SPIRIT JOURNAL
COGNAC -
FRANCE
Guillon Painturaud VSOP
Grande Champagne Cognac
(France; USA Wine Imports,
New York, NY);
40% abv, $50.
Medium amber/straw color; some
sediment seen. Comes out swinging
with ripe yellow fruit, light baking
spice, and candied (glazed) walnut
aromas — no wallflower; the tropical
fruit note becomes orchard. fruit,
which emerges as the dominant aroma
aspect as the acute fruitiness takes
over and simply won't let go: nice
Eniry is keenly fruity (apples, pears)
and ripe, as well as spicy (cinnamon);
Iidpalate is terrifically scrumptious,
apple-like, baked, pasiry-like, and
crisp. Finishes intensely spiced and
apple tartike. Excellent Buy!
Spirit Journal September 2009:
Ie K/Highly Recommended
Guillon Painturaud Hors d’Age
Grande Champagne Cognac
(France; USA Wine Imports,
New York, NY};
40% aby, $190.
Lovely bronze/burnished orange ue;
quite a lot of seciiment present. Bacon
fat, rancio beginnings, margarine, and
sautéed almonds take the aromatic
lead right out of the gate; quite a lot of
the opening fragrances blow aff dur
ing the added seven minutes of aera
tion, leaving behind a focused bouquet
Cw
Ce Loniage
Hors d'Age
Of dried fruit, especially prune, black
raisins, and dates. Entry is tidy, crisp
with acidity, and mildly oaky; mid-
palate is borderline oily, medium ripe
and fruity, vanilla-like, and woody /
resiny. Concludes long, bittersweet,
tannic, and like dates and figs
Spirit Journal September 2009:
‘Highly Recommended
Guillon Painturaud Renaissance
Grande Champagne Cognac
(France; USA Wine Imports,
New York, NY)
40% abv, $380.
Deep copper/henna color; sediment-
free, Nutmeat, dried fruits, old leather,
and toasted almond scents abound in
the opening stages of the nosing phase;
the mature bouquet tums deeper and
fnuitier and confectionery-like in the
second wave of sniffing after aeration;
seductive. Entry is sweetish, caramel-
like, full weighted, and chewy; mid-
palate offers fathomless tastes of can-
died walnut, brown sugar, fruit pastry,
mince meat, and baked spiced pear.
Ends up assertive and generously
spiced.
Spirit Journal September 2009:
sox dOK/Highly Recommended
Paul Beau VSOP
Grande Champagne Cognac
(France; USA Wine Imports,
New York, NY);
40% abv, $60.
Deep amber/old gold color; excellent
clarity. Bakes! apple aroma leaps from
the glass in the initial whiffs after the
pour; further air contact brings out
delicate scents of pastry dough, nut-
meg, ancl light toffee. Entry offers suc
culent tastes of caramel, toasted
marshmallow, and candied apple;
‘midpalate stays the candied /earamel
course, adding sweet, spicy traces of
vanilla, maple, and oak. Ends on a
sweet, confectioner’s note of brown
sugar. Lovely.
Spirit Journal September 2009:
dekwe/Highly Recommended
Paul Beau Hors d'Age
Grande Champagne Cognac
(France; USA Wine Imports,
New York, NY);
40% abv, $110.
Seriously gorgeous old coppercolor/
auburn color; sediment-free and pure.
Prickly, assertively spirity opening
nose of sawdust and dried yellow
fruits; further aeration brings out more
Of the spice aspect, leaving behind the
‘oakiness and a measure af the dried
Sruits. Entry is fully integrated, resiny /
woody, and dry; midpalate is peppery,
meaty, charred, maple-like and_piny.
Finishes in a flurry of high-toned spice
and oak notes that are immensely
charming. Harmonious and tightly-
knit cognac splendor,
Spicit Journal September 2009:
deitotk Highest Recommendation
Paul-Marie et Fils
Grande Champagne Cognac
Grance; USA Wine Imports,
New York, NY);
51% abv, $600.
Highly attractive henna/chestrut
brown color; superb purity. Smells out
of the gate like old leather/men’s
club/library; additional time in the
glass doesn’t expand the aromatic
boundaries all that much, adding only
treacle and marzipan. Entry is long,
very complex, intensely oaky and
spicy, and very much like dried red
fruits, especially prunes and raisins;
1midpalate is sweet/sour, touched by
rancio, cheese-like, and round andl oily
acon fat). Concludes decadently
hhoney-like, concentrated, oaky, spicy,
and surprisingly austere and even a bit
‘minerally. Awesome taste experience
after a s0-30 aroma.
Spirit Journal September 2009:
Se HMHighly Recommended
20 + SEPTEMBER 2000