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( 502) IV.—Kaschnir und das Reich der Sick [Kashmir and the King- dom of the Sikhs}. By Baron Cart vox Hiart. 4 vols. Bro. Vienna, 1840. Communicated by Captain Wasitixetox, Royal Navy. Newtnovs as ar the trrellrs and tourists in the present day ready to lake alvetage of etry opportunity for exploring fresh Countia, and active an has rocondy been the progress of geo graphy in most parts of the world, i stems strange that Central Asia, or rather the northern frontier of British India, should have iden, comparaively speaing, for tha moet part overlooked; that Wile one extremity of tho great Asiatic Msian rests upon the Souther font of the Ilimalaya range, all beyond these mauntains Shoul be either unknown ov so teacurately known as to render italmodtnnpoule to ly down the counties on out mape-—even such places ae Islamabad, Lahde and Kesha, names friar fs holsehold wands" bave hitherto been some miles in eror in fatitudes while the counties immotinely beyonts aforling a thous and interesting fel for investigation, ax that between Tosua and Indi to the west an worthy ti between Tne snd China to the east, are almost a blank on our maps. What, for Teatance nsdn times do welmow of Kan, af Kabah, or Yarkand? What of Gea, or even Lite Tibet? We do oot forget hat geographer amethe- names of Elphinstone, of Fraser of Burnt, of te Gevands, of Lioydor of Contlly-~and we vilingly concede to them the mesit of baring trace & Taminous ath throughout the ‘counties they vied but iit 10, the Fovernment of British India we look for a systematic and con Blew exouinaon of its tronters that whether sctated bya Aisire for the difsion of useful Knowlege, oF forthe promavon of is own commercial and pola interes, it shoul turn te fccount the rast rsoutces i hns tits commnnd—the talents of the numerous aficers which ain it sorices-for the puryone of {Mtg he ms ch sil emelpes the gvpapy of Cena ech expressions might almost seem misplaced, when we have lying before us four highly respectable works relative to theve Fepins; yet all of them (wih Terbaps one exception) en tie independent of the tndian government First cones the excelent journal of the lamented Moorerot and Trebeek edited by Profesor Wilson, whote crea jugment ani ational notes have nearly doubled tre vtee of the onan Hiastrted, moreover, by an admirable wap by Mr. John Arvowe pith. ‘Secondly, the joumey of Mr. Vigne by Kabul and Kashmir to Iskérdoh, enriched by beautiful drawings of these cities. Baron C. von Hct on Kashmir and the Sikhs. 563 ‘Thirdly, Lieut, Wood's route to the sources of the Oxus, whi he found in the elevated plain of Pamir, and whose description fully corroborates that of old Marco Polo in 1480—and Lastly, the work of which the title stands at the head of this page, which is not inferior to any of the preceding in geographical Interest, with the additional advantage of giving a detailed account of the natural history of the countries the author passed through. Quitting Europe in 1831, Baron Charles von Hiigel visited Syria and Egypt, and reached Bombay in the spring of 1852. He then travelled through the peninsula of India, visited Ceylon, the Easter and Society Islands, Australia, New. Zealand, and’ arrived at Santon in 1833, Returning thenee to Calcutta, he examined the northern provinces of India; and after a stay of three months the British Himélaya, crossed the Sate) at Belispir to Kashmir, which he reached in November of the same year. Making @ circuit by Attak, he recrossed the Satlej at Lud'hyinah to Delhi,* ‘and arrived at Bombay in May, 1836 ‘The preface and introduction to his work on Kashmir shows that it was not the mere pleasure of roaming that induced the author to travel over more than balf the habitable globe, but in order that he might enlarge the sphere of his ideas by studying mankind in their various states of civilisation, and enable himself toarrive at legitimate results from a comparison of the manners and customs of the different people he visited. The traveller then describes the several sources whene Kashmir is to be obtained from the ebro downwards, including all oriental, as well as European, authors ; and among the latter he gives full eredit to Bernier (1665) and Forster (1783). ‘The first volume contains Baron von Hiigel’s journey, in the diary form, from Simlah to Barahmilab, with a picturesque de- scription, and woodcut of crossing the Satlej at Belis-pir into the Panj-b; this being the first or most eastern of the five rivers whence this district takes its name. At Hari-pir the traveller speaks with delight, as a botanist, of the home of the ever-blowing rose, which he found amidst thickets of jasmin grandifiorum. ‘Throughout, the narrative is simple, it evinces an intimate ac- quaintance with Indian character and customs, and is evidently the faithful expression of what the author saw and felt. On the 15th November the traveller reached the Pir Panjél pass, whieh rises 12,952 ft. above the sea, and descended through the mag- nificent natural rampart of the Himélaya into the peaceful and picturesque valley of Kashmir. ‘The second volune contains in twenty-four chapters everything relating to Kashmir; its name, its history (the first part taken 3 Properly Din io - 564 Baron C. von Hitont on Kashmir and the Sikhs. from the translation of the Raja Tarangini, by Professor Wilson, whose merits are thankfully acknowledged) ; the geographical position of the town, laid down in lat, 34° 7" 30” N.* lon, 73° Y! 30" E. of Greenwich ; and at an elevation, by the temper ture of boiling water of 5838 ft. above the sea.’ The mounta and rivers, from the Satlej on the east to the Attak on the west, aredescribed in the fourth chapter, which, aswell as the following, enumerating the twelve passes into the valley, are a valuable addition to physical geography; the latter we would gladly ex- tract bad not the author kindly communicated the substance of it to this Journal, on his return to Europe in 1836.7 The sixth and subsequent chapters contain a description of the valley, rivers, and Jakes, among which Wulery is stated at probably 0 miles in Tength by 9 in average breadth ;{ the climate, boundaries, present state, chronology, money, weights, measures, and natural pro- ductions of Kashmir, with remarks on the adjoining’ countries the last is a chapter full of interest 10 all who love natural history. ‘Then follows a statistical account of the manufactures, system of taxes, imports and exports, trade, income, expenses, and population ; the last item is stated at 200,000 forthe valley, which a few years ago. was said by Mooreroft to contain $00,000: the town may contain 40,000 persons. ‘The succeeding four chapters comprise an uccount of ‘the gion and superstitions, giving a clear notion of the Brahminical as well as of the Buddhist, Sikh, and Mohammedan faith; the manners and customs of its inbabitants ; its monuments, with varioas plans, &e., and showing the little foundation there is for thinking them of such antiquity as to throw doubts on the received ehronology—and lastly, the author's concluding remarks, which well deserve the attention of all connected with India— they point out the misery that prevails owing to misrule in a beautiful and fertile country, and touch upon the great impro- ability of an army from the north being able to penetrate by Iskérdoh and Budakbsbin, ‘The limits of this Journal forbid any more than an extract from the Sath Chapter, deserbing the beauties of the celebrated vale of Kashmir. + 4° V 307 N, ty Trebecksclaeratons. ara vou Huge hngtade gies x stl ih hat deduzed by Be. Tuan Aerowenith, ie a "P Vete vi 315, vr | isa ais satan, of Ra Gadi vena 18 So {Ghatwin seem ohavecalled't Aulr ¢ Ole, "From heerginal roster of varoustraeer, don he toe Bron ven gel vehi werekully crtmaniated t my Ye Atowsth ba aed the Wed Wales Fake at Tod geographical mies, with a avorage beads a ty which wl jrotay be found very mes the trath, “hbeck give he tae of atese 30) Ne OF ure all travellers wil be sare hat ne olan rete acevo fr dhe Lie te, lngitode ad clovatin of aster Baron C. von Hex on Kashmir and the Sikhs, 565, “The valley of Kasbmle is bounded on the southem side by gently- fising dedivides; the, descent of Pls Pas in covered bythe mont Tuxuriant vegetation; andthe eye aly fom the magnificent firms and cours of the everelgtening hil, lit rests on te snowy peal ofthe highest mountain chain, On thi alde, betwen the gently Eininihing ranges of hil te greater and lee valleys nthe conte of which flow the purest Mountsinreums, which, higher upward, fon muerte casas "This the romans dt of Kasim From the lite open pains, covered with eouthem vegetation, the te teller asieson fue Danks of iver which winds trough the dep fe fleroil. ‘The valley arrows the farther he advances, and the moun- tainn approach esc other more nearly the higher they become. ‘The charm of the vegetable worl are then more attractive to an Baropeam, they develop themselves move clely allied to thove of ‘is dant Fatherand, ple, plom sd spit eo ese by wins hee go wi ‘Bima aud lows conceal the banks of the zven, the’ course of which ray be traced by ile murmuring over It rocky channel. Whitehorn thi spindle trees (euongnut arround wideapreading maple abd limes Or enormous chestnut fees, under whoxe shade they and narisou, Tavkspur aod aconite Manor, together with the Hae andthe xe. “Neer to it sour, the rverebanges ina. a foaming etaract, rushing over dark rock” Hlere begna the region ofthe pine, fom he Ingjstie dr (Th cedar ofthe Himdlays) tothe fir and other vaictien of tha ribe. Sill higher, the siver divider Iuto many steam, which flow through nazrow gorge, and Toe in the white foam ofthe exact, fal ito the aby below “Alpine plants, muay species of Hhododendron and daphne, here ‘gin atthe foot of the alder and birch, which bend beneath the weight of snow; and after these» strange vegetation, slightly eleyted from the tol eppeas ona plan already tated in the regiots af tera snow. “!Atnved on the height, the traveller sometimes treads femly on the encrusted snow, somettnesclanbering over uncovered somes; earefily ‘Seertaining wit hi tal hat the looe snow ouceaa o seen prec Pics, he etches one af the high peala, where a incomparable view resent tale “To the aut, on this side, the eye i dirctd tothe bare and fone ing precipice of the Pir Pnjl, aid then fr distant, over more than twenty valeysand tountain-tangen tothe panat the Pan-db lowing 4 the golden mia ofan Tndian oad “"Torthe right and let lie snow-covered plains snd ills rising over cach other in endlces soto; and nolsig ie visible for poncch freter distance than the eye ean dacera butte cil regions ofeteroal Se as rm ye deny il mown. The aly a 2 norther drecton presents a charming contest. "heqently-dclaig Tagine he ye he ter un hil cor esi ee tat, ner oves and rilagesy divided by alleys and Extaly gleams inthe light the morning sun. ‘he Jclan ows proudly ‘rough the centey ta banks studded by towers, castle, sod palaces, "Gn the other sie of the ale the mountains ns n bol forms — 566 Baron C. von Hert. on Kashmir and the Sikhs. the tomy whitenets rings the highest point nearer tothe exe than the lower dedvtesthe smowy hills there appearing to encloe the plain Te a wale Over thee the previonaly mentioned Jaindl rises neatly at tach ent af the valleys and the white ant Hack double pyran of the Mer and Se, ike» monument of cretion when God Swill he day and night. But on these heights which tse more tan 19,00 fet bore the level ofthe aes the fret moment alone is agreesle. "The sie Ihr ina rarefied, that a panfulheal-ache is the eonsequeresexea of shor say, which, increasing ever instant, tats Tong aftr the eset to the pai.” "To the wuthern side ofthe valley of which we hare spoken the zoologist and botanist must iret his steps, either to dacover new obj oft aire howe ately known in Beaty never ere sitneset. Here the thickest woods are mingled with open plsiny and the traveller neither fds tras levelle bythe a8, norte cote Homers Pree by the fotsepe of living beng “Ther absolute snes eign Theiresroresof vegetation, the lovee les forms af nature are cere prodigally amassed without an ttlliget spire w be. gladdened by tei beauy.” "The brook flowe noleclealy alongs no air rules thrvgh the tines leaves, andthe dep silence in only broken by the sweet toves of tho blue Gros, and ofthe balbul (ve nightingale of Kashi). These approach man ferlessy a8 in the days of Parain and are bin Tita companions inhi lonely pilgrimage. Erp ep frie ml in the Inter alleys fy uncullivte 5 the great plsins inthe principal one have been long aficient forthe nourishment Bf the population. The northern ide of the valley under the hill of ‘ier every diferent from the south aie ready desribl the hills tie wuddenly to. considerable height, offering an extensive feld to the tsilogin. Hew trees grow on thi ide, and the overs form in telt side tony channels an unbroken cataract—the bake smilrly covered ‘vith stones valle fom heir bed, are prey bare—hardly& blade af tras isto be found. "Stones are heaped over stones; rockpile on Sch other almont without vegetation, “the aacet on thiside ofthe his very dial afer the St few sepa; therocks consist of huge mates, the obliqne direction of which in many places offers no secer footing tthe sep of the traveler. Phe ‘alley Se hardly to be seen from the highent point ati ie coceaed By the int petpendiealor mountaln range. ‘Nothing i sen onal siden bicimow-esppel sume ““T know of no prospect wo melancholy a this no tre, no bid no living thing is to be seen™-a silence slmoatfeafal rege in these rocmtain fasinates; andthe name “ran” (wilderness which the fatives bestow on these regions, i rey applicable

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