Haute military: womenswear emerging trend

By Geraldine Wharry, WGSN, 18 March 2014

High-fashion reinterpretations of classic military silhouettes emerge as a key influence for autumn/winter
2014/15, blending authentic utility with couture chic.
WGSN ANALYSIS

LUXE FABRICS

Jak & Jil

Dior pre-fall 2014

COUTURE BOMBER

Fashion bomber

HIGH-WAISTED CARGOS
Maiko Shibata, Le 21me street shot, Paris

WGSN 2014

Relevance:
designers unveiled
creative subversions
of military classics
across the
autumn/winter
2014/15 catwalks, in
line with looks
highlighted in
influential street
photography blogs
Key items: the
military bomber and
parka are updated
with extreme lacing,
while tone-on-tone
black glossy camo
printing, fur panelling
and high-waisted
dressed-up cargo
trousers are also
seen
Fabrics: utility wools,
cottons and nylons
remain key, while
luxe furs and
leathers reinforce the
trend's couture
statement
Colour: khakis,
browns and blacks
form the foundation
of the palette and
are paired with
feminine leopard and
floral prints or
popped with bright

taping trims
References: key
street photography
blogs such as Jak &
Jil, Le 21me and
The Sartorialist,as
well as the Isabel
Marant and Balmain
autumn/winter
2014/15 catwalk
shows, highlight this
as a must-have trend

Maiko Shibata, Le 21me street shot, Paris

Isabel Marant autumn/winter 2014/15

Balmain autumn/winter 2014/15

FUR PANELLING

Paul & Joe autumn/winter 2014/15

FABRIC MIXES
WGSN street shot, Milan Fashion Week, February
2014

GLAM CAMOUFLAGE

Fendi autumn/winter 2014/15

WGSN 2014

WGSN street shot, Milan Fashion Week, February

2014

GLAM CAMOUFLAGE

Fendi autumn/winter 2014/15

Tommy Ton street shot

Anna Dello Russo, Le 21me street shot, Paris

Rebecca Taylor autumn/winter 2014/15

Xiao Wen Ju, Le 21me street shot, New York

The Sartorialist street shot, Milan, February 2014

BOLD TAPING

3D POCKETING

WGSN 2014

Fay autumn/winter 2014/15

The Sartorialist street shot, Milan, February 2014

BOLD TAPING

3D POCKETING

WGSN street shot, Paris Fashion Week, March 2014

Balenciaga autumn/winter 2014/15

EXPOSED ZIPS
WGSN street shot, Paris Fashion Week, March
2014

Hache autumn/winter 2014/15

WGSN 2014