T

h e Sh ak ers li ved th ei r li ves

ap art from th e world , wh at
th ey called li fe ou tsi d e th ei r reli gi ou s
com m u n i ti es. T h ey d i d a lot of th i n gs
d i fferen tly from th e world , i n clu d i n g
sleep . B ecau se th e Sh ak ers were celi -
bate, th ey h ad li ttle n eed for d ou ble
bed s an d u sed th em on ly to save
sp ace. Two m en , wom en , or ch i ld ren
wou ld sleep togeth er i n th ese.
M an y Sh ak er-d esi gn ed si n gle bed s
d i d n ot break d own . T h e si d e rai ls
were ten on ed i n to th e legs ju st li k e
th e h ead board s an d footboard s.
Alm ost all of th e bed s h ad casters on
th e legs. T h i s m ad e i t easy to m ove
th e bed ou t of th e way wh en sweep i n g
th e floors. T h e bed s were also relati ve-
ly h i gh off th e grou n d to k eep ou t of
th e cold d rafts n ear th e floor.
T h i s bed i s n ot a cop y of a p arti cu lar
Sh ak er bed . I n stead , I h ave borrowed
elem en ts from a n u m ber of Sh ak er bed s
I h ave seen . Som e of m y con stru cti on
d etai ls rem ai n fai th fu l to trad i ti on al
Sh ak er con stru cti on . B u t I h ave m ad e
con cessi on s to m od ern li vi n g an d to
con tem p orary wood work i n g tech n i qu es.
I ch ose to m ak e th i s a fu ll-si ze bed ,
wh i ch i s m ore u sefu l th an th e 28-i n .-
to 34-i n .-wi d e an d 70-i n .- to 72-i n .-
lon g ori gi n als. I also om i tted th e
casters. I h esi tate to say th at th ese
ch an ges m ak e th e bed better, bu t th ey
certai n ly m ak e i t m ore fam i li ar an d
com fortable for u s tod ay.
Shaker-Style Bed
37
THE BASIC STRUCTURE of the Shaker-Style Bed
is similar to the First Bed. However, the legs are
turned, the headboard and footboard planks do
double duty as structural rails, and the cleats are
integral with the side rail design.
S h a k e r-S t y le B e d
38 S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D
Twin* 18
1
2 12
3
4
Queen 22 14
1
4
* For a twin bed, shorten the headboard square
section to 14
1
2 and make the height of the
headboard 13
1
4 where it meets the leg.
Note: A king-size Shaker-Style Bed is not recommended.
OTHER BED SIZES
Side rail
H e ad b o ard
Rail
Cleat
Footboard
height in center
Headboard
height in center
Square
section
Slats
Bolt hole
cover
S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D 39
Footboard
H E A D B O A R D E N D O F S I D E R A I L
6
3
4
F O O T B O A R D E N D O F S I D E R A I L
1
1
4
H e ad b o ard le g
R ails are
1
1
1 6 th ick.
T h e o ve rall le n g th o f th e h e ad b o ard an d
fo o tb o ard p lan ks in clu d in g te n o n s) is 5 6
3
8 .
H E A D B O A R D D E T A I L S
5 3
3
1 6 to o p p o site le g
H e ad b o ard 1
1
1 6 th ick)
F O O T B O A R D D E T A I L S
Footboard leg
T h is cu rve is a se ctio n o f an
e llip se with a m in o r d iam e te r o f
1 8 an d a m ajo r d iam e te r o f 5 8 .
F o o tb o ard 1
1
1 6 th ick)
WO O D E N B O LT H O L E C O V E R
2
3 2
C h am fe r
1 3
5
8
5 3
3
1 6 to o p p o site le g
8
3
4
26
12
1
3
4
3
3
1 0
4
3
8
1
Cleat
S h allo w
m o rtise
3
8 b o lt
h o le
1 4
3
4
2 0
3
4
1 5
5
8
3
5
1 2
1
2
1
2
1
1
8
1
1
4
1
1
8
A
LT H O U G H T H I S B E D look s very d i f-
feren t from th e F i rst B ed on p p . 1 8-35,
th e overall ap p roach to bu i ld i n g i t i s th e
sam e. To start, you work on th e h ead board
an d footboard togeth er. T h en m ove on to th e
si d e rai ls an d fi n ally th e m attress su p p ort. T h e
tu rn ed legs are n ot essen ti al to th e con stru c-
ti on , bu t th ey are to th e d esi gn . You can m ak e
th e bed wi th strai gh t or tap ered legs, bu t i t
won t look as n i ce.
Making the
Headboard and
Footboard
Mi l l i ng t he headboard and
f oot board pl anks
1. M i ll u p th e p i eces for th e h ead board an d
footboard p lan k s.
2. I f you re n ot work i n g wi th a si n gle board
p lan k , glu e th e p i eces i n to sli gh tly oversi ze
p lan k s.
3. C u t th e p lan k s to si ze, m ak i n g su re th e
ed ges are p arallel an d th e en d s squ are.
Cut t i ng t he t enons
T h i s bed d oesn t h ave a sep arate h ead board
an d footboard rai l to p rovi d e stru ctu ral
stren gth , so th e p lan k s th em selves n eed stru c-
tu ral ten on s. H owever, 8-i n .- to 1 4-i n .-wi d e
m orti se-an d -ten on joi n ts wou ld break ap art
d u e to season al wood m ovem en t. T h e trad i -
ti on al solu ti on i s to m ak e a d i vi d ed ten on ( see
H ead board an d F ootboard Joi n ery on p . 42) .
1. C u t th e h ead board an d footboard p lan k
ten on sh ou ld ers wi th th e ten on i n g ji g
d escri bed i n A Ten on i n g Ji g on p . 24 an d a
4-i n .-lon g strai gh t bi t. To u se th e ji g wi th th e
wi d e h ead board , rem ove th e verti cal fen ce
from th e work p i ece su p p ort. You ll h ave to cu t
th e ten on s a p orti on at a ti m e ( see photo A .
40 S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D
CUT LIST FOR SHAKER BED
Head b o ar d and Fo o t b o ar d
1 Headboard plank 1
1
16 in. x 20
3
4 in. x 56
3
8 in.
1 Footboard plank 1
1
16 in. x 13
5
8 in. x 56
3
8 in.
2 Headboard posts 2 in. x 2 in. x 32
1
4 in.
2 Footboard posts 2 in. x 2 in. x 26
1
4 in.
Si d e Rai l s
2 Side rails 1
1
16 in. x 3 in. x 76
1
2 in.
2 Ogees for headboard ends 1
1
16 in. x 5 in. x 12 in.
2 Ogees for footboard ends 1
1
16 in. x 3 in. x 10 in.
2 Cleats 1 in. x 2
5
16 in. x 76 in.
15 Slats
3
4 in. x 4 in. x 54
1
8 in.
Har d war e
30 Dowels (for slat pins)
5
16 in. x 1
1
2 in.
4 Hex-head bolts with nuts and washers
4 Bolt hole covers 1
1
4 in. x 1
3
4 in. x
1
4 in. thick
#6 x 1
5
8-in. screws, as needed
#6 x
3
4-in. roundhead brass screws, as needed
These dimensions are for a full-size bed with a mattress up to 8 in. thick. You
may have to adjust your dimensions to suit the bed size, the mattress size, or
any differences in wood dimensions.
Building the Bed Step-by-Step
Tip: The moisture in yellow glue
swells wood slightly along joint edges.
Wait 24 hours before smoothing the
surfaces to give the moisture a chance
to evaporate and the wood to settle
back down.
S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D 41
2. L ay ou t th e secti on s of ten on th at wi ll stay
fu ll len gth an d th e sh ort
1
4-i n . h au n ch es.
3. C u t away th e waste on th e ban d saw an d
th en p are away all of th e h au n ch ten on on th e
very top an d bottom to leave sh ou ld ers.
Layi ng out and cut t i ng t he
cur ve on t op of t he pl anks
T h e h ead board an d footboard on th i s bed
h ave elli p ti cal cu rves. I f you re u n fam i li ar
wi th elli p se layou t, see An E lli p se L ayou t Ji g
on p . 1 1 7. You can also u se a si m p le cu rve as
for th e F i rst B ed .
1. L ay ou t ei th er a si m p le cu rve or an elli p se
alon g th e top ed ge of th e board .
2. C u t th e cu rve ou t on th e ban d saw, k eep i n g
to th e ou tsi d e of th e li n e.
3. C lean u p th e sawn ed ge wi th a p lan e or
san d p ap er.
Cut t i ng t he l eg j oi ner y
1. M i ll u p th e leg blan k s. T h e cu t li st d i m en -
si on s are
1
4 i n . lon ger th an fi n i sh ed . T h e extra
1
4 i n . on th e top of th e legs i s for th e tu rn i n g
cen ters on th e lath eyou ll cu t i t off an d
sm ooth i t to sh ap e later.
2. L ay ou t th e m orti ses for th e h ead board ,
footboard , an d si d e rai ls as sh own i n
H ead board an d F ootboard Joi n ery on p . 42.
R em em ber th at th e left an d ri gh t legs are n ot
i d en ti cal, th ou gh th ey are sym m etri cal.
3. M ark li n es th at i n d i cate th e en d of th e sec-
ti on s th at rem ai n squ are all th e way across th e
Phot o A: One good
way t o cut t he f ull-
widt h t enons on t he
headboard and f oot -
board is wit h t he
t enoning jig on
p. 24 and a 4-in.-
long rout er bit .
42 S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D
Double tenons are the traditional way to join a wide headboard to legs. Wood movement may
still cause cracking because the overall movement of the plank is still constrained. But the
joints should remain structurally sound. To minimize cracking, make sure the wood is very dry.
The haunches are not glued and help keep the headboard from warping.
H e a d b o a rd a n d F o o t b o a rd J o i n e ry
F O O T B O A R D L E G B L A N K A N D T E N O N
F o o tb o ard
1
1 9
3 2
5
26
1
4
1
2
1
5
8 d e e p
m o rtise
2
1
2
2
2
1
2
1 3
1
2
1 3
1
8
1 2
8
3
4
2
1
2
1
4
H E A D B O A R D L E G B L A N K A N D T E N O N
5
8
H e ad b o ard
1
2
3 2
1
4
7
1 3
1
8
1 3
1
2
2
3
4
3
2
1
2
3
2
3
4
2
1
2
3
2
1
2
3
2
1
2
1 4
3
4
1 2
Alternative Joinery
For Headboard And Footboard
The headboard and footboard planks are structural on
this bed. While the traditional construction method is a
divided tenon, wood movement may cause cracking
because the overall movement of the plank is still con-
strained. An alternative method is to use a single tenon
in the center. This design allows for unconstrained move-
ment and little chance of cracking.
The disadvantage of this technique is that the joint
may not keep the headboard plank as tight against the
legs. It also offers less glue surface (and strength) than
the divided tenons. Using fat haunches (shallow tenons,
really) without glue to either side of the tenon helps keep
the headboard from warping.
blan k at th e top an d bottom . You n eed th ese
m ark s wh en tu rn i n g.
4. C u t th e si d e rai l m orti ses
9
32 i n . d eep , ju st
d eep en ou gh to k eep th e rai l from twi sti n g
or m ovi n g d own . T h e best tools for th e job
are a p lu n ge rou ter an d th e m orti si n g block
d escri bed i n M orti si n g Ji g for R ou ti n g Sm all
Work p i eces on p . 23.
S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D 43
5. Also cu t th e h ead board an d footboard m or-
ti ses
9
32 i n . d eep over th ei r fu ll len gth . T h en
go back an d cu t th e two fu ll-d ep th m orti ses
1
5
8 i n . d eep .
6. D ri ll th e
3
4-i n .-d i am eter,
3
8-i n .-d eep cou n -
terbore for th e bed bolts on th e ou tsi d e of
each leg.
8
3
4
8
3
4
F o o tb o ard
F O O T B O A R D
2
3
2
1
3
4
3
1
3
4
8
3
4
H E A D B O A R D
H e ad b o ard
5
4
5
4
3
4
4
4
3
4
1 4
3
4
M a k i n g t h e Tu rn i n g P a t t e rn
7. D ri ll th e
5
1 6-i n . h oles for th e 5
1
2-i n . h ex-
h ead bed bolts th rou gh th e legs, cen tered i n
th e cou n terbore. To en su re th at th e bolt h ole
i s strai gh t, d ri ll i n from both si d es an d m eet
i n th e m i d d le. I t s th e lon g way arou n d to d o
i t, bu t i t en su res a good resu lt.
Tur ni ng t he l egs
1. M ak e u p fu ll-scale p attern s of th e u p p er
an d lower p arts of th e tu rn i n gs on p i eces of
1
4-i n . p lywood , 2
1
2 i n . wi d e an d as lon g as th e
secti on i n volved ( see M ak i n g th e Tu rn i n g
P attern ) .
2. Set u p th e blan k i n th e lath e.
3. Set th e tool rest i n p osi ti on for rou gh i n g
ou t th e cyli n d ri cal lower leg. R otate th e leg
blan k by h an d to ch eck th at th e tool rest
won t i n terfere wi th th e blan k wh en i t s
sp i n n i n g.
44 S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D
M A K I N G T H E
P A T T E R N
1 . D raw th e p ro file s o f
th e tu rn in g o n th e
p lywo o d . E ith e r
ske tch it o u t b y h an d
o r trace an e n larg e d
p h o to co p y.
2 . D raw p e rp e n d icu lar
lin e s o u t to o n e
e d g e o f th e p atte rn .
T h e se will late r se rve
as d e p th -o f-cu t an d
tu rn in g -d e tail g u id e s.
3 . A t e ach o f th e se
lin e s, cu t a sh allo w
n o tch with a kn ife o r
a saw, ju st b ig
e n o u g h to h o ld a
p e n cil p o in t.
4 . M ark th e d iam e te r
o f th e le g at e ach o f
th e in d icate d p o in ts
o n th e p atte rn .
1
1
4
1
9
1 6
1
1
4 1
N o tch e s fo r p o in t
o f p e n cil
1
7
8
Tip: Use wood with
straight, even grain
for the legs. You
dont want much
grain runout on the
relatively long and
thin legs because it
will weaken them
considerably.
4. R ou gh ou t th e top an d bottom of th e
blan k i n to cyli n d ers wi th a rou gh i n g gou ge,
stayi n g abou t
1
2 i n . away from th e ed ges of
th e squ are secti on .
5. C lean u p th e tran si ti on between cyli n d er
an d squ are secti on u si n g a gou ge, work i n g
slowly to th e li n e. Start th e cu t wi th th e tool
u p on ed ge, th en roll th e gou ge flatter toward
th e bottom of th e cu t, k eep i n g th e bevel ru b-
bi n g agai n st th e sp i n n i n g leg ( see photo Bon
p . 46) . I f you ju st p resen t th e tool flat ( li k e a
scrap i n g tool) , you re li k ely to tear a ch u n k
off th e ed ges of th e squ are secti on .
6. U si n g a p en ci l, tran sfer th e n otch locati on s
from th e p attern to th e sp i n n i n g blan k ( see
photo C on p . 46) .
7. U si n g a p arti n g tool, tu rn n otch es i n th e
blan k wh ere you h ave m ark ed i t to th e vari -
ou s d i am eters ( see L eg Tu rn i n g Strategy ) .
N ote th at you d on t d o th i s on every li n e you
1
1
3 2
1
1
8
1
1 3
1 6
F O R B E L O W T H E S Q U A R E S E C T I O N
B rad to re g iste r
fro m th e to p o f
th e tu rn in g b lan k
Plywood patterns with notches to hold the tip of a pencil help you
mark the turning blank accurately while its spinning in the lathe.
C u t away th e co rn e r
to p re ve n t te aro u t o n
th e sq u are se ctio n
wh e n th e p atte rn is in
u se .
B rad to re g iste r
b o tto m o f tu rn in g
b lan k
F O R A B O V E T H E S Q U A R E S E C T I O N
1
4 p lywo o d
1
1
3 2
1
7
8
1
1
2
m ark ed . Som e of th e li n es i n d i cate th e loca-
ti on of a ch an ge from on e d etai l to an oth er,
an d you ll h ave to tu rn n ext to th em . O n
oth ers, su ch as th e si d es of th e bead below
th e squ are secti on , you can t get a p arti n g
tool or cali p ers i n to th e sm all sp ace. Si ze
th ese by eye.
8. Wh ere you can , set you r cali p ers for each
d esi red d i am eter an d red u ce th e blan k wi th
th e p arti n g tool u n ti l th e cali p ers ju st fi t over
th e leg at th at p oi n t ( see photo D on p . 46) .
9. C on n ect th e grooves wi th th e p arti n g tool,
followi n g th e sh ap e on th e p attern . U se wh at-
ever tu rn i n g tools you p refer ( see photo Eon
p . 47) . Watch th e flow of th e cu rves an d th e
overall sh ap e of th e leg to m ak e su re you are
d oi n g wh at you wan t. C orrect an y p roblem s
wi th a gen tle tou ch .
10. L eave a li ttle p ad of wood u n d er th e bot-
tom bead for th e tai lstock to bi te i n to. You
can rem ove th e p ad later an d rep lace i t wi th a
fu rn i tu re gli d e, or you can ju st leave i t.
11. Ad d d efi n i ti on to th e tu rn i n g by tou ch i n g
th e sh arp ti p of a sk ew ch i sel to th e tran si ti on
p oi n ts. Ju st a tou ch wi ll d o i t.
12. San d th e sp i n n i n g blan k wi th th e coarsest
gri t n ecessary, work i n g you r way u p th rou gh
400 gri t. B e carefu l n ot to san d away th e cri sp
S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D 45
Use the patterns to reduce the diameter of the turning blank to the desired dimension
in a few select places. This will allow you to envision the final leg shape as you turn by connecting the dots,
and help you make duplicates accurately.
L E G T U R N I N G S T R A T E G Y
ed ges of th e tran si ti on between squ are secti on
an d tu rn i n g. A good tech n i qu e i s to wrap a
1 -i n . d owel wi th san d p ap er an d work i t over
th e tran si ti on wh i le h old i n g on wi th two
h an d s ( see photo F on p . 47) .
13. B u rn i sh th e sm ooth tu rn i n g wi th a h an d -
fu l of clean sh avi n gs ( see photo Gon p . 48) .
14. Saw off th e waste at th e very top of th e
leg above th e fi n i al. T h en san d to com p lete
th e sh ap e.
15. Sm ooth th e faces of th e squ are secti on s.
B ecau se i t s i m p ortan t to k eep th e faces p er-
fectly flat, u se a well-tu n ed h an d p lan e. A
san d i n g block th at d oesn 't overh an g th e ed ges
wi ll also d o a good job, th ou gh i t s m ore li k ely
to rou n d over th e ed ges.
Assembl i ng t he headboard
and f oot board
1. F i t th e h ead board joi n ts u si n g a sh ou ld er
p lan e to tri m th e ten on s to si ze ( see photo H
on p . 48) . Stri ve for a sn u g fi t. T h e joi n t
sh ou ld go togeth er wi th som e effort, bu t
h eavy h am m eri n g sh ou ld n ot be n ecessary.
2. G lu e u p th e h ead b o ard an d fo o tb o ard .
Sp read glu e o n ly i n th e d eep m o rti ses; th e
h au n ch es get n o glu e at all. Yo u ll n eed at
least two clam p s to get th e legs ti gh t to th e
Tip: The marks you
put on the ends of
the pommel should
be easily visible
when the blank is
spinning.
C u t in with a ske w ch ise l. N o ro o m fo r p artin g to o l. )
C u t th e n o tch e s with a p artin g to o l.
46 S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D
Phot o D: Hold t he calipers wit h one hand and t he part ing
t ool wit h t he ot her hand. The calipers will drop over t he
sized not ch when you t urn t o t he correct diamet er.
Phot o C: Touching a pencil point light ly in each of
t he not ches on t he t urning pat t ern leaves an easily
visible mark on t he round leg blank. These marks will
guide your cut s.
Phot o B: Af t er
roughing out t he
cylinder below t he
joinery block, you
have t o cut t he t ran-
sit ion f rom square
t o round caref ully.
The gouge should
be up on edge as
you st art t he cut at
t he line.
S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D 47
Phot o E: Af t er
roughing out t he
shape of t his part
of t he leg wit h a
gouge, f inish up
t he cut wit h a skew
chisel.
Phot o F: Sand t he t ransit ion f rom square t o round using a sanding
dowel so you don t blur t he edges sanding by hand.
ten o n sh o u ld ers. C h eck th at th e ten o n s
are n o t to o lo n g fo r th ei r m o rti ses. T h ey
sh o u ld b e ab o u t
1
3 2 i n . sh o rt. O th erwi se
wh en yo u glu e u p , th e jo i n t m ay n o t co m e
fu lly to geth er.
Making the Side
Rails and Slats
1. M i ll u p th e 3-i n .-wi d e rai ls, getti n g a flat
an d sm ooth su rface on both ed ges becau se
you ll h ave glu e joi n ts on both .
2. C rosscu t to 77
1
2 i n . lon g, wh i ch leaves
1 i n . of extra len gth .
3. Sm ooth th e top ed ge of th e rai l wi th a
h an d p lan e n ow so you won t h ave to d o th i s
wi th th e block s attach ed . You can d o th i s later
wi th a scrap er an d san d p ap er, i f you p refer ( or
i f you forget, as I d i d ) .
Addi ng ogee bl ocks
t o t he si de r ai l s
1. R i p th e fou r ogee block s to wi d th , 5 i n . for
th e h ead board block s an d 3 i n . for th e foot-
board block s. F i n d board s th at m atch well i n
color an d grai n so th e joi n t between th e
block s an d th e rai l i sn t obvi ou s. Also m ak e
su re th e en d grai n of th e block m atch es th at
of th e rai l ( see G rai n O ri en tati on on th e Si d e
R ai ls on p . 49) .
2. Joi n t th e bottom ed ge of th e stock strai gh t
an d sm ooth .
3. C u t th e h ead board block s to 1 2
1
2 i n . lon g
an d th e footboard block s to 1 0
1
2 i n . lon g.
T h i s leaves
1
2 i n . extra:
1
4 i n . for waste an d
1
4 i n . for th e ten on .
4. L ay ou t th e ogee sh ap e on each block an d
ban d saw to sh ap e. Sm ooth th e rou gh ed ges
wi th sp ok esh aves, scrap ers, an d san d p ap er.
5. L i n e u p th e block s wi th th e en d s of th e
rai ls an d glu e th em i n p lace u si n g cau ls m ad e
from th e cu toffs ( see photo I on p . 50) .
6. C u t th e rai l en d s squ are an d to th ei r fi n -
i sh ed len gth of 76
1
2 i n . after th e glu e d ri es.
Cut t i ng t he st ub t enons
T h e si d e rai ls u se a sh ort ten on i n stead of two
d owels to ali gn an d rei n force th e rai l-to-leg
joi n t agai n st twi st an d sh ear forces.
48 S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D
Phot o H: Trimming
t he cheeks of t he
t enons t o f it t he
mort ises is easy wit h
a shoulder plane.
Not e t hat you cut
across t he grain.
Phot o G: Burnish t he leg wit h a handf ul of clean shavings af t er all t he
sanding is done.
1. R ou t th e stu b ten on sh ou ld er. E i th er u se
th e ji g sh own i n A Ten on i n g Ji g on p . 24,
or ju st rou t rabbets on both si d es of each en d
wi th th e base of th e rou ter ru n n i n g on th e
face of th e rai l.
2. C u t away som e of th e ten on to create th e
top sh ou ld er. D on t d o th i s on th e bottom
becau se th e ad d ed cleat wi ll create th e sh ou l-
d er on th at si d e. C h i sel th e rem ai n d er flu sh
wi th th e sh ou ld er su rface.
Dr i l l i ng f or t he bed bol t s
and maki ng recesses
f or t he nut s
1. L ocate th e bed bolt h oles 2
1
2 i n . u p from
th e bottom of th e rai l ( n ot i n clu d i n g th e
cleat) . T h i s p u ts th e n u t i n th e fu ll len gth p or-
ti on of th e rai l an d n ot i n th e ogee block s.
2. D ri ll i n from th e en d of th e rai l for th e bolt
h oles wi th a
3
8-i n . d ri ll bi t u si n g a d oweli n g
ji g for accu racy.
3. I f you n eed to exten d th e h ole d eep er th an
th e ji g wi ll allow, d ri ll th e rest by h an d i t
wi ll follow th e exi sti n g h ole well.
4. R ou t or d ri ll an d ch i sel a recess for th e n u t,
as d escri bed i n A Tem p late for R ou ti n g N u t
R ecesses on p . 32. T h e on ly d i fferen ce i s th e
locati on for th e recess. T h e flat si d e of th e
recess sh ou ld be 3
1
4 i n . from th e sh ou ld er of
th e rai l an d cen tered on th e bolt h ole.
Maki ng and addi ng t he
cl eat s t o t he r ai l s
T h e cleats th at su p p ort th e slats on th i s bed
are screwed to th e bottom s of th e rai ls i n stead
of to th e si d es. Try to u se board s th at m atch
th e color an d grai n of th e rai ls.
1. C u t cleats exactly to th e len gth of th e si d e
rai ls between th e ten on s.
2. P lan e or san d th e ou tsi d e ed ge of th e cleats
sm ooth .
3. D ri ll a seri es of p i lot h oles for 6 by
1
5
8-i n . screws to attach th e cleat to th e si d e
rai l. D ri ll from th e bottom ,
5
8 i n . from th e
ou tsi d e ed ge of th e cleat an d every 4 i n . I f you
start 1
1
2 i n . from each en d , you sh ou ld wi n d
u p wi th 1 9 screw h oles ( see C leat D etai ls on
p . 51 ) .
S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D 49
Tip: To pare the
very top edge of the
tenon shoulder
flush, tap down
with a
3
4-in. chisel,
flat side against the
shoulder. The
shoulders of the
tenon will keep the
chisel aligned.
4. D ri ll th e h oles on th e top face of th e cleat
fo r th e d o wel p i n s th at h o ld th e slats i n p lace.
T h ese are
5
1 6 -i n . h o les,
3
4 i n . d eep . L o cate
th e h o les
5
8 i n . fro m th e i n si d e ed ge of th e
cleat, sp aced every 5 i n . starti n g 2
1
2 i n . from
each en d .
5. Squ i rt a li ttle glu e i n to each h ole, th en
p ou n d i n a
5
1 6-i n . by 1
1
2-i n . d owel.
6. Scri be a li n e wi th a m ark i n g gau ge
1
1 6 i n .
from th e ou tsi d e ed ge of th e cleat. T h i s i s th e
referen ce li n e alon g wh i ch you glu e th e rai l.
7. Sp read a li gh t fi lm of glu e on th e bottom of
th e si d e rai l, k eep i n g glu e away from th e ou t-
si d e ed ge to m i n i m i ze th e squ eeze-ou t.
8. P lace th e rai l on th e cleat alon g th e scri bed
li n e an d flu sh wi th th e en d s of th e cleat.
C lam p i n p lace.
Ideally, the grain on the different parts of the side rail should
run in the same basic direction.
G R A I N O R I E N T A T I O N O N T H E S I D E R A I L S
B o ard s with g rain ru n n in g in sam e d ire ctio n
B o ard s with m ixe d g rain
1
16 overhang
50 S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D
Phot o J: Bot h of
t hese wooden bolt
hole covers look
good wit h t he bed.
Choose f or yourself .
Phot o I: It s easy t o
clamp t he shaped
blocks t o t he side
rails if you use cauls
made f rom cut off s
lef t over f rom mak-
ing t he blocks
(paint ed darker f or
bet t er visibilit y).
S H A K E R - S T Y L E B E D 51
9. D ri ve screws i n to th e h oles on e at a ti m e,
ch eck i n g to be su re th e rai l an d cleat stay
p rop erly ali gn ed .
Maki ng t he bol t hol e
cover s
You can p u rch ase bolt h ole covers for th i s
bed , or you can m ak e you r own ou t of wood .
T h e wood on es are si m p le to m ak e an d are
m ore trad i ti on al. You can ei th er m ak e 1
3
1 6-i n .
by 1
1 1
1 6-i n . rectan gles of
1
4-i n .-th i ck stock , or
cu t ou t ovals ( see photo J .
1. To m ak e ei th er squ are or rou n d bolt h ole
covers, cu t th em to si ze, san d th e ed ges
sm ooth , th en ch am fer th e ou tsi d e face wi th a
p lan e or san d p ap er.
2. D ri ll
9
64-i n .-d i am eter h oles i n th e top s
an d
1
1 6-i n . or
5
64-i n . p i lot h oles i n th e legs,
abou t
3
8 i n . above th e top of th e cou n terbored
bolt h ole.
3. Secu re th e covers wi th 6 by
3
4-i n . rou n d -
h ead brass screws.
Maki ng t he sl at s
All th at rem ai n s i s m ak i n g th e bed slats an d
fi n i sh i n g th e bed .
1. M ak e th e
3
4-i n .-th i ck , 4-i n .-wi d e bed slats
ou t of m ap le. To get th e exact len gth , you
sh ou ld assem ble th e bed fi rst an d m easu re th e
d i stan ce i n si d e th e rai ls.
2. N otch th e en d s on th e ban d saw wi th a
rou ter or u p ri gh t on th e table saw, as
d escri bed i n A Ji g for N otch i n g B ed Slats on
p . 34. D rop each slat i n to p lace over th e
d owel p i n s, th en li ft th e m attress i n to p lace.
The screws holding the cleat to the bottom of the rail should be spaced 4 apart.
The dowel pins should be spaced 5 apart.
C L E A T D E T A I L S
C le at
D o we l p in s
E N D VI E W
C le at
D o we l p in ,
5
1 6 x 1
1
2
1
1 6 o ve rh an g
S I D E VI E W
P ilo t h o le s fo r
scre ws
1
4
5 2
1
2 5
4 4 1
1
2
5
8
5
8
2
5
1 6
1