Canadian Jeweller Magazine September October 2008

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CJ
SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008
125
OVER YEARS
IN THE BUSINESS OF
RETAILING JEWELLERY
Holiday Trends
STYLES AND CATEGORIES
YOU NEED TO STOCK
CANADIAN JEWELLER
canadian jeweller
magazine
Original G.
MASTER DESIGNER
SIMON GHANIMIAN SPEAKS
E xcellence in Design:
SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008
THE WINNERS ARE…

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A NEW LOOK AT COLOURED
PLUS: DIAMOND FLUORESCENCE
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 104.
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CANADIAN JEWELLERY SHOW SPECIALS
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ESTABLISHED 1879 SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008 • VOL . 129, NO . 5

Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
Sonia Lowe Assistant to the President | sonia@rivegauchemedia.com
Bryan Soroka Director, Editorial & Communications | bryan@rivegauchemedia.com

Emily Saso Associate Editor | emily@rivegauchemedia.com
Nikki Yeh Associate Editor | nikki@rivegauchemedia.com
Lisa de Nikolits Creative Director | art@rivegauchemedia.com

Stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com
Leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Christine Ager-Smyth Production Manager | production@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com
CONTRIBUTORS Glen A. Beres, Robin Gambhir, Scott Jordan,

Daniel Marquez, Tim Mogg, Duvall O’Steen,
Russell Shor, Ania Sroka
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EMAIL lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
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Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 141550 The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of
any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The
publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s
liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part,
without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial con-
sideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or
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Canadian Jeweller magazine.
8 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

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table of
Contents
September • October 2008 66
Features
63 Making an Impression
Establishing your business with an effective store design.
66 Going that Extra Mile

Behind the scenes at Mindham Fine Jewellery.
72 Excellent by Design
The winners of this year’s Excellence in Design competition.
78 Shades of Glory
The fine details behind coloured diamond fluorescence.
82 A Gold Statement
Just how profitable is the Canadian gold jewellery market?
86 Brand and Deliver Part II: Your Brand in Action

Building a strategic marketing and merchandising plan.
90 Trends in the Making

Favourites for the fall and holiday seasons.
94 JCK Toronto: Canada’s Leading Jewellery Trade Show

Behind the scenes at this year’s exciting exhibitor booths.
82
72

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table of
Contents
59
September • October 2008
Departments
14 Director’s Note 46 Bench Feature
Handling coloured gems.
16 Product Showcase
48 Designer Profile
22 Who’s News Simon G.
Western Canadian Jewellery Expo announces the
passing of Russ Wickstrom; New Head Designer for 52 Face Value
Platinum Unlimited; Chairman announced for Considering all the factors in cost and value.
Canadian Jewellers Association.
56 Company Profile
26 For the Record Rare & Precious Gems
OMEGA releases special update; Ernst Benz introduces
Beijing 2008 Chronoscope; Stuller launches new 59 Market Watch
wedding band. Geomarketing
34 Stock Index 88 Star Watch

Trends for the Emmy red carpet.
36 Mining News
Gem ban could hurt Burmese miners; Ontario 96 What’s On
Mining Association plans workshop; Peregrine finds
diamonds at Nunavut site. 98 Showcase
38 Mining Feature 100 Market Place
What makes a diamond truly Canadian?
104 Fax Back
42 Tech News
Scale weighs gold atoms; eDiamondselect’s latest 105 Last Word
program; new simultaneous diamond and
moissanite tester.
44 Tech Feature
GV Design Canada promotes latest software.

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director’snote
Photo: Davide Bagnoral
Simply Brilliant
Canadian Jeweller Magazine’s Excellence in Design competition has earned a
reputation as one of Canada’s premiere design events. In fact, it’s Canada’s only
national jewellery design competition, and we’re very proud to be in the position to
help designers from across the country showcase their collective masterpieces.
This year’s competition was bigger and better than ever, as we were all treated to
some of the most unique and remarkable precious works to be found anywhere in the
world. You can find out who took home the “hardware” on page 72. To celebrate all of
the entrants, we held the first of what will be many gala events at the close of JCK
Toronto, where competitors and key industry members gathered for a few drinks and
some good food, as we all celebrated a truly remarkable show. Thanks to all who
attended, and we look forward to seeing you again next year.
Until then, enjoy this latest issue of CJ, which continues our renewed commitment
to focusing on the business of jewellery. You’ll be pleased to note we’ve added yet
another regular feature, Designer Profile, which in this case, tells the tale of master
craftsman, Simon G. We’re also excited to have Myles Mindham of Mindham Fine
Jewellery gracing our cover, and we’re “tickled pink” to enlighten you on the latest
happenings at Rare & Precious Gems.
As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions, and look forward to
playing a critical role in helping you realize all your business objectives.
To your success,
Bryan Soroka
Bryan Soroka
Director, Editorial & Communications

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productshowcase
Quartz Collection
Siffari is proud to introduce the Quartz Collection. All items are
available in a variety of brilliant colours; Lemon, Light Yellow, Mint
Green, Olive and Cognac. Siffari products can be customized in 10K,
14K or 18K white or yellow gold. Suggested retail pricing ranges
from $550 - $2,000. For more information, write 110 on the Free
Info Card on page 104.
Canadian Eskimo Arctic Ice Diamonds

Eskimo Arctic Ice Diamonds is one of Canada’s oldest and
most recognized brands of Canadian diamonds. Each diamond
is laser engraved and triple certified, allowing your customer to
track the true origin of his or her symbol of everlasting love.
Eskimo Arctic Ice Diamonds are guaranteed Canadian through
the Canada Mark tracking process. For more information,
write 111 on the Free Info Card on page 104.
Firetrace
GS Laboratories introduces Firetrace,
which now makes it possible for clients to
accurately measure the light performance
of their diamonds. This technology
analyzes the light-reflecting properties of
a diamond and allows you to determine
how much life is in your stones — one
more way that GS Laboratories can help
you ensure your diamonds stand out in a
crowd. For more information, write 112
on the Free Info Card on page 104.

productshowcase
Mirage Cut Eternity Band

The Mirage Cut Eternity Band is custom-made with
perfectly matching diamonds. Individual diamond sizes
range from 0.15 ct to 5.00+ ct each. Also available in half
eternity, earrings, pendants and solitaire diamonds.
Each Mirage Cut Diamond is a brilliant work of art, with
33 carefully cut facets to create a beautiful array of fire
and brilliance, which is easily visible by the naked eye. For
more information, write 114 on the Free Info Card on
page 104.
Pink Diamonds
Pink Diamonds by Rare & Precious Gems symbolize glamour,
feminine beauty, and are believed to inspire creative
expression making them the premiere choice of Hollywood
stars. Argyle Pink Diamonds, sold through an exclusive tender,
are truly one-in-a-million gems coveted by luxury jewellery
retailers, celebrities and private collectors. For more
information, write 115 on the Free Info Card on page 104.
Pour Homme
Pour Homme, the new men’s jewellery line from
Gee n Gee Importers, is a collection of over 30
unique styles. Each design features bold lines
inspired by the virtues of strength, distinction
and success. This contemporary men’s line is
handcrafted with regard to quality. For more
information, write 116 on the Free Info Card on
page 104.

productshowcase
PANDORA Mix and Match

PANDORA introduces a brand new type of earring
that lets you create the right look to match your
mood, that special occasion or the hottest fashions.
The earrings consist of a number of hoops in
sterling silver and 14K gold and no less than 74
different charms. For more information, write 118
on the Free Info Card on page 104.
The Hallmark of Quality Canadian Diamond

Specialists in D to F colour, top makes and outstanding
service, with 30 years of uncompromising grading
standards, Regal protects the retailer with consistency,
and guarantees its grading by any laboratory in the
world. The Hallmark of Quality Canadian Diamond
complies 100% with the Canadian Diamond Code of
Conduct and monitors the whole process of mining,
production and cutting under one operation. For more
information, write 119 on the Free Info Card on page 104.
Rio Tinto Diamonds

Rio Tinto Diamonds represents the diamond mines
of the Rio Tinto Group, one of the world’s leading
mining companies. Through its 100% ownership of
the Argyle mine, Rio Tinto is the world’s largest
supplier of champagne diamonds, producing
approximately US$150 million of rough champagne
diamonds annually. Argyle produces more than 90%
of the world’s rare pink diamonds and they are sold
in a broad range of colours and sizes, with the best
stones, the Signature Stones, reserved for the annual
Pink Diamond Tender. For more information,
write 120 on the Free Info Card on page 104.

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For details, write #113 on Free Info Page, page104.

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who’snews
Find out who is

CJA Announces Garo
making headlines in Baler as Chairman
The Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) is
the jewellery industry. pleased to announce the appointment of
Garo Baler as Chairman of the Board of
Directors for 2008-2009. Garo’s experience
in the jewellery business dates back to 1963,
Remembering Russ Wickstrom when he worked as an apprentice in a
It is with profound sadness that the jewellery shop before opening his first tiny
Western Canadian Jewellery Expo announces store in a bustling covered bazaar in 1969 in
the passing of one of its founding his native Istanbul, Turkey.
members, Russ Wickstrom. Garo’s proud Armenian heritage encouraged
Russ was a longtime member of the a sense of youthful wanderlust. His career as
Alberta Jewellery Travellers Association. a jeweller took him to Italy and Belgium
Rachel Tucker
During his career, Russ held various where he was involved in the gold jewellery
positions on local and national boards. and diamond trade between Europe and the
He was President of the Canadian Jeweller New Head Designer for Middle East. His work-related travels eventually
Travellers Association and, most recently, Platinum Unlimited led him to Canada, his final destination. In
Vice President of the Alberta Commercial Platinum Unlimited is pleased to announce 1981, Garo, along with his brother Raffi,
Travellers, St. Albert branch. He preferred the appointment of Rachel Tucker as Head established Armcan Sales Ltd. Both brothers
to be the man behind the scenes and not Designer of its Platinum Art division. Born knew that product differentiation was key for
in the limelight, so he spent many hours in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Rachel moved to a new wholesaler just starting out in a highly
volunteering getting the job done. Calgary, Alberta, in 1995 to pursue her competitive Canadian industry, especially
Russ was born August 11, 1936, in Gull education in the field of Commercial Art. during an economic downturn.
Lake, Saskatchewan. He married Leslie She graduated from the Alberta College of This year, Armcan is celebrating its 27th
Machan on March 4, 1958. He is survived Art and Design in 1999 with a Bachelor of year in business and has established itself
by his wife of 50 years, daughter Tracey Fine Arts degree, majoring in Visual as an authority in providing a complete
Carnochan (Terry), Patricia Wickstrom and Communications and Illustration. selection of jewellery programs nationwide.
nephews Tyler and Ryan Carnochan. He Since childhood, Rachel has had an Garo originally served on the CJA Board in
was predeceased by daughter, Cheryl. Russ immeasurable passion for design, sketching the ’90s and was re-elected to the Board
was very family-orientated and loved fashion and jewellery pieces from an early in 2005. He served as Treasurer on the
vacations, whether it be family reunions age. After graduating, she worked in fashion Executive Committee in 2007.
or trips to Mexico. and freelance illustration before she began
her career in fine jewellery design in 2002.
She quickly earned a reputation as a
premiere designer, working with some of
the finest jewellers in Western Canada.
Rachel is equally at home with both
modern and traditional designs. Her work
often reflects her special interest in jewellery
of previous eras, from ancient Egypt to
Art Nouveau to ’50s Modern and
romantically re-interpreting it for the
21st century. “My background in illustration
has been a tremendous benefit,” she has
been quoted as saying. “Customers love
having the personal touch of a drawing or
gouache rendering of their piece of
jewellery, especially when we have worked
together on the design process.”
Garo Baler
Russ Wickstrom

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who’snews
Supermodel Cindy Crawford made a

live appearance in Beijing.
Omega Appreciates Crawford Roger Dubuis Names New CEO Several limited edition items are created
OMEGA discovered exactly how many Richemont and Swiss watch company, each year based on objects Gurhan has
members of the media its pavilion on the Roger Dubuis SA, have appointed Matthias collected, such as an Egyptian scarab or
Olympic Green would accommodate when Schuler as Chief Executive Officer of the gold coin. Celebrity fans of Gurhan include
its longest-serving brand ambassador, watch brand, effective immediately. Jennifer Lopez, Courtney Cox Arquette
supermodel Cindy Crawford, made a live Schuler was previously Chief Operating and Gwen Stefani.
appearance in Beijing on August 14, 2008. A Officer of IWC, where he developed
crush of photographers and television film significant expertise in the Swiss watch Corum Names Serge
crews surrounded Crawford as she industry. Carlos Dias, the founder, primary Weinberg Chairman
and OMEGA President, Stephen Urquhart, shareholder and former Chief Executive Corum has announced the appointment of
took the stage with bilingual moderator, Officer of Roger Dubuis SA, has reportedly Serge Weinberg as its new Chairman of the
Lynn Ding. left the Company. Board, replacing the recently deceased
Stephen Urquhart spoke warmly about Severin Wunderman. Weinberg is the
the many years OMEGA has worked with Goldsmith Steps Behind Camera former Chairman of the management board
the model, saying “Cindy Crawford A goldsmith and 24-karat gold jewellery of the Pinault-Printemps-Redoute Group, an
embodies the qualities and virtues which designer has stepped behind the camera for umbrella company for a group of brands
make her an ideal spokesperson for our his new advertising campaign, reports that include the Gucci Group and Puma.
brand – she is credible and reliable and she WWDMarkets. Gurhan — who is only “I welcome Serge Weinberg to our Corum
has contributed substantially to OMEGA’s known by the one name — said, “I’ve been Board,” Michael Wunderman, Creative
profile as a fashion brand. These have been practicing photography since the beginning Director of the board and son of Severin
13 very happy years.” After their out of necessity, now it’s a hobby.” The Wunderman, said in a media release. “My
presentation from the OMEGA stage, photographs are artistic ensembles of father’s passing was a sudden shock and
Stephen Urquhart gave Cindy Crawford a his pieces and cover all the collections he an incredible loss. My family and I are
tour of the OMEGA pavilion, where she has created. fortunate to have my father’s dear friend
spent time at the watchmakers’ bench and According to Gurhan, he first fell in love Serge join us to continue the success of
visited some of the other exhibits in the with gold when he saw a sheet of pure Corum and honour my father’s legacy as
display area. 24-karat gold at a Turkish souk 14 years a pioneer in the Swiss watch industry.
ago. From this, Gurhan (who is Turkish) Working together, I am confident that we
started to study ancient techniques in will continue the success of Corum as one
jewellery making and developed his of the fastest-growing luxury watch
signature style of hammering the soft metal. companies in the world.” [CJ]

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LIFE HAS
IT S M OMENT S ...
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UNF O RG E TTA B L E
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news trends events
A. Jaffe Creates Fashion Jewellery Ernst Benz Introduces Beijing 2008

A. Jaffe is premiering a new range of bridal Chronoscope
and fashion jewellery that hits stores across Ernst Benz recently launched the Beijing 2008
the U.S. in October. This is the first time in Limited Edition Chronoscope to
the Company’s 100-year history that they are commemorate Beijing’s historic year. This
debuting a fashion jewellery collection. The introduction marks a new series that will be
underlying theme behind the new jewellery released bi-annually to celebrate the great
designs is “every occasion is special.” The new cities of the world. In designing this
collections are meant to inspire and remind timepiece, Leonid Khankin, Ernst Benz
consumers that the every day moments in life Designer and Managing Director, found
are the most worthwhile. With over 50 new inspiration in Chinese numerology and the
pieces, the new collections features rings, number eight, a continuous and perfectly
pendants, earrings, bracelets and bangles symmetrical number that is a sign of
ranging in price from $1,000.00 to $8,000.00. prosperity and wealth in Chinese culture.
cuff bracelets on display at the ROM “Evolving over the last 100 years, the Designed and manufactured in Switzerland,
A. Jaffe brand is proud to bring our this limited edition chronoscope is available
The Nature of Diamonds customers quality fashion jewellery that is exclusively in Ernst Benz’s signature 47mm
The Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) is very luxurious, yet still affordable,” says Sam size with two different dial executions: noir
proud to present The Nature of Diamonds, Sandberg, CEO of A. Jaffe. “We will continue (black) and vermilion (China red) with both
the most wide-ranging exhibition ever to produce quality bridal jewellery as well as versions limited to only 88 pieces hand-finished
developed on the allure of diamonds. expand on our design processes. We intend in brushed stainless steel.
From Saturday, October 25, 2008 to to evolve our product offerings as seen in the
Sunday, March 22, 2009, the exhibition new fashion lines so that the legacy that is
will be displayed in the Garfield Weston A. Jaffe continues for generations to come.” Martin Flyer Brand Wins JA Golden Apple
Exhibition Hall, located on Level B2 in the Martin Flyer won the 2008 JA Golden Apple
ROM’s Michael Lee-Chin Crystal. At this Fusion Award, which was announced at the
time, the ROM is the sole Canadian Charles & Colvard Announce summer 2008 JA (Jeweler’s of America) trade
venue to host the exhibition during its Authorized Retailers show. The Fusion Award honours the
exclusive North American tour. Today’s shoppers are using the web to exhibitor who successfully coordinated
The Nature of Diamonds is one research and buy jewellery more than ever promotions, advertising and publicity
prominent component of the ROM’s before, which is why Charles & Colvard, Ltd. programs with a consistent message.
A Season of Gems. Another notable has launched, “The Moissanite created by In early 2008, Martin Flyer launched
element is the Teck Cominco Suite of Charles & Colvard™ Authorized Internet “The Inseparable Campaign,” a strategic
Earth Sciences Galleries, scheduled to Retailer Program.” This new program is a public relations, advertising, marketing
open in December 2008. This 6,900 joint effort between Charles & Colvard and and promotional initiative for its FlyerFit
square-foot permanent gallery space select retailers. All the new e-commerce collection – a series of engagement ring and
will showcase the ROM’s exceptional retailers in the program are established wedding band sets designed to fit together
specimens of minerals, gems, rocks, and Internet organizations and have been perfectly. Under the tagline, “When Two
meteorites, a collection among the finest prescreened, met the program criteria and Become One,” the Company launched an
in North America. Occupying the entire have been sponsored by a Charles & Colvard innovative new print advertisement featuring
length of the second floor of the Weston distributor or manufacturer. an illustration of a “perfect couple” whose love
Family Wing, the Teck Cominco Suite is For customers, shopping for moissanite mirrors the perfect fit of FlyerFit sets. Martin
divided into the Vale Inco Limited Gallery through the authorized Internet retailer Flyer also launched its PR campaign for the
of Minerals, the Canadian Mining Hall of program helps ensure satisfaction and year, generating news-based press releases and
Fame Gallery and the Gallery of Gems authenticity of the moissanite they executing an entire brand messaging and
and Gold. The fascinating displays are purchase. Plus, by using the select group of image overhaul. The ongoing press outreach
contextualized and illuminated by over 50 retailers, it guarantees that the customer’s and advertising spreads have resulted in
interactive touch stations and compelling purchase is accompanied by the Charles & exposure and visibility in some of the top
video exhibits. Colvard Certificate of Authenticity and trade and consumer magazines, including
Limited Warranty. Brides, Modern Bride and InStyle.

fortherecord
Romanian Gold Smugglers to be Tried The Rivoli Group has a network of retail New Pearl Pendants for Larger Pearls
A group of people who allegedly attempted outlets in the United Arab Emirates and Findings, Incorporated has introduced three
to smuggle ancient gold bracelets out of lower Gulf States. It is one of the Middle new pearl pendant findings for larger
Romania are to be tried, reports the East’s largest importers and retailers of pearls. These new designs accommodate
International Herald Tribune. Between luxury brands, dealing in items such as 8mm and up sizes including Tahitian
1996 and 2005, the 10 individuals watches, pens, accessories and eyewear. Last pearls. Available in 10, 14k, 18k yellow
apparently stole an assortment of jewellery year it was named Premium Luxury Retailer or white gold. Findings, Incorporated
and coins to be sold on the international of the Year at the Retail ME Awards. The is a leading producer of precious metal
black market. The artifacts were swiped Group also won the Branding Award of the findings, offering a broad range of style
from Sarmizegetusa Regia, which is an Year at the CEO Middle East Awards. options for manufacturers and wholesalers
archaeological site owned by the government since 1945.
in the north west of Romania.
Prosecutors for the case said the
defendants will be charged “with illegally New Design from Rainbow
digging at a historical site, concealing stolen Rainbow e-motion of colors is an innovative
goods and stealing items of national and absolutely new style and form of
heritage.” The 15 2,000-year-old spiral-shaped visualizing time on analogous timepieces.
gold bracelets taken from the dig are said to The new design, implementing aesthetically
have been the most valuable objects taken. appealing colours, lends a refreshingly new
Only nine have been recovered so far and meaning to the expression, “nice time.”
these are valued together at a minimum of The concept, in its form and variety
three million euros. Over 30 more people of colours, was developed by the famous
are being investigated as part of the case. German artist, Paul Heimbach. The
glorious play of colours and their
characteristic emotional features led him
DTC Releasing More Money For Ads to time-steered colour pattern and displays.
The Diamond Trading Co. (DTC) is Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond watch Optically, the exceptionally striking
releasing a “special allocation” of co-op designs are excellently suited for reading
marketing funds to help boost U.S. holiday James Bond 007 Collector’s analogous time. All designs were created
sales of diamond jewellery for a select group Piece is Back using the four basic colours: cyan, magenta,
of sightholders. OMEGA will be releasing a special yellow and black.
According to DTC spokeswoman, update of the incredibly popular
Louise Prior, the funds came as the result Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond
of a request from sightholders for more watch. Visually striking, the James AGTA Spectrum Awards Adds
marketing support for their retailers during Bond 007 collector’s piece features a Consumer’s Choice Honors
the fourth quarter this year. She pointed out polished, lacquered black dial with The American Gem Trade Association
that the funds are not part of any kind of black gold plated hour markers filled (AGTA), in conjunction with MVI
generic marketing campaign for diamonds. with white Super-LumiNova. The Marketing, is introducing the Consumer’s
The DTC, which is the marketing arm of luminous hour and minute hands are Choice Honors to its 2009 AGTA
De Beers, has cut back on generic diamond also plated with black gold. The watch Spectrum Awards.
advertising recently because De Beers no has a central seconds hand with a red AGTA will automatically enter all
longer controls the majority of the world’s tip and a red “007” logo as a participants in the AGTA Spectrum Awards
supply of diamonds. counterweight, which rotates in stark into the Consumer’s Choice Honors, which
contrast to its black dial. Only 10,007 are sponsored by MVI’s Jewelry Consumer
pieces of this exclusive Seamaster will Opinion Council (JCOC). There will be no
Exclusive New Collection Unveiled be produced. Paying tribute to OMEGA’s additional entry fee for these new honours.
A new jewellery range using several types of long partnership with the world’s AGTA will forward to MVI all the details of
gold has been unveiled by the Rivoli Group. favourite secret agent, it is destined to each entry, along with quality digital
The luxury retailer, which was founded in be an instant collector’s item. The photography for Internet display. The
1988, has announced a new collection of watch has a distinctive polished and JCOC will then create, develop and deploy
white and yellow gold inset with precious brushed stainless steel case with a a consumer market-research study that will
stones such as sapphires, diamonds and diameter of 41mm. Its specially designed be focused on selecting winning choices for
topaz. The new items include bracelets, bracelet is unique to the James Bond the Consumer’s Choice Honors awards.
earrings, pendants and rings for women. watches and is one of the features that One consumer-selected winning style will
Ramesh Prabhakar, Managing Partner at the makes it immediately recognizable. be identified in the same five categories of
firm, said the new range will “cater to the Also, the watch has a scratch-resistant, the traditional AGTA Spectrum Awards:
constant demand in the market for elegant anti-reflective domed crystal. Bridal, Business/Day Wear, Classical,
jewellery of high quality.” Evening Wear and Men’s Wear.
SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008 CJ 27

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The JCOC will make a presentation to the The ornamental pattern is one of the oldest The FTC’s proposal, filed on February 20,
five winning designers at the AGTA GemFair forms used in the decoration of the human would revise the guides for the jewellery,
Tucson in February 2009 during the AGTA environment. Ornamental patterns consist precious metals and pewter industries to
Spectrum Awards Dinner Dance. of rhythmically organized modules and allow the word platinum, or an abbreviation,
“The consumer is the most important voice intervals. These modules vary not only to define an alloy of at least 500 parts per
in the jewellery industry,” MVI President in shape and style, but also in their thousand platinum alloyed with base metals,
Liz Chatelain said in a media release. interaction with the surrounding space in as long as it clearly discloses it contains
“Our JCOC panel will love to vote on their two-dimensional or three-dimensional other non-platinum group metals. The FTC
favourite jewellery designs, and we are looking aspects. Designs are not restricted by any asked for comments from the industry on
forward to honouring talented jewellery rules of repeating the identical modules. the proposed changes, and the Jewelers
designers on behalf of our panelists.” Contestants are encouraged to play with Vigilance Committee (JVC), Manufacturing
shapes of different epochs, scale, colour, plane Jewelers and Suppliers of America (MJSA),
and volume, as well as a wide variety of Jewelers of America (JA) and the American
Image and Form Competition structures, fabrics and materials. Winners are Gem Society (AGS) filed a response.
The Russian Jewellery Fund’s “Image and awarded with valuable prizes and gifts from The associations’ position maintains that
Form” is presenting a jewellery competition the organizers and media. the word “platinum” should be not be used
this October in Saint-Petersburg, Russia. to describe an alloy combining platinum with
With a theme called, “The Game of non-platinum group metals. In its response, the
Ornaments,” the participation costs 100 euro. Industry Objects to Broadening groups state that they welcome new products
Participation is broken down into two age Platinum Definition to the market that blend platinum with other
groups: 15-23 and 24-40. The jury includes A number of industry organizations have base metals, but propose that marketers use
famous art critics, professors and international filed a statement with the Federal Trade terms other than “platinum” to describe alloys
jewellery designers such as Giampaolo Babbeto Commission (FTC), objecting to the FTC’s containing platinum and base metals.
of Italy and Jan Walgrave, director of the proposal to broaden the definition of the
Antwerp Art Museum in Belgium. word “platinum.”
Competition grows fierce in the gold jewellery market.
Italian Jewellery Exports Looking Up

Exports of Italian gold jewellery are expected
to improve after an estimated 30% drop in
volume in the first half of the year to post a
full-year fall of about 10%, a senior industry
expert said on September 9, 2008.
Italy, the world’s biggest exporter and the
leader in design, has seen sales volumes fall
and market shares shrink thanks to competition
from India, China and Turkey, which have won
key export markets due to their industries’

improved quality and lower prices. “I expect
an improvement from the situation in the
first half of this year,” Stefano de Pascale,
director of Italian goldsmiths’ association
Federorafi, told Reuters. “In value, we can
expect [full year] results in line with 2007.
But if the value is translated into volume,
we will have a ‘minus’ sign of about 10%,”
de Pascale said. Exports of Italian jewellery –
about 75% of which is sold abroad –
dropped 30% in volume and 15% in value
in the first six months of this year, hit by high
gold prices and weak consumer demand.

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Hannoush Jewelers a Platinum The winning piece was a gold necklace called The companies, instead, may rely on the
Affiliate on GemFind.com Bella, which was created to resemble a holders of intellectual property to monitor
GemFind.com, an online jewellery jasmine flower. Saurabh Gadgil, Partner at the sites. In return the sites are required to
e-commerce portal, is proud to announce PNG, said: “This necklace is designed in such take down offending material when they’re
Hannoush Jewelers, a progressive, nationwide a way for multipurpose use for today’s notified about it.
jewellery chain with 25 Massachusetts-based woman – modern look with traditional New York-based Tiffany appealed to the
retail locations, has just signed exclusive qualities.” PNG said the design of the necklace U.S. Court of Appeals for the Second Circuit,
territory rights as a Platinum Affiliate on was also created to symbolize the confidence, and General Counsel Patrick Dorsey said the
GemFind.com. With online jewellery sales aspirations and personality of a modern and effect of the ruling, “is that eBay can continue
expected to exceed $5 billion in 2008, traditional woman. This year, the jeweller has to profit at the expense of consumers and
GemFind.com helps retailers and designers celebrated its 175th anniversary and trademark holders.”
to capitalize on the online sales marketplace, established itself in the city of Pune in 1958 “Tiffany’s decision to carry this litigation
brand their company and showcase their where it now has four showrooms. on after the District Court’s decision doesn’t
designs to millions of consumers. do anything to combat counterfeiting,” says
GemFind.com allows consumers to search eBay. “The best way to stop counterfeiting is
and purchase online, as well as having the ongoing collaboration between companies,
option to see the jewellery at their affiliates’ government agencies and law enforcement.”
retail location.
After opening its doors in 1980, Hannoush
Jewelers has built a network that includes ICA International Poster Competition
over 70 company-owned and franchise The International Colored Gemstone
locations throughout the United States. Association will conduct its fifth international
Although Hannoush Jewelers has a dedicated poster competition at its next congress from
website and retails online, they believe their May 5-10, 2009, in Panyu, Guangzhou
affiliation with GemFind.com will (China’s largest jewellery manufacturing area).
substantially increase their consumer Participation in these competitions, dedicated
awareness and sell-through. Ernst Benz’s LEVIEV bracelet to the promotion of coloured gemstones, has
grown to more than 150 posters from nearly
Ernst Benz New Limited 30 countries. Sponsors for the ICA Congress
Stuller Shatters Sales Record Edition Collection 2009 are the National Gemstone Testing Center
Stuller recently announced record-breaking Inspired by Mr. Benz’s original aircraft in Beijing, the China Council for the
combined sales results from its four booths at instrumentation, Ernst Benz’s new limited Promotion of International Trade Panyu
the JCK Show in Las Vegas.“At this year’s JCK edition collection of watches features Branch and Woldmart Jewelry & Gems
show, we experienced the largest sales volume dials available in matte ($5,100) or Emporium (HK) Ltd.
for any trade show in Stuller’s 37-year carbon fibre mesh ($5,600). They’re also The posters should be colourful, sized
history,” said Bob Cox, Executive Vice available in white for legibility or orange, 35-50cm (12-20 inch) and should carry the
President of sales. “While this year’s sales which in aviation stands for attention. ICA logo and official name, which can be
totals are still being processed, at the present The Company is also introducing download from the ICA website. A written
time, we’re up nine percent over our previous LEVIEV ’s art deco inspired bracelet, slogan can be added. All written
best in 2007.” which features 39 round-brilliant-cut information should be in English, however,
The Lafayette, LA-based manufacturer also diamonds weighing 10.61 carats and ICA strongly encourages designers to also
saw “substantial increases in the opening of 24 square-emerald-cut diamonds add the slogan in their national language
new accounts” at the show, according to totalling 2.15 carats. Accentuated by a and express the vast interest in coloured
Harold Dupuy, G.G., Executive Vice President collection of white pave diamonds, this gemstones worldwide. The deadline for
of merchandising and marketing. “These magnificent piece totals 25.87 carats, submitting posters is December 31, 2008.
results indicate that jewellers are responding and is handcrafted in platinum. ICA officials and members of the public
to our efforts to provide new solutions to aid will compose the judging committee.
them during difficult times,” Dupuy said.
“It also reinforces Stuller’s ‘Just In Time’
delivery system as an added value to retailers Tiffany Appeals Ruling in eBay’s Favour Timely Tradition for Designer
when cash flow is tighter.” Tiffany & Co. appealed a ruling by a federal A known trendsetter among watchmakers,
district court that online auction house, Switzerland-born John Isaac reinvents his
eBay Inc., does not have legal responsibility family tradition in perfecting watch dials for
PNG Wins Award to keep its users from selling counterfeit his very own collection of designer timepieces,
PNG has won the award for Best Gold items. Judge Richard Sullivan of Federal which arrived exclusively at Holt Renfrew
Jewellery of the Year 2008 at the recent District Court in Manhattan made the ruling this month. These personally designed
National Awards for Excellence in Jewellery in July in the case involving San Jose, automatic watches, assembled by an elite
held in Mumbai. This is the third year in a California-based eBay, reaffirming that team of craftsmen in Geneva, are best
row the jeweller has won the prize. Over Internet companies aren’t legally required identified by off-beat motifs of animal themes,
5,000 jewellers in India entered the many to actively police their sites for trademarked abstract symbols and floral hints engulfed
categories hosted by the awards. or copyrighted material. by alligator straps with stunning finishes.
PAGE 32
...................................

Out of just 999 watches created for this Additionally, Renato plans to focus its U.S. Gold in Demand for Asian Celebrations
collection worldwide, only 50 will be available expansion efforts on opening retail doors in Indians are buying large amounts of gold as
to the Canadian market. domestic, high-end stores such as Tourneau, the festive season is due to kick off in the
Isaac designs his ambiguous line with a Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. country, it has been reported.
touch of femininity, claiming that watch Hindu marriages are usually held between
trends are leaning toward a sleeker, daintier September and November, causing a surge in
silhouette. The young designer’s muse demand for gold jewellery. According to
embodies eccentric feminine elements, which Reuters India, gold is the most common gift
is why the collection draws the attention of for Indian religious festivities and it “forms
starlets like Gwyneth Paltrow and Natalie an essential part of the dowry basket.”
Portman, who both own Isaac’s timepieces. Managing Director of American Precious
Metals Advisors, Jeffrey Nichols, told Reuters
India that because of the advent of the
Rapaport Launches Chinese Network marriage season, “India should provide
The Rapaport Group’s RapNet Diamond strong support to the world market.”
Trading Network has launched RapNet In addition, demand for gold from
China, the first multilingual Chinese and Indonesia is expected to rise as the world’s
English diamond-trading network. RapNet largest Muslim nation gears up for the
China gives Chinese diamond buyers direct Ramadan fasting month, the news agency
access to global diamond markets and gives claimed. The Hindu Business Line also
foreign diamond suppliers direct access to recently reported that the main branch of
Chinese buyers, setting a new standard for Luxecor wedding bands the State Bank of India, located in
diamond traders in the Far East. These Coimbatore, is experiencing a shortage of
traders will now be able to deal directly with gold due to the festival period.
each other without any commission, Stuller Develops Wedding Band
advancing both the local Chinese market Stuller is launching a new wedding band
and the global marketplace. The RapNet designed to allow retailers to sell at
Long’s Jewelers Win Challenge
professional trading community has more accessible and profitable price points.
Platinum Guild International (PGI) and
than 3,800 members with daily diamond The Luxecor wedding bands are 25%
Martha Stewart Weddings are pleased to
listings of more than 425,000 diamonds lighter than regular wedding bands while
announce the winner of the 2008
valued at more than $3.2 billion. maintaining superior strength with a
“3-Platinum Bridal Ring Display Challenge,”
classic look. “Using patent-pending
a national platinum merchandise display
technology, we have found a way for
contest. The award was presented to Long’s
Renato Watches Inc. Announces 2009 retailers to overcome high metal market
Jewelers, Boston’s premiere retailer for high-end
Expansion Initiatives pricing,” says Matt Stuller, CEO and
designer jewellery, at the Summer 2008 JA Show
Renato Watches Inc. has announced its 2009 founder of Stuller. “Our goal was to
in New York City.
expansion initiatives, which include an develop a product that helps retailers sell
The contest challenged retailers to create
aggressive web, television and retail strategy, wedding bands for a profit during
an innovative display for merchandising the
driven by its ‘direct-to-customer’ business challenging times. Luxecor is a lighter
three-platinum bridal rings (engagement ring
model. Renato’s expansion plan for 2009 band with the same great look at the
and his and her wedding bands) as a set,
includes the continuation of sales on right price.”
while communicating platinum’s pure, rare
ShopNBC as its primary vehicle, supported Each Luxecor wedding band, which is
and eternal qualities. The contest was
by international expansion efforts through manufactured in Stuller’s facility located
designed to educate retailers about the
the Shopping Channel of Canada, QVC in Chattanooga, TN, comes with a
potential sales opportunity by merchandising
Germany and QVC UK. Additionally, the lifetime warranty. According to JP Walrond,
and displaying all three rings together.
Company will focus its efforts on the web Stuller’s Vice President of bridal jewellery,
Long’s Jewelers’ winning display featured
with distribution networks through this added element of security, along
platinum bridal ring sets by designers
PranaGioia.com (an e-boutique for luxury with accessible price points, has led to
Memoire, Ritani and Diana Classic. Additionally,
watches) and continuing with ShopNBC.com “brisk sales since its introduction at the
the display ambiance was enhanced by a
(ShopNBC’s web component). JCK Las Vegas show in June.”
tableware set by Platinum on Porcelain by
Plans to expand its retail presence “We wanted to provide an accessibly-
Michael Wainwright and a platinum
through international distributors and sales priced band without sacrificing quality,”
picture frame. As the grand prize winner,
agents are currently in progress, with a Walrond says. “And our technology has
Long’s Jewelers’ display will be showcased
strong focus on Gulf locations such as allowed us to do so within our just-in-time
on the promotional pages of the
Dubai, Greece, Turkey and Cypress. overnight delivery system. The warranty
Martha Stewart Weddings Fall 2008 issue.
The expansion plan also calls for the has also been an appreciated ‘value
They will also receive a custom trophy
establishment of licensed Renato boutiques added’ feature of the line.”
and a lunch for their staff, catered by
in a variety of international markets. Martha Stewart Weddings.

026-033.CJ_FTR.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 3:59 PM Page 33
fortherecord
PranaGioia Relaunches Web Boutique

E-commerce wholesaler for jewellery and
CGTA Award Winners watches, Prana Gioia Ltd., has relaunched
The Canadian Gift and Tableware its website to increase its online presence.
Association (CGTA) poured through The new site offers a unique E-commerce
hundreds of submissions to the 2008 experience based on Prana Gioia’s core
GTA Top 10 Product Award Competition mission: to sell premium products while
to find the most innovative giftware allowing brands to maintain their individual
products of the year. Winners, which identities. The Company will launch four
included Giftcraft Ltd.’s “City Gypsies exclusive watch brands, including VaBene,
City Gypsies Snake Necklace
Snake Necklace,” were honoured at Ritmo Mundo, Quadtec and Renato, with
the awards gala dinner on August 10, plans to expand in the near future.
attended by more than 600 giftware “Our customer service component is a
suppliers and retailers. Available in distinct benefit to our e-commerce business,”
bronze, gold and silver, the steel City deems Ana Martins, spokesperson for the
Gypsies Snake Necklace bends into Company. “Individually, many brands do not
any shape for endless possibilities to have the proper infrastructure to accommodate
complement any look. It is also high-volume online sales. Our holistic,
available in ring and bracelet styles. brand-centric approach allows us to prioritize
customer interaction and build ongoing
City Gypsies Snake Bracelet
relationships with them.” [CJ]
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stockindex
Last Quarter Market

Company Name Stock Exchange Price Price % 52-Week 52-Week Revenue P/E Cap
Symbol 07/18/08 08/29/08 Change High Low ($Millions) Ratio ($Millions)
PRECIOUS METALS
Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $70.320 $60.950 -13.32% $82.800 $44.510 $88.9 74.33 $8,765.28
Alamos Gold AGI TSX $6.720 $6.150 -8.48% $8.400 $4.820 $32.4 47.31 $586.92
Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $35.670 $26.920 -24.53% $51.350 $25.350 $968.0 33.23 $7,480.93
Anvil Mining Limited AVM TSX $10.480 $7.250 -30.82% $20.140 $6.660 $63.5 5.53 $516.53
Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $28.020 $36.950 31.87% $54.110 $33.030 $1,989.0 16.72 $32,214.45
Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $32.915 $23.200 -29.52% $42.890 $18.755 $204.3 33.62 $5,887.23
Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $2.070 $1.640 -20.77% $4.180 $1.250 $52.6 52.33 $1,067.99
Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $7.880 $8.440 7.11% $9.010 $5.130 $83.5 70.33 $2,917.32
Equinox Minerals Limited EQN TSX $3.680 $4.000 8.70% $6.200 $2.980 $7.3 N/A $2,371.84
First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $66.550 $68.500 2.93% $103.930 $53.160 $651.7 6.41 $4,707.66
FNX Mining Company FNX TSX $18.560 $15.500 -16.49% $39.770 $13.600 $112.2 16.49 $1,313.0
Gammon Gold GAM TSX $9.500 $9.880 4.00% $12.020 $5.800 $65.3 N/A $1,182.59
Gold Eagle Mines GEA TSX $10.120 $12.050 19.07% $12.600 $5.480 $0.7 301.25 $1,284.91
Gold Fields GFI NYSE $12.900 $9.100 -29.46% $19.915 $8.540 $836.3 N/A $5,942.51
Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $45.990 $36.120 -21.46% $52.480 $24.300 $639.5 45.15 $25,745.14
Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $6.010 $7.000 16.47% $10.250 $5.100 $242.2 20.59 $2,069.45
International Royalty IRC TSX $4.640 $3.350 -27.80% $7.110 $3.270 $11.5 20.94 $262.90
Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $11.830 $11.950 1.01% $15.500 $7.800 $203.4 N/A $4,487.41
Kinross Gold K TSX $22.830 $17.500 -23.35% $27.160 $12.150 $307.6 33.02 $10,765.19
Lundin Mining LUN TSX $5.090 $5.080 -0.20% $13.970 $4.530 $297.2 N/A $1,983.29
Newmont Mining NMC TSX $48.400 $47.680 -1.49% $58.440 $43.010 $1,522.0 N/A $2,664.07
NovaGold Resources NG TSX $9.720 $6.880 -29.22% $19.990 $5.900 $0.3 N/A $723.67
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $33.320 $28.500 -14.47% $43.660 $25.220 $105.3 21.59 $2,302.40
Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $8.850 $6.850 -22.60% $9.250 $5.330 $67.0 N/A $1,292.49
Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $29.260 $26.970 -7.83% $44.070 $24.770 $1.9 N/A $1,690.96
Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $14.900 $12.300 -17.45% $19.300 $10.170 $50.1 27.95 $2,753.45
Teck Cominco Ltd. TCK.B TSX $40.020 $44.360 10.84% $52.900 $28.000 $1,907.0 12.02 $19,550.78
Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $14.020 $11.530 -17.76% $19.790 $9.890 $340.7 37.19 $8,065.48
GEMSTONES
Anglo American PLC AAUK Nasdaq $27.870 $26.600 -4.56% $38.750 $22.730 N/A N/A $70,337.31
BHP Billiton Limited BHP NYSE $71.860 $70.510 -1.88% $95.610 $53.720 $59,473.0 15.2 $118,398.98
Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.435 $0.425 -2.30% $1.170 $0.285 N/A N/A $3.80
Diamond Fields International DFI TSX $0.065 $0.055 -15.38% $0.215 $0.035 $1.4 N/A $12.89
Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.320 $0.275 -14.06% $0.560 $0.240 N/A N/A $9.44
Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $19.830 $20.800 4.89% $43.850 $18.590 $157.4 9.77 $1,276.53
Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $4.270 $4.290 0.47% $5.170 $4.000 $0.0 N/A $257.10
Moydow Mines Intl Inc. MOY TSX $0.210 $0.195 -7.14% $0.310 $0.135 $0.0 N/A $11.81
New Nadina Expls Ltd. NNA TSX-V $0.180 $0.260 44.44% $0.485 $0.110 N/A N/A $7.66
Nordic Diamonds Ltd. NDL TSX-V $0.055 $0.050 -9.09% $0.250 $0.045 N/A N/A $2.58
Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $401.500 $379.720 -5.42% $558.650 $273.870 N/A N/A $101,425.49
Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.310 $0.295 -4.84% $0.950 $0.250 $0.2 N/A $67.03
Tahera Diamond TAH TSX $0.030 $0.035 16.67% $0.440 $0.025 $5.1 N/A $7.35
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.310 $0.280 -9.68% $0.710 $0.250 $13.0 N/A $19.54
JEWELLERS & RETAILERS

Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $2.600 $2.350 -9.62% $6.900 $2.180 N/A 2.01 $8.37
Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $27.790 $29.920 7.66% $46.250 $22.260 $353.2 14.96 $2,024.59
Sears Canada SCC TSX $23.000 $21.990 -4.39% $33.000 $17.510 $1,420.3 7.35 $2,366.58
Signet Group SIG NYSE $10.350 $11.520 11.30% $19.660 $8.600 $822.5 N/A $1,964.78
Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $39.640 $44.170 11.43% $57.340 $32.840 $668.2 16.61 $5,564.27
Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $57.920 $59.070 1.99% $61.000 $42.090 $102,667.0 17.69 $232,955.65
Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $19.600 $27.310 39.34% $28.300 $12.480 $476.7 143.74 $965.02
COMMODITIES
Gold COMX $818.500

Silver COMX $13.355
Platinum NYME $1,446.500
Palladium NYME $303.800
*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

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The latest news

on international mines.
Higher Cash Costs Weaken Upside bond, which it expects to receive by the end
Barrick Gold Corp.’s higher cash cost of this month. This permit is the final step of
guidance will likely dampen upside in the a permitting process that has taken nearly
stock, says RBC Capital analyst, Stephen D. three years to complete; this also allows the
Walker. Mr. Walker decreased his price target Company to begin construction of the new
on Barrick shares from C$48 to C$45 and heap leach pad and completes the permitting
maintained his “sector perform” rating after for processing of ore at the Relief Canyon
increasing his 2008 average total cash cost Mine. Firstgold plans to produce its first gold
forecast by C$30. The analyst’s new price Gem Ban Could product between November 1 and November
target represents a roughly 12% premium on Hurt Burmese Miners 15. The Company is optimistic that there will
the stock. Mr. Walker left his 2008 gold The International Colored Gemstone be no delays due to the adjudication of
production forecast for Barrick unchanged at Association (ICA) is expressing concern Firstgold’s bond or weather related delays,
7.5 million ounces, to reflect management’s that the recently approved U.S. import although either could cause an adjustment to
view that production will trend towards the ban on gemstones from Myanmar may this schedule.
lower end of the Company’s guidance of "cause collateral damage," that will
between 7.6 million and 8.1 million ounces. ultimately hurt the country's already poor Historic Mines May Reopen
independent miners and traders. The act A gold mining company has been testing
Committee Plans Workshop is designed to diminish a funding source historical mines near Silverton, Colorado,
The energy committee of the Ontario Mining for Myanmar's ruling military junta, which with a mind to reopen them. The Durango
Association (OMA) is planning to hold a profits from state-run gemstone auctions Herald said if the Gold King and Mogul
workshop on conservation and fuel for the but has a long history of human rights mines were reopened by Colorado Goldfields,
gold mining sector and related industries. On violations against citizen dissenters, it could deliver a significant economic boost
its website, the OMA reveals that September including a violent crackdown against to the small town of 531 people. Exploratory
23 and 24 will see Thunder Bay host a protesting Buddhist monks last year. mining started at the Mogul mine and
conference intended to target people such as The act bars gemstones mined in drilling started at the Gold King site in July.
electrical supervisors, energy co-ordinators Myanmar, specifically rubies and jadeite, Between 1895 and 1920, the Gold King
and other mining staff with an interest in from entering the United States, even mine produced 345,000 ounces of gold,
energy management. A tour of North if those stones were processed in according to Stephen Guyer, Chief Financial
American Palladium’s Lac des Iles mine will third-party countries such as Thailand. Officer of the Company. In discussing the
be incorporated into the event, which also "Those who will suffer are the very possibility of reopening the mines instead of
incorporates a golf event and a dinner. people that the legislation intended to starting new ones in the area, Guyer said, “it’s
The OMA notes that the event follows last protect," ICA President, Andrew Cody, economically feasible and we anticipate that
year’s energy management workshop in said in a statement. "It is a pity that the it’s going to get nothing but more
Timmins, adding that the Ontario mining leadership in national, international and economically attractive over the next six
industry spends an annual total of some governmental agencies, people that are months.” Other mines in the Colorado area
$500 million on energy. “Conserving and not really in-the-know as to what takes that the exploration Company are
effectively managing this major input cost is place on the ground, failed to consult our investigating include the Mayflower mine
a major challenge for all mineral producers association on this issue, and to our and the Pride of the West mine.
in Ontario,” states the body. OMA member knowledge, no collateral damage study
companies include Kinross Gold Corporation was undertaken." Freeport-McMoRan
and Kirkland Lake Gold. Copper & Gold Share Rally
Shares of Freeport-McMoRan Copper & Gold
Pebble Creek Mining Firstgold Corp. Inc. rallied after copper prices rose earlier in
Announces Stock Options Announces Production August. The Phoenix-based Company’s stock
Pebble Creek Mining Ltd. announced that it Firstgold Corp. announced that it has received gained $6.39, or 7.5%, to $91.09. Copper for
has granted stock options to directors, officers, its Reclamation Permit from the Nevada December delivery was up as much as 6.8
employees and consultants for the purchase Department of Environmental Protection, cents to $3.483 a pound on the New York
of up to a total of 1,890,000 common shares which completes its permitting process to Mercantile Exchange, before sliding down
of the Company (known as the “Options”) at fully revise the plan of operations and begin 1.2 cents to $3.407. “These commodities
an exercise price of $0.24 per share. The production at the Relief Canyon Mine. The are very much currency plays at the
Options have a term of five years and are permit is contingent on the Company moment,” Charles Bradford, an analyst at
governed by the Company’s stock option increasing its reclamation bond to $2.8 Soleil-Bradford Research, said in an interview.
plan, whereby options to purchase common million bond with the Bureau of Land Bradford rates the stock “Buy,” noting its
shares may be granted up to a maximum Management (BLM). The Company has aggressive program to expand reserve and
10% of the issued and outstanding common deposited the required amount and is mining capacity. The stock is down 17
shares of the Company from time to time. awaiting the BLM’s adjudication of the percent in 2008.

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miningnews
Peregrine Finds JNR Provides Update New Mining Truck

Diamonds at Nunavut Site JNR Resources Inc. has recently provided an Reduces Engine Emissions
Peregrine Diamonds has found diamonds update on the 2008 summer drilling programs Caterpillar has launched a new mining truck
at its six-hectare Chidliak exploration that have been completed or are still underway that is said to boost performance and
property in Nunavut. The Company, which in the Athabasca Basin. Two drills are currently reliability, reduce engine emissions and
also has properties in Canada’s Northwest operating on the Company’s 100% owned Way enhance safety. The 785D target payload
Territories and Manitoba, discovered the Lake uranium project, located 55 kilometres ranges from 142 to 155 tons depending on
presence of possibly diamond-bearing east of the Key Lake uranium mine in the the specific configuration. According to the
kimberlite at Chidliak in July. Peregrine said Athabasca Basin of northern Saskatchewan. Company, the truck’s engine maintains fuel
the discovery is 700 kilometres from the The Way Lake project comprises 17 efficiency, delivers 1,348 net horsepower (1,005
nearest known deposit of kimberlite. The contiguous claims, totalling 71,795 hectares. kW) and is compliant with US EPA Tier II
property is located about 150 km northeast The program is budgeted at $2.5 million and emissions standards. The engine is capable at
of Iqaluit on Baffin Island, and has direct will consist of a planned 10,000 metres of altitudes up to 14,000 feet (4,267 metres), with
access to tidewater that connects to the diamond drilling, as well as additional no derate. With the change to a high
Atlantic Ocean. geological mapping and prospecting. displacement engine, engine life is extended.
Harmony Gold Cutting Costs Gold Production Starts on Sewa River British Mining Company
Harmony Gold Mining Co. Ltd. is benefiting Sierra Gold has started gold production at its Under Pressure
from higher gold prices. Going forward, project on the Sewa River in Sierra Leone. The British mining company, Vedanta, is under
Harmony is focused on reducing its overall Company will use an eight-inch dredge, which intense pressure over its plans to mine the
operating costs through its continuous has the ability to process 50 tonnes per hour Dongria Kondh tribe’s land in India, as a
operations agreement or CONOPS and the in its operations. Preliminary testing at the Scottish investment group sells its shares and
shutdown of loss-making shafts. The site has already confirmed the presence of gold. Amnesty International joins the campaign in
Company is also reducing its headcount to Doug Evans, Chief Executive Officer of Sierra support of the tribe.
control costs and has a diverse portfolio of Gold, said “This equipment will allow the Martin Currie, an Edinburgh-based
gold development projects spread across Company to move to another level of gold investment management company, has sold
South Africa and Papua New Guinea production.” He added that Sierra Gold was its £2.3million stake in Vedanta following
(PNG). Projects include Elandsrand, “excited” about taking the next step at the pressure from Survival International. Last
Doornkop, Tshepong and Phakisa in South Sewa River and the fact that the equipment year, the Norwegian government’s Council of
Africa and Hidden Valley in PNG, which will give the Company the opportunity “to Ethics claimed that Norway sold its shares in
would deliver up to 1.4 million ounces of be able to mine throughout the year.” In June Vedanta due to an “unacceptable risk of
additional production by 2011. In addition, this year, Sierra Gold announced that the complicity in current and future severe
it has a number of development prospects river dredging equipment would be able to environmental damage and systematic
that are being progressed. These include increase gold production by up to 500%. human rights violations.”
surface sand dumps, rock dumps and tailing
dams, reviewing the potential of uranium
deposits in South Africa and developing the
Wafi Golpu gold and copper-gold deposits
in PNG.
Drill Results from Kalimantan

Kalimantan Gold has announced new results
from its drilling at the Jelai gold project in
Indonesia. The site in East Kalimantan now
has 56 holes drilled for a total of 4,468
metres over the past 12 months. Looking at
the future of the Jelai gold project, President Ontario Gold Miners Safe
and Chief Executive Officer of the Company, Mining for gold and other natural resources in Ontario is a safe and productive career,
Rahman Connelly, said, “our two scout drill the Ontario Mining Association (OMA) has recently verified. The OMA made the
rigs will continue to define the near-surface comments as it reported a steady safety performance for the industry in the Canadian
expressions of the structures, whilst the two province during the first half of 2008, with the period seeing a lost time injury rate of 0.6
larger capacity drill rigs ... will focus on per 200,000 hours worked — matching the first six months of 2007. Noting that the rate
intersecting the gold bearing veins at depth.” stood at 4.7 in 1985, the association gives credit for the improvement in performance
Kalimantan Gold said it hopes to have an over the past 23 years to each individual working in the mining sector and their personal
initial inferred resource for the site by the diligence. Credit was also given to a number of initiatives bolstering these individual
end of this year. efforts, such as the OMA's Internal Responsible System audits, which began in 2000. [CJ]

038-040.CJ_Mining02.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 9:57 AM Page 38
Completely Certifiable
What makes a diamond truly Canadian?

The question has generated quite a bit of controversy
and confusion amongst retailers and consumers alike.
Fortunately, there is a clear “cut” answer.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
or many Canadian consumers, the desire to purchase goods that
F originate from their homeland is a strong one. This holds true for
those wishing to purchase a diamond, which explains why
Canadian diamonds have become a hot commodity over the past few
years. With this increasing demand comes its share of controversy. In this
case, the uncertainty stems from the final word on what actually makes a
Canadian diamond Canadian.
For the most part, the misunderstanding has come from the Government
Certified Canadian Diamond™ certification. Phyllis Richard, Chair for
the Canadian Diamond Code Committee points out, “This is the
Northwest Territories certification. Not Canada’s. It should not infer
that it’s the federal Canadian government.” Furthering the uncertainty are
some of the claims made by the Northwest Territories body, which state
that a true Canadian diamond is mined, cut and polished here in our
home and Native land. Ms. Richard says that, as decried by the
Canadian federal government, a Canadian diamond is defined as one
mined in Canada, and cut and polished either here or abroad.
Digging for the Truth

According to Mel Moss, President of Regal Imports Ltd., the Northwest
Territory government has taken out a trademark on the term “Canadian
Government Certified Diamonds,” so that others are barred from using it.

miningfeature
“ The Code authenticates Canadian diamond claims ...

by tracking diamonds from the retailer all the way
back to the mine.
”
However, what really made the industry “go nuts,” he states, is (also known as "the Code") was born. “The Code authenticates
when the “NWT government didn’t like the definition that the Canadian diamond claims,” Ms. Richard explains, “by tracking
Competition Bureau came up with. And to override it, they diamonds from the retailer all the way back to the mine.”
took out the trademark on the term ‘Canadian Diamond’ so
nobody could use it without their permission.” The Code originated from the Competition Bureau's
Enforcement Policy on the Marketing of Canadian Diamonds.
Mr. Moss is not shy in pointing out that these two trademarks This policy detailed when diamonds can be represented as
are the primary culprits for all the unrest, as is the idea of "Canadian" without violating the false or misleading claims
tacking on the ‘cut and polished’ message to the definition. provisions of the Competition Act (a provision for the general
“In trade and consumer, it can be misunderstood,” he states. regulation of trade and commerce in respect of conspiracies,
“The NWT government was fighting for a Canadian diamond trade practices and mergers affecting competition).
to be mined, cut and polished in Canada to be considered
Canadian.” Another fact Mr. Moss touches upon is what these Evolving from the efforts of industry groups, including the
guarantees actually mean. “Certificates usually guarantee cut diamond mining sector, cutters and polishers, retailers, the
and clarity,” he explains, “so it can be misunderstood that this Canadian Jewellers Association and Jewellers Vigilance Canada,
certificate guarantees this as well as the diamond’s origin.” along with several government stakeholders, The Code
establishes a minimum standard required to validate a
Mr. Moss is an industry stakeholder who firmly agrees with the Canadian diamond claim based on a paper trail and a chain of
assessment of the Competition Bureau (an independent warranties. After a considerable amount of research and
Canadian agency that protects and promotes competitive mar- study, this was deemed to be the most suitable system to
kets and enables informed consumer choice). Another key substantiate claims on the origin of Canadian diamonds.
industry member, George Mimar, Co-Owner of MDL Diamonds,
is another. “When the [NWT government] say ‘government Grade “Eh” Marketing
certified’, jewellers automatically think it’s the Canadian So, another question is raised regarding the marketing and
government when it may be the Northwest Territories,” he states. claims that can be made. In 2000, the Canadian Competition
Bureau stepped in to cement the rules for the marketing
The Code of Canadian diamonds. The goal was to establish when
In order to give retailers and consumers a clear understanding claims regarding the origin of diamonds raised issues under the
of what makes a diamond Canadian, The Voluntary Code of false or misleading representations and deceptive marketing
Conduct for Authenticating Canadian Diamond Claims practices provisions of the Act.
PAGE 40
...................................

miningfeature
The Whole Truth The Competition Bureau’s Rules for the Marketing
While the Canadian diamond industry has been forced to of Canadian Diamonds
endure this situation, it is improving as both retailers and
consumers are beginning to understand the difference This interpretation of the Competition Act outlines the
between the (NWT) Government Certified Canadian approach that the Commissioner of Competition takes in
Diamond™ program and the actual criteria for defining determining when claims relating to the origin of diamonds
what makes a diamond Canadian. It really is as simple as would raise issues under the false/misleading representations
knowing that a Canadian diamond is mined right here. and deceptive marketing practices provisions of the Act.
Whether or not it is also cut and polished in Canada However, these guidelines are not law — they reflect the
does not alter the definition. “Australian opals have Commissioner's interpretation of the law and how the Act
been coming out of Australia for years but cut in will be applied on a consistent basis by Competition Bureau
Vancouver,” Mr. Moss says. “Does that mean those opals staff. The general principles of the Act are as follows:
aren’t [officially] Australian?”
N The false or misleading representations and deceptive
Further elaborating on the cut and polish issue, Mr. Mimar marketing practices provisions of the Act prohibit the
says that many people are under the impression that mine making of a materially false or misleading representation
owners and producers pull diamonds from out of the to the public for the purpose of promoting a product or
ground, run it to the cutting facility in Yellowknife and cut it business interest. These provisions apply to the
right there. “It’s a lot more complicated than that,” he adds. promotion of diamonds.
“And it’s our job to educate our clients on this and all the
other issues by saying, ‘if this is what you’ve heard, here’s N In determining whether a representation is false or
what the truth is.’” misleading, the courts will consider the general
impression being conveyed to ordinary members of the
Looking past the confusion regarding certification issues, it target audience by the representation in question, as
is important for jewellers and manufacturers to understand well as its literal meaning.
that for many consumers, Canadian diamonds represent an
ethical and patriotic purchase decision. This is in line with N A representation in one medium (e.g. newspaper
our country’s and the media’s growing interest and coverage advertisement) must be accurate and not misleading
in moral codes and fair practice. In turn, providing on its face. The representation should not rely upon
consumers with the opportunity to buy conflict-free, additional information located in another medium to
Canadian produced diamonds is a surefire means in which clarify its meaning.
to pay homage to these sensibilities, all the while supplying
them with some of the highest quality diamonds found N Use clear and precise language to reduce the risk of
anywhere in the world. misleading a potential purchaser. [CJ]

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042-043.CJ_TechNews.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:11 AM Page 42
New technology in the jewellery industry.
eDiamondselect touch-screen terminal
Alliance Links Huge Diamond Originally introduced in 2005 as an in-store kiosk solution
Database to Web Building Programs to the diamond industry, eDiamondselect and its team have
Leading diamond software solutions provider, spent years developing this retail solutions software, which
eDiamondselect, has taken its reputation to the next level has 132 patent pending claims. As a result, customers are no
through its new partnership with Avalon Solution. longer forced to travel from retailer to retailer to find the
Avalon Solution is a comprehensive B2C web service that stone they’re looking for, or resort to the risky task of buying
helps retail jewellers establish custom branded websites. As a a diamond sight-unseen on the web.
result of the partnership, all of eDiamondselect’s current and
future customers will have special access to Avalon Solution’s Scale Developed to Weigh Gold Atoms
web building program. Meanwhile, Avalon Solution will Scientists in the U.S. have claimed to have developed a
promote eDiamondselect’s unique program and extensive nanoelectromechanical scale system, which is so sensitive it
loose diamond inventory to its own retail customers. can measure – at room temperature – the mass of a single
atom of gold.
The innovative, easy-to-use system by eDiamondselect is ideal
for those who want to cut administrative costs and accurately Physicist Alex Zettl holds a joint appointment at the
track sales, as its WebEmbed feature can be integrated into a Energy Department’s Berkeley Lab and the University of
store’s website, allowing customers to remotely search the California-Berkeley and led the research with researchers
store’s and suppliers’ inventories. Also, its software application Kenneth Jensen and Kwanpyo Kim. The carbon nanotube
can be installed on a touch-screen terminal, kiosk or a mass sensor was able to weigh separate gold atoms and also
jeweller’s own PC located at the front of the store, which gives measure objects which were two-fifths the size of a gold
retail customers immediate visual access to a real-time atom in just over one second. He said this has previously
selection of the store’s available loose diamond inventory. been difficult to achieve even at cryogenic temperatures.

042-043.CJ_TechNews.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:11 AM Page 43
technews
Ultra Tester from Sy Kessler

The North American headquarters for Renata Batteries of Itingen
Switzerland, Sy Kessler Sales Inc. is currently featuring the
GemOro UltraTester, a simultaneous diamond and moissanite tester
that identifies, detects and separates diamonds from CZ and moissanite.
The tester comes with many features, including an unprecedented
lifetime limited warranty, bright white LED illuminator light, fast
warm-up time, durable ULTRA probe tip, as well as an ULTRAgrip and
rubberized paint finish. This made-in-the-USA UltraTester is
ergonomically designed, helps users save energy with a battery-saving
auto sleep mode function and a LED bar graph/beep tone that provides
audible and visual diamond, moissanite and white sapphire indication.
The UltraTester comes in an embossed black leatherette storage case,
with an outer box cover and a leatherette pouch for storage.
Developed by engineers at GemOro Superior Instruments, the tester’s

state-of-the-art digital electronics and proprietary Probe Tip Sensitivity
Sheath (PTSES) makes this tester incredibly accurate and reliable,
providing you with serious protection against fraud. [CJ]
MCD Pearl Imports

A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls
and pearl jewellery.
catalogue available upon request
27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426
Email info@mcdpearls.com
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056-058.CJ_TECH_feature02.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 2:58 PM Page 44
Building
Confidence 1
The latest tech allows retailers to intertwine

advanced technology with customer service.
B Y N IKKI Y EH
ccording to Shele Letwin, sales rep trainer and designer for The “Matrix”
GV Design Canada, there are three steps to selling The latest Matrix software allows you to create virtual jewellery
customized jewellery: a) making up a pencil sketch; b) designs, all the while generating a rendered preview image; then it
constructing a wax model; and c) presenting the actual model to the outputs your design to any CAM device, which creates wax models
customer. Though when the last step approaches, there’s no sigh of ready for casting. “It’s a good all-purpose tool for whatever design
relief just yet; you still haven’t made a solid sale since this is the very the CAD operator wants to create,” comments Letwin, adding that
first time the customer will view his or her creation in full form. this new technology was recently rated the most used amongst CAD
Nevertheless, GV Design Canada, the authorized dealer for and CAM operators, which was verified by the MJSA Technology
Gemvision Corporation, wants to help retailers bring excitement to Survey. Jeff High, president and founder of Gemvision, also states,
customized pieces sooner than later with the Matrix Version 6, the “designing a piece of jewellery takes you down many design paths.
latest version of Gemvision’s innovative jewellery CAD (Computer Ideally, you want to be able to explore all of those ideas and see your
Aided Design) software. options in real time as you design while getting all the subtle details
just right. Matrix 6 makes that a reality and becomes an interactive
part of your creative thought as a designer.” Not to mention, the
Matrix is user-friendly for jewellery retailers, with Letwin noting
that, “70% of our customers are retailers that want to produce the
wax themselves. The program is easy enough so that anyone
without jewellery experience can make [jewellery].”
1. Wax models
2. Ring models

056-058.CJ_TECH_feature02.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:16 AM Page 45
techfeature
3 4
3-4. envision models

5. envision in action
So, what makes the Matrix 6 so “easy” for retailers? Well, you be
the judge: it features history-enabled parts and styles, a
streamlined interface and a host of new tools that follow the latest
design trends. On top of those features, it includes an exclusive
version of a V-Ray rendering engine into the software, resulting 5
in photo-realistic renders. In fact, according to Letwin, the Matrix
6 has been in demand by independent jewellery retailers to
accommodate fast-paced decision-making. “When you put CAD Obviously, fixtures are key to milling good quality models,
into your company, it changes everything,” says Letwin. “You hate especially when it comes with the least amount of set-up time.
to have a customer come in and say ‘I like this design’ and then As a result, the Revo540C takes this concept to a whole new level;
have the store experience communication problems.” In other in fact, nearly every set-up process is designed to be performed
words, not only does the Matrix 6 give you more chances of without tools, including five hand-tightened fixtures mounted to
nailing your custom jewellery sales, it also decreases the A axis.
apprehension, allowing your customers to see their prized pieces
before they even exist. “The customer has the confidence, which For Your Consideration…
is not comparable to pencil sketches. Now the joy is in the In the jewellery industry, there’s no doubt that “custom design is
beginning. It’s a different type of selling and eliminates really important,” claims Letwin. “Trends are pushing jewellers
miscommunication,” Letwin points out. and retailers want to stay ahead of the competition.” As such,
consider the latest technology for your store, which, in the end,
The Next Step could affect your staff, operations and, best of all, your
To bring jewellery retailers to another sales level, GV Design consumers’ shopping habits. [CJ]
Canada is also featuring Gemvision’s latest milling machine, the
Revo540C Dual Spindle Mill, which Letwin describes as being,
“pretty much hit-and-go and having the machine carve Tech FYI
[jewellery] out.” This next-generation mill integrates software On a side note, GV Design Canada is the authorized
solutions with hardware updates, and with dual-spindle dealer of envisionTEC’s Perfactory Desktop System, which
technology, the Revo540C brings quite a presence into any store. supports rapid prototyping and manufacturing. Letwin
“Having a machine on the sales floor behind glass is a traffic verifies that the system “produces wax out of resin,”
stopper, creating a lot of interest in custom work,” says Letwin. creating three-dimensional resin models through a digital
So, here’s how the newest “C” mill model works: two high-speed light processing system. Quite simply, “whatever you see,
spindles approach the model from two directions. you can print it,” claims Letwin. Utilizing a built-in ethernet
The configuration then allows almost any model to be machined interface, the Perfactory Desktop System can connect
without changing any fixtures. In other words, this dual-spindle directly to a PC workstation or be integrated into a network
technology produces quality models in one single operation, with an embedded PC.
which eliminates changing any fixtures.

046-047.CJ_Bench.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:18 AM Page 46
Handle Care with

Why it’s so important to understand the do’s and don’ts
of handling specialty gemstones.
B Y N IKKI Y EH
iamonds may be a “girl’s best friend,” though bench jewellers
D frequently find themselves handling other coloured stones

such as rubies and sapphires. When working with these
precious gems, it is imperative to keep in mind that they are
typically softer and less durable than diamonds. This can have a
tremendous impact on a bench jeweller’s work, especially when
working on a setting specifically designed for a diamond. “A knowledgeable bench jeweller and
salesperson should be able to lean
With all this to consider, what should you keep in mind when customers towards designs and stones
working with coloured gemstones? First, think about the
that will last for a long time, yet can be
customer. Be honest with him or her when discussing the creation
of a customized piece, as he or she may not understand why some
stones are more fragile than others. A knowledgeable bench
”
easily repaired if required.
jeweller and salesperson should be able to lean customers towards

designs and stones that will last for a long time, yet can be easily
repaired if required.
However, if your customer is adamant about a “fragile” design,

consider working with him or her one-on-one on designing a piece
that will, in the end, protect the stone. (Don’t forget to discuss why
the piece needs to be reworked for the protection of the stone.)

046-047.CJ_Bench.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:18 AM Page 47
benchfeature
Of course, there are those customers who insist on a customized

design, such as a channel-set emerald ring. In this case, you
can sell this creation to your customer, as long as you provide
them with a clear and honest warning.
So, for example, if the customer is
purchasing a tanzanite, make sure to
point out that this stone can develop
cleavages from the simplest shocks.
For Your Consideration

There are many actions for you to consider
when working with coloured gemstones,
which includes:
N Test pumice wheels on a piece of glass

before using any coloured gemstones
on them. If you find the wheels are
not scraping off glass, they should not
scratch the majority of faceted stones.
N Pickle, an acid bath used to clean

pieces after soldering, can destroy
many coloured stones, including
turquoise and pearls. If you are Working with coloured stones requires a gentle “touch.”
unsure whether or not a stone is
strong enough for acids, do not insert
it in the pickle. The same goes for any
steam cleaners.
Bench Seminars by Platinum Guild International
N When setting soft, coloured stones (such as tanzanite), coat and Bench Media
them with nail polish. This will protect against abrasive
actions. After the setting is complete, immerse the stone in N Portland, OR
acetone to remove the polish. However, do your research first September 25, 2008
to find out which stones are compatible with acetone. N Indianapolis, IN
October 2, 2008
Overall, keep in mind that gemstones should be treated
differently. For example, hematite is resident to sudden Whether you are developing your craft or you are a seasoned
temperature changes, though a steamer should be avoided. bench veteran who wants to refresh your skills, bench
And while idocrase is tough, it is known to be susceptible to seminars can help jump-start your creativity and help motivate
scratches with steel-stone setting tools. Knowing how to handle you to accomplish your goals. These seminars are designed
specific gemstones not only increases your knowledge on the to inform, instruct and inspire bench jewellers to achieve
bench, but also enhances customer service. [CJ] their goals by illustrating and teaching a myriad of advanced
bench techniques. Rather than simply learning from one
speaker, you will experience one of the first dual instructed
seminars in the industry.

048-050.CJ_DesignFeature.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:46 AM Page 48
Original G.
When it comes to designs
that are every bit as fashionable
as they are unique and
pragmatic, few can compare
to Simon G. Jewelry.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
imon Ghanimian, who is better known
S as Simon G., did not wake up one

morning and say to himself,‘I want to be
a jewellery designer.’ Rather, after leaving his
homeland of Beirut in 1976 for New York
City at the ripe age of 19, he had aspirations
of becoming a civil engineer. Unfortunately,
the tuition proved too costly and upon the
suggestions of some relatives, he began to
investigate the possibility of earning his
living in the jewellery business.
Four years later, the aspiring designer met his

wife Silvia and the following year opened the
doors of Simon G. Jewelry. Today, Simon G. is
60 members strong, and the Glendale,
California business boasts designers from
Japan, Lebanon and Italy. While much has
changed since those earlier days, the one
constant has been a commitment to unique
and functional jewellery. “It’s simplicity of
design and it’s identity,” Simon explains,
“that is unique and wearable everyday.”
Which explains why Simon G. customers fall
in love with their pieces over and over again.

designerprofile
Pendant in rose, white and

yellow gold, with vivid pear-shaped
canary yellow diamonds and bright
white diamonds.
“... it is Simon G.’s customers — both

retailers and consumers — that drive the
direction of his designs.
”
An Inspiring Process
When asked where he gets his inspiration for his one-of-a-kind Simon may be an admirer of these European-inspired
designs, Simon is quick to point out a multitude of sources. creations, however, he says these same pieces do not work for
“I get it from the customers … and from nature,” he details. Canada and the U.S. “Taste is different. In Europe people are
“I get inspired from antique areas as well, different designs of a very gentle with their jewellery,” Simon elaborates. “If they’re
building, styles of marble, old places and countries.” Ideas are doing the dishes, they remove it. In North America, they do
spurred by a host of other sources, and once Simon and his anything with it.”
designers have planted the seeds for a new, original piece, they
sit down and hash out the details.“First we have a direction like In Simon’s opinion, Canada and the U.S. have much in
a certain type of ring,” Simon declares. “Then, we make rough common when it comes to their taste in jewellery. “I think
sketches and later we sit down and start improving those ideas.” the U.S. and Canada … have such a close society that any
pieces we like here, they like there,” he notes, “One thing
Once the Simon G. design team has arrived at a “tight” sketch, about Canada … it’s a great market. Before we thought
the actual physical labour begins. Even though Simon G. Canadian buyers only like small pieces, but now we’re selling
upholds many of the traditional practices when crafting its expensive pieces … $9,000 … $10,000. It’s great.”
jewellery, team members are certainly not loath to inject
evolving technology into the mix. “We draw on a CAD/CAM,”
he says. “I still feel like I’m old school. In the old days we used
to make it from wax. From scratch.” Now, Simon G. mixes CAD
with what he refers to as a “hand feeling.” The process goes like
this: first, final sketches are rendered via CAD, then wax and
finally cast in silver. Simon explains that working with silver is
a must for him, as machines do not give him that feeling or
human touch. “A feeling translates to the piece,” he says.
Setting the Trend

Like most designers, Simon keeps a close watch over industry
trends. However, it is Simon G.’s customers – both retailers
and consumers – that drive the direction of his designs.
“I look for what a customer wants,” Simon remarks.
“When I’m visiting customers, I get a feel for what they like.”
Simon is quick to point out that preferences for styles
are changing all the time, which is why he makes sure to
introduce fresh new designs on a regular basis. “I visit Italy
and France and really like their [designers’] feel and touch.” Ring in rose, white
and yellow gold with
canary and white
diamonds.

designerprofile
Gold pendant combined

with brilliant white diamonds
and centre stone.
Not to mention, Simon has a passion for yellow and pink

diamonds, which he introduced into the marketplace in
1985. He says there was quite a bit of resistance in the
beginning, but today the stones are very popular.
Designing to the Demographic

“The majority of my customers are [women] between 24 and
45,” Simon explains. “They’re young … they want something
different. They want to look good and enjoy life.” Simon says
that consumers are looking for delicacy in design, along with
an overall look that is clean and simple. “The new generation
Simon G. Jewelry is considered to be a trendsetter by many, is surprising,” he continues. “They know a lot about
especially when it comes to its Pavé Set creations. “We’re a jewellery … they go on the Internet and they learn a lot and
master of this setting,” Simon points out. “And it’s doing better love details.” Like most consumer groups, those that fall into
and better every year.” There is no doubt that Pavé Set the jewellery sect are becoming more and more knowledge-
jewellery has become fashionable, as Simon explains, “People able. In Simon’s view, the new generations love the detailing,
like to focus on the centre diamonds, but like to have the which is why all Simon G. designs pay explicit attention to
setting dressed with other diamonds.” every nuance. “Inside of the ring, I try to make it so shiny,”
Simon states. “If the hidden places [of the piece] look like
The Right Stuff that, what do you expect from the rest of the ring?” Price, of
One of the most popular lines in Simon G.’s portfolio is its course, is still a mitigating factor when it comes to purchase
bridal ring collection, along with its lineup of exquisitely decisions, and Simon is well in tune with this fact.
detailed fashion jewellery. Price points range from “They might like something, but if it’s out of their budget,
$1,000-4,000 on the retail side and this year, Simon G. is you don’t make the sale” he says. “But we know our customers,
excited to launch a new, higher-end collection that goes from what they can afford. We know what their budget is.”
$15,000-50,000. When it comes to price, though, Simon has a
finite strategy that retailers would be wise to take note of. By commingling unique pieces with a modern sensibility and
“When we manufacture a piece, we want the woman to be practical structure, Simon G. Jewelry has earned its reputation
able to buy it alone, which is why we try to hit $5,000.” as one of the leading designers in the industry. Add a solid
Simon explains that selling a piece is made much easier when relationship with customers and an understanding of the
a woman is shopping by herself. “We’ve done a lot of focus importance jewellery plays in the North American lifestyle,
groups where we asked women and found out that $5,000 is and the artisan has built a business that continues to thrive in
the target price for self purchasers. They said when it’s over all economic climes. “[Jewellery] makes them feel good,”
that, they have to ask their husbands.” Simon goes on to say Simon concludes. “My philosophy is that as long as there are
that woman tend to spend much more easily than their male women, the jewellery business will always be there.” [CJ]
counterparts. “They’ve got to have it. That’s their mentality,”
he states. “They fall in love with it.”
Rich gold combined
Currently, the Simon G. design team is mainly focusing on with bright diamonds
engagement and bridal rings. “More everyday pieces,” Simon and centre stone.
says. “Clean and simple that looks different than anyone
else’s.” As far as the materials that go into these pieces, he says
that he is a firm believer in using different alloys. “In white
[gold], I always try to mix a little yellow or pink. You put a
small accent in there and the piece looks so very different.”
Simon adds that diamonds are still the dominant precious
stone, though he is a fan of some semi-precious varieties
including aquamarine and tourmaline. “Coloured stones
are my passion,” he adds. “I love rubies and sapphires.”

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All that
is not Gold
If you are selling, preparing estimates for custom work or appraising, you must consider
the current price of platinum. This is not a constant right now, so keep up with and remain
aware of all the factors in the cost and value of this precious metal.
B Y D UNCAN PARKER
here is no doubt that we would all like to know what is Platinum: Where and Why
going to happen to the price of things in the near to
There is some wonderful platinum jewellery from France.
distant future. In our industry right now, the price of
This country was not the exclusive user of platinum, though
precious metals must be driving everyone mad, if we
are not already there. There have been fluctuations of a some of the best platinum work certainly originated there in
hundred dollars an ounce for certain metals in a single day in the 1920’s and 1930’s. Art Deco brooches, bracelets and dress
the past six months. clips were produced there by the best French workshops. The
platinum was set with diamonds, and the bright white metal
was a complement to the increased sparkle from the newly
Volatility is a word that the economists like to use. We hear invented brilliant cut for diamonds.
the word “nuts” more often than “volatile” in the corridors
and elevators of the jewellery industry. How do you carry an In the United States in the 1930’s, bracelets, rings and brooches
inventory of gold or platinum when a month can bring as made of gold with thin platinum tops were quite common.
much as 25% variability in price? If the swing is down, that The platinum tops were often bead set with diamonds, and
lowers the value of your held inventory, because you the platinum retained its bright white colour. Often, metal quality
inevitably have to keep in line with current pricing to remain stamps do not indicate the platinum component of these items.
competitive. If the price goes up, you can sell with modest
pricing or make up for the losses you might make during the The late 19th century saw the discovery of platinum in Southern
next price downturn. Africa and Russia. Platinum was extracted as a by-product of
mining other metals. This meant that platinum was more
We will focus on platinum in this column. Platinum is a available for use in jewellery.
brilliant white metal that is hard, durable, heavy and
works very well with diamonds. Platinum is not that old The main reason for the sudden use of platinum in jewellery was
as a jewellery metal. Before the mid-19th century, its use the discovery of efficient methods for melting the metal. The
was almost unknown, with the exception that there have melting point of platinum is 1773.5 degrees Celsius. This very
been some Pre-Columbian platinum items discovered. high temperature requires heat that is beyond a conventional
With the advent of fabulous Art Deco design, with its sharp jeweller’s oxygen and propane or natural gas torch. The melting,
geometry and clean lines, there was a desire for a bright white fusing and soldering of platinum is conventionally carried out
metal. Platinum provided a permanently bright white surface, using oxygen and acetylene. Now many workshops use very
and this was ideal for the jewellery of the Art Deco designers. costly laser welders for a lot of platinum work.

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facevalue
“Platinum is a top choice among those

Currently, in addition to the traditional styles of engagement getting engaged, though there is a very
jewellery, there are some exceptional items made in platinum. large price difference between a gold
Tension set rings are mostly made in platinum, and are a striking
combination of metal and gem. These have to be hand forged to
ring and an identical ring in platinum.
”
harden the metal so that the ring will hold the gem securely,
and really must be made by an expert.
Leave it to the Experts

There are many workshops that will work with platinum, but
far fewer that can do it well. The melting point of gold is If you add the price differential in the raw metals, variation
approximately half of that for platinum, so it is easy to see due to the very high purity alloy in platinum, one third more
that there might be a temptation to accept a platinum repair weight in platinum over gold items of the same dimensions,
job, but use white gold for the work. There is a major colour and the cost of a specialist platinum workshop, it is not hard
difference between platinum and white gold. Improperly to understand why jewellery built from platinum is in a special
done repair or solder work is cheaper and certainly looks it. place as a jewellery metal.
Platinum work is best done by specialists who have the skills
and equipment to work with it. Additionally, if you want If you are an appraiser of platinum you should give consideration
handmade platinum jewellery, it really needs to be crafted by to design, originality, finish, labour and brand, in addition
a specialist. to the pure price factors for the metal. Also, consider that
there are some items made with platinum and gold, such as
There are, however, some very well-made platinum mounts gold rings with platinum claw settings. There is a difference
and semi-mounts that do not require soldering. These can in the appearance of the metal, and it is good to become
then be set without the requirement for the high temperature familiar with the appearance of platinum to help detect
solder work used in building platinum items. These mounts platinum components that are not stamped “Plat,”
fill a need, meet a price point and are quite popular. “Platinum” or “Pt950” (the stamp conventionally used in the
United States).
Platinum is not, however, simply an alternative for gold.
Platinum is a top choice among those getting engaged, Platinum used in Canada is generally 95% platinum.
though there is a very large price difference between a gold However, in other countries, different purities are used. For
ring and an identical ring in platinum. There are several example, in Japan, 90% is used (stamped “900”), and in
reasons for the difference: Hong Kong sometimes “18-karat platinum” is used and is
usually stamped “750.” An item stamped “750” could be
Cost of the metal: Pure platinum is nearly double the mistaken for “750” or 18-karat gold if you do not recognize
price of gold per ounce. Platinum’s standard alloy is 95% the difference in appearance or if you do not test the metal.
platinum, with only 5% other metals, while in Canada, The reason for lower purities (“karat platinum”) being used
gold can legally be alloyed to as low as 9-karat (37.5% is the high cost of platinum, combined with a continued
gold with other metals), but even in its standard high karat is demand for the metal.
18-karat (75% gold). This means that a 10-gram ring of 18-karat
gold would have 7.5 grams of pure gold, for $198.95 in gold With wild fluctuations in metal prices, it is difficult to keep a
(based on $825.00 per ounce). A platinum ring of the same fix on the price of platinum, and you can see that there are
weight would have 9.5 grams of pure platinum, for $458.20 in many factors to be considered in arriving at cost or value for
platinum (based on $1,500.00 per ounce). this bright white metal. You really do have to follow the daily
price fix for platinum as with all the precious metals.
Density of the metal: Platinum is the densest of
the precious metals. 18-karat yellow gold has an Also keep in mind that the factors we have explored here
average relative density of 15.5, and pure platinum has do not even begin to discuss additional dynamics such as
a relative density of 21.4. This means that pure design and labour in hand-making platinum jewellery. You
platinum can be as much as 38% heavier than an item of the can look forward to learning more about these details in an
same size in 18-karat yellow gold. upcoming column. [CJ]

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Colin Ferguson
Going from Emotional to Profitable

Natural, fancy coloured diamonds are gaining in popularity and for more than their aesthetic
appeal. These striking precious gems are turning an emotional investment into a financial one,
and Rare & Precious Gems is leading the charge.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
C
olin Ferguson found his way into collecting and dealing
coloured gems for the very same reason as many others.
“Like a lot of people in the industry, when white stones got
commoditized,” the President of Rare & Precious Gems
explains. Since becoming brokers, the Company has become the
largest dealer of natural, fancy coloured diamonds in Canada, a trend
that Mr. Ferguson plans to continue. “We’re becoming one of the
biggest in the world… with direct access to Argyle, we can grow the
business in ways we couldn’t imagine.”
“I started off in retail with Spence Diamonds,” Mr. Ferguson details

when broaching his foray into the diamond trade. After moving into a
management role to help Spence open stores, Mr. Ferguson became an
agent for Eddy Gryspeerdt, a former DeBeers diamond sight dealer.
“He [Mr. Gryspeerdt] taught me how to look at diamonds,” Mr. Pink RD Ring
Ferguson notes. With that knowledge in place, he packed a briefcase
full of diamonds and travelled across North America. Not long after,
Mr. Ferguson broke out on his own and started wholesaling to the
trade, and his company began expanding at a rapid pace. “It just grew
and grew and grew,” he says, until Rare & Precious Gems became one
of the top businesses in the industry.

companyprofile
Some 18 years ago, Rare & Precious Gems specialized in white

diamonds. This focus changed two years ago to natural coloured
diamonds when they were still quite obscure. Much has changed since
then as Mr. Ferguson says, “Today, it’s [coloured diamonds] the fastest
growing part of the industry. Maybe even in history.” And Rare &
Precious Gems is ideally positioned to help retailers take full advantage
of these opportunities as “We have everything from the 20 carat pink
diamond down to the one point Champagne. We have it all,” Mr.
Ferguson says, and it is not an understatement, as Rare & Precious “ This market is growing
Gems’ lines cover the complete spectrum with Pink, Blue, Champagne, by 35-40% per year…
Orange, Red, Purple, Green, Yellow and Black diamonds. he amazing thing is people
have never seen these
“This market is growing by 35-40% per year,” Mr. Ferguson is quick to
mention. “The amazing thing is people have never seen these [coloured [coloured diamonds]
diamonds] before… people in the industry. What people want is before… people in the
something unique and different. That’s what these diamonds are.”
industry. What people want
While white diamonds are still the predominant “colour” in the
industry, Mr. Ferguson firmly believes that this variety has become is something unique and
commoditized and will continue along this trend. “For five years I was different. That’s what these
in denial with what happened with white diamonds,” he says. “I kept
saying they’d come back as a luxury market. But they aren’t.”
diamonds are.
”
A Rare Breed
Today, Rare & Precious Gems is a mine-to-market broker of diamonds
and rare gems. Servicing wholesalers and the international jewellery
trade, luxury retailers and jewellery designers, the Company prides
itself on offering the highest quality natural and untreated coloured
diamonds and precious gems. Another important detail to note is that
all are deemed conflict-free under the Kimberly Process, as well as
certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
Future plans include moving into the Asian market, and Mr. Ferguson
will be travelling to Shanghai and Hong Kong to meet with diamond
distributors. Rare & Precious Gems is staffed by a group of
knowledgeable industry professionals, including Coloured Diamond
Consultants Kim Helman, Melanie Mokhtari and Nicole Law, all of
whom are GIA trained.
Rare & Precious Gems is known best for its collection of coloured
diamonds (all stones carry GIA certification), which are mined from
Australia’s Argyle Mine, the world’s largest supplier of pink diamonds
(it accounts for approximately one-quarter of the world's natural
diamond production). Pink diamonds are the most sought after stone,
and the mine also produces an array of champagne and cognac
diamonds.
Argyle began mining its main ore body in 1985, and has since produced
over 600 million carats of diamonds. The life of the open pit operation
presently extends to 2008. The AK1 pipe continues at depth, and for
this reason an underground mine is being developed. This will extend
the life of the mine to approximately 2018.

companyprofile
1. Last year, Argyle retained its finest pink diamonds (1% of its production)
for its annual Pink Tender. The private, invitation-only tender was open to
100 top international diamond brokers, jewellers and luxury retailers,
Rare & Precious Gems being one of them. “It’s the most prestigious
invitation in the industry,” Mr. Ferguson says without a doubt. “They
allow 100 people to view the collection. Of those, 17 were successful at
getting one stone.” Which gives you some insight as to how significant Mr.
Ferguson’s purchase of seven diamonds truly is.
2.
From Emotional to Financial
While coloured diamonds are certainly the rarest and most expensive of
the breed, Mr. Ferguson points out another important factor that all
jewellery retailers will be glad to learn. “Jewellers get to make margins on
these coloured diamonds,” he states. To help retailers capitalize on the
profits coloured stones represent, Mr. Ferguson launched
1. Blue Oval Circle Ring pinkluxury.com, a website intended to, “provide an introductory level line
2. Oval Orange Ring for jewellers,” he clarifies. Mr. Ferguson goes on to say that many jewellers
have been struggling with diversification, and coloured diamonds give
them a, “tremendous edge. The coloured diamond world is growing at an
alarming rate.” A perfect example of this growth is the recent sale of a 2.2
carat intense pink stone made by Rare & Precious Gems. “We sold it for
$860,000USD [wholesale],” Mr. Ferguson points out. Other coloured
stones are also going up in value at a fast rate. “We also sold a two carat
champagne [diamond] that sold for $6,000USD.”
“The jewellers need to get knowledgeable and get them [coloured

diamonds] into their inventory,” Mr. Ferguson urges. “This is the future of
the industry.” Rare & Precious Gems plans to educate retailers on the
many virtues of these rare stones by sending members of Argyle out to
teach retailers how to sell. In-store information will also play a role in the
education process, which will include the Company’s joint venture with
Rio Tinto in the form of their Champagne Campaign. “We’ll go right into
the stores and teach them,” Mr. Ferguson says. Rare & Precious gems will
also be launching a nationwide support program to get the word out on
these rarest of gems. “We intend to make natural coloured stones the most
sought after gems in the world with Argyle and Rio Tinto,” he points out.
Making Diamonds Profitable

Mr. Ferguson is excited to say that coloured diamonds present
Canadian jewellery retailers with the opportunity to make diamonds
profitable again. “It’s exciting to be in the coloured jewel business –
we’re helping jewellers make money,” he exclaims. And if these retailers,
along with other industry members, are under the impression that
coloured diamonds are simply another fad, Mr. Ferguson states, “Think
again. The white diamond industry is becoming too affordable.” He
may be right, as new sales channels, most notably online, have saturated
the white diamond market even further. Fortunately, natural fancy
coloured diamonds represent not only an emotional investment, but
also, “a financial one. We’re teaching jewellers how to make money
selling diamonds again,” says Mr. Ferguson. [CJ]

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marketwatch
Geomarketing Comes to
Jewellery
Di Modolo, Milano 18K
gold Triadra necklace.
In every business, the ability to put the right

product into the right market at the right time is the
proverbial ‘Holy Grail.’ And from the point of view of
any business analyst, the jewellery industry has
been massively inefficient in this regard since the
dawn of large-scale jewellery manufacturing.
B Y R OBIN G AMBHIR
roducing any piece of jewellery is a capital intensive
P business requiring expensive input costs in raw materials

such as precious metals, diamonds, gemstones and labour.
In addition, jewellery is a luxury item which asks consumers
to spend discretionary income on a something that appeals on
an emotional level — something which adds a greater degree
of uncertainty to a product’s success in the market.

“prefer
Happily, most consumers still
to purchase their jewellery
from a store in their community;
local jewellers provide a level
of service that online-only retailers
will never be able to match.
”
With the advent of online shopping, the process of tracking of finished jewellery, loose diamonds, watches, clocks and
consumer behaviour and preferences became easier for online giftware on a retail site), it gives independent retailers
retailers, who could track product sales from their website. more inventory to drive a sale than any other jewellers’
That was fine for online-only plays such as Blue Nile, but what website. Every time consumers shop on a site powered by
about independent jewellers who do the majority of their sales OpenBlue, everything they click on is recorded and fed back
in a store? Happily, most consumers still prefer to purchase to the retailer and their suppliers. When a supplier’s rep
their jewellery from a store in their community; local jewellers visits the store, there is no doubt about the items that should
provide a level of service that online-only retailers will never be held in stock by the retailer. Using this data, suppliers can
be able to match. But independent jewellers and their suppliers deploy the right product into the right market. Retailers who
need new tools to compete in markets that are faster and want to give it a try, can go to www.openbluestores.com.
smarter than ever before.
See the Market
Giving Local Jewellers the Tools to Compete Up until now, readers of CJ have had the benefit of seeing
OpenBlue’s raison d’etre has always been to provide those the market for different categories of jewellery through
local, independent jewellers with modern websites that give statistics; these statistics and the magazine’s consumer-driven
them the ability to compete by leveraging their suppliers’ lists of the top 10 and top 100 are unprecedented in the
inventory. This approach provides consumers shopping industry. With this edition of Canadian Jeweller, OpenBlue is
online with an inventory that is wider and deeper than any pleased to show the next level of market data — maps. In this
online-only retailer could match. And since OpenBlue sites and upcoming editions of “Market Watch,” you will be able to
drive traffic into the store (displaying an average of 10,000 items actually see the market for jewellery.

marketwatch
Map 1. A world map where each balloon represents one or more

consumers from the particular city that clicked on the Canadian
diamonds category. Noticeably, there is a lot of traffic from the
United States.
screen snapshot
screen snapshot
Map 2. Results for consumers searching for loose Canadian

diamonds. The map depicts interest in Canadian diamonds/
diamond jewellery across the country, as well as central
and eastern United States.
Map 3. In this map, there is a different distribution pattern for

a particular style. There is some interest from the west coast of
the United States, as well as heavy concentrations in Ontario
and Alberta.
screen snapshot
Using this new technology, OpenBlue can now map market OpenBlue retail sites have a category of finished jewellery
data for any category of jeweller, any loose diamond, watch, called “Made with Canadian Diamonds.” Shown on this page
clock or giftware item. This serves as a broad step towards that is a world map (Map 1) where each balloon represents one or
‘Holy Grail’ of putting the right product into the right market more consumer(s) from the particular city that clicked on this
at the right time. Using geographical data to guide sales and category. While the majority of OpenBlue-powered retail sites
marketing is known as Geomarketing. OpenBlue will make are based in Canada, there is a lot of traffic from the United
this data available to the industry as a free service this fall at States and some scattered distribution across the globe. That
www.thewiredjeweller.com. Detailed statistics, along with our means that a lot of Americans are finding these Canadian
top 10/100 lists, will continue to be available in the pages of retailers and shopping at their sites.
Canadian Jeweller.
Many OpenBlue retailers also have loose diamond searches
Mapping The Market For Canadian Diamonds on their sites and one of the options on those searches is to only
So-called “blood diamonds” have led to an increased demand show Canadian diamonds. Map 2 shows all the consumers who
for Canadian diamonds as their “conflict-free” status seems selected that option when searching for loose diamonds.
unimpeachable amongst consumers. Indeed, Canadian
diamonds have become the “brand” for diamonds free of the Maps 1 and 2 depict a lot of interest in Canadian diamonds and
blood diamond stigma. So while retailers offer Canadian Canadian diamond jewellery across Canada and in central and
diamonds, and diamond jewellery made with Canadian eastern United States. These maps represent broad trends and
diamonds are largely based in Canada, the demand for them in the online version of the mapping system, you can zoom in
could extend outside of North America. on any area and pick out specific areas of concentration.

marketwatch
“Applying this sort of Geomarketing technology to jewellery

takes a lot of the guesswork out of deploying products for both
retailers and manufacturers.
”
Polar Ice Canadian

For a supplier trying to decide where to market a specific diamond solitaire
style and for a retailer who is trying to decide what to stock,
they need very specific information. To illustrate, we selected
a Polar Ice Canadian diamond solitaire.
When we look at map 3 on the previous page, we can see that

this particular style has a different distribution pattern,
compared to the broader maps which show general interest
Dall'Avo for Gold Expressions 18K
in Canadian diamonds. Here, the style of the ring itself
gold white cromo collection with
comes into play and we can see some interest from the west hardened white ceramic.
coast of the United States. In Canada, there is strong
interest across the country, with heavy concentrations in
Ontario and Alberta.
Applying this sort of Geomarketing technology to jewellery

takes a lot of the guesswork out of deploying products for
both retailers and manufacturers. Over time, geomarketing
will yield efficiencies and save everyone time and money by
putting the right products in the right markets. [CJ]

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storefeature
Graham Jewelers in Wayzata, Minnesota
How store design is effective

in establishing a brand
and differentiating your store.
Making an impression
B Y G LEN A. B ERES
tore design is one of the key areas where jewellers can
S differentiate themselves from their competitors.

Eye-catching colour schemes and materials, intriguing
interiors, innovative custom display cases and superior
lighting are just a few of the many design factors that can help
put a jeweller’s business over the top. Current design trends
geared toward larger store space, stand-alone stores, different
colours, textures and materials, upscale looks and green initiatives
are among some of the prime design strategies jewellers are
utilizing to make an impact on their market.

Let There Be Light

Lighting is one of the most critical store design elements for
jewellers in terms of enhancing their merchandise presentation
and increasing sales. However, lighting can be very costly,
both in terms of installation and high-energy bills.
That’s why more and more jewellers are turning to solutions
such as pendant fixtures that can hang down from the ceiling
and lower the lighting to five feet above the case. Experts note
that by using this type of drop-down lighting, jewellers can
illuminate an entire case with just one light and cut their
electric bills considerably.
Eco-Lite Products is one of the leading lighting companies that

Elegant-looking wood showcase
serves the jewellery industry. According to Howard Gurock,
President of the Tappan, New York-based firm, some of the key
Trends in the Making factors that jewellers need to consider in lighting their stores are:
Perhaps the biggest industry trend impacting store design
right now is that independents are leaving the shopping N Ceiling Height. As the source of light moves farther away
centres and opening their own freestanding locations. from the merchandise, the power and intensity of the
Many jewellers are taking this step in order to eliminate light diminishes. Stores with higher ceilings (over nine
costly mall and shopping centre rents, while taking control of feet) either have to use more lights that are spaced closer
their own destiny and becoming more of a destination. together to illuminate a showcase, or bring the light
source closer by dropping down a track or using a pendant.
According to Keith Kovar, a Partner with retail design firm N Colour. The colour of light is measured in Kelvins
Grid 3 International in New York City, the move towards larger, (temperature). The higher the Kelvin reading, the cooler
freestanding stores means that jewellers can offer more the colour of light. As the temperature of light gets too
services and choices to the customer, making them “more high, the colour of light begins to take on a blue quality.
than just a bunch of showcases.” N Bulb Life/Quality. How long a bulb is expected to last is
based upon its “rated life.” Better bulbs have a rated life
“We see more and more jewellers with larger stores in the in excess of 10,000 hours. The quality of a bulb also can
4,000-7,000 square foot range building in multi-purpose be measured by its Colour Rendition Index (CRI).
[spaces, which] they can use for events,” Kovar says. “They’re The higher the CRI of a bulb, the better the quality of
looking for someplace to hold trunk shows, charity events, the light that it projects. CRI numbers over 80 signify a
men’s nights, ladies’ nights and other key events.” very high quality of light.
N Power of Light. The power of a bulb is measured in
Jewellers are also turning to more environmentally-friendly lumens. The amount of light generated is measured in
designs in their stores to save money and “get on the same Lux, or more commonly, foot-candles. The higher the
page” as their customers, who consider the green initiative lumens, the higher the amount of foot-candles that will
important, Kovar adds. This includes using recycled materials, be generated by a bulb.
more earth tones and natural materials like wood and bamboo. N Different Light Sources. The three main sources of light
Jewellers are also looking at ways to conserve electricity by used in jewellery stores are ceramic metal halide, halogen
using lighting sources that draw less power or installing solar and fluorescent. According to Gurock, the best source
panels on the roof to generate their own power. for lighting jewellery is ceramic metal halide due to its
energy efficiency, power and availability in warm and cool
While these kinds of design initiatives are more expensive colours and, not to mention, excellent CRI. In comparison,
than the norm, Kovar notes that today, jewellers are willing to halogens are hot, have lower CRIs, do not maintain their
put more money into design so that the store lasts longer colour over the life of the bulb and offer about a third of the
than the typical leased space. “If you can do something now power of a ceramic metal halide. Fluorescents are energy
that costs you 2-3% more to put in, but over the life of the efficient, but do not project enough power to be useful in a
store you’ll save 10-15%, it’s a no brainer,” he claims. jewellery store for illuminating merchandise, Gurock adds.

storefeature
While LED lighting is very popular right now with jewellers,

Gurock warns that this option has its limitations.
“LED technology is constantly changing, so a fixture you buy “Jewellers are also willing to put
today will be outdated in a year,” he says. “Also, keeping a con- more money into their showcases
sistent colour of the LED over time can be problematic due as a way to separate themselves
to the changes in LED technology. Finally, LED lights can
make jewellery look great inside of the showcase, but they are
from their competitors.
”
not powerful enough to be placed over the case where the sale
is actually made. Due to this limitation, a different source of
light is required above the showcase such as ceramic metal 1
halide or halogen. This can cause problems by making a piece
look different in the case than it does when the salesperson
takes it out to show it.”
Showcases Matter
There’s no doubt that custom displays have become increasingly
popular. Independents are making a commitment to more
displays, especially those that are larger, taller and more
upscale, says Keely Grice, owner of Grice Showcase & Display
Manufacturing Co. in Charlotte, N.C.
Grice notes that retailers are looking for higher displays to

bring the merchandise closer to the customer’s eye, making it
easier for the salesperson to reach in the case, while getting
extra storage space.
Jewellers are also willing to put more money into their

showcases as a way to separate themselves from their
competitors. This includes opting for a seamed glass look to 2
enhance the view of the product (the front glass is bonded to
the top glass, as opposed to a traditional case with metal front
rails supporting and separating top and front glass panels);
moving away from wood and using newer laminates that
have a richer, truer-looking wood finish; and moving away
from white case interiors to softer, creamier colours and
installing radius showcases (rather than traditional angular
cases) to provide radial “movement” in the store.
Overall, “the aggressive jewellers we work with who are

willing to put more money into their stores are having
good years,” Grice says. “They are moving to freestanding
stores because they’re tired of paying high mall costs; they
are designing larger stores, and they are even building their
own buildings and becoming landlords by leasing out
the extra space to other retailers. They are making a larger
commitment to showcase and design work to separate
themselves, establish a store brand and give their stores some 1. LaViano Jewelers in Englewood, New Jersey
decorative pop. They are doing these things to make their 2. Boutique with higher, seamed glass displays
businesses better.” [CJ]

066-071.CJ_CoverStory02.qxd:Layout 1 9/17/08 2:30 PM Page 66
Myles Mindham, Mindham Fine Jewellery Inc.
Goingthat extra
066-071.CJ_CoverStory02.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:30 AM Page 67
coverstory
When it comes to unique

designs and customer service,
Mindham Fine Jewellery is in
a class all by itself.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
P HOTOGRAPHY BY DAVIDE B AGNAROL
Mile SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008 CJ 67

original sketch
A symbol of wanting and wishing, the four-leaf clover evokes

Myles Mindham, commenting on the inspiration for his botanical collection. the memory of childhood magic and fantasy. 1.97 carat tsavorite
and 35 carat diamonds in 18-karat white gold.
I It was 25 years ago that Myles Mindham began casting his

legacy as one of Canada’s most esteemed jewellery retailers and
designers. Mindham’s intense fascination with jewellery
developed at an early age, and he began living his fantasy
working with a manufacturer that designed and retailed its own
goods. It was during this period that he discovered the many
By developing a loyal clientele from his prior venture, Mindham
points out, “I started off with bespoke work in the true sense
of the word. I began making unique pieces and catered to my
clients’ needs for extraordinary service. It grew from there.”
Mindham sketched out designs based on his clients’ wishes and

intricacies of the jewellery business — from purchasing then went ahead and created the pieces from there. As his
diamonds to the execution of jewellery. notoriety grew along with the demand for his creations, he
opened a retail store on the main floor of the Park Hyatt.
In 1986, with the backing of two investment bankers, Mindham “I opened it as a test for retail,” he says. This certainly paid off.
began his first venture into retail with a store specializing in Since opening the retail store, revenues have doubled. Today, the
coloured stones from Brazil. As the store’s operating partner, store and upper office are staffed by 18 people who provide the
Mindham travelled to Manaus and Rio de Janerio to design knowledge, expertise and, of course, service that the retailer’s
and execute the product for Stones Fine Jewellery. This customers have come to rely upon.
partnership dissolved amicably in 1990 when Mindham took
a professional sabbatical and travelled to Europe to explore Service Never Sleeps
the world of luxury retail when he was 30. “Having understood Mindham and his staff approach service with just as much
the ins and outs of the Toronto retail jewellery business passion as they do their jewellery. “My clients are people that
and the very different ways the luxury market catered to its can shop anywhere,” he details. “They shop with me because we
clientele in other parts of the world, I realized there was an have a relationship.” These strong associations have been built
opportunity, and I remembered what my father said, ‘There upon a unique and in-depth level of service that includes
are many opportunities in business. Do what you love, success everything from the management of jewellery portfolios and
will surely follow.’” insurance issues, to burning CDs, to catalogue pieces, and
consulting on the clients’ safe layout and the storage of their fine
And he did just that. In 1990, Mindham opened Myles Mindham jewellery. Mindham is not shy to point out that he and his staff
Jewellery Ltd., now known as Mindham Fine Jewellery Inc., go even further than that. “We pick up and deliver jewellery.
in the Park Hyatt Hotel in downtown Toronto. We even went to a customer’s cottage and had the piece sitting

coverstory
original sketch original sketch
A symbol of potential: from a tiny acorn, a mighty oak can grow. Warm sapphire tones are used to intimate the delicacy of this exquisite
The diamonds reflect the earth tones of fall. Acorn cufflinks with black Japanese maple pendant. Pink sapphires, 8,99 carat on 18-karat white gold.
diamond pavé, mounted on white and yellow gold, with a black rhodium. Brooch doubles as a pendant necklace.
and waiting on the dock at a certain time. You truly have to and Backes & Strauss, is based on the architectural designs of
offer world-class service. With top clients like mine … when they John Nash during the Regency period in London and “are a
want something, you have to deliver.” standout style piece sure to appeal to my clientele,” he notes.
Another forthcoming line, Perrelet, has the distinction of being
Making sure his clients get exactly what they want has always a company founded by Abraham Louis Perrelet, inventor of the
been a commitment. However, according to the retailer /designer, automatic watch. Mindham states, “a good portion of my
the greatest sales tool at his disposal is trust. “When I call a business is high-end watches. It’s a hot category; we like to offer
husband or a wife and tell them there’s something they need to our clientele watches others don’t have in this market and are of
see, they come because we never call unnecessarily. They trust me the finest quality. My clients have seen these watches in
to navigate their jewellery collections. Breaking that trust could Aspreys, Harrods and Bergdorf ’s, and appreciate being able to
become viral. At this end of the market, word travels fast.” acquire them at home.” Primary categories at the store include
exotic pearls, coloured stone bracelets, necklaces and earrings.
Unique by Design “It’s all about luxury accessorizing,” Mindham notes.
From a retail perspective, Mindham Fine Jewellery is a rare breed,
as it does not only sell fine jewellery, but creates its own pieces. Because Mindham Fine Jewellery is so unique, Mindham says
Mindham’s lines include Branches, a romantic interpretation of that, “My largest competition is my clients’ art collections and
nature; Caviar, winner of the 2004 Excellence in Design award; travel.” Mindham adds that some people are tougher than
Hardware, an everyday, durable collection; Software, a 1997 others when it comes to pricing, though he is resolute when it
Diamonds Today award winner; Elegance, classic designs inspired comes to his store’s price points. “We stick to our guns,” he says.
by simplicity; Fluid, a series of original, convertible and wearable “We never go on sale because it cheapens the brand.”
pieces; Genesis, yet another award-winning original line; and
finally Mod, jewellery inspired by the bold graphics of the 1970’s. Luxurious Comfort
Insofar as what lines he does carry, Mindham explains, “We were Like most retailers, Myles is fully aware of how important
the first to introduce Frank Mueller watches in Toronto. We’re it is to keep on top of industry trends. In fact, he has gone
also launching a line from Backes Luxury, the new division of a step further by creating an advisory board, which is made
Backes & Strauss, the oldest diamond company in London.” up of some of his clients who happen to be captains of
This hybrid series of timepieces, crafted by both Frank Mueller industry.“I have five extraordinary advisors for business.

“We stick to our guns.

We never go on sale because
it cheapens the brand.
”
Baroque pearls, measuring 13.90-15.70mm with a 2.20 carat diamond clasp which mimics the shape of the pearls.
Set in 18-karat white gold, the clasp becomes a feature. The pearls are a careful selection of South Sea, Australian
and Indonesian Gold, chosen for their rare shapes and colour.
For style and design, I consult a group of 11 clients spanning Celebrities including former Prima Ballerina, Karen Kain, and
most of my client profile.” Mindham continues to say that actress, Kim Catrall, are just a few of the notable people that
these individuals fall outside of the jewellery industry, and can be seen wearing Mindham’s creations. While having such
feed him information on how they see Mindham and how he visible people sporting these designs is great, “none of my
runs his business. clients will buy a piece because a celebrity wears it,” he says.
“But it builds awareness – they’re brand ambassadors.”
When it comes to the store itself, Mindham has also taken an Another of these ambassadors, award-winning Canadian
innovative approach. In lieu of typical showcase displays, Soprano, Measha Brueggergosman, wears Mindham
Mindham Fine Jewellery exhibits its exquisite designs and internationally and has inspired a new line, the Measha
watches in galleries. The décor of the store has an elegant Collection, which Mindham plans to unveil this October.
residential feel, an environment Mindham believes his clients
feel much more comfortable in, but something very difficult to The primary marketing tool for the retailer/designer, though, is
achieve. “The hardest job in the world is to create an philanthropy. “Over the last 10 years, we’ve given away dozens of
environment where people feel at ease while selecting fine pieces at some of our clients’ fundraisers.” A good cause is a
jewellery,” he reflects. highly effective medium for placing Mindham’s creations in the
hands of the jewellery-wearing community. More than that,
Marketing Measures Mindham says that “my clients support me and I support them.”
Getting the word out is also one of the toughest jobs facing Finally, he is a firm believer in the recognition and attention that
any jewellery retailer, a fact that Mindham is fully aware of. winning design awards grants his business. “It’s a tremendous
This explains why he manages all of his store’s press via a PR tool to build our reputation in the early developing years.”
firm. A huge part of the marketing mix includes a focused
and regular run of direct mail campaigns, which inform Looking Ahead
Mindham’s clients of upcoming events, new products Future plans for the Company include focusing on accessible
and other store happenings. Mindham also runs ads in jewellery. “We hope to market more jewellery, like our Hardware
the papers for watches, but he says, “how we really market is line, through other retailers to create a national presence.”
by endorsements through well-known figures.” Recognizing that many of his client’s children were in the market

coverstory
“I am always amazed
by the extraordinary
simplicity of the
complex design of
nature, and I feel
so fortunate that it’s
my business to
capture what is natural
and express it in metal
and gems, with
exquisite detail.
”
319.62 carat cabachon-cut aquamarine

bracelet; gems set in 18-karat white gold.
for engagement and wedding bands, and with the increased

retail presence, Mindham has created his own bridal collection.
The general schedule for introducing new products is, “early

spring to get people interested, since most Canadians get
married in the summer, which means many are looking for
anniversary and wedding items,” he says. “Other key launch
periods are fall and pre-Christmas.” Mindham also organizes
trunk shows for these launches in Vancouver, and this year’s
event will mark the third anniversary of the promotion.
Insofar as how the industry has changed, Mindham points Echinacea blooms in the height of mid-summer
and is a beautiful symbol of the peak of that season,
out the sophistication of the jewellery consumer. “It’s affected
with a hint of sadness; summer will end.
us the most,” he says. “Younger people are going online… Ring with 5.20 carat purple sapphires, .59 carat yellow
learning more and more about jewellery and coming into sapphire at centre, set in 18-karat white gold.
the store with a lot more knowledge, making our sales job
much easier.” To ensure that Mindham Fine Jewellery captures
this highly informed market, it will be launching a new
website this fall. “To capture younger consumers, you need to
give them the resources they are comfortable using and need,”
says Mindham.
Mindham Fine Jewellery, and its customers, can expect big
What started out as a modest bespoke jewellery designer has things in the future. “The move to retail was the right move,”
transformed into one of this industry’s most innovative Mindham concludes. “And we’re definitely refining and
retailers. By providing its clients with one-of-a-kind creations, improving as we move ahead. We never stop learning and
and offering service that certainly goes the extra mile, adapting — that’s what makes things so exciting.” [CJ]

094-097.CJ_ExcellenceDesign02.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 1:06 PM Page 72
1 3
4 6
Photos by Davide Bagnarol
1. Darlene Mooney, Marquis Jewellers (accepting award for designer Socrates Reppas) with Olivier Felicio, 2. Herman Hess, Foresite Jewellery with Olivier Felicio,
3. Dieter Huebner, Foresite Jewellery with Olivier Felicio, 4. (left to right) Myles Mindham, Mindham Fine Jewellery and Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varouj
with Olivier Felicio, 5. Tracy Taylor, Dragonov Fine Jewellery Studio (accepting award for designer George Draganov) with Olivier Felicio, 6. (left to right) Alfredo Alvarez,
Aurum Design for Burgundy & Ballentine, Louis Louro, Louro Jewellers Inc. with Norma Meneguzzi Spall, Excellence in Design co-ordinator, 7. Alfredo Alvarez,
Aurum Design for Burgundy & Ballentine with Olivier Felicio
Excellent byDesign
This year’s Excellence in Design competition showcased some of Canada’s
most talented and innovative jewellery artisans.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
W
ith over 80 entries and support from Rio Tinto Diamonds, MCD Pearls, Byrex Gems Inc. and Rare & Precious Gems,
the 2008 Excellence in Design competition was bigger and better than ever. Choosing from categories including
Diamonds & Coloured Diamonds, Canadian Diamonds, Pearls, Platinum and Coloured Gemstones, judges were
treated to a stunning cavalcade of world-class designs that were as unique as they were beautiful.

awardsfeature
Winners of the event were announced at an awards

reception held during JCK Toronto on Monday, August 11.
Judges Anne Neumann (President, Harold Weinstein Ltd.),
Paul McClure (Professor, George Brown College, Jewellery
Design Program), Gail Golberg (CEO, Diarough Canada
Sales and Uni-Design Canada), Catherine Sproule
(Director, North American Operations Responsible Jewellery
Practices) and Melanie Egan (Head, Craft Department
Harbourfront Centre), had their work cut out for them, as
each entrant could easily have been declared the winner.
DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS

CATEGORY WINNER
“Hidden Treasure” diamond engagement ring and wedding

band by Varouj Tabakian, Toronto
This two-piece ensemble can be worn separately or together.

The hidden diamond ring features intricate etching on gold, with
four baguette diamonds totalling 0.25 carats. The outer ring
features 38 round brilliant cut diamonds totalling 1.01 carats.
DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS

CATEGORY HONOURABLE MENTION WINNERS
Swirled double shank ring with black diamonds

by Alfredo Alvarez, Aurum Design for
Burgundy & Ballantine Inc., Toronto
This 18-karat white gold setting features a 2.01 carat

diamond set within a swirled double shank of bead-set,
natural black diamonds weighing 2.00 carats in total.
Diamond necklace inspired by Ontario’s Niagara Region

by Louis Louro, Louro Jewellers, Toronto
More than nine carats are used in this handmade necklace

inspired by Ontario’s Niagara Region. The water and mist
are represented by vibrant blue and white diamonds. As the
diamonds cascade down the falls, they change into a flow of
red, purple, light green and yellow coloured diamonds
depicting the various wines of the Niagara Region. A wave
of tanzanite beads represents the Niagara River.

“I wake up most mornings and I sketch

out my ideas. Sometimes they come
quickly, sometimes they take a little longer.
But my designs are always totally unique,
which is why this ring won—there really
is nothing else like it.”
Herman Hess, Foresite Jewellery
CANADIAN DIAMONDS WINNER
Diamond accented spheres within a sphere dangle earrings by

Susan Kun, Susan Kun Jewellery Design, Canmore
A pair of round brilliant-cut Canadian diamonds totalling

0.52 carats are bezel-set in 18-karat yellow and white gold.
Two thin strands of gold connect the diamond studs to
diamond-accented gold spheres within a sphere.
CANADIAN DIAMONDS
HONOURABLE MENTION WINNERS
“Diamond wave ring” by Varouj Tabakian,

Jewellery by Varouj, Toronto
A 1.01 carat Canadian diamond rides the crest of a diamond

wave totalling 61 points in this 18-karat and platinum
diamond ring.
Cascading diamond pendant by Myles Mindham,

Myles Mindham Fine Jewellery, Toronto
Three round, brilliant-cut Canadian diamonds of 1.15tcw

take centre stage in this pendant of continuous circular
spheres, which also features three diamond bead set spheres
totalling 0.42 carats.

awardsfeature
PEARLS WINNER
Haute couture pearl ear ornaments by Dieter Huebner,

Foresite Jewellery, Toronto
Containing 51 natural seed, light cream rose pearls set in

18-20-karat white and yellow gold, this pair of ear
ornaments were hand-assembled and custom-made.
They fit over the ear and gently grace the cheekbones.
PEARLS
“We have so much talent here in Canada, Baroque pearl lariat necklace by Myles Mindham,
and these awards celebrate that. Mindham Fine Jewellery, Toronto
Canadian designers are as good as any
This 28-inch pearl lariat necklace features six baroque white
others around the world and we need to South Sea pearls measuring 12-15mm, which are flanked on
make sure people recognize that.” either side by circular 18-karat white gold beads set around
brilliant diamond accents of 1.71tcw. Facetted black
Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varouj
tourmaline beads weighing 182.21tcw separate each baroque
pearl. One of the baroque pearls is a removable pendant.
Milky white, blister pearl pendant by Mark Katzeff,

Mark Katzeff Goldsmith, Edmonton
A milky white blister pearl drop pendant is accented with a

gold and platinum swirl ending with a 0.05 carat diamond.

“When I found out I won, I had a smile on

my face for a whole week. The fact that
industry experts voted for my work made it
that much better. They really know how
hard it is to make this kind of a piece,
which means a lot.”
Susan Kun, Susan Kun Jewellery Design
PLATINUM WINNER
Highly polished platinum opal and diamond ring

by Herman Hess, Foresite Jewellery, Toronto
Four highly polished platinum columns, each topped with a

princess cut diamond boldly surround a black opal weighing
3.17 carats. Total diamond weight is 1.21 carats.
PLATINUM
A platinum and diamond ring by George Draganov,

Draganov Fine Jewellery Studio, Toronto
This open-domed platinum ring features a diamond centre

stone weighing 1.45 carats. White and natural pink
diamonds accent thin platinum strands totalling 0.65 carats.
Highly polished, sculpted platinum and diamond ring

by Socrates Reppas, Marquis Jewellers, Toronto
Highly polished platinum is sculpted into an elegant

thunderbolt topped with a 2.01-carat round brilliant cut
diamond. Smaller round brilliant cut diamonds totalling
0.85 carats are set along the side of the platinum shank.

awardsfeature
“I’ve won many awards over the years,

and they always make me and my staff
feel great. I won this award at the age of
58—that means I’ve still got it!“
Socrates Reppas, Marquis Jewellers
COLOURED GEMSTONES WINNER
Ladies’ right hand ring by Rudi Peet,

Rudi Peet Goldsmith, Canmore
This ladies’ right-hand ring features a 2.55 carat natural

cushion-cut blue sapphire and 0.36tcw of brilliant cut
diamonds set in 19-karat white gold.
COLOURED GEMSTONES
Imperial topaz two-level bridge ring by Alfredo Alvarez,

Aurum Design for Burgundy & Ballantine, Toronto
A 3.71-carat imperial topaz is set on a two-level bridge

18-karat white gold ring studded with 1.40 carats of round
brilliant cut diamonds.
Green/yellow beryl marquis pendant by Susan Roberts,

SLR Designs Inc., Calgary
This sleek, elongated pendant provides a futuristic setting

for a 2.87 carat green/yellow beryl marquis plus six treated
blue diamonds totalling 0.36 carats. [CJ]

078-079.CJ_GIAFeature02.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 2:54 PM Page 78
Shades Glory of
After extensive testing, here is a new look at coloured diamond fluorescence.
A DAPTED BY RUSSELL S HOR , GIA S ENIOR I NDUSTRY A NALYST
atural coloured diamonds are so varied and rare that they have
N defied efforts to conduct extensive studies of their properties.
After testing, most of the diamonds were grouped into three
categories, according to shared characteristics in their fluorescence
spectra. The spectra of category 1 diamonds generally appeared as
Thanks to the Aurora Butterfly of Peace, a collection of 240 diamonds bluish fluorescence. This category encompassed most of the pinks,
of various colours, a team of researchers had a unique opportunity the fancy white and several yellow natural-coloured diamonds. By
to conduct such a study when the Butterfly was on exhibit at the contrast, the irradiated diamonds in this category had green to
Smithsonian Institution. Specifically, these researchers examined greenish blue bodycolours.
fluorescence trends of natural fancy-coloured diamonds using a new
portable fluorescence spectrometer. The majority of diamonds within category 2, which included the
yellow-green and brown stones, had green or yellowish green
Their findings, published in a winter 2007 Gems & Gemology article fluorescence. In most cases, these natural, untreated diamonds had
titled, “Fluorescence Spectra of Colored Diamonds Using a Rapid, weak to moderate fluorescence spectra, whereas two greenish yellow
Mobile Spectrometer,” could help gemologists more easily identify irradiated samples showed strong to very strong spectra.
treated-colour diamonds.
The UV fluorescence of the stones in category 3, which contained
Researchers Sally Eaton-Magaña, Jeffrey Post, Peter Heaney, Roy most of the orange and grey-green chameleon diamonds, generally
Walters, Christopher Breeding and James Butler examined 48 diamonds appeared as yellow or yellow-orange. None of the irradiated
in the Butterfly collection, two fancy-coloured diamonds housed by the diamonds fell in this category, but a broader study of treated
Smithsonian (the DeYoung Red and the DeYoung Pink) and 22 samples diamonds would be needed to confirm this as a trend.
from GIA. They also looked at 10 irradiated coloured diamonds.
With a few exceptions, the fluorescence of natural diamonds in the
The team selected diamonds in a range of bodycolours that included three main groups corresponded to their bodycolour. However, the
pink, yellow, yellow-green, orange, brown and blue-grey, as well as irradiated samples in the first two categories showed either
rare specimens such as fancy white, purple and chameleon. For the significantly different bodycolours or different spectral intensities.
most part, they limited their picks to those that showed fluorescence These types of indicators may prove useful in separating natural
to long-wave ultraviolet (UV) radiation. from treated diamonds.
DISTRIBUTION OF STUDY SAMPLES
About GIA:
An independent non-profit organization, the Gemological
Institute of America (GIA) is recognized as the world's
foremost authority in gemology. Established in 1931, GIA
has translated its expert knowledge into the most respected
gemological education available. Early in the 1950’s, GIA
invented the famous Four Cs: of Colour, Cut, Clarity and
Carat Weight. In 1953, the Institute created the International
Diamond Grading System™ which, today, is recognized by
virtually every professional jeweller in the world.
Through research, education, gemological laboratory

KEY BODYCOLOR services, and instrument development, the Institute is
dedicated to ensuring the public trust in gems and jewellery
Most of the natural-coloured diamonds tested could be grouped into three categories
by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics,
based on their fluorescence spectra. Three diamonds with particularly rare colours
were inert, and two had a different type of fluorescence spectrum. science and professionalism.

078-079.CJ_GIAFeature02.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:56 AM Page 79
fluorescencefeature
The coloured diamonds in the Aurora Butterfly of Peace (166.94

carats total weight), assembled by Alan Bronstein and Harry
Rodman of Aurora Gems Inc., New York, demonstrate nearly the full
spectrum of colour and cut styles available in natural coloured
diamonds. The collection is shown here in standard daylight (left)
and long-wave UV radiation (right). Photos by Robert Weldon.
These dramatically different fluorescence colours were produced

by minor differences in the diamonds’ fluorescence spectra.
The similarity of the spectra suggests that this range of
fluorescence colours is caused by the same atomic-level defect.
Photo by Shane Elen.
Fluorescence spectroscopy can help characterize large numbers

of important diamonds, such as these 0.51–2.03 ct stones from the
October 2007 Argyle collection. Courtesy of Argyle Diamond;
photo by Robert Weldon.
While not conclusive, these spectra may also provide clues to the One objective of the research was to evaluate a low-cost, compact
origins of the colour in these diamonds, which would help guide fluorescence spectrometer, which was produced by Ocean Optics.
future studies. For example, the origins of yellow (nitrogen), blue This instrument, the size of a deck of cards, enabled the researchers
(boron) and green (radiation) bodycolour are well known, though to study diamonds that could not be removed from a laboratory. Its
researchers are still trying to pin down what creates the colour in mobility and rapid collection time will make it easier for future
pinks, browns and others. research on important gemstones held in museums and private
collections, and could prove useful in a commercial setting.
The study also demonstrated that fluorescence spectra are more
accurate than fluorescence seen with a UV lamp. This can produce From this research, the authors also found that no two diamonds
different results for different observers, especially given the showed identical fluorescence spectra; they all demonstrated
nonstandard lighting environments in which fluorescence is often light differences in peak intensity or relative intensity between
viewed. The fluorescence spectra measured by a spectrometer can peaks. These subtleties are part of what makes each stone
be quite similar, even if the fluorescence colours appear different unique. Everything about a diamond — from clarity features to
to the eye. In addition, fluorescence spectra provide the atomic-scale defects that cause fluorescence — tells that
far more information than visible fluorescence alone, such as a diamond’s story. Its fluorescence spectrum is one more chapter
semiquantitative indication of intensity and the presence of in that story, one more tool by which individual diamonds may
subordinate peaks. be characterized. [CJ]

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CJ_80-81_Noble.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 10:04 AM Page 45
082-085.CJ_Gold Jewellery Feat02.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:25 AM Page 82
Maya Jewels
18k gold Crimes of Passion
collection, Butterfly and Art Deco perfume
bottles with gemstone accents
A Gold Statement
The Canadian gold jewellery market is standing strong
as customers look to make a better statement.
B Y G LEN A. B ERES
n February of 2008, shares of Blue Nile Inc. went down
I 17% to $44.67 after the American online jeweller gave a

disappointing first-quarter forecast that was more than
10 million dollars short of what analysts expected. “We did
not believe the jewellery market would weaken so
dramatically and we did not believe Nile would be this
cyclical,” said Citi Analyst Mark Mahaney in an interview
with Top Stock’s Kim Petersen.
Dana David
18K gold moon ring
Blue Nile’s results and the downturn of the U.S. jewellery
sector came as a surprise to many who used to think that
luxury retail was immune to economic troubles.

goldfeature
goldfeature
According to a Forbes survey, nearly a quarter of

U.S. luxury consumers say their economic
situations are worse than a year ago. In the second
half of last year, spending on luxury goods like gold
jewellery fell by 20%, said Top Stock, while sales
growth slowed at retailers such as Nordstrom, Saks
and Tiffany.
While the U.S. gold jewellery market has been

battered by economic woes and spiralling gold
prices, the Canadian gold jewellery market has
been less impacted and much more resilient,
according to retailers and manufacturers familiar
with both markets.
At the moment, the Canadian gold jewellery

Hellmuth
market is characterized by strong demands for 18K gold croco cuff and earrings
higher and lower priced products. Subsequently,
the demand for gold jewellery has continued to
thrive in the Canadian bridal and fashion markets,
with strong sales of gold set with diamonds and
non-stone gold pieces.
Industry experts have identified the following key

current trends in the Canadian gold jewellery market:
Strong ongoing demand for white gold

jewellery, particularly in bridal, although
yellow gold jewellery has enjoyed a resurgence
in fashion (non-bridal) jewellery.
Two-tone looks utilizing both yellow

and white gold.
Bigger, bolder pieces that are heavier and

use a premium on unique looks, even in
basics, to allow customers to express their
own individual style.
Fancier designs and finishes that stand

out and make any piece look like it is
a designer piece.
Texture and striking contrasts, such as

pieces utilizing both polished and matte
finishes, particularly in neckchains and
bracelets where the look is easily achieved Anna Ruth Henriques at Viewpoint
through alternating links. 18k gold leaf cuff, olive leaf necklace
and vine ring with moonstone
In the lower-end market, thinner pieces that
minimize the impact from higher gold prices
and maintain affordable price points, as well
as the use of sterling silver in combination
with gold (and more sterling silver used on
its own to replace some gold categories
and keep price points down).

Little Impact on Canadian Demand

In the Canadian market, retailers and manufacturers observe
that there is a polarization in the demand for gold jewellery.
Pieces in both the higher and lower ends are selling well,
while the market for mid-priced products is being squeezed
somewhat, which results in customers in the middle segment
Orlando Orlandi moving upwards and downwards aspirationally.
18K yellow and white gold
fashion collection
According to Gary Bensimon, third-generation jeweller and
Owner of Bijoux Village, an upscale store in Toronto,
Ontario, a number of the retailers’ manufacturing partners
are “feeling the pinch” from a sluggish world jewellery market
and high gold prices. At the request of many retailers, these
manufacturers are cutting down on the weight of their gold
jewellery to keep price points at a constant level. Some retailers
are also replacing gold pieces with sterling silver to bring
price points down. However, the mid- to upper-end market
that Bijoux serves has not really altered its gold jewellery
buying patterns in the face of these types of economic issues,
he notes. “Our market has been fairly insulated from these
economic problems,” Bensimon says.
On the supplier side, Siffari (a CJ company profile, August

2008) provides another example of the ongoing strength of
the higher-end jewellery market. Siffari, a leading jewellery
manufacturer that is also based in Toronto, has seen very
strong sales for its higher-end signature line of gold jewellery
in pendants and ladies’ fashion rings, says Matt Rudin,
National Marketing Manager. “The Canadian industry is
stronger than the U.S. industry right now,” Rudin says.
“Our customers are independent retailers, and in those
stores, people are buying higher-end gold pieces like our
signature line. There is a market for smaller gold pieces, but
the upper end is doing very well, given the economic times
and rising gold prices.”
Michael Good Designs

18K gold matte/polished hoop, 22K gold and
patinated bronze hoop, 22K gold and patinated
bronze hoop, icicle & figure eight earrings

goldfeature
Success in the Canadian Gold Market

Although yellow gold has made a strong comeback after
several years of consumers favouring white metal, white gold
is still very popular, according to retailers. Consumers are
looking for something unique that will make them stand
out. For example, at Bijoux Village, unusual, one-of-a-kind
gold items such as antique-looking pieces are very popular.
Even with basics like hoop earrings, Bensimon claims that
customers are looking for pieces with diamonds, mixed
metals, textures and finishes (although gold with
coloured gemstones is not as strong as gold paired
with diamonds). The store is also selling a lot of
longer chains in both yellow and white gold to
go with hoop earrings. “Our customers are
staying away from the big trends and are
trying to set their own style,” Bensimon adds.
At Nash Jewellers, a prominent chain of stores

based in London, Ontario, customers are also sticking
with white gold and looking for unique, rather than
run-of-the-mill, basic gold items. The Company,
which services the mid- to upper-end market, is seeing a
marked increase in demand for bigger, bolder gold necklaces
with two-tone yellow and gold metal. “Our gold customers
want a little more bang for their buck; they’re looking at gold
necklaces without stones and without sliders – they want a
real stand-alone precious metal piece,” says Colin Nash, a
fourth-generation jeweller and one of the principals of Nash
Jewellers. “While we’ve noticed a little comeback with yellow
gold, white gold is still our best seller.” Zoë B. Ltd.
14K gold necklaces and earrings
with green amethyst, blue topaz,
Although 14-karat gold is a major category for Nash peridot and citrine accents
(the Company sells nothing lower than 14-karat gold), the
retailer has had strong sales in 18-karat gold as well. In fact,
Nash observes that despite the rise in gold prices, sales of
better gold jewellery have actually gone up this year.
Some of the stronger design trends in gold for Nash Jewellers

include pieces with contrast, such as chains with alternating
white gold and yellow gold links, and pieces with alternating
brushed and polished links. OMEGA necklaces have also
been doing well, along with cable designs like those from
Charriol. Nash also expects rose gold jewellery to emerge as
a hot new trend in the near future to complement strong
sales for rose gold watches.
Going forward, Canadian retailers and manufacturers Annie Fensterstock for Fragments
22K yellow and 18K white gold
believe that the gold jewellery market will remain strong, pendant necklace, earrings, ring
particularly as the category is one of the industry’s best sellers with coloured diamonds
as a gift item for the all-important holiday season. [CJ]

086-087.CJ_BrandingFeature.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 3:01 PM Page 86
Your
Brand
in
Action
Brand and Deliver Part II:

Last issue, we discovered what a brand is, along with its essential components.
Now, you can confidently move ahead and build a strategic marketing and merchandising
plan to take your business to the next level.
B Y B RYAN S OROKA

086-087.CJ_BrandingFeature.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 3:01 PM Page 87
brandingfeature
“... we must also consider the importance

of your store’s name, how it plays into your brand,
as well as how your tagline (or creating one)
can further the impact of communications.
”
f you have been following along with this series, you
I
Aside from this tactic, you can also consider the following,
should be well prepared to take the next step, which is which are directly related to building a jewellery retailer’s brand:
actually developing a brand plan, and accordingly, a
schedule for its launch. For those of you who have not been Experience the Difference: It is crucial to have more than the
enlightened by the first installment, here, essentially, is what right product and price. Turning your customers’ visits into an
you need to know… experience goes a long way for building your brand, as well as
helping to ensure repeat and new business.
In Part I, we discussed how a brand is not a tangible asset, but
rather a feeling or emotion that your products and services elicit Relationships Count: Take the time to get to know your
with your customers. In other words: a collection of perceptions customers. Help them with purchase decisions. Getting involved
in the mind of your consumer. We also discussed a widely used with your customers builds a sense of trust and confidence.
(and highly significant) term, “living your brand.” This is a
crucial mentality, which is directed internally towards you and Community Spirit: Courting clients is a great way to strengthen
your staff. Finally, we arrived at the foundation of any effective relationships. Some savvy retailers go as far as conducting
brand: Brand Essence – the distillation of the brand identity and regular outings with their customers. The goal is to enjoy a good
encapsulation of its values. In short, a word (or words) that best meal or event, but at the same time, engage in some business-
defines your brand. related topics.
This series then delved deeper into what makes up a brand, Keeping up with Change: Manufacturers of designer jewellery
which included the Brand Identity. As you may recall, brand and watches are opening stores. Diamond houses are
identity is what impacts consumer choice, so establishing sound manufacturing their own jewellery and offering loose stones to
measures for all of these components is of the utmost Internet companies. The jewellery industry is changing, and you
importance, and something we will engage in now to help you need to keep up with these market shifts and adjust your
set your brand free. However, before we start with that, we must business plans accordingly.
also consider the importance of your store’s name, how it plays
into your brand, as well as how your tagline (or creating one) A Personalized Approach: No two customers want the same
can further the impact of communications. thing, which means they all want to walk out of your store with
a different look. Try to excite your customers with fresh, new
Industry-Specific ideas such as pairing one designer's earrings with another’s ring
While brand building processes are virtually the same for any and yet another's necklace.
industry, each does possess some unique characteristics that
must be addressed. Many jewellery industry members are Final Thoughts
firm believers that the fastest route to differentiation is by As you can see, developing and executing your brand plan is not
offering custom-made jewellery. This may be effective, so complicated. The key factors that will determine your success
though it is certainly not easy. However, by providing your are consistency of your messaging and frequency of
customers with one-of-a-kind pieces, they will come to communications and discipline. The temptation to change your
associate this unique factor with your store, which will, in messaging, logo, tagline, etc. is always there, but remember – you
turn, strengthen your brand. live with it everyday. Your customers, meanwhile, do not. [CJ]

088-089.CJ_StarWatch_re.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 4:14 PM Page 88
Red
Carpet Forecast With the cancellation of the Golden Globes earlier this year
and with the Emmy Awards on the horizon, TV’s biggest
night will surely not disappoint our thirst for celebrity style cues.
Platinum and diamond rose and

cushion cut earrings by Michael Beaudry
tars are already gearing up to dazzle on the Emmy red Retro and Vintage
S carpet, and stylists are pulling together jewellery and

accessories to make each celebrity outfit camera-ready.
Here are a few jewellery and style trends to consider for any
The elegance of Edwardian platinum
openwork and the grace of rose-
cut diamonds bring back
red carpet entrance: memories of Hollywood royalty.
Large disc-style platinum and
diamond pendants can be worn as a
central piece and then layered with other
Screen Goddess longer Riviera style or “diamonds by the yard” chains to
On the wrist, celebrities will continue to stack lengthen wider silhouettes.
chunky platinum and diamond cuffs or bangles,
as well as multi-layer, platinum gem-set
bracelets reminiscent of a 50’s icon. Large
statement pieces will be used to highlight areas The Male Counterpart
of interest, either on a gown, around the face or at Men continue to look for ways to create a little
the wrist. Earrings, of course, will be a major player, but the sizzle without overdoing it, such as a
Platinum cuff bracelet
with white and coloured
drama will be designed to frame the face with platinum and platinum pin on their lapel. There are
diamonds by Neil Lane diamond ear-bobs, studs or major ear-clusters. enough younger celebrities today who love to
wear jewellery, so don’t be surprised by an
open shirt and a pendant or two or a
masculine brushed platinum bracelet.
Technicolour Treatment More conservative male celebrities will
Black and red are in at this year’s Emmys. Rubies set with stick with the tried and true platinum Platinum and
diamond brooch
diamonds in platinum will give the maximum effect on a red and diamond cufflink and shirt lapel pin by Somos
or black gown, as will the contrast of candy-coloured gem stud combination. Not to Creations
combinations and gorgeous coloured diamonds set with mention, those on the fence will
white diamonds. For those looking for maximum contrast, opt for a striking collector’s
black diamonds, onyx and other dark platinum watch.
gemstones will boost the appearance
of platinum, as well as large white
diamonds and pearls for accent.
Platinum and black diamond

cocktail ring by Erica Courtney

088-089.CJ_StarWatch_re.qxd:Layout 1 9/16/08 4:15 PM Page 89
starwatch
1.
GoldStars
Hollywood celebs are also making a gold statement
Scarlett Johansson
A gold necklace was Scarlett Johansson’s glamourous choice for the
premiere of the new Woody Allen film, Vicky Christina Barcelona. The
Jewellery Insider blog observes that the star wore a gold statement
necklace designed by Sonia Boyahian – who is also responsible for
the actress’s engagement ring – with a red Monique Lhuillier gown.
Celebs at the Piaget Launch

Piaget’s recent jewellery and watch collection launch welcomed
a number of stars to New York’s Rockefeller Centre. The
Paris-New York event, which showcased the Company’s new
range, was attended by The Phantom of the Opera star, Emmy
Rossum, who wore a white gold cascade necklace, reports Fox
Business.
2. Kylie Minogue
Kylie Minogue, the ambassador of the jewellery brand, Tous,
has a new collection of rings, earrings, necklaces and
pendants in yellow and white gold, the World Gold
Council reports. The singer’s collection, named Life
in Music, Rock in Pure Form, is inspired by objects
in her musical world such as hearts, sunglasses,
microphones, shooting stars and stilettos. [CJ]
3. 1. Scarlett Johansson
2. Emmy Rossum
3. Kylie Minogue

090-093.CJ_FallTrends.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:20 AM Page 90
Trends in the Making

From the hottest styles to the most coveted categories, find out what your
customers will be looking for this coming fall and holiday season.
B Y D UVALL O’S TEEN
1.
Yellow Fever
The Renaissance of yellow gold has reached a climax with Not to be left out of the sheen, shoe designer Manolo Blahnik
gold popping up in headlines for beauty, fashion, accessories, produced a pair of 24-karat gold shoes for Reem Acra and
home décor and personal electronics. Classic links, cuffs and London-based PPQ, featuring gold tiaras on their fall season
earrings with updated embellishments, all in the warmth of runway. Roberto Coin, inspired by the summer Olympics,
yellow gold, are adorning the runways of couture designers now offers a pair of 24-karat gold leather sneakers to race this
Michael Kors, Nicole Miller, Diane Von Furstenberg, Fendi, gold rush to its ultimate climax. Many jewellery designers are
Venexiana, Nicole Romano and more. catching this contagious condition, with more and more
designers including Amrapali, Arunashi, Gurhan, Coomi,
Maya Jewels, Erhan Gursen and Sevan, working in high-karat
gold for a purer yellow radiance.

trendsfeature
1. Amrapali 18K gold autumn leaves necklace and earrings.

2. J. Han 18K gold wave cuff.
3. Garavelli Aldo 18K gold safari bracelet and ring with tiger’s
eye, ring with onyx.
4. Arunashi 22K solid rustic cuff.
2.
Statement Necklaces and Rings

3.
Statement necklaces made a big splash on the fall ‘08 runways,
with large collars, bibs and striking pendants leading the
way. Even more impressive are stand-out rings like Sevan’s
one-of-a-kind masterpieces and Garavelli’s chain over stone
rings or Joseph Murray’s petal rings – large, eye-catching
beauties that make shaking hands a privilege.
4.
The Wrists Have It

Big, bold looks at the wrist top the trends in gold. Chunky,
large link bracelets by Cynthia Gregg, Erhan Gursen, Eugene
Unger, just to name a few, and modern takes on the iconic
gold cuffs by designers like Deborah Pagani, Julie Baker and
K. Brunini are showing up everywhere. Hammered textures,
inclusion of other materials such as agate, ebony, coloured
gems and more give modern twists to the classic gold cuff,
producing wearable works of art that are elegant and relevant
without being audacious in a time of economic uncertainty.
This celebrity-driven trend hales from the red carpet and also
includes armloads of stackable gold bangles. Charms are
keeping things moving as well, inspired by our multi-faceted,
on-the-go lifestyle and the trend for personalization.

1. Arunashi 18K gold triple marquis earrings.

2. 2. K. Brunini Jewels 18K gold object
organique antler necklace and earrings.
3. Cynthia Gregg Jewels 18K gold square-off
earrings with diamonds.
4. Annie Fensterstocks for Fragments 22K and
18K white gold earrings.
1.
3.
Hoops Anew
What’s old is new as designers keep reinventing the hoop
earring with new versions of this classic jewellery staple
that is always appropriate for any wardrobe or hairstyle.
Textured twig and bark hoops prevail from designers such as
K. Brunini and Erica Molinari, while rectangles are hot for
newcomer Cynthia Gregg and her squared-off hoops.
Candela brings us back to the days of nylon 45s and LPs with
their record-inspired multi-tube hoop and Dana David
features a petal shaped hoop. Forward – facing hoops and
those with interior design are also popular Fern Freeman gives
us movement inside the hoop while Ippolita and Vicente Agor use
4.
eye-pleasing shapes for their forward-facing drop hoops.

trendsfeature
Elyssa Bass Designs 18K gold marquis

pendant, gold butterfly ring with
chocolate diamond, gold and
diamond hoop earrings and bangle.
Animal Kingdom
All aspects of the animal kingdom, from things with wings
to creatures from the wild, are being explored in gold.
Daphna Simon brings us wearable leopards and tigers,
while Maya Jewels’ Jungle Collection explores the lighter
side of monkeys, elephants and striped zebras. Daniel Toledo
evokes the majesty of Africa with his stunning array of
one-of-a-kind animal jewellery and objets d’art. K. Brunini’s
new Spirit Animals Collection lifts the spirits of the Gods
to the heights of divinity. [CJ]

094.CJ_JCK_re.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 1:14 PM Page 94
jckcoverage
JCK Toronto:
Canada’s Leading Jewellery Trade Show
From the complimentary education programs and Design Centre showcasing signature designer
jewellery to the Fashion Show, JCK Toronto 2008 was a show to remember.
1 2
3 4 5
6 7 8
1. IDD: Harsh Shah and Alok Mehta 5. Master Design: Hera Arkarakas
2. Allura Int.: Linda Weckman and Matt MacDonald 6. Caramella: Maria Fita, Candy, Muzamil Hussein, Tania Abate, Linda Santino, Nicolas Saldias
3. Luminox: Del Leutbecher and Patrick Stephenson 7. TD Retail Card Services: Karel Feinsinger
4. Ion-Ray Co. Ltd.: Traci Langill 8. Butterfly Gem: Genevieve Carrisse and Stéphane Laroie

CJ_095_House ad.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:11 AM Page 44
INTRODUCING
canadianjeweller.com
Read current and past issues online.

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Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers’ Guide.
Discuss & debate on our forums.
Source & Share in our retailer-only space.
Get published.
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upcoming events
Every effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.
If you would like dates added, please contact sonia@rivegauchemedia.com.
SEPTEMBER | CANADA 2008 SHENZHEN GEM-O-RAMA 2008 67TH INDIAN HANDICRAFTS

COLLECTIONS BY JCK INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR ANNUAL SHOW AND GIFTS FAIR
SEPTEMBER 24-25 SEPTEMBER 13-17 OCTOBER 11-12 OCTOBER 15-18
The Vancouver Trade Shenzhen Convention Lapidary and Show Building India Expo Centre EXPO XXI,
and Convention Centre Exhibition Center Trona, CA Greater Noida Expressway
Vancouver, BC Shenzhen, China Tel: (760) 372-5356 New Delhi, Delhi
Tel: (203) 840-5618 Tel: (852) 2561 5566 Web: Tel: +(91)-(11)-26135256
Email: inquiry@collectionsbyjck.ca Email: info@newayfairs.com www1.iwvisp.com/tronagemclub
Web: www.collectionsbyjck.ca Web: www.newayfairs.com NOVEMBER | CANADA
JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERS VIGILANCE CANADA
THE CLOTHING SHOW HONG KONG JEWELLERY SHOWCASE JEWELLERS’ BALL
SEPTEMBER 26-28 AND WATCH FAIR OCTOBER 17-20 NOVEMBER 8
Better Living Centre, SEPTEMBER 15-19 Miami Beach Convention Center Four Seasons Hotel,
Exhibition Place Hong Kong Convention Miami Beach, Florida Regency Ballroom
Toronto, ON and Exhibition Centre Tel: (561) 998-0205 Toronto, ON
Web: www.theclothingshow.com Hong Kong, China Email: jisshow@aol.com Tel: 416-368-4840 / 1-800-636-9536
Tel: (852) 2516-2157 / 2585-6178 Web: www.jisshow.com Email: info@jewellersvigilance.ca
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GIA JEWELRY CAREER FAIR Web: www.exhibitions.jewellery JA NEW YORK SPECIAL
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Cascades Convention Center/Casino Web: www.ja-newyork.com & Conference Center
SEPTEMBER | Langley, BC Roswell, GA
INTERNATIONAL Email: fvbeadshow@gmail.com OCTOBER | Web: www.americangemexpo.com
JUNWEX MOSCOW 4TH Web: www.fraservalleybeadshow.ca INTERNATIONAL
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Tel: (781) 2320-8099 Kingston, ON Budau Exhibition Halls NOVEMBER 6-7
Email: junwex@restec.ru Email: emoss@cogeco.ca Idar-Oberstein, Rheinland-Pfalz, Gaiety Theatre
Web: www.restec.ru Web: www.mineralclub.ca Germany Zeehan, Tasmania, Australia
Email: office@intergem.de Email: rbottrill@mrt.tas.gov.au
VICENZA FAIR - CHOICE OCTOBER | USA Web: www.intergem.de Web: www.mineral.org.au/
SEPTEMBER 6-10 BUSINESS TO BUSINESS GEM seminar/seminar08.htm
Vicenza Trade Fair, TRADE SHOW ICA INTERNATIONAL GEM
Via dell’Oreficeria OCTOBER 3-5 SHOW 2008 14TH MALAYSIA JEWELRY
Vicenza, Italy Embassy Suites, Livonia/Novi OCTOBER 13-15 FESTIVAL 2008
Tel: 0444-969-111 Flora, Mississippi Al Bustan Rotana Hotel NOVEMBER 21-24
Web: www.vicenzafiera.it Tel: (601) 879-8832 Dubai, United Arab Emirates Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre
Email: info@glwshows.com Tel: (212) 620-0900 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
JAA AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY Web: www.glwshows.com Email: ica@gemstone.org Tel: +603 2166 2833
FAIR SYDNEY 2008 Web: www.gemstone.org Email: kingfoxasia@gmail.com
SEPTEMBER 7-9 53RD ANNUAL GEM, JEWELRY, Web: www.jewelryshow-hka.com
Sydney Exhibition Centre, FOSSIL & MINERAL SHOW
Darling Harbour OCTOBER 4-5
Sydney, Australia Westside Community Center
Web: www.jewelleryfair.com.au Omaha, NE
Tel: (402) 397-9606
Web: www.nerockgem.org
96 SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008 CJ

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what’son
DECEMBER | USA FLORIDA JEWELRY EXPO BEAD AND JEWELRY SHOW DECEMBER |
NEW ORLEANS CHRISTMAS DECEMBER 12-14 BY AMERICAN GEM EXPO INTERNATIONAL
GEM, JEWELRY & BEAD SHOW Osceola Heritage Park DECEMBER 13-14 JMA HONG KONG 2008
DECEMBER 5-7 Kissimmee, FL Sheraton Hotel, Jefferson DECEMBER 4-7
Pontchartrain Center Tel: 770-410-9771 Convention Center Complex Hong Kong Convention
New Orleans, LA Email: info@gtshows.com Birmingham, AL & Exhibition Centre
Tel: 504-455-6101 Web: www.gtshows.com Web: www.americangemexpo.com Hong Kong, China
Web: www.aksshow.com Tel: (852) 2766 3002
AMERICAN GEM EXPO INTERNATIONAL GEM Fax: (852) 2362 3647
GREENSBORO JEWELRY EXPO DECEMBER 13-14 & JEWELRY SHOW Email: enquiry@jewelry.org.hk
DECEMBER 6-8 War Memorial Auditorium DECEMBER 19-21 Web: www.jewelryshows.org
Greensboro Coliseum Complex Fort Lauderdale, FL Dulles Expo & Conference Center
Greensboro, NC Web: www.americangemexpo.com Chantilly, VA
Tel: 770-410-9771 Tel: (301) 294-1640
Email: info@gtshows.com Fax: (301) 294-0034
Web: www.gtshows.com Web: www.intergem.net

098-103.CJ.MrkplcClassy.Show:MarketplaceNov 9/15/08 4:56 PM Page 98
showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
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Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.
Vancouver, B.C.
1-800-663-1458
Online inventory
www.jwdiamonds.ca
All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

showcase
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
CJ 12 5
OVER
IN THE YEARS
BUSIN ESS
RETAIL ING OF
JEWEL LERY
SEPTEM
Holiday T
BER • O
CTOBE R 2008
Revolution.
canadia
ST YL ES
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magazi weller YO U NE RIE S
ne ED TO ST
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Orig
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SIM ON DE SIG NE
ein Desig GH AN IMI R
ERS ARE… n:
THE WINN AN SP EA
KS
Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com

It’s all about you.
3B8
ON, M5W
TORONTO
SUITE 1106,
T WEST
Going Th
at Ex
Read current and past issues online.
R STREE
tra
Mile
BLOO
000 | 60
Listen to articles and podcasts.

MAIL 40678
NS
MINDHAM
PUBLICATIO
FINE JEW
ELLERY’S
MYLES
MINDHAM
PLUS:
DIA MO ND
Sh
A NE W LO ades of Glor
OK AT CO
FL UO RE
LO UR ED
y Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers’ Guide.
ALL TH SC EN CE
Discuss & debate on our forums.

E LATE
ST MARK
Calling
ET NEWS,
TRENDS
& EVENTS
Source & Share in our retailer-only space.

Get published.
all Canadian Jewellery Retailers...
You’ve probably noticed a change in Canadian
Jeweller covers the past few issues, as they’ve
featured some of our industries top retailers. We’re
always looking for new businesses to shine a spotlight
on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you. Over 125 years
in the business of
retailing jewellery
To have your store grace the cover of an upcoming

CJ, and to expose your business to a whole new
audience, make sure to send an email request to
bryan@rivegauchemedia.com

marketplace
Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are permitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3 TIMES
– $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is available as a
spot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
ORDER READY
IN 24 HOURS www.cigem.ca
•
• BRONZE • PALADIUM Accredited Gemmologist (C.I.G.)
Diamond Expert (C.I.G.)
• STERLING • PLATINUM SINCE 1986 Fine Jewellery Appraiser (C.I.G.)
• GOLD • STAINLESS STEEL Gem Study Tours
• ALLOYS FOR GOLD Books and Instruments
•
CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384
Phone: 514-845-5384 • Fax: 514-845-6877 P.O. Box 57010
E-mail: alloyco@alloyco.com • Web site: www.alloyco.com Vancouver, B.C. V5K 5G6
55 Mont-Royal W., suite 600, Montréal, Québec, Canada, H2T 2S6 604-530-8569
1-800-294-2211
BHALLA WATCH HOUSE 1971

Experienced watchmakers.
Fast, reliable service @ FAIR PRICES!
Trust our name for your complete watch repairs.
Spotless, modern workshop with the latest tools
& equipment for timing & cleaning.
Experience The Difference:
9 Gaspe Rd.L6S 0A4
Tel:905-463-0251 • Fax: 905-463-1383
Gordi Cell: 647-283-2002 • g_bhalla@hotmail.com

marketplace
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

PRECIOUS METALS DEALER
ASSAYING • REFINING •
.999 GOLD DEPOT
• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN
• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM
IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE
LET US EARN YOUR TRUST AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY
Web: www.xau.ca Call our Hotline for Prices - 416-366-GOLD (4653)
Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111
21 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:
Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 Fax: 416-366-3499
All Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined
info@xau.ca 27 Queen St. East #901, Toronto ON
WORLD’S LARGEST H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd

JEWELLERY AND WATCH Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials
REPAIR FRANCHISE IS
PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a
EXPANDING IN A MALL deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers
NEAR YOU! We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.
Make money for yourself A long standing tradition of service since 1929.
and take control If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!
• Own Your Own Store
Tel.: (800) 359-0407 • Regional Malls, High Traffic PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117
Email: franchise@fastfix.com • Low Inventory Costs
• 23 Year Proven Record FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139
Web: www.fastfix.com • No Exp. Nec. Full Training ☞ sales@perrin.on.ca
BEST QUALITY & BIGGEST SELECTION OF SILVER JEWELLERY GUARANTEED.

LIFE TIME WARRANTY, AND VERY LARGE LINE OF 10K JEWELLERY.
+ 14K BODY JEWELLERY, EARINGS, BANDS AND CHAINS.
WATCH FOR OUR NEW GOLD AND SILVER CATALOGS.
IF WE D O N’ T HA V E IT. Y OU D O N ’T WA N T IT.
SERVICE THAT YOU CAN TRUST. FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED
JOHN JR. ARABATLIAN PRESIDENT

CELL: 604-250-2158 TEL: 604-689-4190 FAX: 604-689-4139
TOLL-FREE: 1-8777-80-JOHNS TOLL-FREE FAX: 1-888-564-6788
ADDRESS: 900-736 Granville Street Vancouver, B.C. V6Z 1G3
LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
• Cutters of Rough Diamonds

• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes
• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds
21 Dundas Square, Suite 805

Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

marketplace
SS, 10K, 14K,

18K, 19K, 22K,
Specializing in
PLATINUM AND
19 K ULTRA WHITE
GOLD CASTING
215 Victoria St., Suite B3
Toronto, ON M5B 1T9
*CATALOGUE AVAILABLE* Tel: (416) 366-4046
We are no longer just a casting house: we will take your order
Fax: (416) 366-5162
from idea to finished product, including diamonds and other
Toll Free: 1-877-365-5552
stones. (Call our toll-free number or fax us for free estimates)
Email: readymounts@on.aibn.com
In stock settings and mounts. www.readymounts.com
MOISSANITE CANADA
Reflect the brilliance of your life
~
With more brilliance and luster than any popular
gemstone including diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald
no other gemstone or jewel compares to Moissanite.
~
Tel: 416-366-7295 Fax: 416-366-3966
215 Victoria St, Suite 201 Toronto ON M5B 2T9
Northam A Cut Above the Rest

“30 YEARS INTERNATIONAL EXPERIENCE”
STEWARTS HOROLOGY
QUALITY service and attention to detail.
Diamond Inc. • 6 Highly Qualified Technicians
YOUR #1 SOURCE
OF SUPPLY
• Large Inventory of Parts and Access to all
Importers & Wholesale suppliers specializing in Fine Make & Ideal Cuts. Loose
the Major Supply Houses
Polished Diamonds in all shapes & sizes from .01CT to 5.00 CTS,
REPAIRS to fine Watches, Quartz and
Mechanical, Restoration of Pocket Watches.
Fancy colours & Canadian Diamonds
Canadamark – Brand: Arctic Fox Diamond
27 Queen Street East, Suite 1004, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 2M6 1515 PORTAGE AVENUE, WINNIPEG, MANITOBA, CANADA R3G 0W7
Tel: (416) 861-1414 Fax: (416) 861-1581 • 1-800-941-GEMS Te l: (204 ) 7 89-962 0
email: sales@northamdiamonds.com www.northamdiamonds.com E m a i l : s t e w b n z1 @m t s .n e t

marketplace
IN JEWELLERY REPAIR
YOUR
YOUR
1
NAME E N V E L O P E
The Diamonds You Need.
DESIGN L O W E S T
DESIGN PRICES
TO
T O YOUR
YO U R In Stock. Overnight.
NO
N O IIN
N
OW
O WN
WISHES
W ISHES D A
ALL
PRINTING
P RINTING 1 - 800 661- 4410
STEPS F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9 We carry finely cut diamonds ranging
NCLUDED s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m
IINCLUDED from .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of
shapes including round brilliant,
princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart,
pear, marquise and oval.
Revolution.
Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com
Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.
Selection, Service and Value

It’s all about you. a family tradition since 1955
Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts. www.wmolldiamonds.com
Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers Guide. Discuss & debate Phone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738
on our Forums. Source & Share in our retailer-only space.
21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Get published.
classified
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Michele Aubie Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6119 or frontdesk@rivegauchemedia.com.
VERRAGIO
If you are looking for a steady career in
AGENTS REPS WANTED
Experienced Jeweller jewellery industry and sincere business

commitment, then we are the right company for
Jeweller over 20 years of Sales Representative Wanted
SERVICES
your advancement. We are looking for

experience. Custom work, serious travellers sales reps for all provinces of Verragio, manufacturer of platinum,
repairs, polishing and Canada. No past experience does not disqualify gold and palladium engagement
AGENTS REPS WANTED
specializing in diamond setting. you for the position. Please fax your resume or
email Dhiren at dhiren@geengee.com
rings and wedding bands, is seeking
Call Vince at 416-748-1823. (salary and commission negotiable). a sales representative for Eastern
and Western Canadian territories.
Must have solid relationships with
For Sale
Selling well established jewelry retail and repair
WE BUY BROKEN/CHIPPED key independent accounts and
DIAMONDS demonstrated success in new
FOR SALE
FOR SALE
business in SW Ontario for over 50 years. Immediate Payment /Established 1988 account acquisition. Luxury branded
Includes inventory, showcases, tools.
J.P.Smith 21 Dundas Square Suite 1101 product experience preferred.
Building includes commercial space
Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 Tel: 888 JPS Please email resumes to
and rental units. Owner retiring.
Serious inquiries only. Nadia at 905-425-0840.
9747 email: jpsmithusa@gmail.com Lindsay@verragio.com.

104.CJ_FaxBack.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:54 AM Page 104

PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
104
TITLE_TITLE SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, TITLE_TITLE
ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
1. See 2. Use this quick 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
BY FAX product reference list number(s) 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
you want below to find out on the attached or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
OR MAIL info on its free info number free info card as you like
(it’s also on the ad)
on card on card
CONNECT WITH... page write # CONNECT WITH... page write #
Siffari - Signature Collection 2 101 Rio Tinto Diamonds 20 120

Wenger - Swiss 3 102 Diamonds Direct - Rare and Precious Gems 21 121
Rio Tinto Diamonds 4-5 103 Rotary - Swiss Watch 23 122
HRA Diamonds - Canadian Rocks 6-7 104 Pandora 25 123
Diamonds Direct - Rare and Precious Gems 8 105 Nova Diamonds Inc. 28 124
GS Laboratories 9 106 BaselWorld - Watch and Jewellery Show 29 125
Gee ’N Gee Importers 11 107 Open Blue Networks 31 126
Byrex Gems Inc. 13 108 Castaldo VLT Canada 33 127
TD Merchant Services 15 109 Importex 33 128
Siffari - Quartz Collection 16 110 G.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America) 35 129
MDL Diamonds - Canadian Eskimo Diamonds 16 111 Sanghavi Diamonds 41 130
GS Laboratories - Firetrace 16 112 MCD Pearls 43 131
Jewellers Mutual 17 113 Rousseau Canada Inc. 43 132
Mirage - Eternity Band 18 114 JVC Jewellers’ Ball 51 133
Diamonds Direct - Pink Diamonds 18 115 Rebecca Donna Oro 54-55 134
Gee ’N Gee Importers - Men’s Jewellery Line 18 116 Noble Gift Packaging 80-81 135
MDL Diamonds 19 117 Jewels by Koby 97 136
Pandora - Mix and Match 20 118 Regal Diamonds 106-107 137
Regal - Hallmark of Quality 20 119 Mirage Creations 108 138
FREE Info Card & Subscription

To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely
Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send
STEP 1 STEP 2 To qualify, check ovals: Selling area of your store
under 1,000 sq. ft. 1,001 to 3,000 sq. ft.
3,001 to 5,000 sq. ft. over 5,000 sq. ft.
Signature: Date: Which category best describes your
business classification?
Your Name: Title: Education Approximate annual sales volume
Retailer under $500,000
Manufacturer $500,000 to $1 million
Company Name:
Address: Wholesaler $1 million to $5 million
Importer $5 million to $10 million
City: Province: Designer $10 million to $20 million
Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) over $20 million
Postal Code: Other __________________________________
Categories you personally manage
Retailer Designer
Phone: ( ) Fax: ( )
Number of employees at your location
Email Address (optional): 1-3 4- 8 9-12 13+ Gemologist Supplier
Manufacturer
Number of locations ____________________ Other __________________________
STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR Example
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE
DETAILED INFORMATION ON
101
USE QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE ON TOP OF PAGE
STEP 4
FAX NOW TO: 1-888-849-0155 or (416) 703-6392 | OR MAIL CARD TODAY TO: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106 Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

105.CJ_LastWord.qxd:Layout 1 9/15/08 11:03 AM Page 105
lastword
L AO T Z U ONCE WROTE:
“Nothing is softer or more flexible than
Water, yet nothing can resist”it.

A pragmatic philosophy that retailers can use in their everyday business practices
and a fitting comment on this “flexible” mesh-backed 345.87 cabochon-cut labradorite in 18-karat white gold.
Courtesy of Myles Mindham Fine Jewellery.

CJ_106-107_RevisRegal DPS.qxd:Layout 1 9/12/08 2:22 PM Page 44
R EGAL I MPORTS
CJ_106-107_RevisRegal DPS.qxd:Layout 1 9/12/08 2:22 PM Page 45
DIAMOND MARGINS ARE ATTAINED BY KNOWLEDGE AND CREATIVITY

NOT BY CONFORMITY AND IMITATION
The magic is in you
REGAL IMPORTS EMPOWERING RETAILERS TO RISE ABOVE THE COMPETITION
www.regalimports.ltd.com
1.800.863.2621 T. 604.263.2621 F. 604.263.4008
QIPUP XXXGPUPHSBGJDBTUVEJPDPN
CJ_108_Mirage.qxd:Layout 1
9/16/08
1:59 PM
Page 44

Canadian Jeweller Magazine September October 2008

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Sept 08 Cover.qxd:CJSept05_Cover.

qxd 9/15/08 1:32 PM Page 2

THE WINNERS ARE…

Going That Extra

ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 104.

CANADA HAS ONE SOURCE FOR DIAMONDS

Come early to see the huge selections.

CANADIAN JEWELLERY SHOW SPECIALS

CANADIAN ROUND DIAMONDS

CANADIAN FANCY DIAMONDS

ESTABLISHED 1879 SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008 • VOL . 129, NO . 5

Bryan Soroka Director, Editorial & Communications | bryan@rivegauchemedia.com

Lisa de Nikolits Creative Director | art@rivegauchemedia.com

Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Glen A. Beres, Robin Gambhir, Scott Jordan,

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING SALES

Melissa Badr CIRCULATION MANAGER

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

8 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

66 Going that Extra Mile

86 Brand and Deliver Part II: Your Brand in Action

90 Trends in the Making

94 JCK Toronto: Canada’s Leading Jewellery Trade Show

10 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

34 Stock Index 88 Star Watch

12 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 104.

14 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

We help you and your payment processing run stress-free.

Call 1-800-363-1163, visit a branch

Canadian Eskimo Arctic Ice Diamonds

16 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

Mirage Cut Eternity Band

18 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

PANDORA Mix and Match

The Hallmark of Quality Canadian Diamond

Rio Tinto Diamonds

20 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

For details, write #113 on Free Info Page, page104.

For details, write #117 on Free Info Page, page 104.

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Brokers of Rare Jewels

 1DWXUDO )DQF\ &RORUHG 'LDPRQGV«PDNH PDUJLQV DJDLQ

Find out who is

22 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

Supermodel Cindy Crawford made a

24 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

news trends events

A. Jaffe Creates Fashion Jewellery Ernst Benz Introduces Beijing 2008

26 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008 CJ 27

Competition grows fierce in the gold jewellery market.

Italian Jewellery Exports Looking Up

key export markets due to their industries’

28 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

30 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

32 CJ SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2008

PranaGioia Relaunches Web Boutique

ONE STOP SHOPPING

Find out how you can make high-volume production

For details, write #125 on Free Info Page, page 104.

For details, write #126 on Free Info Page, page 104.

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1DWXUDO )DQF\ &RORUHG 'LDPRQGV«PDNH PDUJLQV DJDLQ