Professional Documents
Culture Documents
How To Use The 1SR Roll Guide
How To Use The 1SR Roll Guide
Congratulations
on
your
foresight
in
purchasing
the
1SR
Roll-Guide.
You
have
indeed
done
your
research
on
scythes.
Seriously.
A
sharp
blade
is
the
key
to
success,
when
using
an
Austrian
or
Italian
scythe
blade,
and
your
commitment
to
learning
how
to
sharpen
your
scythe
blade
is
commendable.
There
will
be
no
One
Scythe
Revolution,
if
the
blades
are
not
sharp!
This
roll-guide
(Fhrungsrolle)
will
make
it
easier
for
you
to
learn
to
peen,
and
you
will
get
better
results,
and
it
can
even
help
you
achieve
very
advanced
levels,
in
time.
I
find
this
roll-guide
to
be
indispensible
for
my
own
peening.
I
can
now
peen
edges
that
are
almost
as
smooth
as
glass,
and
that
have
amazing
sharpness.
And
it
saves
on
hand-strain,
which
makes
peening
a
lot
more
fun!
A
bit
of
background
info:
In
many
parts
of
continental
Europe,
scythe
blades
were
traditionally
peened
by
placing
the
edge
of
the
blade
on
a
wide
(flat)
anvil,
and
then
peening
the
edge
thin
with
a
crosspeen
hammer.
When
peening
on
a
wide
anvil,
your
success
depends
on
your
accuracy
with
the
cross-peen
end
of
the
hammer.
To
do
this
well
requires
tremendous
skill!
Otherwise,
you
end
up
with
either
a
wavy,
or
a
rough,
serrated-
like
edge.
Other
parts
of
Europe
found
it
easier
to
peen
a
scythe
blade
placed
upside
down
on
a
narrow
(bar
peen)
anvil,
and
then
struck
it
on
the
back
of
the
cutting
edge
with
a
wide-faced
hammer.
When
peening
on
a
narrow
anvil,
the
accuracy
of
your
peening
depends
on
how
precisely
you
can
hold
the
cutting
edge
in
the
correct
position
on
the
anvil
face.
This
can
be
strenuous
on
the
fingers,
and
on
the
wrist,
as
you
try
to
hold
the
blade
very
still
for
each
hammer
strike.
Both
tall
anvils
and
short
anvils
have
their
pros
and
cons.
While
I
am
pursuing
the
development
of
a
tall
anvil
for
1SR,
the
new
Picard
anvils
are
an
excellent
short
anvil
and
I
plan
on
continuing
to
carry
them.
To
improve
them,
I
had
the
profile
of
the
Picard
anvil
faces
changed
to
be
more
straight,
like
the
SFX
anvils,
but
with
the
normal
(medium)
radius
that
I
prefer.
And
I
had
the
idea
of
designing
a
roll-guide
for
it,
based
on
the
one
I
had
experienced
at
the
2006
Scythe
Symposium
made
by
Niels
Johansson
of
Denmark.
I
wrote
about
it
in
my
blog.
(See
http://onescytherevolution.com/1/post/2014/02/the-evolvement-of-the-1sr-
peening-guide.html
)
I
found
a
local
shop
to
machine
them
for
me.
The
result
is
very
simple,
but
very
successful.
The
Picard
anvil
is
short
enough
so
that
you
can
rest
your
hand
on
the
anvil
block.
The
new
and
improved
profile
is
superb
for
the
peening
method
that
I
use.
And
the
new
roll-guide
works
fabulously,
and
is
quick
and
easy
to
adjust.
I
have
never
enjoyed
peening
as
much
as
I
do
now!
I
cant
wait
to
see
how
much
sharper
I
can
get
the
blade
each
time
that
I
peen.
I
hope
you
will
enjoy
it
as
much
as
I
do.
Instructions:
1.
The
Peening
Stump
Prepare
a
stump
as
described
in
my
manual,
How
to
Peen
an
Austrian
Scythe
Blade
on
a
Narrow
Anvil.,
included
with
your
peening
kit.
To
have
enough
room
for
the
1SR
Roll
Guide,
I
suggest
using
a
square
cut
timber
of
at
least
6x6,
or
a
log
section
8-12
in
diameter.
To
determine
the
height
that
you
need
for
your
peening
stump,
put
on
the
shoes
that
you
would
be
wearing
while
peening,
and
sit
down
on
a
chair
or
stump
that
is
at
a
comfortable
height,
and
measure
from
the
ground
up
to
the
top
of
your
thigh.
This
is
the
height
that
you
will
be
supporting
one
end
of
a
long
scythe
blade,
with
your
thigh,
while
you
peen
the
other
end
of
the
blade.
When
you
have
this
measurement,
subtract
2
inches
for
the
height
of
the
Picard
anvil,
and
cut
the
stump
to
length,
or
just
select
a
stump
that
comes
close
enough
in
the
first
place.
Depending
on
how
smooth
the
surface
of
your
stump
is,
it
might
be
beneficial
to
sand
the
top
surface
reasonably
smooth,
at
this
point,
so
that
the
aluminum
bar
of
the
roll-guide
can
more
easily
slide,
when
tapped
one
way
or
the
other,
with
the
hammer.
This
may
be
more
of
an
issue
in
humid
weather.
2.
Setting
the
Anvil
into
the
Stump
Next
figure
out
where
you
want
to
set
the
anvil.
See
Figure
1
for
possible
scenarios.
I
like
it
in
the
middle,
and
2/3rds
toward
me.
To
mount
your
Picard
anvil,
drill
a
hole
inch
in
diameter
and
1
deep.
Next
use
a
diameter
drill
bit,
and
drill
down
through
the
center
of
the
hole
that
you
have
made
so
far,
to
a
total
depth
of
2
inches.
This
hole
will
nicely
accommodate
the
2
7/8
long,
tapered
spike
of
the
Picard
anvil.
Insert
the
anvil
into
the
hole,
then
square
it
up,
and
then
pound
it
into
place
with
a
piece
of
firewood
(never
use
a
hammer
for
this!).
You
will
want
the
anvil
deep
enough
for
the
roller
of
the
roll-guide
to
extend
up
higher
than
the
top
of
the
anvil
face,
so
that
the
edge
of
the
blade
can
press
against
the
roller,
when
resting
on
top
of
the
anvil
face.
Once
the
anvil
is
in,
put
your
scythe
blade
upside
down
on
it,
and
align
the
edge
at
the
beard
on
the
anvil
face.
If
the
tang
of
the
blade
interferes
with
your
ability
to
get
the
edge
at
the
beard
to
lay
properly
on
the
anvil
face,
you
will
have
to
notch
out
your
stump,
to
make
room
for
the
tang.
(See
1SR
Peening
Manual).
My
new
Falci
blades
have
very
high
necks,
and
the
tang
is
much
closer
to
the
beard,
than
on
my
FUX
blades.
So
you
will
need
to
notch
out
your
stump
more
for
them,
than
for
the
FUX
blades.
(Thats
one
advantage
to
tall
anvils.
There
is
no
need
to
notch
out
your
stump.)
Figure
1
To
mount
the
1SR
Roll
Guide
on
your
anvil
stump,
remove
the
screw
and
anchor
bolt,
and
place
the
guide
plate
alongside
the
Picard
anvil,
on
either
the
left
or
right
side
(on
right
is
best
for
Falci
blades),
so
that
the
far
side
of
the
roller,
is
lined
up
with
the
center
of
the
anvil
face,
as
shown
in
the
blueprint
in
Figure
1.
Mark
the
spot
with
a
pencil,
where
you
need
to
drill
a
hole
on
your
stump.
It
should
be
in
the
center
of
the
slot,
at
the
halfway
point
of
the
adjustment
range.
Drill
a
3/4
inch
deep
hole
with
a
5/16
inch
drill
bit,
then
screw
the
anchor
bolt
into
place
with
the
scythe
key
that
came
with
your
1SR
wooden
snath,
or
a
6mm
metric
allen
wrench.
Crank
the
anchor
bolt
down
into
place,
as
in
Figure
2.
Figure
2
Next
place
the
washer
on
the
bolt,
and
then
place
the
bolt
through
the
slot
of
the
guide
plate,
and
thread
into
the
anchor
bolt.
Use
a
Phillips
screwdriver
to
screw
down
the
bolt,
until
it
lightly
holds
the
guide
in
place.
Figure
3.
Next
place
the
edge
of
the
blade,
at
the
exact
middle
of
the
top
of
the
rounded
anvil
face,
and
then
adjust
the
peening
guide,
so
that
the
roller
presses
against
the
edge.
Then
tighten
the
screw
firmly
enough
to
hold
the
blade
firmly
in
position,
but
loose
enough
so
that
you
can
move
the
guide
when
you
tap
on
it
with
a
hammer.
Figure
3
Peening:
To hold the blade comfortably while keeping the edge exactly in place, I like to hold the
blade with my thumb on top, my index finger tip on the back of the rib (see Figure 3), and
I place my middle, ring, and little finger, curled underneath the blade, and holding the
blade while pressed against the anvil (See Figure 4).
Figure
4
Figure
5
The edge is guided by both the roll-guide, plus the three fingers underneath. The
three fingers form a stop, that helps keep the edge from going too far over the top
of the radius of the anvil, as your are peening (See Figure 5). The roll-guide does
as well, so the blade is easily kept in position with precision.
Figure
6
Figure
6.
Commence
peening
with
the
Diagonal
Drawing
Hammer
Strike.
Work
your
way
from
tip
to
beard
(toe
to
heel).
For
the
first
inch
or
so,
the
tip
will
not
be
in
contact
with
the
roller,
so
you
are
on
your
own.
Once
youve
peened
enough
of
the
blade,
for
it
to
engage
the
roller,
adjust
the
roller
to
meet
the
edge.
Whenever
the
curve
of
the
blade,
requires
you
to
change
position
of
the
roller,
tap
the
ends
of
the
aluminum
bar
to
adjust
it.
Figure
7
Figure 7. To adjust guide back, away from you, lay your hammer head down flat, and tap
the aluminum bar forward.
Figure
8
Figure 8. To adjust guide forward (towards you), reach over and tap the aluminum bar of
the guide with the cross peen end of the hammer.
See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLcg8wXxLfE
just striking the anvil, and when you are solidly striking the exact cutting edge, practice
getting into the hammer rhythm, and then pull the edge back enough so that you are
certain that you are not hitting the edge at all, and then slowly bring it forward, until you
feel the hammer solidly connecting with just the edge again. The noise of this hammer
strike really rings in the ear. The German's have a good way of describing it. Es knallt
Mir in the Ohren! They would say. There is no good translation. It means something like
the sharp report of a gun. Lets just say, wear hearing protection! With this placement on
the radius, and the power of this hammer strike, you can really sharpen the edge to a
fine point, instead of just thinning it.
This requirement for the precise positioning of the edge, is where the 1SR Roll-Guide
becomes so incredibly useful. As you go around the curve of the blade, you will need to
make a lot of minute fine-tuned adjustments to the guide. But this is easy to do with just
a quick tap of the hammer.
See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05wsfFCoLRQ
After the Sharpening Hammer Strike, I used to try to toughen up the edge with the
Packing or Klopfender Hammer Strike. Once you've experienced the Sharpening
Hammer Strike, you will really feel the difference of the Packing Hammer Strike.
Klopfender means knocking, in German. I have since found out that the old
blacksmiths lore of packing the metal, to make it denser, sharper, and more durable, is a
myth that has been busted, and is probably not worth the effort. All the hammer strikes
supposedly can only thin and work harden the metal. The molecules cannot be packed
closer together. One day, however, I pushed the Sharpening Strike to the limit, and
ended up with an edge so thin that it would stay bent up, after the thumbnail test. I
instinctively started to try to stiffen the edge, with a gentler, but solid, Packing hammer
strike. Ahhh, I thought to myself. Der Klopfender Dengelschlag! Maybe it is useful after
all. Anyway, I managed to salvage the edge, and it seemed tougher after the packing
hammer strike. I mowed with it with no problems. While the packing hammer strike may
not be making the metal denser, I do think it can help smooth out your work, which would
make the edge sharper, also. In any case, do not peen the edge so thin that it bends like
foil, or worse, breaks off. When 0.5-1mm of the edge, runs over a sliding thumbnail, like
a stadium crowd doing the wave, it is plenty thin enough. Next, hone it with a finer
whetstone like the La Saurat, Dopplebock (aka Milano), or Rozsutec whetstones. (see
video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rhSgD5UFQw )
FAQ:
How many passes should I do?
You get a better overlap of all your individual hammer marks, if you do at least two
passes with each type of the hammering techniques. I would say that generally, if you
start out with a new FUX or Falci blade, and mow with it until it needs peening, two
passes with each of the Drawing and Sharpening hammering techniques, it will result in
an excellent edge, and you will be able to hone with the finer gritted whetstones. If your
edge is really dull and youve been needing to hone very hard with a medium gritted
stone, in order to cut anything, you will need to make more passes with the drawing
hammer strike, or start several rows in, and peen successive lines to recreate the
primary bevel.
I hope you enjoy learning how to peen a scythe blade!
S t e p - b y - S t e p
R e v i e w
1. Clean blade and anvil Remove blade from snath. If it is dirty with
2.
3.
4.
5.
plant
sap
and
dirt,
wash
it
carefully
with
dish
soap
and
a
scrubbing
pad.
Dry
carefully,
and
thoroughly.
A
clean
blade
will
slide
smoothly
over
the
anvil
surface,
which
will
make
it
easier
to
advance
the
blade
smoothly,
and
peen
evenly.
Keep
the
anvil
surface
clean
as
well.
You
can
clean
it
with
the
Sandflex
block
followed
by
a
rag,
or
just
use
a
dry
scrubbing
pad.
Create
a
matte
finish
Create
a
matte
finish
along
the
edge,
by
rubbing
it
with
the
rust-eraser
Sandflex
block,
before
each
new
pass,
so
that
your
individual
hammer
marks
will
show
up
as
shiny
marks.
That
way
you
can
see
what
work
you
have
done,
and
make
adjustments
to
your
technique.
Diagonal
Drawing
Hammer
Strike
Do
2-3
passes
from
tip
to
beard,
if
you
are
right
handed
(beard
to
tip
if
you
are
left-handed).
Place
the
edge,
a
hair
past
(towards
you)
the
very
center
of
the
top
of
the
radius.
Hold
your
arm
so
that
the
upper
and
lower
arm,
together
form
an
80
degree
angle.
Isolate
the
motion
to
the
shoulder
joint.
Hold
hammer
handle
more
in
the
middle.
The
hammer
strikes
draw
and
taper
the
metal
out
towards
you.
Each
hammer
strike
overlaps
the
previous
one.
Work
your
way
down
the
entire
length
of
the
blade.
The
hammer
marks
should
join
together
in
a
continuous,
uniform
line.
Each
successive
pass
will
taper
the
edge
out
further.
Sharpening
Hammer
Strike
This
rebounding
hammer
strike
technique
gives
the
edge
drawn
out
by
the
Drawing
Hammer
Strike,
the
extra
sharpness
to
cut
grass
with
amazing
ease.
Do
1-2
finishing
passes,
until
the
edge
is
thin
enough
to
run
on
the
nail.
Place
edge
at
center
of
the
radius.
Isolate
motion
to
elbow
joint.
Hammer
strikes
are
straight
down.
Hold
the
hammer
more
by
the
end,
and
lighten
up
your
hammer
strikes,
and
speed
up
your
tempo.
Try
for
an
optimum
amount
of
rebound.
Get
in
rhythm
with
the
rebound,
and
let
the
hammer
do
more
of
the
work.
This
powerful
hammer
strike
will
quickly
thin
out
and
sharpen
the
cutting
edge.
Be
careful
not
to
overdo
it,
or
your
edge
will
be
so
work
hardened
it
will
flake
off!
After
each
pass,
check
to
see
how
thin
the
edge
has
become,
by
applying
firm
(but
not
painful)
pressure
with
your
thumbnail,
and
rocking
it
back
and
forth.
If
the
first
mm
of
the
edge,
rolls
with
your
thumbnail
pressure,
it
is
sharp
enough.
Honing
Finish
the
edge
by
honing
it.
Hold
the
blade
by
the
tang,
and
place
the
tip
in
a
stump.
Brace
the
hand
holding
the
tang,
against
your
body,
with
the
cutting
edge
facing
away
from
you.
Hone
from
beard
to
tip,
with
a
wet
whetstone.
If
you
are
a
beginner,
start
with
a
softer
medium-fine
stone,
followed
by
a
hard
and
fine
stone.
Use
the
shape
of
the
stone
to
engage
the
edge,
and
feel
for
the
correct
angle
that
you
need
to
hone
the
edge.
Too
steep
Botan
Anderson
www.OneScytheRevolution.com
Copyright
2015