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Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design
Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design
Visual Dictionary of Fashion Design
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Gavin Ambrose MA
Central St Martins
Practising graphic designer.
Gavins current commercial practice
includes clients from the arts sector,
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of several books on branding, packaging
and editorial design.
ava publishing sa
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S Stole
S Stripe
A band of cloth or a shawl worn around the shoulders and left to fall
down the body front such as a fox-fur stole or mink. Deriving from the
Latin stola meaning garment or equipment, it is also a Christian
vestment, made from an embroidered band of silk. Pictured is a 1962
photograph by John French showing a silk evening dress trimmed with
fur and matching stole designed by Nina Ricci worn by Anne Larsen.
227
Anthony Fourrier
226
see Draping 94
T Top Hat
246
T Topstitch
247
218
S Shoes
Insole
219
S Shoe Types
Shoes are available in a range of different styles that readily reflect the
changing nature of fashion.
Tongue
Aglet*
Topline
Eyelets
Quarter
Throat line
Heel
Top piece
Espadrilles
A wedge shoe with a sole/heel of
braided rope.
Flip-flop
A flat sandal with one or two straps
between the big and second toes.
Also called thongs.
Slide
An open-toed and open-back sandal
with one band across the toes.
Ballet flat
A flat shoe with a round toe and thin
sole.
Mary Jane
A shoe with a strap across the
vamp.
Ankle strap
A sandal with an adjustable strap
attached to the back of the shoe
passing across the ankle.
Court
A closed-toe shoe with a medium to
high heel with pointed or
rounded toe.
Clog
A shoe with a wooden, often
platform sole. Also called mules.
Stiletto
A court shoe with a high,
spiked heel.
Vamp or upper
Welt
Toe cap
Outsole
Each page or spread contains a single entry and, where appropriate, a printers hand symbol
provides page references to other related and relevant entries.
278
19011910
Edwardian Fashions
The Belle Epoque period
saw fashions become more
cosmopolitan under the
influence of international
travel and art nouveau.
Sports clothing also
developed for the leisure
class. Paul Poiret, the
creator of harem pants and
the first couturier to launch
a perfume, called Rosina,
established his fashion
house in 1906.
1913
Coco Chanel
Modernist French fashion
designer Gabrielle Bonheur
Coco Chanel (18831971)
opened a boutique in
Deauville, France. Chanel
went on to revolutionise
womens fashion with the
Chanel suit, chain-belted
jerseys and sunglasses with
elegant simplicity. Chanel
popularised the little black
dress and started the trend
for sun tans, having got
burnt on a 1923 cruise.
19141918
The First World War
The First World War saw
women adopt mens clothing
as they went to work in
factories. The military
influence on fashion grew
with garments such as the
trenchcoat created by
Thomas Burberry, made of a
waterproof heavy-duty
cotton drill or poplin.
Burberry also invented
gabardine and the red,
white, black, and peach
Nova check that became
known as his trademark
Burberry check.
279
c.1920
The Flapper Style
New styles developed in the
roaring twenties to cater
for flappers; young women
who wore bobbed hair, short
skirts and make-up,
listened to jazz and partied
hard. The flapper style
accentuated a thin,
elongated boyish shape with
straight and loose dresses.
Underwear developed to
cater for this new lifestyle
with bras that flattened the
bust and step-in knickers.
1920s
Fashionable Fragrance
The decade that saw the
rise of French designer Coco
Chanel. In 1921, Chanel
No.5 perfume, the first
perfume to be sold
worldwide, was launched.
Later in the decade Chanel
creates the LBD or little
black dress, a variation on
the cocktail dress.
1926
The Rise and Fall of
Hemlines
Hemlines began rising after
1910 and soon raced up the
leg to become near kneelength by 1926, in order to
be compatible with the
Charleston dancing style.
Rayon, or artificial silk,
became increasingly popular
and caused a decline in
cotton use. In 1926, Waldo
Semon found a way to
plasticise PVC, making it
commercially viable.
Introduction
Tomasz Slowinski
Andrei Nekrassov
7
Far left: A modern
interpretation of millinery,
in the form of a bandana by
Rudy Chandra.
Mosista Pambudi
Tomasz Slowinski
8
Right: A sketch of a design
for a mens casual clothing
ensemble.
Najin
Barrymore
Wing
Ascot
Tab
Windsor
10
Natalia Mikhaylova
11
Above left: Strawberry Thief Chintz, a floral fabric designed by William Morris in 1883.
Above right: An illustration of a bias-cut dress.
Contents
Prologue
How to get the most out
of this book
Introduction
The Dictionary
A
Accessories
Advertising
Alpaca
Androgynous
Anime
Appliqu
Art Direction
Avant-garde
B
Baby Doll
Badla
Bags
Balaclava
Balfour
Bandana
Bandeau
Basque
Beadwork
Bekishe
Bias
Bikini
Binding
Block
Block Printing
Blouse
Bodice
Bohemian
Bondage
Bonding
Boning
Bonnet
12
4
6
16
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
Bootleg
Boots
Boutique
Brand
Bra
Bra Sizes
Breeches
Bridal
Brocade
Broderie Anglaise
Burlesque
Burqa
Button
C
Calico
Camisole
Capri Pants
Cardigan
Catwalk
Chemise
Chic
Coat
Cocktail Dress
Collar
Collection
Colour Wheel
Colour Wheel Selections
Concept
Contrast
Corsage
Corset
Costume
Cravat
Crinoline
Crochet
Cuffs
Cummerbund
Cyber
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
13
D
Damask
Dandy
Darts
Deconstruction
Deerstalker
Denim
Distressed
Double-tee Top
Drainpipe
Draping
Dress
Duffel
Dummy
Dye
E
Edwardian
Elastic
Elizabethan
Embroidery
Ensemble
Epaulette
Eroticism
Eveningwear
F
Fabric
Fashion Cycle
Fastenings
Fedora
Fetish
Fez
Flapper
Flax
Floral
Footwear Composition
Fragrance
G
Garment
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
Garter
Gauntlets
Geisha
Geometric
Gingham
Glam
Grading
Grain
H
Halter-neck
Hats
Haute Couture
Heels
Helmet
Hem
Hippy
Hosiery
Houndstooth
I
Illustration
Industrial Revolution
Inspiration
Invites
J
Jacket
Jacquard Weaving
Jewellery
Jodhpurs
Juxtaposition
K
Kilt
Kimono
Kitsch
Knitting
L
La Gazette du Bon Ton
Lapel
Leather
119
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
14
Line
Lingerie
Logo
Look Book
M
Macintosh
Magazine
Man-made Fibres
Mannequin
Mao Suits
Mary Jane
Measurements (men)
Measurements (women)
Media
Micro-skirt
Militaria
Millinery
Minimalism
Mini/Maxi
Mod
Model
Mohair
Monochromatic
N
Nape
Natural Fibres
Neck
Nudity
Nylon
P
Panama
Pasties
Patch
Pattern (fabric)
Pattern (paper)
Peacock Revolution
Peek-a-boo
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
174
175
176
177
178
179
180
181
182
183
184
185
Petticoat
Photography
Piercing
Pile
Pinafore
Pinking Shears
Placket
Plaid
Pleats
Pockets
Poncho
Prt--Porter
Print
Protein Fabrics
Pullover
Punk
PVC
R
Regency
Repeat
Reversible
Ribbing
Ribbon
Rockabilly
Ruff
S
Safari Suit
Satin
Seam
Season
Selvage
Shank
Shape
Sheer
Shoes
Shoe Types
Silhouette
186
187
188
189
190
191
192
193
194
195
196
197
198
199
200
201
202
203
204
205
206
207
208
209
210
211
212
213
214
215
216
217
218
219
220
15
Sketch & Sketchbook
Skirt Length
Slogan
Spaghetti Strap
Stitches
Stole
Stripe
Subcultures
Suit
Symbols
T
Tailoring
Tailors Chalk
Tank Top
Tards
Tartan
Tattoo
Tea Length
Tessellation
Theme
Thong
Tie
Toile
Toile de Jouy
Top Hat
Topstitch
Train
Trench Coat
Tudor
Turban
Tutu
Tuxedo
Twin Set
U
Underlying Fabrics
Uniform
Utilitarian
221
222
223
224
225
226
227
228
229
230
232
233
234
235
236
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
V
Variegated
Vent
Victoriana
Vintage
Vogue
W
Waistcoat
Warp & Weft
Weave
Welt Stitch
Wool
Worth, Frederick Charles
Y
Yarn
Yoke
Z
Zeitgeist
The Details
The Timeline
Conclusion
Acknowledgements
Index
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
265
266
267
268
269
270
271
274
286
287
288
The Dictionary
18
Zoe Irvin
A Accessories
A Advertising
19
A Alpaca
Nicolas Raymond
20
Wool from the Andean mammal, the alpaca, is spun into a fine
yarn and often woven with other natural fibres, such as protein
fibres. Alpaca wool produces a luxurious fabric available in a
range of natural colours and is used for sweaters, wraps, hats
and gloves, and other woollens. Alpaca wool is hypo-allergenic
and naturally flame retardant. Once reserved for Inca royalty, it
is warmer than cashmere, lightweight and extremely soft.
Pictured is an alpaca near the Inca city of Machu Picchu in
Peru. Alpaca wool is available in various degrees of fineness:
Royal Alpaca = 19 microns
Baby Alpaca = 22.5 microns
Super Fine Alpaca = 25.5 microns
Coarse Alpaca = 32 microns.
A Androgynous
21
ChipPix
A Anime
22
zmajdoo
23
mypokcik
A Appliqu
A Art Direction
24
25
Mosista Pambudi
A Avant-garde
26
Zoe Irvin
B Baby Doll
A short nightgown or nglige (and even daywear when worn over leggings
or skinny jeans). A baby doll nightdress is designed to be provocative and
is often made from a transparent fabric, such as chiffon and decorated
with lace, bows, appliqus and other adornments. Baby dolls typically
have a hemline that competes with a micro-skirt for shortness, sitting at
least six inches above the knee and usually short enough that underwear
is visible. Baby doll dresses were launched as outerwear in 1957/58, but
became popular in the 1960s and 1970s. Baby dolls are thought to be
named after the 1956 movie of the same name, starring Carroll Baker.
see Appliqu 23
B Badla
27
Sid B. Viswakumar
B Bags
Bags come in all shapes
and sizes. As well as their
obvious practical uses,
bags can instantly make a
fashion statement. Made
from leather, plastic or
fabric, bags can be worn
over the shoulder, across
the torso, on the back or
simply held in the hand.
Bags are perhaps the
most easily accessible
designer item, thanks to
their relative affordability
and availability through
retail stores. This also
makes them a useful tool
for the designer, as they
are a good way to
advertise a brand. Louis
Vuittons hugely popular
signature bags, as
pictured in this image,
have now become
something of a status
symbol and are a good
example of this.
28
B Balaclava
29
Zoe Irvin
B Balfour
30
B Bandana
31
Mosista Pambudi
A piece of cloth tied around the head, neck or over the mouth.
Bandana has been adopted into the English language, via
Potuguese, from the Hindi word meaning to tie, and the often
brightly-coloured garments are used for protection against sun
and dust, in addition to being useful for wiping sweat away
from the face. Bandanas have formed part of the ensemble
worn by cowboys, pirates, farmers and more recently, gang
members. Pictured is a modern interpretation of the bandana
by Rudy Chandra.
32
Zoe Irvin
B Bandeau
33
A close-fitting piece of
lingerie that emphasises the
figure. Similar in style to a
corset, but allowing for freer
movement, a basque extends
past the waist and over the
hips and often includes bra
cups and detachable
suspenders. As with the
corset, a basque includes
vertical boning or seams, and
features a bodice with a laceup or hook-and-eye
fastening. Pictured is an
illustration of Victorian
basques, worn as part of an
ensemble (above), and a
contemporary basque
design (right).
Zoe Irvin
B Basque
34
Brenda Bailey
B Beadwork
B Bekishe
Rob Swanson
see Costume 78
35
B Bias
36
Zoe Irvin
A cut made diagonally, usually at a 45-degree angle, against the weave of a fabric.
Garments cut on the bias often have more stretch and may appear softer than those
cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain.
B Bikini
37
B Binding
38
B Block
39
Pitch marks
Marks that meet or are aligned when
the garment is pieced together
before stitching.
Bust line
Half bust measurement and
allowance.
Hip line
Half hip measurement and
allowance.
B Block Printing
40
Elena Ray
B Blouse
Alexander Gitlits
41
42
B Bodice
B Bohemian
43
ChipPix
Mosista Pambudi
B Bondage
44
Luba V Nel
gx y uwtzx zxtM
ux
t u|wx
u|wyw
uw {txx
v{t| ux
vt
ztz
{w
xt{x 9 xtw
tx xt{x
B Bonding
45
B Boning
46
Cindy Hughes
47
B Bonnet
B Bootleg
48
Anthony Fourrier
B Boots
49
A type of durable footwear that also covers the leg; worn for protection, hygiene and
style for several hundred years. Various different styles are in common usage:
Cowboy
A high, arched boot with Cuban heel and
ornamental stitching that is traditionally a work
boot worn by cowboys. Normally made from
leather, however, snake, alligator and lizard
skin are also used.
Go-go
A boot created in the 1960s to be worn for
dancing, often worn with a miniskirt or dress
and popularised by Nancy Sinatra in the song
These Boots Are Made For Walking.
Kinky
A full-length boot with high heels that extends
to the thigh or crotch, typically produced in
patent leather or PVC in bright colours and
often associated with dominatrix or fetishism.
Knee high
A boot rising to just below the knee and tight
around the leg and ankle. It may be fastened
with laces, buckles or a zip, or can simply be
pulled on.
terekhov igor
Platform
A boot with a thick sole or a combination of a
thick sole and high heel, which is often brightly
coloured and glitzy. Popularised by glam
rockers in the 1970s, platform boots are also
part of the wardrobe of the cyber subculture.
Ugg
A boot made from sheepskin with a fleece
lining and flat sole, originating in Australia as
a type of slipper to protect against the cold.
Ugg boots are typically worn with jeans.
B Boutique
50
Xavier Young
A retail outlet that specialises in fashion or jewellery. A boutique (from the French word for small
shop) tends to sell clothing created by a particular designer (or limited range of designers),
rather than clothes produced for the mass market, although this distinction is now blurring.
Pictured is the storefront of the boutique of English designer Alexander McQueen. Clothes
from McQueens collection can be seen displayed on mannequins in the window, with
the brand name above the door.
B Brand
51
B Bra
52
Brassiere or Bra:
An article of underwear designed to lift and support the bust, the
bra consists of cups, centre panel, band running around the torso and
usually two shoulder straps. Bra is an abbreviation of the word brassiere,
itself from the French, brassire, meaning bodice or childs vest.
The contemporary bra design was patented by American Mary
Phelps-Jacobs in 1914 and consisted of two silk handkerchiefs tied
together with ribbon to make straps. Cup sizes were introduced in
1935 and the development of synthetic fibres, such as nylon, Lycra
and polyester have seen bras become more lightweight, flexible and
seamless. Many types of bra now exist and have different functions,
support capability and visual appearance. However, an estimated
80% of women wear the wrong sized bra.
Agb
Types of bra:
Full cup, Balcony, Half cup, Quarter cup, Push up,
Plunge, Underwired, Soft cup, Multiway,
Strapless, Maternity,
Sports.
B Bra Sizes
53
Code
AA
FF
GG
HH
JJ
1012
1214
1416
1618
1820
13
15
18
20
23
26
28
30
32.5
0 to 0.5
0.5 to 1
1 to 2
2 to 3
3 to 4
10
11
12
13
Code letters that relate to a given cup size. Bra size is determined by three
measurements, although garments produced by different manufacturers vary a great
deal. The frame size or underband is a tight measure around the torso and directly
under the breasts (1). Add five inches if this is an odd number or four inches if it is
even. Bust size is measured around the chest (2), including the fullest part of the
breasts. Cup size is the difference between bust and frame sizes and is converted
into a letter as per the table (above).
B Breeches
54
A trouser-like
garment worn by
men from the
late 16th to
early 19th
centuries.
Breeches have
varied in length
but are typically
fastened just
below the knee.
This image
shows a coat,
breeches and
waistcoat
ensemble from
England. Notice
how the
breeches fit
tightly just below
the knee.
B Bridal
55
Materials used to produce the dress, veil and related garments that comprise a wedding outfit.
Bridalwear tends to use the richest, boldest fabrics within the budget available, such as silk and
satin either with a plain or floral design. In Western culture, wedding dresses tend to be white,
ivory, cream or similar neutral colours a tradition that is commonly credited to the wedding of
Queen Victoria of England and Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha in 1840.
Left: The 1840 wedding of Queen
Victoria and Prince Albert, which
began the vogue for white
bridalwear.
Below left: A highly decorated
design by Michael Woodward.
Below centre: Detail of a bridal
gown by Gordana Sermek.
Below right: A simpler design by
Gordana Sermek
Gordana Sermek
Michael Woodward
Gordana Sermek.
56
Gina Goforth
B Brocade
B Broderie Anglaise
57
B Burlesque
58
Naomi Hasegawa
B Burqa
59
B Button
60
marymary
C Calico
61
62
Dana Heinemann
C Camisole
C Capri Pants
63
Zoe Irvin
Womens calf-length
trousers created by
Italian designer Emilio
Pucci in 1949 and first
sold in his boutique on
the island of Capri just
off the coast of Naples
in Italy. They are also
sometimes called pedal
pushers or clam
diggers, though there
are some subtle
distinctions between
these: Capris are a
slimline pant ending
just below the knee,
usually with a small
inverted v at the hem
on the side to ease
movement. Pedal
pushers give a looser
fit and are longer, as
they end at the calf.
Clam diggers also
extend to the calf, but
are baggier. Once just
for women, calf-length
trousers are now also
worn by men.
64
Natalia Mikhaylova
C Cardigan
see Balaclava 29
C Catwalk
65
Kateryna Potrokhova
C Chemise
66
A simple, smock-like
garment with
sleeves, but no collar
or cuffs. Chemises
became popular in
the Middle Ages
when women wore
them under gowns or
robes and men under
doublets and robes.
Typically made from
finely woven cotton,
linen or silk, they
are essentially a
loose-fitting, straighthanging dress
without a waist.
Pictured is a ladies
cotton shift or
chemise and cotton
drawers from
England, c.1834.
C Chic
67
Stylish or smart. Chic (a French word adopted by the British) is often used to describe
how individual garments or ensembles make a person look, but what is and what is not
chic is difficult to define. Chic refers to someone who wears stylish clothes with ease
and whose outfit is arresting, modern and elegant. Anne Gunning, photographed here
by John French, appears chic in this figure-hugging velveteen evening coat, which
creates an elegant, elongated profile accentuated by her tied-back hair and contrasting
white gloves and hat.
C Coat
68
Outerwear worn by
men and women over
an outfit to provide
protection from the
elements. A coat is
usually at least thigh
length, with long
sleeves and a front
opening, which may
be fastened with
buttons, zips,
poppers, toggles or
belts. Coats provide
thermal insulation
and are often
waterproof. Coats are
available in many
styles, such as a
great coat, duffel
coat, trench coat or
fur coat. Pictured is
an evening dress and
coat created by
English designer
Ossie Clark (a
leading designer from
19641974).
C Cocktail Dress
69
Zoe Irvin
A dress worn by women at cocktail parties, semi-formal and formal occasions, with a
form-fitting waist and skirt extending to anywhere from just above the knee to about two
inches above the ankle, known as tea length. Cocktail dresses may be simply or richly
decorated and use a variety of exquisite materials such as silk, satin and chiffon. A
variation of the cocktail dress is the LBD (Little Black Dress) created in the 1920s by
Coco Chanel, which was designed to fit any woman and not show any stains. These
black dresses are versatile and can be worn dressed up or down.
C Collar
70
C Collection
71
Natalia Mikhaylova
C Colour Wheel
72
Warm
Tertiary
Red-orange
Secondary
Red
Primary
Magenta
Tertiary
Yellow-orange
Tertiary
Red-purple
Primary
Yellow
Secondary
Blue
Tertiary
Yellow-green
Tertiary
Blue-purple
Secondary
Green
Primary
Cyan
Tertiary
Blue-green
Cool
73
Using the colour wheel, a designer can select harmonious colour combinations, such as
complementary or contrasting colours, which face each other on the wheel, or triads, any three
colours that are equidistant from one another. In any design, a dominant colour is usually
supported by subordinate and accent colours.
Monochrome
Any single colour on
the wheel.
Complementary
Colours that face each
other on the wheel.
These provide strong
contrast and so their
use will result in a more
vibrant design. Also
called contrasting
colours.
Split complements
Three colours that
comprise the two
adjacent colours to
the (unselected) colour
that is complementary
to the principle colour
selection.
Triads
Triads are any three
colours that are
equidistant on the colour
wheel. As all three colours
contrast with one another,
this provides a visual
tension. The primary and
secondary colour spaces
are triads.
Analogous
The two colours on either
side of a principle colour
selection. Analogous
colours provide a
harmonious and
natural blend.
Mutual complements
A triad of equidistant
colours together with
the complementary colour
of the central one of
the three.
Near complements
A colour adjacent to the
complementary colour
of the principle colour
selection.
Double complements
Any two adjacent
colours and their two
complements.
C Concept
74
C Contrast
75
A colour palette in
which the different
hues stand out
against each other.
Contrasting colours
can be used to create
vivid fabric designs,
such as the Chanel
ensemble
(19371938)
pictured. Some
colour combinations
project and are more
contrasting as shown
in the panels below.
Yellow and cyan
project from and
contrast with red,
while magenta
recedes into it.
C Corsage
76
see Corset 77
C Corset
77
C Costume
78
C Cravat
79
C Crinoline
80
A stiffened petticoat structure designed to support the skirts of a womans dress, which
eventually evolved into caged or hooped underskirt frames. During the 1840s flounces
and pleats gave full skirts the illusion of greater width, but as the decade progressed
and more petticoats were added to create an even broader shape, the required
minimum of six petticoats was heavy, bulky, hot and uncomfortable. The caged crinoline
was patented in 1856 by American W. S. Thomson and had steel hoops attached to
vertical tapes that descended from a band around the wearers waist. The crinoline gave
the required bell shape, but reduced the need for so many layers of petticoats, thus
making the outfit lighter and allowing for freer leg movement. But with a maximum
diameter of 180cm (six feet) a crinoline could be awkward to manoeuvre and a gust of
wind could reveal more leg than was considered decent. By 1864 the crinoline was
modified and the dome shape disappeared; the front and sides were contracted in favour
of volume at the rear, for example, the bustle.
C Crochet
81
C Cuffs
Double
Angled
Round
Anthony Fourrier
Straight
82
C Cummerbund
83
84
Gordana Sermek
C Cyber
D Damask
85
D Dandy
86
Pamela Moore
D Darts
87
Zoe Irvin
D Deconstruction
88
Gina Smith
The exploration of
clothing structure where
garments may be literally
taken apart in some way
and put back together
unfinished, inside out or
deteriorating. Fashion
designer, Vivienne
Westwood was a pioneer
of the punk look, an early
manifestation of
deconstruction in fashion.
The trend shows an
unwillingness to conform
to regular or accepted
ways of dressing. During
the early 1980s, John
Gallianos collections
included jackets worn
upside down and inside
out. Deconstructed clothes
continue in contemporary
designs and rely on faded,
ripped or torn fabrics
without finish and with
frayed edges. The outfit in
the image could be
described as
deconstructed due to the
treatment of the fabric
with irregular seams, lack
of colour and absence of
the second arm that we
would expect to see.
D Deerstalker
89
D Denim
90
Vladislav Gurfinkel
Durable, cotton fabric, primarily used to make jeans. The word denim
is a contraction of serge de Nmes serge (a durable twilled, woollen
or worsted fabric), from Nmes (a town in France). Identified by a
diagonal ribbing on the reverse (created by passing the weft under two
or more warp fibres), denim is traditionally dyed with the blue pigment
obtained from indigo dye. Since the late 19th century a synthetic
substitute has been used instead.
D Distressed
91
Dana Heinemann
D Double-tee Top
92
Zoe Irvin
D Drainpipe
93
Anthony Fourrier
D Draping
94
A garment made from unstitched cloth that is held to the body with
some kind of fastening. Draped garments include togas, saris, sarongs,
shawls, capes and mantles, such as the six-yard-long Robe of State
that formed part of the coronation robes of Queen Elizabeth II, as
pictured in this photograph by Cecil Beaton. The crimson velvet
mantle is edged with ermine and two rows of handmade embroidered
gold lace and gold filigree work and was made by Messrs Ede &
Ravenscroft of Chancery Lane, London.
D Dress
95
A garment consisting of a skirt with attached (or matching) bodice, giving the
effect of a one-piece garment. A dress, frock or gown is typically worn by women
and is made from light- to mid-weight fabrics such as denim, jersey, worsted, or
poplin although other materials such as silk, satin, wool and velvet are also
used. Fashion plays a determining factor in prevailing hemline lengths. Pictured
is a velvet cocktail dress (1969) designed by Valentino, featuring cap sleeves and
a cummerbund of braid embroidered with diamants.
D Duffel
96
Anthony Fourrier
see Coat 68
D Dummy
97
A mould of the human form that is used for draping fabrics and
making clothes. Also called a tailors dummy, the different parts on
some models can be moved to approximate different body sizes. This
should not be confused with a mannequin, which is used to display
clothes in a retail environment.
Front
Back
Shoulder
Neck width
Chest
Band width
Bust
Neck to waist
Waist
Waist to hip
Hip
Body rise
(measured
when sitting)
Waist to knee
Knee
D Dye
98
Benjamin Mercer
99
E Edwardian
E Elastic
100
Branislav Ostojic
101
E Elizabethan
102
Iurii Konoval
E Embroidery
see Appliqu 23, Beading 34, Broderie Anglaise 57, Fabric 107
E Ensemble
103
E Epaulette
104
see Collar 70
E Eroticism
105
E Eveningwear
106
An ensemble
suitable for
formal events.
Eveningwear for
men is either a
white tie with
tailcoat or black
tie with a dinner
jacket or tuxedo.
Women may wear
a ballgown,
evening gown or
cocktail dress. An
evening gown is
typically a long,
loose-fitting
garment in silk,
velvet, satin or
chiffon, ranging
from tea length
to full length.
Pictured is an
evening dress
created by Jean
Muir (1996).
see Cocktail Dress 69, Dress 95, Skirt Length 222, Tuxedo 253
F Fabric
107
Lam
A woven fabric using metallic gold
or silver yarns, often used for
eveningwear as tissue lam,
hologram lam and pearl lam.
Burlap
A dense, coarse, woven fabric made of
jute or other vegetable fibres, which is
strong and inexpensive, often used for
sacking. Also called hessian.
Lace
A lightweight fabric patterned with
open holes where cotton or other
thread is looped, twisted or braided
to other threads independent from a
backing fabric.
Gingham
A fabric made from dyed cotton
warp yarns. Originally a stripped
fabric, it became checked in the
18th century when production
started in Manchester.
Velvet
A tufted fabric made from silk,
cotton or synthetic fibres with evenly
distributed cut threads to give a
short, dense pile.
Corduroy
A textile of twisted fibres that lay
parallel when woven, forming
parallel ribs or cords called wales.
Jersey
A knitted fabric with a definite
smooth side that faces out on
garments and a textured inside.
Organza
A thin, plain-weave, sheer fabric
made from silk or synthetic fibres,
often used for bridal and
eveningwear.
Tweed
A rough, unfinished woollen fabric
with plain or twill weave and check,
twill or herringbone pattern, used
for outerwear due to its durability
and moisture resistance.
F Fashion Cycle
108
The changing tastes and trends that over time are regenerated and
repeated. Dress hemlines go up, down and up again as the fashion
cycle and zeitgeist change and people look for the fresh and new.
Inspiration for new fashions often comes from revisiting and reusing the
fads and fashions from previous decades in a cycle, such as Lavers Law,
developed by James Laver in Taste and Fashion in 1945, and showing
how peoples reaction to a fashion change and mellow over time.
Indecent
Shameless
Outr
Smart
Dowdy
Hideous
Ridiculous
Amusing
Quaint
Charming
Romantic
Beautiful
F Fastenings
109
Zip
A device invented by Elias Howe in
1851 for temporarily joining two
edges of fabric by interlocking
metal or plastic teeth.
Button
A small disc or knob on a garment
that passes through a fabric or
thread loop to hold two pieces of
fabric together.
Velcro
A hook-and-loop system that
sticks on contact, invented by
Georges de Mestral in 1941 and
based on burdock seeds. Velcro is
a contraction of the French velours
(velvet) and croch (hooked).
Rivet
A permanent, two-piece metal
fastener commonly used to fix the
pockets of denim jeans.
Buckle
A metal clasp used to retain the
end of a strap. From the Latin,
buccula, buckles were commonly
used on boots before the zip
was invented.
Tie side
A bikini, dress or top that has
strings or straps that tie at
the side.
Frogging
A braided button and loop that
provide an ornamental garment
fastening. Also called frog button
or Chinese frog due to its use on
oriental clothes.
Press studs
A pair of interlocking metal discs
used in place of buttons that fasten clothing with a snapping
sound. Also called snap fastener or
popper, they are easier for children
to use than buttons.
F Fedora
110
F Fetish
Michel Isola
111
F Fez
112
F Flapper
113
A loose-fitting shift
dress with little shape
and no sleeves, the
flapper dress tended
to be calf-length and
with a waistline
dropped to the hips.
The flapper
characterised the midto late 1920s, and the
Charleston- and jazzinspired hedonism of
the roaring twenties.
The flapper dress
allowed women
greater movement
while dancing and
also presented elegant
lines. Pictured is a
dress by Voisin,
France (c.1925).
F Flax
114
115
F Floral
F Footwear Composition
116
Upper
Part of a shoe that
covers the upper foot
surface, commonly
made from leather,
plastic, fabric or
rubber.
Leather
Hide or skin
that retains its
original fibrous
structure.
Coated Leather
Treated hide or
skin that retains
its original
fibrous
structure, but
will not rot after
absorbing water.
Outer Sole
The bottom of a shoe,
attached to the upper
and in contact with
the ground.
Textile
Fabric used to
produce uppers,
such as canvas.
Other Materials
Plastic, rubber,
silk or any
other material
used in shoe
production.
117
Guido Mocafico
F Fragrance
G Garment
118
Yoke
Collar
Lapel
Lapel hole or
buttonhole
Pocket
Single-breasted
Sleeve
Button /
buttonhole
Camp pockets
Squared, seamed
pockets sewn to
the outside of the
garment.
Cuff
Vent
Waistband
Carriers or belt loops
Rivet
Turn up
Hip pocket
Pocket sewn on the front of a
garment at hip height.
Hem
Seam
119
Jurgita Genyte
G Garter
G Gauntlets
120
G Geisha
121
G Geometric
122
Designs based on
simple shapes such
as the circle,
square, triangle
and trapezoid. This
Yves Saint Laurent
dress carries a
geometric design
appropriated from
the work of Piet
Mondrian.
G Gingham
123
124
Zoe Irvin
G Glam
G Grading
125
US
UK
Euro
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
48
G Grain
126
Direction
A piece of fabric typically has a right and wrong side due to the way the warp and weft are combined.
Right side
The right side of this cord fabric features
prominent parallel ridges that proceed in
the direction that the fabric was woven.
Wrong side
The wrong side of the fabric has no
clear pattern.
127
Kenny Yeoh
H Halter-neck
H Hats
128
Crown
The part covering the top of the head.
Brim
A broad, circular rim that juts out stiffly
from the base of the hats crown.
Sweatband
The inside part of the hat
that touches the head of
the wearer.
Hatband
A strip of material at
the junction of the crown
and brim, holding the
hats size.
A piece of clothing worn on the head, with a high crown and brim.
Bowler
A hard, felt hat with rounded crown to offer protection while riding. The bowler was created for Thomas Coke, second
earl of Leicester, in 1850 by James and George Lock and was named after a prototype produced by Thomas and
William Bowler.
Homburg
A stiff, felt hat with a crease or centre dent from front to back of the crown, but with no pinches and a sharply turned up
brim all the way around. The homburg was popularised by Edward VII of England after he visited Germany.
Stetson
A wide-brimmed hat with tall crown produced in the 19th century by the John B. Stetson Company in Missouri, USA. It
provides both sun and rain protection.
Slouch
A wide-brimmed, felt hat with chinstrap of British origin, commonly used by the Australian army.
see Deerstalker 89, Fedora 110, Fez 112, Helmet 131, Top Hat 246
129
Exclusive custom-fitted
fashions that are the
pinnacle of the fashion
industry. Haute couture,
which is French for high
sewing or dressmaking, has
become a global industry
that drives clothing retail
and a significant part of
magazine sales. Haute
couture garments are made
to measure and are
typically produced from
high-quality materials,
which are sewn with
extreme attention to detail
and finish, often by hand.
Haute couture originated in
18th-century France when
fashions of the court at
Versailles were imitated
across Europe. The modern
industry was begun by
Charles Frederick Worth
(18261895), who created
one-of-a-kind designs and
prepared designs shown on
live models. Pictured is an
evening dress created by
French designer Coco
Chanel in the late
20th century.
H Haute Couture
H Heels
130
An element called a top piece that is added to the rear end of the sole
of a shoe, lifting the back of the shoe away from the ground. The heel
may be made of wood covered with leather or another material
presented in a range of styles. Pictured is a pair of platform shoes
(1993) in bright blue leather stamped with an animal skin pattern,
designed by Vivienne Westwood.
Kitten A low-height heel tapering to a point that is set forward.
Stiletto A high, tapered, narrow heel, often containing a metal rod similar to a stiletto knife, after which it is named.
Court A medium- to high-block heel.
Cuban A broad, medium-height heel that has a slightly tapered back and straight front often used with boots.
Wedge A broad, wedge-shaped heel that is an extension of the shoe sole.
131
H Helmet
H Hem
132
133
H Hippy
H Hosiery
134
Aaron Twa
Tight-fitting knitted
garments worn on
the feet and legs.
Hosiery is made in
various designs
and mesh
configurations with
stretching fabrics,
such as nylon and
Lycra, which help it
to mould to the body
form. Formerly,
hosiery made from
wool and silk were
worn with garters or
suspender belts to stop
them falling down. The
name hosiery comes
from hose, Middle
English for
stocking.
H Houndstooth
135
I Illustration
136
Exit_Nume
137
I Industrial Revolution
138
I Inspiration
I Invites
139
J Jacket
140
see Coat 68
J Jacquard Weaving
141
Gina Goforth
J Jewellery
142
J Jodhpurs
143
J Juxtaposition
144
+
see Dandy 86, Leather 151, Tartan 236237, Victoriana 260
K Kilt
145
K Kimono
146
147
Nuno Silva
K Kitsch
K Knitting
148
Purl knit
A stitch that stretches the same amount in both directions.
Rib knit
A single knit used for cuffs and waistbands designed to
stretch in the cross-wise direction without losing shape.
Cable knit
A method that sees stitches knitted in different orders by
passing some stitches to a cable needle while other
stitches are knitted, before knitting the passed stitches.
149
L Lapel
The two
triangular pieces
of cloth that
extend from the
collar of a suit
jacket. The
lapels fold back
on to the front of
the jacket and
leave a
triangular space
between them,
such as that
pictured here.
The points of the
lapels vary in
length and shape
and are
influenced by
the fashion of
the day.
150
L Leather
151
L Line
152
Gordana Sermek
see Bias 36, Neck 176, Silhouette 220, Skirt Length 222
L Lingerie
A variety of garments used by women as underwear, made from
materials such as silk, cotton, satin, polyester and nylon.
Lingerie derives from linge, French for linen. Lingerie can be
a single piece that drapes, such as a babydoll or nglige,
or that has a tighter fit, such as a basque, corset, bustier
or body-stocking. Upper garments include a camisole,
chemise, brassiere and corselette. These are typically
worn with shorts or knickers, such as boy shorts, cami
shorts, French knickers, g-strings or thongs. Other
lingerie items include the suspender belt,
garters, stockings and tights.
Babydoll
A short nightgown or nglige used
for nightwear.
Basque
A tight, form-fitting bodice or coat.
Boy shorts
Knickers that resemble male shorts.
Camisole
A sleeveless and tight-fitting top.
Corset
A bodice that moulds and shapes the
torso.
Corselette
A brassiere with a girdle.
G-string
A narrow garment that passes between the buttocks
and is attached to a band around the hips.
see Baby Doll 26, Basque 33, Bra 52, Thong 242
153
L Logo
154
see Brand 51
L Look Book
155
156
Germany Feng
M Macintosh
see Coat 68
M Magazine
157
158
Philip Date
M Man-made Fibres
M Mannequin
159
Andrey Armyagov
see Dummy 97
160
Anthony Fourrier
M Mao Suits
see Collar 70
S Duffett
M Mary Jane
161
M Measurements (men)
162
7
5
6
4
1 Collar
2 Chest 3 Waist
4 Inside Leg
5 Sleeve
The collar is measured around the neck base where a shirt fits. The chest is a measure around the
fullest part with the tape held close under the arms to ensure it is high up at the back and over the
shoulder blades. The waist is measured around the natural waistline over any under garments that
may be worn. The inside leg is measured from the top of the leg at the crotch to the base of the
shin or hemline. The sleeve is measured from the neck point where the collar seam is on the
shoulder line along the shoulder and down the outer sleeve to the cut edge. The outside leg is
measured from the natural waistline to the bottom of the shin, and the centre back length is from
the centre of the neck at the collar seam to the waist.
M Measurements (women)
163
1 Neck
2 Bust
3 Waist
4 Hips
The neck is measured around the largest part of neck. The bust is measured under the arms and
around the fullest part of the chest. The natural waistline can be found by tying a string snugly
around the waist and then reaching down the side of each leg. The string will ride to the natural
waist where it can be measured. Hip size is a measure of the fullest part of the low hip. The inside
leg or inseam is a measurement from the crotch to the ankle on the inside of the leg. This can be
measured by holding a ruler between the legs at the crotch and measuring from the ankle to this.
M Media
164
Marker pen
Pens with their own ink-source and
a porous tip that may be permanent
or non-permanent. Quick, easy to
use and rapid drying.
Watercolour pencils
Typically a wooden sheath
containing a range of solid pigment
strips that produce coloured marks.
Quick and easy to use, watercolour
pencils allow a degree of colour
mixing on the paper.
Pastel
A stick of pure powdered pigment
and binder. Pastels are quick and
easy to use, and allow colour mixing
on the paper. However, they can be
messy and designs need to be fixed
after completion to avoid smudging.
Gouache
Brush- or blade-applied paint
consisting of pigment suspended in
water with white pigment. Gouache
is more opaque and has more
intense hues than watercolour paint
and requires drying time.
Acrylic paint
A brush- or blade-applied fastdrying paint containing pigment
suspended in an acrylic polymer
emulsion. Water resistant, acrylic
paint can be thinned with water and
made into washes and does not
require solvent use.
Watercolour paint
Brush-applied paint with finely
ground pigment suspended or
dissolved in water. Watercolour or
watermedia gives a soft,
translucent, quick-drying colour that
allows show-through.
165
Zoe Irvin
M Micro-skirt
M Militaria
Pekka Jaakkola
PhotoCreate
166
167
Mosista Pambudi
M Millinery
M Minimalism
168
Anthony Fourrier
The movement that has led to fashion designs that are stripped down to the
most fundamental and expressive features. Minimalism developed in fashion
following the Second World War and applies the principles of methodological
reductionism seen in Ockrams Razor a principle that states that elements
that are not really needed should be pared back to produce something simpler,
thus reducing the risk of introducing inconsistencies, ambiguities and
redundancies. Minimalism was popular with Japanese designers such as Issey
Miyake in the 1980s and 1990s.
M Mini/Maxi
Zoe Irvin
169
Mini
A short skirt with a hemline that
is typically at least 20cm or eight
inches above the knee. The
miniskirt became popular in the
1960s and marked the high point
of hemline creep that began with
the flapper style of the 1920s.
The development of the miniskirt
is generally attributed to English
designer Mary Quant. As a rule of
thumb, if the wearer of a skirt
cannot reach past its hemline
with her ring and index finger, it
is not a mini.
Maxi
By contrast, a maxi-skirt is an
ankle-length skirt that was
popular in the 1970s as a
reaction to the miniskirt. Skirts
could not get any shorter and so
they got longer instead. The
development of the maxi-skirt
coincided with the rise of the
feminist movement, which
abhorred the way the miniskirt
had turned women into
erotic objects.
170
Anthony Fourrier
M Mod
M Model
Patricia Malina
171
A person employed to wear clothing for its presentation at a fashion show, photo shoot or
advertisement. The use of live models rather than mannequins is thought to have begun in 1853
when Parisian shop girl, Marie Vernet Worth, modelled garments for her designer husband Charles
Frederick Worth. In print publications, high fashion models use their face and body to express the
different emotions required in artistic constructions relating to the garments, jewels or cosmetics
that are worn. Fashion models wear garments on the catwalk or runway and pose to display their
outfits during a fashion show.
M Mohair
172
173
Alexander Gitlits
M Monochromatic
The use of a single colour. Monochromatic fashions are those where all
the garments of an outfit share the same single colour to provide
consistency and cohesiveness. Black is typically used in a
monochromatic outfit, following the axiom that black is always in
fashion, but white and grey are also used.
N Nape
174
Zoe Irvin
N Natural Fibres
175
Fibres from plants and animals that can be spun into a thread such as wool, silk, linen,
cotton and hemp.
Wool
Fibre from animal fur of the caprinae family, such as
sheep, goats, alpacas and rabbits.
Cotton
A fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton
plant Gossypium species that is spun into thread and
is the most widely-used natural fibre. Cotton is
strong, durable and absorbent.
Silk
A fibre obtained from the cocoons made by Bombyx
Mori silkworm larvae, prized for its shimmering
appearance due to the fibres prism-like structures
that refract light.
Linen
A fibre made from flax Linum Usitatissimum, linen is
the worlds oldest textile material and is frequently
used for towels, sheets and tablecloths, in addition to
shirts and other garments.
N Neck
Anthony Fourrier
176
The part of an upper body garment that circles the neck of the wearer. Garment necks are
finished in many different ways and styles, they may be open or closed, and may have
different fastenings, such as zips, buttons, poppers, buckles and velcro.
A-neck The neck of a standard shirt that buttons at the throat and whose collar folds back and
down to give a shape like a majuscule A.
Ballerina A low neckline typical of a strapless or spaghetti-strap dress.
Bateau/boat A high and wide neckline that runs straight across the front and back and meets at
the shoulders.
Crew A close-fitting, ribbed round neck.
Diamond A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Jewel A high and round neckline that rests at the neck base.
Keyhole A tear-shaped or round cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Off-the-shoulder A wide neck that leaves the shoulders bare or covered with a sheer yoke of net
or organza attached to a high collar.
Polo A sweater or jersey with a high, close-fitting collar.
Scoop neck A u-shaped neck that falls towards the bust, often showing significant cleavage.
Split A round neck cut with a small V in the centre.
Square An open-yoke neckline shaped like half a square.
Turtle A high, close-fitting, turnover collar used for sweaters.
V-neck An open yoke forming a V shape in the bodice.
N Nudity
177
Anton Oparin
Nudity can be full or partial, but generally refers to occasions when a person wears
fewer clothes than is typically socially acceptable and exposes bare skin. Social
perceptions are one of the defining elements of the acceptability of partial nudity and
they change as the overriding zeitgeist changes. Fashion often willingly challenges and
steps over the line of what is considered acceptable, as has been seen with the
development of garments such as the bikini and miniskirt. A more recent example is the
midriff-revealing crop or muffin top.
N Nylon
178
Aaron Twa
P Panama
179
180
Anthony Fourrier
P Pasties
Coverings for the nipples, applied with glue or a selfadhesive backing, and used in place of a bra or bikini
top when a woman is topless or wearing transparent
clothing. Pasties provide no support and only provide
minimal visual breast coverage, so are used mainly when
showing the nipple is forbidden, or for decorative
purposes. Pasties can be decorated in many ways, from
flower or heart shapes to tassels and sequins. Pasties
grew in popularity in the 1920s and are often worn by
strippers/dancers at venues such as the Folies Bergere in
Paris, France. In the 1960s, designers combined pasties
and briefs and created the trikini.
181
Anthony Fourrier
P Patch
P Pattern (fabric)
182
Paisley
A droplet-shaped motif of Persian
origin, also called Persian pickles.
Polka dot
A pattern consisting of dots, which
became popular in late 19th-century
Britain.
Stripes
Long, straight bands of single
colours running vertically.
Hoops
Long, straight bands of single
colours running horizontally.
Plaid
A cross-hatched dyeing pattern used
for wool clothing.
Tie dye
A brightly coloured pattern produced
by tying fabric before applying dye
so it only reaches certain areas.
Houndstooth or dog-tooth
A rich, textural, duotone pattern of
abstracted angular shapes that
first appeared in the 1930s.
Harlequin
A lozenge or diamond pattern
typically worn by the comic
character in dramatic works.
Animal print
A print that resembles the pattern of
animal fur such as leopard.
P Pattern (paper)
183
see Block 39
184
P Peacock Revolution
185
Alexander Gitlits
P Peek-a-boo
Any part of the garment that has been cut out to reveal skin or
underwear such as this dress, which reveals the flank. Often used to
make underwear more revealing.
P Petticoat
186
JimmyC LuminousImpression
P Photography
187
188
Zastavkin
P Piercing
P Pile
189
A woven cloth in which the warp forms loops, having been woven over
a metal rod or wire. The pile ends may be left as loops to form loop
pile or be cut to form cut pile such as velvet or flannel. Pile is
sometimes called nap, which refers to the lay or grain of the fabric as
all the fibres lay in the same direction. Garment costs using pile
material may be more expensive. This is because more material is
needed sections must be cut so that the nap runs in the same
direction when the pieces are sewn together. The pattern block front
(shown below left) and back (shown below right) run in the same
direction so that when cut and constructed, the fabric grain runs in the
same direction to give consistent colour and texture. Nap fabrics can
also be shaded as the direction that the cloth is cut affects how bright
it appears. The nap of velvet feels coarse in one direction and
produces a dull, matte appearance, but it appears silky smooth in the
opposite direction with a bright, shiny appearance because the
fibres fall together.
P Pinafore
190
A sleeveless,
collarless
garment tied or
buttoned at the
back, originally
worn as an apron.
Also called a
pinny, a pinafore
dress was
intended to be
worn over a top
or blouse, but the
name refers to
any sleeveless
dress that fastens
behind. The name
originates from
the aprons that
were pinned to
the front of a
dress. Pictured is
a pinafore dress
by French
designer Andr
Courrges (1966).
see Dress 95
P Pinking Shears
191
P Placket
192
Anthony Fourrier
P Plaid
193
A patterned, woollen
cloth with repeat
horizontal and
vertical blocks of
colour such as
tartan. Pictured is a
plaid jacket with
shirt and breeches
in cotton and wool
created by British
designer Vivienne
Westwood in the
early 1980s.
P Pleats
194
A fold of doubled fabric
that is secured in place.
A pleat is normally used
to reduce a wide piece of
fabric to a narrower size,
such as in a skirt or
trousers. Pleats may be
made in different ways to
create different effects.
Knife pleats
These are sharp and
narrow. A series of knife
pleats are normally used
for gathering material in a
garment.
Zoe Irvin
Box pleats
These consist of two
parallel creases, facing
in opposite directions. Box
pleats give more volume to
garments.
P Pockets
195
Anthony Fourrier
Cargo pocket
An expandable pocket with
side pleats that may or may
not have a flap, such as the
button-down flap in
the illustration.
Inside pocket
There are three types of
inside pocket: a seam pocket
that is sewn into a seam; a
front hip pocket that is
attached at the side waist
seam; and a slashed pocket
attached through a slit in the
face fabric.
Patch pocket
A lined or unlined pocket
normally made from the face
fabric and attached directly to
the fabric. This illustration
features a bellows pleat.
196
Zoe Irvin
P Poncho
Matjaz Boncina
P Prt--Porter
197
198
An inked design
applied with
pressure to
fabrics such as
cotton, silk or
polyester. Prints
are usually
continuous in
the horizontal
and vertical
planes although
they can be
more elaborate,
as in the
example
pictured.
Gordana Sermek
P Print
199
P Protein Fabrics
Luxurious and warm fabrics produced from natural wool or fur that are
typically very soft and have a low micron diameter count. Protein
fabrics include angora, mohair, cashmere, camel, alpaca and cat.
Angora rabbit fur was first bred in the Carpathian Mountains to obtain
cloth for warm clothing, while angora cat fur originating in Scotland in
the 1890s borrowed the name. Angora goat fur is used to produce
mohair. Alpaca wool is warmer and lighter than sheeps wool, with
Peruvian Accoyo alpacas giving the best fibre. Cashmere is produced
from the cashmere goat, while camel is cloth produced from the soft
undercoat hair that is collected when camels moult in warmer seasons.
200
Zoe Irvin
P Pullover
P Punk
201
Alexander Gitlits
An anti-establishment
subculture that developed
from punk rock music in the
mid-1970s. Punk fashion
(first developed and
commercialised by Vivienne
Westwood and Malcolm
McLaren through their
London boutique, SEX) was
originally deconstructionist
and anti-fashion, and was
designed to be
confrontational, rebellious
and shocking with a disdain
for established norms and
niceties. Military clothing,
sometimes ripped or
studded, characterised punk
fashion in the 1970s with
cropped and sometimes dyed
hair. Bands such as The
Ramones, Sex Pistols and
The Exploited have
popularised the punk look.
Punk continues to appeal to
designers and has been
reprised as a concept several
times since the 1970s.
202
Bill McKelvie
P PVC
203
R Regency
R Repeat
204
C
R Reversible
205
206
Archana Bhartia
R Ribbing
R Ribbon
207
R Rockabilly
208
209
R Ruff
S Safari Suit
210
211
Chris May
S Satin
A cloth, usually woven from silk, which has a lustrous top surface and
a dull back due to the high number of floats or missed interlacings
where the warp thread lies over the weft thread, or vice versa. Satin is
used for clothing such as evening gowns, lingerie, sports clothing and
other items, such as ballet shoes. Fabric produced in this way from
other thread such as cotton is called sateen.
S Seam
212
The join line formed when two pieces of cloth are sewn
together. Seams may be formed in different ways to
produce different visual effects that have different levels
of prominence. The seam allowance is the area between
the edge and the stitching line on the pieces of material
being stitched together, which ranges from 1/4 inch for
curved areas to several inches for places requiring extra
fabric for final fitting to the wearer.
Running seam
Two pieces of fabric are
joined together using a flat
bed machine. These are
commonly found inside a
denim jacket. Pictured is a
running seam with overlocked
edging.
French seam
The first stitch is applied to
the right side of the fabric
with the second on the wrong
side to trap it. This method
originated in Paris, France
and is used on fine or
transparent materials.
Pictured is a French seam
and pin hem.
Welt seam
An extremely strong bond
between two pieces of fabric
that are effectively
interlocked together, giving a
distinctive pattern. One fabric
has two rows of stitching and
the other only one, as
commonly used with denim.
Pictured is a welt seam in
conjunction with top
stitching.
S Season
213
A time period that corresponds to the seasons of the year for which
designers produce specific garment collections. Fashion houses tend to
produce and launch a different collection twice a year. The ideas and
styles they present can loosely be termed this seasons fashion. The
cycle takes about a year with the process to create a spring/summer
collection starting in January and ending the following January with
delivery into store. The autumn/winter collections start with shows in
August and fulfillment into stores the following July.
fabric shows
Yarn and fabric shows start the design
process with a display of the new
colours and materials that are
available.
delivery
sampling
ordering
Stores order garments
S Selvage
214
The uncut edge of a woven fabric that is on the rightand left-hand edge during manufacture. Selvage or
selvedge will not fray as the yarn returns on itself and
thus appears finished. Selvage tends to be cut away or
hidden by a hem as it may carry a different pattern to
the rest of the fabric, have a different weave pattern,
or lack pile.
S Shank
215
see Button 60
S Shape
216
Pear-shaped
A figure that tapers towards the top and is rounded at the bottom. Often
said of women who have wide hips and a small bust.
Hourglass
A female body shape in which the hips and bust are of proportional size,
but with a narrower waist. The hourglass figure, such as that of actress
Marilyn Monroe, was popular in the 1950s and 1960s and can be
achieved through the use of corsetry.
Wasp-waist
A very narrow, exaggerated waist that emphasises the hips and bust
(similar to a wasp), obtained through the use of corsetry and popular in
the 19th century.
217
S Sheer
A semi-transparent and flimsy fabric with a very fine knit, often used
to produce tights, leggings and stockings in addition to lingerie
and blouses.
S Shoes
218
Insole
Tongue
Aglet*
Topline
Eyelets
Throat line
Quarter
Heel
Top piece
Vamp or upper
Welt
Toe cap
Outsole
S Shoe Types
219
Shoes are available in a range of different styles that readily reflect the
changing nature of fashion.
Espadrilles
A wedge shoe with a sole/heel of
braided rope.
Flip-flop
A flat sandal with one or two straps
between the big and second toes.
Also called thongs.
Slide
An open-toed and open-back sandal
with one band across the toes.
Ballet flat
A flat shoe with a round toe and thin
sole.
Mary Jane
A shoe with a strap across the
vamp.
Ankle strap
A sandal with an adjustable strap
attached to the back of the shoe
passing across the ankle.
Court
A closed-toe shoe with a medium to
high heel with pointed or
rounded toe.
Clog
A shoe with a wooden, often
platform sole. Also called mules.
Stiletto
A court shoe with a high,
spiked heel.
S Silhouette
Zoe Irvin
220
221
Sketch
An initial drawn image that outlines the main visual elements of a
garment design. A sketch is used to present the idea of how a garment
will look, but without specific tailoring details.
Anthony Fourrier
Sketchbook
A book containing various sketched ideas by a designer, which may
form the basis of a collection. The ideas in the sketchbook can be
worked up into more detailed illustrations prior to making
prototype garments.
S Skirt Length
222
Micro
Shorter than a miniskirt
and just covering the
crotch.
Mini
The hemline is at least
20cm (eight inches) or
more above the knee.
Short
A skirt that is up to
20cm (eight inches)
above the knee.
Standard
A skirt that is just
above the knee.
Midi
A skirt that hangs
below the knee, but
above the calf.
Knee length
A skirt that covers
the knee.
Tea length
A skirt that extends to the
mid-calf or shin.
Ballerina length
A full skirt that reaches to just
above the ankles.
Floor length/maxi
A skirt that covers the feet
and touches the floor.
223
Alexander Gitlits
S Slogan
224
Zoe Irvin
S Spaghetti Strap
S Stitches
225
Topstitch
A decorative row of stitching
close to the garment seam or
edge on the outer side of
the fabric to create a
strong seam.
Elastic stitch
A stitch that stretches with
the fabric. Pictured is a detail
of a bra in which each
segment of the zig-zag has
three stitches, which allow
more give.
Buttonhole stitch
Stitched around a buttonhole
to seal the fabric cut.
Zig-zag stitch
A stitch used for finishing to
prevent fraying.
Honeycomb stitch
A decorative stitch that
allows for fabric stretch.
Overlock stitch
Stitching that stops
fabric fraying.
S Stole
226
A band of cloth or a shawl worn around the shoulders and left to fall
down the body front such as a fox-fur stole or mink. Deriving from the
Latin stola meaning garment or equipment, it is also a Christian
vestment, made from an embroidered band of silk. Pictured is a 1962
photograph by John French showing a silk evening dress trimmed with
fur and matching stole designed by Nina Ricci worn by Anne Larsen.
see Draping 94
227
Anthony Fourrier
S Stripe
S Subcultures
228
S Suit
229
Collar
Lapel
Shoulder
Buttonhole
Blade
Breast pocket
Side vent
Centre vent
S Symbols
230
A pictorial element that communicates a concept, idea or object. Symbols provide a burst of
precise information, such as the garment care symbols pictured here, found on clothing labels to
inform the owner about the appropriate washing method for the item.
Washing
These symbols instruct the owner as to how the garment should be washed.
Machine wash, normal
(at a maximum 95
degrees Celsius)
Garment suitable for a
woollen wash at stated
temperature
Machine wash, delicate/
gentle cycle (at maximum
temperature of 40 degrees
Celsius)
Machine wash, extremely
delicate/gentle cycle (at a
maximum temperature of
30 degrees Celsius)
Hand wash only
Machine wash, normal
(at a maximum 60
degrees Celsius)
Garment suitable for a
cotton wash at stated
temperature
Do not wash
Ironing
These symbols instruct the owner as to how the garment should be ironed.
Do not iron or press
Cool iron, 110 degrees
Celsius, acrylic, nylon,
acetate
Warm iron, 150 degrees
Celsius, polyester
mix, wool
Hot iron, 200 degrees
Celsius, cotton, linen
S Symbols (cont.)
231
Drying
These symbols instruct the owner as to how the garment should be dried.
Hang dry
Dry flat
Dry In Shade
Bleaching
These clothing label symbols refer to whether bleach can be safely used in the garment washing
process or not.
Non-chlorine bleach
when needed
Dry cleaning
These symbols instruct the owner as to how the garment should be dry cleaned.
Dry clean
T Tailoring
232
Anthony Fourrier
233
T Tailors Chalk
T Tank Top
234
Anthony Fourrier
see Bikini 37
235
T Tards
A skin-tight, single-piece garment covering the torso and body, but not
the legs. Leotards are named after French acrobat Jules Lotard
(18391870), the subject of the George Leybourne song The Daring
Young Man on the Flying Trapeze. Leotards influenced the
development of the swimming costume, and they allow free movement,
hence their popularity among gymnasts and dancers. Pictured is a
leotard created by British designer Vivienne Westwood (1984) from the
collection of the V&A Museum.
236
Serghei Starus
T Tartan
T Tartan (cont.)
237
Angus
Bruce
Cameron
Black Watch
Gordon Regimental
Royal Stewart
T Tattoo
238
MaxFX
T Tea Length
239
Zoe Irvin
T Tessellation
240
A repeated geometric design that
covers a fabric without gaps or
overlaps. Tessellation is used in
fashion to provide a seamless pattern
to present a constant and cohesive
image. Pictured is a design that can
cover a wide area by tessellation.
T Theme
241
T Thong
242
Noam Wind
A narrow piece of
cloth that passes
between the buttocks
to cover the genitals
and attaches to a
band around the hips.
The first thongs are
believed to have been
worn 75,000 years
ago in Africa. Thongs
(also known as gstrings, though these
tend to use less
material) have
become a popular
female underwear
garment as they do
not produce a visible
panty line. Both men
and women wear
thong swimsuits.
Thongs can also
describe sandals that
are attached to the
wearers foot by a
thong positioned
inside the big toe.
T Tie
243
Dimple
A piece of cloth that is tied with a knot at the throat and worn under a
shirt collar. The tie developed from cravats, tied with a bow knot and
introduced as part of formal court wear by Charles II of England in the
15th century. Tie etiquette dictates that the thick end should be level
with the trouser waist and the thin end should never drop below the
thick end.
Four in hand or simple knot
A tying method that produces a narrow, discreet and slightly asymmetrical tie knot with a dimple for use with a standard
button-down dress shirt. Popular in Britain since the 1850s and perhaps named after a London gentlemans club, it is the
simplest knot to tie.
Half Windsor
A simplified variant of the Windsor knot that gives a neat, triangular knot.
Windsor, full Windsor or double Windsor
A tying method that produces a wide triangular knot with two dimples at the side, named after the Duke of Windsor.
Pratt or Shelby knot
A symmetrical knot that begins with the ties reverse side facing out, created by Jerry Pratt, but popularised by TV
personality Don Shelby. It is suitable for shorter ties as it uses less length than a half Windsor or Windsor.
T Toile
A garment created
as a test for a new
pattern of design,
typically from
cheap material
such as gingham
cloth or calico.
A toile or muslin
allows the designer
to see how a
design works and
hangs, allowing
it to be
altered and
perfected
prior to
producing
the finished
garment.
244
T Toile de Jouy
245
T Top Hat
246
T Topstitch
247
248
prism_68
T Train
see Bridal 55
T Trench Coat
249
A double-breasted,
loose belted kneelength raincoat made of
waterproof heavy-duty
cotton drill or poplin,
created by Thomas
Burberry. Unlike a
macintosh, which has
rubberised fabric, a
trench coat achieves
waterproofing through
the closely woven twill
construction. Water
droplets rest on the
surface and run off.
T Tudor
250
251
Vera Bogaerts
T Turban
A headdress made from a long, single piece of cloth wound round the
head or inner hat, particularly by Sikh and Muslim men. Muslim
turban colour may indicate status as a black turban is a claim to
status as a descendant of Muhammad, while a white turban in Sudan
indicates high social status. Sikh turbans, on the other hand, generally
have no such connotation with turbans coloured to coordinate with
outfits, although orange and navy turbans are traditionally worn on
religious days.
T Tutu
252
Billy Lobo H.
253
Manuel Velasco
T Tuxedo
T Twin Set
254
Zoe Irvin
U Underlying Fabrics
255
A fabric that is used underneath the face fabric in the construction of a garment. Underlining
fabrics such as light- to medium-weight cotton batiste or silk organza are cut from the same
pattern pieces as the top fabric and are attached before garment construction begins, and
subsequently handled as a single item with the fashion or face fabric. Underlining adds stability
and strength to lightweight fabrics, and reduces wrinkling and transparency.
Face fabric/garment
fabric
The visible outer fabric of
the garment.
Underlining
Applied before
interfacing, interlining
and lining, underlining
prevents stretching, adds
support and opacity.
Interfacing
A layer between underlining
and interlining to help support
and shape a garment and
stabilise its edges.
Interlining
A layer applied before the lining to
provide warmth.
Lining
A slippery fabric attached
at a garment's waistband,
neck or hem to give a
finished look inside the
garment. Prevents seams
unravelling and helps it
slide on and off.
U Uniform
256
257
Anthony Fourrier
U Utilitarian
V Variegated
Alexandra Gleitz
258
V Vent
259
Anthony Fourrier
260
V Victoriana
see Basque 33, Corsage 76, Corset 77, Ribbon 207, Top Hat 246
V Vintage
Chris May
Garments originating in
or whose design is
inspired by a previous era.
Vintage clothing tends to
typify the fashion of the
period such as a mens
velvet jacket from the
late 1960s. Pictured
is a vintage striped
day dress from
the 1950s.
261
262
Sylwia Tulajew
V Vogue
W Waistcoat
263
264
True bias
The cross-grain direction
of a woven fabric that is 45
degrees to its warp and
weft threads.
Selvage
The uncut fabric edge as it comes off the loom.
W Weave
265
W Welt Stitch
266
Anthony Fourrier
W Wool
267
A fibre found in the coats of sheep and other animals of the caprinae family, such as sheep, goats,
alpacas and rabbits. Wool is different to fur in that it has overlapping scales and is crimped, thus
making it easier to spin (as the fibres easily attach to each other). The crimp increases textile bulk
and allows it to retain air and therefore heat. Wool quality is determined by fibre fineness, length,
scale structure, colour, cleanliness and freedom from damage, and is graded according to its
diameter in microns. Fine wool is softer, whereas wool with a diameter of up to 25 microns is much
coarser and is used for outerwear. This coarser wool is named merino after the sheep breed that it
comes from. Wool quality is indicated in the UK through use of the Woolmark and Woolmark Blend
symbols pictured.
< 17.5 Ultrafine merino 17.618.5 Superfine merino
< 19.5 Fine merino 19.620.5 Fine medium merino
268
Y Yarn
269
David Kay
Y Yoke
270
Anthony Fourrier
271
Z Zeitgeist
The moral and intellectual trends of a given era. Taken from the
German zeit meaning time and geist meaning spirit, the terms
literal translation is the spirit of the age. Fashion, art and design
are all subject to the zeitgeist and this is reflected in everything
from choice of colours, hemlines, hairstyles and cosmetics. As
such, certain designs can be easily classified as originating in a
certain era. Pictured is a conceptual chic evening dress created by
Zandra Rhodes, together with a bondage suit created by Vivienne
Westwood (1977), reflecting the punk zeitgeist of the late 1970s.
The Details
The Timeline
1600s
The First Suits
Block-printed calico first
exported from India to
England in 1630. Cravats,
the predecessor to the
modern tie, entered Parisian
culture. Trousers and
jackets for men were cut
from the same material, an
early form of what we know
today as the suit.
274
17501850
The Industrial Revolution
The Industrial Revolution
saw independently powered
machines replace the
spinning wheel and hand
loom, while improvements
in raw material production
ignited the growth of the
weaving industry, dominated
by manufactured cotton
from England. Pictured is
Manchester, nicknamed
Cottonopolis.
17501850
The Cotton Trade
Cotton goods were exported
around the world as the
Industrial Revolution in
Britain allowed mass
manufacture following the
invention of the spinning
jenny in 1764. Cotton has
remained a staple
commodity in world fibre
trade and is a mainstay of
the textile industry.
275
17951820
Empire Influences
The Regency period during
which the empire look was
popular for womens
clothing. Dresses fitted
close to the torso under the
bust and fell loosely with
soft, flowing skirts. Men
wore jackets with high waist
seams, high collars and
breeches and boots.
1800s
Colonial Influences
The British occupation of
India saw a cultural
interchange that brought
many styles and customs
into British and European
life, including these tightfitting riding trousers that
were named after the city of
Jodhpur in India where they
were originally worn.
1800s
The Birth of Mail Order
Mail order purchasing,
whereby consumers select
items from a catalogue and
send, pay for and receive
their order by mail, became
popular in the 19th century
with the development of the
postal system. Mail order
continues to be an
important distribution
channel for fashion retailers
by allowing them to access
consumers in remote
locations in addition to
those that prefer to shop
from home.
276
1820s1830s
The Creation of Elastic
Thomas Hancock patented
elastic, which he used in a
range of fastenings for
gloves, suspenders, shoes
and stockings.
1823
The Discovery of
Waterproof Fabric
In 1823 Scottish chemist
Charles Macintosh created a
waterproof raincoat using a
fabric he invented.
18341896
The Arts and Crafts
Movement
English artist, writer,
socialist and activist
William Morris was a
founder of the British Arts
and Crafts Movement, and
is well known for his
wallpaper and fabric
designs. Morris sought to
reverse the demise of
beauty at the hands of the
Industrial Revolution, and
re-establish the link
between the worker and art
through an honesty in
design.
277
18371901
Victorian Fashions
The Victorian age saw
widespread use of tailcoats
and top hats for men and
floor-length, hooped silk
dresses trimmed with frills,
flounces, lace, braid and
ribbons for women.
1850s1860s
Charles Frederick Worth
Englishman Charles
Frederick Worth opened the
first haute couture fashion
house in Paris in 1858. The
dinner jacket or tuxedo
became popular formal wear
in 1865 after it was worn by
the Prince of Wales.
1853
The Birth of Denim
Levi Strauss began a
wholesale business to
provide denim clothing to
Californian Gold Rush
miners. Levi Strauss & Co.
has popularised denim to
such an extent that it has
now become a staple for
leisurewear.
278
19011910
Edwardian Fashions
The Belle Epoque period
saw fashions become more
cosmopolitan under the
influence of international
travel and art nouveau.
Sports clothing also
developed for the leisure
class. Paul Poiret, the
creator of harem pants and
the first couturier to launch
a perfume, called Rosina,
established his fashion
house in 1906.
1913
Coco Chanel
Modernist French fashion
designer Gabrielle Bonheur
Coco Chanel (18831971)
opened a boutique in
Deauville, France. Chanel
went on to revolutionise
womens fashion with the
Chanel suit, chain-belted
jerseys and sunglasses with
elegant simplicity. Chanel
popularised the little black
dress and started the trend
for suntans, having got
burnt on a 1923 cruise.
19141918
The First World War
The First World War saw
women adopt mens clothing
as they went to work in
factories. The military
influence on fashion grew
with garments such as the
trenchcoat created by
Thomas Burberry, made of a
waterproof heavy-duty
cotton drill or poplin.
Burberry also invented
gabardine and the red,
white, black, and peach
Nova check that became
known as his trademark
Burberry check.
279
c.1920
The Flapper Style
New styles developed in the
roaring twenties to cater
for flappers; young women
who wore bobbed hair, short
skirts and make-up,
listened to jazz and partied
hard. The flapper style
accentuated a thin,
elongated boyish shape with
straight and loose dresses.
Underwear developed to
cater for this new lifestyle
with bras that flattened the
bust and step-in knickers.
1920s
Fashionable Fragrance
The decade that saw the
rise of French designer Coco
Chanel. In 1921, Chanel
No.5 perfume, the first
perfume to be sold
worldwide, was launched.
Later in the decade Chanel
created the LBD or little
black dress, a variation on
the cocktail dress.
1926
The Rise and Fall of
Hemlines
Hemlines began rising after
1910 and soon raced up the
leg to become near kneelength by 1926, in order to
be compatible with the
Charleston dancing style.
Rayon, or artificial silk,
became increasingly popular
and caused a decline in
cotton use. In 1926, Waldo
Semon found a way to
plasticise PVC, making it
commercially viable.
280
1930s
The Appearance of Logos
French tennis star Rene
Lacoste La Crocodile
launched a loose-knit short
sleeved pique cotton tennis
shirt with embroidered
crocodile, perhaps the first
designer logo to appear on
clothing. The Lacoste
apparel company was
founded in 1933. Nylon was
developed, but widespread
use did not occur until the
1940s. In this decade the
houndstooth check
appeared, and although
invented in the 1800s, the
fashion mannequin became
widely popular.
1940s
The Launch of the Bikini
The bikini, a two-piece
swimsuit, was launched in
1946 and became a fixture
of womens wardrobes,
progressively shrinking to
the thong in the 1980s.
Capri pants were created by
Italian designer Emilio
Pucci in 1949. The twin set,
a matching cardigan and
jumper worn by women,
appeared. French designer
Christian Dior reestablished Paris as a
fashion centre in 1947
through his new look,
which revived haute couture
and feminine beauty
following wartime austerity.
1950s
Rockabilly Style
The rockabilly style of
denim jeans and jacket
became popular through its
use by the singer Elvis
Presley. This developed into
the greaser look,
characterised by long
sideburns, greased back
hair, tight jeans or black
slacks, brothel creeper
shoes, motorcycle jackets
and tattoos. Stiletto heeled
shoes were launched after a
1952 Christian Dior show.
281
1958
Mary Quant
Designer Mary Quant began
experimenting with shorter
skirts at her London
boutique Bazaar in the late
1950s and was credited
with inventing the miniskirt,
one of the fashions that
defined the 1960s. Quant
considered a skirt with a
hemline well above the
knees to be liberating.
Late 1950s1960s
Mods and Rockers
The British mod subculture
developed around fashion
and music and was
characterised by slim-cut
Italian suits, modern jazz
and rhythm and blues.
Mods developed a unique
style based around
continental clothes,
scooters, French new wave
cinema and existentialist
philosophy. The movement
adopted the RAF
circumpunct symbol of
concentric circles. Mods
often clashed with rockers,
a later variation of the
rockabillies and teddy boys
of the 1940s and 1950s.
1960s
Baby Doll Dresses as
Outerwear
Although launched as
outerwear in 1957/58, baby
doll dresses became one of
the iconic fashion
statements of the 1960s
and 1970s.
282
1960s
Deconstruction in Fashion
French philosopher Jacques
Derrida used the term
deconstruction to describe
a method of critical enquiry
examining how meaning is
constructed by challenging
the prescribed values that
are presented to us. The
fashion industry has used
deconstruction principles to
create clothes that do not
conform to traditional
garment conceptions by
being taken apart and put
back together, unfinished,
inside out or in some other
way deteriorated.
Early 1960s
The Creation of the First
Ready-to-Wear Collection
Italian-born French designer
Pierre Cardin was the first
designer to license his name
for different products.
Known for an avant-garde
style and designs using
geometric shapes and
motifs, Cardin frequently
ignored the female form in
favour of a unisex approach.
Cardin launched the first
ready-to-wear collection in
1959 for the Printemps
department store in Paris.
1962
The Launch of Yves Saint
Laurent
After working with Christian
Dior, French designer Yves
Saint Laurent opened his
own fashion house using his
YSL initials as its brand.
The house led fashion
trends such as the beatnik
look, tweed suits, tight
pants and tall,
thigh-high boots.
283
Mid-1960s
Futuristic Fashions and
an Acceptance of Nudity
Influenced by the modernist
or mod music scene,
London became the centre
of the fashion world with
fun, colourful clothes,
gaining widespread appeal
through the use of
psychedelic prints and wild
colours made in materials
from vinyl to paper.
Austrian designer Rudi
Gernreich pushed the
boundaries of a futuristic
look with creations such as
the 1964 topless swimsuit
(or monokini) and the braless, see-through blouse
look. The micro-skirt
follows the miniskirt and
takes hemlines to a new
height.
1968
The Launch of Americas
Biggest Names
Two of the biggest names in
fashion got their start as
American designers; Calvin
Klein and Ralph Lauren
began production in New
York. Calvin Kleins designs
featured elegant, simple
forms presented in neutral
earth tones and luxurious
fabrics. Ralph Lauren
(pictured) started with
menswear, but expanded
into womenswear, again
favouring natural fabrics,
but with western and
country motifs that were
subsequently sold under the
Polo brand.
1968
Unisex
The term unisex was first
used to descibe clothes that
were produced or adjusted
to be worn by either gender.
284
1970
Glam Trends
American designer Roy
Halston Frowick dominated
female fashion with pantsuit
creations, sweater sets and
form-fitting dresses in earth
tones. Halston licensed his
designs and JC Penney
made his designs accessible
to women at various income
levels. Popularised by glam
rock music, platform boots
saw people add a few inches
to their height. Together
with flared or bell-bottom
trousers, platform boots
have been one of the
enduring and defining
fashion items of the decade.
1970s
The Punk Subculture
The punk subculture
developed around the punk
rock music scene in London
and New York. Punk fashion
was commercialised by
Vivienne Westwood and
Malcolm McLaren through
their London boutique SEX,
a deconstructionist, antifashion establishment
designed to be
confrontational, rebellious
and shocking with a disdain
for established norms
and niceties.
Early 1980s
Japanese Influences
The Japanese school rose to
prominence as designers
such as Issey Miyake, Kenzo
Takada, Rei Kawakubo and
Hanae Mori enjoyed
increasing success in the
world of couture. The goth
subculture emerged with a
clothing style characterised
by dyed black hair, black
eyeliner and nail polish, ear,
facial and body piercings,
and black clothes, often
drawing on Victorian
dress influences.
285
1984
Fashion as a Political
Statement
Slogans on t-shirts were
appropriated by the fashion
industry after designer
Katherine Hamnett met UK
Prime Minister Margaret
Thatcher while wearing an
anti-nuclear t-shirt.
1990s
The Rise of Alexander
McQueen
Anything goes became the
motto as designers such as
English designer Alexander
McQueen produced
shocking designs that
featured cozy, romantic
garments, dresses that
looked like quilt blankets
and rabbit-skin garments.
Following his appointment
as head designer at
Givenchy in 1996, McQueen
continued indulging his
rebellious streak with
double amputee model
Aimee Mullins striding down
the catwalk on intricately
carved wooden legs.
1999present
The Growth of E-shopping
Shopping online via the
Internet saw the application
of computer technology to
the mail order concept.
Consumers can now select
products from an on-line
electronic catalogue and
place and pay for their
orders via computer, with
the merchandise delivered
by mail within days.
Conclusion
286
Zoe Irvin
Acknowledgements
287
Gag 44
Geek 228
Gingham 107, 123
Gladstone collar 70
Go-go 49
Gordon Regimental 237
Gouache 164
G-string 153
Gunning, Anne 67
Half cup 52
Half Windsor 243
Harlequin 182
Hatband 128
Homburg 128
Hoods 44
Hoops 182, 227
Hourglass 216
Inside pocket 195
Insignia 181
Interfacing 255
Interlining 255
Ironing 228
Ivory 46
Jersey 107
Kerala 61
Kilt 78, 145, 236
Kimono 78, 146
Kinky 49
Kitten 130
Knee high 49
Lace 107
Lam 107
Laminate 45
LBD (Little Black Dress) 69
Linen 175
Lignes 60
Lycra 134
Maiko 121
Masculine 21
Maternity 52
Mermaid 220
Midi 222
Monochromatic 173
Monochrome 73
Mutual complements 73
Near complements 73
Needlework 23
Ockrams Razor 168
Organza 107
Outr 108
Paisley 182
Pastel 164
Patch pocket 195
Patent leather 44, 151
Pedal pushers 63
Peter Pan collar 70
Platform 49, 130
Poet collar 70
Polka 182
Polo neck 176
Primary colours 72
Pump 219
288
Punk 22, 93, 201
Push up 52
PVC 111, 202
Ribs 46
Round cuff 82
Running seam 213
Salwar 59, 78
Scoop neck 176
Scrollwork 56
Secondary colours 72
Shameless 108
Sheath 220
Silk 175
Slide 219
Slink 151
Slouch 128
Smart 108
Split complements 73
Sporran 145
Stetson 128
Stiletto 130
Straight cuff 82
Strapless 52
Sweatband 128
Tab collar 70
Taffeta 101
Tarboosh 112
Teddy boys 208
Tertiary colours 72
Thigh length 49
Tie dye 182
Tie side 109
Triads 73
Ugg 49
Vamp 218
Vanguard 25
Velcro 109
Velvet 107
Vestments 56
Victorian 33, 77, 143, 177,
260
V-line 220
Vogue 157
Voisin 113
Washing 228
Welt seam 212
Wedge 130
Whalebone 46
Windsor collar 70
Wing collar 70
Zhongshan suit 160
8/5/08
12:53 PM
Page 2
Gavin Ambrose MA
Central St Martins
Practising graphic designer.
Gavins current commercial practice
includes clients from the arts sector,
galleries, publishers and advertising
agencies. He is the co-author/designer
of several books on branding, packaging
and editorial design.
ava publishing sa
Ambrose &
Harris
sales@avabooks.ch
www.avabooks.ch
14.95
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