Produced by

Ltd
Io a hoad-to-hoad shov|og match, you oood a sumo robot that |s stroogor aod
smartor thao tho othor.
Iho 8o|arbot|cs 8M0v0E |ots you bo stroogor aod smartor by bo|og tho most
I|ox|b|o, most poworIu|, aod most aIIordab|o! r|og ooo to tho sumo r|og, aod soo
Ior yourso|I!
Document Revision: August 31, 2005
The So|nrbotics SUMOVORE
Mini-Sumo Robot P|atform
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Introduction
The }apanese brouht robot sumo Wrestlin to North America some years ao, and then they promptly proceeded to mop the
floor With our robots. The }apanese take their sumo Wrestlin very seriously, and they applied the same enthusiasm to the robotic
counterpart. All Who saW these sumo robots compete Were taken by the eleant simplicity of the contest, and many joined in to
make "}apanese Standards robot sumo happen in the Western World.
As fun as it Was to Watch the contests, the size and resources required to build these robots to }apanese standards held many
others back from joinin in With the fun. This is When Bill Harrison developed a neW class of robot sumo - the Mini-Sumo. lini-
sumo Was desined to be half the size, 1/th the Weiht, fouht on a rin half the diameter and considerably less expensive to
build than a standard class sumo. lt proved to be such a popular event, that noW mini-sumo robot competitions run all around the
World!
Solarbotics has noW joined the fun by brinin the Sumovore kit to the rin! We have the unique resources to combine modular
desin, inexpensive components, and clever electronics into an affordable packae that lets you have a shot at bein Yokozuna
[Grand Champion] at your next robot sumo competition.
Heres What the Sumovore has to offer:
Fully conforms to mini-sumo competition requirements
V operation [ AA cells]
FoWerful 1+3:1 ear motors [not servos]
Up to FlVL front ede sensors
TWo active lk opponent detection sensors
Steel baseplate for sturdy construction
lodular electronics spread betWeen a mainboard and tWo dauhterboards
lncluded advanced-behaviour discrete brain module [easily sWapped out]
Discrete Brain "Sumo-Dance inhibitor [S seconds of no chane in opponent detection, Sumovore chares forWard]
Discrete Brain "Lde-kam inhibitor [direct-on ede chare forces a backup/turn riht behavour rather than repeated ede
chares]
FoWder-coated steel [not aluminum] front plate in multiple colours
Custom-made Z-S/ diameter Wheels in multiple colours
Full schematics included for custom hackin
ne optional rear lk detection sensor runnable in active or passive modes
ptional easily-activated built-in line-folloWer mode
ptional Basic Stamp ll / Stamp Stack brain module
ptional FlC 1F1A1 brainboard With breadboard space
ptional Atmel leaL brainboard With breadboard space
Bein the result of over Z0 prototypes and S00 man-hours of development,the Sumovore is faster, cheaper, better performin and
heavier than any other stock mini-sumo kit. We are sure you Will have a ood time buildin and competin your robot, so Warm
up that solderin iron - its time to build!
0iscIaimer oI liabiIity
Solarbotics Ltd. is not responsible for any special, incidental, or consequential damaes resultin from any breach of Warranty,
or under any leal theory, includin lost profits, doWntime, ood-Will, damae to or replacement of equipment or property, and
any costs or recoverin of any material or oods associated With the assembly or use of this product. Solarbotics Ltd. values
constructive feedback, raspberry-straWberry-chocolate milkshakes, and smart friendly dos. Solarbotics Ltd. reserves the riht to
make substitutions and chanes to this product Without prior notice.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Pnrts List
ody Components
1 - FCB [3 FCBs in one, Will require separatin alon scored lines]
Z - Gear lotors
Z - GlFW - Gear lotor Wheels
+ - Traction Bands
1 - Dual AA Battery Holder
1 - uad AA Battery Holder
1 - Front Flate
1 - Steel Baseplate
3 - #Z x 1/ Nylon Spacers [for mountin / spacin FCB]
3 - #Z x 3/ lon thread-formin screW [for mountin / spacin FCB]
Z - #Z x 1-1/+ lon thread-formin screW [for mountin battery pack]
+ - #+-Z0 x 1/Z lon thread-formin screW [for mountin motors]
3 - #+-+0 x 1/+ thread rollin screW [in main board components ba]
+ - #Z-S Sheet metal screW [in main board components ba]
- AA Batteries kequired
Main oard Components
Z - 1l kesistor [BroWn/Black/Green]
Z - 1k kesistor [BroWn/Black/ked]
1 - 1+AC1+
1 - 1+ Fin DlF Carrier
1 - LZ3D
1 - 1 Fin DlF Carrier
Z - FNA+0Z - lk Detector
1 - Z31 Vre - Voltae keulator
1 - SWT1 - FoWer SWitch
1 - SWT3 - lotor Lnable SWitch
3 - ked LLDs
- 0.1 F Capacitor [labled 10+]
Z - . F Capacitor
1 - 1000 F Capacitor
Z - TWo Wire Terminal Blocks
Z - + Fin Header
Z - + Socket Header
Z - Socket Header
Edge/lk oard Components
1 - 100k kesistor [BroWn/Black/YelloW]
S - Z+0 hm kesistor [ked/YelloW/BroWn]
1 - 3k kesistor [rane/Black/ked]
1 - LlSSS
Z - lk LLDs
1 - Z0k lulti-turn Trimpot
1 - ZNZZZZ Transistor
Z - 0.001F Capacitor [labled 10Z]
Z - lolex 0 Deree Lde Connectors
+ - kD111+ - Lde Detectors
0iscrete rainboard Components
+ - 1k kesistors [BroWn/Black/ked]
- +1k kesistors [YelloW/Furple/rane]
Z - 10k Sinle-turn Trimpot
1 - 1+HCTZ+0
1 - Z0 Fin DlF Carrier
- 1N1+ Diodes
+ - 0.+1F Capacitors [labled +1+]
Z - .F Capacitors
Z - Green LLDs
1 - SWT10 - S Second Timer keset
Z - + Fin Header
Z - Fin Header
+ - Z Fin }umper
Z - Z Fin Shunt
1 - +10k kesistor [YelloW/Furple/YelloW]
3 - Zl Sinle-turn Trimpot
We stronly suest you inventory the parts in your kit to make sure you have all the parts listed. ln the very unlikely occurrence
that anythin is missin, contact Solarbotics Ltd. for replacement parts information.
TooIs kequired:
Solderin equipment [solderin iron, solder, spone]
Side cutters [Wire snips, or nail-cutters Will do]
Wire strippers
Needle Nose pliers
ledium Fhillips ScreWdriver
Small flat-head screWdriver [for tunin]
Drill & 1/ drill bit
Sharp knife or anled snips
#1 Fhillips ScreWdriver With ood handle - youll be tWistin some tiht screWs!
OptionaI:
Superlue or Hot-Glue un
Alcohol [or other non-residue cleaner]
One of the most common errors is to accidently "bridge" the pads between
components. Make sure that there aren't any tiny flecks of solder or wire
between the pads.
Solderin! lf you have never soldered before, it could be an
intimidatin concept. After all, youre bein asked to take a scaldin-
hot piece of metal, and use it to melt metal onto delicate electronic
components!
lt is actually a pretty straiht-forWard process. Weve tauht -year
old kids to solder [With supervision], so theres no reason Why you
cant Wrap your head around this skill.
The trick is heat. Heat is ood. Too often, neW students are scared
by the concept of all this heat in a small space. Well, What is really
hot to you and me [the solderin iron], is actually just a sunny day
at the beach for the components.
A successful solder connection can almost be uaranteed if you
remember you are heatin tWo pieces of metal, not just one. Heres
the basic procedure:
1] Fut the component le throuh the solder pad hole [snued up close]
Z] Wipe off the tip of the solderin iron on a damp spone so its shiny and clean. lt transfers heat better When its
clean.
Z] Holdin the solderin iron like a pencil [not at the tip! Hot metal, remember?], jam the tip into the corner Where the
le comes throuh the hole. This means the solderin iron tip is heatin both the le and the solder pad.
3] Count to +. This heats up the parts.
+] While keepin the solderin iron in place, add solder to the other side of the le. At this point, both the le and pad
Will be hot enouh that they Will melt the solder into a nice connection. Youll probably notice some yelloW or clear oop
appear When you solder. Dont Worry, this is flux, and it is in the solder to help make a ood, clean connection.
Do NT treat the solderin iron like a brush. That is, DNT melt solder to the tip, and then try to smear it onto the
connection. Youre a electronics enthusiast, not a painter!
lf you mess up, dont Worry. You can reheat the solder and ban it loose With a quick snap onto a pad of paper [please
use eye protection at all times]. lf you et tWo solder pads fused
toether, use the solderin iron like a pen, and "draW a line
betWeen the pads. The solder Will remelt, and floW off to the sides.
The final check for any solder joint is the "Wile test. Firmly rip
each component and ently rock it side-to-side. Any movement of
the component les on the other side of the board means the joint
isnt firm, no matter hoW ood it looks. keheat and apply more
solder to the joint.
Solder
Soldering ron
(hold here!)
Solder Pad
Circuit Board
Component Leg
1. |nsert component
2. Wlpe so|derlng lron tlp on damp sponge
3. Stlck lron tlp lnto corner o| |eg & pad
4. Count to 4
5. Add so|der
6. Pemove lron
Solder flecks

Bad
No flow from leg to pad
Good
Flows from leg to pad
Bad
Solder "bridge across pads
Bad & Good SoIder Joints

The So|nrbotics Sumovore

So|dering Tutorin|
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics - +
Lets brin the Sumovore to life! Were oin to start With the mainboard, as it is both the electronic and
mechanical core of the Whole robot. Before startin, read the Whole procedure. Yes, really! Buildin it isnt
the contest, so take your time here and do it riht. Theres some tricky parts, so be prepared.
When youve read this section, snap your FCB apart [yes, it snaps apart], turn on your solderin iron, et
your parts, and sit doWn in a comfy spot and et to Work.
Step 1: k1, k2 1k kesistors {rn / Ik / ked)
Bend the resistor leads over, and insert them into
positions k1 and kZ. These resistors limit the
poWer oin throuh the LLD1 and LLDZ
"opponent detected indicators.
Step 2: k3, k4 1M kesistors {rn / Ik / Grn)
Bend the resistor leads over, and insert them into
positions k3 and k+. These resistors help
filter false sinals that come from the lk
detectors.
Step 3: lC2 - lM237 VoItage keguIator
Bend the les doWn on the voltae reulator, and
insert it face-up, flush to the FCB, next to k3 and
k+ at position lCZ
B|ep P: 1V
Hes|s|crs / P
B|ep 1: 1|
Hes|s|crs / P
B|ep 8: Vc||ae He.
Steps 4, 5: Insta||ing 74AC34 and L2BS chip carriers
Steps 3-S: Insta||ing R3-R4, Ve|tage Regu|ater
B|ep 4: 74AO14
Oarr|er 14 p|as
B|ep 5: |PO8 Oarr|er
1G p|as
Step 4 & 5: Chip Carrier lnstaIIation
The Whole reason for puttin in chip carriers is so
theres little fear of solderin a chip in backWards, or
of fryin a chip.
Note the little notch out of the front of the carrier -
you Want that to match the position of the notch on
the shape of the lC picture on the FCB. This is so
youll knoW Which Way to put in the lC into the carrier
later. }ust because you can install a chip backWards,
doesnt mean you should!
Carriers, Resisters, and Ve|tage Regu|ater insta||ed
3
7
Nete: Dne purpese ef the chip carrier is se that yeu wen't
damage the chip whi|e yeu're assemb|ing the rest ef the PCB.
If yeu fee| yeu're particu|ar|y accident-prene. Add the chips te the
seckets en|y just befere adding the batteries fer the first time!
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics - z
Step : lnstaIIing the lCs into the Carriers
This part isnt hard, because if you mess it up, its easily corrected.
Simply note Which side of each chip has the notch, and install each
into the proper carriers. Confirm all les o into the slots!
Note: You may have to ently bend the chips les inWards a bit to
make them fit into the carrier!
The LZ3D is the chip that routes the actual poWer to the motors, so
if you severely abuse your minisumo, you may need to replace it. This
is very unlikely, especially since it has a feature called "thermal
shutdoWn Which turns off the chip if it ets too hot.
The 1+AC1+ is used to condition the sensor sinals so they make
sense to the rest of the electronics in your minisumo, and is also part
of the S second startup delay timer.
Note Notch Pos|t|on
Step 6: Insta||ing L2BS and 74AC34 inte carriers
B|ep G: |as|a|| |Os
74AC"4
LEB3O
Step 7, 8, & : Capacitors C1-C3, C, C7
Start With the can-like 1000F .3V. Bend the leads over as shoWn, and
insert into the C1 position.
Note: The striped side of the capacitor is neative, so make sure the lead
nearest the stripe [also the shorter lead of the tWo] is oin to the square
pad.
Finish by insertin the .F tantalum capacitors in spots CZ and C3,
aain, notin polarity. The loner lead is the + side. You lUST et the
polarity riht With these capacitors! You risk bloWin them up if theyre
installed backWards!
The 0.1F [labled 10+] capacitors dont mind hoW theyre installed in
the small boxes labled C or C1 AOVE the left/riht motor mounts.
Solder them in, and clip the leads off the bottom!
B|ep 8:
G.8| / P
B|ep 7: 1OOO|
Steps 7 - B: Insta||ing 3000F and 6.8F capaciters
Steps 30 & 33: SWT3 and SWT2 switch insta||atien
Step 10 & 11: SWT1 and SWT2
No maic here - insert the sWitches so theyre flush to the surface, and
solder them in.
SWT1 is the all-important main poWer sWitch. Wont do anythin Without
it!
SWTZ is the lotor Lnable sWitch, Which Will turn off the motors so you
can easily tune your Sumovore Without it runnin aWay on you. ltll look
like one or the other shoWn, and both Work equally Well.
B|ep 1O: BwI1
Va|a PcWer BW||c|
B|ep O: O.1| / P
B|ep 11: BwIP
Eaac|e BW||c|
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics -
Step 12, 13, 14 - lE0, 8 & 4 losition Sockets:
This LLD is Wired in series With the infrared emitters on the front sensor dauhterboard. lf you see this LLD on, it means the lk
emitters are also on - a ood sin of poWer and proper operation!
All LLDs have to be installed the riht Way around. Look carefully for the flat spot on the rin round the LLD, and install it in
position LLD3 so the flat matches the flat as marked on the FCB. Another tip is to make sure the shorter le oes into the square
pad. Dont Worry about the second pair of pads beloW the oriinal holes - theyre for future use for mountin an additional lk
Lmitter for rearWard-lookin sensors.
The tWo pairs of + and position headers interface the brain dauhterboard With this mainboard. lts quite important that they
are installed vertically - straiht up & doWn. The socket headers o in positions H1 and HZ, and the + socket headers o in
positions H3 and H+.
The best Way to do this is to insert the header strip into the FCB, and solder just one of the pins to the solder pad. Flip it back
over, and bend the strip until it stands straiht up from the FCB. Then o back, and solder up the rest of the pins.
Steps 32, 3S, & 34: LED, 8 & 4 Secket Headers
B|ep 18:
8 Bcc|e|
heaaers
/ P
B|ep 1P:
Hea |E0
B|ep 14:
4 Bcc|e|
heaaers / P
Step 15, 1 & 17 - lront lk Sensors, Capacitors & lE0s
The Sumovores "eyes are mounted at the front corners of
the FCB, With the filter capacitor and indicator LLD just behind
each eye.
These lk sensors must be installed the correct
Way, so make sure the bule on the front of the
part matches Whats printed on the FCB in
positions lk DLT1 and lk DLTZ.
The LLDs are just the same as the one in step
1Z, so use the same techniques to make sure it
ets installed the correct Way in positions LLD1 and LLDZ.
The 0.1F filter capacitors dont mind Which Way they et
installed, so insert and solder them in positions C+ and CS,
and Well et onto the next step!
B|ep 15:
|H Beascrs / P
B|ep 17:
|aa|ca|cr |E0s
/ P
B|ep 1G:
O.1| capac||crs
/ P
Steps 35, 36 & 37: IR Sensers, Caps, and LEDs
IR Insta||atien
Finished
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics -
Step 18 & 1 - lront lins and TerminaI Iocks - lMlOkTANT!:
Well, Were done With the top of the FCB [for noW]. These next tWo steps take place on the underside of mainboard, so even if
the markins for the parts are on the top of the board, theyre installed on the underside. Dont et this Wron!
B|ep 18: |rca| P|as P se|s are |as|a||ea aaaeraea|| pc|a|s 'P1' 8 'PP', HUI e| |as|a||ea ca ||e c||er s|ael
B|ep 1O: Iera|aa| c|cc|s P se|s |as|a|| |ere ca cc||ca s|ae, W||| s|ae |c|es pc|a||a ca| ||e cac|
Steps 38: Frent Pins Insta||ed Steps 3B: Termina| B|ecks Insta||ed
Mainboard lC linished! There - you have pretty much finished the mainboard. You Will have to adjust the anle of the front
pins to suit the front plate, but Well take care of that When its time to install the front plate.
Get up from your chair, o raid the fride for a snack [Wash your hands first, lead-boy], and enjoy havin completed the first
task in buildin your Sumovore!
Note: S|ide the
Termina| b|ocks
together to make
one modu|e!
Step 20 & 21 - lk Edge Sensor lC Connectors and lM555:
Were noW Workin on a brand neW board - the Lde Sensor FCB. This board holds the front ede sensors, and the infrared
transmittin circuitry.
Lets start by installin the LlSSS chip in the spot labled lC+.
MAKE NOTE of the direction you install the chip! You Want the end With
the round dot in the corner of the chip to be near the notch in the symbol
printed on the FCB. This is the only chip Were not puttin in a chip carrier
because it Would make the circuit board too tall to properly fit on your
Sumovore, so its very important that you et it riht the first time. Check
the next assembly picture on this pae to make sure it matches What youve
done BLFkL you solder it in.
After the SSS installation, pivot the 0 connectors into positions Flu 1
and Flu Z. These Will provide mechanical and electrical connections to the
rest of the Sumovores circuitry.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Edge / IR Trnnsmitter E|ectronics -
Steps 20 & 23: LN555 and B0 edge cennecters
B|ep P1:
OO Eae ccaaec|crs
/ P, p|as||c s|ae ap
B|ep PO:
|as|a|| ||e |V555
ccraer ac| apl
Step 22, 23, & 24 - 100k, 30k and 240 Ohm kesistors:
lf it Werent for resistors, Wed have a Whole heckofalot less
solderin to do! Unfortunately, thats not the case, so lets et to
Work. You dont have to Watch the Way you install resistors, but
its alWays nice to have all the resistors lined up With all the old
bands on one side. lts the sin of a true Sumovore craftsman...
Start With the 100k [BroWn / Black / YelloW] resistor and solder it
into position kS. This resistor limits hoW much sinal is sent to
the transistor that poWers the lk emitter LLDs [yet to be installed].
FolloW up With the 3k [rane / Black / ked] resistor and install it
in position k. This resistor helps set the frequency that the
LlSSS chip Will flash our lk emitter LLDs.
kound up the five Z+0 hm [ked / YelloW / BroWn] resistors and
install them in positions k1, k, k, k10, and k11. These
resistors limit the current oin to the ede-detector module
emitters [yet to be installed].
B|ep PP:
1OO|
Hra / H||/ \e|
Hes|s|cr
B|ep P8:
8| 0r / H||/ Hea
Hes|s|cr
B|ep P4:
P4O c|a
Hea / \e| / Hra
Hes|s|cr / 5
Steps 22, 2S, & 24: Resisters
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Edge / IR Trnnsmitter E|ectronics -
Step 25 & 2 - lnstaIIing and anchoring the 20k Trimpot:
The "trimmin potentiometer is knoWn in the electronics biz as a "trimpot, so
et used to the term. This adjustable resistor tunes the SSS timer so We can dial
in exactly hoW on-tune We Want the lk emitters transmission frequency. We Want
this ability because theres a natural variation in the manufacture of parts, Which
means that no tWo resistors or capacitors [even if from the same batch] Will
measure exactly the same value. Because of this variation, We need the trimpot to
let us fine-tune the circuit.
There are occasions When We Will Want to de-tune the circuit to make it less
sensitive, like in loW-liht levels When the lk sensors are very responsive and see
tarets over + feet aWay, or the reflection off the sumo rin surface. Havin the
trimpot handy on the ede of the FCB for tunin your circuit Will be very useful
indeed!
Find your trimpot, and bend the les doWn as shoWn in the illustration. lnstall it
into the position marked TF1.
To anchor your trimpot, find a boat anchor, tie it to your trimpot, and heaveer over the side into the
deep blue sea... no, no, no. What We mean by anchorin is to lock the trimpot doWn so it doesnt
Wile around While you are tunin it. You can easily break off the trimpot if you dont. This is
llFkTANT, so dont skip this step even thouh it looks... skippable. lt isnt. Do it, or Well tell your
lommy on you.
Find one of the loner resistor clippins from your past assembly [yes, even if you have to carefully di
in the trash], and use it to straddle the trimpot. Solder it in place, so the clippin holds the trimpot
snuly doWn in place. See? That Wasnt so bad.
B|ep P5: Heaa ||e |es acWa,
||ea |as|a|| a| 'IP1'
Steps 26: Trimpet Anchered
Step 27 & 28 - Capacitors and Transistor
To function properly, the LlSSS timer chip also needs a
pair of capacitors. The tWo 0.001F [labled 10Z]
capacitors [look for a 10Z stamped on the side] are not
polarity sensitive, so stick them in at positions C and
C10, and solder them doWn.
The FNZZZZ is used to amplify the small sinal out from
the LlSSS timer to the tWo infrared LLDs youll be
installin. The transistor is polarity sensitive, so install it so
the curved shape of the transistor matches the one printed
on your circuit board. kemember, clean solderin counts,
so dont cause any accidental shorts on the close
transistor solder pads.
B|ep P7: O.OO1| capac||crs
|c 'OO' aaa 'O1O'
B|ep P8: PdPPPP
Iraas|s|cr a| '01'
Steps 27 & 28: Capaciters and Transister
This is what it sheu|d |eek |ike after
Capaciters and Transisters are
insta||ed
Steps 25: Preparing and Insta||ing the 20k Trimpet
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Edge / IR Trnnsmitter E|ectronics - y
Step 2 - lk lE0 lnstaIIation
The infrared LLD is just like the other LLDs, Which means it has to be installed the riht-Way
around, or it simply Wont Work. SHkT lead oes into the SUAkL pad. Unlike the other LLD
installations, We do not Want to make these sit flat aainst the circuit board - We Want them to be
spaced off just a bit so they can be bent around and aimed out the front of your Sumovore.
When installin the LLDs into the mountin pads, only insert them so far that the bump on the
lead disappears. You Want about 1/ [3mm] space. Solder the LLDs into place, then bend them
ently over to the outside ede of the circuit board.
Steps 2B: Infrared LED insta||atien
B|ep PO: |as|a|| |H |E0s / P
|c '|E04' aaa '|E05'. B|cr|
|eaa ces |c saare paal
IR LED Insta||atien
Step 30 - Edge Sensor lreparation
The kD111+ ede sensor is a combination unit, containin both an lk emittin LLD and an lk-sensitive phototransistor. The
active elements of both halves point doWnWard, so that any object beloW Will reflect the lk liht back to the sensor for detection.
As lon as youre not in the immediate vicinity of a liht-absorbin black-hole, these sensors do a ood job of readin
reflections Within a short distance. Unfortunately, these sensors dont quite fit our application - they point the Wron Way!
This is another of those important thins that you simply cannot be messin up, so WAKL UF! kEA0 THlS! lts llFkTANT!
Were oin to have to fold the sensor leads over in a careful Way to make them fit onto the circuit board, so lets start by
identifyin Which Way is up. Youll notice on the front face of the sensor that there is a dimple near one corner - thats LLAD
1[and the collector of the phototransistor]. Fold this lead and the one closest to it 0 up so they are flat to the sensor body.
Get one of the circuit board, and use it as a spacer for foldin over the other tWo leads - this Will set the proper spacin
distance for all the leads so they Will fit Well into the ede sensor FCB. ls this as clear as mud? kefer to the pictures beloW, and
all Will make sense.
Youll be doin this for all the ede sensors in your kit, Which may be tWo, four, or five, dependin on the complexity of kit you
received.
B|ep 8O: |aea||l] ||e
s|ae W||| ||e a|ap|e...
Dimp|e
...||ea lc|a ||e |eaas ca ||e
a|ap|e s|ae acWa l|a| |c ||e
seascr...
...aaa ase ||e c|rca||
ccara as a spacer |c
lc|a c.er ||e c||er |Wc
|eaa c.er ||e l|rs| pa|r.
Nete the c|ean senser insta||atien.
Ne teuching wires, ne se|der b|ebs,
and ne chece|ate stains.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Edge / IR Trnnsmitter E|ectronics - 8
Step 31 -Mounting the Edge Sensors: There can be as feW as tWo and as many as five ede sensors
installed on this circuit board. Your first priority is to install sensors at Lde1 and LdeS, as you Want
your Sumovore to detect the White line With the corners as a top priority.
lf you have tWo more sensors, install them at positions LdeZ and Lde+. When usin the
standard discrete brainboard, the sensors at Lde1 and LdeZ are Wired in parallel, as are
the ones at Lde+ and LdeS. This ives you a backup sensor in case if one sensor is
damaed in the heat of battle. lt also makes the line-folloWer behavior more stable.
Steps S3: Edge Senser Insta||atien
B|ep 81: |as|a|| Eae Beascrs
/ P |c 'Eae1' aaa 'Eae5'
Install sensors in positions 'Edge2 and 'Edge4 only if you have
four sensors in your kit (which you most likely do].
Insta||atien cemp|ete. Nete that a|| sensers sit
se the IR transmitter (c|ear) is a|ways en the |eft
side.
When usin a microprocessor brainboard, all the sensors are independently available
to the microprocessor, and there is the option to install a fifth sensor at position
Lde3 Which is useful When prorammin an advanced line-folloWer robot.
Finished! There - that's what your comp|ete Edge Sensor oard shou|d
|ook |ike when you're finished. Cne step c|oser to Sumovoraciousness...
A sensor gets installed in position 'Edge3 only if you have a
microprocessor brainboard add-on (the extra sensor is included
in the add-on kit].
Step 32 & 33 - The Chip Carrier and 74HCT240: Were oin to install a
Z0-pin chip carrier first, simply because its an uly mess to desolder a
backWards 1+HCTZ+0. keally, you dont Want to do it.
}ust like When you installed the chip carrier for the mainboards tWo chips,
you Want to mate the position of the carriers notch With the notch printed on
the circuit board at position lCS-1+HCTZ+0. Yes, We knoW it doesnt say
lCS-Chip Carrier. Dont be a smarty-pants!
After youve finished insertin the carrier, find your 1+HCTZ+0, and insert it
into the carrier, matchin up the notch in the chip With the notch on the
carrier [this notch-alinment-thin is pretty cool, eh?].
Note: [referrin back to step
+/S...] A major reason for
usin a chip carrier is so that
you can isolate the chip durin
assembly, then press it in riht
at the end of the job. lf youve
had some bad luck lately and
dont Want to risk it, just
install the carrier NW, and
install the chip near the end of
constructions
The 0iscrete rainboard: BLAl robots usually have simple, robust controller systems, and the Sumovore folloWs this
tradition. Althouh Were usin a 1+HCTZ+0 octal invertin buffer chip in the circuitry, there arent any truly radical BLAl-style
or analo concepts behind it, so We refer to this brainboard bein "discrete, as in "composed of many separate pieces.
Buildin a sumo robot brain can be done as simple as usin three DFDT relays [see the book "}unkbots, Bubots, and Bots on
Wheels], but in doin so, there Wont be a very Wide scope of behaviors in the sumo robot. n the other hand, Weve built
over Z0 Sumovore prototypes, each time refinin What We can do With a simple controller circuit, and indeed, theres some
subtle eleance to the discrete brainboard, like:
Deceleration before reversin the earmotors to keep the sumo plate ede from liftin off the surface
pponent sensor false-trier filterin
Smooth left / riht opponent trackin
"Sumo-dance inhibitin [so the Sumovore knoWs to try somethin different after S seconds of lockin up With the
opponent]
"Lde-chare inhibitin [so the Sumovore doesnt repeatedly head-on chare the sumo rin ede]
Selectable "Line-folloWer or "Sumo mode [so you can use the Sumovore for line-folloWin contests]
ptional rear-lookin sensors [active lookin, or passive sensin of opponents lk transmissions]
We desined this brainboard to be very robust and straihtforWard to build and use, so even if you are plannin to use a
microprocessors With your Sumovore, you can use the discrete brainboard as a benchmark to compare your microprocessor
brains aainst. Not sure if theres a bu in your code or if its a hardWare problem? Trade out the microprocessor brainboard for
the discrete brainboard and see if the problem oes aWay. Last minute competition chanes mess up your code? You can alWays
fall back on the discrete brainboard. For these reasons, We encourae you to build this brainboard even if you have every
intention of eventually ploppin a microprocessor on your Sumovore.
B|ep 8P: |as|a|| O||p
Oarr|er a| '|O5'...
B|ep 88: ...||ea |as|a|| 74hOIP4O
|a|c c||p carr|er. 0r |l ]ca're lee||a
aa|ac|], Wa|| aa||| a|| sc|aer|a |s acae
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics - p
Steps S2 & SS: Carrier and 74HCT240
Nete: If yeu're using Hydre-X er simi|ar se|der with water-se|uab|e f|ux, be sure te wash the beard eff at the end ef censtructien! Fai|ure te
de se wi|| cause erratic behavier in yeur Sumevere!
Cemp|ete carrer & chip insta||atien. Nete
the netch pesitien!
NOTE: As Were presently updatin the documentation, Wed like to Warn you that you should do step +1 NW, before step
3+, then come back. ltll make assembly easier - trust us. <host-voice N>Beee foreWaarrrrned! <host voice FF>
The reverse-and-turn feature is controlled by the tWo Z-me trimpots. Lach trimpot sets hoW lon the Sumovore spends in
reverse-and-turn mode When that particular corner is triered by a White line.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Discrete rnin E|ectronics - +o
Step 34 - 2M Trimpots Ior keverse-and-Turn: The trimpots make
it easier to adjust your Sumovore for best performance. Solder each
Z leaohm trimpot to the three pads that are joined by lines and
labled pt TFS and pt TF. Dont
Worry about Where to set them at the
moment, as Well cover that later in the
tunin section.
Finished Insta||atien
B|ep 84: |as|a|| ||e
PV |r|apc|s a|
pcs|||cas 'IP5' aaa
'IPG'
Steps S4: 2 Neg Trimpets (x 2)
Step 35, 3, & 37: 1k, 47k & 470k kesistors: A ood number of the components on the discrete brainboard are resistors,
so lets et to Work.
Start With the four 1k [BroWn / Black / ked] resistors and solder them into positions k1+, k1S, k1, and k11. TWo of
these resistors limit the poWer oin to the indicator LLDs, and the other tWo limit the current in the lk sensor over-ride portion
of the circuit [When it sensors detect the ede and need to steer it aWay from the ede].
The +1k [YelloW / Furple / rane] resistors
sit in positions k1, k1, kZ0, kZ1,
kZZ, kZ3, kZ+, and kZS [yes We
knoW We could have just said k1-ZS, but
then We couldnt say We Wrote a detailed
construction manual, could We?]. These
resistors are used for many purposes,
includin lk sensor biasin, ede-ram
behavior suppression, sumo-dance behavior
suppression, and fosterin World peace. lf
you Want full details, please check the
schematics at the end of the manual.
The sinle +10k [YelloW / Furple / YelloW]
resistor in position kZ1 is part of the S second startup delay circuit.
This step sets up the resistor values used to confiure the startup timer for your Sumovore. nce confiured, you shouldnt
need to make any further adjustments. This brainboard uses a pair of inverters, capacitors, and resistors arraned in series to
create an delay of ideally S seconds. ne of these inverter / capacitor / resistor staes is desined to let you tWeak the startup
timer so you can tune your S second startup delay.
B|ep 85: |as|a||
1| res|s|crs / 4
a| pcs|||cas 'H14' |c
'H17'
Steps S5 & S6: 3k and 47k resisters
B|ep 8G: |as|a|| 47|
res|s|crs / 8 a| pcs|||cas
'H18' |c 'HP5'
B|ep 87: |as|a|| 47O|
res|s|cr a| pcs|||ca
'HP7'
Step 38 - 2M Trimpot Ior Startup 0eIay: lnore
resistor location kZ entirely, and solder the remainin
Zl trimpot into position pt TFS. Turnin it to the
riht [clockWise] adds time to the delay, to the left
[counter-clockWise] removes time.
B|ep 88: |as|a||
PV |r|apc| a| '0p| IP4'
|acre 'HPG' ea||re|]
Step S6: Insta||ing 2Ntrimpet
Insta||atien at 'Dpt TP4'
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Discrete rnin E|ectronics - ++
Step 3a - 0iodes: There are eiht diodes [yup, not 1, not , ] in your
Sumovores discrete brain. Diodes are polarity sensitive, and they have a
black band to shoW Which Way is the cathode [neative end]. lnstall the
diodes With the black band in the same position as the band printed on
the circuit board in positions D1, DZ, D3, D+, DS, D, D1,
and D [WheW!].
Step 3b - OptionaI keset 0iode: After some experimentin, Weve
found that installin another diode into position kZ makes the reset
sWitch deactivate the Sumovore much better than just a resistor. Not
absolutely necessary, but We recommend it. Note that the black band is
installed toWards the bottom.
Step 40 - 0.47l Capacitors: The four 0.+1F [labled +1+]
capacitors et installed in positions C11, C1Z, C13, and C1+. The
capacitors arent polarity sensitive, so dont Worry about the Way they et
installed.
B|ep 8Oa: |as|a|| a|caes a|
pcs|||cas '01' |c '08'
ac|e cr|ea|a||cal
B|ep 4O: |as|a|| O.47|
capac||crs a| 'O11' |c 'O14'
S
t
e
p
s

S
B

&

4
0
:

D
i
e
d
e
s

a
n
d

C
a
p
a
c
i
t
e
r
s
Step 41 & 42: 10k Trimpots & lE0s: The 10k sinle-turn trimpots
are hoW youll be settin the sensitivity of the ede detectors. Turnin
them to the riht [clockWise] makes them more sensitive, the other Way
[counter-clockWise] makes time o backWards [just a counter-clockWise
joke there...].
lnstall the 10k [labeled 103 on the side] trimpots in positions TFZ and
TF3.
The LLDs shoW When the ede sensors have detected the ede. Lverybody
likes blinky lihts - its What makes robots [and Star Trek command
consoles] cool. kemember, LLDs need to o in the riht Way, so make sure
the flat spot on the LLDs shoulder matches the flat spot on printed on
the circuit board at positions LLD and LLD1.
B|ep 41:
|as|a|| 1O| s|a|e-|ara |r|apc|
a| 'IPP' aaa 'IP8'
B|ep 4P:
|as|a|| |E0 a| pcs|||ca '|E0G'
aaa '|E07' Wa|c| pc|ar||]l
B|ep 48: IWc G.8| |aa|a|aa capac||crs
a| pcs|||cas 'O15' aaa 'O1G'
Steps 43 & 42: 30k Trimpets and LEDs
B|ep 44:
Hese| BW||c|
|a|c 'BwI1'
Step 43 & 44: .8l Capacitors and keset Switch: The
tWo .F capacitors are installed to C1S and C1, and
are part of the startup circuitry. These capacitors are polarity
sensitive, so be sure the shorter le oes into the square pad
[square pads usually indicate -, Which is What the caps
short le is]. The cap also shoWs a little "+ sin near one
le [the loner le], just so you have tWo Ways to identify the
les.
The sWitch is a bit tiht to install at position SWT3 [sorry,
We should have done that earlier in the assembly process],
and resets the startup timer When released. lts also a bit
hard to reach, but that Was planned that Way so it doesnt
accidently et hit by the opponent in the heat of combat.
B|ep 8Oc cp||caa|:
|as|a|| a|cae |a |||s
cr|ea|a||ca |a|c HPG
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Discrete rnin E|ectronics - +z
B|ep 45: |as|a|| 8-p|a
|eaaer aaaeraea|| a|
'P5' aaa 'PG'. Va|e
sare ||'s s|ra|||
ap-aaa-acWal
Steps 45 & 46: 8 and 4 pin insta||atien UNDERNEATH!
Step 45 & 4 - Eight and lour lin Header kaiIs: Heres another one of those tricky installs, Where We Want you to install the
parts on the underside of the circuit board. Were oin to install the pins that Will connect the Discrete Brainboard to the
lainboard. Since Were sure you dont Want to install the brains in upside-doWn, just remember that they all are soldered in
from the bottom. Dont Worry, Well be remindin you to do this several times yet.
Take the tWo -pin headers and install them in positions FS and F, With the short end bein soldered to the board. lts quite
important to make sure that the pins are installed straiht up-and-doWn, 0 derees to the circuit board. The best Way to do
this is by solderin only one pin on the header, then eyeball hoW its sittin. lts easy to remelt the solder and tWeak the
alinment if only one pin is soldered. When youre happy With the alinment, o crazy and solder in the remainin 1 pins.
Use the same procedure on the +-pin headers, and install them in positions F1 and F. Same drill - solder only one pin and
make sure that the header is installed straiht up-and-doWn.
B|ep 4G: |as|a|| 4-p|a
|eaaer aaaeraea|| a|
'P7' aaa 'P8'. Va|e
sare ||'s s|ra|||
ap-aaa-acWal
Fina| Insta||atien. See? Pins Neunted UNDERNEATH!
A Tip Ior the rave: Want an ideal Way to mount your pins? lnstead of the above steps, mount the pins into the sockets on the
main board. Drop the Discrete brainboard onto the pins, and solder a pin on each end of the pin strip. Full the brainboard out
[With all + strips], and finish solderin. NoW youre uaranteed that each pin Will mate With each socket!
Warning: You may melt the sockets if you take too lon tack-solderin in the pins! Thats Why you have to be brave doin it this
Way! BUT, its also the best Way to make sure everythin alins up nicely!
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the Discrete rnin E|ectronics - +
Step 47 - OptionaI line loIIower / Mini-Sumo SeIector: [Welcome to you, if you have just jumped over here from step 3+!]
lf you dont knoW, dont care, or knoW but dont care What line-folloWer is, or simply Want to et the solderin over With, you
can totally skip this step. Line-folloWer is a neat event, as poWer is a secondary to sensors and your skill in tunin the sensors.
All Were oin to do is add some pins and jumpers so you can activate line-folloWer mode. lf you dont have any lines in your
house, then its obvious you should skip this step.
Start by usin a sharp knife or razor to cut a small chunk of the chocolate bar youve ot hidden in your desk, and eat it. Feel
more enerized? Good. NoW take that same knife [after cleanin off the chocolate...] and use it to scrape throuh the red
maskin and the underlyin copper tracks at the tWo points marked by pt 1. By default, the discrete brainboard is hard-Wired
for mini-sumo mode, so by doin this, youre preparin the circuit connections to be re-routed for line-folloWer mode.
Solder the four jumper pairs to the positions at }FZ/3. lts a bit tricky, as the pins Will fall out When you turn the circuit board
upside-doWn. The solution? Have a friend hold them in place from the bottom With some needle-nose pliers While you solder
them in, or use a small ball of clay to keep it stuck in until its soldered. lf youre ood With a solderin iron, use a left-over
chunk of lC-holdin foam stuck on the lon-pin side to keep them from fallin out. Z-second solderin Wont melt it.
After the pins are soldered in, install the tWo jumpers across the tWo jumper pin pairs on the klGHT side, in the set labled
"lS [lS - for "lini Sumo]. lf you Want line-folloWer mode, reposition the tWo jumpers to the LLFT, Where it says "LF
[Line folloWer mode is covered in the "Troubleshootin section].
B|ep A:
|aea||l]
||e |races
|c ca|
B|ep H:
Be.er ||cse
|Wc |racesl
B|ep O: |as|a|| ||e jaaper pa|rs / 4
|a pcs|||cas 'JPP/8'
B|ep 0: |as|a|| ||e jaapers ca ||e
p|a pa|r ca ||e 'VB' s|ae r||| s|ae
||a|s|eal Heaa] lcr a|a|-saac
cr ||ae-lc||cWer ccape||||casl
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the ody - +
Lnouh of the continuous solderin - lets et to Work actually ivin our Sumovore a body! Start With the electronics
mainboard, as its the ...main board... for the Whole robot.
Collect the metal baseplate, and associated screWs & spacers. Not sure Which is Which? Have a ruler handy to measure their
lenths.
Step 1 - Mount the asepIate to the lC: Use tWo
of the #Z x 3/ self-threadin screWs [these are the
ones that dont have a sharp point], and screW them
into the FCB at the tWo front positions [as shoWn].
Theyll lihtly thread themselves into the FCB so they
stay put.
B|ep 1: |aser|
=P / 8/8" se|l-
||reaa|a screWs |c
lrca| P pcs|||cas
(screw shown
actua| site - note
b|unt tip)
B|ep P: Vcaa| casep|a|e
|c POH W||| P screWs aaa
P a]|ca Was|ers
Step 2 - NyIon Spacer: Fut a 1/ nylon spacer on each screW,
and thread the Whole Works to the baseplate. 0on't Iorget these
spacers! These spacers keep the electronics from potentially
shortin out aainst the metal baseplate [usually, a bad thin!].
Youll need a firm rip on your screWdriver to fully drive the self-
threadin screWs into the metal baseplate - dont be afraid to use
some pressure!
Screws mount
here
Step 3 - kear Screw lnstaIIation: With the front tWo screWs in tiht, you
should be able to slide the nylon spacer betWeen the FCB and baseplate so its
held there by friction. This Will make installin the final screW and Washer
pretty easy.
B|ep 8:
8/8" se|l-||reaa|a screW.
0ca'| lcre| ||e
a]|ca spacerl
asep|ate mounting to FC
comp|ete!
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the ody - z
Step 5 Mounting the Motors:
The baseplate makes mountin the motors a snap.
The holes auto-alin to the holes in the motor and the nub
just behind the output shaft.
Fick a motor, alin it up, and use tWo #+-Z0 x lon
thread-formin screWs to secure it to the plate!
B|ep 5: Vcaa| ac|crs, eac|
W||| |Wc =4-PO / "|ca screWs
s|cWa ac|aa| s|te
Dptiena| rear meter stream|ining
B|ep 5a 0p||caa|:
Oa| ||e ac|cr re|a|aer
aaa sa|p cll ||e
re|a|aer acaa|
Cut band
Snip off mount
Step 5a Trimming kear Motor {OptionaI):
You may Want to consider trimmin off one of the motor retainin strap
mounts. "And Why Would We Want to do that? you may ask.
Firstly, it makes your Sumovore a bit smaller, Which is ood considerin
that the Sumovore is very close to the maximum size limit.
Secondly, if [and When] the Sumovore ets tipped backWards in the heat
of competition, the strap mount lifts the robot off the Wheels,
practically uaranteein that it Wont recover from bein tipped back.
Shave the mount off, and the Sumovore keeps traction for over 0 of
tippin, Which lets it keep on fihtin loner!
You dont need to do this step noW, as you can do it after youve finished your Sumovore, but it is more convenient to do it at
this time.
Step 4 lreparing the Motors with 0.1l Noise
Supression Capacitors:
Some of the electronics on the Sumovore can be sensitive
to the electrical noise that the motors make, so Were
oin to nip that in the bud noW With a pair of 0.1F
capacitors per motor.
Use some sandpaper or a file [or if desperate, the scratchy
teeth of pliers] to shine up part of the motor body in tWo
spots, each near each of the motor terminals.
Solder each capacitor from one terminal to one of the
shiny spots on the motor body. This job is simplified if
you pre-tin the motors shiny spot With a dab of solder.
B|ep 4c: Vcaa| a capac||cr |c eac| s|ae
cl ||e ac|cr, W||| cae |e sc|aerea |c
||e |ac, ||e c||er |c ||e cca]
B|ep 4c: Pre-||a ||e s||a] spc|
W||| a c|| cl sc|aer - || aa] |a|e
a W|||e |l ]ca |a.e a ccc|er sc|aer|a
|rcal
B|ep 4a: Use a l||e |c scrape aaa aa|e
a s||a] spc| ca ||e ac|cr aear ||e
ac|cr ccaaec||ca |ac
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the ody -
Rear motor gets right
termina| b|ock (b|ack, red)
Step 8 & - Wiring up the lront and kear Motors: Start With the front motor
[nearest the pins] and solder the remainin Wire you clipped from the battery pack
to the terminals on the motor. lf you solder the red Wire to the motor tab nearest the
mainboard and the black Wire on the other tab, youll be matchin What Were doin
and Wont have motor rotation problems later.
kun these Wires over to the terminal blocks, and strip / insert the black Wire into the
terminal block hole nearest the corner, and screW the retainer screW doWn. Strip and
insert the red Wire into the next hole, and tihten it doWn.
The terminal block is sittin riht next to the rear motor, so We only need a bit of
Wire to connect it up.
Clip 1 [ZSmm] of the red and black Wire off the + AA battery holder, and use these
pieces to connect the rear motor to the terminal block, aain by solderin the red
Wire to the motor tab closest to the mainboard and the black Wire to the other motor
tab. lnsert and tihten the black Wire into the next available terminal block hole, With
the red Wire in the last position.
There - youre sooo close to finishin your Sumovore, youre probably oin to
inore any bodily demands to eat or sleep until youre finished!
Get seme wire fer the ether
meter frem the ether battery pack
Neter wiring te termina| b|eck finished
Front motor gets |eft
termina| b|ock (b|ack, red)
B|ep O: Bc|aer s|cr| W|re c||pp|as |c ||e
rear ac|cr aaa ccaaec| |c |era|aa| c|cc|
2AA Battery Pack Insta||ed and Wired
Step & 7 - lnstaIIing the 2AA attery HoIder: Snip off most of the battery holders Wires so theres only 3cm [1-1/+]
left. Solder the Wires to the battery poWer terminals on the top of the mainboard, red to
round pad, black to square.
ScreW this bad-boy doWn With
the tWo included #Zx1/+
pointy screWs. lf the holes
feel loose, melt a bit of
solder into the holes,
reducin the hole size until the
screWs can et a ood "bite.
B|ep 8: Bc|aer ca||er]-pac| W|re ca|-clls |c
lrca| ac|cr c|ac| c ac|cr |ac aeares|
aa|accara,||ea ccaaec| |c |era|aa| c|cc|
Step 6 & 7 - 2AA Battery He|der
Insta||atien and Wiring
B|ep 7:
Iac| PAA pac|
ce|Weea seascrs
aaa screW acWa
B|ep G:
O||p 1-1/4" cll
PAA |c|aer W|res,
Bc|aer |c aa|accara
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the ody -
Step 10 - lront lIate lnstaIIation: NoW Were ettin to the point Where the Sumovore is beinnin to look like a real robot!
Were oin to install the front plate, but before We do, We Want the pins that connect to the front ede sensor board to match
the same anle as the front plate. Do this by first manually placin the plate up aainst the mainboard [as if it Were already screWed
on], and then examinin the anle of the pins. To start With, theyll be straiht up-and-doWn. Fut doWn the front plate and pick up
your favourite pin-bendin tool [We like needle-nose pliers for this job] to rab each set of four and ently bend the set toWards
the plate. When the pin anle matches the anle of the front plate, youre ready to screW the front plate on.
lnstall the front plate With the larer three thread-formin screWs, from the topside of the mainboard into the holes of the steel
tabs. Thread-formin screWs are a bit difficult to screW into the holes in the steel, so make sure you have a phillips screWdriver
With a comfortable rip.
When done, install the front ede sensor board and see hoW it fits. lt should slide in riht next to the front plate, With little
problem.
Checking pin a|ignment with the p|ate ang|e...
Nepe, net the same!
A few bends |ater, and the pin ang|e matches the p|ate
Screwing the p|ate en with S thread-ferming screws
Frent p|ate screwed en, with edge
senser circuit beard pins a|igned
B|ep 1O: A||a p|as |c aa|e cl lrca| p|a|e, ||ea screW ca
W||| 8 ||reaa-lcra|a screWs
Test insta||atien ef frent edge senser beard
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the ody -
Step 11 - ottom attery lack lnstaIIation: Lets attach the quad AA battery pack holder to the Sumovore.
We prefer to attach the pack, then solder it to the battery connection points beloW in front of the motor, but some people prefer
to solder the Wires, then attach the pack. Your decision [no real advantae either Way]. }ust make sure that youre solderin to the
riht battery connections, as theres one for the ZAA holder, and one for the +AA holder, and they cant be reversed! Bad
Sumovore builder, BAD! lake sure your battery connections are oin to the ones shoWn in the pictures, and all Will be fine.
The baseplate has tWo holes for acceptin the lon #Z x 1-1/+
thread-formin screW that pass throuh the tWo custom holes in
the battery pack. The standard holes in the battery pack simply
dont Work, so Weve custom drilled tWo neW holes to match the
holes in the baseplate.
Before screWin the battery pack in, use a sharp knife and cut
some of the rib aWay from around the hole. This rib Will interfere
With the head of the screW, so trim it back about 3mm [1/]
from each side of the
hole, flush doWn to the
bottom of the pack.
Drop the screWs in, alin
up the holes, and secure
the battery pack to the
baseplate. lt Will take a bit
of force to make the
screWs o in the first time
[remember, youre formin threads in the baseplates metal], but dont overdo it. you only
have to make the pack ently snu up to the motors.
B|ep 1P: Ir|a acWa aaa sc|aer ||e
ca||er] |c|aer W|res |c ||e '' aaa
'-' sc|aer paas ca aaaers|ae.
4 //
Boe|y Poc|
Ccnnec|cn
Pc|ns
Boe|y Poc|
Mcun|ng Sc|ew
c|es
Step 12 - ottom attery lack SoIdering: NoW that your battery holder is firmly in
place, cut doWn the Wires to a suitable lenth and solder them to the underside of the
mainboard on the riht side [vieWed from bottom].
You can see the solder points just ahead of the riht motor [vieWed from bottom], With a
square pad labeled - and a round pad labeled +. These pads are clearly labeled +Batt-
on the topside, but its mostly obscured by the top battery pack. Black Wire oes to -, the
red to + [but you kneW that already, klGHT?!? f course. Sumovore builders are smart
people].
B|ep 11: |cca|e casep|a|e |c|es
lcr 4AA ca||er] pac| |c|aer screWs
Nce: Boe|y Poc|
w||es o|e ne|e
||m ||cs owoy f|cm eoges
cf mcun|ng nc|es
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the ody -
Step 13, 14 & 15 - rainboard lnstaIIation, attery lnstaIIation and lnitiaI lower-up: Yup, you read riht - time to fetch the
brainboard, them batteries, and et ready to o. Gather up your batteries, but before you o Willy-nilly [except anybody named
"Willy - only you may o Willy-nilly] and install the batteries and brainboard, you must check a feW thins.
1 - Wires from the top battery holder are properly soldered [black to square pad, red to round]
Z - Wires from the bottom battery holder are properly soldered [black to square pad, red to round]
3 - Batteries are NT Wired in parallel [l.e.: Sharin same solder connections to mainboard]
+ - lotor enable sWitch is in the left position
S - FoWer sWitch is in the left position
lnstall the brainboard on the rear of your Sumovore. Careful to alin up all the pins
then push the board into place. With Z+ pins connectin the tWo boards, it may take a
fair bit of push to et the brainboard installed. Dont bend any pins over! Fress it
doWn until the board seats - youll see 1/+ of bare pin left. This is normaI -
exposed pins have no effect on the performance of the robot.
All ood? Good. lnstall S of the batteries. Then as you install the last battery, pay
special attention to your nose, finers, and ears. lf you SlLLL anythin strane,
FLLL heat, or HLAk any sizzlin, FF THAT BATTLkY UT! Those are nasty sins
that somethin Went Wron, most likely somethin like a solder blob shortin out
poWer connections, or you soldered BTH battery holders to the same point. lf you
pop the battery in and nothin happens... Well, thats a ood thin at this moment.
Next, slide the poWer sWitch to the riht [thats the bier sWitch of the tWo].
Hopefully, the red LLD riht next to the sWitch Will illuminate. This LLD is Wired in series With the lk transmittin LLDs at the front
of the robot, so if this red LLD doesnt liht up, theres an lk transmittin problem. Ummm... you do have your ede sensor
board still installed, dont you?
lf the red LLD is on, then pick up your Sumovore and touch an ede sensor. kemember, the sensors are lookin for a reflection,
so if youre testin your Sumovore on a White table surface, itll think its continually readin a White ede and activatin the
"reverse-and-turn behavior. Does the reen LLD on the corner of the discrete brainboard liht up When you et close to the ede
sensor? Try turnin the 10k sinle-turn trimpot for that side clockWise [adds sensitivity]. lt should turn on, and stay on for a
second or tWo after you remove your finer. Try it With the other side. lt Works too? Lxcellent...excellent!
NoW, slide the motor enable sWitch to the riht [the on position]. The motors
Will both activate, unless if youve turned the poWer off then on, at Which point
the startup delay circuit is doin its job [delay could be from 3 to 10 seconds
before motor activation]. Activatin an ede sensor Will stop one motor and
reverse the other for a short duration, then both o forWard aain. Check both
sides for similar behavior. Thins look ood? Lxcellent!
Last test - the opponent detection sensors. Dont fret if this doesnt Work riht
aWay, as this part Will most likely need immediate tunin. Brin your palm to the
front left or riht corner of the robot. lf the LLD near that sensor lihts up,
youve been seen! lf not, you most likely Will have to tune it. Fut your Sumovore
doWn Within [1Scm] of an object, like a book or tissue box. Turn the Z0k
multiturn trimpot on the front sensor board Z0 turns to the left, then sloWly
turn it to the riht, countin the rotations until you see the "opponent
detected LLD come on. kemember that number, and keep turnin the screW.
When the LLD oes off, averae that number and reset the trimpot to that value. This Will be the most sensitive your Sumovore
can be. f course, bein too sensitive can be bad, so feel free to "de-tune your robot so it only detects object Within 1 or
inches [1 to Z1cm].
Tunin example: LLD turns on at S turns, and turns off aain at 1Z turns. [S + 1Z] / Z ~ .S turns. Start at the beinnin, and
turn .S turns to et to maximum sensitivity.
Step 13: Insta|| brainboard
Step 14: Insta|| batteries
Step 15: Check for various b|inky |ights! (See text)
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ui|ding the ody - 8 / Troub|eshooting
Step 1: lnstaIIing the WheeIs: No maic or mystery here. Well, maybe just a bit. First mount the traction bands onto the Wheel
hub. The easiest Way Weve found is to stretch the rubber band betWeen your thumb and forefiner [the one you point With When
youre not shootin rubber bands], and pry the hub in onto the bottom half. Then tilt it in so the top half seats aainst the other
half of the rubber band.
When youve mounted the bands, put them onto the shaft of the ear motors and secure them With the remainin tWo #Z x 1/+
pointy screWs. NoW you can repeat the tests you did in step 1S With a live, movin Sumovore!
Stretch band between finders... ...s|ide bottom of whee| in... ...and s|ide top of whee| in!
Hopefully this section Will be totally disrearded, but if youre still readin, then you must have a Sumovore problem. Lets see
What We can do to fix you up.
The first level of inspection is to carefully examine all your solder joints to make sure you have sufficient solder on each, and that
theyre all nice and shiny. About 10% of all failures We see are due to poor solderin so dont simply say "Uhh... my solderin is
just fine - there must be a bad component! Take the time to o over your connections aain, even if you have to clip ear motor
zip-ties and peel sticky tape apart. You can alWays et more zip-ties and use hot-lue for the motors if you really need to. lf the
basic solderin inspection didnt reveal any failures, then lets use a bit more analytical process to isolate the problem.
ked lE0 not coming on? lf the red LLD at the back isnt turnin on, there is most likely a failure on the ede sensor circuit
board, or theres a problem With poWer connections. Check for:
Battery polarity & chare - are batteries all in the riht-Way around, and have a full chare?
Battery pack connections are correct? Black Wires o to square pads, remember?
There is a set of battery connection points for each pack, so make sure each pack is Wired to the riht place.
The lk LLDs and rear red LLD are in the riht Way around? They Wont liht up if theyre in backWards.
Front ede sensor circuit board sittin on all pins? lts easy to accidently move 1 pin over so youre only connectin to 1.
lf you have a voltmeter, check the voltae at the rear of the mainboard near the poWer sWitch in the box labeled DlAG1.
You should measure volts [the full battery voltae] betWeen a round pad and a square pad When the poWer sWitch is on. lf
not, theres a bad poWer connection someplace...
Sumovore Spinning on the spot? First identify if one motor is dead, or spinnin in reverse. lf its spinnin, then the simple
ansWer is to o back to the terminal blocks and reverse the connections for that motor. lf the motor is dead, check for:
Sufficient insulation stripped off Wire oin into terminal block. Bare Wire has to be clamped in the block.
Try manually spinnin the motor With poWer off. lf its considerably hard than spinnin the functional motor, you most likely
have a shorted motor. Check the motor terminal tabs and make sure nothin is shortin aainst the metal motor body
Sumovore SuspiciousIy SIow? Check the LZ3D installation. ltll Work backWards, but much sloWer than normal!
Edge Sensors AlWAYS Triggering? ne or more of your kD111+ ede sensors are in backWards!
Troub|eshooting
lore troubleshootin ansWers on the next pae...
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Troub|eshooting (cont'd)
Sumovore not seeing the white edge Iine? Start With the front ede sensors board [ood thin that sensor board is easily
removable, eh?]. The sensors are pretty ood at detectin White, so leavin the trimpots in the middle position as a default is a
ood place to start. Youll only need to really mess With them When youre settin up for line-folloWer mode.
ne or more lk reflector sensors may be in backWards. lake sure theyre ALL in the correct Way around.
The lk reflector sensors have a very short rane, so if theyre further than 1/+ [1mm] from the surface, they may not see
the line. Full the sensor board doWnWard a bit on the pins and see if that makes a difference.
Try tunin them to maximum sensitivity by turnin the sinle-turn 10k trimpots on the corner fully clockWise.
The lk reflector sensors are sensitive to infrared liht, Which means What you miht think is reflective may not be to the
sensors. keular paper reflects lk Well, as do your finertips. lany White plastics look "transparent to lk.
The Sumovore needs the front lk circuit board to be installed to shoW any sin of life. lf it isnt in properly or is installed
backWards, nothin Will happen!
Sumovore not seeing Opponents? lts time to Watch those red LLDs!
The rear red LLD indicates that the lk transmitters are Workin. lf theres no liht, one [or both] of the clear lk LLDs may be
in backWards, or the rear red LLD is in backWards.
lf your rear red LLD is on, but still no detectin is happenin, make sure youve folloWed the lk transmit frequency tunin
We discussed in "Buildin the Body - Step 11. TWiddle that Z0k multiturn trimpot on the ede-detection board!
Check the lk detectors are Workin by usin any TV / VCk / DVD remote control. Foint it at each lk detector on the top
corners of the mainboard While pressin any button. Does the red LLD riht behind the detector blink? lf yes, the problem
lies With the lk transmitter. lf no, then make sure you have the indicator LLDs installed the correct Way and the solder
connections are secure. lf you have a multimeter, see if you can measure S volts betWeen the middle and riht pin of the lk
receiver.
lf youre fortunate enouh to have an oscilloscope or frequency-countin multimeter, try measurin the frequency at the
points labeled "DlAGZ - SSS utput on the ede-sensor board. You should see a nice square Wave pattern, or a
frequency count in the 30 to 0kHz rane. Tune it to be betWeen 3+kHz and +ZkHz for best performance.
There are ite Marks on my Sumovore! Stop throWin it for your do to catch. And keep your cat off your Workbench.
l don't have enough traction! Try layerin both traction bands onto your Wheels for a softer tire. And clean them betWeen
matches With rubbin alcohol. And dont foret, you can "bulk up your Sumovore to S00 rams for maximum traction!
My Startup timer is too long/Short! Ah, thats easy to fix. lf your Sumovore has the trimpot on the top riht side of your
discrete brainboard, then turn it clockWise for loner delay, counter-clockWise for shorter.
My Sumovore is turning too Much/Not Enough when it sees the white Iine! Another easy fix. The tWo trimpots at the middle
of the discrete brainboard each adjust the time the Sumovore spends backin up and turnin When that side ets activated. lf its
barely backin off and turnin When the riht ede sensor touches the line, then turn the middle-riht trimpot more clockWise.
line-IoIIower mode sucks! Line-folloWer competitions require finesse and skillful tunin. Line folloWer mode uses the black line
to turn off the motor on the side that detects the black line, Which rotates the Sumovore back until the ede sensor no loner sees
the black line. Heres the proper tunin procedure:
1] Turn both 10k sinle-turn trimpots full counter-clockWise.
Z] Flace your Sumovore on a White section of your line-folloWer track.
3] SloWly turn each pot clockWise until the motor on that same side activates.
+] kepeat for the other side
lf youre oin to be doin lots of line folloWer, you may Want to take advantae of the holes on the front sensor plate near the
ede, and mount a loW-friction slider to make your Sumovore quicker and more maneuverable.
My Sumovore has edges sensors that are touchy and hard to tune! This is more common if you have a brihter-coloured
front plate, like yelloW or White. The lk liht from the ede sensors is bein reflected around by the backside of the plate causin
false readins, so colour the backside of the front plate black to reduce these unWanted reflections.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Fu|| Schemntic Dingrnm
100k

+
+
+
3k

20k Trimpot
555
0.01F
IR RED IR
240

240

10k Trimpot
+
M
M
47k

47k

47k

47k

47k

47k

1k

1k

0.47F
0.47F
+ +
To SWT2
IR
IR Left
IR Right
+
+
To IR Left
0.1F
1M

1k

6.8F
6.8F
6.8F
IR
+
+
To IR Right
1M

1k

6.8F
R5
C9
R6
TP1
Q1
LED4 LED5 LED3
R1 R2
R27
R26
R3 R4
0.1F
C4
C5
C3 C2
Left Right
11 10 9 8
2 1 3 4
C16
C15
LED1 LED2
13 12 5 6 1
2
3
1
2
3
SWT3
10k Trimpot
470k

470k

IC4
R7
R11
TP2
TP3
+
+
2 18
4 16
15 5 6 14
13 7 8 12
C13
C14
R13
R12
470k

470k

R15
R14
LED7
LED6
D8
D7
R22
R23
R20 47k

R21
Edge-Ramming
Inhibitor
R18
D2
D1
R19
D3
R24
1k

1k

R25
D4
R17
R16
11 9
D5
D6
C11
C12
6.8F
Det1 Det2
6.8F
C9
0.01F
+
+
2N2222
QRD1114
QRD1114
+ +
5 Second Startup
38khz IR emitter
38khz IR Object Sensors
10 15
11 14
Left
Right
2 3 7 6
+
2937
SWT1
6* AA
2
1
3
5V out
9V out to L293D
Voltage Reg
3 17
Line Follower
Jumper
Line Follower
Jumper
Sumo
Jumper
+
+
+
+
+ +
+
C1
1000F
Opt.
Diode
Dual IR
Detect
"Charge"
Sumo
Jumper
"Sumo Dance"
Inhibitor
"Sumo Dance"
Inhibitor
Replace R26 with Diode for
swift reset button action
Opt
TP4
r
m
n

a
u
F
o

5

s
e
c
o
d
s
t
r
t
p

SWT2
C6
0.1F
C7
0.1F
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
E|ectronic Lnyout Dingrnm
Mainboard FC
Discrete rainboard FC
Edge Sensor oard FC
2
9
3
L
D

74AC14
M M
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
9V
6V
9V
5V
2
9
3
7

IR
DET1
IR
DET2
LED3
IC1

I
C
2
5V
5V
R3
R4
C4
C5
C3 C2
5V
5V
5V
5V
5V
5V
Plug
2
25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 Plug
1
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
H3
H4
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
H1
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
H1
1M0
1M0
6.8F 6.8F
0.1F
0.1F
RED
LED1
R1
+
LED2
R2
+
1k

1k

1000F
Right Left
SWT2
C6
0.01F
C7
0.01F
+ 9V
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Renr Sensor Option
Sumovore kear Sensor Option: You may have noticed the spots at the rear center of the mainboard labled pt lk DLT3 and
pt C. These are the mountin points for another FNA+0Z lk sensor and 0.1F filter capacitor. The idea is to install a rear-
lookin sensor, so its less likely that you Will be approached from behind and "escorted out to the ede of the sumo rin.
lnstallation is straihtforWard, simply mount these parts in the locations mentioned, but youll most likely have to cut the lead
lenths doWn as there Will most likely be stuff in the Way beloW. Youre noW half-Way there!
So What do you have to do to finish ettin all the Way there? Well, its one thin to detect an opponent behind you, but What are
you oin to do about it? Were oin to use a positive detection trier the same behaviour as if the opponent Was detected by
the left or riht sensor. Well run the output sinal from the rear sensor to one of the front sensor outputs, so a rear-detection
triers the same response as a left or riht detection.
Solder a Wire from the pad just above the DLT3 sensor position, and thread it
throuh the one of the holes on the mainboard to up near Where you Wired up
the +AA battery holder. lf you look closely, youll see tWo pads labled kiht
and Left. Fick a direction you Want your Sumovore to turn When it detects a
rear opponent, and solder your Wire to that pad.
What youve finished noW is a passive sensor, Which is that it doesnt send out
a sinal to detect the opponent. lts dependin on the opponent to broadcast
a 3kHz lk sinal [very common] for you to detect. Like a submarine just
listenin for its adversary.
lf you Want to be proactive and send out active "pins to locate your
opponent, you can install an lk emitter in parallel With the red indicator LLD at
the back. lf you look at the bottom just beloW this LLD, youll see a second set
of solder points Where you can solder on an lk emitter. You can use another
focused emitter like the front of your Sumovore, or use a Wide-anle emitter
like the F1+0A shoWn in the picture - practically any lk emitter Will do the
job. Be aWare that installin the extra emitter Will most likely pull enouh
poWer aWay from the red LLD that it Wont liht up anymore. lf you Wish, you
can yank the red LLD riht out and install your lk emitter there instead - just
make sure it doesnt poke out far enouh to violate the 10 x 10cm maximum
size rule. e warned: - if your opponent is lookin for a 3kHz sinal,
youve just put a bi ol beacon for him to lock on to!
Step 3: Insta|| Senser, capaciter and ene end ef wire
Wire
connection
Sensor
Wire
kiht / Left
sensor connection
pads
Step S: Cennect ether end ef wire te
'Right' er 'Left'
Step 2: Thread wire threugh te frent right side
Step 4 (Dpt.): Insta|| IR Emitter
be|ew LEDS
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Add-ons nnd Upgrndes!
We've been saying aII aIong that the Sumovore is a IIexibIe minisumo
pIatIorm - here's our prooI!
The Brainboard add-ons for our Sumovore have been very popular. Fick your flavour, and convert your Sumovore into somethin
you are comfortable prorammin!
All microcontrollers [except StampStacks] come preloaded With default code desined to make your Sumovore a line-folloWer and
mini-sumo. DoWnload the source from our Website, and use it as a startin point for your oWn code!
The AtmeI rainboard uses the Atmel
leaL - a very popular, poWerful,
inexpensive microcontroller that
replaces our oWn discrete brain.
Some of our customers have used
this to convert their Sumovore into
aWard-Winnin line folloWers!
The llC rainboard
uses the 1F11a, Which
is another very popular
microcontoller that replaces our
oWn discrete brain. Bein a very Well
established lC, it has a lare number of very ood development
tools.
Kit 33b:
Atme| Nega8L Brainbeard
Kit 33c:
Nicrechip PIC 36F877a
Brainbeard
Kit 33a:
BS2 Brainbeard Adapter
HSS2:
Stamp Stack II Nicrecentre||er
The S2 rainboard adapter lets you interface practically any of the Farallax BSZ [and
compatible] series of microcontrollers to your Sumovore. The BSZ is reat for beinnin
prorammers, as the FBASlC prorammin environment is easy, very Well documented, and
reasonably poWerful. [Note: This is just the adapter - you must provide your oWn BSZ
compatible, like the HSSZ Stamp Stack]
The HSS2 HVWTech Stamp Stack ll is a 100%
compatible Basic Stamp Z microcontroller, With
added in features to make it beinner friendly. lts
Wired to protect from backWard battery-hookup,
and included an onboard reset sWitch, plus easily
replaceable core components.
Think youre ready for some more poWer, huh punk? Think you
can handle triple the speed and double the torque? k, here ya
o, the kM2 - dont foret to make the necessary adjustments
to your Sumovore!
r, if you happen to damae a motor, et the kM3 replacement!
RN2 Upgrade Neter /
RNS Rep|acement Neter
Traction is What its all about. Try the GMlW-GT Gummy Tires for a
competitive ede!
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Mini-Sumo Competition Ru|es
There are a ood many robot clubs and contests that run their oWn mini-sumo contests, and most adhere to the same rules.
Heres a short list of the rules you can expect to see at these competitions.
The kobot
lust not Weih more than S00 rams [1.1lb]
lust fit in a 10cm [3.31in] by 10cm square but can be any heiht
Sumo must not move for the first S seconds of match
Sumo is alloWed to expand after the S second startup
No Weapons! [i.e. FlamethroWers or Blades of Doom!]
No damain the rin! [i.e. SaW blade Wheels or drillin holes]
Tires must not be sticky
The Competition lIatIorm king
kin has a 11cm diameter
kin is a flat black surface With a Z.Scm [1in] Wide White rin around the perimeter
There are tWo parallel startin lines With a Width of 1cm a lenth of 10cm and are located 10cm apart from the center of
the rin. These lines are broWn so that they do not trier any lk ede sensors.
kin is usually constructed With black melamine but some events use steel platforms
kin heiht is usually Z inches for ede detectin robots, some competitions use a rin heiht of 1 inch
kunning oI the Competition
You have to Win tWo of three matches to Win your bout
latches are a maximum of 3 minutes in lenth
lf it is areed betWeen both competitors the match may end earlier [l.e.: if both sumo cease to function]
The hiher-ranked sumo [or Winner from previous match] is placed first on the rin and positioned. The lesser-ranked
robot is then alloWed to position.
Upon the sinal from the referee/jude, the robots are activated. No motion from the robot is alloWed for five seconds
upon activation. This alloWs competitors to et a safe distance aWay from the competition platform.
North American rules state that you may position your robot to start anyWhere behind in the zone extendin from the
startin line off to the left and riht edes of the sumo rin.
}apanese rules state that you may position your robot to start so that some portion of it is touchin the zone extendin
directly backWard from the ends of the startin line to the rear ede.
Want to discuss your Sumovore With other Sumovore oWners? Visit our Yahooroup at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sumovore/
lf you have any questions reardin this kit, please contact us!
SoIarbotics ltd.
Z01 - 3Sth Avenue N.L.
Calary, Alberta, Canada TZL ZKS
Toll Free: -Z1-Z1 / +03-Z3Z-Z Fax: [+03] ZZ-31+1
Website: http://WWW.solarbotics.com
Lmail: info@solarbotics.com
Copyriht Solarbotics Ltd., Z00S
The So|nrbotics Sumovore