0 a HOT WATER BLUEING ACONG! IARY OF THIS METH ADAPTED FROM * PRO Ee” 1 4, PART 4 Materiale you will need a) Stainless eteel biueing tank: 1200long, 150 wide and 180 deep, ¥) Commercial busing remover (Casey"s Blue and rust remover) 6) Small box of f+-Soclum phosphate, 4) Distilled water, 15 ro 20 ters 2) Commercial Hueing solution (Grownell’s Dicropan ih) 4) Rubber gloves and protective eye ware 2) Sheet abrasives: 200, 220-A, 400-A, 600-A h) Steel wool, 00 and 0000 grade (degreased) Removing th ‘The old busing must be removed before applying the naw Commercial remover “Casey's Blue and Rust Remover” Make your own remover: 50% commercial grade Hydrochloric or muriatic acid andBO% diotilled water: Method: 1) Disaosemble the gum and set aside all non ferrous parte as they will be damaged by the solutions you wil be using, 2) Wipe off excess oll and grease, Use Methylated spirits and a good detergent to remove oll and grease, then rinse the parte in water. 3) Wearing protective rubber gloves and goggles, saturate a cotton wad of about ‘Oem equare with the commercial remover or the acid solution ard apply to the ola biueing using long firm otrokes, Treat one area, then let the fuid "work" for a few minutes before retuming to that area for additional rubbing. Use cotton ear buds to reach emall hidden out of the way places, 2a2) 4) (2) Jinminates the worn blueing will melt away leaving a greyich fm. nepect the metal carefully, removing any old rust with fine stcel woel, Then rinse off the parts in warm tap water and dry them thoroughly and quickly. New rust: can form fast. The stripping process hae now also “etched” the metal, providing the proper bonding surface for the new blucing to “take”. Metal polishing: 1) Notel Blueing does not cover or hide anything. If you are experienced with power equipment, a buffing wheel makes metal poliching easy. ifyou are not experienced, do the work by hand, Most re-blueing Jobe require a minimum of polishing unless the gun wae badly abused and marred. 2) You are going to need an assortment of abrasive clathe or paper — 200, 820-A, 400A, 600-A, silicone carbide or aluminum onide generally provide the “spread” required 3) Gut the abrasives into stripe about 40 mim wide by the depth of the sheet. Mount your action or barrel in a padded vice and don't use too truch pressure. 4) Depending on metal condition, start with the coarsest: abrasive you will use generally 200, but if the steel was originally well plished, 320-A. Move the strip ina “shoe shine” motion, back & forth and around the metal. Then, using the same strip, move it length wice until you have polished out any croee-marke made by your first passes. Repeat thio procedure using progressively finer strips until the metal is ehiny bright. and chrome-ike In appearance. 5) Check che work frequently in good light, removing any cross-marke, ecratches or dull spots. The metal must be uniformly smooth and shiny: any bieriches overlooked will stand out after the Hueing is applied Degreasing All parts should be “clean” before starting blueing, The faintest: emudge of of or even a Fingerprint wil leave a light splotch that no amount of biveing will cover. Do not use petrol or commercial solvents as they are hazardous and some commercial soWvents leave a residue which can mess up a Piucing job Best to use Tr-Sodium Phosphate (TSF) for de-gressing the gun parte. This should be avaliable at hardware stores or chemical merchants. 1) Use one cup of TSP with about 15 liters of tap water in your blueing tak 2) Make a number of "2" shaped handles with lege about 150mm long out of some ‘sturdy wire, to be used for handling parts. 3.5) “(3) 2) Make 2°U' shaped brackets of heavy wire with flanges to hook over the sides of your tank, These are to support parzs-to be boed. The brackets shouldbe of uch a size that when fitted Zo the tank they wll support the parts about 25mm above the bottom of the tak 4) Position the u-brackets in che tank and place the tank on 2 2 or 3 burner camp stove ae a heat source. Pour insufficient tap water to cover the parts that are to be de-greased. (low suicient extra water to allow for evaporation) 5) Ada the cup of TSF" to the tank water ao 6) Flee up the bumer 7 When the solution begins to bol postion the parte on the brackets in the tsrk using the Z-harales you have made, for barrel and other large parts. Smaller parts can be placed in « emalich strainer and huna from wire ia che olution, or separately hung from wire 2) Make oure there ie ample room at al sides of the pars forthe liquid to circulate 9) Leb the parts toll for ful 8 minute 10} Sipen clean gloves (from now on your bare hands must not touch the metal) and lit the parts one a tte from the tank, again wing your Z-harcies for the arae parts and lting the emaller parce out hy their hanging wire. 11) Turn the burner. We don want to waste ga 12) Rinse each part in tum in warm tep water cry thoroughly and place the parts on cleen rags or paper (Not ews print a8 the nk containe of) 18) Empty the de-areasing solution from the tank and rinse the tarkwellin tap water elucing 1) Place the cleared tank back onto the burner and put the U-brackets back in position 2) Fillthe tank as before, but this time use dated water. (tap water id not recommended as impurities such as minerals, chemicals etc, can set up an electrolytic reaction between the minute particles and the gun metal, causing white flecks to appear on the new blued purface, 4 Ya