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Contents

clupr.r r0 QuLrrN.

rot

FORCNORD
PREhcr

. . ........... .. .. .rri

CEm\6 rHr Mosr uoM


T H r sB o o ( . . . . .

c h a p r c rl

Chaprerrr-Sr!ft1Nc ..22e
lfi

G^l[RrNc...3

ckpr.r 7 S oc(Nc.. rrt


. opposile Eds. cRrhfti'g
Chaprer2-SETRRTNG ..r9

urNc DARrs. .. .. ..267


slPPrE\rENr RYFuLNrss
MiKr_G R!.tsl|l
. cdh&ld shsh Edged]lu t.
. ciLh(d DoubleEdscdRulll.

M'xEp M^--'rur ^IDN5


-coMBrr.'AnoNs

M^(Nc FLorN.Es

67

APP!NDIX
chiprrg-{orDrNc

-MrKNc

GoDcrs. .. .. .. 31

.. ..la7

. Hard,s$! Cord.dQundrg
. udrines.{n codtd auirdng
I N D . X .... . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . r 0 4

Controlled
Crushing

A R T $ f * . ir

f Gathenng
GATHERTNG

c i r r ' d n g M e r h o d s . . . . .....l.

luomdiccnh.nng .. ..

BAsrcs
G.1TI'EIINGMrlrioDs

sRb'lL'4 cdhEedsdrctng..6
rhrousLchannelsH,trd, milure,
itrlomad!. rnd onc kind oI ct s!.
gilne'ng ar nanda.d.stfth.d
F r t L n g . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

*ine irc sPelhxy qriarions d'ar

Run.d Eds.

Thud bscd h,ndrnd nachine


edhedDsinvorvs rwopioaduits:
(1) rd'lhins erc$ rh. dsigmrd
cdg.dr rhcfihn. thinrlr.sm
allo$lDei(2)

garhd'ng
8alhdins..

puljng d! lnE loo*

'hEd dDslnu un*und fidh rh.


.M or LhcnikhiDg winr ont hand
$r,ilc unn8 ,heo,ns hrnd ro push
therabn.nb,bdf,long rhhdly
hdd rlread Th. spesny oi d.nsnt
of ,r. eDi.rords c&d by r
gdnubg. h.ombharioDqi$

... . .... ll

{hih G 'hc nnoum and d$in or


li.Iold! libcckd tron rhr nirdrs.
LmB nrd$ '13h'\ salnqd

snhdns.. ..

nad 8orJ,-ii8 dQ.nds on nn,


n'ig sdtrhs B<rEr svirg dud
n vuhdrblcrobicakundqh
sion,u* doubl.dor exh-shrs
rhrad i! th rcdt. ltrchdr ln(
nd snrh rlh a sood-siz.dtTor Rr
Note, rhis chapd b.gins \dh

Msrcs. indn.r.d byr 8ny band


Lo$rd uDd@ad

dr i.t.vant

Mqd gath.nry. dr"* Gt fabh. up


dnb dc 'hrcadofr si,,shbw ol
$m runningnnch6 (Fis. l l)

tr
\i
lr!]r].dlgil]rtriri].]tr{.,f

, ,! r! ,![

L]fhrru! ,ru! rr! qhnL

itT'.

arowances: ta) Nd.b ,D s#r


atawanees n ad2rce tb) htq

ih.rarLh!

f ) r rh o d

uri{&

rfr

pl

birnrrrr

(34'n

L r n t r $ r u s r ' r t L ) ll u r r t r !

LN.trIn !\rs)

i'rl

nx &!

ru nu (FLr r 3) ,!sd

|n rrbn.

lLr o{dtr rt Tr,! rurLcs ! {trl1

,1,.,;. F

0 r I 0 ! ! $ B

ebsbseqna|Ly3e]ned!.dch

Sr4Bruzr\6 (;4r Hrfifi)

L!lg!DlLl'!|,i,I]l![Ll(!lu

nrs, tn rhr bhirtrs I Lrl j. ui!

wh l2) eds$rbhhe

aDd tb) bhd.

Ftsln2eah'lirgskbl,edb'3
bbnc extenstn anada b) wth aD
!"
r/ouadihtr

n6

mlhurr ba[r
rr 0,i ioir

luqDtr.t

!r

iJDnr trr,aJ.J!bL n ft!o !I

ori n{ir

lsrr rtdfLg

L l+j

,fr3 I rr)

iiqr5btsh/@d

() Mr T thedn.h lrchrnq rtdder

r.iddrr

r\lrtrN(

uLtr' 1r) {\

la) sthd3tibh an ,cdseqalreted dr


nachh,F trching tb)FrtE ar edse
rn.Is

u ijj !{ilD.

(L]

dl:)

T[. rurLd.ng. is r deordr,


ldgr
hlt finishto.rhesarhftd

Flutin8is a hand.a0pliqu.r!ch.

$hc!

r{ {n.hh8

Lob. g h*d

groovg heNen naDdiru fol,ls.


labnr! edge rhe!.ip or tubr!

Lh. rrbft on 'n. $nid dl .quily


k.d runninsnirdrs lthe lar8{

bre*s 'nLda ntu rftd sdlo bg


TonRlnLi:r( L) \!rh rlreldBc or ri
.xrnsion dipnd berqrh 'he CIh

'nur.) D6ribuL.'h. ga'hds

rh dgr dr.h *vd,l rlrsds ol


dr lrbn. Ln$. n&dlc lidbrc tub
bhs n threushrh. ourlheon rhe
rduodn'dnDing(hrn{dl.$in
ueGee(b)in Fis r-ra) Rlmove
'he g{hd4 'hdd whd .ll 'h.
Aninnsiblciar nan nndclin
i,3 rhl .onroG8rdEi,8 Lefor ir
'hr ri'bln r sh md srhll}l i p*ML
*r) readi.s r]t sarlFcd cdgc

.ins sn.hs. rh$ .o!$ them

appliqr or bpillh

ndt h tht

ea'hdiu tln.d rLtcLlopnrdri,*


(r) s! a rar ofhpe b Lhcbkk.r
'lE srhenrs 5drch6 lhdndng rh.

Fs t15 la) hgel4t2ed 3''y tat a


eatturedswa lb) ||hichh sbyed
A! iNrtbletadrF r r rhhe

srth.Alordcldmlkdl.d[|mnl
G) ss r dtco'nne nry oIlibbon.
hp, or hGid or bP oI rhc s {hsnnchB h ftri' (F1g I 17).
lReI{ b Ed$ finEh,ie lor

srhere,l ed!e.s$n ro rhesdhred


i+L si'rs bgt 'q i rarhs, whdr

sion A lull &lg. ro .ds. nry nika


dreqhil! fqinsbro z curour
rndr I rourddioni4 1Fjs.r.rt)
w[or ft ta]c oLlibnc addcdbr,
Penanedn,y is uodEnrbh.u$ ,
ru'ros

h.idr A fa.hg fdr riul.{dse


ryFsn.cdsc ,nd all-sids snhq.
hs nftd rull dg.ro{dst ltiigs

'hich canberomNay

Fs 1.t6 l4 P*athcins skhitiv

i@ a saMd edse (b)Gathercd


edqea|a|abfu.]dedkd|aa
laaetszd bchs betatelc) tuhirs
tbht tide autrftush a stashin tha

rh an d rrhdnh;

hfk

FEl17sladl2ing3fufudedqe:
(a) wth tu .xtensiarstippeduhder
n*|h|hssarnsfuhedga|heinq
srbh$. (b)wk a b@ han'tsewnb
|hebackal|hega|heirqstbh6
(c) wrh a bpe edc*uched aEt the

hrir rorr! snbocd.rndau. r\&r

'I

F9 t 1e ta) Ftnwhe a p'ry oath.


e|ed2p]j]quiwrhfub|.rads

]!L](uld.iPclnudm]1.|

SNGLE-EDGE

"aa'nenrs Me'nods"o! pagel).

GATHFRlNG
t. subiln. fte 3ltllednB (rcrei!o
.smbnrfe 6athd.d sfi .hn's

Norls & YARrArroNs


PRocrDrrxEs
r. Drttdc how muth fuuns llr
&bdc brlo$ fte sarhsededse
shNrd disPray.-lisht. nodq.
nnr Ior tnc Ea'neEdedgero
6rihdc fteleigrhor ung{h
rh. dsird rullDcsin the srheFd rabn., huhlply fi. hE r
f*urchrnl bl rhcxnounr
indr cd in d. Iolloving cha :

rlc 5En&!d fE siDsle.edge


galhen4 is "cu( nlch. and g h.r
o! 'ne {cigh'gdn
of worn f.cb
n.i skbildc hodonaly end

nnish(' Al'. \rirchins on die


.ft$gfh

G piddnd

ovd fl.l

ins on Ac lcncd'gnf bru$ ln.


Iolls rcl6.d rrcm crcss8Ei! sarh.
Fiog}2agnqedh-n)''r1ai

fol& Ibn lcnerhsnbg,ti.rbg.'

lb) s@r, sa'n 6d.ds.dtDed


at an4et . lc) statahl;@th*d
edsesbhirat b tuNe (d)stdi6'h,

Drup.Asinq,-.d* Eathrnnz
.xrendsb rs adFced.dg6 of ,
lqdmd pr.. orrib.. Aslie!trIr,
tt. n16.d lolds dnp. tlMid dr
cmd. and 'l]. no.dns d8e.sith-

dredih6s

- 0ai@!r i1+no'o

As ft. difierencebdweendre
lcnstf,dl r fibfu gd&rl to
n*ch ftar kr8d incft66. thr

l.Dsrhfor rh. ursdrrcd Lbric,


.nd cur$e hhnc.rr nec.$ary
pi.rt rh.fibi. ro r.hrde thr
Divi le rhealse 6 h8*hqed
and m,ik lh. divr0B bctwen

rig,4'sine]dga7ah.rngBd.
ahB (a)Fatu re@se tun adta-

nn,ghl[,4inc tol&, d.scrndsto


. poi G4 (a) in Fi8 I l0).
anglcdghrr or frdd lhin rhc ods
in,l rngleaheBrh. .urc of $c
,lEprns and$c lm$h ol dc poinr.
Fat @tbw.a singL4d9 Edtn
enig, rhegrneFd edgrkea r6m
lh. staighr and ho*onel whnr
rchinin3 , noadq alse rh* t)pl6
dc. my bc *bilL.d b diht trp
or dom, rnd, b.csN. of i6 ficfr
bilitytocuNeo!anglew]lena
sarighr. g,rh.nd .dg. k shhtlLed
al.6ed lron rh. .ontourd nebiIttig d*p.n and $vell, anl the silhoudte or tht notung .dge fthrs

G.c (b) h FB l-20).s'EEh'mins


'h. nd'ins drgeby 6Eiqs

srbili:ins a nBishr. sain<cd


edseb dip in a .uNe nrcth6
{old5@' orthe tro n3rdgc, norc
so a lhc d.pd ol |hc curc inse6.
$, unl$ O) rhehbri. isl.ng|hy
lu.ishr dd*n (sn |h. cdhcdn8,
or (2) the sitl.ning silhoudte oI
Ihnm'tn3dge15@dd{Edb
.deln& G< G) tn Ftg l 20).
lBrsd or rh. salneftd44r hser
meanne , !s rh. slhouck oI
rhe flo hg edgeas rhe Eia
1.nsd of ungdhmd frbric n.cdcd
to rrsduce nE dsird fuun*s in
aflottlgldgha$tngf@Eoi'

wh.n ,n ipplicdion fttiuns s


{nighr. on-gnin,nortinscd8c
virh rhcd*iEd fullis b,ngtnS
tdmourtd gdhenng tds. dc trbn. needsto be cut fmn a pruern
O) M*e a Iull-siE pnrn. n'n'
shpr rh. sdh.rt,l fabric is ro
nrch (2) sbsh a @P) or inat pi.
un tnb rdPs, .udn8 in d. dn.t
rion thr fordssin hmg (l) Trp.

rhc {op5 b rndhs nic( oL pip.i


rDi.id rpiiL b ni.kh our rhe rr
rn '
:dd rrr dsn d lrlllEs:fkrFrhedos ro tu hlgd .dgc.
,+) conn.ditrg dc s.oaErd nnlI
q hrch beom6 rrr pa(sn tor dc
hbn. Lo bc g{htrtd v idionl

'n| rol& rdBrd froin ih sithcred


.dg. (F g. I 1l).Aildr$aE
rlloMn.c b r fin,1pa,rh
FonPPlicanons so r.,. ,rrat
rn

ts inp

tutir, i.d!c

$lc sqle Io! prEn

rhe hller

drathg pur

not o! llt $rcd doND sa&qDsFnmmdapply'hd.md'

sr4r.dr4r?.z/ge 8drrrlg
do6tr har a nortnecdgr rhe
drmrnndnrrfoldsftLr6.d rbn &c
srhsr,g {n.hs dinbnl and drs
rrparn tuoppdst..dgc{hich
5nrcrhed smoo and$cd ni
ro oainutu a naqrhishl, sb]d
'h. sids b.gin ro ddg the ner.d
.dsc ou oI :ltnncnr. rdo ouch
c{h&,!8dn roc r !ry.d.dgr

Fs 1e2 la)cathinertud byhe

appNfuedgehEhEs|ayed|lal
and stai4hL (b) ruba stibhad inb a
Figl2lslasEad.eead@b|r
dQ||ingh|MtadgawdMa
dnt@red adoa:la) ared
d tu
(a) s6hed hta tu.hh tti6
patln

(c) a'*tirc @titu

ered.@ rubetuyedoE;, isit

Nhnh
tEtd b

naledjr a .urv. lh{ociErcs,lik.


.u'otrl'na rouiddion.thr oppsft
.ds. rjghdygrhrftd.do*s rtr
RJkr rromr.ndsl poim-prc.
lidd rhr vd,h of In d). cquL
,bEEdiusot rhcdrtul,. curour.
Lr$ 'n,i 'hc ndiutssn opuirs
sunonndtdhy satneF:Mon l}rn
'h! ndiE-rh. gdhriig dos bui

FDlln6 muldplirsfrlhs(h
rddrron 10a buirdupot ri.ft/
dtr.{r'sel gd1rrdtr8bmus rtr
ungdhered.d3. ol oneds n,biria thc sathqcd .d8c of d. idr
'ic. rh. g{h.Ed .+e of hbh.
nrip *l is scm ro rheuDsrhned
cdg. or nnP *r; sdhdcd ricr $ is
*wn rd ftc ung{hercd
eds.otfti
!l ?ndso on Ekh rifl inc(6s
rhclensd of ft salhdcd cdsefor
lLc n.x' irt (FE.l 2r).lr lhr
lishhs or LhcgrhFins is also
irqea3l lor suftinvc ri.F. luu
Dca eir iro*s crfus$nrl}

Frs t23 FM tbhty sat\sed


st@'hg at thebp, utness tft@4
ghdudlybddQnabaly\hfi@lh.

qG jop rn ( nnn)ronr[.

e'rq: la) one har at htqel Faren A


lb) .|ashed br hised at the @o
sEedqebrredadar|dded
e'par$d edse re dtawn (c)Paten
.edqa|hd.wh$qJreEd,vlmbh

I
i
i

Opposrrp-Enct
GATHERING
madesna trwhen (6hed omo

'abrcbeiwei6eg.derededs*

PRocEDURES
ro g c 'lr oppdrirt ed8s oI a
hns'h ot faLnicadip, $e Ploedtrftsd.slnbdIol.shglt.Jg.

NorEs r VARTATToN5
dpposi.edsen:biltin8 ro archor
borr, grln{Ed cdss ntd Mlruh
'lrc,duscdloLdi h ! dn(nonal
lords lan oovc nraigtl 5d*!cn rhc
pur. 0dhr. or skN: rhe ronnz
rion dfrhe {u I rd tokLrrh{ ar
l$ddld bd!.en rhesdhd.d
Ldls * rht pinrl-. desisr foc$ dl
whd' dPP6ik snh.red elgs
dlnpd folds in b.N{n !&q
.lnP. or Purr Ftr d,7p.J opPdi..
.ds. gartrri{ rh( ErE$d lotds
tnoush rd door or drL dri \sishr
N m $r s.rhrEd ds* ii. !ih.
licd dGfl bgtlh& (Ft r-2r.
Fq Pufed owstu 4e e!a9ng.
lrt lol tohard ber\tm rk gxln.
trcd edss nB, bl Eridldy shon as
,tuy G enrcn d'. garhcadrds*
of I rwo$ nnP of hbn. hn*d or
dnPing. rh. rords,bsr wvrld
brEkins up rnb $irriry rktgB 'd
psk (Ft r 16).rhrdoPd or
purld .Jrd so\* Nort p@reun..d
a5rhenry btunes $rallc !nhk.

&!FnTpos {u.suLherins.
p''Ilrdopr$iL.eds.garh|rnson b.

Fgl,6snipo|kh.g2beQdan
c'p6lb6d9es'slabizedlaa3E\

Ii6 dr Idkls hk ! dnsorat retx


rbEhif $nh ,h. e46 Afr. nir)
ri:lng,hcLft.dg.b\ br{ids 'h.
gadrufs n(ches ro : nar pdl lhe
rrshredg. down$2rdfo(rtu11f
beIoEbAring 'hL sdhred alg. ro
oi.h r|r dgr r, r suid.line
'fulNldon lh nq (83 r.,7)

Fig127,opp@ib.ad@galhe,ia

ctr1t.? aPp6k ds. udt]jd6s


Drsdtrenngasgm{lrononsid.
or 'he fihnc nLip rish'ly th. hns
.trrvd.Lft f$Dr d'rtdlvdppo.
sirrishrly(G{ ourid. cuN), aM
sbhrlhg $. ds$ eodinstf

Flg'13o|]sing|he3lashand.
edg..ga|h6|irpafuhatnbe
ga|heredMonaneedge|h4|he
ohe|andsla|d|aadanob'
Ev.n.ulat owBtut tdE gdlh?r
ii3, c cn& of a fabricrnp *e
i.sid. cdg. nccdsvay rghr garh,
4hson raryenitchs (th.l,qe
tht nn.ha, 'he sEallrthc (nt,1
op.nins)Th. oppolne.dgt-rh.
outide of rhe ctclFis l,gh y
$ sed rhe sathccdnrip.rtr b.
m,nipulft.drnd a n4, qheel-lik.
6 ddemircd b),rllc,ndmrol
s:rhsine on th. oubide edse.
srh hrv dep fords,.ollkEd
1rcurd a cminr axis, lhd dimh
Lh a lrn ndDre1owaid
rhe
outr edsc(rjs 1 29).ro sathq
'hr ouErcdsc,$c srip nur b.
ronsd rhrn rhecircunfercnrt or
.dg. vir cwruilly br shbilued
rn.. Gr.lnleErce = dh,ndq x
I r4) as$c hrgd n.aslrem.nr
*hn srimarjDgrh. r.4'h leedd
b g{hcr rhe ourt! cdg. a$ip a!
aid. * r hdtrs or $e immdsi
dEuL,rourrintwir g,,hs rLr
'hzn'h. idi$ oI 'he inEndedcir
QbrourLinr. qho SdhdEd o!
oppGft edss. vill d.vatr tn rh

whcn none ol rh6r fit rh. str i,


noD,dnft sla+{!d{pBd pdtrhs
tor rh. oppGidrdg. g4rrerins.
Iinnions ol. hlsd sh,pecoveEd
wtrh rold5 thar -os Ircn I ds{ly
gdmd edg. b , ushrly g*htfttl
edse (Fig. I 30), oi , hrsd sb4r
lL u unu$a| ouinc covclcd
viln loldi thar .s$ rrcm edgero

.d8e(ris I rr), nr.d Pnms


sl'sh a copyot Ge elcd shlpc
$B'stu a.b$ Ircn edgero cdgein
rh. diftcrion or ,hefordsr'PErd
'nePieslpandl{DlndpteoI
p{pci to .nrr3e rheedgs tor $rh
ns outtinc rharfib h d. 3prt6
Add n,r alloMncs afti dnfting

Ard 5ubiliing rh. grinmd


.dc6 tn a nnishal mznn.i rmns.
*rcthms rnd phtug rn. .dg6 b
, paddedbdrd iI n*ded srsn
wnh ,n ion herdabov. th gnhcins allowb .odlandd4 brfoc

= ilrt
'l

fi**

,.:."---"-.

\,-:

s.\1";;7
/:.

]%._:

: il:

r:..-,d..-*1

1,r'.;$$
i

ALL-SIDES
GATHERINc

2, Gahg a|l Jou'\il th. cdg!or fab.


nc lur lDm rhsarknngF\({!,
mdlq fte gathendlctrgrlr
ber!(n turh6 or iid6 Lothe
Itn$h betr\en ftLRrdiokha q
suy lur or oudhedfrerndrerF
smlr (ndd ro crdNins

PRocEDr,rRrs
r. sd.d ,irgq shaP6$ih sinph.
N.ompl,otrd orri!6 ro dmti
o all-sidc sadu.J p rn nn

3. shbiltt thc 8a'hocd edgs ,nd


5haP..
choonng
a Nrhdd rhd
srns ft i equn.nd6 or Lhr
iPpliqdonGcfero.subnliv
Gnh.nd nn.hhs on Page
6)

Fn byxn {Lualanou{ nl

NorEs & VARrafioNs

bhadrtrl*ot rumb cdixr l


h.rgh, for Lhcirnftd rulncs
rnd.nlirgr by 'n rFourr G{
Fis r r2). Dividtrh. .(rved

rhc nrndrid fdrall sid6 sdh


dLngis , {une 8arrr.rtd 10I
snxll.rsquaE,anolrlsdhd.d rd
r smrll.rohl. a ci(1. grheredto

ino lrrllcs ,nJ ']uan6. mark

rh*.or, Nirh,ncds6 ndtr:cJ

Diudelons *Dishr cds.srh

rrrsiliq ol dr tabrn 'hd billo$


trp benEnrrr .&cs a prn df rhr
appsldfan sids srheri|s An
:ll sids silh.ed aPILi on rcds

Prkm virh .onp.hbl' sraccd

Frtuwhs E o unEul rljhd


roilsid6 sdhcing,uiriins nec
dh and 'ln*d ro .orrrp* rhEpulq
ummd) foldsdLibcurl!Fu.
Dwi,u .dnv&s rhebaloorins hb
ic besftn rh. {,b ned cdss
inb i mac.riL.rc1il dlridEs and
(rds ro.Furto$rry on lx8c9)

b|a|lfubpanddawfuldesb
ebp ftu nusltered

jnctid.s

l,rfi hsd a subltl or hxnil.


sids slhfhs Lo,n

drct.s

hui.h.d srhrE on lourdinonfalr


oul rhebundled
hbn. rbor. ,h.
$'heE b Dak, purlrrd lools
soDrdn4 hk. r qud,r rodnoot
(Fi8 r ], Aru rrnrhssrLgh,l)
l$s 'haron.hnlir ongin.lc'rtu

W)

9e
Thcrun.d rtrrrdds lhePuf
corcpr a *ep turrn c.nr hc
pufi !n(re insid. r hl8q .tutc of
rabr!.nn.h oi rbeourtiiEotrht
p{fl dnk and8i,her findins rh3
grhe6Ld\r*n,hEromcard rt(
Pur roI louMn,n (Fi: r,r4)

I
sh s heringd6dib6 .h
rvc6. sd oI pufl sdh{in8 shtn
n beohA lie nglt side Dinple
by nli6s
lik poin6suroundcd
rh.
pufis
Tne
ft.
Ioldsreplace
back
ol
rh.
on
the
cinultr ontlbs
rabtu an'l pmeed 6 dcdb.d ro!
pnfg{hnns roi Pi.ned nir
grftedn3" $. dnplG exPud hro

Ma$d rund pulE citnd dt


covcng. ol liillr run6 aM nGrrcd
putrsro n r@ denne'lby the
Nnber or rumcdpufls rbchcd 'd
rherolndation The kiclraud
30.lG.ly $a. djadr rdn.'l
e'ls6 rc roRd npwid rh DI'
ned Plfi on r hE snug8k tnc
pufi iBid. r lulk am. ni*d
nom e cushiondlgrlh6. outliG
.vo corc.ntrn cncb sPa.ed,botrt
,a" (l.rd),Fn, od.d insidtI
l,rgq circleof hbn.. M& wo
rhradld ru.dl.s, srith on rhedu!
ItG. calhd bolh Iw5 bgh l shile
pNhiu lhe pufi drL in &. cnrF
up. ald dregdhs.d labricber$en
|h. bs downro rom i b,* und{
$c puftrnd rum. swlnc bascroa
lound:do! (ris. 1-15) (Rels to
'EdgertnGhbg for Rum6" @
w'h prfso.Lrnng, rh. pufis
rnd lhe folds.onncdng lllc puffs
c@Ehd r])chbnc inro a par
En.d rtllcl PuffsrhFing sbns
sirh a sEncil of cr ou cid6
amDgEdon i Bnd (Fig. I r5).

usi4 fte scnril, kft ih PdEh


onb rhengh sideoI rh. Iahnc.
sdrh and salns rich druler ou!
line tishlly Pushth. pufis w md
sFEd odr rhebmched pur labnr
{th th poinr o{ the IEde Gsrh*
rheedsB of dr r,bric b Mth 6
nssu(nenB of &e puFgarhnd
ink.or ol ftc tabc A liebl*dshr
linins hcked ro rhg'thabg
bchild the purs $mdi6 rhe rabn.
o!.hll ind prcv.nb p l.sith.ing
thi.rds non bF.kin8 undd sllas

Q-"r .-o

einc rencils harEciilrs * 1161


Nice 6 la4. tn dhdc 6 e hr
gd opoings rrd g*h.rlng cur
our on rhccinlrr oulljra tr*ed
on $. noft ot rh. ribic. wnh r
senry sE ,llovrnce cliPp.dand
Nrnedundd vbil. si!9, gnthq
pnll.d dsht {odnd x rmovabL.
seuselire , Pcncilor dorel Us
nrcls ftrcsd andscue I sdl
ertd sdicbinssell to dtd rutuE
FE Fur gdh.ring and i6 vira
rio6. rh. $nncdbs roLcrnk6.d
by th. s*hainsh<omt longd 6
inq66.

ind depd s rhE.rcks

J#as
;-:tQ\i*_
pt-o.
i

-:ri

r a n a ^ c a y o y a\ t ) s h . r t b ) 6 a h e t t e h | ,
-?.dsich4ld)fwoycyTsb
a rcwat ya ws Mbh
.. be jored la anah,4 ow at ya 16 and il an

, {,,9!'i'3

ho Li(hrL'nrd

: ::

l -

. !./-,
3

'=,?a

)hei.

.i 11

rY.i
.'fLn

) Shirring
SHRRING
whengatheredoimu|rip|elwsol
* &hingsM *nisht eds rhe
d*Emsd ,a h PqErhrow5

,Iel nrrclinglin6 sp1adouL


ovd rh. shidng srcR Markthe
.hins lnrc on ih. nvcM 5ide
ot $e fabricwirh a hbricrar.
hdld oi hghl) pns.d folds,
or dcp.nd on a sclins nKhinc

PRocEDLTRES
nea{rcnenL lor th. shtrrcd
fsbri. to n ch. D.cide how
gnhenng *ir.h.s shoulddB'
puy-slisLr, modmt, s.nd
os. ro 6rim.re de hnsrh ot
nnshirrcd l:'bft n.eded 'd pro'
du.c th. desind lullncs b d.
shirrtd fabdc. muldply rhe E.
g.' dc*ultEmr

dqhtilrK

by 'ne aEouDr

.lbodlrrtr

@renmirh6.:s4dl r 3 (lnoE)
2. Addinga $cona basurcnem lor
ft. non{hirEd l.nsth, ot th.
hbii Nob lnd shicd hbn.
shriir<rs4hdy d.K 'n e h'
ftd sriching (Fd xrmpl.. i
D" (r0 5cE) squr shiBl 'o
6" (15tb) my shhnr<r (5nr)
rrcn i6 non shirtd 11" oojm)
bs'n As :he nunber ot sarh
crd bwe Inc@s. shrink4e

halv6.qmir.r'nat * lbr
mdchedto corespondingses
ro PrePaErhtabrn lor gdhd'nB,.oY* tht mrl<.d lin6 wrh
srikhs. n.chin+seM *nisht
sdthlag'oiztgzagsdthulgryd

''6*heringMerhodconpss.r).
thnid. sdng. dr .od i onc.nd
(nrhinc *wing) oI mch snn
c*her ech ro{ oI nirhin8 ro a

ach ov roa nn surfaa mrkd


tht &nghg rhhdi {ings or
.ords r lhc cndsof wo or non
adjaenr rcNsof nidrins in one
trush dc tab& imo ,6clf on lh.
hudy hdd thH,ls. crther in(h

,hllslbpsW,hii,hebbx.s,.ded

.
4#

.i' L,..ri ri-,riJ.


riiijxrF-'if

I L l r r j t!r!
jrtll+riir

.'4r"1]urq.ar!i!!\riirr
ridaiDah rbtra.iadarrhe.enrar

lffii,ji:rT.r'-rl]ntr
.b ? 5 srn4

!a!r*r

dh rale

Norr5 a- VARiArroNs

r" r!r.Ing r | trts' Lr!

tarsiry tandsid./redo' onasde


sides ib) sby h;id ri.h.d rori'

L hh, r r F , r r r t . r r L r , f i \

::J' rr,5 orsrLnid srr.hn,a

g ( F , Bl r a n d( f r r b

,i{r

-|]rlr(

s't|fflbn!l]tG

i:,, rr !.d, Fr i5 !r,lunl

LrLhtro$\nl i

rio{r

r L r de o

'hc iish. drPrr0 PD0r!r, LIL

l0l

\trh radnntrgrul!15
!Drorr{rrr)

dutuE!

\1'.rr(0,D$ n'ir s

nduofLl[ rahf!. Lh. hbnr L! lrh

!.nhuD8
.{0\

on Pag! L7) 9N(d

a r*nrrrribur!

{rudurr (rcir

I!h-

rornru.

o crhsirn

ro u,/l(,rrur^s rh| h6. htdr


{(h nr.h (rft. b _(;rh.ug
\LdDds or p)s! i) r.o5o,ind

ii. drrEd

in'o rjunbl! of$\rl

og

:<
: ;
' -

A v,iiahn dl puff.d3hnnng
I,ufl.d tin .nbtl|ishs lounds

sns a 4,and5 ae *e@t ean 6

Iabri.:(1) Pns 'ht nm nlo{anG on rl'c longelgs unds


ncarh(2) r mesurd NcNrls
sF.!d dd alonerh! l.nsrhor rhe
tnp. nt h icrc$ tlr nnp.nd
srhcr dghrlr:(r) Rcducnuft dr
bncldwro rhesdh.Rd inFr
s.rions rd pdfi 'h. 'nr^rr,!s
Fie.23. dsq heaw2pdb{6 al
hLft,blnr&dch r Iold.ddg.s
F a foundarion,
shapi,,EscsLLorcdireitu kp$ (se ris. 211) Rtsd

|@nchellwhm|hgskeMTangb
fuq'hhoshj|d.gsalE||@
sfuingafuysnaww'mwng
|hedescendi.g9lfua|rE9kewed

No tabn!hrar A full or pfli'l


Lalti(Fg l lr) Aho sl'imrsth.
6l'i. b :i- on chnmdlcd.ods n
eds,noFd 'h. !nd5oI rht sds o.
mdsph.nl tb. SiLhd'ngfbn .or
hg uDdoncburauowdr gnhcnfs

(FiB 2.3) shonenrhedjshnE


sr.v.d slii,irs rq
Fo! shidng ro putl, $. dishtr(
b{u rD 'hc sarhercdo\5 inur h.
alorrNh$ rhrcws ncbu rd 1r
'h. dinaDc!berqEn sdh*d m$
b drca 'Nmd dr pdl $ho adja
rtd rcws,c rorc.ddos and.
e{{&l\
rons{ fordsdEPcof
b pufial shiniDsin coinrudion,
p,iedvdy laEc (Fig 2 s) DruP.d
elknls.

wh{6

Puredshinrg

Th. rcladonshLp
b{we! rolds
andreNso{ gadcrednndng
thangGfmo PrPlndiculai h dirg
ona|{htn shtn4 G sk$lrd

5asdt

'nc$uRdad$ 'n 3arhrtd b\s.


hut longs dm ihc rc{s o .[ov
sp{ rorrngling.(lI $. nry hbnc tr

:=

Nq aft( ft mdllg. or surh n )


Aft.. bpntuhi!8 rhelld rowb the
tir pul 'hc loldsEled tsomlnc
Iulr andholdi| rhd srinkd posnron
u'hlcbP5ddnngthcEnrcNo|
gadr.ndsltlnng. Nt6ft I rdp
shi+, ard sm disFnc tu'n previ
ousI\M (Fis.z r0) sr.vh8 shonensft rcrG io{ nssurchenl dI
ct@d J,irn,s i5sr End on
Ntrhodt onFse 6) lht foldsRi.
rl.s.d

bcNe!

qns

sdrhd in

aubidefudinchanng|so|k@an

-Ee

rirt
aL nF ir
i n1:r{3,1!'rii
ie /r' oi,rf
f! tii !d n r
siii rFdrt
ild-?ri.'ni.G'r'lqr..4ot:'gil,t
ir , E rlf

1a,r

0 r: i.1. ij . rfilrlnro

'! !r-r <rrrd


rr ao!.rrr,{!.r!..rx.,"(r*
j(r r4 F.! t an Ir ia:lni r ar I
f @ ,r!44

ri trrcd(l
i trii ,).!r!d bl f nq, !
]tl](ibr/(addju|n(ilr!d

{i! oillcr
f, f,-ir i4, fry ilr
rhEcil!orj:Id!oreA]]!]
lia@'[tl!L:de!ll]xr]fi'

H T (,NC

PATTERN
SHTRRTNG
-6brn automr a t 3hhd wnh
the sathedngrod IonN ry a dsisn

,. srekhhcs.ndrpinrhcccs

or lne pdn mjhiftd hbnc b r


pdd.dsu reaDd non\tuh
m non hdd abd{fi. shtiins.

NoEs & YARTATToN5


PRoclDURES

sidcot G. I:bft 6 the o'n{


2. rEce tne daign onrorhcrmns
3id. dl Ac hbn. $nh e hbnc
]'\Niththegathdlgloo'ilu.h.drc
$. frehtn. (dc b "6a&dn's
Mdnods on pqqct), sdrh and
s,$.r e.h ih o{ d; d6isn sqv
slo l ndppdg 'o $t&c plss
Ioound pivorihc hbric on $e
nedlc Ihflr sunline dtEdon
h e6.d.
quiE ddj6'frd'
lishL'o mod.nk ga$dns $ib

rar $!el npq6 of rhe dds!


labd
on a enPle of dre d*Ei,rd
to ddemic Gr .ppbpnaE nith
lmcG rrd rGion sdrins ror &b'
ndc ssrheringand ro 6sc d.i,ll
d.sign cfledrrss. Ihe p .n
n,y b. dt(ittrlt to lolow il rh. sth.
dng n t@ tull or th. sl. ol 'lc
'h.
d6ign is roo s@[ ro $tuk
.ihc appliton, msure : eFple
oI rh. fahric bcfoE ard aIt! a t{
shirrins of rh. pircm and .quib
qd 'hc hqd n*sumenb
M.4zln
inirg is inrreded
lns*d ot touoFiu a pdrcrd, 'hc
dd8n EDd{s rr!.\ ron.id md
h,.k*nr, ndcwiys, rcrcs' aM
riound,,ivdoping conlisurarione
ot puck$. rolds. ard prlE 6

sd.hirs{nd'g(h.nng rrcceed.
viiia'idB in rM spr.in8 rnd nr.B
ubnnsh r stithingPalnPm
dua dir6q in rh. nli* or nsn'
dd shtring sftdr lcnsthud kn$on adjunnmG 'hd frodiry ftc
lqhftir,4ishde$ oI rhegithdns
,dd mort dhcGion Thc loo.\
gaLh.iingktion .an b maDually
nnucd by inhihidns l!. hbft
fron movhg aslly bw,fti rhc m.
de Io inft*
fu1ln6s.Fm th.
frbrc by holdingit do\r Nr'h i
6nss a ir emel36behind&r
dr labn! buikls up in b&k or the
Bcrusc or tlre ddry nd .on
pl.xi1) dr rh. e hcKt $n.hiD8,
pikrn- and mrandsjhired rabhc m rcldivcly sron3 Dd i,t
rDmsR$.nd
norr4d prcredion
rtittr ssbilizin8 mayte quiftil
BsE a sby b rh! shnftd hbnc
funak

ro tiE sarherednirhrie

i )r

irit

qqqli,

rt.rr.

PATTERN
S H i R RN 6

rirj

.icansod!rnqtrtokno@su4roioliddae,

4 d'otr.
E$!Ei
iiir riff'
fcrcii!n$roioonoi
@l/F0![dhsoE@nrtrfurdg@Ern!l!e

Supplementary
Fullness

*
g
mIry
; *

, .

J Mahingk"tfJles
RUFFLE
BAslcs
EDGEFrNrsHtN6FoR
RurFrEs
Do$led.?bn... .. ..

+4

nune desigrE
. ..

56

b)cddoublctdg.J n8s7
rull.d doubh.e4ed
rurl]c. t7

s LDtsh(h..dge lhetnqfta
Lr{ of lirdrd rnmd or *dhq
lxr{ of fahnc,noronlyp}orc6d.
rdst or ,he nJne bur ?lsorfi.cr dr
$duooleofrh.lu l.i noNr[k!
G sdheRdor pl.dcd I sdfr
u,,hr.nd qrsr rhnh hasrh.l.d
cfcd or rrr."foRr:, nm. LrGd

shrll Hm

onrrmktd [dg.
Ronqr
o{rro.kedEd$ng .+e

sinslc.srdtnLm.
Lnltitd sidslrcdscdrun6 .51
Pufirdsingledg.drume 52

pdites d tua nu,in rufll* (sare


14" thh)tu|Jth dnrcary @h

Nors rhis chaprr b.ginsfrrh


BASTCS,
hdEred bya snr bhd

rppsmc

s{fl1s

trstrrpkldn

hDsc cdsr.lhuds punu !, rh.


&h. r. (no!rd. one br one. rrom

r h . n o nr h . r i n s [ o n b c n n f
mnrd G 5dytdgt f

douhlLd fab.

n.), n .rn bl'r th. .dBr (r ringd


or doubt d rid ptrIl.d nLllt.), or
ftaudir G $rin nnch.do' cor
Ldu(d{ldjKd runo tr fs Edse

frhshs drPcns. ,!oid snrss.nd

row z!?a8 eDs

tu bF or 'h.

non unnnll,ngrunhdwnh.ur
r snip
ror.,dnuh, 1orhc.dsc.
Lrncol sdrhtd rhread
ri. obviors
on borl,sid.sorrh. rum.rwrl, orlj

lcngl[ (Fig ] l) Arrfs.rhqiq

d{plr frinsdnm6 rm,lrostr


cDiird.'r'. nrl|r,riri,!fi ,rs
m,!tr o/rtrl,r't.'h. rid,rDI,rl
R l., 'h. /.mq ot l/l. s,n0 t's or
PJdir{,

,fti 'Jr Pr i.ft?l

Ftr 33 F6ins a sirde bb edse


tinish:la) P'wte thetufltdlip as
shawnlb) Fad at he tus e@ al
A loldturish$rlt flo nsd$

rit4ir

ddrbhdJar'ir Doublnedn5 body


h rht rlFk rumtRndhnLkio rlr
huDch.d
snrr o'pl.n lolds! rhc

ij,ft ol rr..pr,J,raio Icr dtu d


nor edsrfinrhB or a nrap ol rlr
ins tu,xmc alH$ f,nshrht
A frft

LhLlms nls$ h doubhrh. run(


{ip c( Lh(shp Io! a rumew
rlo sid!\ (i ddubl!-L(ig.dnnd
rwift N nide* horhn fs rLus

nn ed3e.aPPrePrhrfor

on rll ord
rJd ndl,is b Lhr
dethnioDoI rherufie! .d8t cnt
llnishbgquicklynnc ronnwd

dd nndins Lin.ro douL. ft rur.


lL {nP (ng r4) Edstn H5aD bc

't|E piri.d

cdg.ol a wdrn Iab


ncrum!.orulli lur6 ou,btrl
ksnGnYtlrrnsPinrrhsdo6n\

soill olled. Afrfl arl)li.nioD. a

Fie 3 2. (a) stutdy ne

eatadhs

(b) snhped hi@e tinishs6hed al

whrn ,h! qr{/3r or rLc hbri.


tss.dsr]'.!ilg!ol.flfflc.'h.
edseis dffinrhd. Tht $nbiF

ft beNn.d{rhotrr{}Lng
hndd

t6en

{rh insid. a shsh fotd

l,

andhbri! 0r or ftknsrhsnLn.
ol rh. r.bd!. pdrr uP,hL rlod ot ,

ldsdhtr vih rho';or

(Fis. r ,.
:,.,

rheson.ird.l'mt qu|nr or!


rum! !trh a frh8.d {+r insq*s
!r,l,c 3{h{n3rht

a n,mrfih a

rhr ar L{lsr oI rhe hb,i non rar

tns edses:(a)sinde4d@ntufte
.tip (b)Dalbled@d ruttbskp
b|edsrbhrng/galhahglplea|irglire

id.is!,

ro rlt Lrr ol,lr iLLll.

l-r--

.r. iodPri rris I t) orNr5

rrt
ota tune st@ G) Ma.h)nelbh the
drdire ta rhe skir wth 'sLt .id6
tdqethcr Eirhat tb) hantt nkh bo
brdededge|olhe]ah|ngseann
ba.k, at l.) ptn he bindns. tabed
edse beydndthc hhhs scan h

T\

tv *l,

'in th,cttibn
td) sew th,adndrng
Fiq.3 6 (a) tnrsde b.ds *M b
2 tune slnp, t6) lundd b the 6a.k
tu,h a eantauredand edaes chej
|fulngedgeslllxuchedinba&
(d)Decatat e ta.]@ dth both ede6

\!tr,,

[Nrs lo.r Mkr]d

ro rrf

.ach'tu at (a)a eEte &9& turb,


it lb)a daMcdsed tutu, b theriehl
bolL'lqLd5(fLs l3)

n n P m 6 L n L \ i hi i d . r f b u

ntrtuLJdrdsr .r rhr binLlD(b 'Lqmennf lrl !,( !tritr,sdr

firdns n dtrLh!aon iur \r[n!


Lr'!dhq J$ orlh h.ng 'o dr

dtbnrdir*ro1rr

(Lll. ifis J i)

\i!a'iri

Ih. r no.r

oldNhl. t0ld
dla nm. \tL , d.hq $llor

i lglircd inlh 'hn*ng!or.

pr$Lng r do!bLIold htn' uo rh.

trdt u'ollrr

rd

r.!" o,nnrl and p(!

b n G i n o t h . r o r dt ( { f ?

tr' (5Nnr h iu{n \1d'h Iu Lh

1t
r \!,.; s;b;;;(:.-

t
lir no,shr nkht,l ,ro,rk lord

atlaErce down\' l3nn). rake


aa (6nn) sfuehn tre hen atb\|
hteae at tnah6nc jtst bchw the
snothet,' lhn) srbr n he hen
ta, I 12scn) slrptrs atuet2
stbh bdo|| h,c tun lc) pltrhe

Fis 3 la la) a'nb stnp td a shen


h3n lb) Daubb lda hn zxawan.e
antt ptes lc) fhe slitehtto q'ry the
B|irg|heneedefuMandaradb|
tl l6m); p6h t thtaDehthe )rnel
h@ takJand oi h bact td) c{ry
hpe avet the hen le) Pu te tread

Fs ?12 la) stniEhtstw)@ a tut


na
bbrabhenu apndaten@rbh

't
,-*

wh a p)nred
la) staishtnibhe Men ctt
cDt (c) gded
Lah he

cdqe lb)zi9za9 lthd


wheDth3 ,etJc-eE sdsht
tud vrh a Mn reedtc aDdu)

l rd
.ri

r {r!h{rtd
mrs\trhoft

r0'

$inrlis

ik

.l{tJJb!bln(l.lh..igl.

P(*(

Lqd !, LruL,h,o,

r.j,sr

.q{5 rhc:isrs rtr.hs (Jr rof

'ir

ihDAro.n|ot i+r rr

I
t

E
i

!
=

N-{s

1 si,sreroLdhinrnx

pr{.d Nd dtrdA. n.v


{d)
G)
F a 316. Satrsrb@ d9n9s: (a)se\|ndturtt oEt he dt e@e tb) sewn
otet an eneehnned ah{ 2iszassrbhedptIatztior tr) sewhare, ) ktded
edqewth thetuastestbwarcethned aro sth sribhinq.td) se,n avetan
enqelundqaskFtle'nataawrhfu
stbhi@.te)s,.wnow a try, stashtsrbh,edsinsretddhen tut dk:!p.4

lrin,

1\'tlltlg.]\nLrfN,|hol'l'

th. finsr olr|I rl}(d Lound


!d*h$. iLreJKi/h..dsrrs. r rhlr
rrr (ris r-r6) ro Prs.d Ir Qr
,,u !$eLLh{$r(i$fod
rn(h rr|Inrhri.(riB

r ri)

srNni.Lirg(F's r r0) o|'iD\:


wtrhLh.(ftLnrirNo,ssidiu.
$! N'h 1lt u{dre jun Dcqu*

an ov.rr@r.d .d3. requiE a


nrs* o,*ro.red sdhlJry mclc
6 se c$.dg. oI i rr tu srrp
iBid. ' l'dd.rcd chainof loay
ftEds (Fjg.3-2r) with sriicb
bsln shon.n d ld d.r r]lIad
.@ge. fie erin stibhed .dsbss
ddnib.d ,!d inEnaea pF ously
c.n b. aupkiEd by ovslochns
srrh r ssei Ik $q* rdf .rin|f,. n..iil.

Gerrrnro
SINGLE-EDGED
RUFFLE
+
of ftb.k virh on. hn!
ldge"dp
sthered b a $ora aE4
n.uuroma! md id.hen @ iht
6brr.,-Iheoppgne edle floc h

hd dthg rhe f'bnc

PRocEDtrus

9.p b 3fthjl o!r 'he seuon

it u! wh.n r beom6 rec*

L cho6r an appmprdb rnd .llktiv. .dg. finkh for fte rfile


(EIer b "Edgc F tshing fq

rr. zisas srirh.d edsrdn

rh. 3ftkh Eh,l. rh. body of

Rums' onlqse4r). ro $r,


sidln foi rhenfile saip,dd r
$,m dloHnce b lhe cdshed
ddln sl.crd loi ll. nm. ahd
tndud. rllosn.6 for th. sled-

Fs.3.m (a)LdM.dsirc M a
t#t\dt
tb) wq sdsitg n tias.

LrclA @dxnen eagn|s tv


*rss rftion of ho ine.dsins. !l.
dgas 6ni5hd*dbed pF:osly
Mrh i Prcc.duBrdirhrnc As[.d
aqlo.k d dsis srich.d uti &.
nsht sid. oI l]1. Lld. !p. on a ss
a frIn a 3ihnrd stirh, dsh@ld
rosd leP< &Eion toG $. upptr
roopdrbEd @6ll ,mnd b rh.
backoI rh. h6ri., totrs rhe.+.

Flg3zzFab,n3hp6aJ||6ga[t
eted sinde4de.d tunh6 tua
|!||bddhahdasenalbwM
b6dekogdhlings@whh
edge r ead 8 ftqdEd |ol fu Ch;

r. Deidc how nu.h rullnG the


SarheEdromeshoulddcplrslighqDods:te, s.n.ms,
u&$ sd .n .fkrrhe gsrh,
sing hry.r n*ucoDt fq rh.
am. ToErimtr rh. ldgrh oI
ln. rnF n.ed.d tu pnauce lne
d6ir.d rulrnds h &. rum.,
Erldply lhe 6rgd nsslEtunr
t'y rheamounr
indi. edince

dldNilrix=

lr4dt x 1 {rmor)

mthins ldg'br ol rh. rum.


fabdc,idendcrl in frdrh ,nd fin

. Aricndr dcc of sriF.r dn


lhe sMighigEinol th. hbn.
d,h rnErdsi! th. \qvc. To
.xrnd ,h. lcq,h df a rum.
snip,ss rhcshonedgs of
fu5dP5bgethg\i'hnghl
{rLe f,.ing dd eds6 m:rh.
open(Iic. '2r) (ro con
dnbB rff! ndp curon rh.
shighrgnb, rcLr b Frg toi

arewen'|hghlangl$fubdh

(Efc ro
rhe hrsd m*surme{
"6aihei3Me,nod
on pasc 3),
scung bside ih dslgDad
sanline inside th. *m .Uo*
arcE ro drr dth I lengdy ruf
nc nhp g{h.rd on Pulledrftsd nitching, divide &e de.
b be 3lrhd.d imo [rlvB, qu,i
rE. or.iqh$s; ru
rhedni
sons bdk.n *cEerB !i'h

Fis 323. c6stah tuke*aB ro

Iqrde ro similar bur smeU.r

hawasfudgeedqefu''
large||fustip'dndextahb|b
frnne:4elfidhqakru|||e

. Forbi,ycutsr,Fim rh
hbric Ijrh lins fiat .rcs ln.
.

.xdd rh. lcngrhdl a rfi.


nnp, ss theangl.dedgs oI
M5dP5egethd!i']righl
sd.s fr.ih8 dd samlinE

the *rn ilowanc open


(Fig r,r4) (Fo!a co,rinu
oNru 1. nnp dr d! n\eln6,
Ers 6 Fis.e 13on plge 200.)
4. Appll 'h. selededfinnh b one
roig e+e dr rheromennp.

Dtsrnhr 'nEsa'necdmlr
6. Pd rn. g,rh,rededseof lheruI
lle sdp ro rlc l,bd. \'hFe it r!
b bc applicd;bsr dtedy ov.r
lne g{h{ins nfths Machine
b6idc ln. basGg/cadcnng
$tcn6, hidins rll .onnndion
nn.rils ard the 3afidcd $m
allowana in 'n. prcc*s of

Fi!325'IoiFenafohlairlaa
,@n (a) Basb uEtufltdb tabic
*1. lb) Ph ttbk 12ow he tuttb,
bes@ theha.ins G)aph@r
. As, hcn ru(1ctlEr lis on
bp of rhehbnc 6 whichir
Irom $c f,bft to whrh I
is dkched For top nfis,
Fis I ll on pag. i) For
loi rarins *,n allowancs
inchd., (l) ziszassdrhirs
(Fis. 3 16); (2) c6nne wirh
, litus o! ildsibre hchs
(nld b rE 4.9 on page70);
G) coanng sth a d{ohlR
Iacins(w thc rmc dshr
nd. up b rh. wronseideoI
rh. hbnc {d run rheri.ug
6 thc fron0i(4J .ds.nnc[

rumc{ips nrtd earh.nDs.


auromaic sdhdns urng ft. Srdenns
fool or Bm{ rhdnnor ts s hn
(Referro
and .rrd.nt irrfn{i..
'Gafi"ins Mdhods'on plg. t)
as gdhctus dcnir in.r66,

i
ae. 323 (a)Funb*sbd b tu
edsaota circtebetaEtb)edse.

M: la) s.tu ltE nne b tu ttutaE


.dce'zigzaqqovefukfu@n.
ab$nee ds* tb) Fuiaa han
rrtrns.mnt (Fie r-27). The
n@rinsals of ln. rumE
$$t

oEilPs :covo$

ft.

appl'udon d.bils of rhnft.


bdo{ thc sRh dlolroc or
rheDm r ln. bp ml be
5io! or ralfic Tl[ nm. r rh!

NorEs r VARTATToN5
,trumcofso(lnhrabnc.an
b. gdh.rcdmuchnon dch+ lna!
B@!a r rurncor on drebns
tn& b zb6orbsarhdsr 'h{
nitching lde, a hi6-dr rumc n,y
bc garhd.d nu.h FoE rshrty rhsn
a rumedr o rhc sn$hqEh of
rh. ene fabnc Topftduurtracdc runns a, rhenoadrscdge.r
widerumenecdsughE!sadenng
Rnfilt niPs mrr br g,rhsd o!
rhEd nn.rd by hard or shicht
q zis4g{lilchcd by hachine on.
!rip! sathqedlid trsft b nod<r ddTry br shk. s*henng r
nor ssily omrcned sth fr!
nvsorsdahing.wltny &or

Fb 3.27.netedtufits 4died ta2


tu edthacd4tuni. md lqzis

sLbhhEavettheedseat th tuhteE
. A, ,heedeeoI sDrrelftr ln
lill b. rPPliqudto a toundi

(1)!rus , n'neB*n dlo{aDc


(onlr rhe$:n aLlovnrt). ldmng
lrqkl on &e noq (2) msh dr sun
rr]owan.c,kunul,tidn
uod(
nEisht. :ls:aggd. or overlolkEd
ldinin$ O) olgcrn.h 'rhtrsh all
lry.B iftd aPPlyirurhenmq
(a) or ,ry .onbimuon or n\e abwe
Bulrgsm allowrnG tdnribunn
undrtl) in8 limn6 ro Rpdtinons
lrh b* of galnsedsinsrc.d8.d
Thes,thcd ed$ or a shsle.
edsEdnft. is ndiblc. pdnnLnE
.un.d ind rye Dsted appticl
ctEL.oI]ngltsill{rckhd[md
luil d 'henodinseds.unk$ r t
garhendah ichdv r rlrc$urc.
Add ldlgA b 'n. tufiL rip ro
alio{ Ior rhedcn* sdh.ing
.ur!.d ud anslcdapPrjGrons
insid.a cun.,.irck. or rnglerulr
bulgeri$ squekd tolds{ $.
no:us Mgc unlc$ the srhenns n
lishEDedFor. nLmcappltd
g{hdin$ rora irmcsppltd bd.

rhc ends ol rufi6

rla mdrk

loo* ends The flrdsolnm6lhr


nop d { cdse or rh {oundadon
I{bi. wilrb. duehr id Lhc$m
FA 83. rwo

rhe mds of ru{nc rhr ldp widin


rl'.Idundarod rab.icslould rpa
or &n ,nro rlr. $pktuo!
sEn

na, the uppet iunb

applhdasfub|he|abicbedge

rhc lo,ring urs. dfu pd./ rii


3r(.d3!d ljfr. disrl)4f in '
rull1cshru $nh a dorhlrd.frbri
rumesdr lrtirr ro [dgc rinBhtr$
fo! Rufi6" o! rasc11) Xrh.
.'lg.sdld'!n'n.nriP{cUloD

bffi6kegalhaingedgea|ke

A nsr.,nrrr ru.t. hn . g u
ing dg. rhap.d ii ascalloPPr
rm carlrnng inighrns our lhe

nnlhing,h. cdss bsdherfo!


s.dc.ng lr rherune 5dp L cut

{i.hhyaPPLnrion rinenn'ghr

Donlrrts$eIoLdarhrfioa.ie
|dg. Af,{ sihnng ald aPnLi'rion.pull r. rwohltE dfrheruf.
neap* ropoulrh.bodyorlh.
En (.ja 3-3t).Ruf[6lcs un
f,(2 t.b) wid. frunclEeffodsr
*pan.ng dr. h)rs DoublednJ.
116ot .nsp [,bir ]" (5.h) $ c dr
6drt nlf e irh th! mor bnor?n.r

loped ro rnd
|l[ ilhdud| onsi
nill!.ur inr rhegrhftrng.de.

(Fis r-12).rra sinsLc{l,dLrutd.


n curr nddtrblcdf,b.. Gd' ro
'EdseFinishing
foi Ru r.r' o!
prgc{4), rh5tu[s.ar bc pultd

hrdly pufid'll. b ftb i. Lh.


pull. uck th spEadi,s rufil. hbnc
r intrryd5 ro sch 5idcor rh.
.ppl'driotrn,m ForPumnss
rhr
nor Nhrft ftt fodndiro! Iabic

ns.3-34. (a) Ruties Mk sta,aht ul


(b) ro
*ds anetued h a Mhs
8n|a|heedga:tih'gaw'and
.|Ech|hefofljel'enfubbpe|ed
@d. (c) ra tan ad: PDnhe staioht

(b)

ris. e

,!fltepat
t4 strate.sndn

oP!nid3.
flj'ro andb*r $ rhe

donqabdve6b6 tb) at the2ad-

wnlhednd@bhkthesbfu\'
whn a rufr]c 6lfd
d rar.d
(dr ro t4e Fhishins ror Run.!
on paseti), .onou!ry lne floding
.d8E.a! oPdon.shilc rltc.4. sil
houdlc lbh nrli3hr o a dmp.d

ourrimdmr.ngrs ed curus rt '


Lris or Iacirs G ,pprolirii't bur
r shDll codourcd
noRnne.dge
L
rrt d6ind pftnle. corbur ft g
dry d3.w'rh.rl[ ga'j.ft3 edse
ldnbmd. Lheooadngcdgt or 'he
rumsdp ntuE shighl tor ssy
rPPftrion ot rhcdc'ftd .d3. {innh

{| aPdndb! orr4)..d rngt.


rdg.d rujl{ n,hrcunds rhdm
nNc efid or hrllr dg.! rvo {
i,oft rums. srhscd *piiard), b
aYoidnsrl.d tdl& a' thl sdhered
rh. orhtr \idr sarrrrd &g!5
,nrdtdg. and iNn ro dr lourdi
norug cdg.ofrheupFinft

16

Fie.e. (a)DaMhbrc
itr.
s|np.0|he'highlganan|l
pLqins.lb) s@tatins thes2thercd
taFE wh ttu heb d 3 dowet.

reiFi}:oadlaJfo!ltci!,ili':nll!i'j.*

4ie"-!'lr
dE ! 1 ,- ri-

rr i 1! i[x ! j r4r b]..,l


q.r :," rri.i/ i,i-M+

,!T

I 3 ! " ( { ! ' q r . , . r l i r : 5 r Di ,

rir b d: td

jn

!I fie !ll5

TPE'

\,LE:D:!L]

.F

toll, fr gausr lh. nrlhbs dG.


bre Ircn llt iighr cdg. or rh.
sdp enh a delne on the bcd ot
the $nns nkhirE Follodng

GATHERED

DoUBLE-EDGED
RUFFLE

g{h{ b rhe hl8er nGurchenl


(r.ki ,o .cadenns Merhodc
on pasc r) To ddvd
a
lensfty nmt nnp ealhd.d dr
pnned ,hEad nitching. diudc
rh.lhc to b. $,hecd inro
halvs. qurtn, d .'8h,hs;
hrk rh dnisiom bds(n ng
n.nG {nh pinsor dElk EquRr.

rnripo|hbrtFthered6a

sdbmeds4fEFadth
add{nd

sarherednkhrns i the

Fb 3.36.ropsM
appbran tu
tuubb edeedtudtee:(a)staiihl
ftnaftd a@tu.

lb) za2as

srbhine.le) sah stuchind


andtd)
e.o@|ift9lilchi@ew||haga|he|

PRoctDLrxrs
r. choo* m rPPrcPnnca .IIc
rlr rinrh rd h. flo,h8 eds*
of,hc rumeEld edg.nay hlYe
,hr *ft or a dif6e finish
(R.t( 0 .Eds. Fidnhinefor
Rur06" oDpige 1l ) ro d{s.
oinerhdd,rr oI d. rum.
nrp sc' i I'nthed rlidlh for tht
rulle on s.h sid. oI rhcmrred sdkhins linq hdud., fo!
dd, nd.. rn irorEn.e fol rh.
*kcGd.dge hnbh:robl nL
n4surndas (Fie r rj)
r .ollo{ rheprceduns ds.nbEd
for .gRih.ftdsbsk{dscd nn. ,
nPs:r md |:r, on pag$ 49-j0
r AnrLrrh. *rcdrd hdh b borh
ronsedss orrhcnn. snp
(ft.rcd nn.hi4 rincpilh '
hbrn $r mcd,uh or a pr6*d

n.

by *3nHr

ro rhe iargd

NoTEs& VAru{TioNs
t. wirh a tabfic eit n.diuh, ru*
st,ichtoldning|ins'lr(indi
.aE rhe pr.rtn.n' oI &e Dfie!
gatn{ed nir.hing. Foi esy a.rtr,
n.y fark 0orh* lin. ro rh.
4h' rbr 'h. 4shr Edseof tht rul:
ne 'o ner (u*.hrlk. di*ppor
'ng p!. a row or p'ns or r r.n.
ponry lichq F$cd lold)
Makljns $. na. b the suide
rd. 6r51irch on thr g.rr.d8
srirl'c b ibch th run. b llc
round,don. un nEishr or apprc

s{ds bym{hinc c's r 36)


u$ $. birr b,ckir.h forhind

Edscfndr, erlhcnns dr6i):


hbncdundcnsics,rnd nne
dinduonilry or Lh0odiD3dss
r fie sids ol doubl.{dged ruff6
Ih sbndarddoubtc.dscdnft E
$dertd wnh hrnd nirchjns. nrh
snaightor z'3ilgg.d n&hire
nrthbe saftenDsusingrh. $'hding looro!run{rb.hncnr (nltr
b crhcing Mdndds dd Pascr).
andir is snhd on s nnEhr bw
of nr.hins (lered bcrwcn dre
DrqsdngltuE lnesbndard&ft
nru.r?rndel b No. rhe.. o! moE
pdEnelrc{s olsiirching tulP7ed.
$dn or t'iftd 'xj'rFinrodu.6 i
d(on!!c bdd df coDrlnalfolds
bdwmthe]oo*loldsEl5eddd!

s-:,a,1

nd6 (Fi&3-r7). o,rn dddoB ,!


nmc 8,,heEda lide of{fltrtr or on
a srirhingrrtu dEroFE Appli.db
a bundnion u& ln. garhsednirhbe shishrned out. rlr a'ning fld.

sdrhin3lnc bclotr8a'n.dnBrErdr
'o $e silhoudG oI dr. 0e!t$ eds6

Fb. 3.s7 s$*d

. sdo1, hs renzrcd sernr B

ean nrne whh

gabeh!Addefua@|a|lhe

It rh. snrhins 6 be sdhertd


veE Ircm cdgcb edseblr s Cdh
sed unril rhft.hins s sdghr,
lne nofng eds* ssume shdl'lik.
formrions. Pann5 Ior theBIhd
ins thd prcduca i donbl.jJ'sll
rufl hir !pd. oclo*d by stith.
tnc ld6 Ald mrkins 'he stuInrs
Iineon $e backof fte tuft n.p.
8:lh.adoubl.rhe[nmebyhsnd
b reul c dr shiprs oI r]t slEus
B..aus oI i6 unEual ehaoing,i
doublc{hdl am ror b. .ri.r ro

ins fiey nesotiarc


rr8hL.trRawilh
unobhdve sr,fing ind squ*:
hc d oppsr. .dsc. RumcddeE
*Tloit theconud ter{ei {rd
ing bandsof rofils urh rjpPliDS
edg6 ind smoolnb,&grcund
xrc$ A scmlledrofiI. d6isn .on
toim ro . plaNed, Ep6dlg p.1(
Fm of lin* rk.d on ih ngh'sid.
or ln. rodnd.ron hbnc (Fig.3 r9)

Fig'3'B'Namqdauble.edgedfoL
fiesercl&ira|qn|i@Mvs

Fg'341'D@ble.adeedfuMlcp.
sli|tfuwihd94bL.Jr|@lfuw
@@M h6 spad a Mtuel
tur highma$ednm6. mwsdr
doubh{dssl ans m rop6dEhed
bgeLhd$ dos.l! L\i rdjamr rur.
n d dg6 arcfoNd up\2,n to nm'
,bourolc-Dmedd'h lbo{ Iounda
rionlsd, bu41ngd. bpsrithedad.sa,rrftd *ins (Fig.3Jr)

An .llovd mfilc design pnEG


the surfae Nirh a d.,nddbg.
urpl,n!.d ipplmrion of nms

Fis.3.se.@ stith ne e0 des@

tu. 342 Dtubta4ds.n ffia bpsdch,|lhCon$*dfu@re&naE


fueM|abic|it)9w|1hg3nga,
ak'aledfusbfuqdephs

t6i, sathu nd he tn<kd 3n +'hs


nne4Elghlens'gu|eand@nhle
b ho re dnqte (b)cah1e dNbreshettufi|a.lc) ctry vedon al
@. Fuhts @therent@ Petuft
ld) ard le) tuve u@ht sidetffi.

shiqht d slighdy s^ts

6*

or

w
picviouly a@hEd
rum6 o0 to the left oI the pr6d
Ioo! hold $c .dg or i\e ddd nI
ne ar) rrofr $. nrtdt ud r ruls
wbn. bpsrirchins rht nes nm. A
ond rpphdton $ll nccd band

Fig3.40'Nafuvdfuble.adaedfut bl rkhn
rh3 fleibiliry or doubL{4.d
nmb. cnwing rherumealtG rh.
nort of bothdss rhe aordng
Iold5o! 'h. hid. cdct ol rh.
.une ina*rt l+il. ihr foldson
$c ouside cdgedeqese { 'ne
nep. '1. floding ede.lotd on
rh. outr oF-. vill *rcth out md
rurnuPunl.$ rh! gdharngar rh.
srft tr aPr.blly lghr *lich
will dus th. lullDssdedd o!
rhinsideof rha.urv.6 swdlin.o
buhds rolds only nno* ium6
r" O ttn) oi l.s {ion.dgc ro
tdse areued ror afl. /.ri!E.

rI@d tu ]a Forrd* ffitd nr


fl6, $ni+t d odiDs rc$ ordou
bl}dsea rumc ar applidb a
Iound:rio!drh nodhs !dg6 rou.h
bg The8'&ri.d md ropsdth.d
s,s f r vdblc componctu
or drc
c d$isDedsurtu. (Fis.ral )

E d!'ddon. n fti rhc loundnion


Gbft $LtL e tnpoFry sbbiltel

bteEd ao'bte..ds.a 14116 e

'b(kd ono!rt 'hc drh* qfi


d.! snhrnns nii.hs mdchcdj

F4ful'Layeid|l@Irgedqsso|
bieht. nshq hbh abve the t@

1 put d ,]odl..cds.d 'afe mu" bc


ft, andnndrd fmh doubr.drabnc
$nh trnpto*rd lolds(* "Eds.
F,lnhins ror Rum$, rn paser4).
rkr gdhdn8 ind ,ppli.rio!. pun
,h. nd. ru[l$ bypullder|r 1iy.6
apJn{nL} b 'Iufrd singleedg.d
dn. on p'gr52) v,narb!:
Doubr$dgedntu qi$ ont sid.
pured md lhe odE sd. ' sEnd*d,
ndhe..ds.d flme (Fis 3.44).

entd rLlte t4 r@ thetu d tu


d@ tb)bern sdtsry. t )ah6@r

fufud|dpultingaiqFfurnq
raPq oLlin rheendsor douSlc
.dgrJ flrfls fiI noP vnhin rhr
Iounddionrabrn rapenrg involvc
ldldins dr cid of rh. rumcsdtj on
r[c {n.hing ]incdrh rjabrsids
kcingud*wi[g, *
lhd grad

n* ro $. drhersidtortne gnlr
dtd aan Br hard, scq.rq fie
8:th.r.d qn {trh rirh6 ftlr

ld)andth daM b tafidatd bvel


.

Fa34Prep6n4gafu'bl*ed@d

ro dh.h ld a fou'i!oo. lo|'ii.h


n.i 6 dr ga,heEd srn rith rlrc
sid. dr a zrDpdrod up .gdin rhe

r tu.ri&t 4)r. h4 lhrt. n@dns

sidea,d i nkh on rI. d'hssid.

oYcE[ wid'h oI thr rumenrjp


includsrtn. rumcwidrhs.
$,o {
rhesidG ofonc dotrbledhbnc nr
n in nr &nEr lFis r.46). Ttr
noadis edaroI thc m. in rhr
ftnt( G nMys on rhelold rhe
Sabcnnsnam is nrchcd $iough
rwolay.6 of rabricI nme! lidrh
hon &.Iotd wirh th. finnhcd
dsc t.lo$ rh. sadcnd rLrching
lpreadour inb sidr tufns. rh. rur.

oI$.cnrrnmi tu.k d ruta.


oploB iodud..nlaingor dds
D3 rh. $id'h o{rhc(irr ruintj
sn'P.hnsi4 or Pumnsrhec{d
n,m.. hd garh&irs&c cmd rum
Nq i .od instrlt hsik ih. lold

:s!!!+!!!!ojraql|ljnddl

mrh.d e+.! rdn G. dc*s.


rnd bpsurrhrorhr foundalonro
hD rhc.ndofa rurnc$w thr rhds
d rht siderufi$ bsnhd rdth
ogd.i

oprn,pulldo*n,andri.k

_ir.!rloai4

^rq!!rs

I
lt! 4.!d)

__-,/ in;a;;;

'lldrL\trLlll.fi(lnDindl

Hn'd.d,4bs

'1a I r.ded

: l

ffi

-.-1*;,r.

i!

\'1.e.
q4i
il!

:.-t:
16
.-?i!

, , f,

PLEATEDSINGLEOR DOUBLEEDGEDRUFFLE
- srip ofhbfr. redled in hnsrh
ry sl*mdc roldinsaidorud wid'
dkhli8 ,lons oie eds. or den de
.4kin'e dseor ed8* of i dac
en rufrefdr h Esuhi oderry toldr

PRocEDtRrs
r. c6e i pk{ing snrngemenr
Ior li.
mc Gig 3.aq) DKide
wherherfte lolds wttl be pN.d
z. &lkr d.dgc 6ntshL\at{ill a{{,
lh. to16arfte nod ,ge6blt, o( 'I
drcple6 a to bEpK.d, in
dsellirsh tnit wilLaaeptshsa
cr.ig (nra b "EdgeFinishins

rllow,ncs tor the *leded t4.

Iinish:For a nneb.dg.n rufilc,


Erq ,o n3. l 22 on psgeJ9: lor
r doublcedscdrumq afF b
,+.Toclcula& the lmglh nqnncd
tora rum. sdp plcd.dro rh.
b4d nssunnmr Mzk. ,
lolding gau8elioE a 5hdi,nrip
of paperha*d M'n dob
(l.ltn) spa , 6 aprrepddc Ioi
pl.rtins dePrhand Inpl.ncnk
do! rh. doB indi.at plar
folds:lnc d$rr. bcNEn doB
equ,lsple* d.pr\ countddE to
agular plEtsprtg. Mrtchins
do6. told ino ]Ic chcm rLn
m,ngcnenr Applythe follo{

shighrgnh or dler,bh., Ftcins


sdir6 ro.'n{ iI mcsry (crs 'o
Fl&I2r onlege50) For, sngh
.ds.d rulle, aplt &e *ldd
ds. llnisho on. longt4c or&e
rumesbs rorr dNble-d3ednr
M,ikinsfirh r disaPpfbg p.n
or dElk o! tnc nghrdde of th.
(6nn) to ,." (l rcn) ,In{, as
pn pl,nn.d. slorg lne unfin
ishededgeroi i single.d8dro{.
ph* rherumennp. *cuing
nrthin. strhins. II the dfllr
rdp it side or rh. iibht ldp,
hanl to@. pin dd hind bste
rhe loldsbcrorchachin. sri&h.
shps oI man4able{idrh and
Eehin nitching (Fis. r-50)
Fu . ptstd rumeqrh sh,QlY
ds*d Iolds,Pr$ fir lolt

(top Fow unlca3ed; Bononhow P!...!d)

I-llJ
l.
Fiq.3.50'rofup]eabwhire
n^edan|hesLpgihdEdpola

sbdln*dleilNinbdb6|P6hil
crip xE je tattud tatd
the
pdnbd|ip4|he|abic'li,eunde|
"tk
Fig949Pl.abdfufuarhgemnb'

7. ro atx.h r Pleftd dnglc.cdsrd


n'mcrc nd rrbn!,tddrti rhc
n.n.rIhEa,orGrh5uirbtc
sudrc apprr.addn(rtLr .o FiBs
Pas$5o-rt) roPnidr a pleL
cd doubl. .d8cd ru[]. ro (oun
drion rabrn {{'n3 olq lhE
rurfl!*anLh. Mrch rhcna
nli n,nrln. o. rhen8h alge oI
on thc fabn. (rcfci b Fis ] 36

NoDs - V,4fi-arroNs
Bfsrh rh.QPlkdjonsan.
pLeredrufis arcsrodh filn d6.
.iPlinedrords,nd unddtaycre.
conp,id ,o sdhercdsirrsk dsrd
Prcncdsinglccdgurn ma (em.
Lns'n. eme bllet
e k$ bnlky
At rhc nod. Pl.rkd oms rcll inb
ainnsd fdld5 rhe r}?e of pt.d
rtfcdsdr ddn idvrkd pleu
6
lhirc box Plear er$!r Pt.nrg
ar sc'ndrs 'h{ i.a'!rt roalied
fullD$-e*5

isolat.d in bdw{!

mPl&rd $sne!6 oI rh. nmt


nnp<onu,$ bu6c of foldedful

Pklt d.prh b6ed on a Iotding


sruge ol do6 spard !o EorE lna!
, (L3on)apsirnl,rspbpdr
riomuy b ndn rufne lidrhs rnd
:ppLi.inds. Fd pt!i' Iomadm,
Idld. rhe inn* lold an,l rhr ourr
ford n,r.h Poirr of one rr . rnd,
deu. ro Pbn ddc rumc {ipi
Pa(rubrly iI lhc plt& aa ro be
prEsed mnk rbe.dgt d eds$
dtn a duplicrc ot lh. do6 on rh.
snlinq mfth all rh. nisned do6
{hn rordins and pftins sch
pld; and bsr d lh. .dsc or cdga
s scll 6 on rhe smliiE. Lo.ar

4mc, bw mesd dmcs.rnd


lddd ruflI$,qndions d*.nbed
lor g{tund fgr.- Dd dable.
cds.d run pttuin o p1.adrul
n$ 6wdl. Forappli.ario.s
dmr
rtqune quandrrs of Plc&d rurn6.
u$lltn fldi(rthrcnrrd.onveft nme nnps ,nro aronaftrllt
klirFplered ,nd nRishr srdrd
iinsl. or ddubre.edsed
.urn6
sinph sdju$nmr .hrn$ rh.
duchnetu Ircm cdluing b p1.d
ing modearl rcsulat thr $pail

'ne Lbnc. Fns lighrry b hdrd rh.


.dge d! eds$, and nmr pi.s
rholougblyrd prodtr&a rumewirh
qnp rolds(donrrnovruDril.ool
d dr}) ro @inhh llt inrgtuy
otlh. toldr,ippl) arased. Plar
e,:lruIfl. ro rhc lounddid! i a
Likt sdheBl rufil$. epDlt,
doDsoluipft sed Plred ru{n6
bg will aftpr sEcefutl]l The folds
or s mrc! bdviiEn.d Pr'4 ,uj[.
or nrllld

or allo!* nfil. lrcn(B

lnldedbdxp]abdfuflbabmbly
iEitu as r n@h@

n iaht curc.

Fb. 3.@. fhs tufle. a ge\9i@

-i =.

.:t=;
4-

( MahingFlounces
R4nrlra

CTRCULAR

FLouNcE

lh. dudng

Ri?i,6 ojn .@ins ndrdtr oI /

inne4!ho@* edge.TheronsEt
edgendth9v*hdfo&'

PRocEDURES
cnd,njnda-'he

nEi+r

dNde

2, choo* beseo a nource firh


narcss .onnolledby rhedius
or th rcund cu6ut in th oid'
md rht hnglh ol rlr flouna
. Thc smuu lhc ndius of rh.

cmeslcurout.
rhesnrr rhe
Diond'-any

ni8hr Liie

Fig+lciblsdi!@inbh|eei@
cu@ bat hecffi4 thetuttdened edseat he raw

rhe,li{rnnce beNrtn rh. .n


ofrheloanng.dgth.rsa,

funlbalCina|cu@a|i1fu14'
ro slun. a llouc, smpL In.
cfid of &nrEr cdou6 6n nry
'hesn. in d.pdrandshghknd
hng'n fieapplirim sn
I Tod6ft a d(uLr noun( psc

b, mdiG olrheou inedcii


cks (G) in F8. 4'3).cut our
the cinhr noun.. p{rcn
4. ro srin{e rhe febncnquin
ne ror a Prdcurar cirdhr
noun . applidddn (Fis +4):

nen6, oncIor rh. n&!! oI lne


..nkl cnde and : *cond tor

3urehenr(a) in Fis +r)


addi4 ' Ee6llnsr
for
flounc neFr b lne r4lius.
s.ond lidE ouEideftc liBl

dEw a smlr cirte ffid.


ft onh.ircl. Toinclude
s
hen allovsic ldr a frllh
aPPriebrcJoI cunj4 cdgr
(d* ro .rds. FinisLinsIor
Rums" on pagt4]). Enr{se
R"b'applfufuMnred6ek.db
dfunganngffifitand|tglclrcwn

c:LculaE rc l.nclh ot ft cir


.urar fnrine on the Pdrem:

ja,shr nir.h
rltr guL,rcriNr

Fis.I 5 Ftmh sear ta) Mh


tb) rin theseanatavrc n,axb
hesean t )Fotdhsntusm,
funireid'ul||ih|ighl9d8lrylh'

our|nrcLoq,! ,h! sift oP.ni!:


qnl]rh'Fi]d'htrL.n{t$

Faudt sean: td) wih r shl s das


toh6d and sew the :lnchina tines

. nou(

Fitr {id, ! ar6ihr.

]fuNngo|'htn6rig.dgld

nhnd

sdn abB

cd 0 open

edq$lbhnenbbelddalsan

(F1g+ 6) .oDRr rhr nouc!

.lE'edb*ailh|en|U|heap'Ea'

Fis.I 7 ra apet a laune ta a tD6


datbn ta) wh* rcrc af tatnes
tbunceieht s@ q tb) sewa
rotnce @ se up'nd nb t ove'
b *an dowhcc b) sew nshl

.,lses,bosk rhc0oume,dghr
sidetrp,ro l!. nght snL orfib
iic #t. wift dehLsid6 rq.ln.
q pi! bbn. .2 Ns bolhand
suv rriFuehanhYG !q' 'o
Mnd cdseoI rxbn.*z o!{
n@!.. .nd dgErirch rhmusn

sse he 4F\ n.oa a 6 ^ary l.)


tabti, etur*n \cn krc@ anid/ \,

I*n. to which it G la.bed


scs a facin8, ngh nd. doq,

lacins to lnE bi.k 0f the fab'


ric dd lb. nou..e nshr 5ide

Fig'4lh+@.epMfu|a|a
the
tuthE (a)attd tud1tudins
tbum b kbto 81,M ptntdbtu *2
ed bothwtthdqhtstu bgetha4
d (c)ph amtsde$ttdh thelutu
ed@d|26fuPove|d]*dm

sidc dM,

ovcr rh. lbm ol a

.In:h.frtdtnent {d Bind
rheldge whena floune lts
on top ol dr rabncb wnich
itn nkch.d 9.w a mrc{
ddc down,ovF 'ne uounc.l
rm rhelindrngovd sll $,o
JloNbes rotheb{k. rnd
*e fsbncunderd* nounc

NorEs & VARIATIoN5

[Nrc L mNdnrLy chaiging, i


noun( ippljetro! lEds gninline
b8linil
E 'o hang&c eoe rdY
on.ithqsful.oficmd|PdiilPh(
rhe ni,ghleub ol r nru(. in tlt

tu. biai of &. noune in tu anrs.


Fn ltom.6 snpli.dh fttrldph
Ldg rcws dd muldpl. dc oI
oounc.sGquR $c chrinins bgcdt
s ofm,iv rhl6 Forshqt sws or
floufts frrh nodeof b tum.l
nrq . *gnnt ol tu entiE cidlar
fldna Pakn my ]le :ll Lha'!
naded Ior oft roq To balane 'llc
sEiilin. on all roE Dd $v. m hb.
ft s {dl, ,lisn thc *sm.ns i!
io\s on 'h rabhcwhm ouhg dr

A circuh noune go.aE ndt


hg rdln6 by m@ulag,ngn,n, ,nd
dc n {fthdt bltrig trprht *:m
line Th. citulrhty ind dcpd oI 'ne
flouE. pdtn, rhehbd. @mpd
mnq ind $. olse ffdh Et ftlRt
oidnal wYds d 6e luins
.dgc.bura smoothb{ oI noun.c
hbnc 4 th. sanlin. B, toBknr.

Fb 41o cdire sutuehat rcpeaE

fN{qD'd{*olippldbq

rt p.'l|+l) | hrh d$orrh.

\rh, r num( \ lrtrsrNtiu


{an h hor rin6h,hecdset0

i Nr,r bdf! md mn. rictorl

.rrdo /rourdb&ub

]nftdul$5ndsddjdJ''3lug

lounc iFid. ar rHd

a$!

lFig 4 r2) rf Lhl dsi

or L(\!dr

r$5n

d.prhorrLrcfoufr rprr Glisl,rLi


((h) tr' [3

{f2)

dipptrBll(

5qn

((O h ris + 1.1).


slishL
du!h,hr

f
t

Afretlnishlneths lsrre edeedus

(r I xn s.! rk Lnuat 'hr


lE{oc rsEs

ri+, i

. o(r irFl

(2t rrr re\5 o{ noun$ ue loo

1|q([ioidtlnrl0u((qljJ

Fie 4.s L) rwo.ndat torn.a


s,ewrbseths lb) aDda?Pte wth
.{ a r4}o(d io,,bJ( .,lgnr .rtr
la,,ldn!(.1!{!

nr[{

^ r,,,r. dsar.tu ,h lr. d(

arot0'0(

'rr|lfus

qPrad !4c of dE nouc

!]) rorLl

beLo\:

rl,! 5!ntnn.s or

6 onr i .]hr( .r (a Ll'!,rp

.r.:rr i n|a

i! i,r

CoNTRoLLED

FLouNcE

PRCJcEDUtE5

Fe. I 13 ta) ra,sel Pabn wth tires


ind.atirs tad tdrore @)lashed
zrd equdry spread lc) Frat p.tdn

ld) cqta@

tome hade ttan

Lonih{Jj'L[!!d4.f

rl,. i!{o ! r0\.m(| ha Ddr

- \ -

ha $t he lasredindsirtad hb

(,

ir rr|5 r r3 + ro.iid

I
s slrl involeG inlom.d guca
rclk Paddd.E lor tlE qid.dine
fi {ill prcdua dishr nppLs,
nodek w!v6. or lavBi Iolds i!
r
dr flodrs .dg. ,ie .{n$sd
vholc
lot.
c,
r
sln.hhriHln
sonsh4e in berw{n addiion
rlly, rh. chanden{ns of thc
inknd.d f1btu .nd dr finnh
applid ro rh. no:dns.+.lill
afccr rh rypEErc dI iny sn'ounr
ot flared rulln6! Id bdoi final.
nins a lonhll.d flonn.e pdtfr
nounc afrer it is appli.d, rlmgc
lh. fl:nns n lnr noiing dse io
Efl<r $. inrcn'idnsoI rhcpnkr
{hiL rhc flounce n han8ine. dr
drau..ndpi! b a nrsu kt

Lik chuhi 00urc6. confrnd


foun.6 rnayte ldrd.d (*d or
Applyrhc$lecEd Iinishb $e

Nolfs . VAR,ATToN5

Finislrhgl.r fum.d,on pict 4:]J,


hurif rhenoune is l.ng ry lron

nounccwonrNork,acorhlled

alEr$. ndunc L ,ppltd Ld n


hrng lor 1t houE b allo! rhe
podoN lo.atd m the bus b
drcoPs.dh n dm\

md d'm

t. s.q the flounceb nd hbrn,


*h.ft lhc piurn hdlats b l.t
rhc nounft *anline nfth the
(d) h Fiss +r3.4rs. +20).
E nounc in r nann( 1Prrc.
pnde for rh. lppltidon Gdd
'd F1g!.r'7. 4 3, and r 9 on

olr ptrricuLr applioibn unns


ihe slshrDd.prtd .hniquc of
patrr dncLdph?m.i connolled
nounrccn bc!*irbly nrEd dth
drtp loL'lslor onep:n of rh. noit
in8 4e and delilde nppl.s cke
{hd. wnh a onhlbd nouncc,
hrd to spdfic l]ordoc oI 'h.
b.rwmn
noari*edserh. sparins
rceul.trY|A conhll.d floun.ecan
b. devi*d 6 hll wih equ,l n,n

oI th. dlhd) and/.rrk{ds.d (tuo


nounfts fisnns our b dresid6

--^-

\/"---\-

-".\

J MahingGode*
L{1ll<rh. pdcn, fim nr
wrcnesid.oI r rabic$$

Goorr
obioun.ed

3cd4l-

sedon ot

Hmdhfthi.f cdgt .............31

gdin, dr m& dt dly on tlrc

the foedis edse r ttli p re. A

rlonrh.poinron rh*n.

PRocEDURES
l For ech sodd, shd . poinr
icide tnepdh or 'ne labnc
$h.n fi. CddaMII b.gtn i6
srnd. The dndne fmn poinr
to lo{s .dsc .quelsthc lmgh
or $. god.r aid inclld6 , hm
. lt ll.I
ic b uBemca, connd sch point b the lower
dgefr'hasftjghtsb+lh.
pclpcidtu|iib&ccdgt,

lowq .dgc lbr sodd i6don


r. udns a l)Ebtud or srdg
.omprs nt ro tf,. lmglh ol Gc
sond. drslt the so,ld p*tem.
.ircle. Esdhac how hu.h 0f dr
.imnfercnccrh. goddshould
addro dr algc whcE tr trll bE
inined rc achrd. rh. dairtd

snaishtlb6. EbHGbEg 'L


wtd'h or lnc godd at ln. low
.'lse (nor thd sld hnrnin8
th.ddrL dlloauEeE.
{ba 16). Add, ah ,lldw
ina ro th. {nl8hr sids ol ihr
.ftulnscgmbl ((cJ s (d) in
Fis. 5 l). Thep*Em is Eady ro

lb) sen qenirs, kb dtich (c)

3. Curour llc sodd f@n &r'i.


lolobs ft. pd.d
of .he
parm or ic turtd ddin . Irr
c@ts ais of a sodetis slwels
mrhcd b ln. nFrghqrain of
fte Lbric. on ft. goddl vbng
ddE,ryk 6e poinr sLc lh.
sid. rannn6 mer ar rhedp.
the sid! sntinB

angl. f6n th. lqs edse


ro th. SDdetlp.dt d Bch
sideot rh. slshlim ltund
(7.t.n) squueor olE|ea

5 u.u.

. Inb a 5a oFned6 sodd


bng'nwi'nnghdd6
toS.thq and .dse nrtchjng,
ph E*ch dr |astnncf, oI
ll. sb ,b.r fte op.nh8
ro rhepoim ol rh. godd, ,!d
ph oe sidcot dc god.r b
on std. of lh. op.nin& ses
dr! lowr eds., bscksdrhbg
{ rh. polnl Arkh rheo$d
sidcot lne godd b lhe oth(
sideof dc op.ni4 wh.n
frnGhd,fte brcrk b.N.m
rhegodcrslu ald th. sn
abov.shotrldb. tnpftAdbl.

((a)andO) in ru. t 1)

b. slill trp @ lh. honanbl


stircl 3t rh. poinr. Rend.
rh. bctinsipull dr ninforciq nu.r b the bck;

,llo*mQ. Mrh nght std6


63.thq])inmgthdr.

porh!of rle ErntodnS


fte squrE, nrchin. snGn

sm b th. goddl point.

sw down fte o$s sid. ro

andbGG onesid. oI fie


god.r b dr dd. dl &.
op.tus!pbddbdn &.
oths sid. of fie soAd b
dhh ,nd @*
lh. bas!
ing {(c) rM (d) in Fi& t 3)
rrc $. god.rbs.m auow.nc.
bwlrd fte frhnc 4 ln. 6p of
'h. sddd. ,$out y (2.rcn) 6
2" (5d) b.td Ac pdbt, dtp
op@ (d Dd c) i! Fis. 5-3).
sodd md rL f,bn. on rhc sid.s.

NorEs 6 V,4Ri,{TIoNs
alrhoqh dingukr god.c ,r
Eul. godeGa wide 6 r nru cirle
.nd 6 lar8ea a tull orre {e I*i
bl. wh.n .xcQdonilly ltrsh,ltu
wid. s'a.r oI labric with $fffci@t
Uy b nmd o$ and dwry fFh
nddng .ds. s L prcj{c u.l6
fie lor{ .(l3. is eron3dedwho
dr sodd E ddsld (Ftg.t4).
lflhdgodd t wld. andlong,
brne dMppliotioD ror 1+hdE
b.fon L.minc to alow fte lt6 oI
rle &bric b enl. lI fte hbdc te
eii andloosrryMYa &e eodd is
lhbL b $s lron i6 satr u.l6
alov.d & sftGh out htorcln*!
don rLry tn. sodd rloE Ib p.br
for 2,+ho!6 bdor sdng tnb th.
aIF bitlubs ln. oqaneo<Ld
wltd pLdg , hd ftrtudt
fdr sod.6, bBidd lh. d.se of
cuse at fte ll@dns edsdoI fi.
o{ th. lib'
soda de che.tsttu
n.. and thz .fd dI m .ds. finish
on dr. swe.poI fie no*. "EdAe
hrshjls rE Run6' @ page4l
dc.nb6 p6{biXc: Fd Llc.
sle sodes.dd b thse choicc a
de.pq,sinsl old flar hn,6d
.rclnd rheoft, p.rh.p6 Mth '
slbbte srill:tue l,id iGid. rhe
rhe hndlzt ^i4.de. B panlir to sod6.!t s@ E a squd,
!$illy or lrgh., d.lidt r.nric. on
comft or the qure b{on6 rhe
poi ol th. sod.q.:ch sideo{ the
q@re .qu'b rheld$h oI ft.
gddet.Fdi so sid6 dr th. squre,
$l.cr sn .ds. tDish ihsr lsvoF a
sofi,nuidno.r (F8.5-5).Afrer
A. squd l(F3 to r floatinspobt

*lIre

golld. on. h,lf rhr hbdtd

'hc sdn JFE Gis t0) Al'ludr


J nod{ sodd iumlida rurng
rod{rhe pftdutrs. r hsx
dd strusc Borhndc ota mocLt
sodd tJll oo thc bhs or th( rabrn.
Ihl!.Ir nq h{siq b !4 Ituh 'h.

the pdht at a skh, @)nave the


slashkredhelowgellge'il
(b) tMte the setun* tude

F'955'squa|egafu|c|eal$2
handk'chb|edqerhefufuE.t

Fb 5.s. a ctu 2'nack sa'tet Ftuth


nr *Rnlrns

lxiihe .!xr ItuE lhe

dde l.) tn&dt6 the paht whetea

u!l1hlPcd5l,5hP$nrirsnMn
poi

brr plic bddrslishmJ


rmli,$
on dircor slrn6
Aodd
sd{ring rris.p.on (rrg i6)
arl,.d.ubu, add rcundhs dr
Poi ol rrr sodd rqmrLas r{
aaD arLo\2n..-s r dr! rdp, bur rt5d
is i dnririvt

h{nR of'ht h!!.

tun. dh! lodd oPfl,i"ss d rhr


aunNs bN:rd Ni pa !n6 ifr.
sl,npsr sqld hh,j. lion slidrng
btliirl rhe i6{do! rdrs (rig 5j)

needd6e dirpns to acemndate


eaet hsetlifi fhe bundedth al

c.l:aT9

Systematic
Folding

,\

$ Pleating
. Hmd-Fo@.d Aaonlion
PrtsingPrlats............ 39
sehmins Fkr .nd hd.l
. MiniA(ordronPledns... lll
fleG .... . ..........
.............s0
. (nife Pl.tu . Bd Pls6

Pl6r bpnikhinc . ......... 9,


pka.ng . ..........
........
9,t
unddlays.......... .....94
PeiL.rP1a8.... .............94

. IIF+Fold rnd a{r.Fold

. Rorrb{kcdddce Pl46
r carridc. Pkac... ............r03
Prc@dursfor b4 Pinch,

PRrssNc hEAr5

Nor6 & \'.riarioB... .. . ....112

Prcclduro...... ..........
. .. . S1

' se.In Pl.a6 .'.''.'.''.''',','',','',s3

PLEATBAsrcs

6ntid toor sonerrmB het,


nsn, rnd prG$r iE 6 muchs
psi dl plar prpennon * n*dle
md rhnd ai othd dna, 3rahbs rinishd 'n. Jdb,Pr6dins I
dErul am'sm.nL dI EUins rotds.
Thc! mon ro pEdry rh. toltls
oI n't
plnial ])leb db dElP,
lsrins"nd
.Ma dranpDpd $hs df
dE coturs on r rbh. Aftq hsdns
lh. plar amnsmenr, , gdde
prusing d,h 5ten nek6 $. pE,
lmhly c6a For fi. ffnrl hsrd
pr6h3. s bud sud,e i5 doE
.m.idt fo! tal!. apptodons ftd
N..dlefom.d plc,rins .ns
$e ffiw surtc of r nguLr hin8 bqd. PhpaEa abl. ropMd1
elefuqg',..'.'.'''''',','',',tt3p./r,-g-hy6
of btihk r d brels
covmd \1lh shding, undqDrd
sirh dutuun roir.lI sing i ngure rDrins bofld. hick ir w ssii${
i hbl. or ch.n ro strppd @fisns
ToeE[ihPrinting.rnN.
,[ piE,nd b3sds lnEds frcd
rhe fi6i snup of plac b b.
p6ed. Aense rh* pleib d! lnr

ertridSrPlE6................101
cobtetplas.. .. . ..........106

'dshrnins. and,rEnlry into c


.oftr

s.h.rddge Ple6........107
Dur.d .inddg. pl.aB .. r07

Nob rhis ch,prr bqrB vith


B,ASI(J,hdietd by r graybmd
loskd undqEdr d. nl.v.nr

posirion. To pnYEll th!

oucr roldsrioE revins ,n rnpn.,


i! on dc r,bic benuth, phrt r
sdD orhrcm !sp.i .!t slishrr
vidd rbn Prar dcprf,dd lohgd
ih:n plst r.ngr\ iBide rhennd*,
lold of dch plL b herEed

tum 'h.Irbn. to r]t o1h{3i

p($ ddh '!Lo x soluriondoar

( rl[rLerG Dddnr on top

unpE$edpllrb, Ng t]t foldsh'o


hxngiIg.oi,iEn8c'h.foldswl'iL
phd,g rhds$ ro x P.dd.d
Load iab pLnn'ngraclor rolds,ir
!ed!r(
sddc t]t xEo8cmdtr b!
Novd sloq4laborc'h. sunmcd
nE Iabln Aro{ ro cool rnd drr

HfMMiNG F!,4T I

P,4nrrArPrE4rs
whci rrl!:hs lmgdrv 6bnc,
Gbn. .rc al\qs snuiEd mobh'
sivdr uDle$rb.xppln{on rnd
I l.dilB ednBtn.ir nmkeir
uDrvonLibr.,Nc rosr joinie
ronnirr nn PhaG,plRrtjoinins
ssn dn rsu Iolds,or cmrtEd
Rndfdi,l pldr prt{m piobl.ix
! r! hmoi8 th.n .n s!
oprionr$h.nndlfsu, rh.*ao
rlto{rie (l) Pre$thchnlrft,ld
{an rlloNrnc opcDand nr Im'n
rh. loN( eds.h,hc d.pd oLrlr
hcn Iur up Lh. h.n andnith.
ofrh. hmro treeit rromcdnhtr.
(2) lkn, s.h ptce oI trbri! ft{.
'lD*NsI!(sbge'hei

on ro rht n.xt sroup oI plu.

mrchhs 'h. h.n ldlds.srdr


Fom 'h. plg,s Nrh ihcjoi,rins
h disn.d ro in i,rs rold Inn
rht *nn allolanesdLsddrur

{r0.t0n) long, to tFund fte Iolds

b
cdL.dgcottu *nrllownrs
rlr dqnh oI rhehem(Fis 6 z)

!tus ir our,aDd5prsd'h. drfrp


.ldh

Nd

'hr pk$.

Pi.$ widr a

hor ron und rn! dol|l tsdry hollins rh! ilon ftnl) h plac to 5$J
n$m dN! 'hou8h 'h. rolds

Lhcycool \14rco,ll rht Pl.ac hav.

rh a{ d ifipdrh!

hsh

fLA T TLEAIS

E-ilri
lRersb"PhaPrcis

on Palee0)

Fit 6 3 la)Anatnnr at a tat Dteat


tb) rwes at ibt prats.Aran@nenE

.ea .^d tb) dip abave he hen.

i.rrs, 'h.r pl{6 \l,fr hnrirc


r'r,rtroa
q! i| run ir! lil)
L tr.n 'r'fr iacddr LlL.
fhrs
L ! i n L n L dh n

iin

rhn Llffhrj

D) o rttr.ilir Lh! rlNu

q,f rdiar.rr.01,rn

adjalor pLlaGLoguD , eu

dr d6ieirl

Fb 64 ta) rwa ba' da6 srh aDtetandhn{ rattuede*tfthed


tb) tnvetuddeal withBtaasepaht bM
lc) tuite pteab k rcteaspainb tawetedtndsidy

rl.A!

poN'

oIlh. ri nn. told {!h pltr

lirlr rosdhrL

b.'!.k (ri)

Mo larc!.1hbf.

'lnD,lr

sid. rd ph (Ndr 'h{ r

rL

5urlgNdgrj'nf,[uout'
{!h pler (hE DW rold L a o
odd B!Bi' Eil, 5lisordip

btr\*o'|dldsdplkdi.Nllnts

soirdivo (t rr rrs 6t

nn.h l.nldN ((b) r Fis 6 u


Fs. 61 Fenonde pbd natkhgs la)
td tulet tatds,btukertihestd ptacnent ha

lb) Fd nteed platshs

Noffs

[nr.

a a.nent tha tusted losethet lb) hEred ptealeentetedand ptnred ahel


r) badins the taa hes toselhetznd b

t VARTATTcJN5

box ,i

DwFd ohr!{.

pl.rc 6Pleic lt

ir i!o) d{P

," (r i.n) n,drlftf

(ar

ror lrh.orci loLd)\rh.irr


naLh ('h! mn{ rold) dtd{ma

'a{ 0 sm) t@n ttu tdlts thrctsh


pain|'andlh|aughfua]ayx|a
.@se the pte'l tde penaDedt
d snn

bd[

(Rdf

xrnDlrs

qq\!r

tl|f

n, | $'Ds tsh,

f1)ldfli. h.n nro rh. fioarns

(d, rkarroLd.
o) F,rs+rir.h
(.1)E(itssrrl,Lun 'ht tup

d'!i P{hal Plcdi u, p!3. sol


mcs as
h,d lrtr oe ti!:r of
.s cltD'oo

(( L b

shhiif,trg

Grturedsfuhtri{ oo prBr6

rnD'kngrhr{,

sndurus rlfr si. \[h ,hc\mull


d oDrop(.i* 6 tol Do,blrtldi
lIPh'rlls'!341,|sLl(LLLIIlol

hon:onhLro\s otpl?,nor tanq


lo|(ncLrb( (Iin 6trr) ro prcvon

UnI.,lar'L ov .lEnseir dr
hLflt !i'H. r Lhrbrd! or h\ {trJ
b4(o

is

idF(r

Dftr fold5

fs-rr+i,srh|
t h'i! Db h!
lorL.r,hd sol {!ord ,hnd df

plurds \nL 6'n codi,uou' pLlia

,\klL hpnnfnDs. .nn r]I ta!


olrh. rMsloLds (nod

ldN{o

rt" (^.nn 22" (56on) drli


163lu) lnlLl' ol i plctr( n,i's
rh. Mdrh olrrhL,n f lrD qr\c
pla, dt|Lhbr'r'(Lod q 111"
o 5.n) \fnr,n 'hR rtrnrdi$.

F96.9Dhgara]t@lleh|ngha|

Dolrhdo,,i/.drkdlrlglrro

Fa611|,ahEde|lFfublh

rrt Pd ter rhdq

r a 5iiPh

lo{ pktrB No a kns,h ofhhr.


N n h o uP
l i o ] D a n d r gr | j f l f i
A

Fig6laexp]ealswrhlhelwa
fupled'andpba|dephsslaqgered'

It

t
t

E
:

h--a

PARTIAL PLEATS

b<nve.npl.it (pl.rt,l.pfi

pls

qrrced.ild61ftd) (r) tngrh or


p.inB.There ,rc eo kbds of Pdia

edg. ({) r.ngd oI i dd lloE

rnr or bd p *E rorm.d b/
kwin8 spe.hllr dBrsisd ple* sen
riotr roedheii Inve*ed p sE
Iom8d by ss is uidtrL:}s beeeen
5pa.1 y dsiqnedple! *ctio6

Ad,l r $onl pd(.d rohn md(


lay tb:t dupliln6 tu und.dold
.rEEid
al dr sid6 or adjoinn'e
pler *.dons ((t) in Fie 6ll)
(l) Dfi e panrn ro! th. shap.

d,gh y longd.nd muchwidd


$rn rh cltour 5h,p., 'mo an
dfknil], bo:, or
'iEqS.nc
irvtrtrd plrib (3) PGirion the
rtrroutovd $c tolddplerE,

PRocEDUREs

oFn ind pmdl Iol'rins guid&


(Fig.6 r4). Avoidlo.idng pler
un,l.t{olds bo dd* ro thc sid6

En,blish the folowhs s6urc

(.)

(t) cur s n$rpld{dtus


requircd,curhg abund theou!
lirE oI 'hep,,rn or lolLqin3 a
rm.inedf & patrcn.(2) Mln
4ht sid6 h.ins. 5N 'hc pl6'
dioE bgei\{ oP.n xnd
sprad our o) M6uic 'lrc dePth
ors.h ptr rolsrc : mdch
wh.n foldingmd uniry se
Dleb in $e d6iEd rlfrrton
lzsE sch pkd dibugh sll la]es
(4) Ar,$ t[ppng sn' a[ov@.6
blrtrLsepoi'6.Pr6lhc
sim sl(Mnc6 lbsr ln. Plst
qresioc opcnand[aL Itrshtlr
PEs ln. pl.r' rards(Fig 6 r5).

(b)

Fis.6n3 la) PaM tora Bdiatl'..at


at bax+teatmdenfu. @)Patun td m invetudpreatunddtayuDtdupt

rr Nm loll!\Lrsr! qtrLDr

NoIIs

t VATiJIT]o\5

0 ar! or rfr

nta a cttort tseeFs 611tat lhe

rLPlord

(tr5

nirgs .h9s'nlhas,ry
of Lh! oi&ls(rois

&Ddnr(Lr

{d] P|d !\LtDsjdi llrB d ]!)

h]D.\ronsnJ. ur hx{.,lr

ltr urd.{o

d' ?Lrcidf fuudDn ri Ll

l!.1

i {

r,j

i:

PLr.A.Ts

PRocTDUREs
FoRBor.
PrNcH,PiPr Olt6aN,
AND ROIA/1CK

C,{RTRD6E
PrrArs

lLerld13{L.L!dud]rLlL!tr]P

rdrc.rprr5,r!sliLq

(r) For s.h pLta flaren rh!

-.'l'

(2) rops'n.r straishr:m$ rh.


h,* dr lht p1d {h.c inEp.itu
ry *R,n ods, o. hcr 'h. mil(
toldsb fte lrb!. b.hind xnh

Fi1.6.2dla) t@dins tu'ted tu


@h$a|hesilao|echp14|
atawm. (b)senln$ dtugd
tue9thets6N 'tq i6t atu he

b. ol, ft ngh sidcorlhc 6hn!,


dnide rehudhs nrd$ 'l'!
bp Db pl.{ allo{R,resscna
rukrl by spr.6 bdw..f pl*

b.r rlr plcxruid{folds virh


hllrd endrhs iridble o! 'dp
(r) Ftr alh p1.a,diidc thc

lin6 ontnhersideoIu.h
p{rl.l,h.lold

(2) Pushins'h.

c{rD& nnLgl,tilNn toN dr


,opro Rpointnishnyrb0! $r
lo{s .dgcot rhe|kn hadrog
tqnal plers. rq! on .nhd itl.
ofineCdc[Plgtd.lmcdbylhe
|jlB n' dr.lop.dsc, radi the
loldtd smngan.nl ro tht Pdn.

clvlhthtIl8hlsiltdlsjd..
s?mlin.s on lnhr5id. df
och pldallo\d&
rogdhs

or Lhcrhr.c phic b.Iorc rcnoe


iq8 Lht pins. G) Ai tu b*q
sr.ur rl[ lbldin8 rilh nuchhr
nrchjns Lharro$! <h1ghrour

rhr loldsrhar\ill beerucrcd hb Prei&'he Pki,s


pt@t: (d) erd be seIndary sean
lb) Re.brd h. pteat atta@rce, cs

{l) Forach pkRr.suhdivide

em o ln. frrrchcddd {olds,


or hand h.k r lolds ksdh.r

ldngr! rtul prnlkl ro, rh. pn

(2) collapi. Lh! phd allqsrtq


crrlng 'h. *.oidr\ *an'

Fp dse. ucr thc LwosJFs


rsdhr G) ceruEg 'h. loo*
nikhir8 nnislr (ro'r all rolds
inia the pbats ad Enaw he pins.lc)
ptaatina at ld) hand ta.l 2t the x pasron.

la) Estabtitha pn s8n lb) k dd

'ng t fr$ polysE ffb.lffl|, or


i"*n inb rh. pltd an$ruc a
rclLot ado[ht or odd sll|.iins
Ite. u.k dE qlildr. at rLcrop
rnd bs.. b 'ht rabncb.hird ir
Fis 624 ra tm a taut.dd pir* pteat:ta) centu aN hnon thdphartad
creaseat he sides.tb) fuh 'rE sde cBA hstdab k3 qimry ean
t be bas at bP Ph-w 6 @t^a^d

ddeIninrrysam(Fc 6 26)

Fig6.^t"awedqdrp|@6'

,,_i

{l).u@chPkr( h,gccu*
'hnds,ndk rhcL\iid dlBr b lnE

,4b b@ heqer

pbeE dnd 4.o,e

ba nnr t ) td.r dt D4

at Fa -

fi{ pann.l &r s4 (2) Holdins


nn uP*hr, oll:p6e rh. pkii

( I ) Fol .ich plEt, 0!&n rhc

corr pld h rh. rop.4q hck


e rro inns rbrdsre&. ptur)
ssn. Fis{

'nl ebrr foLl ro rh. pnmry


rtam. ['ng{ q4* thc rNo nev
(2) Psh 4.h of rh. side q66
.rarinc tour .qual-si-d ple6

ct!

il lotds bdoft

remvins rh. pins o) Ar theba*,


haDds.k rhmugl ,n $ne pla6,
ddbs rhctoldol $e 3mlbr
plet d ,ir@Er (r) runins
rh. loldsof ln. ddPla6 dosr
b lne hednr& b& a.h ouEr
lold rorhepdmry san ard.

dn.hinc r]]c0ngd{n6.d 6E ro
rhePin.*am.Fingc Pns tu ,qy
roldsd dredd6. (3) tuDor dc
Pns,rr6ng No inrrio. pteb
rrh rom I suPpodfd! 'hdde
q'<ior pld trhnh .unts a6und
foldsol dr strftundiq Prdro

$de {olds b rh. pim,rji m.


F,ncs prt* ,he Dewourr tokls
(r) sdr E d.{nbed Ior rhe

(l) Foi ah pleq dili lc Gc lold

Mrh x b{ orPiG ${ p*a[.] ft!


{old. c) PBh fic Pin-sm doM
@$e Pnnary s.d, sPloding rhc
pratr a]loNad.s bdR.n lni Pi!*rm dd d. Pnmlry sn dr ro
'he sjds. Thr Pl.r6 rom.d ar &.
nd5 dll be Nrr s ddp 6 $e

sean, tnd tb) stand the pteatrhih E.tab@ be @


ateatatbwarc
lc) FemE the DLa tdt the s!tuc eat dnutu b thc tuad,o aad
stEr6 he oubt tdrs besitu tu tha'
sean.

nid'h spi.c Thelm31hof th.


,fthd hbrn btur! 'h.

t. rbnh lne n6'dg rdgr of rhc


lngk rold hon. To h3ru, 4rch
LrInwEbaredor'g'.Jn']'.rt.

l, IsdD,e dr hbt. ftqrtE

b,a of ach pla' b 'h. rabrt

Norls & VAxL{TroNs


con,parinsrhr prcj(rng rleas
snul.bo: pl.ebrn $.1.*r
,limensionrlNilh doubledboi

prc$nr 1hc
hny it doelr spaced.
Rdlbr.kdnii'lg.plu6.whnh
look like snall. rsr. pipeo,Ean

pns.d or unp'sed orions. pro.


j.dingpr.,r hLrunnEsedfton
rh. spnid ol rh. folds,rg rd
$rckc r lol(Gbdq(D h.adins
rnd heminlo flo{iru rcsdarnr
gou 'ne anngene

pls6 oD hc dplcd Ior laish Iull.


o$ h 'hc hrnshc fabri. b.lo{ rhc
j.crins plcb sn bc .oDbinedin
rhesme h.a,linsro Er) d. nrucd.pdloL lh. lotdsnl.adb)

kEPddli\

loo$ly wappedan,l pinled rcund


thehmglglJbdcs6Ewhd

orsan pLca6oar Dccda,ldiioul


hlkins x' 'hc rop. b$id. rhe prima'
q {Rn rc pbem 'h. pl!-r' Iorm
ion f,on flopprlg loflad or Mb
blhs froo sid. ro sjde Fjns,PEs
'4 rd iqtr!8
lne 5hcMd
Iolds $rd6 $rt da'gdndr

oeJ l!bn. { long6 rht ta'$r


cho*n dqnh ol rlrepl.d hcd

ro bc hompnuos, sams Fhins lenghsof Lbric shoull hll oo

r h6dLn3s {i,lc s $. sby br_


'rhing 'lt rol, ro rh. backrreis
slfcr drcrmL'.k drh inkt{r'

PRoCEDURES
FoR
CARTrrDGaPr,EATs

lidrh srre or the narr*!{drd

rc

Th. pkar elloNinrt.an bt subdi


idcd inro 6 ,nmy roLdsasr|r rabft {ill sunah, aDd rhc folds can be
!a&d Lndtp'h a \dl s'lmng
duDs6 rhr. fold pinchpls6 inro
3orl.! Phn6 \xrh rhe slo in!,
Idlds bdve! 'he plRE u!,rtuhed
d rhc rop. polyc{d lib0n fora
rhe pleft dur n$ Irom tht pimh

vidrl, rcquncdlor rlenlng

(rd rdllbrtk aairidB. adc, dr


ro"Prcftdurcsor plgt l0r)
hbn. b mnch aller ir js plakd

mnch N'h dnl|ll.ariq!pln


p.rpcndicuhrinnlin$ on dE
nay Dnr! p.rpendi.ulxrnnlhLne
lo{s cdgcor iht tunlrck (u*
sBh) (t od (h)h r,e 6 2q)
AlisnDB Lht rop?dgror rlr hb
Iir 0 th! rop.dgc oL$. nrti
I)in mrch sch nfuhils lh. on
,lt fabnc b iE con$PordDS

Intte nl.Risphnnd for rht hr


plene,l hbric wnh a ,loublt- or
.u*ing ptujr.lon for ach
oI hbric oi parq ro a plar

stqle'foldhenlohi!8,lk.b

.i.x,in3 , Packcdm6 or fordsdrt)

: rln.k .dgc (t) in Fie cro)

lo, ofrabn! ro akuiatc fi. amoun(


pld a br suip dr tubri. 6 dnered
jn dE lolloMng,xnddu.h ror a.
n.sur

aodrnglr,Tddnlhcp|66.
0 ) md rhela oI dr fsbri. on th.
hsd,ng rrbalk d$ nrc unironr
s$ ol lrrridR'anrly,Fted do6.
Thetlishre bd{en rncdoEets
&EdplnoI r]t plsb {2) tun{u
dy 'nud ii andourof $. do6 in
ech w Gig.ell) md saftci Fd!
ins $c tabncdo J.ely r,y.rtd
rolds G) sundingrhpke6 on tntl
sri . {ill. rqq n}: tuk 'heEn
ot och loll rd,rE 3ry 116raroosrhe
roP.rhenI tht borcn Gig er2)

l
NorEs I VairATloNs
rs,sd or a n4i atigntdb $.
roporrh. Dkxrd Lbnq bbn. m,y
h. plaEd ro r,\c lowd .dgt of hbnc
du' c{.nds abs dr plrd{d hb.

J'_v--!/__\f--]-^

1-\/-\--Y-\'.-/--\.--\

rords
ol rhrdhP. ro doP..$chb
nc NaDe pu pl' nui be
ntrlh widd $an rhc$kMllokd
p.r pl.{ o! lh sbr Tl[ $rr
shoud b. rpprupii,crr drP eid
rq@rinms arrdl.Pt(6,
dr spk h.ed Plss shnnk b lne

\!id$ ot oft *in L\nr lurs a dEp


{ne} beMcn rhc bulging .!16 on

rig'342'T*ingheb$alb'fud.
adddgeplealla]d'basbybe|m
Touru.rh ,h. sP4insoI $e lotds,
n*k rhr shr M'rr nrc dortedsuid-

d6isn.d 1optu}d i lirle o. : lor


dder PleaEsby hbnc stbtrld hc
dromr. a wdr 6 funcrioni.
soJrernils. PrcdsrarLhb ,
dEpeiGrad ol psj.dhg our{ar,l.

ri. pl.4ed hbri. reded 6

[D6. a dor iDr $$y

agehdndg.el*|prces
adrd .c'|rilt. ,r.d6 icn like
' dsfiL ii rheanndgc drSor):
Theplcr6 xn fo@Edon g:uscd
"Ga'hcdns
Merhodson Plse4).

idrh

jnb a

rdld Gnridse pknrd hbnc bm.d


o I sq Prcj4s ous?'d bdorc
tallhc in rivLh for& ro rh. floniDs
qte. rh. drhade Gbcn.r,e Nhm
,ht 5br erdEhs : solidlom. I dr
hbnt tskB ninandrh.pteb hnty
dep. l[ft.d anndg. pleaam *lI.
5qPorirga shd upnghror
.xhd rikc a shdf hor rh. ray

t! 1f t! '

'i:

T
*

t',1-

!
I

a-t

t---:-7-

AccoRDroN
PI EATS
d brdr, Ganns proicc ig P 4$

ro ds spred r ran r1 { 3!m)

BmF) rrr

mc.h s y formed

HAND-FoI|I{ID

AccoRDroN
PrEArs
form D-, ford. bdN!o,r,.

,h. str?,ghrr!!:. dl r iifi inP oI


rordsL sb.rPlf qrrel
.uLstrlul!,hf

rmuDr of hhn.

qa{lh.|oLdlthljluo

(b)

NorEs r VARTATToNS
r/ (1r..t
spreidofor. n.o'nir

plc{

Ds Lhr rcp ol rh. pk&d

nkhr.

or sulL.r D dtp(hs

rai-

f.n m,Lrhelt @rc

nid noni

m.h o{r sch h&k

j|31|ELow{rdaldIthtnav

o lJgrr. or lbld md ss 'hEhld


plq's
Rlrr tj.ssnrs lid cslh
roLdsnat be pdmorLr rix.d
Fig635AIfuianpha*'|i!h|ly
!(d

on pld.d

hbrf n l]ql

rh.in ?nd on, roldhBLmptrb{I

n. ts accordion-rleftd. th! trn'lr n

'r!n'a x
'h! tuLfr (R.r. h
nloddns PLiterod pagt 126)

foLdr. rht nar wrh rqudDudl


spd)s Ger( b'8ukd crtddgi

ai,lt

cahldled2|lhe|rpwhanback
cBaseszG|Jpsn.hed|aaslay

oplmDr\.lhLo\'fleJFd|

FoR MI 'rPRoaEDURE5
AccoRDIoNPr E,{TTNG

hp eJse ill.qt

h)

rhtad vakf i,h\ 'loubll


lold rD rhd LB insid. rh.
pldinsrhr.d
rrong rhrad or !,d ruo'h!,ql,
rhc folds. rrk thEplcrtr 'n'o .

Ld'!,

sdr jdnns rnn |tcs

(Fis 6i6i

riqnmqr

gf (F.rrins[Dg

Fg64T,Handsrkhingasbyave|l

Nrorls t VARJArro\'s

(I) cu,a iDpe,)

o f r h .r l , r ! l r r r n r nr r
rrl F0[,-iic

lEr

d]! L?{ rtr\

rrl (ur plrr hbn! Iq

'h|old'r]IDfil]][\lllld||p(
'lKiJ

trol']h..\|nd

sF.|].!l]'l'1\luLrL]s'
rfd
cr rlr df N.r

.rrnd

ribn.

o! Pra. 6 )

Lh. r!rJsorr(hinm

rl.i

h tonn.d

h\ hind foli$i,sagrrdor

t!I(b.[oAlshsmdkhg.oo

--

WRINKLED
PLEATING

|ab,jcliqh|lyarcurdabnaml&
Ddlod) nur he

onnft.n

PRocEDLTRES

sP ild .nr rft hLn. ! l,n, r E

\!r rib( hps f ir n0)


\ijd! \rnd 'rrr
n l'iir)
fi.(
unl rLre,. .d hbr
r (jrrd! !o!(r (.r 6.I)

t ro irbilie

brcoinnickphring.
innft' ofirs PrePJcarnN
Modiri
cnors.l.ng.lhrtosul'
Fdr

dbr

requics (F0 aPnrnrne


ric fo! hroomnickpl.

dionrk{i

NoTEs& VARraoNs
suchn5.hnu sirr(and iishrNoglir
!non. rrtc bci Loqrhlr.d
pl. ingn{hdd5 Ih{ roounr oI
rld

ng: EnhE.

34.on pr8qLrl )
ro\5 li$Rd of rhnd srhfti,g
hbn. imnnd a a..h trLm!.{r
doN oI drc mlLd li'bLn utrboutrd.
hnsd ofbindrDs.ft t|t rorltd

rullD$s apl)'opnaE lor r|[

Addqins tshrLydh .ord rorlr


raldlE rnd nnring I rcc.du{s ol
ait{ PLdi,s.rhc sids ot
hmdnntr'pl.lrd hbnc m nor
tunnflbn

pr.arcd fabic \!i

n| tls

Pre'i3 rh. LIooNftk ndhcd


pioduc .i4E5 rod cnss rhn

llered hbnc into r ioll rnd son


Lod{lrind kccPh a dntrs o.
\i ru o $c rtasa orwn r.!i
phrhs. bu1rhcpllas cn l,eEsr
N rtphLri

coin.idc u]]l rh dh4ml foud


lar.nD8-bu subsequnrN!*$

lhe p(paErh

and

DoUBLECoNTRoLLED
PLEATS

$rh rht rnieL n&s wLs Lhe


plscoism@sbbiledr* I,
fte hlds orrdl<dc ,pplrotu's
pL'I $nh rh..ooFntion orllm
thbtu
m LskJ 'o a tul 5hr

ndmmg* mirc|no\'td
slowlyibo\t rhcsurl&eof rhe
hbnc AlloN b @olud dry

PRocrDL'RES
l. sdd , pld qpc rh{ euiB d'.
iir sids of rhd labdc,tbloqng
dE lloaduE d$qibed for Lhd
9?. orplsn$ (Prrl pl*b.ir

Nor6 & V,4&ATJoN5


Prd4 $tu'b6 trDt rcquiE F,
onadiaclt
td6 (ll PkaGronned
alsE of rh! hbnc. bEing Lh.roldc
b lmEl8e

2. sFLiliI r pktu d hoth ods


'he pk,,td
Eirh{ udslhrnar
$!dg'lt.dgcbmd|trPice
of hbnc, or nrbilic rirhdur
u sLus befoth"nd, a rpprc
pni,. Id rhc tibnc ,nd t[c
rquiEmms of ft parricular

{ d hgk

,u.k wh.n rh br.k lolds o{.a.


ddst 0 h?nd lonfd erodidi
plos aE nreline5drhed tu r lim
pl.rmg .nrbl6 dl supponinB.
dim brcorudct, o .dirddn

plu!

srrlu spRd our aid buncd i! L\c


.om'g.ios s'gs6t smock,de
$niL. rrLiliins. 5hiIt rhed!&non ol
|ht|oldldr\nnk|6aid[u!rlt
N.&rk lonnl rr.ditrs t !!iqur,

D rh. ftnre

(1) Plub lod.d on on. .ds. ot ,he


hbric qirlr tolds $ar dwindlc od 'd
ndhhsn'hcorFTiEEdgeIh.
hisd panrm dd ne sl6h.d al
pl.n looioDs. IoLlonins th ilEnd'
d diedion dr 'ht kilds h.n' !Jg.
,d rd+, and spreadro dlow lor i
ptrdu ctold4 dcr,!s 6h Gq
diRdior adrptablero pl.ahs.
dc! b "r4re E+. 6r'hsmg,

pidous narkinss or
e! $iho
dns plarErioD. rlsf & bp ligt
ol rhr dFLhs rah.n b dr bp .dcc
olx nrh nrlla. sdflmed n*

wdrkinstum rtu topdo\r. pullup


a lold Nirh $e poin'of 'h! n .dlr.
8lotrid rlr IohLto rlrcsq srh dnrl
{pRiakd bkksiithes Pusbrnd pdlL

and opposi@rdsecarhdne,_
Nors ard v{i'idc, on pag.17)
Pnlscdfoldr,.cr!ftiion plcft, and

rlrclolds.r-inn rl,c lmsln od

siree,r,lsNhame Plerd 6bnc is

Th. foldsoI @5vd pLd6 pufi w


shtldd
ow. sdlunddlb
iru or hdd hut b$E.n surioDrrr

in oic din.don or one.dgc si

01ds6. or thc alc or plst.

rhEloldsithec{E!t${dr+e
ol'ndM{.igh'dKlphb
kNs

thc ds of rhc Plols c

To dnpq rtu lol& ofl,q.s:I.


aPplidions mus b. lDtonhl

tlrlplsb nduc uch sidcof a


squaoi tian8leof hbncvirh rht
rords.thm brst $e PrerEde+6 b x
s,tur or msBe Th. pufltd f,bnc
m y b . l c f tn i s , o r r a n b . t d c d
doM hh r @rirE s{d dr(ac
andgrco*s sldi hmMlg ftlc b
'Furu\line or pogcq).or nutrcd
inb bi{uib (rcLr b "Bscuirt oo
Pase2r3) vdtuli us Pdlh Pre's
for labncduddn i blsdldrrlrc

pl6'in3 d,y b( adjanL b orc a

rcnnrN6 hhnc inloa Jirr(tdL.


fro Exdle6 drtk 6 r pl.r' 6m

Mln ror plctud lcngin or {abdc


undlit rcrch6Lhcbl!c' mcisrir

rhc rolrsolfd.d pr.a6 ft 5hbi


Itredhb prmaDcd.immoshlc

t.xnlr lor s.un!: l'onddirionrl

or l(N tolds,lxing pushspLaGin


rcn-plerlik djrcdioc.Forqam.

rhro{h 'h. rld'{ lRlfr b Uri,ts


r sno.king Phrd on pasr D6)

D O I J B L EC O N T R O L L E D
P LF A T S

II

i--

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'1S<-:--i

1r\\\\!r\

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ti.

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BAsrcs
SMOCKTNG
FAarucREeurEDFoR
SMocxrNc

hbrn ututrd lbr ! nno.kDs pro


j.. rh'! a hi ly (lnLk gunl| ltr

sp{.d tr'(6nr)!pn1.Lurhrdc

dh ks libn. RDrh.pkr s
ori hli,jcli|(cfnisrphn snL

hLn..{nar

nnrMd nn rrr

UsrNGA SMocKrNc

rrNrd5 (l$d o,E od o{ rLrcrLrr6d5l

PIIATER

DsLhf ,mqDr of hrntn..dtd.

nrs vor[id on a sni]r

gnd

iLonsrr r.rsrhofrhrrr.rs
r|t rulri dn(lioul pulloL

rtv

0, i silur! of rlt .hD

ird MmN. rht rtrbi. Dbdh


JrEdi6
he{or oi :ftr 'n!rr

(ro.n) rorg- dln dr lcnsll,or

]hIfh!lg$''o]|l]r'aLn.Jlnnd

,hl h rdleb,no!e rrr fab,i.

$hq or. fr(

0rhhn. Nr

|l'kPllrq'hNl5aos:'ht
r$ft l.qLrr ind rhm for hh,n r,-ddr

,1" GDn) d<p. rlDr,rr hrdkr,


llr dlttr.r Ld\!q'
dell.,di,s on rhlnurlLdtrq
orlk Prar. Al,o drlr.,dFgon
01!F) b rr" (r0r.n)

trl P{rb!

r {.ond

oI rhe fabrn of 6

No r(ttlun

SMoakrN6EMsRotDERy
5,,r( HE5

(moFd. rh! nndE hold tu Iold:

is$orfllhn3
Elrrr nr.h tot
inF rs osi pltrh (rh!
o,\ |

! Lrfibdor ord uDd. Lhr!p ol

hdcrL(hd nrdrs 'rr' [n rdt


m' rL6$ bsdh{ (.ie 7 $l

Fb 7-3.la) MaviretuM lrlde 2


tuae tb) strch)ngtaa ttb6 toeethet.
andmurs q t ) to rcde rcrc al

Foqr@,mqo,r,.

rhl,h d
r'lol,drr(Iis

rlr)

al lPd

la'lzbxien65b4ightsil$

o|!d

nd runrd o"d dr su'n

nooLh rrbu b,!d5 tu edse (Rd{


on Fs$ 17Iffdtrtdnns

4r(

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wqr

or !

iP

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triGhonroN|j!!M!N.!
s$ll(re.j3hLbltl]]h.]idmg

MANAGT\G Tna
SMoCXING-PLEAT!t)
EDGE

Lhcqrsr Nr h.n rltrnm. (d{


prsc{r) ]\Lrh! b$ ol 'l( rufi]!

5Li'ri:ca nnod{hs-rrdrtrrds.
uorr, dr .dgc opntrdr\nh

or tuldr shhlnh.d ry rh. trn.r b\r

$or/.d,,, nilrNsq{h{-

nn I pdind !!!drr (Fis 7 r t)

CRUJHED TJ TLATIENED
PLFIIS

be orsdh{ nsnfdns o hasdns


hsid. r|t Qd rno\N $'irh rigtr(

rhrkr aoJ,nfrur ,o\! oLilolkd

hennededgeald'e.|ly-snackd
h.ney.fubp]aarna'sarn4fuhellat

jdILghtr!Lighloallht|].lssh]l

dcrtLbd Burir rhe rab,r is ho!

U* a frbncerc mnkins bol

STANDING ?].EAIs

ENGLISH

'!q doubrcjord
Lsn h dr.ds.

SMocKTNG

h.mm.d c(k. ovd a nar hbnc


e{.nsion rnd h.k rlregrco oI
.rh pler b 'hc labnc undercrh.
lishe,lhy rh. smochns(Fig.7 16)

5ha||wPL!8wit}rcnof3dkhiry'

EAtcityh:nEigshsmockig

$ hbnc. usinga li8hr box


tor ohrDad isibili9r ald
. TndhouBh , dd s,o.il
placd on bp ol rhc trbn.

PRocrDLrRrs
t. ro $rimd. $e ,mounroI fabric
nquird, tri& ro "Fibi. tu+dd
2. Pler rh. hbncrn(hinicaLly
(EI! b

FE v16.romhtutusbidtu
hdnd3&ch|helhadald.p]dbd

lsirs

a snodting

Pi.r'rf dn pasc116).skrp$cps
*r s and#i. .ominuc frrh

br mq h $e nFishrsEb

r. ro Pler fte hbricbrh'nd. mark


rhe*roi3 sidror 'heLbrn wnh
: gid oI dob rlign.d ro rhc
rEEhrsnin ol wovm &bnc.
nirch a htric t$mson or hpt ro
rEPlar fordsin hrk, bdind dr
fitr,I bv df req6orsmockinsnirhrhc cEft nikhinspadr ol
.ddlodcdlralhDsmoclirufore
rh. r4s dr 'hc Preied hbdc hb
shrpede,lgefor i6 d(ohic
drrd. or shn andllnnh rhnn.hru I* d.ush froh Lh. tubri!
.d8e b nlor for a nniehr *Rn or

rh. pkadDstobcchoc. in
aPPrDtrnn
dor-,ukh8 ocrhod
. Plirt a sno.l<'ngdor mnsf.r
sl].d ovs dr libnc Tmsld
rle do6 ro rh. hbric \dh an

PaPdPancn or dr do6 u$
romBE mpr*DB b 'ne

(ro {n.h Nnha 1i$uePars

Fis h 7 la) stenctandlb) saw


'tued tandate ut6db na* tdtue

Fig719Ale|p]ea]ihg'sccu|.lhe
seans la) t4 tpo adkLent tn,ab
tqctheL ot tb) Mrdnq parc ol
th'eads ,qtte 3 !/e ataDrdpns

I n r r r l t l ) L r r , ai r s l

rd

lLddjui rbu. dn hLn.!

L'L!.tru!trrh.L6. rnr.o,l

L | t r u J t\ r h . . . !

d lhr!ftnl

{n.,$ rrLr i.rt

\r[{

I
I

tf

$r b alft

nishn,, bd. tor !nocL(.

slanr a dd rftn

,nr[.d

on Fpr

r|r hLr. oponrs rh. slrhA and

hnp'oq*

e'ni" (riis 7 r2) L i 'h. mdn da


ri. .nbroidcrynnd$
hc \!r..

r daigd v,hilr

squ{.d., }e r nno. andpnrdrc

.abl. rh h,iqnr.h6.
.!b|cf

0orr'g1l'.trq'ju{rh{N
Lhc
fubri! ^Dd i tor ro rool lnl dq

u r D l r l d h d d ( f _ i s7 l r ) s k r p

M{rbs dds o, rlr hLri. t dr

NorEs .VAruATloNs

(r ) Nidr cYd,l)pr,(n!J 3n3


hui rlJid,.nrr$. .nr spofud
dBlg!!, rolls! a sriddntrl.nbj(r) \rL

dxdr h rrb.i(?nd:wtisnon

rhc n'b6 nLfircimLr ord u\ rrs

lu|j6 du,(

hdEn,bi|P.d

rrr {$r.

or Lh! tublc b

for rh.

lrdhlhtEnglj\lr

r& ftar. trlLhdtrgtrn los$ !tr,!


htishr \rr0 rh. d.i6 a. Ti.rd
rnis nrh ntribilr,! in,k oppo

rndrrmr dtsq6 for sDd{ig


.mbFidery !re toLmr, etidrNq
indM. pn,orrl no,ir5andpr s
orsolidnir.hru {trhD,h. rn(.d
bandsthl ccs dr Dlr.G. ix,
nmd (onon ohmidcq,nds!
s richcJnbr $lr hlo fher nos
E+i budnr 5'o.iirg ptrshs
rrrc.onv.ndosor!ra$i r:nglch
smocki,rsrr run6 lDevenftn
(ctur
rurmMd andceltuhl for
Fdnr' nrd *rr suPpodiry
connanr.ni uhniqu6 Lhd exFil
nsultss.xdon in lLdE:a,hcnrs
on iEcgur'rsrids(F g 7 2r),$rm
uNsuar embiodel' ni.h6 ri
nnchcoobindio'!.'nukiPtt1ub6
d hglch sf drkLdg,hddo$nr
{i!h$
lni,bh rhrcRdkDDl1
roGt ,h6d5 on thc adr!.,
dbjtd3

s!rrhingraiddowninsid.rht

lrchcd wi,r nn.hhs and so on


wirh rddv
olrhs, tu {r.r
pronbsof rrr p or rubts.ton
rulrdL by in\isibresmo.kinsnn.h,

ni,rs,bkk ftF. andchril. *$n


aronssch grcoYerrco md ro cnd.

inol|ing w.on8 sid. up The


sio.king G {olkcd on rb&kof
,he Pre6 Edr surh and nirch

gidov6. dhch the phfud l,bft b


: niihn.d My Fo!ddironal ri
ruE.rhnrddin.d dvr rheror ol
, ube andPullcdnur baak rhe

dhd on rhEnolonrnr oL$t


PL.rs lrur (flone)coinbnirch
h3. lhidr Equnc thEad Prrrd
md?itun,n tu hbric. B ulurble
hootron binned) kleFc
sno.kin8 ard nghl !J. shd.rbs
.atr Lc .o,nbid.d h the *m. pir

sr'ini'g enh Embreiderr c nrcs


uh, rolds dRiqr br bNr of srh.Ed!iLchingrenhrt rh. n,ni
D..ohu! ! ,nkhDc !mb.o iderr

soo.ljng tuquna a rar ft loss atl

nrlhEd and 3rhs.d

Lo{s. \!rh i

mdsmih repltus,he hild


Emhroid.rydrt rrdmi
$c
Dlr,6 or eJl smochng Mo.k
sno.r'!B E a PoPUL'r
coundrdt
pFducd. ?lthonshsom. hd.k
sdo&eE hrnd c,ibrodd ord $.
rols b iugSsL&rhenriciq (Rtrn

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sfl

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nndurc dc hbft wrh pl..b


(referh "smocliiruEnbrciderr
s'irh6- on PasEt27) Eeh do'
npro.nb tu pdk dr a fururc
Iotd anduil be d.ted up br a
sdrh rhe 5pebeNndob

DrREcr
SMocKTNG

Fn3rLhsmockhg hu! x(omP shs

Gplcs /. (6inn)ori4" (r.it


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shigh'

hdfmnl

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r. Mii[ rh. , ish 5idcor rhhbdc


virh rhedorI)dEm.alisrhgftt
rc$5 fr'h 'ne nGish'Ciin dr
eovd labLn.B.Ior clDosns
oneof rheIollo n3dolmi*ing

. ri$n drsm,k.!

srbon

iidi.tu m.hnu pnhs lor lDn


eycomb.surfrcehon.Fomb.

PRocrDrrxEs
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slths. DGCnsrhaundudt
\qvr. reLLis.snddiarnondritch

I on gnddedpapE(prEpre a dd
prrm ro suppoi,lh. snorlhg
enbrciderynirchE dosn to

rhroush
fie Lbric Usealigh'

U* ankh,ped rulr ro spor


Pnkiqtrp&.bdor*

n w.ft

nd No sdF(m do6 Ircm rh.


eEe roN(ou ine andble). o!
(wivc md mllb), m pu[.d uul
andbgdhs to ftre tht tube
J!d.ch,!nLco]nP.sitionoIlhe

lindyke) Euh
slack b mahd dot s.pahddn {F g 7 25).

F:s.vrl

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obnousdilld.nr

*h.n .ompmd

unnjsEkzblr plecd subsfr dure


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roldepDd!..d br r6rE.d dird


nodrrg B nuch difidem 'n
rppunncc dDn G. rippl.d p1.d
ins ot EEsed Erylish smockhs.
tuYeu.d dnfl' loolkig G ftdked
aM nnlhcd on d'. *mng ndc of
dE hbn. Brsu* of rhread!*ibil
t+ Notd Eis 'he hone)Ionb

Fiq.7 %. tuEycatu sMins htetpretdttot &et n@kins: ta) PrckupM.


b, rny sr'bh6 lb) Daw the dob
taeeth{ M ptted th@d. (c)hen he Mrh hb thekbic d dat2 4d btks

ridnd rlr dCa b i paddcd


sul'rc. scrirrrrer[bg n h0
sh.p. sram wnhannonhdd

'laDasing rM rno.hu

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sorLca on r gid oI uNvcnly
spaclddoc. vhnh mer or maynor

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ITALIAN
SMoCKING

CoNToLREDITAUAN
Sn ocKJNc

n:!
dirld$d, lohed Por ror su.

: l

;t;
l!

l,; _
ri::1r::,

- _ : - : , : - r- i.
i-,:= = - - ' : t

pznen Bpeat. tDodedtha ate vidrne natkinss, nat .tbhi@ intticatqs )

hbr. r&!,hcbDrfn

Lfts

F!! PLusr,,(i rq!)

k[ !i!h

,sdron,Lrcnir.r.n tlmrd

PRocEDLrRrs
FoR
SI{lrxrD lTALraN
SMocKINc

L v'k doEon rherisr! sideof


rh.l,bii., rlignbs'hedd ruNs
wrh lhc $nlgh'rin dI wolctr
hbric. cho6e fabricsle mrk

Mrlt do6 rhroqh punduE

L Copyoncof rhc dcigns b


ris 7-r0 on sriddedFrs zpprc
pmd) sdled lor lne plEdrs
foldwhE drEsdrhioais 3a,hni

dhud' ft rabh..u$ s rishr

'n. Prpd P{ko

dlb br

6 (Lim) Ihturddnrlndhld!
rcdL. ard nLtrlr Dr,!":
l.x!ry a
r" (7 5!m) hil oLh, {d ilrr ,lr

aDdni.rr rh. r.{ m\l ftrh0 rrtr

NorEs . VAnlArroNs
rnk

dr ddG rrur lnrkt up

ron plur r" (7 5on) ff qch

rudinnlr\r

Lh, rahrsNi

ror

ipplr.d ro I yanctoaunconnl

orrrbo! (Ers r 'r, 'n Rqu.d


lorsNlkuq

b. fo

h. flord

dl!nd.

d.d,t

iattutr !r\

onprs.Ir5)

Fd
u,! !!n br uodoni for nnu,. hnn

3nd 3tLNdL

']idtr,l4J '0

.{ryft,c

daiA! o! prpei ro otkd

!!

thrsd fo sh,n.d h]ntr sno.hins


b&on6 a i5ibre t]n of I r rir

srcuPhgoIxntkLlidos

d6elr :i!c.d
trYobr $!. Pusr dr.^libi! iro
irnll q, rrN lhrJ,ln*d.

DarNun

dutr rh! noG lrlDr


urd-shDd rh. mdr

ruI\iln

cdi(dionolrlrpl.rs

nifiq LhaD
.onhutd lno.krns

$'tuching
TucK BAsrcs
EXTENDTNGIHf

TucKrNGFAaRrc
..ihL

rn.|s

JJilr,lscotNclrNc; ty/IH
TI c(5

u{,h hr rhe{ordosrh..dg.
Gnrinurft ruckirs(Fiss tl

STANDARD

TucKs
snndxdtu**ansxe*ci8l[a|d

rewrfmd

Fs a4 ta) fuckhe cadhued ac@$ Fvius sans

mqe d:n f|

pmm)

(b) r@h@ qted

5E1M5 PEIIENDICL'LAI{
IO IL]C(5

\o!

ftk.d

\rrh diliitnr

rnanet

L!r ouLtr@ \rno th hlni. rhings.

ni

\un

arbdrins nr c(.niotr

1orh.

ntrk fdrdspbjrd or a$

(rt Fhtrdr rlr lu.k rol!15


\nl,h6,

nror ar $ or l rrs r.L.d and

lne

fud5w6Nofodlh:debyci

c Fjsuiclne brl 'mutu of faL


fic quicd for fie tucl<in&

a. Estblish nusuEnms tor


rhevidtl,ot a rucl (h. epec
beN.en No adFqt Nch

fit frrhin rht blgtr n.mn

PRocED(nrs
r. Erimderheamou of fabric
nqdrd ror ruckiDglnd dn

1 En,blish mssuftnmb for


th riAi or a tuck (he specc
ba,{n ru.kilmanl tuk

ApFl) oneoI rhefollowing

rd dsigB nin urcqur Eck


widdBendspaang.Ioldprp{ ro
ty ourdifl*rr .nngen.n6.
M6urtiEFatofthech6n
,nangmdt b.IoF ,nd :I?r fold'
hs. and alcuhc fi0n $rt bsis

b. tud @t hov ruy s.k d[ nt


frtu tu 6q{ i@lrzf.nl

Fi$rc de tobl anoutu oI ht

ru.k. mmsund f, om fold rc rold,


rnng. \vl'tn rtntred tu.ks r.e
doubltd rhcn .ombinedqid B
.qurl rh. Nidrhh Lh.Iohulrs
(Fiss3,r.3.r0. and3 ll)
hghrsidcoI hbnc rhd hs b&D
o' ro sic (EI! b Ex'udine
r}r ruckiig Fabn!'dn p.sc
1{9) [\q tukhdelolllin.
c{tr.dbcn*ssosdthl!8
lins rbd arcFdrh.d rdr(m
ilg (F g. 3 6) bur i,arki,,g all

bp {h.n dr ruckisfolded
lor *aniD8 i{Fanlin8L
nesry r arl (Fig 3 7)
oprio.sl{hm Nck vidrh sD
b. .onFotlEdtrth r *Mng
g,rC. *h'1. hR.d s$in8
nd onunMllyfrd.to.ks

l l

' ' . ' ,

FIga6'|h|Dcksbeb|eseng

Ddbled..nd{edced 0cls
neEdso nnlhing lin.s
(F1gs11). Ford,pp.ryI:E

pitv.nt hbn. fter rnd


6suE r.uGsr who 5s ing

ru.k on rherop rnd bonon


dgc of th. hbnc. nrk,l8
wirha hbdcs ednlPpdine
\i$ fie rule,aDdirdnak
rold li!$ vlrh dc.ppsing
ins{r

loll ber\en rhee+e

llor onbr.l tutk ftr{


verylishrLy) Alisn toldsro
the sht+qDi! orsoE!

Itngrh or 'n. hurly I'dd rold


ovftrh..dgeofabbleGN
entrd ruc[s lighd)) Pi! tne
I'y.6 rosdheraid nn.h srh

Fg33Band9filg||Ck'fuha
p@*
and b irdtaE 11)th"
Mtu d the tu.k and (r) he e
|aldo||hep|evla6lysewnfuck'
For nrhire s$ing. (dtrtor
nedledGune Imn rh.Ioldcd .dgc by aljgning rh Iold
frrh m*kinss on $. irtdl.

.llow,n.r guidc, lih msk'


inc upc nu.k to rhe bed oI
rhenFchhr. q by 8ng (hc
nsh' edg. dI 'h. pftstr lod

avay rromrhe rucr *!n b

indtd.d, h:nd s$ Nith an


$me mnnq burdrh diff.
ed marrhge Gio'hft .dlo(
longo baningnn.r.s, or
achnftlh.) Mark t
{i.hing lin? b rhr 1.ft ot rhr
lbld lfHn.
1incvtsibleon

bdrd 'rkine B,ugc(F e, 3 3)


sev tuc's ||jth a stabhB e kat

!.win8-a! sscdgc lboq atr


.ds. l1ldrci or an adjGrbte
blindhanloor k..p phnud<
fdr, q rds. rtE tu.ker
d rh. srq.d pr65r rod
9! ]nafu'u dn. ,nd iP

mrkrrgs*hrd {}iry

rI

larh 'r.k b.foE nanirrs ro


ss!: Avoidsn,$d8 tne nrkirs or bsdu rln.d! Ln,ht
ondarls wdl6a Pnma.y

mmdcdtorddublcd.,nd
len
kred tucks.Aft& LdPinlhirs.
6 Rtfcrro Ertndins rh. Tr.king

Nolfs I

. Fdr iI hur cmerd tu.ks.

VARIATToN5

Th. sfddrh srruq

ro prord tne Irbnc. Tun r


rucld Lbft ,o rhcb,ck:nd
lEsagainoniprddedgl.
hr LoPEsrycrhc dNtr
sio,ulrr of dt llrrrce folds.
bc,w..nLh.tucls:ndrlr
hbnc b.loft piasins Grs ro
. Forrtnt Gdtuck (nu

rhc belorcpnsin8 (fi& 3io)

our r rhud ltuh dtr Ndn df Lh.


l:rbflc ru.o fie hbn. ro ft. bKk

nd diy

dtmanG xad nen'nn8 xd


rikdg. accuEr fotdins. 'M
*m$ nnlhcd plunb4rai8hr ?

B.lol. ndkiry, h t|t8in ol


roED hbric and nsm prae
spftad rhe hbnc orc Rnrr,..
rsB?r ,ha! rs lngrh rna rddr aM
hold ( hur whir. m,king. us,, s
e.iddal cudng bo.d fo! iEishr.
n.ssdni@'op'iomlfdnddslol
lold lind ndkhs rhr mry bc

wh.n dsnng roldspno! b


*nchb8.fordrnd pr* cvu th.
(hLshreilsrof z nnp oI hsr.r
paD&arLgn.d,o ,hEsraishBGin
bd w{r oppdnk po3r,o! m{ks
5!{e rhe*:n,lins of sdja..n,
rds ar le-, a prc$crloorsdth
rpi( a m.aucd rromfie n{dte
b dr kfi. Foi rh. hml pr*ns.

/\risn rhefoldsor hPecd tu.ra


ro rhcshiqlunin dl Lhrr,bdc
erc! u,oushrhc hpmn3 *rfrs
srnDr.ei'nr arrnErnu dr..!dr
rtun u.k d rd{ (referr, Fi8.34).

rurk. &i,s fte ft,tdlir ovd


E *con.hry {DrLhe. drcn
l)r6i'g (rig 3]t) dsapn
nsid. rle rucLtu& ro op.n

i
t

s(un rr,. rrk nndsd a od

tL

illovinc: roPnndrddenth.
niddh olrnbnd anddoubted

Jor..nEEdtucksbrrrcldh
ddtituctuowtu3ffi

@ anq evle atu (b)@sad withtE

( c )shb||dn)kdfud|fueb5ltnry

lhehalehthe|irge|be|a|e1sednE

rlkrd

d$iq

ippsr5 uadrleL

r F L s3 1 5 ) P r l ! . G r o f . d { n [
fE$o

roo, rLrn( tab,ns ir. trd

s\r[

(.,s 3 r1).Nn D(dLr

gl.IL'!n'$illpudlllo$ul

Fige13,Fabftrcsh4edgihds3

1i

l :

. F

i i

F L

f i

ii

, : !

E
!

l|}f
l

: : r i
: : 1 1 :

i l l l l
t

d
I

I
I

li
l

It FI
a
t! rF
E.
I

tt lF

FFr,
L

rt

EF

Fr

trFt.

! FIt
E

Fii

Fi

FFI
FFI
EFI
E.TI
tsEt

I -1:-

5 - I A ND A R D - I ] C K 5

*i

gl

il
1..
'i.,

lril
|]j;nrrrtn{i.?rEieio:!,i{t

. i

t
I
!.

I
i.
:

\\\\

tiiftl

il!il1

ltilii

CURVED
TUcKs

i;"iiiLiiiliA
..Y^i\(1.
j,
PRocEDURES
sund{d rucLs Lhd b.sin on
Phn rn artr4.hrlr

ofcuard

NorEs r VnR oNs


i..o,nndd,r.

dr ruck. ldd rwo

,hc lcrsdr o! Edius or th. hbi.


whd rurqt rf,h. rab.icis !ur

Fq ch (u.k,nnk a fold l,n.


Rndri uPpd ud lq{ sanrin.

id(dI$enenqorbyn6ul

lincniih

{rh6

nning {ch!5.

o!

w(h $e ruckfotded.

on lh. lowd s(Dlii. q!


m$tby*smsr udl I

Pin o! h6E rrrcu.k smtLnc

cEa* Ed' {ord rtu {nh ftc rip

Prls berocPmccdbsrorhc

ThehLn. bc.vrtn.uned r.ks


shourd
L! luclFGecaDd,ir bcif
d uDps*anlint or.kh ru.k t
s*d sroorhLtiThc llN oL.uM,u
'ud$ ii pro8esirq rhe,mounrd

Nde Pr r.I

] ; :

: : :

i : i

.rr.,&P o pir t:

SHELLTUcKs

NorE5 t VARTATToN5
dbrind ftk ]/1"(6om) ro
Z" ( 1.3.n') rid.. Mxrr thr

irs:rrr |lt,ucls [iv. bcur

PRocEDURES
shndal Tu(k na brgrnon
2 r, hxkc nachile.nirchdshttl

o*r+e nirhi)8. suidirg


dL!ivingsro rhciighr.r jLs'
mG$ the edscJusgl. nn.h
[ng , rh,ighrocdb|non

n,adinr an lloduc Hor.v.i


ddE hd aDdsndur.d, (nrred.
dr kPrrcd &l5 eo hav.shdt$Rlloptd.dsc b) o{dlge {i!h.

rame{linb thehLnc.Fahcshell
ftks,r 4 uchin ntrfes oo.c
brinA,h. ,hrad ovr th. Lu.k
i eqls spaccdar 16r brd
rim$ rhe ruckrvid$ aDit. To

hbnc ff8 F.r tvo, shrlls.


hrk NeE4e Poi,s ,irrr

rhc dn ctu$ lor lund siLfud


rhdl luclhs aft sl)dtu Brins r
,.a tad. b l,,tr' wlidr 'unB 'hr
Iold foNnd b imke $t slishrnn
wnbrhrnrl"(ll!h).

Lh.ftJldr

ruds,n,r-L. $llop.d udr i l.{


sn(.h .nd pin 'lte Eds$ of 'Lr3
sh.U rtrckd l,bh!. iisbrsid. up,
Loa p:dded su,-f.c., and ntxn
\r,h the non hcld jun rbov. rtr
rulkf8 Alotr ro cootmd dr

roLd.{hthhrlp3ld B,Lh hr
'h! oYsedse
nir(h$:, e roodort
'o8dh{ fo! tu dd'h of rheruck.
levdrhn. ltn b hndrlupptu
(scr phoG ofshdr ruck on

ovcdg. nnlh s rhddrh

on rlt tubn.,ford'od $en

rcI

{!h

lb!',!J!)

kk

CoNToURED
TUCKS

c u 'd

risll siL. o( nl

I .

t:

'"(irm)wdio&dedsssr

t.

PRocEDUTES
Lh! tulr 6 fdJd

n{ 'Ni'g)

I
dr

roLLr'! urqLLsL !,rg! !r 'hl


FA 3.21 f'e

.nbtPd

wi{r seans

pr.

NorEs et VARrTroNs

combine dilr.rtn' .dntoubg

ruckhs prllE. (oGidft rh. efl(


'ien6!o|ad.signwh.ni*

$i11showu!h$ ,ht ,ndum oL

tuk rols aod dv.ilips, nrgcc t][

(.frDk fu.tr,whi.h look * il


opdliDgsureotdru8h,bP
hy{ of fabft 10 .\po!. .idrhcr
or id.nlra[y conbuEd trdG 'hr
md in rhe cedf sii.d lryholc
rcqunc no h.kl Fmcd h 'hr
.ombinarionnue be exL': r*d
lu.k or ettual widlh ,fd .onron.

sdri' rii.,'.d .m.o!r.a &.Ls rrc


rhrp.d ris the tu(k5 hRv. b*n
nitdd A bdrdd ollhmd rc.
venB Lh?ot .dg6 of $. r,hic
ltun frling Dd ale .dph*t6
dE conroucd pron|a oI rhc ru.E
odo tb.
,{fto rGlins LheomNr
fronr of i fi*[cd tuk. !u' o on
dr.lift and in nn.h dvd ]n. .ur

ftr ncrhod: FoUoNthc ti!.dour


linc $itL $in sdrhing onovethc
hbncbqond ft. sun lrchd
conbua bj .uning fmm n.!dh
hdl. to nccdL.holedln sd{I.

lDLcruckb8prEr on 'h. roldor


a n.ip or pip.i (d. Iold b !vl,oc
lne Luck will mfttr olen rhc ndp
b kr Cr k.l[olc d6i8n Ah{
r!ck, and pns,ng rhc lol& k fac
.ich drhd [ind rv th tulk5
iosdhs rh$e thr 'otr.h unns
d(oc'ive o. irusibl. !ii.hing

Fige24'conlfunngheedgeala
Mkhin$ w1G r dccdon oI dElq
nivt nitchc an b. pro8hnmd
$am|ortrLfifringaftcNtrd

rig.s.23Dlanond8hpedkeyndes
Mbdbybow.|yihgllbpahtso|
lwDzEzas.arM
tuk beethel

-_,,l

. *j

..-*.r

_-

__.

.-:..

l !

t
(

1!
{

)LAIIJED I IJ'Ks
(i nm) w& co$.(a!

t{rlt rthFrlr rnsotr


?djacnrtud6 ro o\d'lL

reguar

rrr aordrigir rp rDdr! rd

|,j

ldNlq,,k

tli5h$

(bl

unhn, erTely qaed

PRocEDLnas

hnL(iu'bu,!ft

Ll{ tu!L ((n

L!dh racLds\tror r Frd.d

sDiE to cB

NorEJ t VARrArroNs
b Fonni{ an.{n bn or r, irr is

(r rr)\i.oinrdninLo

N'h sl6hs rtagq(d i,5u((d

nf!i8h, F rrcm ,rrr fold md


n'rk(\o5rsh$u

conr

Fs j25 rd hake shads teeh: t3) sp8

Iabn..an L pilEtnuftd rll


ow !i1h rnip ftLnaqlrurkr co(r
ulprs.d blind iuck FnryE'h.
tr'(*sand.ifLhc tuhi! !,1!d{n.
sh xnd spin dr i)
aubnniary
ilLnbh rrd ldftdl'M $il,|cd.

R {rhdtrB.

tu.15G sprn

iro rhRd.fioc lodpi

rl'd(l

{ft fdl& illgn.d ro r|f nnqh'


gn,n, tlNads,re pidad rdJ Ptrlldl
rhchdp ot, Ld,gtrlrdl. orpi,
B|tor unravtr1i,,s. diyjd. tns'hy
Ld'lr 5!rn.
.LTsr(r.ndtulr
Afts cigng, {Rbrltc virh i $n
d|n,ifug:ig:agnn.hit&los
,hr basr of r frirse b rrc\ftl
nor unnveLlnre (Fq 3 r0) rn.ks
,u.rd hbn. nnrengrhtD.du'h
li 'u or p,rs-on irtnalin8 1o
tulrlledlnng.
lr rft!!v.

vrry rth shark! tdh obnsdy

sl,:h6 mar nop shod dr rh. ltr.k


s6n. and lne Dgl.! dr 'h. poin6

drhx|]]n.
th,nrwli@$rud!
EnNr v'ihrpdl {edC* ol labft
Isr tu ru.h. rnd fol{l s usull
(Fis.3-ze)Innsd oI zisa&ing.
Fg.s49shapngsha*5le|hby
pushing|h6slasheded94fuehe

FE 323 skshinswirhrcbhes b
rtntnd

rhr N.dsc i sid.r|t rtrcktubero


Iom tLt arsh (Fi! 3-2e) Ladds
rakinA.arc ro |r-tft

hbn. dNads

nkks *sntd

do$n t

bcIF sDpping ,lk! Lh?rring.


Isn loopd b lalcrcd lI rllc rrb,n

trrks $c lnnlcuLF
o fiI,n. w rn

/.

//

,. . / . _

. /
./,

./

/ .
/

,_
/ . " _

/,

/
/

S L A S H E TDU C K 5

CROSS-STITCHED

TucRs

. rbr howaieduck5. Provide


wnedrthinsth

*er the6ds

PRocrDrRrs

r}e roldsoI rhecenbEd Nc|.s


'o br pr[.d up rDd bcked

r. tuvrw Lh. pro&durcs for

rred r.k
L rnablnh a!6e olto.k.d hbn.
. For undurado8 tucks, droo*
pin. !pk.d. dr brhd rud6

b'o bouied ruck

Foi unduldins dck, alrs

rcrc Allow sumdmi sDke


b.rwen dFcrr ros of.rcs
c\Ee djEdonfr
onr dnguP
th
fabnc
Gig.3 t1).
s6s

'h.3per n&dcdberw*orhcows
o1rop$n.hing ro rep lh. hbric
fld Unduhtingd.lls rrh :
heishrwheErh.y cha4ednrrion
'haLrquii5 'hEdeplnor the rucks
rhc hcishror a bow u.d u& u a
lirle ls rhnrh3lldE {idrh olrhe

*ftl,ins, hcl d. lbtdcd.ngc

p.ddeil board.sd rh. Pmj.df8


low ndgir
ngulirly 3pkcd
Buidelin$ mnkcd mrh libft

Norrs & VaRrATroNs

ro cool $xl dry beiort uip'n

allowrDcs .r dr dr(GoLln. tuls


To makeft o osov{ rop*irhins
ovcdlldsig!.ukld&oRdvt
iiLch vhen seNins UneveDlt

lrun &. sndry panllct and ngidly


nishr, .fr.nvr ly partn inlo.
Dal. loo$r app|natioEoI ro$-

bgdh& inconspiludtrsly a dn d
bsdL{ ritb boq-ri.s oroma.
nfthl rhrdd or cod ardallor
rhemdsrod,ngle For a dsign in
ruds on lh. rop ol ,loubhd an,l

*ffi

ffi
w:

til#llllNt,

{w$\[\\r
#ll#dll##

CRoss-TAcKED

GE 3 r+) rh! wo klls trr


bd\*o'. lodrd j's' ixide 'h.
lolds rLioN,lr cds6 b cunup

TUcKS

NorEs & VARTATToNE

il
{idflurks:

bdw.tn hubhlt 'u!r hlk 8ubbl.


Nlk5 rN b{ rid on rlr sortrc

(l)ln

r'l]c

ibbon. l.aYhs th( cd cids drn


slins, xqd rh.y * p*fttrla y

'h.*olinbIk.runliq

rhr kfr lold.(l) cr.hrh


Iold dirur! opl osnedth

PRocEDURTS
1. R?{r* thr pio.tdufts lor
sundid li.ks rhl bcginon

bgdhei (l) Tr.k .si'n


dNnsh rh. enrer ot thc
doM (1)stonandcur
r]t rhErd-u arry the

rh5. , rabicyG dnrpp.xrhg


pe!.or lhnlk rn Idrspx.ing
Iis| rpplling dr sclcctd t.h

bc,w&tr lacks o) Bd,s


rh{ needleour d rheluck!
(l) am'

'. thmd dvd

*an Pullrhrt]lsd

ponrion{G) 'n f'g. 3 rl)

((b)'n Fis 3 rr).


posn,on
rosdhe and,ln ld\ei,

kck

.jLlcd tuda n<d $Ifiltnt \pac


bctrlllDb.kjn3poi'Bbpnvd{llt
pul on ih. rull no boMns rl,e hl}
d rtt( I r oblcd. rh 5bnd oI a
6bled rudr .quals a l['1. l6s 'lmn
rorholh kiids oI!tu$ kc[.d
trtrks !m Rndlr*h $th h.k b
th. s,n n oNrncs r rhc bqin
lins androd or!trEr Bdd bubbl.
. bp liJeoIcoMcd{ndlar.
kking
erd Ncks c$lFdad

'fuc(s

PARTTALLY
SEAMEDTUCKS
M

bekdch or nnch in phce ro


rdry ror cros ock.d pfum.
5, r(51h {oldsorr.l6.d dck

rypesof P:dart $amed rlcksl

-ranl.l

rel6.d rohons ot rh. tocks

e.kr rth podom or

|oosefo|dsf6m$esamedfo|d!.

iD&nprd tucks,sftrh rna


pin rhce4$ or dreNckins ro 1
ircnhddju{$o!clh.su,c
orrherucks.
andalloqh.ool

PRocEDtREs

6. Rds b "Exhding

l n.vrw thr poaducs ro!


su'rd,il Tutk 'n{ b.gh on

. ru.ktng

NorEi & VAru{TroNs


suh.d ru.k dn gEPl Pale(
d<ocdYq theylundion $'n.rh{
I'kc plti6 ro crEre and conhl
fullDc$ in rhe m,rr.d !.dbc dI
$c fibn. Th. lullnss..n bc tso
lrd n oneo' on borhmtlsof rlE

nlellin6 toindic(. rhepin,


sp{e4 brrd. $adurd, cm
ll ol m into un*m.d lolds
d d6Eurd poirB ((a) in
Fis &rt) sp.riry ,h. q,Peof
1uck,tuck$dth, rhr spm
beNen hck, md Iotd pi6s
i'u d'frrdons on fte Phn.
. Forimcrtuptd tuck, ounin
nn.hing vnl be$spcndcd
{(b)b Fiq.3lt) rhGlaE
$e rlan into a full{L.d ,!.L
ing pakn. sprd our ro
bcludr sprt. ror $e uck
folds,silh tu.k ssdld$
rcred b$id thc ccnlmd ldld
rrnc. Lihi 'ur liahlor an
i\trn|d
uh daigrb r.

F]g'ajs'D.slgEh|padialy
.*hed|uckwjlhkMindi9fug
w6ttatds: la) Betead tuk wk
stq3. (b)tntwbn

tucr; \|ik brc-

ruckedsideor dE *am.d sidt ol


ftl.aEd tulk5 canbeskced for
lhcrightsidcwhcnth.iin.d
sid. is oubid., rhc ru.k in bkk

3 Usingx r,bic.qre, Enishhs or


frark rhenshr sidt ol rhel,ln.
vtrh rold liIE ard *:mhrs *
:mnsemcnr Mx& rh| pdDB
FoI irL,!.d

ru.k, .xpandrhe

tuck dd$s bsid. L\t tdld lin6


Fdr bkrrupred uck. fte lold
lins ltun &. pdeD: hce
4. Fold.nd sewnr dcks b)

Pull ,hEerd of ft suirmc rhld


ro rh. ba.k and ri! the nedh
beloa rnmdng lht drt,&

rrtr

Unlile rel4.d Nclis, {abricDat


tm.dwttnDtnrt@Prtdfuckln3
dign nmbs shbiliucdthmugh'
nonrlad ruck lolds ssnd, rna
lne pdls 'bd rplae rheinreE<
crcs pmjcc' .vcn non. rhe d.va
ddn of rhepurs is decmined by
rhd db.h*gc tu pufi. shr papd
danning tonn intmptd tuckins
daiq! a! r Iully prcdnt rh3dorh

t :

TUCKS
SEAMLESS

&k5. 6\r b!!l( rold. roi Iotrr

ush8 {uiJ,v drrn n r orr


l,e.!{n

trvo b{Ljold

dob

irofg fien eisth There are No

Lq:{hc rishrr on ,he thErd


b a.md

r]I hrk lold dds on

dud pnl nn.Lrs.no'ins


b!${nw't]lddsbrd'!
nccdh 6su( &{ n.b Nori
tdsc to rds. (,) in Fis &r6J

dun{ tur ((b) 'n rris 3 16)


ln& l.ngrh.pin rh. mds k, a
luddd surtx. andner n i'h .i
beoledd4&lorcr

ing

PRoCEDLTRE5
FoR

PRoc[DUREs
FoR
CruslERTuc(5

TIEDTucKs
r. Phr a (Pladns.tull.sEdr.h
No dob.oN(td

'iliut

duncrs, diillL Lhl urrd mLa


lEord
br lh.,iklntrnbc
ol

!kAn( rlr 6lrri. h{roE lnd


]fr]lLrcdnrduf'hd*ntra

I wlh ! tubiavtu
Fis. 3 36 ra nab tubt

trrn{lss 6f rhr hbrrc iuan(


!n.

tdtr hr.k roldstr rh,-

Psr or ruril,

lrcb: (a)

atistEd vdhatty and hd,htaty

hr bcr.ur ro!a. Dosu(

\i1h a lb! b

or rie (F{ 3 ri) rh.

fujmp'lirg|hesrbhesloge|he|

lb)

6sdh.. Fo.surr!( trls.dd d!


n*hr 5iJ{ (he r.hn'qu. hll
ob{rtu drc ddc)r lor(.6e

NorES t V.4RrATIoN5

{drh ol&
u'ldemo$

i - r - i i

i - j
i
i
i
i r - l

tuc|lsbrinhricbulr
concal Lk idE Rnd

BlanLs lillo{fs

sridi$d

pd.

oorhning virlr tr'!l$ 'hi un m 5Lr


n,,l,ldndLedorn b ndlh'rs

t!"t @b-s la) tde 3l a\ atdan


q aq\hq lb . d) Pa$a'data aar
wrhsbgg*dsp2cirgard.hangesin "F

too rh| rabiA surli(

(t) Mrkr r

r][ fcdk inro ore dd and


lxrtn

$,.idins 'he lhs apfl b

d.d r trp No rulk wlnr dr


ds'gtr F r.d (r) fti( rhcpd'Lm
hbn+{rE dnip|!{14
. Nhtn surf?f lrirs in Go

.orkd ir b{k. r'h..

. Fn rvd*

Fiq'3e'P|epaingbreafuCkby
Cannechga@no|bb||ilh@t

sof

pd' or

Lbn! wnh r li|irc po{iL. oi ror l

\trh dhd rratug. (r) cau$nsb)

')ing dn$ir

rhrcu8h b 'he nghl ndt rl't

thtd$ so ({) rvhlo nNhd

pin

ourdr?rc6bdlcco,hc,u!rc[d
'u.r'Dg ro . peddcdboaid
srnn Nnh,n nor hcrdiun

dry h.lo. upimhs (5) Rtau5r


oondd!*
ftd r!d( d!5iqn! .hatrgt
th!!'rgsoIfufubLi.l[nnnigh
and rnr io dnron.n fin Lhr frbrn

: '

_}

r i

PATTERN
dineisioia zes d*iqm wiih .udin8

PRocEDURES
ca!3u.hirgqnrg|hereee@a
swt \{n
,nh) ta the tetuat the
xre pin nL.|d

1b Plo* rhr

tide tudu oppast4 stayins a scanl


t/s"11.tun) noh ke the d ethel

rn vq$ua ,he fabrnbrfoc aDd

|he|h6adhulfuJa|e@n|ihDirg

rngdE hLn. reqnnmcnt.or


sdcL}'1,Ldns|.J:dfbo'h

fahnc sentq Ph murd

'hr

suili( ol rl]c tudG aDdrlorh


$ol Jod dl,lbttoro uvhg

|'nmlr'd dk on a riBhL
6d d Mdo{ dunne drrliBh,
bc\,N
r ri.sofrhcpn

d6br dth are.hatrs ruhhinesflch-

Norrs 6 VAtLATroNs

ll.hn) han one sb at the the


ard btins | tut '/6" t1 snn) itan
llElha@lJlesifudiBc|lyw6ib
MoviE toNatt stqhql, kk a tiry
cahtirue hack ard tdh (b)ahet,,
{|ch6'pullhe|h.ead|aut|abig

.mss.:rd $op ind n

ansh{.

horr'.ind rrrn gdtrlr rflh.


6," GN'n) vid. rhr ro!.
trd{arLot
th Lhl o{dr.
i.{*dqllt

L G ddjl|]h'

ju* rLrod of rhcn(dr. 3nd


io noR dran ,r/ ( r tnn)
rFr rh. ford For dshr dr{s

rae nid, oDonc sdc oLftr


rhtlnd asu.tuenfuh or rhc

dn crion.olc'rding {nh
Lhrcadtmbo$$ rh. dsien
*rh thr ndg$ 'hd h e a
tup. lLk..dsc (Fu 31r)
inic d rhr kdnil0.

Anex(p

P ; TT E I N i U ' (

N'

FilledReliefs

P A R , TF O U R

Q Cording
BASlcs
CORDTNG
CoRDi foR CoRr)Nc

arrnrrNc

n,s uri r aPP{oi !odirs I

HAND-SEwN
CoRDED
QUTLTTNG
comhiiedon rh* embcser :i nEr
]a.igd*giintoihesrhcef:hft

PRocEDuRrs
dri.e. No Diialkl. ev.nly
5Pedrin6 rhc lin6 drin.
ina'lai .nrfrn'ng p!rh! thrr
rPPr b Nl! olq znd und.L
dn. ,nd'hcrwhererhedoublenop5d. prosns0n df r
dhe( rnd ddr dranntlilier
channekir m$6. s(au* ol
nens(Fig.9 l).Th.eI|widd

opyof'he dsisn onrorheinn{


cuno rhc dcncd sL. (nrd 'd
. For runi,ns nn.hld codd

. rn b,.k.sdr(hd co.ded
quilling, tri!. rhcdaign dnb
rhEsu.fee6bncrsjDs. lan
tsh,q n sn\, Emoubrc
BsE rht inDd linDeb rhc

d6ien Nirh rinl uniaom nrch


(o${!s

s. AL PofB

vre

b{w*!,hE

fabncbyqs ro dr

dunncls intnup' d. I'nc bdDe

rhelineco{irucs,hkinS. linr
bekdrh on dch sid. or tr

t s4 N D 5 E W NC O P D E DA ! I T I N C

F{

I-qi). pdlql Lh (!h 'lr

.abte catd: la) Pakeand Msst,athe


taryatd (c) LeaE shad bk wh*

NorF-s t VAR,ATJoN5
^n{.o dtr,g.rh! li6n! Ld{lqr
rr,! lnd r,nnr rhJon.rssha, d h.
dDorls

/" (6

1T

tr) widc {! jLLr!

rrrh| !trt,( hr,nrr* sullrnr

!$

or rh! inilrrrhg

annr! fllf

.onP

il

hrin., b(

r,{, r/ (6imJ.hrn

bs a L" (6Dn).hrnn.l

(6rnr) drmd

d.nsrn r. rNd5ibL 4srr0d

!hirnrr Jod !d,he yrD n rhf

rh. lrdr. !I1l'! hirs s,r r,!P\ lLf'


otrGid ]t olnnigr tr. trLAg.d

ncrhcd LxPuLLbs
rfr][ dumds

nLlldv,l, 'm

lable.lorded.rarrl

hN. 'nd!

.!ble.!{ded hb.ic,r liunr n


h,unLLluoFn lrrd
hhLi(

larhnrs

(nnn) d,trnd A doirr!,r qnJ.

dnnr -rdri.r

rfiL a iDg(ndl

Lf'3 e rl .huN, hfe.r'n(dk


o hodkn,!nh0rqriunriig
,l,rmqi

bf rha,d.d rhnrusf n

ld .o!!td und{.

: "

'.-':',
1[rnr\5 r 'lt chaoDd1(hinrd

hennDinn R.n,ov.rft nnns


(|,is q.r) JoLr rkro dN.Lop.d

-- ,-4."

---,.=,,

-tt':,\i::

i,'.i':t
'l<,/'-:\:
A:'

r{Ddhnosri

r.,rd
n{ligr..td,n,oai!

Nnt!
ihoi
llilLn b(L{i(hia

l'u*'Lr inDd

cta$ore thtead haus the cabt-ecard tn da.e

I :ri*r.'.1t

,{ffii
;

l-!.-.4<_i

I arrr!'!r!r&rt
+:!rc**

. -

M,rcarrr-5ewl
CoRDED

hs rlrrr dais! Equns 'oF

QutrrrNc
uDoi(]btlb!d|gl]tunL5
d rr l ro'!i i' balr (r) P,LLL
rrN oLlJrr thFad rp rdl qr ol
r|t lLnhs 'de (r) Ttr rhttuc

qhq'dtbn{Lh.t?hn.lhI\ll

nrhrsqn& kioL o) rn$r

PRocEDURT5

md1.rr$1, LhLo{dh nno rh.


rlriDs{ dr lan *rcr orl[l

rlredsr

$nnoir

con(al Ed! Ll( Ld!!s.oPr d

(+) sr!r!

NolEs A VAruATroi\'s
h1!. PrELrd dorbl! lDclhaDnrls

lbou rind *$n.o.ded aui d,g'


durs dsdibed on |]sc t39.

h fft.d

s$) rnllltu

a r i r r i r AG r { r . r $ m . c d d 5
6! aoidrDS on Plg. L37l Mo{

(6dun r h$ nrforshnnirLl
+nP'uuq'htL0(|hg/h.ginnnlg

(r!5lb{\

m rnr

Bdo,r {\

ir:.

d(r rrior urisf ro$ oa rh.


d6 3r onro dr hurs (rL.L
Prsr l0j) trarf 'lE linrngb

\trh an i

hrl{abq! rhrht)

lidrr
d,h:peina bdycr
lhmre s FoL!,rid ordns. dli

.h.i,nd! or,nod.rk lu,sLhHLh l


nPctr\ trLldrco bqLkN orr(
'h. !nd rlmnsh 'lE !hDn.ls qrh

h3$fdi(fi'dmd]cds'.nq
ba.k 5dd a rm @d 'h,r bu

Pr$s loorfrrh a sF . in 'he k.


dnLchoN r d,nrIahic 'hd vnps

s
Fltrdnsdinlnats.oin{nim
a npznt xlnit
cLEnud srthLnB
(Ii sin Nih rnim! n.lnhad hf
tr lNgI

'hr lLnh8iid qrdlli

L, lorpd!tu
lor 1ltr .u, \irr oI the
ntrh(.IiLri( orr Lht q'Js Prr
LhclLu!3 u' d'! jdc (2) $rh
rhc n i(.fibri! up rNlhcfisL
san Gl h5slr tnn roid. su.h

rsriE, ihe $N
qdis
k
$
(+) corhu.

*ms
'rh.

proenls th ud ao h!
humpLdrds6 a'uid b\

(F g 9 9) lDdi.n. oosured 5p.ain8

laat nak6 a @saqew4 tot the

noNrtd \!hcn .ord G nitdrd


irsidr r]t lhrDncL BLh( dNr
(F'g 910) rL Eithfl
{dd
ndhod oIm$tun. th! rmho*cd

lne {B.d r{lr or qrd's sd' Li&r


o | lup oI pudnc Iabn! sun
lcqtrd
*n.hmsN(h1kq

nnh knoln ud lwisb 'hd !lx,*

Lordrn rcdl.s
und{ r]t rk${

$rhrziPpdor
nN Ldr1r cord.

addinsc.'dcd qr5.

heschingwil]fuable|awaprhe

Birh Jhd(r/rt

'

r'r-

n .h.,.difg, i |dq'onioI
rhit:d.n.lo$
rh. !ord rvi
redLe or :iszis {r(h'ng n'bni

taj cad insetu afret swi@ he hannets atu lb) cad bsed.d thte

Guide lh. .oid


kD' b {trdrtrg

1.

T.

i
I I
I
I

v
E

E
E

&

t-

Ii

f i
i t
,

Ii
!
!

Jt
!

a.
!

lt.1i
''

=i!
:i: h

: ,. : : i : : " l '

:l

u''.,il
i

|ilil

t' : i
I

t;

1,;:

t . ] A C HN a a E W : !
aoriJ:f) QL|LTtL.

UflryIlir{.ar-s\

SURFAcE
CoRDTNG

PRocrDLnE5
(ds k) .{J\ [{
ir(L{Lqn
.o dlrs Dfis. Lsn fn 'ril

@.\J..J.!'.'

q rhe djr-4-ea.-F between b-F

r.Lhn((s{ (ii !r r rs e it

b) fre nnintn spaceb,4||en


seanstat adkcent.dded tubs

.,fdtr.tr!!

snnn.nor

(lr \1ur Lor)Lhr

l!, ,1,!.!rr,atr!o

rrl i(ld rLrr


.r

ri6,rtor

o {hr

d idir(d.

dr..tr\l

,iotrs $N th..nds ot rhr fubn!

Notr burdis r]I flaLsor th. N,n


whcrcrlq ,nc(. n s$ 'he L!1bLLI*

*wtr.o,d.d qniltns. surr!( <d


.d dDnnelsnDise !o s or r
c o L t r go n p r g . l a 7 ) P d k m s &

rrom Llt r,bn! !d br .trr.d rnd


.oil.d dMnA aDntnmn D.(hrd
.oklirg is ude tson dF d{ bhs dtr

. n, nich2od-od h oncoF.
a,Do: (t) Fdld bd\*rr lItr

NorEs t VARrAroNS
.onlhuotrs'i'Frordng$.Iltrt6b'

{n

(r) I$qr dd LBidr 'lr

pinn.dtordo) r\nnDgth.

F4hincGr 0, in rir eit


,rn lod ,rnvrds:

o) Pli

orro$? 4singsoi (r) s$!


rherrc$s loor o) I hndins
lhccodinta,P$L]n<dk

iri,lc tu NhuLr .asinssG<

tds$ or surr,le-cordd fah,r ror


&$ l] trdtrd crn|! o\ s dr
*!munderosLh! b6r \i(h

(Fis s LB).Th! .oil t oachine


nrchtd h'i& thr c.'Ds \d' r

qL u idEsough h indud. s!

Parar rirhs^drhg

RRrn

q|l (.n

rtro ) 5lutrjqnnA Lrc Pi(s of tuhn( o hrDs.!c i toMd:tronh

q.il d! noP a rc$ i!trm'LLx

ford

brr(ri8 o n) For.LilL(i apPl.

as ene. la)PlTs/weanebt ir
san awratb tb)P,p)nctuenihs
b{{PiPhghlldngiIreifli.

oI hhn. trnL au.+6 nr.Lbs

rf

rbdtrr" (jcn) noo rh.,n{rins


|)oinr oP.nrr p+urnLdns ashg
$J finnh rhebdnnu (h! e 2it)
s.{ 'lr {!ord pi<e ot fab.i. roth.
|in{hluht!'lsfaqngfilrlh.
Pip[A/rEldlginrcoddloLLid

Frg9.2lMachfusewingnrea|
p@rylretinola)dowa|dhda|in
s.a,n illdwa(s

(r) Hdlli'3 d{ r,p of Lh!q4

rc iEidc orded

b3 ro nake cod.d tubrng {D .tr' .

141ftnd srirch.ord.d lubru e,Lrr


r !!ao asrhn rh. fourhron hr)

6 {h Jrmd( or ,ht !ow.d .o'!


({f (h) ii Frs e re) hf rh. lor

or rcd{ing{lomdr h:.k nretrlr


sl,on5qn droqn( und.nrcRrhr

rgrnn 'ht .o.d,q of rr I o! tun

sdp b! a duPliah hDs'h (1)usnsa

lht|dtrldalo!i!ahoqrJnd|jxk

br' rct qhdr agai,s' rr,! or,r ^L,hc

up rsah{ rh. hhn. nomrnds


n$'h codeddbingsrn rpfropn

tt J
:

: JII

J ;

fi

i,J

tt,
Iit

,ill
1li1)

/!t1

ltlll
1t\lr
11\l

s L rf (i A c r : c o A D N G

lQ Quilting
aurLlNc BAsrcs

QurrnncBsrcs
I&ANifERxtNGDfstGNs
'ltoughlqjovsla${lrsa|

jouri'g \6rlLlsu'i\
dc5i3nodo Llr hhn. L.ror rrr rop
R bs,.d b rh. b3rins od riDi'rg,dr
H^NDAL]ILTI\G

!Lsa,

b!d.0vho1tb''1)rt'dB/rdh3

NrA.r
u\r aurlrrNc. .. .. .:17

VrirrLn$on rhr ighL 5d. or


,h. rq) ilrr rh. rrbr! h6 b{!

k, Lht kT (hc imge Nll

6. etRd)

.( uia

r ndrr{

dle ord uo rh,od or.lh.

LDG

dunigmtidsUaafaLn!{f.

ln.hins duDhLorus]l ro lAr

*ud

,r,. lat r ,l .rDk ,4n

b!rll.hernd.dopd

6urj
rtu Lhi d$!nh6 rlt d6'sl

fromrh. h pl,r oi rh. ror I


\mihl]is{l]nlLrouRh.d
ohicd.oin ould l.,.urour or

BAIII]\'c
L!!rb{tr,ninglid

bld1,.

sp(aL

h ing l* Lro.hrtlnu,f,t
rEd

k{dra

t !d

a nrio!

hnenedrirr rir.rrs ro rLr.hb.i.

Pob-

. rirns r t[0.nnishr.ds. Lons


u Nr naisltr I'is d' ar [ib!(

. ro qurLr
lo"c.nric] l[d*rh
on. oi bo'h elAG dr oi5lil8
D|. nu.[ 1odr ruLlk! rh!
\yidLho|lh.ms|iiDgun./r
(6Eo),'/! lr r!m), tr, (r.n).
r" (r. r.trD<!trroL Ll{ !F!

hn!e or rr0rd-hddr(drc aiion

Nts' h qulld $!ry 2" (tonJ r

vsha,iLjll Prohr!ms.
riurrrr

E\ilirD'.Ind qnilFL,k.conono(
0,ddlurJb.(nsd

fromrh.

rd <ho cuildrs. cui. llt ne

rod $Eddins vhi(h n dls hns


driLulLi!3k bE5Pi(d +" lr0.n)
rD6 (Ltotr) qin \rri'rrndvf.
ror iG PoruL

,! Lo\ roft rcsuhL

r" (i a'i) nrdfns*p*i.ons


si](tix]soal.rlrltry.ign'

!l\ 'mnlrn !ir. !ilI hddDsn

\rho, bPl J( rJL!. ur dr


Dor h 'N ftiiq! G @nihuos
h L L l l l sq. u i l k L l

aftn

,i,s' surh, n( iron\ onorr of

oghlhs

hold,h. hbrtr utrr.Ddr!T Lr{


ba

nriighrrlaa 'hnran r Dr.h.d


h rk naigl'llatr' or L|I ltbri.i
rk pomo! or nDrirsin LirrNn

.sprdrlr irrf N6hhg. tcrdi,s

ron rlt mdd. sLi roLd,

rn rr h irs{rh rrr dN.n hb


n6: (r) aurr asurLsqur,.or
brin!trrrlLo'B n 'hr D'$rrd
andride ti sPr(d (]) NrcNre rrr
qqhld lFplL

O) Pull.trlir. nLL.

(+r trtrffu rii rniP{r

\trh Lh!

6rd

(t) uiL!

dr ruL r(ntrLi!!

THEDoL'arE-BrNDrNG
EDGEFrNrsH

N!d!r (r(k)

Fis r rrdlris.

e m r nr h d L r s i F g t i i t r F o f l J r q
]if.lolBr]1uo|i*c\\on
r,s q rB or l].g! \\r) ri! qdrh

fd!.,1rIf,flrd rf d '1, r(N


r l ! 4 J j !o t i r o r d r r

i!drr

JorNrNGMoDUL R

UNr s

croo* of. oLlhrrolroqtrg

.ONCL{LTD

CONNTCTION5

ioPqulLhs /14 r.n) Iron rlr


(6nN)rropquiLri,sr' (25!m)
t !1r IEI

Pi! rhelbins nrd

TAP'/] CONNE'IIONS
or'he bp sdr nshr:id6 ogdlr
nls. r rlr.ds. (rll lrj{E) of'hE

s,ht oodnL( ro br jorrll

ftutri

und.narh. q,rh nshr sda rr.itrs


sv rl]c edgs of trlo rhdulcr

SIRIPPID CONNICTIONs

,r.,!d und( hr,nilnidrrLr.roLil.d


or r|[ *.ond nodrl! {Fis rot
L\o {Q5

riqhL ii'r$

fro!8.

rd

olhn$rs\id..,onsh ro hlL,nrh.

(Fis l0 t) rud quikDsu 'hc

.t
Fa la5 Sdppcdcanr@lar 13)Jdr
thehhs shp bTe lb)Fttth.sla.e behhd|he|ap!|ipwrhfud'njlackdd

H,rro Qt trrtnc

(rcrnh rhiDs o, r,sr 106)

-.t'l

i. ..I
''

:.'i :l

'

-:l:

:.ii::

ii

ir-

t:

',:)iit;'f;;rt

"*:

',

','
,l

-.':

,f,.

:1.:

Fs 147 D8ba3 tq ba.^ercund


ttte6

. oui, bord.F dul lanc

dr sou d.nsn(ru r0.3)

. 51ipphquikn,c(k) rn
Fr8 10.6)suroundsaisun

nndrns .i[($ aDdmoifsdDr


e hirquiring do tul turruLft
. E.hoqu,rbc(lh)b Fig l0 6)

r/ (6'n'n) Ld/t' Ocn) apdn

d anxdl

,ns.{
nng. nn'!i
nn.lrcsrn(d r l|[ Nor

nghr nJe of rabn ld hrs


(rder ro rransi(nnc D$q6'
o! Pisc,0u\\nh hbn! srfr
ftrknus. mak hiol burqsibt.
linesdrnbk $oush b sud$

drc.ds.s to rlr. {dr(

. Da'gG nnchednsbsPinrior
r cut rh. bai.n!andlin'nesli+L'
ly lar8{ dn $c bp. lL rh bp
s biaG 3. r{lurrbd (!dng
si-) N rh. banLn3ald lhil8
4"(roco) rlEd rll riorn For
emth hPr. rtdulerh inftise
4To]rd.rhbp.hrnDsaodl]n,
tr,o{ dr rr,. r,hrc G ddn (o,
or urilrNhbk).oru$r rriEe
,h.5Lcortherini,g(Fig lct.ll
sPrad.
s'iu.ft d( lmodh. rnd

hdh rioldrh. h\$ bsahcr


,rmPo0.il)qih mrsof lons
trdish' ph5 vhilc banhs rirl
. rhrcd .xtri ronslrng,hrdr

uDdso{,h ?ndrt:'{1G)
lr5!n),rd

or d.s

rhar

-)-_-f_1_

t. Follo! 'nc [n6 oI rbr qtr'lnng

J_-ai

Ei\i-fl',r':'
Xllitt,i" i

lhud insEd imo a 3hon,


bd$ren $w rhioughall rhl,r.

$f:ii'l'jill
t )

ii-i il-i-i-iii-i i-

#i;+iri.iii

--l- I i-.,t

ffii:l.
l\/ti)\::l

,_,_j j_l

{n.hs ,nrodr radd.drabncb


nE.nbc rhcdsisn ino tne 5u.
h.e (Fjgsroir. 10rz,,nd

li

N'l*;lg;;;a#

as. 10.11.(a)ra stadqukns, mke


(6m) bsth ot qukne r@d
Fi1,10.9'Pa@|dbasfuahe
bpbafrinqandrni@bg9lh.r
(2)squarcdatu (b)Ratuti@ and
carcentd.tnB (e)Pddns the
edg6t'|aldaqdrdbelinglhe
efulinircb|he3eafralldwa@

. Pin rill bros or ltltel.PlaL


td nal erd) piB, n2.00,
0,di1 shnalomrndof

11.3"r) ftan tu Me $ete sl:ilt.


rng|lbqinddhenedelhnuqk
pant. (b)-rusM thehread tapdp
thekaa|lhbUahfu|qbbdqen

-4,-.

c)@4n

(e)ar trehatite ta tund knobuti


titu h@d 36" (e15.n) tae. ke
spa(d + lr0.r) lpnt U*
r sEpcGunspoon'o hdp in
oubid.cds6 sid, ncdlc aDd

|iq6eheahe|hafiloquil|in
while quiling. plaa th( btLld
bdhardns,rin4 D a Imn. d

Rolllr*. qdl's a ro{sdlbsr


Lh.tull 6 .on'hucb6rhg rr
rhr quLllingdaign
G ,lMdl
nark.d on rhc b! uy b bsr

*nhor hns srddug

lurd

-/r

i. adhhs

rEE6 armd

rarsesitd quihirs pnjd


bpa[hMhD8
F rqdr--ro.
qn' r losiion trul Lheqal'
ins i5 rbGhcd (Iig L0l{)

waEar4@rb)

dsigr bdbr. bahg rM !d


,hs hh the {n. rtrd drx

><-@Fe@4q&
do* bsftrs Enr r&.s,!'

/tr-F-"-,

( ( . .

)
in dhndss

troo r0,1l5nn)

Fiq1a13hs{U@qun4rda9
at a qufti@ rne: (a) Knat tha th.ead
th" (1.3m) tm tb tuna6. tb)
lfuneefu|hrcugh|hebatipand
8:bnngradhahE'lenglha||a!,
(c) rus he knd inb he tuttu| cul
the thead fiere t entu6 td) ro
M|ha|hybackgibnsbb|hefu*
|h.a@h|hebathq'b|ingnoha||.

Fa|aDFuFningslfuedqbnq
G) rhe hid u@t d theszw)re
'ac's|heneefulh|aughlhe|apbL
tng4ni@whchhphchedbwafu

sudaa (b. d) thg din

at be

(n sdins aahet .tuch viut a pel

enped intaa 2s173hn) haap


.funqe|aahaf.bleh@en

r6op quilrhs is poirble:rd

nvdy rM phhd rhed3$. rf

wnh danPhs Prcr oDeside

runovcr1lbirns d,dd LxlcpL


rhedrerd insidcrh. *Rn

L! b{k unril Pradicep.rle6 $c

nushwirh tht in.d up r4. of


thebP A$obh quilrd mod
ultsrdSdh&lehs oDeor Lhe
ncrhodsdacibed h !oiri!8

lic lih unbrmpd


pu.k.ry txrufl

nkh6.

I'r dGLirgunhd

covr rheedg$ol? ffnishtd

uid 6 rhconlyquiklnsnir.h
bdryh\.|sftncd+ilttngIurc.

mdrtu {wn. doubLdbhd,dg


(reb ro '1 hc DoubkdBinding
fdee..in!h- on Posc207).o.

s ufd ro quiLt,hc nejonry of a

bp qr'm d'c bpaahMd,

comrorNhenlurriry ihe rhard i5

NorE5 & VARradoNs


Nodc quilrss oftcn tcd duNJ,
kks. ren'ouhr ropAa'6s/.
lirins ton ft lDop b.rw..i
L.p quil'ins lecds tu ]xpl

ard one hrnd undcmslh, tr*

!rdk. Llhic[ G Mnrtrvd.d


ry 'he orherh3nd.Lepquik

or dE h3n,labor. *trh rh. hand


bclov lhm rraft or hoop,tu uns
r l'rL pm'rr ooroarlr rhe
rdtrry, bur r uk r dedrcrredqTe
nna tu rhicv. ln. ftx ladr

surf,ceiroomuchrhrad rision
5hdaers,nequirtcdfabnc.s.oc

{1.5.n),.oudry onb rhenirh6

sdFP[ry,i5heihblc rtz(n
|hLh.d3i.6imPonad,add3'{.rynee'Rn. lorsl.nk,g. wh.n
dting th. hbiics rnd b{uu.
Dsisls wirhshor..los lirs

,l handquilrirs Thi!. softbnnng


rRyd.dbdNrcn rlrn, sort fabn6. :

quilre6 ro ntsonat Analr:t lhc

andesr ro. rhr nrtdk ro slip


,hDush, L rhn(ssry brsctor

n'nequhng p,rh Ifrhelhc hehs


out, *oor thc ntcdl. $rcugh rhc
utlhs ror n*rbyliiErexhabl.

p,rr orthe:6rhdc. Unifomfty


sndpi.bnar 5uibbilitr arc rh.
md pd

rr bp4xnhsnhiis

rrr do,rr ldvding a koce.ald

h,r

beEndiidcd i,ao enill

handqtrilrns rpprc.ch* the de!o,


sk r,m.rul {dr.i'8 tooLstikt
nnninsjrft.h.d qultus bu' lne
DedlcdioD n drrdm fd pn
rcii.d lt sh. quitleE rt! an
ambrddrss aldriry: wnh the
bP,Ening,rh''u[.lhfud
hdop.rle handabovtpushc rhr
n*dr. {higbr dos! rhrcughrhc
nrdle our ard. mond fownl by i
d.h rc ftqE the nedr iDb $c
rining,pushing
tr shighr uPlor $e
hrDdrbovero rcd.v.. .nd so o!

NrYdquirrlons.rnishr tins
mrh leqrhy the& 'hnr could
sn,p undd hrurc srdn nirh I
shddipan of $e linun,l dH vrn
r rnc n.aqr o,lu quil,iie nqa

l(lesb aprdin r|t qnhing {i.hs


nonqble k!o6 and riLs ol rhud.

Qu'hry an lE blftd b i p.hon


or $e 1oplabnc n'c bauiis du' prrs
& {6 shdrld b. d,in and/orpulltd
dd slrddca aound L\e <kd b
d\indle od eBduJ\ odr.Nc. dr
linE$hse r lbps nRr shs s r ndge
$ilttd
bp,r

qh linhs. or lh. 'hc .nd


brne 6 Pdbus\ d&nh.d

od5.$r drlqdn
n appli.dd 'h!
b.gd]i'EnlhoJundE@do|'lt
trph

b dd id idrrhbr. ro wndr-

mod'drsi.d

lePinif$![Etbdshg{s9f...

piEn 6) crry fic quilrilg de'ED


h tu lrigc ot rh. Ltdnr nEtuL 'ht
*an aLlorunct and 0 l c qu'hD.r
blneb d'ca tdg.{,
rnn rhc b!'
'ins ftu'n rlrc sum rllo'ana befot
,un$g (ltele' ro Fis r0 rz roi
F(Jld h4d 4!i'iu.

pncduE

quilEd hsdhr w'$or . lilq ot


h4dns in b{N{n .a i Es'Lr rh.
{rklr rl'.fdt $c runftsjdrhd

Prej!!ts shtr wd a

o) \skb$s dss. snoorh 6c b.*


ha up. over rhebdrlrl8 A'u!l' d'r
nr bsEdr{ {i,n enouglrdn.ad d
d!L) rd tsdis ro prrm ft badns
lsn nnDling anl sdchbs Junn8
tudn& (2) \\i'h 'he edgc .lLsn.d.l'r
'hcbPtid'i6ielasdt|d]rlhc
lhg'orhtLi]iruAdi|gyalhhc
$v rouDd dr d*s, hruC e. .or
rcrfr'hNod'l[td,gdulsdth
a hrtan op.nins larg sough itr
uningoDomshighndsd}5dld
'ht lhio3ldlis si,lcor 'n! oplnE
on Ih. *i,nlint pR$ knEhrsn
rLlownes orm. dr ill coruE dago

Lnr grdlikc i,anner dEhlhrd nnd'

rer rrng s N.nrd \nh tai Fqr


hEl hn horhs.dh{ $c curYr
srdy dnlk klad,s rbl. torsil
rrkE of idt0l lil.s of dinDq b6!
nng ( l) l,Eparethe ror. bdlh3.
rnd Lbins rith efErr.pin bsd's
(2) \M1h Lhcq idrh dl 'l't 'dp{r:!
dlg4dhgspudNlm,Fieq{L

!* r tnplat srl hoL6rospdLhE

w
.",.&
(.)
&4
Fd 1e17l4ry@@pheb
Mjbq'd.d'futt-h@ly@
tu (d)tri@ he d& wtut @ 1
sqEe M le) Ptdite ied at a ti
lotu6 Md, a dbsonrl ft,ld i 'h!
dE
l[ft dd h, : sBo{lLqrr{
ranft t nr ih fold Rr ii,LduLl' nLgcs
roflnns md ngh' sds la.ing. 0d
hs k, 'h ratrl
G)Pi,rhrhN,gh
\\l$ ft s@n 1llol&. umrd uid.r
Lds5trtrh b mdft
dm3r, ir rrr.
rs ,o *(m d. hindbs (Fis L0 tB)

(rt!m) ap'r i5 a rdddr rlutr.c lor


qirs o) Fd! tl? !n h6 {'d d5.
ddd prlc .okn, .mbrcidcq flos,

dk D.rptndtuhr h fte su|Ja. Fttk!


$! 5lirdr6 r {@r ,/ (6@) ,ft,

FQ,1a16'|apbanirgrnircpr@ea

,)ms uil d $t brsiinrns ($nL ]in


or ibbor
hc f(dh. nEke a nnsle
nich) irc sd qm bc rd. qr
," (t r.n) or moR hon rht knor.
rtul ldl lm* b ganish JE bp, oi L\e
endsn be dsl h bolk h Nhih !a*
L\ebPnirlbcdhPllr]}ihptrlkd
'nr.

O) tull Lhcs{lopc

nsh' idr dul

snddLhd Ldp'o 'h{ lLi'nei6r'itrg. or

riiiig bidirq ts an N.o'npLi


otd cds. fnch arrropn'E ro! a dd
'q1il( (r)rnE rbftls
nun' *i l
rh. rdgc ol fit top Tun th.exrs
tnEoq'Ic.dgcb'n.fon(Fn
denly for bindins (2) Pcpart 'ht

Fa 1013. la) L)nirs bhd@ ptdiaqarat, tatdedeatnet lb) ood


Mybsecurenj|eh:s|opi|.En|
s|lcdhqa|aehednJbziqzag

,.'i,,"..r,",,!",r'

I ' T\ D

Q]

LT \

I,r!!rjr;r)iF

FiE 1a 1e eeqhund at owQn tusisn


edquttuE la, b, c) staisht ald srshtryeufrire het ate
ha saead b dbp {d e t) 4ndedanddeeplt.wed

Fts. 1o.2o Batdet dsigre: la. b c) tuchhe


sude qJtuitq ld, e) Free mtd qunihs

MAcHINE
QUILTING

PRocTDURES
tnh0c. 'lt p?ddtd ndnc.
shrn inr.ibed dth nircr,i,gb),
nd Jnd nop r rlr dgc, ard
rins,hiid$lnhc o, Iill wnh r
,nrrnuD drDrroal noPsnrd

nabilted(roferro H irs on
prg. 206) Macbinequiilirs
dc{gB.r di .d h,o bad{s,oun.l(fis. l0 l el.bor f
andtiluGrilc
G+ 10.20),
(Fis r0 zr). rod subdivid.d

2. Curhbri! hsiarorrh. rop,


,ddDF an a|lo\?nc. for s| tr!
ldp ur'rr a hbdc.s{e orrLing
1001'trd
. r,idrbd lisibr.rin!
Ponb6 or tl[ dc4n rlnr rir
tlsund $d cperd. r imlF.

o, no m rnu (Rdir rD.r B


rtrq D.silo, on Pisr r0r )
t brgks

xdut'bel.lq {hs

1" Oo!m)rars Ju JouDd f0

a sPEadrhf linDsour.ngh,
{ihllhbl!Lxr3(obqhb

suPPon
?llolnor olrlr hb
n(squnnofi.luJj(wo'l'
4'.i h'l!r, fr ir ,t rh.J,,r.n
4i'n[llt!'d(l'bJtplig

&s$n'D{k'|g:f'fbNh3

rndm6.du,!rrb.r{e nr.hi|s
ffchirc.quirrd suni'1c.bu il

niy b. ipPmPnie rnPlorl*d


nrhft
quil,nunquG rLtrrc

buldos raPn hbdn]8 dirrs.

Avoid bdting qhere quildng


lin* ft rurked o! dud.d
II rh! hhl bp c sn,ll.r ln,tr

ft. m,r. rhinenEiing'oP.


b3ft

in *dion1

Epahg

rhenrekhhg,nd <

dns

plam.d ror th toF Relnk 'ht


nachheqn.hinsn lhodb lh.
elly movinsrheroFTbdring/rin
norcment of rheroP4driienti
in8 und- the ddtus needr
a.o!.all, b:.kbund. andbor
d( daigB frrh sftighr lir6.
sngl6 :E rhemonsuihblr for
(r) ooolr a pBq rootdB'
$. quildng linq $i

E6.

suE dis0ne, Lrstr.hsp,t


q G E{rud4 .nd L\d
ticuh.lr whn ,ruihhglii6
aEloBb rre 10 13)
Fiq 1021.D$isre in he mtin qtjiins: (a)Flqmttuemtits tu srbt
laa!.sEl]En@|lo|gMngla'|lbhbe
desiy. (b)t@!i,ed nends ,tuhks tot fltar k) Echa.qlmedspiat
allheadsha@'|hiry|a|ise|lman|lerd|k:hhg|i119|'

pa,ldedsurlce 3,1,n&
vithiD dE brdns Eight
b t2 sraighrnirch$ p{

6l'E
6 .llning. arhch
rlc .dsa ol rh. lining 'o rh.
rour sidcbrF ot rhc fnnq
rd nrekh bdwe! sideb$

b cenrer rhc b

ins ov{ rhe lin

up. ovs rhe b:fting Thftad


bsrt Ein8 a lons or cured

I6ren fte lalcE rog.'hd wth


$idr piB d 4" (lo.nl inr.r

Fiqla26Pdnglheldpbatnql'

rr, aqtrtr!r'itq dnL<r


keaps|heb']katlhelqhatnqln'
( r) Lu\r

'hc tNd doaso, .n.

.rG.lnhLglanlhlnh
Mxh 2nd6 ad 10th,ateh, B )n

|aqDs|adbve|a@jnalaraw2
b6trdbP/nltrlg/|Ld!]s

crPotrrn dr o/ofurt

parens ta) stth h6 acrcs


thecentetr 61 tb) srbh abel

alrlr NC

, e

bn$bs $. norftN oI
rhelalnic roa gn lMl nop.
ffl,iilolthtdasi!!lih

b. k.kas

trnu'ng
'o iLdlr clipil

v--a

Lr"|6s rht b/hihgrhi'r8


hrs suppon.i6 Lleish,ndll
hhdslhr ProBrc\Ycmdrr

nuiocquilKl r,PA hs/

ht qls

i,rtinhs

rorhrnghroirh.qnrrring
liNr
scun drcroll $rh 'mDr hnr.
d! dirs orer{r ph5 .dld
,n3.hnmdbesEn rhercll
fufundn'dlol'ftdop/bll
thg4hmgb'htpr:CNhe]e

(l)su( by holdjngon 'o rl'.


endof rhemedle
rhR:d

quL'hgGbh.gnAlihe

Fig1023'Fa||reelalanquhng'
handsdie.l|he|aplEnirglirirg
ftps clt tnn tutuat otorestutp ti

rhrcuehthr rop/bartr'p/
(ts1g.10
nq).R! pkkrg. s

drhbn.undctun*dk
lins qirhniidrs rhxrtr.
rod(ft rh,ladbynirch.

l.nCrh b Lh! de!(d

al'{in! rhennish o$ird

,r,! fins.B, o ir the f'bri!

!a

(2)rdlnJalh.orqdLllng

xnhrr rh. hbn.. fi"dtrdr!


dcoo* r]t nrd, lcrsrl,

Tonimge l,+e. bullg: nr!hi!.


quil'i'upruj.ls r|[liincr
spac ,!,ibbl bd\tn dr n(
Fs 14.4 @ La@ bptbatun n.
i@rcle|lan|lchpe|lw|hbillcle
ctix to ho nqht and dded 10be

,o ,r lrr, or rhenehinewirh
txtnsions. prledbly lcEl

qDtuhs@)raatbadinsttinids
aeat
di@roddhba@egebhabh

NorES& VARrArroNs
aurc tf bl'llr

DsnrDs rqxrud

nnn.iornnmg/LhgD

FimoRrb/6rdng4h

rhe LnrirF (r) rEnd$! rrr


{ndK; G) Lft dr rtrr
r$ tu{dhq rod (r) quilL
|]'h.frl(bp/bdn4'1D'

Hit

r,
F-,

Iti::

LrI

ffi')

rdLs$fll.[ngl'oL.pirtd

,hs ro ,he r,nirs. o) $v


Lh!b[i'B/li!4nnlq)

b,h| *nrn n]Rdrqurlr

la) DMe he bP, banhe, and rdne


hta two s@.iansandjojn l@thsf
ahet quttu$ the tid sedm. (b) cul
he barirq tnta tutva (at thnd, and

i,g/LiDns , {tNmds

a f,!s&

n'ddrl! Ll" (:105on) qurr


.]glhrD.lhlnov.f]on<lgi

bihnanrnnrs. Nd (+) quil,


Ja}dJogl'ng]hQdnal!lLa'
nurghr lN filtE bc,w&n rrguri

nldhs fu

n o\rinc ro rht

rx/,intd n lornr's !odtrl.r

mdhire|4I|ongllltdol-

ad. ro Th. Doubl! Btr'dtr'g


[d8tFnish onFsr207) or
d$io $ lu{,(FL3 xr:rr),o
Pr!.n, r]I nrdrirg ar.r nnnk

atril' \rnritrr\rrutrlL L\plitu

rr.c. nr.hi,s lonnlonia t lNs

,ir.,lErd rr nkn,s.Ir,uL dr
r4djui ro a mw 'is-

sfr o' 'hr

kd{ b .t

lrtr sAnms (riis t0r2l NtD

1,s! e. N, dr,r rdhods nr


,d l!\s

,lE Piitr bn .B

isr

(l) sr{ b:rlr uJ ddr nrnrosopi.


nnch.s rDL,n"irnnl bcfoc ifLirrlnd dtrr io riis ()) oi 'rtr
r.pdrlLrhslJe 't r r.nls olllr

ho

rnd{{s.ddot0i*

ro.Ii

Ns m,l \ ci+r. n bnh mDrlh

rnaiL.d nr

10 r 6J$lts rin. n rrr

n
p4
[-1

? 4

l-r-- - i

rf -=- \- -/ .-

llKi

bs( urd {ndrins 4

diffqtDr r,on rh,dilhrdrbr

M]

ffi

Fs 14.2 la) A'bbT t6 and


lb) tab ennedac baied b the rchl
afua|anadDbb|.pbe|e3egrnq
lo|helrirghanhgf\ned'ightsida
rcad A) b re ot (d) srq baehel

d ipponmr

.f {rm; rnd folil

rRkoth]ngol|)''heliis/,litrg
\th $c hcrtuB5ntrh$ (FiB r0'')
rh. h

roPs.L i"g and lini,s fo, tb: {c


*L 'o8dht.l.xvhg 'h. 'op ?dgr
Iahi n& N' Mrhitu qut' sr{
nuld) foundadon.dosingtLeol.n
iles in rhPocss (.ig ro.r4)

h/hms

n o or3n'6n

i1u B.,noddft.diqr\r 0) Prlnr


d6rsn for nnps of t?5r.. (l) For

$! bsqh. (r) (ut nnlrs ofrhe


.llo*anft s. (1) sbnins (nrallr
orar rh.l.ft cdsc,lar,h! lldnnp.
kinmld bsi:c. riqltr3id! lp dtr

Fig 1a3 la) cpmwkdsisft


ld) tackirstuahd.nod 6los9tbal
l.) Assenbtednn|nodut$ ||ith

Es. 144

la) DxQr: td tabbedea\ttuetare. (b) sewhs and quirins a

hbs b 8ilhs (c) tunBJ inside $hk handstithks (d) arctNad uhdq ldp.
srbhrns, le) eLpht hb searc, at o eov,4edMh zisae st:bnirc.

(1) Plac 6r nnn :r ovcr rlr $!


*!rh. tourtabin nripsa li'i3 Lo3crh'(r) oP(n.P.t$ aod
rlt.xarrioD ol ft nnrs rhd

qUhg3hj6o|]irinqandbp|ab|ic'
stbhi@|ha|rsInceabdanfu|h

,b

aadi')dd

ddso4at t @ rri\ed

rop ol 1i,. baft,3 Pri(

'"F

p)r1n4

ba

ab4 .a-",

Lhl s(ond

buirr.ftd! fbu miio,- {nr+


nripsforrlretur nnFolb ing
\{ith4j
t|[ !d3s b be fa'ned
hgdhtinid'lhbLl8hJlllaFr

(5) opn r& {.ond sup rnd


hgh'rr D6i 'ht ram. (6) conhu.

bdorslr.hrg (L) trlgDbl b6Lh3 (hetid olft rhre.rarsrd


dgrr (1)$

rsh' sidsLlins.

aanunil'h.rrahe/hhlsdr
(Fi3 l0 ri) (7) td

'lE 'nodulcs

trdhodi d$dh.d il .lornins


rinrh rh. .dss w{r ddubtd bi
hg Gcfu|Lo"Th. Donbr.&ndDs

liBl l'ninsnnP setrrhemd.Lrnrs


dssola tuurrablcsdp5and
rhc bdrins losc'hd (:r) op.tr and

,''i:,
,'

t
t
t
\

vvvv\

^4..a.1A.,r

:'/1//.aa/

ll Stuffing
STUFFINGBASICS
sr!.fED arrrrJN.

SIL"ID

SrurFrNG

APPLIIU!
ru.nd lolDLtiri5os rlnalkd
r.)

NrNd

k, rrlldo'r,Giss

ins qunEdor arPliqucd5hrPs


ro suide lulls' oI nultds
trp of . n.rds

STUFFED

bol lonBlooush 'o

r ih uodld qrruE. r
s, $diw
blurrd lunug iedk or sk$..
d"jnhtrcdFP(di|oht!

PRocrDURr5
stuiirs la) Datn)nelhe edees
4. lb) overcan and te) hehrabne

p$ln|gnu]]ingagdnnlh.{ann]

piat fo .n|h?s,\ \trh {ufiloq

or hl,ff rlu' h6 h(n ar b 5i{


GEftrb hnndhngDcisn''
0' l]g! l0t) B& lrr DirLad
roDhhn. ro hnns hb ,doaql
ne b md. ldjr<ni

nunbs ino

llnruglDur Modd LrisL{dtI Ions


Glsrtd arulLqu..oll5. sisqLa.
puk wl sll.s) Mh |n'sc prs
surc on rnc ouGid. r \dl 6 stu{t-

$ilrd

tr rrPltFel

shaP$ q hrlf.

lor .onsnor numng nFnhu$n

.nousr ror rr d.rtion F suFlYc

rioDhbi. $nh lnnd $Dg

(Fig rL r)

stifetJ qdtltns.tuiqts atie

shges: lo eadet. (e)Gndded

olru'irr5Jlri

iktuL

NoIIs r V-aRrATroNs
tor rlr! d$irn ir-i.\
Nr.rdlN autlls

rh!
on

n(Llr,,hf hLrr L! i boor o

n,p.:. {Etf

rtL!j

dBao irLg LL t

thnlhL

HrnLnr rhr

Ards$ i,nl op.nns' { q(

sputrntrrt a.tlicr"s

rdd , r o,rr

linil]g and finm tr b

nuficd (.is LL+) Ifir!Pndid

( ( . 1 L n t L lgr 5 ) L ' r l r f s r
rusrrirs b trJro Lh \ s] ! tf
'hr h4 brhDlrrhnrq(lrrd
vdk r $duLnkrR' iLln fg
\,Lh
sh,inkisrrrd'ni$

ler

b fth

tr,l,ll

o,hs iNid! rh.

mddithelirhA'hldtrgl'hols

rrnrids in ,hl {ebn! ru'h r !*


Jlr thr\ hlq!)
rrir 11'!

nn.hhg. bdbr rhr m.lnDg tr

tornuffiq ((h)i,.ig L!5)

n,Nrrn,1r, (o n.,3 rr i)
suidd rdhod ol yi,n nqroo

rc rr

Fis 11.5 ro lun srbhins-autinett sh@es undebcbbtl: la) stuh hmsh


apeni@ brced be@n thteab h the @ve d the dns (b) PaDseto dDfl
betuen the tay$ whte sli.hiret LnEhslr.hlre ztd 3tuhne 14 Pad wth

mrkdn?prao iLJIrd

R.xEEd d'rr.d {uirrhs n N.

rtu mng ldr ol 'h. lining AI'{


of fabr! sluLqb6rins bascrlr
rDpovd Lh!ldns rhe rp Iabn!
nc& ro ridgc ovd 'h .dss dI rlr
oulln]ingl lul fdlldw\l|thc 'dp
orrr rheourrinshu ,Lsorhc.oloF
quihnsn.alkd sh.do* quihing
risuis{i rbqtuund J
bkkgFuod$mponedsbenefii
non rdrrt&r!r,lJ.dq kiis.ab6.

Fb 11.7(a)Dsisn tat byeteds6ed qdtirs M atas hnbeted h


adnnehstud lb) crd6 ir tayatrl

FI!11.6,Layfusfufldquihre
qnurd dnead ta) th3 ha,1heek
andthebseraatat the@Mk lb)
The'qigglesljn|ave|bpheCide
(r) Toprcpatu'hronsinnd$icr.
numbcr'h hregrcunddupc
Numb{1hniddk srcundshrP$

{ill app* ld bt b.hhd rh. fdE.

rh. dup.s. ({l cur rnd ptu amftcr


Pi.(oflinjns larss th?ndr *l

frq b. sFlnirb No L.vds,or

*2 shrp$ whd $rchhg ri od

brkground slxDs *r ' Ahft


nuffls. thse 5h!p6NilL,pptarro

5hnP{,
tur b theber(3ndconriD.

rh. design{1) Trxr rheda,s! on


'n. nsh,sidcoIlh. bp {:r)Pin
'n lnins.d ll't{ Lh,n:llrhr:t
shrFs und.n.arh lhe d5iBnwi,h
,h. ,r 3haP$ s1ufirhroughdts rn
rlr lhhg d {hmtrghop{h8' lefi
bdo( finishnu ac du in nn.h
i'g rrim (hee\ces rinint around

utuilrh. ourLimh notrrresun$.


whm nuffhs .xrnd dr nrftmg

bilrsmund le!k EN rlr rufiiru


sFu shipG ldr rh lnr,g
{ound rhe:r shrP.s(i) Rtp*r

a
;i

!
:,

I
;"i

1,-1
*

5 T U F F E DQ U L T N G

l!

STUFFED

dnon.,ndd,i,s r& ?tl)li$e

APPLIQUE
Ran:llonifc

ro rr [{[

rlll)

PRocrDL,Rrs
s u d t . f o r . u r o u 6 ( r r sl L 8 )
s'nh : hLri. sfc mrlci hcc
Fis 1110l', b,.) Mottappld h

orroundaiofrilir. L|t( hrs

aFplntdrows thebas edseora


nutths.nnnLi?.rhclortrdr,on
iplliqt i, flaa orDn hon

aPrriqu iL,ricrnd !r oul

illona!(

anoMnes sn@th\': ta) cip .ar


.ave euNa and tb) ndtchcn@'
.u!A.|h|eNa]sstwingshda|
r\etoutine lc) crp ireide anstes
btherab tne ld) r2pettnn ta the

nouDdrrrctrx.d
dr bklebhd

nr.rr.n b\ trudrir,.ur

on ,ht f.t!d

drrin$.

adding

4Prqw rFi bul

app\'I. Ir.3ld'nd rrf liqu.


or rrrbrlqiN

r {rriqurvLLh

rpprLqtri!
!!u! (Fnrr !r)

,i?9,

p"Nn7z-q
Fig'114DesilE|Usfuledapeliqu1
app]ywlhs|tfrifuhda,relh

, '

*ry

ta) sthBuchhs 'n dpptqa ltwdnas

*1
(b)bddde
chirs an appriqui ph b4
delak6|inysrbh6h|au7hhe|ald'alEmlkgdlh|inys6esl+ough|he
|aundalbnhfue'lafu|snchirglaaksjikrunni@slbhs'

wllnlwlrl

, 1

a1F sz s
4

?rF

s%#%
srbhinaanaprrbu6:ta) fun car
fusea|ch$ae,lhebujldqo|

\|hehtains a canet at b) an
ircitu anste.ld) Bandsuitu thenee
iEezrgle'al,aysB|Uni@|aa
l) swivd ||h tu needten the
tundaid tat otu& rutues 0 wlh
4 sruftrrictrpprnL,Lc
iftl] (i.fd
k]'sllling. otrpag.],]9):
. r n k r u p lL r r r r . h g 0 r t r f

ns,rrf roq,orDd iPP,qn.


,s 1112 Optiaretq mhtu 4ptique (a) satk
ehb'a)derytooLlb) stbh Mh a Maow zi4s. (c)

Jrh r(r) f Fis rr Lr)

xpplLqut'hrcushasliLlur tnro
appriqu.(b) i'r ILg ll lt.
HaDd$s ,hEoFnin!ds.d

NorEs & VARIrloNs


shaPslorafP|i]]u.F]y|j.*
d.lrcatrd itrri.ft aik ikh'
lury shrrP sr.rd( poin6 rDd
'lc$mrdv0816gihmtnu.
$maLtollRncptrs
tu sEi.
$tdD||cng.sinplll.dlhrpa
$'nh iJlqu{l fam ,lo\"n.* nL

ftd1) .x(ud whdr tu nlrGhd


ondud Juplisrrs,h orisnul
andpoinllor po,rtiwhN all m!.d
odrh* m rn!*iLlqdn dntads
ufdrmerh rhr nt ynn.h.d
!dg$ or rlr arpliqu6i and!l,cn
t|tfl{nddoo|rcuDJ1h{$I1ly
Jndk{L'drclainslsdign
dhEsnFs I|,n ?rf liqueis too

t rzd d!{ n,!ir,ryLqr. trr.


prcrcnbl)
simple.
rnLsh'.+ed
5haP5 onro fab,n \!n[ i ldd!.
s$yq and cDr4. ill nound whri

haDdld Alr, $ins a hlgt


Qpl\ui r rhe foundrion. dnide

is\ \rh {nishr nt.hi,s. lollo{


ing o!,li!cs facd oD toP. B.tore
hrlhhc \eah ard dry rhc.n.n
lohdruo!tmlouEgcflr|nu
fc.t)cd edseipl)LrN. bu rrsr rLE5t
rhrn ,ardrd rPptiqu.: !|Gltr

r5prcbn
l rhtftlor..dyd
!,rLd oPPri4n.
G $E.nu'
ofrtr
rr !!denr ssd

0nlRq?rh. prkrn

Ghn) a a(Dnd, cveDl.$ itrh.


hrnL i$

mn ,o ,ht roldqi r
nftish'sEh

'llou ancs. rr.?.rp,pfi


p, rpoo
rior ,*u6 rund .ds6 dr .fr

Fie 1115.ta) sturins app@led

pelab|h|a!ghopdjhgsbbedased
whenthe ced* ctcte is 4diqudd
lb) stuttins liB cabt dtde hto,$h

sidcl, rhc fdutrdNrcnandfin


aboY. rlr hbn! rnd all$! ro
qn and dry b.lon osins Linc
a !trn!d-aPPriquidsign dN

.ds$. .ur tr ,nu.h ol

posiblc whdr ic{rs rd ftc un


cnl,rgd oudrne on r|t foundruor

shouLdb. nioorh .nd \ trhod i(


ou,on r lDr He4 hondihc

ippliqu! tubnc cur ot.


dins r
*an xlowirc nound rtr cdgcoI
rh. ldsr ofrhe p:pd. ruh rhr 560
,Lo\?nc. tu ,he hekaDd pres
Iim\, For apphqutrb be!trffrd

Fq trKrcd 4d atlJ.l apptiqk.


turolftorhdDg

drded,4:

(r, L(r
Fq.1116 D$b'a tDtdarkedand

'hr.tr'rt

d {.r

ri

nL,r.,rdpfriqnsFu tronon r!
Dg iri Pl&! 'h! liN'3 0\o 'rr

L.is Lr L3l hn' i,shr 'dr 0r


Ll( '!LLll$L rppl'qui. (lJ nncLrtLre

trmlL:ld {{tqu.

Gr nLtrli (rr

l{.}
-w-

|h '+rt!

0rr!L

nult ishtL\

looa appliqaI E ror n]l.rli


rppl{f . {trllrns,lrougr orni,sr

9ptite

,ld.d

d nrttirl D nsnfdr

'Dctuth ht-4Dd l'Pdth

rll

x]4fu|pl@gewrh96fue
fm4 e, e r@5rufi4 @i@E5sbeb@
pBMd

u''_'fed e4Md

e6ftiB

S T U F F E DA P P L I QiT J

!+&i!n
oppr@dh6 dridtdhP bI
ft od sb dMg ,' hlde ne i{
Mr.tah efawddie@tuttu
4i k a. ft e5d tu stuFr dNrhn

xLe rqrej.d
'tul
Jss tu Je ,,! !'4

e st\te
4 & &re

l@&bi9digseiopeMed.u!,
6 h tMd@
nP tsmad $@s dir
dpp* b epe ft
sd@dd
tutd

ELEvATED
APPLIQUE
'h dri;nl d.\

ongndnue!rd,!PqlB(Llr

GATHER.ELEVATED
APPLIAUi
rb

q/ salhe is ih

on cndntr,!

EdrsoNm ods (ris r ! 22)


nlfr nto ert-

GUSSE'ELEVATEDAPPLIAU.

Fi|11.22'rgered'end!fien||fu|

PnocEDr,Rrs
ho3hL!otrrt+,r simPl,i'hc
brd.{ior

de|a|ed2pp]lqt.rheeancaved7e

(F,3 l l 1Lr).d

{,s' ! lTy!fLhr dsgD r. ro


Lik Ll,. dtn{6
ll[r mL b. d.

--\

L-l t

\ -ll,/

r Lhcrrc(F,! | lr)

a'r

tl

,/ at
L/ \!
L

/'\
I

\ .;.;i;.;;
I

;-<-

l
-,,---<

i -

Figll19Arargennsa|stean

Gwe,
oltr.ll

r b! 'h dficrcDc

ds

1126 la) Ap|iqte

b 6e dev2.

tb) Apptiqu,; s6hed and sp@d


\|th a Ine that 4ha8

onc ri& q R

adi!(d

i.ls.G),q [! llo rLJ k] Lt'!

Fie. | 21. ta)ladtpi

to be ekvabd

(b)Apprqle sr'shed atu sped b

h b! dod!J.

5id$
rl\ !d(n

,Lr. sidd!

he atbi

LobLlLsdlJb\

,df(\) b h{ d.\d.d 6 rh.


il nnD) tLon' Ll'! uppDtr!
e\prnd dE sid!(n h r dc

llu onsmlshall nr rlt p si


b benrcd on nr toundrLotr

oD'hc tl{rnl

snhorrh. sus(

Fig1l27D,4hhgaquselfu|eb
skshnq and spteadt4 ih't side al
he tian4e la mabh the stevated
edgea|lheg6se|.alhal|hefoo

ofrouDdriorhb'ir Llrtrlr blor

rflf

iw|qu!

onllDG drro

rtu!. aPpliqu. ind gN{r

qr

hrrn! (oPhonar:trr(,rr

n?r

r,n- r!r[)

cr otr on ,h

srE rh! d.\rid ?tl)Lrqu6


r

.'lrqsrheTprqb.aulinebils

( F i sI r . i n d i r s o , . r - b

Fb 11.30.ro qprqu-t a tund eah

nrlhbs Lh..nds bs(ho

ca'hFleLbd awliqu6 ofird


nul hlgh{ L\an th. nnicipftd d.
urion prd.dir\
if $e ruffins ts
houndd in rhe corti An iPpriqli
8arh.ftd all areund Ni nuf nno r
mundrJ rom ro LeePfie middlc as
nn 6 posibl. push &e nutrls
dbg

rh. cdss rhn d4ors s h

aknough nuftlns nrdihs thr ptr.r


dD8 soh.r'hi ro subdu. lhc
pu.kctug, fprart haod sarh.nns
lnh bobbin $ftid sRrhdhs:
MR.hine5d.h or'{ rh. ouddc otr
rhc rpphqu.. laftcr ford on rhe
sdhenng sdrhs. .nd l@d qv to

athwe
c1Dpedb anawsewhs ta
heeqesdacjrc|jarapDliau-6rhe
al|hebase]ircedqeo|llregBfub

boopoLlhft

lalgt enoushro

,xrd aPPritlu6 rhrcus[ dic


.ur 'mo rlr. found{ion tld ro
. nckhardPh rl[
g.s df rh.
louftl.ridtr Loa Pzdded$dic.
rhEraM.r:llor b .dol ,nd dry
apphqut d$is!. bding dr

ro pr{ry. rhebowd.finrron
oli su$fld$?bd
ron. push r!
$r.d dga aM rorncGup rnd
du {nh rumns Dn.h rh.m dk!
sn ftn8. Md flnrm and snDo r rn.
ioP d sida \!nh dqside P('
surFoi lill up Rnd oPPed roo
$nh a shdt of bnriu ind finEh
Nrlt $uf ie liilernE(h. U* rh.
roundnionsh.Pe,o lur eroush
ol rh. d.v{ido r,ck rht hyrs
roserh*roo$ly wnh oedl,nd
.ppl'qli 10'he lounddionsnh lh.
baning ni.k Eide ro Lantshsh.!
b r][ sunic fibrt. Pu5hnulfins
btn.a$ l]t hRidnsrhfttrsha sln

lcn3d ol the comour on rrr nnp

Fm snran.lor rclicLrppliquisdr
.ppliqu6
h d 16l onenn de
urd cdg..!trttungrhroushi!
opminsin rh. m.hrs rlur rRlh
G 'hclPpliqu. $ rheloundadonts

.!cn\ ard conrol dr shspingoI

founddion. A ilsisn $ih n,n)


dn.-.red aPPriqu6 b(oms lop
h..ry nd i.ds a nurdrrsubnan
ta| roundRridn
Id! a bs. such6
niII. he&l- hbriq, ba,lng prJdqr

concel of sdhctd or gBdLlYl


Io@s b ri...n pd.hwoih r.sisns
sd.d.d .l.mcds of ' d$ig! I e
d.v:rd {rh erlh$ls or su$ec.
nd'h och ldnion b*ril ld a lLn
rosdhs in Lh{ unDl, dshr.sidce
fac s fdhior (Fie rr 12) ^fts
tnmb\ rhedmtd ckn.trb m
$urftd tnDu3hdns.ur No drr

cusd .onePb af mon dilfi


cuh ro md.Ednd &rn rheois lbr

NorEs & VARrAfloNs


'rht

chora bdwee! srhcd

,rtur oldsisnqrret rtna, Dtru.


m(d hy nhnh q,Peor rL.vrliotr
ruuld bc rh mon ippmprile fo,
th. dcLsn Twoothti hdoc ro

n, eroakdrre cheng$dtu.ldtr
d LorLc'rdr o !don(L $irh x

'he cdg. oIa shpc 'hr mdchs


rhc ba*line Mn\ nN.h 'he Elorr
d lin!-urle$ rhc.d$ ii tutiln.

befrB) a smtl slhpc rnd fte


cu$c .lldN lon fo| cd vrn, rionr
in thenu[.d rtrip..]od srhenng

Frs 11@ F) PabhM* &siE1||ik


Bttan lb) ftianeb wk Me ede

,ndsfd lersrl oLr]]. rt.vftd


Li'c cu$cl. sn be dnlied rlm'
{ill elsr en ipplqui o! a nanr.
olnk aP-[ or,rth. *trh PE.

r]t d6n d [.ig[r afr- nutlbs


oncrlnd rh. lbuxhLonNinh
otlhenir M-suE aDJcu rah-

Figll.BHar.nfufuiEEnem|b
ittLnultinsn rvilsrpohr

HALF-RouNDs

u Forrhefoundadon
dt: Pi&e
%/(l r,nn) Iron rlf n?rro{

*ltchd5ldebyside6tfomd:toi
with *lffnsercofd beseen the

PRocEDURES

cr prp. hmrbo .drcrh.


bek. {nh L}Phsrdshl
p,Pd or.odft(ul

nab,lE{

aroundrheedss or by hali
brs rla ift p*ilkl nrdrupr
Ed,oY{laPPi!8, o! sk$v.d. Add
rDd un$fird

*Rs, ior !,ikrl

b snh , Iahncgi. ndkhg


odo thc foundnion-rhc.

\unb.i 'hr p{6 Loindicde$e


srqnRrt or rppli.lLd! I'hE nei
lElt mu ipphd.dus rh.
lam alloranc ol rlE rEliotrsly

a owrn( bsrde:dr san

Lou'dn. rnli$

in,licned br rht ordo ol

ln( d6ign b

da. ha.hh3 suiddhs

Fis 113s la) ctuut at ti2nsutal


d6@ts14and"3in|h3d6ig1
skebhe,t in ris. 11&. tb) cutu
aibtnht tu hebht dhet sltiins,

:.ul

6 I a n I R P s c do r f i

s.w iLN nsr . tu n,n


i rornrc (d) ir ris rr 16)
6. stuftrlt h?ltuDd' \,I'rr (rdq
b !trfiils olpqr:/s).unn!

hrLlrouid or. g,!ur ofhnL

la) Rasta3f ip 11 h wrbn @) s'w sth t2 avq tha ad@ or skp *1


lc) ssw m gds at !tu ,3 a@ the edse
be raundatbr td) Easotutnessat thg entu at the dtips hto the badhg sean.
le) sew tianqlta, harratnd *1 h ptace
b cr modr fton r hilr, dNd

h,trcu'dilb'lt&tgt

nm hrr , {rnd :r nsh,ndl

,Nndh,hrIN
a,in
so!
rlf
ftn
'dE
ol Lh(
lr )
r,i[:r!
i,rL&! (]) EsL

rk n'llncs{ r]I um..,d


orrl( hrlt rcuDd Nhi c siD*

'h! fou rbn \irh $msjun


rno r& .,ds oLdr l ll
(un1r b qE5rond qnh rhe
,h.nrdL.Jdlni

nrps.lollDsins
rhl rumbfr&l
{qum(ol:pplir or (b)

ii(h

NorEs & VARTATToN5


rhsftdlnry tne rourdnb!
$dr[oraru.h'lfrouMLiB
diih{.( 50addjnB
hru rh,liamt
(tu
ft
ndilt b $ hrlr-round
ul half round A.tually rhd nu.h
deyadoni5 too ouch lor a tn[

Fig11.93sinv||aneo!<||sewnu
7. Rcnor rhr rnporry

rcu

oi r 'rsign kriunn8 hnl Dulds


tni sEduallr indes ro rha,
hcigh! $'1r! sevinghalr rounds
*rh non rhnnjz rhroundadon
vidr[ ddtn td rhc hilf mund nnP.
.r rh..ndsoI $e nnpsin ar our

nabiue.

s, *witrg l]1t lining h rhe

GrliDe rhe*s
haLfmuM hhi. ro
dresPlE benED rhcbtsddrd sa,
and,ncffi ,rrL{tuE rheseDd
(Fis rl r9)
sidetodr loundadon
durinssewingan,l discoungs
Hallmunds atu$(.d bd ftrll
Nh.n rh. und.6idc ofthc loundR
rion b+ns to bulsand curl up
roo mudr nuffing shcn $3 nuuhu
imPed6nirchins,irh r asubr
rDishr nnch s.\ins Ioor or dr

nlltils ro build ul in hcishr.


rhe $aro b.6!(n IEUnunds
b.ne 'lj. d.dioE on eirho side
mft, oared by rhecoDstudon
smin'oabruade!chunLAflr
ssins lhc lKt sideof i hill tuund
b plre, u. firt *.nlinloldlm
ro
g,ugei dnde for thc bpnidrins

Ratu.dnrip?iig E a Io$ rtld


v.sior ofh,lf rcundsrr G siniltr
b hllLruds in allr6p-c bur
Nc An indnr for he8h' afhr
stumngis not iddrd td rhc*ips or
rbnsl$ nir.h.d h rhr foundadoi.

Fb 11.1o (a) Paten ta, a eraup ot rc


hat
tE seM t@th,q. 16)se||ira qn
ordunrgnrd,L.<nEr

CoNNDCIED
RoLLS

r rrfcdi

PRocrDURrs
il tqd

od

dc ora.h rdF

$LhqlliLofLh!rdhli!'{L

ro, ud, Dlr oaillLlc

\!nh rhnaLl ,ide or rlI frb,n

{rmlD$ (
stpM!

r|t

LD!0,!,pl(b) n F,! rr-r0)

rr {)

Lh! sluulLo$ d dia

(+.n) nulLLtrg
oprugr ui di!
$rnt. trrnrq" 'Irrl
b Lr"
iro r!o) rp{' Rous:h{r

dnnd.i rrrdirdr Du5


lN.d,fi.nadndd{5

osDlsslhrougl'Ikde.dlAl0
Ll

'sr m! onPag.zrq) rn,tt

4rr sds at stufrednk, la) plat,


lb) sathetd lc) tanenhe casngs

fo i ddadrd nnra(rorr
nncLrrhc.dss rosdL{s'h dr

NorE5 {r VARTATToN5

risrr sidcourri.forclufiing (G) n


F,3 r1.{l surr!! r{,rL& hmd

onn dtrmtr for$. rbu1[.r

I0 rh. si,Ei rishrlr!!o!.r

d
FA 1113.stutrednt Enatbs
la) rcpstibhactassth6prgatddas.
na. @ r@Ibh downtheeentetal

.quidish

fron, l]I rold su

nr
!

n ntrtGd,{r(s

P(.Dtrr(d $'nrirs

inrorh. rir

nr.r rr
sunacerck stuttedaa{ sewhs.15)

.lGns,hr.nds o{? nfttrd r0rl

a,Ds ro I r bickgtuNd rrbn.

(r).res rtDs hRakrrtr mus

lthbd[dhDd(jftrnull:

fk*cd n'br (r),i

Ilg It 1r)

(rtrprs{!tuduJi
r $frlr' (b)
,nF,g 111+) Tdtr,s 1lr roLL

sid.ofof. fibri. s.r rh. *.oDd

$\ ,h. trtrnnffdalDsino,h.
$rE iohnr*hn Pkc5 ofhhnc

L!:
6|iha|ehejghl'ch6oarcalElic
nsasuenn||o,|henagneddqlh

: i ( )X
c1

It
gr.s.mddhlLmgkLnlps'

'hr hch (F,sLr +t) sd rlr

LrrrLE PrLLows
r. $rtha hbn. nfr nririnsroDr.
(Fig.lL 16l Edi4!

!i!h

PRocTDUREs
(6om). dn!! anorlr otrdLn.

D.nr or rdjoill3sqndn!

11l(r rmr) ouFiderh.

,hrc4h sPrs bd\tor

d.frh r % (r r.m).*krd

&tg.r

Fis 111r RaDndtud ovatpatuns tu irk p aws:ta)


Entatseb $tinad he)eht(b)pal@hs||it)out sean

bdNs

arjrNr

orhN

fo

IaM la) sap6 with *iaaennb


bp{ed nto tE
.Drhe6 or the oiEnat aurira. tb) Pzr*re vlhaul

$drnght5td*bg.'hdPiD'h.
(ond pic or L'tn. sln'Ch'
!nd, br nrhinc ovd ch ou!
brl$L'lhLrB

on eihc! sde or ln.

ldtqude $'m alloNar NLen

allor an$ dngonrlL){ros.or

il\
-C

,fr'

andnalncGea.rro slu ,ns


NtrhrniSh' !d{5 s'

rhE

nurr,ns rouodor ovrt Pitio$s

i -1i4
li

li ,,'
\lt Z

Amns. ad Fm rh p'[ds hb
d,elrller rE-phnn.dsmn.uon
. Fofa do*d amnsntit oI p
lo\r \rh sdsln sid6 0) ro
.d3$ , Nt Pn isdli cpt.hry
.5 bdon sxins 'og{h& p{.
ronsdr 1r) [4rip ]c cdsG
qdhq \ih 'h) nirh$ iini'
irr. D lbnr or hklud!'n

pillors Hrnd *\r rhc pillo\s


qdh{
dln dn! rnipnildrc
q;ruchnnh d6 coDnd
nnth'.ndcdPil|or*xnhfts.
r,ggdrdtrg.
r kb5 (Fis r-51)
\j.w*rc

.a Faat

4 ,. 4r6.t(.qa'a

@..po1a 1f;o>na

lht tN a|Lo\qn(s ]nd dI |.d


oFrinss lnib. ir ir ]rk rr[

:T|
tftft
|

fronr.rh. ourr rinirgriL bc *iLLe

NorEs & VAffATro's

rcar-h|nich;sLthiid or
ni.hDr O) nr,s nufiiDq,idd a
r( nh(h{r by{]Nsdolr

vnh,ht ovqalrna of,l[ shaP.:

pr'.hu qk u aoFa'l

or {di+'

i,,d

lo\snllftlhmlghopnhgs

p Ld!+!rq\

(1) l,!

p.rl!r!

reighrrrrr lufii,s. nrd (2) rl{

li) ro( rlt ourrN$otdrpfun


ma(y drhr$ \rdft rhRn4 (10.n)

o(1trc.

(:) Fof!a!h p!Ll,hol!

G) s$! rLr!fror (o ar Linrg


!LLll,difiqcn, u':'
Glmsn.d
'dingks, ransl.! ild olaln.

.!r out insidcrh. *rn diplh.


5qn iroran(, rnd rm nshrsnk
orr G) ![hhs ru dBs a\ rhe

rdd ,h. snourr erioinrcd fro

'ht rc-|rann.drnns.ntnr For

orllr lorslds

(frg n 5t)

(l),\rurmLo8'L.ssinsbur

nnrkd d rlE lhLr*! G,s rrrs)


(5) s,rrrsd Nkhoh throngh
t6) uol*! iand{J ln,l. rillo$.

(Fis Ll tr) Br!x$! LLsll{([dg


dtrhl,ftd rhrougMnrrr Gsng

prcrn d n ds-ih.d ror lir. piL

tr-tr

fvins rosdln orrrrlr d

.dgs

EredbfIaDfrEh*uieddev'1]6

0n

Fs 11a la) D8i9ntat rdte prk$

h peehdes. (b) paneth will ssdr


tu)rhe @hlet tc) Pekhotette

LT

T PLLC\']

i o
j rJard r.,

i.,: jid e !:

!=i::i

Brscurrs

PRocEDURES
hlcargthcfo'$ch15.b,r$.

ibr{N
" (2 an) h'gh..nlargr
a ha r" 17 Jmr) squr *o 3 {"
oo!m) \qN! rof i bsqi ,!'
( | :r.n) hLsh.$ln?. r r" O j.m)
b&'orrr"(9on).Mr .ldns
g(lr jdc ot llr l]s. ]
ro Dl or

oLri!.u,G b dr nurr.d ro!! oa

+ as*nbl

ft Lis.uirsin , o\s

o! rhe Ndde (FiE l.is)

Loo*f,bn.,dra{d rio,i rrr


pla'r Ccr{ b numos on

z riom Lhira raLniccur i b:s. to'

nF roq ol brNG iogtrhs


qnh rrLqnrinssrosrd oD

bP hLnc. cu , brcuir lo. ndl

,n Lark rick rhr Liri,srorlr

Fo i Lr.ur I " (Z idn) liq{


,DAh ford Prsr h s|h sid.

. .tr3Lisdtrlf,e.rur)li4q
rn rrtdd

Pl6r b ad sid.

\ha,
</- I

4f'

Noils

- V,4KATroN5

!orr\' {urred ro 6hb|nh nr


iou, ncssof a b,(u( n.vs Pu5h
numnsi,norh. corids oIlh.
s.wiq unnulled m{s ro sulftd
size s{rion larg. con*rudions,
*cdonss

b. rd,ncd..nd
{urr

An,rkrnareardsP-dier
nans Nnh pa,lcinsfdr a blo.k oI
bt.trts (r ) DEv z crid ol squse
norc bi$uiE Dnv 3norhrtgid of
enla{.d squRasIo} rhcpkard lop
df ,hl brcuiE Mrk tu prcn loc
arouDd
borhpanms (2)wnh,
f$d!,ere nnks. rr. rlt gid tins
Gmnr,ma and prd, F{rin8s onro
$e lebnccut for tht b,* .nd lne
'or (:r) ssq rhc bp b Lltrba* Ph
,ni!h all p,nncr *aslins and
rlat nrkmss D on. dn{'ion
pld loradon RcPsl in rheoo$
dirt.non (Fig.11 tq) (a) as@hle
rh hiscuirLhFusha dn c( inro
al&ugh rhcfrdnionarbiscuir
h6 a squne ronndarion.{ plrlL
o! eael)sidenso 3n:bl.sbGcuib
ro Gc lbh non,squacb6e
(FiE lL 60) Enliqlhe b6e pnb on. barrrhed6ir.d d$efion

Fiq. n *. ro quie sewa blocxotb@uxsta) B*e andbp Ftum Mbk.


inenut'pb u*ur,, dth pt at l@rare m*Ed M sdntines. @ rq atu
base,u'th.nrdqdh1|idmdhecwikinv*dpldba|mMbEfu|
(c)sttuhedin iE @e
Mrad s6
AddirronalExNrE and l.vels
acd bdNq thebi$ui6, f.iviis
sleded bGcuiBunsturrcdand
crumd.n. and lurowhs rhebillowins hbnc in th. cenk! G.[e! ro
sn6d36 fta bjscuirvenrnon
rojurif) ,r1eEee, tner aE Edmsuhr lons ,nd slcndd but
prumP Thr aft .onnrud.d l'k
bG.!i6 h all Esp(c bur onc

lnn.adolip].onderrsid..
only & .vo oppcirc sids lur
pled5.,nd rlo$ pla6 arc alM)s
ndncls

rd a sEas. pitdn.

dnedo!. inccIins rh.l.rstL of


th. shdL lidG of rh. rcrhngl. br
tht anounroI rh. d6r.d d.vadon

PEAKSAND
VALLEYS

ainnlemss.hrq!a6edby6e

PnocEDLiRE5
lamlfu4l$i&onredhg
s q u r k s ( F i g . 1 1 6 Ls )d L l r

asqnm

i l l h . d . n g d D E I i1

Fb 11.62.(a) Mth a mpas


set b h
Nk s tunEtrat base, dtatu3 tiarsE wih th@eewt sides. tb) usins he
rhr nqnumrmr of on. 5id.
oldr! rlrtrgl! (.Ls rr.62)

atbwance:, and circt$ l. ) 10mtk he nneB

sideor rLrcsqu;i. (Fre Lt 6l)


{{rng nihnoE b lach rixt

per, Lqh,I F{k rh.Fnrs

nohcr'ddLea.f\lloruntr
n.r pildL\ r rhLDrdl.don.
ttrjGr rht ren nd. or lne Psr,
Pohl Ar rht lrDal.ore( dr

Fie. 1161 @ sew tu site at he p$k ta anee& at the tuse /b) Matchand
ew the rei srtu,andtc) thenen teavirsthe

ir.
Lh! qNdr((a) nr.ia5 rr 6j

Fe 1t66 la) Peakssewn beehel

Nor[s & V,tRr,rrroNs


Fa I I 65. sew tutapdks 4|elhel
wth a sean ju* ro thc tdh ot the ti6t

l [ r b N i F L gl l 6 7 ) i o . d ' !
plh!trl|nqorfinull
rh,lth6.
libi !n frg

\tr. nrfrrn

6d) \rih ighl

p.rL |)l doi(s Ldjllor {(lr(g

,\n0u!Pa|\Lll{(lDNlUj

,"Lti:':

Structured

Surfaces

72 UsingDarts
DART BASICS

r do$k']rircd drL. rcllk

SEau&NcDARr5rIMs

. .riP rh. rr,m!]l h" (lronr


r. sN {nh ! sinaldrc:d $nor
( r ) r[ I r rnd or rrr rJobbn
LhqJ b ft.nd ot rtr r(dlr
knd (r) rtrrrhsd! rhc!(dle
rdl!

R$\ Dd'h. tr(dl{Lnd

'rr! Lhr{dbsguidsr

rnsiDn

G) Brgu{trlhn8vih1ludr.
,haa,rsk gdhr i,r tronr

rhLh5LrouLdLr.dDstr
lrrl(
r,DL{i!h 'ht Lh'{d nn \rar

. !!hd' 5$m3 i dnr or rtr

nrlrkfto

rnsl. { fmdF ou,

SINGLE-PoTNTED
DART
mouthor$eVwhth s alw:y3
*
poii or theV wh*e ihe 6brt ele

PRocEDURES
r b. dtrrns nil*.d, dnfr l

!orrh. diir *..

nraichr,

niudurd ron aris rz o


Adal)lor.ollh.lollo!Ltrs
Lrnixr an trturi0n (or d.prD

dor Gr d.p'h) w l lulniuk

Ndei nlh ,ri! &4kd .ds! n


n!'d, d[ di*

I&N{fu hl''l "' 4

,l d,f0,!irrr|a{d

(rr3 r2.)

a Fora shsh dar: (r) E{eod

rh. oPPosiredg. (r) aur

nor ns i/'(!
snE) 5hon
of 'h oprGtrc !ds! G) spard

ri'',u'sahtnaspuaFfuntor

a si@ledat 14 Ladlin andbgh


ot thedaft.lb) Pauffi stashedn the
dadkEghighla@bkdoppEib
6de6.hd lc) e ed beetBttha
fufuddM@depk'dh|hedad
e2M n d p'pet p'td. (4 Dantu
cdsjd66padbgekdardEedga
stuiqhtue m a pTet Bb.
le) carccbd tu ttte tude1tttu)

(5) cur rhedac oFn. R6roE


$e!qslhd}orja'g.ddd

(Fig. M). (6) Ton.I. &6


tibn onc.dgr thbugh fi.
sft !d3nd rclr *F
Nder ,{''

(t)

'rrridr ondidr

d. d'djd

r.drmn6

oJ

ti. paftn' Ni/l nori rlr st,tor ruAurnnr c d oist.


ddos rh. rdp.daogdrr dar
a' danssilL irct.ft, a nE
ddr6{iU Lr ldigd rrdd'4i

cur our rhedM. (5) Ab

the

(l) cormrins dc drn lin6,

l}.i,t

conroul (6) cll rh.

(2) surL $. ptts, sprntd


by : disdnc. .qu,l to om I'at
ft anoud oJrrr ,rai{d ddaddldqrj', b ' niP of paP4
vid. 4 Lh. b6e 6 th. epar&
,lans.(4),{b lh. lds of Gc

Hg'12ns/h.and.predpel|en
trtur9wipt*6
ta)Paw.d
fudelda|Mdepb'wlh|hedafu
dabl m a papq patch lb) P'dffi
"nhEc6bu6o||Edfudadg6

Ebrc the e'ics b rhrl prs

i\

',,.,,

,(

//
aha,Deh,9ed5h;

\":).'

tve 1olrabht euidettustaharetu

du( inu,d .uNingrsuks

noFbn\

ri i,kc r fom

spx.dd:nr:(l)tk!Ll(!l

3i+hr 5ids on da s r ri.


contr6: (l)rri!! Ltu5ilhor
( 2 1[ n l a q c , r s i h o r d r ] l l
.tuu b r! orur,//Jv

tutridr$5 c)lnLrEL,hr!l6rnt Rrriremd\ drL ri{


'JEonn ,I dr A.(d rJ.!l
{orn c) Dnrd. rht nrhotr{r

rr,!(b, rqurrihs ,h r.DsrrN


olrlr ilhour
Ind eDlar[e
lDls (!).d

doDr or bo\l (Fis 1.13)


n i rIr to,r,( , l0 D ,r ,ri dl!,

drrrrrld LJd?ri,tiL/ri

qrrh.rirF.

o r r r r d r b ( F , sr : 6 ) r h . s .
n.'rrQi+r.sidcdPdr,, hb

!Js!) 15).oFp{. Llrrj11,0,

I'o$ oDrlr rsh, rdt orrr hl)

se'is or prsr ,67) I'ordrB

ror Enred fonns slu\ncd Nih


nul'iph ddi enlnlc and .qulEe
rrodrrts rhe non pEcne aM di
rblE Gsur6 stash rnd 3prtad li.s
soft*h.a
in bdweo rh. 8ks,
:nd fin xrd erral8c-rnd .qui'.
djdaht 6 r lom.a ndr r pE.
. t r r l n el a @ r r r r h d
f
ndhod d{ add5aruund rh. dars
6 ( rcdmc rnid. lhEdnE lhnh
ol rht Jancd form an cfi.( lhd

who dialrns dansbl 5rishins


Rndspftadins.rrr $idrn dI rhd
dciuL d.vdidn m,y trednid.d

sn r . .enenta, bdne :AbB


,a d t1Fdr4) b ant""ia4
tre,,"i.-

r. ftss rlr df6. dPeninsnr


ian dro{'icsof'nnDcd
dai6, l{st Prcs on r p,dd.d
hondius.rheo. r poinrpft$,
d'a ll aid rh. slnpins of rhe
rabriclbrn Fhser pN darc
4. fo rirnl rrr .ds. or 1 d:ned
rorm.hhd or firt rht cdse.tin.
qirh a duplicdc or drcdan d
rhedrtb. roslbilf. r orkr
5hap.ol a drhd lom sw rhr
.d36 roa ba*.tr' fion $c

Nots & VARtAfloNs


!s thr gfts.and{ tr nclnod
b, advcmroE ruDwi$ daft
w'd on. suidinspnhdple in
riir tu lnoum rhord by dr
d,'cpadi.
frrh pap< ud
nous! {rh rhc rabncro crc!.
i:d fr,n nEish and dryhs
dans Fdrgd riminins anddlon,
de .(r3$ b b. unftnry mnbmd
drhbiri) of rhendhod ex"torc
wfunonrclGanisuc'U*lne
r,tnirre Edhods b d.vddP Pr
6s b nn..dimedonil tdlc

rh. err cdg. \\rcn plfnidg rhe


drb rora circularshepr
rob.
nleq.d .od equalicd, ,noi. drtu
Prcduc a motupdr.dly rouoded
Idrm ,haDlss ,lans,andr nlhoF
dn6 ro modd rtro x smoo(hty
bundedIom rhRnr sl,shrlrcuning lrhoudr For drnpL. .v,l
sLapsrcquir ooE d3r6d rhc

Tdnidtrnrnd rhc o,lss.nnd,


quali:t n.rnod bdrq. risurlnc dr
o+ilar pnhn lh,r. 6 rhesjthou
dr dr shadoLv
oI I ftrte.diEn ionarlom rnrsin rtr dric .ld idn
or lo{.nns ftc Jea oI r]t pa(dtr
shaPevhilt k(ping rhcoub si.
.nd lhaPe,lh. si mddshdorq
rn. $h. ro. rhn Erlt, s .onbr&
ion ol dne b6si Pnn.ipt6 rpptr.s
b dd rormrton: o ) rnl,Bontnr
.'tualehalfrhed6ind d*?do/
dcpth.(2) rhe anroumol hbic
Eno!.d bya din xr irsqidd Frnr
Poim.(l) Afttr dnhjns rh. dcrc.
rcflkr rlr shap.oI rht o.giid pi!

ry\L

siul. d:n Gl$h nl sp'!d) d'd


dmN 1hl nor d rh.silhoudr
(.nlr4 udqulEo
aE Lhenoi
Lhnr$uDdflllom$L
Erp.d ld rsr r'!i ({ljtr{

hcl)td{r
'rt dc
lul

.ddi.{hi!hlPfus

dinofbnnt.d
\ludBtufa,hldns

{! add.J

rr.d

d lr

fri..

od

d..o]1. I

nrlltbr5r.

rlr linc n,d .rod ou,rronrir


Nr!( (!lip {,d rm LINiqo
oLllr dll0 !$rnrLLr td $ri(

rfrh. v,nishinglroinsoI nrn


drE o! oPPqne q dF('
cdscs
rcEsed

on rhe PrEn

an adiun

nof ldo,. (rhDg n( rpcxofrlr

vrLasorsd. dars (Fis D r0)


,hQd5 0r rlre ntrv.. datu .o'v-l
J(/ld nrDl !rry$ I nilhhsrDb

NirhnrshrirrnroB (r1 r2-sl

It

+_
Fis 12na sutuce tu6: (a)Fded b are side tb)AdtGtedar he @t@ tal
nabhhs eds6 at thebse te) cnteEd avetthedad setu td) caerhaped
pni4hns dsdhnned at lt basa

! N.LL fO \TEf

t,;i

@ '\i!
@c lrft irt d! iic rj. oi qerari
or
ii!i.
4!Gq J!lporre::!horen3trri,/jd.af,! n,,'|Tl
n. r
tl rF1fldr
lif,r ir!

,i 4 ri ,ra. A .r f f! 5:t.ti i n or ,:r .


i/. r) i tu... 4 ; ia, t, t+r) r9r tu ral
lsr!i,r:frr!r-r
!.|t:

);||'!;|n

19 ri,Pr! i.q
q.a a'tjl1,|

lrl

i \ril

ir,..t \r .rE:i..i r-,- ir


rrni.(

li ri-

'_ ,!r!r r!

in.i fifir.ir.\

ii3
I rr'-ir!tf!!

Itf

!i!.r!,.

rirqti:i,!r-iicr

r,

f,.ti.?

DouBl E-PoINTED
DART

NroDs & ViRrAno\s


r h r r r r r r r L r r d r L { r o r i n th
bl!N r.lrL{tr lAs r

L)

d..i,r\ h rLrr,, D.$orrrl hN. r

Fs 1242 la) Dobte @Dbd dan a


Inpensa|e|a||1fu.|fravedbf
rhed'd tb) cutuhe dad+Fhd

$n!hl]]llhLo|$*l!Nncd

(rLg lr L|.drqtrtr,gp!:nbn1

!k.?l.rrsd,naourrr( [n

scuu*clipping rdatu hrdrir


prurD lakens rhenrms$ of rhe
$Er! the dnnnsionariq,of dr
l,bh..dtr{rudioi r..rt&,
dln
panm', u{ gridd.dFp?i 'o d.!be
ddublcpohrd dar6.combined
Nrh nngL.poinkd datu d rhe ab.
ndcdccc(od{.h'lanoniB

rhc dcigr dr 'hc 4shr d wruns


sid. olrhelabric(Fis. 12 lr)

+
< >
<
: +

rh. wbng sid. oLlhc tabff pull rlr


tabdcdovn ar fte ends.w]ren
snlhed on lnEdshr side.thridbk
tuldssuppdnh.igtu a, 6rh .nd
(Rdd ro's(unng D:n sea'ru' on
P4 267) ro varuft a dan pnsqu,rcol hbric Lo.k ( bolh sida
orlncsd.hcdioplq rhq willb.
qunr dificrcnl M!6uE drehbric

< >
+ +
> +
+

8:84 ZA\
o:o:oVZA\V
++ A\v7x
VZA\V
A\ l^\ l^\

++

\VZ

Th. bctorcdd msurm.d rnd


fie zfGrdai merurementreld a
a ursd mqsumd.

Afiri nnchins

non h.ld jun abovc r fibnc


Allor b coolanddry bforemor
ing.Tdlibil'zr ioddY,llr a.k
r][loNpoinboL r rchctb r nrti
Unrsurl fonnarions
rtsuh
whcn5lndqdansre *Ichd
Nidlh, and
s.ulpd rLr Lcnsrl,.
ilnedionoI rhedrc, rh. *p{&
and\qons sidr nirchins.coin

srio6. rolil5on the surfa( become


licun'i? daign .l.d&s ddn
conspicuous.
somdrn6. G,n Gt
sulpd &bricrhn undrrlirsrh.

!r,
kirn
!ri ji I , r , i,.1,i , {l
rini rcFo., re +,iii,?!r.
rt I
it
! Gi
d.,rrNrir{ ii! ne,!l Di,l! i I i .d, ,jdi r:!,,f
i..,
lii.ri.,ff

11hr) r,: t ceN1t. .1 lnr"r.-r-,


di
i,t gF
ir int ro. r r.era
J q4r
! irrlr I' r it ii: :nr. io. of, ri ilf 1i
5 !, r.: {trjn,r.,k
r,i , ri - rfur
rer,a.r!
4&n.! iG r 4s ad 5!llir.r r; i i4 r 5 r r.nr n

r,k',f

ai,lj.Nrir,h{/,q,

?4

D O L ] E L EP O N T E D D A R T

rlrjir::aoiTLili:!''{T(roiNxl!i,.]'rdll
d,n

Ai ir-..:.-

!i re lFr r. !,- er oi a! r;ni

DOUBLE.POINTEO

+ ifiiil
oliJiui !@:r!( , !r4
j
r? liqlr
drr
{ !i b.rr 3iu:!

t'
t Vrt

:tt l H

finH.tlJ.ri

1.

+
+

+
+

l
*

-t

*.
*.

'#

Manipulations

73 Combinrrtions
TEcHNreuE
VARTATToNS

ffi,,,W

rEiNJlo6

./ r4de.tshrd

,8ue he loh. qh tr4lki

r 5

. {n

lei,h.r,:-

hri h-.,,.r

it rs5 i n. r0!d!d l.F.

J rr.

isd

CREATIVECOMBINAIIONS

i
.di

:i

.r !11,r

r ?ir!r

o,-nli ,l,irderrrr

i&5:!.1'l(J!.r,rl:lLIl!2flierl(r4'riigl]
5i!-.@rr.uiiri(r

Mr

il

, .:f

.D

n '. i:i,'i.

.i:clr-.,i-i.i

iiirsr.ir
jl ]i]ifi

r -1

rr

l ] i . . . .i . I

' ,.1. i

:aa.}8,

.'RJ'
\$.

7
j:l

l;tit

-znS
)r*"'

-1 .

i'+r.'l
'^.

illrl
plli

t1
tf iI

'1"

'*-t-

, --j,' '.r'

i" ,==

Appendix
HAND STITCHES
BAcKsrrrcH

becinningrcPhcingaLiotitheeid

trcm ight b rert (s*s


a d re.
toN f refr haided) Br is a threrdcd

lrmm) to rhe rcht of the emergrn


thread tor an *n
bac!'dkh,
makei nrrh 7r'(6mh) on3mder.
pmm) ii rrcft ot rh .m4s ng

br n3 r of y/ (rmm)h iron. Eri

Fig.Ai. (a)EEn backtteh lb) Har


ba.kstuehl.) sutiE wrhtuek

BASflNG

mrh re sdrchig (i) h Fg.A.r)rhe


sdrhe5 Makis 2 nrth h" ( .nm)
or z" (6hm) h front of the eme4
is thred rirtu the needrein@ the
hbft %" (3mh) b the r shr ol the
Fmm) n nont (b) ii FiqA r).For

rlgme.eightstyeod$e5ijfrh

b eri tss$
dr dn*oE f eri.
handed).For
venbnting. make

OvrRaAsr
SirrcH

lengih I b&kas n rront (h) n


Fi!.A ) For unryen b6rh3,hk
of rhe slrhce((b) n FsA-2)

LADDTR
sttrcH

BrIN:DirrrcH

/'" lrmm) bcow se ar edge;


mow ahad !" l6mn)for $e rc{

n]tchntrcdicdlom'3htbeft
(re86e a dredotrir t.hmded).

sed rc aPPl46 a folded edse rc

righrrc err(rsss:rrdr4bN
ir
reit.hmded).Br is se ned e !P

bke a i rch Ln" (3mm) ong N de


nd

r,,(rrm)

on3hsidethe

rt' {6mm):had.0d fr" (rmm)

ihe 4P q!: rod x" (3hm)ahad


nrhs.pullthethread hut (G) n

CArcHsrircH

(",,'.)-1
Fis A.4.Laddet*hh la) ct6ns

rrom left ro right (rd.*e i direc


rm, ' eftnan&d)on rhewrcis

a nrd rf pnn) on3 is de .


aPPLiqud!
forded
eqe.wrhdr
,/t" (3mm)ahead.
reepis rte
eme'gie th@d iu* uder.he rord
ededseolthe!pP|iq!aAit{ir

cdch oie or irc ihreids or rhe

(b) h Fg.Ar).aid refer6 (oh

OVERHAND
SrrrcH

TAIoR TAc(s

S PSTITCE

co*,firn hind nrh 6ed ro


io i No folded or fiikhed ed8es.d.

tsrcrred rrcmr d'r b reft{r*e6e


ar dir4oni if eflhanded)
m the
to reft o. rert rc risht To join M
folded or finLhed ds6. alinrhe

bedamagedb/othgmarkigab

edseol a singe-fordhm or fidns


lldvin3 fdrErd 7/' (6nm), P .k uP
nit hes.Fof q+ nit.h,,ngerh
needre
foMrd %" mm)ii ihe

tuhd(.workryfrcm. shr6 rert


(de&

(6mm),Prk !P M
chdcdge@thel:bftsdeh*ih.

the Pd4n 6 the rish. side or 6e


a drredoErf efi-hnded)

or thrce 6@d,

P! de thread geirt b s{urc the

be@$ lhe nitchs cis.Ar) c4


reno ihe Partsn To Fxk M
laye6 ot abr c ar oi.e. lave v*t

(lcm)and

ihe dreadsbftei

SrABsrrrcE
Rui\iMN6 STrrcH

iwo :d on, ( r) P6h 6e reedre


rhe fab&. {1) tush rhe reedre ba.k
myoutolihe|abrcsEh*tchigs

TAcKNc
wdkins rrcm idi b eft (trEe
r d reldos r hft haided). dd ihe

wte.sdthhngdddd]esPae

hands rthes. ofren 5Eb* tched,tha!


join one e em.m b ano6s r coF

WH|PSmcHlNG

Gn.trN

GLOsSARY

e 5 ( 5 ) A n e m e b cm d w c c

APPIraur,

'e cr p po iis (6) colofed pfl.

(r)sma 4shaPede6r
6b' . (2)ro rdd

of fab

a 5mdrotod ot

ddeie6riibrrGs
Percik
madeby BercDw a shsPerofo
qsss

BrAJ

(7)r{han c P$!

with

IlrM ArLo$AN1a
0rt&m

e d4 Nq{ 6e q ,E

(o4EheideosrhgEhoi6e

(e)a (r:ck Pssed hro rre toPwlh

BODKJN
qe q a tuer'

IRoN

ft.hins berore r fades.(r0) re|8rhs


3r P.d$iqred to

FAcJNc

CRosscMlN
FI\'6m Pluss

IINJNc

E.458

FLUTE

EDct:srfic
f; (r.smm)froF a ro dd edgeo.
sem|hewiththelabl.ishride4

FArRrc-SAEMAru<rar

nsier^rrr,5 r! hP p&m,nen,
ren4o6/i./ ot' atnorc oi ,re
hcndd fdbrr beto 4bs rifker
hdude:(r) Pii4d dht/rsEd
fordr (2) s! $o, nips md rcrh* in
(r) B*.n8 md 6i
*an a6hi.s
ror 6.ks. t4J Bhckb@i chak da k

fa'twthrisksidesrog{he|

NEEDLEMoDELUNG
FoL DATIoN

NPs

SrAYsflTcHrNG

SIABILEE
-(r)ro aarc eadeGd*itd n3

,lls:ie.sd/nit
h is pEna the
edselrcmjrerhrigaid'whenrhe

NorcEEs
(^) mrkh$

shghtsdthhgbymachhe

on the des of P*.

iedons ouisideeim rrokic*.

PrN MATCH

or rabd.rro 3ql G) ro addrrnre$

{shi 5ide or r sqsitched. rr. .

STAa[zER

STEAMBrocK, SiEAM

-rftr
al rbsre,
or dde usd
to addimEs b hbdc ( r) ftmf-

PRrss

PREis
abft r tEhed. (r) rhPohrt

QurLr-As-You-Go

Mdhod oI quilthsthd 5ErE by

whkh
eDlccE i6 smrllersegmenB

bondedbtheba.kofthefound&

latiom,adju*
rherord:md ur a

areftlly bm aq/ nom the ( rhs

Drrc[
SnrcH-lN-THE

''hpquikisl apa*ment
quikhsi'
ftgeredb/6efo|dofadGed

RucHE,RucHrN6

STAY
-{ )IoPftftanaf

P! adon

STRnTGIiFGMTN

rtmPoEr, hshioi wr tins, ottli

36birde.(2) s6birizii3hbft iurby

SEAMALrowANcE
sPc beseq

$e cu! edse rnd

STR4IGHIoF rHE

lurr*ry undene theentrcm:dp- FABnrc


lladdlrohedsebed3e|iP:d,|
3 a y u n d e ] e s ' h e m a n i P l l : @ d * ch i d d e d o n p a n e f t b y a | o n g '
tion ot the frbic.a round*ioi, a hc

SuForK Pu-.as
G e, a sr p or 6bnc,Ep., of r bbon

SEllTDGEs
LensdF; edsPsdw@i

rabrrc. 'he h6d of a Psied :migems9

hlhisboo|.s!tro|kPutrsT!eed

TEMPLATE

SELEcTED
BIBLIoGRAPY
BooKs
!mUBbidgldqub|$doiol

ToPsnrcH
btdFq:emontheightside
or ih.6bf . rhdd 1r arc, u ne

UNDERST[cH
-ro *ddr

3drthb, h&hhe

fa(erabrt.rld,(r.shm)frcmlhe
ingrrcmrcningtothefrciirrrhe

th,t s.n.d appbpnr. b Ey ab.


r.d and considncd r woih dr
h. ifr ldutrdonerir c c}niqu.,
id.x.oi.!cnrhi
thrinq6d
'hd roilss dosnt indude any of
rh,lcoBEr or nd$1i3 mdi. 'han a
skd.h or a d.finr,on inlilu.bh
b hq bur nd {oud io juniry I
rcftnn- rdr i.adds 10 !o6uh. r
do mon,n.nd rhe londsns:

YtrkNtrh.!iqPt${AsUdD

frcj(r
DFi{D

4 1 Dairb

Nlv rn!k, NY

D."s{ }i!

r{4 (ird ol r,Eir3

oli5"td

xr hnn.

\t'ADDrNc
.o,Phr ts@rotvefu. !,i1r4 hd
l}rndoJn!4

rh. F.dnds
ofrn.

ti( tuh.n cd,kl. ri.er oiF .

Ndko4

rtrlroPrk

ti E(!roP..rk '.t vrhio

$rb*

tuDrrd. 6!d. &ni,n!hAi,

eidsre ohi
N(rrso {

PublsdoN'hqoncimn'FbrLhd
bIAwco9o].|!iddl33]
cryq Gn.i.. {d Ho+$ Jnn.

."prk
!'41 ul N.rdk.ril, N6! Yqk
NY6edHoq{ksPinsb*519fl'
Dd/ .n[
addsJo r{ rorD4k,
NE:$]lNb|Eed]ryiln[ol10'+
Hdr. cirerF vGblsh 54 &!rrn,N

colbr &cil aliidn N$ Yqr. N


_

r,.s4h!rhM.ul'

En'i r?r'j4 oI tunl, Dd(d dr


2d&i Brc*tn.N rkBooL$

Hub! Jsh,r

rnied bl aurr PubrLhq LDitrd,

cud4bm,

6yChdFcsd'Erfi'l96,ind

h po$b t6s ld lrrree.lime.sionomo.plor.n or


fobrc gotherna,pcoinq tl.king shni.rl ond qu l
ng wovef moleros-ore seem'ng
v ende$ Io nes.rbe
them orlwo! .i be ro descrbe ilre ent LAh n.rY 01selr n9
h the An af l'lad.otaung Fabttr,Co lre Wollfhosser her
serjls hs tosk.on.lshes!.ceedsbr Lonivw.* ng from
m e s m p e j p o $ b e r o m o 3 o 1p e c e o f . o r h o . c o
ir.ea.led .eede shec.teqo 2eso molordmensono'
Tedr. q!es, sho* how they .re reoied dnd g ver ex.m
presol vorot onsbo]l]nadil..o o.d modcm Theres!I j

t'

on encyclopedoo1te.h.Lqleslnd roslno.e,resh.p'_
r6struc1lreond recodru.fiobric.
v Moe rh.n 354dogcms slpp
!,soizd l.1ob,.od llenec coteg.ret thonspeci:

v fondsomephorogo eres sh.w.os: lhe breolhl.r.e


po$iblles n eoch ledrniqueo
slond.o by emph.szngihe scupi!d rbbn. slricc"
w r iorrrond sh..low
Y lexlie ofst5.nd qu le6, osael osoormenlond nome
<leco.sewe6\'l erpon.lllre rdoslgnhlrzonswtrht'e
o mosl idit ei eitech lrior con be och e!-.d

t.|koi/.|heihe|JLdr4o||h.c$fune

s B N0 - 6 0 r , 3 - a q ! t :

publications

ilililililt

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