Professional Documents
Culture Documents
The Art of Manipulating Fabric
The Art of Manipulating Fabric
clupr.r r0 QuLrrN.
rot
FORCNORD
PREhcr
. . ........... .. .. .rri
c h a p r c rl
Chaprerrr-Sr!ft1Nc ..22e
lfi
G^l[RrNc...3
M^(Nc FLorN.Es
67
APP!NDIX
chiprrg-{orDrNc
-MrKNc
GoDcrs. .. .. .. 31
.. ..la7
. Hard,s$! Cord.dQundrg
. udrines.{n codtd auirdng
I N D . X .... . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . r 0 4
Controlled
Crushing
A R T $ f * . ir
f Gathenng
GATHERTNG
c i r r ' d n g M e r h o d s . . . . .....l.
luomdiccnh.nng .. ..
BAsrcs
G.1TI'EIINGMrlrioDs
sRb'lL'4 cdhEedsdrctng..6
rhrousLchannelsH,trd, milure,
itrlomad!. rnd onc kind oI ct s!.
gilne'ng ar nanda.d.stfth.d
F r t L n g . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Run.d Eds.
garhd'ng
8alhdins..
... . .... ll
snhdns.. ..
dr i.t.vant
tr
\i
lr!]r].dlgil]rtriri].]tr{.,f
, ,! r! ,![
itT'.
ih.rarLh!
f ) r rh o d
uri{&
rfr
pl
birnrrrr
(34'n
L r n t r $ r u s r ' r t L ) ll u r r t r !
LN.trIn !\rs)
i'rl
nx &!
ru nu (FLr r 3) ,!sd
|n rrbn.
,1,.,;. F
0 r I 0 ! ! $ B
ebsbseqna|Ly3e]ned!.dch
L!lg!DlLl'!|,i,I]l![Ll(!lu
wh l2) eds$rbhhe
Ftsln2eah'lirgskbl,edb'3
bbnc extenstn anada b) wth aD
!"
r/ouadihtr
n6
mlhurr ba[r
rr 0,i ioir
luqDtr.t
!r
ori n{ir
lsrr rtdfLg
L l+j
,fr3 I rr)
iiqr5btsh/@d
r.iddrr
r\lrtrN(
uLtr' 1r) {\
u ijj !{ilD.
(L]
dl:)
Flutin8is a hand.a0pliqu.r!ch.
$hc!
r{ {n.hh8
Lob. g h*d
appliqr or bpillh
ndt h tht
srth.Alordcldmlkdl.d[|mnl
G) ss r dtco'nne nry oIlibbon.
hp, or hGid or bP oI rhc s {hsnnchB h ftri' (F1g I 17).
lReI{ b Ed$ finEh,ie lor
'hich canberomNay
rh an d rrhdnh;
hfk
FEl17sladl2ing3fufudedqe:
(a) wth tu .xtensiarstippeduhder
n*|h|hssarnsfuhedga|heinq
srbh$. (b)wk a b@ han'tsewnb
|hebackal|hega|heirqstbh6
(c) wrh a bpe edc*uched aEt the
'I
]!L](uld.iPclnudm]1.|
SNGLE-EDGE
GATHFRlNG
t. subiln. fte 3ltllednB (rcrei!o
.smbnrfe 6athd.d sfi .hn's
G piddnd
ovd fl.l
Drup.Asinq,-.d* Eathrnnz
.xrendsb rs adFced.dg6 of ,
lqdmd pr.. orrib.. Aslie!trIr,
tt. n16.d lolds dnp. tlMid dr
cmd. and 'l]. no.dns d8e.sith-
dredih6s
- 0ai@!r i1+no'o
As ft. difierencebdweendre
lcnstf,dl r fibfu gd&rl to
n*ch ftar kr8d incft66. thr
rig,4'sine]dga7ah.rngBd.
ahB (a)Fatu re@se tun adta-
ts inp
tutir, i.d!c
rhe hller
drathg pur
sr4r.dr4r?.z/ge 8drrrlg
do6tr har a nortnecdgr rhe
drmrnndnrrfoldsftLr6.d rbn &c
srhsr,g {n.hs dinbnl and drs
rrparn tuoppdst..dgc{hich
5nrcrhed smoo and$cd ni
ro oainutu a naqrhishl, sb]d
'h. sids b.gin ro ddg the ner.d
.dsc ou oI :ltnncnr. rdo ouch
c{h&,!8dn roc r !ry.d.dgr
appNfuedgehEhEs|ayed|lal
and stai4hL (b) ruba stibhad inb a
Figl2lslasEad.eead@b|r
dQ||ingh|MtadgawdMa
dnt@red adoa:la) ared
d tu
(a) s6hed hta tu.hh tti6
patln
Nhnh
tEtd b
FDlln6 muldplirsfrlhs(h
rddrron 10a buirdupot ri.ft/
dtr.{r'sel gd1rrdtr8bmus rtr
ungdhered.d3. ol oneds n,biria thc sathqcd .d8c of d. idr
'ic. rh. g{h.Ed .+e of hbh.
nrip *l is scm ro rheuDsrhned
cdg. or nnP *r; sdhdcd ricr $ is
*wn rd ftc ung{hercd
eds.otfti
!l ?ndso on Ekh rifl inc(6s
rhclensd of ft salhdcd cdsefor
lLc n.x' irt (FE.l 2r).lr lhr
lishhs or LhcgrhFins is also
irqea3l lor suftinvc ri.F. luu
Dca eir iro*s crfus$nrl}
qG jop rn ( nnn)ronr[.
I
i
i
Opposrrp-Enct
GATHERING
madesna trwhen (6hed omo
'abrcbeiwei6eg.derededs*
PRocEDURES
ro g c 'lr oppdrirt ed8s oI a
hns'h ot faLnicadip, $e Ploedtrftsd.slnbdIol.shglt.Jg.
NorEs r VARTATToN5
dpposi.edsen:biltin8 ro archor
borr, grln{Ed cdss ntd Mlruh
'lrc,duscdloLdi h ! dn(nonal
lords lan oovc nraigtl 5d*!cn rhc
pur. 0dhr. or skN: rhe ronnz
rion dfrhe {u I rd tokLrrh{ ar
l$ddld bd!.en rhesdhd.d
Ldls * rht pinrl-. desisr foc$ dl
whd' dPP6ik snh.red elgs
dlnpd folds in b.N{n !&q
.lnP. or Purr Ftr d,7p.J opPdi..
.ds. gartrri{ rh( ErE$d lotds
tnoush rd door or drL dri \sishr
N m $r s.rhrEd ds* ii. !ih.
licd dGfl bgtlh& (Ft r-2r.
Fq Pufed owstu 4e e!a9ng.
lrt lol tohard ber\tm rk gxln.
trcd edss nB, bl Eridldy shon as
,tuy G enrcn d'. garhcadrds*
of I rwo$ nnP of hbn. hn*d or
dnPing. rh. rords,bsr wvrld
brEkins up rnb $irriry rktgB 'd
psk (Ft r 16).rhrdoPd or
purld .Jrd so\* Nort p@reun..d
a5rhenry btunes $rallc !nhk.
&!FnTpos {u.suLherins.
p''Ilrdopr$iL.eds.garh|rnson b.
Fgl,6snipo|kh.g2beQdan
c'p6lb6d9es'slabizedlaa3E\
Fig127,opp@ib.ad@galhe,ia
Flg'13o|]sing|he3lashand.
edg..ga|h6|irpafuhatnbe
ga|heredMonaneedge|h4|he
ohe|andsla|d|aadanob'
Ev.n.ulat owBtut tdE gdlh?r
ii3, c cn& of a fabricrnp *e
i.sid. cdg. nccdsvay rghr garh,
4hson raryenitchs (th.l,qe
tht nn.ha, 'he sEallrthc (nt,1
op.nins)Th. oppolne.dgt-rh.
outide of rhe ctclFis l,gh y
$ sed rhe sathccdnrip.rtr b.
m,nipulft.drnd a n4, qheel-lik.
6 ddemircd b),rllc,ndmrol
s:rhsine on th. oubide edse.
srh hrv dep fords,.ollkEd
1rcurd a cminr axis, lhd dimh
Lh a lrn ndDre1owaid
rhe
outr edsc(rjs 1 29).ro sathq
'hr ouErcdsc,$c srip nur b.
ronsd rhrn rhecircunfercnrt or
.dg. vir cwruilly br shbilued
rn.. Gr.lnleErce = dh,ndq x
I r4) as$c hrgd n.aslrem.nr
*hn srimarjDgrh. r.4'h leedd
b g{hcr rhe ourt! cdg. a$ip a!
aid. * r hdtrs or $e immdsi
dEuL,rourrintwir g,,hs rLr
'hzn'h. idi$ oI 'he inEndedcir
QbrourLinr. qho SdhdEd o!
oppGft edss. vill d.vatr tn rh
= ilrt
'l
fi**
,.:."---"-.
\,-:
s.\1";;7
/:.
]%._:
: il:
r:..-,d..-*1
1,r'.;$$
i
ALL-SIDES
GATHERINc
PRocEDr,rRrs
r. sd.d ,irgq shaP6$ih sinph.
N.ompl,otrd orri!6 ro dmti
o all-sidc sadu.J p rn nn
Fn byxn {Lualanou{ nl
b|a|lfubpanddawfuldesb
ebp ftu nusltered
jnctid.s
drct.s
W)
9e
Thcrun.d rtrrrdds lhePuf
corcpr a *ep turrn c.nr hc
pufi !n(re insid. r hl8q .tutc of
rabr!.nn.h oi rbeourtiiEotrht
p{fl dnk and8i,her findins rh3
grhe6Ld\r*n,hEromcard rt(
Pur roI louMn,n (Fi: r,r4)
I
sh s heringd6dib6 .h
rvc6. sd oI pufl sdh{in8 shtn
n beohA lie nglt side Dinple
by nli6s
lik poin6suroundcd
rh.
pufis
Tne
ft.
Ioldsreplace
back
ol
rh.
on
the
cinultr ontlbs
rabtu an'l pmeed 6 dcdb.d ro!
pnfg{hnns roi Pi.ned nir
grftedn3" $. dnplG exPud hro
Q-"r .-o
J#as
;-:tQ\i*_
pt-o.
i
-:ri
r a n a ^ c a y o y a\ t ) s h . r t b ) 6 a h e t t e h | ,
-?.dsich4ld)fwoycyTsb
a rcwat ya ws Mbh
.. be jored la anah,4 ow at ya 16 and il an
, {,,9!'i'3
ho Li(hrL'nrd
: ::
l -
. !./-,
3
'=,?a
)hei.
.i 11
rY.i
.'fLn
) Shirring
SHRRING
whengatheredoimu|rip|elwsol
* &hingsM *nisht eds rhe
d*Emsd ,a h PqErhrow5
PRocEDLTRES
nea{rcnenL lor th. shtrrcd
fsbri. to n ch. D.cide how
gnhenng *ir.h.s shoulddB'
puy-slisLr, modmt, s.nd
os. ro 6rim.re de hnsrh ot
nnshirrcd l:'bft n.eded 'd pro'
du.c th. desind lullncs b d.
shirrtd fabdc. muldply rhe E.
g.' dc*ultEmr
dqhtilrK
by 'ne aEouDr
.lbodlrrtr
@renmirh6.:s4dl r 3 (lnoE)
2. Addinga $cona basurcnem lor
ft. non{hirEd l.nsth, ot th.
hbii Nob lnd shicd hbn.
shriir<rs4hdy d.K 'n e h'
ftd sriching (Fd xrmpl.. i
D" (r0 5cE) squr shiBl 'o
6" (15tb) my shhnr<r (5nr)
rrcn i6 non shirtd 11" oojm)
bs'n As :he nunber ot sarh
crd bwe Inc@s. shrink4e
halv6.qmir.r'nat * lbr
mdchedto corespondingses
ro PrePaErhtabrn lor gdhd'nB,.oY* tht mrl<.d lin6 wrh
srikhs. n.chin+seM *nisht
sdthlag'oiztgzagsdthulgryd
''6*heringMerhodconpss.r).
thnid. sdng. dr .od i onc.nd
(nrhinc *wing) oI mch snn
c*her ech ro{ oI nirhin8 ro a
,hllslbpsW,hii,hebbx.s,.ded
.
4#
I L l r r j t!r!
jrtll+riir
.'4r"1]urq.ar!i!!\riirr
ridaiDah rbtra.iadarrhe.enrar
lffii,ji:rT.r'-rl]ntr
.b ? 5 srn4
!a!r*r
dh rale
Norr5 a- VARiArroNs
L hh, r r F , r r r t . r r L r , f i \
g ( F , Bl r a n d( f r r b
,i{r
-|]rlr(
s't|fflbn!l]tG
LrLhtro$\nl i
rio{r
r L r de o
l0l
\trh radnntrgrul!15
!Drorr{rrr)
dutuE!
\1'.rr(0,D$ n'ir s
!.nhuD8
.{0\
a r*nrrrribur!
{rudurr (rcir
I!h-
rornru.
o crhsirn
ii. drrEd
og
:<
: ;
' -
A v,iiahn dl puff.d3hnnng
I,ufl.d tin .nbtl|ishs lounds
|@nchellwhm|hgskeMTangb
fuq'hhoshj|d.gsalE||@
sfuingafuysnaww'mwng
|hedescendi.g9lfua|rE9kewed
wh{6
Puredshinrg
Th. rcladonshLp
b{we! rolds
andreNso{ gadcrednndng
thangGfmo PrPlndiculai h dirg
ona|{htn shtn4 G sk$lrd
5asdt
:=
bcNe!
qns
sdrhd in
aubidefudinchanng|so|k@an
-Ee
rirt
aL nF ir
i n1:r{3,1!'rii
ie /r' oi,rf
f! tii !d n r
siii rFdrt
ild-?ri.'ni.G'r'lqr..4ot:'gil,t
ir , E rlf
1a,r
0 r: i.1. ij . rfilrlnro
ri trrcd(l
i trii ,).!r!d bl f nq, !
]tl](ibr/(addju|n(ilr!d
{i! oillcr
f, f,-ir i4, fry ilr
rhEcil!orj:Id!oreA]]!]
lia@'[tl!L:de!ll]xr]fi'
H T (,NC
PATTERN
SHTRRTNG
-6brn automr a t 3hhd wnh
the sathedngrod IonN ry a dsisn
,. srekhhcs.ndrpinrhcccs
sd.hirs{nd'g(h.nng rrcceed.
viiia'idB in rM spr.in8 rnd nr.B
ubnnsh r stithingPalnPm
dua dir6q in rh. nli* or nsn'
dd shtring sftdr lcnsthud kn$on adjunnmG 'hd frodiry ftc
lqhftir,4ishde$ oI rhegithdns
,dd mort dhcGion Thc loo.\
gaLh.iingktion .an b maDually
nnucd by inhihidns l!. hbft
fron movhg aslly bw,fti rhc m.
de Io inft*
fu1ln6s.Fm th.
frbrc by holdingit do\r Nr'h i
6nss a ir emel36behind&r
dr labn! buikls up in b&k or the
Bcrusc or tlre ddry nd .on
pl.xi1) dr rh. e hcKt $n.hiD8,
pikrn- and mrandsjhired rabhc m rcldivcly sron3 Dd i,t
rDmsR$.nd
norr4d prcredion
rtittr ssbilizin8 mayte quiftil
BsE a sby b rh! shnftd hbnc
funak
ro tiE sarherednirhrie
i )r
irit
qqqli,
rt.rr.
PATTERN
S H i R RN 6
rirj
.icansod!rnqtrtokno@su4roioliddae,
4 d'otr.
E$!Ei
iiir riff'
fcrcii!n$roioonoi
@l/F0![dhsoE@nrtrfurdg@Ern!l!e
Supplementary
Fullness
*
g
mIry
; *
, .
J Mahingk"tfJles
RUFFLE
BAslcs
EDGEFrNrsHtN6FoR
RurFrEs
Do$led.?bn... .. ..
+4
nune desigrE
. ..
56
b)cddoublctdg.J n8s7
rull.d doubh.e4ed
rurl]c. t7
s LDtsh(h..dge lhetnqfta
Lr{ of lirdrd rnmd or *dhq
lxr{ of fahnc,noronlyp}orc6d.
rdst or ,he nJne bur ?lsorfi.cr dr
$duooleofrh.lu l.i noNr[k!
G sdheRdor pl.dcd I sdfr
u,,hr.nd qrsr rhnh hasrh.l.d
cfcd or rrr."foRr:, nm. LrGd
shrll Hm
onrrmktd [dg.
Ronqr
o{rro.kedEd$ng .+e
sinslc.srdtnLm.
Lnltitd sidslrcdscdrun6 .51
Pufirdsingledg.drume 52
rppsmc
s{fl1s
trstrrpkldn
r h . n o nr h . r i n s [ o n b c n n f
mnrd G 5dytdgt f
douhlLd fab.
tu bF or 'h.
non unnnll,ngrunhdwnh.ur
r snip
ror.,dnuh, 1orhc.dsc.
Lrncol sdrhtd rhread
ri. obviors
on borl,sid.sorrh. rum.rwrl, orlj
rit4ir
nn ed3e.aPPrePrhrfor
on rll ord
rJd ndl,is b Lhr
dethnioDoI rherufie! .d8t cnt
llnishbgquicklynnc ronnwd
't|E piri.d
eatadhs
ft beNn.d{rhotrr{}Lng
hndd
t6en
l,
andhbri! 0r or ftknsrhsnLn.
ol rh. r.bd!. pdrr uP,hL rlod ot ,
(Fis. r ,.
:,.,
a n,mrfih a
tns edses:(a)sinde4d@ntufte
.tip (b)Dalbled@d ruttbskp
b|edsrbhrng/galhahglplea|irglire
id.is!,
l-r--
rrt
ota tune st@ G) Ma.h)nelbh the
drdire ta rhe skir wth 'sLt .id6
tdqethcr Eirhat tb) hantt nkh bo
brdededge|olhe]ah|ngseann
ba.k, at l.) ptn he bindns. tabed
edse beydndthc hhhs scan h
T\
tv *l,
'in th,cttibn
td) sew th,adndrng
Fiq.3 6 (a) tnrsde b.ds *M b
2 tune slnp, t6) lundd b the 6a.k
tu,h a eantauredand edaes chej
|fulngedgeslllxuchedinba&
(d)Decatat e ta.]@ dth both ede6
\!tr,,
ro rrf
n n P m 6 L n L \ i hi i d . r f b u
dtbnrdir*ro1rr
(Lll. ifis J i)
\i!a'iri
Ih. r no.r
oldNhl. t0ld
dla nm. \tL , d.hq $llor
trdt u'ollrr
rd
b n G i n o t h . r o r dt ( { f ?
1t
r \!,.; s;b;;;(:.-
t
lir no,shr nkht,l ,ro,rk lord
't
,-*
wh a p)nred
la) staishtnibhe Men ctt
cDt (c) gded
Lah he
l rd
.ri
r {r!h{rtd
mrs\trhoft
r0'
$inrlis
ik
.l{tJJb!bln(l.lh..igl.
P(*(
Lqd !, LruL,h,o,
r.j,sr
'ir
ihDAro.n|ot i+r rr
I
t
E
i
!
=
N-{s
1 si,sreroLdhinrnx
lrin,
1\'tlltlg.]\nLrfN,|hol'l'
r ri)
Gerrrnro
SINGLE-EDGED
RUFFLE
+
of ftb.k virh on. hn!
ldge"dp
sthered b a $ora aE4
n.uuroma! md id.hen @ iht
6brr.,-Iheoppgne edle floc h
PRocEDtrus
Fs.3.m (a)LdM.dsirc M a
t#t\dt
tb) wq sdsitg n tias.
Flg3zzFab,n3hp6aJ||6ga[t
eted sinde4de.d tunh6 tua
|!||bddhahdasenalbwM
b6dekogdhlings@whh
edge r ead 8 ftqdEd |ol fu Ch;
dldNilrix=
lr4dt x 1 {rmor)
arewen'|hghlangl$fubdh
(Efc ro
rhe hrsd m*surme{
"6aihei3Me,nod
on pasc 3),
scung bside ih dslgDad
sanline inside th. *m .Uo*
arcE ro drr dth I lengdy ruf
nc nhp g{h.rd on Pulledrftsd nitching, divide &e de.
b be 3lrhd.d imo [rlvB, qu,i
rE. or.iqh$s; ru
rhedni
sons bdk.n *cEerB !i'h
hawasfudgeedqefu''
large||fustip'dndextahb|b
frnne:4elfidhqakru|||e
. Forbi,ycutsr,Fim rh
hbric Ijrh lins fiat .rcs ln.
.
Dtsrnhr 'nEsa'necdmlr
6. Pd rn. g,rh,rededseof lheruI
lle sdp ro rlc l,bd. \'hFe it r!
b bc applicd;bsr dtedy ov.r
lne g{h{ins nfths Machine
b6idc ln. basGg/cadcnng
$tcn6, hidins rll .onnndion
nn.rils ard the 3afidcd $m
allowana in 'n. prcc*s of
Fi!325'IoiFenafohlairlaa
,@n (a) Basb uEtufltdb tabic
*1. lb) Ph ttbk 12ow he tuttb,
bes@ theha.ins G)aph@r
. As, hcn ru(1ctlEr lis on
bp of rhehbnc 6 whichir
Irom $c f,bft to whrh I
is dkched For top nfis,
Fis I ll on pag. i) For
loi rarins *,n allowancs
inchd., (l) ziszassdrhirs
(Fis. 3 16); (2) c6nne wirh
, litus o! ildsibre hchs
(nld b rE 4.9 on page70);
G) coanng sth a d{ohlR
Iacins(w thc rmc dshr
nd. up b rh. wronseideoI
rh. hbnc {d run rheri.ug
6 thc fron0i(4J .ds.nnc[
i
ae. 323 (a)Funb*sbd b tu
edsaota circtebetaEtb)edse.
oEilPs :covo$
ft.
NorEs r VARTATToN5
,trumcofso(lnhrabnc.an
b. gdh.rcdmuchnon dch+ lna!
B@!a r rurncor on drebns
tn& b zb6orbsarhdsr 'h{
nitching lde, a hi6-dr rumc n,y
bc garhd.d nu.h FoE rshrty rhsn
a rumedr o rhc sn$hqEh of
rh. ene fabnc Topftduurtracdc runns a, rhenoadrscdge.r
widerumenecdsughE!sadenng
Rnfilt niPs mrr br g,rhsd o!
rhEd nn.rd by hard or shicht
q zis4g{lilchcd by hachine on.
!rip! sathqedlid trsft b nod<r ddTry br shk. s*henng r
nor ssily omrcned sth fr!
nvsorsdahing.wltny &or
sLbhhEavettheedseat th tuhteE
. A, ,heedeeoI sDrrelftr ln
lill b. rPPliqudto a toundi
rla mdrk
applhdasfub|he|abicbedge
bffi6kegalhaingedgea|ke
A nsr.,nrrr ru.t. hn . g u
ing dg. rhap.d ii ascalloPPr
rm carlrnng inighrns our lhe
{i.hhyaPPLnrion rinenn'ghr
Donlrrts$eIoLdarhrfioa.ie
|dg. Af,{ sihnng ald aPnLi'rion.pull r. rwohltE dfrheruf.
neap* ropoulrh.bodyorlh.
En (.ja 3-3t).Ruf[6lcs un
f,(2 t.b) wid. frunclEeffodsr
*pan.ng dr. h)rs DoublednJ.
116ot .nsp [,bir ]" (5.h) $ c dr
6drt nlf e irh th! mor bnor?n.r
loped ro rnd
|l[ ilhdud| onsi
nill!.ur inr rhegrhftrng.de.
(b)
ris. e
,!fltepat
t4 strate.sndn
oP!nid3.
flj'ro andb*r $ rhe
wnlhednd@bhkthesbfu\'
whn a rufr]c 6lfd
d rar.d
(dr ro t4e Fhishins ror Run.!
on paseti), .onou!ry lne floding
.d8E.a! oPdon.shilc rltc.4. sil
houdlc lbh nrli3hr o a dmp.d
16
Fie.e. (a)DaMhbrc
itr.
s|np.0|he'highlganan|l
pLqins.lb) s@tatins thes2thercd
taFE wh ttu heb d 3 dowet.
reiFi}:oadlaJfo!ltci!,ili':nll!i'j.*
4ie"-!'lr
dE ! 1 ,- ri-
,!T
I 3 ! " ( { ! ' q r . , . r l i r : 5 r Di ,
rir b d: td
jn
!I fie !ll5
TPE'
\,LE:D:!L]
.F
GATHERED
DoUBLE-EDGED
RUFFLE
rnripo|hbrtFthered6a
sdbmeds4fEFadth
add{nd
sarherednkhrns i the
Fb 3.36.ropsM
appbran tu
tuubb edeedtudtee:(a)staiihl
ftnaftd a@tu.
lb) za2as
PRoctDLrxrs
r. choo* m rPPrcPnnca .IIc
rlr rinrh rd h. flo,h8 eds*
of,hc rumeEld edg.nay hlYe
,hr *ft or a dif6e finish
(R.t( 0 .Eds. Fidnhinefor
Rur06" oDpige 1l ) ro d{s.
oinerhdd,rr oI d. rum.
nrp sc' i I'nthed rlidlh for tht
rulle on s.h sid. oI rhcmrred sdkhins linq hdud., fo!
dd, nd.. rn irorEn.e fol rh.
*kcGd.dge hnbh:robl nL
n4surndas (Fie r rj)
r .ollo{ rheprceduns ds.nbEd
for .gRih.ftdsbsk{dscd nn. ,
nPs:r md |:r, on pag$ 49-j0
r AnrLrrh. *rcdrd hdh b borh
ronsedss orrhcnn. snp
(ft.rcd nn.hi4 rincpilh '
hbrn $r mcd,uh or a pr6*d
n.
by *3nHr
ro rhe iargd
NoTEs& VAru{TioNs
t. wirh a tabfic eit n.diuh, ru*
st,ichtoldning|ins'lr(indi
.aE rhe pr.rtn.n' oI &e Dfie!
gatn{ed nir.hing. Foi esy a.rtr,
n.y fark 0orh* lin. ro rh.
4h' rbr 'h. 4shr Edseof tht rul:
ne 'o ner (u*.hrlk. di*ppor
'ng p!. a row or p'ns or r r.n.
ponry lichq F$cd lold)
Makljns $. na. b the suide
rd. 6r51irch on thr g.rr.d8
srirl'c b ibch th run. b llc
round,don. un nEishr or apprc
s-:,a,1
sdrhin3lnc bclotr8a'n.dnBrErdr
'o $e silhoudG oI dr. 0e!t$ eds6
gabeh!Addefua@|a|lhe
Fig'3'B'Namqdauble.edgedfoL
fiesercl&ira|qn|i@Mvs
Fg'341'D@ble.adeedfuMlcp.
sli|tfuwihd94bL.Jr|@lfuw
@@M h6 spad a Mtuel
tur highma$ednm6. mwsdr
doubh{dssl ans m rop6dEhed
bgeLhd$ dos.l! L\i rdjamr rur.
n d dg6 arcfoNd up\2,n to nm'
,bourolc-Dmedd'h lbo{ Iounda
rionlsd, bu41ngd. bpsrithedad.sa,rrftd *ins (Fig.3Jr)
6*
or
w
picviouly a@hEd
rum6 o0 to the left oI the pr6d
Ioo! hold $c .dg or i\e ddd nI
ne ar) rrofr $. nrtdt ud r ruls
wbn. bpsrirchins rht nes nm. A
ond rpphdton $ll nccd band
Fig3.40'Nafuvdfuble.adaedfut bl rkhn
rh3 fleibiliry or doubL{4.d
nmb. cnwing rherumealtG rh.
nort of bothdss rhe aordng
Iold5o! 'h. hid. cdct ol rh.
.une ina*rt l+il. ihr foldson
$c ouside cdgedeqese { 'ne
nep. '1. floding ede.lotd on
rh. outr oF-. vill *rcth out md
rurnuPunl.$ rh! gdharngar rh.
srft tr aPr.blly lghr *lich
will dus th. lullDssdedd o!
rhinsideof rha.urv.6 swdlin.o
buhds rolds only nno* ium6
r" O ttn) oi l.s {ion.dgc ro
tdse areued ror afl. /.ri!E.
F4ful'Layeid|l@Irgedqsso|
bieht. nshq hbh abve the t@
fufud|dpultingaiqFfurnq
raPq oLlin rheendsor douSlc
.dgrJ flrfls fiI noP vnhin rhr
Iounddionrabrn rapenrg involvc
ldldins dr cid of rh. rumcsdtj on
r[c {n.hing ]incdrh rjabrsids
kcingud*wi[g, *
lhd grad
n* ro $. drhersidtortne gnlr
dtd aan Br hard, scq.rq fie
8:th.r.d qn {trh rirh6 ftlr
Fa34Prep6n4gafu'bl*ed@d
:s!!!+!!!!ojraql|ljnddl
oprn,pulldo*n,andri.k
_ir.!rloai4
^rq!!rs
I
lt! 4.!d)
__-,/ in;a;;;
'lldrL\trLlll.fi(lnDindl
Hn'd.d,4bs
'1a I r.ded
: l
ffi
-.-1*;,r.
i!
\'1.e.
q4i
il!
:.-t:
16
.-?i!
, , f,
PLEATEDSINGLEOR DOUBLEEDGEDRUFFLE
- srip ofhbfr. redled in hnsrh
ry sl*mdc roldinsaidorud wid'
dkhli8 ,lons oie eds. or den de
.4kin'e dseor ed8* of i dac
en rufrefdr h Esuhi oderry toldr
PRocEDtRrs
r. c6e i pk{ing snrngemenr
Ior li.
mc Gig 3.aq) DKide
wherherfte lolds wttl be pN.d
z. &lkr d.dgc 6ntshL\at{ill a{{,
lh. to16arfte nod ,ge6blt, o( 'I
drcple6 a to bEpK.d, in
dsellirsh tnit wilLaaeptshsa
cr.ig (nra b "EdgeFinishins
I-llJ
l.
Fiq.3.50'rofup]eabwhire
n^edan|hesLpgihdEdpola
sbdln*dleilNinbdb6|P6hil
crip xE je tattud tatd
the
pdnbd|ip4|he|abic'li,eunde|
"tk
Fig949Pl.abdfufuarhgemnb'
NoDs - V,4fi-arroNs
Bfsrh rh.QPlkdjonsan.
pLeredrufis arcsrodh filn d6.
.iPlinedrords,nd unddtaycre.
conp,id ,o sdhercdsirrsk dsrd
Prcncdsinglccdgurn ma (em.
Lns'n. eme bllet
e k$ bnlky
At rhc nod. Pl.rkd oms rcll inb
ainnsd fdld5 rhe r}?e of pt.d
rtfcdsdr ddn idvrkd pleu
6
lhirc box Plear er$!r Pt.nrg
ar sc'ndrs 'h{ i.a'!rt roalied
fullD$-e*5
isolat.d in bdw{!
lnldedbdxp]abdfuflbabmbly
iEitu as r n@h@
n iaht curc.
-i =.
.:t=;
4-
( MahingFlounces
R4nrlra
CTRCULAR
FLouNcE
lh. dudng
inne4!ho@* edge.TheronsEt
edgendth9v*hdfo&'
PRocEDURES
cnd,njnda-'he
nEi+r
dNde
cmeslcurout.
rhesnrr rhe
Diond'-any
ni8hr Liie
Fig+lciblsdi!@inbh|eei@
cu@ bat hecffi4 thetuttdened edseat he raw
funlbalCina|cu@a|i1fu14'
ro slun. a llouc, smpL In.
cfid of &nrEr cdou6 6n nry
'hesn. in d.pdrandshghknd
hng'n fieapplirim sn
I Tod6ft a d(uLr noun( psc
ja,shr nir.h
rltr guL,rcriNr
. nou(
]fuNngo|'htn6rig.dgld
nhnd
sdn abB
cd 0 open
edq$lbhnenbbelddalsan
.lE'edb*ailh|en|U|heap'Ea'
.,lses,bosk rhc0oume,dghr
sidetrp,ro l!. nght snL orfib
iic #t. wift dehLsid6 rq.ln.
q pi! bbn. .2 Ns bolhand
suv rriFuehanhYG !q' 'o
Mnd cdseoI rxbn.*z o!{
n@!.. .nd dgErirch rhmusn
Fig'4lh+@.epMfu|a|a
the
tuthE (a)attd tud1tudins
tbum b kbto 81,M ptntdbtu *2
ed bothwtthdqhtstu bgetha4
d (c)ph amtsde$ttdh thelutu
ed@d|26fuPove|d]*dm
sidc dM,
.In:h.frtdtnent {d Bind
rheldge whena floune lts
on top ol dr rabncb wnich
itn nkch.d 9.w a mrc{
ddc down,ovF 'ne uounc.l
rm rhelindrngovd sll $,o
JloNbes rotheb{k. rnd
*e fsbncunderd* nounc
fN{qD'd{*olippldbq
.rrdo /rourdb&ub
]nftdul$5ndsddjdJ''3lug
a$!
or L(\!dr
r$5n
{f2)
dipptrBll(
5qn
f
t
ri+, i
. o(r irFl
1|q([ioidtlnrl0u((qljJ
nr[{
arot0'0(
'rr|lfus
!]) rorLl
beLo\:
rl,! 5!ntnn.s or
.r.:rr i n|a
i! i,r
CoNTRoLLED
FLouNcE
PRCJcEDUtE5
ld) cqta@
Lonih{Jj'L[!!d4.f
- \ -
ha $t he lasredindsirtad hb
(,
ir rr|5 r r3 + ro.iid
I
s slrl involeG inlom.d guca
rclk Paddd.E lor tlE qid.dine
fi {ill prcdua dishr nppLs,
nodek w!v6. or lavBi Iolds i!
r
dr flodrs .dg. ,ie .{n$sd
vholc
lot.
c,
r
sln.hhriHln
sonsh4e in berw{n addiion
rlly, rh. chanden{ns of thc
inknd.d f1btu .nd dr finnh
applid ro rh. no:dns.+.lill
afccr rh rypEErc dI iny sn'ounr
ot flared rulln6! Id bdoi final.
nins a lonhll.d flonn.e pdtfr
nounc afrer it is appli.d, rlmgc
lh. fl:nns n lnr noiing dse io
Efl<r $. inrcn'idnsoI rhcpnkr
{hiL rhc flounce n han8ine. dr
drau..ndpi! b a nrsu kt
Nolfs . VAR,ATToN5
nounccwonrNork,acorhlled
md d'm
--^-
\/"---\-
-".\
J MahingGode*
L{1ll<rh. pdcn, fim nr
wrcnesid.oI r rabic$$
Goorr
obioun.ed
3cd4l-
sedon ot
rlonrh.poinron rh*n.
PRocEDURES
l For ech sodd, shd . poinr
icide tnepdh or 'ne labnc
$h.n fi. CddaMII b.gtn i6
srnd. The dndne fmn poinr
to lo{s .dsc .quelsthc lmgh
or $. god.r aid inclld6 , hm
. lt ll.I
ic b uBemca, connd sch point b the lower
dgefr'hasftjghtsb+lh.
pclpcidtu|iib&ccdgt,
5 u.u.
((a)andO) in ru. t 1)
NorEs 6 V,4Ri,{TIoNs
alrhoqh dingukr god.c ,r
Eul. godeGa wide 6 r nru cirle
.nd 6 lar8ea a tull orre {e I*i
bl. wh.n .xcQdonilly ltrsh,ltu
wid. s'a.r oI labric with $fffci@t
Uy b nmd o$ and dwry fFh
nddng .ds. s L prcj{c u.l6
fie lor{ .(l3. is eron3dedwho
dr sodd E ddsld (Ftg.t4).
lflhdgodd t wld. andlong,
brne dMppliotioD ror 1+hdE
b.fon L.minc to alow fte lt6 oI
rle &bric b enl. lI fte hbdc te
eii andloosrryMYa &e eodd is
lhbL b $s lron i6 satr u.l6
alov.d & sftGh out htorcln*!
don rLry tn. sodd rloE Ib p.br
for 2,+ho!6 bdor sdng tnb th.
aIF bitlubs ln. oqaneo<Ld
wltd pLdg , hd ftrtudt
fdr sod.6, bBidd lh. d.se of
cuse at fte ll@dns edsdoI fi.
o{ th. lib'
soda de che.tsttu
n.. and thz .fd dI m .ds. finish
on dr. swe.poI fie no*. "EdAe
hrshjls rE Run6' @ page4l
dc.nb6 p6{biXc: Fd Llc.
sle sodes.dd b thse choicc a
de.pq,sinsl old flar hn,6d
.rclnd rheoft, p.rh.p6 Mth '
slbbte srill:tue l,id iGid. rhe
rhe hndlzt ^i4.de. B panlir to sod6.!t s@ E a squd,
!$illy or lrgh., d.lidt r.nric. on
comft or the qure b{on6 rhe
poi ol th. sod.q.:ch sideo{ the
q@re .qu'b rheld$h oI ft.
gddet.Fdi so sid6 dr th. squre,
$l.cr sn .ds. tDish ihsr lsvoF a
sofi,nuidno.r (F8.5-5).Afrer
A. squd l(F3 to r floatinspobt
*lIre
F'955'squa|egafu|c|eal$2
handk'chb|edqerhefufuE.t
u!l1hlPcd5l,5hP$nrirsnMn
poi
c.l:aT9
Systematic
Folding
,\
$ Pleating
. Hmd-Fo@.d Aaonlion
PrtsingPrlats............ 39
sehmins Fkr .nd hd.l
. MiniA(ordronPledns... lll
fleG .... . ..........
.............s0
. (nife Pl.tu . Bd Pls6
. Rorrb{kcdddce Pl46
r carridc. Pkac... ............r03
Prc@dursfor b4 Pinch,
PRrssNc hEAr5
Prcclduro...... ..........
. .. . S1
PLEATBAsrcs
ertridSrPlE6................101
cobtetplas.. .. . ..........106
s.h.rddge Ple6........107
Dur.d .inddg. pl.aB .. r07
HfMMiNG F!,4T I
P,4nrrArPrE4rs
whci rrl!:hs lmgdrv 6bnc,
Gbn. .rc al\qs snuiEd mobh'
sivdr uDle$rb.xppln{on rnd
I l.dilB ednBtn.ir nmkeir
uDrvonLibr.,Nc rosr joinie
ronnirr nn PhaG,plRrtjoinins
ssn dn rsu Iolds,or cmrtEd
Rndfdi,l pldr prt{m piobl.ix
! r! hmoi8 th.n .n s!
oprionr$h.nndlfsu, rh.*ao
rlto{rie (l) Pre$thchnlrft,ld
{an rlloNrnc opcDand nr Im'n
rh. loN( eds.h,hc d.pd oLrlr
hcn Iur up Lh. h.n andnith.
ofrh. hmro treeit rromcdnhtr.
(2) lkn, s.h ptce oI trbri! ft{.
'lD*NsI!(sbge'hei
b
cdL.dgcottu *nrllownrs
rlr dqnh oI rhehem(Fis 6 z)
Nd
'hr pk$.
Pi.$ widr a
hor ron und rn! dol|l tsdry hollins rh! ilon ftnl) h plac to 5$J
n$m dN! 'hou8h 'h. rolds
rh a{ d ifipdrh!
hsh
fLA T TLEAIS
E-ilri
lRersb"PhaPrcis
on Palee0)
iin
rhn Llffhrj
q,f rdiar.rr.01,rn
adjalor pLlaGLoguD , eu
dr d6ieirl
rl.A!
poN'
lirlr rosdhrL
b.'!.k (ri)
Mo larc!.1hbf.
'lnD,lr
rL
5urlgNdgrj'nf,[uout'
{!h pler (hE DW rold L a o
odd B!Bi' Eil, 5lisordip
btr\*o'|dldsdplkdi.Nllnts
soirdivo (t rr rrs 6t
Noffs
[nr.
t VARTATTcJN5
box ,i
DwFd ohr!{.
pl.rc 6Pleic lt
ir i!o) d{P
(ar
bd[
(Rdf
xrnDlrs
qq\!r
tl|f
n, | $'Ds tsh,
(d, rkarroLd.
o) F,rs+rir.h
(.1)E(itssrrl,Lun 'ht tup
(( L b
shhiif,trg
Grturedsfuhtri{ oo prBr6
rnD'kngrhr{,
UnI.,lar'L ov .lEnseir dr
hLflt !i'H. r Lhrbrd! or h\ {trJ
b4(o
is
idF(r
Dftr fold5
fs-rr+i,srh|
t h'i! Db h!
lorL.r,hd sol {!ord ,hnd df
ldN{o
F96.9Dhgara]t@lleh|ngha|
Dolrhdo,,i/.drkdlrlglrro
Fa611|,ahEde|lFfublh
r a 5iiPh
Fig6laexp]ealswrhlhelwa
fupled'andpba|dephsslaqgered'
It
t
t
E
:
h--a
PARTIAL PLEATS
b<nve.npl.it (pl.rt,l.pfi
pls
rnr or bd p *E rorm.d b/
kwin8 spe.hllr dBrsisd ple* sen
riotr roedheii Inve*ed p sE
Iom8d by ss is uidtrL:}s beeeen
5pa.1 y dsiqnedple! *ctio6
PRocEDUREs
(.)
(b)
rr Nm loll!\Lrsr! qtrLDr
NoIIs
t VATiJIT]o\5
0 ar! or rfr
rLPlord
(tr5
nirgs .h9s'nlhas,ry
of Lh! oi&ls(rois
&Ddnr(Lr
h]D.\ronsnJ. ur hx{.,lr
ltr urd.{o
l!.1
i {
r,j
i:
PLr.A.Ts
PRocTDUREs
FoRBor.
PrNcH,PiPr Olt6aN,
AND ROIA/1CK
C,{RTRD6E
PrrArs
lLerld13{L.L!dud]rLlL!tr]P
rdrc.rprr5,r!sliLq
-.'l'
lin6 ontnhersideoIu.h
p{rl.l,h.lold
(2) Pushins'h.
clvlhthtIl8hlsiltdlsjd..
s?mlin.s on lnhr5id. df
och pldallo\d&
rogdhs
ddeIninrrysam(Fc 6 26)
Fig6.^t"awedqdrp|@6'
,,_i
{l).u@chPkr( h,gccu*
'hnds,ndk rhcL\iid dlBr b lnE
,4b b@ heqer
ba nnr t ) td.r dt D4
at Fa -
ct!
il lotds bdoft
dn.hinc r]]c0ngd{n6.d 6E ro
rhePin.*am.Fingc Pns tu ,qy
roldsd dredd6. (3) tuDor dc
Pns,rr6ng No inrrio. pteb
rrh rom I suPpodfd! 'hdde
q'<ior pld trhnh .unts a6und
foldsol dr strftundiq Prdro
prc$nr 1hc
hny it doelr spaced.
Rdlbr.kdnii'lg.plu6.whnh
look like snall. rsr. pipeo,Ean
kEPddli\
PRoCEDURES
FoR
CARTrrDGaPr,EATs
rc
stqle'foldhenlohi!8,lk.b
aodrnglr,Tddnlhcp|66.
0 ) md rhela oI dr fsbri. on th.
hsd,ng rrbalk d$ nrc unironr
s$ ol lrrridR'anrly,Fted do6.
Thetlishre bd{en rncdoEets
&EdplnoI r]t plsb {2) tun{u
dy 'nud ii andourof $. do6 in
ech w Gig.ell) md saftci Fd!
ins $c tabncdo J.ely r,y.rtd
rolds G) sundingrhpke6 on tntl
sri . {ill. rqq n}: tuk 'heEn
ot och loll rd,rE 3ry 116raroosrhe
roP.rhenI tht borcn Gig er2)
l
NorEs I VairATloNs
rs,sd or a n4i atigntdb $.
roporrh. Dkxrd Lbnq bbn. m,y
h. plaEd ro r,\c lowd .dgt of hbnc
du' c{.nds abs dr plrd{d hb.
J'_v--!/__\f--]-^
1-\/-\--Y-\'.-/--\.--\
rords
ol rhrdhP. ro doP..$chb
nc NaDe pu pl' nui be
ntrlh widd $an rhc$kMllokd
p.r pl.{ o! lh sbr Tl[ $rr
shoud b. rpprupii,crr drP eid
rq@rinms arrdl.Pt(6,
dr spk h.ed Plss shnnk b lne
rig'342'T*ingheb$alb'fud.
adddgeplealla]d'basbybe|m
Touru.rh ,h. sP4insoI $e lotds,
n*k rhr shr M'rr nrc dortedsuid-
agehdndg.el*|prces
adrd .c'|rilt. ,r.d6 icn like
' dsfiL ii rheanndgc drSor):
Theplcr6 xn fo@Edon g:uscd
"Ga'hcdns
Merhodson Plse4).
idrh
jnb a
t! 1f t! '
'i:
T
*
t',1-
!
I
a-t
t---:-7-
AccoRDroN
PI EATS
d brdr, Ganns proicc ig P 4$
BmF) rrr
mc.h s y formed
HAND-FoI|I{ID
AccoRDroN
PrEArs
form D-, ford. bdN!o,r,.
rmuDr of hhn.
qa{lh.|oLdlthljluo
(b)
NorEs r VARTATToNS
r/ (1r..t
spreidofor. n.o'nir
plc{
nkhr.
or sulL.r D dtp(hs
rai-
nid noni
j|31|ELow{rdaldIthtnav
on pld.d
hbrf n l]ql
'r!n'a x
'h! tuLfr (R.r. h
nloddns PLiterod pagt 126)
ai,lt
cahldled2|lhe|rpwhanback
cBaseszG|Jpsn.hed|aaslay
oplmDr\.lhLo\'fleJFd|
FoR MI 'rPRoaEDURE5
AccoRDIoNPr E,{TTNG
hp eJse ill.qt
h)
Ld'!,
(Fis 6i6i
riqnmqr
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Fm snran.lor rclicLrppliquisdr
.ppliqu6
h d 16l onenn de
urd cdg..!trttungrhroushi!
opminsin rh. m.hrs rlur rRlh
G 'hclPpliqu. $ rheloundadonts
n, eroakdrre cheng$dtu.ldtr
d LorLc'rdr o !don(L $irh x
Figll.BHar.nfufuiEEnem|b
ittLnultinsn rvilsrpohr
HALF-RouNDs
u Forrhefoundadon
dt: Pi&e
%/(l r,nn) Iron rlf n?rro{
*ltchd5ldebyside6tfomd:toi
with *lffnsercofd beseen the
PRocEDURES
nab,lE{
aroundrheedss or by hali
brs rla ift p*ilkl nrdrupr
Ed,oY{laPPi!8, o! sk$v.d. Add
rDd un$fird
Lou'dn. rnli$
ln( d6ign b
:.ul
6 I a n I R P s c do r f i
h,trcu'dilb'lt&tgt
,Nndh,hrIN
a,in
so!
rlf
ftn
'dE
ol Lh(
lr )
r,i[:r!
i,rL&! (]) EsL
nrps.lollDsins
rhl rumbfr&l
{qum(ol:pplir or (b)
ii(h
Fig11.93sinv||aneo!<||sewnu
7. Rcnor rhr rnporry
rcu
nabiue.
GrliDe rhe*s
haLfmuM hhi. ro
dresPlE benED rhcbtsddrd sa,
and,ncffi ,rrL{tuE rheseDd
(Fis rl r9)
sidetodr loundadon
durinssewingan,l discoungs
Hallmunds atu$(.d bd ftrll
Nh.n rh. und.6idc ofthc loundR
rion b+ns to bulsand curl up
roo mudr nuffing shcn $3 nuuhu
imPed6nirchins,irh r asubr
rDishr nnch s.\ins Ioor or dr
CoNNDCIED
RoLLS
r rrfcdi
PRocrDURrs
il tqd
od
dc ora.h rdF
$LhqlliLofLh!rdhli!'{L
{rmlD$ (
stpM!
r|t
rr {)
(+.n) nulLLtrg
oprugr ui di!
$rnt. trrnrq" 'Irrl
b Lr"
iro r!o) rp{' Rous:h{r
osDlsslhrougl'Ikde.dlAl0
Ll
fo i ddadrd nnra(rorr
nncLrrhc.dss rosdL{s'h dr
NorE5 {r VARTATToN5
d
FA 1113.stutrednt Enatbs
la) rcpstibhactassth6prgatddas.
na. @ r@Ibh downtheeentetal
.quidish
nr
!
n ntrtGd,{r(s
P(.Dtrr(d $'nrirs
inrorh. rir
nr.r rr
sunacerck stuttedaa{ sewhs.15)
lthbd[dhDd(jftrnull:
Ilg It 1r)
(rtrprs{!tuduJi
r $frlr' (b)
,nF,g 111+) Tdtr,s 1lr roLL
$\ ,h. trtrnnffdalDsino,h.
$rE iohnr*hn Pkc5 ofhhnc
L!:
6|iha|ehejghl'ch6oarcalElic
nsasuenn||o,|henagneddqlh
: i ( )X
c1
It
gr.s.mddhlLmgkLnlps'
LrrrLE PrLLows
r. $rtha hbn. nfr nririnsroDr.
(Fig.lL 16l Edi4!
!i!h
PRocTDUREs
(6om). dn!! anorlr otrdLn.
D.nr or rdjoill3sqndn!
d.frh r % (r r.m).*krd
&tg.r
bdNs
arjrNr
orhN
fo
$drnght5td*bg.'hdPiD'h.
(ond pic or L'tn. sln'Ch'
!nd, br nrhinc ovd ch ou!
brl$L'lhLrB
il\
-C
,fr'
rhE
i -1i4
li
li ,,'
\lt Z
Amns. ad Fm rh p'[ds hb
d,elrller rE-phnn.dsmn.uon
. Fofa do*d amnsntit oI p
lo\r \rh sdsln sid6 0) ro
.d3$ , Nt Pn isdli cpt.hry
.5 bdon sxins 'og{h& p{.
ronsdr 1r) [4rip ]c cdsG
qdhq \ih 'h) nirh$ iini'
irr. D lbnr or hklud!'n
.a Faat
4 ,. 4r6.t(.qa'a
@..po1a 1f;o>na
:T|
tftft
|
rcar-h|nich;sLthiid or
ni.hDr O) nr,s nufiiDq,idd a
r( nh(h{r by{]Nsdolr
pr'.hu qk u aoFa'l
or {di+'
i,,d
lo\snllftlhmlghopnhgs
p Ld!+!rq\
(1) l,!
p.rl!r!
o(1trc.
orllr lorslds
(frg n 5t)
(l),\rurmLo8'L.ssinsbur
tr-tr
.dgs
EredbfIaDfrEh*uieddev'1]6
0n
LT
T PLLC\']
i o
j rJard r.,
i.,: jid e !:
!=i::i
Brscurrs
PRocEDURES
hlcargthcfo'$ch15.b,r$.
ibr{N
" (2 an) h'gh..nlargr
a ha r" 17 Jmr) squr *o 3 {"
oo!m) \qN! rof i bsqi ,!'
( | :r.n) hLsh.$ln?. r r" O j.m)
b&'orrr"(9on).Mr .ldns
g(lr jdc ot llr l]s. ]
ro Dl or
+ as*nbl
ft Lis.uirsin , o\s
. .tr3Lisdtrlf,e.rur)li4q
rn rrtdd
Pl6r b ad sid.
\ha,
</- I
4f'
Noils
- V,4KATroN5
b. rd,ncd..nd
{urr
An,rkrnareardsP-dier
nans Nnh pa,lcinsfdr a blo.k oI
bt.trts (r ) DEv z crid ol squse
norc bi$uiE Dnv 3norhrtgid of
enla{.d squRasIo} rhcpkard lop
df ,hl brcuiE Mrk tu prcn loc
arouDd
borhpanms (2)wnh,
f$d!,ere nnks. rr. rlt gid tins
Gmnr,ma and prd, F{rin8s onro
$e lebnccut for tht b,* .nd lne
'or (:r) ssq rhc bp b Lltrba* Ph
,ni!h all p,nncr *aslins and
rlat nrkmss D on. dn{'ion
pld loradon RcPsl in rheoo$
dirt.non (Fig.11 tq) (a) as@hle
rh hiscuirLhFusha dn c( inro
al&ugh rhcfrdnionarbiscuir
h6 a squne ronndarion.{ plrlL
o! eael)sidenso 3n:bl.sbGcuib
ro Gc lbh non,squacb6e
(FiE lL 60) Enliqlhe b6e pnb on. barrrhed6ir.d d$efion
lnn.adolip].onderrsid..
only & .vo oppcirc sids lur
pled5.,nd rlo$ pla6 arc alM)s
ndncls
rd a sEas. pitdn.
PEAKSAND
VALLEYS
ainnlemss.hrq!a6edby6e
PnocEDLiRE5
lamlfu4l$i&onredhg
s q u r k s ( F i g . 1 1 6 Ls )d L l r
asqnm
i l l h . d . n g d D E I i1
nohcr'ddLea.f\lloruntr
n.r pildL\ r rhLDrdl.don.
ttrjGr rht ren nd. or lne Psr,
Pohl Ar rht lrDal.ore( dr
Fie. 1161 @ sew tu site at he p$k ta anee& at the tuse /b) Matchand
ew the rei srtu,andtc) thenen teavirsthe
ir.
Lh! qNdr((a) nr.ia5 rr 6j
l [ r b N i F L gl l 6 7 ) i o . d ' !
plh!trl|nqorfinull
rh,lth6.
libi !n frg
\tr. nrfrrn
,\n0u!Pa|\Lll{(lDNlUj
,"Lti:':
Structured
Surfaces
72 UsingDarts
DART BASICS
SEau&NcDARr5rIMs
'rr! Lhr{dbsguidsr
rnsiDn
G) Brgu{trlhn8vih1ludr.
,haa,rsk gdhr i,r tronr
rhLh5LrouLdLr.dDstr
lrrl(
r,DL{i!h 'ht Lh'{d nn \rar
nrlrkfto
SINGLE-PoTNTED
DART
mouthor$eVwhth s alw:y3
*
poii or theV wh*e ihe 6brt ele
PRocEDURES
r b. dtrrns nil*.d, dnfr l
nraichr,
,l d,f0,!irrr|a{d
(rr3 r2.)
nor ns i/'(!
snE) 5hon
of 'h oprGtrc !ds! G) spard
ri'',u'sahtnaspuaFfuntor
(t)
'rrridr ondidr
d. d'djd
r.drmn6
oJ
the
l}.i,t
Hg'12ns/h.and.predpel|en
trtur9wipt*6
ta)Paw.d
fudelda|Mdepb'wlh|hedafu
dabl m a papq patch lb) P'dffi
"nhEc6bu6o||Edfudadg6
i\
',,.,,
,(
//
aha,Deh,9ed5h;
\":).'
noFbn\
ri i,kc r fom
spx.dd:nr:(l)tk!Ll(!l
drrrrrld LJd?ri,tiL/ri
qrrh.rirF.
o r r r r d r b ( F , sr : 6 ) r h . s .
n.'rrQi+r.sidcdPdr,, hb
ry\L
hcl)td{r
'rt dc
lul
.ddi.{hi!hlPfus
dinofbnnt.d
\ludBtufa,hldns
{! add.J
rr.d
d lr
fri..
od
d..o]1. I
nrlltbr5r.
on rhe PrEn
an adiun
It
+_
Fis 12na sutuce tu6: (a)Fded b are side tb)AdtGtedar he @t@ tal
nabhhs eds6 at thebse te) cnteEd avetthedad setu td) caerhaped
pni4hns dsdhnned at lt basa
! N.LL fO \TEf
t,;i
@ '\i!
@c lrft irt d! iic rj. oi qerari
or
ii!i.
4!Gq J!lporre::!horen3trri,/jd.af,! n,,'|Tl
n. r
tl rF1fldr
lif,r ir!
);||'!;|n
19 ri,Pr! i.q
q.a a'tjl1,|
lrl
i \ril
li ri-
'_ ,!r!r r!
in.i fifir.ir.\
ii3
I rr'-ir!tf!!
Itf
!i!.r!,.
rirqti:i,!r-iicr
r,
f,.ti.?
DouBl E-PoINTED
DART
L)
$n!hl]]llhLo|$*l!Nncd
(rLg lr L|.drqtrtr,gp!:nbn1
!k.?l.rrsd,naourrr( [n
+
< >
<
: +
< >
+ +
> +
+
8:84 ZA\
o:o:oVZA\V
++ A\v7x
VZA\V
A\ l^\ l^\
++
\VZ
Afiri nnchins
!r,
kirn
!ri ji I , r , i,.1,i , {l
rini rcFo., re +,iii,?!r.
rt I
it
! Gi
d.,rrNrir{ ii! ne,!l Di,l! i I i .d, ,jdi r:!,,f
i..,
lii.ri.,ff
r,k',f
ai,lj.Nrir,h{/,q,
?4
D O L ] E L EP O N T E D D A R T
rlrjir::aoiTLili:!''{T(roiNxl!i,.]'rdll
d,n
Ai ir-..:.-
DOUBLE.POINTEO
+ ifiiil
oliJiui !@:r!( , !r4
j
r? liqlr
drr
{ !i b.rr 3iu:!
t'
t Vrt
:tt l H
finH.tlJ.ri
1.
+
+
+
+
l
*
-t
*.
*.
'#
Manipulations
73 Combinrrtions
TEcHNreuE
VARTATToNS
ffi,,,W
rEiNJlo6
./ r4de.tshrd
r 5
. {n
lei,h.r,:-
hri h-.,,.r
J rr.
isd
CREATIVECOMBINAIIONS
i
.di
:i
.r !11,r
r ?ir!r
o,-nli ,l,irderrrr
i&5:!.1'l(J!.r,rl:lLIl!2flierl(r4'riigl]
5i!-.@rr.uiiri(r
Mr
il
, .:f
.D
n '. i:i,'i.
.i:clr-.,i-i.i
iiirsr.ir
jl ]i]ifi
r -1
rr
l ] i . . . .i . I
' ,.1. i
:aa.}8,
.'RJ'
\$.
7
j:l
l;tit
-znS
)r*"'
-1 .
i'+r.'l
'^.
illrl
plli
t1
tf iI
'1"
'*-t-
, --j,' '.r'
i" ,==
Appendix
HAND STITCHES
BAcKsrrrcH
becinningrcPhcingaLiotitheeid
BASflNG
rlgme.eightstyeod$e5ijfrh
b eri tss$
dr dn*oE f eri.
handed).For
venbnting. make
OvrRaAsr
SirrcH
LADDTR
sttrcH
BrIN:DirrrcH
n]tchntrcdicdlom'3htbeft
(re86e a dredotrir t.hmded).
righrrc err(rsss:rrdr4bN
ir
reit.hmded).Br is se ned e !P
r,,(rrm)
on3hsidethe
CArcHsrircH
(",,'.)-1
Fis A.4.Laddet*hh la) ct6ns
OVERHAND
SrrrcH
TAIoR TAc(s
S PSTITCE
bedamagedb/othgmarkigab
(6mm),Prk !P M
chdcdge@thel:bftsdeh*ih.
or thrce 6@d,
(lcm)and
ihe dreadsbftei
SrABsrrrcE
Rui\iMN6 STrrcH
TAcKNc
wdkins rrcm idi b eft (trEe
r d reldos r hft haided). dd ihe
wte.sdthhngdddd]esPae
WH|PSmcHlNG
Gn.trN
GLOsSARY
e 5 ( 5 ) A n e m e b cm d w c c
APPIraur,
(r)sma 4shaPede6r
6b' . (2)ro rdd
of fab
a 5mdrotod ot
ddeie6riibrrGs
Percik
madeby BercDw a shsPerofo
qsss
BrAJ
(7)r{han c P$!
with
IlrM ArLo$AN1a
0rt&m
e d4 Nq{ 6e q ,E
(o4EheideosrhgEhoi6e
BODKJN
qe q a tuer'
IRoN
FAcJNc
CRosscMlN
FI\'6m Pluss
IINJNc
E.458
FLUTE
EDct:srfic
f; (r.smm)froF a ro dd edgeo.
sem|hewiththelabl.ishride4
FArRrc-SAEMAru<rar
nsier^rrr,5 r! hP p&m,nen,
ren4o6/i./ ot' atnorc oi ,re
hcndd fdbrr beto 4bs rifker
hdude:(r) Pii4d dht/rsEd
fordr (2) s! $o, nips md rcrh* in
(r) B*.n8 md 6i
*an a6hi.s
ror 6.ks. t4J Bhckb@i chak da k
fa'twthrisksidesrog{he|
NEEDLEMoDELUNG
FoL DATIoN
NPs
SrAYsflTcHrNG
SIABILEE
-(r)ro aarc eadeGd*itd n3
,lls:ie.sd/nit
h is pEna the
edselrcmjrerhrigaid'whenrhe
NorcEEs
(^) mrkh$
shghtsdthhgbymachhe
PrN MATCH
STAa[zER
STEAMBrocK, SiEAM
-rftr
al rbsre,
or dde usd
to addimEs b hbdc ( r) ftmf-
PRrss
PREis
abft r tEhed. (r) rhPohrt
QurLr-As-You-Go
whkh
eDlccE i6 smrllersegmenB
bondedbtheba.kofthefound&
latiom,adju*
rherord:md ur a
Drrc[
SnrcH-lN-THE
''hpquikisl apa*ment
quikhsi'
ftgeredb/6efo|dofadGed
RucHE,RucHrN6
STAY
-{ )IoPftftanaf
P! adon
STRnTGIiFGMTN
SEAMALrowANcE
sPc beseq
STR4IGHIoF rHE
SuForK Pu-.as
G e, a sr p or 6bnc,Ep., of r bbon
SEllTDGEs
LensdF; edsPsdw@i
hlhisboo|.s!tro|kPutrsT!eed
TEMPLATE
SELEcTED
BIBLIoGRAPY
BooKs
!mUBbidgldqub|$doiol
ToPsnrcH
btdFq:emontheightside
or ih.6bf . rhdd 1r arc, u ne
UNDERST[cH
-ro *ddr
3drthb, h&hhe
fa(erabrt.rld,(r.shm)frcmlhe
ingrrcmrcningtothefrciirrrhe
YtrkNtrh.!iqPt${AsUdD
frcj(r
DFi{D
4 1 Dairb
Nlv rn!k, NY
D."s{ }i!
oli5"td
xr hnn.
\t'ADDrNc
.o,Phr ts@rotvefu. !,i1r4 hd
l}rndoJn!4
rh. F.dnds
ofrn.
Ndko4
rtrlroPrk
$rb*
eidsre ohi
N(rrso {
PublsdoN'hqoncimn'FbrLhd
bIAwco9o].|!iddl33]
cryq Gn.i.. {d Ho+$ Jnn.
."prk
!'41 ul N.rdk.ril, N6! Yqk
NY6edHoq{ksPinsb*519fl'
Dd/ .n[
addsJo r{ rorD4k,
NE:$]lNb|Eed]ryiln[ol10'+
Hdr. cirerF vGblsh 54 &!rrn,N
r,.s4h!rhM.ul'
Hub! Jsh,r
cud4bm,
6yChdFcsd'Erfi'l96,ind
t'
on encyclopedoo1te.h.Lqleslnd roslno.e,resh.p'_
r6struc1lreond recodru.fiobric.
v Moe rh.n 354dogcms slpp
!,soizd l.1ob,.od llenec coteg.ret thonspeci:
t.|koi/.|heihe|JLdr4o||h.c$fune
s B N0 - 6 0 r , 3 - a q ! t :
publications
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