ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR MANUAL STRIDA LIMITED Northway House, Northway, Cirencester, Gloucestershire GL7 2QY. Telephone: (0285) 60333 Telex: 437287 Fax: (0285) 68147© _SIRIDA_ Limited June 1988 Published by Strida Limited Printed by Taylor Brothers Editing and Typesetting by LasermarksSTRIDA Adjustment and Repair Manual This manual covers all aspects of adjusting and repairing the Strida bicycle. The trouble-shooting guide on page 2 is a quick reference for diagnosing problems. It refers the reader to one of the sections listed below. The manual explains how to dismantle and rebuild a Strida bicycle. Refer to the exploded view and parts list at the end of the booklet at all times. Part CONTENTS Page Trouble Shooting Guide. Checks and adjustments.. Top Joint, handlebars, front tube.. 3.1 Dismantling top j 3.2 Rebuilding top joint.. Front wheel assembly. 4.1 Dismantling front wheel from front tube 4.2 Rebuilding front wheel on to front tube Saddle mounting and seat tube. 5.1 Dismantling seat mounting 5.2 Rebuilding seat tube assembly Rear wheel assembly dS 6.1 Dismantling rear wheel from rear ji 6.2 Rebuilding rear wheel on 0 reat jOiMtesnmmeued 7 Bottom tube assembly. 7.1 Removing and dismantling the bottom tube 7.2 Rebuilding and refitting bottom tube assembly .42 Parts list and exploded view..... 4 7-49)(aayores ur Sod Suryooys) 143104 asn{py *s8urpynow Surunow ras souidoy “sdusey> pue o[ppes svoway uary8y1 4940 104 og “paptaosd Kay warty Bursn smaz08 9IN uaiysriag ways ‘eyoies our sity Bad yey os umop 10 dn Sununow ras isnfpy “sdwey> usomiaq iede paos0s tou aze sanqey Surunow 189s 49945 (€ eg ag) isn{pe-ar pur sued mou iim soaqey iuzof dor oriseid anyday (¢ 1meg 99g) moss Surdmeys q12q dor uaiy8noy ‘padden rou st 91qv9 axv1q rey) Y994D “I9499s out y9eq TTeq YsNd ays ‘masos Surduieys [1eq dor uaxoets (¢ 1g 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mazos pray vorng OT X SW warysty “9qn1 1033 ami JO apis Joyrt9 uo ‘a]xe ay1 UO sIdysem Burrs om axe azo) eq) 49949, “paSvmep 10 as00] (2ujof Sunssuuos) ysng rol wos “> *(speoy 194905 Op x BIN) aS00] smaz0s urdureyo Suniseo 19¥9e1q Wonog “gE -2s00] sButzeag (queso) 1249"1q Wonog “y Ayquiasse 1991090, “3 “Sunseo urd Sursaais yo 1owuste ood “g "1uaq tou ogni 14035 49949 “sdors 420] 01 19eduy Jo [aay auosy 01 1oedurt Aq[e199ds9 ‘asn-sIW “¥ “po8ewep 10 109q 91x “a ‘oeuep 01 anp iuaq eqn wosy “q -soo] Aiquiasse [xy *D. -Surirepad uaym f1aarssaaxa sau syuess pus faqind yuosg “eT +9800] 40 pasemep ‘payers yoyes Kyayes 40 (1UIOf Guyisauuos) ysnq qurof yuosd “ZT saang, sasney aiqissog wneg 1 ued jenuey eps(SV'2°L wonses 995) 194983q wonog o1quiosst-o1 pur Arvssoo9u 31 uBye-ay “Koqind 01 1uaoeipe sBurze9q Jo Maza ure 01 yuB19 UMOP aprTs pu duos Sulstaq 194981q WoI0q Moz9SUN| 1epad “H “1 1y9y “deopus yueio ooejdoy “lepad “H “| 2aowoy +(s)1epad aoejdax ‘usm jt ‘30 deo pus yJo astid sfutseaq jepad 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Kaqind 1w0sy MoUY *masos puoy wonng 91 X $W 49pun pasn ssoysem Bursds rosus09uF puk uoNeotqny Jo sp 1utoy “g, suonvotiqny Jo sp urop “y 9498 Peay voIING OT x 8 sapun pasn sraysem Surzds 190ds09uT “g, *980o] Mox9s peoy wong 91 x SW “V “(61 998) (punos8 01 poddosp uooq sey foqind pur) M2198 pBay woINg 9] X BW eS00] 01 np 200] wtf aqmi was 01 aqm WoNlog “g *Suranys pue Suyusdo way’ JUN St aqny wor10g “14317 003 duyof aqny eas 03 aqny WoII0g “OZ *1y8}9m uso sapun Ky49d yUIs Pinoys aqny worjog “Burinys pue @uyuado uaya asoo] suaas yusof 2qny yeas 07 9qny WorI0g “6T saang sasney a1qIssog wneg | eg jenuey BPSORF suieg 29§) S2]xv 1oz 10 10d 20ujdoy, “(¢ pue ¢ sueg 09) wu 1 uryitm on uBrTe smu Kays “spus ayxe y9949 -91 put saqni ivas 10 1u0sy aaejdoy (6°Z worsag 99g) 19009 qny ao"]doy 1(6°z wonseg 998) qui onserd 01 oSewep proar 01 1nu 490] uo Fusind pue yyo Furyer vaya J9A09 qny s9UUT PIOH “qny sv9 uo Aqqurasse Burs dio qny aoedoy, sumop Surppag 1stsse 01 Butz dio qny Jo ,.y1901,, aprsur 01 autfase, Jo 1unowe [jeus /19409 qny wo 40 (14033) 39409 qny Uo quL “a “paisn{pe Apisesosuy “y “punoss 07 oSh 28 Suruway ay1q YIM 19439809 Samy ayy ysmd nox se aqny quoay ayy ap88yam sdey “dypoun 07 axiq Surjnys urys 194 )9303 spaoqm 4419 03 atqyssoduy 40 y1ma"5510 “Zz “(avad 40 yu04)) 9800] Suysvaq [994M “TZ saang, sasney a[qissog wneg 1 Meg jenuey epsaurof ‘a[quasse-o1 pue oarsoype Aaqenb poo8, any “Ez saang, sasney a[qissog yneg Leg jenuey BPS‘2Aoge Se isn[pe pur smazos aox[doy -4yaanoas smauos uaiysnias pur (¢1°z wons9g 39§) 1urof 1wo4y Jo uonntsod isnfpy “(Ty uondag 99) 11594 pur sx0199]501 2A0WI9y *soyods om uoom1oq [es1U99 auv sso199yjor rey) os uoritsod-oy, ‘uontsod s9A9] 2Aou! pur wasos Surnity J9Aa] ayeIq U9yDEIS “pode uoym s129qm 490] 01 ps09 dois aye3q uo 10uy ani-o1 puv s8njd pua seqaqpuey ino ostg soyeaq isnfpy poSemep 40 poysians smoios 1urof oly “a -asoo] smasos 1UJof wos “y Apisaar09 simu Sununow ur pose8us 10 sio99 1594 “a “ytenba sayods om1 uo 10N “y Buosm uorntsod 199] oxeIG ‘roausoour qi8ue] psog “g -paisn{pe Kjisou09ut soyerg “Vy “(usnq| juyof yuosy yoes9 < {pen uaaa weD)} Sur2auuoasip pue 3ur22IUWU09| uayA 14317 syusOl sayeu roqny ju04j Uo prsow yurof yuosg “g7| *asoo] $40}991394 [994M “LZ *Busy10M you pros dors axesg “97| saang sasney atqissog yney Lured jenuew epsStrida Manual Part 2 2. Checks and Adjustments Each bike is given a comprehensive check and adjustments are made when it leaves the factory. To bring a “used” bike up to “as new” condition it is worth while going through the same check and adjustment programme. The order of checks is designed to go round the bicycle in a logical sequence as shown in diagram 1. Diagram 1 131. ‘Strida Manual Part 2 Brakes. Pull the front brake lever and push the bike forward to check brake adjustment. The front brake should lock. ideally with the lever about 15mm away from the hand grip. Lift the front wheel from the ground and spin, It should spin freely with the brake off. To adjust the brakes slacken the adjuster lock-nut and turn the adjuster as shown in Diagram 2. If the brake shoes have not fully bedded in, the position where the lever locks the wheel may have to be closer to the hand grip. Adjust it to get a good compromise between locking the brakes easily and free spinning. If the adjuster is at the end of its travel alter the position of the anchor on the inner cable. Adjuster SP Siacken <> Totten Diagram 2 Check and adjust the rear brake in the same way but push the bike backwards for this. Brake Back Plates When spinning the wheels check that the brake back plates are not catching the front drum and rear pulley. Prise away with a knife if necessary. There should be a gap of about 1 mm all round. Brake Stop Cords Slip cach cord loop over the brake lever and check that it is secure and that it locks the wheel. Make sure the brakes are correctly 14‘Strida Manual Part 2 adjusted. To alter the loop, prise out the end plugs and re-tic the knot in the cord to get the right length. 4, Brake Lever and Handlebar Rigidity Check the tightness of the brake lever fixing screws and pozi-head screws in the top joint mouldings (“Strida”). 5. Top Ball Joint Check for play in the top ball joint by firmly grasping the seat tube at the top and the Top Joint Mouldings (“Strida”), then pulling and Pushing together horizontally. If play is felt the MS socket screw fon the right hand side should be turned clockwise a small amount with a 4mm Allen key until the play disappears. Do not overtighten. Turn the steering to both extremes and check that the ball is not dry. Apply Vaseline if necessary. Check that the brake cable is not damaged and that the ball is not too tight in the socket. (Slacken the MS screw slightly). 6. Saddle Mounting Check that the join line between the two seat mounting mouldings at the back (below the saddle) is closed down and uniform. If the mouldings are slightly prised open half way down, the height adjustment ratchet is not engaged. Slacken the M6 height adjustment screws (using the Smm Allen key provided under the saddle) by about six turns each. Then raise or lower the seat mounting until you feel it click into the next ratchet socket. Re-tighten the M6 screws so that they are tight enough to stop any rotation of the seat mounting on the seat tube. Do not overtighten 7. Rear Mudguard Check that the rear mudguard is aligned with the tyre. Small adjustments may be made by gently bending the mudguard past the required position so as to allow for springing back. 8. Rear Reflectors and Rear Wheel Reflectors Check for position and security. 9. Rear Wheel Bearings Slip the belt off the front pulley then try to rock the rear wheel whilst grasping the seat tube and lifting the bike off the ground Any play in the bearings will then be felt. To stop any play in the bearing: Q —_ Remove the hub clip ring assembly by firmly grasping the 15Strida Manual Part 2 the inner ring (fixed next to wheel spokes) whilst unscrewing the lock nut at the centre. This is to avoid damage to the plastic tab which fits into the slot on the axle. Q With the locknut off, prise off the assembly, keeping it square, without twisting. Check that the plastic tab is intact. If not, replace hub clip ring assembly Q Turn the bearing cone (which is now visible) clockwise until the free play in the bearing is taken up. Q Turn the bearing cone a further 20° approximately so as to give some pre-load. Q Replace the hub clip ring assembly by locating the tab in the slot and pushing on to the axle squarely without twisting. Q Grasp inner part again tightly, screw on locknut and tighten to 50kg cm (45 Ib in). Take care not to damage the plastic tab. Wheel bearing cone N Slot in axle Plastic tab Grip hub clip ting here Diagram 3 10. Bottom Bracket Bearings With the belt still off, grasp the crank and feel for play in the bottom bracket bearings. To remove play in the bearings Q — Slacken the bottom bracket lock nut (L. H. thread, so turn clockwise) Q Using screwdriver in slot turn the bottom bracket cone anti- clockwise to take up some of the play (do not take up all 16‘Strida Manual Part 2 the play because when you re-tighten the locknut the bearings will be over-tightened.) Q — Re-tighten the locknut Q Check that there is no play in the bearings and that they are spinning freely. Repeat if necessary. 11, Belt Tension Engage the belt at the top of the front pulley, then turn the crank forward to re-engage the belt. To check the belt tension press down lightly (1kg or 2Ibs) in the centre of the top span of the belt. The belt should be 2 to 6 mm above the bottom tube when correctly tensioned. To adjust belt tension, slacken two M8 Cap Screws on L. H. bottom bracket by 1 1/2 turns each. (Use 6mm Long series Allen key). To increase the belt tension: tighten the M4 Nylock nut one flat at a time, clockwise, until the correct tension is achieved. (The bottom bracket assembly is moved forward) Diagram 5 17Strida Manual Part 2 To decrease the belt tension: slacken the M4 Nylock nut by about one turn at a time, anti-clockwise. Then tap the bottom bracket castings with a soft faced hammer in position “x” on Diagram 5 (to move the bottom bracket assembly backwards) until correct tension is achieved. When the belt tension is correct, gradually re-tighten the M8 Cap Screws and torque up very tight (12 Ibs ft or 165 cm/kg) using a long series 6mm Allen key. With the rear wheel lifted spin crank to turn the belt and rear wheel. It should spin freely and freewheel smoothly. 12, Pedals Check that Q the pedals are screwed on tightly, the bearings are correctly adjusted; if necessary prise off end cover to gain access to lock nut and adjust as wheel bearings, Q the crank end cap is on the left hand crank. 13. Front Reflector and Wheel Reflectors Check for position and security. 14, Front Wheel Bearings Check and adjust if necessary, using the same procedure as for rear wheel bearings in Section 9 above. 15. Front Joint Disconnect and re-connect the front joint. If it is too tight apply Vaseline to the steering pin. Check that the joint goes together with a loud click and that it is secure. If this fails, it is possible to adjust the position of the front joint on the front tube by slackening the MS screws. (Use 4 mm Allen key). This should be done by trial and error until a position is found where the action is not stiff. A good starting position for adjustment is 441mm from the top of the Front Joint to the lower edge of the top Joint mouldings, measured along the front tube. N.B. ALWAYS check tightness of MS screws (torque should be 50 in Ibs or 55 cm kgs). Do not force the joint together or put any strain on it as this may damage the front joint bush moulding. 16. Closing - Clip Ring Action Close the bike up and check that the clip ring is not too tight to clip 1817 19. 20. 24. 22. Strida Manual Part 2 together and separate. (Any tightness can usually be cured by putting Vaseline on the clip ring teeth or changing the hub clip ring assembly and front hub cover.) Also check that the clip ring holds the closed bike together securely by bouncing it on its wheels. The wheels should not come apart. If the clip ring is not secure replace the hub clip ring assembly or both this and the front hub cover. Bottom Tube to Rear Joint When raising and lowering the bottom tube check that it is not too tight (it should not stick in position) or not too loose (it should not fall to the ground due to lack of friction or damping). If adjustment is needed select the next thickness spring washer under the M8 x 16 Button Head screw. If it is too tight it needs the next thickness of washer, smaller from the selection of 0.75mm (.030"), 1.0mm (.040"), 1.25mm (.050"), 1.5mm (.060") washer thickness. If it is too loose it needs the next thickness of washer, larger. Check also that the Button Head screw is thread locked and securely torqued down on to the end of the protuding axle (using Smm Allen key). Leave the Allen key in place to check that it does not move with the bottom tube. Check that the joint is greased with Vaseline between the bottom tube and the rear joint face, and on the axle and under the spring washers, Lack of grease can also be the reason for the joint being too tight. Tyres Check that the tyres are evenly seated on the rims and are fully inflated to the pressures shown on the side walls. Visible Screws Check all visible screws for tightness. Visual Check Visually check the bike for missing or damaged components, general alignment and labels. (Identification label and anti-scuffing label are on the left hand bottom bracket casting). Test Ride Ride the bike to check the brake action and the general feel of the bike. Re-adjust the brakes if necessary. Appearance Clean off any dirt on the bike. Touch up any scratches on the paintwork, using Matt Black touch up paint or permanent black marker. 19Strida Manual Part 3 3. Top Joint, Handlebars and Front Tube The top joint needs to be dismantled for any of the following opera- tions- Q Changing damaged top joint mouldings. OQ Changing handlebar assembly. Q Changing brake cable assemblies. Q Changing front tube. N.B. Brake levers, hand grips, hand grip end plug, brake stop cord, brake cable inners and fasteners may be changed without dismantling. 3.1 Dismantling Top Joint 1. Prise out hand grip end plugs, complete with brake stop cords. 2. Slide off hand grips. 3. Pull brake levers on to gain access to lever mounting screws. Use a thin shaft screwdriver to slacken screws without distort- ing exposed brake cable inner. 4. Unscrew MS x 25 socket Head screw from R. H. top joint mould- ing using 4mm Allen key. 5. Remove MS Nylock nut from L.H. top joint Moulding. 6. Remove four No. 6 x 1/2" Pozi-Pan Head, self-tapping screws, two from each side. (N.B. For access only; remove only L.H. screws and L.H. moulding) 7. With the Front Joint holding the front tube in position, the Top Joint Mouldings can be taken apart and this will allow the brake cables to come away from between them. The brake levers can then be pulled off the handlebars. N.B. Leave the brake cable assemblies attached to the brake levers unless the brake cable assemblies are to be renewed. 8. The Top Joint Mouldings can be pulled off the handlebars with the brake levers. N.B. At this stage only the Front Joint is holding the bicycle 20‘Strida Manual Part 3 together. AVOID ANY STRAIN ON THIS JOINT. It may easily be damaged in this position. Unless work on the front tube or han- dlebars is required the Top Joint may now be re-assembled. 9. The front tube assembly complete with handlebars may now be disconnected from the rest of the bicycle by disconnecting the front joint. 10. Brake cable assemblies (both front and rear) may now be removed (if necessary) by - Q Removing wire end cover from end of brake inner cable with pliers. Q — Slackening brake anchor attachment. Q Pushing and pulling brake cable assembly and withdrawing it from the top of the front or seat tube. 11. If either the front tube or the handlebar assembly is damaged and must be renewed they must first be separated. This is a dif- ficult operation as they are bonded together. It is best done by destroying the damaged part. (Early bonded handlebar assem- blies may be re-bonded by separating the failed joint, filing the mating surfaces to roughen them, and then re-assembling them with high strength epoxy adhesive). If the front tube is renewed everything may be transferred to it from the damaged tube except the front end cap moulding. This moulding must be renewed. The front joint casting must be transferred before the handlebars are attached. Prise open the casting slightly to avoid damaging the paint. 3.2 Rebuilding Top Joint 1, With the front joint casting in position, assemble the handlebar assembly on to the swaged top end of the front tube. Use a liberal amount of high strength cpoxy adhesive in the joint. Wipe off excess adhesive and align the handlebars to point straight ahead relative to the front wheel. Align the height of the handlebar assembly so that the holes for the No. 6 x 1/2" Pozi- pan Head self-tapping top joint screws align. As a double check see that the distance from the underside of the handlebar exten- sion tube to the centre of the front axle is as shown in Diagram 6. This is important as it brings the axles directly together when Shutting the bike and this is essential for them to clip together 2Diagram 6 2. New brake cable assemblies are refitted by pushing the barrel end nipple up from the nipple should be aligned as shown in Diagram 7. (Flats of nipple are past flats of slot) Push the brake cables up the inside of the tube and they will find their own way through and out of the top (under the ball in the case of the seat tube). Diagram 7 lower end of the tubes. The barrel end Front tube (0 seat tude) Slot Brake cable Barrel end nipple Brake cable assembly 22Strida Manual Part 3 3. Replace the R.H. Top Joint moulding first. When brake cables are still attached to the levers thread the levers on to the handlebars immediately, as cables will not stretch once a Top Joint Moulding is seated. Apply a thin layer of Vaseline to the top ball. Also apply Vaseline to the ball sockets if the Top Joint Mouldings are new. 4, Screw the R.H. Top Joint Moulding into position with two No. 6 x 1/2” Pozi-Pan head self-tapping screws. Make sure the front Tape laround cables and tube in his postion (it necessary) jagram B brake cable is positioned as shown in Diagram 8 and not trapped. 5. Place the top ball into the socket on the R.H. top joint moulding and then thread the L.H. Top Joint Moulding and Rear Brake lever (if still attached to the brake cable) on to the L.H. handle- bar. Turn the handlebars on to the full R.H. lock then position the rear brake cable as shown in Diagram 8. (Use self adhesive tape around cables and tube if necessary). 6. Use two No. 6 x 1/2" Pozi-head Pan head self-tapping screws to screw the L. H. Top Joint moulding into position, with the ball in the socket. Avoid trapping the brake cables. Check that equal lengths of brake cable stick out of the front. 7. Put the MS Nylock nut into the moulded hole on the L.H. top joint moulding, with Nylon locking ring on the outside. 8. Put a MS x 25 socket head screw into the hole on the R. H. Top 23To ‘Strida Manual Part 3 Joint and screw into the MS Nylock Nut using a 4mm Allen key. Tighten the screw to take up play between the top ball and sock- et. If you can feel play by pulling the seat tube towards and away from the top joint, you will need to tighten the screw fur- ther but do not over-tighten it as you will make the steering tight and cause premature wear. Check that the joint gap between the L. H. and R. H. Top Joint Mouldings is even. If the MS x 25 screw is over-tightened this gap closes in this area. 9. Position brake levers so that in the “on” position they overhang the handlebars by 6mm. They should be angled equally at about 20° below the horizontal. Tighten the mounting screws very tight with a thin shaft screwdriver. Take care not to kink the brake cable if it is in position. 10.When new brake cables have been fitted connect the barrel end nipples and outers into the brake levers. Then connect up the lower ends of the brake cables. With the adjuster in the lowest position thread through the brake cable inner and connect up to the anchor. The actuating lever should be held in the “on” posi tion (against the spring) to take up the slack. Now adjust brakes as described in Section 2.1. 11.Replace the handgrips. Soapy water applied to their insides and to the handlebars helps them to slide into place. 12.Replace Handgrip end plugs, complete with brake stop cords. Replace a Brake Cable Inner Remove the wire end cover and disconnect the lower end of the cable inner from the anchor. Disconnect the top end of the brake cable assembly from the brake lever. Pull out the old brake cable inner from the top. Re-thread a new brake cable inner from the top through the outer. This will guide it down to the lower end unless the outer is damaged in which case replace the brake cable assem- bly. Reconnect the cable inner in reverse order and adjust. 24Strida Manual Part 4 4. Front Wheel Assembly The front wheel needs to be detached for any of the following operations- Q Changing brake assembly. Q Changing or greasing wheel bearings. Q Changing front axle. Changing front tube. N.B. Tyres and tubes, reflectors, hub cover and mudguard may be changed without detaching the front wheel. (The mudguard mounting screws can be accessed by removing the tyre and tube.) 4.1 Dismantling Front Wheel from Front Tube 1. Grasp the plastic hub cover firmly to stop it turning (it might damage the plastic tab) and remove the axle lock nut at the centre of the front wheel. 2. Prise off the hub cover (without twisting it) so as to get access to the bearing cone. 3. Unscrew the bearing cone and remove the caged ball bearings. Put them on a clean surface so that they do not pick up grit. 4, The front wheel can now be lifted off, followed by the inner caged ball bearings. This gives access to the brake assembly. 5. In the unlikely event that the brake shoes need replacing, remove the circlip and prise off. Replace in opposite order. N.B. Grease the operating cam. 6. Disconnect the brake cable from the brake assembly. Using a 3mm Allen key unscrew the MS x 15 Button head screw that anchors the brake backplate extension to the inside of the front tube. N.B. Early bikes have one or two No. 12 x 1/2” Pozi-pan head self- tapping screws with a washer sandwiched between the brake and the tube. 25Strida Manual Part 4 8. Using a Smm Allen key unscrew the M8 x 16 Button head screw from the end of the axle and remove it with the 23mm spring washer. 9. Tap the axle out through the tube using a suitable punch. 10. The axle can now be removed from the brake assembly using a 3/4” offset ring spanner on the 3/4” hex of the axle, and a 24mm spanner (or adjustable) on the M16 lock nut. Unscrew the locknut from the axle and remove the brake assembly. 11, If the front end cap has to be removed it must be replaced with a new part. To remove it, drill a hole into its end and screw in a suitable self-tapping screw to provide grip. Then withdraw the moulding with pliers or a vice. 12, To remove the mudguard, unscrew the two No 6 x 1/2" Pozi- flange head self-tapping screws. 13. The tyre and tube, bearing cups and reflectors may be removed from the wheel but the brake drum is permanently fixed. 4.2 Rebuilding Front Wheel on to the Front Tube 1. Tap bearing cups into place on wheel, making sure they are well seated. 2. Put on the tyre and tube and inflate to the pressure shown on the sidewall. Make sure the tyre is seated evenly. 3. Assemble the wheel reflectors on to the wheel as described below. N.B. Some markets have different reflectors, or none at all. The type described here is the most common and also the hardest to fit i) Put both MS nuts into the plastic reflector mounting and screw this assembly on to the MS stud on one of the reflectors. The stud should be threaded though the moulding and screwed down until it engages the first thread of the nut from behind. The reflector mounting will now be 3.5mm to 4mm away from the back of the reflector. (Alternatively pack two or three washers on to the stud between the reflector and the reflector mounting to give this clearance) See Diagram 9 26Strida Manual Part 4 Gap 35 to 4mm. 2nd reflector Nu 1st reflector Downward force and screw in wut Roflector mounting block-wheel (moulding) Diagram 9 ii) Position this reflector near the wheel rim, between spokes, opposite the valve. Take the second reflector and screw it gently into position on the reflector mounting. Do not push it in as this may dislodge the M5 nut. Apply a downwards force as well as screwing so that the reflector mounting moulding does not rotate. iii) Screw in the second reflector until it is secure then screw the first reflector in further for added security. Check that the reflectors are equally spaced between the spokes, against the rim and that the rectangular part of the reflector is in line with the hub of the wheel. 4. Position new front end cap moulding with the cut-out towards the position of the brake assembly i.e. towards the centre line of the bicycle. Then tap gently into the flattened end of the front tube using a soft-headed hammer until the holes in the tube align with the hole in the moulding. 5. Assemble front axle on to the front brake assembly and secure with the M16 locknut. Hold the M16 locknut in a vice, with a 24mm spanner or with an adjustable spanner so that one of its corners points directly at the pivot point of the brake actuating lever, (See Diagram 10). This is so as not to interfere with the action of the actuating lever. Then tighten the axle into the brake assembly and locknut, using a 3/4" offset ring spanner. Make this very tight - about 3 m kg (20 Ib ft.) 27‘Strida Manual Part 4 Diagram 10 6. Attach the axle/brake assembly on to the front tube with two spring washers. (23mm outside diameter, 12mm inside diameter and 1mm thick) Belled as shown in Diagram 11. Do not tighten down at this stage. Dise springs Brake assembly 23 x 12.2x im. (spring washers) Diagram 11 7. Align slot in brake backplate extension with threaded insert and screw in M5 x 15 Button head screw. Using thread lock on the threads, screw in, to position brake assembly correctly. Do not tighten down at this stage. N.B. Early bikes use one or two No.12 x 1/2" Pozi-pan head self- tapping screws in the same position. Replace these in the same 28‘Strida Manual Part 4 way using thread lock. If there is only one self-tapping screw drill another 4.3mm hole in the tube to put another self-tapping screw into the tube through the upper end of the slot. 8. Screw down M8 x 16 Button head socket screw using a Smm Allen key. This will draw the axle through the front tube and compress the two spring washers. Make sure the outer spring washer is concentric with the screw so that the axle is pulled up through its hole. Tighten screw very tight. (140 cm kg or 120 in Ibs). 9. Now tighten down MS x 15 Button Head screw, using thread lock. (Or two No. 12 x 1/2" Pozi-pan head self-tapping screws). 10. The front mudguard is the same as the rear mudguard but the front reflector (white) is mounted in the lower position and the front top mounting hole is pierced to attach it to the tube as shown in Diagram 12. Screw the mudguard on to the front tube with two No 6 x 1/2" Pozi-flange head self-tapping screws. The mudguard must be aligned with the tyre so this is best done by temporarily mounting the wheel on to the axle, aligning the mudguard, then removing the wheel and tightening the mudguard mounting screws. Small adjustments to the mudguard position can be made after it is mounted by gently forcing it past the required position so that it springs back into positi Diagram 12 11. Apply waterproof grease to the bearing cups where the bearings run. Assemble the wheel on to the axle with the bearing cages away from the centreline. Renew any worn parts. 29Strida Manual Part 4 12. Screw on the bearing cone and tighten it down until the bearings start to bind. Then slacken off until they spin freely. Adjust so that there is no free play, a small amount of pre-load and no resistance. N. B. The bearings are initially tightened like this to make sure that all the components are seated down. 13. Align plastic tab in axle slot and without twisting press on the hub cover moulding squarely. 14, Tightly grasp the hub cover moulding to avoid any twist and damage to plastic tab and screw down the axle locknut using threadlock Tighten to 50 cm kg or 45 in Ibs. 15. Re-connect the brake cable to the brake assembly and adjust (See sections 3.2.10 and 2.1.) 16. Check that the brake backplate is not catching on to the brake drum. Prise it away if necessary with a knife so as to get, ideally, a Imm gap all round. 30‘Strida Manual Part 5 5. Saddle Mounting and Seat Tube This Q a a Su 1 5.2 section describes - Removing saddle and mounting Removing luggage carrier Seat tube joints mantling Seat Mounting Remove elastic bungees. Remove carrier. Use 5mm Allen key to unscrew M6 socket headed screw from MS nut. Withdraw M6 screw, noting on early tubular carriers where washers and radius washers fit. Remove Smm Allen key from under saddle. Remove saddle by unscrewing the M8 x 65 Hex head bolt and Nylock nut with two 13mm spanners. Remove Nylock nut and adjacent mounting clamp, bolt and the other mounting clamp. Gently prise saddle wire, on one side, out of the slot and up so as to rotate the saddle around the other wire, past the moulding. . Completely unscrew M6 x 30 socket headed screws on “Norma” seat mounting clamps and remove screws and thread protectors. . Gently pull “Norma” seat mounting clamps off seat mounting mouldings. The mouldings are then free to be removed. Check mouldings for damage inside and out. Check that the moulded-in ratchet which engages the spirol pin is not damaged. Re-building Seat Tube Assembly If the seat tube has been damaged and needs to be renewed it must be disconnected at the top (See Part 3) and at the bottom (See Parts 6 and 7). . If the bonded joint between the seat tube and the rear joint casting has been damaged it may be repaired by mechanical means as follows: (if in doubt renew the seat tube complete). See Diagram 13. 3tStrida Manual Part 5 i) Check that the seat tube is aligned correctly on the rear joint casting. The saddle and mudguard should be pointing exactly forward and there should be no gap between the seat tube and the rear joint casting. ii) Drill a hole 5.8mm diameter through the tube and casting squarely and central. Then countersink on outside to 12mm diameter, iii) Fit M6 x 40 countersink socket screw. This should be a tight fit and will probably need to be screwed in with a 4mm Allen key. iv) Stop M6 screw rotating with 4mm Allen key and screw on tightly the M6 Nylock nut (165 kg cm or 12 Ib ft). Drill hole 5.8mm, and counter-sink {seat tive or M6 x40 Csk, | Me nut (Nylock) s alk Diagram 13 3. If the M4 x 50 heavy duty spirol pin that engages the seat mounting moulding ratchet is loose or damaged it should be renewed. It should protude 2.5mm on under- side (front) of the tube. 4. Apply a small amount of clear Vaseline to the tongue and Broove joint around the edge of the seat mounting mouldings between “A” and “B” and also around boss “C” and “D", This is to prevent a creaking noise as the mouldings rub together. See Diagram 14. 32‘Strida Manual Part 5 5. Position the seat mounting mouldings on the seat tube with the spirol pin in the Sth ratchet slot down (adjacent to rib), the aver- age saddle height. As shown in Diagram 14. Diagram 14 6. Slip “Norma” seat mounting clamps on to the seat mounting mouldings and screw in M6 x 30 socket head screws, using a Smm Allen key. Make sure the sockets are on the right hand side of the mouldings (the same side of the bike as the front pulley). Tighten screws (55cm kg or 50 in Ibs) so as to clamp mouldings securely to seat tube. 7. Snap the saddle back into position by putting one wire into the slot then rotating the saddle until the other wire goes down over the ramp and into the slot. Put one saddle mounting clamp on the M8 x 65 Hex head bolt and thread through seat mounting moulding. Put on the other saddle mounting clamp and the M8 Nylock nut. Use two 13mm spanners to tighten the nut until secure but do not overtighten. (55cm kg or 50 in Ibs) 9. Re. tach luggage carrier to base of seat mounting 33‘Strida Manual Part 5 moulding using M6 socket head screw and Smm Allen key. 10.Replace Smm Allen key into the hole under the saddle.‘Strida Manual Part 6 6. Rear Wheel Assembly The rear wheel needs to be detached to - Q Change the brake assembly. Q Change or grease the wheel bearings. Q Change the rear pulley. Q Change the rear axle. N.B. Tyres, tubes, reflectors and the hub clip ring assembly may be changed without detaching the rear wheel. The mudguard mounting screws can be accessed by removing tyre and tube. 6.1 Dismantling Rear Wheel from Rear Joint. 1, Pull belt off front pulley to release belt tension. 2. Tightly grasp the inner (fixed) part of the hub clip ring assembly to stop it turning and remove the axle locknut at the centre of the rear wheel. (This inner part is the same component as the front hub cover, with the clip ring permanently attached Damage to the plastic tab must be avoided.) 3. Prise off the hub clip ring assembly, without twisting it, to gain access to the bearing cone. 4. Unscrew the bearing cone. Remove the caged ball bearings. (Put them on a clean surface to avoid picking up grit). The rear wheel assembly can now be lifted out, followed by the inner caged ball bearings. This gives access to the rear pulley (which acts as the rear brake drum) and to the brake assembly.Strida Manual Part 6 6. The rear pulley is a light press fit on the rear wheel and can be lifted off by hand. Check the rear pulley for excessive wear: 4) On the outside teeth where the belt runs. b) On the inside where the brake shoes act. ©) On the outside of the flange where the brake back plate might have been rubbing. Check the security of the flange to the rear pulley. The inside edge may be re-pcened to fix the flange by lightly hammering the inner edge. See Diagram 15. Lightly peen this edge Flange Diagram 15 7. The inner bearing cup is a light press fit into the rear pulley and may be tapped out easily. If it is a loose fit, re-fit with “Bearing Fit” adhesive. 8. Disconnect the brake cable from the brake assembly. 9. In the unlikely event that the brake shoes need replacing temove the circlip and prise off. Replace in opposite order. N.B. Grease the operating cam. 10. Unscrew the M6 x 10 Pozi-pan head screw that anchors the brake backplate extension to the rear joint casting. N.B. On later bikes this screw has been replaced by a cast-in spigot on the rear joint. 11, Remove the complete bottom tube. (See Section 7.1) by remov- ing M8 x 16 button head screw and spring washers. 12, Using a 3/4" A/F offset ring spanner, unscrew the rear axle from the rear joint casting. N.B. L.H. thread so unscrew clockwise. 36Strida Manual Part 6 This releases the rear brake assembly. 13.Unserew the two No. 6 x 1/2" Pozi-flange head self-tapping screws to remove the mudguard. 14.The tyre and tube, bearing cup and the reflectors may be removed from the wheel. 6.2 Rebuilding Rear Wheel on to Rear Joi 1, Tap outside bearing cup into place on the wheel, making sure it is well seated. 2. Put on the tyre and tube. Inflate to the pressure shown on the sidewall. Make sure the tyre is seated evenly. 3. Assemble the wheel reflectors on to the wheel (See section 4.2.3) and re-attach the rear pulley, aligning the six mounting bosses, together with the inner bearing cup. 4. Assemble the rear axle with thread lock through the rear brake assembly onto the rear joint casting. (L.H. thread so screw anti clockwise). Screw in and tighten the M6 x 10 pozi-pan head screw through the slot in the brake backplate extension into the rear joint casting (unless spigot is cast in). 5. Use 3/4” A/F offset ring spanner to torque up rear axle (L.H. thread) very tightly into rear joint to 4.8 mkg (about 35. Ib ft). 6. Re-assemble bottom tube assembly to rear joint and re-position belt (See Section 7.2). 7. The rear mudguard is the same as the front mudguard but the rear reflector (red) is mounted in the top position and the other mounting hole is pierced to attach it to the tube as shown in Diagram 16. The mudguard is screwed on in the same manner as the front mudguard (See Section 4. 2. 10) 37Strida Manual Part 6 Rear (ee retlectorin tipper mounting postion 8. Grease the bearings, assemble the rear wheel, adjust the bear- ings, fit the hub clip ring assembly and locknut, re-connect and adjust brakes and check brake backplate in the same way as described for the front wheel (See Section 4.2.11 to 4.2.16). 9. Reconnect the belt by attaching it to the top of the front pulley and turning the crank forward, this will fully engage the beltStrida Manual Part 7 7. Bottom Tube Assembly The bottom tube assembly must be removed completely for the following operations - Q To change the bottom tube. Q To change the rear end cap. Q To change the front joint bush (makes this task easier). Changing the belt, dismantling the bottom bracket assembly and the crank/pulley assembly, can all be done with the bottom tube in position. 7.1 Removing and Dismantling Bottom Tube 1. Disconnect the belt from the front pulley. 2. Remove the M8 x 16 button head socket screw attaching the bottom tube to the rear joint. Remove the spring washers. 3. Disconnect the front end of the bottom tube from the front joint casting (as when closing the bike) and pull the rear of the bottom tube off the axle and away from the rear joint. The bottom tube is now disconnected. The remaining front and seat tubes may be clipped together for safe keeping. 4. There is no reason to remove the front joint bush moulding unless it is cracked or damaged. If it is removed it must be replaced with a new part. To remove the front joint bush: i) If the moulding is intact unscrew the five No. 6 x 5/8" coun- tersink pozi-head self-tapping screws (Earlier models have three screws) then tap out the moulding with a suitable rod in the steering pin hole as shown in Diagram 17. ii) If the moulding is damaged so that the steering pin hole cannot be used to withdraw it, the moulding will have to be broken up inside the tube to remove it after removing the screws. This is best done as shown in the following diagrams 18 and 19. ( Remove any remaining splinters of plastic from the tube but do not remove the adhesive which is stuck to the inside of the tube as this will provide a key for the new moulding.) 39Strida Manual Part 7 10mm. rod Diagram 17 End on view (Chisel through the damaged Imoulding here to split the Imoulding into two halves. Diagram 18 (Colapse the two Falves 6 Ithe moulding together into the tube with large pliers and then pull, Diagram 19 5. If the rear end cap moulding has to be removed it must be replaced with a new part. To remove it drill a hole into its end and screw in a suitable self-tapping screw to provide grip. Then withdraw the moulding with pliers or a vice. 40‘Strida Manual Part 7 6. To dismantle the bottom bracket assembly the crank/pulley has to be removed. This is done by unscrewing the pedals and removing the crank end cap moulding from the L.H. crank. Unscrew the bottom bracket lock nut (L.H. thread, so clockwise). Use a 29mm or 33mm spanner or a large adjustable spanner. Remove tab washer and unscrew bottom bracket bearing cone (L. H, thread) 7. The crank/pulley assembly is now free to be lifted out by threading through the bottom bracket castings. Remove the caged ball bearings. (Put them on a clean surface to avoid picking up grit) 8. The bottom bracket castings are removed by unscrewing the two MB x 40 socket head screws from the L.H. casting (using 6mm Long series Allen key) and removing the two M8 Nylock nuts from the R.H. casting. Prise apart the castings near the bearing mounting holes and remove the castings. 9. The bottom bracket bearing cups can be tapped out of the cast- ing with a soft hammer. 10. If any of the spirol pins in the bottom tube are damaged or loose replace them with new ones. The two vertical pins (4mm x 50mm HBT) stick up by 3mm above the top of the tube. The two horizontal pins (5/32" x 1 5/8" HBT) fit flush with the edge of the tube on alternate sides. 1, Remove circlip from belt tensioner wire and remove wire from tube. 12. If the freewheel back plate is loose and there is too much play in the freewheel: with the crank assembly out of the bottom bracket the freewheel backplate can be tightened (L.H. thread, so anti-clockwise). Make it very tight with a key or a hammer and punch. 13, The pulley is removed from the crank assembly by unscrewing the six M5 x 15 button head socket screws (using a 3mm Allen key). The pulley, clamping ring and crank assembly can then be separated to expose the freewheel. Push out the six MS Nylock nuts from the pulley if the pulley is to be renewed. 14, The freewheel may be removed from the crank assembly using one of two approaches, or a combination of both. (This is a 41Strida Manual Part 7 difficult operation as the threads are very tight): i) with the crank securely mounted in a soft-jawed vice unscrew (anti-clockwise) the freewheel from behind using a suitable freewheel removal tool or a drift and a hammer. ii) Using a 32mm (1 1/4") spanner, or vice jaws, unscrew the inner freewheel spacer by its flats. Avoid crushing this part. This will allow the freewheel to be unscrewed. Separate the freewheel, inner freewheel spacer and the crank. 15. If necessary, remove the outer freewheel spacer from the crank with a 38mm (1 1/2") spanner. 7.2 Rebuilding and Refitting Bottom Tube Assembly L.If a new bottom tube is to be fitted it normally comes with the spirol pins fitted. If not, fit as described in Section 10 above. 2. Refit rear end cap moulding with a flat positioned to be next to the rear joint casting. Gently tap into the tube with a soft hammer and align two 12mm diameter holes. 3. If a new front joint bush is being fitted to an existing bot- tom tube it can be fitted without using any more adhe- sive as it will key into the adhesive still attached to the inside of the tube. However, for additional rigidity, or if a new tube is being used, apply a high quality epoxy adhesive (c.g. Permabond E32) to both the inside of the tube and to the mating surfaces of the front joint bush moulding so that the adhesive keys into the moulding. 4. With the front joint bush in position screw in the top No. 6 x 5/8" countersink pozi-head, type-B self-tapping screw. If the tube is not new, drill four holes squarely into the moulding with a 2.5 mm diameter drill through the countersink holes in the tube. If the tube is new or there are not four countersink holes in the tube drill and countersink as shown in Diagram 20 screw in the remaining four screws to secure the front joint bush in situ. 42Diagram 20 5. Re-fit the belt tensioner wire to the bottom tube using a new cir- clip. Make sure the circlip is fully engaged in the slot. 6. If using new bottom bracket bracket castings tap two 4mm x 10 MBT spirol pins into one casting (or one into each casting) to align the bearing bores. 7. Tap the bottom bracket bearing cups into the castings. These should be a tight fit. If they are a loose fit use “Bearing Fit” adhe- sive (e.g. Permabond A134). Make sure the bearing cups are fully seated. 8. Now re-assemble the bottom bracket castings on to the tube. Align them together vertically on the tube with the spirol pins in the slots in the rear-most position. Check that the belt tensioner wire is in the slot as it comes out from between the castings. Press the castings together to engage the 4mm x 10 spirol pins. 9. Put in the two M8 x 40 socket head screws and Nylock nuts with the nuts on the pulley side. Using the 6mm Allen key tight- en these up fully in order, to seat the castings down. 10. Put a 4mm “C" form washer on to the end of the belt tensioner wire and screw on the M4 Nylock nut. Do not tighten it at this stage. 11, To mount the pulley on the freewheel press six M5 Nylock nuts into the back of the pulley, with the nylon rings on the outside. 43‘Strida Manual Part 7 Lay the freewheel into the moulded teeth in the pulley. Check that it is in the right way round with removal pegs on the inside of the pulley. Put on the steel clamping ring and screw it down with six MS x 15 button head socket screws, using a 3mm Allen key. The screws should be gradually screwed down in the order shown in Diagram 21. This is to avoid warping the pulley. Screw down tightly, Spin the pulley and watch for run-out at the rim to check that it is not warped. (Up to Imm is acceptable). If the pulley is warped slacken off all six screws and re-tighten them in order again. Diagram 21 12. Screw the outer freewheel spacer on to the crank and make it as tight as possible with a 38mm (1 1/2") spanner. 13, Screw the inner freewheel spacer on to the outer freewheel spacer (on the crank) and make it as tight as possible using a 32mm (1 1/4") spanner or vice jaws. There should be a small gap(<0.5mm) between the inner and outer freewheel spacers when these are fully screwed together 14, Screw the freewheel (with pulley attached) on to the inner freewheel spacer. Take care not to cross the threads. The free- wheel will go on easily by hand. Tighten freewheel down as tight as possible. 15. Grease the bottom bracket bearings and cups with waterproof grease. Put a set of caged balls into the R.H. bearing cup with the cage on the outside.‘Strida Manual Part 7 16. Assemble the pulley/crank assembly through the bottom bracket castings, and into position. Check that the bearings are correctly seated by looking through from the L.H. side. 17, Put the other set of caged balls into position in the L.H. bearing cup, with the cage on the outside. 18. Screw on the bottom bracket bearing cone (L.H. thread, so anti- clockwise). Put on the tab washer and locknut. Adjust bearing as in Section 2.10. 19. Put crank end cap on to L.H.crank and screw on both pedals. 20. Use Vaseline to grease the steering pin, rear axle extension and tear joint contact face with bottom tube, also on to the bottom tube where the spring washers fit. 21, Thread the belt into position and assemble bottom tube on to tear axle extension. Tap down with a soft head hammer. Connect front joint bush on to the front joint. 22. Put back the 23mm O.D, x 12mm I.D. spring washers (disc springs) as shown in Diagram 22 with the thicker washer on the outside. Adjust the thickness if necessary to get the right friction between the bottom tube and the rear joint (See Section 2.17) Diagram 22 45‘Strida Manual Part 7 23. Check the action of the front joint bush on the front joint and adjust if necessary. (See Section 2.15). 24, Attach the belt to the front pulley and turn the cranks forward to engage the belt 25. Adjust the belt tension. (See Section 2.11). 46‘Strida Manual: Parts List Fasteners, ete. trida No.| Qv|Description Where used IB FAS 01 [2 [Spirol pin 5/32 x 1 5/8” HBT .......Bottom tube (horizontally) |B FAS 02] 3 |Spirol pin 4mm x SOmm HBT......Bottom tube (vertically) & seat tube [B FAS 03 | 3 |Spirol pin 4mm x 10mmMBT......,Bottom bracket castings & seat tube IB FAS 04 | 4 |3/4" radius washer... Carrier (not used on plastic carrier) |B FAS 05} 2 |M5x25 socket head cap screw......Front joint IB FAS 06] 1 |M5x30 socket head cap screw .....Top joint lB FAS 07| 2 |M8x40 socket head cap screw......Bottom bracket casting |B FAS 08 | 7 |Msx15 button hd. socket screw...Front pulley & front brake |B FAS 09 | 2 |M8x16 button hd. socket screw...Front & rear axles |B FAS 10] 1 |M6x90* socket head cap screw ...Carrier (*plastic carrier:M6 x 65) IB FAS 11] 2 |M6x30 socket head cap screw ...Seat mounting [BAS 12] 1 |M4 Nylock nut.. Belt tensioner wire IB FAS 13 9 [MS Nylock nut Front pulley, top joint & front joint IB FAS 14] 3 [M8 Nylock nut Bottom bracket castings & saddle IB FAS 15] 1 |M6 lock nut...... Carrier (plastic carrier: M6 nut) IB FAS 16] 1 [M16 lock nut...... ‘Front axle [B FAS 18| 3 |4mm Form 'C’ washer... Mudguards & belt tensioner wire IB FAS 19] 1 [4mm circlip or Salterfix. Belt tensioner wire IB FAS 20] 4 |No 6 x1/2" pozi-flange head self-tapping screw. Mudguards IB FAS 21| 5 |No 6 x 1/2” pozi-pan head self-tapping screw... Top joint & handlebar assembly IB FAS 22] 1 [M6 x 10 pozi-pan screw .........Rear brake (later deleted) IB FAS 23] 1 [M8 x 65 bolt Saddle IB FAS 25] 5 [No 6 x 5/8" pozi countersink, self-tapping screw, type 'B'........Front joint bush IB FAS 26 | 3 [Disc spring 23 x 12.2 x Imm.......Front axle, rear axle IB FAS 27] 1 [Disc spring 23 x 12.2 x 1.25mm...Rear axle IB FAS 28 | 1 [Disc spring 23 x 12.2 x 1.Smm.....Rear axle IB FAS 29 | 2 |Disc spring 18 x 6.2 x 0.5mm......Carrier (not used on plastic carrier) IB FAS 30] 1 |Knurled knob Carrier (not used on plastic carrier) IB FAS 31 | 6 [Reflector nut (MS).. ‘Reflector IB FAS 32] 6 |Reflector washer (M5)... Reflector |B FAS 33 | 2 |Wheel lock nut Front & rear axle IB FAS 34] 2 [Brake anchor. Front & rear brake assembly IB FAS 35 | 2 [Brake anchor nut Front & rear brake assembly IB FAS 36 | 2 [Brake anchor washer. .Front & rear brake assembly IB FAS 37] 2 [Brake adjuster. Front & rear brake assembly IB FAS 38 | 2 [Brake adjuster locknut. Front & rear brake assembly IB FAS 40] 1 |Saddle clamp nut. Brake stop cord IB FAS 41] 1 [Disc spring 23 x 12.2 x 0.8mm.....Rear axle IB FAS 42] 1 |Smm Allen key... Seat mounting IB FAS 43 | 1 |Spirol pin 5/32" x 1 1/4” HBT.....Seat tube |B BIN 05 | 2 [Brake cable wire end cover.......Brake cable [B BIN 40 | 3 |M6 thread protector Seat mounting screws & carrier [B BIN 30 | 1 Strida identification label -L.H, bottom bracket casting |B BIN 31 | 2 |Anti-scuffing label L.H, bottom bracket casting & seat tube [B BIN 43 | 1 Bell... Dutch bikes - handlebars |B PAC 10] 1 |instruction book. Handlebars [B BIN 32 | 2 |Ribbed insert Carrier (not used on plastic carrier) |B BIN 33 | 2 |Carrier foot. _Carrier (not used on plastic carrier) 47Numbers on Exploded View Strida No. . Handlebar assembly .. .B MAC 12 Front tube 'B MAC 09 Seat tube -B MAC 10 Bottom tube “B MAC 11 Saddle : z ‘-B BIN 41 Top ball joint (casting) “B CAS 02 Front joint & steering pin... : “B CAS 03 Rear joint "B CAS 01 Bottom bracket casting (2 required)... B CAS 04 Rear pulley zine diecastin, “B CAS 05 Top joint (halves) "Strida" moulding B PLA 13 (LH) B PLA 14(RH) Seat mounting moulding (halves) j.r0sn---B PLA 05 (LH) B PLA 06 (RH) Front joint bush moulding sx... B PLA 12 Front pulley mounting... B PLA 07 Front end cap B PLA 09 Rear end cap B PLA 08 Hub cover (front) « ‘B PLA 03 Hub clip ring assembly(rear)... B PLA 04 Crank end cap (LH crank only) . B PLA 10 Brake cord stop & cord (2 required ‘B PLA 11 & B BIN 29 Mudguards (Universal, front & rear). -B PLA O1 Reflector mounting block (wheel) B PLA 02 Top ball (insert) -B MAC 01 Steering pin (insert) « “B MAC 02 Front axle ‘B MAC 03 Rear axle. B MAC 04 Free wheel B MACOS(inner)BMACO6(outer) Belt tensioning wir: B MAC 07 Front pulley clamping ring Carrier/rack assembly... Brake levers (2 required)... Front brake cable Rear brake cable snr Hand grip (2 required) Handgrip end plug... Saddle mounting clamps (2 required)... FAS 39 Norma seat mounting clamps (2 requir BIN 01 Rear brake assembly (smaller diameter)....B BIN 25 Front wheel (with brake drum) .. B BIN 23 Rear wheel . B BIN 24 Front brake assembly (larger diameter) ......B BIN 20 Cone, wheel bearings (2 required) B BIN 27 Cup wheel bearing (4 required) .emnun “-B BIN 26 Wheel bearings caged(4 required). B BIN 28 Wheel, lock nut (2 required) . B FAS 33 Freewheel B BIN 06 B MAC 08 MAC 13 BIN 16 BIN 03 B BIN 04 BIN 21 -B BIN 22 Bottom bra ear 4 BIN 07 Bottom bracket bearings caged (2 required)-B BIN 11 Bottom bracket bearing cone B BIN 10 Bottom bracket tab washer B BIN 08 Bottom bracket lock nut .. B BIN 09 Crank (one piece) scones BIN 19 Pedals, pair, 1/2” thread sonsronnon ‘ooeB BIN 02 Belt.. Tyre 16 x 1.15, white or reflective wall Inner tube, Schrader valve & cap .. White reflector (1 front & 4 wheel) .. B BIN 15 B BIN 12, B BIN 13 & B BIN 14 “B BIN 17 [German (spoke) B BIN 44 Belgian (amber) B BIN 45 .BIN 18 Dutch (oblong) B BIN 46 58. Red reflector...