ISSN 1853-9610

MENDOZAS FREE MAGAZINE

N78 APRIL - maY 2016

The Lost Lakes

of Mendoza

Villavicencio
Nature Reserve

Mendoza

Winery Guide

E
E
FR
1

contents
News Republic
Its is Not All Happening at the Zoo.................... 6
ATM Frustration...................................................... 6
Asado Classes............................................................ 6
The Lost Lakes of Mendoza
Ben Shirley wades into the disappearing
wetlands of Mendoza province.es...................... 8
Guanacache & Llancanelo.................................... 11
Villavicencio
A Luxury Watering Hole...................................... 12
Natural Beauty.......................................................... 16

Wishlist
Wines and wines...................................................... 22
Out & About
Bars............................................................................... 24
Dining out.................................................................. 26
Winery Guide........................................................... 28
Maps & More
Map of Chacras de Coria....................................... 31
Useful information.................................................. 31
Map of Maip............................................................ 32
Map of Mendoza City Center.............................. 34

Local Potions
Emilie Giraud leafs through the medicinal
plants found in Mendozas Mountains............ 18

CREDITS
Issue april - may 2016 | ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
Editor: Charlie OMalley
Assistant Editor: Emilie Giraud
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Cover illustration : Donough OMalley
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti: jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION
Contributing Authors: Emilie Giraud - Ben Shirley
Photos: Emilie Giraud - Danone Grup
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not
necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.
www.wine-republic.com

NEWS REPUBLIC
Its is Not All Happening ATM Frustration
at the Zoo
For over a decade now, foreign visitors have been
The saga of Mendoza Zoo continues without any
resolution. This time it is the death of of 17 deer and
llama with accidental poisoning the suspected cause.
Perhaps it is time for a major rethink. A modern zoo can
justify its existence if it is well funded and well attended
and is pursues a breeding program that contributes to
the conservation of endangered species. Mendoza Zoo
fullfills none of this criteria and is in effect a parched and
dusty holding area for some down-at-luck creatures. A
walk around ts shabby facilities leaves one with a heavy
heart and nothing but pity for the unfortunate creatures
kept there. The bird cage seems particularly cruel and
unnecessary. One has to ask would these animals not
be better off being relocated to a better funded zoo in a
more temperate climate. The zoo should be closed down
completely.

restricted to taking out 1200 pesos a day from local

cash machines. This is plainly ridiculous, especially
in a country with 30% annual inflation. The amount
allowed would barely cover ones food costs for the
day, never mind accommodation and excursions. The
problem is exacerbated by local reluctance to take credit
cards which from a vendors point of view is slow and
expensive. The result is many tourists waste a morning
trying multiple ATMs and paying hefty bank charges.
We suggest you contact your bank and complain about
the situation.

Asado Classes
Argentine barbecue - known as asado, is nothing like
barbecues back home. Every cut of the cow is cooked
over a wood fueled grill with not a hot dog or burger
in sight. It is a national institution and a major part of
Argentine culture with weekends taken up with family
gatherings around the outdoor grill. Many visitors miss
the experience as it is rarely replicated in a restaurant
or steakhouse. Also it is a little more complicated to cook
and each cut requires its own distinctive method. Hours
of conversation and heated discussion are spent amongst
the locals on the best way to cook a side of ribs. An
excellent way to experience this culture is take a master
class in cooking asado with Angelo, the asado expert. He
invites you into his home and his local butchers to select
the best cuts and an evening passes quickly as you toil
over the grill to produce the perfect steak.
Facebook/Chef Angelo.
Tel: (0261) 156809191

The Lost Lakes of

Mendoza

Ben Shirley wades into the

disappearing wetlands of
Mendoza province.es
As with so many popular myths, the local belief that
Mendoza is a desert can be easily contested. Sure, it is
a land with a dry crust, but from the peak of the largest
mountain range on the planet to the wetlands below, via
reservoirs and rivers, the province is blessed with huge
amounts of what has become a valuable commodity fresh water. To be more precise, fresh, mountain melt
water. Cordon Del Plata - a range of peaks covered in
snow all year round (and which can be seen from the
city), and Aconcagua mountain and park, together must
be the largest single snow-trap known in the natural
world.
Like all resources, and especially given the dry climatic
conditions in the region, this water means wealth and
power. In Mendoza Cipolletti dam, inaugurated in 1890,
and Potrerillos dam, completed in 2001, combined with
the gentle inclination of Mendozas desert plains away
from the mountains have allowed the irrigation of
huge areas for intensive farming. The downside of this
human thirst for water has been the slow drainage of
the provncesnatural reservoirs, the wetlands.
The wetland or swamp, has a bad reputation that is
undeserved. It is an epicenter for wildlife. It provides
food and materials for all. Its eco-system stores high
levels of carbon dioxide. Its watery habitat creates
life itself at a primeval level. The wetland also plays a
fundamental role in controlling floods and droughts,
acting as a giant sponge. For example, US engineers said

Guanacache
Credits: Diario Los Andes

mismanagement of the wetlands was the underlying

cause of the flooding of New Orleans in 2005.
Over the past century, approximately 60% of wetlands
areas worldwide have been lost. In the city of Ramsar in
Iran, in 1971, the first worldwide wetland convention
took place, setting out basic guidelines for authorities,
environmentalists and educators.
The Wetland Foundation works restoring and
preserving and promoting the so-called Ramsar sites.
Argentina is bestowed with a good proportion of
Ramsar approved wetland areas, including South
Americas two largest aquatic bird habitats; the Mar
Chiquito (little sea) in Cordoba and Lake LLancanelo
in southern Mendoza.
LLancanelo means green spearhead in the local
Huarpe language as such is the colour and shape of
the lake when viewed from the higher ground of the
surrounding stunted volcanic hills. The 60,000 hectare
nature reserve is home to an estimated population of
150,000 birds of which there are 165 different species
including flamingos and 10 types of duck. However in
recent years water levels have dropped drastically and
in 2014 the lake briefly dried-out. Its delicate ecosystem
is threatened by oil drilling and cattle ranching and
invasive plant species like tropical plant Tamarind
have infiltrated the surrounding soil.

Llancanello
Credits:
commons.wikimedia.org

At Mendozas other Ramsar site the problems are

even more urgent. For over 50 years, the Guanacache
Lakes, in the Lavalle district to the north of the
capital, have been starved of water. The reserve
covers a phenomenal area of 340,000ha in Mendoza,
240,000ha in San Juan province to the North and
almost 400,000ha in San Luis to the East. The
full name is correspondingly the Guanacache (a
Huarpe indian word meaning man who admires
the descending water), Desaguadero (water outlet)
and Bebedero (watering hole) Lakes. The lakes are
supposed to be fed by the Mendoza and San Juan
rivers but the dams and irrigation infrastructure
have changed everything.
The story of the wetlands is the history of Mendoza
itself. The Huarpe Indians lived here. They fished
and hunted and built houses, boats and baskets. They
found clay for pottery and planted corn. They traded
with tribes from the North and South. The population
grew. Sudden change came in 1480AD with the the
Inca occupation. The northerners had mastered
irrigation and agriculture on the steep slopes up and
down the whole mountain range. Water channels
on the gentle slopes were easily dug and the first
irrigation system was put in place, diverting river
water from its path towards the lowlands to irrigate
principally pumpkin, corn and quinoa. Llamas were
introduced and their wool made better clothing for
further exploring the mountains.

In 1560BC the Spanish arrived and in their wake

missionaries, soldiers and explorers. Originally the
Europeans worked alongside the Huarpes, copying
their techniques and expanding farming and fishing.
200 years later they had taken control and populated
the land. The lakes were intensively fished and the
land was intensively farmed. Agriculture consumed
the water. Construction and the railways consumed the
oak forests surrounding the lakes. By 1950 the water
stopped reaching the lakes. In the 1820s a law was
passed essentially outlawing the independent Indians,
stating that every man, woman and child required a
patron. Another law from this era encouraged the
draining, drying out and development of water-logged
land. Like the lakes, the Huarpes began to fade from
history.

specialist eco-tourism adventure. The lake is 500km

south of Mendoza city, near the mountain town of
Malargue. Or, for a taste of Huarpe culture go to
Guanacache lakes and wetlands 35km to the east of
the city.

Guanacache
& Llancanelo
wetlands

The lake is 500km south

of Mendoza city, near the
mountain town of Malargue.
Or, for a taste of Huarpe
culture go to Guanacache lakes
and wetlands 35km to the east
of the city.

In recent years there has been a mild revival in

Huarpe culture. The authorities have built schools and
infrastructure for the dozen or more communities and
the 6000 remaining inhabitants. An annual festival is
organised called the Fiesta of the Lakes of the Virgin
of Rosario (the Spanish name for the wetlands). It is a
religious folk festival with asado and typical dishes
in abundance, wine and music. Church services and
processions form part of a three-day-long throng.
Huarpes
If you are in Mendoza and have the time for a unique
adventure, visit Lake LLancanelo for a demanding

10

Credits: porpueblosoriginarios.blogspot.com.ar

Llancanelo

Guanacache

Credits: mendoza.travel

Credits: caminosculturales.com.ar

11

Villavicencio

Mendoza nowadays may be famous for

its wine lodges, but it was a water lodge
that first put it on the discerning tourists
map. Emilie Giraud takes a peek into
the Grand Hotel Villavicencio and its
impressive nature reserve .

Sites of interest in Villavicencio Reserva

A thirty-minute drive north of Mendoza City, on the

old mountain road that leads to Chile, youll find an
abandoned mansion in a lush green oasis. This Swiss
style pile was once a hotel and spa that catered for the
rich and famous and now is the iconic symbol on the
label of one of Argentinas most popular mineraI water
suppliers Villavicencio.
Yet Villavicencio is not just a high-end bottling plant
with an accidental and improbable hotel added on.
It is also a splendid natural park of 72,000 hectares,
where guanacos wander like herds of sheep and
desert fox approach you shyly. Condor soar above
and armadillos scuttle in the sand. The road itself is a
majestic rise through desert, rock, abandoned silver
mines and petrified forests and offers some of the most
stunning views and scariest falls. Known as the Road
of 360 Curves, it is the more adventurous way to reach
Uspallata on the way to Chile and on one such high
turn you can even spot the icy tip of Aconcagua peak.
The name itself comes from Joseph Villavicencio, a
mysterious captain from the Canary Islands and first
migrant to build a house in the area in 1680, at the
exact same place where the abandoned hotel now
stands. Water in Mendoza is gold, and Villavicencio
was blessed to have both gold mines and water springs
which made it a much coveted place.
Archaeologists think that the area was already
inhabited 12,000 years ago by tribes of huntergatherers from pre-Huarpe communities who would
camp around water springs, hunt guanacos, nandus
and hares and harvest the fruits of the carob-tree. In
the aftermath of the colonial foundation of Mendoza
in 1561, the Jesuits dug for silver and gold in what was
one of the first mines in the country in the area of
Paramillos, 12kms from the actual hotel.

Villavicencio is literally criss-crossed by Argentinian

History. From 1561 to 1891, it was the main road
between Buenos Aires and Santiago and since 1817,
part of San Martin Route, that celebrates the campaign
for Independence. At the entrance to the Reserve,
the Monument Canota commemorates the historical
moment in 1817 when two columns of General San
Martins Andes army separated before crossing into
Chile to liberate the Andes. This division was crucial in
San Martins ingenious military plan to fool the Spanish
troops and start the Freedom Campaign that would lead
to the independence of the continent from colonial
domination.

A Luxury Watering Hole

12

13

The bottling of water started in 1903. Three Frenchmen,

with a local pharmacist and doctor attributed curative
powers to the crystal clear water that was rich in
calcium and potassium and started to sell it in small
glass bottles in Mendozas Pharmacies. In 1923, Don
Angel Velaz created the Society Termas de Villavicencio
and made the water business successful by solving the
issue of water transportation to Mendoza with the
installation of an aqueduct. He also created the icon of
the brand with the construction of the Hotel Termas de
Villavicencio in 1940.

The glorious era of

Villavicencio Thermal Hotel

World War II had burst out in Europe, and like the rest
of the Argentinian high class, Velaz couldnt make it to
France for his annual thermal baths routine. Rumours
say that the hotel was born from his urge to cure his
hemorrhoids. What is sure is that the hotel was inspired
by his travels to Europe and mainly to Evian.
The hotel was constructed in the same time period
as many Peronist social hotels like Chapadmalal, but
contrary to them, the resort was managed privately
and catered to a very elitist clientele seeking rest and
cure during the summer. Built in less than 6 months,
the hotel is not exactly the Titanic of the Andes one
expects to see. It is rather an austere Norman style
building, with its typical red-brick inclined roof and
immaculate white walls incrusted by crosses of dark
wood that gives it a grave look. Apart from the warmth
of some murals and paintings, the inside part is austere
and the furniture is mainly rustic. The lamps were
made of cart wheels and the bedheads were made of
iron bedheads.
Upon their arrival, people would check-in and undergo
a medical diagnosis before settling into one of the
30 rooms with private bathroom and thermal water
in which they would enjoy their treatment during
extended vacations. But not only was Villavicencio
the holiday haven of cherry-picked members of the
Argentinian elite. Its terrace and the superb view
it offered were a must go destination for the local
bourgeoisie. They would go for the day to drink tea,
be mesmerized by the landscape, take a bath and
eventually bring home some of the precious liquid.
Behind the shutters that nowadays hide the interiors of
the hotel, one can imagine the buzz of the dining room,
the swirls in the ball room, the idle chat of gentlemen
queuing at the barbers, the outrageous show-off
elegance of some ladies walking in the gardens, or
the bustle of the staff as they try to make the best of
everyones stay.
The terraced gardens were designed by the son of
Carlos Thays, the creator of gigantic Park General
San Martin. The grounds were planted with exotic
European trees, garden ponds and pathways that
invited further exploration. Of course there was also
the obligatory tennis court and mini golf course. Apart
from providing their host with hydro therapy, the
hotel also promoted a healthy lifestyle inviting people
to eat well and exercise, without forgetting their moral
elevation an Andean health farm if you like.
14

Credits : Danone Group

15

The spouse of Velaz and her devoted friends were

preoccupied with the salvation of locals souls. Remote
from any parish, the ladies had noted that many
couples working in the area were not married nor their
children baptized and that many hotel residents would
simply not attend mass because of the distance.
A year after the opening, in 1941, a little chapel with a
traditional cane roof was erected. This is nowadays the
only place you can visit inside. The neo-colonial church
by architect Ramos Correas houses an impressive altar
which displays the last supper by Horacio Cruz.
Unfortunately under Velazs management, the hotel
was never profitable. It was opened all year long when
tourism was very seasonal. It relied on expensive power
generators for electricity and the staff was a whopping
90 people to attend only 60 guests.
The same water that was the reason for its existence
caused the premature death of the hotel. The rich
quantity of mineral slowly blocked up the plumbing
and finally lead to the closure of the hotel in 1970.
The scarcity of hotels in Mendoza for the 1978 World
Cup saw its brief re-opening to accommodate the
foreign press corp. In the same year, the Grupo Greco,
had planned to restore and extend the hotel to make
it economically viable, but after less than a year of
management the group went bankrupt and was taken
over by the military dictatorship. After 12 years of state

control and minimal maintenance, the place and the

plant were bought by the Cartelone group who restored
part of the gardens but quickly dismissed any chance
of re-opening the hotel as the investment required was
just too high.
In 1999 the French multinational Danone bought the
hotel and its 72,000 hectares reserve. The fantasy
of reopening the sleeping hotel has already been
abandoned by the new owners, but there are plans to
renovate the facade and to create a museum inside.

NATURAL

BEAUTY
Since the year 2000, Villavicencio has officially been recognized as a Natural Park but the area has been
considered of archaeological, botanical and geological interest for centuries. Charles Darwin, on a side trip from
his famous voyage on the Beagle, spent two days in Villavicencio in 1835 where he discovered a fossilized forest
of Araucarias. It was close to here that he also noticed sea fossils 3000 meters above sea level and the germ of the
theory of evolution was planted in his mind.
Nowadays, the Danone Group and the 4 park rangers
who manage this unique private reserve are registering
its incredible fauna and flora. Here are some plants
and animals you can spot at different altitudes of the
reserve, some of which can be observed in the reserves
small museum, a few meters from the hotel.
EL MONTE : 700 m to 1200 m above sea level
Flora : Carob-tree, Jarilla, Chaar
Fauna : Mara, Fox, Guinea Pig, Choique, Nandu
EL CARDONAL : 1200 m to 2700 masl
Flora : Cactus
Fauna : wildcats, Thrush, Mora Eagle
LA PUNA : 2700 m to 3300 masl
Flora : Artemisia, Stipa, Ephedra
Fauna : Guanaco, puma, condor, Gauch

17

The Jarilla
The Jarilla is the most emblematic
indigenous plant in Mendoza.
Celebrated for its distinctive aroma,
it even has its own day on the 10th of
November. The low bush grows in dry,
sandy, desert soil and has a small leaf
and white and yellow flower. Its resin
acts as a sun protector and reduces
water evaporation, making the plant
particularly suitable for the dry and
hot weather.

Local

Potions

Pleasantly aromatic and very easy to

ignite, its wood is nowadays much
praised by the traditional Argentinian
Sunday asador (bbq man). It is not rare
to see a branch of jarilla hanging in
the shower of local houses to perfume
the atmosphere.
Traditionally Jarrilla was used
for rituals and is still considered a
powerful, anti-microbial and antiinflammatory plant. If you get lost
in the mountain, the Jarilla can also
serve you as a natural compass as the
front of its leaves are oriented toward
the east and the back side to the west

Pulmonaria or hierba del pao

With large and hairy, cotton-like
leaves, the Pulmonaria grows a 2 meter
floral stem of yellow and compact
flowers.
Considered by Andean mountain
climbers as emergency toilet paper, it
is also a good medicine for the lungs.
People use it to relieve bronchitis and
asthma.

Emilie Giraud leafs through the medicinal

plants found in Mendozas Mountains

18

Its leaves and flowers must be

prepared in tea to best take advantage
of its healing power.

19

Rosa mosqueta
Native from Europe, you can find
the wild Rosa in Argentina and
Chile and especially in the lower
Andes.
Resistant to many diseases, this
rose doesnt require fertile soil to
grow and has expanded so much
that some consider it an invasive
weed which unbalances the local
habitat. However it has great skin
reparation properties.
Avoid its raw fruits and sharp
thorns. In Mendoza, people use its
fruit to make jam and herbal tea.
Mosquetas seed oil is the perfect
anti-ageing cream as it is nutritive,
regenerative, and can heal scars.

Artemisia Mendozana / Ajenjo

Its silver color makes the Artemisia
very recognizable and it is found
on the the rocky and sunny sides of
the mountain.
It borrows its name from the
flamboyant hunting greek goddess,
Artemisa means physical integrity
and great health and is noted for
its feminine qualities. Indeed, apart
from being a useful ingredient
for liquor and serranos, the ajenjo
facilitates menstruation and helps
digestion.
Used on the skin, it has an antiinflammatory effect and an
antiseptic action.

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WISHLIST
BIUTIFUL - MAAL WINES - 51967
bottles

Located in the heart of Chacras de Coria,

MAAL Wines produce Malbecs from
different regions. The grapes for Biutiful
are sourced from San Carlos, Uco Valley
at 1250 m.a.s..l and the wine is produced
without additives, is unoaked, and
fermented in old concrete tanks with
indigenous yeasts. On the nose youll find
cherries and spices.. In the mouth it has a
medium body and is fresh.

5 CINQ BRENNAN FIRTH CEPAS

ELEGIDAS - 2916 bottles

Brennan Firth has mastered an exquisite

blend of 30% Merlot 20% Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and
10% Petit Verdot from three different
terroirs located in Vista Flores, Agrelo and
La Consulta. Fermented with native yeasts,
un-refined and unfiltered, this remarkable
wine has spent 22 months in barrel. Its an
explosion of aromas and flavours such as
cranberry, plum, violet and spices.

TUCUMEN RESERVA MALBEC 2012

BUDEGUER - 18277 bottles
Tucumen Malbec blends Malbec from
a young vineyard in la Consulta Uco
Valley and from a 80 year-old vineyard
from Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo. Aged 12
months in French and American oak,
it achieves a tasty balance between
fruitiness and oakiness. Exhaling the
typical aromas of Malbec like plums and
violet flowers, it has smooth tannins
and good acidity.

PULENTA 2011 Gran Cabernet Franc

A classical Cabernet Franc from top

winery Pulenta Estate winery is perfect
for the beginning of autumn. Aged 18
months in new oak barrel, this very
elegant wine has elegant notes of roasted
pepper, eucalyptus and spices. In the
mouth it is perfectly balanced, rounded
and silky.

CAELUM RESERVA 2012 FIANO

2012 - 1000 bottles

Caelum winery is one of the very few to

produce Fiano outside the south of Italy
were it is originally from. The grapes are
sourced from 4 year-old vines planted
in Agrelo. The wine didnt undergo any
malolactic fermentation which gives it
a refreshing acidity. Aged 12 months in
barrel, it is unctuous and lingers in your
palate.

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bars
inside Mendoza City
The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva
Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred
to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to
San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out
because the clubs dont even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located
out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.
MATIAS DOWN TOWN
Victorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from is
enough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners.
Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain starting
in Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San
Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendozas version is right
in the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off or
some serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.
ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.
Black Sheep
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an Americanstyle sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.
BELIEVE IRISH PUB
One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English partowner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit musicvideo montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.
believeirishpub.com.ar
TAVERNA Beer Hall
In the heart of Chacras de Coria, nestled in an old brick winery,
Taverna is a cool industrial like beer hall with a vintage
touch. It is the ideal place to gather with friends or mingle
with the locals around its big tables. Cosmopolitan music, a
diverse wine and beer selection and tasty snacks including
salads, pizzas, quesadillas, nachos and waffles, makes it a new
trendy option to shake up Mendocinian nightlife. Open from
Thursday to Saturday from 7 pm to 2 am. Happy hours 7 pm
- 10 pm. Viamonte 4961, Chacras de Coria - 0261 496-6161 .

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dining out
MENDOZA CITY
La Patrona

This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a

casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful
hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona
attracts a crowd full of locals every night
of the week who come for the honest,
traditional Argentine food and friendly
and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes
like the hearty empanadas and sizzling
asado are worthy and popular fare but
the real star here is Patronas warm,
open sandwiches We recommend the
artichoke hearts and goats cheese;
roasted vegetables with white wine and
honey; or the more traditional pick of
rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent
wine list and some satisfying desserts
complete the gastronomy experience
but the key to Patrona is the cosy way
that they really make you feel at home.
Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.
Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm
- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal
cost: $150/(including starter, main dish,
dessert+a glass of wine)

gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty

Argentine classics such as locro - a
stew which hails back to the early
independence days. Save room for
the stunning desserts. The Hyatts
other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a
more gourmet evening menu and
the most exuberant lunch menu in
town. With a gorgeous buffet spread
of starters like squid and basil stew,
crispy calamari with cool gazpacho and
mezze style tapas, youll need to bring
your stretchy waistbands to fit in the
hearty and flavourful main options
and the sumptuous dessert buffet on
top. Put aside an hour or two for this
tempting lunch or make your way here
in the evening to try the Mediterranean
inspired dishes including delicious
pasta, fresh fish and some great cuts
of meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225.
Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
M Executive Menu $280 with starter
buffet, main course, dessert buffet and
glass of wine.

kitchen to kitchen before she decided

to get back to her roots and set up her
own project. At weekends she turns her
kitchen into a laboratory of flavors and
her stylish living room into an intimate
dining space. Her refined cooking has
a home-made touch and she uses highquality seasonal products in quantities
that wont let you starve. Make sure
to try her 5-step menu. Ours included
a simple and delicious bruschetta of
dried tomato, black olives, ricotta and
herbs. This was followed by a miniquiche of bacon and bittersweet sauce,
pappardelle pasta with gambas and
cooked tomato cherry. The main course
was classic filet mignon with Malbec
and green peas cream. Dessert was a
succulent chocolate sponge cake with
cranberry sauce and lemon cream. Effe
opens from Friday to Sunday and is
located a few blocks away from the city
center. Reservations required. Cellphone
/ Whatsapp: +5492612370023.
Facebook : Effe cucina

Grill Q

El Mercadito

La Marchigiana

Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill

Q serves up traditional regional cuisine
at a five star level. Sit back in the chic
parilla style restaurant amongst the
cowhides and local artwork, pick from
one of the many Mendocinean wines,
make your order and watch the chefs
at work in the open kitchen. They are
famous for their grilled meats and

Effe Cucina

With an attractive fairy lit patio and

terrace outside, this is the perfect spot
for some lunch time sunshine or al
fresco dining. Run by three friends,
El Mercadito has a cool vibe and
relaxed music making it a favorite.
Opened recently by three friends,
El Mercadito is offering something a
little bit different to Mendoza. With a
cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive
waiting staff, this is quickly becoming
a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to
eat or evening cocktails. Opening in
the morning for healthy breakfasts and
antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays
open throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads and
some Argentine classic meals. Chow
down to big healthy salads like the
Langoustine with huge juicy prawns,
fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck
into one of their big toasted sandwiches
like smoked salmon and cream cheese,
or jamon crudo and arugula served
with chunky chips and homemade
BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make
sure to try out one of their yummy
strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito,
Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847.
Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria:
Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

As the first Italian restaurant in

Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty
of history and traditional recipes to
whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria
Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family
restaurant started off with only six
hearty Italian dishes but has grown
into a popular local fixture which is
always busy despite its curious lack of
ambience. The pasta is the best thing
here, maintaining original recipes
from over 60 years ago; we recommend
the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out
the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity
credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias
Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.
meal price: $170

Anna Bistro

Anna Bistro has been an important

restaurant on Mendozas food scene
since it opened 8 years ago, however
that doesnt stop it from renovating
itself each year. This year Jerome and
his team have started smoking their
own salmon and cheese to add a bit
more flavour to some dishes and you
can try the rich salmon on delicious
brioche and go the whole hog with
a pot of delicious steaming, garlicky
prawns. Along with a handful of
salmon dishes there are a host of
different foods on the menu including
classic steak, rich lamb, creamy pastas
and lots of lighter options including big
salads, sharing platters and vegetarian
dishes. While lunch and dinner is still
its main game, the beautiful gardens
and restaurant are open for breakfast
from 8am offering unending treats
from their own French patisserie
and the late afternoon is perfect
for sipping your way through the
extensive cocktail list or take your
pick from the arm long wine list. Av.
Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818.
Everyday 8am till late. Avg. meal cost:
$190 pesos.

Josefina Rest

The trendy, cosmopolitan international

cooking experience Josefina Rest is an
island of elegance on hectic Aristides
Street. The building is a playful mix of
the urbane and the natural. The warmth
of vintage style drawings adorning the
walls are illuminated through large,
handsome street windows.
Such an abundance of natural light
makes for a peaceful, illuminated lunch.
After work hours, youre welcome
to pop up for some gourmet tapas
accompanied with a rotating selection
of by-the-glass wine. At sunset, a
thoughtful combination of candle and
industrial light bulbs will put you in
the mood for a fine dinner. The food is
eclectic, seasonal, and very personal - a
fusion of Anas mum traditional recipes
and of her own international cooking
experience. Dont miss the Goat and its

Effe Cucina

Effe Cucina is the closed-door restaurant of

chef, interior designer, and globetrotter
Florencia Previtera. This bubbly and
talented Mendocina studied in a
top Chilean gastronomy school and
traveled Europe for ten years from

26

Anna Bistro

Club Tapiz

sweet red pepper pasta accompanied

with clay-oven grilledvegetables and its
parsley sauce! www.josefinaresto.com.
ar Aristides Villanueva 165, Mendoza
5500, Argentina - Tel. 261 4233531

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

Terruo - Club Tapiz

Tucked away among the sprawling

Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort
and its lovely restaurant Terruo.
This handsome eatery boasts an
elegant interior, excellent service and
a wine list that is sure to please even
the most finicky of wine snobs. Their
chef compiles a tantalising menu that
includes top notch lomo steaks, a
rotating range of salads and a savory
ginger/honey chicken dish that is
second to none. If you like what you
see and taste, book a room in one of
their seven Renaissance-style villas.
Dont forget to call ahead for dinner
reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maip.
AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com.
Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner,
Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
12am. Avg. meal cost: $385 pesos.

Los Negritos

Right in the middle of Las Vegas (in

Potrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza)
this restaurant stems from a story of a
family who came to live in here one of
the first weekend houses constructed
in the area. They named their home
los negritos a nickname of their
two young children. Many years
later, one of the negritos (Enrique)
decided to leave the bustle of the
city, moved to the mountains and
opened a restaurant with his wife ,
in Las Vegas. The restaurant serves
lunch and dinner every weekend and
on public holidays and the cuisine is
flavourful and typically Argentine
with stews (such as Tomaticn and
mondongo) milanesas, humita and
homemade pasta - many of the
recipes used are old family recipes.
The restaurant has been recognized
as part of the gastronomical route
and is noted for its quality of cooking,
architecture and landscape.Avg: $135.
Los Olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos.
(261)155697431. bodegonlosnegritos@
gmail.com. Fri to Sun and holidays.
From 12pm to 4 pm / GPS: S 33013370
- W 69272293

Finca Agostino

Elegance, history and the perfect

marriage of food and wine is what
youll experience by dining at the
restaurant of Finca Agostino winery.
Ancient vines with stems as thick
as tree trunks look in upon a light
filled, stylish interior with enough
space to dance a tango. The overall
vibe is polished and handsome. The
food is equally majestic - 5 courses of
well thought, imaginative dishes that
are paired exquisitely with all the
wineries wines - often explained and
described by the chef Sergio Guardia.
The menu is seasonal with much of
the ingredients freshly picked from
the propertys organic vegetable
garden and orchard. Creamy pumpkin
soup was the starter when I dined
there and the main course a choice
between prime beef or Mendoza kid
goat. If you have time make sure to
take a tour of the property which
includes an art gallery and replica
plaza of Plaza Espaa in Mendoza city.
Cookery classes are available where
you get to pick your own ingredients
and prepare and cook bread on an
open fire, empanadas, humitas and
asado. Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu.
tel 2615249358. Avg. meal price $400
pesos. www.fincaagostino.com

Josefina Rest

Los Negritos

27

the winery guide

The fine wine sister of Chandon
Argentina is a beautifully restored
bodega with well-appointed tasting
room. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.
(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames and
Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de Chacras

Charming boutique operation with

nice history. A five minute walk from
Chacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.
(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. Monte
Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
closdechacras.com.ar

Luigi Bosca

The Arizu dynasty are the royal family

of Argentine wine and their seat of
operations is a handsome and elegant
110-year old winery. (0261) 498 1974.
San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.luigibosca.com.ar

Renacer

This Chilean-owned winery creates

the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tour that includes a
hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen
1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or
261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.
com.ar

Kaiken

This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a

new venture by the prestigious Chilean
winery Montes. Big and powerful
wines, destined for fame. TEL (0261)
4761111-14 INT 113 / Movile (0261-153
530 789) /Movile (0261-155 509 453)
Kaiken

LOCATIONS REFERENCES

Restaurant
Lodging
Driving time from Mendoza City

LUJAN DE CUYO
Terrazas de los Andes

REFERENCES

Nieto Senetiner

Located in a beautiful old winery in

Chacras, Senetiner was founded in
1888 and makes a great range of wines
and sparkling wines. (261) 496 9099,
Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Lujan de
Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

Melipal

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches

make Melipal one of the most
exclusive wineries to visit. (0261)
4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Lujn
de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

Mendel

An old style winery ran by one of

Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar

Via Cobos

Dante Robino

Founded in 1920, an atmospheric oldstyle winery with a modernist, lightfilled tasting room with excellent
view of mountains and vines.
(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com

Septima

A beautifully designed winery with

clear views of the mountains and a
large terrace used for sunset wine
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de
Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

Alpamanta

Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set

in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.
Ideal for families and nature lovers.
Calle Cobos s/n. tel 0261 153468398.
www.alpamanta.com

American winemaker Paul Hobbs

was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.vinacobos.com

Pulenta Estate

Tapiz

Norton

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end

restaurant Terruo and an instructive
wine tour including barrel and
bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta
Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

Cool minimalist design and rich

complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Fav. Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.
www.pulentaestate.com
Old-style cellars contrast with a hightech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
are popular with the locals. (0261) 490
9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Lujn de
Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Belasco de Baquedano

Gleaming modern facility with

fascinating
aroma
room
and
restaurant with Andean view. (0261)
524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.belascomalbec.com

Art Gallery

Chandon

The original foreign investor, Frenchowned Chandon has been making

great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,
Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del Plata

Argentinas most famous female

winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in
the heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

Lagarde

Owner of the oldest white wine in

South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100 year
old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.
San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond.
Lujn de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Casarena

A beautiful mix of old and new, this

winery mixes tradition and modernity
in an old style winery with a super
modern restaurant with splendid views
of the vineyarsd and mountains.
Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.
casarena.com.
Tel 2616967848.
A modern winery in Agrelo. The
winery restaurant Ojo de Agua, has
a delighful setting next to a vineyard
lake.
Bajo Las Cumbres S/N. Agrelo. Tel
2615731688. hospitality@ojodevino.
com

Alta Vista

Masterful mix of modern and

traditional.
Tasting
includes
distinctive Torrontes or single
vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
28

A boutique traditional sparkling wine

producer with gorgeous bubbles that
can be enjoyed from their terrace
overlooking vines. (261) 5242290,
Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.
bodegacruzat.com

Valle de Uco

Mendoza City

Carmelo Patti

Mendozas most famous garagista.

Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin
2614, Lujn de Cuyo.

Familia Cassone

A charming, family owned winery

in a beautiful setting. Try the jasmine
tinted ros amidst the pastoral
splendour of the owners expansive
garden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261)
424 6301.
www.familiacassone.com.ar
Excellent food, great guiding and
first-class wines. The pairings over
lunch make for an unforgettable
culinary experience. (0261) 5537164
- 2614540974. R.N.7, Km 1059,
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com

Decero

Attractive, modern facility with

spectacular views of the mountains
from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Modern, medium size winery on the

main road to Chile just before the
mountains and has a nice family feel
to it. Fav. Wine: Fiano (261)156992890.
R.N.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.
bodegacaelum.com.ar

Ruca Malen

Modern boutique close to Mendoza

riverbed. Big concentrated wines.
(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.
com

Dolium
Chandon

Modern-style Budeguer winery

offers you the chance to blend
wine and art in a warm and relaxed
atmosphere. Its superb terrace is open
until 8pm and is the perfect spot to sip
a glass of Malbec enjoying the sunset.
Reservations required at turismo@
budeguer.com or +549261 6830749www.budeguer.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. Mendoza.

Maip

Trivento

Located in the bucolic splendour of

southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
modern winery has a beautiful
deck set amidst the vineyards and
offers bicycle excursions within the
property. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara,
5517 Maip, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 413
7196. www.trivento.com

Trapiche

Argentinas biggest winery is a mix of

old and new, traditional and industrial,
and has the old train tracks leading
up to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n.
Coquimbito, Maip. www.trapiche.
com.ar

El Enemigo

Achaval Ferrer

Caelum

Budeguer

Ruca Malen

Tasting room where one entire wall

is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. Roque
Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. www.
carlospulentawines

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely

old bodega with lots of character. Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496
0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.
bodegabenegas.com

Cruzat

Maip

Vistalba

Benegas Lynch

Showcase winery designed like a Mayan

temple overlooking vineyards and the
Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.
(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

San Martn

Ojo de Vino

Senetiner

Catena Zapata

Lujn de Cuyo

A completely underground winery

with innovative design and top notch
Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km
30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

One of Argentinas most talented

winemakers
Alejandro
Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.
Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. Tel.261
697 4213

Finca Agostino

Elegant and picturesque winery with

ancient vines and walled orchard.
Offer superb lunches and cookery
classes.
Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. Tel.
2615249358. www.fincaagostino.com

Don Manuel Villafane

25

Modern winery in the wide open

vineyards of southern Maipu.
Intense,
complex
wines.
Art
exhibition all year long.
Ruta 60 s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipu.
Tel. 2615083067. www.dmvwines.com
29

the winery guide

tanks stand in large, cavernous halls.
(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros
2625, Coquimbito, Maip. www.
bodegalarural.com.ar

Cecchin

Diamandes

Officially the second oldest winery in

Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com

Familia Zuccardi

A professional, far-sighted operation.

Attractive restaurant amidst the
vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings.
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas Elegidas

O. Fournier

Carinae

A brand new family run affair, part of the

exciting Vines of Mendoza project. This
is a modern winery in a stunning setting.
0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta
94 (s/n), Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.
com

Small, charming, French-owned winery

offering personal tours and well-honed
wines. Surrounded by vineyards and
olive trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda
2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maip .
www.carinaevinos.com

Domaine Bousquet

Popular, old-style winery with two

museums on the wine. Restaurant
offers gourmet cuisine with a panoramic
view. (0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral
Gutirrez, Maip. www.bodegaslopez.
com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial

VALLE DE UCO

This Uco winery has some great white

wines, a unique stony roof and they
breed their own trout which is served
in the charming restaurant.(0261)
156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,
Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

30

Bodega Masi

Lopez

AMP Cava

Well-stocked
museum
with
invaluable antiques like cowhide
wine presses and buckets. Giant oak

Gimenez Riili

Fascinating Italian job in the heart of

Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especiially the
Amarone inspired varietals and unusual
blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. www.
masitupungato.com

Andeluna

Rutini / La Rural

Most architecturally innovative winery

with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent
lunches in the modernist visitor center.
(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta,
San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

A fine modern winery set in the rural

lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop
terrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481
3501. Perito Moreno 572, Maip. www.
tempusalba.com

Making real vinos de autor, US born

Brennan Firth makes his limited
production wines in a small winery
in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high
end wines, a visit and tasting is with
the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas
Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.
Premium wines made from different
terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city
make it a recommended visit. Gmez
Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maip - (261)
4813201/4668048

Designed like a temple to wine, this ultraconcept winery includes a modern art
gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the
Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n,
Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com

A family winery using organic and

biodynamic principles where you can
see the entire process from the beautiful
green vineyards to the minimal
intervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MA
Saez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.
com.ar

Tempus Alba
Familia Di Tommasso

Salentein

The old-world style tasting room looks

upon dramatic views of vineyards
against mountains. (02622) 423 226
Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

Atamisque

La Azul

Simple, small production winery with not

so simple Malbecs and a small traditional
restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n.
Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.
bodegalaazul.com

Another French transplant to the

Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, this
sizeable operation produces high altitude
Chardonnay, Merlot and Malbec and
now has a popular restaurant serving
excellent tasting menu lunches. Ruta
89. Tupungato. www.domainebousquet.
com Tel 2615274048

The Vines of Mendoza

Best described as a cooperative of wine

lovers around the World who have
all bought a vineyard plot each in Uco
Valley and are making their own wine
in a central winery with experts such
as Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add to
this a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley will
never be the same again.
Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

Diamandes

Modern,
imposing
winery
with
magnificent wines, part of prestigious
French group Clos de los Siete. Calle Silva
S/N. Vistaflores. Tel. 0261 4760695.

Finca Sophenia

Modern, high tech winery in stunning

location. High quality wines overseen by
Matias Michellini. www.sophenia.com.
ar Tel. 02622-154-45622

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most
economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert.
Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and
internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza
street (see below) where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture
can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and
certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which
can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill
equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before
2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and
eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the
arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make
sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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