Lecture 1

Review of Fabric Construction

Recap of primary motions, Overview of some fabric defects, Understanding of fabric construction, Warp & weft contraction, Calculation of total
ends across the width, Pick Gear calculations

Shedding the separation of the warp threads into upper and lower layers forming a shed, or a tunnel, through which
the weft is passed.
Picking the insertion of the weft through the shed.
Beating-up the carrying forward of the last inserted pick of weft to the cloth already woven.

Miss Pick & Miss End - When the weft stop motion or the warp stop motion fails to work, similarly if the head and tail
of the two subsequent cones are not joined.
Double Pick If the pick finding device is not activated or the worker does not remove a faulty pick before restarting the
machine.

Half Pick When a pick is broken and is not removed.

Floats These are the threads that do not follow the design pattern and remain out in the form of floats. This happens due
to inaccurate drawing-in or improper shedding.
Crack If a warp thread is broken and is not checked, it may entangle with other warp threads. This results into
breakage of a number of threads causing a serious fault known as crack.
Reed Marks If the dents of the reed are not in alignment they will leave a mark on the fabric while beating up. The
marks continue throughout the length of the fabric and are also visible after dyeing and finishing.
Count No of leas per pound.
Construction warp ct x weft ct/end x picks width
Examples:
Warp

20

Weft

16

Ends

128

Picks

60

Width

63

Weave
Warp Contraction

3/1
10.0
%

Weft Contraction

5.0%

Total threads
Picks on
loom

8,064
55