Chemistry Honors Project Report

Student Name: Isabella Gonzalez

Heritage High School, 2015
Part I: Annotated Bibliography
For this section, state your topic or problem under investigation. Then, list five or more
sources in alphabetical order and MLA format. Underneath each source, write a paragraph
summarizing (in your own words) the value in using this source.
Problem: How does hair dye work to change the color of your hair? I will be investigating the
chemicals that are put into different kinds of hair dyes and the chemistry behind them changing
your hair color and any effects they cause.
Source: "The Chemistry of Hair Color." The Chemistry of Hair Color. N.p., n.d. Web. 18
Feb. 2015.
Summary: This site gave information about four different types of hair colors including
temporary hair color, semi-permanent / demi-permanent hair color, and permanent hair color. It
also explained the process of bleaching and how it works. I liked how this sight gave information
about a variety of dyes and did not limit its focus. I learned that temporary hair color has the
most colors available however it only lasts for a short time. Semi-permanent and demipermanent colors work by penetrating in the cuticle layer of the scalp. The main dyes used in
these colors are nitrophenylenediamine, nitro amino phenols and aminoanthraquinones. Their is a
limited color scheme but these dyes are great for covering grey hairs. If a customer wants to go
lighter than they would have to bleach their hair. Bleaching your hair works with the
combination of chemicals including ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and ammonium persulfate.
Finally the most common hair coloring is the use of permanent dyes. This color lasts until new
hair grows. The dyes used are called dye precursors in which are small molecules that are
monomers that are able to penetrate into the cortex of the hair.
Source: "HAIR COLOURING." HAIR COLOURING. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Feb. 2015.
Summary: This sight is a valuable source because it went into great detail of the hair coloring
process. Another reason of why i found value in this sight was because it provided diagrams and
pictures of each coloring process. I feel that the pictures given add to the validity of the sight. I
learned that in permanent coloring, oxygen is what reacts with the color precursors in your hair
in order for a change to undergo. Precursors I have learned are formed naturally through
melanocytes in your hair. As the other temporary and semi-permanent colors do not rely of
oxidation of the precursors and more the cuticle of the hair is concerned.

Source: "Hair Dyes and Cancer Risk." National Cancer Institute. N.p., n.d. Web. 16 Feb.
2015
Summary: This is a valuable source because it talks about the chemicals that make up hair dyes
and the possible risks these chemicals posses. What i like about this source is it established its
credibility with many facts and studies that have been done. For example a case study was done
with people with acute leukemia. The study examined the use of hair dyes of 769 patients with
acute leukemia and 623 people without it within the United States and Canada. The case study
concluded that the risks of acute leukemia was significantly higher among the users of both
permanent and non permanent dyes. This sight also gave many goods facts such as their are over
5,000 cancer causing chemicals in animals. This has caused manufacturers to change the
ingredients in the late 1970s. These facts and points presented in this source were intriguing and
have aided in my research.
.
Source: "Hair Foundation Article - Hair Color: Biology, Mythology and Chemistry."Hair
Foundation Article - Hair Color: Biology, Mythology and Chemistry. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Feb.
2015.
Summary: This article is a useful source because it explains in great detail the history of hair,
chemicals used in dye and how they work to change your hair coloring. From reading the article
I gained knowledge about the different chemicals used in each type of dye. For example when
bleaching your hair hydrogen peroxide is used. Also in order for your hair to accept the new dye
some have to bleach their hair with the chemicals of ammonia, and monoethanolamine. It also
gave information about the actual hair shaft and how it is made up of keratin and other oils. I
learned in order for your hair color to be changed the dye has to strip those oils and keratin from
the cortex of your scalp. All in all this website had great information about hair and how the

chemicals work to change your hair color when dying it. Overall this sight made a valid
connection between hair dyes and the chemistry behind it which is what drew me in.
Source: Helmenstine, Ph.D. Anne Marie. "Hair Color Chemistry - How Haircoloring
Works." N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Feb. 2015.
Summary: This article gave insight into what hair is made of and what molecules react with in
the hair dyes that changes the color of our hair. I learned that hair is simply made of keratin
which is also found in your nails and skin. The color of your hair depends on two proteins:
Eumelanin which is for darker hair and pheomelanin which is responsible for lighter blondes and
gingers. This article explained the chemicals used in semi-permanent dyes and permanent and
how they work. In semi-permanent dyes they work in which they deposit acidic hair dye on the
outside of the hair shaft these products use no ammonia however some peroxide. Permanent hair
dyes open the outside hair shafts and its cuticle. It reacts with the cortex or inside of hair in
which it either deposits or removes color. Ammonia is the chemical used to open the hair shaft in
order to deposit color and peroxide breaks chemical bonds and is what produces the odor of hair
color. This sight was great at explaining what each of the chemicals job is when dying your hair
which is why i thought of it as a valuable source.

Part II: Interview

Here, list your scientist or community member interviewed. List the questions asked and their
provided answers. You must include at least five questions and answers. Beneath the questions
and answers, write your interview as a source in MLA format.
Expert Name: Tonianne Scott & Pamela Hancock
Question: Are their any harmful chemicals in the hair dyes that can affect the health of the
customer or hair dresser?
Answer:
It depends on the person because everyone's body chemistry is different. I myself am allergic to
certain things ,very sensitive on my skin. But it doesn't injure me or inhibit me from doing my
job. - Pamela Hancock
Our line we used called Wella has a more gentle version of dye for our customers who have
more sensitive scalps. It is the hydrogen peroxide in the developer that activates the color.
-Tonianne Scott
Question: What type of dye works the best to change the color of someone's hair?
Answer:
A permanent dye because it has a higher percentage of developer which is the hydrogen
peroxide. It goes into your hair follicle instead of coating it in which a semi or demi permanent
dye would. -Tonianne Scott

 Permanent dyes penetrate the cuticle more. A demi color would fade over time whereas this
will really stay in the hair and will have to be grown out. - Pamela Hancock
Question: Is there a difference in the amount of chemicals used in semi-permanent and
permanent dyes?
Answer:
Yes. Its only in the developer so its the percentage of the hydrogen peroxide or volume. So it
ranges by percent such as 6% which is the percent of hydrogen peroxide. - Tonianne
There is a different amount of hydrogen peroxide in each of the dyes. However there's a
difference between a semi and a permanent color of the actual tube but we don't know the actual
chemical compositions. Essentially the hydrogen peroxide is what is activating the color to
work. - Pamela Hancock
Question: Could you step by step describe the dying process for me?
Answer:
Everyone is different. Some people want to cover grey hair and some want to go darker or
lighter. But for the basics you mix the developer and color tube and you apply it from scalp to
ends. But there is different formulas for what the customer wants. - Tonianne Scott
Question: Do the chemicals in your hair dye affect the health of your hair overall? Does it differ
between some peoples hair.
Answer:
The professional quality we use does not have extreme damage to as if you were to buy an over
the counter box color because of the chemical salts used in them. For the most part its more
conditioning and better for the hair
For me it actually makes my hair thicker since I dye it darker and plumps my hair cuticle up and
makes it look fuller. It seals the hair cuticle or busts it open if you are going lighter. - Pamela
Hancock
In order to get your hair lighter bleach has to be used in which busts open the cuticle. The
lighter you go the more damage.- Tonianne Scott
Source in MLA format:
Tonianne Scott, Pamela Hancock. Personal Interview. 7 March 2015.
Part III: Forming a Hypothesis and Experiment Proposal
In this section, complete the template below, indicating your problem, hypothesis
and experimental design or description of your model.
Title: Hair cuticle model: Dyed hair vs. Natural Hair
Introduction: When dying one's hair you are essentially changing the chemistry of hair
and manipulating it to change the color of your hair cuticle which overall changes the
appearance of your hair. They are many types of dyes that can be used to dye hair with
some posing more direct threats to the health of your hair compared to others. In this
experiment you will see exactly how the dye works to change the chemistry of your hair
cuticle when it has been dyed versus a natural hair cuticle by building a hair cuticle

itself! Through this experiment you will gain insight to the effects the dye has on your
hair and how the dye lays on the cuticle with the use of different types of dyes.
Problem: How does hair dye work to change the color of your hair and does it threaten
the health of your hair or yourself?
Hypothesis: Hair dyes use a chemical called hydrogen peroxide that goes into the hair
cuticle to allow it to take in the new color. When wanting to go lighter with your color it is
necessary to bleach your hair which can be damaging by causing split ends. The
hydrogen peroxide in semi-dyes, demi-dyes and permanent dyes is what is essentially
activating the color. If you want your dye to last long the best dye to use would be a
permanent dye. Regarding the health of the customer it depends on the sensitivity of
their scalp but usually there has been few cases of these dyes compromising one's
health. It is predicted that there will be an increase in split ends in ones hair and the
cuticle being sealed with the hair dye being put on it.
Materials:
-A pack of multicolored molding clay
- A pack of neutral colored molding clay (Brown, Black, White)
-Plastic knife for marking and cutting the clay
Procedure:
1. First find a clean working space to put the clay on
2. You will be making 5 different hair cuticles. A natural cuticle, Semi-Permanent,
Permanent, Bleached, and Temporary dyed cuticle.
3. Use the brown clay and divide it into 4 pieces and use one piece of the white clay
for the bleached hair cuticle.
4. Using your hands mold the five pieces of clay into a cylinder shape three inches
tall and two inches thick. This will be representing the cortex of the hair cuticle.
5. Then you will need to take a little pieces of a lighter shade of brown clay or a
grey shade to make the actual cuticle that overlays on the cortex. Each of the 5
cortexs you made will have 10 pieces of a cuticle on them 5 on each side
overlapping each other.
6. To make the cuticle take a small piece of grey or lighter brown clay and mold it
into a small oval shape around inch long and inch thick.
7. The first cuticle you will be assembling is the natural in which you simply will
overlap five of the small oval pieces on top of each other on each SIDE of a
brown clay cortex. This is a natural hair cuticle that has not been harmed by
dyes.
8. Next you will take another brown cortex created and create the temporary dyed
cuticle. For this you will need a color clay preferably green and roll it into 10 little
balls that will be small enough to fit between the oval cuticles. You will overlap
the cuticles as normal but place the green balls starting with one on top and then
in between each flap of the cuticles. This shows how the temporary dye sits on
the hair cuticle.

9. The next cuticle you will be making is a Semi-permanent dyed cuticle. You will
follow the same steps as making a natural cuticle but this time you will take black
clay and make small little black ovals but only about of the size of the cuticle
flaps that are on the cortex. You will take 7 pieces of the oval shaped black clay
with two going on one side of the corex, 3 on the other, and three in the middle.
You will smush the black clay on the end of a grey or light brown cuticle and
smush the three pieces separated from each other in the center of the cortex.
This represents how color is mostly on the cuticle however some does go into the
cortex in Semi-permanent dyes.
10. Next for the permanent dye you will make the same structure as the natural hair
dye but instead of letting the cuticle ovals just overlap each other bend them so
they are barely touching but still in the overlapping form. Then time take a
different color such as yellow and make the little oval shapes like the black ones.
Place these yellow ovals on the cortex preferably 5 or 6 of them. This shows how
in permanent dye it lifts the cuticle in order for it to enter to cortex and that is
where all of the dye stays concentrated in.
11. The final cuticle you will be making is the bleached one. This will be represented
by the white cortex due to when you bleach your hair its lightening every part of
the cuticle including the cortex. The next step to making this cuticle is doing the
same lifting the cuticle flaps so they barely touch as the permanent dye
cuticle.This is because when getting your hair bleached you are lifting the color
from your cuticle which therefore lifts the cuticle on the cortex .Finally take your
plastic knife or carving knife and put some scratch marks on the cuticle. This
shows how when bleaching your hair it damages it causing more split ends
12. When making these cuticles you can use this diagram as a reference
disregarding the henna dye! Just leave clay overnight when finished and it should

harden overnight!

Works Cited
In this section, create a complete alphabetical list of the sources used in parts I and II
and add any sources that have been added throughout parts III.
"The Chemistry of Hair Color." The Chemistry of Hair Color. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Feb. 2015.
http://thebeautybrains.com/2014/08/04/the-chemistry-of-hair-color/
"HAIR COLOURING." HAIR COLOURING. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Feb. 2015.
http://www.hair-science.com/_int/_en/topic/topic_sousrub.aspx?tc=ROOT-HAIRSCIENCE%5EINFINITE-TRANSFORMATIONS%5ECOLOR-FORE&cur=COLORFORE
"Hair Dyes and Cancer Risk." National Cancer Institute. N.p., n.d. Web. 16 Feb. 2015
http://www.cancer.org/cancer/cancercauses/othercarcinogens/intheworkplace/hair-dyes
"Hair Foundation Article - Hair Color: Biology, Mythology and Chemistry."Hair
Foundation Article - Hair Color: Biology, Mythology and Chemistry. N.p., n.d. Web. 18 Feb.
2015. http://hairfoundation.org/hair-library/article-hair-color.htm
Helmenstine, Ph.D. Anne Marie. "Hair Color Chemistry - How Haircoloring Works." N.p.,
n.d. Web. 18 Feb. 2015. http://chemistry.about.com/cs/howthingswork/a/aa101203a.htm
Tonianne Scott, Pamela Hancock. Personal Interview. 7 March 2015.