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Kashida Template
Kashida Template
Meaning
The name Kashida has been derived from Persian and meansfreeflowing cursive writing.
Types of stitches
Zalakdozo : It is a chain stitch done with hook in long and
flowing designs.
Vata Chikan : Buttonhole stitch used only in thick fillings
seen in landscapes,garden and crowded scene.
Doria : Open work done on all type of fabrics.
Talaibar : Gold work done on brocades and silks.
Jaal : All over embroidery designs are worked in trellis
pattern.
Amli : Delicate filling in stitches in multi coloured threads in
Kari shawls.
Satin Stitch
Stem Stitch
Darning
Stitch
Chain Stitch
Herringbone
Stitch
Motifs
Nature is the biggest influence. The chinar leaf is the motif
most abundantly used along with the Cyprus tree.
Bird : Parrot, woodpecker, canary, magpie and kingfisher.
Floral : Iris, lotus, lily, tulip andsaffronflower.
Fruit : Grapes, plums, cherries, almonds and apple
blossoms.
Kalka or Badami Buta : Cone shaped mango motif
Motifs - Examples
Embroidery threads
Colors
The embroidery is comprised of wide spectrum of colors of
light and dark shades such as
White (Sufed)
Green (Zingari)
Purple (Uda)
Blue (Ferozi)
Black (Mushki)
Crimson (Gulnar)
Scarlet (Kirmiz)
Fabrics
Colours used:
The embroidery is comprised of wide spectrum of
colours of light and dark shades, such ass crimson red,
scarlet red, blue, yellow, green, purple, black & brown.
Earlier the yarns were locally dyed with indigenous
natural colours. But nowadays all the threads used in
the industry are invariably mill dyed with synthetic dye
staff.
Embroidery on shawls:
The embroidery on shawl is done at different parts like border, corner, centre,
allover scattered. They are:
Hashia: Border design, which runs all along the length of the shawl on either side.
Phala: It is done on both the ends of the article, popularly known as Pallu.
Tanjjir or Zanjir: Border with chain stitch running either above or below the Phala.
Kunj Butta: Cluster of flowers in the corner.
Butta: Generic name for the floral design.
Appliqu: Another variety of Kashmir embroidery, which is very unique done on
carpets, shawls & woolen blankets.
Tapestry work: It is done with a blunt tapestry needle, were the material is
stitched on a wooden frame with the tracing kept along its side.
Zalakdozi: Resembles crochet. Various articles are prepared by hook embroidery
and one of them is Namda, a felt carpet.
Kashmir is a melting pot of art and culture and has influenced the world of fashion since the Mughal era. Kashida embroidery is an intricate
craft that was patronized by the royals and was initiated by the local residents of Srinagar. If one sees kashida work in detail, nature has
been one of the biggest influences. The hints of gorgeous flowers and intricate impressions of petals and creepers give Kashida a wholesome
look.
What is Kashida?Kashida work consists of detailed needlework and primarily involves two styles of embroidery stitching. Single-stitch style
is commonly considered to be classic kashida work. Besides that there are many other types of stitching involved such as satin stitch, chain
stitch or knot stitch. There are many other styles as well, which make kashida a more intricate, time-consuming, yet luxurious
embroidery.These include sozi work and andari work which involve traditional motifs such as animals, birds, flowers and fruits in the threads
of gold, silver and metal. We can see extensive kashida work on shawls, suits and saris, which have motifs in multi-coloured strings.
Kashida and Contemporary Fashion: Indian fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who is known for reviving a number of Indian
embroideries, often plays with kashida in his collections. He has carved a niche for himself by bridging the gap between Indian crafts and
Western silhouettes by making palazzos, jackets, saris and sherwanis by using kashida work over khadi and net. He has even used gold
kashida work over velvet.
Another major Indian designer who plays with kashida is the Kashmir-born Rohit Bal. Last year at Indian Bridal Week, he presented a
spectacular collection called Mulmul Masquerade, which was a gorgeous tribute to kashida work. The collection consisted of saris in ebony
and ivory, lehengas and gowns loaded with beautiful kashida work in gold thread over red and navy blue velvet. Muslin blended with velvet
provided a feel of luxury. International brands such as Etro and Blumarine have also created beautiful outfits using Kashimiri kashida work.
How to Wear Kashida:As kashida is primarily very colourful, we suggest you play with separates. In summer, go for a kashida
embroidered tunic or a kurti over white linen pants or regular denims. Kashida prints are also trending, so if you do not want to sport
anything heavy yet want to look regal, try kashida printed saris and shawls. Winter is a very appropriate season to flaunt your kashidaembroidered outfits. One needs to be careful when accessorizing with kashida outfits. Play with heavy pendant silver jewellery and
neckpieces to complement the look of this embroidery. Pearls can also be a great option to enhance the beauty of the embroidery by
maintaining the ethnicity of the entire look.
Kashmiri embroidery is well known for the beauty of its colour, texture, design and technique. Probably, the best-known Indian
embroidery is the 'Kashida of Kashmir'. This embroidery is revealed in shawls and in cottage industry done by the members of
families in Srinagar. Kashmiri embroidery is practiced by men and it is essentially a commercial craft.
According to Ramala S. Dongekery, the shawl industry in Kashmir was introduced by Zain-ul-Abedin. Akbar was also responsible for
introducing a new type of shawl - the Dowshala meaning Twin shawl. In this two similar shawls were woven together, then sewn
back to back. So the under surface of the shawls were not visible. Khwaja Yusuf during his stay in Kashmir got the idea of producing
shawls with help of 'Rafoogar'. These were later known as Amli Shawls. Amli shawls were plain-woven shawls, which were
ornamented with needle wholly. The plain- woven cloth of the amli was placed smooth and flat and then rubbed with a piece of
polished agate till it becomes perfectly even.The design is drawn on paper and with needles lines are pricked through. The charcoal
powder is rubbed on the perforated holes to transfer the design on the fabric. The stitch used was the darning stitch, the thread
being made to pick up the loops of the warp thread. The technique has made the embroidery look as prepared on the loom.
The motifs were mainly taken from nature; animal and human figures were not seen in this embroidery. Bird motifs were seen on
the shawls (like parrot, woodpeckers and kingfishers). Floral motifs like lily, lotus, iris, saffron flower and tulips were mostly seen on
the shawls. Other designs like grapes, cherries, almonds and The stitches used were simple, the chief being satin stitch, stem stitch
and chain stitch. Occasionally, the darning and herringbone are used. Crewel embroidery is done with the use of hook. Kashida is
general term for Kashmir embroidery, which includes other stitches as Zalakdo (chain stitch), Vatachik (Buttonhole stitch), Talibar
(Gold work). One outstanding feature of the embroidery is the fact that it is made with a single thread giving a flat, formalized
appearance to the design. The satin stitch has been adopted to cover larger surface without pulling the cloth. It has become the
variation of long and short stitch. Chain is used only in inferior places and never on expensive piece of work. The Indian customer
sets a great store by embroidery which displays the same fineness on both sides so as to make the wrong side distinguishable from
right and Kashmiri workman has made himself adapt at this art.
This embroidery is done on silk, cotton and wool fabrics. Colourful fabrics like white (sufed), green (zingari), purple (uder), blue
(ferozi), yellow (zard) and black (mushki). The threads used were wool, cotton and silk.apples were their favourites. The chinar leaf
is considered as an important motif.
Introduction:
Kashmiri embroidery is extraordinary for the excellence of its color, surface, configuration and method. Likely, the
best-known Indian embroidery is the Kashida of Kashmir. This embroidery is uncovered in shawls and in cabin
industry done by the parts of families in Srinagar. Known to be a standout amongst the most antiquated and
customary kind of inherent workmanship, Kashida Embroidery, likewise spelled as Kasida characterizes its social
substance through the medium of dot and crochet, which has picked up greatest prominence, notoriety and
recognition in the valley of Jammu and Kashmir. Motifs like feathered creatures, leaves, trees and a lot of such
characteristic themes are recreated in this weaving with multi hued strings and dabs woven into the fabrics like
shawls, suits and saris.
Origin and History:
Kashmir carved its excellent embodiment of Kashida embroidery into the design world way back in the Mughal period
which was disparaged by the heads and the royals of that time. However in the event that we go further up along the
ways of recorded chronicles of design, it can be discovered that this art of embroidery was additionally innovatively
launched by the occupants of Srinagar. Intrinsic embroidery and quality was webbed into the finest maze of
inventiveness and development utilizing innovative patterns of colors and examples.
Style:
Single line style is the trade-mark style of Kashida Embroidery. Other than there are numerous different stitch style like
satin stitch, herringbone, stem stitch, chain stitch, knot stitch and a lot more which are additionally innovatively
executed.
3.Cinematic Influence :
Rockstar
Kashmir Ki Kali
Fitoor
4.Global Recognition :
Michelle Obama
Sonam Kapoor
Jemima Khan
Blumarine & Etro for Kashmiri embroidery
Conclusion