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Pines y Puntos de Soldaduras Mandos Ps3 - 1997JorgeYt
Pines y Puntos de Soldaduras Mandos Ps3 - 1997JorgeYt
TP39 - /\
TP41 - L2
TP42 - DD (D-pad Down)
TP43 - DR (D-pad Right)
TP44 - DU (D-pad Up)
TP60 - COM 3 (Common Line for Select, Start, L3 and R3)
This is for the newer Six-Axis, with the 4 legged POTs, as well as the older version of DualShock
3.
MSU_V2, MSU_V2.5 (Six-Axis) MSU_VX (DS3)
TP25 - COM 1
TP26 - COM 2
TP32 - PS
TP33 - Start
TP34 - R3
TP35 - L3
TP36 - Select
TP38 - [ ]
TP39 - X
TP40 - O
TP41 - /\
TP42 - R1
TP43 - R2
TP45 - L1
TP46 - L2
TP47 - DL
TP48 - DD
TP49 - DR
TP50 - DU
TP62 - V (Common Line for Home Button)
There is no TP spot for the COM 3 line on this version of board, best place to use is one of the
solder joints of the L3/R3 buttons.
TP7 - Ground
TP17 - COM 1
TP18 - COM 2
TP24 - PS
TP25 - Start
TP26 - R3
TP27 - L3
TP28 - Select
TP30 - [ ]
TP31 - X
TP32 - O
TP33 - /\
TP34 - R1
TP35 - R2
TP37 - L1
TP38 - L2
TP39 - DL
TP40 - DD
TP41 - DR
TP42 - DU
TP51 - V (Common Line for Home Button)
TP54 - Accelerometer Y-Axis
TP55 - Accelerometer X-Axis
TP56 - Accelerometer Z-Axis
There is no TP spot for the COM 3 line on this version of board, best place to use is one of the
solder joints of the L3/R3 buttons.
On the latest version of DS3 controllers there isn't much in the way of useful TP spots, but here
they are.
MSU_VX3
The TP spots for the buttons have all been removed from this board version, so that means
hitting a Via to attach wires, and they're about 1/3 the size of the ones in a 360 controller, so
even if you're pretty good at landing a wire on those you'll have to be a a lot more careful
scraping down and landing one on these things.
Right now this is probably the best spots to hit for an Arcade Stick or duplicate buttons, and
until I use this board for something they should suffice, so this part here may be updated after
I've done some more work on the board wiring it up to something and seeing which methods
and spots work best. They were nice enough to leave the COM1 and COM2 TP spots behind,
though that hardly makes it any easier if you were making an Arcade Stick from this version of
board and it'll make building a PS360 with this version of board a little more fun as well.
There isn't much in the way of useful TP spots, but here they are, and like all of the other
versions of controller the USB TP spots are still the same.
TP11 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)
TP13 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)
TP14 - Battery +
TP17 - COM1
TP18 - COM2
RST is the Reset or 'off' button on the bottom of the controller that pretty much no one uses
I'd imagine. The other side of it is Ground and any spot will work if you want to duplicate that
button for any reason.
Again there is no TP spot for the COM3 line and the best place to use is one of the solder joints
for the L3/R3 buttons, or you can hit a Via for it if you like.
For any Arcade Stick builders using this board version, soldering to the Vias on these
controllers isn't exactly the easiest thing to do, flipping the board over and using the contacts
for the Daughter board is really the best option.
The black carbon material needs to be removed if these spots are to be used, and this can be
done with an X-acto knife or some fine sandpaper, just be careful and when you get to the
shiny copper, STOP, you're done. Tin it up with some solder and there are your spots to use.
Try and use a 30awg wire, or 28awg at the largest, and make sure to secure the wiring with
some hot glue after you make the connection, but don't glue over the solder joint you just
made, secure the wire to the board back from the solder joint, in case you ever have to get to
it again for any reason.
The Pull-Up Resistors (7.5k) also need to be put back in the circuit as they're built into the
Daughter board and when it's removed they're not, and the controller will act up on you if
these are not in circuit, why Sony decided to do this back with the PS2 controllers and carry it
over to the PS3 is beyond me, it's really lame. There needs to be 2 of these Pull-Up Resistors
installed, one goes from V to COM1, the other goes from V to COM2. If you don't have any
7.5k Resistors you can use anything from 6.8k to 10k really, but they do need to be installed
since the Daughter board is removed, and all of the PS3 controllers are setup this way and
need those Pull-Ups if the Daughter board is removed.
MSU_VX4
Pretty much the same deal as the VX3 above, just a little different layout is all.
MSU_VX5
Pretty much the same deal as the VX3 and VX4 above, again just a little different layout.
TP8 - Rumble +
TP10 - LED + and V (Common Line for Home Button)
TP13 - 2.8v (Switched, Power for Sticks)
TP14 - Battery +
TP17 - COM1
TP18 - COM2
TOP
T101 - COM1
T102 - COM2
T103 - LSX
T104 - LSY
T105 - RSX
T106 - RSY
T205 - D+ (USB)
T206 - D- (USB)
T207 - 5v (USB)
T301 - Accelerometer Z-Axis (Pre Filter)
T302 - Accelerometer X-Axis (Pre Filter)
T303 - Accelerometer Y-Axis (Pre Filter)
T304 - Accelerometer Z-Axis (Post Filter)