Stitch and

classification

By Sunil Talekar, Student

handout-SOFT -Pune

Stitch and
classification
STITCH

Industrial sewing machines are classified according to their

intended use and the means of forming stitches.
A stitch can be defined as, one unit of conformation resulting from
one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping,
or passing through material also categorized as per stitch quality.

Stitch and
classification

Stitch quality is measured

STITCH quality
with;
STITCH SIZE
STITCH LENGTH
WIDTH
DEPTH
TENSIO
N
SEQUEN
CE
ELONGATION
ELASTICITY
RESILIE
NCE
FABRIC DISTORTION
YARN

Stitch and
classification
STITCH forming types

INTRA-LOOPING is passing of a
loop of thread through another loop
formed by the same thread.

INTERLOOPING is passing of a
loop of thread through another
loop formed by a different thread.

INTERLACING is passing of a
thread over or around another
thread or loop of another thread,.

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPES

The six classes of stitches as given are

Class 100 chain stitches
Class 200 stitches originating as hand
Stitches Class 300 lock stitches
Class 400 multi thread chain
Stitches Class 500 over edge
Stitches Class 600 covering chain stitches

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 100

FUTURES
The chain stitch class 100 is formed with one or more
needle threads that form a loop on the underside of the
fabric.
There is no lower thread.
It can be easily removed and it is used for basting
operations in tailored men swear and women's wear.
It can only be used where the marks of needle
penetration close up afterwards in pressing.
A basting operation, in positions such as edges, flaps,
collars, and so on, is a temporary stitch, allowing
accurate placement ofpermanent stitches.

Stitch and
classification

STITCH CLASS TYPE 100-properties

Followings are the properties of chain stitch.

In chain stitching; same thread is used to
interconnect each loop.
Stitch can be easily unpicked from the last to
the first.
Chain stitching is generally used for temporary
stitching.
The appearance of face and back are different
in apparel.
Chain stitching is done for pocket opening.

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 100

STITCH DIAGRAM

THREAD
COUNT

TYPICAL USES

101 CLASS

ONE
THREAD

BASTING,
OR LIGHT
CONSTRUC
TION

103 CLASS

ONE
THREAD

BLINDSTITC
H FOR
HEMMING

ONE
THREAD

BLINDSTITC
H FOR
HEMMING

STITCH CLASS

104 CLASS

Stitch and
classification

STITCH CLASS TYPE 200

FUTURES
Stitch class 200 consists of hand formation ofstitches
done by hand with the exception of 205,which
simulates a hand running stitch but is formed by a
special machine.
Typical types are basting stitches and back stitches.
Same stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece
of thread.
Thread is drawn in every stitch or every other stitch
and the length of stitching is limited.
Since friction is given at the same position of the
sewing thread many times, the thread is untwined
during sewing resulting in thread breakage unless the
thread is a high-durable one.
Even when the sewing is made, the stitch looks broken.

Stitch and
classification

STITCH CLASS TYPE 200-properties

Followings are the properties of hand stitch.

A slow process and need huge manpower to
finish bulk order. Used for handwork.

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 200

STITCH DIAGRAM

THREAD
COUNT

TYPICAL USES

202 Class

One Thread

Basting,
Tacking or
Repairs

205 Class

ONE
THREAD

Pick Stitch Topstitching

STITCH CLASS

Stitch and
classification

STITCH CLASS TYPE 300

FUTURES
The lock stitch class 300 is the most commonly used
and is easiest to understand.
Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch,
a needle thread that feeds from the top and a lower
thread that feeds from a bobbin.
A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop
as it passes around the bobbin and interlocks the two
threads.
If a lock stitch thread breaks, the two threads used to
form the stitch lock and the whole line of stitches won't
unravel.
Lock stitch machines are versatile and can be used for
a variety of operations.
It is also the only stitch formation that can be back

Stitch and
classification

Followings are the properties of hand stitch.

STITCH CLASS TYPE 300-properties
supplied from a bobbin on the other side.
low bulk and thin, good strength and abrasion
resistance
Poor elasticity, non ravel
limited sewing length, need to replace bobbin thread.
Cant use for seams requiring stretch.
Equal amount of needle and bobbin threads are used
and upperand lower threads interlocks in the center of
the fabric.
The 301 uses the least amount of thread and produces
the flattest stitch.
It is the tightest and most secured stitch among all
stitch types.
Because this stitch formation is the same on both sides
of the seams, it is reversible and used extensively for

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 300

STITCH DIAGRAM

STITCH CLASS

THREAD
COUNT

301 Class

Two Thread

304 Class

Two Thread

306 Class

Two Thread

315 Class

Two Thread

TYPICAL USES

Seaming
Multiple
Plies
Zig-Zag
Stitch; a
stretch
lockstitch
Blind Stitch
Three Step
Zig-Zag; a
stretch
lockstitch
with more

FUTURES

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 400

The 400 class is the second most frequently used stitch

type.
This multi thread chain stitch requires one or more
needle threads that form loops as they pass through
the fabric and interloop with the looper thread on the
underside, all of which feed continuously from the
cones.
The 400 class requires an upper and a lower thread and
use a looper to carry the lower thread and form a
thread loop on the underside of the fabric.
Machines producing 400 Class do not back tack
although stitches can be condensed to secure the ends
of the threads.

Stitch and
classification

STITCH CLASS TYPE 400-properties

Followings are the properties of class 400.

non ravel, strong, good elasticity, less likely to
cause seam pucker due to structural jamming.
good seam stretch
does not need to wind bobbin
lower resistance to runback and have
increased bulk under the seam

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 400

STITCH DIAGRAM

STITCH CLASS

401 Class

404 Class

406 Class

THREAD
COUNT

TYPICAL USES

Two Thread

Seaming
Multiple
Plies with
moderate
stretch

Two Thread

Topstitching
or Seaming
with stretch

Two Thread

Bottom
Cover
Stitch; a
(greater)

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 500

FUTURES

The stitch types in this class are formed with one or

more groups of threads, and have as a general
characteristic that loops from at least one group of
threads pass around the edge of the material.
The loops form a narrow band of stitching along the
edge of the fabric with threads intersecting at the
edge and preventing the fabric from fraying.
All have high elasticity, they do not unravel easily,
and a trimming knife on the machine ensures a
neat edge prior to sewing.
These stitches are often called overedge, overcast,
over lock, serge, or merrow.

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 500

FUTURES

Overedge machines must have three stitch

forming devices, a needle to carry the thread
through the fabric, a looper or spreader to carry
the thread from the needle to the edge of
material on the bottom, and a looper or
spreader to carry thread up and over the edge
of the material on the top.
The various stitch types uses various
combinations of these three devices

Stitch and
classification

STITCH CLASS TYPE 500-properties

Followings are the properties of class 400.

Excellent stretchable good recovery

Seam or edge neatening
suitable for many types of fabric
subject to fraying or slippage.

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 500

STITCH DIAGRAM

STITCH CLASS

THREAD
COUNT

501 Class

One Thread

502 Class

Two Thread

503 Class

Two Thread

TYPICAL USES

One Needle
Overedge
stitch for
Serging /
"Blanket
Stitch"
One Needle
Overedge
stitch for
Serging

Overedge
stitch for
Serging with
Crossover on
Edge of

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 500

STITCH DIAGRAM

STITCH CLASS

THREAD
COUNT

504 Class

Three
Thread

522 Class

Four Thread

514 Class

Four Thread

TYPICAL USES
One Needle
Overedge
stitch for
Serging and
Light Seaming
Stitch"
Mock Safety
Stitch for
Seaming with
wide bite and
Greater Stretch
for Knits
Overedge
Stitch for
Seaming with
wide bite and
Greater Stretch

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 500

STITCH DIAGRAM

STITCH CLASS

THREAD
COUNT

515 Class

Four Thread

516 Class

Five Thread

TYPICAL USES
True Safety
Stitch for
Seaming with
Good Stretch
for Wovens
and Knits
True Safety
Stitch for
Seaming with
Good Stretch
for Wovens
and Knits

FUTURES

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 600

The cover stitch or 600 class, often called a flat lock or a flat
seam stitch, is an advanced version of the 400 class and is
used primarily on knits and lingerie.
Machines producing the 600 class are extremely fast and
efficient, operating at 9000 rpms.
The stitch is formed by two or more needle loops passing
through the material, Interlooping on the underside and
interlocking on the upperside.
A spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover thread
across the surface of the fabric between the needles.
These stitches, referred to as top and bottom cover stitches,
are commonly used to cover both sides of the seam with
thread.
Threads must be chained off and be crossed by another seam.
This stitch class uses a lot of thread but provides excellent top
and bottom cover and flat seams.

Stitch and
classification

STITCH CLASS TYPE 600-properties

Followings are the properties of class 600.

High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam
stitch, Bulk, Fast machine speed
No need of Bobbin
Greater thread consumption
Covering stitches for decorative purpose, Can be
used to join two raw edges, suitable for knitted
garments.

Stitch and
classification
STITCH CLASS TYPE 600

STITCH DIAGRAM

STITCH CLASS

401 Class

404 Class

406 Class

THREAD
COUNT

TYPICAL USES

Four Thread

CoverStitch
or Seaming
Knits

Five Thread

CoverStitch
or ButtSeams

Six Thread

Wide
CoverStitch
or ButtSeams

Thanks!!!