BIG_WEDNESD)
BY JOHN NILIUS AND DENNIS AABERG
A-Team ProductionsPART I
THE SOUTH SWELL
SUITER 1963
"The sea of the past was like a beautiful and unscrupu-
lous woman -- strong men, with childlike hearts were
faithful to her, were content to live by her grace --
to die by her will”
~- Joseph Conrad
"An Outcast of the Islands"
"When boards were made of wood and men were made of iron"
-- Some old surferBIG WCDNESDAY
OCEAN = DAM
The endless dark sea stretching west into infinite blackness.
The ocean gently undulates, rolls in its slumber and a wave
is faintly outlined in the first rays of dawn. The wave rises
in its silence, steepens and wind blows up its face, spinning
a silvery mist behind. As it tovers and begins to topple for-
ward, its sensuous form is broken hy the dark appearance of a
man on a surfboard -- stroking up and through the concave
crest, bursting free with an explosion of glittering light
and finally falling slowly out of sight behind.
SHORELINE
The shadowy figure of a lean young man lopes seemingly in slow
motion towards a point. A sleek surfboard is held under his
arm. His face is tight and aggressive in expression, his
breath, measured. His muscles ripple with each stride.
BEACH
Wind blows paper across the darkened sand, the lights of the
city sparkle in the distance. Dark objects begin to move on
the beach as surfers wake up ~~ crawl out of their sleeping
bags -- lean up on one arm and look out at the morning waves.
NARRATOR (V.0.)
In the old days I remember a wind that
would blow down through the canyons
before dawn. It was a hot wind and
carried with it the smell of warm places.
It blew strongest before dawn across The
Point. ty friends and I would sleep in
our cars. --
HIGHWAY
A few cars lined up along the Pacific Coast Highway. Lights
of trucks pass hy with a roar. Softer lights appear in the
cars as the surfers get out and stretch.
NARRATOR (V.0.)
And the smell of the offshore wind
would often wake us and each day we
knew that this would be a special
day, a special morning --
Some surfers pull shiny long boards from a panel truck and
enter the beach through a narrow gate in the torn cyclone
fence. They make hooting sounds as they disappear into the
dawn.
(CONTINUED)