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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 1
We are starting at the point where the frames have been cut out
and assembled. (For a description of how frames are
assembled, see Frame Kits in the "About our Plans and Kits"
directory.)
B uilding
forms may vary in type but the principles are
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basically the same. The assembled frames are mounted

on two longitudinal stringers that have been leveled both
lengthwise and athwartship. Each of the frames is spaced
the distance specified in the plans and centered. The
frames are left loose until adjustments for minor
descrepencies are made. Then the frames are attached to
the form using wood blocking or metal angles. Usually the
frames for inboards are fastened permanently as the set
up members serve as motor stringers. The frames for
other types of boats are most often only temporarily
fastened. Refer to the plans for specific instructions. Of
course, some small plywood boats use much simpler
building forms, and in the case of Stitch-N-Glue boats,
none at all. NEXT
The breasthook is a triangluar shaped piece of plywood that is

attached to the stem to provide a place for the sheers to attach.
The breasthook is glued and fastened to the stem before the
stem is attached to the frame.
Here
a plumb-bob is being used align the stem. The

plans have given a distance from the set-up level to the
top of the breasthook. Sufficient blocking is added to raise
the breasthook to the proper position and the stem and
breasthook assembly are firmly anchored in position.
Since
the keel in the after section of a planing hull, in

profile is a straight line, it is best to align the transom by
bringing it up to the proper height using a straight-edge on
the keel to assure that this line is true. If a transom knee
is called for, it can be used to determine the angle of the
transom. After alignment the transom is anchored in
position and braced to the form as necessary to assure it
will not move during construction. NEXT
The chine is clamped in position while it is sprung around

the frames to determine the correct angles for the frame
notches. It is imperative that the chine mate firmly in the
notches and does not merely bear on one corner of the
frame.
The builder is shown using a scrap of plywood as a jig to

determine the set-back of the chine from the forward
edge of the stem. The stem will eventually be "faired" or
beveled so the line formed by the chine will extend to the
centerline of the stem. If the design utilizes a chine
blocking member, as this one does, it may be necessary
to adjust the chine blocking to compensate for the
thickness of lumber you are using. Without chine

blocking, the position (up or down) of the chine on the
stem is determined by allowing the chine to take a smooth
(fair) bend around the framework. Although the exact
height can vary, the opposite chine should be at the same
height. NEXT
Fitting the chine at the stem is accomplished as shown.

Be sure to leave the chine long. Allow it to extend beyond
the transom as subsequent fitting may require it to be
moved forward.
The stem should be braced to prevent movement when

installing the chine. Chine (and sheer) lumber should be
carefully selected for straight grain. Often the screw in the
forward frame is left out when springing the chine into
position. This eliminates the tendency of the chine to
break at this point. The screw will be driven in when the
planking is applied. The chine and all subsequent
longitudinal members will be both fastened and glued in
position. NEXT
The
notches for the sheer (or sheer clamps) must be

angled as was done for the chine. In some cases the
sheer is built up from two laminations. It is imperative that
the sheer members be set in vertically from midship
forward. Attemping to twist and bend them to fit the
planking contour will frequently cause them to break.
Later in the fairing process the sheer will be beveled so
that the planking will mate on a flat surface.
The sheer has been angled to butt properly to the stem

and is now glued and fastened to the breasthook. Again,
leave the sheer long until it is properly fitted to the stem.
NEXT
FAIRING:
It will be necessary to "fair" the various

longitudinals. One method is to file a notch conforming to
the frame contour at each frame along the chine, sheer,
and keel. The angle of intermediate notches can be
determined by using a straight edge across members and
gradually adjusting the notch until the straight edge rests
on flat surfaces.
FAIRING:
These longitudinal members are then
planed to match the angle of the notches. Be sure that

the resultant surface is "fair", without humps or dips.
NEXT
FAIRING: A line is drawn from the frame closest to

the stem, or the next aft frame, to the center of the chine
at the stem. The portion above this line must faired to
provide a flat surface for the bottom planking to mate to.
The side planking will be fastened to the portion below
this line. In most instances, the chine will follow the angle
of the side frames so that fairing the chine for the side
planking is unnecessary.
FAIRING:
Any minor discrepencies must be faired
out of the frames. In planing boats, it is imperative that the

longitudinal lines in the aft section be straight lines. Use a
straight edge to determine fairness. Curved lines on a
planing boat can cause "porpoising", or to ride bow down.
Although this effect does not occur on displacement
boats, lines should be fair for esthetic reasons and unfair
lines will have some effect on performance. NEXT
FAIRING:
To insure that the longitudinal lines are

smooth, even, fair curves, stand back occasionally and
sight along the area being faired. Dips and humps must
be removed. If necessary another thin piece of wood can
be glued into low spots and the area re-faired.
FAIRING: A short length of plywood is used to check

the fairing in the forward portion of the boat. Considerable
material may have to be removed along the stem to
provide a solid landing for the bottom planking. Note that
sheet planking will naturally bend to form a convex
surface. NEXT
FAIRING: A short length of plywood is also used to

check the fairing for the side planking.
PLANKING "PATTERN":
Fitting the planking

is easiest done by leaning the panel against the side of
the boat and roughly marking to shape. Don't leave any
more material overhanging than necessary as scraps may
be utilized in other parts of the boat. Note: We are
frequently asked, "Where are the planking patterns?" In frame
construction, minor differences in frame spacing would make
patterns useless. The boat itself is the pattern.

NEXT
All
mating surfaces are coated with glue. A paint roller

works well for this purpose. Follow the glue
manufacturer's instructions and fasten panels in place
before the glue sets as a good bond is imperative.
Usually several locating screws are used to position the

panel while fitting and drilling for screws. The planking is
fastened to the longitudinals, stem and transom only; not
to the frames. After fitting and drilling, the panel is
removed and all mating surfaces are coated with glue.
The panel is then screwed in place. NOTE: The plywood

panels shown in many of these photos are full length; it is more
common to use standard 8' panels and join them with scarf
joints or butt blocks. NEXT
After the first side panel is installed the excess along the
stem is sawn off and planed smooth so that the second
side will lap the first side. Here the builder is trimming the
second side which will then be faired to match the first
side.
BUTT BLOCK:
Side and bottom planking usually

require a junction to make the panels long enough.
Although scarf joints can be used, the more common
method is to use a butt block. Butt blocks are usually the

same thickness of the planking being used. The joint is
always made between the frames (not on the frames) in
as flat an area as possible. Note that separate butt blocks
are fitted between the battens. The planking is temporarily
held in place, holes drilled into the butt blocks, the first
planking section removed, and the butt blocks glued and
fastened to the planking. The next planking section is
installed after the first in glued and fastened in place,
gluing and fastening to longitudinals and butt block. NEXT
In designs that have frames notched for the battens, it is

easiest to wait until after the application of the side
planking before installing the battens. These members
are notched into the frames the thickness of the lumber
being used. After installing, check that the bottom lines
are true. It may be necessary to fair or kerf the forward
ends of the battens to conform to the shape of the bottom
planking.
The
bottom planking is clamped or located with several
screws along the centerline of the keel. The forward end

of the planking is roughly marked to shape and a line
scribed along the chine. As much excess material as
possible is cut away in the forward section to make it
easier to force the planking into position. NEXT
TRANSITION JOINT:
In the forward section

there is usually a point where it is no longer practical to
lap the bottom planking over the edge of the side
planking. At a point we call the "transition joint", the
bottom planking changes from lapping to butting to the
side planking. At the stem, the side and bottom planking
will be in-line. The photo below illustrates the appearance
of the joint after the planking has been installed. NEXT
TRANSITION JOINT:
These
four
photos
illustrate the transition joint.

A Depicts the transition joint after the side planking has
been applied. Note that forward of the cleft, the side
planking is fitted to the line on the chine. Aft of this
position, the planking is left projecting above the chine.
B Shows this same area after the projecting plywood
planking has been faired, flush to the chine.
C Illustrates the appearance of the joint after the bottom
planking has been applied. Observe that the portion
forward of the bottom planking butts to the side planking.
Aft of this area, an abrupt transition is made and the
bottom planking laps the side planking.
D Shows the finished joint, as viewed from the side. The
transition point is clearly illustrated, the area forward
being butt joined, the portion aft, lap joined.
TRANSITION JOINT:
One method of marking

the line on the bottom panel, forward of the transition joint,
is to coat the sharp edge of the side panel with chalk or
crayon. The bottom panel is bumped on this edge to
transfer the line to the underside of the bottom planking
for subsequent cutting. NEXT
TRANSITION JOINT:
It will be necessary to
carefully hand-fit that portion of the bottom planking along
the chine that will butt join to the side planking. NOTE: To
facilitate bending, toweling has been placed on the area of
most stress, boiling water poured on, and allowed to set
several hours or over night.
In all cases, after fitting one panel, the contour should be

marked to the panel for the other side. It is, of course,
advisable to first check on the opposite side in case there
are any variations. NEXT
The
bottom panel is liberally coated with glue and

fastened into position. Note again the transition joint. The
lapped portion, aft of this point, is left oversize and
trimmed after the panel is fastened in place.
The two bottom panels will butt join along the keel until
the curve of the stem becomes too severe. From this
point forward the second half will lap the first panel. It is,
therefore, necessary to fair the first panel as was done
forward of the chine transition. NEXT
After righting the hull, it should be levelled and chocked

securely in position. At this point of construction the hull
could twist. It is imperative that the hull be held in position,
and re-levelled if moved.
The planking extending above the sheer should now be

removed. Depending on the type of boat, side decking,
cabin, seats, etc. are installed. Next
When
intermediate deck beams are used, they should

be blocked between the sheer clamps as shown. The
battens are notched into the frames and deck beams and
end against the sheer with a fitted bevel. If you do not
wish to see the batten ends notched into the dash beam,
the can be glued and fastened to blocking on the forward
side of the dash beam. The strongback (center batten)
can be partially notched into the breasthook and tapered
to make a smooth flowing curve to the stem.
he floorboards are usually fitted soon after the hull has

T
been righted to provide a flat work area for the builder.
Here, the buider is using a stick to transfer the outline of
the hull side to the floorboard panel. Floorboards are
unsually in serveal sections, with a removable center
section for bilge inspection. NEXT
B e fore applying the decking, it is often advisable to paint

or otherwise seal the forward area where later access will
be difficult.
The
sheet plywood decking is normally put on in two

parts, with the junction over the strongback. The sheer
edge is left oversize for fitting after the deck is glued and
fastened in place. NEXT
B utt
joints are made along the side deck as required.

Note that the foredeck extends along the side deck as long as
the panel will allow. Joints near the deck beam will tend to
crack after rough usage.
It
is good practice to install much of the interior fittings,

including through-deck chainplates (sailboats), steering
and wiring, before the decking is installed. Many areas
are not readily accessible after decking. NEXT
C enterboard and daggerboard trunks are fiberglassed on

the inside before assembly. This protects the inside of the
trunk from abrasion when the board is raised or lowered
and also seals it against water damage. The photos
above illustrate the normal procedure.
A Each half is assembled.
B Fiberglass cloth is fitted, then applied.
C The cloth is trimmed and any burrs sanded away.
The final step is to glue the two halves together. We
would recommend using thickened epoxy and using a
long dowel to form the resin that squeezes out on the
inside into a small fillet. If a sailboat is going to leak, it will
leak around the board. If the hull is fiberglassed on the
outside, we would recommend tucking cloth, as far as
practical, into the trunk to protect the exposed edge of
plywood.
The hulls shown in the preceeding photos have all been

planing powerboats. The procedures are much the same
for plywood rowboats or sailboats, but because sailboats
tend to have more "rocker" in the bottom, they may look
different on the building form. Frames may not all mount
directing on the building form. Some may have temporary
braces across the frame that will rest on the building form.
This will also apply to some powerboats. Other designs
may use much abbreviated forms or in some cases, none
at all. In all cases, the plans override any differences in
the procedures shown.
Return to Plywood Methods
Proceed to Multiple diagonal planking

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 1

forms may vary in type but the principles are

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 1

basically the same. The assembled frames are mounted

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 2

The breasthook is a triangluar shaped piece of plywood that is

a plumb-bob is being used align the stem. The

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 2

the keel in the after section of a planing hull, in

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 3

The chine is clamped in position while it is sprung around

The builder is shown using a scrap of plywood as a jig to

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 3

thickness of lumber you are using. Without chine

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 4

Fitting the chine at the stem is accomplished as shown.

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 4

The stem should be braced to prevent movement when

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 5

notches for the sheer (or sheer clamps) must be

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 5

The sheer has been angled to butt properly to the stem

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 6

It will be necessary to "fair" the various

These longitudinal members are then

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 6

planed to match the angle of the notches. Be sure that

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 7

FAIRING: A line is drawn from the frame closest to

Any minor discrepencies must be faired

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 7

out of the frames. In planing boats, it is imperative that the

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 8

To insure that the longitudinal lines are

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 8

FAIRING: A short length of plywood is used to check

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 9

FAIRING: A short length of plywood is also used to

Fitting the planking

Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 9

patterns useless. The boat itself is the pattern.

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 10

mating surfaces are coated with glue. A paint roller

Usually several locating screws are used to position the

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Boatbuilding Methods: Plywood Page 10

The panel is then screwed in place. NOTE: The plywood