( 502)
IV.—Kaschnir und das Reich der Sick [Kashmir and the King-
dom of the Sikhs}. By Baron Cart vox Hiart. 4 vols.
Bro. Vienna, 1840. Communicated by Captain Wasitixetox,
Royal Navy.
Newtnovs as ar the trrellrs and tourists in the present day
ready to lake alvetage of etry opportunity for exploring fresh
Countia, and active an has rocondy been the progress of geo
graphy in most parts of the world, i stems strange that Central
Asia, or rather the northern frontier of British India, should have
iden, comparaively speaing, for tha moet part overlooked; that
Wile one extremity of tho great Asiatic Msian rests upon the
Souther font of the Ilimalaya range, all beyond these mauntains
Shoul be either unknown ov so teacurately known as to render
italmodtnnpoule to ly down the counties on out mape-—even
such places ae Islamabad, Lahde and Kesha, names friar
fs holsehold wands" bave hitherto been some miles in eror in
fatitudes while the counties immotinely beyonts aforling a
thous and interesting fel for investigation, ax that between
Tosua and Indi to the west an worthy ti between Tne snd
China to the east, are almost a blank on our maps. What, for
Teatance nsdn times do welmow of Kan, af Kabah, or
Yarkand? What of Gea, or even Lite Tibet? We do oot
forget hat geographer amethe- names of Elphinstone, of
Fraser of Burnt, of te Gevands, of Lioydor of Contlly-~and we
vilingly concede to them the mesit of baring trace & Taminous
ath throughout the ‘counties they vied but iit 10, the
Fovernment of British India we look for a systematic and con
Blew exouinaon of its tronters that whether sctated bya
Aisire for the difsion of useful Knowlege, oF forthe promavon
of is own commercial and pola interes, it shoul turn te
fccount the rast rsoutces i hns tits commnnd—the talents of
the numerous aficers which ain it sorices-for the puryone of
{Mtg he ms ch sil emelpes the gvpapy of Cena
ech expressions might almost seem misplaced, when we
have lying before us four highly respectable works relative to
theve Fepins; yet all of them (wih Terbaps one exception) en
tie independent of the tndian government
First cones the excelent journal of the lamented Moorerot
and Trebeek edited by Profesor Wilson, whote crea jugment
ani ational notes have nearly doubled tre vtee of the onan
Hiastrted, moreover, by an admirable wap by Mr. John Arvowe
pith.
‘Secondly, the joumey of Mr. Vigne by Kabul and Kashmir to
Iskérdoh, enriched by beautiful drawings of these cities.Baron C. von Hct on Kashmir and the Sikhs. 563
‘Thirdly, Lieut, Wood's route to the sources of the Oxus, whi
he found in the elevated plain of Pamir, and whose description
fully corroborates that of old Marco Polo in 1480—and
Lastly, the work of which the title stands at the head of this
page, which is not inferior to any of the preceding in geographical
Interest, with the additional advantage of giving a detailed account
of the natural history of the countries the author passed through.
Quitting Europe in 1831, Baron Charles von Hiigel visited Syria
and Egypt, and reached Bombay in the spring of 1852. He then
travelled through the peninsula of India, visited Ceylon, the Easter
and Society Islands, Australia, New. Zealand, and’ arrived at
Santon in 1833, Returning thenee to Calcutta, he examined the
northern provinces of India; and after a stay of three months
the British Himélaya, crossed the Sate) at Belispir to Kashmir,
which he reached in November of the same year. Making @
circuit by Attak, he recrossed the Satlej at Lud'hyinah to Delhi,*
‘and arrived at Bombay in May, 1836
‘The preface and introduction to his work on Kashmir shows
that it was not the mere pleasure of roaming that induced the
author to travel over more than balf the habitable globe, but in
order that he might enlarge the sphere of his ideas by studying
mankind in their various states of civilisation, and enable himself
toarrive at legitimate results from a comparison of the manners
and customs of the different people he visited. The traveller
then describes the several sources whene
Kashmir is to be obtained from the ebro
downwards, including all oriental, as well as European, authors ;
and among the latter he gives full eredit to Bernier (1665) and
Forster (1783).
‘The first volume contains Baron von Hiigel’s journey, in the
diary form, from Simlah to Barahmilab, with a picturesque de-
scription, and woodcut of crossing the Satlej at Belis-pir into the
Panj-b; this being the first or most eastern of the five rivers
whence this district takes its name. At Hari-pir the traveller
speaks with delight, as a botanist, of the home of the ever-blowing
rose, which he found amidst thickets of jasmin grandifiorum.
‘Throughout, the narrative is simple, it evinces an intimate ac-
quaintance with Indian character and customs, and is evidently
the faithful expression of what the author saw and felt. On the
15th November the traveller reached the Pir Panjél pass, whieh
rises 12,952 ft. above the sea, and descended through the mag-
nificent natural rampart of the Himélaya into the peaceful and
picturesque valley of Kashmir.
‘The second volune contains in twenty-four chapters everything
relating to Kashmir; its name, its history (the first part taken
3 Properly Din io -564 Baron C. von Hitont on Kashmir and the Sikhs.
from the translation of the Raja Tarangini, by Professor Wilson,
whose merits are thankfully acknowledged) ; the geographical
position of the town, laid down in lat, 34° 7" 30” N.* lon,
73° Y! 30" E. of Greenwich ; and at an elevation, by the temper
ture of boiling water of 5838 ft. above the sea.’ The mounta
and rivers, from the Satlej on the east to the Attak on the west,
aredescribed in the fourth chapter, which, aswell as the following,
enumerating the twelve passes into the valley, are a valuable
addition to physical geography; the latter we would gladly ex-
tract bad not the author kindly communicated the substance of it
to this Journal, on his return to Europe in 1836.7 The sixth and
subsequent chapters contain a description of the valley, rivers, and
Jakes, among which Wulery is stated at probably 0 miles in
Tength by 9 in average breadth ;{ the climate, boundaries, present
state, chronology, money, weights, measures, and natural pro-
ductions of Kashmir, with remarks on the adjoining’ countries
the last is a chapter full of interest 10 all who love natural
history. ‘Then follows a statistical account of the manufactures,
system of taxes, imports and exports, trade, income, expenses, and
population ; the last item is stated at 200,000 forthe valley, which
a few years ago. was said by Mooreroft to contain $00,000: the
town may contain 40,000 persons.
‘The succeeding four chapters comprise an uccount of ‘the
gion and superstitions, giving a clear notion of the Brahminical
as well as of the Buddhist, Sikh, and Mohammedan faith; the
manners and customs of its inbabitants ; its monuments, with
varioas plans, &e., and showing the little foundation there is for
thinking them of such antiquity as to throw doubts on the
received ehronology—and lastly, the author's concluding remarks,
which well deserve the attention of all connected with India—
they point out the misery that prevails owing to misrule in a
beautiful and fertile country, and touch upon the great impro-
ability of an army from the north being able to penetrate by
Iskérdoh and Budakbsbin,
‘The limits of this Journal forbid any more than an extract
from the Sath Chapter, deserbing the beauties of the celebrated
vale of Kashmir.
+ 4° V 307 N, ty Trebecksclaeratons. ara vou Huge hngtade gies x
stl ih hat deduzed by Be. Tuan Aerowenith, ie a
"P Vete vi 315, vr
| isa ais satan, of Ra Gadi vena 18 So
{Ghatwin seem ohavecalled't Aulr ¢ Ole,
"From heerginal roster of varoustraeer, don he toe Bron ven gel
vehi werekully crtmaniated t my Ye Atowsth ba aed the Wed Wales
Fake at Tod geographical mies, with a avorage beads a ty which wl jrotay
be found very mes the trath, “hbeck give he tae of atese 30) Ne OF
ure all travellers wil be sare hat ne olan rete acevo fr dhe Lie
te, lngitode ad clovatin of asterBaron C. von Hex on Kashmir and the Sikhs, 565,
“The valley of Kasbmle is bounded on the southem side by gently-
fising dedivides; the, descent of Pls Pas in covered bythe mont
Tuxuriant vegetation; andthe eye aly fom the magnificent
firms and cours of the everelgtening hil, lit rests on te snowy
peal ofthe highest mountain chain, On thi alde, betwen the gently
Eininihing ranges of hil te greater and lee valleys nthe conte
of which flow the purest Mountsinreums, which, higher upward,
fon muerte casas "This the romans dt of Kasim
From the lite open pains, covered with eouthem vegetation, the te
teller asieson fue Danks of iver which winds trough the dep fe
fleroil. ‘The valley arrows the farther he advances, and the moun-
tainn approach esc other more nearly the higher they become. ‘The
charm of the vegetable worl are then more attractive to an Baropeam,
they develop themselves move clely allied to thove of ‘is dant
Fatherand,
ple, plom sd spit eo ese by wins hee go wi
‘Bima aud lows conceal the banks of the zven, the’ course of which
ray be traced by ile murmuring over It rocky channel. Whitehorn
thi spindle trees (euongnut arround wideapreading maple abd limes
Or enormous chestnut fees, under whoxe shade they and narisou,
Tavkspur aod aconite Manor, together with the Hae andthe xe.
“Neer to it sour, the rverebanges ina. a foaming etaract,
rushing over dark rock” Hlere begna the region ofthe pine, fom he
Ingjstie dr (Th cedar ofthe Himdlays) tothe fir and other vaictien
of tha ribe. Sill higher, the siver divider Iuto many steam, which
flow through nazrow gorge, and Toe in the white foam ofthe exact,
fal ito the aby below
“Alpine plants, muay species of Hhododendron and daphne, here
‘gin atthe foot of the alder and birch, which bend beneath the weight of
snow; and after these» strange vegetation, slightly eleyted from the
tol eppeas ona plan already tated in the regiots af tera snow.
“!Atnved on the height, the traveller sometimes treads femly on the
encrusted snow, somettnesclanbering over uncovered somes; earefily
‘Seertaining wit hi tal hat the looe snow ouceaa o seen prec
Pics, he etches one af the high peala, where a incomparable view
resent tale
“To the aut, on this side, the eye i dirctd tothe bare and fone
ing precipice of the Pir Pnjl, aid then fr distant, over more than
twenty valeysand tountain-tangen tothe panat the Pan-db lowing
4 the golden mia ofan Tndian oad
“"Torthe right and let lie snow-covered plains snd ills rising over
cach other in endlces soto; and nolsig ie visible for poncch
freter distance than the eye ean dacera butte cil regions ofeteroal
Se as rm ye deny il mown. The aly a
2 norther drecton presents a charming contest. "heqently-dclaig
Tagine he ye he ter un hil cor esi ee
tat, ner oves and rilagesy divided by alleys and
Extaly gleams inthe light the morning sun. ‘he Jclan ows proudly
‘rough the centey ta banks studded by towers, castle, sod palaces,
"Gn the other sie of the ale the mountains ns n bol forms —566 Baron C. von Hert. on Kashmir and the Sikhs.
the tomy whitenets rings the highest point nearer tothe exe than the
lower dedvtesthe smowy hills there appearing to encloe the plain
Te a wale Over thee the previonaly mentioned Jaindl rises neatly at
tach ent af the valleys and the white ant Hack double pyran of the
Mer and Se, ike» monument of cretion when God Swill he day
and night. But on these heights which tse more tan 19,00 fet
bore the level ofthe aes the fret moment alone is agreesle. "The sie
Ihr ina rarefied, that a panfulheal-ache is the eonsequeresexea of
shor say, which, increasing ever instant, tats Tong aftr the eset to
the pai.” "To the wuthern side ofthe valley of which we hare spoken
the zoologist and botanist must iret his steps, either to dacover new
obj oft aire howe ately known in Beaty never ere
sitneset.
Here the thickest woods are mingled with open plsiny and the
traveller neither fds tras levelle bythe a8, norte cote Homers
Pree by the fotsepe of living beng
“Ther absolute snes eign Theiresroresof vegetation, the lovee
les forms af nature are cere prodigally amassed without an ttlliget
spire w be. gladdened by tei beauy.” "The brook flowe noleclealy
alongs no air rules thrvgh the tines leaves, andthe dep silence
in only broken by the sweet toves of tho blue Gros, and ofthe balbul
(ve nightingale of Kashi). These approach man ferlessy a8 in
the days of Parain and are bin Tita companions inhi lonely
pilgrimage.
Erp ep frie ml in the Inter alleys fy uncullivte 5 the great
plsins inthe principal one have been long aficient forthe nourishment
Bf the population. The northern ide of the valley under the hill of
‘ier every diferent from the south aie ready desribl the hills
tie wuddenly to. considerable height, offering an extensive feld to the
tsilogin. Hew trees grow on thi ide, and the overs form in telt
side tony channels an unbroken cataract—the bake smilrly covered
‘vith stones valle fom heir bed, are prey bare—hardly& blade af
tras isto be found. "Stones are heaped over stones; rockpile on
Sch other almont without vegetation,
“the aacet on thiside ofthe his very dial afer the St few
sepa; therocks consist of huge mates, the obliqne direction of which in
many places offers no secer footing tthe sep of the traveler. Phe
‘alley Se hardly to be seen from the highent point ati ie coceaed
By the int petpendiealor mountaln range. ‘Nothing i sen onal siden
bicimow-esppel sume
““T know of no prospect wo melancholy a this no tre, no bid no
living thing is to be seen™-a silence slmoatfeafal rege in these
rocmtain fasinates; andthe name “ran” (wilderness which the
fatives bestow on these regions, i rey applicable