The cotton buyer usually selects species and grades of cotton to produce

specific yarns. If a fabric such as a part wool blanket is to be produced, the cotton
buyer will select Peruvian, China, or Indian cottons which have a harsh, rough,
woll like handle. Where extremely fine texture, silkiness and great strength are
desired, the cotton buyer may choose Sea Islan staple or Egytian Cotton.
During the past 200 years, cottons have evolved hybridization to become the
industrial cottons we know today. In the United States, they are closely related to
Sea Island cotton which came into prominence along the coast of South Carolina
and to the Egyptian type species which gained popularity of its high quality
fiber for use in the fine counts.
American grown cottons are divided into grades according to length of
staple, uniformity, strength, color, cleanliness and flexibility. These are compared
with a standard supplied by the United States Department of Agriculture. The
standard provides 6 grades above and 6 grades below the middling grade. The most
common grades are:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Strict good middling

Good middling
Strict midding
Middling
Strict low middling
Low middling
Strict good ordinary

A cotton mill often average up the various grades of cotton to produce a

fairly uniform yarn.
All normal cotton fibers have a soft creamy tint and some of the long staple
fibers like the Egyotian cotton, are some creamy in color than the Upland and the

Sea Island cotton. Cotton is never truly white and the nature of the pigment
responsible for the color is really not known.

Yarn : si
Fabric: vi
Blanket: chn, mn
Handle: cun
Texture: kt cu
Silkness: t
Sea Island staple: bng hi o
Stape: bng
Hybridization: s lai ging
Fiber: si
Count: m, tnh
Strict good middling: chnh phm trung bnh tt
Good middling: trung bnh tt
Strict middling: chnh phm trung bnh
Middling: trung bnh
Strict low middling: chnh phm trung bnh km
Low middling: trung bnh km
Strict good ordinary: chnh phm loi thng, tt
Upland cotton: bng vng cao
Pigment: cht nhum mu

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Species and grades of cotton: ging v phm cp bng vi

Specific yarns: si c bit
Part wool blanket: vi pha len
Harsh, rough wool like handle: th rp, c cun ging nh len
Fine structure: kt cu vi mn
To become the industrial cottons: tr thnh th bng cng nghip

7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.

South Carolina (North Carolina): Pha Nam Carolina

Fine count: hng cao cp
United States Department of Agriculture: B Nng Nghip Hoa K
6 grades above and 6 grades below the middling grade: 6 phm cp trn
v 6 phm cp di phm cp trung bnh
Soft creamy tint: mu kem nht
Long staple fibers: nhng si bng di
Pigment responsible for the color: sc t gy ra mu
Color, fiber: mu sc, si

1. What factors should be taken into account when choosing cotton species
and grades?
2. What are the main consideratrions in working out the cotton grades in
USA?
3. Give several famous cotton species you know in the world.
4. Write a paper in at least 500 words to say something about the cotton.

Nhng ngi mua bng vi thng la chn nhng ging v phm cp bng
vi sn xut nhng th si c bit. Nu cn sn xut mt thc vi nh vi pha
len lm chn, ngi mua bng s chn bng Peru, Trung Quc, hay n l
nhng th bng th rp, c cun ging nh len.Khi cn c kt cu vi mn, ging
nh t v c sc bn cao, th ngi mua bng c th chn sn phm Sea Island hay
bng n .
Trong sut 200 nm qua, bng vi c tin ha nh s lai ging tr
thnh th bng cng nghip nh t bit ngy nay. M, cc th bng vi c quan
h gn gi vi ging bng Hi o (Sea Island) l ging bng ni tri dc ven
bin Nam Calorina v Ai Cp nhng ging ca loi bng ny ni ting vi si
bng c cht lng cao c s dng trong loi hng cao cp.
Bng vi trng M c chia thnh 4 phm cp theo chiu di ca x
bng nguyn liu, ng nht, sc bn, ma sc, sch v tnh n hi. Nhng

tnh cht ny c so snh vi mt tiu chun ca B Nng Nghip Hoa K ban

hnh. Tiu chun ny cung cp 6 phm cp trn v 6 phm cp di phm cp
trung bnh (middling grade). Nhng phm cp thng dng nht l
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Chnh phm trung bnh tt (strict good middling)

Trung bnh tt (good middling)
Chnh phm trung bnh (strict middling)
Trung bnh (middling)
Trung bnh km (low middling)
Chnh phm loi thng, tt (strict good middling)

Mt nh my ko si bng thng trn nhiu phm cp bng khc nhau

sn xut mt th si kh ng nht.
Tt c x bng bnh thng u c mu kem nht v mt s ging x di
nh bng Ai cp, x bng c mu kem sm hn so vi nhng ging bng vng cao
(Upland) v bng Hi o ( Sea Island). Bng khng bao gi trng tinh v sc tt
gy ra mu ca bng vi vn cha c bit r.