Volume THREE Fare ol a OMNI]The ARTof THREE YWOLUMES aking ‘Over 360 pages of Leather case-Making knowledge. EATHER. Cases... Av 4 ANN STOHLMAN VOLUME ONE: 120 pages This book offers information on weights (oz.) of leather...to help you understand thicknesses, It also explains the impor- Lance of *casing" leather. Hand shoe tacks are introduced with why and how to use them. Many methods of making and installing leather loops are shown along with the proper vays to attach dees, rings, bucklec, otc., to the cases. Tt alco shows how to make wooden forms and use thom, as woll as hov to doternine the size of a case to insure clearance within it. Hoy to bevel the miter joint. How to carry cases on a saddle. Instructions include the simplest knife sheath to a conplox C.B. (citisene band) case featuring many options. Other cases include a wide assortment: pliers, cartridge, playing card, cigar, cigarette, snuff, flashlight, eyeglasses, checkbook, hatchet, camp sav, cameras, binoculars, thermos, and more. And...now to oi1 then. VOLUME TWO: 124 pages This book gives instructions for making 20 styles of handles for cases, luggage, and handbags. Four pages of zipper infor~ mation include how to make them to proper length, sharten them and proper inctallation. There are many zippered casos includ ed. Instructions include the installation of hardware and case locks. A special section instructs on how to design cages and lay out the pattern. Tt also explains how dimensions dininish when the leather is folded,and how to insure roon for the con~ tents within. Welts are featured: making,splicing, installing. A unique pattern shows how to make round (ball) cases for shot putt, bowling ball, ete, Other cases: one-piece box, octagon, cassette, attaché, diplomat pouch, brief cases with accordian gussets, travel & toiletry, manicure, knitting & gadget bags, boot case, and more. many valuable tips are also presented. VOLUME THREE: 116 pages ‘This book presents some new techniques on construction and as~ sembly not offered before. Patterns for the shoulder tote and flight bag are given,with different assembly methods. Instruc- tions show how to design and make cases for any cordless phone or video camera. The attaché and pistol cases are leather cov- ered wooden boxes; special instructions show you how. Saddle scabbards are presented in various styles. Scope scabbards are shown forned of one piece of leather; we show you how. Other methods of making scope scabbards are shown. The proper ways are shown for carrying on the saddle. included are full length zippered cases for carbines, rifles, and shotguns. A "PORMULAT ie given for making case patterns for any gun, be it shotgun, lever-action, bolt action, or scope-nounted. Complete instruc” tions are presented for guitar cases and golf bagsFOREWORD We have finally completea Volume THREE of the Act of MAKING LBATHER CASES". It hae taken almost a year! We were going to also include garment bags and a complete line of luggage, but this would have taken the book to over 200 pages and at least six montha nore to complete. We also thought the costs and time involved (for the craftsman) would not varrant their construction, as complete sets of luggage can be purchased at reason~ able prices. One has to wonder if he could trust airlines and bus terminals (of today) with a beautiful hand carved suit-caset You should be able to make a case for al~ ost anything from the information within the payee Uf vur THREE Volumes, froma ote ple knife sheath toa celio case! Of course that would cake a lot of Lleather..-but it could be done by following the instructions for making the guitar case. in ali THREE Volumes we have explained how to make the fold gouges and how to insure clearance within the case for the contents- We have shown how cases can be made of one piece, or of individual paneis. It would be Impossible to give you patterns for every item manufactured. Wlowever,if you are seri— ous about making a leather case for a spec— ial item...you can do it...if you will only read and study these books. ‘the information is there. You may have to adapt sone of the construction techniques fron each of the WHREE Volumes For your particular case. Por thie reason it is important that you under~ stand vhat ic in each of these books. We have shown you how to make and install aippers and welts. We have shown you how to make and cover wooden forms of many shapes and odd designs. We have shown you how to make round and tabula: casea, tow Lo mke and cow the miter joint, the butt joint, and the proper way to install dees,uckles, leather loops, ani hardware, Wo have shown you how to make accordien gussete and hov to add stiffeners to your cases. You have, in the THREE Volunes, an extrenely varied and wide range of leathercraft knowledge, Tt 16 up to you, on tov you wish to use it, Tf you want to make professional-type cases you must read and study all of the pages in all THREE books until you understand all of the procedures and techniques. What nore can we do? Befare attempting any of the cases it would be wise te Eiret read all of the paseo: con cerning the projecty and be eure you andar Stand each step fros beginning 10 end. You Will often be referred to one of the other books where the steps are identical. This ito Save Us space, and you less cost. In not having to buy ertra pages. Feinting ia Very expensive. We have not included any tracing Patterns Tor the carving designs In this book. This would not only have made the book more ox: pensive for you, but chances are your cases hay be of a different size than ours. Our carving designs were taken from past. publi- cations where you bave access to the pat~ terns. Where we have used carving designs, we have indicated (by asterisk*) where you ean find them. 80...if you are serious about making leath- er cases...there is no reason why you can- not. We have certainly written enough words taken enough photograghs...and nade encugh drawings on the subject to pake CASE-NAKING easier and more understandable. Yours for continuing better leathercratt, Al & Aan Stohlnan Copyright 1987, Tandy Leather CoPot *cases"- vol-T “CASES*~ Vol. IT ae 7001s" Before we get into making more cases, we should reviev cose past Publications. The books shown at left have valuable information that 1s vital to the success of making leather cases of profes~ sional quality. Instead of constantly repeating ourselves in cer~ tain areas, we will refer you back to these otter Dooks, EXAMPLE: On page 21 of this book (*CASES*~ Vol.111) we tell you to make some welts for the Tote Bag. We tell you what weight leather to use, but no step-by-step installing instructions. this has been printed already. If you do not understand all about installation and the making of welts, we give you the nare of the book(s) and the pages on which the information will be found To save copy space, ve will shorten the nane of the books ax shown below each photo. Below, we have listed a for things that you nay want to review while making your cases. This will save you time and give you ready reference to the material desired. Attaching CALCHES and LOCKS: SCASES"- Vol.IT, pages 32 through 35. *100L8", page 82 Attaching DEES, RINGS, BUCKLES: TCASES™- Vol.1, pages © CO 3. “HAND SEWING, pages 37 Lo 40, Betting SNAPS, RIVERS, FASTENERS: MCASHS"- VO1.T, pages 10,11. "CASES*~ Vol.I1, page 35. *700L8" pages 80 through 89. LEATHER HANDLES. TCASHS"- Vo1.II, pages 2 through 23. “essis*- Yol.1, pages 32, 58,09 (epecial types). ZIPPERS ~ Making, Installing: "CASHS"- Vol.II, pages 26 to 31 and pages 102 through 117, WELTS ~ Making, Installing: "HAND SEWING, pages 45,46,52,53. "CASES'- Vol.1I, pages 75 to 78, 84 to 95 and 123. Proper trimming instructions, page 7). MITER JOINTS ~ Beveling, Sewing: HAND SEWING", pages 22,23, 24,28. "CASES VoL.t, pages 27,28, 31, 39,43 ,44,61,62,69,70,75,76,00,83,84,88,114,118. "TOOLS", 30. Gouging for FOLDS: "HAND SEWING", page 25. *CASES"- Vol.1, page 89. "TOOLS", page 34 to 36. "CASES"- Vol.I1, page 27. LEATEER LOOPS ~ Making, Attaching: "CASES"— Vo! pages 4,5,9. Belt loops, 13, *CAS#S*-Vol.11, pages 3,4,5. “HAND SEWING", pages 36 through 40. CEILING HOOK: Used for holding large areas of a case out of the vay while sewing the project in the stitching horse. the clothes pin can be replaced with a small clamp. *CASES*- Vol.1I, page 25. BROKEN GLASS: Used to even the edges of two or more pieces of leather, sevn or glued together. "HAND SEWING", page 63, "CISES*- Vol.II, page 25. When dull, break a fresh cutting edge. (eortinved on page 15)Cordless PHONE CASE Nost cordless phones are similar in shape and design. Therefore it will be easy to make a case for any of them by following the instruc- tions presented here, This case is for the Radio Shack Model E1395. among the considerations is whether you wish to use a shoulder strap or carry it on your belt. This case is made with both options. if carried on the belt, the belt loop can be set at an angle if desired. This may serve better especially in the sitting position. You will have to make this determination yourself by holding the phone against your belt at various angles while standing or sitting. See step 14. Pace 13 of "CASES Vol.1" shows many methods of installing belt loops. Be sure to study it. bray tine f1usn Se i \ a ' q 1 fron step 2. | y y tia let width of ' The first step in naking a pattern is to lay the phone on its side on a sheet of paper. With pen- cil draw around all of the contours to establish the out- line of the phone. Renove the phone. Now draw a line (shown broken) for the side pattern. this line should be about 1/8" away from the body and protuberances of ‘the phone. [a] the case Measure the width of the phone and add 1/8" to each side. This will he the inside dimen- sion of the case. ‘the above diagram shows how to doternine the width to cut the case leather this vill over lap the thicknesses of the Lining and outside leathers of the side pieces. (continued) NOTE: The width of a leather case mot never be wider at the botton than the top! Nost of these phones have parallel widths at the sides, “Letter 1st Craftaid No.2710. MAPLE LEAF: Inverted Leather Carving’.A tole will be punches 1 a pieces from oz. covhide 5 corsiee sins pieces = [G] cursive Tsr08 From pattern (in step 2) cut out = uk two Inking lmethere te ouse ie planned iste and right Side Piece. 1f you from Sox. cowhide. Ce- shown in the profile vant a shoulder strap, attach dees ment flesh aides toget! ove. ‘he Elap will 0 to the outside pieces as suggested ery trin to size. Gouge erlap the front of the above. Gouge # sewing channel all Sewing channel in top of cafes A Tuck-Cateh will Sround the cages Linings as shown above be toed for the closure, Toor for Finger Top of phene to Strip of bo. couide Botton of Receiver point (a) Flap Line Width of case (From step 4) [8] the front of the case will have fo determine how long to cut the case to dip down (at B) soa finger leather, cut a strip from the sam leather as the case can pull Up on the receiver to will be made of (on this We used Gor, cowhide). Begin renove the phone from the case. by placing the strip about 1* dow fron the tep of one ‘the flap (C) should overlap the of the end pieces (at A). Pit a matk on the stsip at cut (B) by about 1". (D) is the (B). This is located by measiring down from the top of full width of the case leather. the phone (see above). Fold the strip around the Side Piece, Hold snugly at overlap of point (A) and put a mark on the strip at (C), 1" dovn from mark (8). ‘ (continved!From step 0 [a] Ll@ End of Flap Press top against antenna to mark Leather Apply rubber cement to the edges of the case leather and Side Pieces as indicated above. Adher to the Side Pieces as shown, Place the phone inside of the case. the Leather Cermine size or shape of hole. Now make a pattern for the case from the seasurements and in- structions of steps 8 & 9. Use the marks on the leather strip to assist as shown at left. Cut the case tron toz. cownice. Sone trimsing 0° ‘elongation of tole nay be necessary depending Conenting ends, at : back of ease here Mark Fron step 11 Do rot apply coment on Punch a hole top edare the anten- or the sige te Chor. pheces Note that the | Tr iining 16 hee te not | uewa in cee nak centered on the | fee catch up teil haat mark. Different } 179" shove “in point (4) Sizes © styles { Brong narks rk made in the case; ciaht. Ds Fit the cateh on the fap (de not attach yet) and Join tho parts tagether. told the flap down at the top and push on the catch unit so the prongs will mark the leather on the front of the case. fe sure you are centered on the case. Renove the parts of, the catch. Observe the note above if the case is to be Lined vith leather. Teather Top edge of belt Leathers fold over at the top Put tap of loyps at [14] ‘70 determine the position of the belt loop hold the case against your belt as suggested above. Move it up or dovn to whatever position you think it will ride the best, or be most confortable. Often times the angled position will be more comfortable especially in the sit- ting posture. Mark the edges on the back of the case indicated by the heavy arrows above. Now peel the case leather off the side pieces. (continued)PHONE CASE — Continued siete UhA ie Pam oi == sf | H Seving | Sew the top ends of the Side Pieces as shown a~ TE the case is lined, coment the bove. Point (A) is where the front of the case ining in place after installing cementa to the sides...take one stitch beyond the catch and belt loop, Sow tho point (A). Snd stitching at point (x). This is top wige of the front ax show the transfer point for stitches (see atep 20). Sa! the Illustration above. Tuck;Cateh ace Foatiig “Sue (ops as kenge) hea aria aaa catch Lowe Complete all carving and stamping before installing the belt loop and catch parts, It is generally a good idea to cut the leather a bit oversize in case the leather stretches because of the stamping. When thoroughly dry you can trim it to the exact size. Add the lining and gouge the sewing ctannels. Now cement the case back together as instructed in step ll. One stitch (step 15] Begin sewing at the front of the ease. Stab the awl ~ through the channels at an angle, the same aa for the miter joint. ‘The first stitch begins at the top edge of the front and comes out at the end of the rone stiten* near point (A). Study the sketch at right. Continue sewing down the front edge, around the bot- tom, and up the back. Be sure the a¥l blade cones out in the side channels, (continued) Wooo! stitehiog rks in the yeTransfer Sa text below Pull stitch tight! ne stitch away frax point (X) Continue sewing up the back until you are one stitch avay from the transfer point (x) as shown above. Pull this stitch tight. Now ene of the threads mict be teaneferred to the inside of the tap of the case. Follow the instructions in step 20. Sew around the flap up to the Tuck~Catch. Backstitch, cut off threads. Resume sev~ ing on the other side of the catch. Sew to within one stitch of the point (x). Pull stitch tight! Continue with step 22. Continue sewing down the back, around the botton, and up to point (A) on the front side. Backstiteh and cut off the threads. Use a large Edge-Reveler around the case where stitching joins the side pieces; A snallor beveler on the top and flap. Burnich these edges. Ap~ ply your Eavorite leather finish. Sew around the case Stab the next hole fron the back to cone out at point (X). Bring thread (R) down through this hole and pull tight. Now stab a hole in the gare hole that theeed |A) ie in, only angle the avi to cone out inside the case, Put thread (B) through as shown. Stab next hole to inside of case, bring thread (a) to outside. Angle awl to come out in Side Piece at trans- fer point (X). Pull thread (B) through this hole...as shown above. Pull stitch up ‘The completed case is chow at right.More and wore people are using video cameras for business and pleasure. Many vacationers use then Lo record their holidays and other menorable experiences and enjoy playing then back for viowing on the 1V set. We have also purchased one. It is shown with cur personal case at left. The many makes, sizes, and shapes of a1 the models nakes it impossible to give patterns for all. We present patterns for out model with inforna- tion and suggestions on how to make Camera: a case for your ovn Video casera re- KYOCERA gardless of its size or shape. Ran Camenedor Naeen te deren the first thing you have to do is to record some of the measurements. Lay these out on a sheet of paper as we have shown here. ‘The measure- ments should be as exact as possible. The main measurements are the height, length, width. You must add to these dimensions to have anple clearance within the case for the canera. These dimensions are deter- mined by the type of case construction, whether it is to be lined or not. Also measure the open spaces around the camera as Shown with our sketches, az these areas can be used for installing pockets, etc.,in- side of the case. Imagine the total outside di- mensions as a block of wood. By cutting out the dimensions on the right side of the back and top views, you would have a section of the block ct out as shown (left). ‘his ar- ea is space not taken by the camera and can be used for pockets for video tapes, bat- tery packs, ete. Pockets must not be placed above any part of the camera to restrict its withdrawal from the case. 8 SCHIPHUNK; "Classis Patterns!!, VoleI. PIME CONC: Minverted Leather Carving.Vinro CANERA CASE ~ Continoed Broken Lines indicate in this non-camera space for 3 video tapes, 2 battery packs, close- up lens box, and a view-finder adapter. There are many ways of making pockets for these items, Ne have chosen a simple method shown below. once erirrery et eee Byer ah aan hy a Rstablish the bottom folds in the lining. To sew the pockets to the bottom Lining the Pockets are shown sewn to the back panel of back must be folded up at a right angle and the lining. Positions of the pockets must bottom edges cemented in place. Itens are be preplanned and marked on the leather. shown in pockets. Padding is sewn in place. Install the pockets in the fol- ret lowing manner: Sew edge (1) to other pocket. Cement [2) to back panel. Fold right pocket aside and sew (2), Cement (384) to back pan- el; sew. Fold back panel up,cement edges (5) ta bottom and sew. ‘The lens box holder is a simple strap cut to fit around the box. Sew edge (6) at top of video tape height. Install snapa in proper location, Snap stud is set inthe bene Lining leather. Cut parts fron 4/5 box 4 oz. cowhide. Gouge all fold lines, bolderVIDEO CAMERA CASE — Cont Inued VIRW-FINDER ADAPTER POCKET | Gouge | fotd , ines 1 Ktroxern} Fold Tebs in and clue to bottom Cut the view-finder pocket to the Ghape shown above. Woisten gouges and fold as shown. Other pockets can be made in the same manner...to fit other items. NOTE: If you are going to install the [10] ends with the edges turned out,above, then you mist increase the length of the case at each end by this amount (A). To allow room for the ends to fit in the case, the edge of pocket (B) and padding {C) will have to be set back from the edge equal to the width of the turned edges (A) of the ends. This is usually about 3/8". If the ends will be sewn with the miter- Joint then this extra length is not neces- sary, The ends of the case shown on page 8 are sewn with a miter-joint. It is a good idea to experiment vith leather scraps us- ing fillers and lining leathers. In this way you can see just how much space ia taken up within the folds, the end 10 assemblies, ete. Seving Shoulder Sipport / on page & you'll notice an area 3/4" 6-1/2" be- Jow the camera under the Jens. This can be filled by covering a piece of 4" foam rahter vith leather and ‘sewn to” the lining, on the bottom, ‘mis not. only cushions the cameca bit. prevents ite forward novenent to eep the lene from rub- [s] bing on the case. CAUTION: 1n step 1 ve nertion- ‘ed cding to the Yengrhywideh ‘ana height to give clearance TE the case will be Lined, che Aistance between fold Lines must be increased the thick- nese of the lining Leather. If stiffeners axe to be added fon all panels, the distance between folds must again be increased by double thickness of the stiffening naterial. All Of these things must be ccnsid- ered when designing your case, lap lining HINGING the END FLAPS Wing he Hinged . fil aoeee ee ee freer than the ‘th flap that is an extension of the End Piece. It folds freely in or out of the case; stays out of the way. Cut the stiver hinge about 1" wide, skive both sides, Glue about 1/2 between the flap and its lining as shown. Glue the other 1/2 as shown. leave a- bout 1/8" of exposed hinge betyeen flap and top of End Piece. Sew as indicated. cont.)(VIDEO CAMERA CASE es as [12] The dimensions for our case are shown above. All of the panels (and ends) were reinforced With 1/0" vonoor indicated by the Shaded areas. Except for the ends this construction is identical to that of the Cassette Recorder on pages 48-49 in "CASES Vol.117 The ends are instal1ea with the miter Joint conetruction.-.and have the Hinged Flaps as shown on page 10. Prepare the shields with tabs as shown. Push tabs through dees and cement to the flesh side of the shields. Punch holes through tabs and shields as il- lustrated. This makes a secure and attractive han dle attachnent. 7 punch, Chicago Screw Poste. assembly below Reinfore~ ing pieces Continued. see’ 1 Leck and all Catches Because of the pocket assembly \page 10) the Lining at tne cotton and back [23] must be cemented to the case at right angles. ‘The Lining cenents Lo the flap of the case same as step lt,page 19,0f *CAStS Vol.II". Sew the top of ‘the front, around the case flap | inclucing edges of the top) before cementing In the ends. ‘Tie makes Sewing oasier in thece areas. Alco burnish these edges before procreding vith ends, SPECIAL NOTE: If studs ace to be used on the bottom of the case, they vill ave to be installed before gluing in the Lining. Before the stiffen ers are glued to the case, glue the shield assenblies (centered on F the top) and sew them to tthe case. Cenent the stif- F fener in place. Drill toles through the top and stiffener. Insert Chicago Screws in toles and secure by cerowing posts up through stiffener on the inside of the case, Screw down Light. Now Lining can be cemented in, NOTE: When handles are put in the top of fost cases the area should have scme type of tif fener to give Firm support. <= Photo shows canera ond all items in their pockets, You'll mtice | how the hinges flaps fold out12 13s 18he7" Handle Mo.20 Cut out the bag. Make deep fold gouges in the bottom. Moisten and fold. Tap with a Cobbler's hammer and/or use a Sadler's Slicker to make crisp folds. Put center” marks on edges (see above). Make two End Pieces, Gouge heavily on the fold lines. Moisten and fold as shown. Cut out the Gusset and make the fold gouges (3 pattern}. Sew in a heavy zipper. If you wish to line the Gusset, follow the instructions on page 29 6 115 of “CASES Vol.TI", Put "center" marke on the edges (see above). With rubber cement, adhere the gusset to the bag (right). Begin by aligning the cen- ter marks. Use care to keep all edges even. Put marke on the gusset. Also be sure and mark the gussets to match the end pieces so they do not get sewn to the wrong ends. OAK LEAF: "Craftool TECH-TIPS*. On-Board FLIGHT BAG THis bag 1s constructed of heavy Leather and built Cor rugged use. It is designed to be carried on boatd and fits easily un- er the seat of modern jet airliners. It meets Pacific Western Airlines specifica- tions. It has two outside expandable pock~ ets that will hold a multitude of smaller items. The inside can be lined and fitted with any number or size of pockets you nay desire. The zipper pull has a tuck-Catch that can be locked. Personally I have nev- er seen the importance of Locks on zipper ed cases as anyone ¢eternined to get into them could slash the zipper tape around the sewn edges with a knife, Carefully observe the instructions. pat terns are given on the following pages. Cut out the parts as exact as possible. Rubber cement the End Pieces in the big as shown above. Put marks on the edges of the bag right at the top of the End Pieces. Remove End Fieves. Put sone i- dentification marks inside the bag and End Pieces so each fnd Pisce can be re- turned to its former position, Center marks af bag and gusset Mork eds of guoset even with ark 07 B19 Fron step 2Sewing Burnish—_Tuch-Cateh FLIGHT BAG — Continued Chanel this ede Lock spel, Fa AGNES ‘Install the lover part of the catch, centered on one of the cet Remove the Gusset from the bag and lay it out End Pieces. This goce on the [4] with the turned edges flat. cut in at the marke end with the zipper pull when and cut out a 1/2" section. Turn Gusset lining the aipper io closed, Bucnish side up. Peel lining loose (above) and skive the edges top edge;gouge sewing channel. thin. Re-cement the lining. Repeat on the opposite end. Cement lining to the ends. P| Now cut plece of eather the width of the Tock top and narrow it in the middle co Fit the hole in the zipper pull. Yorce one end in hole as shown Terenting abutted edges together is ‘the lock in [6] sak eaqiteed place. eas ue the ais Turn the edges of the Gusset back up. Cement the + tance needed Ends to the Gusset. Force End Pieces up so that — Midth of to fit in the turned edges are tightly abutted. Be sure you — the tep of ah me cut off. have the proper Gusset end matched with the prop- the Leck er End Piece (review step 3). Now sew the ends to the Gusset. The Gusset Assembly is now complete. “Tip PATTERN i Ls : yt = (MAKE. THO)- ee : Cut from 8/907z. covhide “ lg——Fold lines - make deep gorges——a} Glue the leathers togeth— er (4) and burnish edges. Install the lock (B). See completed bag on page 12. ‘ i t Make corner cuts up to better gouge | ‘ iCut fron 8/902. cownide PATTERN for BAG BODY FLIGHT BAG - Continued See en eee Bdge of Flap cements here. See step 12 Position of the. L Position of the Outside Pocket / | 1% ‘This PATTERN is ‘ONE-HALF SIZE 4 Center of Flap and Pocket Edge of Flap cements | aT ~ here. See step 12 B fold on 14“LEeap_sau109 aya Bupmous oaoqe = waaiivd az1s TNs veuorasnaaset 24 pram “soanpas024 BurDTOs Sua pueaszepun Artng nod ©: sprog z0u109 943 4aTA Gougeor dese ulin use Seen eee See ada BuTaans 970398 =a0H aSas Sui aNDORY Hw me ea ap1yRo> *ZOL/9 WOs$ IND (ML aH) (aoe) NMALLVd SPEUMOD “ZOb/fE WOE IND ~ (ome s¥n)- NOBLIVE aaana 30 Suyuuybag of \HE 94 TITH 2015 Jaddtz go uasuaT Te20n ee a eee N91 - 201s Jaddyz Jo Wabueat 31ey auo- et waddys Tnvay © 250 Ay ate w2/t no — 101s aeddz = %L ATE 24 TTES 328809 jo y3bueT [eIOL bee —_—______________________ yet - uabuat y2ssn5 Jo 3Tey ou eae a jpssrg 70 Z/T ATIUSHEIIS ana FF aAEL-xoG aq PINON aL “Bey aA OF BLAIS BUTT 1equag— 2TIIFT © PPE O3 UBrSep yessN0 ayy UI yd SE enaNS STL echet Flap for the cs pockets 5/4" wide Pocket = Billet Strap 2 i] 2 Make the Buckle Assembly fron pat- Wake a pair of handles with 2/8" terns on page 17, Make the Leather Sew the billet dees, about 13" fold to fold, Put Loop from 6/7oz. cowhide. Put the straps on the the Shield ‘Tabs through the dees Loop on Tab. Put buckle tongue in Pocket Flaps as and rivet to the bag. Fold Shield slot; rivet Tab to case. Glue the shown above. Be down, cenent to bag and sew. See Shield down and sew the Buckle As- sure to center pattern for their posirions. sonbly to the case. fe on tho Pap. Flesh side Fiesn side up Lightly surthe positions of pockets (8) ing then fold Lines (6) out Sy Fore — like a pyramid » = Sctibe lines on the bag for the edge of Cut out the Pockets and make all gouges as the Pocket Flaps. See pattern on page 14 indicated on the pattern, Be accurate! Mois~ for proper locations. Cenent the edges ten all folds and shape as above. ‘tap each of the Plaps in place and sew. fold line down...for sharp folds. Burnish all edges shown in heavy black Roving shanna round y © zipper 20" Long y os ‘ ce 172 pattern - aes —— ee i gn {<1 pattern ~ 10-3/4"—Total lingth - 218 ONE-HALF Size S see SPECIAL NOTE on opposite pase. Borrom Gusset J + for skiving these edges! Cut fron 6/702. Ccowntde hese guasets can be made from colored or Top eosget Burnished edie (anter wrk Complete the Gusset Assem~ cut out the parts for the bag from the patterns on page 20 bly by following the exact and above. If you are going ta carve the panels, do s0 be- same ingtructions as steps fore assembly. Make two Welts from 3/4oz. leather to go a~ 1, 1, 3. Tho Botton Gusset round the panels. Make them about 43" long. Skive the endo ‘overlaps the top and sews of the gussets as indicated on the patterns. Sew a zipper in place as showa above. in the Top Gusset. Burnish the ends of the Bottom Gusset. (continued) Put center marks on both gussets and both panels,at edges. aShoulder Strap. Now put the cing on the tab of the Strap Carrier and rivet it in place, flesh side out, as shown In sketch (a). Put the Gna'of the tab against the end of the Bottom Gusset and next lot so it does not interfere with to the edge Of the zipper the zipper pull. Fold strap down ana sew as ey Pocket here ‘he top edge of the gusset cements to the bag panel (large arrow). Sew this edge to the panel. The position of this edge is shown on the pattern on page 20. Turn gusset inside out stitching Fron step 10 Genter ark The gusset now cements to the pocket unit. Turn the gusset assembly inside out so Strap Carrier is at lower edge. This edge cements to the welt,step 15. 22 Frent Panel sews to this edge of the Gusset for best balance fF the Strap Carrier Flesh sides out Pocket and enter ratks ti) Ccenent the pocket to one of the bag panels. funy align the od center marke to aid. shown in (B)- Carerally align all of the edges 13 Now cement a welt completely around the panel. This cements over the edges of the pocket gusset at sides and bottom. You may have to force the gusset leathers in a bit where the welt adheres at these areas, Splice in welt Edge of Strap Carrier [a5] Cement the gusset edge to the velt on the pocket assembly, The pocket will be a tight fit within the qusset. Scribe quide lines as in step 6, page 19. Sew unit together.Too of baa Cement the other welt to the other bag panel...the same as in step 4. Submerge the project underwater until 1: 18 good ana wet. Kemove...ana drain the water out of the bag. Now hold the Bagi eae uanee Cee’ hovel) sa ons the weited scans cenain submerged. Ro~ tate the bag until all seams are thor- oughly soaked. Remove from the water, drain out all water fron the inside. Pocket. panel TOTE BAG — Continued OPEN the ZIPPER! Stitching Lo from step 15 zippers on the pocket and bag gusset or you will not be able to turn the bag right side out, Turn the project aver (Eeom step Th). Conant it to the welt on the other panel (step 16). when properly alian- ed tap all edges For better adhesion. Sew the Sdges together as in steps 6 + 15. Trim off the excess welt. The bag is row ready to be turned. through the Zipper opening of the bag. Use care not to force or unduly stretch any of the panels Or gussers. ‘Fake your Cine..the bag will come through the opening. Orce tered you will have fo reach inside the bag to tap the two bag welts as flat as possible. Being wet, it is easily ac- cessible. Now begin straightenine the welted seams and shap- ing the bag. Smooth out any wrinkles that may appear in the panels or gussets. To aid in keeping its shape put towels,socks or other soft material inside. Allow the bag to dry. While drying, contin- ue shaping as bag is J drying. When dry,dyes [74 if Z and colors can be used. \ — ‘ALTERNATE ASSEMBLY The bag can be sewn or laced as shown here. ..by turning the edges of the gussets out instead of in, as £or the wolts.he same patterns are used. Also, the panels and gussets are gouged + skived the same as indicated on the patterns, hasenble gussets by sewing or lacing. Woisten the edges and fold them out as shown at left. Se# or buck- stitch the Pocket Gusset to the Bag Panel as in sketeh. Cement units together a step at a time. Punch lacing slits and lace, 2 ‘Splice in volt at of bayTOTE BAG. ‘inued i OULDER SHOULDER STRAP PAD — Actual Size ‘netual ‘size Seving cE halla fe it q ih Prepare a shoulder Strap Pad as indicated above. cut another one (slightly larger} from 3/4oz. suede Leather. Do not cut oue the slots. Cement the two pieces together. --sew Apply cement only at shaded around the edge. ‘trim off the areas of suede and cowhide. Sxceas suede leathers ~ l ee ES Pattern for onde of the straps. cut ‘straps 1" vide betta} Fold to Fold] gh, SY ee ak ese ee ‘Space heles 1* apart Cut the shoulder strap 344" Long Cut a buckle strap 10" long from from 7/802. cowhide, Shape ends as 7/802. cowhide. Shape both ends shown. Burnish edges. Punch the billet as per pattern (upper right). Burnish holes as indicated. Novi: When making edges. Sew or rivet buckle to strap. folds, always moisten the leather. ‘The Shoulder Strap unit Push shoulder strap though the slots in the pad before buck~ Ling to other strap. The pad is adjusted For the shoulder by sliding up or down on the strap. If you want to put studs on the bottom of the bag, we suggest leather instead of metal. They serve the same purpose but will not mar the surface of furniture or y other material. Punch out 1/2" circles from 1202.cow- Shoulder Steap hide, Glue them 3/4" fron welts; 2" fron ends of baa. CarrierBOX GASES: 1A 3 /amet7-1/20e-3/ fandde Ho.8 the interior is lined with cot~ ton fabric, See page 33 and the Rack Cover. mn carving Designt his case is made by covering a wooden box terial used inside 2s reinforcing. ‘The re- TE feather. The corners are sewn with the | inforcing pieces can be left uncovered o Titer Sointa. For miter Joint construction, covered with leather or cloth (as chown at meet tie atowld be no Lighter in weight left). The double wall wooden construction then 7/G0a.Pne box for this case is made of ised here will ade weight, but mikes a very (ae manonite (hardboard) with the game ma~ rigid and durable case. NOTE: Tf a power saw ie used in cutting off the lid...you must allow for the extra raxoval of wood by the caw cut vhen Laying Out your case dimensions. York tox and Lid With these construction techniques you can make a case to any size desired. Determine the size of your case, and make a box as shown above. Put the smooth side of the wood on the inside. Be sure all joints are thoroughly glued. Clamp to gether until dry. Use white glue. Tf you do not have the skills or tools a car~ penter or cabinet maker can easily make the box. [2] Qur box was completely made with a hand saw. It is not as accurate, as a power table saw but will Draw a line for the lid evenly all produce satisfactory results by careful measur around the box; cut off the Lid. Put ing and cutting. Observe photos at top of page. marks on the lid and bor (above) £0 the lid can be fitted back on the the lid width ie usually determined by the type box in the same position, diring.as- of catches and handle assembly you use. All of sembly. This ir inportant for a good the hinges and other hardware should be selected Lit, Also put these marks on the in- before proceeding. The size and shape of catches side of the box and the lid. nay influence carving,stamping,or border areas. a *AAPLE LEAVES: “Inverted Leather Carving'!. MONOGRAM: Free: yle Lettering.Groaa See rire To help you understand where to make the gouges ened a vane fon the leather that covers the box...study the against cross-section sketch and notations elow. dur the bot example is oz. leather, which is 1/8" thick. Make all measurements accurately, BOX: Dark shading —y | LEATHER: Light ‘ | shading =} née Outside measurement of box/lid Point of gouges (for folds) extends 1/2 the thickness of the leather (at each side) beyond the outside of the box (in this case, 1/16"). Gut the leather—>1@ Point of gouges. Use the *v" gouge fer folds,——> a fall 2" longer than! Gouge a full 1/2 depth of the leather. 1 fepth of the ark from step 2. Also ark Leather Flesh side feritel INK a Edges of leather should be of equal distance all around the box on all sides. nears straight Lines. Extend Lines at the corrers as shown above Cut the leather oversize to be sure If the leather is to be carved, stab holes at the of ample coverage at the sides of corner marks through to the grain side, This gives the box. Center the box (as shovn) location of folds on the opposite side...allowing on the leather. Draw a line at each you to center the pattern. This is especially im edge, close to the edge of the box. portant if border lines are to be cut and ctampod, The leather should be cemented to cardooard or oth er material to prevent distortion while stamping. bo not remove leather until it is thoroughly dry! Turn the carved Leather to flesh side up and a- gain place the box in position. Check the Lines and corner awl holes from steps 3 6 4. They may not be exactly in the same position as before due to stretch or shrinkage of the leather. Set Remove the box. Now cut out fron the the box as near to the awl holes as possi- last corner natks of the bor (step 5) ble. Draw around the box again with ball~ to the outside of the leather. Do not 2% Point pen to re-establish the lines. be concerned with the avi holes.eee ey Cobbler! Hamer Lines (A) represent the edges of the box (step 5). The Now "wet" the gouges heavily on broken lines (B) are the point of the fold gouges, ex~ the flesh side, lichtly on grain plained at the top of page 26. These are measured aut side. Tating one at a time, fold from line (A)...equal to 1/2 af the leather thickness. the sidor in and tap Firmly with Gouge lines (B) to a full 1/2 depth of the leather. a hammer to mate clean folds, The edge of beveled gouge should be right at line (A). Lay back dovn to make next fold, f Z see page 26 Now lay the leather out flat again and replace the box. Be sure you have the marks from steps 2 & 4 in the same position as previous fittings. If all of your measurements and gougings have been accurate, the edges of the box should be right at the beveled edge of the gouges on line (A). See the enlarged view above. Tf all is in order, spot-glue the corners of the box to the leather. This is a temporary fitting. Place marks on the box and leather (above) so you can be sure box and leather can be returned to the sane position later, during the final assembly. Gut out corners Marks Fron step 10 Remove the box. Lay leather flat. Draw a parallel Line (shown broken) out from the marks in step 10, Pold sides up tightly against the equal to the thickness of the leather. Cut out the box and decay a line flush with the corners on these lines. (continied) corners. Repeat with each side. ajOX_CASES. Craftool Stitching Groever Continued urn the leather to the grain side up and Now turn leather to flesh side up and bevel gouge sewing channels along each edge, at the corner edges for the miter joint. Bevel all of the corners. Gouge to fold lines. right into the corner cut. Use CAUTION! Hack from step 2 edges and into fold gouges of eather This is how the mitered edges should fit at the corners of the box. Be sure you have put glue on the aitered Now glue the box to the leather with con- tact cement. While the glue is still vet, Fit the box in place and adjust it into the correct position. Allow glue to sot. Since dlue must hold the leather securely to the box, follow these proceduces: thin the glue Co about 1/2 strength and coat sides of box and leather tiberaliy. this makes @ ctronger bond, ao the glue ps trates the fibers of both wood and Leath~ er. Allow to dry. Now apply a second coat (£a11 strength) to the box ané leather... allow to dry. Continue with step 15. or [15] PEt tte prosect on tne edge ‘Of your bench and begin ad~ hering one side at a tine, Push up tightly at the bottom with a Bone Felder, ot Glass Slicker, and wotk it back and forth and upwards to adhere the leather to the bor. Be sure the beveled edges of the miters are aligned with the comers of the box as You work the leather upvards. Keep a close vatch on thio! the the If the leather appears too short to reach If the leather is too long, then first ad- the corners, put a thin cardboard between here the mitered edges at the corners...a8 leather and box to prevent adhesion. Pull above. Then force the rest of the leather leather with pliers to stretch it. Put a against the box to adiere.tt will compress fold of leather in pliers jaws so leather without any difficulty,..unless you voro will not be marred. Adhere one corner, not careful enough vith your measurements 28 Cenove cardboard, complete adhering. and cut it much too long. (continued)To prevent premature adhesion at the mitered corners, Strips of wax paper can be inserted (above) while the Side loathere are brought up. Watch the corners to be Sure they will be fitting properly. The wax papers can be slowly withdrawn to insure proper alignment. Usual ly, the corners can be adhered firs: to insure proper alignment. After all aides have been glued, tap all a Rub on both ‘sides of the iter joint to ‘smooth and insure adhesion. Stitching grooves Fro found the edges and inside to insure bonding (right). Now trim off the excess leather all around the box. Trim it flush with the box edge, Use a very sharp knife. Hold it firmly and horizontally. Stitching groove Overstitsh wheel a1 marks an equal dis~ ‘tance from the edges Now mark the sewing holes in all of the channels at the corners. Always begin at the top edge and wheel towards the bottom. Stitching holes must be opposite each other at each miter joint. ‘the first marks should be about 1/8" from top edge. When starting witha = > knotted thread, be sure to see page 24 of "HAND SEWING LEATHER". Also... for all other phases of Hand Sewing Leather. Excess Leather Ride blade a top edge of bor as a guide. Hold blade hovizorea) = Tf you have not done a snooth job of trimming, use & piece of becken glass; see page 25 "Cases Vol.1I", iter is Sew all of the miter joints as show above. Tap the seams vith a hanner. Round the miter joints with a large Bdge Beveler; burnish, (continied) ryide of the Lid ‘before covering it with Leathee? This ‘in important if the 1id is fit properly. Bevel all around the top edges of the Leath~ er; moisten and burnish. pye edges of Leath~ er and wood if desired. These can be finish- [23] ed with lacquer. Apply your favorite leather Cover the lid exactly as you have covered the box...folloving steps finish. Our case was stamped with irregular 43 through 22. If you have followed in- impressions of a Ribbed Shader and antiqued structions, marks chould be inside the to create a mottled affect. Lid and bok as shosn above tdges of id and bos Thongiag chiser When using Prong-type catches ané Hinges; use a Thomsing Chisel to punch 611ee through the leather and wood. BEWARE! If the prongs are ‘oe close to the edge, the wood my split out. ‘The example (left) shows. then too close to the edge at the lid, This 18 not recommended anless the prongs will clinch to the leather only. Serews or cutcheon pin hardware would be better © use where they attach near the edge and penetrate both leather and yood. Too close te edge oF Lid Spring Catch and Lock with prong mounts shown attached to case; closed. Space hare is alright When pronged hardware is used,the slits will have to be punched in the case be- fore handles or other hardware are in- stalled. ‘Thic is explained in atep 25, To be sure of getting prongs in proper Location on the cise, make a pattern as shown at lett...be accurate! Litting ee the box Top of case opens Winge stops ae oF prongs. in exact locations Place the Lid on the bor.align all cor~ hers.1£ necessary have someone hold the Lid firmly in place.iold pattern firmly in Place. Carefully mack prong positions with pencil. Measure an equal distance 30 in from both sides. (continued)ald the Chisel peendicalar onciNs BOX CASES — Continued NOTE: If you do not have a chisel wide Bl Gnough, move over and strike again to lengthen the slit. ‘To punch the slits, you need a finn surface to pound against, cut a block of wood that fits tigntly inside the bor (left).Place on a firm surface and tap the | © chisel lightly at first to clearly)” Block - @8tablish the prong positions. Nith “| ef ved ‘Seater force, strike the chisel re~ aed Beatedly until it qoes through the bor and into the block. Punch all of the slits in the tox. is we’ then put the support block of vood in the lid and psc p the slits in it. Remove the block. You will rotice that the wood inside the box and lid hee Ties surface Ee “chisel penetration. Remove thane Chisel so the wood is reduced to its normal thickness. CLinchirg support Now push the hinge prongs into their re- spective slits. You will probably have to tap them a bit vith a mallet. Check to see if the [ez] vm you have @ proper fit re- move the Lid and bend prongs inward insice the box. Use a sup- lid fits snug on the box. If too loose or too tight you will have to lengthen the slits of whichever ort between hinge and stud so you do not danage them. This can be a Prongs are causing the problem. Bott Center of the case length Fit the lid back on the box only to determine the distance from the box edge to the center line, The handle will install on this line... centered over the center of the case length. Since the center line is so close to the edge of the bex (on this case) we used the handle loop post assembly (right) as it makes a very narrow installation. Measure the distance be~ tween the loop posts and drill corresponding holes through the case, as shown at right. Conter line of wideh narrow strip of wood, or metal, Handle Mond tandte Leap Center of Posts case width Drill holes Netal back Se Tin Put the screws through the retal plates, into the holes fron inside the box,and screv into loop posts. 31Spring Catch Lock Catch Now install the lower half of the Lock and the Spring Catches. Screw in place. If the catches are attached with escutcheon pins, they should be installed before the handle as it will make the riveting easier. We now need reinforcing pieces for the in- Side. Cut them from 1/8" masonite. Length is cut to fit snugly between the ends. The height will be 1/4" above the edge (above). These pieces also act as a guide, insuring the alignment of the lid. If these pieces are going to be lined,then they will have to be cut shorter at all sides equal to the thickness of the lining material. Back Piece DO HOP put glue on this 1/4" areat When you are sure the pieces fit properly, glue them in place. pouble coat the pieces and inside of the box with glue as explain- ed in step 14. Insert each piece at an an- gle 20 that the bottom edges make first contact. Tap with a hammer to insure bond- ing. A back-up hanmer can be used insice of TE you wish to line the case,..nov is the time to put the lining in the bottor. the material can be coshide, pigskin, colored garment leather, ete. Cut it to fit snugly within the sides, Glue in place, See text below Cut the measurements (A) & (B) From the in~ structions at left. Mece pieces must fit flush against the inside of the box. ‘Tey cover up the handle serews, hinge prongs, rivets, screws, etc, Therefore these areas must be gouged oat to insure a flush fit. They can be roughly gouged. Use wood chis~ els. Fit pieces inside the bor to be sure they are gouged in the proper areas. Front Piece cut the end pieces the same height as the side pieces. Cut the length for a snug fit between the sides. Again...if they are to be lined, reread insteuctions in step.22. ‘The thickness of the lining naterial must always be taken into account, Glue the end pieces in place. (continued) the case while you tap around catches, etc. 32 See LINING INSTRUCTIONS on OPPOSITE PAGEBOX CASES — contined Now attach the lid to the hinges. Bend prongs ina in step 27. Close the 11d of tne bor and attach the upper part of the Lock and catches, If the 1id will be Lined, follov step 31. Record the wurenent 3/a" Less than, edge of Lid Hinge prengs. Now we need four pieces for the lid, cut them from 1/8" masonite. the lengths of all Reinforcing pieces should be the cane av for the box... piece covers ty chis time ene pieces will oe cut 3/8" fertee Yess than the. 11a aepen (ett). me ceason for thie is to inoure closure of the lid in case any measurements were cut wrong. Orit you failed to account for the lining thick esses these pieces might tide on top of those in the box, preventing is elosure. Glue the panels in place, following stepe 34 & 35. the case is comlote; see page 25. Note top Skive edges Cut corners bit to offset has wore to a Feather carefully folds in cloth aterial in step WD ® Use rubber cement to adhere cloth to the wood. Brush lightly on cloth to adhere on the broad surface. Use liberally to adhere all folds. the end (B) is first fold ° then fold corners (C). Cut leather from very Light material. Skive edges well. Cut oversize at botton then trim flush vith edge after qluing to panel. Glue folds (B)k(C). Found with hanner. Pockets can be pat in the lid as with the attaché case on pages 55 and 56 of "CASES" Vol. IT. ‘The dimensions may have to be altered, Final folds are (D). Pound with a hammer to insure bond.our case had cloth cover~ ed 4/50, leather in bottom of box and top of lid. See opened case on page 25. Algo see pockets of brief case an page 116, CASES, Vol 11". Bwhis for clea styr prot and the ly i Carving Design® This cage is made much like the one on page 25, with some variations. It begins with a Wooden box. ‘This box, however, 15 mage trom L/4" plywood and docs aot need the inside reinfarcing pieces since the extra thi hess of the plywood makes it more rigid to begin with. ‘The dimensions of the case are Setermined by assempling all of the items YOUR GUN 18 Nor LOADED! BRRAK-DOWN CLEANING ROD EL plywood cartridges }———— 2p sn ———>} | <1 — Inside box 4 PISTOL CASE revolver, full box of shells,gun oil, cleaning a compartment’ for rofoam padding is also in the Lia. case is made a 357 Magnum rod, and ning patches. ‘ofoam padding ects the gun holds all of items secure- mn place. Sty- to be included. ‘The cleaning rod should be Of the break-down type preferably with flat handle. A small qun-oi1 container stoula be Used to best utilize opuce. If necessary, urchase a small bottle [regardless of the Contents) and clean it out thoroughly. Then transfer the oil into this bottle and tape @ label on it, as we have done here. Be. eure to untoal any pices before Clerc ieee ae ation mone, tu aiwats ‘assume iver Gim 10 Be VeaDsD? 4] ‘The first step in mking your case is to lay all of the iters on a sheot of paper as suggested in the sketch, Jigcle them around to use up the least anount of Space without crowing. Measure out about 3/4" from the item and draw Lines show. Use a square to insure 30* cornore. these Lines will be your inside dimensions for the case. Tho cleaning rod hae anple room above the gun and will be contained with @ Leather divider, glued in place, step 39, The handle fits easily beneath the trig- ger guard of the pistol, the reason ites are shown upoide down ie thet the handle of the case will be at the top of the gun and the top of the gin oil when the case is carried upright. We could have shom this the ether way around, but we vanted you to identify thie with the opened case in the pnoto above, #ron the illustration at left, you can ive how the inside and outside ‘dimensions have been determined, ' \ ' Lhe ® i Use the sane proceduces for Lage eae SS Automatic, ot other pistols /<——.utside box dinensions ——————>} < *GUN-FIGHTER: "Wow te Make Holsters". FINE CONES: "Inverted Leather Carving"PISTOL CASE tinued these items are fitted into « sheet of Styrofoam 1" thick. This gives the gun naxiaun protection within the case. ‘The same principals can be applied to make cases for a va- riety of other subjects. Follow the step-by-step instructions presented in the building of this case. Nov, with a sharp knife, cur out the gun and shell box areas. llold the knife per— Pendicular, making cuccessive cuts until all the way through. Remove the styre— foam fron these two areas. Lay the Styrofoam on the bench and place the pistol and shell box in their cut-outs. You vill notice in the edgeview (below) chat the shell box is higher than the gun. Next place the gun oil and handle in their positions. Now, they are higher than the shell box. To make the case box as slin as possible these two items should be recessed into the Styrofoam to the height of the shell box, or slightly lower. For the nandle, the depth measured at (A) must be taken out of the foam. Measure (B) for its re— cession depth. Remove all itens. Follow ing your marks in step 2, gouge out the foam to the depths and contours of the handle (A) and gun-oil bottle (B). Wood chisels make good tools for this work. cut the styrofoam to the inside @imensions of the box less 1/8" all arcund eee a Inside box ieee 9 f] (ue @ piece or styroroan (or 1* tick ness) as indicated ebove. 1© your tox 16 Tay" x 7"..-then eut the foan 1/8" less all around: 124 x 6-3/4". Place the items on the foam in the same positions as before. Do not be concerned with the rod yet. Hole firmly in place and (with a Felt pen arker) deaw macks Sbout 178" out fron each item, ae suggested by the dotted lines above.Use a straight eiae to mark around the shell bor. You do not hive to follow the exact contours in sone areas... ae indicated around the trigger guard, ete. Cylinder of gun EDGE VIEW above Styrofoam is shown ready for step 8, Height of Shell Box %PISTOL CASE ‘Continued [5] After gouging cut the areas in step 4, place all itene back on the foam and check pointe (A) and (B). the sketch above shows the handle and gun-oil prop- erly positioned. From this we can deter- mine the depth Of the box...see step 6. pace 25 bales segived ab the else of the bex- Our case Game to the dimensions shown above. Yours nay be different altogether. Now you must plan on the types and size of the hinges, <.from steps 1 through © we nave catches,lock ete. We have chosen the 1id Line at 7/6" to give ua ample room to in- stall the handle on the center Line. CAUTION: If Using a power sav to cut off the lid, the depth of the box must be increased to compensate for the width of the saw blade cut! ¥ Make the box and 6 cl Uithin the box a eee ae we Total otal Height of |, oursipe ——rnsipg shell Ginension dimension YF ee of box of box { : Box - 1/4" plywood 6 padding box dimensions are determined. The styro- foam unit will rest on a paiding of 1/4" foan rubber or shearling that is qlued to the bot- kom of the box. Thio addo further protection for the gun. At Least 1/8 clesrance should be allowed at Ehe top {see sketch above). Shiver Leather Cut a piece of skiver considerably larger than the Styrofoam. This is because the doep cut-outs will pull the leather in from the edges. Soak the Leather thoroughly. *Case" it if possible. Place it over the styrofoan and begin pressing it into the depressions and cut-outs. Push it in as far as possible, especially in the shell box, gin handle and cylinder areas. Don't be too concerned about wrinkles at this tine. Nof?: Cloth could al- so be used in place of the skiver leather. Now cover the pistol tightly with sar- an Wrap to keep moisture away Erom the gun, Also wrap the shell box. Place the gua in position and force it down until the cylinder and the butt of the pistol grip touches against the bench. Next, force the shell DOX all the way down, Folds vill appear (arrows) that cannot be avoided due to the sheer-walled depth of the cut-outs. the handle and qun-oil will be less troublesome. Work out wrinkles between subjects if you can ‘and press around edges to establish the outline of the foam. Allow leather (or cloth) to ‘dry, The leather under the barrel does not go all the way down, it vill act as a 36 cradle for the barrel and should be on a horizontal plane, (continued)Betton View When the leather has dried, lift up around the edges and ap- with the project turned ply cement to the foam and the leather. Lay the leather back upside down, you can see down and rub with a Bone Polder to remove as many wrinkles how tie sliver leather as possible. Pull towards the edges. Work completely around has been forced dovn into the project in this manner. a] Now appiy cement to the underside of the leather and to the sides and ends of the Styrofoam. When dry, pull down and adhere. Split and trim leather flush at the corners. Trim off flush at the botton, Fold gouges the cut-out areas. NE te S&S Se tert ~ [12 If you axe dissatisfied with the folds and wrinkles, make pattern on heavy Paper of all of the iten areas (above). Keep fitting and trimming until all openings are properly cut. Transfer this to 6/Tou. leath- €€ and cut oat the openings. Cut the outside dimensions oversize;trin to size later. Bir- nish all edges in the openings. apply leath- er finish to tne surface and all edges. Glue in place. Trim outside edyes to proper size. After sawing the Lid off the box prepare the leather for both parts. Cut fron 1/802. cov hide. ‘This case will be niter jointed at the corners. Follow the sane instructions exact- ly as on pages 26 6 27, steps 3 through 11. Be sure to put the narks inside the box and lid so these edges vill go tozether during assembly. Now spot-glue the bor and lid to their leathers (Left). We are ready to turn the sides up for more fitting. (continued| 7Excess Leather edge [14] Moisten gouges and fold sides up (one at a time) tightly against the box and place this side on the bench. Hold it down firmly. Mark the leather close to the edge of the box. This will be trimmed off later. Tip eanh cide in this manner. Be eure thers ie the thickness of she dentuse esucnaca ec each side (indicated by arrows). Yow must have enough leather for ehe miter jointos Lining strip, Shived edge: Now cut lining strips for each panel from 1s/2oz. leather. Skive one side. Cut them 1-3/4" wide, for the box, and lengthwise to Fit right at the beveled edge of the miter joints. Their purpose is te cover the edges of the plywood and form @ lining inside the ease. We used Silver Kid for our lining, Now cont inue the assenbly following steps 14 through 21 on pages 28 and 29. Your case should look like sketch at right. SPECIAL NOTE: before gluing the Install the han- dle the same as with the attaché case on page 53, 38 “CASES, Vol.II". PISTOL CASE — Continued Burnished leather to the box, the slots and holes for the handle should be punched in the leather on center line (see step 7). wT fursished sige After marking cach side (step 14) 1 move the box and trim off the exces leather on your marks. Turn to grain side and burnish the edges you have just tringed and gouge sewing channels along this edge; also at the corners for the miter joint. Turn to flesh side and bovel the comers for the miter Joint. This iz exactly ax in step 15. page 28 ising 1fi202. leather Begin and end coving ft alter joint chinnele leone Joint channel Cement the skived edge of the Lining strip to the burnished edge, 1/2" down, and sew as shown. Repeat with each panel. LID: Complete the lid up to this poiat exactly as with the box. the lining strips for the lid should be wide enoagh to cover the inside of the lid. 1} to 2" is ample, Slots Far Handle | holes for rivetscheon Pin i Spring Catch Escutcheon Pi Drill holes through the bor Install the Catches and the Lock. ‘The prongs at rivet holes and slot for g0 through the box (see step 25, page 31) and handle. Use Wood Chisels o- clinch on the inside. Drive the escutcheon Coping Saw to cit the slot pins, of eatches, through the bex and clinch out of the wood. iat on the inside. Be sure co use a metal surface ttas when clinching pins or prongs. . — stead ae River = Nanéle——— = Tab slots Lining Tobe FL FuU0 vith Treks of box tab area chiseled out [22] fet] Now the wood inside the box must Install the handle. moisten the tabs and push be recessed so the handle tabs them through the slots. Pull dow tightly with Will lay flush with the inside of the pliers. Spread out into recesses and att the bor at each side of the slot. Chisel hole locations from outside of case, Punch holes the depth out to the thickness of the and cut off taba to fit recesses. Push posts of leather. thia case had the civete set rapid rivets through holes. *Set" the riveta ae close to the edge, 0 the wood had to above, of use the flat end of an anvil protead- be chiseled out to the edge to accom- ing over the edge of the berch to rivet against. nodate the tabs (see sketch above). urn the box around and install the hinges. The lid will be added later. If screws are required, use short ones. If they come out inside the box, renove them and cut off the excess. Now screw them back in place. Set the box on the bereh (above) and apply glue inside the box,on its edge, and to the Lining. Do ‘one side only; go to step 25. 9Felder to locate insi edye of box Fold Lining ever Set the box on its bottom. Fold the lining tightly over the edge. Rub with a Bone Folder to insure adhe- sion on the edge. Make a 45 degree cut in the lining to the inside corner of the plywood box. Alco make a 45 degree CUE ar che oppusite corner. reim off the ex cess lining (c) Fight In the corners. Now...taking one side at a time, repeat the Bteps 24, 25, 26, 27- Gris vill ‘compleca the box...except for the interior. Apply contact cement to the botton of the Styrofoan unit and liberally to the shearling leather in the box. While the cement is still wet, carefully push the Styrofoam unit down evenly inside of the box. Press firmly all over the unit to be sure of adhering all areas. 40 Lining strips. Cut | to 2 wide Lay the box back on its side ond fold the Lin~ ing in. Use a Bone Polder (A) to adhere Lining inside the box, Work the folder tightly in t corner (B). The turned up Lining (C) will trim Off in the corner. Notice the edge of the 1i ing (D) does not go all the way £0 the botto This 45 not necessary az che stycofoun unit will cover thia area plus obit of the lining. 1/6" paiding Cut @ piece of 1/4" shearling to fit inside of the box. Apply contact ceent Liberally to tie bottom of the box. While the cement is still wet, press the shearling in place...Wool-side down. NOTE: 1/4" foam rubber, or felt, could also be used for the padding. Complete the lid to the poiat shown above. Use the exact same instructions a5 Cor mking the box. Use the same material for lining strips.PISTOL CASE — Continued Fold Lining Now place the lid (with lining folded in) on the box, as shown above. Prom step 30, fold the lining strips in, to the top of the lid as shown above. DO NOP coment then yet! Top of Spring catch Nake a paper pettera for the preng Locations De sure the lid is properly positioned adviseablo to insure the proper locations (re on the box. Put the top of the catches view page 30). Since these are eo close to the in place and mark locations for the es- edge, your chisel should te ground dom very cuteheon pins. These are installed as thin to minimize splitting. ‘the leather, being with the catches in step 19. glued to the wood, will help prevent splitting. 20 wor glue the lining in yet! Tria off excess 11 where sides meet top of Lid after installing the catches, follow steps 24 through 27 to complete the lid. Here the lining covers the sides. Trim excess as shown. Now cut a piece of 6/Toz. leather to fit snugly in lid. @he lined area in photo at right shows where Styro- foam will be put in the lid. This will press against the gun, handle, etc., to hold them in place when the lid is closed. Since the shell box will almost touch the lid, foam is not required here. (continued)pe Remove the leather (step 35) from the lid. Cut a piece of Styrofoam to fit on the lid leather as shown above. Note the clearance at the shell box.Measure fron in- side the box to determine these dinensions. Giue the foam to the lid leather. The edges can be rounded a Dit co the cover leather gece on cauier. Foam rubber can be used in Place of the Styrofaan if available. Now glue the unit inside of the lid as illustrated above. Be sure the catches are at the top. A Saddler's hammer is ideal for insuring adhesion around the edges out- side of the foam. Patches. compartnent. Rod conparteont: Cleaning Rod Edge of Shell Flush Box compart with top ‘The COMPARTMENTS GLUED in PLACE 2 Bane Folder Be] Use skiver oc equal Lightweight Leath- er to cover the foan, Cut it oversize; adhere with rubber cenent. Cover vhile ce- Rent ta stil wet wort soon tisnely aeoeed the foam. If it does mt adhere well enous at che edges, pect” tome (eigen) and sore Sieh eonteee: ent. Sa ermine tie pice of Ge ee ee area can be leet open to bo personalized ca mith Gur case (ace shots, gare a} te top of [39] Shell Box ~ Cut the pieces to fit as shown. lua the miter Joints together. Glue compartments in place using white glue for all bonding, Height of the patches compartment must not exceed the height of the shell box. ting the lid on the box, Push Gown on lid, Tis will indent the fom vhece it presses a- gainst the gun cylinder, oil bottle and bandle (see photo), 8/008. covhide (all pisces) Align all corer and screw hinges to the Lid. Prom step 23 you will know hoy long the Screws must be to keep from coming out inside the case, The case is conplete.SADDLE SCABBARDS ~ for RIFLES Rifle scabbards can be made from a variety of leathers depending on the useful purposes ror them, The main purpose of the scabbard is for maximum protection and easier transportation of the gun on horseback. Our instructions (in this section of the book) are for scabbards to be carried on the saddle. These are made of heavy leather with special dees, straps, etc., for saddle attachment, For those simply wanting gun protection (not horseback trans~ portation) the leather used can be lighter in weight and many of the dees,slots,and straps can be eliminated. See pages 64 through 77. There are many ways of attaching the scabbard to the saddle. Several methods are shown. The modern saddies usually have double riggings. The seabbard straps are usually tied into Ehe tigsing tings, On cur saddles, we often add extra dees especially suited to placing the Scabbard in the most optimum position for the horse and rider (see below). EXTRA DEES FOR REACHING THE SCABBARD Illustration is fer carrying ies Reveree for lett Scabbards can ride higher and in better po- sition by attaching dees as shown above. Use heavy rawhide strips to anchor the dees by screwing through the leather and into the wood of the saddle tree, Use the countersunk washers with the screws for more strength. When carrying the rifle on the cisht side with the butt to the rear, the rider can Nithdray it as ho dimounts. ‘Te bute of the rifle has less chance of sagging on bushes and branches and is also protected With the lever-action rifles the scabberd can be carried high without too auch dis- comfort to the rider's leg. This is the ideal way to carry the guny..as high os possible. Tt not only makes it easier for the rider to reach while in the saddle, but also helps to offset the pull of some of the extra weight of the rifle on the right side. Lever-action rifles can easi- ly be carried on either side of the sad- dle. the short-barreled lever-action car~ bine is the ideal sadéle gun! 3‘SADDLE SCABBARDS - Continued The bolt-action rifles (especially with telescopes) are much nore difficult to carry. The stocks are usually bulkier than the lever-action guns and the pro- trusion of the bolt limits positions in vhich it can be carried. The bolt should not be placed against the horse. And...the scope should not be carried upside down where it rides against the scabbard. This could easily throw it out of adjustment. Some people carey their guns with the butt forward but thia is not recommended as explain- ed in the copy at right. SPECIAL NOTE: We have designed a scab~ bard where the telescope cam be carrica Upside down by inetalling a special se~ curity strap. This appears on page 48. When dismounting, the With the extra bulk of the bolt-action telescope rifle, the barrel end of the scabbard must often be Lowered to mini~ mize discomfort to the rider's leg. ‘The extra weight also adds to the pull on the saddle to this side (see suggestion at right). The rider can compensate for this by putting a little more weight in the left stirrup, if it is required. Too often we sce pictures with rifles carried in this mnrec. Although the aun fs easily withdrayn wiile the cider 15) in the saddie,there are cone objecticn- The rifle butt is subjected to snag ging on low hanging branches, and heavy Brush. Also, the open scatbard’ allows en~ Cy of rain,snow,leaves and sticks from broken branches. As well, the sights of the rifle will serape on the leather as the gun is withdrawn, This is especially undesireable for telescope sichts! Back Rigging Entra Gantle dee Sone of the offset pull of the rifle (to the right side) can be achieved by run- ning the strap through the extra cantle Gee (thie prevents backward movement) , over the jeckoys,and through the rigging ing on the opposite side as shown above in the sketch. Pull up smug and buckle.hie scabbard can be fon either of the saddle. NOE: The pattern here fo for = 20" barcer: Lenathen pattern accordingly for longer barrels. DFSIGN: Craftool Basket Stamp No.X8% is is the simpleat of all rifle acabbards to make. Slote are punched in the sides for the straps. The leather is folded over and sewn together. A filler leather (at stitched edge) was not used. many of the old-timers did not use a safety strap. However, without one, the rifle is subject to slipping out of the scabbard when a horse is jumping @ 16g oF lunging up a steep bank. cut the scabbard from l0oz- to 1doz. cowhide. rf it is to be Lined, then cut Lt crom 7/d0z. Leather. an end plea chould be Used (seo page 70 for examples). Coment the edges together, install the end plug and sew. Burnish the edge. Install a No.9 copper rivet where the stitching begins. This secures stitching. SAFETY STRAP Cut the Safety Strap from 6/702. cow- hide. You cannot determine the length Since the prongs of the Lift-the-pot posts aren't until the posts have been installed long enough to properly clinch in thick leather, on the scabbard, Install Lift-the-Dot they have to be mounted on boat 6/lo2. Leather. eyelets on each end of the strap. Be his is glued to the seabbard and som,By attach- sure you have the *DOT* in the proper ing a post on each side,the Safety Sirap ia easi- place...towarde the end of the strap. ly released vhen gun is on either side of saddle. T ae t i (Feely ‘tive testi of Sap TC center Line..-£old here to conplete the other 1/2 of the pattere }—__--_-—__—_— 1/2 PATTERN for 30-30 Winchester CARBINE. LEVER-ACTION, 20° barre] “ Total Length = 30" osThis scabbard shows a aif- ferent closure that ofrers more protection, and less chance of accidental loss of the gun. The pattern is for carrying the scabbard on the left side of the saddle,..with the butt to the rear. Reverse for car- tying on the right side. See page 69 for "| king the straps stitching Noisten / Fold This edge sew te scabbard LEVER-ACTION RIFLE SCABBARD| These scabbards were carved on the rough (flesh) side of the leather. they were cut from 1/ Boz. cowhide; lined with 4oz. latigo leather. cat out the scabbards Stamp the design. cut Vining leather oversize... and cement in place. Sew around the edge, indicated Trim off excess bottom edges together for a temporary hold. Fold the Plap (A) up and glue it in place (left). Pind the 1lo~ cation from the pattern. at eight. aan Lining. --burniah edge be- ey tween the rivet holes. n- js stall Durable Dot snaps in \3 their proper positions. De not cut \ slots tn Ve [2] Fold the acabbard to- sup cy 8 gether and tack the esate a : Se Position of Rivet agin stitching bere Now remove the tacks so the scabbard can open up, allowing access for se¥ing the remaining edge of Flap (A). Begin sewing where you ended in step |, and sew down to the rivet position, the end of Flap (A) sews to the scabbard, as indicated, You will have to reach one hand inside the scabbard to accosplish the sewing.i 5 : i dle. Reverse pattern for right side. 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Stoblnan-made saddle below with extra Carving Designt SES @ wise We designed this scabbard in 1972 when we went on our first moose hunt on horseback, into some wild country. I am no John Wayne when it comes to disnounting From a running horse and withdrawing my rifle at the same time. I wanted my gun on the near side (the same side where you dismount). If the scope was up, then the bolt would be rubbing on the horsesnot practical! So we came up with this design. The End Cap was added to keep rain, snow, and falling leaves off the eye— piece of the scope, When riding under snow- hie io Ann Sxohimn'e personal scatbard for hee Sim BRNO Your first glance at the photos a~ bove, and at left, will have you thinking this is not a proper vay to carry the rifle, as the scope is riding against the leather be~ low it. WOT 90! The Security Strap eightly holes the rifle stock up So the scope 1a clear, ot touch ing the Leather. This scabbard al~ lows the hunver to carry his bolt- action seope-nbunted rifle on the Sane side of the forse where ne, or she, usually disnounts. Thin makes for quick action...as seen in the sketch at left. When you are free of the stirrup, your left hand pulls dovn on the Jeck- Strap (1) which releases the Secu- rity Strap (2). At the sane tine, the End Cap (3) falls down out of the way aa you are cimultaneoualy withdrawing the rifle (4), It all happens in one fluid motion. Your horse may continue to move, ..as is often the case when you are hurry- ing, and he will actually pull the scabbard off of the rifle, making the withdrawal even faster! laden trees, it worked beautifully. We had a very successful trip. Hunting for moose in wilderness country without pack horses is not desireable, unless you are young and strong. Since our first design we have cus- tom-made many more of these seabbards for hunter friends and ranchers.thoy have with: stood the test very vell in spite of all of the rough use and incleneat weather. 80, ve offer this scabbard to you. It is not easy to make, but we feel you can be successful if you folloy our instructions, 48 SPINE CONE & WILO BERRY: "Inverted Leather Carving!SCABBARD — Continued ‘the first things you Will need to nold the FORMING CORE (above) et ‘scope area,,.are the parts shown at left. FORMING BOX (below) Place the gun on the core piece and mark around it as shown at left. (A) Is outline of trigger guard and stock. (B) Position of bolt. (c) the end of scope. NOME: These warks will very with aitferent rifles, Our core & box are ctude~ ly built, but. served the purpose. We have wade many. ‘seabbards Plans and instructions for building these units are on page 50. with these fom. 1 | Make the pattern (below) on heavy paper. ‘This add 13" for Will be big enough for most rifles. add to the bolt fhe pattern (right) for bolt action rifles. Te in better to have ample leather than noe enough. the average Length for big rifles: cut Leather about 36° Rea Ss of pattern: Ora ths ct From the straight line, to Form the pattern This vill be the outside ef the scabbard Straight Line aaa 4 Drive the hans weeFul in the pat tect Eee soak it thoroughly in important for better forming results, Fold the leather and place eto oo to level the bottom leather should be ex- ‘of the Forming Box tended, as in sketch. bolt Leather Nomner extended here Force the leather down into the scope area as far as you can with your hands. Then hammer the area at the scope end to stretch it as mich as possible. Tap along the barrel length to set the leather down, (continued) 9WAKING the FORMING BOX and the FORMING CORE — for SCOPE SCABGARDS Make the Forming Box to the dimensions shown The FORMING BOX and with the materials a 1 . Sa | ——f sive view \ Glue and nail or screw together Line the Box with 7/802. couhide to make a smooth interior. Nail it to the edges of the Box. The botton should be curved ag shown in end views (solid black). The FORMING CORE sotpe Sams 14/1002. cowhide. Skive to taper at the barrel end Nake the Core to the dimensions shown and with the materials suggested. Glue leather over the scope area as shown. Use planes, rasps, chisels, an knives or whatever is rs Akio Solon quired to shape the Cor Make all tapers toward barrel end suygestel It doesn't matter how rough the Core is shaped or what fill-in shearites materials are used, ax long as they match the suggested dimensions, Nit th [abn 50any wet leather to ‘SCOPE SCABBARD = Continued ‘areas with’ necessary Beno Tnoide the Jesther Push itp against the scope end...that was hammered down in step 3. Lay the unit on your bench and clasp it together as il- lustrated at left, Turn screwo in as far you can, Leave the pro- Ject until the mext dey, as it vill tate a wnile for it to begin drying, the Block Slope this edae CROSS SECTION 3s stow Part of mark Angle oF From top view rail holes This Block is necessary to form the leather for the bolt. It will be used in different positions for different rifies. Position of bolt, on Bolt Black Forming Gore we Marks Froe photo: on page 49) Remove the clamps (step 4) and the Forming Core from the leather. Align the position of the bolt (on Bolt Block) directly over the position of the bolt mark on the form ing Core and nail in place as shown above. (continued) 51‘SCOPE SCABBARD — Continued Remove the leather from the Forming Box and Use the sane procedure with the Saddler'e replace the Forming Core. Begin shaping a- hammer at the sharp fold. Best resulte axe round the Bolt Block. Start with a Cobblers achieved vnen tne seatner is in the optimn hamuer, using a protective piece of leather Cased Condition. You will only learn this Underneath: If the leather in drying much through experience. The Dore Folder can al- too fast, add more moisture with a sponge. no be tized to form arourd the Bolt Block. f amt & Sg alee he ” \ Sprang ] ater vorains pees see ing Core and put the rifle in the ‘scabbard.Push it forward £0 that the Eront of the scope will just touch the Leath- fer at the bulge. Shaded ares represents Begin cut 1A) Following the contour of the stock. curve in at bolt (B) then back out to make cut (C).S»e photo. Continue cutting down the back side. cuts (Cc) should be parallel, Cut (D) parallel to the stock (h* lower) for about 2". Complete cut (B) back to beginning of (A). Round After cutting (step 8), ceim the Leathers at the bottom. Be- Q| gin at ene eeigger guara. ALiow at least 14". me renainder CARVING @ DESIGN? of the cut should parallel the gun vith a pleasing line, but If you are going to carve a Must have ample clearance. If a shoulder strap 1s to be in- design, check the moisture cluded with the gun, then increase the neasurements to make content. Add woisture where Allowance for it. Wipe gun with an oily cloth upon removing. required. Put the seabbard ina plastic bag urtil you are ready to carve and stamp. Once the Leather has dried out it vill 52 be difficult to got mcisture properly back in. Cutking € stamping may not be as deep as desiveligtare content at all times. When you see ar~ eas drying out, contin= ually add moisture. ‘The pattern for this design was created from segaents of the patterns shown in our book: "Inverted Leather Carving". First, draw in the scroll lines then add the leaves and berries. ‘The moose was stamped inverted. See "Figure Carving Finesse" for details on carving hunéreds of animals, birds, etc. The photo above shows the Forming Core in place while the tracing transformation is taking place. While the Core is in place, cut the flat side of the scabbard pattern, We will get to the curved areas at the top of the scope bulge and the barrel, later. After cutting the pattern on the side of the scabbard, remove the Forming Core and spread the scabbard apart. Put the side to be stamped on the edge of your marble as shown at right and begin stamping the pat- tern. Stamp a section at a time, keeping the remaining leather wrapped in plastic to pre~ vent moisture loss. (continued) "TRACING the DESTON Make the racing Pattern on a large sheet of paper and cut it to the sane size as the leatn- er cuts in steps 8 and 9, Tf you want a full carving you will have to make the pattern as in tthe photo, ..to fit over the scope and barrel areas. Holé the pattern firmly in place while you trace the design.54 alee cut the rounded areas over the barrel ane scope, replace the forming Core back in the scabbard and stand it on your bench as shown above. The photo clearly shows the thick- ness of the leather (160z.). [is] Forning Core is also necessary to stamp rounded Barrel and scope aceac (right). Some areas will require your stamping hand (holding tool) to simultaneously press against the leather to steady the unit. You may want to enlist the aid of a friend to steady the unit. The scabbard can be layed down on its back to stamp the for- ward areas of the scope bulge. Stamp against the forming Core. You'll notice that the bolt ar~ ea has been stamped (see photo, page 48). This is accomplished by stamping directly on top of the Bolt Block. SCOPE SCABBARD - Continued After completing the stamping, dye design if you wish. Do not \ apply any finish on the leather yet, not until the scabbard has been completed. cutting ane stamping o- ver rounded surfaces is nat so dif= ficult, but it requices the concen- tration and patience to achieve the desired ce- sults.Burnish thet (COPE SCABBARD ~ Continued Seutay. Serkink Me. Cut a piece of 7/Boz. shonat [#] cowhide to the shape show at lett. Burnish the edges; gouge seving chan- nels. Install twp Posts of the Lift-the-tot snaps ar indicated, These must be fontened to Lighser weight Yeates aa the prongs ace nt. Long enough to clinch After installing the Properly in the thickness snaps,glue the piece of the skirting leather. to scabbard (shaded THs overlay piece would area) and sew to the be a good place to stamp End sewing 1/4" From edge scabbard. the Serial No, of the gin, > PLO Se vite aan owe ET a (Ora amoabiy. are [15] vcevare two pee Assenblies as shown at Assemblies te the etch allow to, dy. tow Jeft. If you don't have any heavy raw- cut fillers from 14/1601. covhide 3/4” wide hide (bullhide) then use two layers of less to fit in the areas (above). Glue fillers thickness. Soak in water. The tabs should and dees in place...folloving in sequence: be cut a bit wider than the dee as the raw- Steps A, B, C, D, &, Carefully align edges. hide will shrink when drying, Tack the dee — the base of the dees should be at the edge. Sewing ends. ard begins at rivets Wo. Copper Rivets DETAIL at DEBS Continue with the project in the following sequence: 1 - Glue the Front edge down to the fillers and dees. 2 - Glue End Plug in place. 3 ~ Drill holes for rivets ond rivet dees and corner. 4 ~ Gouge the sewing channels on both sides, 1/4" fron edges. Push a voard, 1h" thick, inside the scabbard at the scope area. This protects the scope bilge when clamped in the stitching horse. Use a 3/4* thick board inside, when sewing dow the bacrel. Sew the scabbard together. Burnish the edge. 55SCOPE SCABI Continued MAKING the SECURITY STRAP Paper pattern fitted over the canoe ne Liftthe Dat Pets - to pe adjusted up or Wold stock up tight against the seaboard Ae where the pattern must: be increased aoe leapt coisa opening bolt opening. pattern snugly it on the pattern ‘stock ‘Lift-the-Dot a 4 SECURITY STRAP 8/902. cowhide =(nevuns 8128) P| Place the rifle in the scabbara ana comply with all of the notations above. / this ar. bolt opening and will require Alterations for ‘every scabbard. Che paper folded up. Be sure rifle is still pulled up tight. Measure up, from the stock, for the cut-off point. Norm: this ic on approsinate pattecn only! Check te v4 see Lf any - alterations in the pattern Lines ~ may be necessary sip aya se < hqao sass teach scabbard vill vary from cone to the other Purch 1/2 holes, centered ‘over holes in the pattern Bolt Wo too vill ever be tho oane! Flesh side: one furnish the Cut this pattern ‘edges show out of heavy in heavy black Line paper and follow the instructions - to arrive at the 4 lun hy correct cutting around the holes. Sacre fcr aeae scabbard. If all is in order, cut the pattern from 8/902. cowhide. Punch holes and burnish edges indicated. The Bolt o- pening Cover will be finished later, when the leather is fitted in place. Skive around the holes to remove o- ver half the thickness at the open~ inge, otherwise the snaps cannot en— 56 gage. Use a French 8dge Tool. ‘this will be the outside of the pattern[bee nssemocy | Uc Ride He skive ands of Tabs Prepare a Dee Assembly as above Lift-the-Dot Shield leather cut the Lift-the-bet Shield leather from 6/ oz. cowhide. Trim tne top ana sices co tne contours of the Security Strap. also, punch 72" holes Le match the strap. Burnich the edges. Install two eyelets with the "DOvs* at the top. The eyelets must be equal, in distance, to the spread of the posts. Gouge Seving channel. Glue the Dee Assembly be- tween the Bhieid and the Security strap. and sew together an illustrated above. Scribe around end of Security Strap ea Snap the Security Strap back in place, and fold tightly around the stock again,..(as in step 18). Hold firmly in place and scribe a line around the end to be sewn, am shown in the sketch above. Unsnap the unit and ce- nove the rifle. Now glue the end of the Security Strap in place, and sew to the scabbard (right). continued on page 58 ‘SCOPE SCABBARD - Continued Mark the bolt cover where it protrudes over ‘the seabbard Moistin wll, and fold out Now enap the eyelets to the posts and fold Ene secur ley Strap Lishlty aiund the cifle Stock (aa in step 17). With the bole cover now againgt the bolt opening of the scan- bard, mark any areas extending outsice of the Contours of the bolt opening that will require trimming (see above). If catistied, Unsnap the unit and make any trlaming neo™ seeary on the bolt cover. Platten leather out and burnish the belt cover edaes. Le This side at the tolt opening > CARDBOARD TEMPLATE for the END CAP (ACTUAL Sze} Pesiaake Make a cardboard template from this pattern. This is the End Cap for the scope opening of the scabbard. Carefully observe the in- structions to follow. ‘This is the outside | of the pattern 7Put a mark on each side of scabbard, at top edge of template Fits against the gun stock here Outside of pattern [EE] sate tie senctase (ones 071, Ht ie wo a tent alte steee soe alee ae Remove the cardboard. on the reverse side. Now draw a line (5) eutaide of Line (A) to equal the thickness of 9/1002. cowhide. Trim the Template on line (B)- turn the Template over and make a new pattern as shown at right. Cut this out of leather and gouge and skive a instructed. Burnish che top edges shown in heavy black. Gouge sewing chan nel around edge (B) and bevel for miter joint. bine (a) will show These marks were put on scabbard, at top of template (step 24) Cut leather ta weap around the scope area and J Oran along fit at the edge of these marks tthe seabbard to mark the leather strip Cut a strip of leather from 9/1002. cowhide 14" Wide. Fold around the scabbard and trim the ends as indicated above. Hold firmly in place and mark the leather as shown. Trin off on line COPE SCABBARD — Conti to the pattern ret Skive aut about or 42 thickness Cut oat of the Leather TiReHAL Sra ‘Thickness of 9/1002. cowhide Line fron step 24 ‘Cut on this Line: sve) for eter, Gut this "ans fora Tite style BS coun Leather Renoye the eater, | Trim on the iine.me | trip will cesmmle | the sketch, Trimthe | ' ends. Gouge 2 seving channel. ..bevel for the miter joint. burnish this edgeWot the gouge and ton Fold shape shown Pe Tongue tits against cifle stock Put the gun back in the scabbard, = of the col- ’ Cement the mitered edges Pit the End Cap in place, push up lar and End Cap together...and sew. eet and snap Security strap in place. Bage/bi er joint. Shay Br ec ba tee. Wey ac a sete ‘This holds the tongue against the Bend e tenner Get on tte tr 7/60 ides maven ore ieatrena de espe Grom: <(90, tesehes Sri can Hames Or 2705 hier MAC oY eoabbarelsaid mach Fifer ly, Sar = ove gun and rivet the cap-ateap to tne scabberd. BO] = comrere tne scarpara, install the Jork-secap as shomn. Cut it about 7" long by I" wide,tapering to 5/8" at the dee, Cut it from 8/8 a ee TE the grain side of Secur- ity Strap is out,install ae shown. Reverse if the flesh side is out. Grain side (or Mesh side...if preferred) Pollow all previous instructions for making this Carving designs fare the choice of the customer and the maker. ‘The scabbard below was made for a .22 rifle. Fastener Construction is the sane, except it has no End Cap and the Security Strap is narrower with only one fastener. —toeron Security Stevp end ty 59Bolt o slot Set for Safety Strap Safety ee Strap for straps.exictly as shown in (B), page 4, MCASES — YoL.T® Ann Stohinan's personal Saddle and gun scabbara. flesh side (rough-out). This scabbard was designed to be carried by hand or on the saddle. ‘The Butt Cover gives the gun full protec- tion. A Safety Strap holds it in place and also serves as a cover for the bolt. It was wetted and formed over the bolt, then trinmed for the strap. The stitching on the Handle Shield anchors the Safety strap in place. With the extra dees on page 43,you can see the scabbard ean be carried very high. 60 ‘ONE-PIECE ‘This one-piece seabbard is formed ox- actly as the previous ones. However, instead of forming for the bolt, sim- ply cut out for it (left). the Safety Strap is installed as shown so it can fall out of the way when unsnapped. ‘The inside of the scabbard should be gouged out above the slot to accomo- Sate the strap so it lays flush. The Snap post can be installed in heavy leather by gouging out a circle to recess the backplate (right). Glue a thin piece of leather over the plate. PE SCABBARD - with BUTT COVER OAK Leaves, SELHOUTTE CARVING: Minverted Leather Carving’, ONE-PIECE SCOPE SCABBARD - without END CAP ‘is scabbard is for carrying on the right side of the horse... butt to the rear.SCOPE SCABBARD - Continued The Butt Cover cannot be made until the seabbard has been completed. The hneasurements shown are approximate, as Use 16/2002. Filler at bottom edge 15%" 9/1002, cowhide <(Upproninate size) Tri for bolt-—7 Filler Check your fitting again...and cut the proper width and length. Allow room for the End Plug. Cement the filler and End Plug in place, and sew. See page 70 for instructions on sewing End Plugs. The top handle Leather folda acound the rings. Lining leather the skived ends of the fold: tween the leathers, gun and Scabbard will vary in size and shape. covers Add a filler be~ straps when hard carrying Shields and Tabs wor Slot here Ts Dip at top i fake te : End Plug f tuo thicknesses of skirting Leather Cut the leather oversize in length & width. Cut the front as shown; burnish the edge. Fold the point down; cenent in place. this makes a dip at the top. Sev; add a rivet at skived edge. Now fit this over the scabbard (with gun inside) and you can determine the cutting dimensions for width and length. Allow room for the filler. Trim out for the bolt to slide the cover focwerd, Strap/bolt leather as above. It is shaped before it is sewn to the scabbard. Case it 7 for best results. Form a- round the bolt with Bone Polder. Allow to dry, then make any trimming necessary and burnish edges. When the cover ic fitted in Place, you can locate positions of snaps.nis scabbara is for careying on the right Side of the horse with che butt to the rear. If you don't vant the one-piece con- struction (previous scabbards), make enter Line 0 it as instructed belov. the leather aria is divided at tte barrel. Kon sem 4_ together, this forms the scope area Panne eet > ae “1% enter Line of barrel -30.06 rifle pant ea cna =e ae Bushnell Lf * ix esente os the outline of the pattern asin ame earrs ef your seahbard er gun om Mere is a definite FORMULA ror determining the cimensions ‘The explanation of thie FORMULA besina on page 64. Measure ments above are taken from this FORMULA. ‘The pattern below is sade specifically for the Tifle and scope shown above. The barrel is 24" long. ‘This pattern will fit most rifles of this size and caliber. However, if you are in doubt concerning your own gun, read the FOR- MULA instructions and you will oee if modifications are required on the pattern shown be- low. ‘The FORMULA applies to all rifles and shotguns. NOTE: (his scatbard i= made of skirt ing leather which is much thicker than the leathers used on the gun cases on pages 61 to 17, therefore, the measurements below the trigger guard and the stock are usually increas ea by 1/4" Eo compensate tor the lesser interior space, due to the thickness of the heavi- er leather when folded. Always cut the Leather oversize... it can aluaya be trismed down! Install loops, for straps, exactly «x - shown in (C), page 4, "CASES - Voli" Flesh side of scabbacd up peregrine ‘Turn the leather to I { Each square EL i | Fete i oe ide, and [2] From the graph above, you can make the camplete pattern. Make mate gouges as sug- the full size pattern on heavy paper and cut out for the bolt, gested above. make Be sure it is in the proper position. Mark the positions of deep gouges at the the loops for the saddle straps. Cut out the seabbard. make scope atca, to make the loops as above; sew them in place. Or...eut slots in the forming easier. See 62 leather as on page 45, or install loops as on page 60. step 3.3] ‘Thoroughly vet the leather a round the gouged areas...and down the barrel length (both sides). Force the leather in as shown at left. Use divid~ ers to mark sewing holes, and space them 3/16" apart. Use a heavy linen sewing thread and wax it. Sew the seabbard to- gether as shown at right. The t att ya yether. t edges butt together. Pull the i cage stitches tight, Tap with ham- Aogether mer to lay them down flat. Gut the tap to Fit the curve within Gut the leather fron 7/802. cow hide to fie over the stitches (From btep 2) ae shown at Fight. Burnish the edges. Gouge sewing channels, and glue in place. Sew all arouno, to within 1/4" of the end. You will have to reach one hand in- Bide the scabbard to sew this strip. Thstall the Safety strap sane as page 60. Wet the Leather on the Flesh side at barcel and scope area, Form the leather down 50 bottom edges come together. Glue a filler at bottom, Add the tnd ; Plug and sew scebbaré together. Rigging Install a rivet as indicated. Ring of saddle Bridle Buckle Roller Guskle ‘he straps are usually cut SLIDE LOOP 3/4" wide. Cut from 7/Boz. Regardless of which type of saddle scab— bard you have, slide loops should be used as illustrated above. The loops hold the straps together and make a sturdy attach~ ment. Also, it lessons chances of aticks or branches snagging between the straps- cowhide for Lasting service. The length of the straps will vary, depending on the po- sition of the scabbard and vhere it is at~ tached to the saddle. You will have to make these determinations by fitting to sadile. MAKING LOOPS: ee page ¥, TCHSHE VOLT 3ZIPPERED RIFLE CASE — for LEVER-ACTION and AUTOMATIC RIFLES ee © Weinforcing Leather (options) made for Winchester santa ne8. Carbine Model 94 20" barrel shoulder sing & bes (optional) ‘the case we show here, and on the following forcing piece for the handle gives added pages, is made of lightweight leathers as support and facilitates transportation, the they are not intended to be used for horse- body of the case is made from 4/So2. to 5/6 back transportation. The zipper closure al- oz. leather, A wide variety of leathers can lows easy access to your aun and gives full he used. O11-Hannod leather would bo ideal. protection. The shoulder sling and the han- ‘The bottom is reinforced with a filler thas Gle unit are optional features. The rein- is optional, but required for the sling. is the thickest part of the rifle From here ta the end of the barrel ex half of a large shect of heavy paper. To determine the center of the pattern (fold Line), the FORMULA begins as follows: measure the thickest part of the gun..,here, 14" (see above). ‘Take 1/2 of this, which equals 5/8", tow add 1/8" to thio which will equal 3/4". This will insure ample leather (on center line), where it will fold over the thickest pact of the gun. Put a mark here, ov the paper. Neos ure up 3/8" above the front sight. Now draw a straight line on these two marks, shown with @ broken line above. this will be the center line (fold) of the pattem. Draw flowing '6—@) Center of Gravity lines fond 9 =the =a the corners a The first step in making a pattern is to place your gun on the low- thle From the center Line,draw down 1/4* (A) just behind the hammer (lerer-action) of just’ be- hind the bolt (bolt-action). This will be where the zipper ends, Fron here, draw a line to (B) mostly paralleling the stock. continue eroind to (c) and (2) as shown. Since the sipper will add 1/2" to these areas, the dimnsions are ample for the gun butt within the case. Allow at Least 3/4™ under the lever (3), and 24" ahead of the trigger guard (Ff), Allow 14" at end of forearm stock (G), anda {ull 1* (i), Add 7/8" at end of barrel (1). Mark the center of gravity (A) on the pattern. This is predetermined by balancing the gun on a 14" wide board. This mark determines the center Position of the handle (if used). Now draw a flowing Line fron (D) through to (1) as 64. shown above. You have now completed 1/2 of the pattern outline. (continued)ZIPPERED CASE - Continued Dotted 1198 Cia indicatsn e Position of dees Af Shoulder Sling is used 1 {s] Put a mark on the pattern at botton, for the other end of \ b the zipper. If you are going to inclule a shoulder sling, G6" dees will have to be installed in the case. Mark these positions on the pattern. The dee (at butt) fits next to the zipper end. The other dee is usually placed at the end of the forearn stock, regardless of the barrel length. Observe notations above. Zipper lansth te () te (8) Oitlaen for andi Reinforcing Place If a handle is to be used, a reinforcing leather should be used also. Tt can be cut to any shape desired as shom by solid Line (k) above. The leather should extend an equal distance on each ide of the center of gf {ty mark. This 15 usually about 8" at the top. Draw these lines on your pattern. 0 6 plate the pattern, fold on the center line and transfer all previous lines and marks to the other 1/2 of the paper. Cut out the pattern. make a separate pattern for handle piece. Lightly mark position of tardle Pisce on grain (outside) of the leather mark be contr poabthan ap / Mark Locations of zipper ends on Flesh (inside) Dee location HANDLE PIECE leather (s) suggested on Cut from 6/702. page 64. Lighter weight leathers can be used if cowhide, if you they are not prone to excessive stretch. Observe wish to carvea all notations above, Cut out the handle piece. design on it. 6ZIPPERED CASE - Continued a— Tipper Tene age of Sewing coment edge of case channel caso leather ‘ Jeatner incase 1/8" fron the Begin. genenting leather ‘aipper zipper in case at the Top Stops Zipper Pull Zipper Teeth Lipper ‘te DO NOT sew zipper yet if the case is to be lined. See page 73 Prepare a heavy zipper of proper length. Pull teeth apart and install the Top Stops to each tape. transfer marks, from step 2, Rightly to the cutside of the case. ime sip: per tecth end at this mark (above). Cenent the zipper to the case as instructed above- Observe ell of the anrota- tions. bo HOP install the Bottom Stop! Sew in place. End of toath—A If you have ac- cess to a heavy duty sewing ma~ chine...use tte he handle can be attached to the Reinforcing Piece in a number of ways. Here we have cut two strips Of leather 34" long. Run through the dees and sew. ada rivets tor extra strength, at each cide. End seving channels 1/4" ————>~ from the edges tnd Seving Cut leather fa fe wider a the the « sides to ine ure ewverage on the ease End sewing at ‘ond rippar tavth PREPARING the SHOULDER SLING DEES Prepare two 7/8" dees as shown at right. Cut straps From 1/8oz. cow- hide. Moisten and Fold around dees; glue together and trim ends to the measurement given at right. | ——End tooth Complete sewing in the zipper. Do net sew beyond the last zip- per tooth; end stitches at the mark from step 3. Now cement the Handle Assembly in place. Trim both sides flush with the edges of the case, if necessary. Gouge sewing channels and sew, as indicated on the drawing. 2/0" SOLID Dee RDGE VIEW 66Draw a Line ys! row Shoulder Sling | dep here Mark Fer Shoulder Sling dees. See the pattern for Lucations Se turn the cave aver so the inside is np. Pit marks on the edge as shown above (one edge only). 00 AP join zipper yet! Shaded ares shows =} * arks from fo FILLER LEATHER 4'—*\ cut from saddle skirting. ..about 1/4" thick (1602. or laminate lighter leathers to build to thie thickness. Snes Eayes of A filler Leather should be used at the edge of the case so it eh Wecis will be more rigid. When the zipper teeth are engaged, the sap ace one between the edges of the case Leather is sboit 1/2" (shown at left). Phorefore, the end of the filler leather [next to the zipper} must be built up to equal thie thickness. A 4* piece of saddle skirting is added here to build up the thickness at (X). See the edge view above. If the shoulder cling is not used...the filler leather is left in one piece. Tt is cemented inside the case ax in- dicated above. The double-thickness end butts against the zipper teeth atter the tape has been folded back. The other end of the filler should cut off at the natk at end of case, hai oe os z EDGE, VIEN = Actual Size i Pit the Dee Unit in the When the shoulder sling is used, the double filler notch. Check to see if it must be cut out to accomodate the equal thickness still measures 1/2". If alright, of the dee leathers, Notch the fillers with a glue the dee between the fillers. shacp knife (on flesh side) before gluing. 67ZIPPERED CASE — Continued Faller. Edges of the case. Lipper Pull See (A) - (B) above; belov. Fold the case over on the center Line. Prepare the dees and leath- ers as shown in the sketch below. Fold the case together. Hola Push the prongs of the Carefally turn the case o- the zipper tapes against each Bottom Stop through the ver and place on the bench. other and run the #ipper Pull tape at the last teeth. Spread the case open and up the ends of the Lape to en— Hold tape securely, 80 clinch the prongs (inward) gage the teeth. the teeth won't part. ‘on a netal surface, — SPECIAL Nove: Stops. If they are not nearly aligned, gage the teeth...until the Top Stops are Botton Stop Push ends: of Zipper Tape up Rubber Cement (see text below) After clinching the Bottom Stop (step 15), open the bottom of the case and fold the ends of the zipper tape up. Apply rub- ber cenent to the ends of the tape. Also, cement the end and underside of the filler, and along the bottom edge, inside the case. After engaging the zipper teeth with the Pull (step 13), run the Pull all the way up to the Top Stops. This closes the butt end of the case. Check the Top then run the Pull back to the botton and remove it. Adjust the bottom testh (in the way they overlap) and again en- together. then install Botton stop, End of stitching, ate Spread the case open as far as possible (at the Bottom Stop) and begin achering che bee and Filler Assembly in place. Porce it up tight against the Rotton stop (above). Now reach inside the case (from butt) and ad- here the zipper tape to the end of filler,ZIPPERED CASE — Continued Follow ee aan here... if it is [BB] actor bssionsns so snetaltation of the fitter (step 171, comin it fli sequence: Adhere along the edge (A) and (B) and cut off at the dee position. Adhere the Dee OMe (o)- adhere the comatndng Eiller (a), Mish Light ts dae lotr) até te atk Top with harmer all along edge to insure good bonding See page 70 for several suthods af saking and installing E04 Pluge mign all edges: Now apply coment te the top side of the filler and to the inside of the other edie of the case. Lay the top edge down and adhere it to the filler. Glue the end plug in. ue with rivets See page 71 for making the Should~ er Sling. ‘The long zippered opening permite casy accose for insertion and withdrawal of the rifle. the handle also assists, as illustrated above. 6MAKING and INSTALLING the END PLUGS: Thickness Filler leather of Filler Butt to Filler end Flush with case ‘This plua is made from 16oz. skirting leather (1/4* in thickness). The core is cut 1* wide and a bit lon than needed. It must be the same thickness as the filler. The top rounded with an Edge Heveler- Cut a second piece to fold around the core. Shive beth enda toe feather. The shived enda (when glued to the core) should be about midvay at the filler width, see (A) & (a) above. (C) Now qlue the plug in place with about 1/4* extended. It Should fit tightly inside the cage. The core mast Fit tight against tne Eiller end. (b) ‘Prim Off the excess plug. (#) Gouge sewing chan- nels oround both sides, about 1/4" from the edge. (F) Sew togethe: You will need @ heavy awl, am you must sew through the total thio ness. NOTE: When sewing through the plus, do not pry it back & forth trying to bit the opposite channel or you may break the blade. keep it sharp! Make stabs with a straight push on the awl blade. Goup sewing eamels Open end of 1 1 Ede Sewing Edge case ot barrel 4-3/4} Views channel View \ 1 Gross-section interior view of case Filler curve of case Irie te fit against Filler METHOD No.2) This plug 1s also made from 160%, skirting leather. it is a bit more difficult to fit in the case, but once in- stalled is easier to sew. The shape of the plug will resemble sketch (a). Cut it longer than required at the bottom...which should be the same thickness as the filler. (B) Shows how you trim and fit it to the case, (C) When properly fitted, gouge the sewing channel. (D) Now cut a second leather and glue it to the first, with the proper curve. Clue it in place (8). (P) Sew as with the miter joint. See the instructions for sewing in this plug on page 11 of "How to Make Holsters* 70 Stould be a ( tight Fie Totton butte against FlllerCross-section This is the same as Method interior view No.2...except that the end of care + of the case is cut square, not rounded. This makes the forming and installing of Filler. the plug much simpler.the filler will extend closer to the end unless 3 thick~ nesses of plug leather are used. Sew the plug as in step (F) of Method No.2. Double thickness MAKING the SHOULDER SLING Space holes 2M apart This sling is simple to make and easy to assemble. cut the strap from 7/802. cowhide, 3/4" wide and about 35" long. Te Lengen will Vary depending on the distance between the dees on your case. You Will have to cut it aven longer if the sling is carried to the oo- posite shoulder, across the chest. Punch No.5 holes as indicated. the snaps to the plain end of the strap (right), Round the other end. etme carry the case with the barrel up or down. make a Slide Loop fron 6/7oz. cowhide. Begin asvenbly ao fol- Run strap through Conway ,Loop,and snap as shown abow back thzough Loop and up inside the buckle.Pit the end hole over the Convay past. Pull strap up for access be post Pull the strap dovn so one of the boles fits over the post. ‘Adjust the straps to lay flat. This puts the snap at the fold, Force the loop up close to the snap. "to make longer or shorter adjustments, pull the loop away from the snap. Put the strap in a different hole...then repeat as above, 3/4" SWIVEL SNAP (two required)ZIPPERED CASE - for BOLT-ACTION RIFLES. Nanete 40-6 ~ $5" 109g two-handle assembly with Dees & Shields. f Carving Gesignt ‘This case is made of the sane leathers as suggested on page 64. No shoulder sling dees. a ais the parr This pattern is made by using the same "FORMULA" as on page 64. LB) Bente Line rams ye" "FORMULA From here to the end of the barrel A) previous: patterns Zo extended h 4/08 vil beaded to this same as pattern iw ts acomodte the on page 72 welted sean Draw line (A) down as shown. Dinen- sions from (B) through (1) will be the same as those in step 2,page 64. Extend the pattern for the bolt as on page 72. Complete the 1/2 pattern by drawing a curved line (at the scope) to connect the center lines. ‘The qraph at right shows the actual curve. This is the sane curve as for the scabbard on page 62. However... 1/4" must be added at the curve and along all of the barrel length for the welted seam. 4 “GRIZZLY BEAR: “Figure Carving Finesse" SOAP ISTE ie eRFirst center 1ine SESE! noe Plece pattern 45 indicated, avoiding the bolt and intringe- nent on the extended area (ex- plained in step 2, page 12), At the top of the Handle Piece; it is not equal on both sides of the center of gravity. This is because we want to cover the scope, diving it more protection. Also, Lt is cut longer at the bottom tern here because the assenbly steps differ due to the welt consteuction. Ext complete the pattern and 4/502. leather cut out the tated ae No-7 punch ember to add 1/4 here, to the selted area Punch a hole (tor LA the weit) ona cut After cutting out leet. the case, sew in the zip- per. Punch a hole, at the front of the scope, and cut oat as shovn (eight). Turn the case with the inside up. Scribe a Line around scope and barrel area. "wheel" on one side only, Wheel sarks, step 5 bf {| Gverstitch i .) y heel \ welt Soribe a guide ine about 1" fron the edges Make a wolt. Pold the case on the center, and fit the welt in place. Wel frow step 4 [7] Place a tack in the first wheel mark to secure the end of the welt. The welt can be cemented, but tacks insure positive position of the welt, especially if oil-tanned leathers are used. Align adges Hand Clinching Shoe Block Tack ACTUAL SIZE Clamp in stitching horse and Sew the welt in place. aPTPPERED CASE — Continua See page 78 in "the Art of MAKING LEATHER CASES", Yol.140, for the proper methed of trimaing velts. After sewing the welt, tap the stitches Flat. Tin the welt. foisten the welted area and tap with a hammer as shown stove. ¥ou will have to work over the edge of your bench to tap at the scope area. [10] sev the bandies to the Reinforcing Piece. since the scope area cannot lay flat,cementina the Handle Assembly to the ase is more difficult. Lay a Lensth of 2x6" lumber on the bench; top edge rounded. Place the scope area on tnis board, and begin cementing at ue Lop lacge arrows Gt Left). Do not coment the eideo, yet~ [ia] Now lay the case on the bench edge and apply cement where the side will adher Use wax paper if nee~ essary to prevent pre- mature adhesion. When in place, use a hammer to tap and secure. Re- peat with the opposite side. Trim off excess leather flush with the edge of the case. Now, gouge sewing channels. Sew the Handle Ai bly to within 1/4" of the edge of the case, as instructed in step 8, page 66. Complete the case now by adding the filler and the end plug. Follow all previous instructions for riveting,sev- ing, etc. NOTE: A special end plug (below) is required. Open ond of case The notch must A special end plug is needed for the welt. This is a modified ver- sion of Method No.1, on page 70. Observe the notations at right. 76 accommodate the width and depth of welt. Round outside top edges of the Plug Ercesy Plug trimmed offZIPPERED CASE for DOUBLE BARRELED (side-by-side) SHOTGUNS Make the cane from 4/502 Wardle No.8 — sane as the cave an page 6 leathers as with previous zippered cases. Center line 8 tent eLow om, able barrel vitth FORHULAM.« 29" Double barrel width at breech This case is made exactly as the one at the breech: 1/2 of 2%" = 14". add 1/8" on page 64, with one exception: This 1s for a total of 1-3/8" to the center line. at the end, where both barrels lay side- bine (A) begins Just abead of the thumb by-eide with only @ button front oight. The release. The reat of the nossuronente from PORMOLA is used: 1/2 of 1-3/; 778". Add (iB). through (1) are the seme a step 2, on 1/8" to this for a total of 1* to the cen— page 64-..except for (H). comlete the case ter line above barrel. Since the barrel by following steps 3 through 20, pages 65 widthe here are 20 extreme, add another 1* £0 69. Use Method No.3, page 71, for making below the barrel; to make 2" to the pattern the End Plug. CUt it to the shape as below. Line at (4). Th FORMULA is also employed Remember the center of gravity: for handle. OTHER SHOTGUNS: Review pages 10 and 72 Single Barrel NOTE: for AUTONATIC, PUMP, OVER-UNDER, oF SLNGLE bar~ rel shotguns...use the same instructions as given on pages 64 through 69. However, with all shotguns (not including side-by-side double barrel above), the cen- ter line should be 1/2" above the barrel. With a bolt action chotgun, follow instructions on pages 72 & 73. *CALTFORMIA QUATL: "The Art ef Making Leather Cases - Yol.I",| Be gure the guitar is centered on the fold line. 78 Tho making of a guitar case ic not as difficult as it may first appear. We would suggest you read all of the instructions ana observe S11 Of the drawings and photos before aeeompting the prod: Stand all of the instructions. The guitar case requires a lot of materi: ‘mis case vas nade for a Spenish guitar want to ruin any of it By being impatient and too nasty. ‘The design on this case is a combination of basket stamping and traditional carving and Stamping of the rose. The roses are colored in natural shades, The basket stamping was antiqued (see "COLORING LEATHER"). ‘The cen= ter section was cut out with gold-kid pip- ing at the circles' edge. The letter "s" is embossed with secondary plugs (see EMBOSS~ ING LEATHER ). The letter was cut out and appliquéd to green suede (see cover photo). With these instructions, you can also make Fold (center) line in paper Keys hut eck <—— Sshest of heavy erapping paper >= Fold (center) Line cases for banjos, violins, mandolins, and Other stringed instruments’ of similar’ con Btruction, regardless of their outer shape: Before beginning be sure to have all of the necessary materials including the catches and other hardware. Metal hinges cannot be used successfully because the three hinging points will not be ona straight line, Use leather hinges Observe the exploded view fon the opposite page to faniliacize your- self with the parts required for the case. ‘The first step is to make the pattern for the bottom of the case, Fold a sheet of paper in half to create a center Line, Spread it out flat ‘on your bench and place the guitar centered on this fold Line, Put sone marks on the paper away fron the guitar as shown at left. This vill allow clearance for the guitar within the case, paper Instructions are contin~ ued on page 80,EXPLODED VIEW of the GUITAR CASE bxcept for the lining leathers, all parts for the guitar case are shown, Refer to the step-by-step instructions for the proper assembly procedures. wor (LID) 2/902. comhide Tap part of Spring Calehrs Botton part of Tuck-catch Bor. covhide Case Blocks for catches. Cut from 120z. cowhide fa, Lid and wood blocks———> cowhide For Storage Bor & Neck Suapert Ease STTFPENER S | Je" easonite a otto Reinforcing : eater ays, enbide Be sure you understand the assenbly procedures before cutting any saterials. »Not dra Lines con= = ee lee ee in paper marks fcon s:ep 1, shomn ~ with broken Lines; left. ronstip | A aaeell > Draw flowing Lines for a Hache Ate ate : oe Pleasing effect, curve UE where the neck joins the body of the guitar. Broken line shows . o lihen satistied wit forning of the patter the pattern lines, renove the guitar. ‘then ‘cut out the 1/2 pattern, Fold the paper and draw the other 1/2 of pattern as show at left. Unfold ‘and cut out the complete pactero. thle te fer the a Bottom aeseener only. [ieee peu LE does not move and draw around it to transfer lines to the stiffener material. mark enter lines on the stiffener both ends. Cut the stiffen ‘coping & reid line oF saver —™ 1/8" masonite (hardbcard) pr 1/8 venear areas with a coarse file, , ort on [5] Use a firm piece of 8/902. * this Tine Cowhide for the borton of S the case. Place the stiffener, smooth side up, on the flesh side of the leather and scribe a line 3/6" around the edges. ‘This will be larger than need- ed but we want to be sure thi we'll have ample leather. this will be trinmed later. Cut out the leather. If you vieh to So ere a other) design, seribe a border Line at least an inch fron the edge. It is wise to rubber cenent the leath- er to cardboard, or other material, to prevent excessive stretch, Allow leather to thoroughly dry before it is removed fron cardboard. Glue a Lining leather to smooth side of stiffener. cut it oversive IMPORTANT NOTICE: and trim flush with the edges atter ‘The lining glues to the eide of the gluing. We used suede leitier tor stiffener that was up in step 5. Lining this case, 8/02. cowhide Flesh side up LINING LEATHERS: Covhide splits, suede, went, or mast any Lightweight Teather stiffener:Lay the bottom leather flesh side up, and put the stiffener on it. Notice all edges may not be even, Sopecially if potton 1each~ er was stamped. Juggle the stiffener until you have at least 4" at all edges. Draw around it to mark position, then glue the stiffener to the bottom in this position. Now nark a line \* £rom the stiffener edges, equaling 2 thicknesses of 8oz. leather (the Side Pieces). Trim off excess. Hold the blade per- pendicular when cutting. Now we must make the top stietenes. lease unit on the rough side of the masonite-.weight it down so it will not move! Draw a line a gainst the edge of the leath- er to mack the outline on the masonite. Use pencil or ball~ point pen to clearly make the line legible. ‘This will quar antee you. a perfect fitting lia if you are accurate with your cutting of the masonite. Be sure you de mot cut énatde the line. A coarse file will smooth out any uneven edges. ‘The top leather will glue to the rough side of the mason- ite, See SPECIAL NOTE; right. hoxton g B> sure you have transferred the center marks to the Leather Lining will lus ta the Gther wide of top stiffener Lge of baton Teather SPECIAL NOTE: One side of the masonite is sooth and the Sther rough. We have chosen to glue the botton/top Leath- sre to the Tough side- TF you are using smooth veneer ou must mark which side the leathers will glue to for a per- fect fitting lid. If you glued to the vrong side, the fit nay not be proper as both sides of the ctiffener are not likely cut exactly the same. Thts to very inportant! Lay the TOP STIFFENER aside. ..and return to the BOTTOM UNIT |=—= Lf cass scion FRENCH BOGER ‘A suiteing aoe ‘murn the Leather to the flesh side Now turn the bottom leather up and qouge Be 77) wp and bevel for a sewing channel 3/16" from the edge all around the bottom. The masonite prevents the leather from touching the bench go a scrap of 8/902, leather can be used as suggested above to give support for gouging the channel. Move the leather as required. Or..-hold the bottom the miter joint, . all around. aye bevel Guide Line a 2 edge over the edge of the bench (if it would Caen be practical) to make gouge. va 8)SPANISH GUITAR Keys Nat Weck Bridge Record this wrenent Prop up neck Lining Lay the bottom assembly on your bench and position the guitar on it. Raise the neck and put a block of wood, or other material, under it so the head is raised a- bout 3/4" above the lining leather.this in- sures Clearance for the keys above the lin- ing. With mest Spanish guitars, the neck is Ganing Most Electric guitars have shallow boxes resulting in the highest point of the qui-~ tar at the nut, after propping up the neck. You should have 3/4" clearance for the keys OUTER EDGE VIEW sipe MN PLECE ter Joint -Y- ye i] Ne Cut the outer side pieces to the height ar— rived at in step 11. It would require over Bf. to go around the case...s0 the pieces will have to be cut in two parts. If you've followed the notes in step 7, you will have center marks on the betton leather. Measure 82 Wighest port oF guitar ELECESIC GUITAR Botton leather 144 1/4" te highest usually raised higher so the botton of the guitar box lays flatter on the lining...as shown above. Now measure the highest. point on the guitar; usually the bridge, Measure from the bench. Add about 1/4* to this, and you Will have the height for the outer side Pieces. Write down the neck prop height. Locate the positions of the support blocks for the neck and the storage nor. Measure fran the ena Of the bottom (a) to is benind the mae. Mark the lining here for the nsck support. Al” so mark at (8) for storage box block. Also ce~ cord the height (B) to be sure the block will not exceed this measurement. ed 1/09 to Wighost saint of eit Bridge at the head. You'll notice how this greatly reduces the height of the side piece, as is shown. Pay attention to seasurement at (a), ‘The sloping neck needs a shorter box blook. fox, cowhide Cut the side pieces fron the firmest part of the leather, between these marks and ald 1" to 2" to in- sure ample length. Cut the inner piece 1/0" narrower than the outer pieces, because the outer side pieces are aitered to fit at the bottom miter. ‘The inner pieces fit against the stiffener (see edge view above).GUITAR CASE ~ Continued Grain side jn cee Tep edye of inner side Jaint piece a Square ‘off at jin as ye inner side sanker Begin assembly with the side on pieces, Cut one end of cach piece square, Butt together and sew or lace as illustrated above. Tap the seam flat with a hammer. [15] Apply contact cement to the botton edges of the side giceaa, the bottom Leather and the oige of the ctif- Eenee ue chown by tho heavy black line tn the tkatch above. Apply with a mall brush if necessary. Begin adhering at the center Line. Press dom against the Botton leather firmly, and tightly againot the stit- fener. Carefully £oLioW the conkoure of te case ad fering one cide ac a tina, Srin the leathec ar che Sting the sther #i€9 around. sat center line as illustrated above. cut Off the end for a butt Joint. niteree cdge sf Reinforcing yy a Y Aivered a dye of bottom ing channels aie Re-apply glue to edyes and butt joint and adhere as in step 16. cut a rein- forcing piece about 2* wide, Skive all edges to a feather. Glue in place with ‘the top edges flush, a3 shovn above, Now peel the leathers loose and fold out enough to gouge sewing channels on the ends as shown a~ bove. The gouges should end 1/4" from the top. Width of quiter neck Rivet. Cut the blocks fron 3/4" pine or fir, cut neck block 1/2" higher than or. Leather single leath- tab Glue lining er thicknes oe acts as a oe tee hinge easurenent in step LL, cue ie . then curve it down 1/2 fron 1/8" for the guitar neck. Cut rasonite the other blocks shorter Attach Lid (3/8) than the curve in feck with brads the neck block. Width of support_ to this the blocks mst be equal block block cover to the stiffener width, : zr me at point of contacts Ob- eee serve all the notations el ae at left. tri flush are at ends and 8 tna blocks together bottoaInstall blocks before add~ GUITAR CASE — Continued T€ you have Followed previous instrvctions you will have marks on the stiffener Lining, whore the blocks will go. ‘he width of the blocks must be flush with the stiffener edges, ..cight at these marks, Set the blocks in place; check the fit. Be sure the lid will fit in properly. Adjust the marks if necessary, Now apply glue to the ends and bottoms of the blocks. spread the side pieces out; set the blocks in place, ee Secure with screws into the blocis. Place the a ty id in position and anchor with small bre ae marke ae tal This box not only strengthens the neck of the review stop 12 cee ease but is also useful for storing the picks, guitar strings, amplifier cords, ete. Top view of quitar in esac, chewing position of pin blocka PIN BLOCKS. Make Cover with Ligh eS weight leather SLi ghtly curve the tattame To Fit the inside of the ase Make two wood blocks Ee the apprexinate dimensions above and —serey COVER with leather. Place guitar in the case to lecate port ee tions of the blocks. Remove guitar. Glue blocks in place and " Secure with screws. These blocks help to keep guitar secure. 1/2" DEB Heinforcing piece. Cut fr Moz. covhide. Skive BUIT JOINT Prom 24/3oz. leather cut a strip 4 x 2k". Prepare 1/2 for sewing Beveled >~. and fold around a 4" dee; above. “se For Stitehing Glue this unit inside the case, joint begins or eds Seria centered on the seam, with the Se at bottom chamel channels GE the GidecEloca, mewn Glace? Prepare the two outer side pieces, Sgiare one end tupage tha tide stissees ante dg on each. Gouge a sewing channel along one edge... for the retaining etrap to keep afd 45° bevel this edge for the niter joint. Now gouge the 1id of the guitar case fron Sewing channels at the squared ends. Glue the leathers edicts lee ce together at the butt joint, then ¢luo the reinforcing piece in place, Sew the leathers together as indicated above. Study the illustrations for proper gouging of the sewing channels. (continued) top of the dee alnost at the top | 84Bide piece! up to this Sound thelr ae a ans Bo not termine the Location of the handle, cut off Lock, catches, hinges. Apply rubber ends cement to the flesh sides sparingly except at the cucved areas, 50 they can be peeled apart after fitting, as the hardvare fastens only to the outer piece, Begin fitting at the end, as shown. If your cutting has been accurate, the top edges will be even, and the miter joint will fit properly. rit each side carefully and push firmly in at all of the curves, OUTER SIDE PIECE IWNER SIDE PIECE Drav'a Line on the reinforcing piece, at the beet J Genter of Gravity [Ea] tortie te came ot gear We must now locate the center of grav~ ity to put the handle in its proper plas he handle will be centered here. Place guitar in the case and put it on the edge Of a board (right) until it balances. Put a fark on the top edge of the leather here. Ruler or suse sites te tocate the blogs Gost high points (A). 4 hinge cannot be put where ruler touches at (B). It could not function properly due to the bulge ahead of it. Therefore place the hinge at (C). This may be anj- where from 4" to 6", from the end of the case. this won't be on Line with the center hinge, but operable Mark positions of CATCHES, LOCK, HINGES, on edge of leather vith leather Mnges. Aoproviaate positions of catches Case lock attaches at center of handle actual. stat With Tab and savin i Shield Assembly channels Hardware and handle assem- bly used on this case. i802. eaten See "CASES", Vol.II" for other styles of Seving chanee) catches and instructions for installing. %eee tthe top etges for the Lo- cations of the hinges, catches and lock? Now carefully remove the outer side pieces. Loosen them fron the adtesion and try not to loosen the glued edges Of the inner side pieces fron the stiffener and the botton, Hingtss.set Flash vith top as Seving channel After removing the side pleces Lay then on your bench and attach the parts, centered on the marks from step 25. the spring catches are flush-type units so case blocks are needed. Attach catches to the blocks: Glue in place and sev. Sew lover Part of hinge. Measucements given (from the top edje) ace de~ Escutcheon pin Genter handle —— aver Lock center lire. this ie the width of the side piece, plus 4" allowance bo include the thickness of the top, Attach the handle as stown. See page 7 of *CASES,Yol,I" for many patterns and installation instructions, Top of Lie OE line ter Line and gouge sewing grooves Fe-apply cement as in step 17.Re-glue the ends in all over flesh sides and to place. If top edges are not even, miter Joints of both pieces, level ther with a piece of broken Adhere the outer side back in glass, Nov gouge seving channels place, The mitered edges must be on the inside and outside, all a~ joined properly! the top edges round the top edges. Sew the end should be flush...but if not, we as shown. he stitches must cone 86 will level them...see step 30. out in the growes...inside case.GUITAR CASE - Continued Moiaten side picce chan— nels and "wheel". It is not necessary to mark in the bottom channels...as sewing practice insures even stitches. Sew miter joints first. Then round with a large Bdge Bevel- er and burnish. If you are unsure of how to sew the miter joint, review "HAND SEWING" for this and other phases of Now sew the top eégo all hand sewing leather. around the case; burnich. Noe: Tf carving a decian..- romomber which side is to be up, at the handle! Bee photos of open cases on pages 78, 92, showing foam Now glue a Lining co the top stitrener as in step 6. Foam rubber can be glued between, to cushion the bridge and/or electri¢ controls of the guitar. Do you cenenber which side of the stiffener to glue the lining? If not, view step 8. It ie important for proper fit! EDGE VIEW BELOW - Actual Size Witer joint Top Leather \ Set the dividers to equal the thickn of both top side pieces. In this ease, it is 3/16" Put center marks on Teather Now cut the top leather from Som. cowhide exactly (A) Outer side pleces for as instructed in step 5. After carving your design the lid. (B) Inner pleces follow identical instructions as in step 7 to trim the are set 1/8" shorter than (A) leather to size. In this instance the side piece leath- to allow for the thickness of ers are cut fron Boz. & 4oz. cowhide. ‘these conbined e~ the top Leather. (C) Shows tow quals lloz. which is 3/16" in thickness. Trim at this we arrived at the position of dimension. Now follow steps 9 & 10 for the sewing chan- the catches in step 26. You'll nel and beveling the edge for the miter. Since the in- notice a clight clearance just side top side piece is oz. leather (1/16*), the miter under the lining leather which bevel will come to within 1/16" of the stiffener edge. is just about right. Study the edge view at right. ”SE Se alia, 1fam dee GUITAR CASE - Continued Tabs ortend eh x i ‘ | ae aneranueee ing and stiffencr at the center of the large end as shown at left. Use a wood chisel or sharp knife. This recess is strap (page 91). Cut a strip 4* x2" "~~ center of 24/302. leather to fold around the) line dee. Skive all edges to a feather. Glue this assembly in the notch Hitered edge (right). This unit will be sewn of top leather in with miter joint stitches. mt iy par ee inforcing piece — eR PCE overhang [38] tay ene outer side pieces, Flesh side up, on your “I bench. square each ‘end ard butt together. coment @ reinforcing piece over the butt Joint (a), (a)Square the ends of the nner side pieces. %ey wii alse bItt together at the joint and comnt to the outer pieces Fight at the mitered edae. See next step for details SSReRSUESEEECE, aera BO] mnickness of the top Leather sahide stermel Getermines where the edge of geoted above, Cut both inner acd Overlap will be trimmed; step 40, outer pieces 14? wide. Gouge the sewing channel in outer piece... and 45 degree bevel that edge. Teather Maintain a ani fore distance hero, fron the overlap of inner tered edge side place This is the side with——y the hinges. Cenert pieces together for ‘good bending nariacee at butt joint SPECIAL CHMENTING INSTRUCTIONS: The dark shading (leit) indicates where to cement for good ponding. Use rubber cement sparingly (Light This side will shading) as the leathers must be fave lock and pulled apart to install the catch catenes arts after fitting in step 43. Mitered edge Sewing channels Burnish eter this edge ‘trim off the Now gouge @ seving channel on each side Gouge chames excess inner of the trimmed edge. Burnish this edge, at butt Joint, 88 side piece. The catches prevent burnishing later. and sew.Tike Top is shown PINE: down. this edge will have catches and Lock Dee tab j} ov leather iter joint Apply rubber cement to the mitered edge of the side piece and the top. Also cement edge of stiffener and 1/8" of the inner side piece, next to the miter. Begin adhering at the butt joint. Center this on the center of the dee tab. Notice that the tab ettends at the miter joint. This will trim off after sewing. Now carefully continue adhering around the top, to the point shown above. Be sure mitered edges fit properly. — tnd adhering at this print Locating the catches for carefully fit the lid over the case. Check to see that it is down all around. ‘The top part of the hinges should be outside of the cide piece of the lid. The edge of the 1id chould cot on top of each case block (see illustration above). Open the catch spring (A) and fit the top part in place. (B) Close the spring and mark positions of the escutcieon pins with an awl. Repeat with all four catches. Since the top of the tuck~ catch will only accommodate the foz. thickness of the outer side piece, leathers muat be pried apart here. Lift the lid a bit to gain access and pry the leathers loose as shovn at lett, Edge of lid Screw Driver ase of cateh Push the catch up en outer attached to (TUCK-CATCH Lid leather. The inner part aida of cape goes between the leathers. ‘Adjust it so wben you close the lid the catch properly © ‘engages the base. Mark the hole positions with an avl, \ 46) as shown in step 44. “4 With the Lid in place, nov put random pa 544 | marks on the mitered edge, about every Randon aarks are required for relocation- step 49 Al 6". Bo eure the top and sides receive fa bit o£ the mark, at the miter. thie sige only 89Tuck-Cateh Awl holes for catches Now remove the lid and peel the miter joint loose along the catch edge and past the butt joint so you can install the catches. Observe the sketch above. en mite - er TOTTI Yoram, Ba Give tan etre NNER GIDE. Rivet catch prince throuyh al leatherase« oe Peel Heathers Lanse |” + : 4 1 and Fold up for Be - Flesh sides Lellntlinn astans Tongue of upper catch do view of Tuck-Catch: prong assembly Turn the loosened side piece so the inner side is up. tay on the bench and peel the inner piece loose so 1t can fold oUt of the way, a5 shown Above for installing the hardware. DO NOX peet £6 all tovse; only about 1/2 bay! Review our cementing instructions on page 88. Tnmtall the parte ae in. dicated. The catch (at butt joint) rivets through all leathers, since they tongue have alteady been sewn together here. After securing, glues light leather of iper over the back-piate: skive all edges. Also skive the inner side piece vhere tateh it covere the top of the Tuck-Catch. It reduces bulk; clovure is easter. Ro-apply rubber coment for final bond- the random marke (in step 46) mst again be ing to flesh sides, and carefully fold aligned so the catches will be properly po- the inner side piece back te its original sitioned. Put the lid back on the case and position. Keep the burnished edges as even check to see if all of the catches will en- as possible. Re-cement the mitered edges. gage. If not, peel loose and make the prop- adhere the side back to the top in its pre- er adjustments by adbering again. The ran- vious position in step 43. When adhering dom nacks must be aligned. Seuing channel, Sewing chamnels soe toxt Poel leathers Now, peel the outer and inner leathers apart (A) and bring the inner pieces arcund to ‘Gut off at the center line (see steps 15 & 16). Gouge sewing channels at the ents (sane as step 17). (B) After gluing the leathers in place...glue a reinforcing piece over the butt Joint as shown above, (C) Cut the outer side pieces to butt against each other. Gouge sev ing channels and glue in place. Sew through all leathers. Stitches should cone out in the channels inside. Re-burnish the top edges, if necessary. (continuec)jackstitch two; continue cut off threads sewing to next catch a new thread ee oe Been eee all adhesions are secure. Now sew at The stitching will have to end between the the mitered edge. Use the No.6 Over~ catches. For those unfamiliar with proper sewing stitch wheel. After sewing; burnisn, techniques, study the pages of "HAND SEWING", (Eee APPLY YOUR FAVORITE RATHER PINTEH MO MHR EXD AMD MBE EAH MBFOKE THe rimAL AssenoLy.— rap the Tid Fit the top back on the case and fasten the To sew the hinges to the lid, you'll have lock and catches. Turn the case to the hinge to open it so one arn can reach inside to side and glue the top of the hinges to the handle the needles. It will he unconfort- lid. The glue will bond better if you skuff able...but persevere...thore are not too off the finish and roughen the Leather. many stitches to take. 55] ‘The case is complete except for the retain- ing strap. cut it about 14" long, 4" wide, from 24/30z. leather. Use a small rivet (or eyelet) to attach one end to one of the dees. Fold the strap around the other dee and adjust the fold to hold the lid open. cut it off at the proper length and rivet to the dee. mi the satisfaction of i accomplishing this case will outweigh the expense of much material and/or the feeling of any lost time, [t will bring you Auch praise and sanitation and vill Jast a life-time. aTTAR CASE — Continued Tee ih ea Nendle No-10 ramen etioicigui tare have an off-angle head ty eae Soest an thie makes an ideal place to add a Utility Pocket for carrying plug-in cords, ete. ‘This also creates extra Support for tne guitar. Use a single thickness of Sos. leather or gine two biecen of 4oz. together. Sow the edge at top; burnish. Cut the length to fit within the guitar curve. Sew each end to the side piece. First sew edge (A). Fold around; sew edge (8). Moisten the Jeather First, so it will retain its shape vhen ary. Glue at the bottom. ‘The quitar case can be laced rather than hand sewn if desired. However certain changes must be made. Study the illustration at left. The leathers must be extended at the outer side pieces as well as the top and sotton, to form a "Lip® wide enovgh to take the lacing. Another consideraticn: Whore the side pieces (inner & outer) join at the top...this eége can be sewn as in step 32; or laced. If laced then you mist take inte account the thictness of the laced edge. this will alter the posi- tion of the catches. You will also nave prob- Jems installing the upper part of the catctes if you want to Lace the lid pieces edge, ‘the Back-Plate and riveted pins will be inside of the inner side piece. these mist be covered, Bottom Leather We do not recommend this tyoe of assenbly, because of the extra cost and tine in making the case. Lacing is subject to mich wear, and 2 is not as durable as hand sewing, Buyoey 405 éyy papuaax3GOLF_BAG Many golf bags are nade with pre-formed top rings,plastic bottoms and vertical support rods to keep the bag upright as most bags are made from very light material. for the general craftsman, the items above may be difficult for them to obtain. Our bag does not feature any of these items. We must cac~ rifice a bit of weight with this bag.-.by using heavier leather but most golfers use carts now to transport their bags over the course. ‘The construction of this baa ig easier...as the materials are readily available. Your only problem may be the iron rods that form the Erame £or the top and bottom. However, these can easily be made by any machine or welding shop- Give them the PATTERNS that we offer here. The bag holds fourteen clube, in a special designed container top. Be oure you read and underatand all of the instructions before cutting any materiale! Carving Designt \ Se 1op wi be wide tan intra TOP FRAME UNIT BOTTOM FRAME UNIT The first step is to make the top and botton Frame Units...covering the rods with leather. Full size patterns for top and bottom framing rods are given on pages 94 & 95, with instruc- tions for covering them. The patterns for the body of the bag, collar, ete., are determined from these frame unit sizes. Your frames will Cut the body of the bag from 9/100n. Cowhide. The height (for all bags) is probably vary in exact size from ours, so you will have to make all measurements from yours. We instruct you how. ‘the measurements we give are for the bay presented here. SOAK LEAF: "Inverted Leather Carving! cut to the dimeasion shown above, the width will vary according to each in- dividual Frame Size, Carefully study all following instcuctions. EAGLES: "Graftald! No-€536. "Classic Patterns! Vol. WClasic Pattorns!~ Vol LIt. %TOP FRAME actual Size ® Draw a complete pattern on heavy paper. Bend the rod to GOLF BAG — Continued goin and weld Center Line fit the pattern, and weld. Bend to fit the side view at right. ® cut a piece of 4/502. cow | ( hide about 32" long and 44" wide, We used burgundy lat~ igo. Other leathers can be used. Skive edges as indi~ cated. After wetting leath— er, fold it aroune the roa a! chown at right. The rod should be in the center of the leather- Trim the ends to overlap 47. The splice 48 at the weld (front) of rea: Apply glue to the in— sides and liberally around the rod. while it is still tacky, ‘begin achering tne sides together. © Now work the leather up tight against the rod vith a bone folder, first on the inside then on the outside so the leathers are centered on the rod. Re~ cause of the bend in the frame (shown in aide view) the leather will buckle in or out at thie area. This is taken care of in step (D). exter Ling —— i | I | Skive Spread Leathers to apply glue Skive these edges to feather cut a section cut at the buckled area as shown in the illustration above. See photo of the finish- ed unit on page 93. 1/4" TRON ROD fous; uy puog bUFMOUS HBTA OPTSGOLF BAG — Continued Join ana weleg——, BOTTOM FRAME Actual Size Center Line Bend the rod to the shape of this pattern, and weld. There are no bends in the rod, as with the side view of the Top Frame. Cut a piece Of 4/S0x. cowhide about 30" long and 44" wide (same as step B, page 94). fol low the same instructions as with the Top Frane. See the photo on page 93 for the completed unit. leather mark teat hark Top leather strip (A) Marte Lay the leather steips out flat and record the measurements of (A) and (8) from the end of the strips to the marke, Thi will be how wide to cut the leath- er at the top and botton. ‘The broken line suggests the top dinension if it were squared,s0 be sure to equalize the Lines at the bottom within this dimension. ..or the bag ¥ill be ‘erooked when assenbled. Tap of bag NOTE: Since the Bottom Frame is symetrical, there is no dis- tinction between the front and the back. Be sure to carefully study all of the instructions that follow, %(Gar ma = contimwes) Le—37%'—+} Shive about a/4th the thickness off the top edge Pa rel Seribe very Light. quide Lines || 2 ae a eae ‘\ Ee [| Aight guide Lines & & }e—“"San Bo see 60 2 23 @ aucsion ites | lint ek s choose. wenewer, | FE ge > tne cop te uae | ge i z than the botton, | &F a i fF 5 3 < No skiving is |S secthe very ight required on the st gdisltns tottor edse ; ‘a k oF 3% 3} ¥ i< 28% nore: Your bag may differ due to neasurenent in step 1———> ' 28%! 7 [B] et on te bap to mmaasemcts aks step 1. Lightly scribe lines as shown above. This will show you the areas you can carve. Cement your leather to cardboard so tr case tise eis staplog ali cag anne eerie After stanping, re-check all of your Reasirenent's and positions of lines. hake any necessary adjuctnents. The Lines should be straight. flandle Support glues between lines (A). Pocket edges sew at (B) and collar edges sew at line (c) 96‘GOLF_BAG — Continued Center the elete: Strap dean 1/8 here ! (ais. Like K 1 | = ane 14" slot 1 } Mines ° 1 | from Rivet hole | step 3 ‘No.4 punch. | | See handle’ 1 pattern for spacing here i | 1 note: ery | Holes 1" slot > \ should She 1 be about Won I At holow unch | 1 the slots: 1 1 i fe : Double the ' 1 fa x idth of I |! Ses ae 3 1 ane = \ 3)! | De | | aii | FO Gere aurract acran S=inice ier aks acm -odlive waliy I Bein leneaibornien che-eicea: Guncn ices a/botes. | for tether | in the bag as indicated. The slots are cut wider | eer | 1 than usual, to accept the extra thickness of the | (see below) | ited nancies (sco below). Punch equal sio:s (due | t no holes) in the Support Strap. Note the Strap is | | | Set down trom the bag top. This 1s because during a assembly the Strap moves up this amount when fit~ daly eat ! 1 ted over the handles. Punch 3/8" natching slots Gt aaa I! | at each side of the bag. Study notations below. aie 1 i \ | apps i MB Illustrations, here. ..shown ACTUAL STRE of the slots, 3/6" ug tunch side aecees pe hens ert = 5 i l) dth of slots for bag € (for Suppo! Skive both ends of the Support. Strap. : , _Skive about 1/2 of the leather thickness off at each side 7GOLF BAG — Continued Slot (a) slot (8) Slot (€) Kerper in slsts (0) [6] ‘The Handle Support Strap is shown with the leather Keeper in place and Shivee the sewing channels made. The edges should be burnished. The strap not end ‘only serves as a vertical support for the bag, but also conceals all of the rivets...for a more professional appearance. INSTALLING the KEEPER (LOOP) Surnish edges f Glue secre th geo vost 67102. cownide. Push ends With hammer, SS theough alata aed saw ter Fiateen Teep gether (eft). see page 3 and. glue te Se “éases== "vot for the the ‘Support turn to the grain side {neeructions on properly Strap onvehe up. Wolsten the Keeper making Leather Keepers. tneibes aha block tt as shorn. To begin the asserbly, apply contact cement to the flesh side of the Sup- port Strap and to the bag area within the lines (A), where the strap will adhere... Make the Handle and Buckle allow to dry. Assembly from patterns and inatructions on page 112. fondle PF sine sie Inside of Use No.9 copper handle rivets to attach the parts. They will not pull loose! ere washer papers Push the top of the Handle through slot (A) and rivet in place. Use wax paper as shown, to keep glue off of the Handle. Riveting will be easier with the washers Add more var paper over the glued on grain side of bag as shawn. After riveting, apply area of the bag to prevent prena- nore glue aver rivets and near the slot edge. Rivets, ture adhesion. Push llandle throagh other than copper, may pull loose, which would slot (A) of the support Strap. ..as make repairs difficult after completing bag. illustrated above. (continued) 98‘GOLF BAG adhered Outside of dandle shit (8) Aivet Now press the Support Strap down tight at each side of the Handle. If the edges are old Support Strap up and insert Handle into in alignment with lines (A), then remove slot (B) and fold strap back as show. Push the end wax paper and adhere the Support end of Handle into slot (H) of the bag, and Strap to the bag. Tap with a hanmer. rivet. Keep wax paper in place as shon, Adhere this section ta buckle leer the bag eee how rivets 7 hidden >> [2] Replace wax paper up against Handle. Cut a wax paper to fit between the Seay Slide Support Strap down tight near — fiandie and slot (C), Place another one tron SSS Sides of the Handle. If eages ace a- the slot to the bottom of the bay. Push the Bickle = lined, remove the wax paper fron un- ‘Tabs through slot (C) of the Support strap and in- der the Handle; adhere this section. to slot (C) of the bag. Keep wax papers in place. Ho ceiling book SPECIAL Nowe: IE you are hard sewing the pro- ject, a ceiling hook will be of great aid while sewing some ar~ eas. Review our previous books; "CASES", Vol.IT on page 25, for suggest ions. Pull Buckle Tabs down tight... from inside the bag. Rewove the wax paper from between the Handle and Buckle and ad~ here this section. Fold the Support Strap sharp- ly back out of the way. Remove the other waxed paper and rivet the tabs to the bag. Now carefully adhere the remainder of the Support Strap to the bag. Tap with hammer for good bonding. Sew both of the = // edges to the bag. This can be sews by wachine if you have access to a Meavy-Duty Stitcher /PATTERNS for the LARGE POCKET k—_6%-__>} ‘TOP ‘Skive end Saar Ts Sita 5%" . Dipper shot le Fae |_= = 1 iS ae regtstratten 3 Oot lee ee ee te 2 ea hice Tele z i -~ Pt | { EE I BACK eM Shive end cut POCKET : eof parts from ] 4/50z~ +h : cowhide seo | i ' 54 MAKE TWO - ONE LEFT; ONE RIGHT. Put the zipper in Ree 100 one side only! -y36U9T 12409 whee wo volts are needed. cut ‘thom 334 Long. Make’ thon from 3/tox. Leather. Bir- our velta, a the top ard Botton franes on page 94, This contrast with the natural leather gives a pleasing effect. Place registration macks ‘on both of ther, 16" fron ‘one end so they'll match up, during assembly, with the Back and Side pieces. ‘The graph is presonted so the proper curves will be achieved vhen saking your attern. ake note of all measurements given on the ‘graphs. We have nade al- Towances at a1) edges tor the velted seans. [is] ut the pocket parts ‘out fram the Leather weight indicated. Sew the Zipper in one of the side Pieces. Use a heavy 2ip- er. Do not sew a zipper in the Back piece yet! Furnish top edge of pocket a6o2 poate aio sBpo paaxye onto, i > je’ furnished edge 98} dye oF tack place {grain side ap) From 4/502, cowhide, fan Outside Pocket is cut 44" x 7-3/4? After it is carved, skive the side edges and glue the kottom and sides to the Back, as ‘shown above. the position ‘of the pocket is shoyn on the graph; left. Sew the bottom edge to the Back,‘of almost ary Ligneweignt ‘except shiver! It does not have enough tensile strength. cut to the dimensions given here Decide on the material to use then out out pocket parts as indicated at left. Clue the edges toaeth- er and sew around the pocket edge from (A) to (9). op of ack al clam Genent a heavy zipper in the Zipper siot of the Back piece and sow around the top edge and ends only, as shown in the sketch. Do Top of not sew the bottom edge yet! Back piece NOTE: The pocket can be enlarged by extending, equally, lines (A)-(B) of both parts. &7. Now turn the Back piece over with the flesh side up. Cement edge (D) of the Pocket to the un-sewn zippec tape; this will be the bottom of the zip~ i] per slot. Because of the angle of the pocket, it will have to be folded or crushed in,..to create ‘Turn the Back piece flesh side up and access for sewing this edge, Use whatever method shape the Pocket to its normal form you can to keep the Pocket out of the way. Turn Glue edges (C) & (E) in place; above. the Back piece around to the front side, and sew ‘The edges at (C| vill be sewn along the zipper in at the bottom, The stitches secure with the velts, edge (D) of the Pocket (as illustrated above). 101Bnlarged view abowing how Welts are positioned train side hegistration Cement the Welts along te edges of the Back Piece. Begin at the registration sarke...and Adhere... -working towards the ends, Pron pages 100 & 101 you should now a have all of the parte for the large Docket prepared as shown above. Sean edie, fron tor step 23 Flesh side AL egisteation sah Cement one side to the Welt as shown, Always use the registration marks to Properly fit the parts. We have also used tacks to insure no slipping at the welted Say atasion ark area (see pages 52, 53, of "HAND SEWING). Now sew the welted sean, Cement the other side to the opposite Welt. Keep all edges properly aligned. Also use the tacks to secure. Sew the sec~ ond Welt. Now trim off the excess welts, as we have previously instructed many tines. ees water, a few moments, Drain off the excess. open the zipper to drain water from the small pocket. Now flatten the Welts as shown at right. Place the Pocket on a smooth surface. 102GOLF _BAG — Continued Shived ease settening Now £111 the Pocket with towels or other soft aa- terial and place it on your bench. Shape it with your hands and straighten any wrinkled areas. Tack the ends down and allow it to dry in this position. Make two thongs about ste. long and 3/8" wide. Cut from 4/50m. Latige, indian tan, or other firm but pliable leather. Bevel the edger ard splice the two thongs together. See page 6 of "HOW to MAKE HOLSTERS’ for beveling instruc- tions. Lace the baq together as shown atove. Et Se a ee lar, on the flesh side. ALlov to dry. Begin adhering as shown. The top of the agetie Gellar €ite eight on Line (c)- ply slue 999 ad botcon sewing Tie batt joint together here, Hake sewing channels to Splice gor to keep From soreaéing natch those of the Collar ‘ta the back complete adhering to Glue the strip down; Apply glue to chadod areas. the bag and sew. The above. ‘Trim flush at While wet fit the bottom in stitches secure the strip the bottom; burnish. make the bag. the bay will form into and the Umbrella Holder. channels. Sew as shown. the shape of the bottom unit. Edge is at Line (0) Stitches com: out in channels Now glue the Unbrel- j la Strap Tab to the top; against the edge of the Pocket. Be sure the Tab is above the Umbrel~ Force the bottom unit down in it the bag until the Collar fits Be eee: ee Pat een i] te Legh toast there snugly against the frame rod. 5 collar. Use 7/Boz. leath- Mlow glue to set. Sew the U~ — Uabrella e ee Sea nit in both channels. \gider as a aon 106 the top frane unit here.aoe] | Cae eae) Leather strip oa Mark Fron step et ‘The Top Collar measurements will be in reverse | In addition, the Top Collar is of the bottom (step 41). Here, strip (B) will dipped covn at the back, con- be the top of the collar. Strip (A) will be at the forming with the angle of the top bottom that fits around the bag. This is usually frame. The collar will butt joint longer than measurement (B), at the top frane. Re- at the front of the bag. this is at read instructions in step 41. Reverse them here. the center of Handle Sipport strap, {Liao} ror weame once Teo nop conan raish bath dp Splice Seviny a : . (pe) 4] Cut Lhe collar 347 wide and cut it down to 2° at the back. Keep fitting it around the top frame Cardboard or scrap leathers until it fits at the rod and abuts at the splice, at Keep trimaing to Fit the front. ‘The length of the collar is detersined in steps 50, 51. after fitting, birnish edges apd souge beats the eurue cr the Sewing channels. Follow usual proceaires for carving. aa oe ° * i Tie butt joint here Glue the cotter to [5G] cut two strips of Lining leath- Nor glue the Lining the bag. If you are er and fold around inside the together at sides; going to line the bag do top and bottom to determine width to overlap 1/2". This net sew the collar yet. cut the lining. Mack the strips to forms a tube, Apply Stand a culer in the bag identify Top (A), Bottom (B). glue to about 2" of to acertain the depth of the lining. cut it about 1" above the edge of the bag. This edge of lining will be skived to reduce thickness. The lining in our bag was made of dark green garment leather. the top edge ard to Add}! to inside of the bag. the side, Wile glue 1s still for over= wet slip the lining Lap to into bag, Adhere in glue position, Stitching the collar secures the Lining. Rottom Cut out the lining from measurements hangs free. taken in steps S5, 56...plus 4* at side. 10top of bag Shoulder Strap Dee Tad— >| nbrelta Strap Tab Sew eal a's [59] acter tne 1ining has car been glued in place, Make the Shoulder Tab Dee, using Sew the bottom edge of the the pattern at right. This covers collar to the bag. Stitch- the butt joint as well as the splice es secure Umbrella Tab and on the frame. It also aids in securing the lining, as well as the the dee (step 66). Glue it to the col- top of the large pocket. ler, contered above the Handle Support Strap (bute Joint may be OFF center). Sow to within 14" of the collar's too, as shown above. DO HOP sev to tho tep! SHOULDER STRAP DEE 1/802. cowhide <= COMPLETED CONTAINER TOP whe photo at left shows the top unit ready for installing in the bag. Instructions for making this unit begin on the shames Tis Oe ib te hand wtp edge cn be sem ake DEE Force the top inside the bag until the collar Cut a pleve of heavy ravnide is snug against the rod. WW" x 4". Soak in vater and Let glue set then sew the skive the endé. Fold around top edge of the collar. a 1" solid dee, as above. < Apply glue to shaded areas. While wet, fit the top into the bag. the bag will shape to the frame. Reali Fit the dee unit over the cod [64] {center on dee tab) and pull ravhide down tight. Stab two holes through rawhide and all leathers for rivet positions If the tavhide is too long at skived ends (at Folded back dee tab}, cut sone off, Fold the Dee Tab! (continued) 108 back, out of wayTNSTDE VIEW {He snugly here Push the ab through the dee and fold tightly around it. tein copper rivets through from fat the bottom. Use care eo you do the front side. To set the PN not cut off too much? Moke sevec~ rivets, the bag will have stitching 21 trimmings if needed. then glue to be placed on the bench fron step a0 tHE Tab in place and complete the edge, vith a slim riveting Sewing. the stitenes cone out in iron underneath. the inside channels. Punch rivet holes (in awl marks) and insert No.9 COMPLETING the TOP FRAME UNIT |—— Frant of top—ag, plywood it [ez] had ew er] a it is dom As with the bottom unit (page 104) place the frame on the plywood and draw inside it as before, Since the frame is Now hold the back end down bent you mast do this in two steps. First,hold the front firmly and complete the pat~ down and draw around this area, up to the bends. Hold the tern by drawing around it. pencil straight up. ‘The back ond will be off the plywood. D0 HOM let the frane slip! FROWT PATTERNS on page 110 (eatiand al Cut out the plywood, There is Turn the plywood over so the Cut tho leather oversize. no need to identify the ends, bottom side is down. Cut out cut out the holes; burn- as the front is narrowest. Be holes, in proper locations. ish their edges, Nov put cure to mark the bottom...as Sandpaper them smooth. Apply on leather finish. Glue this side must be down, when two or three coats of water to the plyvoud, centering installed in the frame. resistant finish. over the holes. he 0MAKING the CONTAINER 1OP...for the GOLF CLUBS. Center Sandpaper all edges After cutting out plywood (step 69), draw a center line on it. Transfer the pattern on this page to the plywood. Position the holes carefully (center marks); cut then out. Use your plywood as a pattern for 0 Border Line is not ext Une Leather is trknmed a- ong the the leather. Cut the leather oversize as shown above. Prom a center line, mark éll hole posi- tions, After gluing to plywood (step 11), trim off the excess flush with the plywoodchannel Glue and task to edge Now we need a liner for the cut the liner to the dinen- © vee Properly fitted, top frame, This will be cut sions above, To fit curve of glue the botton edge of the from 7/802. cowhide. Length the frame, read instructions Liner to the container edge is determined by using the in step 53. Gouge a sewing and rail to secure, Be sure strip inaide the frame. channel at top edae:burnish. — the-totton edoes are even spleen aad Splice & batty Trim all Leather flush at bottom Apply glue to the parts (left) and push container unit up into the frame until the liner top is snug against the rod. Allow the glue to set. Now cut off all of the frane cover Actual Leather flush with the plyvood all r around. Tack or screy all around 1/2" ROLLER BUCKLE the edge to secure the container, furnish edges ‘The photo below shows the complete unit. Tum to page 108 and follow steps 61-66 to complete the bag, Cut a strap about 12" long by 4" wide, from 60z. cowhide. Sew or rivet the buckle on. Cut the Tab to dimen— = sions at right. Skive Position of 1 end to a feather and see step 49 punch the slots. Mark line (¢) on the tab. ( ( Cut from 6/702. cowhide her aal BAG PUNCH Burnith edge ‘Phe CONTAINER TOP mGOLF BAG - Continued Deas Lines. Flesh side uo [A] cut out the Lining from the pattern at right. Use care with your measuring and cutting. Draw a Line in from each edge as shown above. The Lines should join at the center of the narrow part. Now apply cement liberally to all of the shaded areas. Allow to dry. Mark from step (A) Grain side [Bo] rere stocs im ana ednere the cages at ince acaun in step (A). ‘The sdgox abut on the center line of the narrow part. Tap flat with hamner for good bonding. [EE] escoare tne hanate tor aosembly. Apply cement To the flesh side of handle ana to the inside of Lining and adhere the two together ag above. Keep all edges in alignment. Tap vith hanmer. PP] Clamp the Handle Assembly in the stitching horse and sew. Hole for =(For HANDLE SUPPORT STRAP)~ No.® copper rivet TAB - cut from 7/80z. cowhide 1 a 2 Buckle tongue slot Prepare the Tab from no- tations above. Noisten fold and forn tightly a- round buckle, then glue. Ve" ROLLER BUCKLE ae ‘Tawi @pEymo> -108/¢ moss 362 og ote iodo 57em turmas- O<— ase +3ge73U02 303 Ob1 1 Apurbang pean om)— “teuot ator SUTUTT 909. Spee waoq cata” -(sirun swez3 gain se owesON] dvuis 403 NUaLive spuoa ot aznsuT 07 a;mued © Gath dex -unous se BuTIOG ‘aury yaquas 09 pTO4: mir bes 2580 GOLF BAG — Continued Buol »¥9E~~~aPLYWoD “703// WAY 3nd - dVBLS AC MORS ae wereoR mae eet Pe ii CE se ee ans eng ° Z with a chicago screw. Re-punch hole if necessary. A No.9 copper rivet can po be used, but ie not as decorative. a owrvan oar Lay the strap on the padded lining and check the edges of the billet, and the tip. Sone adjustments may be requiced (in the lining) for the tip to conform to the contours of the strap. "¢ not se Now cenent the strap to the lining. Align billet #708 this end sides. ‘The padded area should extend equally at each aide. Sew together...punch the holes. spaced LJ" apart Notice how the color photographs on the covers show the pleasing contrast by using the burgundy 1atigo tor the frame covers, welts, and Linings for the handle and showlder otrop. We elu dyed the border, framing the eagles, with this sane color Be imaginative! Snap shoulder strap in die and burke“ Delon. : Te ALTERNATE SUGGESTICNS | —— liner Uabeella strapped in place Lining If you do not wish to make the Container fop, such simpler construction is shown in example (1). xost of the older bags were nade this vay. Cut slots in the collar. A strap serves to separate the clubs. The collar liner is the sane depth as the collar. Tf the bag is lined, it will be cemented in place before installing the liner. the Doo Tab will ex- tend as shown. Smaller bags can be nade as in ex ample (2). Sizes and styles of pockets can vary to the extreme. Assembly nethods are auc) the sane, A full Length pocket should cover laces; page 103. Uabretla 4 HolderMISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION (continued From page 2) BURNISHING ED6! "CASES*- Vol.1, page 12. Also "TOOLS", page 59. GLUE and CENEWT: "CASES"- Vol.IT, page 26. The erms are used to save space in our copy. Vol.II explain the differences in the two. OILING: "CASHS"- Vol.T, page 120. Not too much haa been said about oiling leather. Vol.I should help you in determining when Scabbards (cupceially saddle Scabbard) and other leather cases that are subjected to a lot of outdoor use in varied weather, should periodically be oiled. “COLORING LEATHER", page 49, also includes information on @iling and other leather con~ Ann Stchlaae sewing the miter joint on the 1id sf the guitar case ALL of the caves in this book were completely sewn by hand...a21 By anf When sewing on large oF billky pro- Jects,you have to get yourself in the nost confortable position by whatever means is at your comand, Use any Props that are necessary (as with the chair above). ADJUSTING the “STOHLMAN™ (scope) SADILE SCABBARD ~ page #8 When using saddle scabbards in rough country for long periods of time in troublesome weather (especially soaking rain), the leather will stcetch. If your Security Strap (A) stretches, it may allow the scope to ride on the leather. this is simple to correct. Cut the strap loose (B) on the back side. Remove the severed threads from the holes. Fold the strap tightly around the stock (C); mark position. Fol- low step 22, page 57. Re-sew. In our instructions for making the guitar case, we did not mention studs for the bottom. Five are recommended. We punched 3/4" circles out of 1602, cowhide and glued them in place. If you use metal studs, they must be put in the hotton (step 7 page 81) before it is glued to the stiffener, metal studs make it more difficult to assemble the case, especially when fitting the side pieces. Leather studs will not mar furniture sirfaces. hi116 Location of CASES (below) APTACHE (box case). FLIGHT BAG. GOLF BAG. GUITAR CASES. GUN CASES: (full length) CARBINE (lever-action) RIFLE (belt~action). RIFLE (scope). PISTOL (box case)-.--- PHONE (cordlesa).--- SADDLE SCABBARDS: CARBINE Clever—action) RIFLES (scope) 48,59, 60,62 SHOULDER TOTE BAG.........-+ 18 VIDEO CAMERA. Handle Noe’ General Information (below) ATTACHING HANDLES.......11/29,38,/66,98 BELT LOOPS (positioning) BOXES (wooden). 25 END PLUGS (for gun cases)..70)71,76,77 50 FORMING BOX (for scope scabbard) GOUGING/FOLDING (for bot covers)....26 INSTALLING HARDNARE....30,41,06,89.109 LnCING (fu @ bull joint). 2203 MAKING POCKETS a6 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. «2.200115 REVIEWING PAS pURLTCATIONS, 2 SADDLE SCABBARDS (hov to carry)..43,44 SHOULDER SLING (For gun ca000)....-.72 SHOULDER STRAP (for golf bag)...-.-113 STRAPS (for saddle seabbards). STYROFOAM (pistol case)... ‘This is another version of the Video Camera Case on page 8. It differs in the end construction, as in the sketch on page 10, step 9. The ends are not mitered, as with the case on page 6.Colored views of most of the rifle scabbards and gun cases in this book. if oa eee eo32000 ess met