M.

Weber
M05 Weft Knitting Technologies State of the Art I
Content
Stitch formation, needle arrangements, cams (CD)
Loop drawing needle notation
Needle selection
Flat knitting machine parameters
Flat knitting pattern
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Loop drawing needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
2
1
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Loop drawing needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
4
3
2
1
M. Weber
Loop drawing needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
6
5
4
3
2
1
M. Weber
Loop drawing needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
M. Weber
Loop drawing needle notation
Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:
3
2
1
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Loop drawing needle notation
e. g. Half Cardigan

2
1
2
1
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Loop drawing needle notation
e. g. Half Cardigan

2
1
2
1
2
1
2
1
References:
Weber: Wi rkerei und Stri ckerei . DFV 2007
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Parameters of Flat Knitting Machines
1. Machine gauge, 2 20 E , E = needles per inch
2. Yarn count in dtex / Nm
3. Area of needles,
e. g. automatic flat knitting machine: 1,30 m 3,05 m
4. Number of systems, 1 6 systems, (6 systems = 12 cams)
5. Speed of carriage, up to 1,30 m/s
Glove and toe sock machines have different parameters, which change
depending on gauge and size.
[E] 2 2,5 3 3,5 4 5 7 8 10 12
dtex 7500 6667 5556 5000 3848 2843 1623 1422 972 871
Nm 6x16/2 6x18/2 5x18/2 6x24/2 5x24/2 4x24/2 2x22/2 2x24/2 2x36/2 1x24/2
6x34/2 4x34/2 2x28/2 2x34/2 1x24/2 2x44/2
[E] 14 16 18 20
dtex 607 373 318 250
Nm 1x28/2 1x48/2 1x54/2 1x80/2
2x40/1 1x54/2 1x60/2
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Yarn Count vs. Machine Gauge
0
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
6000
7000
8000
9000
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
1,14 g/ccm Polyamide
1,17 g/ccm Polyacryl
1,36 g/ccm Polyester
1,32 g/ccm Wool
1,52 g/ccm Cotton
gauge
dtex Nm
6x 16/2
6x 24/2
2x 28/2
28/2
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Cel lulosics
27%
PES 27%
PA 15%
Acryl 23%
Other
Synthetics
WO1,4%
CO
31%
Cellulosics
4,6%
Acryl 2,5%
PA 5 %
PES
48%
Others
PP 7,6 %
References:
C. Edward Hayes:Textil e Market Research NY/USA; IVC, Frankfurt/Germany; Fi ber Organon, Arli ngton, VA/USA
In: Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2011 p. 4-12
Fibre Production - Faser Produktion
World Germany
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Technical
Apparel
Home +
Carpet
Classification of Textile Application
Anwendungen textiler Produkte
World Germany
Home +
Carpet
Apparel
Technical
References:
C. Edward Hayes:Textil e Market Research NY/USA; IVC, Frankfurt/Germany; Fi ber Organon, Arli ngton, VA/USA
In: Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2011 p. 4-12
55 %
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Patterns of flat knitting
1. Cuff, border structures, starts
2. Cam setting only
- structural elements - stitch/ tuck/ float, e. g. (double) full cardigan,
(double) half cardigan, knob, roll welt, Jacquards
3. Transfer/increase of stitches or tucks
e. g. Petinet, jour, pelerine, Jacquards
4. Yarn carrier technology
- Stripes (colour change), striper technology
- Plating, intarsia, pile fabric or plush, weft
5. Needle bed racking
- Racking without transfer (stitch, tuck), e. g. racked welt,
racked cardigan every (2nd) course
- Racking with transfer (stitch, tuck), e. g. Aran, cable stitch
6. Needle hook size and machine gauge, e. g. Multigauge
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Starts
1. Without start, only pattern design
2. 1 x 1 (half racked)
3. 2 x 1 (without racking)
4. 2 x 2 (half racked)
5. Tubular (without racking)
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Starts
6. Start with pick-up (reed) 7. Start with no pick-up (holding
down sinker )
source: Stoll M1 Pl us
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Production technologies of flat knitting
1. Conventional knitting (26 steps)
- Front and back knitting, steaming, separating, cutting (8)
- Sleeves knitting, steaming, separating, cutting (8)
- Collar knitting, steaming, separating (3)
- shoulder seams, sleeves linking, side seams, collar linking,
neatening of yarns, labelling, final inspection (7)
2. Fully Fashion (22 steps)
Cutting is not necessary
3. Integral knitting of whole garments (4 steps)
Whole garment knitting, neatening of yarns, labelling, steaming, final
inspection
4. Gloves and toe socks
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Colour Jacquard
Front Backing
source: Stoll M1 Pl us
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Double Face
Colour Jacquard backings
Horizontal stripe backing
Birds eye backing
Vertical stripe backing
Ladder backing
Single Face
Float backing
2-Colour 3-Colour 4-Colour etc
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Ladder full
Ladder 1 x 1
2-Colour Jacquard ladder backings
source: Stoll M1 Pl us
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Ladder 1 x 2
Ladder 1 x 3
2-Colour Jacquard ladder backings
source: Stoll M1 Pl us