inyourpocket.com N14 - FREE COPY Amsterdam Walking Tour The best sights, cafs and shops in the city centre Zandvoort aan Zee Hollands seaside resort is only a train ride away Autumn 2014 3 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Contents E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S Foreword 4 A few words from the editor Arriving & Getting Around 5 How to get to and from your hotel Amsterdam Basics 8 Getting to grips with Amsterdam Centrum 10 Canals, cafs & the Plantage Nieuw-West 34 Lakes, parks and modern architecture Noord 36 Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design Oost 46 Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhoods West 48 Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek Zuid 50 De Pijp and some of the citys best museums Zuidoost 52 Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax Gay Amsterdam 54 A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam Cofeeshops 56 Where to smoke responsibly Lifestyle Directory 60 Spas, doctors and other useful information Amsterdam for kids 62 Interesting ways to spend the day with your ospring Zandvoort aan Zee 63 Discover Hollands most popular seaside resort List of small features Dutch pancakes 11 Uitsmijter: order the bouncer 15 Bitter... balls? 16 Red Light streets 18 London Calling 19 Bock Beer Festival 21 A farewell to pints 23 Documentary Film Fest 25 Movember 27 Ajax & Noord 39 Oldest gay bar 55 Football matches 60 Miraculous Amsterdam 61 Maps & Index Centrum: old centre map 31 Centrum: city centre map 32 Noord map 44 Netherlands map 66 Venue index 67 Weve put together some city centre sightseeing, eating, shopping and drinking highlights that can be seen and experienced in a short preiod of time. Rent a bike to save time or follow the tour on p.9 on foot. Hollands most popular seaside resort is only a short train ride away from Amsterdam. Walk along the beach, take advantage of its excel- lent dining and nightlife, experience the thrill of a live car race or visit the pristine nature that surrounds Zandvoort aan Zee on p.63. Photo courtesy of Zandvoort aan Zee 4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Foreword Theres so much to see in Amsterdam that one often feels obliged to forgo simple pleasures to visit as many muse- ums and attractions as is humanly possible. However, a rainy autumn day is the perfect excuse to enjoy a relatively guilt-free dash into one of Amsterdams centuries-old bars known as bruin cafs. After all, we love local architecture and the Dutch old masters as much as the next guy, but we also believe that Vermeer and Rembrandt probably ap- preciated a tasty brew now and again, so why deny your- self a delicious seasonal bock beer at an historic pub whose quaint wooden oors are either covered in sand or fall foli- age? We would also argue that sitting by a warm replace in a venue where generations of Amsterdammers imbibed alcoholic beverages and conversed on the topics of the day is just as authentic a local experience as queuing up for the Rijksmuseum (perhaps even more so). Just keep reading Amsterdam In Your Pocket to nd the perfect bruin caf, res- taurant, hotel, shop or museum for you. COVER STORY Just beyond the pretty green lights reected in the waters of the Damrak shown on this issues cover are lights of a dif- ferent colour that attract tour- ists from around the globe. Amsterdams famous Red Light district is only a short walk from the train station and, oddly, also includes one of the citys most impressive pieces of architecture, the Old Church or Oude Kerk, a national treasure. Publisher In Your Pocket Netherlands Weikesstraat 21, 5335 LE Alem, The Netherlands ISSN 2211-2480 Company Oce & Accounts Tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, amsterdam@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Amsterdam In Your Pocket is printed by Microdot in the EU Editorial Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis Research Theo Leerintveld Photography M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy of Amsterdam city governments and Amsterdam Marketing. Cover Martins Zaprauskis Sales & Circulation Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, theo.leerintveld@ inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub- lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Social media Find us on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S CZECH REPUBLIC SOUTH AFRICA DUTCH CARIBBEAN POLAND ROMANIA HUNGARY SERBIA BOSNIA ALBANIA GREECE FYR MACEDONIA BULGARIA MONTENEGRO ITALY CROATIA SLOVENIA AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND UKRAINE GEORGIA BELARUS LITHUANIA LATVIA ESTONIA RUSSIA GERMANY BELGIUM NETHERLANDS NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND ABOUT IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithu- ania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our rst in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over ve milli- on, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all thats new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpo- cket) or following us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). Autumn 2014 5 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Arriving & Getting Around Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city. BY PLANE Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than 10km southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers each year, but its easy to navigate and pleasantly ecient. Youll nd your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear customs youll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essen- tially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre and part food court. Although located under one roof, the building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4. Just walk straight to the main hall to nd most services that you might need including transportation to the city. An of- cial tourist information centre is available in terminal 2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and lockers are available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers cost 6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins. You can also leave your bags at the storage oce for the same price, but its only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small bank of lockers is also available on the ground oor be- tween terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any problems getting money. Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to the far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and youll nd a Travel Taxi oce. Buses and hotel shut- tles are available outside the terminal. Just walk straight through the arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside with the names of the citys biggest hotels that operate their own shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which is clearly marked at the stop. You can also take the blue Connexxion Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle that stops at a number of large hotels along a planned route. A very long list of hotels is posted at the stand. A single ticket costs 15.50 and children 4 - 14 travel for half price. If your hotel isnt listed its possible that it can be ar- ranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for Leidseplein in the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of other destinations in Amsterdam. If youre like most people you wont even leave the ter- minal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 15 minutes for only 3.70. Just walk into the main hall to nd a list of train departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you can purchase one from one of the many ticket machines with a credit card. Just choose English as your language on the touch-screen then choose the following steps: single, destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and the number of tickets. Choose your method of payment, insert your credit card, enter your PIN, conrm the price and then wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the Central Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train tickets at the Train Tickets & Services oce but youll pay an extra 0.50. BY TRAIN Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achieve- ment in its own right, it was later criticised by urban plan- ners for having cut o the city of canals from its most es- sential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many of the citys historic cafs were aorded an impressive vista of ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. To- day, the massive edice and its surroundings are a bit of a mess as the station is being renovated and retrotted to accommodate a controversial new metro line. Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands, kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex (www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00) currency exchange and an ATM are available near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and 4/5. For toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to plat- form 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger King, Ben & Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas (1st Class) and a bar, Caf Balkon. For tourist information exit the building on the city centre side and walk across the street to the ocial tourist information centre. Lockers for luggage storage are located on the far east side of the station, but it might take a while to nd an empty locker and even more time to gure out how to use one. You can only pay with a credit card. Place your belong- ings in a locker and close the door. Find the nearest keypad that corresponds with the numbered section of lockers you have chosen. Conrm that the locker number listed is the locker you have chosen and then swipe your credit card. Just stick it in the slot and pull it out. A ticket good for 24 hours will be ed. When you want to remove your lug- gage just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your locker will automatically open. Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here, but if youre staying in another section of town such as the Museum District you can take one of the many trams out- side. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.60. He will activate the card for you, but you have to place it up against one of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might be worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station and walk across the street to the GVB public transporta- tion oce (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00) to the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side of the station on the River IJ. 6 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Arriving & Getting Around Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public transportation is excellent and we dont recommend driv- ing within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the pre- ferred Dutch method of travel and some would say its the only way to truly experience the city. BICYCLE RENTAL There are many ways to see Amsterdam and its surround- ings but our favourite option is to hire a set of wheels. There are around 16 million bikes -thats twice the number of cars. Amsterdam also has plenty of places to park your bike for free, but be sure to remember where you left it. Please note that around 40,000 bikes are stolen annually. All told, Am- sterdam commuters cycle more than 2,000,000km every day! AMSTERBIKE Bike and scooter rental.QH-4, Piet Heinkade 11a, tel. (+31) 204 19 90 63, www.amsterbike.eu. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun. Prices: 8.50/3 hours, 12.50/day. BLACK BIKES A full day bike rental will set you back only 10 and it has the longest opening hours in the city.QF-9, Lijnbaansgracht 282, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31, info@hetzwartefetsenplan. nl, www.black-bikes.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Also on Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 88; Maasstraat 106 - 108; Tweede Helmersstraat 49; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 146. TJA MIKES BIKE RENTAL SHOP Mikes Bikes is famous all over Europe for its sightseeing tours, but we recommend its beach cruisers with special tires that hardly ever go at. Each bike also comes with two locks, which isnt a bad idea in Amsterdam where bike theft is as common as dope smoke.QG-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel. (+31) 206 22 79 70, www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam. com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. (5 - 15). JA RECYCLED RENTALS This company claims to have the cheapest bike rental in town and at only 5/day, it might be right.QA-2, Spuistraat 84a, tel. (+31) 654 68 14 29, rentals@ recycledrentals.com, www.recycledrentals.com. BOAT RENTAL SLOEP DELEN This company rents 15 electric boats from two locations at Nassaukade 69 and at Borneosteiger 1. You can reserve a date and time online. All boats are powered by electricity and theyre easy to navigate even without any prior ex- perience.QC-6, Nassaukade 69, tel. (+31) 204 19 10 07, www.sloepdelen.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 50/hour. BUSES City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or as a nal option once the trams have stopped running. Night buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes con- necting Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein. CAR RENTAL AVIS Cars are divided in small, medium and large categories and are available from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aank- omstpassage 5), tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl. Open 06:30 - 23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A EUROPCAR Cars from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpas- sage 10), tel. (+31) 203 16 41 90, www.europcar.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. Also at E-9, Overtoom 197. A Theres nothing like autumn in Amsterdam IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones via our responsive mobile platform, found at m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable resource which puts our unrivalled content together with the technical capabilities of todays smartphones. In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest to your current location. Smart lters can be used to ensure that only those places which matter to you are displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks. Point your phones web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now. Autumn 2014 7 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Arriving & Getting Around FERRIES Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord on the other side of the River IJ. In total there are six ferry lines which transport pedestrians, bicycles and sometimes mopeds. All of the lines are free. AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL Amsterdam in particular and the Netherlands in general have a long seafaring tradition. Passenger Terminal Am- sterdam hosts more than 250,000 people every year. The striking architectural monument is within walking distance of the Central Station and only 25km from the North Sea. The cosy hallway oers a giant chess game, some food venues, a functional kids corner and a lug- gage room with instructions in six languages.QO-1, Piet Heinkade 27, tel. (+31) 205 09 10 00, fax (+31 ) 205 09 10 09, info@ptamsterdam.com, www.ptamsterdam.com. TJAL METRO The metro is fast and ecient. Its a combination of under- ground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram). Only some 3.5km of track between the Central Station and the Amstel are actually located underground. The four metro lines all depart from Central Station and head out to their nal destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and Iso- latorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the future, hence all of the construction around town. PETROL STATIONS TEXACO QD-7, Marnixstraat 250. Open 24hrs. Also at Sarphatis- traat 225. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A PUBLIC TRANSPORT GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdams public transportation company and it provides integrated metro, tram and bus service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since 2010 a comprehensive OV-chipcard ticket system allows you to travel on the metro, trams, buses and even trains us- ing just one card. There are a variety of OV-chipcard options and you can upload them with travel credits at special ma- chines located at stations and even in most supermarkets. You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24, 48, 72, 96, 120, 144 and 168 hours, which aord you unlimited travel on all trams, buses, metros and night buses and an economical way to explore the city. A one-hour OV card can be pur- chased onboard from GVB drivers and conductors, but a premium is charged for this ticket. It costs 2.70 for one hour of unlimited travel on dierent buses and trains in the city that begins once you board your selected mode of transportation and check in by placing it next to the scan- ners near the doors. You must also scan your card when leaving the vehicle. TAXIS Taxis can be hailed on the street or found at one of more than 50 ocial taxi ranks. The ranks, identiable by blue boards, can be found near tourist attractions such as the Dam, Leidesplein and Rembrandtplein. ELECTRIC TAXI COMPANY TAXI-E This cab company uses environmentally-friendly electric cars. Free wi- is included in the price, credit cards are ac- cepted and it oers cheap rates to the airport.Qtel. (+31) 881 00 44 44, www.taxi-e.nl. AW TCA TAXI This 24-hour taxi company has stands at the Central Sta- tion, Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederik- splein and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them and order a cab any time of the day or night. Qtel. (+31) 207 77 77 77, www.tcataxi.nl. Open 24hrs. TRAINS Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option for getting around and there are three types of trains available. The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which is ideal when travelling to Germany, Great Britain or Bel- gium, while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity oers fast connections between Dutch cities. There are NS ticket ma- chines at every station. You can pay cash or use a Maestro PIN at the NS Tickets & Service desk at major stations and the machines at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam Central also accept credit cards. You can easily nd all train depar- tures as well as ticket price information at www.ns.nl. TRAMS Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They provide the best way of getting around the city and run from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldnt have to wait longer than 10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram drivers. They cost 2.70, but if you plan on travelling a lot youre better o purchasing a 24-hour ticket for 7. You have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when entering and exiting the vehicle. Bikes, boats and canals in the Grachtengordel 8 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Amsterdam Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS On public holidays shops and museums often close earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools, city councils, post oces and banks are closed and some shops and restaurants may also take the day o. January 1 New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag) April 3, 2015 Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag) April 5, 2015 Easter Sunday (Pasen) April 6, 2015 Easter Monday (Pasen) April 27, 2015 Kings Day (Koningsdag) May 1 Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid) May 4 Remembrance of the Dead (Nationale Herdenking) May 5 Liberation Day (Dag van de Vrijheid) May 9 Mothers Day (Moederdag) May 13 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag) May 23 - 24 Whitsun (Pinksteren) June 20 Fathers Day (Vaderdag) June 26 Veterans Day (Veteranendag) September 21 Budget Day (Prinsjesdag) December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas) December 25 - 26 Christmas (Kerstmis) December 31 New Years Eve (Oudejaarsdag) Read on and nd out why the Dutch allow people to smoke joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available here. ALCOHOL Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken, Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on oer at most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that spe- cialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as jenever. You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll be carded, so always bring identication. This holds true for supermarkets and o-licences, too. If youre a little too tipsy youll probably be asked (rmly, yet kindly) to leave the premises and if you dont cooperate you could end up spending a night sobering up in a drunk tank. CYCLING Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basi- cally as at as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive country for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection of cycling paths and youll see why the Dutch love their bikes so much. Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like Amsterdam can still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars, trucks, trams, buses, scooters and even pedestrians can all serve as terrifying obstacles that seem to pop up into your eld of vision from nowhere, but other cyclists can also be just as dangerous. Although parents are condent enough in bicycle safety to attach carts to their bikes to transport their children around town, loads of other cyclists ignore trac rules and basically ride wherever they like often caus- ing mayhem on the streets. MAIL & PHONES All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all tel- ephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) pre- x, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. MONEY Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopt- ed the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of 1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collec- tion of 200 and 500 bills in your wallet might make you feel like Bill Gates, bear in mind that theyre almost never accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty in the centre of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind that ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often leading to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. At the train station you can nd a GWK Travelex shop (Station- splein, open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00). Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and Mas- terCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry some money with you as some bars only accept cash and others require a minimum purchase of 15 - 20 to use a card. Navigate a maze of bikes next to Central Station Lya Cattel Autumn 2014 9 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Amsterdam Basics PROSTITUTION It may surprise you to know that the profession that has helped to make Amsterdam a household word across the globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the Dutch did what they always do when confronted with a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind eye to the practice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red Light district only rousted sex workers if they became too aggressive with passers-by showing off body parts or tapping on the glass. Today, window shopping on the Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction, but please bear in mind that these ladies are there to make a living and are not part of some open-air zoo. Be respectful and, whatever you do, dont take any pho- tographs up close. Use a zoom lens from a distance if you want some photographic evidence of your visit to Europes erotic pleasure capital. For more information see Nightlife. ROADS Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars (its compulsory in the Netherlands to have your car checked for faults at least once every two years) trac quite fre- quently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. The ma- jority of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, and considering the severity of trac nes, this seems wise enough. Driving through a red light? This will cost you 160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be prepared to pay 180! And as soon as you exceed the maximum speed by 50km/h youll lose your driving licence and be ned. Within city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the road signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on the right side of the road, and youre not allowed to cycle on motorways! You dont want to know how many tourists are plucked o the road by police each year. SMOKING Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Nether- lands, but since the introduction of the smoking ban on July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This is partially because the government started a huge cam- paign to make people aware of the eects of smoking on their health. These days you can have a wild night out and come home without your hair and clothes reeking of ciga- rette smoke. For some this is an enormous benet and oth- ers (read: smokers) nd it a pain and banish themselves to the many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear rules you may suddenly nd yourself in a smoke-lled pub. This is usually in bars with just a single sta member: the boss. Or you may nd yourself in a pub that outs the ban on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you. If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates this, then the manager will receive a ne upon inspection. The Netherlands is of course also known for its wafts of marijuana (see Coeeshops). CITY CENTRE TOUR Most people arrive at Amsterdams Central Station so thats as good a place to start as any other. Walk down the touristy Damrak, which is lined with bars, souvenir shops and fast food joints. If youd like to start your day in true Dutch fashion then grab a deep-fried frikandel and frites at Manneken Pis or just keep walking down the street. Just ahead is Dam Square home to street performers as well as the National Monument, a 22m- high pillar that looks like a white phallus. On the op- posite end of the square youll nd Royal Palace Am- sterdam whose interior is so opulent youll think youve been transported to Versailles. Next walk down the Kalverstraat, which is a pedes- trian shopping street where you can nd major fashion brands as well as cafs and fast food shops. Head down the street until you see the Spui Square on your right. Its full of cafs as well as one of Amsterdams premiere English-language bookshops, The American Book Center. For aordable Dutch food you cant beat t Lieverdje just around the corner on the Singel. We al- ways order the uitsmijter or the pea soup. If youre look- ing for the ultimate Amsterdam bruin caf experience then have a drink and a soup and sandwich at Caf Hoppe on the Spui, which has been around since 1670. Continue your walk down the Singel until you reach the famous Flower Market where you can buy seeds, bulbs and lots of souvenirs. Pass the Mint Tower (Munttoren) and walk down Reguliersbreestraat, a popular gay- friendly street anked by loads of restaurants, until you reach Rembrandtplein. Walk across the bridge over the Amstel to Waterlooplein where youll nd many of Amsterdams Jewish sights, including the Portuguese Synagogue. The Rembrandthuis Museum is just around the corner to the left on Jodenbreestraat. If you walk across another bridge youll reach Sint Antonies- breestraat, which leads to the Nieuwmarkt, home to fashionable cafs and bars as well as Den Waag, Am- sterdams most impressive medieval gate. From here you can explore Amsterdams Chinatown on the Zeedijk. Wing Kee and the stylish New King are both good choices for dinner. If you go left from the Zeedijk youll run across Oudezijds Achterburgwal and Oudezijds Voorburgwal, the main canal streets of the Red Light district. The bars, coeeshops and prostitutes behind their windows are the main attractions here, but if its still not too late you can also visit the Oude Kerk, the citys oldest church. The Hash, Marijuana & Hemp Museum, however, is open every day until 23:00. If you walk down the Zeedijk toward the train station youll also come across what could be the worlds oldest gay and lesbian bar, Caf t Mandje. Taste a traditional Dutch liqueur or spirit like jenever at De Ooievaar or In de Olofspoort (closed Tuesdays) near the end of the Zeedijk are both good choices. For excellent microbrews visit Proefokaal de Prael on Oudezijds Armsteeg. 10 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery E Live music B Outside seating X Smoking section S Takeaway W Wi Amsterdam Centrum is the district that most of the city's visitors want to see and it's also the place where most people end up arriving. The Central Station is the city's most renowned and popular transport hub and all of the city centre lies before it. Centrum, as it's called, is actually quite large, so you may want to use public transportation to get around, but with a comfortable pair of trainers all of its sights and sounds can be covered on foot. The infa- mous Red Light district with its bars and window shopping is only a short walk across the square from the station as are the Zeedijk with its restaurants and Chinatown. The world famous belt of canals, or simply the Grachtengordel, is also just a hop, skip and a jump from here not to mention the Dam and Leidse Square (Leidseplein). The popular Jordaan neighbourhood in the west is full of bohemian cafs, bars and shops, while the Plantage area in the east is home to some of the city's best attractions including the Artis Zoo and the Hortus Botanical Gardens. ARRIVING IN CENTRUM If you're already in Centrum there's a good chance that you arrived at the Central Station. From here you can take trams No.1, 2 or 5 to the canals and Leidseplein. Trams No.13 and 17 will take you to the Jordaan, while tram No.9 will take you to Rembrandtplein in the east and farther aeld to the Plantage area. ACCOMMODATION Centrum has it all from hostels to award-winning design hotels, but rates can be obscenely high so book in advance. CREAM OF THE CROP INTERCONTINENTAL AMSTEL AMSTERDAM Already a hotel in 1867, the building gracefully combines antique interior design elements with modern conve- niences, so you can enjoy regal surroundings without feeling like your trapped in a museum where youre not allowed to touch anything or to raise your voice. A health club with a swimming pool is also at your disposal as well as a restaurant, brasserie and bar.QI-8, Professor Tulpplein 1, tel. (+31) 206 22 60 60, amsterdam.intercontinental. com. 79 rooms. PTJHA6UFLGK DCWhhhhh RENAISSANCE AMSTERDAM HOTEL This luxurious ve-star hotel, which is part of the Marriott group, oers over 400 modern, tastefully decorated rooms in the city centre only a ve-minute walk from the Central Station. Spread out over several buildings, the hotel was completely renovated in 2009 and its accommodation in- cludes all of the amenities one would expect from a ve- star hotel including king size beds, wireless internet ac- cess, climate control, large at screen TVs and a few extras like bathrobes, slippers and fresh fruit. .QA-1, Kattengat 1, tel. (+31) 206 21 22 23, www.marriott.com. 402 rooms. PJHAUFLGKDW hhhhh UPMARKET NH CARLTON AMSTERDAM Youd have a tough time nding a more central hotel than the NH Carlton, which is conveniently located near the Flower Market and Amsterdams busiest shopping street, the Kalverstraat. All rooms are equipped with satellite TV, mini-bars, coee/tea sets, phone, writing desk, free wireless internet access, private bathrooms and tasteful interiors. Deluxe rooms are more spacious and boast a more modern-looking dcor. You can also dine on Mediterranean cuisine at the in-house IlGirasole restaurant.QB-3, Vijzelstraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 22 22 66, www.nh-hotels.com. 218 rooms (standard from 161). PJHAULGBKXW hhhh BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS HOTEL NOTTING HILL AMSTERDAM Located on the edge of the city centre only a short walk from Amsterdam Souths bustling De Pijp district, this styl- ish boutique hotel oers 67 comfortable rooms equipped with LED TVs, climate control, wireless internet access, Ne- spresso machines, tea sets, bathrobes and slippers, safes and private bathrooms as well as designer interiors in neu- tral beige and black colours. Its Brasserie Londen is also a good place for a casual meal, but locals often visit for its spectacular Notting Hill high tea. A terrace on the neigh- bouring canal is also available.QWesteinde 26, tel. (+31) 205 23 10 30, www.hotelnottinghill.nl. 67 rooms (dou- bles from 149). PAULGBKW hhhh Explore the city centre on foot or on a bike Autumn 2014 11 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum MID-RANGE AMSTERDAM HOUSE HOTEL EUREKA If a lack of space isnt a problem for you, then Hotel Eu- reka is denitely a decent option for you and your pet - they are most welcome and free of charge. Despite the small bedrooms and bathrooms, the hotel does have its positive aspects. This three-star hotel is situated in the centre of Amsterdam overlooking the beautiful Amstel River and is surrounded by great tourist attractions such as Rembrandtplein and the famous Flower Market. A varied breakfast menu is also available allowing guests to pre- pare their own omelettes.QG-7, s-Gravelandseveer 3 - 4, tel. (+31) 206 24 66 07, www.amsterdamhouse.com. 16 rooms (14 doubles 80 - 150, 2 triples 80 - 160). iA6UGBKXW hhh HOTEL AMSTELZICHT This historic canal house built in 1659 has served as a ho- tel for quite some time but was completely renovated in 2012 to reect the style and tastes of the modern, design- conscious traveller. Although the reception area and stair- cases have largely retained their antique ambience, the guest rooms have been thoroughly transformed into styl- ish rooms with brown wall-to-wall carpeting, beige fur- nishings and the odd magenta pillow or chair for a splash of colour. .QAmstel 104, tel. (+31) 206 23 66 93, www. hotelamstelzicht.com. 21 rooms (doubles/twin from 99, triples from 129, suites from 149, apartments from 189). PAGW hhh BUDGET AMSTERDAM WIECHMANN HOTEL If youre looking for a truly Dutch experience in Amster- dam this hotel is a good start. The Wiechmann Hotel has been run by the same family for several generations and is located on the beautiful Prinsengracht. Although the old building is decorated accordingly, it doesnt have a lift and the steep stairs might not be suitable for the elderly or small children. Rooms are pleasantly decorated in the same style and the house dog contributes to the family- style ambience.QE-7, Prinsengracht 328 - 332, tel. (+31) 206 26 33 21, www.hotelwiechmann.nl. 37 rooms (dou- bles from 100). JA6GW hh BED & BREAKFAST LA VIE EN ROSE B&B AND APARTMENTS Conveniently located in an historic Amsterdam building between the Central Station and Dam Square, La Vie en Rose oers two beautifully decorated and aordably priced apartments that include loads of modern amenities like at screen TV, stylish furniture and dcor, kitchenette and free wireless internet access. Thankfully, many of the original design features of the interiors have also been preserved so you can enjoy the best of both worlds. Amsterdam has some strange rules regarding its buildings, so a maximum of only two people are allowed to stay in each apartment. QA-1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 90B, tel. (+31) 651 59 57 87, www.amsterdamapartmentlavieenrose.com. 2 rooms (2 apartments from 115). J6LNGW HOSTELS TOURIST INN Were almost reluctant to tell you about this little gem, be- cause its usually the place where we stay when we want to save some cash in Amsterdam. Part hotel, part hostel, the aptly named Tourist Inn oers clean recently renovated singles, doubles and triples with at screen TVs, wireless in- ternet access, air conditioning and private bathrooms with shower and hair dryer or slightly cheaper rooms with shared toilets and showers. Six-bed dorms with clean bunk beds, TVs, lockers and wi- are also a bargain and the shared toi- let and shower facilities are clean and modern. Breakfast is included in the price and four computers with internet ac- cess are available in the reception area for a small fee. Did we mention that its a short walk from the Central Station?QA-1, Spuistraat 52, tel. (+31) 204 21 58 41, www.tourist-inn.nl. 22 rooms (singles, doubles and triples from 60, dorm beds 20 - 35/person). PAW Crisp autumn day in Amsterdams Grachtengordel DUTCH PANCAKES Although everyone knows that the Dutch cant get enough stinky cheese, not everyone knows that theyre also nuts about pannenkoeken (pancakes). Now, be- fore you get too excited, we must warn you that you shouldnt expect a giant stack of apjacks smothered in butter and maple syrup if you order pancakes at a local restaurant. In fact, pancakes here often resemble a huge omelette lled with all manner of toppings from savoury ingredients like bacon, cheese and mushrooms to more conventional delights like fruit and berries. You should also bear in mind that the dark syrup on oer at traditional Dutch pancake joints isnt even remotely related to the maple tree. Its actually a strong, bitter kind of treacle (molasses) thats denitely an acquired taste, especially if youre expecting sweet, golden ma- ple syrup. The Dutch also love their poertjes, which are tiny silver dollar-sized spongy pancakes that are often dusted with powdered sugar. 12 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum RESTAURANTS Amsterdam Centrum has plenty of tourist traps, but the following is a tiny selection of some of our favourite res- taurants. For hundreds more restaurant reviews visit www. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com. ASIAN WAGAMAMA Although a little on the expensive side, Wagamama, which is part of an international chain of Asian fusion/ra- men bars, oers expertly presented meals that will satisfy even the largest of appetites. A noodle soup can cost as much as 16, but thats all part of the experience of dining at a trendy ramen bar. You also pay for the quick and at- tentive service and a great location near Leidseplein. The only disadvantage is that youre often seated quite close to strangers around you, but that can also be a positive thing depending on your point of view.QF-8, Max Euweplein 10, tel. (+31) 205 28 77 78, www.wagamama.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (12 - 16) and Zuid- plein 12. PTJAUVGBKS BAGELS BAGELS & BEANS Were not exactly sure where the beans t into the equa- tion, but if you like plain, whole wheat, tomato, everything, cinnamon and even gluten-free (whatever that means) bagels with a wide variety of toppings from hummus, tuna salad or Parma ham to traditional cream cheese, then head over to this popular chain of bagel bistros. You can also drink freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, although, try as we might, we cant seem to nd the ap- peal of cucumber juice. You can also take advantage of free wi-.QA-2, Raadhuisstraat 18, tel. (+31) 206 38 07 88, www.bagelsbeans.nl. Open 09:01 - 17:32, Sat, Sun 09:58 - 18:02. Also at Keizersgracht 504, tel.(+31) 203 30 55 08; Haarlemmerdijk 122, tel. (+31) 203 30 41 02. Open 08:59 - 17:31, Sun 10:02 - 17:01; Ferdinand Bolstraat 70, tel. (+31) 206 72 16 10. Open 08:31 - 17:32, Sun 08:58 - 18:01; and many other locations. (5). ASW BARBECUE CAF DE KLOS Although this place looks like an authentic Dutch brown bar with solid wood furniture, wood panelling and imi- tation Dutch master paintings collecting dust on their chunky frames, the sta assured us that its actually a restaurant specialising in barbecued meat of all kinds. Or- der huge servings of spare ribs, smoked chicken, sirloins, t-bones, lamb chops and prime rib guaranteed to make a vegetarian salivate. A decent selection of beer is also on draught including microbrews from De Bekeerde Suster, which is owned by the same people.QF-7, Kerkstraat 41 - 43, tel. (+31) 206 25 37 30, www.beiaardgroep.eu. Open 16:00 - 24:00. (12 - 22). CAFETERIAS DE BIJENKORF KITCHEN Pass some of the worlds biggest brands like Vuitton and Gucci on your way to the top oor of this posh department store to reach De Bijenkorf Kitchen an upmarket cafeteria that oers a stylish, modern interior and views of Amster- dam. The Asian stand cooks stir fries to order, the seafood stand boasts oysters and sushi, you can order pizzas and pasta at the Italian counter and steaks at the grill. A much- coveted outdoor terrace with limited seating is connected to the bar area.QA-2, Dam 1, tel. 900 09 19 (toll call), www.debijenkorf.nl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. (5 - 12). AB CHINESE NEW KING We were a little apprehensive when we encountered New King, because unlike so many other restaurants in China- town, this one actually looks stylish with light coloured wood panelling, red banners of Asian comic book charac- ters eating food and dark brown wallpaper that looks like snakeskin. Thankfully, this wasnt a case of interior design prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and Indonesian cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingly reason- able, too! Order whole sh, steaming bowls of seafood, crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic dishes like frog legs. Cocktails and a decent wine list are also available.QB-1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25 21 80, www.newking.nl. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (12 - 18). A ORIENTAL CITY This upmarket Chinese restaurant occupies three oors of a, unmistakable corner Red Light district building and of- fers expensive, yet delicious cuisine, an extensive wine list and sta in either silk shirts or black bowties depending on their gender. Aquariums with exotic sh serve as dcor as well as jade model ships and of course the ubiquitous red lanterns seen at most Asian eateries. Order anything from whole sh dishes with the heads and tails attached and sauted scallops to classic crispy suck dishes. Many of the clientele wear suits and formal wear, but you dont have to. QB-2, O.Z. Voorburgwal 177 - 179, tel. (+31) 206 26 83 52, www.oriental-city.nl. Open 11:30 - 22:30. (15 - 28). Hollands legendary fast food vending machines Autumn 2014 13 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum COFFEE & TEA QUARTIER PUTAIN In the heart of the Red Light district among drunk stag par- ties and leering tourists, youll nd a coee venue with a tempting French name. If you love the brown stu or need it to jump start your day then youve come to right place as Quartier Putai sells coee from around the globe. The caf itself is divided into two oors. The upstairs is a breeding ground for future musical talents, while the ground oor is lled with comfortable seats and cosy niches. In keeping with its musical atmosphere each patron is given a coin for the jukebox after theyve ordered a coee.QB-1, Oude- kerksplein 4, www.quartierputain.nl. PTJAW DINERS TEDDYS CORNER This no frills diner and bar serves up anything from salads and burgers to steaks and lamb chops, but we get the feel- ing that most people pop in for a big breakfast with coee or tea regardless of the time of day. Although it also oers beer and cocktails, its more of a place to recharge your bat- teries and to line your stomach before returning to other Red Light bars and coeeshops on this infamous street.QB- 1, Warmoesstraat 45, tel. (+31) 204 23 21 67. (7 - 15). A DUTCH OUD HOLLAND Housed in a 17th-century building, whose once impressive faade is now marred by a glass addition, Oud Holland is a traditional restaurant that probably looked the same when Arthur Frommer wrote his rst guides to Europe back in the 1950s. The interior certainly looks the part with dark wood furnishings and kitschy red and white plaid lampshades ev- erywhere. You can experience the whole range of Dutch cui- sine here but one cant help shake the feeling that the often photocopied menu oered in several languages was creat- ed with tourists in mind.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 105, tel. (+31) 204 22 90 18, www.restaurantoudholland. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 20). A T LIEVERDJE This unpretentious caf and bar named after a famous statue of a small boy located around the corner serves up classic homemade Dutch dishes like stamppot, haring and apple pie as well as Indonesian-style fried rice for aord- able prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers and the locally made De Prael brew are also at your disposal but bear in mind that the resident cat might choose to sit in your lap if youre male. Apparently, it doesnt like women or so the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior with large brass candelabras and even an antique chandelier guar- antee a cosy stay here, but remember that during peek eating times youll have to sit at the bar if you only want a drink. Tables are reserved for hungry patrons. QA-3, Sin- gel 415, tel. (+31) 625 58 11 56, www.tlieverdje.nl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (6 - 12). B FAST FOOD GRILL STEAKHOUSE MAMA The exalted name is a little optimistic and the faux brick walls arent fooling anyone, but the shoarma is pretty good, even at a steep 5 for a small pita. That said, the sauce is truly spicy and the sta are constantly in motion cutting meat and serv- ing inebriated pub crawlers in the middle of the night.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 56, tel. (+31) 206 20 48 28. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. (5 - 7). S MANNEKEN PIS Named after the Belgian capitals favourite little urinat- ing rascal, this fast food frites shack on the Damrak has become an Amsterdam institution. Order your deep-fried potatoes in three sizes for 2.50, 3.50 and 4.50 and one of 16 sauces is included in the price from traditional may- onnaise or ketchup to an Indonesian peanut satay condi- ment. Other Dutch snacks like frikandel and kroket can also be had.QA-1, Damrak 41, www.mannekenpis.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (3 - 5). S ICE CREAM BEN & JERRYS Two and half euros for what looks like a tiny shot glass of ice cream seems like a big expense, and it is, but the huge vari- ety of mouth-watering avours with clever names are nearly impossible to resist. Sundaes, splits, waes and cones are all available in this famous American chain of fair trade ice cream parlours decorated in bright pastel colours and purple seats.QF-7, Leidsestraat 90, tel. (+31) 206 24 02 36, www. benjerry.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Also at Stationsplein 11, tel. (+31) 204 21 00 68. AS METROPOLITAN DELI Although most venues on Warmoesstraat lure you inside with large beer selections, erotic gadgets or a whi of pot smoke, Metropolitan Deli tempts passers-by with a ow- ing chocolate fountain and a huge display of freshly made gelato in dozens of avours from pistachio and hazelnut to cheesecake and even stroopwafel (caramel cookie). You can also buy gourmet chocolates and chocolate avoured beer! Recommended.QWarmoesstraat 135, tel. (+31) 203 30 19 55, www.metropolitandeli.nl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. AS A meal in Amsterdams Chinatown is an absolute must 14 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum INDIAN GANDHI Gandhi is a top-notch Indian restaurant with attentive sta who serve tasty traditional Indian curry dishes in a room with no windows and hardly any decorations. However, the real surprise is its tacky location only a ve-minute walk from Central Station. You could easily walk past this hidden treasure, so look for a sauna next to the entrance. Try the combination menus, which are good value for money.QA-1, Damrak 54, tel. (+31) 206 38 32 22, www. indianrestaurantgandhi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (13 - 17). PTJAGK INDONESIAN PELANGI This candlelit Indonesian restaurant oers great views of Rembrandtplein and an extensive list of traditional dishes as well as a variety of so-called rice tables starting at around 30 for two people. If youre a novice you can always choose the daily special, which usually includes a curry, a satay, veggies in sauce and, of course, rice. The interior isnt ex- actly noteworthy and we were charged a whopping 3 for a small cola, which seemed a bit steep. Had the sta not been so helpful and polite we might have caused a ruckus. At that price we could have ordered a beer!QB-3, Rembrandt- plein 16, tel. (+31) 204 20 06 70. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (12 - 18). AB INTERNATIONAL BLINQ Trendy BlinQ is a restaurants that also double as a club and cocktail bar in the evening. Despite its stylish aspira- tions its actually a nice spot to have an aordable lunch or an intimate dinner in the evening. The terrace is also a big plus but the cranky sta seem to have more impor- tant things to do than to attend to their patrons so you might have to wait a while to get a drink. At the weekend youll have to queue up outside and pass BlinQs face control.QF-7, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 5, tel. (+31) 203 30 40 00, www.blinq-amsterdam.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (19 - 24). JABX CAF PROUST Popular with local 20- and 30-somethings, this stylish caf is decorated with blackboard art (youll see what we mean when you get there) and two long mirrors on op- posite walls that create an odd optical illusion, but its most striking feature is the huge lamp hanging above the bar that looks like a revolver. You can order a good cocktail or a tasty brew, but the menu is also worth a look and of- fers such interesting dishes as lamb burgers with harissa sauce. Caf Proust also has a small terrace but you might want to reserve a spot ahead of time or get here early. QE-4, Noordermarkt 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 45, www. goodfoodgroup.nl/proust.html. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (10 - 18). B ITALIAN PASTA E BASTA Pasta e Basta is a Dutch institution. Owner Hans Duijf takes pride in his singers who entertain diners with high-class performances of opera classics and contemporary songs that really get the audience involved. The food can be described as Italian pasta dishes with a big selection of anti pasta under the lid of the baby grand piano! A com- prehensive wine list is also available. Many music stars and personalities have played here for free on their visits to Amsterdam including Bill Clinton, the late Luciano Par- varotti, who described this restaurant as his European fa- vourite, and George Benson, who provided a free concert for loads of gobsmacked diners.QG-8, Nieuwe Spiegel- straat 8, tel. (+31) 204 22 22 22, www.pastaebasta.nl. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Menu: 37. JAK LUNCHROOM DE BAKKERSWINKEL This long, narrow industrial-looking space with pipes and wires hanging from the ceiling provides a bright, rened atmosphere illuminated by a number of skylights. You can expect classical music, a fresh ower on each table and gourmet sweets, breakfasts, lunch and a whole menu dedicated to high tea. Meals are prepared behind a long counter to the right side thats covered in delicious pies and cakes. The Bakers Shop is by no means cheap, but style and taste dont come for free. Two small tables are also available out on the street when the weather coop- erates.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 69, tel. (+31) 204 89 80 00, www.debakkerswinkel.nl. Open 08:00 - 17:30, Mon 10:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. AB DE BUREN Although ocially a lunch place, De Buren is also a good stop for a quick and lling breakfast. With a fresh cup of Ethiopian coee and a dirt cheap uitsmijter, daily stress and the unpredictable Dutch weather seem easier to handle. Dont expect anything fancy here, just delicious sand- wiches and rolls. Service with a genuine smile is another attractive draw.QI-8, Sarphatistraat 45, tel. (+31) 203 20 85 52, www.lunchroomdeburen.nl. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TJNKS Time for breakfast (or an afternoon brunch) Autumn 2014 15 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum PANCAKES THE PANCAKE BAKERY Although this cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tour- ist trap, especially given its close location to the throngs of visitors at the Anne Frank House, it serves scores of au- thentic Dutch pancakes and omelettes and thats pretty much it. In other words, a very simple, yet popular con- cept. Each of its marble-topped tables has a big ceramic bucket of local syrup with a wooden spoon as well as a container of powdered sugar, the walls are covered in Am- sterdam memorabilia and the low timber ceilings are sim- ply charming, but the aroma of pancakes on the griddle can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order them with bacon, onions and cheese, with ice cream and cinna- mon or dozens of other toppings either sweet or savoury. QE-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel. (+31) 206 25 13 33, www. pancake.nl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (8 - 15). QUICK EATS AMARYLLES Located on the same canal as the Flower Market, this small caf oers a little bit of everything from full English break- fasts around the 10 mark and burgers with fries to classic Dutch peasant food like uitsmijter, pea soup with sausages and plenty of pancakes for surprisingly reasonable prices. Half a dozen small tables line the sidewalk out front where you can sip a German Warsteiner brew or a morning cup of Joe.QB-3, Singel 540, tel. (+31) 206 22 49 47. Open 09:00 - 18:00. (6 - 12). AB ROOFTOP CAF Although you shouldnt expect haute cuisine, this caf is located on the rooftop terrace of one of Amsterdams most unusual buildings - Science Center NEMO. You can order sausage rolls, hot dogs, sandwiches with tuna, ham, eggs or cheese or sample one of four day-glow coloured slush puppy drinks, while admiring an amazing view of the city centre. Beer and wine is also available as well as ice cream, but bear in mind that youll have to climb up some stairs to get there, unless you want to buy a ticket to the museum.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, www.e-nemo.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon. (2 - 4). AB STEAKHOUSES SAINT MORRIS Although the food is ne and the service is polite, when youre this close to the Red Light districts main canal you somehow always get the feeling that youre about to be eeced. You can order the steak and spare ribs specials that probably lured you inside, but the sta are keen to point out better, more expensive, options once you sit down. The foyer area is meant to look like a chapel, which is no doubt some kind of homage to the restaurants namesake St. Morris, but the rest of the half cellar is in standard steakhouse style with lots of chunky wooden furniture.QB-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 163, tel. (+31) 204 22 73 13, www.saintmorris.nl. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (12 - 20). A THAI BIRD This Thai restaurant was one of the rst ethnic eateries to open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it claims to prepare authentic meals that are even better than the stu youd get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure, but it might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve some of the best fresh green and red curries you can get in Amsterdam with as much white rice as you can eat. The interior is rather less authentic, but even Christmas lights mixed with plastic Buddhas cant spoil a truly satisfying meal at Bird.QB-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14 42, www.thai-bird.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 17). PTJAGKS Taste delicious Dutch cheese at the Noordermarkt every Saturday UITSMIJTER: A CLASSIC DISH If youre in a caf and cant decide what to eat, just do as the locals do and order the uitsmijter (pro- nounced outs-may-ter). This is Hollands contribu- tion to world comfort and breakfast food and is on the menu of nearly every caf worth its salt in the Neth- erlands. Although presentation varies from place to place, its basically two or three fried eggs sunny side up served on slices of bread with ham and melted cheese. Some of the swankier establishments in town will also oer gourmet cheeses, homemade bread and roast beef or prosciutto instead of ham with a side salad, but this classic Dutch staple is essentially an open-faced egg sandwich. Although its usually a huge meal, its often one of the cheapest items on the menu, which is perhaps why its also so popular with frugal locals. In case youre wondering, uitsmijter means bouncer or someone who throws people out of clubs, because it was once considered the ideal meal to chow down on before crashing after a long night out. 16 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum TIBETAN TIBET RESTAURANT Despite its uninspired name, the Tibet Restaurant oers a tru- ly diverse selection of Himalayan specialities and even some politically incorrect Chinese Sichuan dishes. The menu also provides plenty of inane comments about the food that are meant to be funny, but unfortunately come up a little short in the humour department, but since our sizzling pork was truly delicious and spicy, well take those comments at face value in the whimsical spirit that they were written.QB-1, Lange Niezel 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 11 37, www.tibet-restaurant.nl. Open 15:00 - 24:00. (10 - 16). A TURKISH GLLOGLU Since 1871 Gllolu has used its secret family recipes to create wonderful handmade desserts like baklava, Anato- lias most famous treat. The exquisite avour of these reci- pes have become so beloved that Gllolu has the hon- our of calling itself the biggest baklava baker in the world with establishments in dozens of countries including Lib- ya. You can also enjoy other pastries, pies and cakes and all can be enjoyed with real Turkish coee. The restaurant, caf and shop is tastefully decorated with a mixture of Eu- ropean and Ottoman features.QB-3, Reguliersbreestraat 7, tel. (+31) 203 20 42 00, www.gulluoglu.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. JKS UPMARKET RESTAURANTS &SAMHOUD PLACES Israeli chef Moshik Roth has brought the fascinating world of molecular gastronomy to the Oosterdokseiland. Al- though a three- or six-course meal will cost you roughly the same as a one-night stay at a fancy Amsterdam hotel, this chic hotspot is a must for true foodies. If you appreci- ate good food, but not the price tag then reserve a spot in the lounge, which has a much more aordable menu. Did we mention that &Samhoud Places has two Michelin stars?QG-4, Oosterdokskade 5, tel. (+31) 202 60 20 94, www.samhoudplaces.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue 18:30 - 01:00, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (three- course meal 130). AL VEGETARIAN LIBRIJE ZUSJE Reservations are absolutely essential at Librije Zusje. The same people who brought you the famous vegetarian res- taurant with Michelin stars in Zwolle have exported the concept to the posh premises of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel. The interior is what you would expect from a hotel chain such as this, a delicate mix of corn yellow comfy seats and tables covered in ne white linens, which blend in per- fectly with the turquoise blue walls. It also oers views of the biggest courtyard garden in the city and the special chefs vegetarian menu is a mix of seemingly unrecogni- sable substances that come together like a symphony in your mouth.QG-7, Herengracht 542-556, tel. (+31) 207 18 46 00, www.waldorfastoria.hilton.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Vegetarian menu: 86/person. JABXW VIETNAMESE VIETNAM RESTAURANT Although it oers plenty of Chinese dishes like Peking duck and egg foo yung, the restaurant with the boring name and interior also oers Vietnamese classics like pho soup and bun thom thit nuong cha gio which really isnt as complicated as it sounds. Its basically vermicelli with roast pork, shrimp, spring rolls and lettuce served in a big bowl with a vinegar chilli sauce on the side. Bear in mind that some of the noodle dishes, like the one just mentioned, are served cold.QB-1, Zeedijk 57, tel. (+31) 206 38 62 34, www.restaurant-vietnam.nl. (8 - 18). A The busy tasting room at Brouwerij t IJ BITTER... BALLS? The name bitterballen, or bitter balls, conjures up all kinds of images and not entirely wholesome ideas from sour edibles hardly t for consumption to a sex toy you might nd in the Red Light district. In fact, these deep-fried morsels of God knows what are a staple of Dutch cuisine and are on oer in nearly every caf throughout the country. Youll see rened people in suits gulping down these breadcrumb encrusted snacks at gallery openings just as often as you see construction workers slowly chew- ing them with a beer after a days work. Why slowly you might ask. The soft interior, a ragout of meat, parsley, onion, spices and other mystery ingredients is often served at a temperature usually only seen in magma chambers beneath volcanoes. This always creates inter- esting facial expressions, unusual sucking sounds and the inevitable grasping for any cold liquid available. If youre too scared to try this national treat, watch our video at www.inyourpocket.com/Netherlands/Amster- dam/Restaurants. If you do decide to give it a go, then dont forget to dip it in some tasty Dutch mustard. Autumn 2014 17 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum CAFS Amsterdam caf culture is simply fantastic. You can sit in an historic establishment thats over 100 years old or sip a special coee poured by a professional barrista. CAF KOBALT Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night cocktails, this incredibly popular eating and drinking establish- ment is located in a medieval building with, rough, worn oors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typically gabled exterior not far from the station. Locals know that a table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and even in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy aordable Dutch and international cuisine not to mention a good selection of draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. You can also listen to DJs on Friday nights and live jazz on Sundays from 17:00.QE-4, Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59, www. cafekobalt.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (8 - 15). AIEB CAF VAN ZUYLEN This quiet, yet popular caf oers a bright interior with great views, wood tables and hardwood oors as well as wood benches along the walls so you can get to know your neighbours better. Although Van Zuylen serves sand- wiches and toasties we recommend its brownies, cakes or, better yet, one of its breakfasts from a standard continen- tal to fried eggs and bacon. In the evening locals come for wine, cocktails and draught beer until after midnight. The caf is actually split in two parts, so if one is too crowded just try the one next door.QA-2, Torensteeg 4 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 39 10 55, www.cafevanzuylen.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (5 - 12). A CAF WHEELS This casual caf decorated in the Dutch fashion, meaning its tabletops are covered with rugs, is a good place to take a break for a cheap breakfast cooked by its friendly owner who often sings as he fries eggs in the kitchenette. Drink a coee or something stronger with a magazine to the tempting sound of sizzling bacon or have a seat outside on this quiet shopping street. Homemade burgers, BLTs and other sandwiches as well as a soup of the day are also available.QF-6, Wolvenstraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 22 86 73. Open 11:00 - 19:00. (5 - 9). BW GEORGE DELI U.S.A. This impressive bistro not far from Rembrandtplein is lo- cated above a posh supermarket and it oers a black and white interior that includes a huge counter bar and table- tops made of marble. You can drop by any time of the day and order great breakfasts like eggs Benedict or Florentine, freshly made sandwiches from classic Ruebens and BLTs to lox and bagels or spend a little more money and splurge on oysters (in season) with a glass of Champagne or shot of Grey Goose vodka. Gourmet coee and are also on the menu.QH-6, Utrechtsestraat 17, tel. (+31) 203 30 01 71, www.cafegeorge.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. (5 - 10). A CLASSIC CAFS CAF DE ZWART This tiny, classic old world caf boasts an inticate, multico- loured tile oor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can or- der coee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian draught beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sand- wiches are also on oer as well as a large outdoor terrace with great views of the hubbub on the square. Given its prime location, Caf de Zwarts food and drink are surpris- ingly cheap.QA-3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24 65 11. Open 09:00 - 01:00. B CAF SCHILLER Caf Schiller is an average sized eating and drinking estab- lishment with a big history and a favourite among young and old Amsterdammers, as well as a hang out for the citys fourth estate the stingiest lot of tipplers youll nd, unless of course theyve already has few. Old portraits of venerated men adorn its elegant walls, yet the atmosphere is friendly, relaxed and open. The whole range of IJ microbrews is avail- able in bottles and the wine list is simple and within reach of average citizens and lowly travel writers. The cuisine is more upmarket and you can try suckling pig, cod llet stued with oysters or llet mignon for roughly 20.QB-3, Rem- brandtplein 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 98 46, www.cafeschiller. nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. (15 - 20). A DE KAT IN DE WIJNGAERT This casual caf and bar is often full at the weekend when many a local comes in for a big breakfast, a beer and the days paper. Seating at one of half a dozen worn wooden tables is limited so singles are encouraged to belly up to the long, red granite counter for food and drink or a cup of coee and some pleasant conversation. Try one of its toasted sandwiches or a Dutch fry up.QD-4, Lindengracht 160HS, tel. (+31) 206 22 45 54, www. dekatindewijngaert.nl/. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (7 - 12). B Youll have to share local cafs with a cat or two 18 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum NIGHTLIFE Once again, the following is but a fraction of the nightlife reviews that weve covered in Amsterdam Centrum. For a full list of pubs, clubs and Red Light hot spots as well as videos visit www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com. ADULT ENTERTAINMENT CASA ROSSO This iconic live sex theatre provides continuous action for as long as you like. The programme varies over the course of the evening and ranges in theme from simple strip numbers and couples fornicating on a rotating bed to lesbian lovers and vibrator acts. In fact, it seems that Casa Rosso provides something for all of the popular fetishes including a husky woman so as not to neglect the chubby chasers among us.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106 - 108, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: 35; 50 including four drinks. A THE BANANEN BAR & CLUB Downstairs for 50 you can drink all you can swill for one hour on the lounge bar with a variety of talented women who can do all kinds of interesting things with ping pong balls, markers and of course bananas. Upstairs is the club, which has a, shall we say, more dignied atmosphere where guests pay 10 admission to sit by the pole where beautiful women show their moves in various states of undress. Ordering drinks is mandatory.QB-1, Oudezi- jds Achterburgwal 37, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www. bananenbar.nl. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Admission: bar 45, club 10. BARS BIBLOS It would take the better part of a day just to describe all of the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or so licence plates from around the globe, currency both young and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles, bowling pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else can we say about the atmosphere? Its smoky, packed with both foreigners and locals and fun. Although plenty of beers and cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular. QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21 70. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. . AX BLACK TIGER BAR This place has little to do with tigers save the cheesy stripes painted on the ceiling high above the bar. Huge murals of Bowie, Bono and Lenon cover one wall while Sinead, Lennox and Grace Jones occupy the space behind the bartenders. You can order a Heineken and smoke ciga- rettes to your hearts content while listening to contem- porary and classic rock music, which is a welcome change to some of the crap played at other bars in the area. Pool tables and a coeeshop are available downstairs, but wed just like to remind you that theres a huge painting of Grace Jones here. Talk about your Red Light fetishes!QB-1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 23, tel. (+31) 206 22 72 46, www.blacktiger-bar.com. X CAF DE KOE We really like this laid back place where you can enjoy a good brew or cocktail with a board game during the day or attempt to mark your territory among dozens of rowdy patrons at night. Its kind of like walking into a friends house party except your best buddy probably doesnt have a giant white mural of a cow in his living room or glittering wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar. Alternative rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below can bring on a premature case of the munchies.QE-7, Marnixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25 44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. A CAF EMMELOT This little pubs popularity is no doubt due to its good location on a major Red Light thoroughfare near some of the best window shopping, although you could make the argument that the loud 1980s music really brings em in. Others probably appreciate that the smoking ban isnt enforced here, but we personally only came for the cheap late night drinks and the pool table. In any event, Emmelot also provides a big TV and if you beg the bar sta they might even put on a football match. Ladies need to ask for the key to crapper at the bar, but the mens trough is open to all.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 52, tel. (+31) 206 22 16 26. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BX RED LIGHT STREETS Dont be one of those tour- ists fresh o the train that asks the nearest local where the Red Light District is located. Its not hard to nd so just walk straight down the Damrak, as most people do, and make a left at the Grasshopper. Then just keep walking pretty much straight ahead until you hit Ou- dezijds Voorburgwal and, one canal farther, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which is the main strip with lots of ladies and most of the sex thea- tres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is also chock full of working girls and you should de- nitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg, Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby. Although not as popular with tourists, theres also a street full of red lights between the Spuistraat and the Singel on Oude Nieuwstraat. Autumn 2014 19 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum CAF HEFFER Although lots of establishments claim to be grand cafs in Holland, Heer truly lives up to this illustrious title. Por- celain beer taps, ceramic jenever jugs, antique tile oors and gigantic chandeliers hanging from high ceilings make this elegant place a favourite among beer connoisseurs who need a break from dusty brown bars. The selection of brews is excellent, but many people come for the delicious cuisine and great desserts. Live sports are often shown on the big screens.QA-1, Oudebrugsteeg 7, tel. (+31) 204 28 44 88, www.hefer.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (5 - 15). A WEBER Weber is billed as a club/bar for an alternative crowd loth to listen to pop and techno music on their night out and wed have to agree. At the weekend its packed, quite stuy and quite hard to get into and even harder to get out. New Wave and indie music icons line one wall, while the other boasts three portraits of American astronauts and what appears to be the head of a water bualo. Al- ternative indeed. Seating on faux leopard skin seats in the cellar is often easier to nd.QE-8, Marnixstraat 397, tel. (+31) 206 22 99 10, www.hotelweber.nl. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. A BEER BARS DE BIERFABRIEK Watch out! Youre bound to end up completely ham- mered, slipping and sliding across the peanut shell- littered floor, especially if you choose to sit at a table with your own beer tap at this large minimalist space inspired by American bars. The Beer Factory offers the simplest of menus that basically consists of mouth- watering grilled chicken and beer, lots of beer, which can be both its strongest and weakest selling point depending on your point of view. In a nutshell, pea- nut lovers, beer aficionados and those who enjoy the simple things in life will definitely have a good time here.QA-2/3, Rokin 75, tel. (+31) 205 28 99 10, www. bierfabriek.nl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (14 - 19). PJAK IN DE WILDEMAN Just look at the chalkboard above the door to see whats on draught at one of Amsterdams best beer bars, which is located in a former distillery. Even brew hounds like us are a little overwhelmed in a place like this, but thankfully the friendly sta can suggest one of the nearly 20 beers available on draught or perhaps one of the 200 brews In de Wildeman oers in bottles. If youre still not convinced, the bartender will pour you a small sample to taste be- fore you order. The spacious interior consists of the usual wooden tables, but also a black and white tiled oor and a long green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and cheese to frites are also available.QA-1, Kolksteeg 3, tel. (+31) 206 38 23 48, www.indewildeman.nl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. BILLIARDS & POOL THE POOL HOLE This partially sunken cellar oers half a dozen tables and a laid back Bohemian atmosphere with good tunes on the sound system and lots of candlelight.QA-3, Voetboog- straat 3, tel. (+31) 203 30 08 13, www.thepoolhole.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB BREW PUBS BROUWERIJ T IJ You really have to want to nd this place. Thankfully, we did, but our thirst for new brews is, of course, the stu of legends. Just look for the giant windmill about a 20-minute walk northwest of the Artis Zoo along the Hoogte Kadijk to nd this microbrewery oering at least six unique beers including something akin to a pilsner as well as the spicy (their words) Columbus, which has an alcohol content of 9%. The tasting room is functional and doesnt oer much decoration or seating which is why most people choose to imbibe at the picnic tables outside. Beers are remarkably cheap, but only snacks are available so you might want to pace yourself. Visit its website for information on brewery tours and merchan- dise.QK-5, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 203 20 17 86, www. brouwerijhetij.nl. Open 14:00 - 20:00. BS PROEFLOKAAL DE PRAEL Hidden in a narrow alley youll nd the tasting room of the De Prael microbrewery. Sample all of the companys beers in an atmosphere thats too hip and positively over- whelming to describe. Three levels of old mismatched furniture, white tiles, faux Persian rugs, wooden tables and beer memorabilia await you in a space thats industrial, old-fashioned and modern all at once, not to mention the actual brewery itself visible behind a glass wall. Good pub grub is also on the menu and rock tunes dominate the soundtrack.QB-1, Oudezijds Armsteeg 26, tel. (+31) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. A LONDON CALLING Every year the Paradiso Club hosts this biannual event in the spring and autumn to showcase up-and-coming bands that you may not have heard of, but which will no doubt be renowned artists in the future, if not household names. You can check out the latest edition of this alter- native rock extravaganza on October 31 and November 1, but be sure to buy your tickets as soon as possible as concerts sell out quickly. Previous participants of London Calling have included Florence & the Machine, Franz Ferdinand and Bloc Party. Visit www.londoncalling.nl for more information. 20 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum BROWN BARS CAF BRANDON This classic brown bar is popular with both young and old, but tourists are seldom seen here. Perhaps its the lack of a TV or the whi of cigarette smoke that discourages them from entering. Maybe the sight of rugs as tablecloths is o-putting. In any case, its a good place to meet locals, especially in the evening when it lls up, and the location is picturesque to say the least.QE-5, Keizersgracht 157, tel. (+31) 654 34 71 36. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. JX CAF DE DOELEN Theres sand on the oor, stained glass Tiany-style lamps hang from the ceiling, large mason jars of nuts and mari- nated vegetables are stored next to the beer taps and a carved billy goats head watches everyone disturbingly from its perch above the bar. On the other hand, De Doel- en is rmly rooted in the 21st century. The coee it serves is produced by a fair trade collective in Bolivia, good al- ternative music emanates from the speakers and youre not allowed to smoke inside. Needless to say, the Belgian and Dutch beers on draught are quite good and its small terrace on the canal is tempting to any passer-by in the summer.QB-3, Kloveniersburgwal 125, tel. (+31) 206 24 90 23. Open 09:00 - 01:00. B CAF DE ORANJERIE Some would say that it looks like the place is falling apart, but we think that it has lots of character. Sure, the old oor is cracked in several places and giant bits of brown plaster hang precariously from the ceiling, but Oranjerie has some other unique features like an undulating wall thats cov- ered with a layer of events posters so thick youre almost afraid to sit next to it for fear it might crash down on you. Lots of delicious brews are available on draught and in bottles and a surprisingly good food menu is on oer after 18:00 that includes such tasty dishes as prawns in Pernod and Ricard sauce.QD-4, Binnen Oranjestraat 15hs, tel. (+31) 206 23 46 11, www.cafeoranjerie.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. B CAF SLIJTERIJ OOSTERLING This wonderful bar has been serving thirsty Amsterdam- mers since 1877. A mix of young and elderly patrons play cards, sip jenever or knock back strong Belgian and Dutch double bocks here under the shadow of a huge antique ad for Oosterling liquors at the far end. Huge barrels of spirits decorate the right-hand wall and hang precariously over the heads of the local clientele, but the bars most curi- ous feature is the height of its hip-high bar with match- ing stools that look like a Tolkien-inspired tavern expect- ing Hobbits for happy hour.QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 140, tel. (+31) 206 23 41 40. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. DE DRUIF Although the building supposedly dates back to 1585, the bar opened in 1631 making it one of Amsterdams oldest. The views have changed, but in all likelihood the interior hasnt experienced much tampering over the centuries and thats the way that the middle-aged to elderly patrons like it. Wooden jenever barrels are lined up behind the bar and the wooden table in the back room is covered with a carpet in keeping with Hollands oddball interior design traditions. A few interesting draught beers are available in addition to local spirits and you can pu away on a cigar or a cigarette with the rest of the old salts here.QI-4, Rapen- burgerplein 83, tel. (+31) 206 24 45 30. Open 15:00 - 24:00. Closed Tue. BX ONDER DE OOIEVAAR (UNDER THE STORK) Its obvious that this popular brown bar is run by a new generation of beer and spirits purveyors. Its website is advertised prominently on the front window, the inte- rior is made of wood, but hardly worn, the clientele look young and professional and smoking is strictly forbid- den. An excellent selection of beer is available from Trappist brews to local concoctions from the IJ micro- brewery right here in Amsterdam. Cocktails, snacks, a TV and even a dartboard are also available. In short, its a cosy, modern 21st-century take on a classic concept.QH- 7, Utrechtsestraat 119, tel. (+31) 206 24 68 36, www. onderdeooievaar.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:30 - 01:00. AB CASINOS & GAMBLING HOLLAND CASINO Located on the water between Leidseplein and the Ri- jksmuseum, this stylish casino has plenty of eating and drinking options and a great summer terrace. Inside youll nd well-known games like poker, roulette, black jack and loads of slot machines in two separate halls and focused gamblers seated in expensive leather chairs doing battle with machines with imaginative names like Rich Girls, King Kong Cash, Outback Jack and Cash Fever. Convenient mini- guides oering quick courses in gambling are available for beginners who dont know the rules.QF-8, Max Euwe- plein 62, tel. (+31) 205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino.nl. Open 12:00 - 03:00. POJAUGKX Amsterdam has scores of historic brown bars Autumn 2014 21 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum BOCK BEER FESTIVAL What began as a small gath- ering of bock beer enthu- siasts in a tiny Amsterdam brown bar back in 1978 has evolved into a three- day brew festival that at- tracts beer acionados from around Europe. Organised by PINT, an organisation that promotes traditional Dutch brews, this years festival will take place from October 24 - 26 in the Beurs van Berlage building (A-2, Damrak 277, www.beursvanberlage.nl). Admission will set you back around 10 and each beer costs roughly 2.50. Last years event was attended by over 10,000 beer fans and live music will entertain festivalgoers, so youre guaran- teed a good time. Opening times are as follows: Fri 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. For more in- formation visit www.pint.nl. CLUBS BARKODE This club which opened at the end of 2012 calls itself the home base of techno, tech-house and deephouse and thats actually no exaggeration. A visit to Barkode is going back to basics on the three levels. You might expect the club, which is the successor of what was once Club Home near the Amstel to be bigger, but the atmosphere is in- timate and clearly for lovers of international techno acts with parties like Raven is Leven and Nachtcollege. If you like your music to be bubbly and smooth, this is not the place for you.QB-3, Wagenstraat 3-7, tel. (+31) 206 20 13 75, www.barkodeamsterdam.nl. Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A CLUB ESCAPE Dont let the name fool you. When partying in Amster- dam, theres no real escaping this large collection of clubs, unsubtly situated at the Rembrandtplein. Since 1986, Es- cape has been successfully run by twin brothers. The shrill house music in Escape Club wont appeal to everyone, but you can move on to four other separate areas: Deluxe, Studio, Ca and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway because youre caught between high school students and tourists? For more class, you can always escape to Jimmy Woos. QB-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22 11 11, www. escape.nl. Open Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00, Sun 23:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY Were more at home at a punk rock show than a house club, but even we could sense that something special was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens through 40-somethings genuinely appreciate the profes- sional international DJs from as far away as the States. The style is casual so dont worry about your trainers and leave your D&G gear at home. This isnt exactly the place for the supercial glitterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music. Belly up to the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join the action. Unlike the crowded faux clubs on Leidseplein blasting Top 40, this place is the real deal.QF-7, Lijnbaans- gracht 238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00 08, www.sugarfactory. nl. Open Thu, Sun 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission: 5 - 12. AE WINSTON KINGDOM The sleaziness of touristy Warmoesstraat, Amsterdams notoriously naughty street, might make one think twice about a visit to Winston Kingdom, but that would be a mistake. This dark grati-sprayed club actually oers de- cent dance nights and smashing live performances from tomorrows big indie and electro acts like Justice and The Gaslight Anthem who have both played here. Filled with a surprising mix of lost tourists and music-loving locals, this is an excellent escape from the WarmoesQA-2, War- moesstraat 131, tel. (+31) 206 23 13 80, www.winston. nl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admis- sion: 5 - 10. E COCKTAILS BO CINQ A regular spot for after-work drinks since 2009, Bo Cinq sports a cosy, old brick-house living room look with pride. For snacks and smoking, there are the custom-made chairs in the two large and comfy lounge spaces, but dont forget to enjoy Arabic and French specialities, too. Unexpectedly stylish, the place is not for the budget minded among us, but the high standards and friendly sta make Bo Cinq worth a lounge session.QF-8, Prinsengracht 494, tel. (+31) 206 22 06 82, www.bo5.nl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PJIK DOOR 74 Talk about a hidden gem! Youll denitely walk past this place a few times before realising theres a doorbell and a mysteri- ous big black door worth noticing. But its not just a trendy concept or an attempt to be hip. Inside youll be moved by excellent drinks, including vintage Champagnes if you can af- ford them, attentive bar sta, free olives and nuts and a fun speakeasy atmosphere. But dont forget to make a reservation or youll have to queue up with all the others ringing the door- bell.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 74I, tel. (+31) 634 04 51 22, www.door-74.com. Open 20:00 - 02:00. JA SKYLOUNGE One of the best views of the historic heart of Amsterdam can now be found at SkyLounge. This trendy cocktail bar on the 11th oor of the DoubleTree by Hilton is a purveyor of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terric view of the city centre is actually priceless. Fortunately, the sta are a little slow at this altitude so you can make your elabo- rate cocktail last quite a while.QG/H-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00, doubletree.hilton.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. JABXW 22 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum COMEDY CLUBS BOOM CHICAGO This is the only English-language comedy club in Amster- dam. Every night you can watch an evening of improv and skits la Saturday Night Live performed by the citys fun- niest English-speakers in a theatre cleverly hidden by its bar/restaurant. The admission is steep, but Amsterdams American and British expats dont seem to mind as Friday and Saturday nights usually sell out. You can also order food and drink in the auditorium or just relax at the bar downstairs and save yourself 20. Most performances begin at 20:15, but visit its website for exact show times. QF-7, Leidseplein 12, tel. (+31) 204 23 01 01, www. boomchicago.nl. Admission: 20. AK IRISH PUBS SLAINTE IRISH PUB This Irish pub oers loads of red pleather booths, wood tables and chairs and a decent selection of background rock music, not to mention sports on a bunch of at screen TVs. Guinness and Murphys are its staple brews as well as Heineken, which is 2 for 1 during happy hour. Where Slainte truly excels is in its big breakfasts Irish, Dutch or otherwise, especially the Hungry Man piles of bacon, eggs, sausages and mushrooms on a sesame seed bun. Take a shot of Jameson to ush out your arteries after- ward.QA-1, Warmoesstraat 87, www.wittetulp.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. AB JENEVER BARS IN DE OLOFSPOORT The historic building that houses this charming bar was built in 1618 and replaced the 14th-century St. Olafs Gate, hence its unusual name. The Olofspoort oers over 200 dierent spirits including traditional and exotic local jen- evers, Dutch liqueurs and bitters as well as homemade cherry and liquorice liqueurs. Beer drinkers wont be disap- pointed either as the Belgian Aigem Double on draught is delicious. Unlike other tasting rooms of it genre, this one provides plenty of space for its patrons in two large rooms, but make a note of its limited opening hours.QB- 1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 39 18, www. olofspoort.com. Open 16:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 01:30, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. A LIVE MUSIC BOURBON STREET This place actually looks a bit like a barn on the inside with the exception of the musical instruments hanging from the rafters and the chandeliers hanging above the bar. At the weekend its hard to manoeuvre through the sea of bodies assembled here to listen to blues and rock bands and the bouncers dont seem to have any qualms about letting as many people in as is physically possible, but at least youre getting real entertainment for your 5 cover. If youd like to use the toilet, try coming on a weeknight. Live music every evening.QF-7, Leidsekruisstraat 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 23 34 40, www.bourbonstreet.nl. Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 3 - 5. AE THE WATERHOLE This is the kind of place where you would expect Jim Mor- rison (or someone like him) to be a regular. A true road- house. Its dark, loud and little bit smoky and every square meter of wall space is covered either in booze bottles, rock posters, grati or musical instruments. Listen to live mu- sic from folk and blues to rock nearly every night, shoot pool on three tables or order a Bavaria draught, which is nothing special, but plenty of good beers are available in bottles. If you need another excuse to come, it also oers a good happy hour until 21:00 on weeknights.QE-8, Kor- teleidsedwarsstraat 49, tel. (+31) 206 20 89 04, www. waterhole.nl. Open 14:00 - 03:00. EBX PUBS BALLS This aptly named pub doesnt have much to do with sports or, in our estimation, courageous men, but it does oer three red felt pool tables on the second oor for 2 per game. On the ground oor you can expect a typically Dutch brown bar with a not so typical copper-topped bar with loads of stools. Bavaria beer is poured from bil- liard ball taps, but if youd like something better Duvel is available in bottles. Rock music seems to rule the realm here, but you can forgo the guitar chords in the smoking room where you can watch sports on TV.QF-6, Reguliers- dwarstraat 37. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. CAF DE TUIN This place looks like some youngsters inherited the fam- ily bar and gave it a funky, contemporary upgrade. Floral print wallpaper covers the far wall and if youre wonder- ing why its so bright back there, its natural illumination courtesy of a large skylight thats decorated with an art nouveau-style painting of a mermaid. Sta place drinks on raised platforms on the bar so as not to knock over the huge stacks of glasses piled up next the to the beer taps. A young and boisterous crowd listens to rock music here at the weekend but its usually not too dicult to get a table. IJ brewery beers are available.QD-5, Tweede Tu- indwarsstraat 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 45 59. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. AB Enjoy a traditional spirit at a local jenever bar Autumn 2014 23 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum SPORTS BARS PLAYERS Youll nd this cellar sports bar full of foreign men watch- ing football on SkySports only a stones throw from Dam Square. Occasionally youll even see a bored spouse or girl- friend faking enthusiasm for the match of day. The louder- than-life commentary and the giant photos of the terraces almost make you believe that youre in the stadium. In any event, its a great place to watch sports, its open very late and it pours Guinness and Kilkenny brews, not to mention pitchers of local Bavaria. Pool tables are also available.QA- 2, Warmoesstraat 170, tel. (+31) 204 20 05 63, www. amsterdam-dam.com. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Fri 16:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. A SATELLITE SPORTS CAF If youre hungry for sports and, well, lots of food, then a visit to this place with the boring, yet aptly chosen name of Satellite Sports Caf might just be in order. The place is decorated with at screen TVs and not much else, which means its clearly meant for gents with a hankering for football and an appetite worthy of a Viking feast or Roman banquet. Order enormous English breakfasts, pancakes, pizzas, burgers and steaks or test your stomachs mettle with its speciality: all-you-can-eat ribs for only 9.95. Shot specials and pitchers of Heineken are available on two oors on busy Leidseplein.QF-8, Leidseplein 11, tel. (+31) 204 27 25 29, www.satellitesportscafe.nl. Open 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AB TEASERS Its rened motto babes and beer curiously neglects to mention sports. The beer part is obvious. Youre on the Damrak so a pint of Heineken will set you back 6.50 and as far as the babes go well give you a hint. That doesnt refer to the clientele, but rather the beautiful waitresses in cheer- leader outts that take turns dancing on the bar. Teasers also has about a dozen TVs showing football most of the day and a wide range of pub food from English fry ups to steaks with prices betting the bars location. A small smoking room is also available, but you have to pay 0.50 for piss-poor toilets. QA-1, Damrak 35 - 36, tel. (+31) 204 21 84 11. ABX WHISKY BARS WHISKYCAF L&B Look up at the nearly unending choices of whisky on oer on the blackboard, take a deep breath and nd your favou- rite scotch. The aptly named Whiskycaf has over 1500 dif- ferent single malts, bourbons and sour mashes from around the world including famous highland spirits as well as drinks from obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze in around the central bar and ponder the possibilities, but dont worry. You wont get dirty looks from the sta if you order one of its excellent beers or wines. You can also attend one of its frequent tastings.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 82 - 84, tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen.nl. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A WINE BARS BUBBLES & WINES In 2011 Bubbles & Wine was chosen as the best wine bar in the city, so you can be fairly sure that youll nd a cabar- net or pinot noir that suits you. Its wide selection of 400 bottles, of which 58 are served by the glass, is one of the main attractions of this modern hot spot. The friendly sta will also go out of their way to help you if you havent got a clue what to order.QA-2, Nes 37, tel. (+31) 204 22 33 18, www.bubblesandwines.com. Open 15:30 - 21:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. JAGW MULLINERS WIJNLOKAAL The rst thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar, apart from the rened atmosphere, the polished wooden bar and the green leather benches that put one in mind of an Eng- lish gentlemans club, was the smell of garlic. Escargot was being prepared along with a myriad of other delicious tapas, but Mulliners main focus is of course wine in all its lovely incarnations. Order a bottle or a glass from the months specials on the blackboard and relax in this candlelit room to the soothing sounds of classical music.QF-7, Lijnbaans- gracht 266/267, tel. (+31) 206 27 97 82, www.mulliners- wijnlokaal.nl. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. A VYNE Although wine is still considered a poor relative of beer in Dutch bars, this attitude has been slowly changing over the past few years. Here, however, at the stylish and trendy Vyne, that most ancient of alcoholic beverages takes centre stage and the warm interior is reason enough for a visit. One wall consists entirely of a lounge sofa, while the other side of this long narrow room is a large depository for thousands of bottles of wine. Running the length of the wine bar in the middle of the room is a table with space enough for you and 99 of your friends.QE-7, Prinsengracht 411, tel. (+31) 203 44 64 08, www.vyne.nl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. JA DOCUMENTARY FILM FEST Each autumn documentary lm acionados arrive in Amsterdam to see the very latest lms about true life in various cultures around the globe. This years documenta- ries will be screened from Novem- ber 19 - 30 at the following locations: Path Tuschinski (Reguliersbreestraat 26), Path de Munt (Vijzelstraat 15), De Brakke Grond (Nes 43), EYE (IJpromenade 1), Melkweg (Lijnbaansgracht 234a), Podium Mozaek (Bos en Lommerweg 191), Het Ketelhuis (Pazzanistraat 4) and Toomler (Breitnerstraat 2). You can buy tickets online or at the festival box oce at the Hotel NH Caransa (G-7, Rembrandtplein 19). For more informa- tion visit www.idfa.nl. 24 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum SIGHTSEEING From historic canal houses and royal palaces to world-class museums, Amsterdams city centre has it all. ESSENTIAL CENTRUM THE OLD CHURCH (DE OUDE KERK) Although no one knows for certain, its believed that Am- sterdams oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was erected at the end of the 13th or possibly the beginning of the 14th century. The important edice wasnt only used for religious purposes and often served as a safe for precious docu- ments, a treasury and also a homeless shelter. It was also the place where couples had to register their intentions to marry as Rembrandt and his bride Saskia did in 1638. Shes buried on the far end of the building opposite the entrance. The historic monument and its wooden ceiling were on the verge of collapse in the 20th century and it was nally closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In 1979 it was again opened to the public and is now one of the citys most visit- ed attractions.QB-1, Oudekerksplein 23, tel. (+31) 206 25 82 84, www.oudekerk.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 5, children 12 and under free. BREWERY TOURS BROUWERIJ DE PRAEL This small microbrewery was originally supposed to be called De Parel (the Pearl), but it turned out that someone already had the rights to that name so they just changed a couple of letters around and De Prael was born. You can take a tour of the small premises in the Red Light dis- trict and learn about the brewing process followed by a beer in its new tasting room which has a view of all the brewing action. The owners also contribute to society by employing people who have a tough time nding work elsewhere and you can see them hard at work in the cellar where one lls the bottles, another puts the cap on and a third person attaches the labels. The brewery makes about eight dierent beers and you can buy all kinds of De Prael merchandise in its shop.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 30, tel. (+31) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CANAL TOURS BLUE BOAT COMPANY Exploring the UNESCO protected canals is often the high- light of any trip to Amsterdam so why not take in the citys best sights in a 75-minute canal boat tour for only 15? You can also take a 90-minute evening cruise (17.50) and enjoy the view with a drink in your hand or spoil your signicant other with a luxurious 2.5-hour dinner cruise (67.50). Visit its website for exact departure times and lo- cations.QF-9, Stadhouderskade 30, tel. (+31) 206 79 13 70, www.blueboat.nl. (7 - 15). A KEYTOURS EXCURSIONS This company organises more tours than there are tourists in Amsterdam. Some sound a bit tacky like the Pizza Cruise or Candlelight Cruise, but this is one of the better options in town if you dont have a lot of time and youd like to save some cash.QE-8, Paulus Potterstraat 8, tel. (+31) 203 05 53 33, www.keytours.nl. Open 08:30 - 17:00. JA CENTRUM ATTRACTIONS MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM Queues at the Amsterdam Tussauds can be a bit long at lunchtime, but thats because everyone is photographed before taking the lift upstairs where youll be entertained by a light and sound show dedicated to the Golden Age of the city in the 17th century. This is followed by a maze of rooms featuring life size wax gures of your favourite heads of state, actors, rock gods, artists and footballers. Have your photo taken with the Dalai Lama, Gandhi, Ma- donna, Pablo Picasso or Winston Churchill. Youll no doubt also be blown away by what a tiny pip-squeak Lenin was or that Ronaldinhos teeth really are that big!QA-2, Dam 20, tel. (+31) 205 22 10 10, www.madametussauds.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Admission: adults 19 - 22, children 5 - 15 years 14 - 18, children 4 and under free. Last ad- mission at 17:30. AU NEW RED LIGHT SECRETS Red Light Secrets is the latest attraction in Amsterdams Red Light district and it has correspondingly long open- ing hours for late night window shoppers. In short, its es- sentially a museum dedicated to that oldest of professions - prostitution - and is supposedly the only one of its kind on the planet. A visit begins with a six-minute movie, with a simple, yet intriguing theme, namely 24 hours in the Red Light district. The next hour or so can be spent checking out typical rooms where the trade was plied as well as special S&M tools and lots of other interesting items and information. The undisputed highlight of the exhibition is the moment when youre allowed to sit behind one of the red-lit windows to see how outsiders look at you. Unfortu- nately, no souvenir shop is available, so youll have to nd a sexy gift at one of the shops in the area.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 60H, www.redlightsecrets.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Admission: 7.50. J Step inside the Houseboat Museum on the Prinsengracht Autumn 2014 25 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum CHURCHES THE PARROT: CHURCH OF STS. PETER AND PAUL (DE PAPEGAAI) In stark contrast to the non-stop racket heard from shoppers outside on the tireless Kalverstraat, this well-hidden church is a small oasis of peace and quiet. Its clandestine appear- ance is intentional as it was one of several underground Catholic churches that had to conceal their existence from Protestant persecution, hence its code name the Parrot. Just look for the tile mosaic to nd the entrance.QA-3, Kalverstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 23 18 89, www.nicolaas- parochie.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:45 - 13:30. WESTERKERK One of the symbols of Amsterdam, the Westerkerk was consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch Reformed church and it still tends to its Protestant ock to this day. Its Dutch Re- naissance style is unmistakable and its massive tower em- bellished with the crown of Austrian Emperor Maximilian soars to a height of 85m above the city. The impoverished painter Rembrandt was buried here in 1669, but no one is quite sure exactly where. Although the church is also used as a concert hall, its closed to visitors during the winter months.QE-5, Prinsengracht 281, www.westerkerk.nl. Open April - October 11:00 - 15:00. Tower admission: 6. MUSEUMS AMSTERDAM MUSEUM Although there are many cities in Europe and the Nether- lands with histories stretching much farther into the past, Amsterdams story is unique and unusual and worth dis- covering at this fascinating and eclectic museum. Follow the development of this powerful port through medieval artefacts and art to fun exhibits that highlight popular cul- ture from lms about the Ajax football club and a model of Hollands rst gay and lesbian bar, t Mandje.QA-3, Kalver- straat 92 / Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357, tel. (+31) 205 23 18 22, www.amsterdammuseum.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, chil- dren 6 - 18 years 5, children 5 and under free. BK ANNE FRANK HOUSE (ANNE FRANK HUIS) There are very few people who arent acquainted with the tragic story of Anne Frank. The diary of her time spent in the secret annex was published in 1947 and later translat- ed in over 65 languages. The popularity of her work is re- ected in the huge queues outside this museum that has been teaching Amsterdams visitors about the Holocaust, the story of the Frank family and their desperate struggle to survive and the evils of anti-Semitism and racism since 1960. Inside youll walk through the warehouse where workers attended to their business every day completely unaware that several people were hiding upstairs. .QE-5, Prinsengracht 263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www. annefrank.org. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 9, children 10 - 17 years 4.50, chil- dren nine and under free. AKW HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM (HET WOONBOOTMUSEUM) The owner of this converted freighter that dates back to 1914 knows a thing or two about houseboats as he lived onboard for 22 years before moving ashore with the rest of the landlubbers in Amsterdam. He now runs this museum which receives over 38,000 visitors each year who are cu- rious to see how people can use a boat as a permanent residence. View pictures and scale models and discover interesting facts about the waterways of the city such as the average depth on an Amsterdam canal (its 2.8m).QE- 6, Prinsengracht 296K, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 50, www. houseboatmuseum.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Open November - February Fri - Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Ad- mission: adults 3.75, children 3. MUSEUM GEELVINCK Enter the building and walk through the beautiful garden to reach this hidden gem of a canal house. Original Golden Age furniture, frescos, musical instruments and marble oors are all available for your perusal in four rooms on the ground oor while the cellar hosts exhibitions. QG- 7, Keizersgracht 633, tel. (+31) 207 15 59 00, www. museumgeelvinck.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: adult 8, children 6 - 18 years 4, children 5 and under free. MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES (TASSEN MUSEUM HENDRIKJE) What began as Hendrikje Ivos obsession with purses blos- somed into the worlds largest collection of handbags and purses with over 4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years. Located in a prestigious 17th-century home, the museum begins on the top oor where you can view satchels, boxes and let- ter cases from the 16th - 19th centuries made from every material imaginable. 20th-century exhibits include funky Art Deco purses as well as bags made from exotic animals. QH-7, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24 64 52, www. museumofbagsandpurses.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Ad- mission: adults 9,50, children under 12 free. AK SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL If you appreciate all things eques- trian than dont miss a chance to see the worlds oldest riding school at the Ziggo Dome on November 29 and 30. The Span- ish Riding School of Vienna has been promoting excellence in horseback riding for 450 years, so relive the elegant days of the Habsburgs and watch profession- als in period costume perform amazing feats on beau- tiful white stallions. Olympic gold medallist Anky van Grunsven will host the event, which will also include a special performance of the smash hit Pearl by Rotter- dams Scapino Ballet. For tickets and more information visit www.srs-live.nl or www.ticketmaster.nl. 26 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM (KONINKLIJK PALEIS AMSTERDAM) Its hard to miss the Royal Palace on Dam Square. When the building was rst opened to the public as the Town Hall in 1655, its lavish interior decorated with paintings by Ferdi- nand Bol and Rembrandt was considered to be the eighth wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made it his personal residence in 1808 when he briey served as the King of Holland, but it later became the possession of the House of Orange. After meandering through a few dull corridors youll nally walk upstairs to the main hall where your jaw is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so much pol- ished marble in one place, not to mention six giant crys- tal chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered in frescos high above the inlaid maps and nautical and astronomical charts in the oor. The audio guide, which is included in the price, is essential as none of the rooms have explanations in any language. A short movie with English subtitles is available before you take the tour.QA- 2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20 40 60, www.paleisamsterdam. nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children under 18 free. THE HASH, MARIHUANA & HEMP MUSEUM Apart from the pleasant eects that it can have on your mood and state of mind, cannabis has a thousand uses you probably never heard of. During Hollands Golden Age, Dutch East India Company ships made their ropes and sails from hemp, while today hemp bre is still one of the most durable and easy to use materials available for making clothing. The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum displays the history of industrial hemp in its gallery, while its main collection consists of items related to the history of cannabis, the culture that surrounds it and its medici- nal benets. Ancient hash pipes, 17th-century paintings of medieval Dutchmen getting high, cinema posters of Cheech and Chong, a guitar made of hemp and hundreds of other unusual items make this a fascinating place to visit. A small shop selling gifts and cannabis seeds is also attached to the museum.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburg- wal 148, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 26, www.hashmuseum. com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Admission: adults 9, children under 13 free. VAN LOON MUSEUM (MUSEUM VAN LOON) This magnicent building owned by the Van Loon family trust has a rich and storied history and is one of the few re- maining examples of authentic Dutch golden age homes in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt ap- prentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671 but passed on to dierent owners over the centuries until it was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon family whose most illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the Dutch East India Company. Although the family was one of the citys wealthiest, they cultivated a tradition of opening up their home to show o its splendour and this tradition has survived to this day. View 17th-century portraits, pe- riod furniture, 18th-century Dutch porcelain, spectacular wall murals, a centuries-old working kitchen and a spa- cious manicured garden all in the centre of Amsterdam. As you walk around its sumptuous rooms you might even run into one of the Van Loons who still stay in the home from time to time. QG-7, Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www.museumvanloon.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 7. PLACES OF INTEREST BREWERS CANAL (BROUWERSGRACHT) Although Amsterdam has no shortage of picturesque ca- nals, this beautiful waterway is one of the citys prettiest and in our opinion outshines other scenic stretches such as the Golden Bend. The Brewers Canal began its exis- tence in the 17th century but earned its name hundreds of years later when many beer brewers chose to set up shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the centre, the atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the tiny little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters and the canal is covered in small bridges.QF-8, Between the Singel and Lijnbaansgracht. EASTERN ISLANDS (OOSTELIJKE EILANDEN) Theres one thing at which the Dutch truly excel: turning water into land. Large parts of the Eastern Islands (Katten- burg, Wittenburg and Oostenburg) were reclaimed from the River IJ in the 19th century and the Dutch East India Company also had its headquarters here. Impressive build- ings like the Maritime Museum stand alongside charming homes, but bear in mind that the neighbourhood may be pretty, but theres not much else to do here apart from ad- miring the scenery.QI/J-4, Oostelijke Eilanden. ENTREPOTDOK Escaping the pull of the Artis Zoo, the Red Light District and other major tourist attractions is dicult, but a brief walk down the Entrepotdok might bring you back to your senses. Theres not much to do around here, so youre forced to admire the long row of 300-year-old warehouses that line the canal. The buildings are architecturally similar and are all named after Dutch and Belgian cities. After a brief walk back in time, you can return to Amsterdams n- est. The the Artis Zoo is located just on the other side of the water.QI/J-6, Entrepotdok. Impressive opulence at Royal Palace Amsterdam Autumn 2014 27 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum FLOWER MARKET (BLOEMENMARKT) The Flower Market is a tourist attraction and a functioning market in one. Although its often called the worlds only oating ower market, most of the browsing takes place on dry land as the stalls are located on barges moored on the Singel and although its quite attractive when walking past, its actually a bit of an eyesore when viewed from the other side of the canal. You can buy bulbs and seeds for all kinds of plants and owers and we have to admit that weve also picked up a Venus ytrap kit here, which was a huge hit with kids at home. The sellers will also send bulbs to your home address abroad and they know which countries dont allow the importation of plant materials, so you dont have to worry about having your purchase conscated at customs. Locals also buy owers here so the prices are actually quite reasonable. There are plenty of cafs and souvenir shops opposite the market.QA/B- 3, Singel (Between Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30. A GOLDEN BEND (GOUDEN BOCHT) This stretch of the Herengracht is famous for its grand manor houses that came into existence when Amster- dams ber-wealthy built their dream homes here during the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century. Although it g- ures prominently in city guides of all stripes, the buildings are actually on the boring side and lack the narrow dimen- sions and cosiness that most people associate with the capitals architecture. Youll probably walk by on your way to lots of local museums anyway, but otherwise you can give it a pass unless you need to hire one of the prominent law rms that have their oces here.QB-3, Herengracht between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat. SIGHTSEEING TOURS KAROS CITYTOURS Want to impress your loved one with a romantic ride? The coachmen in front of the Royal Palace on Dam Square will take you on a horse-drawn tour of the city from the com- fort of a nostalgic carriage.QA-2, Veemarkt 50, tel. (+31) 206 91 34 78, www.karos.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Prices from 35 (4 persons, 20 minutes). MIKES BIKE TOURS Two daily tours show you the hidden gems of the inner city (16:00) or the enchanting surroundings of the Dutch countryside (11:00). Dont expect boring guides who try to pass the time by spouting dry facts. The entertaining sta attempt to make the experience as fun as possible. QF-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel. (+31) 206 22 79 70, www. mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com. (15 - 22). JA YELLOW BIKE Yellow Bike has been renting bicycles and oering com- prehensive bike tours of Amsterdam since 1990. You can rent a bike for as little as 12/day, but if youd prefer a tour, professional sta will guide you through the city centre or take you across the IJ to explore the dikes, country cot- tages and wetlands of Noord. Its oce is located a short walk from the Central Station.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29, tel. (+31) 206 20 69 40, www.yellowbike.nl. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Also at Oudezijds Armsteeg 22. STATUES & MONUMENTS NATIONAL MONUMENT Its hard to miss the central monument on Dam Square thats often occupied by people of all ages and nation- alities sunning themselves, reading books or just relax- ing. The brainchild of renowned Dutch architect J.J.P. Oud (1890 - 1963), the National Monument made of white travertine was unveiled in 1956 as both a memorial to all Dutch men and women who suered under the Nazi oc- cupation of the Netherlands and to the nations liberation. A number of statues and reliefs symbolise the resistance expressed by all members of society from labourers to the intelligentsia and the lions on either side represent the Dutch nation. The giant pillar rises to a height of 22m. QA-2, Dam. Dam Square and the National Monument from above MOVEMBER If you happen to be in the Netherlands during the month of November you may notice an unusually large number of men sport- ing moustaches of various lengths and styles. Its not that Dutch men want to emulate their favourite 1970s porn stars, rather theyre showing their support for mens health issues such as prostate cancer. Men start out clean shaven on the rst of the month and grow out their moustaches until the end of Movember to raise money and awareness. The social campaign will include a number of special events as well as a gala party with live music, drinks and good company. For more informa- tion visit nl.movember.com/en. 28 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum PLANTAGE SIGHTSEEING The Plantage has an incredible concentration of muse- ums, historical monuments, cutting-edge architecture and beautiful parkland all in one neighbourhood. ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Founded in 1838, the Artis Royal Zoo is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands and home to roughly 700 species of fauna and 200 species of ora. The sprawling park not only of- fers a huge collection of exotic animals from near and far, but also an impressive aquarium as well as a zoology museum. Many of the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo live outdoors so you can see camels lounging in the sand or Japanese macaques jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants, bualo and giraes in their enclosures or head over to the top-notch reptile house to see pythons, giant tortoises and crocodiles or all manner of creepy-crawlies in the Insect House. You can also view nocturnal creatures in the Jungle by Night exhibit, chimpanzees in the monkey house and strange forms of life from the planets oceans in the aquarium. Two cafs and a large childrens playground are also available.QI-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. (+31) 90 02 78 47 96, www.artis.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admis- sion: adults 18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50. AK GASSAN DIAMONDS Learn everything about a girls best friend in this family- owned diamond factory where you can take a free tour of the premises in dozens of dierent languages and buy something bright and sparkly for your signicant other in one of its showrooms. Although youre by no means obli- gated to purchase anything, we recommend a visit to any young man who plans on buying an engagement ring at some point in his life. Theyll teach you about the four Cs colour, clarity, carat and cut and how to spot a fake so you dont get ripped o elsewhere. Watch diamond cutters ply their trade and nish your experience with a complimentary cup of coee or tea and a Dutch cookie at its Delftware shop next door.QH-5, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173 - 175, tel. (+31) 206 22 53 33, www.gassandiamonds.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: free. A HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM Russias most illustrious museum has a subsidiary in Am- sterdam, which is housed in a beautiful 17th classical-style building called the Amstelhof that was once a home for poverty-stricken elderly women. Since 2009, the building has hosted periodic themed exhibitions that display some of the Hermitages most prized possessions from stunningly preserved artefacts of the ancient world to masterpieces of European art. Permanent exhibits dedicated to the Am- stelhof and the origins of the Hermitage Museum and the Russian royal family are also available. The Hermitage is cur- rently hosting an exhibition entitled Dining with the Tsars. Fragile beauty from the Hermitage that will be on display until March 1, 2015.QH-6, Amstel 51, tel. (+31) 205 30 74 88, www.hermitage.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and under free. AU HORTUS BOTANICAL GARDENS (HORTUS BO- TANICUS AMSTERDAM) Located in the quiet neighbourhood of the Plantage, the Hortus Botanical Garden has been fascinating naturalists, botanists and fans of beauty for over 300 years making it one of the oldest such gardens in the world. Although only a little over one hectare in size, Hortus boasts over 4,000 species of plants from around the globe throughout its gardens and greenhouses, nearly all of which are open to the public. It specialises in cycads, or palm trees, the oldest of which was brought to the Netherlands on a V.O.C. ship centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since 1856. You can wander around the grounds and view beautiful owers, carnivorous orae, a rare Australian pine thought extinct until 1994 and even a redwood tree, which, if al- lowed to grow on its own, might just change the citys skyline in a few generations. You can also walk through the tropical and desert greenhouses, but dont miss the buttery house. You can also buy plants at its shop or have lunch at its caf that hosts live jazz on Sundays in sum- mer.QH-5, Plantage Middenlaan 2a, tel. (+31) 206 25 90 21, www.dehortus.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 8.50, children 5 - 14 years 4.50, children 4 and under free. HEK NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM AMSTERDAM (NEDERLANDS SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM) In the 17th century the Netherlands was one of the wealthiest and most important nations in the world and this was in large part due to its maritime prowess. No other country in the world had as many ships sailing the seas of the globe as Holland. After thorough renovations, the Maritime Museum once again demonstrates how the sea has dened Dutch culture. Stimulating, interactive exhib- its bring 500 years of maritime history to life. The signi- cance of this industry in the modern age is also explained in a clear and concise manner. Children will also love the museum, especially the replica of the famous VOC (Dutch East India Company) ship.QI-4, Kattenburgerplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 23 22 22, www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: 15, children 5 and over 7.50. TJAL Scary wildlife at the Royal Artis Zoo M.Zaprauskis Autumn 2014 29 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Centrum PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE Most European capitals were hardly an ideal place for Jews to call home in medieval times, but no city was more toler- ant of this ethnic group than Amsterdam in the 17th-cen- tury. As the city prospered, its population grew by leaps and bounds and among its many new arrivals were Jews from around the continent. They completed work on this synagogue in 1675 and since then it has served as a centre for Jewish life in Amsterdam housing also oces, archives, ritual baths and a rabbinate. The synagogue was com- pletely restored in 2011 and now its treasure rooms which house unique ceremonial objects are open to the public. The ticket price includes admission to the Jewish Historical Museum nearby.QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 3, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.portugesesynagoge.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission: adults 12, chil- dren 13 - 17 6, children 6 - 12 3. HAU REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM This historic house was bought by one of the Netherlands most illustrious native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum of 13,000 guilders at a time when a day labourer was con- tent to make 300 guilders in a year. An audio guide will take you through the house, which is reconstructed to look exactly as it did when Rembrandt was at the peak of his career. Sta also demonstrate how etchings were mass- produced using copper plates.QG/H-5, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 20 04 00, www.rembrandthuis.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children 6 - 17 years 3, children 5 and under free. A SCIENCE CENTER NEMO Look for the big green building jutting out into the water to nd this fun science centre that will make you wish you were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels where visitors can learn about science without the boring textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, gener- ate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change in the future with new and advanced technol- ogies; and lots of other interesting stu. An exhibition enti- tled Miracle or Science, which is dedicated to fun topics like predicting the path of a pendulum or watching a stone oat in the air will be on display until October 26 and the center will oer free admission on October 4 and 5 for Sci- ence Weekend. You can also bring your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or buy some food on the top oor terrace caf that oers a great view of the city. A good museum shop is also available where you can buy science experiments and other great souvenirs for kids. QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, info@e-NEMO.nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admis- sion: 15, children under four free. AK 30 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Centrum SHOPPING You can shop for the big brands on the pedestrian Kalver- straat, try the boutiques in the Jordaan or nd something exotic in Chinatown around the Nieuwmarkt. ANTIQUES & ART ANTIQUARIAAT LONT Owner Marieke Lont specialises in antique books, posters and postcards.QE-4, Herenstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 26 39 82, www.antiquariaat-lont.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A ANTIQUARIAN HOOGKAMP An excellent selection of antique prints, maps, cityscapes and botanicals from the 16th - 20th centuries.QG-8, Spie- gelgracht 27, tel. (+31) 206 25 88 52, www.prenten.net. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. BOOKS THE AMERICAN BOOK CENTER Book lovers could spend days in this temple to English- language literature. Skip the coee table books and maga- zines on the ground oor and climb up to the next two oors for novels, travel, history, sci-, fantasy, political sci- ence and even manga.QA-3, Spui 12, tel. (+31) 206 25 55 37, www.abc.nl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. A THE BOOK EXCHANGE Secondhand English-language books from tcion and his- tory to current events for good prices. Book exchanges also possible as the name suggests.QB-2, Kloveniersburg- wal 58, tel. (+31) 206 26 62 66, www.bookexchange.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00. DELFTWARE JORRIT HEINEN DELFT SHOP An ocial dealer of Royal Delft porcelain from cutesy sou- venirs and tiles to upmarket vases and atware. It also has an outlet in the historic Munttoren (Mint Tower).QE-6, Prin- sengracht 440, tel. (+31) 206 27 82 99, www.jorritheinen. com. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A RINASCIMENTO DELFTWARE Across the canal from the Westerkerk, this ocial Delft- ware factory dealer sells everything from plates, tiles and vases to beautiful Christmas ornaments the perfect sou- venir.QE-5, Prinsengracht 170, tel. (+31) 206 22 75 09, www.delft-art-gallery.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A DEPARTMENT STORES KALVERTOREN Youll nd this large shopping centre on the Kalverstraat near Muntplein.QA-3, Kalverstraat 212 - 220, www. kalvertoren.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:30. EROTIC GEAR FEMALE & PARTNERS An excellent assortment of sexy womens lingerie from tradi- tional silk and lace to leather and latex, not to mention classy sex toys, bondage accessories and lubricants. QA-2, Spuist- raat 100, tel. (+31) 206 20 91 52, www.femaleandpartners. nl. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. A PURE LUST As the name would suggest, this place sells all kinds of DVDs, sex toys and adult games as well as lingerie.QOu- dezijdse Voorburgwal 135, tel. (+31) 206 20 05 12, www. purelust.nu. Open 10:00 - 22:00. JA MUSIC SHOPS CONCERTO Possibly the citys, and perhaps the nations largest col- lection of new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl spread out across ve buildings: one for classical, another for world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one dedicated to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used CDs. Amazing!QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206 23 52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A FLESCH RECORDS This small shop near the Noordermarkt sells vinyl from Frank Zappa and the Damned to Nat King Cole as well as old hi- equipment, record needles and even fruit at the weekend.QD-4, Noorderkerkstraat 16, tel. (+31) 206 22 81 85/(+31) 652 65 76 69. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SPORTS & OUTDOORS FJLLRVEN BRAND CENTER This popular Swedish brand, which means arctic fox, specialises in all kinds of outdoor gear from its signature backpacks and camping essentials like tents to clothing, hiking boots and all the apparel youll need to spend time in nature. Its large brand centre in Amsterdam is conve- niently located on the Rozengracht.QD-7, Rozengracht 219 - 225, tel. (+31) 204 28 17 60, www.fallravencenter. nl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JA Youll need a good outdoors store to cope with a wet autumn Centrum Map Centrum Map 34 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Nieuw-West In the aftermath of WWII Amsterdam was in desperate need of new housing. By 1951 work began on the garden suburb of Tuinstad Slotermeer, the rst of ve new neigh- bourhoods that were added to the west end of the city. To- day, Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart, Overtoomse Veld and Osdorp comprise the urban district of Nieuw-West. A spacious design with plenty of greenery is characteristic of these new neighbourhoods, which all surround the peace- ful waters of the Sloterplas lake. ARRIVING IN NIEUW-WEST Nieuw-Wests main train station is Amsterdam Lelylaan, which has great connections with Central Station and Schiphol. The green metro line 50 is probably the easiest way to get to Nieuw-West from the railway stations at Zuid and RAI. Along the way it passes six metro stations in Nieuw-West. Many trams also travel to Nieuw-West in- cluding No.13 (Geuzenveld), Nos.7 and 14 (Slotermeer), No.17 (Osdorp Dijkgraafplein), No.1 (Osdorp de Aker) and No.2 (Nieuw Sloten). All, with the exception of Nos.7 and 14 (Dam), depart from Central Station. ACCOMMODATION DUTCH DESIGN HOTEL ARTEMIS Other Amsterdam hotels may claim to be boutique or design hotels, but this incredibly modern building has been created from top to bottom solely by Dutch design- ers and artists. Everything in this hotel incorporates some aspect of inspiring new Dutch design from its 256 rooms and 11 meeting rooms to the food and cocktails served at its fantastic restaurant and bar, De Stijl. The accommoda- tion is luxurious to say the least with modern, yet natural furnishings, oor-to-ceiling windows and standard ameni- ties such as wi- and large at screen TVs. Naturally, art is displayed throughout the hotel and it also oers a great summer terrace on the water.QN-4, John M.Keynesplein 2, tel. (+31) 207 14 10 00, www.artemisamsterdam.com. 256 rooms (superior from 89, business from 139). PiTHAUFLGBKXW hhhh WESTCORD FASHION HOTEL AMSTERDAM Located at the south end of the Rembrandt Park, this four-star design hotel has plenty to oer the discern- ing traveller who demands more than just a place to lay his head. All rooms are stylish, yet playful and even cosy unlike similar establishments that rely on minimalism to be trendy. Naturally, the usual amenities are available in- cluding at screen TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone, coee/tea set, private bathroom and free wi-. And a design hotel wouldnt be complete without a hot cock- tail bar so head to the 10th oor to have a drink with the beautiful people at the Skyy Bar. A large wellness centre with a swimming pool and steam rooms is also at your disposal.QN-3, Hendrikje Stofelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08 00, www.westcordhotels.nl. 260 rooms (twin and doubles from 119, triples from 179, suites from 385). PHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhh EATING & DRINKING COFFEE MANIA Coee Mania is one of the coolest hot spots in Nieuw- West. The black gold takes central stage here in many dif- ferent ways including the walls, which are decorated with beautiful drawings and interesting trivia about the worlds most popular drink. Seven kinds of coee are on oer and you can also get a cheap breakfast, several home-made soups and a delicious Turkish tosti with spicy sausages, which we cant recommend enough.QN-3, Ottho Hel- dringstraat 3, tel. (+31) 207 60 03 61, www.cofeemania. nl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (4 - 7). TAULGSW EETCAF-TERRAS OOSTOEVER This concrete structure right next to Sloterplas might not seem promising from the outside, but it actually houses one of the best cafs in Nieuw-West and we would even say one of Amsterdams best-kept secrets. This old-fash- ioned caf looks a bit like a brown bar as its decorated with ancient Heineken advertisements, aged photographs and a couple of kitschy paintings. Dusty lampshades and wooden tables add to the cosy atmosphere, but for a truly superb view take a seat on the fantastic terrace. At lunch you can order a toasty or uitsmijter (a sandwich with fried eggs, cheese and ham) and the dinner menu includes a few simple, yet well prepared meat dishes. QN-2, Oos- toever 1, tel. (+31) 206 13 04 92, www.oestoever.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Sat. (13 - 15). NBXW PLATO Although we arent exactly culinary experts like the peo- ple who write the Michelin guide, we dont think that Plato will ever win a top prize for their simple cuisine, but then again, thats never been the goal of its friendly owners. You can, however, enjoy good, wholesome Greek food for a very reasonable price in this cosy restaurant. The outdoor caf, the free aperitif and the sincere, personal service are all Platos main strengths.QM-2, Confuciusplein 12, tel. (+31) 206 13 39 33, www.grieksrestaurantplato.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00. ALGBKX Cocktails at the Skyy Bar in Nieuw-West Autumn 2014 35 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Nieuw-West SKYY BAR On clear days you can see the sea from here but on most evenings the trendy Skyy Bar (their spelling) is a popular haven for stargazers looking for celebrities here on earth. The immediate surroundings of this hotel bar are pure paradise for anyone who wants to catch a glimpse of the fashion world. Whatever your reason for coming here its a good place to visit even if you just want to have a look at the beautiful girls in sexy outts while sipping a cock- tail or some champagne. We recommend the surprisingly aordable porn star martini, which is a tasty drink indeed. QN-3, Hendrikje Stofelsstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08 00, www.skyybar.nl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. AULGW SYRIANA Just as Amsterdam is a melting pot of dierent cultures, so is Syriana. Thousands of Arabs live in this city and its near surroundings, so its a no-brainer that it should have a proper restaurant serving Syrian, Lebanese, Egyptian and Iraqi cuisine, but youll have to travel a ways to nd it. Well give you a hint. Just look for a cheese factory and a wind- mill. An eastern atmosphere prevails here and you can enjoy an Arab-style high tea, water pipes and even belly dancers at the weekend.QAkersluis 8, tel. (+31) 206 69 09 03, www.syriana.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (16 - 21). PTAULGBKX VLLA Its usually fairly straightforward to classify a restaurant or club, but VLLA is an exception to the rule. This cultural ha- ven wears so many hats its hard to describe. Its a Dutch lunchroom, a restaurant, a theatre and a bar and children also havent been forgotten at this former funeral home. Where silence and grief once prevailed, the tunes of up- and-coming bands can be heard in what used to be the morgue. If that sends a chill down your spine just consider the reasonable prices and the currently cosy atmosphere of this renovated space. If it were located in the centre of Berlin VLLA would be an instant success, but in Amster- dam its as yet one of the citys last undiscovered little gems.QN-3, Willem Roelofsstraat 9, tel. (+31) 646 10 82 72, www.vlla.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. T6LENGBKXW Autumn day in Nieuw-West SIGHTSEEING DORPSPLEIN SLOTEN The traditional houses that surround this picturesque square reveal that Sloten was once an independent village before it was absorbed by Amsterdams western expan- sion in the 1950s. The village square is the oldest part of Sloten, its history reaching back as far as the 11th century. Its also home to an ancient water pump and a re alarm from the 1920s. It may also interest you to know that the tiny house just next to the square is the smallest police station in the Netherlands. Some 20m west of the square, on the corner of Sloterweg and Osdorpweg, youll nd the oldest remaining house of the former village. The sign on the house indicates that the building dates from 1692. QM-4, Dorpsplein, tel. (+31) 206 17 45 11. REMBRANDT PARK (REMBRANDTPARK) One of Hollands most famous painters, Rembrandt van Rijn, had a park named after him centuries after his death. This spacious green space is located at the border be- tween the old city and the estates of the 1950s and 1960s. The park is cut in half by the Postjesweg and the many lakes and open elds that surround it create a relaxed and peaceful atmosphere. A great variety of sculpture, a zoo and the best kids playground in Amsterdam are just some of the attractions of this central urban oasis.QN-3, Ortel- iuskade, www.rembrandtpark.org. SLOTEN WINDMILL (MOLEN VAN SLOTEN) Nearly 100 years ago, the Netherlands boasted over 10,000 windmills. Unfortunately, less than 1,000 are left, but sev- eral are still located on the outskirts of Amsterdam. One of the most beautiful ones, Molen van Sloten, is located at a picturesque spot on the edge of Nieuw-West. This type of windmill, called a Stellingmolen, was used to keep the water level low in the neighbouring areas. Its also the only windmill in Amsterdam which is open every day and even the disabled can take a tour of this beautiful build- ing from 1846 by taking the lift to the upper oors. Many couples have also been married at this Amsterdam land- mark.QM-4, Akersluis 10, tel. (+31) 206 69 04 12, www. molenvansloten.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. T SLOTER PARK (SLOTERPARK) The Sloter Park, which measures an impressive 91 hectares, is the largest park in Amsterdam and despite its immense size, its also one of our favourites. This green urban land- scape is best explored by bike, although you can discover some good places on foot as well. Try the popular 5.8km Sloterplas Tour, which takes you through a changing land- scape guaranteed to keep you interested in your surround- ings. The park was created using the excavated top soil of the former Sloterdijkermeer Polder. In the very north west- ern corner is a piece of land which has remained untouched since it was designed in the 1950s and it has gradually de- veloped into the Het Ruige Riet nature reserve. Dog owners in particular cherish this beautiful piece of nature, so watch your step! QM-3, President Allendelaan 3. 36 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery E Live music B Outside seating X Smoking section S Takeaway W Wi For centuries the north section of the city was an area that most Amsterdammers weren't too keen on. It seems that everything unwanted was 'dumped' here, from the gallows in medieval times to the polluting ship building industry much later. Extensive social housing projects attracted large numbers of nancially challenged people exacerbating the stigma that was already attached to Amsterdam's largest administrative district. Today Noord, or simply North, is one of the most vibrant areas of the Dutch capital. More and more people have begun to appreciate the unique merits of this territory beyond the River IJ. With this in mind we've put together a small guide to this interesting urban and ru- ral zone that's usually overlooked by most tourists. All you need to do is to take one of the free ferries behind the Cen- tral Station and 10 minutes later you'll be able to explore Noord and its surroundings. Take a small river cruise on a boat that oers an all-you-can-eat pancake buet, do some cycling in the pristine countryside, bring a towel and swim trunks and take a dip at one of the area's swimming pools or visit a festival and see why Noord has become the siz- zling new hub of Amsterdam's creative community. There are three dierent ferries that will take you over the River IJ in just a few minutes and bring you to Amsterdam-Noord completely free of charge. The departure landing is located just behind the Central Station. ACCOMMODATION From botels and cosy B&Bs to camping and luxury hotels, the north side of the River IJ has plenty to oer. UPMARKET THE FARALDA NDSM CRANE HOTEL AMSTERDAM Crane 13 is a renowned industrial landmark and during its heyday the 300-tonne monument could lift up to 40 tonnes of materials. However, after a complete restora- tion it has a new function as a hotel and TV studio. The rst of its three high-end design suites hovers at a height of 13 metres, but a Jacuzzi oers incredible views of Am- sterdams city centre from a height of 50m. Naturally, all of this luxury comes at a premium, but believe it or not youll have to add your name to a waiting list if youd like to spend the night here.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 78, www. faralda.nl. iAULGW BOTELS AMSTEL BOTEL This ship is safely moored at the NDSM pier. In the past this colossus was a riverboat and most guests spent their time on deck. If you simply need somewhere to crash after a night on the town and youre looking for free parking, this is the place. Small cabins with thin walls and claustrophobic bathrooms come standard at this botel. The lack of luxury and privacy may not be to everyones liking, but if you need relatively cheap accommodation and you dont mind living on the water, book a room at the back where you have a great view of the River IJ. Unfortunately most other rooms face a grey wall.QM-2, NDSM-Pier 3, tel. (+31) 206 26 42 47, www.amstelbotel.nl. 175 rooms (157 doubles 60 - 120, 18 triples 89 - 150). PTALGBKXW BOUTIQUE HOTELS BROOKLYN HOTEL Opened in 2014, this wonderful design hotel is hard to miss as it rises above the other structures on the NDSM wharf that juts out from Amsterdam Noord far into the waters of the River IJ. You can expect exceptional accommodation decorated in neutral brown, beige and grey colours that includes leather furniture, big beds, wireless internet ac- cess, mini-bar and all of the other modern amenities no to mention incredible views. We particularly liked the room where you can shower and look out the oor-to-ceiling glass window.QM-2, NDSM-Plein 28, tel. (+31) 207 22 06 66, www.brooklynhotel.nl. 88 rooms (standard from 89, deluxe rooms from 129). PALKW SWEET DREAMZ Each of the rooms in this quirky boutique hotel have been given common Dutch names. The Maarten & Bas room is the cheapest of the lot at 85/night and with a mint green oor, a yellow bed and a ashy pink duvet, youd be right if you guessed that its popular with same sex couples. Kiki & Joost, a young designer duo from Eindhoven, had the privilege of being the rst guests to stay in this for- mer bank building and were thus honoured with a room named after them. Two bikes are also included in the price. QN-2, Meidoornweg 2, tel. (+31) 204 94 06 84, www. sweetdreamz.nl. JLNGKW One of Noords best attractions - the EYE Film Institute 38 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord BED & BREAKFAST B&B DE NOORDERLING For short stays this cosy garden home located in a quiet residential area of Noord is a good option, but we have to warn you that the rooms are a little cramped. The beds are comfortable and it has its own dining area and a pri- vate terrace, but the toilet and shower are shared. The fully equipped kitchen is also at your disposal should you want to cook dinner, but save some space for the abun- dant breakfast in the morning as the owner is a profes- sional chef and he goes out of his way to please you with his culinary know how.QM-3, Stoombootweg 100, tel. (+31) 206 22 16 70, www.denoordeling.nl. (single 50, double 65). TLGBW B&B DURGERDAM COUNTRYSIDE Durgerdam is a picturesque village only a 30-minutes bike ride from central Amsterdam and this friendly B&B is located at the edge of the village facing the natural beauty of the protected Wetlands. Lots of space and pri- vacy will make you feel at home and you can either stay in the large studio at the back of the owners house or in a separate holiday home in the garden. Both have a private garden next to a wide ditch, which is great if youre travel- ling with kids. Breakfast is served each morning but you can also cook your own meals in the kitchenette.QN-5, Durgerdammergouw 35, tel. (+31) 204 28 66 15, www. bbdurgerdam.nl. 2 rooms (80 - 100). iTLGB DXW B&B HET OUDE DIJKHUIS Located on one of Amsterdams most attractive cycling routes, this spacious apartment can accommodate up to four people. The furnishings are not exactly modern or cosy and could best be described as old fashioned and boring. On the other hand, the friendly owners and the more than reasonable prices make up for the lack of d- cor. The Old Dike House even has a private entrance and a full sized kitchen. It also rents bikes, but you cant take them to the centre of Amsterdam because of the risk of theft.QN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 443, tel. (+31) 204 94 18 42, www.hetoudedijkhuis.nl. 1 apartment (1 person 70, 4 persons 130). TLNGB CAFS Noord is very popular with Amsterdam hipsters, so it will come as no surprise that the area has loads of great cafs. (B)BROOD NDSM Strolling around Amsterdam theres a good chance that youve spotted one of the outlets of this small chain of bakeries. Our favourite of these happens to be the (B) Brood at the ferry terminal of the NDSM-wharf. Three oors have been decorated with a mix of graphic art, bright, splashy colours and an abundance of fresh ow- ers. The rooftop terrace oers great views of the IJ and the Russian submarine thats moored right outside. Downstairs at the counter youll encounter the addictive aroma of freshly baked buns, pastries and bread and we recommend the sandwiches slathered in typically sweet Dutch llings like hagelslag and pindakaas.QN-2, Ms van Riemsdijkweg 30, tel. (+31) 206 33 10 89, www. bbrood.nl. Open 07:45 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 09:45 - 18:00. iTJA6LBXSW CAF DE CEUVEL If you like organic food thats sourced from local eco- friendly farms and dont mind sharing the terrace with what looks like Amsterdams entire population of hipsters, then Caf de Ceuvel is a great place to embrace your in- ner tree-hugger and eat a tasty meal while helping the planet. The funky pavilion is made from upcycled mate- rials including old bollards from Amsterdams port and a lifeguards station, all meals are cooked using local biogas and some of the herbs and vegetables are grown on the roof of the structure. The caf also hosts music concerts, seminars and movie screenings.QM-2, Korte Papav- erweg 4, info@ceuvelcafe.nl, www.cafedeceuvel.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. EB CAFE T SLUISJE This remarkable building is located in one of the most scenic areas of Amsterdam-Noord. At a intersection of age-old water routes that farmers once used to bring their milk to the centre of town by boat, passers-by can now enjoy a cup of coee or a glass of Nobeltje, a liqueur from the island of Ameland. Unfortunately, there arent many sailors left in this historical part of Amsterdam, but apart from that this family-run business is authentic and nostal- gic. The menu on the other hand is completely contem- porary with chic dishes like warm goats cheese salad and smoked salmon with capers. Make sure you get here early, as the large garden and terrace on the dike ll up quickly. QN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 297, tel. (+31) 206 36 17 12, www.hetsluisje.nl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (5 - 8). TGB Youre never far from ships large and small in Noord Hundreds more reviews at amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Autumn 2014 39 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Noord AJAX & NOORD Over the years many districts in Amsterdam have been home to Ajax, the Dutch capitals football giant. Most die- hard fans believe that De Meer, which has now been de- molished, was the best location. On the other hand, the current stadium - the Amsterdam Arena - has become a virtual Mecca for football enthusiasts. That said, few people realise that Amsterdam-North is the true cradle of this world famous club. Footh-Ball Club Ajax - with its original spelling mistake - was forced to leave its playing eld at the end of the Overtoom Road in 1900, because the pitch was to be- come a new neighbourhood of residential homes. The club decided to change its name (dropping the spelling mistake) into Football Club Ajax and rented a pitch on the Middenweg - now called the Hagedoornweg - on an empty polder in Buiksloterham in Amsterdam-North. Amsterdam North became the home turf of Ajax, which was still relatively unknown in the early 20th century. Many supporters still regard the rst pitch in North, lo- cated at what is currently called the Hagedoornweg, the place where it all started. All home games were played on this simple eld. Later Ajax moved to another pitch in North. With this location came creature comforts like changing rooms for the players in what could best be described as a vacant shed. Unfortunately, the location wasnt the best as the players had to walk at least 15 minutes from the ferry landing to the ground. (Photo: Ajax archives) In 1901 Ajax moved again, but this time to the Laanweg, which was much closer to the ferry. Unfortunately it had no changing shed, so the boys had to rough it again. Many supporters loved the adventure of taking the ferry to the home games, as North was considered to be out in the sticks. But once again Ajax left for greener pitches in 1907, due to the building of a new housing estate, which marked the end of Ajaxs adolescence in North. AFC Ajax later reached their full potential at De Meer and the Amsterdam Arena. RESTAURANTS Noord has a little something for everyone from ultra hip ne dining to a boat that serves pancakes. FAST FOOD HARING NAATJE If youre brave enough to try Dutch raw herring for the rst time, theres no better place lose your virginity than at this authentic local sh stall. Its traditional, not only due to its Dutch ag decorations, but also because all of the seafood sold here is fresh and caught in the North Sea. Authentic in this case also means that you shouldnt expect anything more than tasty takeaway snacks. If the thought of raw herring seems to stimulate your gag reex, but youd still like to try some typically Dutch seafood, you could order the kibbeling (deep fried cod) or smoked mackerel.QN- 3, Purmerplein. Open Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (2 - 3). T6S PIETJE FRIETJE In our opinion theres nothing wrong with evening out your cholesterol level after a long day of walking and sightseeing. Pietje Frietje, an old-fashioned snackbar con- veniently located in a grass eld at the corner of Schaaf- straat and the busy Meeuwenlaan, is a good place to start. All of the usual fries, croquettes and other deep fried foods can be enjoyed in the open air, which is precisely what lots of cyclists do while cruising around Amsterdam Noord. QN-3, Meeuwenlaan. (2 - 3). 6BS INDONESIAN PUSPITA Virtually every Indonesian restaurant in Holland is stued full of wooden carvings, authentic wajang dolls and pic- tures of rice elds. Fortunately Puspita is one of the rare exceptions. On the other hand, the interior puts one in mind of a bourgeois Dutch pub with old fashioned chairs and horrible lace curtains. As far as food goes, however, this small restaurant gets top marks and the rice table is brilliant and better than what passes for traditional Indo- nesian cuisine in the centre of town. We recommend the bakso ikan sh soup.QN-3, Purmerplein 5, tel. (+31) 206 36 82 15. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (8 - 15). TLGS Swans on the aptly named Zwanenplein 40 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord INTERNATIONAL BISTRO NOORD After presiding over the super successful Te Pas restaurant in central Amsterdam, the two owner brothers, Hugo and Evert, decided that they needed a bigger space to ful- l their culinary dreams, so they made the logical move across the river to the trendy NDSM wharf in Noord. You can drop by in the morning for breakfast, coee and fresh- ly baked artisanal bread, grab a seat at lunch and try their delicious pulled pork sandwich or have a proper free range beef steak from the island of Texel for dinner. Naturally, the wonderful atrium-style dining hall is also open for drinks until 01:00 every day.QM-2, Mt. Ondinaweg 32, tel. (+31) 207 05 99 06, www.bistronoord.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (6 - 16). A DE SOEPBOER Given its unusual name, the Soup Farmer, it comes as no surprise that this place specialises in liquid lunches also known as soups. Only local, seasonal ingredients are used, but youll nd a wide variety of international recipes here from Russian borscht and Tuscan shepherds stew to hearty Georgian harcho soup. You can also try a number of fresh pastries and salads and all of the food it serves can also be bought as takeaway.QN-2, Van der Pekstraat 93, tel. (+31) 203 54 15 64, www.desoepboer.nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. The restaurant is closed each summer for one month. (4 - 8). TBS EYE BAR-RESTAURANT This restaurant is located inside the impressive EYE lm in- stitute. The terrace provides incredible views of the River IJ and the wait sta are friendly and attentive, but the food isnt as impressive as the building in which this establish- ment is housed. Although the homemade croquettes are really delicious. The EYE Bar-Restaurant is in fact more of a restaurant than a bar, although wed feel more comfortable recommending it as a good place to have a beer or a cock- tail. In any case, even if youre not planning to eat or drink here, the modern building in the shape of an eye is worth a visit.QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 02, www. eyebarrestaurant.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:30. (10 - 15). PTJAULBXW RESTAURANT DE SMEDERIJ The Forge is part of the adjoining Brooklyn boutique hotel on the NDSM wharf, which has become a haven for artists, hipsters and creative types in Amsterdam. The small, yet rened menu oers a little something for everyone from what the owners refer to as timeless dishes like gourmet burgers, club sandwiches and past pesto to vegetarian cuisine, seafood or meat like lamb and veal cooked on a hot lava rock. Two and three-course chefs specials are also available. The interior oers dark autumnal tones and a modern replace, but if the weathers good you can sit outside on the terrace.QM-2, NDSM-PLein 30, tel. (+31) 207 22 06 60, www.restaurant-desmederij.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (12 - 24). AIBW VERONICASCHIP As the name would suggest, this restaurant, caf and live music venue is hidden aboard a ship named Veronica, which is conveniently moored at the NDSM-Pier. You can stop by for a cup of coee, a beer and some snacks or a proper lunch. The chefs specialise in Dutch and interna- tional cuisine, but you can also just enjoy a sunset over the River IJ with a glass of wine or Champagne. The ves- sel is also available for weddings and special events.QM- 2, NDSM-Pier 1, tel. (+31) 203 70 71 42, veronicaschip. info@gmail.com, veronicazendschip.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. B WILHELMINA-DOK If youd like to admire one of the most beautiful views of Amsterdam by night, you should reserve a table next to the large windows of this restaurant that looks like someones living room. That said, the wide terrace is also an ideal spot to have a cocktail or a cool white beer (the Secret of the Smit) with some snacks or small dishes like roasted pumpkin and outstanding goats cheese. Sadly, the main courses arent as good as the appetisers, but did we mention that Wilhelmina-Dok has incredible views?QN-2, Noordwal 1, tel. (+31) 206 32 37 01, www. wilhelmina-dok.nl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (16 - 18). TAULBKW NEPALESE MT. EVEREST The Nepalese are among the most hospitable people in Asia and this holds true for the sta of this genuine Nepalese restaurant. Anyone whos ever visited the Hi- malayas will realise that only a handful of the spicy dishes on the are suitable for the western palates. Try delicious thalis and curries or the kukhura ko masu (with chicken bones) and wash it down with a refreshing Gurkha, the dark beer enjoyed by some of the worlds best trained soldiers. The dcor of Mt. Everest is typically Nepalese and the room is decorated with hundreds of colourful prayer ags, pictures of the highest mountain in the world and loads of burning candles.QN-2, Spreeuwen- park 3, tel. (+31) 206 32 60 55, www.mteverest.nl. Open 15:00 - 22:30. TLGS Sunset view from the EYE Bar-Restaurant Autumn 2014 41 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Noord NIGHTLIFE Nothing can beat central Amsterdam for nightlife, but if youre looking for a laid back local pub devoid of tourists, Noord might be the place for you. CAFE DE MAZZEL Situated in the heart of a blue collar district, this bar of- fers nothing exciting in terms of design. Its just a good place for a cold beer and the most delicious bitterballs in Amsterdam-Noord. In our opinion, thats already enough reason to visit this simple bar. The pool table and the dart- board also seem to keep the regulars happy.QL-2, Sten- torstraat 5, tel. (+31) 206 33 70 51. Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. L CAFE KOFFIEHUIS DE POMP Ever wanted to play a game of pool with a construction worker, a white collar worker or a confused artist? This is your chance. Located in a multicultural and heavily indus- trialised area, its not easy to nd De Pomp, but as soon as you enter, the friendly sta will make you feel at home. QN-2, Grasweg 3-A, tel. (+31) 206 34 32 27. CAFE OT EN SIEN Entire generations of Amsterdammers have grown up here at one of the Noords oldest and most famous pubs. But even if the crowds have thinned out over the years, its friendly owner is always up for a chat and will keep you occupied with plenty of brews on draught or in bottles. QN-2, Buiksloterweg 27, tel. (+31) 206 36 82 33, www. otensien.nl. CAFE T EITJE If there were prize for the ugliest bar exterior, Cafe t Eitje would be a strong contender. Thats also the reason why youll be so astonished by the classic interior, which fea- tures three dart boards and a pool table. In fact, a local dart club plays its matches at this friendly establishment and despite the unattractive location it can get quite busy here. Cafe t Eitje literally translates as Cafe the Egg and its located right next to Cafetaria de Kip, which means Cafeteria the Chicken. For a moment we wondered which of the two came rst, but we decided to leave this age-old question alone.QN-3, Motorwal 280, tel. (+31) 206 34 17 38, www.cafeteitje.nl. G PANCAKES DE PANNEKOEKENBOOT This oating double-decker doesnt follow the usual ring of canals, but takes you past all of the architectural mas- terpieces of Amsterdam North instead. But most of the people on board probably couldnt care less where the boats headed as their focus is on the enormous servings of pancakes on oer. The main draw of this oating food factory is the all-you-can-eat pancake meal. Bon voyage and bon apptit!QM-2, Ms. van Riemsdijkweg, tel. (+31) 206 36 88 17, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Tours begin at 13:30, 16:30 and 18:00 and cost as low as 10 depend- ing on the tour. Closed Mon, Tue. TALGB SEAFOOD STORK Even though Amsterdams largest seafood restaurant opened as recently as 2011, Stork already enjoys quite a large and loyal following. Classic dishes like oysters, sword- sh, sea bass, lobster and all kinds of other delicacies from the aquatic world are given a new dimension here and the industrial furnishings add to its potential. The lighting from the large windows is beautiful and almost artistic and the massive outdoor terrace is super trendy. Unfortunately, at times the waiters seem to get lost in this enormous space, which may mean that your delicious oven-baked dish might need a re-heat.QN-3, Gedempt Hamerkanaal t/o 96, tel. (+31) 206 34 40 00, www.restaurantstork.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. (19 - 23). TA6LBXW STEAKS LOETJE AAN HET IJ Located in the heart of a brand new yacht marina, this futuristic building has been transformed into an elegant eatery by a popular chain of Dutch steakhouses. A giant terrace on a wooden platform oers views of the river and an excellent place to tuck into a juicy sirloin or t-bone. QM-1, Werfkade 14, loetjeaantij.loetje.com. PT JALBXW TURKISH ELMAS There are exactly 110 dishes listed on the menu at Elmas, a modern Turkish restaurant in a multicultural neighbour- hood that oers the best cuisine the Anatolian peninsula has to oer. Luckily the menus neatly ordered, so its easy to nd your favourites among the many options. The only typically Turkish elements found here are the large num- ber of plates depicting well-known towns east of the Bos- porus, which adorn the walls. Elmas is also a good option for a big breakfast before a day of sightseeing in Noord and a daily all-you-can-eat buet for 6.50 is available till noon.QN-2, Spreeuwenpark 1, tel. (+31) 206 36 33 29, www.restaurantelmas.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. (9 - 15). iTJALBXS Great views and lots of pancakes on the Pannekoekenboot 42 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord SIGHTSEEING Fancy a day spent picnicking in a park or wandering around a sculpture garden? Curious why Amsterdam Noord has only one ocial museum? Read on. BUILDINGS & ARCHITECTURE OLD POLICE STATION The roof alone is reason enough to visit Noords very rst police station, which was built in 1915. This classic wooden building is a unique example of Amsterdam School archi- tecture. The use of timber in this style of architecture is in- credibly rare as the designers almost always chose to work with brick and with remarkable results. In this particular example the roof and its impressive chimney are the focal points of the building that give the amboyant structure its unusual appearance. In fact, the bases of the chimneys are not built of stone, but zinc. The so-called Old Police Station is now a private residence.QN-2, Buiksloterweg. THE GREEN DRAGON (DE GROENE DRAECK) The old dutch name De Groene Draeck (The Green Dragon) is derived from the historic at-bottomed yacht used by the Dutch royal family. Its located on the prem- ises of the former shipyard owned by a famous family of shipbuilders where the rst polyester yachts in the Neth- erlands were designed and constructed. Today, the build- ing is home to a variety of young and dynamic companies. QM-2, Grasweg. VAN DER PEKBUURT The Van der Pek neighbourhood is probably the best example of the genuine old Amsterdam-Noord, which is now emerging as a popular place to live due to recent renovations. Although a stone house with a garden in the middle of a city seems like a rather standard situation to- day, a 100 years ago this denitely wasnt the case. On the pretext of creating a green environment for every worker in the rapidly expanding shipbuilding industry, small gar- den villages were built by the city. The tiny one-storey homes with private gardens are now once again in de- mand and the neigbourhood is a perfect place for cyclists. QN-2, Van der Pekstraat. WOODEN HOUSES Although most of the standard guidebooks are quick to point out that Amsterdam has only two wooden houses left, thats denitely not the case. Unfortunately, these so-called travel writers never made it to the other side of the River IJ, an indivisible part of the Dutch capital where more than 160 classic wooden homes still remain. Bundled together in little photogenic streets alongside picturesque dikes like the Buiksloterdijk, Schellingwouderdijk and the beautiful Nieuwendammerdijk, all are easily accessible by bike. Most of these forgotten testaments to an Amsterdam nearly lost were built in the 17th and 19th centuries, the two eras in which the dikes ourished.QM-3, Nieuwendammerdijk. CHURCHES BUIKSLOTERKERK The Buiksloterkerk was built at a time when religion was still part of nearly everyones daily life. Since 1710 this huge building has been located in this pastoral setting, which is a testament to the areas rural past. Another church exist- ed on the same spot prior to the construction of this house of worship, but today the church functions as a venue for various cultural events.QM-2, Buiksloterkerkpad 10, www.buiksloterkerk.nl. KERK ZUNDERDORP If someone ever organises a competition for the Most Beautiful Church in the Netherlands, this white-brown building will be a strong contender if not for its architec- tural splendour, then at least for its idyllic location. This place is remarkably quiet, although the bleating sheep and clucking chickens nearby create a very Dutch atmo- sphere. But a plaque commemorating World War II victims and the bricked up windows hint that this place hasnt al- ways been so peaceful. If youd like to enjoy this beautiful spot permanently, its possible to reserve a space under the poplars and chestnut trees in the cemetery. Services are held every Sunday morning at 10:00.QM-4, Achter- laan 20, Zunderdorp, www.kerkzunderdorp.nl. MUSEUMS AMSTERDAM NORTH MUSEUM There are over 40 museums in Amsterdam, yet theres only one in Noord. Even though the history of Amsterdam North stretches back much further than that of the settlement on the other side of the River IJ, Amsterdams largest district didnt get its own museum until 2009. Located in the former public baths of the Vogeldorp, one of the characteristic gar- den cities of Noord, the museum tells the interesting story of this part of the capital. The museum also oers plenty of maps for guided or independent walking and cycling tours that will help you explore the attractions of North and its surrounding wetlands. An exhibition on a changing part of the history of Amsterdam North is held every three months. QN-3, Zamenhofstraat 28a, tel. (+31) 630 97 56 02, www. museumamsterdamnoord.nl. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 4. TLG The Green Dragon in Noord Autumn 2014 43 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Noord PLACES OF INTEREST DURGERDAM After about half an hour of cycling through Noord, your pedalling will be rewarded by the sight of one of the most beautiful villages in the region. Durgerdam is a tiny hamlet on the shores of the IJsselmeer, where you can view some traditional wooden houses, a Protestant church dating from 1687 and a landscape of wetlands and polders. Another attraction is Durg- erdams marina, where you can gaze at luxurious yachts and envy the peo- ple entering the private sailing club. Historically, the village was closely linked with the former Zuiderzee (now IJsselmeer) and for centuries the Durgerdammers worked in shipping, shing and trade in general. Today, its the quiet and the beauty of the water that attracts visitors to this lovely little settlement.QN-5, Durgerdam. EYE FILM INSTITUTE EYE is the only institute in the Netherlands that collects and displays lm-related ephemera like photographs, posters, soundtracks, equipment and directors archives. Its collection spans the entire length of lm history from silent lms to the newest digital productions. Every year the collection expands as more lms, Dutch and foreign, new and old, are added. Although it was once housed in the Vondel Park, it has moved to its new ultra-modern building in Amsterdam North and has quickly become the star of the docks. Called the heart of lm, the huge white spaces covering over 1200m2 provide numerous interactive and educational lm projects, while four the- atres each dierent in size and theme bring you the latest art-house lms and old classics. Many people take the free ferry here for the gorgeous view from its caf and outdoor terraces. Who knew that the Central Sta- tion could look that pretty from afar? Especially at night. QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 00, www. eyeflm.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:15. TJAULGBKXW MARITIME QUARTER What do boats like the Pollux, a magnicent steel three- masted schooner, the Amstel Botel, a former riverboat cruise ship that was transformed into a 3-star hotel, and the Sirius, a famous Greenpeace ship, have in common? Nothing, despite the fact that theyre all moored adjacent to the NDSM shipyard in the Maritime Quarter, a striking collection of ships and buildings situated around a long jetty. Other impressive vessels include the red Irish light- ship Finley that attracts cultural party-goers from around the city, the old Russian submarine and the wooden Mahu M880 minesweeper. Right next to the ferry is the platform for De Pannenkoekenboot (Pancake Boat) where hungry diners can enjoy a cruise and an all-you-can-eat pancake experience.QN-4, NDSM-Pier. NDSM-WERF (NDSM SHIPYARD) An excursion just west of the NDSM shipyard is a must for anyone with a taste for modern architecture. For 60 years a massive shipping industry called the NDSM-ship- yard wharf home. Countless vessels left these legendary wharves, a part of the Dutch seafaring tradition that had lasted for centuries and made Amsterdam one of the planets economic powerhouses. But nothing lasts forever and the shipping industry suered greatly during the eco- nomic recession of the 1970s, which had a profound eect on Amsterdam-Noord and its residents. In 1984, the ship- yard nally closed its doors, but the misery caused by un- employment and the loss of a proud livelihood sowed the seeds of todays rebirth. The shipyard has been converted into a cultural venue that has become one of Amsterdams hottest entertainment centres. Concerts, festivals and the- atre are held amid a landscape of monumental industrial buildings.QM-2, NDSM-werf. STATUES & MONUMENTS ATATRK MONUMENT Turkish guest workers have played an important role in the economic rebuilding of the Dutch nation which began in the 1960s. They moved to the Netherlands in droves to do the work that most Dutch people didnt want to do. Dur- ing the rst few years of the programme many lived here in a residential area dotted with white wooden houses where an abstract monument to Kemal Atatrk (Father of Turks), founder of modern day Turkey and rst president of the Turkish Republic, was erected in 1978. A copper plaque is inscribed with the following text in Dutch and Turkish: Peace at home, peace in the world.QM-2, Ataturk. THE BUTTON (DE KNOOP) The Button is one of the most celebrated works by de- ceased artist Andr Volten (2002). Inspired by the indus- trial environment of Noord, the ex-welder specialised in creating large brass and stainless steel objects. Whenever he had the time he would experiment with materials he found in the former shipyard. Although this steel giant seems to be a simple piece of art, a closer look will reveal a work full of depth.QM-2, Grasweg. Submarine at Noords Maritime Quarter 44 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Noord SPORTS & LEISURE 9 GHOLES VOETGOLF AMSTERDAM Leave it to the Dutch to come up with a new way to utilise farmland. 9 Gholes is essentially a 9-hole golf course just outside of Zunderdorp, but for football enthusiasts. Instead of a club and a small ball, participants kick footballs from one hole to the next while trying to avoid obstacles along the way. You can also order lunch, snacks and drinks as part of the experience.QM-4, Broekergouw 2, tel. (+31) 619 23 43 03/(+31) 628 97 44 38, www.9gholes.nl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. MSTERDAM MARINA This beautiful harbour, which opened in 2013, oers slips for 350 sailing vessels. As long as your home on the water is between 7 and 30 metres long you can drop anchor at this historic harbour where huge ships have been built for cen- turies. Extras like free internet and a good steakhouse on the premises are a couple more reasons to choose mster- dam Marina as your home away from home.QM-1, Wer- fkade 4, tel. (+31) 206 31 07 67, www.amsterdammarina. com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. JALKW NOORD FOR KIDS PIRATES TOUR Children can also be adventurous and search this wetlands area for real treasure. Up to ve children and one adult can take a rowboat and look for clues until they nd the pot of gold. QKanaaldijk 32a, Landsmeer, tel. (+31) 880 06 44 55, www.landschapnoordholland.nl/Piratentocht. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (20/boat for 2 hours). The picturesque lock at Nieuwendam Autumn 2014 45 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Noord SHOPPING BEEKHOVEN BIKES This huge bike shop has been selling all manner of bicycles and accessories for over 25 years. It also specialises in rac- ing and electric bikes.QM-2, Draaierweg 16, tel. (+31) 206 31 71 20, www.beekhovenbikes.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A BLOM&BLOM The two Blom brothers, Kamiel and Martijn, have a passion for old industrial relics that most people see as junk. They restore or repurpose these forgotten artefacts and create incredibly stylish lighting xtures and furniture, which you can buy at their showroom in Amsterdam Noord.QM-2, Chrysantenstraat 20A, tel. (+31) 207 37 26 91, hello@ blomandblom.com, blomandblom.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. KASTINO MOLENWIJK Kastino oers a huge selection of cheeses including or- ganic brands by local producers.QL-2, Molenwijk 29, tel. (+31) 206 33 01 09, www.kastino.nl. Open 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A KERAMIEK ATELIER MARJOKE DE HEER If youre interested in ceramics you can watch the artist at work here or have a look at the gallery of nished prod- ucts. The gallery is open on weekends or by appointment. QN-4, Schellingwouderdijk 243, tel. (+31) 204 90 49 39, www.marjokedeheer.com. Open Fri 13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. A LANDMARKT AMSTERDAM Local organic farmers and horticulturists sell their pro- duce to Landmarkt. This spacious indoor hall is heaven on earth for foodies and anyone who appreciates fresh food, but unlike similar organic markets the bread, meat, sh, vegetables and other daily necessities are hardly more expensive than the stu youll get at a regular shop. QN- 4, Schellingwouderdijk 339, www.landmarkt.nl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. TAULG NEEF LOUIS Find vintage furniture, designer chairs and lots of industrial lamps in this enormous warehouse. Although you can nd some real gemse, dont expect to nd any bargains.QM-2, Papaverweg 46, tel. (+31) 204 86 93 54, www.neefouis. nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 46 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Oost Amsterdam East, or simply Oost (pronounced oast), is an incredibly diverse district of the Dutch capital that encom- passes neighbourhoods that couldnt be more dierent from one another. The recently built IJburg island, which is still under construction, is a largely residential area that is home to modern architecture, a main street called IJburg- laan lled with cafs and shops and a public beach only minutes from the city centre, while the areas known as Indische Buurt and Dapperbuurt in the Zeeburg district are populated by immigrants, students and an increasing number of auent Amsterdammers who enjoy its diverse dining scene. Dapperbuurt hosts a huge market on one of the few streets in the region not named after an Indonesian island and is the ideal locale to try a Moroccan cookie or a real Turkish kebab. The KNSM and Java islands in the East- ern Docklands of the city once supported a huge working harbour, but are now mostly home to auent Amsterdam- mers. Finally, a trip to Oost wouldnt be complete without a visit to one of the trendy cafs on Linnaeusstraat by the Oosterpark or the authentic pubs of the Watergraafsmeer around Middenweg. ARRIVING IN OOST Most of Amsterdam East can be easily reached by public transport. To visit IJburg take tram No.26 from the Central Station. For Indische Buurt, Dapperbuurt, Flevopark and Watergraafsmeer take trams No.7 or 14 from Leidseplein. For KSNM and Java islands take tram No.10 to the last stop. ACCOMMODATION LLOYD HOTEL The hotel has a unique concept as it oers rooms of vary- ing styles and levels of comfort for guests of all tax brack- ets. Stay in a ve-star suite with loads of space, a huge bathtub and a grand piano or choose a Spartan, yet chic room with a bed, table, water view and shared bathrooms and toilets in the corridor. A restaurant, bar, conference rooms, a library and free wireless internet access are also at your disposal in the Eastern Docklands of Amsterdam. QP-1, Oostelijke Handelskade 34, tel. (+31) 205 61 36 36, www.lloydhotel.com. 117 rooms (117 doubles 80 - 300). THA6LGBKW hhh STAYOKAY AMSTERDAM ZEEBURG This colossal brick building complete with clock tower was once a technical school, but since 2007 has been one of the largest and most modern hostels in Amsterdam. Its 500 beds are spread throughout its doubles, quads and six-bed dorm rooms all of which include a Spartan interior with an orange and grey colour scheme, new metal bunk beds, a sink and a separate shower and toilet. Security isnt a prob- lem as guests can only access the corridor where their own room is located, but unfortunately youll have to stow your important gear in lockers on the ground oor. QP-2, Ti- morplein 21, tel. (+31) 205 51 31 90, www.stayokay.com. 500 beds (beds in six-bed dorms from 9, beds in four- bed dorms from 11). HAUGBKW FOOD & DRINK BADHUIS JAVAPLEIN This is one of the coolest bar/restaurants youll nd in East Amsterdam. Opened as a public bathhouse in 1942, it was nally closed in 1980s when it apparently became more common for locals to bathe in their own homes. Today its hip design attracts fans of good style as well as good food and drink and its patrons can enjoy lunch and din- ner not to mention tasty cocktails and uncommon beers like Texels and Jopen. The seats by the replace are highly coveted in the winter, while the purple tables and chairs sandwiched between ivy-covered columns on the ter- race are always full on sunny days.QP-2, Javaplein 21, tel. (+31) 206 65 12 26, www.badhuis-javaplein.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (6 - 17). IBW CAF KUIJPER At the weekend its pretty much standing room only at Caf Kuijper where the music can scarcely be heard above the din of boisterous conversations energised by great draught brews from the IJ, Jopen and Texels breweries. If the crowds bring out your inner claustrophobia then go for a smoke or some fresh air out on the terrace. The fea- tures of the interior that stand out most would have to be the blue oral tiles, the strange, metallic lamps dangling from chains above the bar and a huge map of Amsterdam on the wall in the back, not to mention the golden palm trees. QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 79, tel. (+31) 206 65 19 26, www.cafekuijper.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (5 - 10). AB DE BIERTUIN If for some reason you cant seem to make it to the IJ brew- ery for a tasting, then drop by the Beer Garden, which serves a number of brews from Amsterdams famous brewery on draught and in bottles. Other tasty oerings include beers by Texels and other brewers from the Benelux region and all of them are poured in a bright and airy space that is nearly always laden with the perfume of roasting chickens that ro- tate on spits next to the bar. This is, of course, its speciality and a bargain at just under 14. Note the bars slogan God save the beer in large letters.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 29, tel. (+31) 206 65 09 56, www.debiertuin.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB A day in the park on IJburg island in Oost M.Zaprauskis Autumn 2014 47 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Oost DE PONTENEUR Unlike many restaurants in the Dutch capital, this one has an abundance of space and incredibly high ceilings con- founding the notion that Amsterdam cafs have to be claustrophobic. The rened menu is creative and oers such delicacies as lamb tournedos and homemade wild boar pate. A large reading table is available as well plenty of toys and games for the kids and live music is played ev- ery second Sunday of the month. Aordable daily specials are listed on the blackboard above the open-plan kitchen and a great selection of beer is also available.QP-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat 581, tel. (+31) 206 68 06 80, www. ponteneur.nl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (12 - 15). ABW DE YSBREEKER This popular space underwent a huge renovation in 2010 and today its dicult to categorise. Its a caf, a cocktail lounge, a reading room, a bar and a proper restaurant all in one. You can enjoy fresh oysters on the terrace over- looking the Amstel, sip an espresso inside while surng the net or order tasty international cuisine in the evening with friends. The incredible interior of high vaulted ceil- ings, stained glass, hardwood oors and huge windows is impressive and the selection of local Amsterdam brews in bottles by t IJ and De Prael keeps us coming back for more.QO-2, Weesperzijde 23, tel. (+31) 204 68 18 08, www.deysbreeker.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (8 - 20). AB LUDWIG COFFEE BAR Although many eating and drinking establishments on this street are either fast food joints or ethnic cafs, Lud- wig has a trendy, modern feel to it and could easily hold its own in Amsterdams more fashionable city centre. Wide wooden benches, coee brown walls covered in photos and a watercolour of a civet cat, leather chairs and indus- trial-style lamps hanging from incredibly high ceilings all make this a pleasant place for an excellent cappuccino and a slice of carrot cake or maybe a goat cheese panini. The sta is also friendly and attentive and an outdoor terrace is available in the summer.QP-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat 547, tel. (+31) 646 41 80 31, www.ludwig-cofeebar.nl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ABW POMPSTATION If youre looking for a hip eatery in Oost, youll nd few better places than Pompstation. Although not exactly a traditional steak house, it does oer an extensive menu of meat dishes including a whole kilos woth of Cote de Boeuf and a dry aged Hereford from Uruguay. Naturally, these extraordinary slabs of beef come with a consider- ably higher price tag, but the unbeatable ambience is also included in the bill. The Pump Station is in fact a fully func- tioning industrial monument dating back to 1920, which is worth a visit for its unique interior alone.QP-2, Zeeburg- erdijk 53, tel. (+31) 206 92 28 88, www.pompstation.nu. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (19 - 25). TALGBKW SIGHTSEEING DAPPERSTRAAT MARKET (DAPPERMARKT) This neighbourhood market in Amsterdam East has been bringing a diverse community together since 1910. One of the oldest markets in the city, the Dappermarkt oers hun- dreds of street stalls run by a wide variety of merchants speaking languages from around the globe, from Morocco and Turkey to Suriname. Although not exactly the place to nd that ideal kitschy souvenir, this authentic market- place sells all manner of household goods, cheap clothing, second-hand fashion, fresh produce and local specialities like smoked sh and traditional herring. It was also voted the best market in the Netherlands in 2006 and 2007.QP- 2, Dapperstraat, www.dappermarkt.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun. T NIEUWE DIEP DISTILLERY Located in a renovated pumping station on the water near the entrance to the Flevopark, this small distillery is partly owned by former archaeologist Kees Filius who has a passion for the Dutch tradition of distilling spirits. Disap- pointed that many of the mainstream Dutch distillers had forsaken the ancient art of distilling that had been prac- ticed during Hollands golden age, he and his business partner decided to create their own jenevers, bitters, eau de vie, liqueurs and fruit jenevers according to long for- gotten recipes that were unearthed from old books and documents. After years of trial and error the t Nieuwe Diep Distillery now produces roughly 100 of its own spir- its made in small batches at this wonderful and historic location where even Rembrandt once painted its sub- lime view. A tour of the facilities is available every Friday at 16:00, but you can visit its tasting room on weekdays and sample the goods for yourself or buy a bottle to bring home as the perfect Amsterdam souvenir. This is a truly unique local experience that should not be missed.QP-2, Flevopark 13, tel. (+31) 204 65 02 22, www.nwediep.nl. Tasting room: open May - September 15:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, closed Mon; October - April 15:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. Distillery tour every Friday at 16:00. B Take a stroll through the Dapper Market in Amsterdam East 48 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com West Amsterdam West is both a residential and commercial dis- trict of the city sandwiched between four parks, the Vondel Park, Rembrandt Park, Erasmus Park and Westerpark, so youre never far away from a green space for a picnic, some good cycling or just a relaxing time spent on a patch of grass. The area around Overtoom is legendary for its restau- rants that serve anything from Ethiopian to Iranian cuisine, not to mention its numerous shops, many of which special- ise in cutting-edge interior design items for homes and of- ces. Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat and Bilderdijkstraat are also home to cosy cafs and pubs, while the Wester- gasfabriek in the north of the district is a former industrial estate that has been converted into a creative cultural park full of galleries, clubs and restaurants - an absolute must- see in West! ARRIVING IN WEST Amsterdam West is right next to the city centre, so if you dont mind a brisk walk you can get there on foot from the Central Station in about 30 - 45 minutes. Of course, not everyone wants to drag their luggage around town, so just take tram No.1 to reach Overtoom. For De Clercqstraat and Admiraal De Ruijterweg take tram No.13. For the Wester- park and Westergasfabriek take bus No.22 from the station to the last stop Spaarndammerbuurt and then walk the rest of the way. ACCOMMODATION CONSCIOUS HOTEL VONDELPARK Located near Amsterdams favourite urban oasis, the Von- del Park, this hotel attempts to be as green and sustainable as possible without sacricing the important things in life, namely style and luxury. The hotel claims to be more hip than hippy and once youve seen the designer accommo- dation youll most likely agree with this description. While all of the beds are made from natural materials, if you choose one of the premium rooms youll also get an ergonomic coconut bre mattress as well as an iPod docking station. All rooms are equipped with at screen TVs, writing desks, private bathrooms with showers and free wi-.QS-4, Over- toom 519, tel. (+31) 208 20 33 33, www.conscioushotels. com. 81 rooms (standard from 109, premium from 119, family from 152). PAW hhh FOOD & DRINK DAAR BAAND This wonderful Iranian restaurant is absolutely littered with Persian nick-nacks making it dicult not to let your eyes roam about the place. Paintings of long-gone noblemen (and -women) and scenes from ancient Persepolis cover the walls while authentic music sets the tone for an evening you wont forget. Try delicious lamb kebabs, a host of vegetarian dishes or do as we did and order the mahiche (lamb stew with baked apricots, spicy potatoes and mixed vegetables). We also cracked a smile when we noticed that cognac and calvados were listed under desserts on the menu. You can also smoke a shisha for only 8!QS-4, Overtoom 350, tel. (+31) 206 18 54 81, www.irandaarbaand.nl. Open 17:00 - 24:00. (14 - 18). ABX DOSA Although this authentic restaurant serves familiar tan- doori, biryani and curry dishes, it also claims to be the only place in town to serve South Indian dosa a kind of pancake made of rice and lentil our stued with all kinds of llings. It also specialises in a wide variety of vegetarian cuisine, but you can also order plenty of lamb, chicken and seafood in this elegant space decorated with wood carv- ings. We particularly enjoyed the mild and creamy Goa- style king prawns.QS-4, Overtoom 146, tel. (+31) 206 16 48 38, www.dosaindianrestaurant.nl. Open 16:00 - 23:30. (13 - 18). VS PACIFIC PARC Although located in a huge space in a renovated factory, this place manages to pull o a Pacic luau theme with sh lamps, an indoor barbecue pit, tiki-style furniture and a colourful chandelier about the size of a Volkswagen. Dur- ing the day its a good place to hang out with the family, especially at the picnic tables outside, but in the evening its best to leave the little ones at home as Pacic Parc becomes a club with live DJs and dancing. You can order standard salads and sandwiches for lunch and full meals for dinner, but dont expect any Polynesian staples.QS-2, Polonceaukade 23 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 204 88 77 78, www.pacifcparc.nl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (6 - 15). AB RANARA Its no mirage. The lonely brick building at the far end of the Westergasfabriek is a cosy oasis from the otherwise bland surroundings of empty space on and boring residen- tial housing blocks. Let the aroma of North African spices emanating from the open-plan kitchen lure you inside for a culinary experience you wont soon forget. Although you can try traditional tagines as main courses, you might get a broader introduction to this exotic cuisine by ordering the chefs special mezze menu that includes ve dierent dishes. In the summer you can also sit outside on carpets and enjoy a mint tea in the sun.QS-2, Polonceaukade 40 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 204 86 71 09, www.rainarai. nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (20). B Outstanding coee and architecture in West Autumn 2014 49 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket West NIGHTLIFE GOLLEMS PROEFLOKAAL This is the last of the iconic Gollem beer bars still in op- eration, but the bartender did hint that its other former locations in the city centre would eventually re-open, so keep your ngers crossed. In the meantime you can take a 10-minute tram ride from the Central Station (tram Nr.1) to this shrine dedicated to beer. If they dont have your favou- rite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that Gollem has it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar. Dutch snacks can also be had as well as some daily specials writ- ten on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches over all the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the shelves of glasses.QS-4, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel. (+31) 206 12 94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. AB VIBES Vibes is a pleasant exception to the rule that cocktail bars in Amsterdam have to be pretentious and expensive. Owner Marco has followed his own vision rather than us- ing a snazzy advertising agency to shape his brainchild. The result is a colourful mix of modern and trendy styles and drinks for an average of about 6, which is cheap, by local standards anyway. The selection of almost 30 cocktails oers something for everyone, but we recom- mend the Good Vibes.QS-4, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 137, tel. (+31) 207 89 52 09, www.wix.com/vibes137/vibes. Open 10:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 03:00. LEN WESTERUNIE The Westergasfabriek isnt your standard Amsterdam club located near another touristy square. Located next to the green Westerpark just outside the city centre, this mas- sive culture and entertainment complex spans several former factories from the 19th century, with multi-oored industrial spaces of over 2500 square metres. You can nd a party for every audience including popular music festivals such as Pitch (in July), house fests like Straf-werk and queer-friendly Funhouse parties. Try not to get lost in the maze that is the WesterUnie building. The cool people who hang out here would enjoy that too much. QS-2, Klnnenplein 4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206 84 84 96, www. westerunie.nl. AB SIGHTSEEING HET SCHIP MUSEUM One of the crowning achievements of Amsterdam School architecture, this unusual building was erected in 1919 as proof that aordable working-class housing could not only be functional, but stylish. The historic edice is still inhabited today, so you have to take a guided tour of the museum, which begins at a former post oce decorated with funky tile work characteristic of this Dutch design movement. Guides will lead you around the building pointing out interesting features like the bay window that looks like a cigar, little windmills on the faade that sym- bolise the rural workers who came to work in the citys fac- tories and the iconic tower, which is meant to be a beacon of socialism. You can also view an apartment that looks as it did in the early 20th century and take in an exhibit dedicated to Amsterdam School architecture and its most renowned adherents.QS-2, Spaarndammerplantsoen 140, tel. (+31) 204 75 09 24, www.hetschip.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 7.50. A SHOPPING BRITISH GENERAL STORES This place stocks a massive range of genuine British good- ies including HP sauce, Heinz baked beans, Jelly Babies and great English sausages. If shes not too busy, the own- er is usually happy to have a cup of tea with her customers. QS-4, Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 94, tel. (+31) 206 83 61 91, www.britishstore.nl. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA FRIDAY NEXT Its both an interior design shop and a caf all in one so you can drink a peppermint tea while perusing hand bags, couches and lamps.QT-4, Overtoom 31, tel. (+31) 206 12 32 92, www.fridaynext.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. AKW HIP WONEN The name Hip Living says it all. Youll nd truly fashionable furniture and home accessories here.QS-4, Overtoom 412, tel. (+31) 206 16 13 00, www.hipwonen.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. A MARQT This posh supermarket oers an excellent selection of fresh produce including lots of organic food, but remem- ber to bring your plastic as Marqt doesnt accept cash.QT- 4, Overtoom 21, tel. (+31) 204 22 63 11, www.marqt. com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. AS RETRO IN- & OUTSTYLES This vintage shop is crammed to the rafters with second- hand overcoats, dresses, sweaters, scarves and even bridal accessories.QS-4, 2e Constantijn Huijgensstraat 57, tel. (+31) 206 83 41 80, www.retrostyles.nl. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Historic apartment at Het Schip Museum M.Zaprauskis 50 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Zuid Amsterdam Zuid, or South, is perhaps best known for its large concentration of superb museums, which is the rea- son so many hotels are also located here. It will come as no surprise then that the citys very own Rodeo Drive, P.C. Hooftstraat, which is occupied by brands such as Bulgari, Vuiton and Chanel, is surrounded by 4- and 5-star ac- commodation in Zuid. Just east of the so-called Museum Quarter youll nd the hip De Pijp district full of bohemian cafs, fun bars and unique shops. Its also home to the Al- bert Cuyp Market, packed with stalls selling pretty much anything. Just take tram No.2 or 5 to reach the heart of the district. ACCOMMODATION EASYHOTEL AMSTERDAM FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT The cheap, no frills airline EasyJet has also branched out into cruise ships and even hotels, which is desperately needed in Amsterdam where room prices are often ri- diculously and undeservedly expensive. Located in the bohemian De Pijp district of Amsterdam South, this hotel provides tiny rooms with WC and a glass shower in the room, so if you have a roommate he/she better not be shy. Not unlike the airline, you have to pay for any extra ameni- ties such as TV, wireless internet access and housekeeping services.QH-10, Van Ostadestraat 97, danny.vanspall@ amsterdamfb.easyhotel.com, www.easyhotel.com. 80 rooms (doubles from 59). PZJAULGW MAXIME BOUTIQUE HOTEL If youd like to stay in a trendy, yet surprisingly aord- able boutique hotel on Amsterdams swankiest shop- ping street where the citys wealthy park their Ferraris and Porsches, then look no further than Maxime. All of its rooms are decorated in black, white and beige tones and include at screen TVs, free internet access, minimal- ist design and private bathrooms with marble vanities. Even if youre not planning on staying here, you can drop by its purple ground oor brasserie for coee and cake or a proper meal with some of the Dutch capitals glitterati. QF-10, P.C Hooftstraat 63, tel. (+31) 206 76 02 32, info@ maximeamsterdam.nl, www.maximeamsterdam.nl. 12 rooms (attic room from 79, doubles from 89, deluxe from 99). ARLGK hhh FOOD & DRINK BAZAR Located in a huge space that was once a church in the mid- dle of Amsterdams most famous street market, Bazar oers a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle Eastern and North African dishes too numerous to mention here. Suce it to say, that you can get anything from kebabs, falafel and hummus to exotic seafood and lots of cuisine with tangy harissa sauce. Dine under enormous Moroccan-style lamps on the second oor balcony or below multicoloured ash- ing Christmas lights on the ground oor. The food is refresh- ingly aordable and the atmosphere is friendly and casual. Despite the Islamic dcor, plenty of beer, wine and spirits can be ordered at the central bar.QH-8, Albert Cuypstraat 182, tel. (+31) 206 75 05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12). A DE TAART VAN MN TANTE (MY AUNTIES PIE) The list of Dutch (and foreign) celebrities alone whove tasted the sweet and incredible delicacies served in this tiny, colourful place in Amsterdam South is more than im- pressive. Time and again, its two owners manage to think of something innovative and delicious from edible cloth- ing to the kitschiest wedding cakes in the city. Its almost a shame to destroy these beautiful creations by eating them. Even the window display will get you salivating, but note the opening hours, or thats all youll get to see.QG- 10, Ferdinand Bolstraat 10, tel. (+31) 207 76 46 00, www. detaart.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. TABKS SPANG MAKANDRA When we walked through the door of this ethnic eatery we noticed that most of the limited seating was occupied by Surinamese immigrants giving us a clear indication that we had come to right place for authentic cuisine. Ignore the cheesy illuminated paintings on the walls of blue waters and palm trees and get stuck into a roti (meat and sauce with a huge pancake), chow mein noodles and nasi (baked rice). In short, this is a great local venue to eat large portions of tasty Surinamese cuisine, but dont forget to bring cash.QG-10, Gerard Doustraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 70 50 81/(+31) 650 52 58 01, www.spangmakandra.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. S THE OYSTER CLUB Located in the historic stadium that hosted the 1928 Olym- pic Games as well as its fair share of Ajax football matches, The Oyster Club, not surprisingly, specialises in fresh sea- food, sushi and, of course, oysters. Not unlike the stadium it- self, the restaurant and lounge is incredibly spacious and of- fers stylish dcor as well as a huge outdoor terrace when the weather cooperates. Opened in 2013, it has quickly become a local hotspot on weekend nights when hip and auent Amsterdammers drop by for DJs and excellent cocktails. QOlympisch Stadion 35, tel. (+31) 205 70 84 00, www. theoysterclub.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (30 - 50). ALBW Fresh seafood at the Albert Cuyp Market M.Zaprauskis Autumn 2014 51 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Zuid Take a break at a caf on Museumplein M.Zaprauskis SIGHTSEEING ALBERT CUYP MARKET (ALBERT CUYPMARKT) This vibrant daily market located in the bohemian De Pijp district is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery, fresh seafood like crab and lobster, owers, lingerie, souve- nirs, fresh fruit, hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more things you cant do without as wells as plenty of food stalls. QH-9, Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE If youd like to see how one of the worlds most popular beers is made and sample the nished product at its ul- tramodern bar, then look no further than the Heineken Ex- perience, which truly is an experience. Although this tasty brew, which is distributed in over 170 countries around the globe isnt produced on the premises, you can take a tour and learn about the companys evolution from its found- ing in 1864 in Amsterdam to its current status as a multina- tional brand. Youll reach the climax of the tour where you can enjoy two cold beers with dozens of other Heineken fans. Exit the experience via the Heineken shop where you can get pretty much anything with the Heineken logo on it. QG-9, Stadhouderskade 78, tel. (+31) 205 23 92 22, www.heineken.com/experience. Open 11:00 - 19:30 (last tour at 17:30). Admission: 17. AU HOUSE OF BOLS EXPERIENCE Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the House of Bols is one the worlds oldest spirits makers, not to mention one of the oldest rms on record. Its renowned jenever recipe dates back to as early as 1664 and was introduced to the British roughly 25 years later where it was modied to English tastes and produced locally as gin. Although the venerable company moved away to a location near The Hague in 1969 it opened this amazing tasting experience and bartending school near the Van Gogh Museum in Am- sterdam in 2007. The award-winning Genever Experience showcases the roughly 40 liqueurs it sells in 110 countries around the world as well as the wide varieties of jenevers it produces. .QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 14, tel. (+31) 205 70 85 75, www.houseofbols.nl. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 11.50. A RIJKSMUSEUM This colossal building occupies nearly an entire city block and is nally open to the public again after years of reno- vations. View ancient weapons, gold and silver artefacts and of course an incredible collection of the nations best old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and Steen. Scenes depict everything from biblical tales and windmilled landscapes to portraits and illustrations of 17th-century family life, not to mention exotic scenes from Hollands far ung Golden Age colonies. Some of the museums most famous paintings like Rembrandts The Jewish Bride and The Night Watch are also described in detail in laminated information cards, so you can take your time and discover interesting facts about each of these canvases. QF-9, Museumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1, tel. (+31) 206 74 70 47, www.rijksmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 15, under 18 free. STEDELIJK MUSEUM The Netherlands most important museum for modern and contemporary art was in a coma for an unexpected eight years, but is now open to the public. The addition of a new building has doubled the size of the museum and the Ste- delijk is now the proud owner of the largest exhibition space in Holland. It has no windows, which makes this 1100m2 area also suitable for displaying digital and video art. The interior of the old and new buildings have been completely integrated, so youll hardly notice where the 100-year-old edice ends and the modern one begins. If you lose your bearings just remember that the old part houses the per- manent collections, while the new building exhibits tempo- rary work.QF-10, Museumplein 10, tel. (+31) 205 73 29 11, www.stedelijk.nl. Open closed. Admission: adults 10, below 18 years free entrance. AK VAN GOGH MUSEUM Very few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this incredible museum. Its vast collection includes roughly 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise most of the works produced by the troubled artist in his short 10-year career. After dabbling in religious vocations and art selling, he nally embarked on his true calling in 1880, which is where the museums permanent exhibit be- gins. Those familiar with only his later works will no doubt be surprised to see the dark greys, browns and blues used in Van Goghs earliest still lifes of cabbages and clogs, not to mention some of the subject matter such as a smoking skeleton. The vibrant paintings for which he is now so re- nowned only appeared later during his time in Paris when he discovered colour. Although the museum is indeed a shrine to all things Van Gogh, it also displays a varied col- lection of works by world-famous artists from early men- tors like Anton Mauve and Jules Dupr to such icons of Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Gauguin, Renoir, Czanne and Toulouse-Lautrec from which he drew inspi- ration. QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel. (+31) 205 70 52 00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and under free. AUKW 52 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Zuidoost Zuidoost is Amsterdams most multicultural district. More than 130 nationalities live here and these diverse cultural backgrounds are reected in its many festivals with foreign roots like the Summer Festival, which is spread across ve weekends in July and August. And despite its many mod- ern skyscrapers, Zuidoost, or de Bijlmer as the locals call it, can often feel like a small village. It boasts several parks and green spaces including the Gaasper Park, the crown jewel of them all. Its also a fairly new area, its rst houses having been built as recent as 1968. Recent development around Ajaxs stadium, the Amsterdam Arena, has led to a cultural renais- sance, not to mention an economic boom. Amsterdams big- gest shopping centres and megastores are almost all located here and the Heineken Music Hall and the brand new Ziggo Dome are both state of the art concert halls attracting world renowned talent from around the globe. Take in a concert, spend the day shopping or just walk around and experience the diversity of this vibrant area that most tourists never see. ARRIVING IN ZUIDOOST Zuidoost can be easily reached by metro, train or bus. The easiest way to get here is to take a 20-minute metro ride from the Central Station. Yellow line 54 begins at the Cen- tral Station and ends at Gein, while green line 50 passes the western part of the city and has the same destination. Red line 53 follows the yellow line until Van der Madeweg and then travels east until it reaches the Gaasperplas. ACCOMMODATION FLETCHER HOTEL AMSTERDAM This huge hotel is so modern it looks like it belongs in a sci- ence ction movie. To nd it just look for the shimmering blue polka-dotted column rising up from the Schepen- bergweg. But the futuristic theme doesnt end there as all of the rooms also look like accommodation on the Starship Enterprise, but much more luxurious. That said, the see- through shower tube in the middle of the room might not be to everyones liking or perhaps just the opposite. You can also enjoy excellent food and drink on the top oors of the building in either the Pi Sky Lounge or the Pi Sky Bar. In short, the hotel is an absolute must if youre into cutting- edge design.QU-2, Schepenbergweg 50, tel. (+31) 203 11 36 70, www.fetcherhotelamsterdam.nl. 120 rooms (doubles from 109). PHAFKW HOSTELLE Tired of bleary-eyed men whove had too much to drink or smoke leering at you as you return to your hostel? Dont feel safe staying at a dingy backpackers hovel that caters to stag parties or dodgy drifters? No problem. This wonderful hostel designed by women for women oers stylish accommodation for ladies whod like to avoid the lesser representatives of the male species. Stylish private rooms include ensuite facilities and amenities like sham- poo and toiletries, while the dorms have in-room lockers and a shelf next to each bunk bed. Each room has a dier- ent theme so you can pretend that youre on the African savannah or in a Chinese palace. A rooftop terrace is avail- able.QU-2, Frankemaheerd 2, tel. (+31) 207 70 35 04, www.hostelle.com. Breakfast: 5. AW FOOD & DRINK ASIAN FANTASY The name Asian Fantasy might conjure up titillating ideas, but the location certainly doesnt. This Chinese restaurant is hidden away in a narrow alleyway o a popular shop- ping street, so if youre looking for a cosy place for a meal, you might as well keep on walking. On the other hand, the food is better than average and although a rst look at the menu wont exactly supply any surprises, the chef can turn any dish into something spectacular. You wont nd microwaved stir fries with lots of sticky sauces made to suit Western tastes, but proper Asian dishes with au- thentic avours. We recommend the spicy soups.QV-1, Bijlmerplein 561, tel. (+31) 206 96 82 42. NK LA PLACE AMSTERDAM ZUIDOOST Youll nd this large food court at the V&D department store only a stones throw from the A9 motorway. La Place specialises in fresh produce varying from sandwiches with generous llings to large portions of stir-fry dishes and the quality of the home-made soups is also better than aver- age. Unfortunately, youll have to put up with the atmo- sphere of the adjacent motorway, a view of the American golden arches and businessmen in a hurry who are keen to use the free wireless internet.QU-2, Muntbergweg 22 - 24, tel. (+31) 203 65 53 30, www.laplace.nl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. ALKSW STARBUCKS Four stools, six tables, a leather couch and a simple seating area: thats all the dcor this Starbucks has to oer. And of course a lot of good coee. However, if youd like to sit outside, thats possible as well in this stations refresh- ment room. Its also a good place for people not addicted to caeine, as it has a wide selection of freshly squeezed smoothies and spicy drinks like chai tea. If youre simply looking for a snack, you could always gorge on some of the many cakes and pastries in the display cases, but you should avoid the seats near the front door on cold days, unless youre Inuit.QU/V-1, Arena Boulevard 618, www. starbucks.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. ZTAULBSW The future has arrived at the Fletcher Hotel Amsterdam in Zuidoost Autumn 2014 53 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Zuidoost T PLEINTJE Few pubs represent multicultural and tolerant Amsterdam society better than t Pleintje. The Heineken on draught is poured by friendly gay sta and on the other side of the bar youll nd an attractive mix of the many nationalities that live in this part of town. The red and white Ajax ag leaves no doubt about what football team is supported here and numerous TV screens continually show MTV images and football matches.QV-1, Harriet Freezerstraat 104. SIGHTSEEING BIJLMER HANS MOOREN EXPERIENCE Hans Mooren has been giving guided bicycle tours of the Biljmer neighbourhood for over 15 years to dispel the myth that this is an area of town plagued by social prob- lems. You can also take a tour on a Segway or a scooter and you can customise your route to include ethnic eateries, mosques or art and architecture.QV-1, Kruitberg 1005a, tel. (+31) 624 85 67 09, www.bijlmerexperience.nl. GAASPER PARK (GAASPERPARK) This spacious park occupies the northern shore of Lake Gaasperplas, a man-made body of water that was created when the land was excavated to provide sand and earth for the new building projects in the area. The park came into being in the late 1970s and early 1980s and hosted the massive Dutch Floriade in 1982, an enormous ower and gardening event that is held once every 10 years. A large campground is also available in the park.QV/W-1, Between Loosdrechtdreef and Provincialeweg. THE KISS (DE KUS) Some people only see two winding steel pipes, while others immediately detect the deeper meaning that was intended by artist Jeroen Henneman when he designed The Kiss. The idea came to him as early as 1972 during a trip through Mexico, but his simple, yet powerful design was only erected on this public space at the Bijlmerdreef 10 years later in 1982. Its also one of the few statues that actually looks best when Dutch skies are completely grey, meaning most days.QV-1, Bijlmerdreef. WORLD OF AJAX TOURS (AMSTERDAM ARENA) If youre into football, a visit to the Arena, the hallowed home of the players in red and white, might be a good option. You can join a guided tour of the stadium in Zui- doost five times each day after youve paid the 14.50 fee, which is, of course, much cheaper than a ticket to an actual match. The tour lasts abut an hour and you finish back where you started. It predictably ends at the club shop where you can express your newly acquired love for Ajax by purchasing lots of red and white sou- venirs.QU-1, ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13 36. Open 11:00 - 16:30 (except on event days). Ad- mission: adults 14.50, children 5 - 12 years 9.50. Take metro line 54 from the Central Station to the Amsterdam Bijlmer Arena stop and then follow signs to Main Entrance E. Jeroen Hennemans sculpture, The Kiss SHOPPING IKEA This Scandinavian phenomenon needs no introduction. Find all the beds, baths, sofas, furniture and Swedish meat- balls you crave at its Amsterdam location in Zuidoost.QU/ V-2, Hullenbergweg 2, tel. (+31) 90 02 35 45 32, www. ikea.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AS MEDIA MARKT This is probably the largest electronics shop in Amsterdam and it also has some of the longest opening hours in the city. Apart from all the necessary audio/visual equipment, Media Markt also has a wide variety of beauty and well- ness gadgets.QU-1, Arena Boulevard 123 - 125, tel. (+31) 205 64 16 16, www.mediamarkt.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. TAUL PALAIS DE FROMAGE Sandwiches and small French baguettes are the best- selling items at this popular cheese shop. There are almost always queues at the front counter, even though its not exactly a small place, which is a good sign. Its also a good place for nuts, dried goods, dairy products and even gour- met chocolate and the Chinese owners have managed to create an authentic Dutch atmosphere here right down to the tacky dcor.QV-1, Bijlmerplein 88, tel. (+31) 203 65 01 08. AULS VILLA ARENA WOONMALL With a whopping four oors (and two extra parking ones), Villa Arena is the biggest speciality shopping centre of its kind in the country, featuring 60 shops selling everything you could possibly need or want thats related to home decorations and interior design. This futuristic building opened in 2001 and its 75,000m2 are just begging to be explored. Plenty of space is available in the parking ga- rages and if youre exhausted from all the shopping, the selection of restaurants is far better than the food court or fast food venue at your average shopping mall.QU-1, De Entree 1, tel. (+31) 800 84 55 22 7, www.villaarena.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Mon 13:00 - 17:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PTA6ULGBKSW 54 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Gay Amsterdam Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands be- came the rst country in the world to ocially recognise same-sex marriages. With four distinctive gay districts in the city centre, rainbow ags on nearly every other street and the annual Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the place to be for gays worldwide. Several areas form what can be dubbed Amsterdams Gay Village. All areas are with- in easy walking distance of one another. The prime area is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay Main Street) and prime hunting ground for upmarket clubs and trendy restaurants. Other areas include the Kerkstraat (near Leidsestraat) with two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and Amistad) as well as a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in the Red Light district (with cruise bars, a leather scene and a cinema) and the Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs). INFORMATION GAY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (GAYTIC) This place oers lots of information about everything youd like or need to know about the gay scene in Am- sterdam from night clubs and parties to local shops and publications. You can also buy stu at its Gays&Gadgets shop.QA-1, Spuistraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 30 14 61. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A SAUNAS THERMOS SAUNA One of the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a legendary gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies, students and the occasional geriatric all mix in the laby- rinth upstairs and the wet compartments on ground oor that include a swimming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and whirlpool. The dcor is still very much stuck in the 1970s and about as cosy as the interior of a nuclear power plant, but most men seem to focus on other things, which ex- plains the cruisy atmosphere, especially at the weekend. An attached hair salon and beauty parlour is also available for those in need and free condoms can be found at the bar.QE-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 58, ofce@ thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Ad- mission: under 21 years 10, 22 - 25 years 14, and 26 and over 19. PJBKXC NIGHTLIFE CAFE LELLEBEL Just around the corner from busy Rembrandtplein youll nd an alternative to the squares legendary nightlife, which mostly consists of tourist pubs, techno clubs and meat markets. This self-proclaimed drag show bar is a cosy haunt that resembles a brown bar rather than a cutting edge design bar so popular with the gay scene these days. Transvestites, transgenders, lesbians and gays have enjoyed its unique atmosphere since 1997 and it always makes a good showing at the gay canal boat parade each year and is the place to go for karaoke every Tuesday night.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 4, tel. (+31) 204 27 51 39, www.lellebel.nl. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A CAF ROUGE Red like a cheap brothel, this unpretentious late night spot attracts a diverse crowd willing to party and score. A live DJ tries to please the crowd with a mixture of gay classics, Eurovision and modern pop. The walls lled with photos of Dutch and international royalty add to the campy at- mosphere where anything can happen. Anything can also mean nothing, but on weekends and special days like Queens Day its a safe option for fun.QG-6, Amstel 60, tel. (+31) 204 20 98 81, www.caferouge.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PJNG CLUB CHURCH This is Amsterdams ultimate cruising club with two oors of play and dance areas that oer changing theme par- ties and DJs every night. Free condoms throughout the venue and lots of more serious kinky toys are available for use including slings, private cabins and even a Saint Andrews cross, which has nothing to do with heraldry and everything to do with bondage. Yep, you can get it as wild or rough as youd like it, but its probably not the best place to have your rst gay experience and denitely not an appropriate venue to have an after-work drink with your straight business colleagues.QF-7, Kerkstraat 52, www.clubchurch.nl. Open Tue, Wed 20:00 - 01:00, Thu 22:0004:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:0004:00. Closed Mon. PJNGX MONTMARTRE Always packed at the weekend, Montmartre can be a bit claustrophobic, but those who enjoy lots of bodily contact and irting with the hot young boys in their teens and twenties that come here are in for a real treat. Cheesy pop and Eurovision make Montmartre a heaven for all Dutch queens, so bring your attitude, get drunk, croon with Sandra Kim and Kylie Minogue and dance the night away. You can also use its happy hour from 18:00 - 20:00 to get in the mood.QB-3, Halvemaansteeg 17, tel. (+31) 20 620 76 22, www.cafemontmartre.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJNGX Show some respect for the gay community Autumn 2014 55 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Gay Amsterdam OLDEST GAY BAR Although Amsterdam is now one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world, it wasnt always such a pillar of tolerance. But one woman had an incredible inuence on the Dutch capital and its residents. Bet van Beeren was born in 1902 and spent her childhood in the Jordaan district of Amsterdam, before opening her legendary bar t Man- dje, or The Basket, on the Zeedijk in 1927. Although the establishment was hardly advertised as a gay bar, it was a place where anyone - gay, straight, bi or otherwise - could have a drink, provided they behaved themselves. In those days the police could revoke a bars license for promoting what we today would call a gay lifestyle, so Bet kept a close watch on her patrons making sure there werent any obvious displays of af- fection between same-sex couples with perhaps the exception of Queens Day (now Kings Day) a tradi- tion that began after WWII. On this magical day pretty much anything was possible and t Mandje gained a reputation as the ultimate place to celebrate this Dutch holiday. That said, Bet usually took an interest in her patrons and if she observed anyone misbehaving, she would penalise them by cutting o an article of cloth- ing with a butchers knife, hence all of the ties nailed to the ceiling. As time passed, Bet became one of the chief attrac- tions of her bar and thats hardly surprising given her appearance and demeanour. An openly gay woman who drank like a sh and smoked like chimney, she was also known for her risqu wardrobe, which included a leather motorcycle jacket. This naturally raised a few eyebrows in her time. In the end, it was the drink that eventually claimed her life. It was not uncommon for her to knock back dozens of glasses of beer during a typical day at the bar, but this was simply part of her lifestyle and she enjoyed herself immensely while gain- ing the respect of her patrons and neighbours who often called her the Queen of the Zeedijk. When she passed away in 1967, she was laid out on the billiard ta- ble of the bar where 30,000 people paid their respects to her over the course of two days. The bar nally closed its doors in 1983, but Bets niece, Diana van Laar, re-opened the bar with the help of her husband in 2008. Caf t Mandje B-1, Zeedijk 63, tel. (+31) 206 22 53 75, www.cafetmandje.nl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Tue 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. PRIK Prik, a relaxed and cosy caf near Dam Square, is the ideal place to meet your friends, or even your grandmother, and have a drink to start the night o. Prosecco on tap, sexy cocktails, tasty nger food a live DJ and a good vibe will probably make you linger around longer than you might have planned. It was voted several times as the best gay bar in town and we can certainly see why. Prik rocks!QA-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02, www.prikamsterdam.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. PJNGB REALITY Reality is a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail from exotic locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and other hot destinations, so its a bit alternative compared to the other places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa, meren- gue and calypso is also available for those who are fed up with the regular gay bubblegum. This might also be the place to see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned men and their toys are just a myth.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31) 206 39 30 12, www.barreality.freehomepage.com. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PJNG TABOO This bar boasts two big screens showing cheesy music videos, hot bartenders who are actually friendly and at- tentive and a comfy smoking room on the rst oor which seems to be a winning combination especially on a street that needed a breath of fresh air. Two happy hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 - 01:00) has also helped to build up a steady and happy clientile. Sundays oer a double happy hour from 18:00 until 20.00!QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel. (+31) 207 75 39 63, www. taboobar.nl. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PJNGBX THE QUEENS HEAD At the head of the Zeedijk the Queens Head is an old time gay favourite with a loyal clientele. Friendly bar sta, chan- deliers, drag nights and hilarious bingo nights on Thurs- days are all major draws. Downstairs a cosy backroom with a romantic canal view is also available and live DJs spin music at the weekend. In short, its a lovely place to actu- ally meet other people.QB-1, Zeedijk 20, tel. (+31) 204 20 24 75, www.queenshead.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PJNGBX VIVELAVIE An institution in the Amsterdam gay-scene, this lesbian bar has been around for more than 30 years and is still alive and kicking! It has an unpretentious and cosy atmosphere with old Hollywood posters on the wall. Ladies meet their friends, talk, read, eat, sip their cocktails and dance in the late hours in this Art Deco-style space. The menu oers tapas, tosties and other nger food and the music varies from lounge to gay classics. QB-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 24 01 14, www.vivelavie.net. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PJNGBX 56 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Coffeeshops SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery E Live music B Outside seating X Smoking section S Takeaway W Wi HIGHER EDUCATION For everyone with an interest in cannabis or questions about can- nabis, the Cannabis Col- lege is a must-visit. Not only can you learn about the risks and benets of cannabis, the sta at the information centre will gladly advise you where to buy good weed and which cof- feeshops you should avoid. Cannabis College is a non- prot organisation aimed at educating the public about cannabis in an unbiased, scientically backed, manner. Their library is a gold mine of information about can- nabis, particularly if youd like to learn about the plants medical potential. Cannabis College also provides training for sta members of several coeeshops and, believe it or not, they have even trained Dutch police ocers! All the information is free, as well as a visit to the small, labo- ratory-like garden downstairs. The worlds only college of cannabis education is located in the heart of the Red Light district at B-2, Ou- dezijds Achterburgwal 124, www. cannabiscollege.com. Whether you smoke the herb or not, coeeshops in Am- sterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose the right one and it'll be an experience you'll never forget. Choose the wrong one and you you'll probably forget that you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many dif- ferent types of coeeshops, for dierent kinds of people. Some look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan mon- asteries (once you're stoned) and others like super-modern cafs. And in the summer, many have outside seating, sometimes near the canal. Coeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long history (Mellow Yellow was the rst one in 1973), even during times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been imitated across much of Europe, as well as the Americas, proof enough that the system works (for the 'evil' criminal gangs anyway). Given the city's status as a major shipping hub and its maze of canals, it's not hard to imagine how drug track- ing in this city was an attractive option. Coeeshops could easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit. Today, they are mostly supplied by car, a much less romantic op- tion. After extensive wandering around, a list of dozens of coeeshops not to be missed during your stay is provided here. They are selected from across the city, so that you're never at any point far away from one of these exceptional Dutch institutions. COFFEESHOPS Although the Netherlands was once known as a safe haven for people who enjoy the herb, conservative poli- tics and a national law have sent many a foreign toker looking for less turbulent shores to have a joint. Of- cially the law states that only residents of Holland may buy and smoke soft drugs like marijuana and hash at cofeeshops in the Netherlands. Although initially en- forced in other areas of the country (but not now), the wise and commerce driven Amsterdammers have done what they usually do when they dont like a law. The city and the local police have turned a blind eye to pot smoking fearing a catastrophic loss of tourism euros. Basically, what were saying is that you can go to any of the following places and smoke to your lungs content. ABRAXAS Down a side-street o one of the main boulevards in Amsterdam Centrum, youll nd this surprisingly cosy medium-size coeeshop spread over several narrow oors. With extensive mosaics and elaborate dcor, it includes large comfortable banquettes and pleasantly mellow lighting aided by candles on every table. Well organised and ecient sta make this an attractive op- tion for a relaxed (but brief ) break while touring the citys many delights. Longer stays at this coeeshop will per- mit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfort- able smoking session.QA-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14, abraxas@abraxas.tv, www.abraxas.tv. Open 10:00 - 01:00. J AMNESIA The rst thing to be said about this coeeshop is that its part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup Awards and therefore should be on the map for any con- noisseur. Even if youre just eager to sit down in pleasant surroundings, this is a good option. With a view of the ca- nal, down a quiet side street, this establishment boasts a pleasant dcor of purple swirls and gold and black as well as equally pleasant and ecient sta. A choice of games and vaporizers will ensure your time at this coeeshop is well spent, and outside seating in the summer makes this a prime summer coeeshop.QE-5, Herengracht 133, tel. (+31) 204 27 78 74. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Autumn 2014 57 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Coffeeshops EMBRACING THE HAZE When experimenting with soft drugs in Amsterdam one should also bear in mind that there are usually two types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC content and creates a strong stoned or high feeling; and non- haze which has a somewhat milder eect. The price dierence may sometimes be quite substantial be- tween these two types, as haze weed plants (usually strong sativas - for those in the know) are bigger and harder to grow properly than non-haze plants (usually strong indicas). If youre a non-regular smoker, or even a regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze to get your bearings and then perhaps try a haze joint to see how you feel. For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily con- sumption), haze weed will show you how truly stoned you can get, but beware as some types may stick you to your chair and you may drool (well, maybe not the second part). Just remember to have fun! BARNEYS This coeeshop review is more about the three establish- ments which are part of Barneys coeeshop empire and all located on Haarlemmerstraat within close walking distance of each other. One venue is a coeeshop, the other is a bar/ restaurant and the nal one is a souvenir shop/bar and smoke-room, meaning that in between these three places, you can smoke drink and eat to your hearts content in an at- tractive environment with a pleasant dcor. Popular partic- ularly with tourists, it provides its customers with arguably one of the best choices in life; get high and eat, get high and drink, or get high and have a coee. And to get high with a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful choices to be made here, but once your desires have been met, it is always good to remember that the souvenir shop will provide you with numerous ways to annoy your boss/ mother-in-law/ lecturer/ law enforcement agency (delete where appropri- ate).QD-3, Haarlemmerstraat 105, tel. (+31) 204 27 94 69, www.barneys.biz. Open 07:30 - 01:00. P BULLDOG NO. 90 Arguably the rst ever coeeshop in Amsterdam, this es- tablishment combines cannabis history and getting high with an excellent central location. With seating overlook- ing the canal on the inside and seating on the edge of the canal outside, this coeeshop is an ideal place any time of year. The dcor of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper articles and the orange (youll understand once you get here) tells the story of this venerated establishment, which gives o a pub-like atmosphere. Computers with internet access are available (for a fee) for any last-minute travel ar- rangements or any web addicts and the sta are friendly and helpful. Finally, the herb purchasing area is seperate from the drinks area. A small, but important detail when you want to get your smoke on in a hurry.QB-2, Ou- dezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel. (+31) 206 25 98 64, www. thebulldog.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. JB DOLPHINS You wont nd a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam or any other place on the planet for that matter. With an overwhelming marine theme and the friendly dolphin as your guide you can make a selection from the aordable and obviously placed menu, sit down at one of the many high quality vaporizers and just do your thing. The con- stant bubbling and of course your choice of herb will make you feel as if submerged in another world. If inhaling at a stool isnt your thing, there are large sofas to sink into and the friendly sta can ensure all your needs are met down here underwater, although you may have to swim to the surface (or the bar) to get served.QF-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 25 91 62. Open 10:00 - 01:00. GBXW EASY TIMES With more then 40 wonderful choices on weed and hash, this is smokers paradise. If you prefer a bong or vaporizer to reach a trippy experience, settle down in the Arabian style room in the back. A shining red carpet, in normal life only to be walked on by VIPs or other arrogant twats, leads the way to this Walhalla on Earth. And if you got problems getting high, just watch one of the four giant plasma screens where CNN, BBC and all those other news stations keep on broadcasting in what fucked up world we live in. Funny and handy souvenirs like a pink glass elephant ash- tray (were not kidding) can be purchased from the small booth at the entrance.QPrinsengracht 476, tel. (+31) 206 26 57 09,. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JNXSW 58 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Coffeeshops FUNNY PEOPLE This coeeshop is a bit dark and on the small side, but the candles, comfy seating and cushions all ensure a relatively cosy experience and its located near the train station. The dcor has no particular theme, but is still pleasing to the eye even before a smoke. A TV and some board games are available as well as a few snacks. A good choice to get a quick high while waiting for a train or hotel check-in.QB- 1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 24, tel. (+31) 206 23 86 63. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. JGX LA TERTULIA Open since 1983, one of the oldest coeeshops in Amster- dam is also one of the most appealing and original. Apart from the relatively ordinary weed menu, the environment which the friendly mother and daughter create here, in- cludes extensive detailed artwork on the outside as well as the inside, providing trippy experiences at every corner. The selection of drinks and inexpensive sandwiches and toasties is more extensive than in most coeeshops in Amsterdam and the many plants, as well as the multiple levels and patio furniture make one feel as if they were pic- nicking in a garden. Try the delicious home-made weed brownies!QE-6, Prinsengracht 312, tel. (+31) 206 23 85 03, www.cofeeshopamsterdam.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B LION OF JUDAH (BUSHMAN) Beware! If you cant relate to the Rastafarian way of life, you may not enjoy this coeeshop. If, however, youd like to embrace your inner Marley, then by all means pay a visit to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and black history d- cor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it appears) serving you behind the bar will certainly help you to get closer to Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised products on oer here, mon.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 47, tel. (+31) 206 24 27 23. Open 12:00 - 01:00. MAGIC This charming North African-style coeeshop boasts computers with internet access and a pool table, along with other games, as well as large comfortable seating ar- eas. The Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if you decide to spark up, particularly after the scenic walk to get to here. Far away from the main tourist areas you may nd that this place is more appropriate when not alone. QA-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96. Open 10:00 - 01:00. NOON Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make this an ideal coeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals, chat with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one of its large tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV and even a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as the usual smoking paraphernalia. Its a good stop before a night of partying on Leidseplein.QF-8, Zieseniskade 22, tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22. Tintin caught in the act! Lya Cattel IN YOUR POCKET PRESS Brutally honest. Wall Street Journal Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison. The Independent Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city. The Guardian In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guide- books. The New York Times In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publishers website. Sueddeutsche Zeitung The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. They have become a European publishing phenomenon. International Herald Tribune Autumn 2014 59 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Coffeeshops PARADOX Amsterdam used to boast over 1,000 coeeshops, but these days only a quarter of these remain, including Para- dox in the heart of the Jordaan, which has served as a ha- ven for local smokers since 1991. Most tourists never set foot in this quiet place, even though its more than worth a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated by promising young grati artists and the best works will make you feel like youre hallucinating even when youre not stoned.QD- 7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206 23 56 39, www. paradoxcofeeshop.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JNX RESIN Fairly spacious with a particularly original and green inte- rior, this coeeshop may provide a some pleasant respite during a visit to Amsterdam. Reecting the theme of the famous Red Light District, a keen eye may be able to dis- cern sex swings, but dont worry. Other seating is available in the form of sofa benches lining the wall. There are TV screens to catch your gaze and music with an electronic edge drones on in the background. The sta here arent particularly friendly, but then again thats fairly typical of Amsterdam coeeshops where the stoned customer is rarely king.QA-1, Hekelveld 7, tel. (+31) 204 22 98 38. ROKERIJ IV The latest addition to the Rokerij chain, this coeeshop can be found in the scenic Jordaan district. Featuring coloured candles, wooden tables, cushion seating and a pleasant interior adorned with both Tibetan and Moroccan details, this coeeshop could be the ideal place to play a game or two while making use of some of the bongs provided. The herbal menu here is exceptional and includes cannabis cup varieties and a good selection of drinks like fresh OJ.QE-7, Elandsgracht 53, tel. (+31) 206 23 09 38, www.rokerij.org. RUSLAND Rusland provides a pleasant break from the coeeshop norm, although to no extreme extent. The extensive choice of 40 teas provides a world of fragrances to com- plement the other pungent herbs you can purchase here. A successful but original mix of Russian and Moroccan dcor, a common cushioned seating area complete with a view onto the street and a friendly cat make this place an excellent environment in which to relax alone or with friends.QB-2, Rusland 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 94 68. SIBERIE Visit this coeeshop on a Friday or Saturday and youll be able to enjoy some live DJing with your smoke in a cosy at- mosphere. Candles, art work, owers on the tables as well as good music all contribute to the success of this con- verted garage. Some food is available, games are provided and the large wooden tables give all the space necessary to enjoy your time here without inconveniencing other patrons. Unlike its Russian namesake, its located in the ur- ban centre of the city.QA-1, Brouwersgracht 11, tel. (+31) 206 23 59 09, www.cofeeshopsiberie.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PEGXW SMART & HEAD SHOPS AMSTERDAM SEED CENTER Why buy untested and unproven weed when you can just buy seeds that have already been awarded the prestigious Cannabis Cup? If you live in Holland or another European country where its legal to import cannabis seeds you can ask the knowledgeable sta here everything there is to know about cultivating this amazing plant. The shop also sells books about growing cannabis and t-shirts made from hemp. Seeds can be ordered online and sent to your home if you live in the EU.QA-2, Gravenstraat 12, tel. (+31) 207 37 00 60, www.amsterdamseedcenter.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 19:00. Bag of 3 seeds 20 - 30. JA SENSI SEEDS Sensi Seeds has been developing cannabis seeds for over 25 years and thanks to shops like this, growing your own cannabis plant has never been easier. First-time growers can nd several stable feminised seeds that grow in nearly any climate, while experienced horticulturist can choose special sativas and indicas. The sta can help you choose the most suitable seeds, advise you on how to grow the plant and inform you about any possible legal issues. Seeds can also be bought online, but shipment is prohib- ited to most countries outside the EU (the only exceptions being Switzerland, Serbia and Guyana).QB-2, Oude Doel- enstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206 26 29 88, www.sensiseeds. com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at A-1, Nieuwendijk 26. 60 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Lifestyle Directory FOOTBALL MATCHES Whether due to the magic of its illustrious past, the excitement of the famous arena or just as part of a football pilgrimage, Ajax still draws tens of thousands of tourists every year. There are a high number of sea- son ticket holders, so only a few thousand seats are for sale for each game, which can be bought via the ocial Ajax site (www.ajax.nl). Matches are seldom boring in large part due to Section 410. This part of the stadium is populated by mostly young fans that are the teams most die-hard supporters. This is in stark contrast to the ocial so-called core support of the F-side, which you can nd behind the goal. Theyve recently been overshadowed by the young supporters of 410. Photo courtesy of Ajax Football Club Amsterdam Arena Arena boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13 33, www.ajax.nl, www.amsterdamarena.nl. Upcoming matches at Amsterdam Arena: 05.10 Ajax vs. PEC Zwolle AA 25.10 Ajax vs. Go Ahead Eagles AA 01.11 Ajax vs. FC Dordrecht AA 05.11 Ajax vs. FC Barcelona AA 22.11 Ajax vs. SC Heerenveen AA 06.12 Ajax vs. Willem II AA 10.12 Ajax vs. Apoel Nicosia AA Need to wash some clothes while you check your e-mail or nd a doctor to bandage a sprained ankle? Looking for a place to entertain your children or maybe a pharmacy to keep your hangover in check? Youll nd the answers here. BOWLING LOVERS POWERZONE Take advantage of six modern bowling lanes or challenge your friends to a game of laser tag.QG-4, De Ruyterkade 153, tel. (+31) 207 60 76 00, www.loverspowerzone.nl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 15:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Bowling: 22.50 - 27.50/hour, Laser tag: 9 - 16. TJG DENTISTS TANDARTSEN AAN DE HERENGRACHT QF-6, Herengracht 318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, info@ tadh.nl, www.tadh.nl. Open , Mon, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. HAIRDRESSERS & BARBERS HEAD 2 HEAD This is a barber shop for real men where electric shavers are used more often than scissors. A haircut will set you back about 15.QO-2, Eerste van Swindenstraat 46-D, tel. (+31) 206 92 73 78. KINKI KAPPERS Youll feel like a fashion model at this trendy hair salon. QD-3, Haarlemmerdijk 17, tel. (+31) 206 25 60 00, info@ kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. LAUNDRIES & DRY CLEANERS LAUNDRY & THINGS Self-serve washing machines starting at as low as 3 per load.QA-1, Warmoesstraat 30, tel. (+31) 614 03 28 03. Open 08:00 - 22:00. WASH & COFFEE Just like the name says.QG-9/10, Quellijnstraat 90, tel. (+31) 204 70 36 79, www.wash-cofee.nl. Open 07:30 - 18:30. Closed Tue. LIBRARIES CENTRALE BIBLIOTHEEK This modern glass building between the Central Station and the NEMO Science Centre not only has an interesting location but also books in English, internet access and its open late.QH-3, Oosterdokskade 143, tel. (+31) 205 23 09 00, info@oba.nl, www.oba.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. MASSAGE PHOTIC MEDICAL CENTER AMSTERDAM Dierent types of massages or acupuncture can be ar- ranged here from 20. QD-8, Kinkerstraat 102 HS, tel. (+31) 206 12 82 77. Open 10:00 - 21:00. XING XING MASSAGE SALON All kinds of massages from foot to full body.QS-4, Over- toom 95, tel. (+31) 204 89 30 88, www.xingxingmassage. webs.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30. The opulent Tuschinski Cinema M.Zaprauskis Autumn 2014 61 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Lifestyle Directory MEDICAL & WELLNESS EXPAT MEDICAL CENTRE The English-speaking doctors here oer medical atten- tion, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they accept EU health cards, too!QD-6, Bloemgracht 112, tel. (+31) 204 27 50 11, expatmc@planet.nl, www.expatmc. net. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. On Saturdays and Sundays by appointment only. PHARMACIES DA APOTHEEK LEIDSESTRAAT The pharmacy can be reached during the day via the entrance of the DA-drugstore at Leidsestraat around the corner.QF-7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76, tel. (+31) 204 22 02 10, www.da-apotheekleidsestraat.apotheek.org. Open 09:00 - 21:50. Closed Sat, Sun. DAM APOTHEEK Centrally located pharmacy next to the Dam.QA-2, Dam- straat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 43 31, damapotheek@ezorg.nl, www.dam-apotheek.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:30. A SPAS & BEAUTY CITY STREET SPA The Japanese-style City Street Spa is Amsterdams latest attraction among the spa set. Apart from the usual treat- ments, you can also hire the whole place for 60/hour. QG-8, Prinsengracht 764, tel. (+31) 202 21 41 02, www. thecitystreetspa.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. SPA AMSTERDAM ZUIVER This exclusive spa located in the Amsterdam Forest pro- vides a wide variety of pools, hot tubs, saunas, hamams and lounge areas both inside the complex and outside as well. Naturally, a range of massages, beauty treatments and wellness procedures are also on oer.QN-5, Koenen- kade 8 (Amsterdamse Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 10, info@ spazuiver.nl, www.spazuiver.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. ADw SWIMMING POOLS HET MARNIX Despites its small size, Het Marnix boasts two swimming pools, a spa, a health club and a restaurant.QD-5, Mar- nixplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 24 60 00, info@hetmarnix.nl, www.hetmarnix.nl. ABKC SPORTPLAZA MERCATOR A huge swimming pool, tness centre and gym.QR-3, Jan van Galenstraat 315, tel. (+31) 206 18 89 11, info@ sportplazamercator.nl, www.sportfondsen.nl. Open 13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at Froneman- straat 3, tel. (+31) 206 65 08 11. AC TATTOOS & PIERCING HANKY PANKY TATTOOING Tattoos in the Red Light district.QB-2, Oudezijds- voorburgwal 141, tel. (+31) 206 27 48 48, www. hankypankytattoo.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. TATTOO PALACE The tattoo artists have been at it here since 1989.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 91, tel. (+31) 206 38 44 48, calvo@ xs4all.nl, www.tattoopalace.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 19:00. VETS & PETS MEDISCH CENTRUM VOOR DIEREN A specialist clinic that also handles emergencies.QB- 2, Isolatorweg 45, tel. (+31) 207 40 06 00, www. mcvoordieren.nl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 24hrs. Bridges in the Grachtengordel M.Zaprauskis MIRACULOUS AMSTERDAM Amsterdam rst put its name on the map of Europe not with its trading prowess, its port or with prostitution, but with a supposed miracle thats still celebrated to- day on March 12. The story goes that in 1345 a man was gravely ill and summoned a priest to administer com- munion, but the man was so sick that he couldnt keep anything down and kept vomiting, so the clergyman advised the women of the household to throw any expelled holy liquids on the re, which they did. The next morning they discovered a perfectly formed host, or communion wafer, in the replace, which seemed impervious to the surrounding ames. A miracle was declared, a chapel was built on the site of the house and pilgrims began streaming into Amsterdam. Today pilgrims of a dierent sort still converge on the city and quite a few probably also vomit here, but we doubt that the shoarma and French fries that come up have any religious signicance. Its also interesting to note that the chapel was later destroyed and the building that now occupies its place houses the Amsterdam Dungeon. Sources also dont seem to mention what became of the man who started all of the commotion with his holy heaving. 62 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Amsterdam for kids Science is never boring at Science Center NEMO Although we wouldnt recommend a stroll with the kids around the Red Light district, except perhaps as a caution- ary tale, Amsterdam does have plenty of options for the lit- tle ones. Here are some of the best. AMSTERDAM MARIONETTE THEATRE (AMSTER- DAMS MARIONETTEN THEATER) The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre performs plays in its small theatre using traditional wooden mari- onettes. Performances are usually in Dutch, but due to the visual and musical nature of the acts, most kids wont care about the language barrier. You can also take a backstage tour for a behind the scenes look at the marionettes and costumes.QB-1, Nieu- we Jonkerstraat 8, tel. (+31) 206 20 80 27, info@ marionettentheater.nl, www.marionettentheater. nl. Admission: adults 16, children 7 - 14 years 7.50. Opening times vary. TJ BOUNZ What used to be a classroom for PE teachers in train- ing has now been transformed into a large trampoline centre. Young and old enjoy jumping, back ipping and opping on 32 connected trampolines. Its a lot of fun, but if youre over the age of 30, muscle aches are guaranteed!QM-2, Willinklaan 3-5, tel. (+31) 206 11 44 81, info@bounzsport.nl, www.bounzsport.nl. Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Ad- mission: 5.50/hour. TLN BOUWSPEELPLAATS T LANDJE Believe or not, but dads arent allowed in this childrens paradise. The management decided that their adult male presence was just too stern and would prevent kids from being, well, kids. t Landje, which is located on a penin- sula in Rembrandt Park, oers arts and crafts classes and other activities for children.QN-3, Rembrandtpark, tel. (+31) 206 18 36 04, imuls@impuls.nl, www.impuls.nl. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. TIBC DE PIJP PETTING ZOO This petting zoo has been entertaining children in De Pijp since 1983 and is home to an amazing 50 dierent species of animals from goldsh and rodents to turtles and ducks. The usual ponies, donkeys, pigs, rabbits, goats and sheep are also on hand.QH-10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel. (+31) 206 64 83 03, kinderboerderijdepijp@wanadoo. nl, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. T RACE PLANET AMSTERDAM This is the largest go-kart centre in the Netherlands with two indoor race tracks, a so-called wall-of-death, bowl- ing, miniature golf, a game zone and a indoor playground. QHerwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206 11 11 20, amsterdam@ raceplanet.nl, www.raceplanet.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Admission: 15.75 for a 12-minute race. TAL SCIENCE CENTER NEMO Look for the big green building jutting out into the water to nd this fun science centre that will make you wish you were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels where visitors can learn about science without the boring textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, gener- ate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change in the future with new and advanced tech- nologies; and lots of other interesting stu. An exhibition entitled Miracle or Science, which is dedicated to fun top- ics like predicting the path of a pendulum or watching a stone oat in the air will be on display until October 26 and the center will oer free admission on October 4 and 5 for Science Weekend. You can also bring your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or buy some food on the top oor terrace caf that oers a great view of the city. A good museum shop is also available where you can buy science experiments and other great souvenirs for kids.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, info@e-NEMO.nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Ad- mission: 15, children under four free. AK TUNFUN SPEELPARK In what looks like a disused underground metro station near the Portuguese Synagogue lies Tun Fun, a childrens paradise. If you cant nd it just follow the steady stream of families, childrens parties and school excursions into the depth of this enormous playground that includes slides, climbing labyrinths, painting workshops, trampolines and other atrractions. The screams of the children can be a bit overwhelming at times but internet access and cans of beer at the caf help keep the cacaphony of pre- pubescant chatter at bay. Adults are only admitted with children and only have to pay an entrance fee for their kids. QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 7, tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www. tunfun.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: kids 7.50, adults free. KW Autumn 2014 63 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Zandvoort aan Zee Sometimes theres nothing better than replacing the hus- tle and bustle of a large city with the peace and tranquility of the seaside. Zandvoort is not only the closest North Sea beach to Amsterdam, but its also one of Hollands most beloved summer resorts. The view of the North Sea will never disappoint and the fact that the beach at Zandvoort is one of the safest and cleanest in the country only adds to its popularity. But the beach isnt the only reason why people come here in droves.The town exudes a cosiness and a laid-back atmosphere that cant be beat, while the in- spiring landscapes of the dunes at the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park are just magical. Hollands most famous race track is also located in Zandvoort and its seaside cafs and restaurants provide an unforgettable dining experience. ARRIVING IN ZANDVOORT Most visitors reach Zandvoort either by train or by car. From Amsterdam Central Station trains depart every half hour toward the Zandvoort aan Zee Station. The journey takes about 30 minutes and after a short interruption at Haarlem Station, the train brings passengers through the landscape of dunes at Zuid-Kennemerland to the beach town on the North Sea. During the summer months, an extra service is provided to and from Haarlem every 30 minutes. A one- way ticket to Zandvoort costs 5.30 from Amsterdam or 2.10 from Haarlem. Travelling by car to Zandvoort is a bit more complicated. Follow the highway to Haarlem, navi- gate through the city and nd either the N201 or the N200. Both roads connect Haarlem with Zandvoort aan Zee. ACCOMMODATION AMSTERDAM BEACH HOTEL ZANDVOORT This stylish hotel oers tastefully decorated accommoda- tion in the city centre only a short walk from the beach. Each of its rooms has little in the way of embellishments with the exception of the walls, which are made of used, painted wooden planks giving singles, doubles and triples a beachy, shabby chic look thats more than appropriate given its seaside location. Some rooms have balconies with sea views but all have comfy beds, free wi- and at screen TVs. A great restaurant is also available on the premises.QBadhuisplein 2 - 4, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 232 01 03 02, www.amsterdambeachhotel.nl. 35 rooms. A6KW hhh THE SANDS HOTEL Located in a refurbished brick building only a stones throw from the beach and train station, this charming hotel is run by Linda and Harry who go out of their way to make your stay a special one. Rooms are on the small side, but oer simple, modern design, private bathrooms and lots of natural light. Apartments with kitchenettes are also avail- able, but we recommend the double with its own terrace or a room with a sea view. A top-notch restaurant is also at your disposal on the ground oor.QBurgemeester Engel- bertsstraat 70, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 238 22 37 43, www.thesandshotel.nl. 14 rooms. TAKW hhh EATING & DRINKING BOUDEWIJNS VISSERVICE A seaside boulevard wouldnt really be a seaside boule- vard without a proper sh stall. Boudewijns Visservice fulls this duty at the very centre of the Strandweg next to Holland Casino, and they do this very well. All types of North Sea creatures can be bought here and its a good place to stop by for shy snacks like kibbeling and herring. Fries, sandwiches, tea and coee can also be had here. QStrandweg, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 73 06 95, www.boudewijnsvisservice.nl. (3 - 4). S CLUB NAUTIQUE The fact that this large beach club is sponsored by a brand of champagne suggests that Club Nautique is one of the trendi- est of Zandvoorts beach pavilions. The food on oer is cer- tainly excellent and, together with a glass of bubbly, guests can expect great cuisine at this stylish establishment. Its open throughout the year and during the colder months large windscreens allow you to enjoy the outside terrace without the chilly North Sea winds.QBoulevard Barnaart 23, Zand- voort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 71 57 07, www.clubnautique.nl. Open 08:30 - 24:00. (18 - 20). A6BXW DE LACHENDE ZEEROVER All aboard The Smiling Pirate ship to eat pancakes like a hun- gry buccaneer setting sail for a feast. This friendly family restaurant with a Caribbean theme is an excellent place to bring the kids. Games and activities for children are available and pancakes always go down well with the youngsters. That said, the long tea list, the bottles of rum and a popular outside terrace make De Lachende Zeerover a good choice for adults as well.QStrandweg 1, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 73 87 40, www.delachendezeerover.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (10 - 12). BKX EVI RESTAURANT Located in an historic brick building in the centre of Zand- voort, EVI specialises in French-inspired cuisine presented in a modern fashion so get ready to try unique culinary treats from seafood and sweetbreads to eel and American steaks as well as some vegetarian options. Naturally, you can pair your meal with an excellent selection of wine and you can also dine out on the terrace. Bear in mind that EVI is only open in the evenings.QZeestraat 36, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 73 66 80, www.restaurantevi.nl. Open 17:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (25 - 30). AB Wildlife is a common sight on the outskirts of Zandvoort aan Zee 64 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Zandvoort aan Zee PLACES OF INTEREST AMSTERDAMSE WATERLEIDINGDUINEN The area of dunes just south of Zandvoort is a protected na- ture park and a great place to do some hiking in a gorgeous Dutch coastal landscape. The reserve oers a mixture of dunes and waterways, which have been used to purify the local water supply since the 19th century. Quite simply, the ne sand of the dunes naturally lters rain water. In Octo- ber you can also join a special tour of the dunes to watch deer compete for lovers during the mating season. Con- tact De Oranjekom visitor centre or VVV Zandvoort aan Zee at (+31) 235 71 79 47 or info@vvvzandvoort.nl to ar- range a guided hike. The nature park has four entrances and from Zandvoort the nearest entry point is just south of the De Duinrand (Zandvoorselaan 130) restaurant. The De Or- anjekom visitor centre is located near the eastern entrance at Eerste Leijweg and you can learn more about the water purication process here. Tickets can be bought at the De Duinrand restaurant, De Oranjekom or at the tourist oce in Zandvoort. Keep the ticket with you as forest rangers might ask you to show it.QZandvoortselaan 130, tel. (+31) 206 08 75 95, www.waternet.nl. Admission: 1.50/person. 6 SIGHTSEEING BUNKER TOUR Due to their close proximity to the strategic port of IJmuiden, the dunes just south of Zandvoort were heavily fortied by the Nazis during World War II. As part of the Atlantic Wall de- fence system, the German occupiers built several anti-aircraft guns and hundreds of bunkers in the area. Most of the Nazi bunkers are now covered by sand, but enthusiastic local guides know how to nd these concrete remnants of the war. You can go inside several bunkers, including a former com- manders bunker, and the beautiful nature park itself is worth the visit, but today youll probably see an occupier of another sort: deer. Guided tours start every Thursday at 10:30 at the entrance gate of the nature park next to the Duinrand restau- rant. Bus No.80 stops right in front of the restaurant at the Wa- terleiding/Nieuw Unicum stop. Book a tour at the Zandvoort tourist oce.QZandvoortselaan 130, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 71 79 47. Admission: 6.50. T NATIONAL PARK ZUID-KENNEMERLAND Zuid-Kennemerland is one of Hollands most beautiful national parks. The nature reserve is located just north of Zandvoort and the protected area covers 38km2 full of sand dunes, forests and wetlands. With over 100 dierent animal species, its an excellent place to spot birds and if youre lucky you might even see wild deer, hedgehogs or red foxes. A visitors centre called Kennemerduinen is located at the main entrance to the National Park, which is a side street of Zeeweg (N200), just north of the Kennemerdu- inen bus stop. You can also get here by taking bus No.81 from the railway station in Zandvoort or by taking the six- minute train ride to Overveen. Then walk about 15 minutes west from there along Zeeweg.QZeeweg, Overveen, www.np-zuidkennemerland.nl. Admission: free. T SAND SCULPTURES Zandvoort hosted the European Championship of Sand Sculpting back in August 2014, but the sculp- tures created by eight dierent art- ists from eight European nations including the UK, Ireland, Italy, Hol- land, Ukraine, Russia, Spain and the Czech Republic will still be on display at various locations throughout the town until November 2014. This years theme was Music & Dance and the winner was last years reigning cham- pion, Fergus Mulvany (see photo).QZandvoort aan Zee, www.zandsculpturenroute.nl. ZANDVOORTS MUSEUM Learn about the history and identity of this intriguing North Sea town at the municipal museum of Zandvoort. Although the displays are primarily aimed at the local pop- ulation, Zandvoorts Museum frequently hosts temporary exhibitions that may be of interest to foreign visitors as well. This summer, the museum will host and exhibition il- lustrating Anne Franks family holidays in Zandvoort shown via family photos.QSwalustraat 1, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 74 02 80, www.zandvoortsmuseum.nl. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: adults 2.25, children under 18 free. THU ANNE FRANK IN ZANDVOORT Not unlike many Amsterdam- mers, Anne Frank and her family took frequent trips to Zandvoort an Zee before the war. The Zand- voort Museum and the Anne Frank Foundation have created a small exhibition of photographs that show the family enjoying their holidays at Hol- lands most popular beach resort. Drop by the museum to see original snapshots from the Frank familys per- sonal albums. More info at www.zandvoortsmuseum.nl. DTM RACES IN ZANDVOORT The sensational DTM (German Touring Car Masters) hits the track at Circuit Park Zandvoort at full speed on September 27 and 28. Audi, BMW and Mer- cedes-Benz will all ght for every inch of asphalt this year in Zandvoort, whose race track has a long history just as storied as those in other parts of Europe includ- ing Germanys legendary Hockenheim. Watch all of the racing action live at Circuit Park Zandvoort. For more information visit www.circuit-zandvoort.nl. Autumn 2014 65 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket Zandvoort aan Zee CALENDAR OF EVENTS September 27 - 28 The sensational DTM hits the track at Cir- cuit Park Zandvoort at full speed and will bring some real touring car thunder to Zandvoort 28 Shanty and Marine Song Festival. 20 choirs will perform these songs at diferent loca- tions throughout the centre and on the beach October 18 - 19 Formido Final Races. Circuit Park Zand- voort hosts the fnals of the Dutch Power Pack as well as the FIA GT1 World Championship, SRO GT4 Cup and the FIA GT3 European Championship November 1 - 2 National 50+ weekend. If youre over 50 then enjoy activities throughout the weekend. All visitors will receive a goody bag full of ofers and other surprises 16 Welcoming of Sinterklaas. See what presents Santa Claus has brought with him and what he has in store for the little ones 23 Annual Holiday Market in the centre of Zandvoort. Over 300 stalls selling all kinds of gifts, souvenirs and crafts. Live music, a visit from Sin- terklaas and lots of other activities will make the market a must-see! For more info visit www.vvvzandvoort.com SHOPPING DE KAASHOEK A Dutch town just isnt a proper Dutch town without a cheese shop. De Kaashoek is a cosy little establishment that sells all kinds of cheeses and a variety of other, typically Dutch, deli- cacies. Its assortment includes homemade soups and tasty sandwiches.QHaltestraat 38, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 71 50 00. Open 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. S POLE POSITION This is one of those shops that can bring out the little boy in every man. If youre into Formula 1 collectors items includ- ing caps, shirts, miniature cars and watches, then make a pit stop at Pole Position.QKerkstraat 18, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 73 73 55, www.poleposition.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. USEFUL ADDRESSES TOURIST INFORMATION (VVV ZANDVOORT) Start your trip to the seaside resort of Zandvoort at the tourist information oce where you can pick up some brochures, get yourself some souvenirs and re all questions you have at the knowledgeable and enthu- siastic sta. The tourist oce is located in the centre of town, in a small side street o of Kerkstraat.QBakker- straat 2/b, Zandvoort aan Zee, tel. (+31) 235 71 79 47, www.vvvzandvoort.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. 66 Amsterdam In Your Pocket amsterdam.inyourpocket.com Netherlands Map Autumn 2014 67 facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket &Samhoud Places 16 Abraxas 56 Albert Cuyp Market 51 Amarylles 15 Amnesia 56 Amstel Botel 36 Amsterbike 6 Amsterdam House Hotel Eureka 11 Amsterdam Marionette Theatre 62 Amsterdam Museum 25 Amsterdam North Museum 42 Amsterdam Passenger Terminal 7 Amsterdam Seed Center 59 Amsterdam Wiechmann Hotel 11 Anne Frank House 25 Antiquariaat Lont 30 Antiquarian Hoogkamp 30 Artis Royal Zoo 28 Asian Fantasy 52 Atatrk Monument 43 Bagels & Beans 12 Balls 22 Barkode 21 Barneys 57 Bazar 50 B&B De Noorderling 38 B&B Durgerdam Countryside 38 B&B Het Oude Dijkhuis 38 Beekhoven Bikes 45 Ben & Jerrys 13 Biblos 18 Bijlmer Hans Mooren Experience 53 Bird 15 Bistro Noord 40 Black Tiger Bar 18 BlinQ 14 Blom&Blom 45 Blue Boat Company 24 Bo Cinq 21 Boom Chicago 22 Bounz 62 Bourbon Street 22 Bouwspeelplaats t Landje 62 Brewers Canal 26 British General Stores 49 Brood NDSM 38 Brooklyn Hotel 36 Brouwerij De Prael 24 Brouwerij t IJ 19 Bubbles & Wines 23 Buiksloterkerk 42 Bulldog No. 90 57 Caf Brandon 20 Caf de Ceuvel 38 Caf De Doelen 20 Caf de Klos 12 Caf de Koe 18 Cafe De Mazzel 41 Caf de Oranjerie 20 Caf de Tuin 22 Caf de Zwart 17 Caf Emmelot 18 Caf George 17 Caf Heer 19 Caf Kobalt 17 Cafe Koehuis De Pomp 41 Caf Kuijper 46 Cafe Lellebel 54 Cafe Ot en Sien 41 Caf Proust 14 Caf Rouge 54 Caf Schiller 17 Caf Slijterij Oosterling 20 Cafe t Eitje 41 Cafe t Sluisje 38 Caf Van Zuylen 17 Caf Wheels 17 Casa Rosso 18 Club Church 54 Club Escape 21 Coee Mania 34 Concerto 30 Conscious Hotel Vondelpark 48 Daar Baand 48 Dapperstraat Market 47 De Bakkerswinkel 14 De Bierfabriek 19 De Biertuin 46 de Bijenkorf 30 De Bijenkorf Kitchen 12 De Buren 14 De Druif 20 De Pannekoekenboot 41 De Pijp Petting Zoo 62 De Ponteneur 47 De Soepboer 40 De Taart van mn Tante 50 De Ysbreeker 47 Dolphins 57 Door 74 21 Dorpsplein Sloten 35 Dosa 48 Durgerdam 43 Dutch Design Hotel Artemis 34 Eastern Islands 26 EasyHotel Amsterdam Ferdinand Bolstraat 50 Easy Times 57 Eetcaf-Terras Oostoever 34 Elmas 41 Entrepotdok 26 EYE Bar-Restaurant 40 EYE Film Institute 43 Female & Partners 30 Fjllrven Brand Center 30 Flesch Records 30 Fletcher Hotel Amsterdam 52 Flower Market 27 Friday Next 49 Funny People 58 Gaasper Park 53 Gandhi 14 Gassan Diamonds 28 Gay Tourist Information Centre 54 George Deli U.S.A. 17 Golden Bend 27 Gollems Proeokaal 48 Grill Steakhouse Mama 13 Glloglu 16 Haring Naatje 39 Heineken Experience 51 Hermitage Amsterdam 28 Het Schip Museum 49 Hip Wonen 49 Holland Casino 20 Hortus Botanical Gardens 28 Hostelle 52 Hotel Amstelzicht 11 Hotel Notting Hill Amsterdam 10 Hotel Roemer 48 Houseboat Museum 25 House of Bols Cocktail and Genever Experience 51 IKEA 53 In de Olofspoort 22 In de Wildeman 19 InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam 10 Jorrit Heinen Delft Shop 30 Kalvertoren 30 Karos Citytours 27 Kastino Molenwijk 45 Keramiek Atelier Marjoke de Heer 45 Kerk Zunderdorp 42 Keytours Excursions 24 Landmarkt Amsterdam 45 La Place Amsterdam Zuidoost 52 La Tertulia 58 La Vie En Rose B&B and Apartments 11 Librije Zusje 16 Lion of Judah 58 Lloyd Hotel 46 Loetje aan het IJ 41 Ludwig Coee Bar 47 Madame Tussauds Amsterdam 24 Magic 58 Manneken Pis 13 Maritime Quarter 43 Marqt 49 Maxime Boutique Hotel 50 Media Markt 53 Mercure Amsterdam Airport 34 Metropolitan Deli 13 Mikes Bike Rental Shop 6 Mikes Bike Tours 27 Montmartre 54 Mt. Everest 40 Mulliners Wijnlokaal 23 Museum Geelvinck 25 Museum of Bags and Purses 25 Nachttheater Sugar Factory 21 National Maritime Museum Amsterdam 28 National Monument 27 NDSM-werf 43 New King 12 NH Carlton Amsterdam 10 Noon 58 Old Police Station 42 Onder de Ooievaar 20 Oriental City 12 Oud Holland 13 Pacic Parc 48 Palais de Fromage 53 Paradox 59 Pasta e Basta 14 Pelangi 14 Pietje Frietje 39 Plato 34 Players 23 Pompstation 47 Portuguese Synagogue 29 Prik 55 Proeokaal de Prael 19 Pure Lust 30 Puspita 39 Quartier Putain 13 Race Planet Amsterdam 62 Ranara 48 Reality 55 Recycled Rentals 6 Red Light Secrets 24 Rembrandt Park 35 Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel 10 Resin 59 Restaurant de Smederij 40 Retro In- & Outstyles 49 Rijksmuseum 51 Rinascimento Delftware 30 Rokerij IV 59 Rooftop Caf 15 Royal Palace Amsterdam 26 Rusland 59 Saint Morris 15 Satellite Sports Caf 23 Science Center NEMO 29 Sensi Seeds 59 Siberie 59 SkyLounge 21 Skyy Bar 35 Slainte Irish Pub 22 Sloep Delen 6 Sloten Windmill 35 Sloter Park 35 Spang Makandra 50 Starbucks 52 Stayokay Amsterdam Zeeburg 46 Stedelijk Museum 51 Stork 41 Sweet Dreamz 36 Syriana 35 Taboo 55 TCA Taxi 7 Teasers 23 Teddys Corner 13 Texaco 7 The American Book Center 30 The Bananen Bar & Club 18 The Book Exchange 30 The Button 43 The Faralda NDSM Crane Hotel Amsterdam 36 The Green Dragon 42 The Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum 26 The Kiss 53 The Old Church 24 The Oyster Club 50 The Pancake Bakery 15 The Parrot: Church of Sts. Peter and Paul 25 The Pool Hole 19 The Queens Head 55 The Rembrandt House Museum 29 The Waterhole 22 Tibet Restaurant 16 t Lieverdje 13 t Nieuwe Diep Distillery 47 Tourist Inn 11 t Pleintje 53 TunFun Speelpark 62 Van der Pekbuurt 42 Van Gogh Museum 51 Van Loon Museum 26 Veronicaschip 40 Vibes 49 Vietnam Restaurant 16 Villa Arena Woonmall 53 Vivelavie 55 VLLA 35 Vyne 23 Wagamama 12 Weber 19 WestCord Fashion Hotel Amsterdam 34 Westerkerk 25 WesterUnie 49 Whiskycaf L&B 23 Wilhelmina-Dok 40 Winston Kingdom 21 Wooden Houses 42 World of Ajax Tours 53 Yellow Bike 27 Venue Index