Coffee Table » Jewelry Box » Three-way Miters © Table Saw Outfeed Roller * Crosscutting Tips nr Ovtices HeleWoodsmith No, 112 August, 1997 Publisher Donald B.Pesehke Faitor Terry). Srohman Associate Editors Jon Garvison Vineent Ancona ArtDirector Todd Lambeth Senior Mustrators David kreving Dirk Ver Steg Graphic Designer Mike Mittermeer ‘CREATIVE RESOURCES tin Dict Ree Pret ofr Hc © Sine igre Wash «Poet Dabo Ted ‘i feet tke Su nar Se rt Cnn less ene nk + SePinepnter Comte BOOKS ‘Beater Das. Hs At Deter i ernie + Sony GrophieDaxgaor Cet Clea ‘CIRCULATION wees Dc Sn ns bens Dt Ghia Baths © Reed | vec “iat Ken eed rr Det Soa eat WOODSMITH MAIL ORDER Oper Dincor Bakers Natriak gr Nan Mati * Cte Si Mg Jani as Moose Spe Nancy Jahson« Hier Hada Joes «Techeal Seroce fh Mats Teton «Opor dene? Tarmy Ald» Taam ander: Kara Blages » Cut. Ser fis: Ana Con, Marge Pers, Tary Truckeabrod, Nancy Dower, ‘Manis Der eh Harber WOODSMITH STORE Manager Dave Laon «Aste Manager Schaciber * Sats Saf Pat Lewy Jevone Hert Weadet Sans, Jin Barnet, Kathy Sth. Join Jobnsoa © Offce Masago Vii Sewn eee eee, Seca, ees eee FeSeee dca tinh ee, Gi Nad, 20 Box 2. Don Prinecin USA SAWDUST see if the finish had dried on the Jewelry box that’s featured on page 14. AS [opened the shop door, I noticed someone huddled over the project examining itclosely ‘When he turned around, I real: ized it was Don. (He's the founder and publsher of Woodmith) So T asked him what he thought of the Jewelry box. At first, all he said was, “T want to build one of these!” But when I asked him why, he mea- tioned a couple of things. “The frst thing he mentioned was it paced alot of woodworking in a compact package, TROWMOES. Well is truc Ths ow elry box does provide a perfect ‘opporturity to ty your hand at di ferent woodworking techniques. To ‘start with, the top and bottom panel of the box are veneered, And the corners of the box are joined together with splined miter. But what really sets this project apart is the small strips of walnut that contrast with the mahowany panel. These pieces come together fo form a corner that requires a spe ial type of joint —a three-way miter. Now, if three-way miter sounds abit complicated, dont worry. We've inchided an article beginning on rere 20 that takes you through the process — one step at a time. fRECSE Fit. Another thing that inugued Don about this jewelry box Woodsmith wwas the precise ft of all the smal pieces. And since a portion of the Joinery is always exposed (whether the lid is open or closed), getting 2 perfect fitis especially important. To sme, that's the most challenging (and satitving) part of building « small project ice this. However, geting aperfetfitisn't as citficult ag it sounds. The secretis simple enough —test pieces. Now using test pieces is" really anything new. We co it all the time. But since the box is fairly smal, you have the hoxury of being able to make as many test pioces as you reed until you're satisfied with the fit And tha’ just what we di, We used tes pieces for everything from ‘iting the threeway miters. to installing the id hardware umor. Finally, if you prefer fine cigars to fine jewery, weve included plans for converting the jewelry box into a cigar humidor. For more on how todo this, refer to page 19. RP WANTED. We're looking for a fulltime art director to help develop and produce our woodworking books. Ideally, this person should Ihave considerable graphic design experience with special concern for details. Also, “how-to” book pub: lishing experience would be a plus. Ifyou'e interested, send a cover letter and resume to B.A. Moore, August Home Pubbshing, 2200 Grand Ave,, Des Moines, 1850312 No. 12CONTENTS Features Coffee Table “This coffee table features a heveled-lass top and traitional mor- tise and tenon jomery. And we've come up with a quick way of ‘making the montises for the spindles on the ends ofthe table, Jewelry Box ........ ened Veneer mahogany panels and applied walnut eng aes couple ofthe woodworking techniques you'l hove a chance to use when building this jewelry box. Humidor . 219 With only a few minor riocifations: fe Giers boven ie Hue as a classic cigar humidor. All it takes is some Spanish cedar and a few pieces of specialry hardware. Three-way Miters a -20 Despite their appearance, three-way miters arent all chat difficult Our step-by-step technique article takes you through the process {from start to finish — without cutting any comers Crosscutting Tips 24 ‘There's more to accurate crosscutting on the table saw than just pushing a board past a blade. Here we share some of our javorite tips that we've come across over the Years, Table Saw Outfeed Roller 28 This adjusteble ouafeed roller attaches directly to the wings of the table seaw. So you won't have to jockey it around the shop every time you move your saw Tips & Techniques .. Shop Notes .. Reader's Jig Z a z MaNKING SOP secs coe. acces erase Sources.. Table Saw Outfeed Roller pce 28 No, 112 Woodsmrith .boo sian) WOODWORKERS Miter Saw Workstation [like my power miter saw {orits portability —Tuseit for everything from trim- ‘ming molding for furniture projects to cutting ets. But I've never been happy with the small table of the saw, It doesn't pro- vide much support for cut ling longer pieces So Tbuilt a portable workstation for thesaw that doubles as'an extension table, ee photo. ‘Tome the workstation, I started with a plywood | Sanding Table Window Shade Tye found thatwhen sand- ing smaller pieces, the vac- ‘uum on my sanding table doesnt create enough suc- tion t pullthedustthrough thehholes in the table. To solve this problem, I ‘mounted a retracting win- dow shade to oneend ofmy sanding table, sec Fig. 1. ‘base, [sized the base to ft the depth of my saw, but I made it about 16" longer than the width of the saw. (This extralength provides space for the extensions.) ‘The extensions are just ‘Ushaped channelsthat get screwed down to the base to forma “box” on each side ofthe saw. ‘The tops of the exten: sionsare made of thick plywood, while the sides are solid hardwood, see detal'z below. Tp determine the width ‘oftheside pieces, measure the height of the table on Pulling the shade over the part ofthe table Im not using reduces the surface area andinercases suction, The suction from the table holds the shade in place. When Im finishes I justretract the shade, Doug Weruhaler Rochester, New Vink Woodsmith your miter sav. Then sub- tract the thickness of the plywood you're using for the tops. When the exten- sions are added tothe hase, the tops should be flush with the table ofthe saw. Before screwing all the — 7 pieces together, I made « ‘couple hand cutouts to lft the say, see detail’b. With my saw screwed down to the base, Ican carry the ‘whole unit from job to job. Rod Swati Plano, TexasBelt San ‘When sanding the edge of a wide workpiece on my ‘stationary belt sander, too often I wind up with an ‘edge that's citherrounded or out of square, ‘To keep the stock square to the sanding belt, | attached afenceto these of my sander. just an- shaped piece of plywood that’s screwed toacouple of support arms, See Fig. ‘To attach the fenceto my Pop-Up Lid recently made a toolbox vith a shallow, hinged lid thatisheld closed with snap Fence Extension belt sander, I drilled and tapped some icles on the backside ofthe sanderand then bolted the arms in place. Note: You may have ition the fence at a 0" angle to the sanding belt. Now to get a square edge, Ljust hold my work piece against the fence as sun itover the sander, BobKeland Se John's, Newfesendond catches Butbecansethere {snitany lipon the lid, Fhave ahard dime getting my fie sgersunilerneath the Ed to open. So to make it ‘easier to lift the lid after undoing the catches, I installed a couple of springeloaded Lulletcatches on ‘Trying tobrushafinish ‘on dowels can beareal ‘chore. Notonly sitiime ‘consuming, butit’s easy to miissa spot, too. To make the job goa bit quicker, I taped 2 couple foam brushes ‘tngether, se photo, ‘Nowall fhaveto dois ‘run the brushes down cone side of the dowel and then the other, and Tm done, Wiliam Robdove, J: ‘Theron, Rode Bland ‘CONTACT CEMENT use contact cementon ‘a regular basis in my shop. But instead of uusinganew brush every lime I need to apply. someadhesive, [put my brush in an enipty can when 'm finished. Then before putting thelid onthe can, pour No. 112 fnasmallamountofcon- tact cement. The fumes ‘om the contact cement keep the brush from ddrying out, This way, I ‘can use the brush over anid over before having tothrowit out. Badger Momsen Hor Springs, Arkansas === De i | 71 yl te rte drilled a hole with a shal ow counterbore for each ‘catch 50 the ip ofthecatch, ‘would sit flash, see Fig. L ‘Theeatchespop the ld of the box up about an 1" or so— just enough the get ‘my fingertips under the id itup. Fred Shoulders Ajo, Arena Stubby Screwdriver Recently, needed to drive ascrewin asmalleompar- ‘ment ofa project Iwas mak ing. couldn'findasubby screwdriver that would fi, ‘sol made my own. I just drilled a shallow hole in the end of a short section of dowel. Then I epoxied a power driver bit into the bole, see detail 'a. James Brookes Si. Ana, Mis ALT eC ay Ifyou would like to sharean original shoptested tip, send it to: Woodemith, Tips and Techniques, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, lowa 50312, Orifits exs: jer, FAX it to us at: 515-282-6741, Oruse our Maik ‘woodsmith @woodsmnith, com ‘fpublished, you'll receive $30 10150, depending. ‘on the published length, Include a brierexplanation and sketch or photo, And dor’ worry, we'll rewrite the dip and redraw the ar, ifnecessary. Alco, please ‘include daysime phone number.Ba evleh PROJECT COFFEE TABLE Quarter-sawn oak, mortise-and-tenon jomery, and a beveled glass top make this coffee table a welcome addition to any home. aside from investing in an expensive only solution Fcould come up within. ‘square up the mortise with a chisel. ‘Now, ifyou're only talking about a fact, its kind of relaxing. But when it came to the spindles on the ends of this coffee table (see photo), that’s a the table, which means. total of fifty- Insteal ofa quiet hour or two, you could spend the better part ofa day on this part ofthe project alone Fortunately, wecame up wilh adit ferent procedure to make the mor- tisesboth quickly and zecuratey (1 ‘give you a hint — it doesat involve using a drill pressore chs! referto detail ‘on page 7.) ‘USS Tr. But the mortises aren't the only feature of this table worth mentioning, The beveled glass topis also alittle out of the ordinary. Nowatfirs, Iwas worried thatthe beveled glass would look too “mod en” for this sve of table. But actu ally, itcomplements the style by giv- Woodsmith ing you a clear view of the spindles from just about any angle. However, if you prefer the look of solid wood top, we'veincluded that as an option, see the box on page 13 SOFATARLE One more thing. If this table locks sighity familiar, you bave ‘agood memory. It matches the sofa fable that we built back in issue 104, (that’s it in the background of the photo) Both are made out of quar ter-sawnwhite oak and have the same design on the end frames. (i you would like to build the ‘matching sofa table but don't have @ ‘copy ofissue 104, you can stil order ‘one, see Sources on page 35.) No.112~ OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 30°W x 38°L x 17° ‘For optena soli sed {peor page Ini faces vorive asia sop mote y morte st morte stp Bir teni Sa, ibaa fecdetaiho uinainortss eopoge 2 MATERIALS CUTTING DIAGRAM A Leas (4) 1x 1%- 16%4 ak 2.784.) B Upper End Railb(2) Ax 2-24 See LA, € Lower End Rail 2) %4x3-28% Shi" 6€ Quarters Wie Oak 921 Ba Fe) D Mortse Strios 4) Yx%- 24% se a —— Eee Gee Be Un 3-72" Quarterwn White Ook (1.75 sq.ft) __P- OSE Ty eas lee: SSS SS G stretchers (@) 7AnK2- 32% se sabe aE WADE ESET H Shelf) x22-32 Se ee ee tey 1 Frame Fr/Bk 2) Ax3h-38 1. Frame Sides @) Wx3h- 30 e572 ‘SUPPLIES @ | + (ry Beveled Glass % - 24 x32 + (6)#8x 14" Fi wcodscews - + (18)#8.x2" Fhwcodscrews eT erent Bore OB (208 TE) — No. Hz Woosismith ase End Frames Broken dowmint its basic pars, the ‘coffee table is nothing more than a couple of end frames joined by a top andashelf And each endframe con- {ains a psirof legs, pair ofend rae, anc arow ofspindies. | started build ing these frames by making the legs. 6s. The legs (A) berin as four scuared-up blanks cut rom 194!4hick stock, see drawing aright. After cat ting the leg blanks to length, I aid cut the mortises fr the rails on cach Taper leg, see drawing and detail’. You can't go wrong laying ->_ out the twomortisesat the top * ofeach leg —they're on adler centfaces. Butwhen faving out the single lower mortise on cach leg, pay close attention to ‘ho orientation ofthe legs. The right and leftlegs of each frame are mirror mages of one another, see drawing cane detail at ight ‘To make the mortises, [removed most ofthe waste by drilling arow of ‘overlapping holes on 2 drill press. ‘Then using a chisel, Tcleaned up the sides othe mortises, But another method you might ‘want to try is routing the mortises ‘with a plunge router and a mortising fig, see page 2. Once the mortises are complete, the legs are ready to be tapered and shaped. A table saw and a simple tapering ig makes quick work ofcut- fing the tapers on the inside faces af cach leg, see Fig. 1. The tapering jig used is nothing more thanapieve of plywood with @ hardwood cleat attached to one end, see drawing in marginal left. ae After cuting the tapers, routed a chamfer on the inside corner of each log on a router table, see Fig. 2. But dont try tochamfer the tapered edge. Instead, just push the leg straight through the router tabie—the chant- {fer will narrow to a point atthe bottom of the leg, sce detail ‘a above, ‘When itcame to the three outside ‘corners of the leg, I wanted a softer ook. So instead ofa chamfer, I rout- ‘ed Yi" roundovers onthe edges, agin ‘sng the router table, ee drawing. Finally, to prevent the legs from splintering in the event the table is dragged across the floor, I rounded cover the bottom edges of each lex lightly with sandpaper. ‘At tis point, I put the legs aside and began work on the other parts oftheend ames Thenextstepisto make the end rails that connect the Jegs Thea ate, spindles wile add. between these rails. {NO RUNS. Lut the upper and tomer end rails (B, © to size irom 3. thick sek frst Alltherailsare2174" Jong, The ony difference isthe lower rails are an inch wider than the upper Tals, se drawing attop of page’. The next step is to make the mor tives for the spindles, But instead of NOTE: Cit taper tine cee Woodsmith No. 112driling a hole for each mortise and squaring it up with a chise!, [used a slightly different approach, ORTIS TRIS. First I cut a groove ‘on one erlge of each rail, see Fig. 3a ‘Then ghiedinanarrow sinp of wood with 2 row of notches, see Figs. 3 and 30. once these morse sips D) |B are glued intothe grooves, henoich- ‘es become mortises, For more on this technique, see page 23. ‘UOTE: Mortse TENOKS. Alter gluing the mortise sear ioe stripsintotherailsand sanding them ee flush, enons cane cut on the ends ofthe rails to fitthe mortisesin the NOTECyt19 Jegs, see Figs, 4, 4a, and 4b. morase sp, ‘Shop Note: The ends ofthe mortise strips become part ofthe tenons of the rails, see Fig. 4b. This is why the tenonsare cut fer the mortise strips are glued in place. ‘MG. Nowthere are only couple of stepsleftto finish up te ras, Onthe lower rails, I cut a gentle are along: the boitom edge, see Fig. 5. To lay. outthis arc, Lusedapencil, a flexible straightedge, and a couple of blocks of wood, see photo below. Touttheareson thelower ras with ‘band saw and then sanded them smooth with a drum sander But you ul also use a Sabre se and then sand them smooth by hand using a rounded sanding block. To complete the upper rails, 1 Arilled a couple of counterbored shank holes in each rail see Fig. 5. ‘These are forte screws that wil be ‘sed tofastenthe top later The shank holes are slightly oversize (/s'-dia.) to allow root for wood movement (especially if you're planning to build the solid wood top). B Dill er hole 3% trom eecherd Stipe A To lect straightedge and lay out the arcs, clamp a couple of poineed scraps wo the ends of the rail. No. 112 Woodsmith 8Note sondtes End Frames covrNuc Inoendrais Poe ‘The rails and legs are the main com- \ ponents ofthe end frames, But the stiles are what catch your eye SPINDUIS, Malsing the twenty-six spindles (E) for the table isn't difi- cult —ustalitie repetitive, The spin dle are frst ct to size rom Y2hike stock, see drawing in margin at lef the sme on each spindle, used a stop block clamped to my miter gauge fence, see Fig 6a. nee the spindles are completed, You might think the next step is t0 slaeupthe end frames Norval, this would be the case, but with this pr- ject, I did things alte diferently | ye ee ey each spindle are cutwitha table saw © | and dado blac, roiting each piecea Ear | Ty quarter turn beeen passes, see Fig. 6. And to keep the shoulders cen lets are ptached and the shoulderto-choulder distance soe ae eee “E7] ee Because the epindles are so nar- row and spaced so closely, decided to stain them sll before assembly. I | also atzined the end rail, This way, 1 didn't have to worry about trying to ‘work the sain in around the spindles alte the table was assembled ‘Then glued and clampedthe es These dea'sare nothing ivore than ASSINBY. Don'tworry abouttrying tothe ras, see Fig.7. Not having to two narrow stips of 9/"4hick stock. | toassembleallthe spindles between worry about the spinilles makes the Before attaching the cleats to the | | the end rails before the glue setsup. gluing up process alot easier. nd frames, [drilled three Yie!-dia | ‘Thespindls aren’ glued inplace— GEMS. After assembling the end countersunk shank: holes in each cleat | they're captured between the rails. frames, there's still one mere piece for the screws that will be used to | Tused a two-step procedure 10 todd to each irame—a lest. _aftach the shelf, see Figs. 8 and th. . u assernble the end frames. Fist, [fit Aclest (F)isattackedto thelower Then simply glued and screwed the . the spindles between the rails and end rail of each frame t support a cleatsto the inskle ofthe ower rll, somour hild themin place with bandclamps. shelf, see drawing above and Fig.8, see Figs. Sand 83, Fadinpen ‘ais beacon eos Fish on ton 10 Woodsmith No. 112Stretchers & Shelf With the end frames completed, youire more than halfway home All that remains isto join the two end frames with a couple of stretchers andashelt, and then add atop. [made the stretchers first s0 that I could assemble the base of the table and take measurements for the shelf, see drawing at right. STREIHES. Each stretcher (G) is cut to size from a piece of 4/;!thick stock. Then a tenon is cut on each ‘end to match the mortises inthe legs ofthe table, see letai‘a' at right. Like the upper end rails, each stretcher is dried and countertored for three screws that will be used to attach the top, see detail’ ‘SHBLE Aside from providing a place for books or magazines, the shelf serves another purpose. It acts as a lower stretcher hepingto tethe base ote table together. made the shelf (H) froman over- sized, glued-up panel of /4"-thick ‘stock. Shop Note: If you're planning on building a solid wood top for the table (ee box. on page 13) you may ‘ako want to ghieup a panel forthe top at tis time. After gluing up the panel, [ripped the shelf to its finished width (22"), see Fig. 10. In orderto determine the ‘exact Iength, I measured the distance between the upper end rails (2" in my case). Then I trimmed the ends of theshelfto match this measurement ‘Before attaching the shel, I took the time to break the sharp edges by routing-a small (//s") chamfer along the front and back edges (both top and bottom), see Fig. 10a. (Note: The ends of the shelfare not chamfered.) ‘Toattachthe shel, [placed itonthe cleats and centered it from front to back Then, using.apair of clamps to pall the end frames tight against the tends of the shelf, I drove serews up through the cleats into the hottom of the shelf, see Figs. 11 and La. No. 112 uTop ‘The top of the cofee table is some thing lke a picture in a frame — a really big frame. Butthe “picture” in this caseis apiece of heveled glass. BEVELED GIAS. you've never worked with beveled glass before, there are acouple things you should know. First off the piece of glass I used is fairly large (/thick and 24" x 32"). So cdontt expect to simply run down to ‘your lest hardware store and find it in stock. [had to special order the sass froma glass shop here in Des Moines, and it took @ week to fill the | ‘onder‘Try looking inthe yellow pages to find a ghss shop in your area, Another important thing to know about ordering glass is thatthe final measurements arent always exact. Because of the cutting and polishing process, the glass can vary as much as 14" from what you specify when you orderit. But this isn'ta problem aslong.as you obian the glass before ‘youcutthe top frame pievesto length. The frame front/back (I) and frame sides @) are cut from 34. thick stock. They can beripped ton. {shed width (3'4"), butdon'tout them ‘olenat just yet They willbe mitered ! tolengih alittle later. Before mitering the frame pieces, eut a rabbet on one edge of each piece, see Figs. 12 and 12a. This rab- | bet creates a ledge for the glass top ' to rest on. Shop Note: The rabbet | hod be deep enough so the beveled ecige of the glass will sit fush with i the to surface ofthe frame ("in ny ease), see detail‘ above right, ‘Then tokeep the outside edges of the top from looking too thice and heavy, I beveled the underside of ere 13a, I di this by rnning the pieces through the table saw on edge and then sanding off the saw marks, i After rabbeting and beveling the frame picces, they can be mitered to Jength to fit the beveled glass, seo Fig. 14. Shop Note: To avoid making the opening for the gliss too tight, aliowa ite extra (ie) when figur- | ing the length ofthe frame pieces. StUNES. To strengthen the miter joints Tadded splines. But the splines | serve another purpose as well Theyhhelpto keep allthe pieces even when ‘gluing and clamping them together. Tocuttte lot forthespinesTused | fj hand-held router and a slotcutiing Bit, eve Figs. 15 and 15b.Just be sure to stop the slot short of the edges of the workpiece, see Fig. 1a After routing the slots Icutsplines tot The thing to rememberhereis that fora strong joint, the gran should run across thejointline of themiters, see Fig. 153. ASSEMBLING THETOR. Before gluing up the top, [ery assembled the pieces ‘and clamped them together with band ‘@amps to check the fit of the glass, see Fig. 16.Butbecausel didn't want to take a chance on breaking the ‘glass, [made a template out of hard board the same size as the glassand used that to check the fit instead. Once Iwas satisfied with the fit of the miters and the size of the glass ‘opening, [glued up the frame pieces and clamped them back together. ‘Then I'used the template to check tie glass opening again with the ‘lamps in place MMFER. As a final detail, Irelieved the sharp edges by routing a very ‘small (He) chamfer all round the top ‘edge, see Figs, 17 and 17a ‘To atiach the top. simply centered It frontioback and sidetoside, Then Tdrove screwsup through thestretcl~ cers and upper end rails into the top, see drawing at right Aiter staining and finishing the entire table, [added the glass top. {M1 If you prefer a more traditional look for the coffee table cr if you're building itto mitebithe sofa table in Ise No.1 (coe photo), you may want subsitute solid No. 112 se band ciamp 1 hota ‘ame pieces together BUA A a co swood top forthe frame and glass top. ‘To do this, start by gluing up an over- Sze paneloflthidestock. Aterthe glue is dry, the panel canbe trimmed downto finished se of 20" 38" (he same size as the frame forthe glass top) Once the panes cutio nished size, the bottom edges canbe beveled. Butthere’s ‘asmall problem here. Because ofthe large ‘Sze ofthe top, vasalitenervous about standing the top on edge and running it through the table sav. So to provide alit- tie extra support, attached a tall aux lary fence to my np fence, see drawing, Woodsnsith Ys Tz oD ie ‘ 7 = fat, © Genter stot on trcvess Sr workptece on baye of fale before | eh screws Bul HEIRLOOM PROJECT JEWELRY Box I exis as elegant asthe jewelry that goes inside, Anditsnotharel to figure out wh: Whatimmediately grabs your attention fs the edging ‘The walnut edging wraps around the project almost like a ribbon around agit box. Itdraws your eyes along the edges, creating « simple outline thats pretty dramatic. Infact, Tiketo think ofthe edging as frame for the mahowany — especially the figured mahogany in the lid of the box, see inset photo, THREE WAY MIR, Butte cing does more than just “dross up" the box. It also provides a unique woodworking challenge. ’That’s because a each cor- ner, where three edging pieces come together, you end up with a special Joint: a three-way miter Tike any miter joint, a three-way miter requires an accurate setup and careful fiting, But if taken step by- This attractive box is stuffed full of unique woodworking details — both inside and out. step, there's realy notmuch tit. See the article begin- ning on page 20) However, there's uichirares file An One opie diaricne feaares of ie eile jewelry box than is he convasing eles. The baring gives ou theedging. Infact, the opporuaniy to we a mig sree ay miter there's quite 2 bit of woodworking packed into this box. ‘VENEER, In addition to the figured ‘mahogany veneer on the lid, there's also veneer on the inside of the box. And if you've never worked with veneer dont let thatstop you. Thisis a great “first” project for veneer: The pieces are small, which makes them easier to work with. And allthe edges of the veneer will be covered or rab- Deted for the edging. So you don't have to worry about precise fits. HARDWARE, Like the edging and veneer, the hardware is also abit out ‘Woodsmith ofthe ordinary For one thing. none ofitis visible from the outside of the bax Thehinges are concealed barrel hinges. And to hold the lid open, there’sancat litle lid stay that's mor ticed into tho sido ofthe bax. Humor. We thought this box would also make a fine humidor (a ‘box that stores cigars at a specific ‘temperature and humidity eveD This is done with some unique hardware aandan extra liner i the lid to seal the ‘box. And both are easy modifications tomake, ee page 19, No. 112Box ‘The construction of this box isn't unusual The sides and ends are joined with splined mites, see draw ing. And these pieoesaso capture the plywood top andl bottom panels, so the assembly is oaly enclosed. Lats the lid willbe eu from the box. DIS & NDS. To begin, I cut the sides (A) and ends (B) to width (414!) and mitered them to final Jength (13" and 10°, see drawing. ‘Then [cutakerfon each end forthe spline, see detal‘aat right. Shop Tip: When cuting the kerfsforthe sotines, sca lade that has its teth ground fat across thetop (ikearipblade), 0, the splines itwithout any tiny gaps. With the keris cut, Imade the MOTE:Sidc ond ed © | Oe ITY nore toate srlines that wil strengthen the cor. ‘Rpandboromare sermon Grove sone! ners.Justmakesurethegrainon the 7 PY" Ba Bio tos splines rans across the miter joint. TOR/MOTION PANELS. Nowiheboxcan mukesthe next two slepseasie _grOoves you just cut, see Fig. 2 be dry assembled, and the top end After trimming the veneer with a ASSEMBLY, At this point, the box is bottom (C)pancls can be cutto size life, Ieut wo Yé"-deep grooves in ready to be assembled. I used bend ‘rom 4 thick plywood, see drawing. each side and end piceo, soe Fig. 1. campshere Andsince thoreare lat Isizedthesepanels}"lergerthanthe These grooves will hold the top and ofpiecesto puttogether used white bocopening. (Vinewere 9/125") hettompanels And [positioned them ge since ithas a longer sep ime At this point, [glued a piece of so the top and bottom panels would TOP VENEER. When the glue has veneertotheinsifefceoteach panel endupflsh withthe opand bottom dried, the top of the box can be with contact cement. Even though edges ofthebox, sce detail’ above. veneered, see Fig 3. Butwhea youdo thebotiom panelwillbecoveredleter Nest, the outside faces of the top this, youll want the surface as flat as by a fabric liner, Ivencered it too. andbottom penels canberebbeted to possible. So fill any gapa with wood Hisingthe panel the samethickness create I“tick tongues tht ft the putty and sand everything fash, Toles of piyacd ae mova eiond teh NOTE Flip bor Sesecoun'> No. 12 Woodsmith »E Atthis point, the boxis ready forthe ‘walnut edging. There are three steps {o this:fist,rabbeting the edges ofthe ‘box, then mitering and adding the ‘eclging strips and finaly sancinzand shaping the edging. AABBETING THE EDGES, The "a! x Yi" rabbets takes some extra care, see Fig. 4. Tused the router table with a Ye dia, straight bit and afence. What ‘you want to avoid is chipout (espe- Gally the veneer onthe bi). So I ook afew precautions. First, to prevent chipoutatthe end of the cut when the bitextsthe box, Tused the miter gaugeand added an aunliary fence that extended almost to the router fence, sce Fig. 4. This fence also made it easier for me to ventchipout was to rout the shortest ‘make couplescoring passes without edges (¢he corners) first, then the having to readjust the router fence, short eiges on the top and bottom of see Figs. 4a and 4b, the box, and finally the long edzes. The two scoring passes were my ADDING THE EDGING. Next, strips of ‘second precaution. They prevented walnut edging (D) are added to the chipout on the faces of the box. So rabbets, sce Fig. 5. planed down an after the first scoring pass (Fig 4a), oversize blankand rippedit into thin [flipped the box around and routed strips. Just make the strips slightly the second scoring pass on the adja. oversize in height and width so they ‘cent face, see Fiz. 4b, Now with both can be sanded flush later, see Fig. Sa. faces scored, there's less chance for Mitering and gluing the edging chipout, So the third and final pass _ stipsis simply amatter of ackling one canbe made at fill depth, see Fig. 4c. piece at « time. For complete, step- The last precaution I took to pre: by-step instructions, see page 20. SHAPE £06 With the edging on, sanded it flush by placing strips of adhesive-backed sandpaper downion ny table saw and moving the box back and forth over the sandpaper. ‘Next, routa/s! roundover on the edges ofthe box, see Figs. Gand Ga. ‘GTLDFROMBOX. Athi point the lid ‘can be cut from the box, see Fig. 7. Raise the blades itjustcuts through the #'thick stock. Cut the short edges first, Then tape spacers into thekerfsand cutthe long edges, see Fig. 7. With the lid and box separat- ced. you can sand avay the saw marks, 16 Woodsmith,liners ‘With the td cut from the box, i's time (add a liner inside, see drawing at right. Each line pice is slightly taller than the box, o they help keep thelid aligned. And they have aledge for a swall siding tray. LNERS. The liner sides () and ends (F) are cut from. %6"shick stock, see drawing and detail: And they're sized to stick up above the box “i. (Mine were 2c! tall) Butbefore mitering the liner pieces ‘o final length, I softened their top edges by routing a roundover, see detail’ at right. When that’s done, the sidesand ends can be mitered to fitin the box. (Mine ended up 9" and 12" long, sce draving) ‘To complete cach liner, outa! deep rabbet on the inside edge, see detal'b? This provides alittle shou. der forthe tray to rest on. But to do this safely, the pieces need a little extrasupport, so taped the liners some scrap boards when cutting the rabbets, see photo inmargin atright. ‘Shop Note: To end up with a square shoulderon the rabbt, use aripblae (Once the rabbets are cut, postion the liners in the box but dont sie them in place yet — you'll need to remove them later. But for now, you can build the tray that rests on the shoulders you just cutin the liners. TRAY. Imademy tray sides (Gand ‘ends (HD out of hick stock, see Fig. 9, The tay should end up fash ‘wi the top of the liners (L44" tal. ‘Ancithe sides (G) are mitered tofitthe boxtightly. (sanded the tray to slide smoothly ajterit was assembled.) ‘Thento hold a thick plywood bot- tom, I rabbeted the bottom exizes of the tray pieces, see Fig. 9a, YALVET ¢ LEATHER, When the bottom D has been cut to size and the tray ZS nore Toast rebbet force see Pp =. Ya margin has been glued together, thenet step is toadd velvet finingto both the tray and the box, see Figs. Band 9. To do this, simply cut piece of posterboard so it will it tight in the ‘opening after the velvet has been wrapped around its edges, see Fig. £84, ([allowed about "on each site) Talsocutapiece ofleather to.cover To suppor the the plywood on the bottomotthe box, liners while cut- see Figs. Sanda Butdon'tglueitin ting the rabbets, | place until ater the lid is mounted —_carpet-taped them and the boxis finished. toa serap piece. ever mer pocertoart mma eee Reuse, erate cs ee ae ae Noa Woodsmith18 Hardware ‘Tocomplete the Jewelry box, alltha’s Teftis to mount the lid and apply the finish. [uses concealed barrelhinges and abrasslid stay to attach thelidto the bax, see Fig. 10. But before you ‘ean mount the hardware, the liners inside the box need to be removed. Up sTAY. Mounting the Tid stay ‘requires a litle work. Itfits toa’ lot in the top of the Dox side, see Figs, 10a and 109. But I shoukd point ‘outthatthe stay isnt whereitssup- posed” to be (whorethe manufacturer ‘suggests it should go). If] had fol. lowed the instructions, the id stay ‘wont have covered part ofthe spline ‘So I decided to change its position slightly. This litle alteration means the li stopsjust short of butts stays open. Por more on instaling the Tid slay, sec page 22. HINGES. Compared to the lid stay, the barrel hinges are preity simple, see Fig. 10 Simply drill 10mm holes inthe lid andthe box. The trick isto _getthe two sets ofholes to aim so the cedgesof the id and the box are flush. To do this, Haid out the center of the hiages on the box. Then { drove in small brads and snipped off their heads. Novr to mark the centerpoint of the hinge on the hid, just align the lid with the box and press it down, see Fig. 11, Remove the brads, and bolh the centerpoints are marked. ‘With the holes drilled, the hinges ‘can beinserted and “locked in’ place. ‘This is done by tightening a small screw that spreads the hinge's body, wedging itin place, see Fig. 12 ‘on a few coats of General Finishes’ [ikisH, With the hardware installed, — Royal Finish. Butyou could also apply Tarefully glued the liners in place. several coats of a spray lacauer (ike ‘Then tofinish the box, Hirst sanded Def) ifyou would lke the box iolave itcarefullyso esnot to sandthrough a highgloss finish. CUTTING DIAGRAM ieoengary ex es 48" Mahogary (1.2 $3. Fe) é & xe Fe -zatmone> MATERIALS BoxSides 2) Wx -13 Boxtnds (2) Mx 4-10 Top 8 Btm Hp x9%- 12% Edging(i) YxY%a-110.gh Liner Seles (2) 94 x3 gh. ~ 12 Liner Ends (2) 3x3 iGh.-9 | Tay Ses 2) 4x 4x 8% Tay Ends @) Yo 14x 5 Tray tm. (1) % ply. 512x814 SUPPLIES + @)11" x74" Veneer fran.) + (1) 10" x 13" Leather (ah) + (2)10" x13" Fabric Lines igh.) + (1) Mortised lid Stay + (1 pt) 10mm Barrel Hinges Ne. 112Instead of jewelry, this box can be Duilto hold cigars. To keep the cig arsfiesh, the inside ofa humidor must bekept ata constant temperature and humidity level Soitfeatures abyero- ‘meter to measure humidity and a humidifier toad moisture, see photo and Fig. 2. (See page 35 for sources) SPAMSH CAR. But there are a few ‘other changes. First, theinside ofthe box staid with Spanish coder: (This includes the veneers liners dividers ‘and mounting block.) Spanish cedar is stable and rot resistant — ideal for the humid congltons inside the box. But keep two thingsin mind: Spanish ‘cedar different than aromatic cedar (though itdoes have aspicy aroma). added a mating ner inthe id, see on when trimming the liners to final Plus, youdon' want toapply any fin detail in margin, This liner acts as 2 _ size, which equalsthe depth ofthe kd ishtotheinside ofthehumidor. gasket sea the box. rvineus Yi, (Mine were ¥/" tl.) NERS. The liners for the humidor Whenmaking the liners the! DIVIDERS & MOUNTING BLOCK. ll hats arcaloo different For one thing,there _coveleavec frail ip on the edges left now are a couple dividers with is no tray, so the liners in the box of the pieces. So whea routing the hols for ir circulationand a mount- atenttrabbeted, seecetailin marzin. cove, taped on scrap piece for sup- ing block for the hygrometer and In aldton tothe box line, ls0 port, see Fig. 1. And Left this piece humidifier, see drawing and Fig. 2. ie NOTE: All interior leces (ncusng pengbotor parish cedar | NOTE:Lid rare, death mms or te) [Ss @. Disier cut fromm 7 ‘thick Spar cedar +e Oras o |] we OD H ae No. 112 Woodsmith ‘A When the lid is shu, the liners in the humidor form athe seal, so the hit inside stays constantWOODWORKING TECHNIQL "THREE-WAY MITERS Three edging pieces meet at each comer of the jewelry box. This creates an opportunity for a unique woodworking joint: A three-way miter. ea oe See for some interesting woodworking. Ateach corner, where three edging pieces meet, you needa special joint: a three-way miter, see drawing, Now don't let the name scare you. ‘Three-way miters aren't as difficult asthey might sound. The miter gauge selting is the same as with a regular Seer that each end is mitered twice, with the piece rotated between passes. MITER GAUGE ACCURACY. The first step to cutting a three-way miter is the ‘same as with a regular miter: Set the miter gauge to 45° see Fig. la. This is key to how smoothly everything else goes from this point on. — A Tocheck a miter gauge set at 45%, miter to wide pieces and set them edge-to-edge. ‘Then use a try square to check the setup. ‘Shop Tip: To ched the miter gauge angle, euttwo wide scrap pieces and st them edgetoedge, see drawing below left. This way, Ican use my try ssauare to check the accuracy, And the wider pices exaggerate any error. With the miter gauge set, next I attached an auxiliary fence to oup- port the pieces, cee Figs. 1 and Ia. However, because the edging pieces for the jewelry box were so small, I also added a thick hardboard base ‘underneath the auxiliary fence, asic CUT. With threeway miters, both ends ofevery picee get cut with the same two-step process. The first stepis a regularmiter cut, see Fig. 1 ‘Note: When makingtthe miter cuts ‘onthe edging, you dontt need to push the piece all the way across the blade. 4A With ehree-way mites, each endis mitered ruice. And there's lly no orick o gexing the pieces of You simply add one ata time After the cut is complete, slide the edging away from the blade and pull the miter gauge back. (Don’ pullthe workpiece back across thesaw blade No. 112‘oritmay nick the tip ofthe ec) ‘The second step is to rotate the ‘edging pieve sothe bevelisfacn uo ‘andl cut a second 45° bevel, see Fig. 2, The goal ofthis second bevels 9 cut the first bevel exactly in hal To do this, simply snealc up on the cut, checking it between passes. When the edge between the two bevels tines up withthe inside edge ofthe edging piece, you know that both bevels are perfect see Fig 2a, CUTTING 10 fT, Of course, there's ‘more to this joint than just mitering theendsofthe pieces. You also need togetthem cutto length, Hereacou ple test pieces will come in handy After mitering one end ofthe first ‘workpiece, I carefully setit agninsta mitered test niece and taped the test pievein place, see Figs. anda. Now using a second test piece, T marked the “long point” on the opposite end ofthe workpiece, see Figs. and 3b, ‘Shop Tip: With the workpiece ‘marked, I sketched in the mitersto be cuton the pieve, see Fig. 3. Thisway, I didnt have to think too hard about wich way to cut the miter, Even with the workpiece marked, its sill « good idea to sneak up on the final length of the edging, see Figs. 4 and da. Check the itoten with the two testpieresunfili’sjust ight ‘And ifthe workpiece happenstto end up too short save itforashorter piece and star over with a new one, GLUING In PLAC. When the piece is mitered to length, i’ ready fo be ‘hued in place, see Fig. 5. ‘Shop Tip: Before adding the glue, { sanded the edge where the two bevels come together, see drawing in margin. This ensures the edging fits Welland also creates aitde space for excess glue. Just dont sand near the tip of the miter, or you could end up witha gap atthe point Now apply a small bead of gle to therabbets Use atestpieve tone up the edging piece and pressitin place. ‘Then to hold it there, simply weap strips of maskinetape around the ede ing, sex Fig, 5. StQUENCE While the glue on the first pieccis drying, you can move around to the next edging piece. Here, the procedureis the same. Only this time, No.112 instead ofbutting the pieve against a test piece, you can fit it against the edging piece you just giued in place. And when gluing the new piece against the frst, apply a litle glue to their mitered ends, I found it easiest to work my way around the top and bottom faces of thebox first This way, the lastpicces toadd are the corners, see Fig. 6 ‘Woodstaith Cons. The comer pieces are dit ferent than the others because you cant check the fit of ether end until the piece is cut to final length. You Justhave to sneak up onthe it. Buti’ stllagoodideato markthe final ength decty irom the box. To do this, I stood the piece against the box and used a square to mark the long paint, se Fig. 6. A Tip: Before, eee relieve the inside lg sighly with sandpaper. aTips FROM Our SHOP Mortised Lid Stay To support the lid of the jewelry box, Tused.a solid brass lid stay that is mor tised into one end of the box. There’s nothing too dificult about cutting this mortise. Ifs really just 2 ‘atte of taking the time to ‘make the proper setup. TEST PC, [started by lay- ingoutthemortise onatest piece cutto thesamelength and thickness asthe end of thebox, see Figs. and Ia ‘Shop Note: Although the directions that come with the lid stay say 44", Ulaid ‘out the mortise 94" from theback afthebox toavoid eating into the spline joint. ‘After laying outthe mor. tise, Ladtusted the fence on my router table so the router bit was centered on the thickness of my test Pieve, see Fig. 3a. STOP 8006. Using the ay out tines as a guide, 1 clamped a couple stop Diocksto the ence, see Fig, 2, Butat this point, [dida’t worry about getting them perfectly positioned —I set them to cutastighily short er mortise than necessary, With the bit raised only an A, | routed a mortise ‘on the test piece by drop- ping it down over the bit and pushing itfirst towards ne stop and then back against the other. Now it's just a matter of moving thestop blocks out alittie at atime to enlarge themertise until thelid stay fits perfectly, see Fig. 2a ‘With the stopspositined Iwas ready to cut the mer- tise on the box. I did this by making muiiple passes, raising the bita litte after each pass until T reached the final depth of "fa", see Figs.9, 9, and 9b. ‘To attach the stay, simy ply drop it in the mortise ‘and seit asa template to drill couple holes for the screws, See Figs. 4 and 4a. Finally, to mount the id end ofthe stay, dill a" dia hole on the edge ofthe lid, 1/4" from the back, see Figs.5and 52. Then epoxy the stayinto the hole Exterd layout ies ‘down tte oF ‘ert piece Woodsmith No. 112Mortise Strips Instead of making individ- grooves, they create mor- fence to the front of my turned the piece around ualmortises one ata time tsesforthespindles. miter gauge. Then Tut a and cut six more notches forthe spindles in the cof Butinstead of trying to dado through the center of onthe other side ofthe cen- fee table (see page 6), cutthenotchesin narrow, my blankand through the ter notch, following the ‘used a different approach. individual strips, [started auxiliary fence, ee Fig.2. same procedure, Note: You FirstIeata grmoveonone withawideblank cuttothe To keep the notches should end up with a total ‘edge ofeachendrall Then same length as the rails evenly spaced, I ghied an of 13 notches. I giued ina*mortise strip.” 244"). Then after the indexkeyintothenotchin _RIFPING. Before ripping GROVES, There's not notches are cut, the blank the auxiiary fence, see Fig. the strips, I drew a refer- much to making the will gt ripped into stips 2a. Then Treadjusted the _enceline oi one end ofthe srooves, Leutthem intwo imadethethicknessofthe fence so the key was %g" blank, see Fig. 5. Later passes, flipping each rail blank thesameasthedegth from the edge ofthe dado when the rails are ghued ‘nd for end between pass ofthe groovesin the rails) blade, se Figs. Zand 3c. _betweon the legs, this line ces to ensure that the NOTGHS.Tocutthenotch Next, I cut six more _willhelp youorienttheend grooves willbecentored on es,lusedadado bladeand noiches on one side ofthe rails so the mortises line the thickness of the work- atablesaw Butthetrickis centernotch,see Fig. 4.10 up, see Fig. 6. picce,sce Figs. Land 1a toKeepthenotcheseverly do this, I simply placed Shop Note: When gluing. MORTISE STRIPS. The mor- spaced.Todothis, used a each newly cut notch over the stripsinto theralls, use tse strips are just narrow simple indexing ji, thekeytocutthenextone a sparing amount of adhe suripswith notches cutin Tomakethejig,Isiarted Then aficr cutting the sive to avoid getting any them. Whengiuedintothe by clamping an auxiliary notches on one side, { _gluein the mortises. FRET Si Fo eo lete i see eference art| wil ep en enonted when gluing Between fogs =) NOTE: Use Sue paring aQuick Tip Woe nue ble, crossctt with the good side of the workpiece face up. This way, any cear-out will be on the side that won't be seen. WoopworKING TECHNIQUE CROSSCUTTING TIPS Over the years, we’ve come up with quite a few solutions for achieving accurate crosscuts with a table saw. Here are some of our favorites. ‘Togetanaccurate crosecut on the table saw, the blade thas to be parallel with the saws miter gauge slots. A quick way tochedkthis is 10 use a combination square anda marker, see the pho- {os atright. If your blade isn’t paral- Jelto themiter gauge slots, the table saw trunnion needs to be adjusted. (The trunnion is the assembly that holds the saws arbor to the bottom of the table) Normally, all you need to ois loosen the bots that hold the trunnion and tap the trunnion in the dires- tion needed. Checking a Blade Besides aligning the blade 10 the miter gauge slots, -you'should also square ito the table. Otherwise, the end of a board won't be square to the face, ‘The first thing to do is sake sure the tit angle of the blade is set t 90° But you cant rely on the table saws gauge for accuracy. So to check the blade, Jnstremove theinsert plate to expose the blade, see detail’. Then using a good combination square, I extend the rule on the ‘square helow the sarface of the sav. By using the entire surface ofthe blade, Tgeta much more accurate reading than ifIwere to set the square against the top half afthe blade only. Now it's time for a dynamic test ofthe setup. In other words, Itest the Woedsmith squarenesso the blade by actually turning the sawon and making a cut Todo this, make across cuton apiece of scrap, see drawing, Then fp the cut- < Mark tooth. To check that ‘your blade is parallel with the miter gauge slot, first ‘mark a tooth. Then place a squarein the lot and achust {0 the end of the square jist touches the side of the ‘marked tooth. Rotate saw blade. Next, slide the square and rotate the blade backward unt the marked tooth algns with the square. Ifthe square just touches the blade, the slot ‘and blade are aligned. off piece over and butt the ends together, see detail’. Ifthere'sany gap where the two ends meet, the saw blade isnt square yet and needs io be readjusted. No. 112Miter Gauge Setup Jig Tied fo spend que at ies so theyre pare. of time adjusting the miter ‘Next, cut one ead of the gauge and testing the jigat90° And cut the other ‘setup. Now, Ihareasimple end at 45° These cuts need jig that allows me toquickly _ to be accurate, so take your and accurately setthemiter _ time. After all, if they’re off, iqagotobot OU" an 45%, even slighty, then your ‘see photo zhove right. miter gauge will always be ‘To make the set-up jig. _ off, and the jig won't be of allyouneedisascrappiece much help. of plywood. (Mine was 8" ‘When the ends are cut, x12") Thefirst thing todo all that’s left is to cut two. with this picccisto rip both grooves sized to hold the Supporting a Miter Cut ven fa septs peri, First. always like to you cansill end upwithan work with an auxiliary inaccurate crosscut. That’s fence, see drawing below because pieces have ater and fence on page 26. dene lostiltas theyre Thea to hepesnre the pushed passed the blade. ce, attach adhesive- ‘Thisis especially truewhen backed sandpaper to the calting mites, But there fencsta rab the plece. ea coeple precaitions also secire the wore Youcantaketapreventth nlece wih atop bloc se bar of your miter gauge. (1 made mine 14" deep) Cut ‘one groove on each face, sig. Louttwo grooves sothat ‘you can seUhe i wa45° ‘angle in either direction, ofisetingthemsoasnotto (To setthejgo9"simply | Qyiek create a weak point in the use the square end) Ovid Tip. Toavoidcarout, dlon'pul aboard Loose Miter Bar | tick clong the deta a below. Forthefirst Its surprising how much | side of the saw miter Luse the squareend side-to-side play a miter | teeth after mak- ofthe block. gauge can have. And of | ing crosscut, For the second miter, { course, aloosefitcanaffect | Insead, lide the flip the block around. This the accurncy ofthe setup. | workpiece atuay nil is mitered to 45% s0 it To solve this problem, I | from the blade. contacts the entire end of widenthebarwithapunch, | Then pull the the piece and protects the see drawing below The | miter gauge and tipof the miter. Pus, lad punchereatestiny dimples | the bnand back. notch for sawdust relief, with raised areas, see detail. Note: Ifthemiter gauge bar fitstoo snug, simply fie the dimples down abit, Cut Alignment ‘When crosscutting apiece, its notabyayseasy to align a pencil mark with the saw blade, But there's really a ‘simple solution. ‘To increase the accurs- cy, make a scrateh on the top ofthe table saw that cor responds to theedgeof the blade, see Fig. 1. Now, simply position the pencil mark drawn on the ‘over the scratch line sn the say, see Fig. 2 No. 112 TAIRST: Clamp scrap ‘iter gauge anit end Ain na rrkto ‘te tne Woodsmith 25Auxiliary Fence ‘Whenever Im crosscuting, almost always attach an ausifary fence to my miter ‘gauge, see plaoto. A fence adds extra support, espe- Gally with short pieces. My fenceis adjustable. It ceanslesideto-side sothe piece Is always fully sup- ported by thefence—even, with angled cuts. Pus, the front fice on the fence can be replaced easily when it ‘eis “chewed up.” fa. Thefeeismade A upofthree pieces: two per- ‘manent, interlocking pieces anda replaceable font face, with machine serews, see see drawing below. detail 't By sandingthe top ‘The permanent pieces piece Hf thinner then the are ¥,"-thick bottom, it will “pinch” the and have inter- bottom in plac. locking rabbets _Note:"This fence works utboth from easy ov amiter gauge with one extralong asiotted face. But if yours blank) The top doesn’t have slots (like piece is 64long ours), drill holes for the and has a.cou- machine screws 11" up AA flipae sip allows you to ple of threaded from the bottom edige square up the frstend without insertssoitcan ‘The 14"-long bottom Faving to move the stop. be attached to piece “oats” under the top themiter gauge one (unite two mac Threeded NOTE: Yous nocd orilmourdhg fates iie-uptombakom ofimter paune Wiewis) Nore. Guede x5" abet or fo Stank Ther 9 ut top and Bottom neces tolenghth 26 Woodstith screwsare tightened), And ’s screwed to a replace able 3 tall ront face, ‘STOP BLOCK, also added a Slop block to my fence see Fig. 1 It allows me to cut several workpieces all the exact sane length. ‘The stopalso fips up oat ‘ofthe way. So when t's post tioned on the fence, I can square up the first end of each workpiece, see photo at lel. Then I can fip the top block tack down to aut uo fence «each piece to final length. “The actual sop isbolted to a clamping mechanism that attaches to the fence, see Figs. 1 and 1a ‘This clamping mecha- nism is an L-shaped block bolted toa piece of hard- board that has two “pres sure points.” When you tighten te plate knob, the ‘mechanism clamps to the fence. ( added sandpaper to prevent the block from Siping on the fence) No. 112Crosscut Sled To crosscutlargepanelson thetablesaw, use simple crosscat sled, see drawing atright It fectures « hard- ‘wood fence anal the same stop block usedinthe miter ‘gauge fence shown at lef. ‘Tobuild thejig Istart by making a hardwood run- ner, Size the ru it slides smoothly in the miter ‘gauge sbotin the table saw. ‘pplyalitle wax forbetter sliding action) Now cut a piece of %" plywood to the size you want. (My piece staried out 1644 x30) Place the run- nerin the slot and position thepanel on top ofthe run- ner sothe right end of the panel extends about /" beyond the blade. To attach the runner, teamporarily tack the panel to the runner with wire Quick Ti; Tomicro-adjus the brads. Thenfipitoverand boltheads, see drawing. the auxiliary miter fence, | angle of the miver screw therunner in place. Return the assembly to see page 25. gue, ery shinning Nowtohelp keep thejig thesewand pushthe panel To add the fence, crank | the fence with a aligned, add a second run- through theblade tocutoif the blade toitsfullheight. | playing card. ner that rides against the therightend. This way,the Then use a large framing, extension wing. endotthesledisexactiyon square toposition the fence ‘Note: If your saw has the path ofthe blade. and screw it in place exposed bolisontheexten- Forthefence, lused 3" Finally, add the stop block, sion wings, add a wood tallpiece of’/“thick hard- To see if everything is shimto the extension wing, wood. Thisway,Tenuld use square, make some trial ‘counterboring tyrecessthe the same stop block ason cuts onawide board. Squaring a Large Pune! Ifyou need to square ua large glued-up panel but don't have a crosscutsied, xyou can make doin a pinch ‘with a framing square and some carpet tape. ‘Thetridkisto usetherip fence. Of course, the ends ofthe panetare too uneven just torun the panel along the fence. But you can “fool” the fence. Simply car= Dettape the framing square lush with the panel's edge so itoverbangsthe uneven end slightly, see drawing. ‘Thea butt the square up against the rip fence to make the cut. Once one end is squared up.remove the framing square andcut the opposite end. Crosscutting Long Pieces Crossoutting ong pieces on the table saw is 2 hassle For one thing, its hard 10 keep the workplece tight against the miter gauge. hus supporting the far end ofthe workpiece requiresa Jot of downward pressure. “To overcome these prob- lems, [need a litle extra help. For instance, [stilluse an auaillary fence 10 sup- portthe piece. But clamp theworkpiece tothe fence, No. 112 see drawing at right. This way, the piece can ttt away fromthetence. Also,tohelp align my cutoff mark with the blade, Tuse the kerf in the auniliary fence, ‘The other thing I do is setup asimple “outrigger” to support the ends of the pieces, see drawing and detail’ atright. To dothis, {clamp a long board to a saw hiorsesoitmatchesthe height of my saw’s table. ‘lamp tong piece ‘osha fee = Outrigger Hippo Aas Th ferce” ‘outrigger, ow. Woodsmith28 SHOP PROJECT OUTFEED ROLLER Tifsectip tial ona lrole maleed ert) eee ernie nec And because it mounts to the saw, it’s always in place when you need it. hands are close to the blade, a ong piece will want to nose dive off the With this handy ourfeed roller, you can vepostion or the rolls easily, Simply raise the back end of the roller assembly and slide ic over. Or ifthe rollers off completely and store them out ofthe way. end ofthe table. And when the cutis complete, you have two pieces tomnan- age: the workpiece and the cutoft ‘The best solution is to use an out feedroller behind the saw. However, mest rollers you sce are floorstand- ing models. And the problemisashop floor is rarely level. The rollers can be adjusted to match the height of ‘your sav. Butonce the saw is moved, the stand will need to be moved too ¢s likely drat the rollers will need to be readjusted as wel Sowhen designing thisrolie stand, wanted the rollersto stay flash with the top of the saw no matter wherethe ssaw ended up.To do this, I attached the stand directly to the saw. This way, the rollers are always with the saw and always adjusted propecl. Woodsmith But youstill vant tobe able to repo: Sition the rollers, Forinstance, most of the time I want the rollers right Dehind the bale, see photo above But when breaking down a sheet of plywood, I like ledge of the save To allow this kind of lexibility, the rollers. are a separate asset n the frame they rest on, This way, they can be repositioned easily, see photo at left. Or ifyou store your saw in a light space, you can remove the roller assembly and hang iton the wall ‘This roller stand is attached to our Delta contractor's saw, but it’s designed to work with any contrac: tor’ saw. Adapting it fo your make and model should be a simple mat- terof repositioning afew sem closer to theTo make the roller stand, the first thing to dois build the arms. These picees are attached perma- ently tothe extension vings on the ible saw, see drawing aright And they sapportthe roller assembly thats aided later ‘ans Startby cuting the arms (A) tofinished sz: irom "thick blanks, see drawing a right. (.eutmine 64" 4 423/" out of hard maple) Since the fence rails on the saw stick out past the extension wings, the next thing to dos notch outthe arm blanks, see dezls and’. This notch should allow the arm to fit around the back rai as wells lave enough clearance (at east Ya) soit isnt in the way ofthe rp fence. And while [was tt also round- ed the sharp corner on the front bot tom edge, see drawing and detal'c. uD. Before attaching the arms, Laddeda Ushaped cradle (B) tthe inside face of each, see Fig 1. These crailes support a piece of common ceetial eonduit [picked up atahard- warestore. Theroller assembly will actully ride on this conduit) “The crailes willbe easier to make itthey'e cut roman oversize blank, see Fig. Ja. I started by cating the notches thet hold the conduit. Their ‘widths should match the conduit’s outside diameter. (Mine was 18.) Nea drillapilthole and add a #10 ‘wondscrew inside each notch. (Do thisbefore cutting the piecesto size) Tate, thisscrew willalow youto eas No. 112 ily adjust the height of the conduit. After gluing the cradlesto the arms, the armsare ready to be bolted to the extension wings, see drawing and detail ‘a: But first. 1 made sure the wings were flush with the surface of the caw’ table, sce detail ®. (This willmake it easier to adjust the height ofthe rollers later on) To attach the arms, my saw required a ‘/c® carriage bolt (and some washers), see detail ‘a’ But again, this will depend on your saw. (You may even need to drill some holes in your extension wings) ‘When mounting the arms to the wings, the arms should be flush with the surface of the extension wings, see detail b’ Butthey should also be square to tis surface. You can do this by bending the flanges on the wings inor out. Or in the case of cast iron extension wings, you can chim the arms so they're square. ‘CONDUIT. Now all that’s left to do is cut the electrical con¢utto fit between. the two arms, see Figs. 1 and 1a. (Mine was 404" long) Itrests oa the screwin the cradles, Butdouitworry. about adjusting its height justyet)30 Arm Supports l5ven though the arms are boted to. theextension wings, I wanted to add a litle more support. So Tbraced the arms with two triangular pieces that fit under the extension wings of the savy, see drawing at right. ‘ARN SUPPORTS. The arm supports (Osartoutas*/thick rectangular blanks, see detail bat right. fine were 12" x 15"), The firstthing to do to these blanks is rip them to match the height of your saw’s cabinet. (Mine was 11%/o! tall) Now you're realy to cut the sup- ports to length. There ae two tricks here. First, don’ assume that both supports will rl up the same length. And second, keep in mind that the cabinet may notbe squareto the table. So to getan exact fit, I positioned one end ofthe blank against the arm, and scribed the opposite end to fit the cabinet, see Fig 2. And before remor- ing the blank, I also marked the hot- tom edge of the arm, see detail‘. Thisisforthebevel cut alongthe bot tom edge of the support. ‘fier both supports are laid out, I cut them fo length and cut the angle along the bottom edge. Then they can be screwed directly tothe arms, Ssoreanar see detail’ above and Fig. 4 HANGS, To attach the supports to the saws cabinet, you'll ned to add flange to each, se Figs. 3 and 3a. ‘Theflanges (D)are2'/!"wide pieces cto match the height ofthe cabinet. ‘The flanges are serewed tothe am. supports (C) but bolted tothe table sav see Figs. and. Arto do this, you'll probably need to rill some holes inthe table saw's cabinet. MATERIALS SUPPLIES A Ams @) xO 42% + (@)#Bx2" Fh Woodscrews + (5) 4" x 117A" Steel Rods B Crades(2) 4x 34-3 + (16) #8 x 1%" Fh Woodscrews + (5) 2"id. x11" PVC Pipes C Arm Supports (2) 94x 12 - 13 rh + (4)%o" x 114" Hex Bolts + (10) 2"-dia, Toy Wheels D Flanges (2) Bax 2h -1 Phe + (4)%6" Hex Nuts + (10) 36" Flat Washers E Roller Sides (2) ax Pr - 26% + (4) 546" Split Lock Washers '* (20) Wire Brads. F Cross Members (2) 34x 248 - 11¥a + (8) %6"Flat Washers + (1) 139"-dia. x 48" igh. Conduit G Hot. Adj. Flanges (2) ¥ax 2-2 * (10) #6 x34" Fh Woodscrews —* (6) "x 119° Carriage Bolts H Hat. Adj. Blocks (2) ¥%4.x% - 332 + (2) Ya" x 1%" Carriage Bolts * (©) "As" Ext. Tooth Lock Washers 1 Saddle Sides (2) Yanava x 16-12% | | + @)¥aTintern,Tooth Lock Washers + (6)7As" Flat Washers oe 3 Saddle Spacer(1) %4x1%- 12% + @)¥%" Flat Washers + (0%e" Hex Nuts ‘Note: Sizes may vary depending on your table saw. * (2) Ye" Hex Nuts + (2) #10 x 1%" Fh Woodscrews Woodsmith No. 112er CROSS MEMBER Height adustrent SN Rann the roller assembly. This consists of five PVC rollers anda sim- ple frame, se drawing. ROWERS, Each of the rullersismade with 2tia FVC pipe. Begin by cutting the pipe into five individual 1t"1ong tubes and sanding the ends smooth, see Fig 5 Now the tubes are ready to be pligged to support 2 1174'-Jonesteel axle rod, see Fig 5. The PVC tubes require 2"harcwood circles, Youcan ‘make your own withacircle cutter, or do what did —use toy wheels The axle hole in these wheels is just the tight size for the %-diameter rod. Note: To ill any geps inthe ft ofthe ‘wheels, wrap tape around the wheels before pushing them in fish to the ends ofthe tubes, see Figs § and Sa. ‘Then pin the wheels with wirebrads. SIDES & CROSS MEMBERS. With the rollers complete, the frame can be builtaround them. Istarted with the sides (B), see drawing. After these are cut to size (2A! « 2616"), drilled 7ja' local glass shop. Itwas '/' thick glass with a I!\wide beveled edge. SOFA TABLA while back ‘we featured asofa table that ‘matches the style ofthe cof fee table, In fact, you can ‘see ib inthe background in ‘the phoio on page 13. ‘This issue (No. 104) is ‘ill available from Wood- ‘smith Project Supplivs. Wordsmith issue No. 104 wst04 $4.99 JEWELRY BOX Building the jewelry box on page 14 requires a few pieces of hardware, plus some other items that Ill mention ina bit. For hardware, we used two 10mm barrel hinges and a small mortised lid stay. (You'll need a 10mm drill bit to mount the hinges, see sources at right) Woodsmith Project ‘Supplies is current offer ing a kit that includes all the hardware you need for thejewelry box. Tewelry Box Hardware 7112-100 $1495 Note: This or similar hhardware is also available from the sources at right. Besides the hardware, you'll also need three Pieces of veneer (11"'x149), ssee the sources at right. WOODSMITH PROJECT SUPPLIES Hfyou would like to order project supplies or booksfrom Woodsmit Project Supplies, please use our Toll Free ‘order line, sc below I’s open Monday through Friday, from 8AM to 5 PM Central Time. ‘Before calling, please have your VISA, MasterCard, or Discover Card ready. If you would like to mail your order in, call the ‘number below for more information concerning ship- ~~ piltg charges as well as any applicable sales tax. 1-800-444-7527 Note: Prices subject to change fter October 1997 Phas, you'll need some fab- ric and posterboard to line the inside of the box and tray. And some leather to cover the boitom. We foune these items locally. HUMIDOR ‘The jewelry box can also >be built as a humidor, see page 19, But youll need some additional items. Along with hinges and a lid stay, you'll also need a hygrometer and humidif: er to check and regulate the moisture inside, Currently, Woodsmith Project Supplies is offer- ing a kt for the humidor. On (Cigar Humidor Hardware 712-125 $51.95 Note: This or similar hardware is also available from the sources at right Besides using special hardware, we also lined our humidor with Spanish cedar, We ased (wo 10" x 19" pieces of veneer and 1.9 ‘square feet of solid wood G4!" thick). Thisis available from the sources at right. OUTFEED ROLLER ‘Thetable saw outied roller requires uke abitof hard- ware. Poracomplete lis of the supplies youllneed, see the box on page 30) Fortunately, most of it is readily available at 2 hard- ware store ar home center. However, since PVC pine often has to be purchased ‘long lengths and because the 24a. toy wheels may not be readily available, Woodemith Project Sup. plies is offeringa hardware Ieitfor the rollers only. This it includes the following recut items: (©) 2'x11" PVCPipes (10) 2-tia, Toy Wheels ©) 36'x 174 Steel Rods (1) 34" Flat Washers 0) #17 Wire Brads Otfeed Roller Hardware niz-200 $2895 Wood Net now ow re wis: © Over79 Woodworiing Tips Online ‘¢ Project Plans You Can Download ‘¢ WoodNet Forum — Woodworkers’ Q.& A ‘¢ Home improvement Forum ‘© Power Tool Reviews ‘Links to Other Woodworking Sites Online Back Issue Index Point your browser to: http: //www.augusthome.com Select ‘Wondworking” from the Welcome Page menu. No. 112 Woodsmith MAIL ORDER SOURCES Similar project supplies and hardware may be ordered. from the following companies: Consinly Wood 718.855.0206 rote Bee Vener ShasishCar CConstartine's 800-223-8087 every Bow Harbours BV, om Dei Bit The Hardwned Store sosis-9174 Jecury B22 Vouer Speicher Lewy Boe ontuar & Vener 10 Dri Ba, Maio Haw, Spas Cer ‘Woedenith Store 800.825.5084 Jowsry Buz Herre 1Ooon Dit Bit, Manion Barton, Spa Ctr, eter Hardware Woodworkers Store 800:270-4441 Jewry Bae Hertuame &Voner, on Dri, ‘Sasi Car 2 Toy WheeA. Coffee Table. This Craftsman inpivd coffe table feu led glass tp, a series of narrow spindles, and Detailed plans begin on page 6 A Jewelry Box. The walnut edging provides a swing con trast to the figured-mahogany lid om this wrigue jewelry box. Stef-by-step instructions begin on page 14. ‘A Ouifeed Roller. Ow shop-bule ousfeed roller atiackes to your table saw, s0 it’s alwys in place when needed. Complete plans begin on page 28.