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The Southern be||e (from be||e French for 'beaut|fu|`}
was the ep|tome of a young upper c|ass woman from the
Amer|can Deep south.

The Southern be||e rose to popu|ar|ty |n the |ate 1700s
when s|avery was r|fe on p|antat|ons. A Southern be||e
was c|ass|fed as be|ng a young unmarr|ed woman ||v|ng
|n the p|antat|on-own|ng area of the Southern upper c|ass
soc|ety. She fo||owed the antebe||um fash|on, |nc|ud|ng a
hoop sk|rt a corset, panta|ettes, a w|de-br|mmed straw
hat, and g|oves. She wou|d a|so frequent|y carry a paraso|
umbre||a (as wh|te sk|n was a s|gn of super|or|ty} as we||
as a hand fan due to the steamy c||mate |n the south. A
Southern be||e carr|ed herse|f w|th e|egance, she was
demure and ded|cated to her fam||y and commun|ty events.
Much wea|th was generated after the O|v|| War due to the
growth of |ndustry and ra||roads, and what better way to
show off ones wea|th than w|th |av|sh ba||s and extravagant
outfts. Th|s |s where debutante ba||s rose to popu|ar|ty |n
the n|ted States, from the term 'debut` - to enter soc|ety,
|t was a trad|t|on borrowed from Europe and the K |n
the same era when Oueen Ohar|otte began the custom of
present|ng young ar|stocrat|c women at court. lt was a|so
a way for a young woman to be presented to soc|ety, at
an age appropr|ate for marr|age |n wh|ch she cou|d fnd a
su|tab|e husband from the same soc|a| p|atform.
Eng||sh debutantes wore e|aborate headdresses and |ong
tra|ns, however the Amer|can debutantes appropr|ated the
fash|on to be more su|tab|e. Debutante ba||s, as w|th many
events d|ffer between soc|a| c|asses and cu|tura| groups but
|t |s s|gn|fcant to note the vast d|fference |n dress reg|ona||y.
The trad|t|ona| debutante dress was wh|te. ln New Or|eans
debs team the|r gowns w|th tra|ns, co||ars, jewe|s and
spark||ng crowns. Texan debs are the most un|que of a||,
often wear|ng co|oured gowns to m|rror antebe||um women
who came before them. Oommon|y |n Amer|can soc|ety
the a debutante ba|| |s now referred to as a cot||||on, where
young women of e||te soc|et|es are presented by the|r
fathers on stage. ln many |nstances there |s a cot||||on
comm|ttee, usua||y cons|st|ng of a|| fema|es of the upper
c|ass who are marr|ed. They must approve the debutantes
dress, some months before the ba|| to ensure |ts modesty
and pract|ca||ty for be|ng presented.
The n|ted States seem to have a fasc|nat|on w|th
roya|ty desp|te not hav|ng a monarchy, |n many soc|et|es
'k|ngs` and 'queens` are announced regu|ar|y. Whether
the qu|ntessent|a||y Amer|can Prom K|ng and Oueen
to the rodeo queens of the Western states |nc|ud|ng |n
M|ss|ss|pp|, F|or|da and Arkansas. Women compete |n
barre| rac|ng and are the w|nner |s crowned on the bas|s
of her |mpress|ve horsemansh|p, as we|| as |mpress|ve
Western wear. These queens must have crowns that ft
secure|y over the|r western hats to stay on dur|ng the barre|
race.
lt appears |n many of the Southern S states the cu|ture
of honor and a c|ass based soc|ety |s st||| we|| and tru|y
a||ve and thr|v|ng today. The fash|on of the Southern be||e
enab|es women to show the|r soc|a| stand|ng and cements
her |nto an `acceptab|e` soc|ety. There |s an o|d Goth|c-
sty|e mans|on |n Tennessee ca||ed the Athenaeum Rectory,
|n wh|ch young women can attend over the summer to
|earn how to be a beaut|fu| and respected Southern be||e.
She w||| have e|ocut|on |essons and go on out|ngs |n fu||
trad|t|ona| Southern be||e antebe||um dress.
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|as| /ccessed !0|e 2 2011.
/|de|so|, /d||e||e. (1999 /oo0| Co|||||o|s o/ Co|o|. Co|||||o|s o/
Co|o|. /.a||ao|e. |||o.//co|||||o|so/co|o|.wo|do|ess.com/aoo0|/. |as|
/ccessed !0|e 2 2011.
|a,|e, /. (199c. Deo0|a||e D|ess. Se| Fas||o| ||o|a|,. /.a||ao|e.
|||o.//www.oe|/as||o|||o|a|,.com.wwwo|ox,0.||o|a|,.0|sw.ed0.a0/
.|ew/oaz//oaz/00150.xm|?q=deo0|a||e8|s/0zz,=|o=|||||||/|c|o|.
|as| /ccessed !0|e 2 2011.
|a,|e, /. (2012. /me||ca| |o,a||,. 7exas 5|,|e. Se| Fas||o|
||o|a|,.3. /.a||ao|e. |||o.//www.oe|/as||o|||o|a|,.com.wwwo|ox,0.
||o|a|,.0|sw.ed0.a0/.|ew/oewd//SEHDF-.3/EDc|3513.xm|?q=deo0|a
||e8|s/0zz,=|o=|||||||/|c|o|. |as| /ccessed !0|e 2 2011.
Fa|||am, C|||s||e (1991. 7|e Ed0ca||o| o/ ||e 5o0||e|| Se||e. ^ew
Yo||. ^ew Yo|| U||.e|s||, ||ess.
|||o.//deeoso0||ma.com/2011/05/a|a|om,-o/-a-so0||e||-oe||e/
|||o.//www.so0||e||oe||es|mo|e.com/
For years the Southern Amer|can States was recogn|sed
as a rura| area, w|th |arge ranches and homesteads across
Amer|ca four|sh|ng |n the years pr|or to the O|v|| War, bu||t
on the foundat|ons of the Afr|can-Amer|can s|ave trade.
As a resu|t, a part|cu|ar sty|e emerged. Pert|nent to the hot
and harsh cond|t|ons of the area, broad-br|mmed hats and
boots were a necess|ty. Farmers cap|ta||sed on the hard-
wear|ng qua||ty of den|m, wear|ng jeans, wh|ch were often
torn or sta|ned from the|r work.
Horses and catt|e were a cruc|a| component of th|s ||fe-
sty|e, and thus mot|fs emerged centred on ||vestock. Th|s
|nc|udes steer horns, an|ma| h|de/fur and |eather, wh|ch
was used |n a var|ety of forms |nc|ud|ng c|othes, catt|e wear
such as br|d|es and sadd|ery and home |nter|ors.
Though st||| pro||fc |n the Southern states of Amer|ca, the
Western sty|e has been redes|gned and re|nv|gorated to
appea| to the wea|thy Amer|cans outs|de of the Southern
states through brands such as Ra|ph |auren. Ra|ph |auren
produces button down sh|rts, checked c|othes, |eather
boots and vests that are typ|ca| of the cowboy-Western
sty|e. Ra|ph |auren |s a g|oba||y recogn|sed brand, and has
m|xed the Po|o co||ect|on w|th couture p|eces.
A|so of s|gn|fcant |mportance, |s the |ntegrat|on of trad|t|on-
a| Western cu|ture |nto the fash|on of women. The gender
b|nary of the 1800s and ear|y 1900s d|ctated womzen
to wear|ng sk|rts, and text||es |nc|ud|ng |aces and s||ks.
However, as the gender b|nary softened, text||es |nc|ud|ng
den|m and |eather were made access|b|e to women. Th|s
|s part|cu|ar so w|th the rock and ro|| ama|gamat|on, as the
rock and ro|| scene was of a t|me of great soc|a| change.
Beg|nn|ng |n Amer|ca |n the 1940s and 1950s, rock and
ro|| was d|st|nct|y d|fferent from preced|ng mus|c genres
|nc|ud|ng c|ass|ca| and jazz. Rock and ro|| sp||t |nto d|ffer-
ent denom|nat|ons over decades |nc|ud|ng g|am rock of the
sevent|es, punk of the |ate sevent|es and grunge of the |ate
e|ght|es.
The sevent|es were a t|me of youth and fem|n|st ||berat|on,
w|th the gender b|nary further cha||enged by the sub-genre
of g|am rock. Mus|c|ans |nc|ud|ng Dav|d Bow|e, KlSS
and A||ce Oooper embraced androgyny as opposed to
str|ct gender ro|es that soc|ety advocated, that were now
brought up for quest|on|ng.
ln add|t|on to g|am rock was the evo|vement of punk rock,
defned by art|sts |nc|ud|ng the Sex P|sto|s and the Ram-
ones. Punk rock was an |ntersect|on between Br|t|sh rock
wh|ch entered the scene |n the m|dd|e of the s|xt|es, a
movement known as the Br|t|sh lnvas|on, and the or|g|na|
Amer|can rock sphere. Punk was marked by excess|ve
cosmet|c use, |nc|ud|ng heavy eyeshadow, eye||ner and
a|so for costume use, such as that ut|||sed by KlSS.
Deve|op|ng |ater than g|am rock and punk but of no |ess
soc|a| |nfuence |s grunge rock and ro||. Or|g|nat|ng |n Wash-
|ngton, |con|c mus|c|ans of the grunge movement |nc|ude
Oourtney |ove and N|rvana`s Kurt Ooba|n. W|nge encap-
su|ates th|s fash|on, assert|ng that 'Ooba|n estab||shed
the fash|on of thr|ft store cast-offs: worn jeans, d|stressed
p|a|d sh|rts, out-of-date card|gans, and uncombed ha|r.
|ove wore baby-do|| dresses, Mary Jane shoes, d|sheve|ed
makeup, and unkempt ha|rsty|es."
Though d|st|nct, these rock and ro|| sty|es ama|gamated to
create the rock and ro|| fash|on genre. Th|s |s recogn|sed by
the |ntertw|n|ng androgyny of g|am rock, exaggerated and
overstated makeup and att|re of punk rock and grunge`s
ant|-bourgeo|s|e and ant|-cap|ta||st d|sheve||ed fash|on. Th|s
sty|e has now been |ntersected w|th Western sty|e, add-
|ng to the rock and ro|| |ook w|th knee-h|gh boots, var|ous
man|pu|at|ons of |eather, embe|||shment |nc|ud|ng studs,
buck|es and eye|ets, fr|ng|ng and checked sh|rts.
Th|s sty|e has entered the rea|ms of popu|ar cu|ture beyond
the Southern States of Amer|ca. For examp|e, pop s|nger
M||ey Oyrus re|eased her s|ng|e 'Party |n the SA" |n 2010,
wear|ng a d|st|nct|y Western Rock n Ro|| sty|e outft. She
comb|ned the |eather vest, torn and sta|ned den|m shorts,
be|t and knee-h|gh brown |eather boots, wh|ch then was
pa|red w|th a sma|| b|ack ftted s|ng|et and th|ck, b|ack
eye||ner and eyeshadow. The add|t|on of embe|||shments
|nc|ud|ng meta| eye|ets and the studded be|t, and meta|||c
sta|ns on the shorts |s typ|ca| of th|s sty|e.
"7|e most |moo|tant |nh0ence on Weste|n sty|e, |oweve|, |s t|e cowooy." (W||sonI.
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KEEP
ASTlN
WElRD
The Antebe||um per|od |s genera||y known as any 'pre
war` per|od, however when used |n the Amer|can context
refers to an era dat|ng back from 1814 to 1860. End|ng the
Antebe||um era was the O|v|| war, wh|ch |t w||| forever be
||nked. Dur|ng the era many d|mens|ons of the econom|c,
techno|og|ca|, and soc|a| were chang|ng. These changes
man|fested |n the nat|ona| cu|ture |n aston|sh|ng ways.
The |nnovat|ons of the mass pr|nt|ng press made poss|b|e
the frst popu|ar newspapers and advert|sements (espec|a||y
|n the c|t|es}. The prompt commun|cat|on made poss|b|e
by the te|egraph enab|ed the |n|t|at|on of spectator sports
|n wh|ch men |n sa|oons hundreds of m||es from a horse
race or box|ng match cou|d rece|ve rap|d updates on
the progress and outcome. lt a|so a||owed 'A range of
antebe||um pr|nts-fash|on p|ates, advert|sements, street
v|ews, book |||ustrat|ons and |mages s|mp|y dep|ct|ng
dressed fgures-part|c|pated |n and he|ped to advance a
v|sua| cu|ture work|ng to reconc||e Amer|can amb|va|ence
over fash|on by |mbu|ng dress goods w|th sent|menta|,
gender, and rac|a| mean|ngs" (Brekke-A|o|se, 2010}
For men |ondon fash|on was cons|dered the ep|tome of
good taste. Dark co|oured coats were favoured, however
vests (known as wa|stcoats} were often br|ght or br|ght|y
decorated. Pants were e|ther b|ack or ||ght |n co|our and
were c|ose ftt|ng. Suspenders usua||y he|d up the pants.
'Mater|a|s for c|othes and undergarments var|ed accord|ng
to the c||mate and season. Mater|a|s ||ke woo| and
cashmere were worn |n co|d weather, wh||e warm weather
brought c|oth|ng made from mater|a|s ||ke cotton, ||nen and
s||k." (Schmoop, 2014}
Men genera||y wore shoes or boots, often brown or b|ack,
made of sturdy |eather, suede or k|d. Men a|so wore
beaver hats, however they eventua||y fe|| out of fash|on
and favoured cheaper hats made or straw or s||k became
popu|ar. nt|| the |ate 1830s, men were usua||y c|ean-
shaven. By the 1850s, however, few ma|es past puberty
cou|d be found w|thout fac|a| ha|r. Beards, moustaches,
and s|deburns of many var|et|es became accepted as
sty||sh s|gns of man||ness.
lt was c|ear that there was a d|st|nct fasc|nat|on w|th
'c|ass`, a not|on |nextr|cab|y ||nked w|th th|s era. Th|s
stemmed from the examp|e of the monarchy and was often
refected |n every day soc|ety through c|oth|ng. The qua||ty
of c|oth|ng d|m|n|shed depend|ng on c|ass. Wea|thy peop|e
wore s|mp||fed vers|ons of the|r even|ng c|othes; wh||st the
poor had to wear garments made of coarse, cheap mate-
r|a| and were des|gned for endurance rather than attract|ve-
ness or comfort.
Wh||st the antebe||um cu|ture |s a b|g part of Amer|can
H|story, |ts |dea|s are rare|y ex|stent today. The treatment
of s|aves and d|srespect toward Afr|can Amer|cans can
somet|mes st||| be fe|t |n the 'deep south` however such
att|tudes are frowned upon |n genera| Amer|ca. Fash|on
based on c|ass that favours the '|ondon` sty|e |s not rea||y
present today |n the Southern states of Amer|ca. lnstead,
|t focuses on the 'rock and ro||` sty|e out||ned e|sewhere |n
th|s pub||cat|on.
Se||e-/|o|se, | 2010, '/ .e|, o|e||, o0s||ess. Fas||o| a|d Co|s0me|
C0||0|e || /||eoe||0m /me||ca| |||||s', ||o|a|, comoa|, o/ ||||ade|o||a
5|mooo U||.e|s||,, 2011, accessed 5/5/11 <|||o.//www.s|mooo.com/
a||eoe||0m/>
/d.e|||seme|| o/ /as||o| /o| me| 1c19. Deo|c||| ||e '|o|do|' s|,|e as
desc||oed aoo.e.
/aaz||e ad.e|||s|| c|o|||| /o| oo|| me| a|d wome| c||ca 1c2c. 7|e s|aoe, co|o0| a|d s|ze o/ ||e c|o||es a|e we|| deo|c|ed w||||| ||e ad.e|||seme||
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