Fibres, Yarns and Fabric Summary Sheet

Textiles Glossary
Term

Meaning

Acetate

chemically-modified, regenerated cellulose fibres. Can designate

secondary acetate and triacetate.

Acrylic

a generic term for synthetic fibres which are based on more than 85%
acrylonitrile monomer.

Antistatic finish

a chemical treatment applied to a synthetic fibre to reduce the build-up of

static electricity.

Cellulose fibres

any fibre of vegetable origin, including cotton, flax and jute.

Colour-fastness

The resistance of a dye or pigment to a specified agent, such as sunlight

or friction.

Drape

the behaviour of a fabric when suspended.

Dimensional stability
A term used to describe the permanence of the length and width of
a textile.
Fibre

Any substance that is flexible and has a high ratio of length to thickness.

Handle

The quality, volume, or character of a textile, such as softness, determined

by touch.

Heat setting

the rearrangement of polymer chains by the application of heat.

Knit

to make a garment or fabric by looping and entwining yarn, by the means

of either knitting needles or a knitting machine.

Nap

a fibrous surface on a fabric, often a one-way orientation.

Polymer

A very large molecule consisting of many monomers (or small units).

Protein

A natural polymer of amino acids (proteins may be animal or vegetable

origin, although those of most interest in textiles, are animal based).

Synthetic fibres

(in textiles) a fibre produced artificially, by polymerisation reactions.

Weave

to form a fabric by interlacing yarn, usually on a loom.

Yarn

a generic term for a continuous strand (or strands) of textile fibres,

filaments, or material in a suitable form for knitting, weaving or otherwise
intertwining to form a textile fabric.

General Fibre Properties Summary Sheet

Property

Cellulose fibres

Protein fibres

Elasticity

Little elasticity or
resilience; creases
easily.

Dry and
wet
strength

Natural fibres and

polynosics strong
dry and stronger
wet, but viscose
much weaker,
(70%) when wet

Elastic and
resilient
generally resists
creasing; wool
better than silk.
Silk very strong
dry, weaker
when wet; wool
relatively weak
dry and weaker
wet.

Heat
conductio
n

Good conductors,
therefore, feel
cool napped (or
fluffed) to
increase warmth
Non produced:
fibres are
moisture
absorbent
Tendency to
shrink unless
treated

Poor conductors
(good
insulators),
therefore, feel
warm
Non produced:
fibres are
moisture
absorbent
Wool susceptible
to felting and
shrinkage

Moisture
absorbenc
y

High, therefore,
comfortable to
wear; longer to
dry; dyes easily

High, therefore,
comfortable to
wear; longer to
dry; dyes easily

Comfortable to
wear; quicker
to dry; difficult
to dye; less
shrinkage

Resistance
to mould
growth
Resistance
to dry
heat

Tendency to allow
mould growth

Wool can allow

mildew if stored
damp
Sensitive to dry
heat

Generally
resistant to
mildew
Sensitive to dry
heat; can melt
when ironing

Effects of
alkalis

Cotton, linen and

polynosic
unaffected;
viscose slightly
less resistant

Attacked by
strongly alkaline
conditions; need
to use neutral
pH detergents

Effects of

Generally easily

Unaffected

Cellulose
acetate slightly
less resistant
than viscose;
triacetate
unaffected
Unaffected

Static
electricity

Dimension
al stability

Naturals very
resistant;
regenerated fibres
affected by high
temperatures

Celluloseester fibres
More elastic
and resilient
that cellulose
but less than
protein fibres
Weakest fibres;
cellulose
acetate weaker
when wet;
cellulose
triacetate
relatively
unaffected
when wet.
Not as good as
cellulosic
fibres,
therefore, dont
feel as cool
Some static
produced,
therefore, soil
low attraction
Cellulosic fibres

Synthetic
fibres
Generally high
resilience and
crease
resistance
Nylon and
polyester very
strong and
mostly
unaffected wet;
acrylics and
modacrylics
generally weak.
Poor conductors,
therefore feel
warm; sheer
fabrics are
cooler.
Much static
produced,
therefore, soil
attraction
Normally no
shrinkage if heat
set; resistance to
mould growth
Very low,
therefore, very
quick to dry;
special dyeing
techniques
essential
Generally
resistant to
mildew
Sensitive to dry
heat; can melt
when ironing;
can heat set
pleats and
creases.
Unaffected

Generally

acids

damaged

Effects of
chlorine
bleaches

Unaffected as
long as well
rinsed

Seriously
damaged

Unaffected

Effects of
sunlight

Good resistance

Weakened and
yellowed

Resistant by
cellulose
acetate more
than cellulose
triacetate

affected except
for nylon: less
resistant
Generally
affected but
nylon may be
affected
Nylon gradually
damaged;
polyester
resistant; acrylic
very resistant

Soft and Hard Spun Yarns

Soft Spun Yarns
Less twisted
Less compact thus more air spaces and
fibre ends protruding above yarn
surface
Yarn weaker
Yarn less elastic
More crease resistant fibres less firmly
held in place can more easily return to
position
Softer
Fuzzier
Thicker
More insulating
Warmer handle
Slower drying
Less lustrous
Less durable
Associated with end uses in which
appearance and handle are significant
factors e.g. soft furnishings, curtaining,
etc.

Hard Spun Yarns

More twisted
More compact thus less air spaces and
fibre ends have less chance of protruding
above yarn surface
Yarn stronger
Yarn more elastic
Less crease resistant fibres held firmly
in place and thus more readily over
strained and distorted
Harder
Smoother
Finer
More conducting
Cooler handle
Quicker drying
More lustrous
More durable
Associated with end-uses in which
strength and durability are significant
factors e.g. work-wear, sewing yarns,
etc.

Properties based on fabric structure

Construction
Weaves plain

Weaves twill

Weaves sateen

Fabric properties
Many interlacings and high thread count give:
Higher durability, higher strength, higher firmness, higher cover fact,
greater body, higher stability, higher wind repellence, higher water
repellence (dependent on finish), greater stiffness, poorer drape, higher
flam retardancy (fibre type factor being equal).
Fewer interlacings and lower thread count give:
Greater flexibility, improved drape, greater air and water permeability,
greater porosity, lower cover factor, lower stability tendency to yarn
(seam) slippage and ravelling or fraying, poor durability.
Fabric structures with float yarns such as satin and sateens give:
Greater lustre, greater smoothness, greater flexibility, greater resiliency,

Knits

Laces

Braids
Non-woven

Polymer
films

lower surface stability tendency to snag and ravel.

Interlacing loop structure gives:
Greater extensibility and elasticity, improved drape, greater porosity,
greater resiliency, greater bulk (than weaves), greater instability
tendency to snagging and ravelling (e.g. hosiery).
Knotted and twisted yarn gives:
Open and porous structure, lower durability, less body, lower stability
tendency to unravel and snag.
Diagonal, interlacings gives:
Excessive stretch, easy draping but unstable shape.
Stabilised fibre mat structure such as felt:
Low cost (disposable), greater thickness, greater stiffness, board structure,
no tendency to fray or ravel, good absorbency (depending on fibre
content), low strength, low elasticity, reduce drape, lack of hand
Non-fibrous film structure gives:
Inherent water and soil repellence, easy cleaning, low or non-existent air
and water permeability and porosity, low strength, poor drape.

End-use selection criteria

Selection
criteria
Appearance
Durability
Comfort

Safety
Care
requirements
Special
requirements
Cost

Specific performance factors

Mainly involves subjective consumer assessments, but includes factors
such as colour, crease recovery, pleating, and whiteness.
Includes fabric breaking force, fabric tearing force, seam breaking force,
seam slippage, abrasion and pilling resistance.
Like appearance, this involves significant subjective consumer
assessments, but could include factors such as stretch, stiffness, drape
and moisture absorbency.
Normally include flammability and toxicity factors.
Includes the selection of appropriate care treatments by assessing effects
on colourfastness, dimensional stability and general appearance.
Crease resistance, water repellence, resistance to biological attack, soil
and stain resistance, and flame retardancy are common.
A most important criterion in practice but needs to be linked with
performance characteristics to determine value.