn. Add to that an excellent cocktail menu and live music 5 days a week and we pretty much have a winner.QD-2, VanaPosti 8, tel. (+372) 622 93 34, info@nyc.ee, www.nyc.ee. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JEXW PrGU A great place to grab a decently prepared bite to eat or an interesting beer, Prgu, or Hell in Estonian, is worth a visit. Ironically enough its situated in a cellar but we didnt notice any roaring re the last time we visited unless of course you can call candle ames roaring. The real treat here is being able to choose from 15 draught beers and ciders as well as 80+ bottled beers. They have a good selection of Estonian micro-brews, as well as their very own red house beer - the recipe was even conceived by the owner. Every month they change one or two of their draught beers, just to shake it up a little. QC-2, Rtli 4, tel. (+372) 644 02 32, porgu@porgu. ee, www.porgu.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. Closed Sun. J RoUte 13 Bar The bar formerly known as Tonic, is still a very lively locale on Old Towns main bar street. This nightlife reincarnation hopes to attract a slightly more sophisticated crowd than those who used to come here for cheap drinks. Although now the style is that of an American eatery/bar (and indeed the cuisine certainly reects that), the atmosphere still had the air of being a bit of a meet market at least when we visited on a Friday night - the little dance area in back sees plenty of action. Theyre still putting the nishing touches on the place though, but we hear some great things and they should be completely ready come September.QD-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 680 76 17, route13bar@gmail.com. Open Mon, Tue 11:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 07:00, Sat 18:00 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. JXW ScotLand Yard An absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland Yard earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/ police-department interior, which even includes toilets tallinn.inyourpocket.com done up like electric chairs! Sadly, people have died of old age waiting to get a drink at the bar but the table service is usually better, so just grab a seat and slam a few back before heading out to one of the numerous clubs in the area.QB-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 653 51 90, scotlandyard@scotlandyard.ee, www.scotlandyard.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. Admission free. JLEW St. Patricks The name and dcor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinns four St. Patricks pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. The one here on Suur-Karja is the most famous, cleverly built into a spacious, medieval hall. All offer decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always free.QC/D-2, Suur-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 641 81 73, info@patricks.ee, www.patricks.ee. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00 Also at: D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. 631 48 01. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: E-2, Prnu mnt 20, tel. 669 18 16. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel: 664 04 43. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. J6W The DUbLiner Part of a large Estonian chain of mediocre pubs, the most Irish thing about the Dubliner is the Guinness beer on tap and the picture of Bono on the wall. The microwaved garlic cheese bread, lacklustre service and

Nightlife
soggy schnitzel left us feeling a little limp. Needless to say, we were rather unimpressed with our overall experience, but we hear that it can be a fun place for drinks and an inexpensive lunch - well let you decide for yourself.QD-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 644 46 94, pubidubliner@gmail.com, www.dubliner.ee. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 03:00. JSW TEXAS HONkY TONk & CANTINA Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night, Tallinns Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy country/rock or old blues played in the stereo. Monster portions of fries will kill even the worst munchies.QB-3, Pikk 43, tel. (+372) 631 17 55, texas@texas.ee, www.texas.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. J6IESW Tommi GriLL Metro Primarily known for its reasonable priced lunches and excellent grilled meat (see Meaty choices in the restaurants), Tommi also doubles as a pretty decent and cosy pub for grabbing some drinks and appetisers with friends before you hit the town.QC-4, Viru vljak 2 (Metro Plaza), tel. (+372) 662 20 99, tommigrill@gmail.com, www. tommigrill.ee. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00 Also at: I-2, Tatari 64, tel. 625 78 16. Open 10:00 07:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 07:00. .

HOOKaH LOUNGES
Perhaps due to the fact that many Estonians holiday in Egypt where shisha smoking is pretty much a humanright, there are loads of establishments around town that oer a pu. Here we have listed just a couple that specialise in the pastime. Loca (Sisha Caf) This extension of the eatery next door oers a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere in which to smoke hookahs. They have more avours of tobacco than you probably even knew existed and cosy rooms where one can recline on soft pillows while pung your cares away. The overall atmosphere reminds one of an old-style opium den fused with a Bedouin tent and a trendy lounge bar. Good selection of cocktails as well. QE-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 55 51 52 35, www.loca.ee. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 08:00. VesipiibU Kohvik (Water Pipe Caf) Certainly a tongue-twister for most foreigners, the vesi-piibu-koh-vik is quite a relaxing place to while away your afternoons, or evenings. Those evenings may even turn into weeks, months or years if youre not too careful. Actually, we just confused this place with an opium den, never mind. Live belly dance shows on weekends are certain to be a hit - get it?QE-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 56 46 46 06, andres@vesipiibukohvik. ee, www.vesipiibukohvik.ee. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. Age restriction 18+. LXW 66 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Viru vljak 2 Metro Plaza

Sun - Thu 10 - 24 Fri - Sat 10 - 02

Tatari 64
Mon - Fri 10 - 07 Sat - Sun 12 - 07

www.tommigrill.ee
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VODKa & cHaMpaGNE BaRS
The newest trend in Tallinn at the moment seems to be vodka and champagne bars. Naturally you should expect high quality vodka, champagnes and some exceptional snacks or zakuska to compliment either of these two alcoholic beverages. BeLUGa Bar This little cellar-bar in the stylish Three Sisters hotel has everything you want in terms of comfort, privacy and top-notch service - not to mention the exclusive wines, Beluga vodka, champagnes and appropriately matched appetisers, many of which include various high-end caviars and sh roe alongside delicious blinis. Available for private bookings or just let the front-desk know that youd like to party in style and theyll make sure to cater to your every whim.QA/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 00, www.threesistershotel.com. J Seafood & Vodka bar Located in the lobby of the Meriton Hotel chains agship spa and conference hotel, this stylish yet intimate little bar serves up a wide-variety bubbly some excellent vodka and a selection of fresh seafood to go along with your liquid refreshments. Good selection of caviar as well.QG-2, Paldiski mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. W

Nightlife
BEER BaRS
Although many bars in town now oer beers of quality, these watering holes specialise in great brews. Beer Garden Although certainly a bit of a tourist place, catering primarily to groups of Finnish day-trippers, this Bavarian-styled pub is quite nicely decorated and the food quality is rather decent for a locale of its genre and their burgers are quite excellent - just ask them to hold back a little on the sauce. Given the atmosphere though, we certainly felt that the the cuisine should have reected the decor, merely in our opinion. Live music can be enjoyed on weekends. QC-4, Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, tel. (+372) 688 00 13, info@ beergarden.com, www.beergarden.ee. Open 11:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. . JEW Beer HoUse So, how much German oompah music can you stand? Just teasing, they do play other beer-drinking favorites as well. This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn. That said, the sprawling restaurant just o Town Hall Square is also Tallinns only microbrewery, serving seven very decent in-house varieties.QC-2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, info@beerhouse.ee, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Age restriction 18+. JEXS

ARTSY/UNDERGROUND
The raw underbelly of Tallinns music and art scene will be appealing only to more adventurous travellers. Depeche Mode Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so its only fair that Tallinn has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal humans, this is just a friendly dive bar stued with fan memorabilia. But if youre a true DM fan, this is all you ever wanted, all you ever needed.QC-2, Voorimehe 4, tel. (+372) 631 43 08, bar@depechemode.ee, www.depechemode.ee. Open 12:00 - 04:00. Age restriction 18+. JEXW KodU Baar Formerly a little bar called Juuksur, nothing has really changed since the name change. Its still a stone cellar full of mismatched furniture and art nerds. The bars name means Home Bar, so naturally it kind of feels like a students second living room. Expect live bands on some nights and inexpensive bottled beer.QB-2, Vaimu 1, tel. (+372) 56 46 79 77. Open 16:00 - 04:00. J Koht Koht literally means Place in Estonian and indeed this is a place - tiny as it might be. A smattering of intellectuals, foreigners, students and other random individuals seem to ll every nook and cranny pretty much every night theyre open - which indeed happens to be their opening hours.QC-2, Lai 8. JIXW

caSiNOS
Casino Grand PriX Though its pretty much all slot machines and electronic roulette, this roomy place in an Old Town cinema is a cut above the usual.QD-2, Vana-Posti 8 (Club Hollywood building), tel. (+372) 641 95 53, www. grandprix.ee. Open 24hrs. J OLympic Casino OLmpia Tallinns biggest, brightest, most complete and cutting-edge casino is the Olympics agship branch. Apart from their excellent service, they oer the newest slot-machines, Roulette, Blackjack, Russian Poker, Ultimate Texas and Baccarat among other games. The Olybet Sports Bar is also a new feature of the Olympic and youre invited to enjoy their snazzy lounge where you can either take a break between gambling or just hang out with friends for a drink or three. Theres also a currency exchange onsite - so you dont run out of fun, just before youve gotten started. International poker tournaments are held here and they run a great show program every week.QH-3, Liivalaia 33 (Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia), tel. (+372) 1677, estonia@ oc.eu, www.olympic-casino.com. Open 24hrs. Age restriction 21+. Also at: C-4, Vana-Viru 14. Open 24hrs. JEX

Radisson BLU Hotel Olmpia, Liivalaia 33, Tallinn

68 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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GaY NiGHTLifE
Tallinns gay scene isnt a large one by any means, but that doesnt mean those looking to play with local queers will be left wanting. Heres the short and curly list of where to let it all hang out, so to speak. For a great overview of all the hottest spots and gay-friendly establishments check out the gay tourist information portal tallinn.gaymap.ee. You can also nd their map at Tallinns Ocial Tourist Information Centre and many other points around the city. G-pUnkt One of the oldest gay joints in the city and geared mainly to Estonias Russian community, G-spot offers up fun times for both sexes who happen to be looking for a good time, with the same sex. Loads of activities and amenities are guaranteed to hit the spot, as it were.QE-2, Prnu mnt. 23 (entrance from Tatari street), tel. (+372) 644 05 52, info@gpunkt.ee, www. gpunkt.ee. Open , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Age restriction 18+. JXW X-Baar If you want to know everything there is to know about the local gay culture, come to Tallinns oldest gay bar. The unocial command centre for the citys gay scene, X-Baar has acquired a new, three-oored location complete with a small terrace, billiard table and loyal customers (both men and women) keep it lively by piling onto the dance oor.QE-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 644 01 21, info@xbaar.ee, www.xbaar.ee. Open 16:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Admission free. Age restriction 18+. JXW Levist vLJas Tallinns most grotty, seedy and all-around diviest dive bar. Students, Rastafarians and rockers alike congregate in this medieval cellar bar known for cheap drinks and uninhibited fun. Levist is usually peoples last stop of the night after drinking heavily elsewhere.QB-3, Olevimgi 12, tel. (+372) 504 60 48, levikas.puhvet@gmail.com. Open 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. J6ENXW Protest What started out as a temporary locale in a building due for demolition, has turned into a hotbed of artful dodgers, where the cheap drinks ow and the music is loud and poignant. The posters advertising upcoming events are hand-drawn, the oors are often sticky and the atmosphere is ber relaxed. The party hangs on until you do and if youve ended up having one too many, youll be happy to know that theres a cheap hostel right next-door.QB4, Mere pst 6a, tel. (+372) 660 29 50, protest@protest. ee, www.protest.ee. From 14:00 until the party is over. Admission 0 - 6. Age restriction 18+. J6LW 70 Tallinn In Your Pocket tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife
TRENDY LOUNGE BaRS
Dress to impress and mingle with Tallinns trendy club types or upwardly mobile elite. BUtterfLy LoUnGe When we were last here we got the distinct feeling that this lounge was geared primarily towards the ladies. Perhaps it was the pink-clad waiters, overall buttery motif, frou-frou menu items and more cock... tails than you can shake a stick at that made us feel this way, but if you want to spend the evening hanging out with a harem of beautiful dames, this just might be the perfect place. Excellent service.QC-4, Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, tel. (+372) 56 90 37 03, getter@kokteilibaar.ee, www.kokteilibaar. ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Age restriction 18+. J6EW LoUnGe DeJa VU This super-stylish restaurant/lounge/champagne embassy is a swank place to have a few drinks or grab a nice bite. The two floors, prime location and excellent menu make it all that better. Pop by for the many special events, often involving champagne or lingerie - sometimes both, on Friday and Saturday nights. A great smoking lounge can also be found upstairs and they rent out shisha pipes, plus all the necessary paraphernalia to enjoy this Middle-Eastern pastime. Q C-3, Vana-Viru 8, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 55, info@ dejavu.ee, www.dejavu.ee. Open Mon, Tue 12:00 23:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun Age restriction Wed - Sat from 21:00 21+. JEXSW SUite LoUnGe TaLLinn Not just in Marbella anymore, the Suite Lounge has opened its classy establishment in Tallinn as well. Expect the usual and unusual movers and shakers, some fancy cocktails and the dcor to be amply supplied with a bevy of Russian Goddesses - and if their tanned skin is any indication, many of them spend ample time in Marbella. At any rate, if your lounging is to be rst rate - Suite will sweeten your night.QC-3, Phavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 00, www.schlossle-hotels.com. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 03:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. JX

WiNE BaRS
In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated, mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town. EHE Maitse GUrmee Vinoteek This little Italian wine bar/deli, is just off Old Town Square and serves equally as a great place for a deli sandwich, cheese and meat platter or a glass of wine in the evening. Check out their daily specials and be sure to grab a few Italian delicacies or a nice bottle of wine to take home with you. A nice little slice of Italy in the heart of the city.Q C-2, Mndi 3, tel. (+372) 53 40 77 37, ehemaitse@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. J GLoria VeinikeLder The shop section is charming enough, but wind your way to the back rooms to find one of the Tallinns most elegant places to enjoy a good Merlot. An expert is always on hand to help you choose from the ca. 2000 wines, cognacs and whiskeys available.QD2, Mrivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 04, vein@gloria. ee, www.gloria.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JIS Kork Owned and operated by the oldest wine-importer in Estonia, this wine-bar/shop is certainly a great spot to sample a few fermented grapes or perhaps just grab a bottle to bring back home with you. The stylish and comfortable venue also offers various special tastings and other vino-related events.QB-4, Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10 (Rotermann Quarter), tel. (+372) 680 16 33, kork@korkork.ee, www.korkork.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. J6EW LUscher & Matiesen Location, location, location. Situated on Toompea, right next to the former site of the Luscher & Matiesen wine factory that operated here during Estonias first independence, this little outdoor wine bar is really all about the atmosphere. They also operate an exhibition dedicated to the old wine factory right next to the wine-bar.Q C-2, Kohtu 12 (Kohtuotsa viewing platform), tel. (+372) 56 91 29 10, info@luschermatiesen. com, www.luschermatiesen.com. Open 09:00 23:00. JEXW MarcoVino What it lacks in size, this tiny wine-bar makes up for in spirit. Owned and operated by one of Tallinns Italian transplants, this sip-sized vinoteque serves up a good number of fine Italian wines alongside some savoury bites from the Old Country. Space is limited, but the possibilities are endless.QB-2, Lai 26, tel. (+372) 672 20 55/(+372) 55 96 11 54, info@marcovino.ee, www. marcovino.ee. Open 16:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. JW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

MUsi A popular little haunt. This one oers a romantic, oldfashioned front room and an equally cosy, but more modern and colourful back lounge. Theres also a menu of aordable light snacks, mains and delicate desserts.QC-2, Niguliste 6, tel. (+372) 644 31 00, kati@musi.ee, www. musi.ee. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. JEW Osteria deL GaLLo Nero Personality is everything, and thats exactly what youll nd at this cosy Italian food shop/caf. The owners turn it into lively - albeit tiny - wine bar at night. The selection wines however is not tiny and they keep approximately 300 labels on hand at all times. Theyll mingle with you and may even encourage you to sing along with the stereo. For a full on dining experience with an equally adequate wine list check out their full-on Trattoria on Lai 32.QC-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 646 21 07, osteria@italbaltica. com, www.osteriagallonero.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. J6SW Paar Veini Certainly not as stylish or upscale as many of its counterparts, Couple of Wines caters to the less sophisticated wine-drinker as is evident in their bohemian-like dcor and a relatively inexpensive wine-list. This is the place for the kind of people who enjoy a glass of wine, but dont want the snobbery of what usually goes along with it. Great spot to sip a few glasses and enjoy pleasant conversation among friends before hitting the clubs.QC-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 660 30 36, www.paarveini.ee. Open , Mon, Tue, Sun 18:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. J Wine Library Probably the best thing about this place right on Town Hall Square is just that - its on Town Hall Square. Re-branded as a wine bar, this former caf does indeed have an extensive wine selection, but its a little too small to be eective enough in this category. Not to say that you shouldnt stop in though, just that there are certainly better places in Old Town for the Wine Acionado. If its a decent glass of fermented grapes your after and a good view, it certainly ts the bill.QC-2, Raekoja plats 8/Kinga 6, tel. (+372) 641 12 20, info@winelibrary.ee, www.winelibrary.ee. Open 10:00 - 01:00. JW February - March 2014 71

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SHOOTER BaRS
Loads of bars in Old Town oer shots or shooters but these places seem to specialise in them. HULLUmaJa Baar Its pretty craz-e-e-e-e... Hulumaja means nuthouse in English and given the low shooters prices, a few hours spent here can certainly end up contributing to a less than sharp mental state. The interior dcor is a little lacking, we would have liked to see all manner of freaky medical instruments hanging on the walls, but a smattering of signs, padded walls and shots served in urine cups get the point across.QC-2, Suur-Karja 11, tel. (+372) 56 99 41 60, info@laborbaar.com. Open Wed, Thu 19:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 06:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. See Facebook page for up-to-date shots prices. Age restriction 18+. JW Kohvik NoorUs We promised some of our friends that we wouldnt give this place too good a review as we always seem to ruin a good thing by letting too many tourists in on it - but friends dont pay our bills. Cheap drinks, free owing shooters and gorgeous girls who might even show you their boobs for a couple of shots, abound at this locale. This place is awesome. There - we said it, and only feel mildly bad about it.QC-2, Lai 10, tel. (+372) 600 53 73, www.kohviknoorus.ee. Open 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J Labor Baar Labor which means lab in English is pretty much just that - theyve got loads of experimental shooters on the menu, served in holders containing ten test tubes. If youd prefer to sip your chemical concoctions, they also oer an explosion of other sciencethemed cocktails, certain to please any aspiring drunk, even you got an F in chemistry. Spending too much time here could be hazardous to your health though. The lower level acts as a nightclub Wednesday through Saturday and entrance is free. QC-2, Suur-Karja 10, tel. +372) 56 99 41 60, info@ laborbaar.com. Open 17:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. JEXW Shooters As the name quite obviously implies, Shooters is pretty much all about the booze. Add to that its location on one of the busier bar streets in Old Town and the ongoing special of 5 shots for 5.50 and ding-dingding, we have got ourselves a winner - or a lot of losers depending on your perspective.QC-2, Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 600 22 20, tallinn@shooters.ee, www. shooters.ee. Open Mon, Tue, Sun 17:00 - 04:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. JEW 72 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Nightlife
CLUBS
Tallinn has quite a bit to oer on the club-scene. From tacky to cutting edge, youll certainly nd something that ts your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review. Arena 3 Located a little o the beaten track but not too far from the centre, Arena 3 might easily be one of the biggest clubs in the vicinity of Old Town. The music is bumping and the crowd seemed to consist mostly of Estonians with a handful of foreigners thrown into the mix. We found the atmosphere quite reasonable, the drinks prices aordable. Theyve recently moved to a new location though and it was a little dead when we last visited.QH-3, Tartu mnt. 17, clubarena3@hotmail.com, www.clubarena3.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. X Bibabo You say Tomato I say Bibabo - sorry, we couldnt help it. This small, stand-alone club kind of serves as Vabanks VIP/afterhours club and is indeed connected to it by way of a set of stairs that can be found at Vabanks other entrance. The interior is kind of swank albeit a little odd what with the shag carpets and all. Extensive cocktail list and the drinks prices are actually not too bad given the nature of the establishment. Comfortable smoking lounge as well - with humidor for purchasing some of their ne cigars.QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 10, tel. (+372) 660 52 99, info@bibabo.ee, www.bibabo.ee. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. 23:00 24:00 free entrance, 24:00 onwards 8. JX Caf AmiGo Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo attracts a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party animals who tend to be slightly older than the typical club monkeys. The big draw here are the live rock and blues bands - the countrys best-loved names - that play here almost nightly. Before bands come one, DJs spin all your favorite pop dance hits from the 70s-90s, and always manage to ll the oor with a cross-generational crowd.QC-4, Viru vljak 4, (Original Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. (+372) 680 93 80, amigo@amigo.ee, www.amigo.ee. Open 22:00 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission 5, Fri-Sat 8. Age restriction 21+. JULEXW new ChocoLate CLUb Replacing the long popular Bon Bon nightclub - the venue hasnt changed overly much, even the name itself still refers to something sweet. Perhaps the biggest change is that the crowd can often be pretty sparse here compared to some of the other spots in town. Were not saying dont check it out - just keep your expectations a little on the low side if youre looking for an awesome party.QB-4, Mere pst. 6E, tel. (+372) 551 51 13, info@chocolateclub. ee, www.chocolateclub.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 8. tallinn.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 73 CLUb BaiLa This little dance club in the heart of Old Town certainly does its best to make their clients feel like theyre relaxing, or partying it up on a tropical island somewhere instead of the somewhat chilly streets of Tallinn. From the moment you enter the door youre greeted by a tropical aquarium, Latin rhythms and an atmosphere painted in the colours of paradise, as well as the obligatory, large tropical plants one might expect. Even the practically all-blonde female serving sta are decked out in striped sailor-tops, just adding that extra something to the vibe. The cuisine is also topical-getaway inspired and the music will make you want to shake your money-makers, or at the very least watch others shake theirs. A huge selection of signature cocktails as well.QC-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 641 04 60, info@bailabaila.ee, www.bailabaila.ee. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. JXW CLUb HoLLywood If theres one club in Tallinn thats guaranteed to be jumping, its Hollywood, the melting-pot for tourists, and Tallinns young and young-at-heart party crowd, usually ends up being a full-house. The dance oor features raised platforms where scantily-clad go-go dancers jiggle to the beat. Having undergone a recent facelift has provided an improved VIP experience and apparently, although we failed to bring our measuring tape, the Baltics largest video screen. Wednesday night is ladies night - free entrance for the fairer sex, which pretty much guarantees a good time for the lads. Check website for full programme and VIP details.QD-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 615 51 00, info@clubhollywood. ee, www.clubhollywood.ee. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 3 - 8. JLEX CLUb Mnt The former Spider club has new digs and a new name. Mnt, which means both mint and coin in Estonian, probably wont leave your breath fresh and tasty but certainly will leave more coin in your pocket as they oer up 1 drinks. Expect all the grown-up fun that a place oering such cheap drinks has to oer and a healthy dose of girls wearing the amount of clothing a girl who can only aord 1 drinks might be wearing.QD-3, Mrivahe 22, tel. (+372) 53 58 09 04, info@clubmynt.eu, www.clubmynt. eu. Open , Wed, Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00 Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission 9.90. J CLUb Priv Along with Klubi Teater and Vabank, the smaller Priv is considered one of Tallinns three trendiest club destinations. Heading here is a bit of a gamble though. If you hit it on the right night, it can be a very cool scene where youll hear the regions or worlds hottest DJs, but on the wrong night its just another club full of fog and foreigners. The last time we checked in, the place was indeed packed and we witnessed the electronic sounds of a DJ from Ibiza - good times. Ask about their VIP packages. Friday nights are House nights and Saturdays are geared to the RnB crowd.QD-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 56 25 60 00, info@clubprive.ee, www.clubprive. ee. Open , Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7 - 14. Age restriction 20+. JEX

Nightlife
MiDNiGHT MUNcHiES
If youre looking for food and drink after the pubs close, dont expect much of quality. Here are some options. DerekU BUrGer Apparently one of the best burgers in Estonia (the original location is in Saaremaa), Dereku certainly has all the right stu going on to claim this title. Canadian owner, check, homemade patties, check, a bun that doesnt fall apart, check. The burger was indeed tasty, also one of the best weve had in Estonia. There were just a couple of things missing though, in our opinion, that would make the experience perfect - oer a choice of buns, oer a choice of cheese, oer an all-beef patty, indoor seating - even just a few seats would be great, and a more central location.QG-3, Lootsi 8, tel. (+372) 512 06 69, tallinn@ derekuburger.ee. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. . NS IstanbUL Kebab Dying for some dners done right? This kebab place is actually owned by real Turks who, as it turns out also prepare the food. Here you can nd mouth-watering pitas stued with loads of meat and veggies basted in several thick sauces.QD-4, Estonia pst. 7, tel. (372) 55 59 79 15, www.istanbulkebab.ee. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. S Loca Open 24hrs Friday and Saturday, Loca isnt too far of a stumble from Old Town and they oer a little more variety and higher quality than pretty much all of the kiosks and other open-late fast-food spots in the centre. The eats are actually quite decent for a fast food place and there are some interesting things on the menu, blending South American, Italian and Middle eastern cuisines. Even a few vegetarian items available. We quite liked their fried chicken and homemade pitas with hummus. Pizzas will set you back about 5, drinks prices are reasonable and theyve recently opened a shisha-smoking lounge next door, also open late.QE2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 55 51 52 35, info@pizzakoju. ee, www.loca.ee. Open 11:00 - 07:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. JS Taco EXpress This little tacosnmore joint oers up some pretty spicy oerings alongside a few decent pizzas and is altogether centrally located enough that your newly acquired jello-legs will probably even manage to bring you here from most of the establishments oering up liquid courage in the area.QD-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 682 55 08, info@tacoexpress.ee, www. tacoexpress.ee. Open 09:00 - 07:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 10:00. . JSW 74 Tallinn In Your Pocket CLUb Riff Going back to its old name - we kind of thought Cathouse was a good one but... They still have some pretty sexy events here, which happen fairly regularly, including topless DJs, go-go dancers and as one poster recently advertised, something called Pu$$y Lazer. The crowd is primarily Russian, but the Slavs often have a leg up on Estonians in terms of the fun factor. QC-4, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 55 92 49 99, deniss.karabljoff@facebook. com. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00 Closed Mon - Wed, Sun. Admission 5 - 10. LXW CLUb StUdio Young, hip and one helluva queue to get into the place kind of gives you the idea of what Studio is all about. Probably the most popular place at the moment for the 18-25 crowd, Studio actually pumps out some pretty quality music from genres most of us old people have never heard of. Dress youthful, drink plenty of Redbull and youll t in just ne.QC-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 58 94 32 61, info@ clubstudio.ee, www.clubstudio.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 06:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 10. J KLUbi Teater Currently one of our favourites and one of the most interesting and elaborate clubs in Tallinn, Teater takes advantage of its location in an old theatre and certainly provides the club-goer with a theatrical experience. The dcor is 1930sinspired, the large cigar lounge is a nice touch as are the showgirls. Drinks can tend to be a bit pricey, but the overall ambiance, live performances and the opportunity to mingle with an upwardly mobile and more mature crowd makes it all worth it. Theres a swanky VIP lounge for cardholders (can be ordered online) and a club within a club called Taboo entrance costs extra.QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 5, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 44, info@klubiteater.ee, www.klubiteater. ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 05:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7 - 15. Age restriction 21+. JEXW new Labor CLUb Conveniently located next to a cash machine and across from McDonalds, this literal hole in the wall is kind of an extension to their shooter bar in the Suur-Karja nightlife zone. Nothing overly special about it, but its setup as more of a club than a bar and continues on with the lab theme of their other joint.QC-3, Valli 1, tel. (+372) 56 99 41 60, info@laborbaar.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 08:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission free. JW Panoraam Panoraam is a two story disco a short walk from Old Town that places a heavy emphasis on its schedule of Estonian pop acts. When a good concert is on, it can draw hundreds of teenagers and a few lost and drooling easyJet travellers. Otherwise its about as exciting as a hotel lobby in Oslo.QG3, Ahtri 10, tel. (+372) 53 40 38 86, info@clubpanoraam. ee, www.clubpanoraam.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7-8. ULEXW tallinn.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket ParLament Even though this long-time club has changed locations, it appears as though not much at all has changed here - its allright as far as clubs go, but just nothing special. Inside youll nd a mix of Russians and Estonians and depending on the night it will be more or less of the other. Last time we went they had an imported topless DJ from the Uklraine who actually had silicone sprayed onto her breasts - not really topless now is that.QH-3, Ahtri 10, tel. (+372) 508 38 78, clubparlament@clubparlament.com, www. clubparlament.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 7 - 25. ULEXW Taboo In what seems to be a bit of a trend lately, this is another VIP Club within a club that has a separate entrance fee to get in. From what we could tell there wasnt a whole lot taboo about this place (perhaps we just didnt stay long enough to nd out), but it was comfortable, had a classy interior and certainly provided a more intimate vibe than the attached Teater Club. They also dont allow photography inside, I suppose to encourage taboo-ness. Strict face and dress control so make sure to hit the plastic surgeon and the nearest Armani to make sure you make the cut. It has its own smoking lounge so you neednt mingle with the common people - unless of course youre into that.QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 5, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 44, www.klubiteater.ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 05:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 15, also gets you entrance to the main Teater club. JXW

Nightlife
Vabank The beautiful people, the beautiful people. The answer to the question What is Vabank? can be summed up fairly easily. Vabank is a large nightclub at the edge of Old Town, housed in what is a former bank where, currently, Tallinns beautiful people hang out listening to rather unimaganitive house music and sipping on pricey cocktails. If that is your idea of a good time, so be it. A couple of cool features of note though, the VIP bedrooms o to either side of the dance oor and the private room downstairs in the former vault.QD-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 660 52 99, info@vabank.ee, www.vabank.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00 Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission 8. From 23:00 - 24:00, ladies free. Age restriciton 21+. J VenUs Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian dessert motif may give the impression of a palace decorator gone mad, but the overriding mood at Venus is of serious partying and irting by a mixed foreign and Estonian crowd. The last time we popped in it was just around midnight and Venus was already bumping and grinding to full capacity - lets just say that well certainly be back.QC-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 551 99 99, venus@venusclub. ee, www.venusclub.ee. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. Admission 0 - 7. Age restriction 21+. JXW

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Nightlife
ADULT ENTERTaiNMENT
Dont expect to partake from afar. If they perform on stage at all, dancers in Tallinns striptease clubs typically visit the tables, getting up close and personal to collect tips, usually 3 - 5. While between performances on the stage, other dancers will try to coax you into buying an expensive ladies cocktail, which is essentially a huge tip for sitting with you and making dull small talk. Lately it seems that Gentlemens clubs have been popping up in every shady corner of Old Town, here we have listed just a few of them - but beware, most clubs will either try to rip you o in one way or another, especially the ones we dont have listed. Lasso Find Lasso among the touristy hotels in the port area. A man at the door may try to hustle you into going to a more, shall we say, involved establishment elsewhere in town, but once you push past him, youll nd a fairly standard striptease joint, with one long stage surrounded by sofas and the usual pricey drinks. If you opt for the private show, bring your night-vision goggles. They like to keep it dark.QB-4, Mere pst. 6a, tel. (+372) 661 61 99. Open 10:00 - 06:00. Admission 10. VirGin CLUb One of the more exclusive establishments in Tallinn catering to a mans every desire, Virgin Club will ensure that every man who enters their doors will leave very happy indeed. Beautiful and talented women, tantalising shows and a lush interior are certain to please - the hard-to-please. They offer shower shows, girl/ girl shows and shows that we cant even mention. In addition to their exotic dancers, they also have some lovely and talented, erotic masseuses on hand, whom are equally talented with their hands - as they are with their bodies. Free transfer from your hotel, send them an e-mail or call for more details.QH-3, Tartu mnt. 29, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 55, virgingrupp@gmail.com, www.clubvirgin.eu. Open 22:00 - 06.00 www.virgins. ee. D X CLUb One of the more sophisticated clubs of this type in Tallinn, X Club is favoured by business types and high-end bachelor parties. In addition to the main show room, an Oriental Room dazzles clients with belly-dancing and water-pipes. Theyve even got a great cigar-lounge, Champagne room and oer various relaxing massages. Even the medievalstyle torture booth has nice decor. Friendly sta and a relaxed atmosphere. A good place for group events like stag nights or political conventions. For an even more thrilling experience you can inquire about their Limousine shows - the most fun on wheels since you took a joyride in your dads convertible when you were 16, perhaps even more...QD-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 75, info@xclub. ee, www.xclub.ee. Open 21:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 21+. JU

Nightlife

76 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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Hotels
Tallinns hospitality industry has pretty much reached capacity and the total number of rooms sits at over 7800. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better, and the room rates are also likely to remain competitive. Outside the high-season, dont be surprised if youre able to get a room for below the prices we have listed in the guide. A uctuating price system seems to be the trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below include VAT and breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.

Hotels
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino T Child-friendly F Fitness centre H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking

CREaM Of THE cROp

Merchants HoUse This beautiful structure is essentially a 14th century merchants house turned into a luxury, boutique-style hotel, so dont be surprised if you get lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms and suites has been done up with cool, chic decor, tastefully tted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like plasma TVs, high-speed Internet and uy bathrobes. Youll also nd a relax room, brasserie restaurant, caf and an Ice Bar, where chilly drinks are served in ice-formed shot glasses. QC-2, Dunkri 4/6, tel. (+372) 697 75 00, fax (+372) 697 75 01, info@merchantshousehotel.com, www. merchantshousehotel.com. 37 rooms (singles 99 130, doubles 90 - 189, suites 155 - 600). Extra bed 26. PZJRIGKDW hhhh Radisson BLU HoteL OLmpia Originally built for the 1980 Olympics, this fully-modernized, 26-storey, downtown tower now belongs to the Radisson Blu chain. The long list of facilities here includes a gargantuan conference centre, a tness centre with a spectacular view. The rooms wont disappoint either, but for an unforgettable experience, book the top-oor sauna that faces Old Town.QH-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 631 53 33, fax (+372) 631 53 25, info. olumpia.tallinn@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu. com/olumpiahotel-tallinn. 390 rooms (singles 99 - 135, doubles 99 - 145, triples 185 - 230, suites 175 - 1160, family room 185 - 230). Extra bed 24. PHRUFLGKDCW hhhh Radisson BLU HoteL TaLLinn The rst Radisson hotel in Tallinn has been recently refurbished and naturally they continue to provide their guests with everything one might expect from this international chain and its immaculate attention to detail. From the stylish furnishings to little touches like shoe buers in the corridor they never miss a beat. Other perks here include sweeping views of the city and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a denite business bent with its 10 conference rooms and oce services, but families will appreciate the fact that kids under 12 stay free.QD-4, Rvala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 682 30 00, fax (+372) 682 30 01, info.tallinn@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-tallinn. 280 rooms (singles 99, doubles 99, suites 189). Extra bed 25. PHRUIFLGKDW hhhh 78 Tallinn In Your Pocket

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace J Old town location C Swimming pool W Wi

Savoy BoUtiQUe HoteLL Every bit as posh as the name implies, this Old Town establishment is a worthy addition to the growing boutique hotel market. Along with very tasteful rooms with old-fashioned touches (antique photos included), Savoy oers lots of little comforts like bathrobes, slippers and free local calls. And if you dont have your own laptop, theyll lend you one. Beautiful lobby caf.QD-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. (+372) 680 66 88, fax (+372) 680 66 89, savoy@tallinnhotels. ee, www.tallinnhotels.ee. 44 rooms (singles 111 - 165, doubles 121 - 203, suites 251 - 307). Extra bed 35, pets 16. JH6UIGKW hhhhh SchLssLe The elegance, history and warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlssles ve-star appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played host to musicians and heads of state, but even if you arent rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly sta will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling replace and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay just one more night.QC-3, Phavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77 00, fax (+372) 699 77 77, sch@schlossle-hotels. com, www.schlossle-hotels.com. 23 rooms (singles 165 - 240, doubles 185 - 260, suites 300 - 710). Extra bed 95, pets 32. ZJHUILGKDwW hhhhh St. PetersboUrG Aristocrats in the 19th century would stay at the St. Petersbourg when visiting Tallinn, likewise 21st-century travellers looking for luxury Old Town accommodation can nd it here at the citys oldest, continuouslyrunning hotel. Completely renovated to keep pace with newer rivals, the hotel treats its guests with modern comforts like deluxe art-deco furnishing and plush bathrobes, all the while retaining a strong sense of old world charm.QC-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 00, fax (+372) 628 65 65, stp@schlossle-hotels.com, www.hotelstpetersbourg.com. 27 rooms (doubles 125 - 175, suites 235 - 375). Extra bed 65, pets 32. ZJH6UILGKDwW hhhh tallinn.inyourpocket.com

SwissteL TaLLinn This lavish hotel has bragging rights as Tallinns tallest building and needless to say some of room-views are fabulous. Inside youll nd all the things youd come to expect from the luxury chain, including conference facilities, a high-end spa, state-of-the-art technology and a highly trained sta catering to your every whim. Swissotel is all about the little extras such as special bathrobes and bedspreads for the kids, iPod docking stations in the executive rooms and Lavazza espresso machines in every room. Even if you dont have the pleasure of staying here, be sure to investigate some relaxing opportunities at the Provel Spa or enjoy a delightful buet in Caf Swiss.QH3, Tornime 3, tel. (+372) 624 01 01, reception.tallinn@ swissotel.com, www.swissotel.com/tallinn. 238 rooms (singles 120 - 295, doubles 120 - 295, suites 320 2295, family room 218 - 323). Extra bed restricted to grand rooms only 115. PHUFLKDCwW TeLeGraaf This full-service hotel in a restored 19th-century former bank turned communications building has facilities that include a wellness spa, a Russian-style restaurant and an unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground parking! The ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than typical for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms decorated with French post cards.QC-3, Vene 9, tel. (+372) 600 06 00, fax (+372) 600 06 01, info@telegraafhotel. com, www.telegraafhotel.com. 86 rooms (singles 155 - 330, doubles 175 - 350, suites 350 - 1250). Extra bed 50. PJHRUILGKDCwW hhhhh Three Sisters HoteL This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk tnav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The top-notch establishment oers large rooms decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside old-fashioned bathtubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The sta will cater to your every whim here and almost every request a guest might have will be taken care of. The world-class Bordoo restaurant and cosy, cellar vodka bar are just icing on an already delicious cake. Beware though, if you do check-in, you may never want to leave.QA/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630 63 00, fax (+372) 630 63 01, info@threesistershotel.com, www. threesistershotel.com. 23 rooms (singles 188 - 268, doubles 214 - 294, suites 508 - 946). Extra bed 55, pets 20. PJHR6UILGKW hhhhh

UpMaRKET
BaLtic HoteL Vana WirU Its hard to imagine that a ve-storey hotel with such a grandiose marble lobby - complete with an elevated walking bridge and Italian restaurant - could be tucked into this bustling part of Old Town, but a quick peek at Vana Wiru will remove all doubt. In addition to oering guests an unbeatable location and pristine rooms, the hotel caters to business travellers with in-room WIFI connections. Find the main entrance around the corner o Mrivahe.QC3, Viru 11, tel. (+372) 669 15 00, fax (+372) 669 15 01, vanawiru@baltichotelgroup.com, www.vanawiru.ee. 82 rooms (singles 128, doubles 153 - 179, suites 237 - 288). Extra bed 32. JHRUILGKDW hhhh Bern Hotel Bern, which is tucked into a courtyard thats conveniently across from a grocery store, aims to bring its guests the best in Swiss-style hospitality with its friendly and professional sta. Due to size restrictions the 50-room establishment hasnt got many perks, but it does have a 24- hour bar, and breakfast is served in their petite, inhouse restaurant.QC-3/4, Aia 10, tel. (+372) 680 66 30, bern@tallinnhotels.ee, www.tallinnhotels.ee. 50 rooms (singles 48 - 93, doubles 58 - 104, de Luxe 172). Extra bed 35, pets 16. PJ6UGKDW hhhh HoteLL EUroopa Located in the port, they oer all the modern conveniences youd expect from a four-star hotel with a few extras such as your very own guard-lamb on every bed. The 185 room hotel caters primarily to the business set, oering 6 conference rooms, wireless internet throughout the premises and includes a sauna and tness centre which are both complimentary for guests. The 41 business rooms also come equipped with balconies that have views overlooking the bustling port area.QG-3, Paadi 5, tel. (+372) 669 97 77, fax (+372) 669 97 95, info@euroopa. ee, www.euroopa.ee. 185 rooms (singles 65, doubles 85, triples 111, suites 192). Extra bed 26, pets 20, parking fee for car 10/24hr, motorcycle 5/24hr. PZH6UFLGKDW hhhh Meriton OLd Town HoteL A nice combination of modern comfort and historic surroundings are whats oered in this tourist-class hotel at the edge of Old Town. The main building with its zigzagging corridors dates from the 19th century and houses somewhat small, but cheerfully decorated guest rooms. More interesting is the lobby, which contains part of the old city wall and the round, outer edge of the neighbouring 15th-century horse mill. Try the Russian Dining Room here for some fast and authentic Russian cuisine.QA-3, Lai 49, tel. (+372) 614 13 00, fax (+372) 614 13 11, oldtown@ meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. 41 rooms (singles 90 - 120, doubles 108 - 120). Extra bed 22. JRUILGKW February - March 2014 79

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Hotels
OriGinaL Sokos HoteL VirU Occupying an enviable spot on whats generally considered the very centre of Tallinn, the large, Finnishmanaged Original Sokos Hotel Viru oers an unbeatable combination of amenities and location. Aside from several classes of spiy rooms, a conference centre, two respectable restaurants and a popular nightclub, the hotel also has direct access to the huge Viru shopping centre, which can satisfy even the deepest of retail cravings. Rooms are furnished in a colourful, friendly style. QC-4, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 93 00, fax (+372) 680 92 36, viru.reservation@sok.fi, www.sokoshotels. com. 516 rooms (singles 90 - 175, doubles 110 - 195, suites 240 - 325, family rooms 130 - 215, double deluxe 150 - 235). Extra bed 20, pets 10. PJHR6ULGKDW Park Inn by Radisson CentraL TaLLinn This spiy downtown hotel has a wide range of rooms and the same helpful services youd expect from a hotel in its class. The spacious rooms come tastefully decorated with a modern air. Children are well catered for in family rooms and the lobby caf, which has an adjacent childrens play area. The hotel also has a beauty salon.QG-3, Narva mnt. 7c, tel. (+372) 669 06 90, fax (+372) 669 06 91, info. tallinn@rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotelcentraltallinn. 245 rooms (singles 40 - 100, doubles 40 - 100, triples 40 - 100, suites 100 - 300). Extra bed 20, pets 10. PH6UIGKDW TaLLink City HoteL The Tallink ferry line made absolutely no compromises on quality when they installed their sparkling, mirrored hotel in downtown Tallinn. The full-service facility provides all the right touches, from conference rooms and chic restaurant to candies on the pillows. Finnish guests in particular will appreciate the nightclub and free morning sauna. Rooms are done up in a bright, sharp, contemporary style, with the higher priced de Luxe doubles providing a lot more space.QG-3, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 630 08 00, fax (+372) 630 08 10, cityhotel@ tallink.ee, www.tallinkhotels.com. 332 rooms (singles 69 - 140, doubles 74 - 140, suites 114 - 205). Extra bed 25. PTHRUFLGKDW hhhh The von StackeLberG HoteL TaLLinn A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, The von Stacklberg Hotel Tallinn oers well-outtted and comfortable rooms just steps away from Toompea. Standard rooms come with desktop computer terminals, while the larger Zen rooms oer extra perks such as slippers, bathrobes and aromatherapy amenities to spoil your inner child.QG/H-2, Toompuiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660 07 00, fax (+372) 660 18 88, reserv.vsh@uhotelsgroup. com, www.uhotelsgroup.com. 45 rooms (singles 84 - 190, doubles 90 - 200, zen single 105 - 210, zen double 110 - 220). Extra bed 25, pets 20 - 25. PZHR6ILKDCwW hhhh 80 Tallinn In Your Pocket Dining Room.QB-2, Pikk 29/ Lai 24, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, fax (+372) 667 70 01, reservations@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. 50 rooms (economy 35 - 90, standard 50 - 110, Bella Garden 130). PJHKW St. Barbara More aordable than many other centrally located hotels in its class, the St. Barbara delivers the same high quality, but without certain extras like a lobby bar and sauna. The rooms here have been recently refreshed and are quite comfortable, many featuring high ceilings and enormous windows. Be sure to ask about the interesting legend surrounding the saint from which the hotel got its name.QE2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00 40, fax (+372) 640 00 41, reservations@stbarbara.ee, www.stbarbara.ee. 53 rooms (singles 54 - 77, doubles 59 - 82, triples 87 - 116, suites 87 - 179, family room 87 - 116). Extra bed 25, pets 13, parking 5/night. JH6LGKW TaLLink EXpress HoteL The smart-looking structure 300m from the passenger port is home to a sparklingly modern and orderly hotel that caters to visitors who want easy access to both the Old Town and to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are treated to free wireless internet, and should consider trying out the hotels famed soup buet.QA-4, Sadama 9, tel. (+372) 667 87 00, fax (+372) 667 88 00, expresshotel@ tallink.ee, www.tallinkhotels.com. 163 rooms (singles 40 - 140, doubles 45 - 140). Extra bed 25, pets 14. THR6ULGKW hhh

Hotels

Lavendel
S p a H ote l

MiD-RaNGE
Braavo And now for something completely dierent! Located just at the edge of Old Town, this bright and colourful lodging is designed with families and youth in mind. The rooms are spacious, cheerful and come at an aordable price. Dont expect too many extras but if youre looking for a place to rest your head in a central location this hotel will certainly do.QB-3, Aia 20, tel. (+372) 699 97 77, fax (+372) 641 23 17, braavo@braavohotel.com, www.braavohotel.com. 38 rooms (singles 35 - 65, doubles 35 - 95, family room 83 - 100). Extra bed 18. JRUFLGDCW Go HoteL ShneLLi This starkly modern, seven-storey hotel is attached to Tallinns newly revamped railway station, which happens to have a great location just outside the Old Town walls. All rooms are done in a simple, no-nonsense style with a slight railroad theme. The superior class rooms on the upper oors have beautiful views of Toompea hill. Train bus should book a room in the slightly cheaper standard class rooms overlooking the tracks. Try the restaurant and day spa. QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 01 02, fax (+372) 631 01 01, reservations@gohotels.ee, www.gohotels.ee. 124 rooms (doubles 45 - 55, family rooms 105). Extra bed 21, pets 13. PJH6ULGKwW KREUTZWAlD HOTEl TAllINN Within a brief walking distance from Old Town, the vestorey Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn is a bright and modern hotel. All rooms oer air conditioners, coee/tea-making facilities, mini-bars and free WIFI, In addition to that, the 17 spacious Zen rooms and 7 Zen suites include, at-screen televisions, computers and Jacuzzis. Check out the smart restaurant with its lunch specials. In the summer they also have a spacious outdoor courtyard patio.QH-2, Endla 23, tel. (+372) 666 48 00, fax (+372) 666 48 88, reserv.kwh@uhotelsgroup.com, www.uhotelsgroup.com. 75 rooms (singles 50 - 130, doubles 55 - 140, triples 70 - 165, zen single 65 - 145, zen double 70 - 155, zen suite 85 - 180). Extra bed 25, pets 20. PHR6UFLGKDwW hhhh Meriton OLd Town Garden HoteL Tallinns newest hotel has everything you could possibly want in an Old Town establishment - including two entrances on entirely dierent streets. The hotel blends perfectly together the charms of the old world with the conveniences we nd handy in our modern times. In typical Old Town fashion, no two rooms are exactly the same, which just adds to the charm. Youll also nd the mouth-watering cakes of Caf Mademoiselle on the premises, as well as the Estonian tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Spa HOTELS
KaLev Spa HoteL & Water Park This enormous, state-of-the-art facility brings Estonias spa phenomenon to the heart of the city. In addition to tidy guest rooms, complete spa packages are available, as are a health and wellness centre, a tness centre and a restaurant with a view of the water park. The park includes three waterslides and a 50m swimming pool, Tallinns largest, and along with the gym and a morning sauna is available free of charge for hotel guests. QB-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 00, fax (+372) 649 33 01, kalevspa@kalevspa.ee, www. kalevspa.ee. 100 rooms (singles 85, doubles 125, suites 220, family rooms 125 - 190). Extra bed 26, pets 13. TJHR6UFLGKDCW Meriton Grand Conference & Spa HoteL With some fantastic views onto Toompea, a full-service spa, several eateries and sprawling conference facilities, this hotel certainly provides an all-inclusive experience for its guests. The steel and glass structure houses some of the most state-of-the-art spa facilities in the city, including a salt chamber, low temperature sauna, heated beds and even something called a mushroom for the kids.QG-2, Paldiski mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, hotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. 465 rooms (singles 70 - 150, doubles 80 - 170, suites 280, family room 175, presidential suite 460). PTHUFLGKDCW facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Spa HoteL LavendeL This recently renovated hotel will also include a spa in the very near future. Located in the ever-growing Viimsi area, just north of the city limits - Lavendels super-modern lobby hides a nice new caf and conference room. The smartly decorated rooms are fully equipped with all the amenities one could hope for and guests are invited to pamper themselves at the full-service beauty salon or check out the attached sports-centre.QSpruse tee 9, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 603 59 00, fax (+372) 603 59 01, info@spahotellavendel. ee, www.spahotellavendel.ee. 50 rooms (singles 40 60, doubles 45 - 65, triples 82, family room 95). Extra bed 16, pets 24. ZH6UFLGKDW TaLLink Spa & Conference HoteL Gigantic, bare-breasted sirens anking the doors and a bright, groovy lobby bar are your rst clues that this place is far bolder than your average spa hotel. Apart from its signature Aqua Spa, spa packages and guest rooms - some of which overlook the decadent pool bar in the hotels central atrium.QF-3, Sadama 11a, tel. (+372) 630 10 00, fax (+372) 630 10 10, spahotel@ tallink.ee, www.tallinkhotels.com. 275 rooms (singles 79 - 140, doubles 84 - 140, suites 154 - 205). Extra bed 25. PTHRULGKDCW hhhh

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Hotels
HOSTELS
Due to the nature of hostels, they seem to come and go from year to year and new ones are popping up all the time. Likewise they also close down quite frequently and or change their names. Although not a complete list, here we have listed some of the more important and or centrally located ones. For a complete list checkout www.hostelworld.com. 16 EUro HosteL If its price and location youre after, then this recycled, former hotel turned hostel will probably suit you just ne. The furnishings are kind of mix and match, but its overall quite clean, just dont expect to get a good nights sleep here on the weekend as it also sits smack dab in the middle of several bars, a nightclub and a gentlemens club. We suggest wearing earplugs and that problem just might go away.QC-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372) 501 30 46, info@16eur. ee, www.16eur.ee. (singles 16 - 25, doubles 25 - 32, triples 38 - 50, quads 50 - 56, dorm bed 10). Extra bed 16. Breakfast 6. J6DW Academic HosteL A large hostel 5km from the city centre situated on the Tallinn University of Technology campus grounds, oering rooms for one or two persons (kitchen, dining room and bathroom shared between every two) and all surrounded by a quiet and peaceful forest. Perks include free parking and free WIFI in every room. Take trolleybus N3 from Vabaduse vljak to the Keemia stop.QAkadeemia tee 11, tel. (+372) 620 22 75, fax (+372) 620 22 76, info@ academichostel.com, www.academichostel.com. 108 rooms (Twin 29). Extra bed 14, pets 6.50, breakfast 4. R6ULGW ALUr HosteL Touted as being the biggest hostel in Old Town, the Alur has everything youd want in a hostel plus an awesome courtyard where you can bbq in the summer - or winter if thats your thing. Theyve even got brand-spanking-new showers and organise loads of activities, some perhaps even involving showers, for those who get bored fairly quickly. Great place for travellers, people who like showers, groups of friends and those who like to shower with friends.QB-2, Lai 20, tel. (+372) 646 62 10, hostel.alur@ gmail.com, hostel.alur.ee. 11 rooms (singles 29, doubles 36, triples 45, quads 48, place in dorm 9 - 12). No breakfast. J6W EUphoria This hostel-esque happening, brought to you by the good folks over at the Hostel With No Name, is one of the larger places in town. Its kind of a unique concept that centres around four apartments on dierent oors and a large common room where everyone can hang out, play the guitar, bang on bongos or if the spirit moves you, maybe even paint your own mural on the wall. Each oor has its own kitchen and toilet, one of them even has a bath! Light breakfast included.QE-2, Roosikrantsi 4, tel. (+372) 58 82 Tallinn In Your Pocket 37 36 02, euphoria@traveller.ee, euphoria.traveller.ee. Prices 9 - 38/person. RLW KniGht HoUse Located surprisingly enough on Knight Street and in the building that actually housed the former order of Teutonic Knights, this establishment is more like an apartment rental place than a typical backpackers hostel. They have a stylish common room, private rooms and all sorts of other amenities too extensive to list.QD-2, Rtli 16, tel. (+372) 631 14 44, knighthousetallinn@gmail.com, www.knight-house.eu. 7 rooms (singles 23 - 27, doubles 32 - 40, triples 42 - 48, quads 44 - 54, place in dorm 11 - 13). JW OLdHoUse HosteL Bright, uy rooms make this nicely renovated, Old Town establishment almost too nice to be called a hostel. Common areas like the hallways, TV room and guest kitchen are just as spiy. For those without a laptop, theres access to an internet connected computer free of charge. QB-3, Uus 26, tel. (+372) 641 12 81, info@oldhouse.ee, www.oldhouse.ee. Reception open 24hrs. 12 rooms (doubles 42, triples 59, quads 76, place in dorm 14). Breakfast 4. JRLNGW OLd Town Backpackers Owners insist its not for tourists, only for travellers, so put on your best hippy-backpacker attitude if you plan to stay here. The centrally-located hostel on Uus Street is basically a dorm with six beds. It boasts a huge guest kitchen, sauna, laundry facilities, Internet-connected computer and WIFI. QC-3, Uus 14, tel. (+372) 517 13 37, tallinnoldtownbp@ gmail.com, balticbackpachers.wordpress.com. 6 beds 10 - 12/person. JDW Tabinoya - TaLLinns TraveLLer HoUse The rst and only Japanese-owned hostel in the Baltics. Tabinoya means Travellers House and their aim is to make this a comfortable, home-away-from-home while spending your days and nights in this medieval city. Just a short saunter to Town Hall Square, its centrally located, clean, friendly and has all the amenities youd want from a hostel. Breakfast is also included in the price and sauna rental is a mere 4 per hour. How hot is that?QC-2, Nunne 1, tel. (+372) 632 00 62/(+372) 55 96 24 53, mail@tabinoya. com. 6 rooms (singles 20 - 35, doubles 40 - 45, triples 48 - 60, dorm room 13 - 15). JGDW TaLLinn Backpackers Hands down this hostel is Tallinns best for that feeling of international traveller camaraderie. Basically a collection of open bunk rooms, its cheap, central and friendly, and the foreign backpacker who sta it organise video screenings nightly pub crawls and some funky tours both in and out of Tallinn. Free sauna, kitchen, computer and WiFi. Laundry for a fee. Looking to stay in town a little longer? Theyve got rooms for that too.QB-3, Olevimgi 11-1, tel. (+372) 644 02 98, info@tallinnbackpackers.com, www. tallinn.inyourpocket.com Tallinns hospitality industry has pretty much reached capacity and the total number of rooms sits at over 7800. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better, and the room rates are also likely to remain competitive. Outside the high-season, dont be surprised if youre able to get a room for below the prices we have listed in the guide. A uctuating price system seems to be the trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below include VAT and breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.

Hotels

ApaRTMENT RENTaL
Short-term apartment rental is a good option for anyone staying more than a few days - you can often get a beautiful, Old Town apartment for the same price youd pay for a cramped double room in a tourist class hotel. Apartments come fully outtted with dishes, towels, etc. Prices are usually per apartment (not per person) and drop substantially the longer you stay. The prices weve listed here are for a single night and do not normally include breakfast unless stated otherwise. Check the individual apartments websites for full details on their rates. EreL Apartments & Residences This large, highly experienced rm manages serviced apartments concentrated in three Old Town buildings, including two on Town Hall Square and another in a great spot on the centrally-located Vene Street. Furnishing in these 2 - 8-person apartments is mainly Scandinavian and always tasteful. Guests can stay anywhere from one day to one year, but rates are better the longer the contract. The company will even pick you up at the airport. Prior booking by credit card is required.QH-1, Paldiski mnt. 26a, tel. (+372) 663 16 40/ (+372) 524 80 99, fax (+372) 663 16 41, erel@erel.ee, www. erel.ee. 21 apartments: standard class 72 - 167, business class 112 - 272. Extra bed 35. Pets 35. JR6GW Goodson & Red TaLLinn Apartments Goodson & Red apartments are all fully furnished, well serviced and cosy apartments. All are situated in Old Town or the city centre, making this option a good choice for location, quality and price. Interiors have a warm look, and the sta are always ready to help guests out with information and arrange other services like airport pick-ups and drop-os. Breakfast isnt included in the price, but an Old Town caf is never far. Also available for medium and long-term rentals. See their website for more information.QC-3, Je 5, tel. (+372) 666 16 50/(+44) 20 32 86 16 50, fax (+372) 666 16 51, info@ goodsonandred.com, apartments.goodsonandred.com. 20 apartments from 73 - 143. PRILGDW Ites Apartments Geared towards travellers staying from one night to several months, this collection of apartments around the Old Town and centre oers fully equipped apartments, most with satellite TV and internet access. Some even have saunas, so ask when you reserve. Car rental service also available.QD-2, Harju 6 (office), tel. (+372) 631 06 37/(+372) 56 21 71 14, info@ites.ee, www.ites.ee. 11 apartments from 80. JRD facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket Rasastra Apartments The same people who arrange bed and breakfast-style homestays also oer several centrally located apartments which can be rented anywhere from a few days to six months. All apartments are fully equipped with kitchens and TVs. Qtel./fax (+372) 661 62 91, rasastra@online.ee, www. bedbreakfast.ee. 7 apartments 51 - 165. LNG Romeo FamiLy Apartments This family run establishment oers the same level of quality and personalised service as many of the luxury hotels in town. Apart from very convenient (mostly Old Town) locations, each of these 1-4 room apartments has fully-outtted kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Some have internet connections. Most apartments are located in the same building. If youd rather just have a room, these are available as well.QD-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, apt 38, code 38, tel. (+372) 644 42 55, fax (+372) 660 95 88, info@romeofamily.ee, booking@romeofamily.ee, www.romeofamily.ee. 13 rooms (singles 35 - 45, doubles 38 - 58, triples 58 - 74, quads 75 - 110, apartments 45 - 116). Extra bed 16. Breakfast at apartments 8. JLGW SakaLa Residence A grand, white edice just outside Old Town is home to the state-of-the art apartments that make up Sakala Residence. Each of the spacious 2- 3- or 4-room apartments - some with saunas and balconies - comes with a kitchen and all the accoutrements. Ask for a 5th-oor room with a sea view. Management provides complimentary city transfer when you book a business-class apartment.QE-3, Sakala 16, tel. (+372) 663 16 40/(+372) 524 80 99, fax (+372) 663 16 41, info@sakalaresidence.ee, www.sakalaresidence.ee. 5 apartments: standard class 72 - 167, business class 112 - 272. Extra bed 35. Pets 35. R6LGW ViLLa Hortensia The guesthouse in the newly refurbished Old Town Masters Courtyard shares its locale with a gallery, artisans workshops and a popular chocolate caf. It mostly caters to visiting artists, but anyone with a reservation is welcome. The stylish doubles are like tiny, split-level apartments, each with its own mini-kitchen and loft bedroom, while the suite even has its own balcony. Theres no reception, so phone ahead for keys.QC-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 50 46 113, fax (+372) 641 80 17, jaan.parn@mail.ee, www. hoov.ee. 6 rooms (singles 40, doubles 55, suites 80 130). Extra bed for kids 15. JGW February - March 2014 83

Shopping - Authentic Estonian

Although we havent made a nal count of all the souvenir shops and boutiques in Old Town there appear to be thousands of them. This makes it pretty hard for the tourist, not to mention locals, to nd souvenirs, fashion, art and other handicrafts that are truly Estonian - either made here or conceived and designed here. Listed below you can nd a number of shops, products and boutiques that specialise in bringing authentic Estonian goods to the public. Beware, the majority of souvenir shops around town sell things not made in Estonia or that dont even remotely represent things that are unique to this country. Estonian Handicraft HoUse QC-2, Pikk 22, tel. (+372) 631 40 76, info@ crafts.ee, www.crafts.ee. Open 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00 Also at: C-2, Pikk 15, tel. 631 33 93. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 17:00. Also at: C-1, Lhike jalg 6, tel. 641 17 08. Open 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. Also at: C-4, Viru vljak 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. 610 13 32. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J Katariina GiLd Various artisan shops/workshops, including a glass studio, textile studio and hat workshop among others. You can witness the creation of the products on site.QC-3, Vene 12/Katariina kik, info@katariinagild.eu, katariinagild. eu. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. N KrambUde This great medieval shop, brought to us by the folks at Olde Hansa, features authentic wares such as hand-blown glass, hand-crafted pottery, leather items and even spirits.QC-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20, reserve@oldehansa. ee, www.oldehansa.net. Open 10:00 - 21:00. J LoomeLood Glass art and ceramics by Estonian designers.QC-3, VikeKarja 4, www.minudisain.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Oma Asi This quaint little shop houses unique Estonian creations. QC-2, Saiakang 1, tel. (+372) 633 50 25, sales@omaasi. com, www.omaasi.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J PhavaimU Post An assortment of angel gurines, watches, candles and postcards - stamps and a postbox onsite for convenience. QC-2, Phavaimu 2, www.eestiesindus.ee/kauplused/ puhavaimu-post/. Open 09:30 - 17:30. J Saaremaa sepad The most wide-spread and famous of the blacksmithforged items in Estonia come from this company. Here you can nd anything from bottle-cap openers to swords to candle-holders.QC-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 646 43 15, sepad@sepad.ee, www.sepad.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Also at: C-3, Mrivahe 36, muurivahe@sepad.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. J Sepa ri Wide range of products from Estonian blacksmiths.QB-3, Olevimgi 11, tel. (+372) 680 09 71, info@ross.ee, www.ross. ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. J Wood & BUG Shop (PUU Ja PUtUka Pood) Wooden items from buttons to bowls, also linen and woollen goods.QC-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 644 01 26. Open 10:00 - 18:00. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping - Authentic Estonian

BOGapOTT
Bogapott is as authentic as it gets. Not only is it a cosy little caf (see Cafs), its also an artists studio, where you can see the craftsmen at work and a gallery/shop where you can view and purchase their unique hand-crafted, earthen wares. Here you can nd beautiful yet practical items such as tea or coee cups, tea pots, plates and serving trays as well as sculptures and wall pieces to adorn your home - all made by hand out of either clay or ceramics. The caf also utilises the creations in serving your refreshments.QC-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J

ESTONiaN faSHiON DESiGNERS

A.G.A.N. - As Good As New Both a second-hand boutique and a showcase for young Estonian designers specialising in creations made from reclaimed materials.QRotermanni 5/Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 56 49 56 57, dairefr@hotmail.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Baltman QC-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 660 14 69, www.baltman.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Bastion QC-3, Viru 12, tel. (+372) 644 15 55, www.bastion.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00 Also at: C-4, Viru vljak 5/6 (Viru Centre), tel. 610 13 27. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Bonbon LinGerie Estonias very own brand of stylish and sexy underwear oozes femininity.QE-2, Prnu mnt 21, tel. (+372) 642 20 42, info@bonbonlingerie.com, www.bon.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. FankadeLik Fresh designs by young and hip Estonian designers.QC3, Vana-Viru 6, info@fankadelik.com, www.fankadelik. com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J KV CoUtUre Kristina ViirpaLU QC-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 641 10 77, kristinadesign@ mac.com, www.kristinadesign.ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J Linette Estonian-made lingerie.QD-3, Mrivahe 17, tel. (+372) 648 54 00, info@linette.ee, www.linette.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun Also at: C-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel 610 13 76. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J Naiiv QB-3, Pikk 33, tel. (+372) 646 40 90, info@naiiv.eu, www. naiiv.eu. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. J Namarie Original works by young Estonian fashion designers.QC3, Mrivahe 21, tel. (+372) 53 43 07 56, wenderol@ hotmail.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J NU Nordik Clothes and more from young Estonian designers.QD-2, Vabaduse vljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 93 92, nunordik@ nunordik.ee, www.nunordik.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. StUdio Reet AUs QB-3, Pikk 41, info@reetaus.com, www.reetaus.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J February - March 2014 85

COMMERciaL GaLLERiES
Domini Canes Stained-glass artwork designed and crafted on-site.QC3, Vene 12/Katariina kik, tel. (+372) 644 52 86, www. glassart.ee. Open 12:00 - 17:00. N NavitroLLa GaLerii One of Estonias most popular painters creates whimsical art that is both fun and colourful. Originals, prints and limited edition gicles are all available for purchase here.QB3, Sulevimgi 1, tel. (+372) 631 37 16, navi@navitrolla. ee, www.navitrolla.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. TaUno KanGro GaLLery Estonias top sculptor has a wide variety of works for sale, including large and miniature sculptures as well as pastel drawings. Here you can nd exquisite nudes, game animals and mythological pieces at reasonable prices. For larger items, international shipping also available.QB-3, Uus 20, tel. (+372) 641 10 02, info@skupltuuristuudio.ee, www. skulptuuristuudio.ee. Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:00, most of the time. Its adviseable to call ahead though. J

JEwELLERY
A-GaLerii Estonian-designed jewellery and fashion accessories.QC2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 646 41 01, info@agalerii.ee, www.agalerii.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J by Karin QC-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 56 15 66 53, bykarine@ bykarine.com, www.bykarine.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J JUveeL QD-3, Prnu mnt 8, tel. (+372) 644 42 16, myyk@juveel. ee, www.juveel.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 17:00. Closed Sun.

GifTS & SOUVENiRS

Estonian Goods (H Eesti Asi) Everything for sale in this large souvenir shop was either designed or produced in Estonia. From food and drink to handicrafts - it can all be found here.QC-3, Viru 23, tel. (+372) 56 98 63 84, viru.heaeestiasi@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. J Estonian Handicraft Embassy This souvenir shop features dierent sections devoted to various handicrafts such as leather goods, local delicacies, wood items etc. The craftsmen sell their own wares. QC3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 640 40 37, www.eestiesindus.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00. J HeLina TiLk Joyful hand-painted porcelain, glass and ceramics by an Estonian artist.QC-2, Rataskaevu 6, tel. (+372) 646 42 80, info@helinatilk.com, www.helinatilk.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Also at: B-3, Pikk 41, tel 641 45 15. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J 84 Tallinn In Your Pocket

KNiTS & LiNEN

JoLLeri Handicraft Chamber QD-3, Mrivahe 11, tel. (+372) 648 45 88, info@jollerybunny.ee, www.jollery-bunny.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. J Norrison Estonian quality knitwear and design.QC-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 33. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. J RewiLL All the handicrafts in this tiny shop can be made to order. QC-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 33 62, rewill@rewill.ee, www.rewill.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J Veta Loads of knits and linen.QC-2, Pikk 6, tel. (+372) 664 44 56, www.veta.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00 Also at: C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. 664 44 64. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 4, tel. 664 44 66. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Shopping
There are plenty of opportunities to spend money shopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens of souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Town the main shopping streets are Viru, Mrivahe, Suur-Karja, Vike-Karja and Kullassepa. The most central shopping centre is Viru Centre home also to the Kaubamaja department store. Kaubamaja and Stockmann oer everything from electronics to cosmetics as well as large clothing sections. Other smaller malls include the Foorum Centre, the unique Rotermanni Kaubamaja and the Solaris Centre. tel. 644 36 82. Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. SLothrops The only bookshop in Tallinn that specialises in English and other foreign-language literature.QB-3, Pikk 34, info@slothrops.ee, www.slothrops.ee. Open 12:00 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J NUkUpood Handicraft dolls & toys.QC-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 644 30 58, www.nukupood.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J PaLeocity FossiL Shop Fossils, rocks, gems and more.QC-3, Aia 4, tel. (+372) 56 82 17 69, sirius11206@mail.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. J RaevanGLa KsitkeLder QC-2, Raekoja 4/6, behind Town Hall, tel. (+372) 644 64 88. Open 10:30 - 16:30, Sun 10:30 - 16.00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. J

Shopping
Sfr Store This stylish little shop located inside a restaurant features brands such as Acne, Nudie Jeans, Edwin, Penguin, Woolrich, Barbour, Trickers, Red Wing Shoes, Parajumpers, Bluer, EMU Australia etc. and a good selection of fine wines.Q B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 25, store@sfaar.ee, www. sfaar.ee/store/. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. JK StUdio T Featuring brands such as Armani Collezioni, Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith, Moncler, Armani Jeans, Jacob Cohen, Dondup and many more.QC-4, Lai 36 (womens clothing), tel. (+372) 641 19 46, www.studiot.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun Also at: E-2, Prnu mnt. 25 (mens clothing). Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 17:00, Sun closed. J Zara QC-4, Viru Centre, Viru Vljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 13 66. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

ANTiqUES
Aarded Featuring works of art and antiques of interest to both the serious or novice collectors.QD-2, Rtli 13, tel. (+372) 56 66 66 11, aarded@aarded.ee, www.aarded.ee. Open 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J IdLa Antiik One of the more upscale antique shops in Old Town, they actually have two branches and a great selection online. Excellent variety.QB-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 646 40 60, jaanus@idla.ee, www.idla.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun . Shifara GaLLery AntiQUes Probably the most museum-like out of any of the antiques shops in Old Town, they certainly have some excellent items on display and do a lot of business through E-Bay. QD-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. (+372) 644 35 36, shifara@ online.ee, www.shifara-antique.ee. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

COMMERciaL GaLLERiES aND aRT SHOpS

GaLerii 2 Jewellery, leather-wares and ceramics that are closer to works of art than just mere handicrafts.QC-1/2, Lhike jalg 1, tel. (+372) 641 83 08, galerii.kaks@mail.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. GaLerii 36 Paintings, prints, sculpture and stained glass can be found here.QC-1/2, Lhike jalg 8, tel. (+372) 644 16 58, galerii36@hot.ee. Open 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. HobUsepea GaLerii QB/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 528 53 24/(+372) 627 67 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex. htm. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Lhikese JaLa GaLerii Beautifully displayed ceramics, glass and textiles.QC-1/2, Lhike jalg 6, tel. (+372) 631 47 20, lpgalerii@hot.ee, www. hot.ee/lgalerii. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

FaSHiON STORES
Esprit QC-2, Raekoja plats 4, tel. (+372) 644 63 56. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-4, Viru Centre, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 58. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J GUess QC-4, Rotermanni 5 (Rotermanni quarter), tel. (+372) 666 77 62, guess@denimdream.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. H&M QG-3, Narva mnt. 1, www.hm.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Jack & Jones QC-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre, tel. (+372) 631 47 66, www.jackjones.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU LindeX QC-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre, tel. (+372) 615 55 40, www.lindex.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU Mario MeLani ItaLian Fashion DesiGn QC-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 645 00 98, melanidesign@yahoo.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J

SHOES
ABC KinG QC-3, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 85, viru@abcking.ee, www.abcking.ee. Open 09:00 21:00. SaLamander QC-3, Viru 5, tel. (+372) 644 43 62. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Vivian VaU Shoe SaLon The exquisite shoes at Vivian Vau are imported mainly from Italy and Spain and are crafted from the nest materials and leathers. Sizes from 34 - 45.QC-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel. (+372) 641 64 40, info@vivianvau.ee, www. vivianvau.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

BOOKSHOpS
You wont nd a great selection of books in English or other foreign languages in Tallinn, but you wont be left without any reading material either. Rahva Raamat has the widest selection of English language novels. Allecto has a good variety of speciality books and textbooks. ApoLLo RaamatUpood The most central source for English-language novels and travel guides.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 633 60 00, info@apollo.ee, www.apollo.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. RaamatUkoi Specialising in antique books.QC-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 683 77 10, raamatukoi@raamatukoi.ee, www. raamatukoi.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Rahva Raamat Probably the best stocked in Estonia for English books, with titles throughout the store.QC-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 644 66 55, www.rahvaraamat. ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: D-3, Prnu mnt. 10, 86 Tallinn In Your Pocket

GifTS & SOUVENiRS

The dicult challenge of selecting souvenirs that possess some practical use is actually possible to achieve in Tallinn. However, just as in any town heavily reliant on tourism, you could also go poor buying useless crap or items that really have nothing to do with Estonia, such as the ever prevalent Russian nesting doll. Just like the nesting doll, Old Town is lled with souvenir shops, some even inside other souvenir shops. Here we have listed just a few that specialise in various gift items. See the Authentic Estonian section for souvenirs that truly represent this country. MarGarita & Art (BaLtic Amber) This chain of amber shops arguably have the widest assortment of prehistoric golden resin items and jewellery in Tallinn. QC-2, Vanaturu kael 10, tel. (+372) 641 89 03, www.amber. ee. Open 11:00 - 20:00 Also at: C-3, Viru 21, tel. 600 41 53. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Dunkri 3, tel. 641 87 35. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 2, tel. 646 45 58. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel 642 05 14. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel 646 65 91. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

ViNTaGE
Annimari VintaGe CLothinG QPikk 9, annimari.vintage@gmail.com. Open 12:00 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. J FoXy VintaGe QC-2, Pikk 9, tel. (+372) 53 48 30 81. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. J Oh So Retro QD-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 53 58 43 37, ohsoretrovintage@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket February - March 2014 87

Rotermann Quarter
Find the shopping and entertainment district in the area G-3 on the city centre map; also partially visible in the area B/C-3 on the Old Town map.

Shopping

VIRU SQUARE 30m 7 8 1 3 4

Me

re

OLD TOWN

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Shopping
StradivariUs Stradivarius oers an extensive range of fashion collections and accessories for a young, modern woman. QC-4, Rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) 664 50 13, str.rotermanni.tallinn@apranga.com, www.stradivarius.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
8 7

GERRY WEbER A dynamic lifestyle brand for women by a famous German fashion house.Q C-3, Valli 4, tel. (372) 648 0666, neoprim@gerryweber.ee, www. gerryweber.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 17:00. J HUGo Boss QD-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 06 10, hugoboss@ apranga.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Ivo NikkoLo Premium Estonian design business-wear for women.QC2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372) 641 90 57/(+372) 641 90 58, info@ivonikkolo.com, www.ivonikkolo.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Jacadi Childrens clothing.QC-3, Vike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 601 02 31, www.jacadi.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J LaUren VidaL QD-3, Vike-Karja 7, tel. (+372) 736 16 65. J LUisa SpaGnoLi QD-3, Vike-Karja 7, tel. (+372) 647 70 03, info@ luisaspagnoli-estonia.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Marc Cain QD-3, Vike-Karja 10, tel. (+372) 641 84 18, info@ marccain.ee, www.marccain.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Marina RinaLdi QC-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 56 66 38 46, marinarinaldi@ hot.ee, www.marinarinaldi.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J MAX&Co. QD-3, Prnu mnt. 12, tel. (+372) 640 40 06. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J MaXMara QD-3, Prnu mnt. 8, tel. (+372) 631 05 14, maxmara@ maxmara.ee, www.maxmara.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J nUde QD-3, Prnu mnt.10/ Suur-Karja 23, tel. (+372) 622 92 02, nude.tallinn@apranga.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Persona QD-2, Harju 5, tel. (+372) 57 81 04 09, personatallinn@ gmail.com, www.personamr.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J February - March 2014 89

Ho buj aam
2

Ahtri street

PASSANGER PORT 300m

PULL and Bear This brand is targeted at style-conscious youngsters, oering great quality for a reasonable price. QC-4, Rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) 664 50 16, pb.rotermanni. tallinn@apranga.com, www.pullandbear.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

88 Tallinn In Your Pocket

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BasiiLik PiZZa & Pasta Delicious pizzas and pastas in the heart of Tallinn. All-you-can-eat pizza and soup buet, Mon - Fri from 11:30 - 15:00 - for a mere 5.50 you can enjoy 3 dierent pizzas and 3 dierent soups. See full review in the restaurant section on p.48. Q G-3, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola Plaza, tel. (+372) 56 50 99 91, info@basiilik.ee, www.basiilik.ee. Open 11:30 - 23:00. ALter EGo This stylish, Mediterranean-style eatery ranks as one of the best Spanish restaurants outside of Spain and was selected in 2013 as one of the top 15 restaurants in the Baltics. Great service and a fantastic, as well as affordable wine-selection make it a great spot for lunch or dinner. See full review in the restaurant section on p.52. QB-4, Roseni 8, tel. (+372) 54 56 03 39, info@alterego. ee, www.alterego.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. 6ULSW
5 Reede Reede oers apparel, footwear and accessories from brands like Norse Projects, Wood Wood, Henrik Vibskov, Carhartt, Cheap Monday, Nike, Dr. Martens, Adidas, New Balance, Nixon, Makia, Supra, Insight and Qwstion.QB-4, Rotermanni 5, tel. (+372) 660 95 70, hei@reede.ee, www. reede.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 3

Rein KaseLa Wine Room This charming wine room oers an exclusive selection of wines from Europe, but their focus is certainly on French wines. Youll also be able to nd some excellent Cognacs, Calvados, Grappa, Marsala and dessert wines. Tastings, wine/food pairing courses and private events available on request. Q B-4, Rotermanni 12, tel. (+372) 501 45 47, info@manipenny.ee, www.manipenny. ee. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

KaRJa QUaRTER
The area between Prnu mnt. and Harju street, centred around Suur-Karja and Vike-Karja streets (area C/D-2/3 on the map) is fast becoming the luxury shopping destination in Tallinn. Although not, yet, ocially called the Karja Quarter, its a name weve come up with to classify this district. Below youll nd a list of many of the high-end brands and boutiques to be found in this area. See the centre-spread (p. 50-51) for a map of the area, along with a list of our advertisers. BeaUMonde QC-3, Vike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 620 92 62, beaumonde@ npm.ee, www.beaumonde.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J BUrberry QD-3, Prnu mnt.12/Suur-Karja 20, tel. (+372) 631 33 24. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Dboiss High-end, ready-to-wear and custom mens footwear. QD-3, Suur-Karja 20, tel. (+372) 605 64 60, info@dboiss. com, www.dboiss.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Emporio Armani QD-3, Prnu mnt. 10/ Vike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 628 22 72. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J FreywiLLe This famous Viennese jewellery brand oers up unique and exclusive creations for the discerning buyer.QD-3, Prnu mnt. 12, tel. (+372) 602 50 50, tallinn@freywille.com, www.freywille. com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. J Gant QD-3, Prnu mnt 10, tel. (+372) 628 22 11, www.gant.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

4 PLatZ Making it onto the coveted list of 50 Best Restaurants of Estonia for 2013, certainly makes Platz worth checking out. The food here is fresh and creatively prepared. See full review in the restaurant section on p.57. QB-4, Roseni 7, tel. (+372) 664 50 86, info@platz. ee, www.platz.ee. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. 6LES

6 Bershka Bershka offers the latest fashionware, accessories and footwear for adventurous young people. Q C-4, Rotermanni 12, tel. (+372) 664 50 05, bsk.rotermanni.tallinn@apranga. com, www.bershka.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping
DELicaTESSENS
Bonaparte DeLi QB-3, Pikk 47, tel. +373 646 40 24, www.bonaparte.ee/ deli. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J Chado Specialist teashop.QC-3, Uus 11, tel. (+372) 648 43 18, www.chado.ee. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Osteria deL GaLLo Nero This place is so Italian you may forget youre in Tallinn. Expect all the best Italian wares, wines and conversation. QC-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. (+372) 646 21 07, osteria@ italbaltica.com, www.osteriagallonero.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 24:00. J EHE Maitse GUrmee Vinoteek A wide selection of Italian gourmet items including meats, cheeses, olives, wines etc. are available from this very centrally located deli. For enjoyment on the spot or to take home with you.QC-2, Mndi 3, tel. (+372) 53 40 77 37. Open 10:00 - 21:00. J GoUrmet CLUb Deli and caf.QC-3, Viru 17, kauplus@vertigogourmet. ee, www.vertigogourmet.ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. JS

Shopping
aLcOHOL
Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited from 22:00 until 10:00. Go ALko QC-3, Aia 5b, tel. (+372) 55 62 56 05. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Liviko ALcostore Estonias largest and longest running alcohol producer runs a few of its own stores stocked, naturally, full of their own products and imported wares at competitive prices.QC-3, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 683 77 45, kplmere@liviko.ee, www.alcostore.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00 Also at: G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40. Also at: G-3, Lootsi 8, tel. 660 5986. Also at: G-3, Lootsi 3a, tel. 660 5771. R-ALko Large assortment of wine, liquor and beer with a convenient location.QC-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. (+372) 641 98 70, www.alko.ee. Open 10:00 - 22:00 Also at: C-3, Vana-Viru 14. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Also at: C-4, Viru 27. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

SHOppiNG cENTRES
Kristiine Centre A large, modern mall just outside the city centre.QH-1, Endla 45, tel. (+372) 665 03 41, www.kristiinekeskus.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Prisma grocery store open 08:00 23:00. ULKW SoLaris Although more of an all-in-one entertainment complex than purely a shopping centre, Solaris does have a reasonable amount of shops, often higher end, where you can leave your money in lieu of goods.QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 51 00, info@solaris.ee, www.solaris.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00 Shops open 10:00 - 21:00. Restaurants open 10:00 - 23:00. JUFLK Stockmann The local branch of Finlands premiere department store is a somewhat high-end aair. Just about everything you can imagine is sold in the ve-storey complex.QH-3, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, www.stockmann.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULKW TaLLinna KaUbamaJa Tallinns giant, home-grown department store dates back to 1960, but has done a great job of keeping pace with the times. A glass gallery connects it to the Viru Keskus, where it has additional departments.QD-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667 31 00, tallinn@kaubamaja.ee, www.kaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00 21:00 Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. JUKW VirU KeskUs This 30,000m2 shopping and dining complex a large, but very classy addition to downtowns commercial scene.QC-4, Viru vljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 14 44, fax (+372) 610 14 01, info@ virukeskus.com, www.virukeskus.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00 Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. TJUFLKW Lemiste Centre This gigantic, two-level shopping mall next to Tallinns airport has hands-down the most retail space of any mall in town. For serious shoppers, its worth the short trip from the centre.QI-5, Suur-Sjame 4, next to Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 603 49 99, www.ulemiste.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. WW Passaa A three-storey cluster of mainly slightly odd fashion boutiques in Old Town.QC-3/4, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 00, www. wwpassaaz.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JK facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

WiNE aND BEER

ALter EGo QB-4, Roseni 8 (Rotermanni Quarter), tel. (+372) 54 56 03 39, info@alterego.ee, www.alterego.ee/e/ alter-ego-wine-cellar.htm. Open 12:00 - 23:00. J Bestwine QC-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 622 89 76, info@bestwine. ee, www.bestwine.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. J Drink Beer Shop The largest selection of international beers in Estonia can be found here.QD-3, Mrivahe 15, tel. (+372) 641 24 27, www.drinkbaar.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. J Finewine QE-2, Prnu mnt. 30, tel. (+372) 622 87 00, www. finewine.ee. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. In Vino Veritas Wine shop.QC-2, Lai 6, tel. (+372) 641 84 40, info@ invinoveritas.ee, www.invinoveritas.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. LUscher & Matiesen Wine Store QC-2, Toom-Rtli 10, tel. (+372) 56 91 29 10, info@ luschermatiesen.com, www.matiesen.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

MaRKETS
BaLti Jaama TUrG A throwback to the Soviet-era, the market area behind the train station is where locals go to get spare parts, used clothes and sides of beef. This is one of our favourites for local colour but enter at your own risk.Q B-1, Kopli 1, tel. (+372) 644 61 28. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Central Market (KesktUrg) A popular destination for fresh food items. Also has clothing and other assorted treasures. Take tram N2 or N4 from the centre towards lemiste, make sure to get o at the Keskturg stop.QH-3/4, Keldrime 9, tel. (+372) 660 63 04. Open 07:00 17:00. Mere Art Market Lots of knits on sale in the yard adjacent the tram stop.QC-4, Mere pst. 1. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sadama TUrG Various Estonian handicrafts and food items can be found at this new market in the port area.QG-3, Sadama 25, info@sadamaturg.ee, www.sadamaturg. ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00. February - March 2014 91

GROcERS
KoLmJaLG (the EverythinG Store) QC-2, Pikk 11, tel. (+372) 631 15 11. Open 24hrs. J Rimi QC-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 644 38 55, www.rimi.ee. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Also at: C-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. (+372) 618 05 00. Open 08:00 - 23:00. J SeLver QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 619 24 40, infolett. baltijaam@selver.eu, www.selver.ee. Open 07:00 - 23:00. SoLaris Food Shop QD/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372) 663 13 30, info@solaris.ee, www.solaris.ee. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Stockmann QH-3, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39, fax (+372) 633 95 56, www.stockmann.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULK TaLLinna KaUbamaJa QD-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667 31 00, tallinn@ kaubamaja.ee, www.kaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00 22:00. 90 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Directory
Looking for a place to rent a private sauna, need a dentist, contact info for your local embassy or a place to get a local SIM card for your mobile? All these details and more can be found in our handy directory.

Directory
DaYcaRE
KULLapai Daycare QJ-2, Alevi 6, tel. (+372) 661 06 37/(+372) 58 34 11 12, kullapai@kullapai.ee, www.kullapai.ee. Daycare open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 18:00. 6.00/hour. Vike Pike Daycare QG-4, Tuukri 11, tel. (+372) 653 63 66/(+372) 56 69 06 80, kesklinn@lasteklubi.ee, www.lasteklubi.ee/ kesklinn.php. Daycare open Mon - Fri 07:30 - 18:30. 3.20 - 6.40/hour.

MaSSaGE & JOiNT caRE

There are many excellent massage therapists located in the centre of the Tallinn and a world-renowned Chiropractor who also oers osteopathic services. AUrea MassaGe StUdio QG-3, Narva mnt. 7d, tel. (+372) 669 67 73/(+372) 56 93 76 77, info@aurea.ee, www.aurea.ee. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hedone A dierent kind of escape from the brutal Baltic weather is this sophisticated, oriental massage club. Slip on a comfy robe, sink into a deep sofa, take a pu on the water pipe and get wet in the Jacuzzi that dominates the main room. Before you ask, here massage means just that, though the hands-on sta wear alluring belly-dancers outts. There are several varieties of massages available. Reservation is recommended.QC-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 631 34 04, info@hedone.ee, www.hedone.ee. Open 11:00 06:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. JX Indian AyUrveda MassaGe QH-2, Toompuiestee 18, tel. (+372) 604 21 72, info@ hrishy.com, www.ayurveda.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00. KaarLi Massaai KeskUs QH-2, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 91 14/(+372) 515 29 99, info@kaarlimassaaz.ee, www.kaarlimassaaz.ee. N TaLLinn TriGenics Pain Treatment Centre Specialising in physiotherapy, chiropractic, osteopathy, acupuncture, natural medicine and spinal decompression therapy, Clinic Director Dr. Allan Oolo has more than 30 years of clinical experience. QKadriorg, tel. (+372) 621 4797/(+372) 56 20 26 31, www.kliinik.com. Call ahead to make inquiries or to book an appointment. Thai Rose Spa Thai massage performed by specialists from Thailand.QC4, Vana-Viru 13, tel. (+372) 625 89 10/(+372) 56 63 40 00, info@thairose.ee, www.thairose.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. J

BaNKS
Nordea QG-3, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 628 33 00/1772, fax (+372) 628 32 01, eesti@nordea.com, www.nordea.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. SEB QH-3, Tornime 2, tel. (+372) 665 51 00, fax (+372) 665 51 03, info@seb.ee, www.seb.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun Also at: E-2, Roosikrantsi 2. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat-Sun. Swedbank QH-2, Liivalaia 8, tel. (+372) 631 03 10, fax (+372) 631 04 10, info@swedbank.ee, www.swedbank.ee. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun Also at: H-3, Rvala pst 5. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

DENTiSTS
BaLtic MedicaL Partners Private clinic.QH-3, Tartu mnt. 32, tel. (+372) 601 05 50, registratuur@bmp.ee, www.bmp.ee. BioLase Private clinic oering laser whitening.QH-3, Tartu mnt. 28, tel. (+372) 641 86 25/(+372) 56 49 36 96, info@ biolase.ee, www.biolase.ee. LUmen DentaL CLinic QRandvere tee 11, Haabneeme, Viimsi parish (Viimsi Tervis Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 601 18 12/(+372) 53 41 60 72, info@lumen.ee, www.lumen.ee. Open 09:00 19:00, Tue, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, every second Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. TaLLinna HambapoLikLiinik Large, state clinic. Call here in an emergency.QE-1, Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 612 12 00, info@hambapol.ee, www.hambapol.ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. VirU HambakLiinik Q G-3, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 660 23 02, info@ viruhambakliinik.ee, www.viruhambakliinik.ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. J

FLOwERS
BUrman Garden Flowers and bouquets for all occasions.QH-3, Maakri 36, tel. (+372) 661 06 34, lilled@burmaniaed.ee, www. burmaniaed.ee. Open 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. FLower waLL The most central and popular place to buy owers in Old Town.QC-3, Beginning of Viru street. Open 24hrs. HobUsepea FLowershop QC-2, Hobusepea 10, tel. (+372) 648 18 41. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

BEaUTY caRE
De La Gardie ILUsaLonG Hairstyling and facial treatments.QC-3, Uus 7, tel. (+372) 631 47 49, info@dlg.ee, www.dlg.ee. Open 10:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Roosikrantsi ILUsaLonG This beauty salon has loads of refreshing and revitalising treatments for the weary traveller.QH-3, Gonsiori 2 (Kaubamaja ground floor), tel. (+372) 669 13 00, roosike@ roosike.ee, www.roosike.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. VirU ILUsaLonG QC-4, Viru vljak 4, Sokos Hotel Viru 3rd floor, tel. (+372) 682 09 90, info@viruilusalong.ee, www.viruilusalong. ee. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16.00.

KEY cUTS
FiX-Serv QC-3, Aia 3, (WW Passaa), tel. (+372) 627 12 34. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Locknet QH-3, Maakri 28a, tel. (+372) 641 04 91, info@locknet. ee, www.locknet.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Sun.

CLiNicS & HOSpiTaLS

FertiLitas Private HospitaL QKaluri tee 5a, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 605 96 00/(+372) 605 96 01, fertilitas@fertilitas.ee, www.fertilitas.ee. Also at: E-4, Kaupmehe 4, 660 40 72, 646 35 39. Open Mon-Fri 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TaLLinn CentraL HospitaL QH-3, Ravi 18, tel. (+372) 622 70 70, info@itk.ee, www.itk.ee. TaLLinn ChiLdrens HospitaL QH-3, Tervise 28, tel. (+372) 697 71 13/(+372) emergency 697 71 94, info@lastehaigla.ee, www.lastehaigla.ee. TaLLinn MaGdaLeena HospitaL & PoLicLinics QI-2, Prnu mnt. 104, tel. (+372) 622 7070, www.itk.ee. 92 Tallinn In Your Pocket

DRY cLEaNERS & LaUNDRETTES

EcocLean QH-3, Liivalaia 53 (Stockmann 5th floor), tel. (+372) 668 04 82, info@ecoclean.ee, www.ecoclean.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Kati KodUabi O QC-3, Uus 7, tel. (+372) 631 45 66. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. SoL Eesti Drycleaning and laundrette.QH-3, Maakri 23, tel. (+372) 661 20 75, www.sol.ee. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Sun Laundrette open: 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

LiBRaRiES
CentraL Library (Department of ForeiGn LiteratUre) QH-3, Liivalaia 40, tel. (+372) 683 09 60, vko@tln.lib. ee, www.keskraamatukogu.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. NationaL Library of Estonia QE-1, Tnismgi 2, tel. (+372) 630 76 11, nlib@nlib.ee, www.nlib.ee. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

MONEY TRaNSfER
MoneyGram (MoneX EXchanGe) QC-3, Viru vljak 4, tel. (+372) 610 15 88, info@monexmoney.com, www.monex-money.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Western Union (TaLLinn Post Office) QC-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. (+372) 625 73 04, info@post. ee, www.post.ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun Also at: C-3, Viru 20, tel. 627 64 45. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. February - March 2014 93

Directory
Spa & WELLNESS
Babor SPA Considered to be one of the top Day Spas in the city, Babor will pamper both the inner and outer you.QG-3, Narva mnt. 5, tel. (+372) 664 04 88, info@baborspa.ee, www. baborspa.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J KaLev Spa WeLLness Centre Oering top-notch treatment from professional sta of spa therapists.QB-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33 50, wellness@ kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 17.00. JUFDCW

Mr.&Mrs.

OpTiciaNS
InstrUmentariUm QC-4, Viru Vljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 61, viru@instru.ee, www.instru.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Norman Optika QH-3, Rvala pst. 6, tel. (+372) 633 53 02, ravala@ normanoptika.ee, www.normanoptika.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Pere Optika QC-3, Aia 3/ Vana Viru 10 (WW Passaa), tel. (+372) 661 60 07, www.optiline.ee. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun.

Meriton WeLLness Spa QG-2, Paldsiki mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 628 82 21, wellness@ meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Open 08:30 - 21:00. FDC ShneLLi Day Spa Hair & beauty salon and a spa.QB-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 01 60, info@spalife.ee, www.spalife. ee. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JU

VIP

TRaNSLaTORS
A&A LinGUa QE-2, Prnu mnt. 17, tel. (+372) 683 03 21, fax (+372) 683 03 22, lingua@lingua.ee, www.lingua.ee. InterLeX TransLation BUreaU QI-2, Tatari 64, tel. (+372) 630 96 60, fax (+372) 630 96 61, interlex@interlex.ee, www.interlex.ee. LUisa TLkebroo QH-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. (+372) 626 42 82/(+372) 626 42 88, fax (+372) 626 42 80, tallinn@luisa.ee, www. luisa.ee. PanGLoss QH-4, Tartu mnt. 61 - 10, tel. (+372) 603 17 70, fax (+372) 601 49 99, pangloss@pangloss.ee, www.pangloss.ee. TehniLise TLke KeskUs (TechnicaL TransLation Centre) QE-2, Prnu mnt. 23, tel. (+372) 661 37 38, fax (+372) 661 37 39, info@TranslationCo.eu, english. translationco.eu.

PHaRMaciES
BENU+ Apteek QC-3/4, Aia 7 (Rimi supermarket), tel. (+372) 648 41 99, www.benu.ee. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J Tnisme Apteek QE-1, Tnismgi 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 82, www.sdameapteek.ee. Open 24hrs. LikooLi apteek QD-4, Kaubamaja 3 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 669 13 80, kaubamaja@ya.ee, www.ya.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

PHOTO SERVicES
FotoLUks QC-4, Viru vljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 13 17, viru@fotoluks.ee, www.fotoluks.ee. Open 09:00 - 21:00 Also at: D-3, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris centre), 663 13 19, solaris@fotoluks.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Fotomeister PLUss QD-4, Rvala 8, tel. (+372) 660 45 38, info@ fotomeisterpluss.ee, www.fotomeisterpluss.ee. Open 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 94 Tallinn In Your Pocket

SHOE REpaiR
FiX-Serv QC-3, Aia 3 (WW Passa), tel. (+372) 627 12 34. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

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LEMISTE

Legend
Main road Orto Foot Public Valuk oja buildings Important buildings Built-up area Bus terminal Parking Vike Cinema -Sjame Market Sea passenger's harbour Hotel Foreign missions Overlook Church Museum Art Gallery Theatre Monument Trolleybus Tram Bus

I
7,1 5

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OLD TOWN

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Tuukri
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Nafta ri Tuuk Metodisti 61

Uus- church 29,34a Sadama 1a,5,8,19, A.Alle

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China

Ukraine Kadriorg Palace Czech Republik and art museum Peeter I house museum Uuslinn gi

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3
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80
25

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M a g as i ni

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5,14,18 20,20a,28,32,36

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101

46

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Street register
Aarde G-1 Adamsoni H-2 Ahtri G-3 Aia C/D-4 Aida B-2 Alevi J-2 Alle G-5 Allika H-3 Ao H-2 Apteegi C-3 Aru F/G-1 Asula I/J-2 Asunduse H-5 Auli J-1/2 Auna G-1 Auru J-3 Bensiini G-5 Bremeni kik C-3 Dunkri D-2 Eha H-2 Endla H-1/2 Erika F-1 Estonia pst E-3/4 Faehlmanni H-4 Falgi D-1 Filmi G-5 Filtri I-4 Gildi H-4 Gonsiori H-3/5 Gmnaasiumi C-2 Haigru I-1 Hane J-1 Haraka J-2 Hariduse H-3 Hrjapea G-1 Harju D/E-2 Hauka I-2 Heina F-1/G-2 Hermanni H-4 Herne I-3 Hbeda H-4 Hobusepea C-2 Imanta H-4 Inseneri C-4 Invaliidi H/I-3 Jahu F-3 Jakobi H-4 Jakobsoni H-4 Jrvevana I-4/J-3 Joa G-6 Je G-4 Juhkentali H-3/I-4 Kaarli pst E-1/2 Kbliku I-1 Kadri G-6 Kadriorg G-5 Kaera F-1 Kai G-3 Kajaka J-1 Kalasadama F-3 Kalevi F-2 Kalju F-2 Kannikese H-1 Knnu I/J-1 Ko J-1/2 Karjavrava D-3 Karu G-4 Kasvu H-1 Katariina kik C-3 Kauba I-2/J-3 Kauka H-3 Kauna I-3 Kaupmehe H-3 Kauri I-1 Keemia H-1 Keldrime H-4 Kentmanni H-3 K-Kalamaja B-1 Kesk-Ameerika I-2 Kesk-Sjame J-6 Kevade H-2 Kibuvitsa H-1 Killustiku H-5 Kinga C-2 Kiriku C/D-1 Kiriku pik C-1 Kiriku plats D-1 Kivimurru I-5 Kodu I-3 Kohtu D-2 Koidu H/I-2 Koidula G-4/H-5 Kie F-2 Kolde G-1 Kleri G-4/5 Kollane H-4 Komandandi E-1 Komeedi H-2 Kooli B-2 Kopli B-1 Koskla H/I-1 Kotka I/J-2 Kotkapoja I-2 Kotzebue A-1/2 Kreutzwaldi H-4 Kristiina I-2 Kuhlbarsi H-4 Kullassepa D-2 Kullerkupu H-1 Kulli J-1 Kunderi H-4 Kungla F-2 Kuninga D-2 Kure J-1 Kuristiku G-6 Laagna G/H-6 Laboratooriumi B-2 Lagle I-2 Lahe G-5 Lai B-3/C-2 Lasname G/H-6 Lastekodu H/I-4 Laulupeo H-4 Lauteri H-3 Lehe I/J-1 Lembitu H-3 Lennujaama I-5 Lennuki H-3 Liblika I-1 Liivalaia H-3/4 Liivame H-4 Lille H-1 Linda G-2 Lindamgi H-2 Linnu tee J-1 Lootsi G-4 Lkke H-2 Lokese J-2 Lubja H-4 Luha I-2 Luige I-1 Luise H-2 Luste F-1 Lhike jalg D-2 Madara H-1/2 Mekalda G/H-5 Magasini H/I-3 Magdaleena J-2 Maisi G-1 Majaka H/I-5 Malmi G-2 Maneezhi G-3 Mardi H-4 Mehaanika H/I-1 Mere A/D-4 Metalli H-1 Mineraali H-1 Mooni H/I-1 Mulla G/H-1 Mndi C-2 Munga C-3 Muti J-1 Mrivahe C-3/D-2 Nafta G-4 Narva G-3/6 Nepi I-2 Nevski D-2 Niguliste D-2 Niine A-1/2 Nisu F/G-1 Nmme I-2 Nunne C-1/2 Odra H-4 Olevimgi B/C-3 Oleviste B-3 Orase G-1 Oru G-6 Otsa E-3 Paavli F-1 Pae H-6 Paekaare H-6 Paekivi I-5 Pagari B-3 Paide J-2/3 Paldiski H-2 Prna H-4 Prnu I-3/J-2 Peterburi I-5/6 Petrooleumi G-4/5 Piiskopi D-1 Pikk B-3/C-2 Pikk jalg D-2 Pirita F-6/G-5 Planeedi I-2 Phja A-4/B-2 Poska G-5 Preesi G-1 Pronksi G/H-4 Punane H-6 Phavaimu C-3 Raekoja D-2 Raekoja plats D-2 Rahukohtu C-1 Ranname B-1/4 Rapla J-2 Rataskaevu C-2 Raua G/H-4 Rvala H-3 Ravi H-3 Reinvaldi H-4 Roheline aas H-5 Rohu G-2 Roopa H-2 Roosikrantsi H-3 Roseni B-4 Rotermanni C-4 Rukki F-1 Rutu C-1 Rtli D/E-2 Sadama G-3 Saiakang C-2 Sakala E-3 Saku J-2 Salme F-2 Saturni I-2 Saue G-2 Sauna D-3 Sle G/H-1 Spruse pst I/J-1 Spordi I/J-2 Staadioni H-4 Sda H-3 Sgise G-2 Suitsu J-3 Sulevimgi B-3 Suur Kloostri C-2 Suur Rannavrav A-3 Suur-Ameerika H-2 Suur-Karja D-3 Suur-Laagri F-2 Suurgildi C-2 Suurtki B-2 Tartu H-4/J-6 Tatari H/I-3 Teatri square E-4 Tedre I-1/J-2 Tehnika G/I-2 Telliskivi G-2/H-1 Terase G/H-4 Tihase I-1 Tina G-4 Tobiase H-4 Tolli B-3 Tondi J-2 Tnismgi H-2 Toom-Kooli D-1 Toom-Rtli C-2 Toompea E-1 Toompuiestee C-1 Toonela I-4 Tstuse A-1 Tormi G-5 Town Hall D-2 Tuha H-5 Tulbi H-1 Tulika H-1/I-2 Turba G-6 Tri J-2/3 Tuukri G-4 Tuuleme I-5 Tve J-1 Tuvi H-2 Trnpu H-4 lemiste tee I-5 Uue maailma I-2 Uus B/D-3 Uus turg D-3 Uus-Kalamaja F-2 Uus-Sadama G-4 Vabaduse v. E-2 Vabriku G-2 Vike-Ameerika I-2 Vike-Karja D-3 Vike-Kloostri C-2 Vike-Laagri F-2 Vike-Sjame J-6 Vaimu B/C-3 Valli D-3 Vana-Kalamaja B-1 Vana turg D-3 Vana-Luna I-3 Vana-Viru D-4 Vana-Posti D-2 Vanaturu kael D-2 Vase G-4 Veerenni I/J-3 Veetorni H-2 Vene C-3 Vesivrava G-4 Videviku I-2 Vilmsi G-4 Vineeri I-3 Virmalise I-2 Viru D-3/4 Vidujooksu G-6 Vistluse I-4 Voorimehe C-2 Weidemanni G-4 Weizenbergi G-5 Wismari E-1

STOCKMANN

department store the best place for shopping in Tallinn!

A wide and inspiring selection of international brands and goods can be found in our fashion, cosmetic, electronics, home and food department. You can also visit our liquor store, restaurant, coffee-shops and beauty salons. We wait for you in Stockmann!

100 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

LIIVALAIA 53, TALLINN WWW.STOCKMANN.EE