2013 09 Sep ADVMoto

KLX250 Project BIke / TOURANCE NEXT TIRES / GARMIN ZMO 350LM NAVI
Exploring
Washingtons
Backcountry
Discovery
Route
Montana
Mountains
Iron Horse Country
100 Years
MotoTaxi
Couch Potatoes
of ADV Pioneers
Overland Expo Explodes

Yanquis in Cuba
Galfer KLR650
Brake Kit
September/October 2013
Scan for a FREE
digital back issue!
Tire Changing
Made Easy
$5.99 US / $6.99 CAN
DUALSPORT
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The Expedition series was built for the serious off-road

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EXPEDITION PANT | 30-50 | $149.95 - $169.95
CONTENTS
24 Project Bike: ADVMotizing the Kawasaki KLX250SF

by Carl Parker
30 Mototaxi Junket: The Adventurists are at it again!

by Dan Wedgwood
36 A Century of Motorcycling Round the World

by Sam Manicom
42 Tire Changing 101: The Art of the Matter (Part 1)

by Paul H. Smith
58 The First Yanqui Motorcycle Group in Cuba

by Chris Baker
48 WABDR: Exploring

Washingtons Finest
by Bret Tkacs
54 Discovering Montana

Riding Iron Horse Country

by Hilary St. Jonn
6 Editors Saddle
8 The Mail Box
10 Industry News
Marley Africa Road TripDVD

American release, Aerostichopens
first showroom, Zero Motorcycles
modified ZF-9 going the distance
12 Product News
Black Dog Cycle Worksarmor for the

R1200GS LC, AFXFX-17 and FX-140
helmets, Sargent CycleWorld Sport
Performance Plus and World Sport
Adventure Touring saddles, Nelson
Riggsoft luggage, AdaptivBluetooth transmitter
16 Product Reviews
Galferbrakes for the KLR650,

Garminzmo 350LM, Rev-it!
Sand Gloves, MetzelerTourance
Next tires
22 Event Report

Overland Expo 2013 (OX13)

by Nicole Espinosa
64 Industry Profile

Womens Motorcyclist
Foundation (WMF)
by Alisa Clickenger
70 Tuning Up

Cross Training
by Bret Tkacs
72 Book Review

Dr. Pat Garrods Bearback

by Paul H. Smith
74 Reader in Focus

Andrew Pain
ON THE COVER: Gin crossing a

bridge in Kennecott, AK. Photo by
Walt Fulton, artwork by Carl Parker
www.kiska.com
Photos: R. Schedl, H. Mitterbauer
RIDE AND
DISCOVER
KTM POWERPARTS AND POWERWEAR LUGGAGE,

ACCESSORIES AND RIDING APPAREL AVAILABLE
FROM YOUR LOCAL KTM DEALER
THE KTM 1190 ADVENTURE STANDARD EQUIPMENT:

1,195 CC V-TWIN, RIDE-BY-WIRE THROTTLE CONTROL, 150 HORSEPOWER, 92 LB-FT TORQUE
REVOLUTIONARY BOSCH CORNERING ABS PACKAGE AND THREE-MODE COMBINED ABS
FOUR-MODE RIDE CONTROL POWER MANAGEMENT
ELECTRONIC DAMPING SYSTEM (EDS) SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENT
FOUR-MODE TRACTION CONTROL
KTM Group Partner
Do not imitate riding scenes, professional riders on closed course/roadways, always wear protective clothing and obey traffic regulations. Vehicles shown may vary from series model and show optional equipment at additional cost.
Engineered to master all terrain and conquer any distance, the all-new KTM 1190 Adventure
offers innovative ride technology, unmatched performance and a truly authentic experience.
RIDE ONE AND DISCOVER YOUR NEW ADVENTURE TODAY.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Carl Parker
SENIOR EDITOR
Paul H. Smith
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Sam Manicom

MANAGING EDITOR
Nicole Espinosa
CONTRIBUTORS
Sam Manicom, Zac Kurylyk, Nicole Espinosa,
Paul H. Smith, Bret Tkacs, Bill and Susan Dragoo,
Miquel Silvestre, Dan DiMaio, Christopher P. Baker,
Dan Wedgwood, Hilary St. Jonn, and
Alisa Clickenger
CREATIVE SERVICES
Skidmutro
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Sierra Skidmore
PROJECT MANAGER
Jennifer Strauss
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Liz Trost
CONTRIBUTING ARTIST Erdem Yucel

PUBLISHER
Carl Parker
ADVERTISING
Dan DiMaio
Adventure Motorcycle
4229 Lafayette Center Dr., Ste. 1150
Chantilly, VA 20151 U.S.A.
Info@AdventureMotorcycle.com
AdventureMotorcycle.com
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Info@AdventureMotorcycle.com
DISCLAIMER: The content, subject matter,
and views provided by authors within this
magazine are not necessarily the views of
Adventure Motorcycle. Actions depicted in this
magazine, whether photographic or journalistic,
are all of or by professionals, and as such, are not
suggested to be attempted by non-professionals.
Printed in the USA.
All Content Copyright 2013.
Its for you...

That sounds dangerous! Arent you afraid? I could never do
that.. Just a few of the more common expressions adventure
motorcyclists hear when discussing their exploits, or travel plans,
with family and friends.
Fact is, its natural for people to be afraid. After all, things can go
wrong out there. But, what makes riders defy their self-preservation
instincts, and set sail regardless? Consider that for some, its not an
authentic adventure until something actually does go wrong.
Everyone accepts a certain amount of risk in their lives, and many
in the motorcycling community openly thrive on it. To many great
adventurers, the unknown is a void filled with possibilitynot
something to be feared. Arguably, its the route to potential and
growth; certainly the impetus behind those who set lofty goals, and
dare to achieve them.
Whats the fear of falling to those who can fly? Like artists
preparing to attack their canvases, adventure riding is all about
the chance to experience something meaningful, challenging and
unique. For those who must go, it calls their name and cannot be
ignored. For those who stay behind, its their support of the dream
that makes it all possible both as an individual and community.
Whatever the role, we all contribute to the recognition and
celebration of what it means to live more excellent and meaningful
lives. And, in the case of many riding far from home, its the chance
to build bridges across cultural chasms.
So yeah, it is kind of crazy, but we hope ADVMoto inspires anyone
and everyone to play some part in overcoming yourself, fulfilling life,
and pursuing happiness of the greatest kind. Its an honor to have
such inspirational stories on these pages to be seen and readbut
there is more. Do you hear the call?
Ride Safe, Have Fun,
Carl Parker, Publisher
For editorial queries, please email Info@AdventureMotorcycle.com.

6
CONTENTS
Get the protection your motorcycle deserves with Touratech CRASH BARS.
CRASH
BARS
Touratech CRASH BARS protect your engine and bodywork wherever your
motorcycle adventure takes you. Made of 1-inch diameter stainless steel
tubing, these CRASH BARS are engineered to take a beating and
never let you down.
In addition to offering the ultimate in protection, the
stainless steel tubing follows the natural lines of your
motorcycle, accenting its distinctive look.
Touratech has crash bars for nearly every
model of adventure motorcycle. Available
in electro-polished or black epoxy
coated stainless steel finishes.
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PHOTO: TOURATECH
THE MAIL BOX

I just discovered your mag on the newsstand and will subscribe. Im a 69 year old teacher and occasionally bring my
bikes into the classroom in an effort to show kids there are
many fun things to do which dont involve drugs/alcohol/
etc. I enjoyed the COBDR story and will use it this year in
the classroom. Just wanted to let you know ADVMoto is
headed to school!

Keith Ingram, Clovis, NM
Thanks for thinking of us Keith! Were honored to be

in any classroom and please keep in touch with how the
lessons go.
Do you think Yamaha will bring the XT660Z Tenere to North
America for 2014? I like my KLR but the Tenere looks awesome!
Love the mag! Keep up the good work. Cheers from Canada.

If we only had a nickel for every time we hear this

question wed publish twelve times a year! Whether or
not the XT660Z will make it to our shores in 2014 is a
mystery of the powers that be, although ADVMoto is always snooping around for more information. We suspect
if the adventure and dual-sport industry continues its
rapid growth in North America, we may very well see the
XT660Z in the near future.
FINALLY found an issue on the newsstand and snatched it
up. The writing is good, the art is good. The subject matter
is just focused enough. I can read about Ninjas and Gold
Wings and MX bikes elsewhere, but dont want a magazine
dedicated to one brand, and there are plenty of dual-sports
out there. Very well executed.

Steve Owens, Clarksville, AR
Mark Luciani, Ontario, Canada
We love to hear from you! Submit letters to: Letters@AdventureMotorcycle.com.
GO LIGHT.
GO FAST.
GO FAR.
Adventure-proven
soft luggage.
No racks, mounts
or braces required.
DIRT
DUALSPORT
SPORT
ADVENTURE
Photo courtesy of Warn Industries
DESIGNED IN BEND, OREGON. MADE IN U.S.A. RIDDEN WORLDWIDE.

Find your local dealer at
giantloopmoto.com
or call 458-206-9113
CONTENTS
INDUSTRY NEWS
DVD Release
Marley Africa Road Trip
David Alexanian, innovative producer of Elixir Films, easily proves that he has
his finger on the pulse of what moves an audience. His ability to recognize a
winning formula in talented team effort helped his iconic moto-travel films
Long Way Round and Long Way Down skyrocket to popularity amongst a
growing audience of adventure riders and soon-to-be ones. It also caught
the eye of five-time Grammy winner, Ziggy Marley.
David said that Ziggy came to him with the idea of including his
brothers Rohan and Robbie with him in an off-road motorcycle adventure
through the land their father, Bob Marley, loved so much. He also wanted
to acknowledge the 30-year anniversary of their fathers landmark concert
celebrating the independence of Zimbabwe. David jumped on it, and
so did Ducati, who apparently wasnt going to pass up an opportunity
like this the way KTM did on Long Way. So, on Ducati Multistrada 1200s,
the Marley brothers shot this six-part docu-series to capture love of life,
adventure, and music.
Ducati and Elixir pulled together a launch event for the American
DVD release the only way fellow motorcyclists can... with press parties
sandwiching a ride on the best snaking mountain road in all of LA... the
Angeles Crest Highway. The 100+ motorcyclist ride was led by Ziggy and
Robbie up to the famous moto restaurant hangout, Newcombs Ranch.
Ziggy topped it all off with an intimate benefit concert to raise money
for the Chestowe Basic School in Port Antonio, Jamaica. What better way
to toast humanity and a great DVD release.
Check out ADVMotos November 2011 feature story for an up close
and personal account of the Marley journey.
MarleyAfricaRoadTrip.com
High-voltage touring
Electric motorcycles have been
on the scene for a few years, but
theyve been pooh-poohed as a poor
replacement for gas-powered bikes.
10
But just as four-strokes have mostly

pushed out two strokes, we might be
seeing the first signs of battery bikes
shoving the internal combustion
engine out the door.
The biggest knock against electric
motorcycles has always been their
range; limited battery capacity means
you just cant travel far without packing
a super-long extension cord, or having a
chase truck follow you with a generator.
But Terry Hershner, of Orlando, FL,
proved them wrong earlier this year.
Hershner made a 2,659 mile trip
along Interstate 10. from Florida to
California, on a modified Zero ZF-9. With
motorcycle innovator Craig Vetters
help, he streamlined his bike to improve

efficiency, and modified the charging
systemallowing him to juice the bike
up in an hour. This enabled Terry to
utilize the existing electrical grid on his
trip across the United States.
This was just one episode in
Hershners crusade to prove the
benefits of electric bikes; an earlier
cross-continental attempt was foiled
in December, but hes planning more
long-distance battery-powered
expeditions.
In a few years, who knows? Maybe
Hershner will be the first RTW rider on a
battery bike?
CONTENTS
Buying a Stich gets easier

For years Aerostich has been making their riding gear available
only via catalog, and they didnt really have much in the way
of a retail space at their Duluth, MN, location. Thats about to
changethe company is remodeling their facility and expanding the existing showroom so that customers can stop by and
shop right in Duluth.
Theyve also been working on other major plans. Twice
already this year the company has loaded up their suits and hit
the road for Oakland and Seattle, giving customers the ability to
get measured for suits in person. This way, unless the customer
spends too much time overeating while they sit in anticipation
of their suits arrival, their new gear should fit perfectly. Its a
brilliant way to improve on Aerostichs long-standing business
model, and should result in another generation of happy Stich
customers. Aerostich.com
Inaugural BAJA RALLY
October 46, Northern Baja CA, Mexico

This groundbreaking event sold out in a mere 36 hours! The Inaugural
BAJA RALLY de MOTOS will be the first ever roadbook-based rally raid to be
held in Baja CA. The rally has already attracted the likes of moto stars Larry
CONTENTS
Roeseler, Ricky Johnson, Johnny

Campbell and Andy Grider
and KLIM will be represented in
full force as riders Ned Suesse,
Kevin Muggleton and Chilly
White have all signed up to
compete.
Theres a tremendous amount
of buzz surrounding the event,
both in Baja and stateside, as
rally-nav starts to take hold in
Baja. The three-day pilot event,
starting in the historically rich
valley of Santo Tomas, known
best for its vineyards and winemaking, will cover nearly 300
miles during two days of special
stages. Creator Scotty Breauxman calls it, A cultural exchange
and educational experience for
hosts and participants alike.
BajaRallyMoto.com
11
PRODUCT NEWS
New lids from AFX

AFX has two new helmets coming out, the FX-17 and FX-140.
The FX-17 dirt helmet has a poly-alloy plastic shell, with a removable hypo-allergenic, anti-microbial liner. Theyve made sure that
this helmet flows plenty of air when you get into the tight stuff, with
11 vents, including openings on the chin, side, rear and forehead.
There are goggle strap grabbers to keep your eye protection in
place, and pockets in the
linings for communication system ear pieces. Its
available in several different colors and in sizes XS
to XXL, and the MSRP is
in the $90 range. It comes
with a lifetime warranty.
The FX-140 helmet
is a modular flip-front helmet, designed with safety
in mind. Its available in
AFX FX-140 modular helmet
Sitting pretty
with Sargent
If youre going to put lots of miles down, it helps if you have a
good seat. So, Triumph Tiger 800 owners should be happy to
hear Sargent has new World Sport Performance Plus and World
Sport Adventure Touring saddles to fit their favorite steeds. The
two-piece seats feature heavy-duty, grippy, waterproof covers, at standard and lowered heights which are built on lightweight base pans, widened for lateral support. Both seats can
be upgraded with Sargents Fine Wire heating pad, and feature
under-seat storage.
Pricing starts at $580 for the World Sport Performance seat,
and $550 for the World Sport Adventure Touring seat. Find
more details at SargentCycle.com or call 800-749-7328.
12
AFX FX-17 dirt helmet

two colorshi-viz orange and hi-viz yellow. Like the
FX-17, it has ear pockets for communication systems.
There are six vents on the chin, forehead and rear,
with a poly-alloy shell and removable liner. Theres
also a quick-release chin buckle, and a flip-down sun
visorall for a $129.95 MSRP with a limited lifetime
warranty. AFXhelmets.com.
IN THE BAG
Want a new set of soft luggage with a lifetime
warranty, at a reasonable price? Nelson Riggs
new CL-855 saddlebags are worth a glance.
Theyre made from UV-treated Tri-Max polyester, with reflective piping, coil-over zippers, heat
resistant inner panels, a universal quick-release
system, and internal stiffener panels to help them
keep their shape. They come with waterproof rain
covers, and carry almost 29 liters per side.
The bags have a lifetime no-hassle warranty
and sell for about $150 a pair. Find out more at
NelsonRigg.com.
CONTENTS
PRODUCT NEWS
Black Dog toughens

up the R1200GS LC
It hasnt taken the aftermarket long to catch up with the new liquidcooled BMW R1200GS. Black Dog Cycle Works (BDCW) has announced
a line of products that fit the new water boxer, including skid plate,
rear rack (compatible with Rotopax and WARN winches), radiator
guards, brake reservoir guard (with Powerlet port), platform footpegs,
sidestand enlarger, and an extra-long Helo Pad rack that replaces
both the rear seat and rack. And, they say theres more to come.
Company founder Kurt Forgt, says his new parts give the new GS real
armored protection, not just costume jewelryparts that only look like
armor, but actually fall short of protecting vital engine components.
Check out BlackDogCW.com or call them at (208) 263-4400.
FALL GEAR UP
SPECIAL!
FREE SHIPPING ON ALL
BMW ACCESSORIES
USE COUPON CODE
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14
CONTENTS
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Purpose :
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to perform across a wide variety of riding conditions, the XD4 delivers
performance no other helmet in this segment can match.
Comfort :
A simple concept that continues

to elude many,
but Arais experience makes it
appear almost easy. Find out why.
Facial Contour
System
Reward yourself.
All this and more at www.AraiAmericas.com/XD4
It's time for an Arai.
Learn what excellence feels like.
PRODUCT REVIEWS
Tourance Next Tires:

A NEW Long Distance
Tire Paradigm for
Adventure Touring
by Paul H. Smith
My head is still reeling from a recent 12,000
mile road trip around the U.S. and Canada.
In the planning stages, tire considerations
were very much on my mind. I eventually
decided to go with a dual-sport specific
road tire, knowing that they could be
aired down whenever off-road conditions
warranted it. And man what a PERFECT
decision that turned out to be.
It just so happened that Metzeler wanted
us to check out their new replacement for
the Tourance EXPthe Next. And, thanks to
Christopher Wall, a set arrived a few days
before departure.
The Tourance Next is Metzelers latest generation of enduro street tires, featuring new
compounds, profiles, structure and tread
pattern. There are several aspects unique
to the new tire that makes it unusually
relevant to adventure touring. The most noticeable of which is the tread pattern with
its differentiated groove layout and shape.
Its well kind of strange! The asymmetrical patterns of seemingly random
squiggles are similar to those found on the
latest crop of motorcycle tire designsso
radically removed from traditional tread
patterns they could be alien in origin. And,
so unusual that my first reaction was that
I just might have made a big mistake. As a
dual-sport and big enduro rider, Im accustomed to seeing lots of tread and in very
recognizable symmetrical patternsthis
was a little out of my comfort zone.
However, after scrubbing them in, a
shakedown ride proved my fears unfounded. Indeed, the Next tires enriched the
on-pavement handling characteristics
of the R1200GSA. Rider feedback was
excellent. The tires rode quieter, and ate
up irregularities, such as grooved concrete
and tar snakes basically rendering most
of them unnoticeable.
At first glance, one might not think so,
but theyre also rain tires. Rain? On the trip,
16
I had it in spadesand well over 3,000

miles of the wet stuff pelted from the sky
at various times as I rode across North
America. Metzeler claims that these tires
perform excellent in rain, and that their
design provides a chemical grip with water
evacuation properties. I not only agree,
but attest that they perform substantially
better than any other tire Ive ever used.
Most are calling the Next a 90/10 or 95/5
tire. Like many riders, I typically air down
to around 25 psi when Im off road for any
length of time. This provides a much more
sure-footed grip, especially when using
road tires. Theyre nothing like a full knob,
of course, but for getting around in the
gravel or dirt, they do okay. And, in comparison to a regular set of Tourances, there
were no perceivable differences.
How did they do on the long haul on
my big, overloaded GSA? Metzeler states
that the Next dual-compound rear tires are
designed for extended wear. Being accustomed to swapping rubber around 4,000
to 6,000 miles, I thought, Sure maybe
Ill get 8,000 miles out of them. Along the
way, periodic inspections of the condition
of the tires proved way beyond expectations. Even after 12,000 miles, both tires
barely showed any wear. And, checking the
forums, some riders are reporting as much
as 22,000 miles on the rear alone. For an
adventure touring tire, this is remarkable.
Apparently BMW agrees, because the
Next are now original equipment on the
R1200GS water boxers rolling onto the
showroom floors. Mileage is also improved.
PROS
Extremely long wear
Made specifically for
heavily-laden adventure
touring bikes
Great handling
CONS
Not suitable for off road
Lower profile slightly decreases the GS Adventures
ground clearance
Its difficult to say by exactly
what percentage, but Id estimate an approximate gain of five
MPG, on average (over regular
dual-sport tires), throughout
my trip.
Although no tire is a panacea
for all riding styles and conditions, in the category of Best Adventure Touring Tire, Id hand it
directly to the Metzeler Tourance
Next, without a second thought.
If youre planning to haul your
big enduro across a country
any country where conditions
wont exceed 90/10%, then you
cannot go wrong with this tire.
Theyre as close to perfect as
any tire weve ever ridden on.
MSRP: $197.95$276.95
Metzeler.com
CONTENTS
A D V E N T URE I S
ESSENTIAL
Adventure riding isnt
about predicting what
youll experience, its
about getting out there
no matter what. For this,
KLIMs Latitude Jacket
and Pant is the ultimate
traveling partner.
Weatherproof.
Armored.
Durable.
Visible.
Comfortable.
Ventilated.
And more...
PRODUCT REVIEWS
Garmin zmo
350LM Motorcycle
Navigator
by Paul H. Smith
With the zmo 350LMs 4.3" diagonal,
glove-friendly touch screen, its one
of a few industrial strength, water/
weather/shockproof GPS devices
made specifically for motorcycling.
In many ways, the 350LM compares
to the older zmo 660LM. Some big
differences include the rubberized
case, a higher-rez screen, and crystal
clear natural voice navigation. The
350LM also has an improved external
speaker for riders who arent using
Bluetooth-enabled communications,
or wired for helmet speakers. And, the
screen is much more visible in daylight, although contrary to Garmins
claim, it still leaves the user wanting
when the sun scores a direct hit.
The navi comes with a kit loaded
with an assortment of mounting
hardware for several different motorcycle dashboard applications,
including the components to wire
the 350LM into your bikes electrical
systemas well as portability attachments for using the unit in cars. If
you prefer to have a permanent, and
lockable mount, Touratech comes to
the rescue. Their aftermarket locking mount eliminates the necessity
of removing the navi every time you
leave the bike.
It needs to be said that, if one takes
the time to master the 350LMs full
capabilities, including its optional
Traffic Receiver dongle for real-time
road conditions, it can be extraordinarily useful.
Like most GPS devices, you can
program the unit with a PC, laptop or
notebook computer. Garmins BaseCamp software (which is free), interfaces seamlessly with the 350LM via
USB. Amongst other things, it allows
for highly detailed trip planning, and
18
supplies the big picture map one

needs to do this properly. Its easy to
use for plotting, marking waypoints,
developing tracks, etc., and transfers
data both to and from the zmo. This
is particularly handy for recording
where youve been, as the navi has
settings to keep track of such things,
not to mention data sharing with your
riding buddies. BaseCamp will also
plot elevations, as well as suggest the
most scenic routes to a destination. It
works directly with Google Maps, too.
However, the navis screen doesnt
provide much detail or useful larger
map views. It appears that Garmins
engineers designed the unit to be as
non-distracting as possible for motorcyclists. So, this lack of detail should be
considered a good thing. This is also
why most navi users still carry paper
maps in a tank bag for the big picture.
In some situations, voice instructions
of the 350LM are slightly counter-intuitive, and it may take a little practice to
familiarize oneself with its sometimes
quirky manner. This minor idiosyncrasy
isnt a big deal, but often rears its ugly
head when there are complex turns or
lane changes looming your way. Count
on making a few wrong turns during
the learning phase. That said, the navi
particularly shines when youre lost, or
need to get back on course after to detour, etc. And, if youve ever had to find
your way into or out of a big, sprawling

city, the navi is an indispensable tool.
The creative applications are endless.
Useful onboard gadgetry includes:
TracBackautomatically navigates
back the way you came.
Service History Loghandy for
things like tire mileage, chain cleaning, oil changes, spark plugs, tire
pressure and other maintenancerelated data that should be recorded.
And finally, the unit comes with a
waterproof slot that utilizes a microSD
or microSDHC memory card.
Garmin.com
zmo 350LM MSRP: $699.99
Traffic Receiver MSRP: $99.00
Touratech-USA.com
Locking mount kit MSRP: $189.00
PROS
Extremely durable and
weatherproof
Works with gloves
Free lifetime map updates
The first navi weve used that
locates satellites while indoors!
CONS
Cant be read in direct sunlight
Some menu functions are not
user-friendly
CONTENTS
The K270.
Official Tire of Your
Favorite Detour.
PRODUCT REVIEWS
Galfer brakes for the KLR60
Does Size Matter?

by Jeff Smitty Smith
The dictionary definition of oversize

is of excessive size; unusually large.
Were talking about brake rotors
big brake rotorsthe Galfer OVERSIZE Wave Rotor, to be specific.
The Galfer Oversize Wave Rotor Kit is
not just another good-looking farkle
for your ride. Made from Galfers
proprietary 420 stainless steel material, with eight grades of carbon, its a
beautiful piece of functional equipment. According to Galfer, the Wave
design increases frictioni.e., stopping powerby allowing the brake
to release its gasses and run cooler.
Additionally, all of the Galfer rotors
are laser cut. This prevents any stress
from being put on the rotor, as is the
case when stamping is used. After
being cut, the rotors go through a
double-disc grinding process and
a heat treatment process. The heat
treatment process differs for rotors
intended for different purposes and
PROS
Greatly improved stopping power
Less prone to overheating
Comes in a complete kit
CONS
May be expensive for some
20
thickness, which gives them specific

qualities for the application.
The Galfer Oversize Brake Rotor is
now available for the Kawasaki KLR
650. According to Galfer: The KLR
Oversize Kit was designed and developed through rigorous use, both
on an in-house project bike and on
Galfer employees personal KLRs. This
is great news for KLR riders who may
be less than satisfied with the stock
Kawasaki rotor.
Galfer offers the Wave Rotor in a kit
which includes a 320mm rotor, a relocation bracketrequired because
of its greater size over the stock rotorthe tried-and-true Galfer green
pads, and steel-braided brake line.
Installation of the kit is very simple,
requiring few mechanical skills. I installed the kit in about two hours on
my 2008 KLR650. But, I can imagine
someone with better mechanical
skills doing it in less time. Suffice it to
say that installation was very simple,
and the instructions were clear and
easy to follow.
After installing the kit, and
running-in the brakes, I took my KLR
for a test ride. I live near Big Sur, so
there are plenty of places to test the
brakes, both on and off road. Two
things immediately impressed me
about the Galfer Wave rotor. First, the
great feedback when stopping and,
second, the cooler running temperature much cooler!
On the road, the Galfer rotors offer
excellent feedback and stopping
power. The same feedback enjoyed
on-road is even more appreciated
off-road. The brakes never grabbed,
and never did I feel like I would wash
out the front end of my bike.
Bottom line, the Galfer Oversized
Wave Rotor for the Kawasaki KLR650
is well worth the chunk of change
you will spend for them. MSRP:
$289.00. GalferUSA.com
Gloves that make

you want to RevIt!
by Dan DiMaio
In the world of gloves, one size doesnt

necessary fill all. Although there are
riders wholl wear just about anything,
if youre like me, choosing a new pair
can sometimes be a task. These days,
with glove technology so advanced,
its surprising that so many could be so
uncomfortable.
Welcome to the RevIt! Sand Pro
Glovemy new favorite. These gloves
dont stop with their rugged off-road
looksthe palm surfaces are constructed of goat skin for durability and
sensitivity, while a hexagon-shaped
injected flex knuckle is not only
protective, it vents a huge amount of
air to the top of your hands, keeping
them cool in the summer heat. And,
the upper section is both fully stretchable and breathable, making these
some of the best venting gloves Ive
tried this hot season.
If youre looking for a glove that
stays true to that Adventure look,
while still offering protection and comfort when its toasty outside, look no
further. MSRP: $119.99 RevItUSA.com
PROS
Lightweight and comfortable
Mega airflow
Off road rugged looks
CONS
Price may be a factor for some
CONTENTS
EVENT REPORT
s
i
s
d
i
r
o
d
r
W
o
W
O
O
e
h
e
TTh
g
g
n
i
n
i
d
d
a
a
SSpprree
by
Words and photos
Nicole Espinosa
Remember playing the game telephone?
How the excitement of spreading the secret fell to the next

ear with a whisper and giggle? Now, imagine the secret as
an adult yielding the same goosebumps as you pass it along
through your fingertips and keyboard then multiply it
exponentially as each person spreads it to their web of contacts. This is how well get people off their couches this is
how were resetting priorities and stirring excitement for the
future... this is Overland Expo (OX).
Being that OX is one of the biggest events in the world for
adventure motorcyclists and overlanders, founders Roseann
and Jonathan Hanson have been throwing themselves into
its expansion. So, whats the secret to 25% growth across the
boardincluding exhibitors, overland experience students,
and day passers? Try their one-of-a-kind recipe for success that
takes in inspirational programs and presentations by colorful
world travelers and experts, 170 exhibitors with innovative
adventure products, books, films and services, and hair-raising
demos like the Land Rover driving course and RawHydes
adventure motorcycle rodeo. Each year gets bigger and better
than the last. And all due to the enormous energy the Hansons pile into lining up a newer and more exciting smorgasbord of delicacies for the adventure-hungry attendees to belly
up and get their fill of dreams.
22
Simon and Lisa

Thomas lend
their extensive
adventure
credibility to the
Touratech booth.
2013 witnessed an ever-expanding family of vendors and

presenters, while adventure traveling friends bonded in new
ways like never before. In reality, it cemented the fact that
we all share the same adventurous blood. Word spread fast
throughout last year that this event would be the greatest
one yet, so ordering tickets online, well in advance, meant the
difference between enjoying the event to its fullest with the
Overland Experience package, or making it in on a day pass.
This year, the 600 who paid extra for the entire package got its
weight in gold. They were able to dig into demos, workshops,
and classes representing the top echelon of trainers and
vendors in both the adventure motorcycle and 4x4 worlds,
while camping for free to enjoy the camaraderie around the
grounds. Our industry was certainly excited to see that half
of the 600 Overland Experiencers were motorcyclists, and as
Roseann pointed out, Wed like to think the other half want to
be adventure motorcyclists.
Six thousand enthusiasts poured through the gates after receiving word through the grapevine that this was a one-stopshop to get outfitted, trained, and inspired for their next big
adventures. The trick was being able to squeeze in as many
classes, demos, and presentations as time and stamina would
allow. RawHyde set the bar high in Motorcycle Village with their
own 150-rider Arizona Adventure Rally that ended at the event
and included free weekend passes along with gourmet fare
and drinks at the RawHyde Dakar Bar. Jim Hyde took the reins
CONTENTS
for his third year as Moto Village leader and coordinator, and built
a great flow and layout for the vendor area that WOWed attendees. And, RawHyde made sure the bulldozers punched out some
great whoops, hills, and plateaus to put beginning and intermediate skills classes to the test. The advanced classes were taken
off site to make use of Arizonas expert level off-road trails in the
higher elevated landscape outside of Flagstaff.
What made Moto Village so successful were the high-end
vendors who keep our industry geared up and outfitted. Redverz
Gear, Touratech, Black Dog Cycle Works, Twisted Throttle, Giant Loop,
MotoQuest, Schuberth, Lost for a Reason, Rugged Rider, and of course
Borden
ows Terry and Jack
sh
on
ps
m
Si
ff
Je
Adventure Motorcycle magazine, rounded out much of main street in
can bring.
iles only the Ural
sm
of
nd
ki
e
th
the village. All were set up and happy to demo gear and accessories
while taking care of any questions that came up.
The vendor who should get the award for causing the greatest
excitement was Mark Tetreau, of Scooter and Auto Sourceeasily the
most fun Ural dealer in the world. Roseann brilliantly placed him next
to our magazine booth at the very front corner of Moto Village to attract
attendees into our neck of the woods. Mark never turned off the engine
of the Ural Gear-Up workhorse, lighting up the faces of participants as
they climbed aboard for a quick sidecar motorcycle jaunt around the
event. My daughter and I had the time of our lives as RawHydes very
own top trainer, Shawn Thomas, grabbed one of Marks Urals to take us
for a flying chair spin around the motorcycle rodeo arena.
A major highlight of Moto Village, and the entire OX this year, was the
tes the art of
atech demonstra
celebration of Simon and Lisa Thomas 10th-year-on-the-road anniverIain Glynn of Tour
r a field demo.
changing a tire fo
sary. Lucky for us, they happened to be in North America, and chose OX
as the setting for this great fanfare. Their engaging presentation launched
the Saturday night party which was laced with professional quality photography by Simon,
and video footage that
Six thousand enthusiasts
had us demanding a TV
poured through the gates
show. The spicy and fun
to get outf itted, trained, banter between the two
made it obvious that
and inspired.
there was total adoration
and mutual respect, and
acknowledgment that neither would be here today without the other covering his/her butt on the road. What a way to put a marriage to the test and
prove that love can endure thousands of tire changes.
d Rugged
The ADVMoto an
Also of note, Austin Vince chose this years Adventure Travel Film Festival at
oto Village.
Rider booth in M
OX as the venue for the screening of his highly anticipated new film, Mondo
Sahara. Part of the Saturday night hoopla, many travelers came in from all
ty of
hack pulls in plen
over the United States to support Austins most recent adventure as the
A tricked out KLR
ns.
Mondo Sahara team took on the infamous Empty Quarter of the Sahara,
thumbs-up reactio
where no unsupported motorcyclists have ridden before. This region is so
remote that an advance party had to be dispatched to bury fuel, water, and
food at designated GPS locations so the Mondo Sahara team could cover the
distance of this tough terrain without a back-up vehicle.
If there was one thing that we all walked away with from this event it was
sheer excitement about the future. There was a huge buzz about being on
the road by this time next year, whether it was from solo riders with an itch,
families like Adventure Trio, or riders like me. We know that wherever our paths
cross in the future, we will be welcomed by a family that will continue to grow.
And, O how that will feel like home.
CONTENTS
23
PROJECT BIKE
With its reliable engine, comfortable
geometry and affordable price,
Kawasakis KLX250 series is one of
the best and most affordable 250cc
options around. Never leaving
well enough alone, we set out to
ADVMotize this already great
bike into something with higher
performance. In the process, we
also made it more comfortable
and usable to a wider range of
riders and purposes. A KLX you
could take to the store, on dirt
trails, or around the world
and not have to be over six
feet tall to ride.
ADVRide
Geometry
and Comfort
If you followed our ADVersys project, you
may already be familiar with how we love
to play with wheels. One of the scariest
problems for many riders is a bike thats too
tall for off-roading. Balancing several hundred pounds of hot steel on tiptoes is tough
enough on pavement, let alone on loose,
uneven surfaces. And, dirt exacerbates this
problem, especially for beginning adventure
riders. To help solve this, we started with a
stock KLX250SF, the motard version, with the
benefits of a 1" shorter, but stiffer suspension,
9" of suspension travel, a friendlier seat height
floor, and an upgraded 300mm front rotor
good for stopping with the
added weight of luggage.
To keep things simple, we kept the 17" rear
wheel, but performed a front 2" front upgrade
from the wheel maestros at Woodys Wheel
Works, giving the bike a 17/19-inch combo. After
testing by several riders of various sizes, backgrounds and skill levels, we ultimately ended
24
May/June 2013
September/October
2013
CONTENTS
KLX250SF Project Bike

Part One
FOR THE MASSES

by Carl Parker
...we ultimately ended

up loving the ability to
flat foot the bike while
still having enough
ground clearance for
trail riding.
The KLX250SF when purchased.
The KLX250SF
after stage one.
Now much more
dirt capable.
CONTENTS
25
FMF Q4 pipe shaves

weight, adds power
and sounds great!
Woodys Wheelworks 19"

front wheel is bulletproof
on this 250.
up loving the ability to flat foot the bike while still having enough
ground clearance for trail riding. Woodys built the wheel with a Rad
Manufacturing billet hub, heavy-duty spokes, and a black Excel Takasago rim, making it strong enough for bikes twice the KLXs weight.
The wide 2.5" rim width mounted with Vee Rubbers dual-sport 163s,
results in a nicely predictable ride on the street, perfectly capable of
soaking up the bumps on gravel and trail.
The front 17" motard rim was a bit crazy when mated to the
oversize 300mm rotor (only on the SF), but the 19" mod tamed the
brakes performance to a friendlier level, while lifting the front end a
bitall adding up to an overall more comfortable ride. If youre going for more dirt-oriented feel, it may be worth putting a 2.15" wide
rear, and a 19" rim on the front, which runs a bit narrower and may
give you a lighter wheel with quicker steering.
Not being a large bike means that many of the dimensions are
rather small, this includes the location of the mirrors, which hinders
the ability to see whats going on behind you. Although many dirt
riders often remove their mirrors altogether, those looking to get daily
use, especially in traffic or on highways, will appreciate SW-Motechs
beautifully finished mirror extenders.
Performance
FMF Powerbomb header

and TCI skid plate (without pump guards).
26
Perhaps the biggest complaint about the KLX250 is its severely restricted
performance settings from the EPA-compliant factor. Although this is
a very common problem in small one-lungers, there are a few options
available. After testing several of them, we went with the Dynojet
KLX300 carb kit, which has a dramatically more progressive taper to
the needle, delivering power much faster off the throttle especially
when mated to the 128 main jet.
Hot gas exiting the engine has fewer problems thanks to Flying
Machine Factorys (FMF) Q4 exhaust muffler and PowerBomb header.
Both stainless pieces are beautifully crafted, and provide a wonderful exhaust note, while shaving several pounds off the bike.
Although the rear passenger heel standoff had to be moved out
about half an inch to make room for the fatter pipe, installation
was easy, and the hardware is top notch.
Were bound to use the extra power now on tap, so oil
maintenance is even more important. Changing the oil under
various conditions on long distance, especially international
rides, will inevitably mean that oil filters wont be available at
some point. While paper filters are cheap and easy to come by
in developed nations, having a washable stainless steel filter
version pretty much solves the availability problem. The
Moose stainless filter fits great, and provides piece of mind
knowing this critical component can be reused no matter
where you are.
CONTENTS
Givis 33 liter Trekker is

great for commuting or
short off road trips.
TCIs radiator guard

works well and looks
nicely integrated
with the bike.
Luggage and Protection

Nothing hinders rideability more than damage incurred from impacts.
Despite the capabilities of the KLX250, very few armor manufacturers
offer robust accessories for this steed. Due to TCIs deep appreciation of
the KLX, theyve developed probably the most complete line of accessories, luggage and body armor for the bike today.
Starting up top, their Adventure Touring Windscreen works wonderfully, doing a great job of keeping the chill off, even for a 6-foot plus rider.
While not very sporty looking, its functionality cant be denied. But, if
you dont plan on much sustained highway riding, or winter commuting, then the same mount can be used to install a nifty front rack over
the headlighta great place to put a video camera and tool kit.
TCIs Skid Plate and Engine Guard combo are very solid, and can be
used separately. If you plan on off-road riding, a skid plate is recommended. And, TCIs radiator guards help ensure that you get home
with coolant in the engine. The quality of construction and finish are
excellent throughout the TCI product line, but we wish their installation manuals were better written.
TCIs Borrego rack is also very strong, and wide enough to accommodate any load youd want to put on a 250cc. But, it requires the
replacement of the OEM bolts, and also makes seat removal a bit
trickier in the field (especially if you drop or lose the small spacers).
To be fair, theres not many sturdy places to attach a rack on the
KLX, so its still making the best of a tough situationan issue thats
common on many bikes for accessory manufacturers.
On top of the rear rack, and mostly to accommodate commuting
and photography equipment, we fitted one of the new Givi TRK33N
Trekkers, and were impressed with its overall strength, style and
multi-use functionality. Although adding top cases to dual-sport
bikes doesnt seem to be in style, it is one of the easiest and most
convenient ways to triple the daily utility of your bike.
For extended trips on small bikes, soft luggage makes a lot of
sense, and there are a few options worth exploringespecially
Wolfmans modular systems, or Giant Loops Coyote tail bag. We inCONTENTS
stalled a Giant Loop Diablo tank bag, which looks

like it was made just for the KLX. The removable
base exposes the No-Toil billet venting gas cap
perfectly, and the bag itself is waterprooflarge
enough to hold your keys, wallet, phone, snacks
and some water. Upgrading to the Fandango, for
more room, is easy and uses the same base!
Last, but definitely not least, long-range trips
need more fuel than the tiny two-gallon stock
fuel tank can handle. Clarke, Acerbis and IMS all offer tank options for KLX250 models, but only IMS
uses the OEM plastics, requiring no modification
to install. Moving from 1.9 to three gallons is a
big jump in range, but also adds some extra wind
protection, and makes it easier to pinch the tank
with your legs during out-of-the-saddle riding.
Conclusion
Like any project bike, not all of the bits and

pieces we added will be necessary for some
riders. However, we can safely say that having a
modern, lightweight dual-sport bike, with a low
seat height, capable of real trail riding, commuting, and some two-lane overlanding, is a largely
ignored design from the factories. The ADVMoto
project KLX250SF is proving to be a real crowd
pleaser!
Now that weve made ourselves a good
KLX250 for street, travel and trail riding whats
next? Look for more power, comfort and gnarlier
tires from the KLX250SF as we take this project
bike a little farther down the road!
27
t under the Giant Loop Diablo tank

No-toil vented gas cap works grea
bag.
PARTS LIST
Product
Website
Price (USD)
Woodys Wheel Works

19" Wheel
WoodysWheelWorks.com
Vee Rubber VRM 163 F/R
VeeRubberUSA.com
FMF Q4 Exhaust
FMFRacing.com
$359.99
FMF PowerBomb Header
FMFRacing.com
$199.99
IMS Gas Tank 3 gallon
JustGasTanks.com
$247.99
Dynojet KLX300 jet kit
Dynojet.com
$64.89
Moose Racing Stainless

Oil FIlter
MooseRacing.com
$27.95
Krieger Manual Cam

Chain Tensioner
KriegerCamChain
Tensioners.com
$33.00
TCI Touring Windscreen
TCIProductsUSA.com
$199.95
TCI Skid Plate w/Engine

Guard
TCIProductsUSA.com
$239.95
TCI Radiator Guard
TCIProductsUSA.com
$99.84
TCI Borrego Rack
TCIProductsUSA.com
$119.95
Givi Trekker TRK33N
GiviUSA.com
$339.00
Giant Loop Diablo

Tank Bag
GiantLoopMoto.com
$164.00
No-Toil Venting Gas Cap
NoToil.com
$99.00
Twisted Throttle Mirror

Extenders
TwistedThrottle.com
$70.99
call
$79.95
TEST RIDER:
Donald Hunt
PROS
I was a little nervous after being asked if I wanted

to test out the Kawasaki KLX250, but after riding
it daily for a couple weeks Im really comfortable
on it now. I even find myself taking my Yamaha
FJR1300 out on gravel and terrain I normally
wouldnt just because I dont like being limited to
pavement anymore. I find that the upright seating position is really comfortable, making my
FJR1300 feel like an uncomfortable heavy pig.
CONS
A more comfortable seat would be a welcome
addition.
Needs fuel injection,, as the KLX can take
its time coming alive after you press the
start button.
It could use an increase in power, although
the only time I really noticed this was on the
highway when passing cars.
28
CONTENTS
Three days into my attempt to drive the length of Peru, the rear wheel of
my bike skidded off the edge of a narrow mountain track. I was thousands
of feet up in the Peruvian Andes and for a brief, terrifying moment, it was
spinning freely above a huge drop into the valley below.
uckily, I was taking part in the Mototaxi Junket; a two week overland adventure on some of South Americas toughest roads. It meant that I was
one of 15 teams in three-wheeled mototaxis, Perus answer to the tuk tuk.
Meanwhile one wheel was dangling precariously off the edge of the
track, the other two mustered up just enough traction to pull the bike and
co-driver back from the brink. I have to confess that I was a passenger in the
mototaxi, and Id already jumped out as my co-driver veered out of control
towards disaster. That sounds bad I know, but hear me out, I can explain....
The mototaxis imaginative design is created by chopping a 125cc city bike
in half, attaching a small uncomfortable sofa, and an extra wheel, to the back.
Theyre cheap to buy and run, and carry impressive loads on short trips. But
unfortunately, when you point these Frankensteins at 3,500km of mountain
and jungle track, they boast more of the handling characteristics of the sofa
than the city bike.
The brakes dont so much stop the bike as slow it down a bit. The drive
chain is only connected to the rear left wheel, which makes it list to the right
at all times. To corner at anything above walking pace the passenger has to
join in as counter-weight to stop the bike from rolling over. Hit any significant
hill and more often than not the passenger must get out and push.
30
Teams taking
on the Mototaxi
Junket 2010
make their way
through the side
streets of Cuzco.
CONTENTS
Junket
MotoTaxi
We learned quickly how to overcome these shortcomings,

especially when our lives were at stake. Case in point: when my
co-driver, Dan, hit a hole on that dusty single track, and the bike
bounced towards the precipice, my instant reaction by that time
was to spring out of my seat, grab the frame and use my body
weight to try to yank the bike back from the edge.
We gave that poor bike such a thrashing during the first 72
hours of punishing deep mountain tracks in northern Peru, that
the little 125cc engine never fully recovered. Incredibly, with
a gunning of the throttle that made a tortuous
sound like bamboo being shoved into the engines
fingernails, the mototaxi managed to crawl up
even the steepest roads.
The key to tough terrain and incline success is
momentum! To reach the utmost in efficiency, we
had to lighten our load with less kit and only the
minimum levels of water and fuel. We also learned
quickly that the timing of every gear change was
crucial to maintain uphill speed. And, whenever
we got close to stopping, the passenger had to
jump out to provide extra braking power. Couple
this with hope-deflating tight hairpin switchbacks that killed our momentum, and you have
the ultimate physical and emotional contest.
by Dan Wedgwood
Having only a decade-old map and no prescheduled

accommodations, required us to depend on wildly
varying estimates by the locals of travel time between
villages. This only added to the grand adventure when
arriving at one village during sunset, after 11 hours on
the dusty road. As we looked around, we noticed there
werent any guesthouses or hotels of any kind. But it
wasnt long before a fruit seller assured us that Maria
would look after us. Some vague directions led us to
an old blue house... and Maria, a laid-back old lady who
greeted us as if we were family. She set us up with a room,
Dan Wedgwood and his team mate Dan Bailey

passing a fellow Mototaxi just outside Jaen in
northern Peru. Mototaxis are used for carrying all
sorts of loads and cargo. Photo: Dan Wedgwood
CONTENTS
31
arranged for the mototaxi to be stored in a neighbors

garden, and pointed us towards a small metal shed that
turned out to be the village caf. And, to think what would
have happened if we had listened to mothers plea, never
talk to strangers.
On the way out of the Huancabamba Mountains, we
met our first Ronderosa rural locally organized security
force who charge a small and supposedly optional fee
at checkpoints for their services. I asked one of them if
anyone is attacked in this region. Yes, he replied matter
of factly, and continued, A couple of weeks ago a whole
bus was hijacked very violently, some were badly hurt, and
everyones valuables were stolen. Coincidentally, it also
happened on the road wed just driven along. We werent
sure whether this was a fictional story to scare us into paying the fee, or not.
Later we discovered that another Mototaxi Junket team
had passed this same checkpoint late at night and hadnt
seen the makeshift barrier until it was too late. As they were
barreling along, they decided the damage had already been
done, and disregarded the shouting of the guards. As the
team ploughed ahead at high speed, they heard a loud bang
in their general vicinity. The Ronderos warning shot left the
team wondering whether they were actually in the firearms
sights or had just been lucky. Either way, they escaped unscathed.
32
That scare kept us motivated to try and get up to speed as

quickly as possible. So, it was a massive relief to find ourselves
picking up enough momentum to finally engage the almost forgotten fifth gear on the big winding swathes of bitumen (British
term for asphalt) road, that rolled over forested hills. Spectacular views of rainforest stretching to the horizon in every direction announced our arrival in Amazonia. We were on the road
to Tarapoto, a major trade route into the Amazon basin, and a
popular route to Perus interior from the coast, where vehicles
were as heavily laden as the pre-rain jungle air.
Similar to the Ronderos, the local insects went after us with
aggressive military-like tactics. Each day, as the light started to
fade, an armada of angry golf-ball-sized flying bugs appeared
from the dense forest. They latched onto our headlight like a
tractor beam, and initiated suicide missions to enter our bodies straight through our eyeballs! At the same time, tiny black
flies took aim at our nostrils. And, bigger wasp-like things,
went straight for our necks and ears.
Beyond Tarapoto, we looped south for the second half of
our journey through the jungle. The bitumen ran out just beyond a rough town called Juanjui, and from there it was dark
red muddy track full of holes all the way to Tingo Maria.
This lonely, sparsely populated section, is not a well liked
option amongst tourists or locals. It has a particularly spicy
reputation, because areas nearby are controlled by drug
trafficking gangs. And, to keep their reputation intact, theres
CONTENTS
Peruvian Adventurist Michelle Borda strikes a pose

on the Bolivian salt flats on the first edition of the
Mototaxi Junket in 2009. Photo: Mark Turner
inforest
a
r
f
o
s
w
ie
v
Spectacular
horizon in
e
h
t
o
t
g
in
h
stretc
unced our
o
n
n
a
n
io
t
c
every dire
azonia.
m
A
in
l
a
iv
r
ar
Mark Turner, a British Adventurist surveys a small bridge

in the Peruvian rainforest on the first Mototaxi Junket.
Photo: Michelle Borda
Mark Turner
takes on a lonely
jungle track in
Peru on the first
edition of the
Mototaxi Junket
in 2009.
no shortage of stories about bandits attacking vehicles and

giving the occupants a good once over. At least the locals
admitted that things had calmed down recently. Sure
enough, we bounced along for two long days without
incident.
Even an uncrossable damaged bridge couldnt hold
us back. Ingenious locals had lashed together two small
wooden boats, on either side of a crude platform, to ferry
vehicles across the large river. Four outboard motors on
each small boat were controlled by four separate boatmen, run at full throttle and pointed directly upstream
against the flow of the river. Their combined power was
just enough to keep the bizarre craft from being swept
under, as it slowly edged us sideways to the other side.
By this point the bike was suffering. The mototaxi
had endured extreme off-road mountain tracks, jungle
mud, long days, steep hills, intense heat, several
torrential downpours, and nine days of bouncing in
and out of potholes and ruts. Its poor design had a
tough time meeting the challenge of the terrain and
weather, but the crazy little vehicle seemed to have
a heart, and thats what really kept us going.
Climbing back into the mountains, however,
was a step too far. Fifth gear had disappeared
then fourth and so on, until we were slowly
limping along in second gear through thick
CONTENTS
33
Peruvian Adventurist Michelle Borda

hangs out the back of her sofa bike as she
and husband Mark Turner take on some
Bolivian terrain that looks like Mars on the
first Mototaxi Junket in 2009.
Teams on the 2010 Mototaxi Junket stop

for a well needed rest for bike and rider in
southern Peru.
New Zealander Nick Robinson admiring

the alpine peaks of the high Andes on
one of the high passes between Cuzo and
Huancayo. Photo by Ross Denton
fog. With no visibility or power, things werent going well. So, the next
morning we admitted defeat and organized a truck lift to the city
where there would be mechanics and vital spare parts. With our pride
slightly dented, but the bike fully repaired, we were off on the final
lega long stretch of rollercoaster roads through the enormous mountains between Huancayo and Cuzco. Theres no simple way to build a
road through a mountain range like this. At the top it was bitter cold a
couple of hours later at the valley floor we were being bitten by mosquitoes, and sweating in the overwhelming afternoon heata constant
back and forth between high passes, and valley floors.
After 3,500km of wobbling and crashing along on our sofa-bike, we
made it to Cuzco to finally cross the finish linetime to down a few
beers, and say our goodbyes to the mototaxi. It had resolutely proven my
belief about the notion of proper, old-school adventuring. When you fill
your brain with unnecessary details, such as hotel reservations, mapped
routes, and sights you just have to see, you lose sight of the fact that
none of that crap really matters. As you concentrate on what appears in
front of you at every point along the journey, you shatter any expectations from pre-planning. This leaves one wide open to welcoming new
people and cultures along the way, while exploring new lands that
arent typically even in the guide books. And, if youre looking for true
adventure well, thats when things dont necessarily go well.
As the founder of The Adventurists said to the Mototaxi Junket teams
before the race began: If nothing goes wrongeverything has gone
wrong.
The Adventurists are run by The League of Adventurists International
Ltd, a U.K. based company not just hell bent on fighting to make the
world less boring, but also in raising massive buckets of cash for charities.
We figure that since were rather fond of adventuring in the world we
should do our bit to look after it. TheAdventurists.com
34
CONTENTS
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100 years of
by Sam Manicom
I thoroughly enjoy reading many of the tales of the road from

people who are riding the world, and I love soaking up their
enticing blend of joy, fear, disaster, and good times.
ecently my thoughts have been off in the direction of the early-day overlanders. What intrigues me
most about these travelers is the fact that many of
them were ground breakers, and had to prepare for
their adventures relying on little else than common
sense and enthusiasm.
Take Theresa Wallach and Florence Blenkiron for
example. These two amazing women were the first
to ride the length of Africa by motorcycle. Their tale
is wonderfully told in Theresas book The Rugged
Roads. What courage! 1935 was a time when women
werent even supposed to be wearing trousers, let
alone planning a bimble the length of Africa. To put
this trip into context, this was a time when Africa
was known as the Dark Continent, in part because so

little was known about it. There wasnt a well-worn route,
so this duo had to carry significant water, fuel and oil.
And, they needed a sidecar as well as a trailer to do that.
Imagine what it must have been like to have to tow all
that gear through the sands of the Sahara!
Then theres the story of 20-year-old Max Reisch, and
his pal Herbert Tichy, who are said to be the first to ride
a bike from Europe to India. They did it on a two-stroke
Puch. When I read their book India the Shimmering
Dream, I realized just how new this was to anyone
back then. And, even though they were ground
breakers, they made monumental mistakes along
the way.
...he car ried a .32 revolver and

40,000 feet of film for the movie
he sub sequently put together.
36
CONTENTS
Motorcycling
Theresa Wallach and Florence Blenkieron

with their trusty 600cc Panther Redwing
Model 100, Watsonian sidecar rig.
Perhaps a better known tale from this era is the

story of Robert Fultons 18-month adventure around
the world. His story was the first of its kind for
motorcycle journeys around the world back in 1932.
Youll have to snag your own copy of his book, One
Man Caravan, to find out how this journey rather
happened by accident. Within the book youll find
other gems such as how he carried a .32 revolver
and 40,000 feet of film for the movie he subsequently put together. And his bike? A Douglas twin.
In Around the World on a Motorcycle, Zoltan
Sulkowski, and his pal, Gyula Bartha, set
off from Paris in 1928 on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle and sidecaron an
eight year trip. They gave a very cleareyed view of the world in the 1930sa
world where the colonizing influences
of Europe had affected much of Africa
and Asia.
Overlanding enthusiast and passionate motorcycle traveler, Bernd Tesch,
has the largest library of motorcycle
CONTENTS
overlanding books in the world (TukuTuku.de)

check out the link for a real surprise! Hes also
the keeper of a huge database of overlanders
(BerndTesch.de), of which 90% of the stories are
in English. Bernd told me in 2011 that according
to his records 250 people have ridden the long
road round the world. But, he says, no one really
knows for sure, so if you estimate 500 people then
perhaps youll be closer to the actual count.
Who were the very early riders and why have we
heard so little about them? Is it because they were
private people who had little interest in sharing
their stories, or was it simply that in their day it was
almost impossible to get published? Or, were they
published and sadly their stories have faded never
to be heard of again? I wonder what tales they
could tell of a world that is, perhaps, lost forever.
Who was the first? According to Bernd, the first recorded round-the-world adventure started 101 years
ago. He very kindly supplied me with information:
In 1912, the journalist Carl Stearns Clancy along
with his film critic friend, Walter Storey, set off on
37
an around-the-world tour aiming to write a

world travel guide. They both rode four-cylinder Hendersonsalthough only Clancy made
the entire journey.
So now, you know he existed, the news
gets better still, renowned adventure traveler
and writer, Dr. Greg W. Frazier, has written
Motorcycle Adventurer, about Carl Stearns
Clancy. As the blurb from the book says, The 20-yearold completed his 18,000 mile ride around the globe
long before there were gas stations, motorcycle repair
shops, roads, ATMs, GPS, or the internet. His 10-month
journey took him from west to east across Europe,
Africa, Asia and the United States of America. Clancy
faced wild animals, bandits, unfriendly border officials,
lack of gas and spare parts plus the unknown of travel
Above Paul Pratt with borrowed Kawasaki 125 during the

launch of Kawasaki in the Philippines in the middle of his 13year RTW in the 60s and 70s. Below: Paul Pratt in front of the
Mayon Volcano in South Luzon with Yong Ja Kim from South
Korea as his pillion.
by motorcycle where no motorcyclist had

ventured.
With books like these around, perhaps that
world hasnt been lost forever. Maybe aspects
of the long road havent really changed
perhaps we can learn things of real value from
these riders of long ago.
For the likes of modern day adventurers, or
would-be adventurers, access to the web has
opened up a whole new world of knowledge.
38
Does that make traveling any easier or more interesting? Perhaps this huge access to information simply
bogs us down. Perhaps ignorance is bliss. Im not so
sure about that, but as always its what we do with the
information that matters.
One character who risked all was Paul Pratt. Not only
did he spend twelve and a half years riding his 650cc
Triumph Thunderbird around the world in the 60s and
70s48 countries in allbut he self-published the
book, World Understanding on Two Wheels. Self-publishing in those days was usually called vanity publishing,
and many releases were solely for family and friends to
see. By far, most such books were never made available
CONTENTS
to the public and, if they were, a run of no more

than 400 was typical.
Paul raised his head above the parapet, invested
every penny he could lay his hands on and stacked
the corridors in his home with boxes of books.
And, even though the title of his book is rather
unwieldy and slightly pompous, its very apt. Im
rather red-faced here when I say that, because I
judged the book by its cover. I should have looked
harder at its subtitle, An Introduction to Overland
Travel. But I did buy a copy and wished I had
come across it before Id set off on my own journey around the world. This book is a first and Paul
is, to my mind, one of those early travelers who
should be sharing more of the current limelight.
Sadly, Paul died in 2010, at 84, but I was lucky
enough to have had the chance to meet him in
2007. He was still riding his Triumph, and you
could see the joy the bike continued to give him.
One of my favorite quotes from Paul is, What
you see on TV is not the world you see from
the road. He also wrote, In current times so
much of the emphasis seems to be on making
it round as quickly as possible. Television makes
it all look so easy, so instant. Thats anathema to
me. In the end, speed travelers just dont give
enough of themselves back; they have no time.
Theyre missing out because one of the main
thrills about long distance travel comes from
the relationships you form with the people you
meet out there.
I asked Paul if he thought that there was
anything special about his round-the-world
Austrians Max Reisch and pillion rider Herbert

Tichy in 1933 at the start of their record making
ride on a Puch 250cc from Kufstien in Austria to
Bombay in India.
Carl Stearns Clancy on the Henderson

motorcycle he used for his Dublin to
New York RTW in 191213.
CONTENTS
39
trip that made it successful. There are real keys, he

said. Age isnt an issue, and you dont have to be brave
or insane, but its more to do with a state of mind. You
have to have a sense of humor, you cant shy away from
discomfort, and it helps if you are prepared to take a
few calculated risks. You have to be able to adapt to the
environment you find yourself in, and you need to be
able to relate to people.
Max Reisch and
Herbert Tichy arriving in Lahore and
being greeted by the
president of the Indian
Olympic Committee Dr.
Sondhi and his wife. The
picture appeared in many
newspapers around the
world, as it really was the
first time that a motorcycle had conquered the
land route to India.
We can learn much from these early-day travelers. Every tip

of Pauls comes from hard-earned and well practiced experience. His book contains tales of the road which keep all of the
practical advice in perspective; thoughts-into-reality situations.
If nothing else, his story is an enthralling step back into times
that will never be the same again. He told me, I hope that my
journey will help readers to understand how their own instincts
are the very things that can give them an experience which
theyll be notching up as one of the best things they did in their
lifetimes. Now thats a thought that hasnt changed in at least a
hundred years!
Sam Manicom spent eight years traveling around the world by
motorcycle and is the author of four motorcycle travel books. All
are available from Amazon in both paperback and Kindle. His
first book, Into Africa, is now downloadable from iTunes as an
enhanced eBook. Sam-Manicom.com
Bibliography: World Understanding on Two WheelsPaul Pratt, ISBN 0 9507353 0 2; India the Shimmering DreamMax Reisch, ISBN 9780-9556595-9-1; The Rugged RoadTheresa Wallach, ISBN 978-0-9564975-2-9; One Man CaravanRobert Fulton, ISBN 978-1-8843130-5-9;
Around the World on a MotorcycleZoltan Sulkowsky, ISBN 978-1-8843137-7-6; Motorcycle AdventurerDr. Gregory Frazier, ISBN 978-14502214-1-2.
40
CONTENTS
CONTENTS
41
THE
ARTOF TIRE-
PART ONE
by Paul H. Smith
s motorcycle overlanders and

backcountry riders, one thing we need
to master is the art of tire changing.
Whether its fixing a flat, replacing a worn
tire, or swapping it with another type, this
is one skill you dont want to leave home
without.
Our two-part series focuses on in-the-field tips and
tricks for getting non-motorcycle-specific tires off and
on their rimsas quickly and effortlessly as possible.
Over the last three years, weve gathered and tested
virtually everything out there. This series is an attempt
to distill it all down into what we consider the most
practical and workable system. Part One details tire
removal, while Part Two (next issue) will discuss getting
it back on the rim. We hope youll find this useful.
Optimized procedures
After the wheel is off, youll need a surface that is free

from dirt, and firm but soft enough to not damage the
wheels rim or disc brake(s). Starting with a drop cloth
of some kind, make a simple platform with the wheel
up on a rim, high enough to protect the disc brake.
Do this using found objectsbricks, wood, items from
your bikes kit, a heavy set of motorcycle boots, etc.
Another trick is to dig a hole big enough to recess the
disc brake from surface contact.
If youll be remounting the same tire, use a grease
marker to indicate the location on the tire next to the
valve stem. When the tire is remounted, use this mark
to relocate this position. This trick will save you from
having to rebalance. Similarly, many new tires come
with a painted mark thats intended to be located next
to the valve stem. Apparently, this mark indicates the
position on the tire that has slightly less rubber to compensate for the valve stem when balancing. It doesnt
take the place of balancing, but typically requires less
lead to do the job.
42
Using a tool like BestRest Products BeadBrakR makes one of the

most difficult in the field tasks of breaking tire beads not just
easier, but possible.
Tire removal
Start by removing the valve stem core. There are special

tools for this purpose, but the simplest is a valve stem cap
with a coring tool built in. Deflate the tire first, then unscrew the stems core. Do this carefully as any remaining air
pressure could accidentally eject the tiny core a difficult
object to find if you lose it.
The next task is to break the bead. All tires have two
ringed beads that either hold the tire to the rim (tubed versions), or seal the tire against the rim (tubeless). You must
break beads on both sides of the tire in order to remove it.
Beads are REALLY stiff and difficult to work with ONLY if you
dont use proper technique. The methods we settled on use
the sidestands foot, and/or a special tool designed for the
purpose, such as BestRest Products BeadBrakR.
One of the most vital, yet often overlooked, kit items is tire
lube. Use watered-down dish soap, WD40, or preferably a
substance made specifically for this purpose such as BestRest
Products BeadGoop. Start by liberally lubing the area of the
CONTENTS
G
N
I
G
N
CHA
A handy trick taught by Horizon Unlimiteds Grant Johnson,

is to use a BMW packing strap to keep the center stand from
collapsing during a tire change. These packing straps have
multiple uses and are often free for the asking from BMW
motorcycle dealers.
tire against the rim on the first bead. Work fast because the
lube must be wet to function. Apply more as necessary. Using
either the foot of the sidestand, or a device like the BeadBrakR, push down on the tire about out from the rim until
it separates (this procedure requires A LOT of pressure!).
Note that separation of the bead from the rim may be
impeded by tire rubber thats partially annealed (stuck) to
the rim. Know that it will break free its just a matter of
working it. And, sometimes it requires a combination of
methods to get the job done. The BeadBrakR is a great
tool for the taskbut use your motorcycle gloves for
added leverage, and to insulate your hands from the
hard metal edges of the lever. The BeadBrakR kit may
seem heavy and complicated, but keep in mind that it
comes with three perfectly-sized tire irons (which can be
substituted with Titanium versions to save weight), and
all of its other components weigh less than a pound,
CONTENTS
taking up little space. Whichever tool you use,

keep pushing down on the tire until it breaks free
of the rim. Then repeat about every four inches
along the bead until the bead is fully separated
turn it over and do the other side. You can also use
your feet to help separate the bead from the rim
after its initially broken.
After the beads are broken, getting the tire off the
rim is far less effort than many suppose. Both Grant
Johnson and Dave Petersen* (see sidebar) warn
that if youre working too hard, then youre doing
something wrong. All motorcycle rims have an inner
trough (groove or channel) that must be utilized for
this process. The inner trough reduces the parting
circumference just enough to allow the bead to clear
the rim. Lube plays a vital role, too.
43
Above left Using the side stand to break the bead often
does the job. It certainly has the leverage. But if you dont
have a center stand to balance the bike on, the maneuver
can be difficult, if not impossible, to pull off.
Above right Knee pads (or padded riding pants), plenty
of tire lube and a little leverage will help to get the tire
off the rim.
Tire-Changing Kit (the Basics)
Tire pressure gaugemost are junk, spend the money

for a good one. Recommendation: EZ Air Gauge by
BestRest Products.
Tire pump (manual or electric)electric is more convenient and easier to use. Recommendation: CyclePump
Adventure Model by BestRest Products.
Tire irons (set of three)consider the Titanium option
for weight reduction. Recommendation: The BeadBrakR
kit from BestRest Products, comes with three tire irons.
Lubeits easy to destroy a tire without lube, and the
process is virtually impossible without it. Recommendation: BeadGoop from BestRest Products. You may also use
WD40 or watered down liquid soap.
Valve stem removal toolthere are valve stem caps
that double as removal tools.
Donor hosethe brilliant invention of Dave
Petersen (described in Part 2 of this article) from
BestRest Products.
Talcum powdernecessary for puncture-free tube
insertions.
Dyna Beadsa way around complex tire balancing
methods with lead weights.
Grease markerfor marking tires.
44
DO NOT USE LONG LEVERS! They only increase the

chance of damaging the bead, the rim, or both. An
inviolate rule is if you think you need them youre doing it incorrectly. The procedure is best performed with
three short (~8.5) levers, like those that come with the
BeadBrakR. Again, if youre doing this correctly, youll be
able to remove even the heaviest big enduro tires with
these tools.
Lube the bead area of the tire and the metal rim. With
the wheel on your makeshift platform to prevent damage
to the disc brake, and the valve stem farthest away from
you, use your knees (motorcycle pants with knee padding
work great) to push the tires bead immediately in front of
you into the trough around the center of the wheel. Take
a single tire lever, insert it at the rim about 1" to the right
or left of the valve stem, and peel the bead away from the
rim. It should come relatively easily if your knees are doing
their job. Holding the first tire lever, insert another about
3" away and repeat. Now, you must hold both levers towards the wheel hub while you insert the third lever, and
peel back more bead over the rim. Its a bit of an awkward
maneuver, but essentially this procedure is repeated until
about half of the bead is off the rim. Then, reach under
the bead and push the wheel away, or pull the rest of tire
away from the rim. If youve pushed the bead into the rims
trough with your knees, and use lube, itll come right off. It
may take a little manhandling, but again, if the effort is too
high, youre doing something wrong. Double-check these
instructions.
For the flipside use lots of lube around the rim and bead
(its tricky to get it in there!), push the bead down and into
the trough with your knees on the opposite side of the
valve stem, and with a single lever, pry the bead over the
same rim as you did on the first side. Then, using the other
two levers, keep working the bead away from the rim until
CONTENTS
Our 3 day training camps are for new and

experienced Adventure riders. Learn how to
travel ADV style and perfect the riding skills
needed for riding off pavement.
Our BDR Camps are training intensive expeditions on

the WA Backcountry Discovery Route (wabdr.com).
Train while our expert adventure instructors lead you
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Train in a specially designed closed-course training field with
We provide a day of skills training before heading out on the
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CONTENTS
45
Left Tire rubber often sticks to the rim,

making a less than optimum surface for
setting the bead. It can be cleaned with
a piece of emery cloth.
The Gurus of Tire-Changing

Easily one of the key resources for tire-changing tools and information is
BestRest Products (BestRestProducts.com). Dave Petersen, the companys
head honcho, seems to have devoted his life to the task. Hes invented and/
or amassed a collection of tire changing methods and repair tools optimized
for in-the-field repair. With few exceptions, we found that Daves tools made
the tasks easier. Another key resource is Grant Johnson, of Horizons Unlimited
(HorizonsUnlimited.com) fame. Grant is not only the co-founder of HU,
but may also be the best educator of resourceful tire changing techniques
in the field.
Special thanks to the following people and companies for their kind
assistance:
David Petersen, BestRest Products (BestRestProducts.com)
Grant Johnson, Horizons Unlimited (HorizonsUnlimited.com)
Christopher Wall, Metzeler/Pirelli (Metzeler.com)
John Leale, Vee Rubber (VeeRubberUSA.com)
Helge Pedersen, GlobeRiders (GlobeRiders.com)
Kurt & Martha Forgt, Black Dog Cycle Works
(BlackDogCW.com)
Paul Guillien, Touratech (Touratech-USA.com)
JC Matsuura, Alpina Tubeless STS (AlpinaWheelsUSA.com)
Michael Battaglia, On Any Moto, Tuscon, AZ
(OnAnyMoto.com)
Curtis Smith, Eurogeek Motosport, Flagstaff, AZ
(Facebook.com/EurogeekMotosport)
46
about a third of it is off. At this point, its

usually easier to stand the wheel up
on end, with the peeled section facing
up, push the rim down with one hand
while using your knee and the other
hand to pull the tire away from the rest
of the rim. Again, this requires a little
manhandling, but if youve pushed
the bead sufficiently into the trough
of the rim, and use lube, itll be much
easier. The knee pads of your riding
gear are a great help, too.
With the tire off the rim, inspect the rim for damage and/or
a buildup of annealed rubber. If
theres rubber stuck to it, its a good
idea to take the emery cloth and
polish it off. Also, if its a tubed rim,
itll have some kind of rubberized
strap around the center trough. If
this is damaged youll have to repair
or replace it.
In the next issue, Part 2 will go
over tips n tricks for in-the-field tire
mounting.
Optional Kit
Bead breaking tooloften a side stand

will do the job, but it can be awkward.
Recommendation: BeadBrakR by BestRest
Products.
Tire bead setting toolfor stiff tires,
especially tubeless, that arent cooperative. Recommendation: BeadSetR by
BestRest Products. This modified ratchet
set has multiple other uses.
High capacity CO2 canister inflator
another trick for seating the bead, but
expensive to use. Recommendation:
Genuine Innovations (Touratech-USA.
com).
Changing matalternatively you can
use your riding jacket or a towel. Recommendation: Changing Mat by TrailMaster
Adventures (BlackDogCW.com).
Emery clothfor cleaning rubber and
debris from a rim.
CONTENTS
MACHINES
7/19/2013
www.motomachines.com
11:08:15 AM
BDCW is not affiliated with Black Dog Custom Cycle Mfg. LLC.
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CONTENTS
47
WORLd-CLASS ADVENTURE in
by Bret Tkacs
f you are looking for a world-class adventure ride in the

lower 48 look no further. This IS the ride to do!
The WABDR (Washington Backcountry Discovery Route)
is approximately 650 miles of forest service roads, fire
roads, and jeep trails connecting Oregon State to Canada.
This incredible route will take you along the high mountain
ridges of the Washington cascade, and past the rich soils of
eastern Washington.
Living in Washington, and being too late in the season for
another trip to Alaska or Mexico, I took a trip on the WABDR
running south to north the first week of October. The first
leg of the route is a great warm-up beginning at the Bridge
of the Gods near Stevenson, where you will be led north
through the heavy forest canopies of western Washington.
This first leg ends near the small logging town of Packwood,
where youll begin the longest stretch of pavement along
the WABDR. This isnt a bad thing as it will take you along
Highway 12, one of the scenic highway passes, towards the
east side of the state where youll rejoin the dirt for your
northern treks.
The second leg is my favorite, being the most technically
challenging (there are less challenging alternates for lesser
skilled riders and bigger bikes). It was impossible to stop smiling as I shot along the backroads ranging from well maintained
forest service roads to forgotten jeep trails. Like a mountain
goat trail, the roads move back and forth as they climb the
steep mountain walls, providing breathtaking vistas all the way,
every turn in the road calling for you to pause and take in the
majestic snowcapped mountain peaks surrounding you.
As the WABDR transitions from the dense evergreen forest of
the west to the sparse pines of the drier climate, the ground becomes looser and more challenging. Beastly bikes like the BMW
R1200GS can wrestle and push their way through this second
48
CONTENTS
CONTENTS
49
Brets favorite quote, If theres

no picture it never happened.
So always stop and document
your ride.
Theres the easy

way and theres
the challenging way.
Bret performing his traditional

luggage durability test by tossing one his panniers down the
trail (at least once per trip).
50
CONTENTS
PSSOR guide/instructor, Bret Tkacs, kneeling in

front Mt. Rainier and six new adventure riders on
their first true off-pavement adventure.
leg, like a bull pushing through a crowd of people. Its more

work than pleasure, though, as this section is an absolute
dream ride for bikes like the KLR650, BMW G650GS, or even my
travel companion, the BMW F800GS; the remaining four legs
are easy to traverse even on a V-Strom, or other more streetbiased adventure machines.
Of course there are less challenging alternatives for larger
bikes or less experienced adventurers. The end of the second
leg lands in the city of Ellensburg, where there are ample
stores to resupply if needed (one of the best street rides in
Washington leaves south from Ellensburg along the Yakima
river worth the detour if you have the time). The next four
legs lead you to the Chopaka border crossing and continue
to take you up and down the mountains, across valley floors,
along the shores of Lake Chelan, through forest ravaged by
fire, and along high mountain ridges where you will underCONTENTS
le to
ib
s
s
o
p
m
i
s
a
w
t
I
ili ng as I shot
stop sm
ds
a
o
r
k
c
a
b
e
h
t
g
n
o
l
a
stand how Zeus felt as he looked down on the world below.

Camping is abundant along the way, and there are even
some state campgrounds if you prefer facilities. Each of the
six legs lands near civilization for those preferring the comforts of a hotel and hot meal. Most of my adventure riding
is closer to dirt than street, and I was expecting this to be a
real bore I was happily disappointed. This ride rocks and
was vastly more entertaining than even my recent trip to
Alaska! Now I understand why adventure riders are flying to
Washington State from all over the world to take advantage
of these incredible roads and scenic vistas.
If you are new to adventure riding, or self-taught, there is
even a riding school in Washington that offers spring training camps to prepare you for rides like this check them
out at AdvCamp.com.
51
i ng
k
o
o
l
e
r
a
u
o
y
If
for a world-claesisn
adventure rid i s IS
the lower ...th
the ride to do!
Maps and video of the WABDR

Touratech-USA.com
Free GPS downloads
WABDR.com
To rent an adventure bike equipped
for the WABDR go to TourUSA.us
WABDR notes
Most riders will take four to six days to

complete the WABDR.
Much of the route is without cell service so
a SPOT, PLB, or sat phone is recommended.
This is a great ride for riders with some
experience but not good if it is your first
time off pavement.
Free camping is available along most of
the route, pay sites are available, as well.
Route was selected for larger adventure
bikes in the 650cc range and above.
Route can easily be traveled as a complete
route or in sections.
There are a plethora of twisty scenic paved
roads surrounding the WABDR.
Pack a first aid kit and know what you are
doing these are remote areas.
Eastern Washington is always dry...
right?! (Section 2, Umtanum Ridge.)
52
Strongly recommend wearing off-road

boots or heavy-duty adventure boots.
CONTENTS
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CONTENTS
53
Montana Off-Road
Experiences
54
CONTENTS
by Hilary St. Jonn

hen I first visited Bozeman, Montana, I came for just a month to
celebrate Christmas with my family, who had recently relocated there.
Then, unforeseen circumstances resulted in my moving to the city, and
its now been a year since I first set eyes upon the valley.
Bozeman is a small city in a large state with little population (Montana is the
fourth largest state by area, but has the seventh lowest population, at just above
one million residents), and is located in a valley surrounded by mountains, meaning its perfect for ridinga bikers dream. Montana has the Bridger Mountains, the
Crazies and the Tobacco Roots, all of which are within easy riding distance of Bozeman. Each of these mountains offers amazing scenery and camping opportunities,
in addition to perfect off-road trails. From basic dirt roads to the gnarlier, rocky trails,
theres something for every biker.
I came to Bozeman in the dead of winter, with plenty of snow and very cold temperatures. So, riding was not on my mind at all. But, as the snow melted, the riding
urge came on strong, motivating me to get my affairs in order (in other words, find a
suitable bike!) so I could ride as soon as possible.
The motorcycle that took me off road for the first time (with which I also toured
Albania, Montenegro and Bulgaria) was a Suzuki DR350. Shes still in Europe, where I
learned to ride, but I knew I wanted another one just like her. Lucky for me, DR350s
are available just about everywhere, including right here the United States. However,
knowing that Montana is a large state with very few people, I was uncertain of finding
one close by.
Luckily, with the help of friends, I was able to pick one up, and it was only a four-hour
round trip away. With less than 7,000 miles on the odometer and being a 1999 model,
she was in pretty good shape. Of course a few modifications were needed, such as a
larger gas tank, hand guards, better mirrors, a luggage rack and top case.
My first trip on the DR350 was around the Bridger range closest to Bozeman, with
a group of guys on Kawasaki KLR650s. After a brief exploration, we headed across the
valley to the gorgeous Tobacco Roots mountain range. As we approached, we drove on
a dirt road running alongside old wooden houses and sun-stained, crooked wooden
fences. You will not find many people in this wilderness area, and I felt as though I was
transported back to Eastern Europe, the experience reminding me of Albania, one of my
favorite countries.
As we climbed the mountain pass, which led between Manhead Mountain and Queens
Hill, increasingly more snow appeared. Unfortunately, not everyone had the proper tires, so
we turned back. While I have nothing against bigger dual-sport bikes, and one day hope to
be the proud owner of a KTM 990 Adventure, sometimes riders on larger bikes dont want to
CONTENTS
55
go where my rugged little DR350 will take me.

Thankfully I met Paul, who became my Bridger riding buddy. He lives at
the base of the Bridgers with his five motorcycles, three of which are small
dual-sports. We quickly became friends, and began riding together most
weekends. We both have GoPro Hero2 video cameras that provide us with
ongoing memories of our adventure rides.
I had no idea how nearby some amazing off-road trails were until we
met. Since Paul lived only 15 minutes away, and it was another 15 minutes
to the mountain base, we had plenty of opportunities to explore the Bridgers. It was rare to run into other people on these single-tracks surrounded
by dense forest. In the spring, everything was green, fresh, and breathtakingly gorgeous.
Most Montanans are extremely friendly. Whenever we took a break,
passersby would often strike up conversations. There appears to be a
different pace of life here in Montana perhaps even more so out in the
beautiful open.
The Bridger Mountains were also where I had my first major off-road
crash. We were taking the Iron Horse Trail up to the top of the Bridgers.
The path was wide, but there were huge chunks of rock. On the left side
of the trail was a cliff wall, and on the right a drop to the river. Not so far as
to be fatal, but steep enough that it would be a hassle to get the bike out
if it did tumble down that path. We were making our way up, and I was
in the lead. I was doing quite well, too, until my back tire got caught in a
rut heading towards the cliff! When in doubt, use more throttle, which is
exactly what I didbut to no avail. As my bike started her way down the
cliff, I jumped off, landing face first in a pile of rocks. OUCH!
Although Im an all the gear, all the time kind of girl, I hit something
hard against my nose, and was thoroughly bruised all over. The crash
did, however, make for great video, which was

watched over and over again that night at a
party, everyone gasping when the camera hit
the rocks. However, accidents will happen, even
amongst careful riders, so once I healed, I was off
riding again.
My final trip of 2012 was an overnighter, this
time with Benton, whom I met through my YouTube videos. Getting to the trail itself was quite
an ordeal with the truck. But at the trailhead,
we packed everything we needed on the bikes:
tents, sleeping bags, food, and beer to quench
our thirsts after a good days ride. We wended our
way through the mountain range on mainly open
single tracks, and while it was a dry summer, the
scenery was still beautiful. Adding to the beauty
was the fact that we could ride for miles without
seeing a soul. We ended up at a lake, but to get
there, we had some gnarly trails to maneuver. At
one point I tipped over (short leg syndrome). I
tried to get the bike up, but with all that luggage
it wasnt easy. By the time Benton made it back, Id
managed but was totally exhausted.
Theres nothing quite like being alone on a lake
at night, with the moon reflecting off the water.
Endless mountain views and dirt

roads abound in Montana.
56
CONTENTS
The next morning we began winding our way back to the truck. The rocky
parts got my heart racing. I knew I needed to go quickly to keep traction, but
there were huge boulders to negotiate, requiring a lot of focus and attention. In
the end, I decided to slowly crawl my way through the rocks and water. It may
have not looked graceful, but it got the job done.
As we turned onto a paved forest road, Benton suddenly pulled over. Something was wrong with his rear tire. We took a look and were completely shocked
to find a hook entangled in the wheel and brakes. There was no way his bike was
going anywhere; the back wheel was completely locked up. Being the well-prepared adventure rider, I had tools with me. We tried prying it out, but the hook
wouldnt budge. After a little break, we approached the problem from a new
angle, taking another hook, and using that to pry the jammed one free. Thank
goodness for calm minds and ingenuity. We then completed the remainder of
our trip without any further setbacks, winding our way through the mountain,
99% of the time on dirt roads.
Never would I have imagined that off-road riding in Montana would offer
so much in the way of beautiful vistas and abundant natural locations. Nor did
I think that it would be so easy to meet so many amazing people who would
share what theyve discovered in this great state, showing me why everyone
loves the mountains of Montana!
Hilary St. Jonn is an avid off road motorcyclist and has explored many countries via
two wheels. Read about her adventures on her website Dirty Motorcycle Adventures (DirtyMotorcycleAdventures.com).
CONTENTS
Hilary, the author,

taking a needed
break for a day of
rocks and switchbacks.
Chasing
by Christopher P. Baker
Eighteen years have passed since I first rode

my R100GS to the Bay of Pigs during a threemonth-long, 7,000-mile exploration of Cuba
as a professional journalist. Eighteen years
spent dreaming of leading the first U.S. group
motorcycle tours of the island.
inally Im so stoked, I cant suppress my glee any

longer. Weeeeeheeee!
As the group files in one by one, I direct the participants to
park their Beemers and Harleys outside the Bay of Pigs Museum and line up beneath the wings of a British-made Sea Fury
that saw action defending Cuba against the CIA-sponsored
invasion, in April 1961, by a Cuban-American exile army. Then I
ride my F800GS into the midst of the group and have a museum
guide shoot a photo for posterity beside a giant billboard that
reads: PLAYA GIRN [Cubas term for the Bay of Pigs]. THE FIRST
ROUTE OF U.S. IMPERIALISM IN LATIN AMERICA.
Congratulations! I exclaim. Youve just made history. Youre
the first yanqui motorcycle group to explore Cuba end-to-end
since the U.S. embargo was enacted in 1960.
Only 90 miles separate Key West from Havana, yet in many ways
the Florida Straits is the widest moat in the world. Nonetheless,
Uncle Sam bars U.S. citizens from solo travel to Cuba (exemptions
exist for Cuban-Americans, journalists, humanitarian and religious
travel, etc.). And shipping a bike from the United States? Forget
it! Since my solo journey in 1996 you can count on one hand the
number of Yankees whove ridden through Cuba.
Fortunately, in January 2011, President Obama inched the
door open by creating a new license category permitting any
U.S. citizen to legally travel to Cuba for educational cultural
exchanges run by companies and institutions that could now
apply for such a mandate.
In 1995, I contacted Skip Mascorro, founder of Texas-based tour
company MotoDiscovery, for advice on planning my journey. We
stayed in touch. Last year he asked me to draft a license application
and sample itinerary. Bingo! In January 2013, 14 eager motorcyclists
flew south from Miami to participate in a 14-day all-Cuba program
under a special license issued in April 2012 by the U.S. Treasury Departments Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC), which oversees
58
Che Guevara, the Argentinian revolutionary

who became Cubas Minister of Finance &
Industry, is the most iconic figure in Cuba.
CONTENTS
Che
CONTENTS
Motorcycling
through
Castros Cuba
59
Top The trnsito escort on his Yamaha 250 Virago watches

while the group gasses up in Santiago de Cuba.
Above The group enters Santiago de Cuba, Cubas original
capital dating back to 1514.
all regulations related to travel and trade with Cuba.
Since the people-to-people (P2P) license prohibits recreation and tourism, our motorcycles were used for the purpose
of transportation between our requisite P2P exchanges.Those
slice-of-life engagements with Cubansfrom tobacco farmers
to Harlistas, owners of pre-revolutionary Harleysguaranteed
a richly rewarding immersion with Cubas profound history
and culture as we rode a 2,000-mile counter-clockwise circuit
from Havana to Baracoa, at the eastern tip of the island.
Because shipping a motorcycle across the Florida Straits is
virtually impossible, our bikesa combination of BMW F650s
and F800s, plus four Harley-Davidsonswere supplied by a
Danish company, Motorcycle Tours Cuba, that has been offering two-wheel tours for Europeans since 2009 (U.S. citizens
are barred from participating). The company also arranged a
support van to carry our gear. Cubas Havantur state tourism
agency supplied a driver and local guide.
The visitors first reaction is that of being caught in a 1950s
time warp. Cars from the Eisenhower era are everywhere:
Chrome-laden DeSotos. Corpulent Buicks. Stylish Plymouth
60
Furies. And other relics of Mafia-era ostentation

putter along beside modern Japanese taxis, sober
Russian-made Ladas, and dour 650cc Urals with sidecars. Then a Knucklehead from the 1940s thunders
past. Its hard to stay focused on the road as we test
our bikes along the Malecn Boulevard sinuously
fronting Havanas shoreline.
Prior to the Revolution, Harleys were standard issue
for Cubas police and the military. Then Cuba spun
off into Soviet orbit. No more Harleys were imported,
thanks to the U.S. embargo (Cubans call it el bloqueo,
the blockade) that still hangs like an axe over Cuba.
Thereafter, Soviet bloc Urals, MZs and Jawas flooded
Cuba over four decades. Keeping the Knuckleheads
going is a testament to Cuban resourcefulness, ingenuity, and indefatigable optimism in the face of shortages and other difficulties we can barely imagine.
El cubano inventa, says Lus Enrique Gonzles
Saenz, President of Cubas Harlista club, explaining
how Havanas proudly fanatical owners of antique
Harleys go to extreme (even absurd) lengths to keep
their hogs running.
We begin our tour at the workshop adjoining Luis
home in Havanas once tony Vedado neighborhood.
What we cant fix or cannibalize from other motos or
cars we make ourselves, explains Luis, my co-guide
throughout the tour. We tailor pistons and virtually any
other part you can think of right here. Hecho en Cuba,
chico!
The Doobie Brothers Taking it to the Streets surges
from the speakers of Luis blood-red Street Glide as we hit
the Autopista Nacional, Cubas only freeway, and crank
up to 120 kph, heading east. Luis rides lead. I ride sweep
at the rear. Betwixt, our 14 trip members are instructed
to ride at their own pace, although no diversions from
the fixed route are allowed. The concrete eight-laner
runs through open countryside flat as a carpenters level.
We have it virtually to ourselves save for the occasional
yanqui jalopy, Soviet tractors, and creaky wooden carts
pulled by oxen, dropping long stalks of cane as they go.
Im thrilled to be back in the saddle, retracing my journey through a country Ive grown to know well and love
dearly. Enraptured, I cook down the highway, the F800
purring sexily as it eats up the hardtop in a sensuous intertwining of glorious harmonics and warm, perfumed air.
After 142km we turn south for the Bay of Pigs and
arrive at the climactic spot where socialism and capitalism squared off in 1961. Cuban families and Canadian
package tourists slathered with suntan oil splash about in
the shallows. Its difficult with the sun beating down on a
beach as silvery as mountain snow to imagine that blood
and bullets had mingled with the sand and the surf here
five decades before.
Farther east we stop to get Sugar 101 from macheterossugarcane harvestersin coarse work clothes and
straw hats, slashing at the tall cane with short blunt-nosed
CONTENTS
Above A crowd gathered

wherever the group stopped,
as here in Sancti Spritus.
Right Members of the group
learn from Luis Enrique
Gonzles how Cubas Harlistas
keep their pre-revolutionary
Harleys running.
machetes. Hard, dirty work. We pass thatched

homesteadsbohiosand ox-drawn ploughs
tilling the palm-studded land. Then Trinidad
comes into view. Founded by conquistador Diego
Velzques in 1514, this cobbled colonial towna
UNESCO World Heritage Sitehas sidestepped
the currents of time. We slip uphill through mazelike cobbled streets that echo to the clip-clop
of hooves. Horse-whisperer Julio Muoz even
brings his horse inside his eighteenth-century
colonial home to demonstrate New Age equine
techniques with which he hopes to change
Cubas macho cowboy culture.
Our route is a magical mystery tour of such
fascinating people-to-people encounters: A visit
to a rural clinic to learn about Cubas community
health system an Afro-Cuban santera religious ceremony a family-run marble-sculpting cooperative. In Guantnamo, we even
pick up two trnsitosmotorcycle copsto
CONTENTS
escort us through the Cuban military zone (the taciturn Policia Nacional
Revolucionaria on their undersized Yamaha Viragos eventually thaw as
Luis and I coax them to spill the beans about trnsito training).
The enemy shall not pass our frontier! screams a billboard outside Guantnamo. Others reading Patriotism or Death! and The U.S.
blockade: The longest genocide in history! leave no doubt that were
in a Communist nation pitted against Uncle Sam. Images of Fidel are
everywhere, too, betraying a cult of personality second only to that of
revolutionary icon Che Guevara. I feel like were chasing Che down the
highway.
Yet everywhere we go, were feted. Wherever we stop, Cuban males
give us high fives. Phew!... hombre! they exclaim, marveling at the exotic Beemers. What marque is this? How big is the engine? And, inevitably,
How fast does it go? Youd have thought wed landed in flying saucers.
It seems a strange juxtaposition. Rousing anti-imperialist murals offset
Che Guevaras remains are interred

beneath a giant monument to the
revolutionary in Santa Clara.
61
by three generations of Cubansmost well-nourished, wellbetween two weeks of non-technical riding. I ride the trail
shod and clothed, and beaming benignlysending reasstanding up as I haul along in third gear. Im normally a
suring waves to us yanquis. It seems so innately Cuban: The
1200GSA rider. By comparison, the F800 seems so incredibly
considerate expression of a people uncommonly gracious
light and responsivea bike tailored for touring Cuba.
and generous to a fault.
Finally in Santa Clara, where Che Guevara looms large over
Arriving at Baracoa is its own adventure as we roar up La
the Plaza de la Revolucin, one of our tour group fires an
Farola, a steep mountain highway (completed since the Revimpressive burn-out then pops a wheelie in front of the revoolution) with nerve-wracking bends that switchback up and
lutionarys vast monument and mausoleum. Back in Havana
over the Sierra Cristal via the valley of the Ro Yumur. With
we clamber into 50s classic convertibles and journey metaits bridges cantilevered magically from the mountainside,
phorically back in time to the Tropicana, the world-famous
La Farola strikes me as a marvelous piece of engineering.
cabaret now in its eighth decade of Vegas-style stiletto-heeled
Beyond the summit the world falls away as the road spirals
paganism. As far as adventure motorcycling goes riding Cuba
down to Baracoa, hovering on the distant horizon beneath
was tame. But socialism and sensuality? Secret police and sexy
a brooding twilit fusion of valley and molten sky.
showgirls? Cuba is nothing if not surreal!
Time-worn Baracoa was founded in 1511 as Cubas first
Just 90 miles from the malls and McDonalds of Florida, wed
city. Cusped within a bay spread-eagled beneath a huge
journeyed to the soul of a haunting realm full of eccentricity,
flat-topped formation surrounded by rainforest, it resemeroticism, and enigma.
bles a mini Macondo, the surreal setting for Gabriel Garca
Mrquezs novel One Hundred Years of Solitude.
Christopher P. Baker is a professional travel
Cuba is the flattest isle of the Greater Antilles. Our route
journalist, lecturer, and tour leader. His more
is mostly level, melding occasionally into uplands with
than 25 books include MI MOTO FIDEL:
sweeping bends. Well-paved, too. West from Baracoa,
MOTORCYCLING THROUGH CASTROS CUBA
however, the shoreline highway whittles down to an
(National Geographic), winner of two national
unpaved scrambler traila real roller-coasterpitted with
book awards. He contributes to CNN and has
potholes brimming with a blood-red bouillabaisse accuwritten and photographed for publications as
mulated with recent rains. This 40-km-long enduro section
diverse as Elle, Motorcyclist, National Geographic
adds a welcome and adventurous challenge sandwiched
Traveler, and Newsweek.
The group poses in front of the Ministry of Interior

building, in Havanas Plaza de la Revolucin.
62
CONTENTS
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Guided Tours
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CONTENTS
63
INDUSTRY PROFILE
Adventures
Cure
for the
by Alisa Clickenger (MotoAdventureGal)
Im in.
No questions, no details, no bike, no dirt riding experience. I just knew I was in. This was in 2008, and I was
chatting with Sue Slate of the Womens Motorcyclist
Foundation (WMF). Sue was excited about a new fundraiser WMF was putting togethera group of women
riding dual-sport motorcycles and raising money for
breast and ovarian cancer cures with a ride through
the Rockies. Sues passion for motorcycling is contagious, and it was easy to get caught up in her inspired
purpose, even without the details. Gin Shear and Sue
Slate founded the WMF in 1983 as a means to encourage more women to ride motorcycles. Back then, they
just wanted more women riding companions. In the
1990s breast cancer awareness was low, as was the
number of women in biking. Their first motorcycle
events were organized with the purpose of building
a community of women riders.
64
In 1993 Gin and Sue started planning an Arctic motorcycle tour that would take them 175 miles north of the
Arctic Circle in Inuvik, NWT, Canada. Gin happened upon an
article about the number of women dying of breast cancer
each year. She recalls the sobering impact, We read a
horrible statistic shared by a local breast cancer survivor.
During the 10-year period of the Viet Nam war, we lost
55,000+ Americans to conflict and lost another 330,000
Americans to breast cancer. We started to imagine the
ripple effect of all the lives that were affected. That
thought was horrific. It dawned on us that four women
riding motorcycles well beyond the Arctic Circle would
create enough interest that we could raise some funds
towards research and finding cures.
The riders raised $25,000, and it was a turning point
for the organization. We saw what a positive impact
four riders could make, said Gin. Then we factored
in the possibilities if we got more riders involved
CONTENTS
Above Dempster Highway mud. Near Eagle

Plains, Yukon.
Right, top Dual-sport ride leader Shirley
Anderson crossing a creek on a trail off the
Denali Highway in Alaska on Adventure for
the Cures 2011.
Right, middle 2012 Adventure for the Cures dirt
bike camp riders. Hollister Hills State Vehicular
Recreation Area. Hollister, California.
Right Adventure for the Cures riders: Marna
Deitch (left) and Sue Slate (right) on ferry about
to cross the Yukon River.
CONTENTS
65
from around North America. From 19962007 Gin and Sue

organized a series of Pony Express Relay rides. The rides
were wildly successful, gathering large numbers of riders
and raising $2 million for Cures.
As always, every penny they collected went to fighting
breast cancer. Over the decades, they either self-funded
the trips or collected a handful of corporate sponsors to
keep them riding and raising funds. WMFs main financial
sponsor has been Progressive Insurance, and both Yamaha
and Kawasaki have kept WMF riders in bikes for many
events. The AMA has been a corporate sponsor since 1996,
as well as BMW Motorrad.
The dirt contagion started for Sue and Gin in 2006 when
they wanted to take a dirt bike class in California. The Honda
Now such challenges dont alw

ays force
me to turn around just to avo
id what is
often a very short distance of
diffi
terrain. For me, thats the value cult
of good
dirt/dual-sport training. It allo
ws me to
push the envelope while explor
ing new
conditions to employ the skills
I have and
know will work.Sue Slate
Training Center told them that if they gathered a group of

eight people they would get a discount. They gathered their
group, took the class, and were hooked. The idea of dual-sport
riding combined with rider training as a fund raising vehicle
was the next step in their evolution.
Since taking the dirt bike training, the mighty fundraising
duo had visions of a dual-sport fundraising ride. The Progressive Adventure for the Cure was launched in 2009. I was a part
of the 12 fundraiser-riders that year, and we called ourselves
The Dirty Dozen. While beefing up our off-road riding skills,
thanks to instruction from Bonnie Warch and Andrea Beach
of San Diegos Coach2Ride, we sped into the movement to
raise breast cancer awareness. Twelve of us, plus a score of
volunteers for support, raised over $47,000. And, like many
Formerly pavement only motorcyclists,

these Dirty Dozen Riders wrap up a
day of dirt bike training with a trail
ride in Keystone, Colorado.
CONTENTS
riders, none of us could have imagined where two wheels

would eventually take us.
We were all experienced street riders, and we welcomed
the opportunity to broaden our riding horizons and get
dirty. Many of us became so passionate about the new
possibilities for dual-sport riding that we went out and
bought ourselves new bikes. Several of us traveled near
and far, and a couple of women in the group even made
dual-sporting a lifestyle change. And, for a couple of us,
a lifestyle change would come through the object of our
fundraising efforts: Cancer.
The very next year after our Adventure for the Cure in
Colorado, two of the Dirty Dozen were diagnosed with
breast cancer. One was Gin Shear, co-founder of WMF.
Gins diagnosis brought those statistics right into the
heart of our tight-knit group. That one-in-eight-will-getbreast-cancer statistic wasnt such an abstract concept
anymore. Sue Slate said, The irony is that in 1993, when
we did our first breast cancer ride, The Arctic Tour 93
Ride for Research, we didnt personally know a single
person who had had breast cancer. But somehow the
statistics got through to us. Because they were well educated about detection, both riders beat their cancer, and
both women are still riding on the road and in the dirt.
Since the original Adventure for the Cure and the new
focus on rider training and smaller events, WMF has
organized other dual-sport rides every year since. In
2010 Sue raised $2,500 in Alaska on an industry ride with
MotoQuest. In 2011, nine women and three men rode in
their Alaskan and Yukon Adventure for the Cure and raised
$33,500 for breast cancer research. That has continued
with a separate skills training at the Hollister Hills State
Vehicle Recreational Area. Partnering with the Hollister
Hills Off Road Association, the events in 2012 and 2013
were co-ed trainings encouraging riding as a family sport.
Marna Deitch proudly shows off the dirt she sported from her ride
on the Dempster Highway, en route to the Arctic Circle.
CONTENTS
While encouraging families to ride together,

WMF sees women as the key to the health of
the sport. If more women ride, that means that
more families are sharing the sport together,
and more kids are growing up on bikes and
riding through adulthood. Motorcycling can
be a family sport it doesnt have to be just an
individual sport. You see that in dirt biking
especially. Dirt biking can be a good take-off
point for families who do street riding and want
to get their kids involved. They can get into dirt
biking, get their kids up to speed, and grow the
sport in all areas, says Gin.
Gin and Sue can be seen working tirelessly
throughout the motorcycle industry. You may
have had one of them lead you on a Kawasaki
demo ride, host you at a Riders of Kawasaki event,
or perhaps youve heard one of them speak at an
International Motorcycle Show. WMFs most recent
activity has been behind the scenes joining seven
motorcycle industry organizations to form the
Womens Coalition of Motorcyclists. The objective
of the new group is to create highly visible female
role models throughout the industry, as well as
providing scholarships for promising female motorsports competitors.
If thats not enough, the Womens Motorcyclist Foundation is also planning to ride the Continental Divide this year.
Theyll be laying out a route for a 2014 fundraiser, another
Adventure for the Cure. And, you guessed itI couldnt say no
this time, either. No questions, no details. I just know Im in.
BREAST CANCER FACTS

> 1 in 8 women will be diagnosed with
-breast
cancer in their lifetime.
> Breast cancer is the 2nd leading
-cause
of death among women.
> WMF has raised almost $2.5M for
-breast
cancer research and cures.
> Each year it is estimated that over
-220,000
women in the U.S. will be diag-
nosed with breast cancer and more than

40,000 will die from it.
To donate
AdventureForTheCures2013.
Kintera.org/DirtyGirls
WomensMotorcyclistFoundation.org
South America Explorer

62 days, Cartagena to Ushuaia
riding your own motorcycle
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69
TUNING UP
r
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F
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Mas
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by Bret Tkacs of Puget Sound Safety
by Cross Traini
ven when the riding is good, dont discount the

advantages of using non-traditional training techniques.
Most of us know that taking an MSF class, attending an
off-road school, or advanced training, like Lee Parks Total
Control Advanced Riding Clinic (TotalControlTraining.
net), is a good idea. However, using cross training can
sometimes reap huge benefits.
Cross training, or the use of non-motorcycling activities, can be used to develop and improve riding skills.
This involves learning things off the bike that could never
be learned on one. The cross training method is frequently a part of the program when I work with all levels
of riders, including those in law enforcement and U.S.
Special Forces motorcycle training for tactical environments. Lee Parks has the only other school I know of that
utilizes cross training drills together with on-bike skills
to improve riding ability.
To become really GREAT riders we must remain
diverse, not limiting ourselves to a single focus style. A
street rider can only learn so much on the street, a racer
on the track, and an off-road rider on the trails, etc. The
To become really
GREAT riders we
must remain diverse...
majority of the students who come through our school
are street riders, so I often find myself looking for
comparisons to help explain why, as street riders, they
should consider adding adventure or dual-sport bikes
to their stables, and then attend training such as our
multi-day adventure camp (AdvCamp.com).
The issue is getting riders to open up and look at
things from new perspectives. For example, one of
our greatest fears is falling down on sand, oil, painted
lines or some other type of slippery goo. What happens in an off-road environment is that our brains learn
how to identify slip more quickly, arming us with better
reactions when it happens on a paved surface. This,
coupled with an understanding of weight placement
for traction and other related dynamics, better prepares
70
ng
us for situations where slip is not expected or wanted.

If you are reading this article it is likely you already know that as
soon as you leave the pavement slipping and sliding is just part
of the fun, and doesnt need to be a fear-inducing experience.
Besides motorcycle training there are great benefits to be
had from cross training. Lets use football as a comparison; even
if youre not a football fan most people have heard of football
players taking ballet lessons to improve footwork. I have never
seen ballet on a football field but it obviously helps the game
or they wouldnt do it. Why would motorcycling be any different? When a street rider takes to the dirt they gain benefits like
increased confidence on loose surfaces, becoming more comfortable moving their body mass on a bike, improved balance,
mastery of the clutch, throttle, brakes, and better low speed
techniques. On the same note the adventure rider can gain similar benefits from attending track-based training.
Lets simplify our goals into two categories; mental and physical. I am going to leave the realm of traditional training and offer
some ideas for cross training. One example is snowboarding.
Snowboarding was not a natural activity for me at first and it often scares the @#$$%% out of me just looking down a hill. There
is something about strapping ones feet to a board and then
hurling down an ice-covered cliff that just doesnt seem natural!
Snowboarding relies on two skills that are also very critical to
riding a motorcycle, vision and keeping your body relaxed when
youre stressed. How vision is used in snowboarding is similar to
how you use it on the bike, by keeping your eyes on the horizon,
and always looking where you want to go look down and you
eat snow! The second skill is keeping your body relaxed; this is not
a physical skill as much as it is a mental one. If you can train your
brain to keep your body relaxed, even when you feel fear or are
stressed, you are way ahead of the curve.
It is difficult to train your mind and body what to do safely while
riding, yet in a situation like snowboarding, kickboxing, or skydiving, you can learn to control your fears without putting yourself
into high risk situations. The real jump occurs when you make the
cognitive connection between one activity and another. Once you
make the connection you can apply the skill of maintaining visual
control while remaining relaxed in fear-generating situations. The
key is to learn how to stay physically relaxed even though you are
stressed or scared.
We train to overcome survival instincts (that often get us into
trouble) like tensing up our bodies when we sense danger. It is up
to you to cognitively connect these activities to your skills as a motorcyclist. Your brain doesnt care if you are on a motorcycle or not,
but it is up to you make the connection between cross training and
riding, so you can carry the learning over to the bike.
CONTENTS
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- Lessons from the Road...

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Motocyclops.com/thereturn
hat made the

W
film excellent
was the personality of the narrator.
His lack of formality made us feel like we were taking
the trip with him, rather than just onlookers.
Robert Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance)
CONTENTS
71
BOOK REVIEW
Bearback The world overland
By Dr. Pat Garrod, TheWorldOverland.com

Matador (Troubador Publishing Ltd.)
ISBN: 978-1848765146, Paperback: $16.50
Review by Paul H. Smith
As an increasing number
of adventure riders take
their tales to the written
page, the pickins just
get better. Bearback,
by Dr. Pat Garrod, is no
exception.
One of the aspects of
the four-year journey
that makes Pats story a
little different than most
is that he, and his lovely
wife Ness, are doctors
even more specifically,
general practitioners. An
unusual scenario in that
this profession doesnt normally lend itself to the vagabond nature of motorcycling RTWers.
What else separates this book from the pack? Its a
500+ page read, a project that was clearly more than just
a whim. Bearback is a multilevel experience, with a lot to
offer across many different interests.
Obviously, the aspect of exploring the world via motorcycle is the principal theme, but it also orients the reader
to life on the road, the love affair between these two extraordinary people, and their ever-evolving philosophical
outlook of the world. Lets not toss that last point away,
because perhaps thats whats most compelling about
world travel the net result of constant interaction with
the people, REAL people, of other lands and cultures.
One might say that the goal of overlanding is to reshape life and rewire world consciousness by chipping
away at the misunderstandings and propaganda that
tends to separate us all... or, keeps us separated. And,
thats the odd thing about books of this nature, the specifics of where the author travels often seem unimportant
when compared to the insight gained.
Giving to beggars is not always the best redistribution of wealth. We have all heard the horror stories
of organized begging syndicates in places like India
where the desperate and poverty-stricken are deliberately mutilated to improve their earning capability.
At times, in certain countries, showing ones money
72
can lead to a near mobbing. At other times, one has

the feeling of opportunists simply taking advantage of your white skin and embarrassed naivete.
Not so in Cambodia. We felt moved as never before.
Talking to them, they were proud menit was just
that now they had no legs. We found ourselves
changing a number of dollars each day into wads
of small notes, Riels, for the express purpose of giving to beggars. In the markets we found ourselves
buying their postcards, or paintings, or whatever
they had made, just to give them something
pathetic perhaps, but if the individuals expressions
were anything to go by they didnt think so.
This is education the way I prefer it. Written by folks who
are out there with grit in their teeth, making it go right
daily. Firsthand observations on what life is REALLY like
out there. Theres so much to be gained, Im often surprised that anyone could read a book like this and not
have the immediate and uncontrollable urge to sell off
everything to get out there and do the same.
That said, Bearback is just a damned good story, and
very well told. This wonderful work fits the category of
page turner in every way.
Note: Many outlanders have resorted to self-publishing their
adventures. And the Brit firm, Matador, seems to be leading the
pack in our genre. Unlike the old days when a self-published book
was a virtual guarantee of unreadable junk, Matador seems to be
carving a niche in the opposite direction. Bearback is the second
publication of this publishing house that were reviewing with high
marks, along with high hopes to see more.
CONTENTS
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73
READER IN FOCUS
ANDREW PAIN
LENGTH RIDING About 20 years. No clue
how many miles, other than lots.
BIKES OWNED Started on an SR250, then got
an XS1100, then a second XS1100 (for two-up riding),

I briefly owned a BMW K100, forget the year, before
buying a 2007 Ural Patrol. Then I got another 1981
Yamaha SR250.
DREAM BIKE This is actually kinda of hard to explain

since I really like the bike I have now. In truth, I guess Ive
always wanted a Seca Turbo, Yamahas early 80s carbureted
turbo machine. It appeals to my sense of retro cool, though
its also probably completely impractical for actually
traveling places. So, yeah, I would totally travel on it if I
bought one.
WHY I RIDE I got the itch to ride after having to read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance in
high school. Being part of the scene I was moving through, and the mental time riding allowed, appealed
to me (but less so when its snowing). More recently, I just wanted to go places and see things, meet
people along the way, and experience the world I live on. Details beyond that arent as important.
GREAT RIDING PLACES It doesnt feel like Ive been anywhere yet, and
there is so much more to see and do. The world is amazing, even if it only barely
measures up to the people on it. Easier to think about places I dont want to go.
Actually, noit isnt.
SHOUT OUT Anyone who is actually going places theyve never been on
their motorcycle. Double shout outs for people who are leaving their comfort
zone while doing so.
WEBSITE Traveling250.com
WED LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU!

Please submit your Reader in Focus submissions to
Letters@AdventureMotorcycle.com
PARTING WORDS
Yay adventure! (Also, watch out for squirrels!)
74
CONTENTS
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KLX250 Project BIke / TOURANCE NEXT TIRES / GARMIN ZMO 350LM NAVI

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The Expedition series was built for the serious off-road

24 Project Bike: ADVMotizing the Kawasaki KLX250SF

30 Mototaxi Junket: The Adventurists are at it again!

36 A Century of Motorcycling Round the World

42 Tire Changing 101: The Art of the Matter (Part 1)

58 The First Yanqui Motorcycle Group in Cuba

Riding Iron Horse Country

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Dr. Pat Garrods Bearback

ON THE COVER: Gin crossing a

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For editorial queries, please email Info@AdventureMotorcycle.com.

THE MAIL BOX

Keith Ingram, Clovis, NM

Thanks for thinking of us Keith! Were honored to be

If we only had a nickel for every time we hear this

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Mark Luciani, Ontario, Canada

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DESIGNED IN BEND, OREGON. MADE IN U.S.A. RIDDEN WORLDWIDE.

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Buying a Stich gets easier

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FOR THE MASSES

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