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Guia de Londres
Guia de Londres
Guia de Londres
91
LONDON
London
Everyone comes to London with a preconception of the metropolis shaped by a multitude
of books, movies, TV shows and songs. Whatever yours is, prepare to have it shattered by
this endlessly fascinating, amorphous city.
Dont believe anyone who claims to know London you could spend a lifetime exploring
it and find that the slippery things gone and changed on you. One thing is constant: that
great serpent of a river enfolding the city in its sinuous loops, linking London both to the
green heart of England and the world. The Empire may be long gone but the engines of
global capital continue to be stoked by the side of the Thames. This only adds to Londons
vibrant, finger-on-the-pulse persona. Its also what makes it the third-most expensive city
in the world.
Those who call London grey are only telling part of the story. Its also surprisingly green
and even a little wild. Deer still wander some of its parks, foxes roam the streets at night
and the tenacity of the foliage leaves you in little doubt that a few years without human
intervention would transform the whole place into Sleeping Beautys castle.
But Londons in no danger of slumbering anytime soon. From Roman times the world
has come to London, put down roots and whinged about the weather. There is no place on
earth that is more multicultural; any given street yields a rich harvest of languages. Those
narrow streets are also steeped in history, art, architecture and popular culture. With endless
reserves of cool, London is one of the worlds great cities, if not the greatest.
HIGHLIGHTS
Watching the world pass by on a sunny day
Regent's
Park
British
Museum
St Paul's
Cathedral
Tower of
London
London (p122)
Meeting the dead famous in Westminster
Abbey (p115)
Discovering the next cool thing in skinny
Westminister
Abbey
LONDON
92
LONDON History
HISTORY
London first came into being as a Celtic village near a ford across the River Thames, but
it wasnt until after the Roman invasion, in
the year 43, that the city really began to take
off. The Romans enclosed their Londinium in
walls that are still echoed in the shape of the
City of London (the big C City) today.
By the end of the 3rd century AD, Londinium was almost as multicultural as it is
now, with 30,000 people of various ethnic
groups and temples dedicated to a large
number of cults. Internal strife and relentless barbarian attacks took their toll on
the Romans who abandoned Britain in the
5th century, reducing the conurbation to a
sparsely populated backwater.
The Saxons then moved in to the area,
establishing farmsteads and villages. Their
Lundenwic prospered, becoming a large,
well-organised town divided into 20 different wards. As the city grew in importance,
it caught the eye of Danish Vikings who
launched many invasions and razed the city
in the 9th century. The Saxons held on until,
finally beaten down in 1016, they were forced
to accept the Danish leader Knut (Canute) as
King of England, after which London replaced
Winchester as its capital. In 1042 the throne
reverted to the Saxon Edward the Confessor,
whose main contribution to the city was the
building of Westminster Abbey.
A dispute over his successor led to whats
known as the Norman Conquest (Normans
broadly being Vikings with shorter beards).
When William the Conqueror won the watershed Battle of Hastings in 1066, he and his
forces marched into London where he was
crowned king. He built the White Tower (the
core of the Tower of London), negotiated taxes
with the merchants, and affirmed the citys
independence and right to self-government.
The throne has passed through various
houses since (the House of Windsor has
warmed its cushion since 1910), with royal
power concentrated in London from the 12th
century. From then to the late 15th century,
London politics were largely taken up by a
three-way power struggle between the monarchy, the church and city guilds.
The greatest threat to the burgeoning city
was that of disease caused by unsanitary living conditions and impure drinking water.
In 1348 rats on ships from Europe brought
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93
ORIENTATION
The M25 ring road encompasses the 609
sq miles that is broadly regarded as Greater
London. The citys main geographical feature is the murky Thames, which snakes
around but roughly divides the city into north
and south.
The old City of London (note the big
C) is the capitals financial district, covering roughly a square mile bordered by the
river and the many gates of the ancient
(long-gone) city walls: Newgate, Moorgate
etc. The areas to the east of the City are collectively known as the East End. The West
End, on the Citys other flank, is effectively
the centre of London nowadays. It actually
falls within the City of Westminster, which
is one of Londons 32 boroughs and has long
been the centre of government and royalty.
Surrounding these central areas are dozens of former villages (Camden, Islington,
Clapham etc), each with their own High
Street, which were long ago swallowed by
Londons sprawl.
Londoners commonly refer to areas
by their postcode. The letters correspond
to compass directions from the centre of
LONDON
LONDON Orientation
LONDON
94
LONDON Information
Maps
No Londoner would be without a pocketsized London A-Z, which lists nearly 30,000
streets and still doesnt cover London in
its entirety. Lonely Planet also publishes a
London City Map.
INFORMATION
Bookshops
Emergency
Police/Fire/Ambulance (%999)
Rape & Sexual Abuse Support Centre (%8683 3300)
Samaritans (%0845 790 9090)
Internet Access
Youll find free wireless access at many bars,
cafes and hotels, and large tracts of London,
notably Canary Wharf and the City, are covered by pay-as-you-go wireless services that
you can sign up to in situ (about 10/5 per
lonelyplanet.com
day/hour). Youll usually pay less at an internet cafe (about 1 to 2 per hour). Although
its unlikely youll be caught, piggybacking off
someones unsecured connection is illegal and
people have been prosecuted for it. Reliable
internet cafes include:
BTR (Map pp104-5; %7209 0984; 39 Whitfield St W1;
tGoodge St)
Internet Resources
The Lonely Planet website (lonelyplanet.com)
has lots of London information. You can also
try the following:
BBC London (www.bbc.co.uk/london)
Evening Standard (www.thisislondon.co.uk)
Londonist (www.londonist.com)
Time Out (www.timeout.com/london)
Urban Path (www.urbanpath.com)
View London (www.viewlondon.co.uk)
Walk It (www.walkit.com) Enter your destination and get
a walking map, time estimate and information on calories
burnt and carbon-dioxide saved.
Media
Its hard to avoid Londons free press, with
vendors pushing freebies in your face outside every central tube stop on weekdays.
The best is the reasonably weighty morning Metro, while come midafternoon the
trashier London Lite and London Paper
are available.
All the national dailies have plenty of
London coverage, but the citys only real
paper is the tabloid Evening Standard,
which comes out in early and late editions.
Published every Tuesday, Time Out (2.95)
is the local listing guide par excellence.
Medical Services
To find a local doctor or hospital, consult
the local telephone directory or call %100
(toll free). There is always one local chemist
that opens 24 hours (see local newspapers or
notices in chemist windows).
Hospitals with 24-hour accident and emergency units include:
Royal Free Hospital (Map pp96-7; %7794 0500; Pond
St NW3; tBelsize Park)
lonelyplanet.com
LONDON Information
95
Money
Toilets
If youre caught short around London, public toilets can be hard to find. Only a handful of tube stations have them but the bigger
National Rail stations usually do (although
theyre often coin operated). If you can face
five floors on an escalator, department stores
are a good bet. In a busy pub, no-ones going
to notice you sneaking in to use the loo, but
if youre spotted it would be polite to order a
drink afterwards.
Tourist Information
Post
Most High Streets have a post office, where
youll get to join in the national pastime:
queuing. The Trafalgar Square post office (Map
pp108-9; 24 William IV St WC2; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri,
9am-5.30pm Sat; tCharing Cross) has the main poste
restante service for London. London post offices usually open from around 9am to 5pm,
Monday to Friday. Some also open 9am to
noon on Saturdays.
Telephone
The only businesses to rival food outlets for
sheer number of shopfronts on Londons
High Streets are mobile-phone stores. Its a
good idea to pick up a local SIM card if youre
staying for any length of time; not only will
you avoid international roaming charges on
your home mobile account, some also offer
cheap international call-rates (for example,
6p per minute to Australia). Then theres the
added advantage of being able to dish out
a local number to hotties you meet at bars!
Carphone Warehouse (%0870 087 0870; www.carphone
-warehouse.com) has branches all over the city and
a bewildering array of prepay plans available.
SIMs are often free.
Many internet cafes have booths where
you can dial internationally for less than the
standard British Telecom (BT) rate. Another
handy alternative is to buy a calling card from
www.visitbritain.com; 1 Regent St SW1; h9.30am6.30pm Mon, 9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun;
tPiccadilly Circus) Books accommodation, theatre and
transport tickets, and offers a bureau de change, international telephones and terminals for accessing tourist
information on the web. Its open longer hours in summer.
City of London Information Centre (Map p112;
%7332 1456; www.cityoflondon.gov.uk; h9.30am5.30pm Mon-Sat; St Pauls Churchyard EC4; tSt Pauls)
Tourist information, fast-track tickets to attractions and
guided walks (6, daily in summer). Open Sundays during
summer.
Travel Agencies
STA Travel (%0871-230 0040; www.statravel.co.uk)
Earls Court (Map pp102-3; %7341 3693; 2 Hogarth Rd
SW5; tEarls Court); Soho (Map pp108-9; %7432
7474; 85 Shaftesbury Ave W1; tLeicester Sq); Tottenham
Court Rd (Map pp104-5; %0871-468 0623; 11 Goodge St
W1; tGoodge St); Victoria (Map pp102-3; %0871-468
0649; 52 Grosvenor Gardens SW1; tVictoria) Longstanding and reliable with several branches in London.
Trailfinders (www.trailfinders.com) One Stop Travel Shop
(Map pp100-1; worldwide travel %7938 3939, visa &
passport service 0845 050 5905, immunisation centre 7938
3999; 194 Kensington High St W8;tHigh St Kensington); Canary Wharf (Map p111; 30A The South Colonnade;
tCanary Wharf ); City (Map p112; 1 Threadneedle St EC2;
tBank); European Travel (Map pp100-1; 215 Kensington
High St W8; tHigh St Kensington) Also has branches
in Waterstones, Piccadilly (opposite), Harrods (p166) and
Selfridges (p166).
(Continued on page 114)
LONDON
L O N D O N G re a t e r L o n d o n
lonelyplanet.com
GREATER LONDON
5
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Hampstead Rd
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Rd
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Alba
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W
Rd
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Camden Town
Rd South Hampstead
Primrose
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Be A
R
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Rd
High Rd
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See Camden & Islington Map (pp98-9)
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To Highgate
Cemetery (500m);
The Flask (500m)
Gospel
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Kentish 18
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Pa
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Hampstead Heath
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Rd
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sde
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Sh
West
West Hampstead
Tufnell
Park
Gospel
Oak
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Inn (1mi)
al
King's
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St Pancras
International
(Eurostar)
King's Cross
St Pancras
Euston
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St
Pancras
Warren St
n
Rege
ar
w
dg
Warwick
Baker
Avenue
Edgware Rd
St
Goodge St
We
Fitzrovia
stw a
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Marylebone
Westbourne
E
See West End Map (pp108-9)
Park
Paddington
Royal Oak
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Ladbroke Grove
Tottenham
Wigm St
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Court Rd
Paddington ex
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Soho
Bond
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cad
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Shepherd's
Park
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Holland
Westminster
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Rd
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Rise
Hill
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Lave
Cedar
e
Th
To Richmond Park
Putney
(1mi); Kew Gardens
(3mi); Twickenham (4mi);
East Putney
Hampton Court
Palace (6mi)
d
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Clapham
Junction
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lac
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Battersea
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R
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LONDON
96
Clapham
Clapham
Common
Av
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Clapham
High St
Clapham
North
Clapham
Common
15
lonelyplanet.com
L O N D O N G re a t e r L o n d o n
Kingsland High St
Par
k
St
to
ri
East R
d
s ga
te
Moor
gate
op
sh
Bi
Rolls
Rd
Ke
nn
ing
ton
ot
y
an
Alb
Surrey Quays
(Closed
until 2010)
Rd
rk
Rd
Oval
Stockwell
Brixton Rd
Cla
ph
am
Rd
Ca
mb
e
rw
ell
Camberwell
Ne
w
Queens Rd
(Peckham)
Rd
Rd
Peckham
Brixton
Denmark
Hill
Loughborough
Junction
H i ll
17
East
Dulwich
Hi
Rd
Effra
ll
De
nm
22
19
He
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Brixton
A cr
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To Horniman
Museum (1.5mi)
Rotherhithe
Rd
leys
nd
Tru
Rd
Ne
ld
Kennington
Rd
Rd
INFORMATIONPeckham
Royal Free Hospital..................
1 C1
Peckham Rye
East India
Dock Rd
West India
Quay DLR
Canary
Wharf DLR
Canary Wharf
Heron
Quay's
DLR
South
Quay DLR
See Docklands & Greenwich Map (p111)
o th
g e Rd
id
Southwa
rk
Bermondsey
en
Salter Rd
Canada Water
Rd
Poplar
Westferry
DLR
Rotherhithe
(Closed until 2010)
d
ca R
i
a
m
Ja
11
12
Elephant
& Castle
Pa
Rd
Limehouse
Limehouse DLR
Cable St
y
The Hw
Wapping
(Closed until
2010)
Wapping
21
Gra
nge
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rd
Bu
Commercial Rd
Shadwell
DLR
Lambeth
d
l R
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ech
hit
W
Rd
Rd
we
Lo
Lambeth
North
En d
Mile
London
Bridge
Br
Borough
Rd
Waterloo
East
South
Bank
Waterloo
St
ord
Southwark
mf
Southwark
Bow
Mile End
Stepney Green
Fenchurch St
Tower
Gateway
Tower DLR
Hill
Monument
es
Tham
Sta
Aldgate
East
Aldgate
Bank
Cannon St
Temple
al
St
City
Blackfriars
er c i a l
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St Paul's
Mansion
House
n
ma
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Holborn
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Fleet St
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hn
en Rd
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Barbican
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Ol d
4
Rd
Hackney
13
Old St
St
Old
23
Cambridge
Heath
Gv
Rd
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unnel
Kingsland Rd
Rd
St
Ma
Rd
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Lever
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Park
re
Rd
w
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Rd
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Fa
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Rd
Rd
Richmond
London
Fields
Queensbridge Rd
Upper
Liverpool
Essex
Rd
ex
ss
Angel
ille Rd
Pentonv
Hackney Downs
Hackney Central
Graham Rd
Hackney
Rd
La
Highbury
& Islington
Caledonian Rd
& Barnsbury
King's
Cross
d
Homerton R
Canonbury
Dalston Kingsland
St Paul's Rd Ball's Pond
Rd
Caledonian Rd
ian
Caledon
Highbury G ve
G r ee
2 km
1.0 miles
Deptford
Isle
Of
Dogs
EATING
Bermondsey Kitchen...............10 F4
Delfina...................................11 F4
Deptford
Garrison.................................
12 F4
Song Que...............................13 F2
New
New
Cross
DRINKING Cross
14 B1
Holly Bush..............................
Gate
Two Brewers......................... 15 D6
ENTERTAINMENT
New
16 C6
Battersea Arts Centre.............
Cross
Brixton Academy....................17 E6
Forum....................................18 D1
Lord's Cricket Ground............(see 6)
Mass......................................19 E6
Shepherd's Bush Empire......... 20 A4
SLEEPING
Dover Castle Hostel..................7 F4
Hampstead Village Guesthouse..8 C1
Palmers Lodge..........................9 B1
SHOPPING
Bermondsey Antiques Market..21 F4
22 E6
Brixton Market.......................
Lewisham
Broadway Market.................. 23 G2
LONDON
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0
97
lonelyplanet.com
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E6
E5
C6
D6
Hadley
re Rd
Talac
Kentish
Town
West
s Rd
Prince of Wale
ve
EATING
5ifty 4our.............................. 18
Breakfast Club.......................19
Dans le Noir.......................... 20
Duke of Cambridge............... 21
Lawford Rd
Engineer................................22
GBK.......................................23
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Bartholomew
Rd Konstam at the Prince Albert..24
British Library...........................5 D5
RochMuseum...........
Dickens House
Le Mercury............................25
6 F6
ester
Rd
London Zoo.............................
Little Bay............................... 26
7 A3
Ro
ch
Regent's Park...........................
Macondo...............................27
8 A4
es
ter
Wellcome Collection................
28
Ottolenghi.............................
9 D5
M
Pl
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29
Planet Organic.......................
ra
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S
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30
Rooburoo..............................
SLEEPING
St
Ro
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cra
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Ashlee House.........................
sS
s W 10 F5 est S&M Cafe..............................31
'
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32
Clink......................................
Wagamama..........................
a 11 F5
Jef
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Crescent Hotel.......................
Wagamama...........................33
12 E5
Camden
Generator...............................
13 E5
Rd
Harlingford Hotel...................14 E5
nny St
Jenkins Hotel.........................
15 D5St
Bo
s
Jesmond Dene Hotel..............16yneE5
a
Zetter Hotel........................... B17 H6
INFORMATION
Gaisford St
Gay's the Word........................
1
Judd Books...............................2
atshull Rd 3
University CollegePHospital......
Waterstone's........................... 4
Castlehaven Rd
Rd
Rhyl St
wl
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en
Queen'
s Cre
s
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Ma
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Barnsbur
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Matilda St
Muriel St
Ri
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10
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White Lion St
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Pe
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49
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Pentonville
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41
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16
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Cro
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Gas
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Camden
Passage
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Chapel M
Market
Panton St
y St
Rodne
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Killick S
St
Rd
Calsh ot St
Ch
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Donega
St
Gibson
Sq
St
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Midlan
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Cloudesley
Bemerton
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Havelock S
St
Coller
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28
25
Almeida
38
Upper St
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St
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St Pancras
Islington
Theberton St
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R
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Tolpu
30
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Sebbo
Ripplevale Gve
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Lee annia
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53
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Barnsbu
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35
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Thornhil
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Caledonia
St
St Pancras
International
(Eurostar)
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Bewd
Richmond Ave
Carnegie S
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King's
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Barn
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34
King's
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Loftin
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44
Park
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Bingfie
Wharfdale Rd
43
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Stat & Islington
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R
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Hig
Laycock St
Barnsbury
aul
St P
Compton Ave
H2
A2
D6
E6
B3
H1
H2
B3
C4
G5
t
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Ma
Hi
Coghb
rn ury
er
ool Rd
Liverp
ENTERTAINMENT
38
Almeida.................................
Caledonian
d
y R
Park
39
Barfly.....................................
wer
Bre
Bloomsbury Bowling Lanes.... 40
t
41
Curzon Renoir........................
lS
l
e
d
42
Dublin Castle..........................
Blun
Hen & Chickens.....................43
Hope & Anchor.....................44
Jazz Cafe................................45
Koko......................................46
Sadler's Wells........................ 47
SHOPPING
Camden Lock Market.............48 B2
Camden Passage Market.......49 H3
St
B2
Camden Stables Market.........50
ri d e
St
EC One..................................B51 G5
ton
g
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52
Lollipop London....................
H4
l
El
Palette London......................53 H2
ross
ge C
Colle
H2
E4
B2
A2
ll Rd
rnhi
Tho
DRINKING
Albert & Pearl........................ 34
Big Chill House.......................35
Lock Tavern...........................36
37
Proud.....................................
Rd
a St
Pl
Caledonian Rd
Sut
t on
St
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Cli
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D5
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SLEEPING
Gore.......................................19
Hempel..................................20
Holland House YHA...............
Ct 21
ood
22
Knightsbridge Hotel...............
kw
Oa
23
Levin.....................................
New Linden Hotel..................24
Vancouver Studios.................25
Vicarage Private Hotel........... 26
Olympia
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INFORMATION
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easyInternetcafe......................
wn 1 C6
sdok 2 H5
French Embassy.......................
Lan W
Netherlands Embassy...............3 E6
Trailfinders...........................(see 47)
Trailfinders European Travel.... 4 C6
Trailfinders One-Stop Travel
Shop....................................5 C6
Holland Park
Travel Bookshop......................
6 A2
Kensington
(Olympia)
Hill
Rd
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bro
Lad ns S
Gd
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Vil
Park Villa
s
Westb
Gdnsourne
28
36
P e mb
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Gd n
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Talbo
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Royal
Oak
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46
Award
Winning
Toilets
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Cre
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Colv
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44
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47
Royal See Earl's Court, Kensington & Chelsea Map (pp102-3)
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45
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Prince Co
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48
Knightsbridge
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19
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Elvaston
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30
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The Serpentine
TRANSPORT
Jason's Trip..............................52 D1
London Waterbus Company.....53 E1
Knightsbridge
t
ge S
Geor
DRINKING
Trailer Happiness......................42 B3
Windsor Castle.........................43 B4
SHOPPING
EC One....................................46
Harrods................................... 47
Harvey Nichols........................ 48
Minus Zero Records.................49
Portobello Road Market...........50
Rough Trade............................51
13
n gt o n R d
St
Albion
t
P ar k S
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Lanc
The Long
Water
15
K e n si
Pl
ENTERTAINMENT
Electric.....................................44 A2
Royal Albert Hall......................45 E6
The Round
Pond
wer
Hyde
Pl
St
d
Bu
Upp
ght
nau
Con Sq
Pl
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Su
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39
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200 m
0.1 miles
nJ
ubi
lee
Bri
d
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LONDON
0
0
Bloomsbury
Square
LONDON
110 L O N D O N W e s t E n d
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E6
B5
H4
C5
E6
G4
E5
E5
E6
B5
H1
H4
F5
SLEEPING
Brown's Hotel........................... 26
Charlotte Street Hotel...............27
Covent Garden Hotel................28
Haymarket Hotel...................... 29
Hazlitt's.................................... 30
One Aldwych........................... 31
Oxford St YHA..........................32
Sanderson.................................33
Soho Hotel............................... 34
A5
C1
E3
D5
D3
H4
B3
B1
C3
EATING
Abeno Too................................35 E4
Breakfast Club.......................... 36 C3
Fernandez & Wells....................37 C3
GBK.......................................... 38 D3
GBK......................................... 39 G4
Great Queen Street.................. 40 G2
Hakkasan..................................41 D1
Hibiscus....................................42 A3
Hummus Bros...........................43 C3
Kettners.................................... 44 D3
Konditor & Cook.....................(see 81)
La Perla.....................................45 C1
Leon..........................................46 B3
Leon.........................................47 A2
Leon......................................... 48 G5
Mother Mash............................49 B3
National Gallery Dining
Rooms...................................50 E5
Neal's Yard Salad Bar.................51 F3
Nordic Bakery........................... 52 C4
Ping Pong.................................53 B3
Red Veg....................................54 C2
Sacred.......................................55 B3
Sarastro.................................... 56 G3
Sketch...................................... 57 A3
Spiga........................................ 58 C3
Wagamama............................. 59 G4
Wagamama...............................60 E1
Wild Honey.............................. 61 A4
Yauatcha.................................. 62 C3
Zizzi.......................................... 63 G3
DRINKING
Absolut Ice Bar..........................64
Artesian....................................65
Be At One................................ 66
Candy Bar................................ 67
Coach & Horses........................68
Flat White.................................69
B4
A1
H4
D2
E3
C3
Friendly Society........................ 70
G-A-Y Bar................................ 71
Gordon's Wine Bar................... 72
Heights.....................................73
Lamb & Flag..............................74
Monmouth Coffee
Company.............................. 75
Princess Louise..........................76
Queen Mary............................. 77
ENTERTAINMENT
100 Club...................................78
Coliseum...................................79
Comedy Store.......................... 80
Curzon Soho............................ 81
Donmar Warehouse..................82
End............................................83
Ghetto...................................... 84
Guanabara............................... 85
Heaven.....................................86
Leicester Square Half-Price
Ticket Booth......................... 87
Lucky Voice...............................88
Popstarz....................................89
Ronnie Scott's........................... 90
Royal Opera House.................. 91
Soho Theatre............................ 92
D4
D3
G6
A1
F4
E3
G1
H5
C2
F5
D5
D3
F3
F2
D2
G2
F6
E5
B3
E2
D3
G3
D3
SHOPPING
Albam.......................................93 B4
BM Soho...................................94 C3
Fortnum & Mason.....................95 B6
Hamleys....................................96 B4
HMV.........................................97 B2
Liberty.......................................98 B3
Old Curiosity Shop................... 99 H2
Ray's Jazz.................................(see 5)
Rigby & Peller......................... 100 A4
Sister Ray................................ 101 C3
Topshop Oxford Circus........... 102 A2
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L O N D O N D o c k l a n d s & G re e n w i c h 111
West India
Quay DLR
Poplar
Dock
Cabo
19
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Poplar DLR
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21
500 m
0.3 miles
Manchester Rd
Limeharbou
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Millharbour
nd
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North
Greenwich
Millwall
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Dock
Pepper St
Crossharbour DLR
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SHOPPING
Greenwich Market.................23 C6
2
10 University
of Greenwich
Cutty
Sark
DLR
al
Deptfoigrdh
H
St
Ch
DRINKING
Deptford
ur
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22 D5
Trafalgar Tavern....................
Greenwich Pier 9
l' s
Pa
u
Pelton Rd
22
Ro y
B2
C6
A1
B2
A1
ss
13
Sto
GBK.......................................17
Inside.....................................18
19
Leon.......................................
Deptford
Wagamama...........................20
St
21
Zizzi.......................................
Ne
rk
Pa
SLEEPING
Harbour
House........13 D5
nce
PriMaster's
St
St Alfege's.............................
14 C6
St Christopher's Inn...............15 B6
EEATING
ve
ly n
16 C6
GBK.......................................
Rd
Sa
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u nd
Tunn
el
We
s tf
N
Avap
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D5
C5
C5
C6
A1
C6
D2
C5
C5
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D6
K
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St eor
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tta
R
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Chapel..................................... 2
Cutty Sark...............................3
Discover Greenwich.................4
Fan Museum...........................5
Museum in Docklands..............6
National Maritime Museum.....7
O2...........................................8
Old Royal Naval College..........9
Painted Hall...........................10
Queen's House...................... 11
Royal Observatory.................12
Man
ches
St
Spendrift Ave
INFORMATION
Trailfinders...............................1 B1
Mudchute
Park
ter R
d
Eastferry Rd
Millwall
Outer
Dock
12
LONDON
0
0
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Tower
10
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28
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St
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Ne
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Bridge
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Br Bridge
14
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54
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field
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Pl
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Leadenhall London
Market
Montag
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16
35
67
Borough
Market
St
s t le
Ca
St
Ol d
ton t
a a
L
ul s
26
T h ra
Southw le St
ark St
64
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uth
So
36
Berm
St
Copperfield St
Clink
St
45
Fournier St
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Union S
St
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Th a m e s
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Southwark
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48
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20
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15
Liverpool
St
Ol d
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2 29
Cornhill
K in
19
31
Hanbury St
70
59
St
Fashion
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Midd Artillery La Whow
R
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55
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St
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43
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71
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Exchange
Square
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City
QueC
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on
Cloak St
44
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St
9
St
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Rd
h St 56 en
Redchurc
re
39
G
30
na l
Beth Sclater St
68
Spitalfields
Brick
Lane
Market
Quaker St
51
73 76
37 74
Brushfield St
42
hP
l
St
pside
Change
18
g ha l l
N ew
Chea
Worship St
Sun
Ar i
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St
Moorgate
London Wal
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Ave
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St
St Paul's
Sou
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Row
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Lit itain
Br
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R
St opem
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St
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Centre
Fore
St
Boundary St
ate St
Aldersg
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13
Angel
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Chiswell
St
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ea
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Scrutton St
City University
St
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Gr
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Clere
St
Epworth
St
Bunhill
Fields
St
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24
Willow
St
Leonard St
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Barbican
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St
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Featherstone
St
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Ban
St
Fa n n
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Pl
swick
B r un
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C r a n wo
St
St
less
Peer
St
Old
ltic
Water
Flower
69
son
St
Rd Market
34
Columbia
Wk Drysdale St
Bowling Green
61
40 58
Austi 53
Coronet
Rd
n St
57
St
23
ia
gin
Boot St
Vir
62
65
49
Calvert
50
Ave
63
52 Ritvington
S 75
rcn o l d
us
Shoreditch
Old St
St
Ba
St
nor
500 m
0.3 miles
Curtain Rd
l
Centra
Rad
St
Bath
r St
Leve
Ashford
St
Chart St
Rood
La
St
or
a
Rd
ley
Ding
St
ick t
st w S
Ba Gee
g
Lon
k
nia W
32
Pitfield St
Rd
East
City
rdasher St
Habe
Hoxton St
Nile St
Charlotte
Rd
LONDON
112 L O N D O N C i t y & A r o u n d
el d
46
17
St
Katherines
Pier
Sha
d
47
Ga
ins
for
d
Th
am
St
es 8
lonelyplanet.com
L O N D O N C i t y & A r o u n d 113
B4
A3
C6
D6
D2
D6
B4
C6
B6
B5
A3
B6
A5
B6
D5
A4
B4
A5
D5
D5
C1
SLEEPING
Hoxton......................................24 C1
Orient.......................................25 B6
A6
B6
B6
B4
EATING
Brick Lane Beigel Bake.............. 30
Cafe Bangla.............................. 31
Fifteen.......................................32
GBK.......................................... 33
Hoxton Apprentice....................34
Konditor & Cook.......................35
Konditor & Cook...................... 36
Leon.........................................37
Leon......................................... 38
Les Trois Garons...................... 39
Macondo..................................40
Magdalen................................. 41
S&M Cafe................................ 42
Story Deli................................. 43
Wagamama..............................44
Wagamama.............................. 45
Zizzi......................................... 46
Zizzi......................................... 47
D2
D2
B1
C5
C1
B6
C4
B5
D3
D2
C1
C6
D3
D2
B5
A4
D5
D6
DRINKING
Anchor..................................... 48
Bar Music Hall...........................49
Bricklayer's Arms.......................50
Commercial Tavern.................. 51
Favela Chic................................52
A5
C1
C1
D2
C1
D1
B6
D3
D2
C1
C1
D3
C4
C1
ENTERTAINMENT
Barbican Centre........................(see 4)
Cargo........................................62 C1
Comedy Cafe............................63 C1
Menier Chocolate
Factory..................................64 A6
Plastic People............................65 C1
SeOne...................................... 66 C6
SHOPPING
Borough Market........................67
Brick Lane Market..................... 68
Columbia Road Flower
Market..................................69
Duke of Uke............................. 70
FairyGothMother...................... 71
Petticoat Lane
Market..................................72
Rough Trade............................. 73
Spitalfields Market.................... 74
Start..........................................75
Sunday (Up)Market.................. 76
B6
D2
D1
D3
D3
D3
D2
D3
C1
D2
LONDON
LONDON
114 L O N D O N D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s
(Continued from page 95)
Scams
When using ATMs, guard your PIN details
carefully. Dont use one that looks like its
been tampered with as there have been incidents of card cloning.
It should come as no surprise that some
Soho strip clubs and hostess bars are dodgy,
lonelyplanet.com
SIGHTS
With so much to see and do, it can be hard
to know where to start. Weather will be a
determining factor: the museums and galleries are great for a rainy day, but when the
sun shines make like a Londoner and head
to the parks you never know whether this
fine day will be your last. Otherwise, attack
the sights by area using the ordering of this
section as your guide.
Trafalgar Square
Trafalgar Sq is the public heart of London,
hosting rallies, marches and feverish New
Years festivities. Londoners congregate here
to celebrate anything from football victories
to the ousting of political leaders. Formerly
ringed by gnarling traffic, the squares been
tidied up and is now one of the worlds
grandest public places. At the heart of it,
Nelson surveys his fleet from the 43.5m-high
Nelsons Column (Map pp1089), erected in
1843 to commemorate Nelsons 1805 victory
over Napoleon off Cape Trafalgar in Spain.
At the edges of the square are four plinths,
three of which have permanent statues, while
LONDON IN
Two Days
Only two days? Start in Trafalgar Square (above) and see at least the outside of all the big-ticket
sights London Eye (p127), Houses of Parliament (p116), Westminster Abbey (opposite), St
Jamess Park and Palace (p118), Buckingham Palace (p117), Green Park (p118), Hyde Park
(p129), Kensington Gardens & Palace (p129) and then motor around the Tate Modern (p125)
until you get booted out. In the evening, explore Soho (p119). On day two race around the
British Museum (p120) then head to the City. Start with our walking tour (p133) and finish in
the Tower of London (p122). Head to the East End for an evening of ethnic food (p155) and
hip bars (p160).
Four Days
Take the two-day itinerary but stretch it to a comfortable pace. Stop at the National Gallery
(opposite) while youre in Trafalgar Sq, explore inside Westminster Abbey and St Pauls Cathedral
(p122) and allow half a day for each of the Tate Modern, British Museum and Tower of London.
On your extra evenings, check out Camden and Islington (p161) or splurge on a slap-up dinner
in Chelsea (p156).
One Week
As above, but add in a day each for Greenwich (p131), Kew Gardens (p133) and Hampton
Court Palace (p133).
lonelyplanet.com
NATIONAL GALLERY
important repository of art. Four million visitors descend annually to admire its 2300-plus
Western European paintings, spanning the
years 1250 to 1900.
Highlights include Turners The Fighting
Temeraire (voted Britains greatest painting),
Botticellis Venus and Mars and Van Goghs
Sunflowers. Da Vinci Code fans will make
a beeline for Leonardos The Virgin of the
Rocks, the sister of the one hanging in the
Louvre. The medieval religious paintings in
the Sainsbury Wing are fascinating, but for a
short, sharp blast of brilliance you cant beat
the truckloads of Monets, Manets, Czannes,
Degas and Renoirs in rooms 43 to 46.
Its all a bit overwhelming for one visit,
but as admissions free its possible to dip
into it again and again. Free one-hour guided
LONDON
L O N D O N S i g h t s 115
LONDON
116 L O N D O N S i g h t s
lonelyplanet.com
place of worship since 1614. There are windows commemorating churchgoers Caxton
and Milton, and Sir Walter Raleigh is buried
by the altar.
Of course, admission to the Abbey is free
if you wish to attend a service. On weekdays,
Matins is at 7.30am, Holy Communion at
8am and 12.30pm, and Choral Evensong
at 5pm. There are services throughout the
day on Sundays. You can sit and soak in the
atmosphere, even if youre not religious.
HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT
lonelyplanet.com
is also open.
Parliamentary recesses (ie holidays) last for
three months over the summer, and a couple
of weeks over Easter and Christmas. When
parliament is in recess there are guided tours
(75min tours adult/child 12/5; telephone for times) of both
chambers and other historic areas. UK residents can approach their MPs to arrange a free
tour and to climb the clock tower.
WESTMINSTER CATHEDRAL
daily at midday and 3pm, as well as additional tours at 11am and 2pm on weekdays.
The popular Rex Whistler Restaurant (%7887
8825; mains 16), featuring an impressive mural
from the artist, is open for breakfast, lunch
and snacks.
BANQUETING HOUSE
TATE BRITAIN
www.tate.org.uk; Millbank SW1; admission free; h10am5.50pm; tPimlico). Reaching from 1500 to the
BUCKINGHAM PALACE
LONDON
L O N D O N S i g h t s 117
LONDON
118 L O N D O N S i g h t s
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ST JAMESS PARK & ST JAMESS PALACE
With its manicured flower beds and ornamental lake, St Jamess Park is a wonderful place to
stroll and take in the views of Westminster,
Buckingham Palace and St Jamess Palace.
The striking Tudor gatehouse of St Jamess
Palace (Map pp104-5; Cleveland Row SW1; tGreen Park),
initiated by the palace-mad Henry VIII in
1530, is best approached from St Jamess St
to the north of the park. This was the residence of Prince Charles and his sons before
they shifted next door to Clarence House (1828),
following the death of its previous occupant,
the Queen Mother, in 2002. Its a great place
to pose for a photograph beside one of the
resolutely unsmiling royal guards.
GREEN PARK
Indulge your Cinderella fantasies while inspecting the exquisite state coaches and immaculately groomed royal horses housed
in the Royal Mews (Map pp104-5; % 7766 7302;
Buckingham Palace Rd SW1; adult/child 7.50/4.80; h10am5pm Aug & Sep, 11am-4pm mid-MarJul & Oct; tVictoria).
includes film, photography, theatre, installations, talks, performance art, DJs, digital art
and book readings. Stroll around the galleries,
watch a film, browse the bookshop, then head
to the bar for a beer.
SPENCER HOUSE
The ancestral home of Princess Dianas family, Spencer House (Map pp104-5; %7499 8620; www
.spencerhouse.co.uk; 27 St Jamess Pl SW1; adult/child 9/7;
h10.30am-5.45pm Sun Feb-Jul & Sep-Dec; tGreen Park)
lonelyplanet.com
LONDON CALLING
Download these to your MP3 player before
tackling the tube.
David Bowie London Boys
West End
Synonymous with big-budget musicals and
frenzied flocks of shoppers, the West End is
a strident mix of culture and consumerism.
More a concept than a fixed geographical
area, it nonetheless takes in Piccadilly Circus
and Trafalgar Sq to the south, Regent St to
the west, Oxford St to the north and Covent
Garden and the Strand to the east.
Elegant Regent St and frantic Oxford St are
the citys main shopping strips. Theyre beautifully lit at Christmas to coax the masses
away from the home fires and into the frying
pan sections of the many department stores
(see p166).
At the heart of the West End lies Soho, a grid
of narrow streets and squares hiding gay bars,
strip clubs, cafes and advertising agencies.
Carnaby St was the epicentre of the Swinging
London of the 1960s, but is now largely given
over to chain fashion stores, although some
interesting independent boutiques still lurk
in the surrounding streets.
Lisle and Gerrard Sts form the heart of
Chinatown, which is full of reasonably priced
Asian restaurants and unfairly hip youngsters. Its neighbour, pedestrianised Leicester
Sq (les-ter) heaves with tourists and buskers,
inevitably. Dominated by large cinemas, it
sometimes hosts star-studded premieres.
PICCADILLY
Midnight
The Kinks Waterloo Sunset
Morrissey Piccadilly Palare
Pet Shop Boys London; West End Girls
The Smiths London
hosts high-profile exhibitions and a small display from its permanent collection. The crafty
Academy has made it a condition of joining its
exclusive club of 80 artists that new members
donate one of their artworks. Past luminaries have included Constable, Gainsborough
and Turner, while Sir Norman Foster, David
Hockney and Tracey Emin are among the
current crop.
Burlington Arcade
The well-to-do Burlington Arcade (Map pp1089; 51 Piccadilly W1; tGreen Park), built in 1819,
is most famous for the Burlington Berties,
uniformed guards who patrol the area keeping an eye out for offences such as running,
chewing gum or whatever else might lower
the arcades tone.
LONDON
L O N D O N S i g h t s 119
LONDON
120 L O N D O N S i g h t s
COVENT GARDEN
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brother of Jane Seymour, in 1551. For two centuries it played host to royals (Elizabeth I once
lived here), foreign diplomats, wild masked
balls, peace treaties, the Parliamentary army
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L O N D O N S i g h t s 121
Wonderful though it is, the British Museum can sometimes feel like one vast repository for stolen
booty. Much of whats on display wasnt just picked up along the way by Victorian travellers
and explorers, but taken or purchased under dubious circumstances.
Restive foreign governments occasionally pop their heads over the parapet to demand the
return of their property. The British Museum says no and the problem goes away until the
next time. Not the Greeks, however. Theyve been demanding the return of the so-called Elgin
Marbles, the ancient marble sculptures that once adorned the Parthenon. The British Museum,
and successive British governments, steadfastly refuse to hand over the priceless works that
were removed and shipped to England by the British ambassador to the Ottoman Empire, the
Lord Elgin, between 1801 and 1805. (When Elgin blew all his dough, he sold the marbles to the
government.) The diplomatic spat continues. Only time will tell who blinks first.
The City
For most of its history, the City of London
was London. Its boundaries have changed
LONDON
LONDON
122 L O N D O N S i g h t s
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TOWER BRIDGE
LONDON
L O N D O N S i g h t s 123
LONDON
124 L O N D O N S i g h t s
largely intact and has several original 15thcentury buildings. Its the oldest and most attractive of the bunch, boasting a 17th-century
chapel and pretty landscaped gardens.
Grays Inn (Map pp104-5; %7458 7800; www.grays
lonelyplanet.com
THE MONUMENT
BARBICAN
DR JOHNSONS HOUSE
.middletemple.org.uk; Middle Temple Lane EC4; h 1011.30am & 3-4pm Mon-Fri; t Temple) and Inner
Temple (Map pp104-5; %7797 8247; Kings Bench Walk
EC4; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri; tTemple) both sit be-
East End
Traditionally the most economically depressed part of the metropolis, a fair bit of
lonelyplanet.com
Set in an industrial building with an impressive glazed-roof extension White Cube (Map
TATE-A-TATE
To get between Londons Tate galleries
in style, the Tate Boat which sports a
Damien Hirst dot painting will whisk you
from one to the other, stopping en route at
the London Eye. Services run 10am to 6pm
daily at 40-minute intervals. A River Roamer
hop-on hop-off ticket (purchased on board)
costs 8, single tickets 4.
Tate Modern
LONDON
L O N D O N S i g h t s 125
LONDON
126 L O N D O N S i g h t s
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ter and thatch. Theres also an extensive exhibition about Shakespeare and his times.
Plays are still performed here, and while
Shakespeare and his contemporaries dominate, modern plays are also staged (see the
website for upcoming performances). As in
Elizabethan times, groundlings can watch
proceedings for a modest price (5; seats are
15 to 35), but theres no protection from the
elements and youll have to stand.
Southwark Cathedral
One of Londons most genuinely gruesome attractions, the Old Operating Theatre Museum (Map
p112; %7188 2679; www.thegarret.org.uk; 9A St Thomas St
SE1; adult/child 5.45/3; h10.30am-4.45pm; tLondon
Bridge) is Britains only surviving 19th-century
The Norman Fosterdesigned, wonky-eggshaped City Hall (Map p112; %7983 4000; www.london
.gov.uk; Queens Walk SE1; admission free; h8am-8pm MonFri) is an architectural feast of glass and home
lonelyplanet.com
London Dungeon
London Aquarium
(Map p112;%0871-423 2240; www.thedungeons.com; 2834 Tooley St SE1; adult/child 19.95/14.95; h10.30am-5pm,
longer hrs some weeks, check website; tLondon Bridge), as
You can pop down to the London Underground air-raid shelter, look at gas masks
and ration books, stroll around Southwark
during the Blitz and learn about the battle on
the Home Front at the Britain at War Experience
London Eye
Hayward Gallery
WWII memorabilia.
SOUTH BANK
LONDON
Design Museum
L O N D O N S i g h t s 127
LONDON
128 L O N D O N S i g h t s
LAMBETH
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With seven floors of interactive and educational exhibits, the Science Museum (Map pp100-1;
%0870 870 4868; www.sciencemuseum.org.uk; Exhibition Rd
SW7; admission free; h10am-6pm; tSouth Kensington)
lonelyplanet.com
KENSINGTON PALACE
was built in 1692 to provide shelter for exservicemen. Today it houses hundreds of war
veterans known as Chelsea Pensioners, charming old chaps who are generally regarded as
national treasures. As you wander around the
grounds or inspect the elegant chapel and interesting museum, youll see them pottering
about in their winter blue coats or summer
reds. The Chelsea Flower Show takes place in
the hospital grounds in May.
CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDEN
One for the garden obsessives (the less hardcore should head to the many free parks or
Kew), this historic botanical garden (Map pp1023; %7352 5646; www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk; 66 Royal
Hospital Rd SW3; adult/child 7/4; hnoon-5pm Wed-Fri,
to 6pm Sat & Sun; tSloane Sq) is one of the oldest
HYDE PARK
At 145 hectares, Hyde Park (Map pp100-1;h5.30ammidnight; tMarble Arch, Hyde Park Corner or Queensway)
Marylebone
With one of Londons nicest high streets and
Regents Park on its doorstep, increasingly hip
Marylebone is an interesting area to wander.
LONDON
L O N D O N S i g h t s 129
LONDON
130 L O N D O N S i g h t s
REGENTS PARK
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North London
WALLACE COLLECTION
British Library
MADAME TUSSAUDS
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L O N D O N S i g h t s 131
Hampstead Heath
Technicolour hairstyles, facial furniture, intricate tattoos and ambitious platform shoes
are the look of Bohemian Camden, a lively
neighbourhood of pubs, live-music venues,
interesting boutiques and, most famously,
Camden Market (see p167). There are often
a few cartoon punks hanging around earning a few bucks for being photographed by
tourists, as well as none-too-discreet dope
dealers.
Freud Museum
ST JOHNS WOOD
Greenwich
Simultaneously the first and last place on
earth, Greenwich (gren-itch) straddles the
LONDON
Wellcome Collection
LONDON
132 L O N D O N S i g h t s
cent example of monumental classical architecture. Parts are now used by the University
of Greenwich and Trinity College of Music,
but you can visit the chapel and the extraordinary Painted Hall, which took artist Sir James
Thornhill 19 years of hard graft to complete.
The complex was built on the site of the
15th-century Palace of Placentia, the birthplace of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. This
Tudor connection will be explored in Discover
Greenwich, a new centre due to open in late
2009. The tourist office (%0870 608 2000; www.green
wich.gov.uk) will be housed here, but until then
look for it in temporary buildings nearby.
lonelyplanet.com
THE O2
The worlds largest dome (365m in diameter) opened on 1 January 2000 at a cost of
789m as the Millennium Dome, but closed
on 31 December, only hours before the third
millennium began. Renamed The O2 (Map p111;
%8463 2000; www.theo2.co.uk; Peninsula Sq SE10; tNorth
Greenwich), its now a 20,000-seater sports and
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Englands largest and grandest Tudor structure. It was already one of the most sophis-
Set in an Art Nouveau building amid gorgeous gardens, Horniman Museum (Map pp96-7;
%8699 1872; www.horniman.ac.uk; 100 London Rd SE23;
admission free; h10.30am-5.30pm; dForest Hill) has
LONDON
L O N D O N C i t y W a l k i n g T o u r 133
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0
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CITY WALK
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WALK FACTS
Start: St Bartholomew-the-Great
Finish: 30 St Mary Axe
Distance: 2 miles
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LONDON
134 L O N D O N C i t y W a l k i n g T o u r
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L O N D O N L o n d o n f o r C h i l d re n 135
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TOURS
One of the best ways to get yourself orientated when you first arrive in London is with a
24-hour hop-on/hop-off pass for the doubledecker bus tours operated by the Original
London Sightseeing Tour (%8877 1722; www.theorig
inaltour.com; adult/child 22/12) or the Big Bus Company
(%7233 9533; www.bigbustours.com; adult/child 24/10).
LONDON
the busy Bank intersection, lined with neoclassical temples to commerce, you might
think youve stumbled into the ancient
Roman forum (the actual forum was a couple of blocks east). Head for the equestrian
statue of the Iron Duke (14), behind which a
metal pyramid details the many significant
buildings here. Directly behind you is the
Royal Exchange (15); walk through it and exit
through the door on the right, then turn left
onto Cornhill.
If youre not churched out, cross the road to
St Michaels (16), a 1672 Wren design which still
has its box pews. Hidden in the warren of tiny
passages behind the church is its churchyard
(17). Head through to Gracechurch St, turn
left and cross the road to wonderful Leadenhall
Market (18). This is roughly where the ancient
forum once stood.
As you wander out the far end, the famous
Lloyds building (19) displays its innards for all
to see.
Once you turn left onto Lime St, youll see
ahead of you Norman Fosters 180m 30 St Mary
Axe building (20). Its dramatic curved shape has
given birth to many nicknames (the Crystal
Phallus, the Towering Innuendo), but its the
Gherkin by which its fondly referred. Built
nearly 900 years after St Bartholomew-theGreat, its testimony to the Citys ability to
constantly reinvent itself for the times.
LONDON
136 L O N D O N Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s
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bar, this Bohemian basement is bedecked in kids-room wallpaper and Barbie dolls.
G-A-Y Bar (Map pp108-9; %7494 2756; 30 Old Compton St W1; tLeicester Sq) At the time of research the
famous club night of the same name was planning to move. Find out where to from this, its little boozy sister.
Gays the Word (Map pp98-9; %7278 7654; 66 Marchmont St WC1; tRussell Sq) Books and mags of all
descriptions.
George & Dragon (Map p112; %7012 1100; 2 Hackney Rd E2; tOld St) Appealing corner pub where the
crowd is often as eclectically furnished as the venue.
Ghetto (Map pp108-9; %7287 3726; 5-6 Falconberg Ct W1; admission 3-7;tTottenham Court Rd) Home to a
roster of crazy nights such as The Cock, with inexpensive drinks and alternative music.
Heaven (Map pp108-9; %7930 2020; The Arches, Villiers St WC2; tCharing Cross) One of the worlds bestknown gay clubs, Saturday nights the big one (15) but Mondays Popcorn is lots of frothy fun (free before midnight,
5 after).
Popstarz (Map pp108-9; www.popstarz.org/popzmini; Sin, Andrew Borde St WC1; admission free-7; h10pm4am Fri; tTottenham Court Rd) Londons legendary indie club night. The online flyer gets you in cheaper.
Royal Vauxhall Tavern (RVT; Map p107; %7820 1222; 372 Kennington Ln SE11; admission free-7;
tVauxhall) A much-loved pub with crazy cabaret and drag acts.
Two Brewers (Map pp96-7; %7498 4971; 114 Clapham High St SW4; admission free-5; tClapham Common) Friendly gay bar with regular acts and a nightclub out the back.
SLEEPING
Take a deep breath and sit down before reading this section because no matter what your
budget, London is a horribly pricey city to sleep
in one of the most expensive in the world,
in fact. Anything below 80 per night for a
double is pretty much budget, and at the top
end, how does a 3500 penthouse sound? For
this book weve defined the price categories for
London differently than for the other chapters.
Double rooms ranging between 80 and 150
per night are considered midrange; cheaper or
more expensive options fall into the budget or
the top-end categories respectively.
Ignore the scary money stuff for a minute
London has a wonderful selection of interesting hotels, whether they be brimming
with history or zany modern decor. Most of
the ritzier places offer substantial discounts
on the weekends, for advance bookings
and at quiet times (if there is such a thing
in London).
Public transport is exceptionally good, so
you dont need to be sleeping at Buckingham
Palace to be at the heart of things. However,
if youre planning some late nights and dont
fancy enduring the night buses (a consummate London experience, but one youll want
only once) itll make sense not to wander too
far from the action (see p161).
Londons a noisy city, so expect a bit of the
din to seep into your room. If youre a light
sleeper, earplugs are a sensible precaution,
as is requesting a room back from the street
and higher up.
Its now becoming the norm for budget and
midrange places to offer free wireless internet.
The expensive places will offer it too, but often
charge. Hostels tend to serve up free breakfast
(of the toast and cereal variety). If your hotel
charges for breakfast, check the prices; anything over 8 just isnt worth it when there are
so many eateries to explore.
LONDON
L O N D O N S l e e p i n g 137
LONDON
138 L O N D O N S l e e p i n g
BOOKING SERVICES
Its possible to make same-day accommodation bookings for free at most tourist offices, and
Visit London (%08456 443010; www.visitlondonoffers.com) also has good deals.
At Home in London (%8748 1943; www.athomeinlondon.co.uk) Can arrange B&B accommodation and
West End
This is the heart of the action, so naturally
accommodation comes at a price, and a hefty
one at that. A couple of hostels cater for wouldbe Soho hipsters of more modest means.
BUDGET
Kempdesigned hotel (see boxed text, opposite) has a giant cat sculpture in a reception
comfortable, welcoming feel at this oldfashioned, slightly chintzy place thats been
in the same family for 40 years.
Arran House Hotel (Map pp104-5; %7636 2186;
www.arranhotel-london.com; 77-79 Gower St WC1; s/d/
tr/q without bathroom 50/77/95/101, with bathroom
60/100/118/122; i wi-fi; t Goodge St) Period
LONDON
L O N D O N S l e e p i n g 139
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140 L O N D O N S l e e p i n g
conversion of a Victorian warehouse. The furnishings are an enticing blend of old and new,
and the facilities cutting edge. You can even
choose the colour of your rooms lighting.
The City
Bristling with bankers during the week, you
can often pick up a considerable bargain in
the City on weekends.
St Pauls YHA (Map pp104-5; %0845 371 9012; www
.yha.org.uk; 36 Carter Lane EC4; dm 27; iwi-fi; tSt
Pauls) The former St Pauls Cathedral Choir
L O N D O N S l e e p i n g 149
Browns (p138)
fantasy, this is your chance. Its a modest affair (what do you expect for a tenner?), but
the dorms are tidy, freshly painted and get
loads of natural light. If you fancy a sound
sleep, bring earplugs or drink yourself into
oblivion downstairs.
St Christophers Village (Map p112; %7407 1856; www
.st-christophers.co.uk; 163 Borough High St SE1; dm 16-24, d &
tw 52; i; tLondon Bridge) With three locations
Hempel (p150)
Sanderson (p140)
Any of the Firmdale hotels (see boxed
text, p139)
www.knightsbridgehotel.com; 10 Beaufort Gdn SW3; s 170185, d 210-295, ste 345-595; iwi-fi; tKnightsbridge)
the Gore serves up British grandiosity (antiques, carved four-posters, a secret bathroom
in the Tudor room) with a large slice of camp.
How else could you describe the Judy Garland
LONDON
LONDON
150 L O N D O N S l e e p i n g
its only the addition of kitchenettes and a selfservice laundry that differentiate these smart
but reasonably priced studios (sleeping from
one to three people) from a regular Victorian
town-house hotel. In spring, the garden is
filled with colour and fragrance.
New Linden Hotel (Map pp100-1; %7221 4321; www
.newlinden.co.uk; 58-60 Leinster Sq W2; s 95, d 129-179, tr/
f/ste 210/150/189; iwi-fi; tBayswater) Cramming
North London
EUSTON & KINGS CROSS
Greenwich
If youd rather keep the bustle of central
London at arms length and nightclubbing
is your idea of hell, Greenwich offers a villagey ambience and some great old pubs
to explore.
BUDGET
West London
Earls Court is lively, cosmopolitan and so
popular with travelling Antipodeans its been
nicknamed Kangaroo Valley. There are no real
sights, but it does have inexpensive digs and
an infectious holiday atmosphere.
BUDGET
pastel colours, draped fabrics and simple designs of this modest hotel create a cheery,
welcoming atmosphere, heightened by the
friendly family that runs the joint. Theres no
lift, so a complimentary workout is provided
for those on the upper floors. The double
rooms can be tight but the twins have a bit
more space.
Twenty Nevern Square (Map pp102-3; %7565 9555;
www.twentynevernsquare.co.uk; 20 Nevern Sq SW5; s 79140, d 85-189; iwi-fi; tEarls Court) An Ottoman
LONDON
L O N D O N S l e e p i n g 151
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152 L O N D O N E a t i n g
Airports
EATING
Dining out in London has become so fashionable that you can hardly open a menu without
banging into some celebrity chef or restaurateur. Unfortunately, this doesnt automatically
guarantee quality food and service can be
hit and miss regardless of price tag. In this
section, we steer you towards restaurants and
cafes distinguished by their location, value
for money, unique features, original settings
and, of course, good food. Vegetarians neednt
worry; London has a host of dedicated meatfree joints, while most others offer at least a
token dish.
lonelyplanet.com
BUDGET
around the corner, theres no shortage of delicious charcuterie and cheese to fill the fresh
baguettes on the counter of this teensy cafe.
The coffees superb.
Sacred (Map pp108-9; %7734 1415; 13 Ganton St
W1; mains 4-5; h7.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-8pm
Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; tOxford Circus) The spiritual
Its fitting that Oliver Peytons acclaimed restaurant should celebrate British food (such
as smoked haddock, traditional Suffolk cob
chicken and Farmer Sheps aged sirloin),
being in the National Gallery and overlooking
Trafalgar Sq. For a much cheaper option with
LONDON
West End
Soho and Covent Garden are the gastronomic
heart of London, with stacks of restaurants
and cuisines to choose from at budgets to
suit both booze hounds and theatre-goers.
If youre craving a decent coffee, this is the
place to come.
L O N D O N E a t i n g 153
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154 L O N D O N E a t i n g
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MIDRANGE
Queen, her claret-coloured walls and mismatched wooden chairs suggesting cosiness
and informality. But the foods still the best
of British, including brawn, lamb that melts
in the mouth and Arbroath smokie (a whole
smoked fish with creamy sauce).
Smiths of Smithfield (Map pp104-5; %7251 7950;
67-77 Charterhouse St EC1; mains 1st fl 11-17, top fl 1729; tFarringdon) This converted meat-packing
The City
Youll be sorely dismayed if youve got an
empty belly on a Sunday morning in the City.
Even during the busy weekdays, your best
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L O N D O N E a t i n g 155
Its an unnerving, but not uncommon, experience to discover the idiosyncratic cafe or pub you
were so proud of finding on your first day in London popping up on every other high street.
But amongst the endless Caffe Neros, Pizza Expresses and All-Bar-Ones are some gems, or, at
least, great fallback options.
Some of the best include:
GBK (Map pp104-5, pp100-1, pp98-9, pp102-3, p111, p112, pp108-9; www.gbkinfo.com) Producing creative burger
From the hit-and-miss Bangladeshi restaurants of Brick Lane to the Vietnamese strip
on Kingsland Rd, and the Jewish, Spanish,
French, Italian and Greek eateries in between,
the East Ends cuisine is as multicultural as
its residents.
BUDGET
MIDRANGE
Story Deli (Map p112; %7247 3137; 3 Dray Walk; pizzas 9-10; tLiverpool St) This organic cafe with
mismatched cutlery poking out of jam jars,
vintage mirrors leaning haphazardly against
walls, high ceilings and solid wooden furniture (mismatched of course) is justifiably
popular. The pizzas are thin and crispy, and
you can rest assured that anything fishy has
been sustainably caught.
Hoxton Apprentice (Map p112; %7749 2828; 16
Hoxton Sq N1; mains 9-17; tOld St) Similar in concept to Fifteen (below), both professionals
and apprentices work the kitchen in this restaurant, housed appropriately enough in a
former Victorian primary school. The music
selections awful (hotel lobby piano when we
visited), but the prices are reasonable and
its under the auspices of the Training For
Life charity.
oFifteen (Map p112; %0871-330 1515; www
more a takeaway than a cafe and sells dirtcheap bagels. Theyre a top snack on a bellyful
of booze.
Cafe Bangla (Map p112; %7247 7885; 128 Brick Ln E1;
mains 4-13; tLiverpoool St) Dining in the famous
curry houses of Brick Lane is inevitably more
about the experience than the food. Amongst
the hordes of practically interchangeable restaurants, this one stands out for its murals of
scantily-clad women riding dragons, alongside a tribute to Princess Di.
Song Que (Map pp96-7; %7613 3222; 134 Kingsland Rd
E2; mains 5-7; tOld St) If you arrive after 7.30pm,
expect to queue as this humble eatery has
already had its cover blown as one of the
best Vietnamese in London. Theres never
much time to admire the institutional-green
walls, fake lobsters and bizarre horse portrait,
as youll be shunted out shortly after your
last bite.
Macondo (Map p112; %7729 1119; 8-9 Hoxton Sq N1;
mains 5-8; h9.30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri &
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156 L O N D O N E a t i n g
of South London, Estralas waistcoated waiters deliver the national dish, bacalhau (salt
cod), in several different guises, along with
excellent tapas.
Mesn Don Felipe (Map pp104-5; %7928 3237; 53 The
Cut SE1; tapas 3-6; tWaterloo) The Don is tops for
tapas and an authentic Spanish atmosphere,
helped by bright orange walls and theatrical
but friendly staff. Serves are a decent size for
the price, which explains why this place is
always rammed with satisfied customers.
lonelyplanet.com
MIDRANGE
Smart but informal, this place sits somewhere between a restaurant and a gastropub,
BUDGET
lonelyplanet.com
kitchen firebrand whos been gradually taking over Chelsea; around the corner youll
find his Michelin-starred, mortgage-yourmother eponymous restaurant as well as his
blinged-up fish diner. This excellent, informal British/French restaurant sits between
somewhere between the two: dinners can
be pricey but a delicious breakfast or lunch
neednt break the bank.
TOP END
BUDGET
(p155)
The Parlour at Sketch (p152)
Tapa Room at Providores (p158)
The Bakery at National Gallery Dining
Rooms (p153)
Pretheatre menu at Wild Honey (p152)
LONDON
ian, Persian and Mediterranean dishes including salads, falafel and quiches.
Orsini (Map pp102-3; %7581 5553; 8a Thurloe Pl
L O N D O N E a t i n g 157
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158 L O N D O N E a t i n g
Marylebone
You wont go too far wrong planting yourself on a table anywhere along Marylebones
charming High Street.
Providores and Tapa Room (Map pp104-5; %7935
6175; 109 Marylebone High St W1; mains 18-25; tBaker
St) New Zealands greatest culinary export
North London
Allow at least an evening to explore
Islingtons Upper St, along with the lanes
leading off it. Camdens great for cheap
eats, while neighbouring Chalk Farm and
Primrose Hill are salted with gastropubs and
upmarket restaurants.
BUDGET
lonelyplanet.com
See p155.
MIDRANGE
Greenwich
Inside (Map p111; %8265 5060; 19 Greenwich South St
SE10; mains 13-17; d/DLR Greenwich) Cap off your
genteel Greenwich visit with white linen and
smart food (British with a dash of Turkish) in
this elegant dining room. The lunch special
(two courses for 12) is a steal.
Self-Catering
There are supermarkets absolutely everywhere in central London. Look out for the big
names: Waitrose, Tesco, Sainsburys, Marks &
Spencer, Morrisons and Asda.
Planet Organic Bayswater (Map pp100-1; %7727 2227;
42 Westbourne Grove W2; tBayswater); Fitzrovia (Map
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in this cafe/supermarket is organic. Fresh vegies are sourced (where possible) directly from
British farms.
La Fromagerie Cafe (Map pp104-5; %7935 0341; 2-6
Moxon St W1; mains 8-13; tBaker St) This providorecafe has bowls of delectable salads, antipasto,
peppers and beans scattered about the long
communal table. Huge slabs of bread invite
you to tuck in, and all the while the heavenly
waft from the cheese room beckons.
DRINKING
As long as theres been a city, Londoners have
loved to drink and, as history shows, often
immoderately. The pub is the focus of social life and theres always one near at hand.
When the sun shines, drinkers spill out into
the streets, parks and squares as well. It was
only in 2008 that drinking was banned on
the tube!
Soho is undoubtedly the heart of bar culture, with enough variety to cater to all tastes.
Camdens great for grungy boozers and rock
kids, although its facing stiff competition on
the Bohemian-cool front from the venues
around Hoxton and Shoreditch.
Now that Princes William and Harry have
hit their stride, the Sloane Ranger scene has
been reborn in exclusive venues in South
Ken(sington), although the Turbo Sloanes
now count megarich commoners among their
numbers.
Us mere mortals will find plenty of pubcrawl potential in places like Clerkenwell,
Islington, Southwark, Notting Hill, Earls
Courthell, its just not that difficult. The
reviews below are simply to make sure you
dont miss out on some of the most historic,
unusual, best-positioned or excellent examples of the genre.
West End
CAFES
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160 L O N D O N D r i n k i n g
The City
Vertigo 42 (Map p112; Tower 42, Old Broad St, EC2; tLiverpool St) Book a two-hour slot in this 42nd-floor
bar with vertiginous views across London.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (Map pp104-5; Wine Office
Ct, 145 Fleet St EC4; tHolborn) Rebuilt six years
after the Great Fire, it was popular with Dr
Johnson, Thackeray, Dickens and the visiting
Mark Twain. Touristy but always atmospheric
and enjoyable for a pub meal.
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Marylebone
Artesian (Map pp108-9; Langham Hotel, 1C Portland Pl W1;
tOxford Circus) For a dose of colonial glamour
with a touch of the orient, the sumptuous bar
at the Langham hits the mark. Rum is the speciality here award-winning cocktails (15)
are concocted from the 60 varieties on offer.
Heights (Map pp108-9; 7580 0111; St Georges Hotel, 14
Langham Pl W1; tOxford Circus) Take the lift up to
this understated bar with huge windows to
showcase the panorama. Its an unusual view,
managing to miss most of the big sights, but
impressive nonetheless.
North London
EUSTON & KINGS CROSS
Albert & Pearl (Map pp98-9; %7354 9993; 181 Upper St;
tHighbury & Islington) The chap behind Fabric
(p163) also has a finger in this chic, cocktailfilled pie (pie with cocktails now theres
an idea). DJs play until the small hours on
Friday and Saturday nights (admission 3
after midnight).
Greenwich
Trafalgar Tavern (Map p111; %8858 2909; Park Row
SE10; DLR Cutty Sark) An 1837 Regency-style pub
that stands above the site of the Placentia
Palace where Henry VIII was born. Dickens,
Gladstone and Disraeli have all darkened its
doors, although they wouldnt have had the
wonderful views of the O2 and Canary Wharf
highrises to admire.
ENTERTAINMENT
From West End luvvies to End End geezers,
Londoners have always loved a spectacle.
With bear baiting and public executions no
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162 L O N D O N E n t e r t a i n m e n t
Theatre
London is a world capital for theatre and
theres a lot more than mammoth musicals
to tempt you into the West End. The term
West End as with Broadway generally
refers to the big-money productions like musicals, but also includes such heavyweights
as the Royal Court Theatre (Map pp102-3; %7565
5000; www.royalcourttheatre.com; Sloane Sq SW1; tSloane
Sq), the patron of new British writing; the
National Theatre (Map pp104-5; %7452 3000; www
.nationaltheatre.org.uk; South Bank SE1; t Waterloo),
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Nightclubs
Londons had a lot of practice perfecting the
art of clubbing Samuel Pepys used the term
in 1660! and the volume and variety of venues in todays city is staggering. Clublands no
longer confined to the West End, with megaclubs scattered throughout the city wherever
theres a venue big enough, cheap enough or
quirky enough to hold them. Some run their
own regular weekly schedule, while others host
promoters on an ad hoc basis. The big nights
are Friday and Saturday, although youll find
some of the most cutting-edge sessions midweek. Admission prices vary widely; its often
cheaper to arrive early or prebook tickets.
Cargo (Map p112; %7739 3440; www.cargo-london
.com; 83 Rivington St EC2; admission free-16; tOld St)
A hugely popular club with local and international DJs and a courtyard where you can
simultaneously enjoy big sounds and the
great outdoors.
oThe End (Map pp108-9; %7419 9199; www
.endclub.com; 18 West Central St WC1; admission 6-16;
hfrom around 10.30pm Mon-Sat, 5.30am-midday Sun;
tTottenham Court Rd) The End offers an ec-
BURLESQUE IS BACK
Basques, suspenders, cinched waists, circle skirts, tweed, top hats, trilbies, spats,
feathers, foxtrot, lindy hop, divas, mime
artists and of course cabaret burlesques
retro sexy sophistication sizzles. Revived by
Immodesty Blaize in Blighty and Dita von
Teese stateside, theres no hotter trend for
night owls. Here are the most decadently
divine nights: dont forget to dress up and
adopt an air of languid panache.
Agent Lynch (www.agentlynch.com)
Immodesty Blaize (www.immodestyblaize.com)
Jitterbugs (www.jitterbugs.co.uk)
Lady Luck (www.ladyluckclub.co.uk)
Madame Jo Jos (www.madamejojos.com)
Velvet London (www.myspace.com/velvet
london)
Viva Cake (www.myspace.com/vivacakebitches)
Volupt (www.volupte-lounge.com)
Live Music
ROCK & JAZZ
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164 L O N D O N E n t e r t a i n m e n t
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Green W12; tShepherds Bush) A slightly dishevelled, midsize theatre that hosts some terrific
bands.
See also Bar Music Hall (p160), Mother and
333 (p160), and Proud (p161).
CLASSICAL
Londons legendary jazz club has been pulling in the hep cats since 1959.
Shepherds Bush Empire (Map pp96-7;%8354
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Comedy
When Londons comics arent being terribly
clever on TV, you might find them doing
stand-up somewhere in your neighbourhood.
There are numerous venues to choose from,
and many pubs getting in on the act.
99 Club (%7739 5706; www.the99club.co.uk; admission
10-25) Not quite the famous 100 Club, this
virtual venue takes over various bars around
town from Tuesday to Sunday night, with four
rival clones on Saturdays.
Comedy Cafe (Map p112; %7739 5706; www.com
edycafe.co.uk; 66-68 Rivington St EC2; admission free-15;
tOld St) Have dinner and watch some com-
Sport
As the capital of a football-mad nation, you
can expect London to be brimming over with
sporting spectacles during the cooler months.
The Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Championships
(p136) is one of the biggest events on the citys
summer calendar.
FOOTBALL
.com)
RUGBY
Cinemas
Glitzy premieres usually take place in one of
the mega multiplexes in Leicester Sq.
For less mainstream movies try Curzon
Cinemas (%0870 756 4621; www.curzoncinemas.com; tickets 8-12) Chelsea (Map pp102-3; 206 Kings Rd SW3; tSloane
Sq); Mayfair (Map pp104-5; 38 Curzon St W1; tGreen Park);
Renoir (Map pp98-9; Brunswick Sq WC1; tRussell Sq); Soho
(Map pp108-9; 99 Shaftesbury Ave W1; tLeicester Sq).
tenhamhotspur.com)
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166 L O N D O N S h o p p i n g
SHOPPING
Napoleon famously described Britain as a
nation of shopkeepers, which doesnt sound
at all bad to us! From world-famous department stores to quirky backstreet retail revelations, London is a mecca for shoppers with an
eye for style and a card to exercise. If youre
looking for something distinctly British, eschew the Union Jackemblazoned kitsch of
the tourist thoroughfares and fill your bags
with Twinings tea, Paul Smith shirts, Royal
Doulton china and Marmite. For bookshops,
see p94.
Department Stores
Londons famous department stores are a
tourist attraction in themselves, even if you
dont intend to make a personal contribution
to the orgy of consumption.
Harrods (Map pp100-1; %7730 1234; 87 Brompton
Rd SW1; tKnightsbridge) An overpriced theme
park for fans of Britannia, Harrods is always
crowded with slow tourists.
Harvey Nichols (Map pp100-1; %7235 5000; 109125 Knightsbridge SW1; t Knightsbridge) This is
Londons temple of high fashion, jewellery
and perfume.
Fortnum & Mason (Map pp108-9; %7734 8040;
181 Piccadilly W1; tPiccadilly Circus) The byword
for quality and service from a bygone era,
steeped in 300 years of tradition. It is particularly noted for its old-world, ground-floor
food hall, where Britains elite come for their
cornflakes and bananas.
Liberty (Map pp108-9; %7734 1234; 214-220 Regent
St W1; tOxford Circus) An irresistible blend of
contemporary styles and indulgent pampering
in a mock-Tudor fantasyland of carved dark
wood. Access from Great Marlborough St.
lonelyplanet.com
Fashion
If theres a label worth having, youll find it
in central London. Oxford St is the place for
High St fashion, while Regent St cranks it
up a notch. Carnaby St is no longer the hip
hub that it was in the 1960s, but the lanes
around it still have some interesting boutiques. These days, stylists are more likely to
seek out attention-grabbing new looks on
Portobello Rd. For something different, head
to Camden, Exmouth Market or Islingtons
Upper and Cross Sts.
Kensington High St has a nice mix of chains
and boutiques, Bond St has designers galore,
while Knightsbridge draws the hordes with
quintessentially English department stores.
Savile Row is famous for bespoke tailoring,
and Jermyn St is the place for Sir to buy his
smart clobber (particularly shirts).
Look out for dress agencies that sell secondhand designer clothes, bags and shoes there
are particularly rich pickings in the wealthier
parts of town.
Albam (Map pp108-9; %3157 7000; 23 Beak St W1;
tOxford Circus) UK-produced classic duds for
stylish dudes.
Butler & Wilson Chelsea (Map pp102-3; %7352 3045;
189 Fulham Rd SW3; tSouth Kensington); Mayfair (Map
pp104-5; %7409 2955; 20 South Moulton St W1; tBond
St) Camp costume jewellery, antique baubles
and Alison Skeates sell beautiful contemporary collections by British and international
jewellery designers.
KJs Laundry (Map pp104-5; %7486 7855; 74 Marylebone
Ln W1; tBond St) Break out of the High St uniform in this womens boutique, which sources
ranges from up-and-coming designers.
Lollipop London (Map pp98-9; %7226 4005; 114
Islington High St N1; tAngel) A girlie boutique
stocking shoes and accessories from independent designers.
Palette London (Map pp98-9; %7288 7428; 21
Canonbury Ln N1; tHighbury & Islington) Fancy an
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L O N D O N S h o p p i n g 167
London has more than 350 markets selling everything from antiques and curios to flowers and
fish. Some, such as Camden and Portobello Rd, are full of tourists, while others exist just for the
locals and sell everything from lunch to underwear. Heres a sample:
Bermondsey Antiques Market (Map pp96-7; Bermondsey Sq SE1; h4am-1pm Fri; tBorough) The
place to come for opera glasses, bowling balls, hatpins, costume jewellery, porcelain or other
curios.
Borough Market (Map p112; cnr Borough High & Stoney Sts SE1; h11am-5pm Thu, noon-6pm Fri, 9am4pm Sat; tLondon Bridge) A farmers market sometimes called Londons Larder, it has been here
in some form since the 13th century. Its wonderfully atmospheric; youll find everything from
organic falafel to boars heads.
Brick Lane Market (Map p112; Brick Lane E1; hearly-2pm Sun; tLiverpool St) An East End pearler,
a sprawling bazaar featuring everything from fruit and vegies to paintings and bric-a-brac.
Brixton Market (Map pp96-7; Electric Ave & Granville Arcade; h10am-dusk Mon-Sat, to 1pm Wed; tBrixton)
Immortalised in the Eddie Grant song, Electric Ave is a cosmopolitan treat that mixes everything
from reggae music to exotic foods and spices.
Broadway Market (Map pp96-7; Broadway Mkt E8; h9am-5pm Sat; tBethnall Green) Graze from
the organic food stalls, choose a cooked meal and then sample one of the 200 beers on offer
at the neighbouring Dove Freehouse.
Camden Market (h10am-5.30pm; tCamden Town) Londons most famous market is actually
a series of markets spread along Camden High St and Chalk Farm Rd. Its been quieter since the
major fire in 2008, but the Lock (Map pp989) and Stables (Map pp989) markets are still the
place for punk fashion, cheap food, hippy shit and a whole lotta craziness.
Camden Passage Market (Map pp98-9; Camden Passage N1; h10am-2pm Wed, to 5pm Sat; tAngel)
Get your fill of antiques and trinkets galore. Not in Camden (despite the name).
Columbia Road Flower Market (Map p112; Columbia Rd; h8am-2pm Sun; tOld St) The best
place for East End barrow boy banter (We got flowers cheap enough for ya mother-in-laws
grave). Unmissable.
Greenwich Market (Map p111; College Approach SE10; h11am-7pm Wed, 10am-5pm Thu & Fri, 10am5.30pm Sat & Sun; DLR Cutty Sark) Rummage through antiques, vintage clothing and collectibles on
weekdays, arts and crafts on weekends, or just chow down in the food section.
Petticoat Lane Market (Map p112; Wentworth St & Middlesex St E1; h9am-2pm Sun-Fri; tAldgate) A
cherished East End institution overflowing with cheap consumer durables and jumble sale ware.
Portobello Road Market (Map pp100-1; Portobello Rd W10; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, closes 1pm Thu;
tLadbroke Grove) One of Londons most famous (and crowded) street markets. New and vintage
clothes are its main attraction, with antiques at its south end and food at the north.
Spitalfields Market (Map p112; 105a Commercial St E1; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sun; tLiverpool St) Housed in a Victorian warehouse but the markets been here since 1638. Thursdays are
devoted to antiques and Fridays to fashion and art, but Sundays the big day.
Sunday (Up)market (Map p112; The Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane E1; h10am-5pm Sun; tLiverpool
St) Handmade handbags, jewellery, new and vintage clothes and shoes, plus food if you need
refuelling.
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168 L O N D O N G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
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(Map p112; %7247 7924; 22 Hanbury St E1; tLiverpool St) Devoted entirely to ukule-
(Map p112; %7247 7924; 15 Lamb St E1; tLiverpool St) Purveyors of custom-
(Map pp108-9; %0844-855 2424; 188-196 Regent St W1; tOxford Circus) A seemingly end-
ever fancied pulling a rabbit out of hat, heres where youll find the hat.
(Map pp108-9; %7405 9891; 13-14 Portsmouth St WC2; tHolborn) Having been
constructed from recycled ship timber in 1567, this is Londons oldest shop building. It now
sells out-there handmade, high-fashion shoes.
Music
Nick Hornsbys book High Fidelity may have
done for London music-store workers what
Sweeney Todd did for barbers, but those obsessive types still lurk in wonderful independent stores all over London. If youd like to
purchase schmaltz without attitude, try the
giant Oxford St HMV (Map pp108-9; %7631 3423;
150 Oxford St W1; h9am-9pm; tOxford Circus), which
has many central branches.
For personality, visit the following:
BM Soho (Map pp108-9; %7437 0478; 25 DArblay St
W1; tOxford Circus) Your best bet for dance
if they havent got what youre after, theyll
know who has.
Minus Zero Records (Map pp100-1; %7229 5424;
2 Blenheim Cres W11; tLadbrooke Grove) The place for
collectables, like Bowie seven-inch singles.
Rays Jazz (Map pp108-9; %7437 5660; Foyles, 113119 Charing Cross Rd WC2; tTottenham Court Rd) Where
aficionados find those elusive back catalogues
from their favourite jazz and blues artists.
Rough Trade East (Map p112; %7392 7788; Dray Walk,
91 Brick Ln E1; tLiverpool St); West (Map pp100-1; %7229
8541; 130 Talbot Rd W11; tLadbroke Grove) At the fore-
Air
For information on flying to/from London
see p803.
Bus
Most long-distance coaches leave London
from Victoria Coach Station (Map pp102-3; %7824
0000; 164 Buckingham Palace Rd SW1; tVictoria), a
lovely art-deco building. The arrivals terminal is in a separate building across Elizabeth
St from the main coach station.
Car
See p807 for reservation numbers of the main
car-hire firms, all of which have airport and
various city locations.
Train
With the reopening of beautiful St Pancras
station, London is now only 2 hours by train
from Paris on the Eurostar (see p805). Its
vast vaulted concourse holds all the services
you might find in an airport terminal, along
with a giant statue of embracing lovers that
Londoners love to hate.
Londons main-line terminals are all linked
by the tube and each serve different destinations. Most stations now have left-luggage
facilities (around 4) and lockers, toilets (a
20p coin) with showers (around 3), news-
lonelyplanet.com
Glasgow.
GETTING AROUND
The Stansted Express (%0845 600 7245; www.stanstedexpress.com) connects with Liverpool St station
(one way/return 17/26, 46 minutes, departing
every 15 minutes 5.10am to 10.55pm, first/last
train 4.40am/11.25pm).
EasyBus (above) also has services between
Stansted, Baker St and Victoria (return from
13, allow 1 hours, every 30 minutes from
3am to 1.05am). The Airbus A6 (%0870 580 8080;
www.nationalexpress.com) links with Victoria coach
station (one way/return 10/16, allow 1
hours, departing at least every 30 minutes).
A black cab to/from central London costs
about 100, a minicab around 55.
LONDON CITY
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LUTON
Public Transport
Although locals love to complain about it,
Londons public transport is excellent, with
tubes, trains, buses and boats conspiring to
get you anywhere you need to go. Transport
for London (TFL; www.tfl.gov.uk) is the glue that
binds the network together. Its website has
a handy journey planner and information on
all services, including cabs. As a creature of
leisure, youll be able to avoid those bits that
Londoners hate (especially the sardine squash
of rush-hour tubes), so get yourself an Oyster
(above) and make the most of it.
LONDON UNDERGROUND, DLR &
OVERGROUND
lonelyplanet.com
TAXI
Car
Dont even think about it. Driving in London
is a nightmare: traffic is heavy, parking is
either impossible or expensive and wheelclampers keep busy. If you drive into central
London from 7am to 6pm on a weekday, youll
need to pay an 8 per day congestion charge
(visit www.tfl.gov.uk to register) or face a hefty
fine. If youre hiring a car to continue your
trip, take the tube to Heathrow and pick it
up from there.
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LONDON