A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limitedpublicationfor theTextile, Leather, Paper & Alliedprocessingindustries
April 2007 th 28 year of Publication Contents Corporate Product Safety (CPS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Pantone and Clariant Partnership. . . . 4 Sense the difference with Clariant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 New Arrivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Colour Chronicle April 2007 Textile Leather Paper Clariant Consultancy Service Section New Arrivals Inside View Apparel & Fashion Corporate Product Safety (CPS) Gleanings fromPress PantoneandClariant Partnership. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Lyocell Fiber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 SensethedifferencewithClariant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Leather SpringSummer 2008 Trends. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Emulsions for Paper application. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Eganal PS Liquid. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Bactosol COipLiquid. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 CerapermMDPlus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Colour Chronicle April 2007 Pantone and Clariant Partner New Tools, Technology andServices will IncreaseSpeed-to-Market andReduce Costs for Designers, Manufacturers and Retailers CARLSTADT, N.J. andMUTTENZ, Switzerland March8, 2007 Pantone, Inc., theglobal authority oncolor andprovider of professional color standards for thedesign industries, andtheTextileBusiness of Clariant International Ltd., oneof theworld's largest textilecolorant andchemical producers, today announceda strategic partnershipthat will turntextilecolor development into a vehiclefor increasedproductivity andrevenuefor the fashionandhomefurnishings industries worldwide. This partnershippairs thetrustedcolor and trendexpertisesynonymous withthe PANTONEBrandandClariant's global network of colorant andapplicationtechnology specialists. For businesses whosesuccess hinges onanefficient andaccuratecolor development workflow, thePantoneand Clariant partnershipwill offer a SMART solutionthat delivers a faster, morepreciseand technically-soundendproduct anywhereinthe world. Thereis a great deal of synergy between PantoneandClariant that enables us to dramatically improvethecolor development process witha variety of new tools, technologies andsupport services, saidLisa Herbert, executivevicepresident, Pantone, Inc. PantoneandClariant sharethesamevision for streamliningthecolor development workflow so designers andretailers canexpect andachieveaccuratecolor reproductionevery time. Throughthis partnership, wearenow ableto providetools andservices for every aspect of thedesignprocess frominspiration throughproduction, empoweringour customers to maintaintheintegrity of their creative vision. Clariant's technical expertisemakes us the best company intheindustry to providetrue, accuratematches to PANTONE Colors, said Peter Piringer, Headof Clariant's Textile, Leather & Paper Division. This means that today's topnamebrands andretailers save money andcritical timeinthecolor. development cycle. Our partnershipwith Pantoneoffers designers, manufacturers and retailers a network withunparalleledskill in color development, communicationand technology to expediteperfect color coordinationfor new product lines ona global basis. This new partnershipwill connect thevast number of users of thePANTONE FASHION + HOME Color Systemaroundtheworldwith Clariant's global network of technical specialists andstate-of-the-art colorants technology. Together, thetwo companies will better servicetheworld's textileindustry, whichis increasingly challengedwith specifyingandexecutingcolor ona global scale. Thepartners' combinedcapabilities will improvethecolor matchingandapproval cycle, potentially reducingcolor development times andtheassociatedmanagement costs by 50% or more. As a result of this partnership, designers, retailers andtheir vendors will haveaccess to thetechnical expertise, specifications andtools that will enablethemto accurately and efficiently matchany of the1,925 colors inthe PANTONE FASHION + HOME Color System anywhereintheworld. BeginninginMarch 4 TEXTILE to Advance Color Development for Textile Industry 2007, PantoneandClariant will introducenew products andservices that will enableusers to takeadvantageof technology andworkflow advancements ona global basis. Pantone, Inc. has beentheworlds color authority for morethan40 years, providing designprofessionals withproducts and services for thecolorful explorationand expressionof creativity. Always a sourcefor color inspiration, Pantonenow offers paint and designer-inspiredproducts andservices for consumers. Moreinformationis availableat www.pantone.com About Pantone, Inc. Lyocell Fiber Lyocell is a natural, man-madefiber producedin anenvironment-friendly process fromwood pulpandhas becomepopular inclothing becauseit is absorbent andcomfortablefor wear, especially inconditions of highhumidity. Lyocell was developedby Courtaulds Fibers (now Acordis Cellulosic Fibers), aninternational supplier of rayon. It enteredtheconsumer market in1991. Theproperties andproduction processes wereuniqueenoughfor theFederal TradeCommissionto designateit as a separate fiber group. Thetradenamefor lyocell producedby Acordis is Tencel. LenzingFibers, another major manufacturer of rayon, has also enteredthelyocell market. This product is marketedas Lenzinglyocell. Animprovedfiber, interms of performanceandproperties, lyocell is also friendly to theenvironment. Virtually all of thechemicals usedintheproductionprocess arereclaimed. Theresultingfiber, lyocell, is bothbiodegradableandrecyclable. Lyocell is a manufacturedfiber, but it is not synthetic. It is madefromwoodpulpharvested fromtreefarms for this purpose. Becauseit is madefroma plant material, it is cellulosic and possesses many properties of other cellulose fibers, suchas cotton, linen, ramie, andrayon- another manufacturedbut non-synthetic fiber. Inmany ways, lyocell is moresimilar to cotton thanit is to rayon. Likeother cellulosic fibers, it is breathable, absorbent, andgenerally Properties andCharacteristics Details Tencel Viscose Cotton Polynosics Count (dtex) 1.4-1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 Dry Tenacity (CN/tex) 41 25 28 38 Dry Extension(%) 13 17 10 11 Wet Tenacity (CN/tex) 34 14 32 26 Wet Extension(%) 16 21 11 12 comfortableto wear. Infact, lyocell is more absorbent thancottonandsilk, but less so thanwool, linen, andrayon. It cantakehigh ironingtemperatures, but likeother cellulosics will scorch, not melt, if burned, andis susceptibleto mildew anddamageby silverfish. Cellulosic fibers arenot resilient, whichmeans they wrinkle. Lyocell has moderateresiliency. It does not wrinkleas badly as rayon, cotton, or linen.Also, slight shrinkageis typical inlyocell garments. Stability, overall, is similar to that of silk and better thancottonor linen. Lyocell has strengthanddurability. It is the strongest cellulosic fiber whendry, even stronger thancottonor linenandis stronger thancottonwhenwet. Lyocell is muchstronger thanrayonwhenwet. This property of high wet strengthusually determines theextent to whichfabrics canbemachinewashed successfully. Physical Characteristics 5 TEXTILE Other desirableproperties of lyocell areits luster andsoft drapewhichmakes it an aesthetically pleasingfiber. Sinceit is a manufacturedfiber, thediameter andlengthof fibers canbevaried. Lyocell canbemadeinto microfibers (very finefibers), offeringdepth andbody to fabrics combinedwithluxurious drape. Short staplelengthfibers givea cotton- likelook to fabrics. Longfilament fibers are successful insilk-likeenduses. Lyocell blends well withother fibers includingwool, silk, rayon, cotton, linen, nylon, andpolyester. It successfully takes many finishes, both functional andthosedesignedto achieve different surfaceeffects, anddyes easily. Overall, lyocell is a versatilefiber withmany desirableproperties. 6 TEXTILE +Every kindof regeneratedcellulosic fibre shows a skin-corestructure. Theskinpart has anamorphous structurewhilethecore part shows a highly crystallineoriented one. Their specific repartitioninsidethe Lyocell fibreleads to uniqueremarkable properties calledfibrillation. +All regeneratedcellulosic fibers (not cotton) losea part of their tensilestrengthin water; this loss is significantly less for Lyocell fibers. As withconventionally manufacturedcotton fabric, therearemany steps andprocesses involvedinproductionof Lyocell. Themajor steps are: 1. creatinga solvent solutionfromwood pulp 2. spinningLyocell fiber fromthesolvent solution 3. washingLyocell fiber to remove solvents dryingfiber andproducing yarns 4. dryingfiber andproducingyarns Lyocell Fibers ProductionProcess Lyocell fibers production process AmineOxide Mix Dissolve Filter Spin Wash Finish Dry Crimp TENCEL FIBRE Purify Evaporate Woodpulp +Step1 Creatinga solvent solution fromwoodpulp Themanufacturingprocess for Lyocell is basedontheprincipleof direct solvent spinning. Thewoodpulpsolutionis producedina straight salvationprocess by dissolvingwoodpulpat hightemperatures andpressures ina non-toxic organic solvent solutionof amineoxide, particularly N- methylmorpholineN-oxide, whichis reclaimedandrecycledina closedloop spinningprocess conservingenergy and water. Upto 99%of thesolvent is recoveredandreused. Thewoodpulpcan comefroma variety of sources, suchas woodchips or evenlargerolls of paper that havebeenfinely shredded, dependingupon themanufacture's technologies. +Step2 SpinningLyocell fiber fromthe solvent solution Beforebeingformedinto fibers, thefiber- producingsubstances for all manufactured fibers is ina thick liquidstate. Inthe spinningprocess this liquidis forced througha spinneret. Theclear viscous resultant solutionis filteredandextruded into anaqueous bathof diluteamineoxide, andcoagulatedinto fiber form. This process does not involveany direct chemical reactionandthedilutedamine oxideis purifiedandreused. +Step3 WashingLyocell fiber to removesolvents Thefiber is thenwashedbeforeit is dried andtwistedor spuninto yarns, whichare wovenor knittedinto fabrics or garments. +Step4 Dryingfiber andproducing yarns Whenthefilament dries or solidifies, it forms what is calleda continuous filament fiber. Many continuous filaments of specific thicknesses collectedina largebundle calleda tow. Strands of continuous filament fibers arethentwistedtogether to forma continuous filament yarn, whichis thenwovenor knit. A uniqueproperty of Lyocell is that thefibers fibrillate whenwet andaremechanically agitated. Thefibrils peel off alongthesurface of individual fibres whenthey are: +Swolleninwater +Undergoinga mechanical stress inwet state. +Thefibres split into many small fibrils attachedto thebasefibres. +Abrasioncauses fibrils to break, one break givingtwo fibrils. New fashionlooks Thehighdegreeof fibrillationof Lyocell fibre provides thebasis for new fabrics exhibiting +different soft handle +thepeach-skineffect Fibrillation +neppy appearance +Distressed"frosty" look .... Constraints Onanother handif thefibrillationis not properly controlled: +creasemarks, greyingmay appear +recurrent fibrillationcouldspoil the goods duringconsumer's washing +Pills wouldbeentangledfrombadly fibrillatedfibres. Effect of temperature andpHon Fibrillation (Courtaulds Fibres Chart) Additionof a lubricant is essential: +to overcomewet rigidity of Lyocell fibres +to eventheprefibrillation +to makethesubsequent enzyme treatment moreeffective A full primary fibrillationis necessary to prevent anexcessivepost fibrillationduring subsequent wet processsteps likedyeingso thechoiceof theright lubricant employedat theright dosageis important. I. PEACHSKIN EFFECT stableto washing +OpenWidthPreparation: including desizingsingeing*, scouringbleaching (continuous machines) +Fibrillationonjet ( Air-jet-machine): Primary fibrillationof Fibres ends at surfaceof thefabric +Enzymatic defibrillation( Air-jet- machine): Removal of fibrillated surfacefibers +Dyeing, PadBatchor Exhaust onjet: Additionnal removal of fibrillated surfacefibres. Generationof secondary fibrillationat fabric surface. +Treatment ontumblingmachinewith softener: A Finesecondary fibrillation formedby fibresplittinginexposed areas takes place. +FinishingonStenter. * singeingmay reducetheintensity of primary fibrillation. LYOCELL - POSSIBLE PROCESSING ROUTES Colour Chronicle April 2007 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 FI 4 pH 13 20 0 Temp(C) 135 0 95C, pH9.5 II. CLEAN SURFACE stableto washing +OpenWidthPreparation: includingdesizingsingeing*, scouring bleaching(continuous machines) +Fibrillationonjet (Air-jet-machine): Primary fibrillationof Fibres ends at surfaceof thefabric +Enzymatic defibrillation(Air-jet-machine): Removal of fibrillated surfacefibers +Dyeing, PadBatchor Exhaust onjet: Additionnal removal of fibrillatedsurfacefibres. Generationof secondary fibrillation* at fabric surface. +Check if: A secondenzymatic defibrillationis necessary (selection of reactivedyes, openfabric structure) +FinishingonStenter. LYOCELL FIBRES PROCESS FIBRILLATION LR5:1 to10:1 95C 2C/min 1-2 g/l Imacol C2G.INliq - rinsing - neutralisation - cleanfilter loadthegoods 0.5-1 g/l Humectol C Check fibrillationeffect 3 g/l Sodaash or 2 ml/l NaOH(36B) 60C 60 min 5 min 60C 2C/min LYOCELL FIBRES ENZYMATIC DEFIBRILLATION Process It is important to control thetemperatureandpHto obtainoptimum effects. A bufferedsystemis advisable. After checkingdegreeof defibrillationtheenzymeis disactivatedunder alkalineconditions. - Rinsingat 40Ctwice - Cleanthefilter 0.5-1 g/l Humectol Ch.c. pH5/6.5* Sirrix2UD.INliq 60C 1-2 g/l Imacol C2G.INliq 45 min 10 min 1 g/l SodaAsh Bactosol CA liqconc 0.8%to1% DYEINGOF LYOCELL FIBRES DRIMAREN/ SANDOSPACE R Paste +As describedintheprocessingroutes theprimary fibrillation couldfollow its courseduringthedyeingof goods inrope of garment form +Dueto crosslinkingbehaviour certaintypeof bireactivedyes reducethefibrillationtendancy duringdyeing. Theworking conditions arealso very important like, for exampledyeing temperature. DrimarenK / DrimarenCL Dueto thelower dyeingtemperature, to theexcellent washingoff properties of thesetwo families of dyes, thedyeingconditions aremild andleadto reproducibledesiredeffects. +Primary trials arerecommandedto check theinfluenceof thetypeof Drimarendyes, theconcentrationof SandospaceR Pasteonto the desiredeffect. +DrimagenE2R Liquidis necessary to level thedistributionof thedyes duringthefirst stepof thedyeing(salt phasis), to control thefixation of thedyes (alkali addition). 7 TEXTILE Colour Chronicle April 2007 LR: 6:1 to10:1 Imacol C2G.INliq Salt Sodaash 60C 20/30 20/30 20to30 DrimagenE2R(1-2%) DrimarenKor CL combined with2%to4%SandospaceRPasteif necessary *pH5/6.5 to ensurebalancebetweenfibredamage& desireeffect. +2-3 rinsings at 50C accordingto depth +Soapingbetween80/95C with +Ladipur RSK or Ladiquest 1097.INliq +pH9 +Imacol C2G.INliq. LYOCELL FIBRES FINISHINGROUTES Therecommendations givenherefor LYOCELL andTENCEL fibers areguidelines. Specific recipes must beformulatedtogether withthecustomer on thebasis of thequality of his substrateandavailablemachines. Telluric treatment to producefibrillatedsurfaces Scouring/Desizing 1g/l Imerol PCJ liquid Desizing 2ml/l Bactosol PHC LiquidHC 0 Sirrix 2UD.IN Liq pH6, 20mins at 60 C 0 Causticizing 6 Be NaOH 0 1ml/l Imerol PCJ Liquid 60mins at 70 C 1ml/l Imacol C Liquidconc EnzymeTreatment ca.1% Bactosol CA Liqconc 0 (beforeor after dyeing) Sirrix 2UD.INLiq pH5.5, 40 minat 60 C Telluric Treatment 3-5% PumiceStones (after dyeing) 0.5-1% Bactosol CA Liqconc 1ml/l Imacol C Liquidconc 0 Sirrix 2UD.IN Liq pH5.5, 40 minat 60 C Finishing: 1-3% Solusoft MWLiq 0 Exhaust Process 1-3% Sandosoft PNLI pH5, 20 mins at 40 C Finishing: 10-30g/l Solusoft MWLiq pick-up70-80% 0 PadProcess 10-30g/l CerapermMN Liq dry at 130 C Dryingandtumbler Treatment Highspeedtumblingmachines arerecommendedso as to ensureaneffectiveenzyme wash. TEXTILE Colour Chronicle April 2007 Preventionof fibrillationduring dyeing(jet) Wet cross linking Upto now very littleother than"peachskin" effects wererequiredonfabrics of 100% Tencel or Lyocell andtheir blends. Thesewere achievedthroughfibrillationprocesses on special machines withBactosol CA Liqconc treatment followedby "telluric" treatment. Smoothfinishes areincreasingly indemand. Fibrillationis not desired, particularly onknit goods. Sincethis undesiredfibrillationis producedby minimal mechanical stress during wet processes, wehavedevelopedprocesses whichprevent fibrillation, e.g. duringdyeingon thejet. After desizing(e.g. padroll desizing) and scouring, thegoods aredriedinopenwidth. Thecross linkingagent solutionis thenpadded (pickupca. 80%) andthegoods rolledupand batchedwithrotationfor 22-24 h. Re-rolling after 1 - 2 his recommendedto equalizeany swellingtension. After washingoff and neutralizing, thegoods canbedyedwithout any disturbingfibrillation. 8 Recipe: 50 - 150 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN LiqConc 80 - 100 g/l Hydrochloric acid80% 2 g/l SandozinNIN Liquid +padcold, pickupca 80 % +roll +after ca. 1 hre-roll andwrapinplastic film +batchwithrotationfor 22-24 h +rinsethoroughly coldandat 60C +neutralizewith1.5 - 2 g/l soda ashat 50C +rinsehot andcold +if necessary neutralizewithacetic acid +Rinsecold. Theamount of cross linkingagent depends on thematerial andwhether this wet cross linking is intendedto stabilizefibrillationas well as prevent greyingduringsubsequent domestic laundering. Thedepthof thedyeingmay be affectedso it is advisableto determinethe optimumrecipeinpretrials. Withwet-cross linkedgoods it is virtually impossibleto producea peachskineffect by an enzymatic/telluric treatment. Macro- andmicro- fibrillationareblockedandthesurfaceremains smooth. A mercerizationprocess at 22-27Balso achieves blockingof undesiredfibrillation. The goods canbedyedonthejet but contrast to wet cross linking, micro fibrillationis still possibleby applyinganenzymatic treatment. Theeffects show relatively goodwash fastness so that finishingwithArkofix NDF.INLiqconc canbeomittedinsome cases. Inany casetheamount of Arkofix NDF.INLiqconc canbereduced. Anyway, it is important that permanent softeners areapplied infinishing(exhaust or pad). Whether wet cross linkingor mercerizationis carriedout also depends onthefollowing factors: +availablemachines (mercerizing machine, padder for CPB process) +whether total blockingor micro fibrillationis required +quality of goods +constructionof thegoods +Dyeingprocess, etc. Bothmethods haveadvantages and disadvantages. Themost suitableprocess must beselectedineachcasetogether withthe customer. Complaints about unsightly garments after only Mercerization
Greyingandfibrillationindomestic laundering oneor two washes aresteadily increasing. Thegarment containingLyocell/Tencel which was prepared, finishedandmadeupwithso muchcarewas washedby thehousewife accordingto therecommendationina gentle programmeat 40C. Inspiteof this the mechanical stress inthewashingmachinewas sufficient to causeseverefibrillationof the surfaceanda grey appearanceof thegoods. Oftenafter thefirst washthespecial soft flowinghandleof this fibrehas disappeared andleft a hard, boardlikefabric. This is the result of usingthewrong, non-permanent softener duringfinishing. Werecommendour permanent softeners from the SandopermandCerapermranges for this special, eco-friendly hi-techfibreof the superior class. Garments finishedwiththese softeners arestill soft andcomfortableto wear after several washes. Thesepermanent softeners also contributeto protectionof the environment becausethey remainonthefibre andarenot washedinto theeffluent. But! Eventhey cannot prevent fibrillationduring domestic washing. Therearevarious possiblemethods of achievingwashingmachine-resistant goods: +Resinfinishingwith Arkofix NDF.IN Liqconc by thedry curingmethod together withpermanent softeners (see recipes) +As mentionedabove, a higher amount of Arkofix NDF.INLiqconc canbe addedinwet cross linkingbefore dyeingto achievefibrillation stabilizationfor domestic laundering. However, if it is desiredto keepthe Arkofix NDF.INLiqconc concentrationas low as possiblebefore dyeing, it is possibleto adda reduced amount of Arkofix NDF.INLiqconc duringfinishing. +Inmany cases mercerizationproduces adequatestabilizationbut thereis also thepossibility of applying Arkofix NDF.INLiqconcinfinishing. If no cross linkingagent has beenapplied beforefinishing, higher amounts of Arkofix NDF.INLiqconcmust beappliedinfinal finishing. Werecommendthefollowingrecipes for resin finishingof knit andwovengoods. Finishingrecommendations for padapplication: Knits: 0.5 g/l SandozinNRWLiquid 9 TEXTILE Colour Chronicle April 2007 40-60 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN LiqConc 12-18 g/l MagnesiumChloride 0.3-0.4 g/l Citric Acid 15-20 g/l CerapermMN Liquid 20-30 g/l Solusoft ACN Liquid 0 170-175 C, 30-25secs curingtime(without dryingtime) Very goodsewability, soft, slightly full, flowing handle, semi-permanent, no fibrillation, no greyingevenafter several domestic washes. 0.5 g/l SandozinNRWLiquid 40-60 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN LiqConc 12-18 g/l MagnesiumChloride 0.3-0.4 g/l Citric Acid 15-25 g/l CerapermMN Liq 10-20 g/l Solusoft ACN Liquid 20-30 g/l HydropermRPU Liq 0 170-175 C, 30-25secs curingtime(without dryingtime) Very soft & highly voluminous handlewith excellent elasticity andelegant drapeof the knit goods. Theeffects arewashresistant. Very goodsewability, no fibrillation, no greying evenafter several domestic washes. WovenGoods: 0.5 g/l SandozinNRWLiquid 50-80 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN LiqConc 15-24 g/l MagnesiumChloride 0.3-0.4 g/l Citric Acid(only for shock curing) 20 g/l Solusoft ACN Liquid 25-30 g/l Solusoft MWLiqconc 10 g/l CerapermMN Liq o o 170-175 C, 30-25secs or 150 C, 4mins, followedby tumbler or sanfor treatment Soft, smooth, slightly voluminous handle. Cool silk touch. Permanent protectionagainst greyingindomestic washing. Soft handleeven after several washes. 0.5 g/l SandozinNRWLiquid 50-80 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN LiqConc 15-24 g/l MagnesiumChloride 0.3-0.4 g/l Citric Acid(only for shock curing) 20 g/l Solusoft ACN Liquid 30-40 g/l HydropermRPU Liquid o o 170-175 C, 30-25secs or 150 C, 4mins, followedby tumbler or sanfor treatment Exceptionally soft, voluminous handlewithvery elegant drapeandnatural fullness (Body). The volumeandsoft handlearehighly wash resistant. No greyingevenafter several domestic washes throughthepermanent preventionof fibrillation. Especially onpre- emerizedgoods, a washresistant peachskinor velvet effect is achievedwiththis topfinish. 10 TEXTILE Colour Chronicle April 2007 TheSociety of Dyers andColourists (U K) has conferred, Dr N. N. Mahapatra, as Fellow of theSociety of Dyers andColourists. Ina th communicationsent on16 J anuary 2007, Mr KennethMcGhee, Chief Executive& Secratory SDC intornedDr. Mahapatra of this decisionof council of thesociety Dr Mahapatra holds B.Sc TechinTextile Chemistry fromUICT, Mumbai University; M.Sc andPh.DinChemistry fromUtkal University, Orissa; M.B.A fromI.M.M. Kolkatta. At present Dr N. N. Mahapatra, Dy. General Manager (Processing), Sutlej Textiles AndIndustries Limited, K. K. Birla group, Unit; ChenabTextile Mills, Kathua (J & K) is headingthebiggest fibredyeingunit inIndia. Dr Mahapatra is having23 years of experience inTextileIndustry. Hehas workedinunits like J ayashreeTextile(a unit of Aditya Birla group), Rishra, Hooghly (W. B); Gujarat Spinners Ltd, Bharuch, Gujarat; RaymondKenya; RSWM Ltd (Banswara andGulabpura units); Churchgate groupNigeria; RelianceIndustries; Naroda; Ahmedabad. Dr Mahapatra's expertiseis invarious typeof fibredyeing, yarndyeing, hank dyeing. Heis involvedincost reduction, process optimization, erectionandcommissioning, effluent treatment andnew fibreprocessingin Textileindustries. Dr. N. N. Mahapatra conferred as Fellow of the Society of Dyers and Colourists Heis a Senior Member of American Associationof TextileChemists andColorists andTextileInstitute,Manchester. Heis a life member of TextileAssociationof India, Indian Instituteof Chemical Engineers andAll India Management Association. Theformal presentationof thediploma of fellowshipto Dr Mahapatra will takeplaceat a ceremony to beheldinBradford(U K) onApril 27, 2007. References:- +Thesis of Mrs. Nicolai - TITK - D07407 Rudolstadt +www.fibersource.com +Lyocell - onefiber, many faces ( www.ohioline.osu.edu) Colour Chronicle April 2007 New CartafenZFX liqfrom Clariant has already achieved soaringpaper productionand significant cost savings inpaper mills makingbrownpackaging grades. CartafenZFX liqdelivers: +Increasedpaper machine dewatering +Increasedproductionspeed +Increasedproductionoutput per day +Significant savings inenergy andtotal cost of operation BecauseCartafenZFX liqis unaffectedby thedissolvedand colloidal anionic materials inthe papermakingfurnish, it makes a measurabledifferenceto productivity and cost-effectiveness wherever there is low freshwater usage(<5 m3/tonne), highconductivity (>2,500 S/cm), or whenusing lignin-containingpulpfibres. Paper Business Exactly your chemistry. Take productivity to new heights with Cartafen ZFX liq Sense the difference with Clariant CLARIANT TAKE FASHION seriously. The company undertakeextensivefashionresearch whichis thenappliedinthecreationof finished articles. Theseuniqueprototypes demonstrate thepotential of thelatest leather trends and areshownto tanners at thecompany's roadshows andcustomer events across the globe. Inadditionto theroadshows, Clariant canstagespecial customer events longbefore theseasonbegins. They havefounda big demandfor this inAsia andLatinAmerica becauseClariant's fashionexperts arecloser to thecentreof global fashioninEurope. Clariant havea longhistory of involvement withgarments, leathergoods andfootwear. The programmewas createdto assist tanners with their marketingandtheinitiativebeganinItaly withdesigner, technicianandmarketingteams workingtogether. Clariant presentedtheir ownfashionarticles as longago as theSemaineduCuir inParis twenty years ago. Unlikeareas suchas automotiveandtechnical leathers, imagination is thekey whencreatingfashionleathers. The fashiongroupwas createdas a serviceled project, takinga strategic approach. Gian Pietro Papa is thedesigner who has been involvedsincethebeginning. Hetravels widely andhas anoverview of what is goingon. Clariant also work withLondonbasedfashion institutes. Inspirationis takenfroma rangeof sources includingarchitecture, arts, interiors andtextures. Four to fivetrends areproducedeachseason. Trendforecasts appear twicea year andare publishedwell inadvanceof theseason. From Right (fromtop): Driftwood, Sandy Bay, Brine, Salt Wash, Pebble, CapePoint andFroth. Colour Chronicle April 2007 conceptionto thefinal articletakes 3-4 months thentwo moremonths to bringto the marketplace. Clariant's Global Colour forecast withreal leather samples comes inadvanceof thetrend packageto beas timely as possible. These colour moods arenow integratedas part of the packageandtherearethreeleather collections worldwide. A key point is that theleathers arereproducible internationally; thesearenot one-off designs madeby hand. All inall, everyonecanbenefit fromplanning well inadvance. THE LATEST FASHION UP! comes withfour freshseasonal statements fromClariants Leather Business. Thelatest forecast for spring-summer 2008 allows tanners to beone stepaheadwhenit comes to leather fashion. TheGroups innovativefashionpackage includes four trendsettingroutes to follow: PureandSimple, Fashion Rebellion, CleanLines and Cool Luxe. Developedby Clariants International Fashion Group, this stylish promotional kit is Clariant forecast thelatest leather trends for spring-summer 2008 equippedwithaneye-catchingfashionposter swatchedwithreal leather samples and comprehensiveinformationabout trends andcorrespondinginterpretations onleather. All prototypearticles areexclusively madeby Italianstylists andwill bedisplayedduring Clariants fashionshows andfairs aroundthe world. Minimalism, luxury, natureandtoughlooks are thefour key directions to pursue. Pureand Simplereflects precious nature, realisedwith exclusivecolour mixes andfinishingeffects. Greenfashionandproducts that conjureupa feelingof natural goodness arehighprofile. The colour paletteranges frompaleto earthy shades for a highly sophisticatedchic combinedwitha feelingof natural goodness. FashionRebellionis a reactionto recent girly frills andhourglass silhouettes. Now it is time to toughenup! Thecurrent punk, grungeand gothrevivals havesparkedoff a new feelingfor toughaggressivelooks. Barrenconcrete interiors, surreal natureandrebellious heavy bootedfashionmodels set thescene. Fashion Rebellionworks onopposites usingdark summer shades. LEATHER Clariant forecast the latest leather trends for Spring Summer 2008 12 13 LEATHER Purelines of modernarchitecture, chic poolside spas andminimalist summer cabins inspire Clariants thirdfashiontrend, namedClean Lines. Cleanshapes instrongboldcolours are usedfor minimalist summer dresses. Innovative laser-technology or water-basedbrush-offs outstandingfinishingtechnologies from Clariant catchtheeyeof this superbstyle. Cool Luxeis representedby a brilliant look. It is inspiredby bronzesculptures inwarmand cool tones. Highgloss leathers, shineanddull effects combinewithbrilliant colours for a splendidsuper chic. Recognizingthat all aspects of lifestyleare influencedby fashionmoods, Clariant are constantly expandingtheir fashionactivities at a global level to beas closeas they canto the looks of tomorrow. A strongfocus onquality, worldwidestandards, innovationandecology will always bekey for Clariants committed fashionteam. Under themotto Fashionup! thebrandnew fashionpackagewill bediscussedinfurther detail withcustomers. Fashionup! is not only a forward- lookingtrendadventure every issue shouldbea useful tool to integrateart into fashionandopennew ways for thefuture. For moreinformationpleaseget intouchwith Clariant direct or withtheir local representatives. Aboveright fromtopto bottom: Groen, Bakkie, Skollie, Bitumen, Shanty, Rusty Nail, Rooikop, Chteau, French Lavender, Hameau, Trianon, GildedCherub, SunKingandFtes denuit. Below fromleft to right: Jet Black, Crisp White, Ink Spot, Battleship, RedFlag, BuntingandScanda Blue. Colour Chronicle April 2007 Feel the fashion with Clariant's fascinating new trends in leather. Spring/Summer 2008 PureandSimple/ Sevillane TheAndalusiangirl fromSevilleperforms theFlamenco ina colourful dress for whichthecombinationof Neosan2000 Pigments and SupronilHK dyes froma perfect match. This colour interplay is achievedusinga special screen-printingeffect. Thanks to anunique odourless topcoat system, consistingof MelioEW-346 and Melio04-G-129, her elegant perfumecanstill exciteher male audience. FashionRebellion/ Eruption Theeruptionof anaquatic volcano withMelio09-L-34leads to hot magma flowinginthewaves of theturbulent ocean expressedby Neosan2000 Pigments. This toughlookingmilitary boot shines day andnight ina patent styleonanaqueous base. Feel the fashion with Clariant's fascinating new trends in leather. Spring/Summer 2008 Exactly your chemistry. Cool Luxe/ Crystal Pearl Crystal Pearl represent a splendidoutfit combiningluxury witha required coolness. Theclassical styleof high gloss is achievedusing Melio09-L-34incombinationwith MelioTop297. OpcalinPearl Pigments reflect thebrilliant luxe. CleanLines / Lino Whereinnovationhits basic colours Lino is thecatchof theday. A special pregroundwithMelioGroundCL provides anuniformsurface onthis yellow-dyedsplit leather handbag. Theclear Lino-effect ina reddishshadeis appliedusinga special rollercoatingMelioAquabase techniquewithMelio06-U-55. Cartacoat B 640 andCartacoat B 641 are thebuildingblocks Cartacoat B 640: self-crosslinkedStyreneAcrylate emulsioncopolymer Cartacoat B 641: formaldehyde-freeStyreneAcrylate emulsioncopolymer Colour Chronicle April 2007 Emulsions for Paper application ImpregnatedDecorationPaper +Typical properties wecantailor: +Flexibility +Strength +Varnishabsorption +Synthetic resinabsorptionand compatibility +Optimal Printability 16 PAPER Wallpaper andCoatedwallpaper +Typical properties wecantailor : +Water resistance +Light fastness +Wet anddry tensileStrength +Tear strength +Printability Cartacoat B 432 andCartacoat B 433 are thebuildingblocks Cartacoat B 432 : self-crosslinkedVinyl Acrylateemulsion copolymer for uncoatedwallpaper Cartacoat B 433 : self-crosslinkedVinyl Acrylateemulsion copolymer for coatedwallpaper Cartacoat B 634 is thebuildingblock Cartacoat B 634: StyreneAcrylatecopolymer dispersion for coatedpaper andboard CoatedBottleLabel +Typical properties wecantailor: +Resistanceto caustic +Wet-strength +Mechanical resistance(impact) +Gloss +Printability Ink jet papers +Typical properties wecantailor : +Printingquality +Optical density +Color to color bleeding +Feathering +Bindingpower +Coatingandprint water resistance Cartacoat B 930 andCartacoat B 750 are thestartingblocks Cartacoat B 930 : neutral Acrylatecopolymer dispersion, binder for inkjet papers Cartacoat B 750 : cationic StyreneAcrylatecopolymer dispersion, binder for inkjet paper Technical papers Automotivefilters +Typical properties wecantailor : +Wet anddry tensilestrength +Burst +Compatibility withprominent crosslinkers +Solvent resistance +Hightemperatureresistance Cartacoat B 650 andCartacoat B 642 are theBuildingblocks Cartacoat B 650 : self-crosslinkedStyreneAcrylate emulsioncopolymer for automotivefilters Cartacoat B 642 : self-crosslinkedStyreneAcrylate emulsioncopolymer for automotivefilters Teabags +Typical properties wecantailor : +Wet anddry tensilestrength +Hot water resistance +Foodcontact compliance FDA 176.180 and176.170 BfR 36 Cartacoat B 631 is thebuildingblock Cartacoat B 631: StyreneAcrylateemulsioncopolymer dispersion Medical nonwovens +Typical properties wecantailor: +Sterilization( rays) Y +Fluidbarrier +Mechanical properties +Resistanceto alcohols +Soft hand Cartacoat B 600 is thebuildingblock Cartacoat B 600: StyreneAcrylateemulsioncopolymer dispersion Wet laidnon wovens Colour Chronicle April 2007 Coatedboard +Typical properties wecantailor : +Dry & Wet-strength +Smoothness +Mechanical resistance +Gloss +Printability +Foodcontact compliance Packaging Cartacoat B 631 andB 634 arethe buildingblocks Cartacoat B 631 andB 634 areStyreneAcrylateemulsion copolymers for coatedpaper andboardpaper Wax coatedboard +Replacement of wax +Typical Properties wecantailor : +Water barrier (Cobb) +Repulpability +Recyclingability +Easy handling +Application +Air-Knife, Bar, Blade, size-press Cartaseal FWP andFWT arethebuilding blocks Cartaseal FWP/FWT areformulations basedonStyrene Acrylateemulsioncopolymers Foodpackagingpapers andboard +Properties wecantailor : +Water resistance +WVTR (Water Vapor Resistance) +Fat resistance +Foodcontact compliance +Application +Air-Knife, Bar, Blade Cartaseal VGL andFTUarethebuilding blocks Cartaseal VGL andFTUareformulations basedonStyrene Acrylateemulsioncopolymers Greaseresistant foodpackaging +TheCartapack concept aims to replace fluorochemicals for fast-foodpackaging applications +Effectivecoatingformulations tailoredto eachcustomer dependingonrequirements +Comparableapplicationcost to fluorochemical treatment +Imminent official launch Cartapack 0602E and0604E arethe buildingblocks Cartapack 0602Eand0604Eareformulations basedon StyreneAcrylateemulsioncopolymers Anti-slippaper andboard +Properties wecantailor : +Frictioncoefficient +Foodcontact compliance +Water resistance +Temperatureresistance +Anti-blocking +Application +Gravureprinter +Photogravureprinters Cartaseal AXU, ATM, APMandAFMare thebuildingblock 17 PAPER 18 PAPER Colour Chronicle April 2007 Cartacoat Bbuildingblocks Summary Technical papers Wet laidnonwovens Packaging Decorationpaper Wallpaper andCoated wallpaper CoatedBottlelabels Ink jet Papers Filters Teabags Medical papers Coatedboard Cartacoat B 640, B 641 Cartacoat B 432 , B 433 Cartacoat B 631 and634 Cartacoat B 930 andB 750 Cartacoat B 650 Cartacoat B 631 Cartacoat B 600 Cartacoat B 631 andB 634 Cartacoat B Buildingblocks 0C -25C +25C +50C Tg StyreneAcrylates Vinyl Acrylates B 432 Wallpaper B 600 Medical non-woven B 433 Coated Wallpaper B 634 Coatedboard B 930, Inkjet B 631 Tea bags B 640, Decor paper B 642, Filters B 641, Decor paper B 650, Filters B 750, ink jet Buildingblocks for Packaging Packaging Coating Water barrier Greasebarrier Anti slip Cartacoat B 631 andB 634 Cartaseal FWtypes, Cartaseal VGL Cartapack grades Cartaseal A.. grades Global Cartaseal Product Range2006
Barrier Properties Water Vapour Fat/ Grease Water Other Properties Anti-Slip Heat Resistance Heat Seal Overcoat- ability Product Category F F F V T S N A A A A SuitableDryingMethod Non- Contact Drying Cylinder Product Name Cartaseal FTU Cartaseal FWT Cartaseal FWP Cartaseal VGL Cartaseal TPU Cartaseal SVU Cartaseal NW Cartaseal AXU Cartaseal ATM Cartaseal APM Cartaseal AFM FoodContact FDA/BfR Approval Yes / Yes No/ No No/ No Yes / No Yes / Yes Yes / Yes No/ No No/ No No/ No No/ No Yes / Yes Excellent for this application Goodfor this application Not recommendedfor this application Overall emulsionpolymer range Binders Barrier and anti-slip additives Range Cartacoat B Cartaseal / Cartapack Technical papers Wet-laidnon wovens Packaging Other additives Range Technical papers Wet-laidnon wovens Packaging Glyoxal and zirconium- based Crosslinkers Surfacesizing Rheology modifiers Grease resistance fluoropolymers Cartabond TSI/LSZ/ZK Cartacol Cartacoat RM Cartafluor CFI /NFI Buildingblocks chief characteristics Buildingblock TginC PH Solids content Comments Cartacoat B 640 28 4 50 Thermal crosslinking Cartacoat B 641 28 5 50 Cartacoat B 642 28 4 50 Thermal crosslinking Cartacoat B 432 20 5 50 Thermal crosslinking Cartacoat B 433 19 7 50 Cartacoat B 634 8 7 50 Cartacoat B 930 12 8 50 Nonionic product Cartacoat B 750 51 4 30 Cationic product Cartacoat B 650 47 4 50 Thermal crosslinking Cartacoat B 631 20 8 50 Cartacoat B 600 -25 2.5 50 Thermal crosslinking 19 CLARINT CONSULTANCY SERVICE SECTION Colour Chronicle April 2007 Clariant Consultancy Service Section Poor / Unevensurface; Improper removal of kitties inheavy drill fabric onjigger andwhiteness variationaresomeof theother major problems encounteredduringprocessing Problems +Poor / Unevenabsorbency +Poor dyepick uponviscoseandpolynosics component +Bleedingof color to theadjacent white portion +Lighter selvedgewhenscouredinJ T-10 +Dark coloredpatches ProbableCauses/Remedies Improper Scouringdueto: +Paucity of Alkali +Channelingof Kier liquor +Inadequateboilingtime +Negativepick-up +Insufficient steaminginsteamer +Inadequatedwell timeinCBR/J -Box +Droppingof steamcondensates water duringbatchingonPad-roll system +Dueto theuseof poor quality of wetting agents whichhavelow alkali stability and hencecannot assist thepenetrationof caustic soda for efficient saponification reaction. Becauseof poor detergency and dispersingeffects, paraffinwax cannot be removedcompletely. +Orientationof skinof viscose/polynosics, thereby makingpenetrationof dyedifficult +Presenceof hydrolyzedstarchactingas a reducingagent +Recuperator temperaturemorethan 0 60C +Dueto improper oxidativetreatment mainly Sodiumhypochloritebleaching. Theselvedgegets moreexposedto air +Fabric comingindirect contact with concentratedfeedingalkali +Frequent stoppages of mercerizing machine +Dry upof improperly neutralizedalkali after mercerization +Abrasionbeforedyeing Remedial Measures +Maintainproper concentrationof alkali +Ensureproper pilingof fabric into thekier +Maintainproper boilingtimedependingon fabric quality +Ensure15-20%differential wet pick-upon saturators +Ensureproper steampressure +Maintainthedesireddwell timeby controllingthespeedof themachine dependingonfabric quality +Ensureproper threadingandheatingof TRC to avoidsteamcondensation/droppingon cloth +Useof Hostapal MRN Liqconc. is recommendedas a wettingcumdetergent. Thesynergistic properties of theproduct helpto penetrateinto thecoreof thefibre by eliminatingfibre-liquidsurfacetension andsaponificationof oil impurities. So fabrics gets very goodabsorbency. +Causticizegoods with(or leachingof surfaceof viscose) 60 g/l Caustic Soda 5 g/l Mercerol QWN.IN LiqThoroughhot wash, coldwashNeutralize withSirrix N Liqconc +Usemildoxidizingagent likeRevatol S. IN p +Recuperator temperatureshouldnot 0 exceed60C +EnsureuniformpHof thefabric at the body andnear theselvedgebefore oxidativetreatment +If possible, avoidhypochlorite bleachingandgiveProtonic treatment withSirrix 2UD.IN Liq+ Hostapal MRN Liqconc. followedby Peroxidebleaching +Ensureproper feedingof alkali +Avoidfrequent stoppages of mercerizer +Efficient neutralisationof thealkali after mercerization +Check for roughsurfaces infabric flow. 20 Effectivelevelinganddispersingagent for polyester processing Physico-chemical properties +Exhibits effectivelevelinganddispersingproperties for uniform dyeingandprintingwithout retardingaction. +Produces bright dyeing +Prevents filteringoff of dyes duringpackagedyeing. +Excellent oil emulsifyingproperty +Fabric substantivelevelingagent +Also suitablefor automotiveyarndyeing +Yellowish, readily pourableliquid +Anionic +Readily Dilutablewithwater +Goodstability to hardwater, acids, alkalis, salts +Compatiblewithproducts of various Ionicity 0 +Storage-stableunder normal conditions, i.e., between0 50C Eganal PS Liquid A new bio-catalyst basedonselectedpectatelyaseenzymes for theremoval of pectines andassociatedhydrophobic materials in thebio-scouringof cottonandits components inblends +Enzymatic catalyst for theremoval of hydrophobic materials inorder to giveanexcellent absorbency to thefabric. +Substitutes thesoda scouring +Optimumprice/performanceratio +Works at bathpHapproximately 8.5 9.5 +Significant reductionof overall process costs dueto savinginwater, energy andprocess time. +Less rinsingneededafter bio-scouringfor dark shades' dyeing. +No neutralizationneeded +Enzymatic treatment with Bactosol COipLiquidoffers all possible advantages withregardto efficiency, economy andecology (Clariant EEE concept) Bactosol CO ip Liquid
NEWARRIVAL Diagram: Process withBactosol COipliquid o Temperature(C) 0 20 40 60 80 100 15min o 95C 15min o 73Cmin Bio-Scouring Drain Dyeing 0.2%Sodaash pH=8.5- 9.0 0.1%Bactosol COipliq 0.4%Imerol NLFLiquid 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 Time(min) 21 Colour Chronicle April 2007 Bio-scouring(withBactosol COipLiquid) Vs Conventional Scouring& Bleaching (Substrate 100%Cottonknits) Test Parameter Conventional Bio-scouringprocess Process Time 105 mins 80 mins Packagecost Rs 2.52/- Rs 2.03/- Absorbency Droptest Instant Instant Absorbency Wicking 60 mm 59 mm COD 7784 mg/lit 741 mg/lit BOD 4000 mg/lit 300 mg/lit TDS 4666 mg/lit 923 mg/lit Ceraperm MD Plus for the Comfort of Cotton & feel of leather Speciality Finishfor altogether different handle a leather touchto your fabric +Newly developedCerapermMDplus alonewhenappliedthroughpaddinggives a uniqueleather handleto thefabric after curing. +Imparts goodbounceto thefabric. +Imparts goodelasticity & stretchto thefabric particularly onknits. +Fabric becomes muchfuller & soft. +Produces excellent dry-bouncehandleonpolyester saris. +Fabric does not becomelimp. MULTI-DIMENSIONAL EFFECTS NEWARRIVAL BOUNCE PERMANENCE BODY NOLIMP DRYBOUNCE ONPES LEATHER ELASTICITY STRETCH 22 Inside Views Apparel & FashionMeet inBangalore Mr ChristophBergmann(Apparel & Fashion, Clariant International) was inIndia to promote theApparel & FashionConcept inIndia andto meet someof our key customers. Duringhis visit, a customer meet was organizedin Bangaloreandwas attendedby several leading brands andapparel manufacturers. Special effects andvarious functional finishes as per theendusewerediscussed. Printofix New Rangeintroduced Technical meets wereorganizedfor Printofix concept inTirupur andDelhi duringthevisit of StefanSchlosser (PG Printing, Clariant International). Introducingthenew Printofix T premiumrangewithvery highfastness levels & Printofix A range rangewithmoderatelevel of fastness, pigment dispersions for pigment printing, Mr Schlosser highlightedthe various uniquefeatures of therangeandthebenefits they offer to printers suchas highdispersionstability, very low viscosity of pigment dispersion. TexSummit 2007 Clariant was theGOLDSponsor for the TexSummit 2007, aninternational conference onContemporary Processingof Textiles & Apparels: Challenges andOpportunities which was heldinMumbai onJ anuary 11, 2007. The Conferencewas organizedby theUICT (formerly UDCT). Mr Anjani Prasad(Head Textile, Leather & Paper Chemicals Division) presenteda paper onNovel effects inGarment processingandvalueaddedfinishes. HehighlightedClariant's products andservices offerings for textiles that has strengthenedthe company's imageas a Total Solution provider. Someof theservices promotedwere consultancy service, certificatecourseonwet processingof textiles andpackages likeEasy Pre, Ant-Ox, pad-Ox, Black magic andso on. TheDivisions publications wereondisplay at a stall at thevenue. Technical Workshop Wet enddyes andchemicals for Leather Industry Mr. J ohnAlanGrant, FinishingtechnicianvisitedIndia for trials withkey customers fromFebruary 19 to March9, 2007. A technical workshop withcustomer projects for wet enddyes & chemicals was completedin J anuary 2007 by Mr. Angel Navarro. Mr. CliveSibbornvisitedtheSouth & East markets fromJ anuary 28 to February 6, 2007. Colour Chronicle April 2007 INSIDE VIEWS Apparel & FashionMeet inBangalore Mr. A. K. Prasadat TexSummit 2007 23 Colour Chronicle April 2007 International TextileConference Clariant also sponsoreda dinner at the International TextileConference organizedby DKTE Society's TextileandEngineering Instituteas part of their Silver J ubilee CelebrationfromFebruary 17 -18, 2007. Various emergingareas likenano-technology, technical textiles, recent advances in machinery andtechnology werethehighlight of theevent. Mr Nirmal Punjabi presenteda paper onSpecializedPreparatory, dyeingand finishingprocesses for fabrics andgarments. Various specialty / valueaddedfinishes, concepts fromPre-treatment to dyeing processes fromClariant werethehighlights. First certificatecourseonWet Processing of Textilesby Clariant Thefirst CertificateCourseonWet Processing of Textiles was successfully conductedat the factory premises of M/s OBEETEE PVT LTD, Gopiganj, Distt. Bhadohi, UP. This Customer is most reputedWoolenCarpet yarnDyers and Processor anda trendsetter .Most of the Woolencarpet is exported. Trainingwas organizedintwo batches for a total of 28 participants fromdyeingheadto shopfloor supervisors workinginshifts. Theoneweek trainingwas organizedto createawareness about various textilefinishes, pre-treatment processes, dyeingandthefaults relatedto dyeing. Other topics suchas roleof auxiliaries, laboratory test procedures, RFD(ready for dyeing) andshadecorrectionmethods werealso discussed. TheCertificatecoursewas conductedwithout disturbingtheparticipant's jobschedule. Mr P K Trivedi (GM Technical Services), Mr S P Verma (Regional Manager Mirzapur) andMr Sanjeev Sinha (Manager PGW/S/N Dyes & Chemicals) werethefaculty for this trainingProgramme. Thecoursewas appreciatedby themanagement of Obeeteeandthey haveaskedus to offer other Consultancy Services likeProcess Audit of their Mills. INSIDE VIEWS International TextileConference Participants fromM/s ObeeteewithClariant teamduringthetraining 1 = unfinished 2 = traditional soil releasefinish 3 = easy clean& body comfort 1 2 3 1 2 3 24 Colour Chronicle April 2007 Apparel and Fashion Section Easy clean and body comfort Clariant's effort andinnovationto meet themodernrequirements of garments results inanoutstandingfinish: easy clean& body comfort Ordinary finishes inthepast haveprotectedagainst stains but withloss of wearingproperties. Classical soil releasefinishes reducethecapability of thefabrics moisturemanagement transportationdramatically. WithClariant's new easy clean& body comfort, overcomethe discomfort andfeel great at any time andany place. +Easy removal of dirt andstains duringlaundry +Excellent body climatedueto fast andeffectivemoisture transportationaway fromthe skin +Improveddryingproperties +Durableeffect evenafter multiplewashes This effect has a highperformanceregardingmoisturemanagement and soil & stainrelease. 1. Hydrophilic properties Oncotton-twill (left) andcotton-interlock (right) 2. Soil andstainreleaseproperties Soiledwithcookingoil andthenlaunderedonetime (accordingAATCC 130) Characteristics of effect are This finishingeffect is suitablefor different fabrics (Co, Co/PES). Nuva4118 Liquid +newly developednanotechbasedhydrophilic soil releasefinish +excellent wickingproperties +Goodwashingpermanency SolusoftTOWLiquidConc. +Hydrophilic siliconesoftener +Ideal for moisturemanagement +finishfine, super soft, elegant handlemeans excellent wearability +No yellowingonwhitegoods +Suitablefor overprinting HydropermHVLiquid +Hydrophilic siliconesoftener +Gives soft andfull handlewithhighwickingproperty +Additionally usedintheeasy-carefinish HydropermSRHA Liquid +Moisturemanagement, soil releaseandanti-static properties +Wicks moistureaway fromskin +Dries morequickly +Stays soft andbreathable +Durableeffects upto 30 laundries FluowetUDLiquid +Special wettingagent for fluorocarbonapplication +Adversely affect thehydrophilic effect of finishes becauseit has no rewettingproperties Additionally a new effect label to visualizetheaddedvalueof the combinationof soil & stainreleaseandmoisturemanagement. Followingaretheproducts to achieveeasy clean& body comfort Unfinished Traditional soil releasefinish easy clean& body comfort APPAREL ANDFASHION SECTION 25 Colour Chronicle April 2007 Corporate Product Safety (CPS) Mountingawareness andconcernfor consumer andenvironmental protection, increasingly stringent statutory regulations, retailer standards andvarious eco-labelingrequirements havemadeproduct safety testinga mandatory pre-requisitefor doingbusiness today. Thereareseveral reasons +Legislations relatedto Chemistry, arebecomingincreasingly expansiveandcomplex worldwide. +Product exclusionlists fromInsurers arebeingannually extended. +MoreandmoreRetailers arecomingupwiththeir individual RestrictedSubstances Lists withvariedlimits +RequiredSupport withinClariant onEcotoxicological issues includingtesting. Withthis new labwewill ensurethat our products arealways compliant withcurrent legislation, regulations andstandards. A uniquelabandonly of its kindinIndia dealingwithprocess andproduct safety parameters, thelabconducts, NeedandImportanceof Product Safety intoday's scenario Responsibility: Key tasks: +Provideproduct safety services +Support fulfillment of legal requirements & Customer needs +Propose& implement PS plan, budget andresources +Performchemical evaluationandregistrations +Communicateimportant health& environmental issues +Support legal departments onliability/claimissues +Safeguardcompliancewithdefinedstandards & guidelines +Support Emergency Management +ManageREACHrelatedactivities CORPORATE PRODUCT SAFETY Clariant starts its world class product safety testing facilities at Kolshet, Thane. +Restrictedsubstances testing Testingof restrictedor bannedsubstances inClariant products as well as finishedarticles madeusingClariant's products. +Ecological testing Certainecological tests, whichhelpinassessingthe environmental impact of products +Physical testing For safeproduction, storageandtransportationof products as they helpindefiningprocess parameters, storageandtransport classificationandhazardhandling LMWgroupco to diversify into hometextiles Madura Garment lines uptwo-way split GrasimIndustries to launchnew generationviscosefibre Welspuneyes $75 Mbuys inUK, Europe TheLMWgroupoutfit AdwaithLakshmi Industries Ltd. Is forayinginto hometextiles/terry products to takeadvantageof stronggrowth prospects seeninexport of cottonmade-ups Thecompany is set to implement a Rs 15 croreinvestment plantowards creatinga hometextile divisionwhichwill focus onproducingbath/ bed-linens andterry products for export markets. Thecompany is havingits ownyarn productionunit witha cumulative35,000 spindlecapacity, producing 75 tonnes of yarnper month. Thehometextileproject will beableto draw 25 %of this yarnfor captiveusefor hometextileproducts, thus givingvalueadditionto its spinningoperations A VBirla group(AVB) is set to split Madura Garments, thecountry's largest brandedapparel business, into two companies. Thegroupis poisedto unveil MGLifestyleBrands andRetail Business a new fashion brands company operatingwithkey brands likeLouis Philippe, AllenSolly andVanHeusen besides lifestyleretail formats suchas Planet Fashion andTrouser Town. Aditya Birla Group's GrasimIndustries is expectedto commercially launchits thirdgenerationviscosefibre'Excel' next month. Thenew fiber, after its viscoseandmodal fibreranges will bepositionedat the premiumcellulosic fibrethat wouldbeusedfor manufactureof highend apparels suchas shirtingor denimfabrics that areexpectedto carry higher fabric strengthandthebouncy look. Thecompany's mainviscose fibreplant at Nagda inMadhya Pradeshhas takenuptrial productionof thenew generationtextilefibers intendedto cater to thehighendfabric application. Youwill hear Vimal Onceagain TheRs 300 croreVimal textilebrand, launched27 years ago by Reliance Industries, is preparingfor a major comeback this April. Thecompany is planningto launcha separateapparel brandinready-madeformal menswear, besides introducingnewer rangeof fabrics to its existing textiledivision. Theapparel rangewouldsport a different brandname andwouldcater to premium, midandaffordablesegments. Thecompany has also signedonMaurizio Bonas, of master suit-craftsmen fromItaly repute, to introducenew designs inmen's formal wear to especially cater to theyounger clienteleinIndia. WelspunIndia, thecountry's largest terry towel producer and exporter, is eyeingfurther acquisitions after grabbing85%stakeinCHT holdings, theholdingcompany of UK's largest andnumber oneterry towel brandChristy for Rs 132 crorelast year. Currently thetextile major is exploringoptions to acquireanother company witha minimum sizeof $50-75 millioninUK or Europeto gainaccess to new customers andmarkets easily. Christy hadaddedthemuchneededflipto the Welspunportfolio, whichdidnot havea brandof its owninthemarket, thoughit has thelicenseto market Tommy Hilfiger intheUS andCanada. Together withits domestic brandSpaces, theRs 1000 croreWelspunwill muster 20%of its consolidatedsales frombrandedproducts in2007- 2008. Gleanings from Press 26 GLEANINGS FROM PRESS Colour Chronicle April 2007 Textile Technology andperformancecometogether inworld's lightest shoe 5 SEZfootwear parks by 2010-2011 Leather industry targets $7 bnexports by 2011 Adidas announcedreleaseof its highly anticipatedrunningshoe- adizero inIndia. Nicknamed'Zero Gravity' adizero is world's lightest shoeand has beendesignedkeepinginmindtheneeds of bothfitness conscious peoplewho liketo runandprofessional runners. A groundbreaking combinationof comfort andhighperformance, theadizero finishedfirst inmorethan15 of theworld's most challengingmarathons in2006, provingits outstandingdesignandcompetitiveadvantage. Fivespecial economic zonefootwear parks werebeingdeveloped, under theCouncil for Leather Exports (CLE) visionmapfor 2010-2011 which envisages settinguptheseparks invarious parts of thecountry. Oneof thepark at Sriperumbudur near Chennai is beingpromotedby Tamil Nadu government whichwill havethecapacity to manufactureonelakhpairs of footwear a day. Other parks arescheduledto comeupnear Kanpur, Hyderabad, Agra andKolkata. TheIndianLeather Industry has set $7 billionexport target by 2011. It is eager to forgetie-ups withvarious Italianleather goods designers to achievethetarget. AnItaliandelegation, whichhadrecently visited Kolkata recently, showedinterest inIndia's leather industry. Italy's Arpel Group, aninternational school for shoes andleather accessories designing, is currently lookingfor partners inIndia. Retail major Wal-Mart is also eyeingtheIndianLeather sector. Leather Contact PrintedandPublishedby K. Vasudev, onbehalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Designedby Greysell MarketingPromotions Pvt. Ltd. andPrintedat Marisha Arts, Editorial Group: Mr. K. Vasudev (Editor), Dr. G.V.G. Rao, Dr. A.L.N. Rao, Dr. D. M. Wakankar, Dr. S.B. J oshi, Mr. Diganta Ghosh. I, K. Vasudev, hereby declarethat particulars giveninthebook aretrueto thebest of my knowledgeandbelief.