“SEWING REFERENCE LIBRARY® . Sewin for Children MARION COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY SYSTEMContents eee ee a Bibs Kimonos Buntings Sening a Basic Layette .. 26 Recht Rimikets Hooded Towels 2 t Prosident/CLO: Dasid D. Musphy Viee Present /Ealtorial: Patricia K. Jacobsen Vice Prevent etal Sales & Meret Richard M. Miller Coperigheo 1999 Creative Publishing internat 100 Geen Oak Drive Minnevonka, Minnesota 55343, Leon 338.33) All vights reserved Printed in USA pal, Ine How to Use This Book . Growing Up .-.-.+.++ Wardrobe Planning ....40 Dresses i Adding Durability 42 Fleece 73 Adding Grow Room «44 Jumpers ss Shirts 45. Reversible Vest nish Pants & Skines 57 Bow Tie si Packers 62 Separating Zippers ....¥8 Books sable i Ui ‘ef the Home, Clething Cam Ran Sing for Na, Seng Spats, ng Met Seng fore He, Tasty JO Sa ‘Sticking. Cmte Seri is, Saving Lin Sea Pap ole Bo, Seng with Kas 2 ut Paps hy ei (hate Fashion Acs, Ou & Ey Sein Pr fe Smeal ection. Sasi fr Hadi Chik & Ean Dring Prope Quin rots afeles (Woes Dstt, Holiday Pater, Valo Costes, Uke Basie, abc Atay, Tw Nr Sung uth a Sere The Nee aig ly MachineGetting Started Choosing Children’s Elastic Clething 1 Kinng Selecting Patterns .....12 Equipment & Tools Taking Measurements 19 Notions, Selecting Fabries 14 Geiting Realy to Sew Decorative Trims 16 Hemis & Seas Personalizing ...sseseseeeeeeeesesesee 91 Bedroom Decorating . Adding « Personal Golor & Design Decorating the Creative Window Tovich 42 “Blocking iol Niney 9 Toppers Appliqnes 94 Piping 102 Wall Sculptures 0 Fabvie Paiuing & Patchwork Tiims «2.104 Printing ea SEWING FOR CHILDREN Sevine ff Alene Dohsina, Shon sts 8 Cass Day Riga Tn fed Weta Le eda Ech, Bend Haugh, eves er Die Carpradan,Bype Merchanue ies Suid Savies Newerrtecte Gatien CHAE Etieep does Tab nto ateeat Mion ‘Phat Sees Camtuaton Carel Onertur Prelaaneg, Palen Bios, ne Tator cone a Oe arar eee Ser Lea Patni Chuck Nike ines Kk Sew Panera Compaiy, The evocntty ge Sey en Phot McCall Fatiery Company; Minnexonka Sr ee, Desp Plng Sia ia THE Os Fiiitend Corpor ce Late Keene Rowenta Ines ew as Tovey tor Pedlshing ruc Menage Kin Gevter Sil Patera Compa, Toc The Prnuron Soy Pure Gan, Stager Connpaiy, Speed St Tac Stary Yatra Mottanen, Helga Thelen Insies,ne sareteh Sew, Ine exw Eaton Kane Perry Conuantekity Benton, Virgin Carney, _Sanfiue Indian, Ine Sues Metre Pogo Mogens Lannea Ceiienen, “fs Own Zoe Grant, ks Haste Ine; Vin Mx Ine; SRK Homme Seng fay cbs ‘Giro ones Jace Rania JoAnn Divsion Sieur ee nds Nesier itne Neon, Melanie Neat Sait, tr Derr: Scpaie Mid, Barbara Pale, Kathy Sandan (ike on Amr poet Delores seaman an Pa Succi RR. Denneley & Sons Co Pre 6 Pp Soph Joanne Wawra Cin ning Neonpdanee fe Sutera — gsn ee Lead Sanplmater isis Gabaith ‘Gn, Ine Butterick Company, Ines ClotildeHow to Use This Book Sewing for Children will help you sew customized, professional-quaity children’s garments and roora decor easily and quickly. Use this book to plan and sew attractive clothing and accessories for infant, toddlers, and schookage children, Garments should be comfortable, durable, and becoming to the child, Sewing for Children contains complete and detailed instructions for some projects; for others, it gives helpful hints and creative ideas. ‘Mos children’s clothing has less detail than adult clothing and can be sewn in a shorter period of tire. Many of the projects in this book are excellent starting points for the novice sewer or for someone who has. not sewn for a number of years. Experienced sewers will find helpful shortcuts and suggestions for pattern variations or adaptations, “To make the most efficient use of your time, become familiar with information in the Getting Started section of the book before you select a project. Learn about up-to-date equipment, notions, Fabrics, patterns, and styles. Sewing technique’ for the serger, or overlock ‘machine, are included where appropriate, When a senging method is shown, a conventional sewing machine method is also suggested. Directions for specific methods are given step-by-step, with close-up photographs for explicit detail. In some photographs, contrasting thread is used to highlight the sewing technique, but you will want to use matching, thread for your own projects, unless contrasting thread is desired for a decorative effect. Sewing for Children’s Changing Needs Making clothing for children is different from sewing for adults, Although children’s clothing requires Jess fitting, children grow quickly and have different clothing needs at different ages. Use the Infants section for planning and sewing a layette. You may also want to choose specific projecis, ranging trom receiving blankets and bibs to kimonos and buntings. ‘The Growing Up section of the book covers activewear for toddlers and children. Included are tips for adding durability and room for growth to garments you sew You will also find many creative ideas for making a garment special. ‘To get the most versatility and use from garments you sew for a child, follow the wardrobe planning tips to coordinate garments. As children begin dressing themselves and selecting their own clothes, they often express strong preferences; you ‘may want to involve the child in the planning when choosing colors, styles, and fabrics, Using Your Creativity Some of the ideas inthis book are as simple as using a unique notion or closure. In the Personalizing section, we have included several techniques for adding a personal touch to a garment by sewing achwork border, mixing fabrics creati using the artistic ideas of the child who will wear the garment. Many of these personalizing techniques are not limited to the garments that you sew, but can also be used to customize T-shirts and other purchased clothing. With the help of Sewing for Children, you can ‘sew more creatively by cusp children’s clothing. The Bedroom Decorating section af the book includes creative projects and ideas for sewing an entice crib ensemble, paced wall sculptures, and easy nnique window toppers. Choose fabrics in colors and patterns thai fill your child's bedroom with personality and cheerfulness. With your sewing ‘machine and a little ingenuity, you cin create designer bedroom decor ata bargain priceGetting StartedChoosing Children’s Clothing Sewing children’s clothes can be quite economical and need not be time-consuming. Because children’s garments require less fabric than garments for adults, the fabric cost is usually minimal. You may be able to use fabric from other sewing projects to construct a garment, or part of a garment, for a young child. Most children’s clothing designs follow simple lines, have few pieces, and are easy to sew. They are x good starting point for a beginning sewer or for a sewer ‘whose skills need updating. Planning for Safety Build safety into children's garments. Avoid loose surings or excess fabric that may get tangled, especially for infants. Beware of long skirts or gowns that may cause a child to trip, or very full sleeves that may catch esos ini bok deren short lengths, and securely fasten buttons and trims. Use fire-retardant fabrics for sleepwear. Customizing Clothes for Children Creative touches can make a garment special to a child. ‘Use a child's crayon drawing as 2 guide to colors and shapes for a machine-embroidered design. Or let children color or paint fabric before you cut out the pattern. Some children may enjoy designing their ‘Tips for Plannin 10 Garments for Growth and Comfort clothes by drawing the garment they would like and then having you match the color and general style. Simple, original appliqués can reflect a favorite hobby or special toy Aol the child in seleting patterns, abrcs, aed notions. For young children learning to identify colors, primary colors of red, yellow, and blue are popular. Look at colors of a favorite toy and the colors a child often chooses for painting or drawing, Consider the coloring of the child’ hair, eyes, and skin; select colors that compliment them. Features for Self-dressing Thencourage velf-ressing, choose garments with loose- fitting necklines and saistlines and with manageable fasteners, Make closures easy to see and reach on the front or side of a garment. Hock and loop tape can be ‘used for closures on most types of garments. Young children can easily unfasten simple, large, round buttons and snaps, but may have difficulty closing ther with small hands, They also enjoy smooth- running zippers with large teeth and zipper pulls. Pull-on pants that have elastic waists are easier for young children to pull on and off. Children can be frustrated by trying to fasten hooks and eyes, tiny Dbuwons, and tiesSelecting Patterns All children are comfortable in loose-fitting garments, bbut their clothing requirements change as they grow. For infants, select one-pieve garments, such as kimonos, that make it easy o dress the baby and change the diapers. Toddlers are also comfortable in one-piece sarments, such as overalls, with a crotch opening, ‘Two-piece styles with clastic waistbands are easy to » and off and are practical for children who are being toile-trained. Adjustable shoulder straps and) straps that crisscross at the back, as well as elastic waistbands, help keep pants and skirts in place. Look for basic, versatile styles. Coordinated pants, shirts, skirts, jickers, overalls, and sweatsuits can be worn year-round. Except for skirts, these garments can be worn by both boys and girls. Use a basic pattern to plana mix-and-maich wardrobe. Goordinete fabries and notions, and save time by sewsing several garments, using the same pattern Selecting a Pattern Size Buy patterns according to the child's measurements, wot the child's age or ready-to-wear size. Compare the chile’s measurements with the chart on the pattern orin a pattern catalog. Most pattern measurement charts are standardized: however, the fit of similar garments may vary, even though the same size patiera is used. The style of the garment, whether itis loose fitting or eose-fiting, and the amount of ease added for movement and comfort affect the fit Adjusting Pattern Length and Width Lengthen (a) oF shorten (b) pattern at adjustment lives. Spread or lap pattern pieces to desired adjustment; tape. preserving grainline, Blend the cutting and stitching lines. 12 You may want 10 compare the pattern with a well- fitting garment to check the fit of the garment you intend to make. Ifthe child is between two sizes, buy the larger size pattern. Multi-sired patterns can be used for several sizes. To preserve the original pattern, ace each size as iris used. To reflect the changing shape of growing bodies, pattern sizes for different ages use different body measurements. Infants’ patterns give the baby’s length and weight. Toddlers’ patterns give chest, waist, and approximate height measurements. The Toddlers’ hecare shorter tn length than Children’ sizes and have extra room for diapers. Children's sizes give measurements for chest, waist, hip, and approximate height. Up to size 6, Children’s patterns generally increase one size for each additional inch (2.5 em) around the body. Fitting Most children’s garments require minimal fitting. Even if some of the child's measurements differ slightly from those on the pattern, you may not need to make adjustments. For example, a garment with clastic at the waist may not need a waistline adjustment. Determine adjustments before cutting the fabric. Make the same amount of adjustment to adjoining pattern pieces, and preserve the grainline on the adjusted pattern, You can make some adjustments 2s you sew by using wider or narrower seam allowances. Increase (a) or decrease (b) width up to 4" (5 mm) con each side sear allawance for total adjustment up to 1" 2.5 cm), To increase or decrease width more than 1” (2.5 crn), use different pattern size, On bodices, you will need ro adjust ease in sleeve to fit new armhole size.Taking Measurements Totake a chil tape measure or brightly colored nonstrerch ribbon held snugly, but not tightly. The child should wear underwear or diapers and stand in a natural position. For a very young oractive child, you can measure a garment that fits well and compare it with the garment size on the jern envelope. You will not need easements every time you Sew Head. Measure around the fullest part of the head. This measurement is important for garments without neckline plackets Chest. Measure around the fullest part of the chest, just over the shoulder blades, Waist. Toddlers often do not have a distinct waistline. To devermine the natural waistline, te a string around the midsection; have the chile move and bend. The string will fall into place; measure over the string. Hips. Measure around the fullest part of the hips Back waist length. Measure from the prominent bone at the neck to the navural waistline; you eam loeate the neckbone when the cbild’s head is bent forward Arm-across-back length. With the child's arm extended straight ou at the side, measure from the wrist across the shoulder to the middle of the neck. Place the sleeve pattern next to the garment back pattern overlapping seam allowances; measuire pattern from wrist to center back, You can now compare the body measurement with the pattern measurement. Croteh depth. Tic a string around he waist. Have the child sit ona chair; measure at the side from the waist Wo the seat of the c Finished dress or skirt length. Measure from a string at the waist to the desired hem length Finished pants length, Measure from a string ac the waist o the anklebone.Selecting se Y Fabrics ihe - J ey Children’s everyday garments need to withstand tear of active play and numerous Iaunderings. For these clozhes, select durable, comfortable, e2s)- he wear and care fabrics, For speciaboccasion clothing, use washable velvereens and taffetas or fine-wale corduroys Nota fibers are $08 and non abrasive, They afer breathablg lacking i pure synthotic; bat care. Synthetic fibe pac ‘has Sarl and polyester, ave eay-care Ta ie ate cr amor moistae, They stain easy nel with repeated lannderings they eventually pill, yellow, and lose their softness. Blends of natur and synthetie fibers combine the best properties of each to produce soft, absorbent, wrinklefree fabries,Fabric Types Wien fatnics that are lightweight are suitable for blouses, shirts, dresses, and skirts, Firmly woven, fabries are most durable: choose ‘dem for pants, shirts, and jackets, Woven fabrics best suited for sening children’s clothing are batiste, broadcloth, chambray, chino, denim, dotied Swiss, duck, gingham, madras, organdy, polvester taffeta, poplin, saileloth, Seersucker, shirting, twill, and voile, Knut fabrics are a good choice, because children are active and nits give as the body moves, When selecting knits, check the stretch, of the fabric with the gauge on the paitern envelope. Knit fabrics include: cotton spandex, double Init, mterlock, jerse) sweatshirt . fleece, and thermal knit - a Fabrics with nap have a surface z texture that feels soft or brushed, and may be either woven or knit. These fabrics include: brushed denim, corduroy, flannel, French terry, synthetic fleece, pique, sretch terry, terry cloth, velveteen, and velour Fabries for children’s clothing 5 include: broadelath in solid colors d or sina prints (1), clenim (2), velour (3), corduroy (4), terry cloth ££ 6) imerlock 6), jersey 7), dowed Swiss (8), and synthetic fleece (9). éDecorative Trims Decorative trims for garments and roam accessories are available for purchase by the ard (meter) or or accessories. Thin piping, in solid colors or stripes, garment seams, Thi and suppor pads or pillo ors, is topstitehed ¢ iccovered sams of room Rick rack, the ‘center or stitehed in Elastic Blasties vary in stretch and recovery characteristics, Took for elastics that retain their original width when stretched and that recover to their original length when applied to a garment. Those made from cotton and rubber are the most durable Knitted (1) and woven (2) elastics are most appropri ate for stitching directly to the garment. Braided (8) and nonroll (4) elastic are suitable for casings. Trans parent (6) elas comfortabl blends with 10 the skin,Ribbing The stretch and recovery of ribbing varies widely The siretch is acceptable ifa 4” (0 crn) piece stretches fully wo about 7" (18 cm). The finished width of ribbing is in proportion to the garment edge and size. Gut the ribbing twice the finished width plus 4" (1.3 em) for two V4 (6 mm) scam allowances. Trim the garment seam allowances to 44" (6 mm) on edges where ribbing will be applied Use the method below to cut ribbing to fit the edge ofthe garment, Or, for a closer fit at wrist, waistline, and pants leg, cut the ribbing (o fit the body, It may then be necessary 1o gather the garment edige to fit the ribbing. Tubular ribbing is 18” to 22” (46 to 56 cm) wide and is sold by the inch (2.9 cin), [tis available in two weights. The lighter weight is suitable for use on T-shirt aut, syeatshitt fleece, velours, and lightweight woven fabrics. The heavier weight is used for outerwear or heavyweight fabrics, Do not preshrink ribbing: this ibbing and makes accurate layout and cutting Guide to Cut Width of Ribbings (includes seam allowances) Garment Edge Infants’ Children's Short eee F Gem) we Standaid crewneck 2 6.5am) a5) Narrow crew neck Gan Prefinished collar 2 Gem) Waist wrists, panes legs lose) Tocket PGem) How to Measure and Cut Ribbing 1) Measure pattern edge where ribbing is to be applied, standing tape measure on edge at seamiine. For neck and waist edges, double chis measurement 2) Gut ribbing two-thirds the measnred length of seamline and twice desired finished width; add (13 em) to length and width for seam allowaneEquipment & Tools A conventional sewing machine with basic utility stitches works well for sewing children’s clothing, although a machine with embroidery capabilicies can be helpful for adding embellishments. For small, hard-to-reach areas, such as knees and elbows, a free arm sewing machine is useful, A serger does not replace @ conventional machine, buc it can cut sewing time considerublys it sews a seam al the same time it finishes and aims the edges, Sergers can also be sert to stitch hems often used in ready-to-wear clothes, Ballpoint ncedies (L) are used for sewing knits. versal poitit needles (2) are designed to be used with knits or woven fabrics, Twin needles (8) work well for reinforcement stitehes as well us heros. Metalfil? needles (4) are designed for machine embroidery A general purpose presser foot (8) is used for most steps of the construction process, inicluding straight! stitching and zigeagging. A special-purpose foot (6), for embroidery foot is useil for sewing repetitive satin stitch designs, The wide groove on the underside ol the foot allows it to ride smoothly over the raised stitches. A ripper foot (7) is necessary for stitching close to the sipper teeth; iLis also helpful for sewing, Seams that are accented! with pipitig, or fabricoovered, cording, A bodlkin (8) is a long metal or plastic tool thar is handy Lor threading elsstic, ribbon, or cord tlc a casing, \ rotary citter 9} and cutting mat (10) are handy for eittings out garments. The eutter iy avail- able in two sizes ind comes with a retractable blade for salery. ‘There is also a rotary cutter with a wave blude (11), for cutting decorative edges. Specialty snap fastening tools (12) make quick work of apphing gripper snaps,lotions You may want to stockpile assorted notios easy to vary garments made from a single pattern. Glosures on children’s garments may be decorative as well as functional. Snaps come in a variety of weights and colors. Novelty buttons add a special detail, but small or shaped buctons can make it difficult for young children to dress themselves. Hook and loop tape is an easier fastener for children to manage. to make it Zippers may also be decorative, especially when used in contrasting colors. Zippers with fine coils are available for use on small garments, ie Zipper pulls, is available ix 6.05 m) or by the inch (2.5 am), It allows you to make zippers of any length and climinates the need for keeping various sizes of zippers on hand. Dye the zipper and zipper pull 1o maich garments or to ‘oordinate with chem. ~ Hardware such as D-rings, snap hooks, plastic sliders, and overall buckles can be used for suspenders, belts, cdjustable straps. Tapes and trims include ribbons, bias and sill tapes, piping, and braid. Reflective tape can be applied as a safety measure to clothing worn ‘outdoors after dark. Appliqués add a custom look sianGetting Ready to Sew I is important to preshrink washable fabries, trims, and notions before laying out patterns. Preshrinking prevents the garment from shrinking, and seams and trims from puckering. [also removes excess dye andl chemical finishes. Do not preshrink ribbing: thi distorts the ribbing and makes accurate Tayou and cutting difficult. Preshrink and dry washable fabrics as recommended 2 the fabric care instructions. After preshrinking 100 percent corcon fabrics, iis important ro kaunder them several times before cutting, because cotton fabries continue to shrink during the first several launderings. Preshrink dark and vivid cottons separately, until colors are stabilized. To preshrink fabrics that require drycleaning, steam then evenly with a steam izon and allow them to dry thoroughly ona smooth, flat surface. ‘Tips for Laying Out Plaid Fabrics ach piece in a single layer, beginning with front pattern piece Use dominant part of design (a) for front and center back. Match notches at side seams (6) of front and back, 20 Center sleeve at same dominant part of design us center front. The design should match at the notches (arrows) of the sleeve front and armhole of garment front; noiches at back may not mate! Some knits, especially lightweight cotton knits, ‘curl and ripple after preshrinking, Remove wrinkles from the fabric before laying out the pattern sure the lengthwise grain is straight. Press pieces with a warm, dry iron, Plaid, striped, and checked fabrics add variety to children’s garments. When using one of these fabries, select a pattern with few pieces to make it easier to match the design. Stand back znd look 1 the fabric to determine the dominant part of dhe desi easiest way to cut these fabrics is as a single laver. Cut out each pattern piece from the fabric, and turn the cut fabric piece over to use as a pattern so the design fon the second piece will mateh the first piece Position pockets, cufls, yokes, and separate front bands on true bias to avoid time-consuming matching. Centera dominant design block in cach pattern piece.Tips for Layout, Cutting, and Marking Refer to pattern layout diagram on guideshees, Position patrern pieces, following grainline arrows and nap direction. Use weights to hold the pattern in place Lay out all pattern pieces on napped fabric with upper edge of pattern pieces toward same end of fabric. Corduroy and other nupped fabrics wear betier if sewn with the nap. Use sharp shears and long strokes for smooth cutting. Do not trim excess pattern tissue before cutt fabric unless entting thick fabrics such as corduroy and quilted fabric running down garment, Use rotary cutter with protective mat, shifting mat to cut other pieces. Use metal-edged ruler for straight edges, placing blade side of rotary cutter next to ruler; rim off notches. Small rotary cutter may be used for ight curves or complex shapes, Transfer all pattern markings after cutting. Make short dip no more than ¥4" (3 mm) into seam allowance to mark notches, dots, center front, center back, and ends of darts and pleats. To mark pockets, pin through pattern and fabric, lift pattern, and mark each fabric Jayer with chalk or washable marking pen. aHems & Seams Topstitehed hems and seams can be decorative as well Select seams and seam finishes based on the type of as fictional, Use a marching or contrasting color Tabric, Also consider if the seam will show through thread that coordinates with other items of clothing, the garment, if strength is required at the seam, and if the seam will be comfortable when it is next Machine stitched hems are fast and durable, and are a good alternative for ribbing at cuffs, waistlines, and pants legs on children’s clothing, lo the shin Hems. Topstiiched hem (1) has one or more rows hem (4), tim hem allowance to 14" (1.3 em); press of topstitching near upper edge ofa finisher! hem to wrong side, Open hem, and fold raw edge allowance. Blindstitch (2) by machine for a hem that hemline crease, Fold again to make double-fald hem; is nearly invisible from the right side. The cover stitelt opstitch one or wo rows as desired. Use a rolled hem (8), available on some sergers, is a popular hem on (), senn on a serger, for lightweight or sheer fabrics. ready-to-wear clothes, Stitch from the right side or Stitch with right side up; fabric rolls under to the the wrong side, depending on the look preferred wrong side, A'nwin-needle topstitched hem (6) is Stitch about 4” (6 mia) below cut edge of hem, suitable for knits, because the bobbin thread zigzags allowance and trim close to stitching. For a narrow fn the wrong side and allows stitches ta stretch. ad seam finishes. For plain scams, press to use on curves. For 14” (6 mm) seam allowances on open %° (1.5 cm) seam allowances. Finish edges stretch fabrics, use an overedge stizeh (4) or a narrow with overlock stitching (1) sewn on a serger, or with Ziguag, stitch (8) steich seams slightly while stitching a three-step zigaay (2), A French seam (3) is neat and Press narrow seams to one side. inconspicuous from the right side, but itis difficult 22Reinforced seams. Understitehed seam (L) stabilizes the seam by stitching seam allowances to the facing. vances presse ind topstitched to garment, Mock flatell seam (8) has exposed seatn allowances on the wrong side nt with topstitching and ¢ iiching (4) is stitching se stitching. Edgestitching (5) is stitching sew right side of the garment, through both seam. illowances, as close to the seamline as possible Overlock seams. 3-thread stitch (1) stretches with the fabrie and can be used asa seam or edge finish, but, itis not recommended for woven fabries in areas 0 stress. 4 thread safety stitch (2) is strong and stable for woven fabries, but it does not stretch on knit seams, 4-thread mock safety stitch (3) provides an additional line of stitching, has stretch, and can be used on knit fabricsInfantsSewing a Basic Layette Many of the items in a basic layette, such as receiving bibs, kimonos, and buntings, are easy and practical to sew, Multi-sized layettc patterns are available for making most of these items. For everyday ‘wear, use simple, loose-fittin designs and high-quality Cotton or cotton-blend fabrics are good choices because cotton breathes, absorbs moisture, and is easy to launder. Infants are most comfortable in soft fabrics. Stretch knits adapt well to movement, growth, and easy dressing, Woven fabrics such as flannel, scersucker, and broadeloch work well with the addition of ribbing at the neck, sleeves, and hem. Federal regulations require that garments designed for children’s sleepwear meet flame-retardancy standards, Look for this information on the ends of fabric bolts. Cotton must be blended with synthetic fibers to accept this treatment. If you select basic styles, you can use timesaving techniques that allow you to sew several garments in ashorttime. By choosing high-quality fabrics, youcan sew garments superior to the average ready-t0- wear items, and often at x more reasonable cos. Receiving blankets and hooded towels are important to alayetie. Several blankets or towels can be made ut a lime. Hooded towels cam also be used as beach towels. Bibs can easily be made by sewing ribbing and a neck closure to a hand towel, Older infants and toddlers enjoy large bibs with sleeves and pockets, which you can coordinate with several garments Kimonos of soft flannel or knits are comfortable for an infant during the first several months, and the open lower edge of the kimono allows for easy diapering. If the neck and armhole openings are large enough, the garment can also be used asa dress or T-shirt in later months. Buntings, adaptations of the kimono, are closed at the lower edge for outerwear use and are often made of quilted fabrics, double-faced polyester bunting, or other soft, heavyweight fabrics Infant Accessories Patterns are available for infant seat covers, pillows, diaper stackers, high chair pads, and other accessories. Al of these cant be customized by using coordinating colors, extra padding, warm fabries, ruffles, and piping. Patterns may need to be adapted to the specific needs of the equipment; for example, tie and strap locations may need 10 be adjustedReceiving Blankets & Hooded Towels 01.5 em) square blanket or 0 60” (115 oF knit fabric thermal knit of li1 Finish Edges with a Mock Binding 1) Use overedge stitch or serge 2) Fold 1" (2.5 cm) of binding binding to right side of Fabric, to insides lap around first end of starting 114" (3.8 cm) from end of binding. Continue stitching binding Dinding. Stitch to within 2” (5 cm) to fabric, stitching over previous of start of binding, streiching fabrie stisches for 1" (2.5 em) to secure slightly at corners; do not stretch the ends binding. (If flatlock stitch on serg. 5 used, stitch wrong sides together.) 3) Turn seam allowance toward blanket or towel; topsttch through all layers of overedged (a) or serged () scam, to hold seam allowances flat. If flatiock (e) stitch is used, pull ninding and fabrie fla How to Sew a Hooded Towel 2) Position wrong side of the hood to right side o hing or contrasting fabric. Round right he towel. Stitch triangle to one rounded corner of angle corner, and finish diagonal edge with mock cose, Ys" (6 mm) from matched edges. Finish outside binding, above edges, aboveBibs Infant bibs are quick and easy to make, Create durable bibs from terry cloth or knit fabric or from fingertip towels, and customize the bibs with simple appliqué techniques and bias tape. Increase absorbency by using a double layer of fabric. Back a fabric bib with soft, pliable plastic to protect clothing; finish edges with wide double-fold bias tape. Or use a fingertip wovel with prefinished edges, Custom Bibs Attach a Loy or pacifier to a bib with 2 snap-on strip (A) Stitch together the edges of a 12" (30.5 cm) strip Of wide double-fold bias tape, and fold under the ends of the strip. Attach one end to the bib with the ball half of gripper snap. Attach the socket half of the gripper snap to the other end of the tape. Slip th Loy or pacifier onto the tape; snap securely to the bib. A purchased squeaker can be inserted between the appliqué and bib (2) before you stitch the applique «page 95) A fingertip towel makes an absorbent, washable bib. Fold the towel for double absorbency under the chin (8), and attach double-fold bias tape around the neck edge, How to Make a Pullover Bib 1) Use fingertip towel. Gut 5 (12.5 em) cirele with center of circle one-third the distance from. 2) Fold ribbing in halE, with wroog sides together, Divide ribbing and neck edge into fourths; pin-mark 8) Fold seam allowance toward bil Edgestiteh to bib through all layers. ‘one end of towel. Cut 3” (7.5 cm) wide ribbing, with length two- thirds the circumference. Stitch short ends to form circle, using 4" (6mm) seam allowance, 30 Matching pins, and with seam at center back, pin ribbing to neck edge, with raw edges even. Stitch ¥4" (6 mm) seam, stretching ribbing to fit neckline.Ce oa Pee , Cad i “Pac wer aa ‘eee ane iictdetidiett Me ee eee Ce ihe How to Make a Tie-on Bibfan's head, Openit do not need to be as large, bi stretch to fit over the head aulse knits will se the flat method of construction to sew infamsize sgunments; complete as much stitching as possible while the garment is flat, Access 10 parts of tin Decomes difficult once seatns are compl all ribbing while oue seam is snill oper ec. ApplyHow to Sew a Kimono with Ribbing (flat method) 1) Measure snd cu ribbing for 2) Divide ribbing and neck edge neck, wrists, and lower-edge (page into fous ths, pinemark, Pin the 17); fold in half lengchwise, Straight- ribbing and the neck edge together ally match ribbing edge aid such or serge garment front and at marks and ends. Overedge stitch ribbing seam. Finish the seam hack together al one shoulder seam, or serge 4” (6 mm) seam, stretching allowances, if necessary. right sides together ribbing to fit neck edge as you sen, 3) Straight-stitch o1 serge other shoulder sean, right sides togethers 4 Divide ribbing anu wristedge 5) Straight-stitch or serge one 6) Divide ribbing andl lower edge: in half; pin-mark. Pins atid stich as underarm seam, with rightsides pin and stitch as in step 2, above in step 2, above: ‘ogether; carefully snatch ribbing Sticeh remaining underarm seam edge und ribbing seam. Finish seam asin step 3, lelt, Finish sea allowances, iP necessary allowances, if necessary,Customizing Kimonos To add a placket, sash the front of the kimono and the center front for a4” (2 cm) finished placket apply a continuous self-binding, Position the opening width, Cuta binding strip 12° x2” (30.5 x 5 em) on off-center so fasteners line up on the center Front. the lengthwise grain, Press the binding strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Open the strip, Fora boy’s garment, mark the placket opening to the and press tnder /” (6 mm) on one long edge. right of center to laplefi over right. For a girls garment, ‘mark the placket opening to the left of center to lap For'a kimono pattern without a cuff, add sleeve mitts right over left. The photos that follow are for a git! tobe folded over the baby’s hands, Finish the kimono kimono, Mark a 6” (15 em) opening %" (1 cm) from with a mandarin collar and gripper snaps. ‘How to Apply a Contimous Self-bound Placket, 1) Mark the placket opening, and _2) Hold placket opening straight; cut binding, above, Staystitch “.” pin to unpressed edge of binding, (6 mm) from matked line, tapering right sides together. Stitch over __ together; pin. For underlap, place toa point. Shorien stitches for 14". staysutching with %° (6 mm) seam —_pressed edge on seamline rigit sides (1.3 Gm) on each side of point, and allowance on binding; raw edges __together; pin. Stitch overlap and {ake one short stitch at point. Slash match only at searn ends. Add dleeve _underlap at neckline along line to, but not through, point, mitts, opposite. Sitch shoulder seams, Add collar, opposite. ii a é E 4) Fold the binding to inside of the 5) Pin overlap binding flat to inside 6) Topstiteh through garment and garment, with fold on theseamfine. of garment. Mark topstitching line binding, beginning at loner end of Edgestitch binding over previous on front side of overlap near the overlap (arrow); pivot at marked stitching; stitch to within 1" @.5cm) inside fold. line, and stitch to neckline. Pivot of neckline. edgestitch arruind neckline through the garment and seam allowances, stretching slightly. Apply gripper snap at top of placket.How to Attach a Mandarin Collar ee 1) Cut ribbing for collar 2” (5 em} wide and 2" (5 em shorter than neck opening. Fold in tulf lengehvise Mark center back. Apply placket as in steps | and 2 opposite. Fold front, marching shoulder seams; pin halfway between placket seams (arrows) to mark adjusted center fronts, How to Add Sleeve Mitts 2) Pin collar to neck edge at center back, with righ sides together and raw edges even, Place pin on folded edge of collar %4" (6 mm) from each short end. Match pins to center fronts; pin securely. Stitch collar to neck edge, stretching collar to fit, Trim collar to match neck edge. Complete placket, steps 3 ta 8, opposite 1) Cut ribbing for sleeve mitt 6° (15 era) long ot lengthwise grain and 1” (2.5 cm) wider than width of sleeve. Fold ribbing in half crosswise to 3" (7.5 em), and lay under end of sleeve. Tin to match shape of sleeve Stitch folded ribbing to wrong side of sleeve back at lower edge, using !A" (6 mm) sean and matching raw edges. Turn mitt to right side 3) Turn back hem allowance of sleeve front, encasing seam allowances. (Do not urn garment right side out.) Topstitch hem, stitching through slecve back and mitt; use twin needle, if desired 2) Pin kimono front to back at shoulder and underarr seams, right sides together, Fold hem allowance of sleeve front over finished sleeve back. Stitch shoulder and underarm seams, One-piece sleeve. Fold ribbing asin step 1, above, Cut ‘mitt one-half the width of sleeve plus 4" (6 mm Stitch 2" (6 mm) seam in one short end; turn seam to inside. Lay mitt on tight side of back of sleeve, with -am at center; edgestitch short end at center. Stitch underarm seam. Tarn hem allowance to wrong side. Topstitch hem as in step 3, left.Buntings Patierns are an with ull the features of cad ytonvear, a s ather use or simple ribbed © nme styles have a gusset st splitleg styling for suse most buntit made of knit labries oF synthetic fleece, the most difficult part of the bunting construction is inserting the ripper. However able renient iron-on tearawaly stabilizer, makes zipper ition easy. Purchase an 18" or 20" (46 of BL em) zipper, or cut the gih from continuous zipper eail (page 19) \How to Inserta Zipper in a Bunting 1) Mark line for zipper opening at center front from neck edge to zipper stop, Draw stitching hiox across lower end of line and A” (6 mm) on each side of line, Cut iron-on iearsaway stabilizer 3° (7 and 2” (5 cm) longer than cipper opening; iron onto ‘wrong side of fabric under line for opening, em) wide 2) Staystitch across bottom line of stitching box. pivot at corner, and stitch to neck edge 4" (6 mm) from marked line, using about 15 stitches per inch (25 cm), Repeat on other side of line, beginning at bottom ine of stitching, box 8) Slash center line carefully 10 Ya" (6 mm) from bouom line: clip diagonally to, but not through, the 4) Place one edge of ripper along edge of opening, right sides iogether with zipper stop at bottom line stitching box. With germent vide up stitch over previous stitching from zipper stop to neck edge, using zipper foot Repeat for ether edge stitching from bottom to top. 5) Fold lower part of garment and stabilizer back at bortem of zipper ‘exposing the triangle of the stite box and the end of the zipper tape Double-stitch across triangle on the stuystitching to secure triangl zipper. Remove stabilizer ig| Growing UWardrobe Planning Plan a child's wardrobe before you begin to sew Ifthe garments you sew are coordinated, they are ‘more versatile and will have a different look with each ensemble. The child can easily sclect garments to wear together. Planning a wardrobe does not mean, however, that all garments must be made at one time Begin wardrobe planning by considering colors, Notice which colors are in style in ready-to-wear garments, and which colors the child likes. Many garments and colors are suitable for either sex, so large portions of a wardrobe can be used by boys and girls. Decide which colors will be central to the wardrobe, For basic wardrobe items, select colors and fabrics that can be worn year-round. Take swatches of fabrics with you when you shop. Garments for children do not take large amounts of fabric, o stockpile remnants in the wardrobe colors. You may want to purchase tims in coordinacing colors for Future use. Wardrobe Basics The core garments of a child's wardrobe include shirts, pants, overalls, a jacket, and for girls, a skirt and jumper. For sewing these core items, you may ‘want to selec: a simple pattern that contains directions for sewing several garments, and vary the fabrics, twims, and finishes. You can use one basic pants pattern for sweatpants, jeans with rolled cuffs, shorts, and pants with a mock fly. From a T-shirt patiern, you can make a shirt with a mughy placket and a pullover shirt with a kangen pocket. From one skirt pattern, make a skirt with mock fly and another with a ribbing waistband. A simple yoked dress can be a school divess or 2 party dress, depending on the fabric Personalizing To personalize simple pattern shapes, use coordinating fabrics for color blocking. Mix woven fabrics with knits Sew the body of a shirt with a neck placket from ‘woven fabric, and the sleeves from 2 knit, Use f to highlight the neckline, armholes, side seam pocket seams, Repeat trims, such as appliqués or buttons on shirts, 0 coordinate with pants or skirts, 40Adding Durability Build in durability as you construc children’s garments, Seams and knees are subject to the most stress during dressing and active play, but both are hhened ‘most vulnerable at the crotch, shoulder, neck, and arm- hole, Strengthen the crotch and itched, neckline seams with de twin-needle topstitchin, before cro: Machinestitch hems for added strength in activewear (page 2: The knee area wears out fas any other part of a child's garmem and is difficult to reach for repairs. Flat construction techniques allow you to reinforce knee areas as you construct the garment Patches as quilt patches for extra durability and protection at the knee, especially ing toddlers Fuse the patch to the garment to make the application easier ard to strengthen the patch. Decorative knee patches are cut according to the child’s size. Fe infants, cut the patch 319" x 4" (9 x 10 cm); for todkllers, 394” x 5 (9.3 x 12.5 em); for children, 412 x6" (115% 15 em), il the corners of decorative eS to simplify application and to eliminate sharp corners that could catch and tesHow to Add Decorative Knee Patches 1) Cut wo patches 10 size (opposite); 2) Press strips in half lengthwise, 3) Curve ends of piping into seam round corners. Iron paperbacked wrong sides together. Stitch to right allowance, so folded ends overlap fusible web to back of patches. Cut side of each patch, raw edges even, _and taper to raw edge. Irim piping uso strips of fabric for piping 1” with ¥4"(G mm) seam allowance, "even with raw edge of patch, x24" (2.5 x 61 em); cut on bias for woxen fabries or crosswise grain for knits, ms = 4) Trim searn allowance to %" 5) Fuse one patch to front of pants. 6) Stitch patch to garment, sticching (S mm). Press seam allowance to. __leg, parallel to hemline with center_in the ditch. Finish pants according wrong side of patch, pulling piping of patch slightly below center of _to pattern directions. ‘out from patch, Remove paper knee. On the other pants leg, align backing from fusible web. second patch with first; fuseAdding Grow Room dh spurt may ar a garment that dition acid gre bias; add interes or stripe. Wher rap ‘overall buckles for sngth adjustmentShirts Fora versatile shirt pattern, choose a loose-fitting basic T-shirt style with sing one pattern, you can make several shirts by varying the des n different neck, cuff, and hem finishes Fabric choives also adel Most loose-fitting T-shirt patt and wovens for wartn weather: Swe arm shirt for cooler ns, Do as much stitching as pos Pockets and appliqués apply before any seams are stitched, The flat of ribbing application (page 38) is easier on Toddlers es, which have small neck and arm openi tubular ribbing application ( may be preferred for Children’s sizes s, cuffs, and waisthands are sold arately or in sets, They have a prefinished outer edge for a ready-to-wear look and are available in solid colors or in a variety of stripes and edge finishes. jars, cuffs, and Waistbands should be 1.5 cm) smaller than the opening. If an appropriate child's size is unavailable, trim an adult size 10 fit. Use a prefinished collar for a’T-shirt or for pirt with a convertible collar. Use prefinished cuffs to finish a ribbed-top pocketHow to Apply Prefinished Collar, 1) Trim short ends so collar, cuts, and waistband are Ito 3" (2.5t0 bar tack by sigragg’ 75 em) shorter than garment edge; cn collars, trim an equal amount from each end. Trim the width, it Gesited. Apply liquid fray preverner toshort ends of collar Ye" (6 mm) scam. How to Apply a Prefinished Collar and Ribbing 1) Trim prefinished collar, if necessary, as in step 1, above. Butt ends, and join with bar tack by rigzagging in place just inside neck seamline, Cut ribbing for wrrow crew neck (page 17). Join ends, using ¥/ (G mm) seam; fold in half lengthivise, wrong sides together, Divide collar, ribbing, and neck edge into fourths; pin-mark. 2) Burt collar ends, and join with inside neck seamline. Join shor ends of cuff and waistband, ffs, and Waistband 3) Divide collar, waistband, and garment edges into fourths; divide cuffs and slee ends at center front, cuff seams at sleeve seams, and waistband seam at side seam. Attach as for steps 2 and 3, page 48 in place just sin half, Place collar sing ibbing 2) Pin ribbing to right side of garment at neck edge i pin marks matching and raw edges even; position ribbing seam at back seam of raglan sleeve, at shoulder seam, or at center back. Pin collar over ribbing, wit raw eciges even. Place collar ends at center front. Stitch, stretching ribbing and collar to fit neck ed asin step 3, page 48,Se) ad 2) Position ribbing seam at cener back or shoulder seam; pin ribbing to right side of garment, with raw edges even, matching pins. 1) Cutribbing two-thirds the length of neck opening: cut the width for ribbing ends with %" (6 mm) sear Fold the ribbing in half lengthwise Divide ribbing and garment edges ark into fourths; pin 48 standard crew neck (page 17). oin Ribbed Edges Ribbing makes an attractive finish for necklines, cufls, or waistines on cither knit or woven fabric. When using ribbing to finish a shirt made from woven fabric, check the size of the neck opening on the pattern to be sure the garment will fi over the child’s head. Neck openings should be 1” to 2” (2.5 to 5 cm) larger than the chik’s head. Tt may be necessary to enlarge the opening or use a larger size pattern. Ribhing docs not have a right ora ‘wrong side, so it can be folded with either side up. It can be applied using the flat method (paze 39) or the tubular method, below. You ceap use the tubular method with large openings to produce a neater finish, because the seam that joins the ribbing into a circle is enclosed Place the ribbing scam where it wil be least visile. For a double ribbing neck finish, combine two ribbings of diff ‘widths. Fora lapped ribbing, cat standard crew neck width, and lap the ends instead of joining them into a circle at Lettuce edging can be used 1o finish the edge of the ribbing or knit fabric for a feminine look. Match the color of the thread to the fabric, or use a coordinating color thread, 9) Serge or use an overedge stitch (page 22) co apply ribbing to the garment, using Ys" (6 mun) seam: ribbing is on top and raw edges are even, Stretch ribbing between pins to fit garmentHow to Apply Double Ribbing 1) Cutewo pieces of ribbing two- 2) Fold each piece of ribbing in _3) Position ribbing seams at center thins the length of neck opening; _half lengthwise, with wrong sides __back or shoulder seam. Pin ribbings ccutone ribbing width for standard together. Pin narrow ribbing over to right side of garment, matching crewneck, and the other ribbing wide ribbing, with raw edges even pins, with wide ribbing on top and width for a narrow crew neck and seams matching. Divide ribbing raw edges even. Stitch as for tubular (page 17), Join short ends of cach and garment edges into fourths, ancl ribbing with V4" (6 mm) seam, pin-mark, How to Apply Lapped Ribbing method, step 3, opposite. ae 1) Cut ribbing two-thirdsthe length 2) Divide ribbing and garment into 3) Curve ends of ribbing into seam of neck opening plus | .8 cm); fourths; pin-mark. Pin ribbing to allowance, so folded ends overlap cut wideh for siandard crew neck” right side of garment, with center and taper to raw edges. Stitch as for (page 17). Fold in half lengthwise. of overlap at center front and raw tubular method, step 3, opposite, Lap ends of overlap with pin "@cm);markcemer _edges even, matching pins, starting at center back. How to Finish Ribbing and Knits with Lewuce Edging Conventional method. Zigzag closely spaced stitches over ribbing fold or folded edge of hem, placing fold at center of presser foot and stretching the fabric as you stitch. The more you stretch the faisric, the more ruffled the edge will be. For hems, trim the hem allowance close to stitching, Serged method, Adjust serger for rolled hem setting according to manufacturer’ directions. Stitch along ribbing fold or folded edge of hem, stretching fabric you stitch, Do not cut the folded edge with the serger knives. The more you stretch the fabric, the more ruffled the edge will he. For hems, trim hem allowanee close to stitching.1) Cut out shirt pieves, allowing 1” @.5-cam) seam allowances on left front and back shoulders. Gut two of fisible interfacing 1” (2.5 em) wide and length of shoulder seams fuse to un of left shoulder seam allowances. Finish raw edges: fold left front seam allowance under 1" (2.5 em), and press. Lap over left back shoulder seam allowance; baste within armhole seam allowance. Stitch right shoulder seam. 2) Gue ribbing 14” (3.8 cm) longer than pattern. Cut wo 114° (2.2 cm) pieces of fusible interfacing half the width of ribbing: fuse to under- side of ribbing ends. Fold ribbing. in hal? lengthisise, right sides together; stitch 4" (6 mm) seams atshor’ enels. Tarn and press Mark 1” (2.5 em) fron of ribbing. one end Snap Closures Snup closures at the neckline a more room for the head and make easy dressing for young fingers, Choose one of two methods, depending on the sijle of the shirt. Convert a left shoulder seam on a eibbed neckline to a snap of using individual gripper snaps. Or sew a front opening on a knit or woven shirt with a collar, using snap tape, Gripper snaps are available in many decorative styles and colors, and are easy to apply with special twols, Since snap tape is available in limited colons, check the selection before deciding on the shirt fab Stitch snap tape carefully to main- tain alignment of the fabcie design, For a neat look when the placke ‘open, finish the neck edges with twill tape or bias binding. Akeays preshrink fabric and tapes before constructing the shirt 3) Unfold front shoulder seam. Divide neckline into fourths, beginning at foldiine: pin-mark. Repeat lor ribbing, beginning at mark, Pin ribbing to right side of neck edge, matching marks; stitch as ‘on page 46, step 3. Turn shouldet sean allowance back ever ribbing straightstiteh across end 4° (6 mm) from neck edge. Refold sean allow- ance to inside. Apply gripper snaps, following manufacturer's directions place one on ribbing and two on shoulder. Complete garmentHow to Apply Snap Tape to a Full-length Shirt Opening 2) Mark center fyont on right side of crerlap, Glue-baste tape to facing, with ball side up and tape edge 94” 3) Mark cemter front on wrong side opening, of underlap. Glue-baste tape to aps about 1” ( a” facing, with socket side up and edges. P 0 (em) from center front. Edgestich edge $4" (1 em) from center front hem to wro ‘edge nearest center front, using Edgestitch edge nearest center front, zipper foot; at lower edge, turn —__ using zipper foot, at lower edge. ‘under tape to match pressed hem, turn under tape to match pressed Trim Facing 1o 4" (6 mm). hem. Trim facing to 4" (6 mm) tape anto garment 1¢ seam allowances, Edgestitch twill tape to garment, ackstitch at both ends. ‘with ends at cen ght side at stinched cm) twill ape 1” (2.5 Edgestitch fice longer than neck edge, With garment. Join prefinished collar asin step 1, page 47,H 1) Gut placket fi wide by length c Gem); interfs Sreperitrrertrerersresets Micbbdopedbahiaie set ets reteitrg a 3 eeerrerseetctit: rerrrerttiesere: peepenaeerterreretrt tits ‘opening plus 2 Finish long edges titching with 3-step 6" 12.5 co bem) 2) Mark center front of garment with 5" w 6" (12.5 10 15 cm) (1.5 cm) to left of center front for girls, right of cemer front for boys. Cut slash. Rugby Plack« by placket can be added to ic T-shirt to duplicate a read) Xk left of the cencer to lap right over left. Fora boy's garment, mark the placket opening to the right of ter to lap left over right. The center front is at the center of the closed placket, The photos t follow show a Face the placket with self-fabric or a coordinating fabric. Interface the placket piece with fusible interfacing Roll the overlap facing slightly to the outside for a decorati 3) Pin facing to garment, right Sides together, with facing ed ¥2" (3 em) above neck edge and marked slash line on facing directly under garment opening. Narrow side of facing is on right front for s, left front for boys4) Stitch around slash on garment, v4” (3 mm) from raw edges, using 12 to M stitches per inch (2:3 cm), Shorten stitches near point; make two stitches across point, Cut faci at slush line; cip to stizching at point Trim facing to match neckline curve facing 1o wrong side of Pin collar to neckline, right sides together, so center backs match, Collar ends are 2” (1.5 cm) past seam of underlap and at center front mark of overlap, 7) Cut 94" (2 cm) twill tape for 8) Stitch in the neck edge, so tape is long enough __underlap scam. Pin the overlap to to overlap finished edge of each the garment so about %" (3 mm) of facing by 4" (13 cm). Pin tape over facing is visible at the fol collar with right sides together and Stitch in the ditch of over edges even; stitch over previous stitching from Jower end to neckline: stitching. Tarn facings to wrong pivot, and topstiich 4" (6 mm) from side; turn tape over neck seam. neck seam to secure tape. allowances, and pin to garment 6) Fold underlap in half, with right sides together. Fold overlap, right sides together, with placket seam about ¥4"($ mm) from fold (arrow) ich neck sear; trim corners Hi i 9) Close placket; press. Stitch a rectangle 4” (6 mm) long and the ‘width of placket to secure all layers at lower end of placket. Make bar tack at point of slash by zigzagging in place. Trim excess facing below rectangle of stitching. Apply snay ‘or butions and buttonholes, at center frontExposed Zippers You can add color to a shirt by inserting a nonseparating zipper that the teeth are exposed. Zippers are available in a variety of colors ‘and may be combined with a facing, rolled to the right side to resemble piping. Facings may be made im a contrasting color or a coordinating print, plaid, or striped fabric. An exposed zipper is inserted in a slash opening in the front of a shirt. Neckline seams finished with twill tape or bias binding are durable, and the tape covers the neckline scam, ‘which will show if the zipper is open. How to Insert an Exposed 1) Mark center front of garment the length of zipper teeth, plus one allowance; slash. Gut facing 314” (0-em) wide and 2/4” (6 em) longer than slash, Interface knit or lightweight facings; mark center line, 2) Pin facing to garment, right sides togeth« above neck edge and m: Under siash. Stitch 4" (6 mm) from slash, to 4" (6 mm) below end of slash; pivot, and stitch 2” (3 cm). Pivot; stitch to neck edge. Trim excess facing at neck edge. 3) Cut facing on marked line; clip diagonally to corners. Serge or igzag raw edges of facing, facing to inside, rolling ¥s of the facing to right side at slash line; press.’ = a8) Nal: 4 Veal os ety eat) et: G tt et, no Heo et vey ent oan fe 4) Center zipper under opening, th teeth exposed and zipper stop at lower end of opening; glue-baste. Topstitch, using zipper foot, 44" 10 4° (3 10.6 mmn) from edge, through all ayers, Stitch shoulder seams. 5) Appl facing. Cut previc ‘ecige, with rigi ipper. Sti s stitching at neck ed lar with ends at edge o 4° (2-cm) will tape 1” 2.5 crn) longer than neck tape to net together and edges even; wrap 13 am) around sides a dge. Pin 6) Fold the twill ape ont enclosing the seam allow Edgestitch around outer edge of Facing and lower e Complete g: pattern directions,Pants & Skirts Pants and skirts are basic items in a child’s wardrobe For case in sewing as well as comfort in weuring, most childven’s pants and skirts are sewn with elasticized waistbands, using one of several meth For lightweight fabrics, both knits and woxens, a cut ‘on Vaistband is most appropriate; most children’s patterns are designed this way. The upper edge oF the garment is folded down 40 forma easing For the ic can either be inserted inte the ety to the fa avier fabries, such as Meece or corduroy, may be more comfortable to wear if made with a separate elasticized waistband cut iro: a lightersweight fabric, such as ribbing mis and skiris for preschoolers, who no longer neet ccommodate diapers, are often oothfitting front waistband ed t0 an elasticized back, Select elastic carefully; the amount of streich and the >very varies with the type of elastic, the method weight of the fabric (page 16). To determine the minimum length needed for a waist- line, stretch the clastic around the widest part of the Determine the maximum lengrh by comfort. As eneral rule, elastic will be 2” to 3° (5 to 7.5 em surement. Heavy fabri hinders elastic recovery: you may want 10 cut the 14" (8.8 cm) shorter than usual or apply a lightesweight separate waistband (page 60)How to Sew a Cut-on Waisthand with Attached Elastic 1) Extend pattern above waistline tw tin the elastic 2) Zigzag or serge elastic to garment, stretching width, Cut clastic using guidelines, page 57. Lap clastic between pins so garment lies flat; avoid elastie encls 12" (1.3 em); stitch, using zigzag. Pin- cutting elastic when serging. ark elastic and garment into fourths. Pin elastic to wrong side of garment, matching pins; align edges 3) Fold elastic ro wrong side of garment so fabric 4) Topstiteh through all layers of waistband at lower cencases elastic. Stitch in the ditch across clastic width edge of elastic, stretching elastic as you sew, Use at center front, center back, and side seams. cover stitch on serger (page 22) or multistitch-rigrag on conventional machine for maximum stretch on knit fabrics, Straight-stitch using long stitches on. woven fabrics,How to Sew a Cuton Waisthand with an Elastic Insert 1) Extend pattern above waisiline twice the elastic 2) Fold upper edge to wrong side an amount equal width plus ¥ to width of elastic plus 18" (1.3 em); pin o baste elastic, add 2%" (7 em) above the waistline, Cut out Edgestitch close to fold, rinent and stitch together. Finish upper edge ‘or multistiteh zigzag, Using serg 3) Overlap ends of elastic 12” (1.3 em); zigzag, Position clastic within casing area. Stitch next to elastic, using straight stitch andl zippei layers catch elastic in stitching. Shift fabric around elast as necessary while stitching, 4) Stretch waistband to distribute fabric evenly, From right side of garment, stitch in the ditch through all ceatcr front, center back, and side seams, to secure elastic ot; do notHow to Apply a Separate Elasticized Waistband 1) Cut garment sections, allowing 54° (1.5 em) seam 2) Stitch short ends of waistband together: Divide allowance above waistline, Cut ribbing or lightweight rad aod gaciueeeageetiys wouribes pinmasks knit, on crosswise gralnfine, vice the width of the Fold waistband! in half lengthwise, wrong sides clastic plus 11/4” (3.2 cm); length of waistband must together, eneasing elastic, Baste 12" (1.3 cm) from be long enough (o pull over hips. Overlap elastic raw edges; shift fabric around elastic a6 necessary ends; rigag 3) Pin waisthand to right side of garment, matching, 4) Stretch waistband to distribute fabric evenly. Stitch pin marks. Serge just inside basting stitches, strereh through all layers at center front, center back, and ing waisthand to fit garment bewycen pins. Or stitch sides to secure clastic with conventional machine. Trim searn allowances to Va" (6 mm); finish seam allowance edges together Turn seam allowance toward garment 6.How to Apply Elastic w a Back Wi 1) Cut and sew garment front, according to pane directions. Apply fusible interlacing v waist hand, Stiich 1 garment front, right sides together t n allowance, and press toward waisthand, Trim opposite seam allowance to Yi" (6 mm); finish by serging or using multistiteh-rigvag, 3) Attach elastic; fold to inside and topstiteh as it) steps 2 and 4, page 58, Complete garment front according to pattern directions, Pin front to back at side scum, right sides cogether. Turn front waistband ‘wer back waistband at side seams; stitch seam, 2) Extend back pattern above waistline two times the clastic width, Stitch and finish center back seam, Cut clastic 114 2 cm) longer than half the amount you would use for filly elasticized waisthand., With ‘elastic on wrong side of garment and upper edges even, stitch ends to sicle seam allowances. Pin center of clastic to center back. ie 4) Turn front waistband to fiside, entasitg elastic cends, Clip back side seam allowance below waist andl, if necessary, to press open. Edgestitch around front waistband. 6Pockets Ghildren like pockets, which can be both functional and decorative. Consider the pocket placement and size. Place pockets where the child can easily teach them, and make them large enough to hold obj pst styles and shapes of be used c shirts, jackets, pants, and skirts. Test the shape and size by using a template cut to finished size. Be cr ‘with pocket placement, shape, and trim. Pockets are siet to attach before garment seams are stitched Add a kangaroo pocket to shirts and sweatshirts. A Kangaroo pocket is a large patch pocket that has side ‘openings. Sew this pocket into the side seams and waistline, and trim the upper e piping. Ribbed-cop pockets can be coordinated with knit collars and cuffs. To maintain the original pocket size, shorten the pocket by an amount equal to the finished width of the ribbiHow to Sew a Kangaroo Pocket 1} Cut pocket the same width as garment and balf the garment length from neck edge at center front tolower edge. Cut hand openings at an angle from midpocket on the sides to one-third the width at the upper edge; round the corners at upper edge. 8) Stitch piping to right side of pocket at upper edge. raw edges even, using %” (J cm) seam. Press seam allowances to wrong side of pocket, with the piping. turned up; topstivch the upper exige of pocket} (6 mm) from seam How to Sew a Ribbed-top Pocket 1) Cut pocket ith 4" (1 em) seam allowances at les and lower edge. Trim pocket *4” (2 cm) below finished upper edge. When using prefinished cuff, cut cuff 14" (L.3 em) shorter than pocket width and 14” (3.2 an) wide. When using ribbing, cnt ribbing (1.3 cm) shorter than pocket width and 2) (6.5 am) wide; fold in half lengthwise 2) Cut fabric strip for piping, 1/4" (8.2 cx the length of upper edge o! grain for knits or 0 I ‘wide and pocket; cut on crosswise bias for wovens. Fold strip in hal igthwise, wrong sides together; press. 4) Glue-baste pocket on garment, matching side seamns and lower edge, Topstitch upper edge of pocket, stitching over previous topstitching; do not stitch hand, openings ciosed. Reinforce by stitching in ditch of piping seam; backs nto strengthen ends 2) Stitch prefinished cuff or ribbing to upper edge of pocket, right sides together, using 14° (6mm) seam allowance; stretch cuff or ribbing to fit. Press seam toward pocket; press #4 (1 emt) to inside on lower and side edges of pocket. Finish as for basic patch pocket, siep 3, page BB. 63Patch Pockets Patch pockets can become a design element of the garment if they are made from ou may want to cut pocke bias or from striped fabric sut on the iges are trim to a pocket, apply it before stitch to the garment Create your own patch pockets of uny size or shape or use the pocket piece provided with the pattern. Check the size and placement of a poc garment by cutting a pock do not include seam or hen pocket placement on the m allowances at the et shape from paper; m allow Mi nt with pins or washable pocket patter ides and lower edge, and. a hem allowance ai the upper edg: athered or pleated pat ging a pa hers or pleais, these poc hokd more than standai h pocket may t t patter eis are mor patch peHoy to Make a Basic Patch Pocket 1) Determine finished pocket size: add {4" (I ci) 1 sides and lower edge, and 1%" (8.5 cm)at upper Pre ecige. Cut pocket. Press upper rawr (2.5 cm); stiteh, How to Make a Gathered or Pleated Patch Pocket athered Pocket. 1) Cut pocket 4 (I(/ em) wider than basic patch pocket as in step 2, above. Finish upper edge with double-fold bias tape as in step 1 page 31 8) Press iwo 1” (2.5 em) tucks to center at lower edge of pocket; staystitch, Press seam allowances, and attach pocket as for basic patch pocket, steps 2 and 3, ahove. 2) Place a 2” (5 cm) cardboard template at corner on seamlines 72" (1 em) seam allowances over template: open, and fold edge under %4” (cm), then 1” diagonally across corner to miter. Retold on pressed lines; press. 8) Glue-baste pocket in place garment. Edgestitch sides and lower edge. Topstitch “(6 mm) from previous stitching. To bar tack, Zigzag at upper corners. 2) Cut 14" (6 mm) elastic 4” (10 em) shorter than Width of pocket; stitch to pocket 156” (3.5 cm) below upper edige us in steps 1 and 2, page 72, Pleated pocket. Cut pocket 4” (10 cm) wider than basic patch pocket, and finish upper edge as in step 1, above, Press two 1” (2.5 cm) pleats to center of pocket. Genter and artach bution 1" @.5 cm) from upper edge, to secure pleats. Press scam allowances, and attach pocket as for basic patch pocket, steps 2 and 3, above.Faced Patch Pockets Sev quick and easy laced patch pockets in almost any shape you can imagine; sew animal faces, geometric shapes, flowers, or enlarged moti fr fabric itself. Two tightly spaced rows ot it possible (0 tim seam allowances close, crisp, smooth edges, even on curves, inner corners and points 66 Use stable woven fabrics 5. Back light nits vith fusible interfacing, and face them Plan the pocket design diameter to be at least 4” (10 em), and determine the location of the pocket opening, For arlded interest, place the pocket at an angle or embellish it with stitching lines, ‘embroidery, appliqués, or buttons.How to Make a Faced Patch Pocket 1) Draw pocket design on paper; cut out. Check size and placement on garment. ‘Trace pocket shape on ‘rong side of packet fabric; wace snirror image, if pocket is asymmetrical. Draw short perpendicular fine at each inner and outer comer, Layer design on lining fabric, right sides together; pin. 3) Cut sinall dash in lining, near lower edge, Turn pocket right sile our through slash. Use point mener as necessary wo smooth outer edges; press. Embellishment Techniques 2) Stitch on arked line around entire design, using short straight stitches. Stitch second row of stitches just outside first row; at corners, taper stitches into frst stitching line, Clip co stizching line at corners sim Labrie away 0 within /4" (3 mm) of stitches, 4) Fuse slash closed, using small strip of fusible inter facing. Embellish pocket as desired. Pin to garment; edgestirch, reinforcing stizehes at opening Appliqueés. Apply appliques as on page 94, or use ravr-edge method on page 97. Design lines. Draw desigi Tines on watersoluble stabilizer; pin to pocket front. Stiteh over design lines, using short straight stitches or short narrow satinIn-seam Pockets Sew flat, nonbulky in-s scams for a readyto-wear look. Adapt a pattern that Curved or rectangula has a two-piece pocket by cutting a single pocket aun pockets in garment site piece from sellfabric, In-seam pockets may be either How to Sew One-piece Inseam Pockets ~N 1) Mark pocket opening on side 2) Cut 2” (1.3 em) will tape 1” 3) Stitch pocket to garment back ‘em) longer than pocket at sicle seamline, with right sides seam allowance of garment front; to wrong side Trim seam opening, Pin tipe aver trimmed ‘ogether: finish pocket and seam allowance to V4" (6 mm) seam allowance at pocket opening, edges. Press seam allowances ‘with tape edge next to the fold: joward pocket, Lap the garment stitch through all layers on both front over the lack side sean allowance, with taped edge even with seambine, edges of twi 4) Topstiteh through all layers 8) Pin and straightastiich the loose 6) Complete garment according «o pattern directions, Caich upper edge of pocket in waistline seam. above and below pocket opening —_edlges af pocket to garment front to match stitching lines on twill Repeat steps for other pocket, tape. Make a bar tick by zigagging opening, 69Dresses (Choose construction methods that add a professional finish to the dresses that you sew. Line the yokes of dresses and blouses to eliminate facings that show through the fabric and to add stability to the yoke. Line lightweight or mediumweight fabrics with sel fabri, line bulky fabrics with a lightweight fabric, and line tansparent print fabrics with solid-color fabrics. Use narrow French seams on sheet, lightweight fabric. They are used on straight seams, but are unsuitable for cutrved scams or seams with gathers,How to Line a Yoke or Bodice 1) Cut yoke and yoke lining. Stitch shoulder seams, 2) Stitch yoke to lining at neckline with right sides using French seams for sheer and lightweight fabrics together, using short sitch length. Trim the seam Aitach collar to right side of yoke. allowances to a scant 4” (6 mm); clip curves, and tnderstitch seam allowances to lining. Turn; press . a ; Z s i 4 ak Hi 4 Ea 3) Pin yoke to lining at lower edge: pin to skirt, right Alternative method, Stitch yoke to skirt, right sides Sides togetier and stich, Finish taw edges; presiseam together. Press seam allowances toward yoke. Ti allowances toward yoke. under scam allowance of linings slipstitch to sea, How to Sew a Narrow French Seam 1) Mark stitching line in seam 2)Trim seam allowance to scant 3) Stitch seam ¥4" (3 mm) from allowance, Yio" 4.5 mm) from the _¥4" (8 mim); press seam allowances fold, encasing raw edges, Press seamline. Stitch with wrong sides to one side, Fold on stitching line, seam allowance to one side. together, using 15 10 18 stitches right sides together; press per inch (2.5 cm).How to Gather Sleeves with Elastic 1) Gut 4” (6 mm) elastic to fit the body comfortably plus seam allowances, Sleeve elastic does not need to fit snugly. Mark stitching line for elastic on wrong: side of garment, using washable marking pen. For sleeves, pin-mark elastic and sleeve at searnlines and midpoint; for waistlines, divide elastic and garment into fourths, and pin-mark, thers & Ruffles Dress patterns often require the techniques of applying elastic, gathering fabric, and making ruffles. The methods that follow can simplify these techniques Transparent clastic may be substituted for clasticized casings to gather sleeves and waistlines. Stitch the elastic directly to the garment. The stitches are hidden in the folds of the fabric. To create soft, fine gathers in lightweight fabrics, stitch ‘gathering lines, using short stitches. To gather 2 long piece of fabric, you can zigzag stitch ver a heavy thread or peatl cotton, which will not break when pulled, Ruffles may be made from a double or single layer o fabric. Make double-layer ruffles from soft, lighrweigh fabrics. To cut, fold the fabric, and place the outer ‘edge of the ruffle pattern on the fold to elimina hem. The doubled Fabric adds body to the ruffle. Make single-layer ruffles from firm fabrics or fabrics that show through when doubled, such as eyelets and sheer prints. When adding lace to a single-layer ruffle ‘you may want to reduce the pattern at the outer edge by the width of the lace. 2) Pin clastic to wrong side of garment at pin-marks. Zigzag elastic to garment over marked line; stretch 10 fit between pins, but do not stretch elastic in seam allowances. Finish garment according to pattern directions, catching elastic in seam,How to Gather Lightweight Fabrics 1) Loosen upper tension; set stitch length at 14 to 18 stitches per inch @.5.em), Stitch two gathering rows on right side of fabric, '4" (3 mm) apart, on each side of seamline How to Make Ruffles Double-layer ruffle. 1) Fold fabric ‘wrong sides together; place outer seamline or hemline of the ruffle pattern on fold. Gut ruffle. Using a wide zigzag setting, stitch ¥ (1.5 em) from raw edges over a heavy thread, 8 magait ae v7 2) Pull both bobbin threads, and distribute gathers evenly. Stitches snatically pull to wrong side of garment for gathering ease. Wrap threads around a pin to anchor at each end. ad, and distribute gathers evenly: Wrap thread around { pin to anchor at each end. Stitch fle to right side of garment, remove heavy thread 3) Stitch on seanaline betw rows of gathering when joining te garment. Do not remove gathering stitches; outer row of stitches is hidden in fabric fullness. stitch flat lace to . wrong sides Single-layer ruffle. outer edge of ruff together. Trim seam allowance 10 Va (6 mm); press toward ruftle Edgestitch 3” (1 em) ribbon over seam allowances through all layers. Gather rutileCollars Add a special detail to the collar to give a dress unique style. Define the outer edge with contrasting piping for a dainty, tailored effect. Add feminine charm with a gathered lace or eyelet edging, Or customize the collar by adding both edge details Take advantage of the embroidery capabilities of your sewing machine by embellishing a wide collar ‘nih a delieare embroidered motif or edging Fabries such as lightweight batiste, broadcloth, calico, organdy, and voile are suitable for collars with decorative edge details. Pipings and trims help stabilize outer collar edges, and may climinate the need for interfacing on opaque ftbrics, To minimize seam or design shovsthrough, back translucent fabrics with sheer knit interfacing Fora machineembroidered collar, choose lightweight, tightly woven 100% cotton. Or, if you prefer a sheer look, use silk organza or cotton oxgandy. Test the embroidery design to help determine the size and placement of the design on the collar; also test (he stabilizing method. Conter a lange motif on a single layer of fabri for a wide rounded collar. Embroider a continuous scallop design along the outer edge; select one that allows you to easily cut away excess fubrie close (0 the sitehes, Asan alternate method, stitch a facing to the embroidered collar, and trim the outer edge with piping or gathered laceHow to Machine-embroider a Single- "mA A > y A ane center of collar for placement of embroidery. ark Jayer Collar 2) Place fabric in hoop; position under needle, Place te: stabilizer un p. Embroider Stitch decorative border pattern on outer seamline, 3) Tear away stabilizers, taking care not to distort stitches. Apply fray preventer along outer edge of border; allow to dry. Trim close to stitches with small sharp scissors.Collars with Piping Piping adds a tailored look to a collar, and may be used for a boy's or girl's collar. String or fine cord is an appropriate filler for piping in children’s collars; How to Apply Piping toa Collar 1) Gut bias fabric strip 2” (5 cm) wide and length o: outer edge of collar. Lay string or fine cord in center, and fold strip in half, wrong sides together: Stich dose .o string, using zipper foot. Trim outer edge of collar and bias strip seam allowances to ¥4" (6 mm). 3) Stiteh upper collar to undercollar on outer edge, with right sides together; stitch over basting line to join collars and piping. preshrink the filler, Gut fabric strips for piping, page 108, Collars may also be trimmed with of piping and lace, opposite bing to right side of upper collar, rave exen. Clip seam allowance of pipin neckline. Taper piping into seam allowan¢ undercollar and piping seam im upper colla ly with pinking shears; the upper 4” ($ mm), seam allowance nllar seam allowance prevents piping scam allowance from showing through. Turn right side out. Press gentlyCollars with Lace Edging Lace edging adds a feminine touch to a collar; it may be used alone or with piping (below). Io keep the original size of a collar, reduce the width of the How to Apply Lace Edging to a Collar 1) Trace collar pauiern onto puper. Gather straight edge of lace; pin to pattern, with Finished edge o/ Jace at pattern seamline. Draw nev seamline (arrow) at gathering line of lace, Draw new cutting line 4" 6 mm) from new seamline. Cut collar, using justed pavtern 8) Stitch upper collar to undercollar on outer edge ight sides together, stitching over basting line to join collars and lace. Trim seam allowances as in step 4, opposite. Turn right side out. Remove basting, Press gently pattern by the width of the lace that is to be added at the edge. To make adding trims easier, adjust all seam allowances at the outer edge of the collar to 4" (6 mm). 2) Baste lace to upper collar, right sides together placing gathering line at nevr seamline. Adjust gathers so extra fullness is at curves. Baste ruffled portion of lace down to prevent catching in seam while stitching. yg and lace, Make adjusied pattern 1, above, Baste piping in place, Complete collaiSynthetic fleece, such as Polarfleece®, is popular for children’s garments. Its warm without being heavy, easy 10 sew and even easier to launder Ie does not ravel, so edge finishes are not neeessiry, though garment edges are olten finished with ribbing [page 48). There are also several decorative edge finishes that give the garment a read)-to-rear look, ‘When sewing fleece, use a straight stitch length of about 9 stitches per inch (3.5 num) on the conven- tional machine. Use 14" (6 mm) seam allowances ‘whenever possible, and “flatten” the fabric in lront of the presser foot, help feed the bulkiness, Serge fleece, using the widest width andl a 3.m Iengtly for flat, durable seams or to flatten an edge before hemming or binding. Or overlock garment edges using texturized nylon thread for a smooth, fat decorative finish, ‘When hems are desirable, frst serge the hem flaicen it; then turn up che hem andl stiteh 24° (3 mmm) from the serged edge. Use the serger cover stitch for 4 professional looking hem. Or, stitch the hem with a tyrin needle, using the conventional machine, For a decorative effect, stitch the hem from the right side, using an embroidery pattern on the machine. ‘Take care when pressing fleece. Never allow the iron to rest on the fleece; rather steam the fleece lightly and do the “pressing” with your fingers,Edge Finishes for Fleece Scallop-cut edge. Cut fleece, using a rotary cutter Overlocked edge. Set the serger for a wwith a wave blade, Use this finish on patch pockets or overedge stitch with the wid on outer edges of a simple jacket, C short stitch length, Use texturized nylon thread in rim for inserting in a s the needle and lower looper. Use the differential strips with one straight edge and one scalloped eilge. feed feature, if available, to stitch evenly around curves, leaving a Mat decorative Gish 2-thread possible width and i, cutting narrow fleece Blanket stitch. 1) Thread single strand #3 pearl corion, baby yarn, or six strands of embroidery i chenille needle; knot end. underside at starting point, 13" (6 mm) from outer edge, Form loop at edge by bringing thread (o left and then right as shown; hold loop with left chumb, 80 2) Insert needle durough fabric V4" (6 mm) from edge, catching garment, if attaching pocket. Briny needlle up at edge, passing need through loop as shown. Pull needle through fabric; release thumb from Joop, and pull stitch snug to the fabric edge. 3) Make second stitch 4 from first stitch, as i ntinue, working stitches froma leit ‘0 right. Work three stitches at square corners ay shown. sieps 1 and 2;Flat bound edge, 1) Cut binding strips from crosswise grain of Iycra/cotton fabric, about four times the desired finished width of the binding, Trim away h for seam allowance on garment edge. Sitch single layer of binding to fleece, right sides together, at distance from edge equal to desired finished binding width. Fase binding around outside curves; stretch binding slighily on inside curves. 2 2) Pin binding t ps of era swimwear garm fabric on lengthwise grain, Fold. binding in half lengdhvis sides together, for shiny side out, or wrong sides together, for dull side, Use Mat construct orintheround method, depending on location. Trim away heer or sear allowance on garment edge, Divide binding and garment edge into fourths; pin-smark. Stretch bound edge. 1) Ci (6.5 em) st mm method 19 right side of matching pins, For best results, serge seam, using widest right setting: stretch binding ro fit betneen pins. This flattens seam allowance to minimize bulk. Or sew JA” (6 mun) straightstiich seam on conventional machine 2) Wrap binding to wrong side; pin in the ditch of the seam from the right side, catching binding on the wrong side. Sitch in the diteh of the sean, Trim off excess binding on wrong side lose to stitching 3) Wrap binding to wrong side pin in the diteh of the seam trom the right side, catching binding on the wrong side. Stitch in the ditelr of the seam, streiching, binding slightly. 81Closures Hook and loop tape. Stitch circles to garment with, a triangle, overlapping stitches on one side. Cover stitching on right side with blanker-stitched fleece cutouis, yarn pom-poms, or decorative buttons. Buttonholes, For best results, sew corded button- holes in least stretchy direction of fleece. Place water-soluble stabilizer on right side and tearaway stabilizer underneath. Stiteh buttonholes; remove stabilizers. Apply liquid fray preventer to stitches defore cutting buttonholes open. 82 Gripper snaps. Apply simaps, using special tools and following minufacturer’s directions. When applying snaps to a single layer of fleece, add support on the underside of the underlap with « small square of nterfacing, Buttons. When stitching buttons 10 a single layer of fleece, add support with a small flat bution on the underside,Jumpers Jumpers, jumpsuits, ane rompers olfer the ease of ‘one-piece dressing and the consfort of clothing that doesn’t gap open, come untucked, or bug too tightly around the tummy. For added detail and to eliminate the need for facings, bind armhole and neckline edges in a contrasting color, Use lightweight tightly woven fabric on a wexen garment; select sin ribbing, or lyera knit to bind edges on knit 7, for easy sewing on stretchy knits, simply tum and. stitch the edges, using the cover stitch on the serger le knit or twin-needle straight stiteh with the conventional machine. Both looks are commonly found in ready- towear children’s clothing, : garment areas that require un interfaced facing, as front or back buttoned closures oF 4 stitch the facings to the garment, sto hefore applying the binding. Roun: square corners where binding will be applied.How to Apply Binding Woven Binding. 1) Stitcla any side and shoulder sea line and armhole edges !4” (3 mm) Geeper than seaniline. For instance, if garment seam 5 em), staystitch 4" (2 em) from edges. Trim away seam allowances allowances ar 3) Topstitch over binding, using multistiteh-zigzag in thread color to match bindin; 4 2) Cut 1° (2.5 cm) bias strips and fold into single fold, bias binding (page 108); press in half. Shape binding to fit curve steam iron, Glue-baste bind! ‘over raw edges: overlap ends 14” (1.3 cm) on continuous circle. Knit Binding. 1) Follow step 1, above, Cut 1° (2.5 cm) binding strips on crosswise grain of knit, Pin binding to garment, right sides together, aligning edges.3) Wrap binding to underside: glue-baste. Stirch in the ditch from right side, catching binding on underside. ‘Trim binding close to stitching Overlap binding ends on continuous circle. Turn 18" (1.3 em) at finished garment edge. Serge or stitch binding to garment 4" (6 mm) from edly How to Finish Edges with the ‘lurn und Stitch Method 1) Stiteh any side and shoulder 2) Trim the sexm allowances 1 94° 8) Topstiteh neckline and armhole seams, Staystiteh neckline and (Lem), Turn any facings to right edges, using twin needle stitch on armhole edges in seam allowance, side, and stitch Tam to inside, conventional machine or cover and press. Press seam allowances ta stiteh on serger just inside seamline underside.How to Make a Bow Tie 1) Fold al fabric strips lengthwise, 2) Insert flocce in strip for bov. with right sides together, and stitch Fold ends of strip to center back, with 4° (6 mm) seam; press open. overlapping ends ¥" (6 mm); stitch. “Turn the strips right side out; press Wrap center of bow tightly with flat, centering seam. le thread. Tack center back to center of neck band. 86 Reversible Vest with Bow Tie Goordinate a reversible vest with sg bow tie, For the vest, selec two fabrics that are similar in weight and have the sume care requirements, Interface the entire vest front for a crisp look and for support in the closure area Gripper saps, attached with a decorative prong for both the ball and socket, allow the vest to lap correctly when reversed, For an easy-to-sew bow tie, cut fabric either on the bias or straight grain. (Cut fabric for the baw 82" 9" for the knot 3” 2 and for the neck band n) wide by the length of the neck measurement plus 112” 3.8 am), (Take neck measurement over the shirt.) For interfacing, cu apiece of polyester fleece, 116" <9 (8.8 23 cm). Attach hook and loop tape to the ends of the neck band ‘or easier dressing. This size will be appropriate up to a Boys’ size 10 3) Wrap strip for knot around bow and neck band, lapping ends; hand stitch in place, On ends of neck band, turn in raw edges 4° (6 mm) Stitch hook and Inop tape to ends of neck bandHow to Make a Reversible Vest =~ 1) Cut ewo fronts and one back from 2) Stitch vests together at front, 3) Turn vest right side out by pulling fabric; repeat, using coordinating neck, and armhole edges, right _ front through shoulder to back, one fabric. Follow pattern directions _sides together, matching shoulder side ss, positioning to attach pockets to interfaced ves ns. Trim seam allowances tc camline exactly on the edge. front, Stitch all shoulder sears; ” (G mm); clip curves to stitching, press open, Press seams oper, 4) Stiteh side seams of bots layers in one continuous 5) Stiteh lower raw edges, with right sides together step, matching armhole seams. Press seams open. and side seams matching; leave 3° (7.5 cm) opening for turning. Trim seam allowances to 4° (6 min); trim corners. ‘Trim seam allawances to 9" (1 em). 2) Mark snap positions an both sides of each vest front, Apply stiaps according to package directions, using decorative caps on both parts of snaps. 6) Turn vest right side out through opening at lower edge. Press lower edge, positioning seamlin can the edge. At opening, turn in raw edges, Topstitch vest 14" (6 mm) from edges, if desire:1) Trim neck and front opening seam allowances, above. Pin one side of open zipper to jacket edge, right sides together and edges even, with boitom stop at lower ‘edge. Stitch next to ripper teeth from lower edge to neckline: leave excess zipper at neck edge. 38 2) Close zipper, aud mark the alignment of seams or the fabric design. Open zipper. Matching marks on zipper to jacket. pin and stitch other side of zipper asin step 1 Separating Zippers Use exposed separating zippers as a decorative touch in children’s sweatshirts or jackets made from warm, durabie fabrics, such as corduroy, denim, swearshit fleece, and double-faced polyester bunting. Before applying a zipper, complete the garment, including the collar and lower edge, according to pattern directions, [tim front opening seam allowances to %4"(1 crn), the neck seam allowane (6 mm). Finish neckline and apes with bias binding far a decorative trim. I the correet ripper size is not available, purchase a zipper longer than needed. The ripper can be trimmed to fic during application. 3) Cut two bias strips (page 103), 210" (5.3.cm) wide and 1° (2.5 cm) longer than zipper opening, Cut another bias strip, 198" (4 em) wide ‘and length of neck edge. Press all strips in half lengihwise, wrong sides together:4) Place binding over zipper tape, _§) Pivot, and stitch along the neck _6) Trim excess binding even with with raw edges ofbinding and zipper seamline to fold of binding. If raw edge of neckline. Trim excess even. Wrap 2” (1.3 cm) of binding zipper is longer than opening, turn zipper one tooth beyond stitching, tightly around ripper at lowerend; _handwheel by hand to stitch between line. Repeat binding application Ieave 14" (113 can) excess binding at zipper teeth, for other side. neck edge. Stitch from lower edge ‘over previous stitching. over collar, with dings to the wrong side. raw edges even. Extend the ends Baste bindings to garment on fold. of the neckline binding 4" @ mm) Edgestitch folded edge of binding ‘onto the zipper binding; trim excess, to jacket front, beginning at the Stitch the neckline binding over lower edge. Pivot at fold of the previous stitching. neckline binding. 9) Continue stitching around the fold of neckline binding and down other front binding fold. Bar cack at bottom of zipper by zigzagging in placePersonalizingAdding a Personal Touch Use your imagination to create personal touches that will make a garment special to the child. The techniques for personalizing clothing can be adapted toa single garment or repeated on several garments in a coordinated wardrobe. Consider color blocking, expecially when you are sewing more than one garment; use the remnants from one garment for blocks of color in another: Or highlight and coordinate garments with piping, You may want to add appliqués; select either the traditional method of appliqué on page 94, or the Quick and casy rawedge method on page 97 Parchwork trims can add greatly 1 the cost of ready to-wear garments, but some techniques permit you to make designs with small amounts of fabric in a short time. Fabric paints may be used to personalize a garment. They can also be used to decorate fabric shoes When personalizing children’s garments, remember that special touches can be added to fronts, backs, and sides of garments, and all trims must be attached securely and safely Tips for Placement of Design Balance design shapes. For example, you can offset asmall design at the upper left of a shirt with a larger design at the loner right Place a placket at a shoulder or raglan seam so a design can be centered on a shirt front Add a design to the back of a shirt that has a plain from, or repeat a design used on the front Machine-stitch trim to sleeves while the piece is still lat to climinate the necd for handwark in areas too mall for your sewing machine to reach, Decorate sleeves using elbow patches or by placing designs down the cenier of the sleeve. Highlight shoulder seams with piping, will or bias tape, or ribbing Repeat a design to make a border at the neckline, yoke, or hemline. Greate interest with fabrie strips or trims placed diagonally, vertically, or horizontally; an uneven umber of strips or trims may be more pleasing han an even numberTips for Appliques Practice scitching an appliqué on a test piece before working with the garment piece. Select a colorfast fabric for an appliqué that is compatible with garment fabric in weight and care requirements; preshrink all fabrics, Remember that it is easiest 10 stitch around large, simple shapes with few corners. Leave a fabric margin in a geometric shape around intricate motifs cot From printed fabrics ‘Apply paper-backed fusible web to the wrong side oe al oCeee a ee ae an Add durability woa garment by applying an appliqué with fusible web at knees or elbows, 4 Appliqués Appliques are a traditional method for decorating children’s garments Select from three basic types of appliqués; purchase iron-on or sew-on appliqués, or design your ‘own, For a fast and easy decorative touch, fuse purchased iron-on appliqués to a garment, following the manufacturer's directions. Purchased sew-on appliqués may he fused to the garment using fusible web. You may wish to topsticeh to secure the appliqué through many launderings. You may want to design your own custom-made appliqués, Look ar magarines, ready-to-wear garments, or coloring books for ideas, Fruit, animals, numbers, toys, hears, and rainbows are all popular shapes for children’s appliques. Consider cutting motifs from printed fabrics Before assembling the appliqué, plan the work sequence. Smaller pieces may need to be positioned on and stitched to larger pieces before applying appliqué to the garment, and some picces may overlap other pieces, Embellish the appliques with bows, buttons, ribbons, pom-poms, fabric paint, or cord, Gutends of cord may be placed under appliqué pieces belore fusing, Trims may be stitched or glued in place, using permanent fabric glue “Add 14" (1.3 om) to sides of applique pieces that will ‘go under another piece: trim to reduce bulk when final placement is determined. ‘Remember that shapes drawn on paper backing of fusible web will be reversed on the garment; draw mirror images of letters or numbers, Appl garm an appliqué. Use a special-purpose presser foot with a wide channel to prevent buildup of satin stitches away stabi smbot er to the wrong side of in stitching ar the edge of Apply an appliqué to garment before joining seams. Tis easier to apply an appliqué while Fabric is flaHow to Make and Apply an Appliqué 2) Draw design on fabric or paper _3) Position appl pieces on towrong side of appliqué fabric, backing; add 4” (1.3 cm) to sides the ggarment fabric. Trim appliqué following manufacturer's directions. of applique pieces that go under _pieces under other pieces to redluce Allow fabric to cool. another piece Cutouc design and bulk; leave scant 4" (5 mm). Fuse remove paper backing. appliqué pieces to garment 4) Cut tear-away stabilizer 1” 5) Decrease the upper tension, and Appliqué with squeaker. Apply 2.5 cm) larger than appliqué adjust stitches for short, wide zigrag; fusible interfacing to wrong side Gine-baste to the wrong side of satin stitch arourel appliqué edges of appliqué. Place squeaker under Garment, under applique. Zigaag to caner all nw edges. Remove tear> applique: ghie applique in place a stitch around applique, using short, away stabilizer: edges. Complete applique as in steps narrow stitches 4and 5, leftOusside corners. Stitch past the edge of the appliqué one stitch Raise presser foot, pivot fabric, and Inside corners, Stitch past corner Curves. fabri Erequently. For equal to width of satin continue stitching. fabric, and continue stitehi inner edge of stitching (b). Appliqués from printed fabs Decorated appliqués. Decorute un Padded appliqués. Sew small Cut designs from fabric to us appliqué with butions, bows, beads, padded appliqués as for wall as appliqués, For an intricate ribbons, or pomeponis, Stitch the sculptures, page 119. Stitch them design, cuta fabric margin in a decorations securely simple shape. 96,Raw-edge Appliqués Raweclge appliqués are quick and easy: For ease int se appliqués in phice belore construct ing the garment. Stiveh intricate shapes 10 the garment fabrie, using ffree-motion machine stitching tech: niques. Drop or cover the feed dogs ‘on the machine, and guide the fabric by hand in order to stitch in any direetion without repositioning the fabric How to Sew a Raw-edge Appliqué 2) Place (car-away stabilizer undler fabric. Stitch 14" (3 mm) from raw edges, using a darning foot and free~ motion stitching; use your hands to guide che Fabric as you stitch, Stitch any interior design lines. 1) Stiffen the fabric, using spray slarch, Gut out desired! shapes. Arrange shapes over fabric; secure in place with ghue stick. Alternative method. Follow step 1 left. Stitch around simple shapes, ititch-rigaag. using Short, wide 1Fabric Painting & Printing Fabrie paints, inks, and fabric crayons ean be used to decorate garments, Some methods, including steneiling, stamping, and crayon heat transfer are easy enough for children 10 do under supervision. Help children plan and practice their own design: before they begin painting on fabric, Wash and dry the fabric (o remove any sizing before applying the design. Decorate the fabric before cutting out the pattern, or decorate the completed garment Select acrylic fabric pains for projects painted by children. The cleanup of these water-soluble paints is easy while the paintis wet, Paint jumbo stencils ‘00 fabric, using cellulose sponges or foam pouncers. ramp images onto fabric using large rubber stamps, How to Stencil on Fabric 1) Place the garment flat on clean paper, with wax paper herween fabric layers, Use purchased stencil Dampen sponge design or cut an original design almost dry. Di from thin cardboard, Tape stencil in position on garment, 2) Dilute stencil paint, using one drop of water to ten drops of paint. squeeze until spong sponge in paint and use to paint inside stencil Lift stencil gently, Heatset according to manufacturer's directions, such as Chunky Stamps® from Back Street. Or use precut sponge shapes. Look for heat transter designs chat supply only the outline of the image, and color them in with fabric paint pens, such as Dylon ColorFun®, by Dritz. Have a child create original artwork, using heat transfer crayons on. paper, and transfer the design to a new shirt, Follow the manufacturers’ directions for each product, Drying times will vary, and some products should be heat set to make them permanent. Lay garments or fabric flat when painting, and place Wax paper or smooth cardboard between layers to prevent color from bleeding through. Alternative method. Cut sponge into desired shape, Dampen the squeeze until almost ¢ Dip sponge in paint, and apply to garment. Allow garment to dry flat, Heataset according to the manufacturer's directions,Spread thin layer of paint on paper plate: press jumbo rubber stamp into paint, Press onto f printing paint lilt straight up from fabric. Apply more paint to stamp with each print oo i ‘Transfer design outline onto fabric, using light box, heat-transfer marking pen, or purchased hear transfer design, Color design using fabric pens 100 Color desired design on paper, using heattransfer crayons, Avoid letters or tumbers, as image will be sed when applied to fahrie. Place paper Face down on fabric; transfer design, using iron and following manulacturer's directions ‘Use a child’s hand for printing on fabric. In shallow pan, mix paint solution of one drop water and ten drops paint. Dip hand in paint; place on fabric. Press down on fingers and palm: lif: hand straight mp. Teatset paint if recommended by manufacturer,Color & Design Blocking Create a distinctive look with color and design blocking. Choose two or note fabrics co use in one garment plan the fabric arrangement, and cut individual pattern pieces from each fabric. Or trace a pattern piece, cut the traced pattern apart, and cut cach pi Choose a simple pattern design. For variety, you can mix woven a knit fabrics, or solids and prints. different fabric d Gombine colorfast fabrics that are Adapt a pattern. Divide the pattern piece into sections by drawing new similar care requirements, Combine woven and knit fabries, When using a pattern designed for knit fabric, use woven fabric in areas that will not affect wearing ease, such as collars, cuffs, yokes, and pockets ple in weight and have seamlines; cut pattern apart, and add /4" (6 mm) seam allowance at new sears. Join sections before completing the garment. Combine striped fabries. Cut pattern pieces from No or more striped fabrics, each with stripes of a different size. Combine stripes horizontally, vertically, ‘or diagonally 01How to Sew ong side es together nd. Stitch close to cord, using zipper foot; stretch woven fabric sigiatly as you sew. [kim seam allowances to match those of garment Piping Piping adds a decorative touch at garment seams or edges. Use it on pockets, collars, side seams of pant and skirts, shirt yoke seams, and seams of raglan sleeves. Combine piping with color blocking (p: 101) and topstitching for interesting effects, Make piping from either woven or knit fabric Cut woven fabric on the bias; cut knit fabric on the e or lengthwise grain. Use Fabric that is 8 fabric and the cord or yarn used as the filler in the piping efore cutting the fabric strips for pipit ‘whether the piping will be filled or flat. For a soft, yarn-filled piping ora firmer, cord-filled piping, the cith should be at least two seam ces amference of the filler, phis ¥4" (3 mm), Fora flar'A” 3 mm) piping, cut the width ofthe fabric strip at least two seam allowances plus /4” (6 mm). ‘The finished piping seam allowances should be the same width as those of the garment. When using 4” (6 mm) seam allowances on the garment, itis easier ng with 54" (1.5 cm) seam allowances. them later to match the garment. ren s of piping into seam allowance at inconspicuous place, so ends overlap and piping tapers to raw edge. For enclosed seams, such as collar seams, taper piping into seam allowance at intersection of seams, step 2, page 76.How to Prepare Bias Strips bel paar opera: 1) Fold fabric diagonally, so straight 2) Piece strips, if necessary. Pin Single-fold bias tape. Pre edge on crosswise grain is parallel stripsin V shape, with right sides. strip, left. Trim one end to a point. to selvage. Cut on fold for first bias together and short ends aligned. Pull bias strip through bias tape ecige. Use ruler and rotary cutter Stitch Y" (6 mm) seam: press maker; press folds to center as strip to cut 2” (5 cm) strips. seam open. Trim seam allowances comes out end of tape maker even with bias strip. 3) Stitch on seamline. Remove stitching in piping at ends; trim cord in seam allowance. Stitch garment scam over previous stitching line, with piping beiween right sides of garment pieces. Flat piping. Use 1” (2.5 cm) single-fold bias tape for ¥4” (3 mm) finished piping and %” (1.5 cm) seam allowances. Press tape open; fold in half lengthwise, and press. Pin piping to garment, and stitch seam as in steps 2 and 5, left-atchwork ‘Trims Versatile patchwork crimis can be made from small mounts of woven fabric patchwork trim the straight grain for al patchwork trims can be constructed £ 1an Seminole pat ‘cutter and rul or Seminole psHow to Make a Diagonal Patchwork Trim 1) Cut fabric sirips on straight grain the finished width plus two 4” (6 mm) seam allowances. Cut twe sips each of three or mote fabrics: widths of strips may vary. Stitch strips together lengthwise, with right sides together and in desired sequence, repeating che pattern once. How to Make a Seminole Patchwork ‘Trim 2) Press seams in one direction, Cut pieced fabric into bias strips. and 2, page 10 noi to sireich strip. itch strips together as necessary tach to garment, being careful 1) Measure, and cut fabric strips on straight grain the finished width plus wo 14" (mm) seam allowances. Join strips in sequence, right sides together; stitch accurate seams, Press seams in one direction 2) Cut picced fabric into strips, The width of each strip should be equal to the width of center strip as cutin step 1, left 3) Join strips, right sides together; use 14” (6 mm) seams and stagger color blocks to form diagonal attern, Alternate direct strips to help match seams. Edges along sides are staggered. Press seams in one direction 1 Of seam allowances 4) Trim long sides even. To add a border, cut two edging, bands of straight-grain self-fabric or coordinating fabric; stitch to long sides of patchwork tim, right sides together> feds ei Beleeye- let ereDecorating the Nursery ‘When you plan the decor of a nursery, you may want to consider using neutral colors for wallpaper and paint, Save colorfill decorating touches for the accessories, whict ‘can easily be changed or adapted as the child grows, Pastel colors are the traditional choice for a nursery, but do not overlook other choices, such as bold primary colors, You can find many decorating ideas for nurseries in magazines, decorating books, and wallpaper and fabric stores. Select a theme to unify the nursery, and use your creative skills and sewing ability for projects such as appliqué, trapunto, or stenciling. Adorable crib ensembles that include a skit, fited sheet, bumper pad, and coveriet are both afford- able and unique when you sew them yourself, Look for coordina ing fabrics that have all the features a niew baby could want; cheerful colors, soft, cozy surface texture, and washability. Decorator fabrics, though generally labeled “dry clean only’, offer a wide range of design options. Many 100% cortons ‘may be washed successfully, though. TTestwash a sample of the decorator fabric for color retention and to determine the amount of shrink age, and purchase additional Jength as necessary. Preshrink all fabrics and findings before you begin construction. 109Grib Skirt Cri skirts, designed to hide the metal springs under the mattress, can be sewn to match or coordlinate with the bumper pad and coverlet. Unlike the threesiced versions for beds, a crib skirt covers the sides, foot, ‘and head of the crib and splits at each comer to fit ‘over the spring supporis. The directions are for a skirt that deops 14° (35.5 em) below the mattress, though you can make it longer or shorter, if you prefer. To limit the number of seams in the skirt, select ric that can be railroaded. This means that the Tengthwise grain of the fabric runs horizontally around the skirt, The design is then turned sideways, so railroading is only suitable for solid colors or nondireetionsal prints How to Sew a Crib Skirt 1) Turn under and stitch 14" (1.3 em) double-fold hem along lowcr edge of each skirt section, Then turn under and stitch 12” (1.8 cm) doublefold hem ‘on both ends of each section. 3) Align upper edge of one side section to edge of deck, right sides together, matching center marks; place hemmed ends ¥2° (1.3 em) from corners. Pull fon gathering cords, and gather section evenly to fit. Pin in place, Repeat for remaining three sides. 110 3< Cutting Directions Cut the fabric length into Uxee long strips, cutting on the lengthwise grain. The cut width of exch strip is 15” (38 em) for finisherl crib skirt of 147 ). Gut 18” (46 em) from the ends of two of the strips, for the skirt side sections, Cur the remit ing strip in half, for the head and foot sections. Gut the muslin to the same size as the mattress support plus 1" (2.5 em) in each direction, for the deck YOU WILL NEED 44 yd. (6.2 m) fabric that can be railoaded, at least #5" (115. €m) wide, for skirt, 5 m) mmustin, for deck. 2) Zigzag over a cord on the right side at upper edge ofeach section, within seam allowance. Far more control when adjusting gathers, zigzag over a second cord V4” (6 mm) trom first row. Mark center of each side section: repeat for sides of deck, (1.3 em) from raw edges. Se (6 mm) closer to edges, trimming excess, Or stitch again ¥4" (G mm) closer to edges; trim close to stitching, and finish raw edges by rigzaguing. Press seam toward deckBumper Pad To protect baby’s precious head and keep legs and arms from slipping between the side mings of the enb, sew a bumper pad. These bumper pads are designed to fit a crib with an inside measurement of BA" x 31” (187 x 78.5 cm). Extra fabric is allowed in the corers to make it adjustable for slightly larger of smaller cribs. For easy washing, a continuous zipper is inserted in the bottom of the bumper pad to allow he foam inserts to be removed. [f necessary, the nserts can be washed separately, Simply toss them in the washing machine and allow them 10 air-dry 2% Guiting Directions Cut six pieces of foam, 25" x 8° (68.5 Cutsix foam covers from muslin, 25° x 54.8 cm). Cu four 58" % 10" (134.5 x 25.5 em) pieces of fabric for the sides. Cut four 30° 10” (76 25. eam) pieces of fabric for the ends, For the boxing How to Cover Foam Inserts 1) Fold insert cover in half lengthwise. Stitch 4 (1.3 em) seam along long side and one short end. Trim comers. Turn right side out, Repeat for remaining covers. strip, cut 254" (7 cm) fabric strips on the crosswise grain; piece the strips together as necessary to make one 179” (454.7 can) strip. For welting, eut 2° (5 cm) bias strips, and piece them together to make 454 yd. (4.35 m). For the ties, cut 2" (5 em) bias strips, and piece them together to make % yd. (0.7 m) YOU WILL NEED i (0.5m ) fabric: 4% wd, (4.35 m) conding, tor eee ie toe ae soy 163° C1115 ein) Tong, with two. 2) Wrap foam with lightweight plastic; insert into d pull plastic away, Stitch remaining short end elosed; finish raw edges together. rignag stitch. serger orHow to Sew a Bumper Pad cording on wrong side of bias strip. Fold strip over cord, igning raw edges, Using ripper foot on right side of the needle machine baste close to cord, gently sireich’ 2) Fold ed next to folds ch head and side pieves together into two strips for the inside and outside of the bumper pac, asing Y2" (1.8 em) seam allowan images of euch other. Mark « Suips are mirror ters of long sections. 2 oC bias strip for ties to center, using bias-fold maker (page 13 press, Fold str in half again; pre 3) Cut strip into five sections 24 BL em) long and two sections 12 3.5 em) long, Knot both ends of ss, Edgestitch Jong ties and one end of short ties. 5) Cut 162" (411.5 em Mark bar tack placement end of zipper. Oj notch to within 3 em) of mark. of continuous zipper coil 3,8 cm) from one zipper about 1” (2.5 cm), Cut a5)Im © side of ripper coil into shaped end of zipper pull, with flat side of coil und tab of zipper pull facing up; insert other side, gently working coil into zipper pull of welting, 7) Repeat steps 5.and 6 on oppo- site end of viper. Slide zipper 8) Press under 12” (1.3 cm) seam allowance on lower edge of each pulls above marks. Bar tack by strip. Position folded edges alony Figeagging in place over coil at center of zipper teeth, right sides each placement mark to secure 1p: pin, Using zipper foot, topstitch ends of zipper 38” (L cm) from f 10) Stitch centers of Jong ties securely of ouisice bumper pad piece at each just below welting. Stitch rem long side sections. three seams,11) Pin 14) Pin inside and outside bumper pad layers togeth les. Stitch as pintied, starting and stopping abou = 14 short tie to center ofeach 12) Center short end of boxing end of outside bumper pad piece, strip over end of zipper. Stitch 12" ig Taw edges; stitch (1,3 cm) seam starting and stop- ping 49° (1.3 cm) fron es of boxing stripy; backstitch at each. end, Clip side pieces to corners. at vertical seamlines and centers of long xm) from top and bottom of the bumper pad 13) Open zipper partway. Pin one edge of boning stip, tight sides together, to the edges of outside bumper pad; clip al corners. Stic. with boxing side up; pivot at upper corners and end at backstitching, Repeat for other side. 15) Place foam inserts into bumper pad. Zip closed. Tie onto crib.Fitted Crib Sheets ited crib sheets can be coordinated with accessories such as bumper pads or coverlets. Interlock or jersey Knit fabrics work best for comifort and stretchability. Determine the fabric requirement for the size of your mattress. The fabric width equals the mattress width plus two times the depth plus 6° (15 em) for seam allowances and fitted edge. The fabric length equals the matiress length plus two times the mattress depth plus 6” (15 em). The square that is cut from each corner equals the mattress depth phis 3° (7.5 crn), To fit a mattress of 27°%52"%5" (68.5%132%12.5 cm) fora six-year crib, cua 43” x 68" (109 « 173 em) rectangle from 2 yd. (1.85 m) of 60° (152.5 cm) wide knit fabric. The width of the sheet should be om the crosswise grain or the grain with the greacest amount of stretch, Cutan 8° (20.5 cm) square from each corner. How to Sew a Fitted Crib Sheet 1) Cut square from each corner of sheet, as directed above. Fold sheet at each corner, with the right sides together and raw edges even. Stitch Ae (G mm) corner seam on a serger or use a narrow zigzag stitch on 2 conventional machine, 2) Cut two strips of 4" (6 mm) wide clastic 3” (7.5 cm) less than width of mattress, On wrong side of sheet, pin center of elastic to cencer of each short end of sheet. Pin ends of elastic 6" (15 cam) beyond corner seams. 3) Serge or zigzag elastic to the raw edges, asin step 2, page 58. Con. tinue stitching on edges between ends of elastic to finish all rave edges. Turn 4” (6 mm) hem to wrong side of sheet, encasing elastic. ‘Topstitch hem, stretching elastic. U5Crib Coverlets Prequilted panels make the construction of a crib coverlet easy. These printed panels are about 45° (115 cm) wide and 36" 1.5 cm) long. Prequilted fabries may also be used, Fabric layers usually include @ cotton/polyester top fabric thac is quilted to polyester batting. ‘The backing may be brushed nylon tricot or a coordinating print or solid fabric of the same fiber ‘content as the top fabric. To finish the panel edges, use How to Apply Pregathered rim and Bias Tape 1) Pin trim on panel, with wrong side of trim ‘underside of panel, beginning near one corner. Curve end of trim into seam allowance so ends overlap and finished edges taper to raw edge. Ease extra fullness into ruffle at corners, so ruffle lies flat when turned either a pregathered trim and single-fold bias tape ot a coordinating ruffle with attached bias tape Purchase the wim 57 (12.5 cm) longer than the distance around the panel. For easy application of the trim, round all corners of the caverlet, using a dinner plate to form the curve. Stitch around the coverlet a scant 14" (6 mm) from the edges to secure the cut quilting threads and to make it easier to apply the trisn 2) Stiteh 4" (5 mm) from raw edge (as shown) around panel to beginning of wim. Curveend of tim into seam allowance so ends overlap and finished edges taper to raw edge. Trim ends of pregathered trim even with panel edgeHow to Apply a Rufile with Attached Bias Tape 1) Remove sitching for 1" (3.8 cm) on bias tape. Trim excess ruffle even with bias tape. Press 24" (1.3 cm) of ruflle and both tapes to inside, Glue-baste tapes to both sides of ruff. 2) Insert edge of panel into bias tape, right sides up: pin. (Narrower bias tape or side with most attractive Stitching is right side of trim.) Edgestitch tape to panel, beginning 1” (2.5 cm) fram end of tape. 8) Stitch to within 2” (6 cm) from end, Cut excess trim, leaving ¥2" (18 cm); insert into the folded end of trim FE Oe : i 3) Open 2" (1.3 cm) single-fold bias tape; fold under 4" @ mm) at one end. Place tape foldline over trim, ight sides together, on previous stitching; stitch i crease. Lap tape 4" (1.3 crn) over folded end to finish. 4) Finish scitching tape 10 panel, cxerlapping previous stitches. Stit tched portion of other edge of Lupe, overlapping original stitching. Edgestitch ruffle and tape together at opening, _= 4) Tarn tape to right side of panel, encasing raw edges of trim and panel. (It may be necessary to trim seam allowances.) Pin tape in place. Edgestitch free edge of tape to panel, matching needle thread color to tape, und bobbin thread to underside of panelWall Sculptures Dress up the walls of the nursery with padded fabric sculptures. Choose simple outline designs from paper cutouts or coloring books, or use any of the designs on page 121; add details with mac sitching or appliques, Enlarge the design: necessary, using a copy machine or graph pj Personalize the room by spelling out the child's hame in bright padded letters. Enlarge the on page 120 to 12° (30.5 em) for a wall display, or enlarge them to 4” (10 cm) for a smaller ribbon-tied gatland to hang on the door ot outside the crib. Select a firmly woven, mediumweight fabrie for the front of the sculpture and a coordinating or match- ing fabric for the back. Interline the sculptures with Ve" (6 mm) polyurethane foam for firm support or How to Make a Wall Sculpture 1) Fuse any appliques to front, Pin front and back, right sides together, over interlining. Stitch on marked outline. Stitch second row of stitches just outside first row: at comers, taper slitehes into first stitching line 3) Push out corners, using point turner: Press lightly. Cut 4” (10 em ) strip of fusible interfacing, 1” (2.5 em wide; slip under shit, and fuse closed. with 6-02. (175 g) upholst plush look. batting for a more =< Cutting Directions Gut rectangles for the front, back, and inter slightly larger than the patiern, Trace the mirro image of the pattern on the wrong side of the front. sfer any design marks to the right side. you WILL NEED tic iow. Coordinating or matching fabrie fir back, Folymetnane foam, Vt (6 mm) thick or Bea {75 g) sapholn battingy fe iealng: fi _ Smal plate ings, or hanging. ie 2) Trim fabric away to within 46° (3 mm) of stitches. Clip to stitching line at corners. Gat 3° (7.5 em) slit tcrlining and bark; turn right side out. 4) Straightstitch around any appliqués; stitch othe: design lines and add othes desired. Hand-stiteh one or more plastic top to hang.eee oa |Creative Window Toppers Simple lined rectangles are transformed into ador able window toppers. All you need isa little inaye ination. Because the topper hangs flat, it requires minimal fabric, but with a litte Creativity, it becomes the focal point of the wall. Add some personality with appliqués (pages 94 10 97), sewn to the outer fabric before constructing the topper. Sew padded shapes, following the directions for wall sculptures, page 119. Attach them to the topper after construction, using machine or hand stitching. Accent the topper witht colorfu! hurtons and beads, Fora dimensional effect, add batting between the layers, and quilt around the design in the fabric or quilt your own design. Or create interest at the lower edge of the topper with scallops, notches, or points. Attach the window topper to a decorative rod or pole with sev-on or clip-on rings or ribban ties, Position the rod above the window so that the upper edge o| the topper will just cover the upper edge of the window frame, 3< Cutting Directions Cut the outer fabrie and lining with the length and width equal to the desired finished length and width plus 1” (2.5 em) for 42” (1.3.cm) seam allowances On all sides. If piecing is necessary, use one full width of fabric and add equal partial widths to each side, ‘matching the pattern, if any. For a quilted topper, cut batting to the sime size as the fabric. Cut ribbon ties, 24" (61 cm) long, if desired. YOU WILL NEED "Grosgrain ribbon, 74° (2:2 cm) wide, for ibbontied 524" (BL em), per tie:How to Sew a Basic Window Topper sides together, matching ravr edges. Stitch all sic em) oper ing alon, or turning Trim corners diagonally leave 8° ( ‘one side Mark placement for end ties 1” (2.5 em) from sides of top er other ties between marks, evenly spaced 6” to §° (15, to 20cm) apart, Fold ties in half; center one tie over .¢ of onter fabric, Mark placernent for 2) Turn back and pre allowances in opening Insert msaround seam roll, heavy cardboard tube or woolen dovsel i each mark, a 3) Attach sev-on or pin-on rings, spacing to 20.5 cm) apart, with one ai each en them evenly 6” to 8" (15 ng folds to 1op edge of fabric; pin. ce, ¥8" (Lem) from edge, Complete 8 1 to 3, Take care not to catch ribbon tails in stitehiHow to Sew a Quilted Window Topper 1) Mark quilting design on outer fabric, if necessary: use light peneil marks or removable marker, Baste batting to wrong side of outer labric scant 12" (1 from outer edge. Atiach ribbon ties, opposite, if desired. Follow step 1 for basic topper, opposite: trim batting close to stitching. Follow step 2. How to Shape the Lower Edge 1) Draw desired shaping line for lower ecige on. wrong side of outer fabric; add 12" (1.8 em) seam allowances. Attach ribbon ties, opposite, if desired. \ 2) Baste layers 1opether, using safery pins. Machine quilt on marked lines or around shapes in fabric design, using an Even Feed® foot. Remove safety pins, Awtach rings or tie ribbons 2) Continue as in step 1, opposite. Clip to stitching line along curves and inside corners: tim diagonally at outside corners, Finish as in steps 8 and 3,Index A Accessories, infant, 27 Adjusting patterns, 12 Appliques, 94-96 ‘on pockets, 66-67 raw-edge, 97 Armacros+-hack length measurement, 13 B Babies, sce Infants, sewing for Back waistband, on pants and. skirts, 61 Back waist length measurement, 13 Ballpoint needles, 18 Bedroom Decorating, 109-125 create window toppers, 125125 nursery, 109-117 wall sculptures, 119-121 Bias strips, 105) Bias tape, on crib coverlets, L1G-117 Bibs, 27, 3031 Binding, on jumpers, 84-85 Blankets, receiving, 27, 2829 Blanket stitch, on fleece, 80 Blindscitched hem, Bodice on a dress, lining, 71 Bodkin, 18. Baw tic, 86, Bumper pad, for nursery, H L114 Buntings, 27, 36:37 Buttomholes, on fleece, 82 126 Buttons, 19 ‘on fleece, 82 € Checked fabrics, 20 Chest measurement, 18 Choosing children’s dothing. 10 Closures. for fleece, 82 for sclfire snap, 18-19, types. 19 Collars, 74 with lace edging, 77 machine-embroidered, 74-75 mandarin, on kimonos, 35 with piping, 76 prefinished, 4547 Color blocking, 92, 101 Colors for a wardrobe, choosing, 40 Continuous selfbound placket, om kimonos, 34 Goverlets, crib, 16117 Cover stitched hem, 22 Db coverlets, LI6-117 Crib sheets fitted, IIS Grib skirt, 110 Grotch depth measurement, 13 Cuffs lined, adding for grow room, 445 prefinished. 46-47 Custom bibs, 30 Customizing children’s clothing, 10 bibs, 30 kimonos, 84 Caton waisthands, on pants and skiris, 87-59 Cutting fabric Cutting mat, 18 21 D Decorating the nursery, see Nursery decorating Decorative tims, 16 Design blocking, 101 Diagonal patchwork trim, 104105 Double ribbing, 48-49 Doublestitched seam, 23, 42 Dresses, 70-71 collars, F477 finished length measurement, 13 gathers and ruffles, 72-73 Durability, adding, 42-43 gE Edge finishes, for fleece, 80-81 oon jumpers, Jace, on collars, mock binding, 29 on scams, 22°93 turn and stiteh, on jumpers, 85 Edgestitched seam, 33, 42 Elastic, 16 for gathers, waistbands, on pants and skirts, 57.61 Embroidered collar, 7475 Embroidery presser foot, 18 Equipment, 18 Exposed zippers, 5 separating, 8.89 455 F Fabric, flame-setardant, 10, 26 fleece, 79-82 knit, 15, 20, 48-49, 101 laying out, cutting, and marking, 20-21 painting and printing, 98-100 preshrinking, 20 selecting. 1415 types, 15 woxen, 15, 101 Fabrie sculptures, 11-121 Faced patch pockets, 66:67 Filled piping, 102 itted crib sheets, 115 iting patterns, 12 Flame-retardant fabric, 10, 26 Flat bound edge, on fleece, 81 Flat piping, 102-103 Fleece, 7982 French seam, 22, 71 G Gathered patch pocket, 646 Gathers, 72273 General purpose presser foot, 18 Girls’ clothing, see Dresses; Skirts Gripper snaps, 18, 50 ‘on Meece, 82 n shoulder openings, 50 ww room, adding, 10, 4445 | |H Hardware notions, 19 Head measurement, 13 Hems, 22, 42 Hip measurernent, 13 Hooded tosels, 27:29 Hook and loop tape, 19 on fleece, $2 How to use this book, 7 I Infants, sewing for accessories, 27 at Duntings, 27, 36-37 hooded towels, 27-29 kimonos, 27, 3 receiving blankets, 27-29 also see Nursery decorating, Inseam pockets, 69 Inserts and trims, for grow roam, 43 J Jumpers, 83.86 K Kangaroo pocket Kimonos, 27, Knee patches Knit fabrics, 15 ‘combining with woven fabries, 101 lettuce exiging for, 48-49 preshrinking, 20 L Lace edging, on collars, 77 Lapped ribbing, 4849 Layeue, basic, 3637 accessories, 27 bibs, 27, 3031 Duntings, 27, 36-37 hooded towels, 27-99 kimonos, 27, 82-25 ecceiving blankets, Laying out fabrics, 20-21 Lettuce edging, on ribbing and knits, 48-49 Lined culls, adding tor grow room, 14-15) Lining a dress yoke or bodice, 71 M Machine-embroidered collar, 7475, Machinestitched hems, 22, 12 collars, on kimonos, 35, fabrics, 21 Measurements, taking, 13 Metalfil® needles, 18 Mock binding, 20) Mock flacfell seam, 2 Multisized patterns, 12 N Napped fabries, 15 Narrow French seam, 71 ‘arrow zigzag stitched seam, 22 Needles, 18 Notions, 19 Nursery decorating, 100 bumper pad, 1-114 crib coverlets, 116-117 cai skint, 110 fitted crib sheets, 115 ° One-piece Overedge scitched s« Overlocked exge, 01 Oserlock sean am pockets, 69 m, 22 P Painting on fabric, 0-100 Pants, 57-61 finished length measurement, 15) Pawches, 42 knee, 43) Patch pockets, 64.67 Patchwork trims, 104-105 Patterns, adapting, 101 adjusting, 12 fitting, 12 selecting, 12 for wall sculptures, 120-121 ersonalizing garments, 40, 92 ng, 102-103 Dias sirips, 10% on collas, 76 filled, 103) flat, 102-108 Plackets, continuous sellbound, on Kimonos, 34 rugby, 52.53 Plaid fabrics, 20 Pleated patch pocket, 64-65, Pockets, 62-69 faced patch, 66.67 inseam, 68) kangaroo, 62-63, patch, 64-65, Hibbed-top, 626 Polartleece®, 79 Prelinished collar, eufis, ancl waistband, 46-47 Preshrinking fabric, 20 Presser feet, 18 Printing on fabric, 95-100 Pullover bib, 30 Q Quilted window topper, 195 R Raw-erlge appliqués, 97 Receiving blankets, 27-29 Reflective tape, 19 Reinforced seams, 23 Reversible vest with bow tic, 8687 Ribbed ecige on shirts, 48-49 Ribbed-top pocket, 62.69. Ribbing, 17 double, 1949 for grow room, 45 lapped, 4349 lettuce edging for, 18-49 with a prefinished collar, 47 on shirts, 48-49 tubular inethod of applying, 48 Rolled hem, 22Rotary cutter, 18, 21 Rullles, 72-73 ‘on crib coverkets, 117 Rugby plickets, 32.53 s Safety it children’s garments, 10 Scallop edge cut, on Deece, 80 Seam finishes, 22-25) Seams, 22-23, 71 adiling durability, 42 ‘ldressing features, 10 Seminole patchwork trim, 104-105 Separating zippers, 8889 Serger, 18 lor sewing fleece, 79-82 Sewing machine, conventional, 18 Sheets, crib, fitted, 119 Shirts, 46 exposed rippers, 5455 prefinished collar, cufts, ane waistband, 47 ribbed edges, 189 rugby packets, 52 snap closures, 505 Skirts, 57-61 finished Iengih measurement, 3 Sleeve mitts, on kimonos, 35 Sleeves, gathering with elastic, 72 Snaps, 1819, 5051 Special-purpase presser foot, 18 Stenciling om fabric, 98 Stretch bonnd edge, on fleece, 81 aed fabrics, 20 combining, 101 v Taking measurements, 18 Tapes, 19 Tieon bib. $1 ‘Tools, 18 Topstitehed 1 ‘Towels, hooded, ‘Transferring pattern markings, 24 Mais 4, decorative, 16 ‘adding for grow room, 45 patchisork, 104105 pregathered, 116, preshrinking, 20 Tshirts, see Shirts Tubular ribbing, 17, 48 198 9124 ‘Turn and stitch edge finish, on jumpers, 85 ‘Twin needles, 18 ‘Tvinarcedle topstitehed hem, 22, 42 u Understirched seam, 29) Universal point needles, 18 v fest, reversible, with bow tic, 8687 ot punts al skins, 5751 prelinheds abot? whist measurement ES Wall seupeures, 119121 Wardrobe planning 10 Welt ena 88 Window toppers, create, 1284125 Woven fabiis, 15 Combining with Knit fabri, 101 y Yoke on a dress, lining, 71 Zz Zipper presser foot, 18 Zippers. 19) in a bunting, 3597 exposed, 545 separating, 83:89 Creative Publishing ine national, Ine offers a variety of how-to books For information weitet Creative Publishing, international, Ine Subscriber Books 5900 Green Oak Drive Minnetonka, MN 3543Sew for infants, toddlers, and school-age children. Hundreds of colorful photographs inspire you to get creative. Step-by-step instructions show you every detail. usa $1605 ‘areca i ' iii i initia 5 ij I 85. sew baby’s layette and outfit the nursery add inventive features that make clothes fun and grow with the child personalize clothes with appliqués, fancy knee patches, fabric painting, and more design and sew original window toppers and wall sculptures for one-of-akind bedrooms ISBN 0-86573-174-8 = NN ii 75 0863'7 517 (ree =