A YEAR IN VARANASI

Kashi is ever celebrating. Every day is a festival, a ceremony in itself. Here

every day is not the same, and has its own color. A day and time is determined for
all the auspicious activities. Every Tithi (lunar day) and Vra (solar day) has its
own significance. The Vras are known by the names of the planets viz. Somavra
Monday (Soma= Moon), Shukravra Friday (Shukra = Venus), but the Tithis are
known by their position in a Paksha (fortnight) viz. Pratipad (First), Dwitiy
(Second), Saptami (Seventh) etc. The governors of time have themselves
worshiped Shiva, practiced religious austerities for years and years and have
established Lingas in the myths of Kashi. To tell in brief the indefinite and formless
Samaya (time) has concreted and taken a form in Kashi.
The religious life of Kashi is effluent in a specific rhythmic syncopation of
Tithis and Vras, each of which has its own glory and eminence, its own deities
and its own rites. For instance Monday is for Shiva, Tuesday is for Durg and
Thursday is for Vishnu. In the same way the Tritiy (third day) is for goddesses,
Chaturthi (fourth) is for Ganesha, Ekdashi (eleventh) is for Vishnu and
Chaturdashi (fourteenth) is for Shiva. Every day is a wonderful intermixture of
Tithi and Vra. As the day changes, the vividness can be seen in the religious
activities of the city.
Through the changing weathers and months, we witness many festivals and
celebrations across the year. This yearly cycle of festivals has its own pattern and
pace. At one hand, some months are fully bestowed of and dedicated to festivals.
And on the other hand, some months have only a few. Not only some Vras or
Tithis but a full month is dedicated to the deities. Such as the Chaitra (MarchApril) and shwina (September-October) Msas are dedicated to Devis
(goddesses), Jyeshtha (May-June) Msa to Gangji, Shrvana to Shiva, Krtika to
Vishnu and Mrgashirsha (November-December) is dedicated to Bhairava and it
goes on. Describing the religious austerities and activities, and the festivals as well
occurring throughout the year in Kashi, is not only an arduous and audacious task

but is almost impossible because of its complexity and variance as per the
community observing them. However, it is possible to get a general sense of the
festivals in their popular aspect and thus having a glance at the living religious
traditions of the city. We will discuss upon the festivals on the basis of the
particular month and the season of the festivals as they occur. The twelve months
of a Hindu calendar year are
Name of the month
(Hindu Season)

Name in local
language

Western calendar schedule

(Season)

Chaitra (Vasanta)
Vaishkha (Grishma)
Jyeshtha (Grishma)
shdha (Varsh)
Shrvana (Varsh)
Bhdrapada (Varsh)
shwina (Sharada)
Krtika (Sharada)
Mrgashirsha (Sheeta)
Pausha (Sheeta)
Mgha (Sheeta)
Phlguna (Vasanta)

Chaita
Baiskha
Jetha
Ditto
Svana
Bhdo
Kuvr
Ktika
Agahana
Pusa
Ditto
Phguna/Phga

March-April (Spring)
April-May (Summer)
May-June (Summer)
June-July (Rainy)
July-August (Rainy)
August-September (Rainy)
September-October (Autumn)
October-November (Autumn)
November-December (Winter)
December-January (Winter)
January-February (Winter)
February-March (Spring)

Chaitra Chaitra is the first month of the Hindu calendar year. The Hindu
New Year begins from the Chaitra Shukla Pratipada (the first day of the waxing
fortnight in this month) and the Vsantika Navaratra (nine nights related to spring)
initiates. During the period of Navratra, the nine forms of Devi Gauri (fair
goddess) are specially worshiped with classical rituals and rites. On Navami
(ninth), a festival dedicated to Lord Rma, known as Rma Navami (Rmas ninth)
is also observed.
Vaishkha and Jyeshtha The month of Vaishkha informs us about the
advent of the summer season. For the next two-three months, the Sun shows its
ultimate and fiery form. The blows of the dusty storming Luh (hot seasonal wind)

makes the local life very-very ponderous. To get relief from it, M Gang and
M Sheetal are revered and worshiped. In this season, every Krishna Ashtami
(eighth day of the waning fortnight) is dedicated to Sheetal Ji. The Vaishkha
Shukla Saptami (seventh of the waxing fortnight in Vaishkha) and from Jyeshtha
Shukla Pratipad (first of the waxing fortnight in Jyeshtha) to Dashami (tenth), all
the days are known for being associated with the worship of Gang Ji. Dashami is
believed to be the day of the incarnation of Gang on earth from the heavens and
thus it is popularly known as Gang Dashahar (Ganges tenth). It is also believed
that on a par to a whit only, but there is a definite increase in the level of the sacred
Gangjal (the water of Ganges).
shdha, Shrvana and Bhdrapada In the late half of the month of
June, the local populace begin to look at the sky again and again in anticipation of
rain. The first drizzles warding off the adversities of the summer, not only spreads
the coolness but also rejoice. The brilliant blue sky is cloaked with dense-dark rainladen clouds, which is the knock of the most dramatic and alluring weather
throughout the year. Hundreds of small-large streams blending into Gang change
its rippling resonance into a brisk ebullition. Slowly and gradually, the ghats and
their temples are clinched by Gang, one by one. By the beginning of Shrvana, a
venerating luster pervades everywhere in the city. The flocks of Sdhus and
Sanysis (sages and hermits) begin to come into the city to sustain the
Chturmsya (4 month habilitation). During this period, they perform many
religious rites and rituals. The shdha Poornim (the full moon day in the month
of shdha) is popularly known as Guru Poornim, The word guru means too
much. Just to have a glimpse the Bhrgavas Standard Illustrated Dictionary of the
Hindi Language (Hindi-English Edition, Bhrgava Book Dipo; Varanasi, 1997; pg.
203, word no. 27, 1st column) defines many, some of it are adj. heavy, large,
eminent, respectable, esteemed, exalted, best, excellent, honorable, major,
important, N. mas. A teacher, a master, a spiritual guide, a religious instructor, a
tutor, a pastor, the planet Jupiter Brihaspati, the Nakshatra (constellation of stars)

Pushya, one who explains law and theology to his disciples, a long syllable,
Vishnu, Shiva etc. It even has some negative definitions too like cunning, clever,
and flamboyant. On this day, every body who has learnt the lesson of his life,
from his Guru, surely visits him at his place. This tradition is still in vogue widely.
The shdha Shukla Ekdashi (11th of the waxing fortnight in shdha month), is
known as Deva Shayani Ekdashi (Gods sleeping eleventh). According to the
traditional belief, on this day Vishnu and other gods go to their sleep and wake up
on Prabodhini Ekdashi occurring on Krtika Shukla Ekdashi (the 11th of waxing
fortnight of Krtika). During these four months, all auspicious ceremonies and rites
are not performed because of Vishnus resting status (sleeping). The entire
Shrvana is devoted and dedicated to Shiva and is of course under his special
jurisdiction. Monday is the most auspicious day during Shrvana. A Shrvana with
five Mondays is considered a very special one. The darshan-pujan (having a
glimpse of the idol and performing rites) of Gauri-Kedra is said to be much
beneficial. Vishwantha temple is overwhelmed with devotees all the month and
especially on Mondays. Because of the Sdhus, Kwariys, and huge number of
outsider devotees, the city seemingly turns Shivamaya (abounding to Shiva) and
realizes the phrase Kankar-kankar me Shankara, meaning Shiva is in every
single particle of Kashi. During this month, the fair of Durgkunda is also
observed. The Tuesdays are dedicated to Durg Ji during this period. This fair
attracts thousands of devotees from the city and the nearby rural areas as well. The
Jhki (religious peep) in the Tulsi Mnasa temple persuasively draws the attention
of the devotees. Shrvana Shukla Panchami (fifth of waxing fortnight in Shrvana)
is celebrated as Nga Panchami (Cobras fifth). The affiliation with snakes
symbolizes Shiva only. Kushti-Dangala (wrestling matches), Jodi-Gad (a type of
heavyweight dumbbell and club) competitions are held by various Akhds
(traditional wrestling ground and gymnasium) on this day. Pictures of cobras and
snakes are stuck on the gates of houses. The snake charmers wander all over and
earn alms. One special thing to mention is that during Shrvana, peoples attraction

is focused to the city which once again turns to Gang on the Shrvana Poornim
(the full moon day of Shrvana). This is the annual day of repentance. Groups of
Brhmins bathe several times in Gang and perform austerities while they change
their Yajopavita (a sacred thread worn around the torso by the upper caste in
Hindus and especially by Brhmins) while uttering Mantras and store more of it
for the coming year for use on several occasions. The general people know this day
as Raksh-Bandhana (Tying the Amulet) or Rkhi. Sisters tie decorated threads on
the wrists of their brothers and pray for their long life while the brothers present
gifts to their sisters and take owe to protect them throughout the life. Even the
Priests tie threads on their Yajmnas (Patrons) wrist and collect their Dakshin
(honorarium fee). Bhdrapada is considered as the last month of the rainy season.
During this month, Tritiy (third day), popularly known as Teeja, has special
importance. The Krishna Tritiy (third of waning fortnight) is observed as Kajali
Teeja (Dark third). Unlike the other Teejas celebrated throughout the year, which
are associated with husbands, this one is associated with brothers only, and is
limited only to Varanasi and some nearby areas. The Krishna Ashtami (eighth of
waning fortnight) is observed as Krishna Janma (birth of Lord Krishna) and thus
known as Janmshtami also. Jhankis are decorated in various temples and shrines
of the city. Beside that the police stations and jails are also decorated as the myth
that Krishna was born in jail where his mother and father were prosecuted by his
maternal uncle Kansa, the king of Mathura. The police headquarter is also
decorated and various cultural programs are organized. The Shukla Tritiy, (third of
the waxing fortnight) is observed in form of Haritlik Teeja. Women fast on this
day for long life of their husbands and unmarried girls to get a good man as
husband. This fast is considered as the hardest and best to observe as there is no
permission to even drink a drop of water until the next morning after the sunrise. It
is also known as the birthday of the Vindhyawsini Devi (Goddess dwelling on
Vindhya mountain Kooshmnd<Shakti deities of Varanasi>). Shukla Shashthi
(sixth of waxing fortnight) is known as Lolrka Shashthi. An annual fair is

observed at the Lolrka Kunda situated in Bhadaini area. Tens of thousands

devotees desiring for a male child take bathe in this Kunda on this day. Two days
later, on the occasion of Mahalakshmi Ashtami (Lakshmis eighth) the sixteen day
fair renowned as Sorahiya Mel (Sixteen day fair) is finalized. On the same day,
mothers observe the fast of Jeevitputrik (related to sons long life), which is a very
tough one to observe. It is also known as Jiutiy.
shwina and Krtika the month of shwina begins with a fortnight
dedicated to the deceased ancestors which is known as Pitripaksha (fortnight of
fathers). People organize Shrddha (act of fidelity) for dedicating Tarpana (libation
of water and sesame to the deceased ancestors) to their forefathers. The ghats are
full of people as well as the Manikarnik Kunda and Pishchamochan Kunda are
also crowded with large number of people for Shrddha. As the Pitripaksha ends,
the shwina Shukla Pratipad (first of waxing fortnight of shwina) brings the joy
of the Shradiya Navartri (nine nights of autumn) which is the official
announcement of the festive season. For the next nine days and nights the nine
forms of Durg viz. Shailputri, Brahmachrini, Chandraghant, Kooshmnd,
Skandamt, Ktyyini, Klartri, Mahgauri and Siddhidtri are worshiped.
Kalashas are established in houses. Many religious clubs and organizations
establish splendid idols of Durg and after Navaratri, the idols are discharged in
Gang Ji on the right day. During this month Rmalil is also observed at some
places in the city. Some of these are Chitrakoota, Tulsight and Rmanagar. The
Rmalil is not just a medium of amusement for the people but it symbolizes the
unfathomable veneration of the local people towards religion. After celebrating the
Vijay Dashami (Victorious Tenth), around 19-20 days later, Deepwali is
observed. This festival is of three days which consists of Dhanterasa (increasing
thirteenth), Chhoti Deepwali (deepawali eve) and Deepwali on Krtika Krishna
Trayodashi (thirteenth), Chaturdashi (fourteenth) and Amwasy (no moon day),
respectively. The next two days are observed as Annakoota (mountain of food) and
Yama Dwitiy (Yamas second), which is popularly known as Bhaiy Dooja

(Brothers second). On Krtika Shukla Ekdashi (eleventh of the waxing fortnight

of Krtika), Prabodhini Ekdashi (Awaking Eleventh) is observed and the
Chturmsya beginning from shdha Shukla Ekdashi is finalized. On Poornim
(full moon day), Deva Deepwali (Gods Deepawali) is observed. From Asi to
dikeshava, all the ghats glimmer with light of infinite lamps and the reflection of
the light causes an illusion of the mesmerizing heaven brought to earth in reality.
Mrgashirsha, Pausha and Mgha The festive season beginning from
the Krtika now slows down in its pace. Mrgashirsha is devoted to Bhairava.
From Pratipad to Ashtami, the eight forms of Bhairava viz. Ruru Bhairava,
Chanda Bhairava, Asitnga Bhairava, Kapli Bhairava, Krodhan (Lta)Bhairava,
Unmatta Bhairava, Samhra Bhairava and Bhoota Bhairava are worshiped. On
Ashtami, a splendid and alluring Shringra of Kla Bhairava is organized. On
14th/15th of January, when the Sun comes into the Capricorn zodiac known as
Uttaryana, the holy observation of Makara Sankrnti (Capricorn connection).
People bathe into Gang Ji and eat sesame food. It is also known as Khichadi (a
type of food prepared with rice, lentils and sesame seeds). People also fly Kites.
Mgha is also meant for bathing in Gang Ji just like the Krtika and Vaishkha
months. Amwasy and Poornim are special days to bathe. The Mgha Shukla
Panchami (fifth of waxing fortnight) is observed as the welcoming festival for the
Vasanta season, the Vasanta Panchami. Goddess Saraswati is worshiped on this
day. On the same day the first wood is settled at the place of Holik and the
countdown to Holi begins.
Phlguna and Chaitra With the beginning of Phlguna, the claws of
winter are loosened. On the Krishna Chaturdashi, the famous and one of the most
significant festival of Varanasi Mahshivartri is observed. We witness the
presence of Shiva in every particle of Kashi. The Shiva temples are beautifully
decorated and are densely crowded. Shukla Ekdashi is observed as the Rangbhari
Ekdashi (Colorful Eleventh) as the official announcement of the beginning of
Holi. On Chaturdashi, when the Holik is set to fire, the next morning on

Poornim, Holi is celebrated. Multi-colored people return to home by the mid day
and take bath. In the evening, people wear new clothes and meet near and dear ones
with Abir and Gull (dry color) and congratulate each other on this auspicious
festival. After the Krishna Paksha of Chaitra, the Hindu new year begins.
It has been said that Kashi is beyond time. Free from the doomsday. The
reason for Kashi being beyond time is much because of its quaint and unique
culture and lifestyle than the religious and spiritual factors. Kashi is in the ambit of
time but free from it, it is Avimukta (never forsaken). This is the greatness of Kashi,
which is unbreakable and indifferent from the people of Kashi
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------References:
Eck, Diana L.; Banaras: City of Light, London, 1983, 252-282.