Linear wave theory Example 1

For d=20 m, g=9.8, T=5 s, 10 s and 20

s,
Calculate the wavelength and wave
phase speed (celerity)

[Wavelength L=38.88, 121.2, 270.7(m)]

[Wave phase speed C=7.78, 12.12,
13.54(m/s)]

Linear wave theory Example 2

A Wave in a water depth of 10m has a period of
10 s and a height of 1.975 m.
(a)Determine the wave celerity at that water
depth (c=9.24 m/s)
(b)Calculate water particle velocity and
pressure due to wave action at a point 1 m
below the still water level under the wave crest
(take =1030kg/m3). (u=1.0 m/s, p/g =1.95m)
(c)Calculate the water particle acceleration due
to wave action at this location under wave
crest. (a=-0.346 m/s2)
(d)Calculate the wave energy and wave power.
(E=4.9 kJ/m2, P=39.8kW/m2)