Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Europe 5 Switzerland PDF
Europe 5 Switzerland PDF
Europe 5 Switzerland PDF
1118
1119
Switzerland
HIGHLIGHTS
FAST FACTS
Area 41,285 sq km (similar to the
Netherlands)
ATMs Available everywhere
Budget Sfr40 to Sfr60 per day, excluding
transport
Capital Bern
Famous for cheese, the Matterhorn,
clocks, banking
Money Swiss franc (Sfr); A$1 = Sfr0.93;
CA$1 = Sfr1.10; 1 = Sfr1.57;
100 = Sfr1.04; NZ$1 = Sfr0.80;
UK1 = Sfr2.34; US$1 = Sfr1.22
Languages French, German, Italian,
Romansch
Population 7.4 million
Phrases gruezi (hello, good day), merci vielmal (thank you very much), adieu (goodbye),
sprechen sie Englisch? (do you speak English?)
TRAVEL HINT
Drinking before a toast is unforgivable and will lead to seven years of bad sex or so the
superstition goes.
ROAMING SWITZERLAND
Start in Bern, then hit Zermatt, Interlaken and the Jungfrau region, Lucerne and Zrich. Extra
time? Explore Ticino.
If they decide to shoot Switzerland: The Movie, count on Heidi playing the innocent heroine,
but well bet its James Bond, and not Peter, cast in the sexy hero role. Just because its easy to
envision rosy-faced goat herders yodelling to a melody of clinking cowbells, dont assume the
Swiss are as straight-laced as they seem. After all, this is the country that brought you absinthe
SWITZERLAND
Tsch
Zermatt
ITALY
Dufourspitze
(4634m)
Matterhorn
(4478m)
Great St
Bernard Pass
Gryon
FRANCE
Geneva
GENEVA
N1
VAUD
Martigny
Sion
Verbier
Bruson
N9
VALAIS
Simplon
Pass
N8
N6
Murten
Creux du Van
Mtiers
T
N
er
iv
e R
Rh
NEUCHTEL
Neuchtel
Noiraigue
JURA
Saas
Fee
Gornergrat (3090m)
Stans
Lake
Maggiore
Lugano
Locarno
Lake
Lugano
Bellinzona
ITALY
Swiss
National
Park
Lake Lucerne
(Vierwaldstttersee)
BERN
N1
Burgdorf
Mt
Pilatus
(2120m)
Sarnen
Lucerne
N14
LUCERNE
Guarda
Zernez
Scuol
Sargans
Glarus
SCHWYZ
Schwyz
Rigi
ZUG
Zug
N2
er
Solothurn
iv
eR
Aar
Biel
La Chauxde-Fonds
Le Locle
Moutier
SOLOTHURN
Saignelgier
St Ursanne
GLARUS
Chur
Altdorf
Klosters
Flims-Laax
Mt
BERN
Titlis
Engelberg
Davos
Brienz
Fribourg
Lake
(3239m)
Thun
Arosa
Lake
Meiringen
Oberalp
Neuchtel
iver
Lake Brienz
N12
Pass
ne R
Thun
Rhi
Spiez
Interlaken
FRIBOURG
URI
GRAUBNDEN
Zuoz
Grindelwald
Lauterbrunnen
N13
Wengen
San
Mrren
St Gotthard
Gruyres
Bernardino
Lausanne
Schilthorn
St Moritz
Jungfraujoch
Pass
Pass
(2970m)
Gimmelwald Jungfrau
Vevey
Lake Geneva
Bernina
(4158m)
Lenk
Maloja
(Lac Lman)
Pass
Montreux
TICINO
Leukerbad
N9
N2
CransVisp
Brig
Montana
Leysin
LIECHTENSTEIN
VADUZ
ST GALLEN
Lake
Zrich
Limmat
River
BASEL
Olten
Delmont
Basel
EuroAirport
Buchs
N13
N3
N1
Herisau
Appenzell
Zrich
Aarau
N7
ZRICH
Baden Winterthur
AARGAU
N3
Rhine
Riv
er
SCHAFFHAUSEN
Schaffhausen
Stein am
Rhein THURGAU
N4
Frauenfeld
Lake Constance
(Bodensee)
St Gallen
GERMANY
AUSTRIA
50 km
30 miles
FRANCE
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
0
0
ENVIRONMENT
Rhine R
iver
THE CULTURE
Switzerlands name may stand for everything
from knifes to watches, but dont expect this nation to take a stand for anyone other than itself.
Militarily neutral for centuries and armed to the
teeth to make sure it stays that way, in Switzerland its the Swiss Way or the highway.
Living quietly with your neighbours is a
national obsession and there are strict rules
about noise levels. Good manners infuse the
national psyche and politeness is the cornerstone of all social intercourse. Always shake
hands when being introduced to a Swiss, and
kiss on both cheeks to greet and say goodbye
to friends. Dont forget to greet shopkeepers
when entering shops.
Most locals are of Germanic origin, and
this is shown in the breakdown of the four
national languages. German speakers account
for around 64% of the population, French
19%, Italian 8% and Romansch under 1%.
Around 20% of the countrys residents are
non-Swiss citizens.
SWITZERLAND
HISTORY
S W I T Z E R L A N D 1121
and LSD, and is known as much for secret bank accounts as for fondue and droopy-roofed
chalets.
Melting in your mouth as smoothly as its rich chocolates, Switzerland is an easy country to get
addicted to. Not only does it offer the kind of natural beauty Hollywood filmmakers salivate over,
it also dishes up enough adrenalin-pumping fuel to keep your inner junkie satisfied for weeks
(think out-of-this world hiking to flying through the sky on a pair of manmade wings). Winter
or summer, theres always something to do, be it splashing out at an ultraglam celebrity-heavy
ski resort like St Moritz or partying in the more down-to-earth mountain hamlet of Zermatt.
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
1120 S W I T Z E R L A N D H i s t o r y
1122 T R A N S P O R T G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
READING UP
TRANSPORT
lonelyplanet.com
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Ambulance %144
Fire %118
Most international airlines fly into Switzerland. Zrich and Geneva are the two busiest
international airports. The budget market
changes frequently, so keep an eye out for
new entrants and beware that current players
might abandon certain routes.
Air Berlin (code BB; %0848 737 800; www
.airberlin.com)
easyJet (code EZ; %0848 888 222; www.easyjet.com)
flybe (code BEE; %1392 268 500; www.flybe.com)
German Wings (code 4U; www.germanwings.com)
Helvetic (code OAW; %043 557 90 99; www
.helvetic.com)
SkyEurope (code NE; %043 557 90 99; www.sky
europe.com)
Bus
Bus services are available with Eurolines (%0900
573 747; www.eurolines.com) to Eastern Europe,
Austria, Spain, Germany and Portugal, but
distances are long. The UK-based Busabout
(%020-7950 1661; www.busabout.com) operates summer services from Bern to Paris, and from
Lauterbrunnen (for Interlaken) to Paris and
Venice.
B E R N I n f o r m a t i o n 1123
BERN
pop 122,900
Train
Switzerland is a hub for train travel to the
rest of the continent. Zrich is the busiest
international terminus with trains to Austria,
Germany and Italy, among other destinations.
There are several trains daily to Geneva and
Lausanne from Paris.
GETTING AROUND
Bicycle
INFORMATION
Contact %0900 576 747 for help locating a
doctor or dentist.
Bern Tourismus (%031 328 12 28; www.berninfo
Car
Bus
Train
Trains are clean, reliable, frequent and as fast
as the terrain allows. Theyre costly: if you
plan on taking more than one or two trips
and dont have a European rail pass, its best to
purchase a travel pass (see opposite). All major
Old Town
Pick up a city map from the tourist office
(Sfr1) and start exploring. Dont pay too much
attention to the map, though. The best places
are often found on detours down skinny side
alleys. Stumble into a funky retro cellar shop
selling penis-shaped peppermint candies
alongside chunky silver rings. Keep an eye
out for a gallery selling all sorts of shells and
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
lonelyplanet.com
1124 B E R N
engra
To French
ben
Embassy
20
11
(400m);
12
Zentrum
Paul Klee
(1km)
Thunstr
8
To German
Embassy (250m)
Thun
Platz
eg
w
str
To US Embassy
(500m)
Kirchenfeldstr
Th
un
Marienstr
To Camping
Eichholz (1.5km);
Airport (8km)
14
25
ec
Sulgen kstr
tr
ers
S ef
nst r a
t ig e
TRANSPORT
Bus Station...........................27 C2
Eiger
Platz
ENTERTAINMENT
Gaskessel...........................(see 14)
Quasimodo........................(see 18)
Reitschule.............................26 C1
EATING
Altes Tramdepot...................20 F2
Cesary..................................21 D2
Il Grissino.............................22 D2
Markt-halle..........................23 C2
Migros.................................24 D2
Sous Le Pont......................(see 26)
Eig
r
ttst
ma
hle
rzt
wa
Sch
To University
Hospital (300m)
DRINKING
Dampfzentrale.....................25 D4
Laupenstr
Effingerstr
tr
9
ch
Bogens
D2
F2
E2
D4
E3
D2
SLEEPING
Hotel Glocke Backpackers
Bern.................................18 D2
Hotel Landhaus....................19 F2
tr
tels
Mit
F4
C2
F4
F4
F3
D2
E4
F4
C2
C2
F2
Belp
st
Vere
INFORMATION
Austrian Embassy...................1
Bern Tourismus......................2
British Embassy.......................3
Canadian Embassy.................4
Dutch Embassy.......................5
Internet Pub..........................6
Irish Embassy..........................7
Italian Embassy.......................8
Main Post Office...................9
Stauffacher..........................10
Tourist Office.......................11
na
mi
Aare River
Tour Departures
eih
tr
ts
at
nm
i
Ra
ngass
Bahnhof- 10
platz
ors
ins-w
eg
-weg
Senn
La
Se
Muristr
r
se
os
Gr
asse
erg
se
Neue
apids
Waterfalls/R
Am A
Kornhausbrcke
Brunn
ttestr
Sch
Falkenplatz
st
2
Train
Station
(Hauptbahnhof)
27
Bo
Spe
ll
ich
we
rk
erg
ass
e
6
Aarb
erge
Ho
dl
er
st
Aa
re
Kursaal
Lorrainebrcke
26
fts
ha
lsc
el
es
gassh
Zeu
alde
22 ghausg
asse16
Waisen18
asse
hausplatz
Postg
21
Rathau
sgasse
24
e
sgasse
lgass
Kornhauspl Kram
Mark
tigkeit
Spita
Brengasse
erech
t
gasse
G
tz
la
ergp
platz
sse
b
17
Old
Town
n
e
13
n ga
Bub
23 Schauplatzgasse
Mnstergasse Junker
AmthausgasseTheaterpl
BundesBudenberggasse
15
Herrengasse
platz Kochergasse
Bundeshuser
gasse
(Parliament)
Badgasse
Bundes
e
hifflaub
ain
Aarstr Sc
Munzr
tr
nzlis
Sch
g
in
dr
r
No
r
be
er
G
m Br
19
Altenbergstr
rias
tr
E
D
se
as
ng
Rosengarten
rst
lac
ke
To Stade de Suisse
(1.5km)
ita
Sp
0
0
Vikto
rgas
erst
Seil
rst
lle
Ha
str
jou
nbi
Mo
str
ler
Sid
Hirschengraben
tr
ns
ke
ss
tra
as
Br
rst
tr
ilis
ilistr
arz
rain M
arz
es
und
Aare
we
mm
Da
ge
BERN
Bernastr
Dalmaziq
ua
hstr
bac
tten
Wy
hr
in
Hotelgasse
sse
sstra
hau
Korn
To N1
Motorway
str
our
ze
g
ng
Mottastr
str
utzen
Schan
Lusienstr
Helvetia
izil
ar
M ahn
b
nstr
Duf
SWITZERLAND
li
att
nm
ze
h
Sc
tr
us
fra
ng
Ju
lhlz
st
rk
b
eu
tr
ns
pe
Al
Dh
eg
erw
Uf
ina
tr
les
rm
ap
ie
ain
Altenbergr
Sem
Muristal
de
rsta
aue
rg
Aa
tutz
rlis
Klste
den
rstr
be
u
La
str
tr
s
gg
sse
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
Einstein Museum
The small Einstein Haus (%031 312 00 91; www.einstein
-bern.ch; Kramgasse 49; adult/student & senior Sfr6/4.50;
h10am-7pm Apr-Oct, 1-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat Feb, Mar
& Novmid-Dec, closed mid-DecJan) was given a facelift
Swimming
In summer the open-air Marzili pools (www
.aaremarzili.ch; admission free; h May-Sep), beside
the Aare River, are the perfect place to get
a tan. If youre a strong swimmer, take a
dip in the river itself. The pools are a good
starting point for a fast float downstream.
Beware the current can be very swift.
SLEEPING
Bern has budget options in stumbling distance
of its eateries and bars.
Camping Eichholz (% 031 961 26 02; www
.campingeichholz.ch; Strandweg 49; camp site/person/car
B E R N S l e e p i n g 1125
Sfr9/7.50/3.50, per person bungalow from Sfr18; hMaySep; i) Camp sites are comfortable (not too
EATING
Wall-to-wall cafs and restaurants line popular Brenplatz and Theaterplatz.
Migros (Marktgasse 46; mains Sfr3-7) A supermarket
that also has a cheap self-service restaurant
with an international menu.
Markthalle (Bubenbergplatz 9; mains Sfr5-8) Slurp
down pizza, kebabs and spaghetti standing
at a Formica table or perched on bar stools
in this buzzing central arcade filled with all
sorts of cheap eateries.
Sous le Pont (%031 306 69 55; Schtzenmatte; mains
Sfr5-15; h11.30am-2pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 6pm-2am
Sat) Organic meat and lots of vegetarian op-
SWITZERLAND
500 m
0.3 miles
lonelyplanet.com
1126 F R I B O U R G , N E U C H T E L & T H E J U R A
SPLURGE!
FRIBOURG, NEUCHTEL
& THE JURA
From the evocative medieval cantonal capitals of Fribourg and Neuchtel to the mysterious
green hills and deep dark forests of the Jura Canton, the countrys northwest corner proffers a
wealth of sights and escapes well off the beaten
track, yet still an easy day trip from Bern.
It was in the deepest darkest depths of Couvet in the Val de Travers otherwise dubbed the
Pays des Fes (Fairyland) that absinthe was
first distilled in 1740 and produced commercially in 1797. From 1910, following Switzerlands prohibition of the wickedly alcoholic
and ruthlessly bitter aniseed drink, distillers
of the so-called devil in the bottle in the Val
de Travers moved underground. In March
2005 Switzerland lifted its absinthe ban and
the Blackmint Distillerie Kbler & Wyss (%032 861
14 69; www.blackmint.ch; Rue du Chteau 7, Mtiers) distilled
its first true and authentic batch of the mythical fe verte (green fairy) from valley-grown
wormwood. Mix one part crystal-clear liqueur
with five parts water to make it green.
Val de Travers also attracts hikers, who
come to marvel at the enormous Creux du Van
abyss. This spectacular crescent moon wall, a
product of glacial erosion, interrupts the habitually green rolling countryside in startling
fashion it is just 1km long, but plunges 440m
to the bottom (the first 200m is a sheer stony
drop). The round-trip hike can take up to five
hours depending on the route.
IT ALL HAPPENED IN SWITZERLAND
Albert Einstein came up with his theories of relativity, including the E=mc
formula, while working in Bern.
Switzerland gave birth to the Worldwide Web at the acclaimed CERN
research institute outside Geneva.
Val de Travers, near Neuchtel, claims to
be the birthplace of the mythical green
alcohol, absinthe.
Chemist Albert Hofmann was using LSD
to conduct migraine cure tests in Basel
in 1943 when he accidentally absorbed
the compound through his fingertips
and became the first man to trip on acid.
lonelyplanet.com
L A K E G E N E VA R E G I O N G e n e v a ( G e n v e , G e n f , G i n e v r a ) 1127
Information
Cantonal Hospital (%022 372 33 11; Rue Micheli-duCrest 24; h24hr)
Sleeping
Camping Pointe la Bise (%022 752 12 96; Chemin
de la Bise 19; camp sites per adult/tent/car Sfr7.50/7/6.50;
hApr-Oct; gE) Camping spots in an appealing
lakeshore location.
Hme St-Pierre (%022 310 37 07; www.homestpierre
.ch; Cour St-Pierre 4; dm Sfr27, s/d with shared bathroom
Sfr40/60;i) This women-only hostel sees a lot
Eating
Migros (Rue des Pquis; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat)
Self-caterers can stock up at the Migros, where
youll also find baguettes (Sfr2) and sandwiches
(Sfr3.60) in its self-service restaurant.
Buvette des Bains (%022 738 16 16; Quai du MontBlanc 30; admission to jetty adult Sfr2, 6-15yr Sfr1; dishes
Sfr6-14; h8am-11pm, sometimes reduced in winter) The
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
GENEVA
A
12
INFORMATION
Canadian Consulate.....................1 A1
Cantonal Hospital........................ 2 C6
Exchange Office...........................3 B4
French Consulate.........................4 B6
Genve Tourism...........................5 B4
Main Post Office........................(see 5)
New Zealand Consulate................6 A1
Police Station...............................7 B4
UK Consulate...............................8 A2
Video Club...................................9 B4
Jardin
Botanique
Rue
Ave de l'Ariana
aix
e la P
Ave d
Av
ed
ne
Place des
Nations
M
ot
ta
ey
pp
e
Gi
us
e
Parc
Mon Repos
Av
Av
ue
SLEEPING
City Hostel.................................13 B3
Hme St-Pierre...........................14 B5
de
ce
an
Fr
Montbrillant
Rue de
en
Ru
de
is
Bu
es
uis
ed
Pq
Rue
lan
ou
t-B
tam
on
-P
lan
Rue
Ber de
ne
us
pe
id
hil
ip
eP
-Fati
ierre
Rue
P
Rue
Fontade la
ine
eP
re
mb
Av
ict
et
de
Ro
ch
Gare des
on Eaux Vives
t
em
ler
od
ueR
tiq ue
G Ch
al ar
la le
rd s-
lve
He
Place
Emile
Guynot
Ro
ute
ns
io
st
de
Ba
sT
es
ra
nc
sd
ur
Co
d
Blv
-H
nd
ns
Ru
e
Ga Imb
llo er
ix t
ece
ex
ina
tio
as
rve
nt d'A
Blvd du Po
R
Vers ue
onn
rd
sB
u
aq
Bl
sophes
Ea
Fe
de
des Philo
e
Ru
e
ad
alc
-D
lvd
ux
es
d
ue
1D
ive
e
oz
es
vd
Qu
22
de R
e
tav
G
ai
To Camping
Pointe la
Bise (7km)
or
-A
Rue
n
20
14
dRu
Place C Ru
e
10
Neuve roix e de
-R la
ou
ge
Place du
Bourg-deFour
Rue de Caroug
Ave Henri-Dunant
Jet
d'Eau
u3
19
Gr
en
Ba
ins
Lake Geneva
om
es
17
Pr
ed
C5
C5
B4
B4
pe
ie
Ru
TRANSPORT
CGN Boat Departure..................23
CGN Ticket Booth......................24
Genve Roule.............................25
International Bus Terminal..........26
Bains des
Pquis
Pont des
Prom
Place du Bergues 23
Rhne Q
du Lenade
uai d
ac
u G
24
Jardin
nra
Rue
lGuis Anglais
du R
Rue
an
hn
des
e
la C
onf
dra
16
tion
Rue Vignier
Leschot
B
B5
B5
A5
C5
Pont du
le
Rousseau Mont-Blanc
orrater
ail
uM
ed
ve
Plaine
Rue
d
de
Grenes Vieux
adiers Plainpalais
Av
Ar
ufou
ral D
on
v
-Fa
e la C
Rue d
n
du G
ges
eor
Blvd G
Av
Al
DRINKING
Alhambar...................................19
Flanagans Irish Bar.....................20
LUsine.......................................21
Prtexte.....................................22
ed
Ru
Place
Bel-Air
Rue
Blvd de Saint-Georges
e
ild
ot
Cl
teRue
ain
S
Gou
e
rgas
ed
5
R
et Mon ue 26
t-B du
lan
c
Pont de la
Machine
es
B4
B5
C4
C3
Jete des
Pquis
Rue
Princdu
e
az
Pont
d'le
e
n
Rh Rue du Stand
ed
antepoul
Pont de la
Coulouvrenire
Quai des
Forces Motrices
21
Rue de Ch
9 Ru
au
Se
u
aire
sse
ou
du
Volt
eR
Ru
jet
Rue
yon
de L
Rue
15
Ru
ett
Rue de
l'Ancien-Port
Q
ua
Rue de
s
Gares
erv
To Servette
Clinique (500m)
a
Qu
Gare de
Cornavin
25
aS
Rue du Conseil-Gen
el
Blvd Jam
es
-F
Rue de la Prairie
ed
des
Ru
ed
eM
Rue
18
le
de
la N
avig
Rue
atio
de Z
n
u
rich
Ru
ed
eM
ont
hou
x
Ru
Ru
Ru
dP
ilson
ran
ne
ed
uG
To Airport (4km);
CERN (8km)
san
eL
ed
au
13
Quai W
Rue
Fer
rier
ai
l
Va
Ru
Ro Rue
ths
ch
ild
EATING
Al-Amir......................................15
Brasserie Lipp.............................16
Buvette de Bains........................17
Migros.......................................18
ern
Vi
ve
eF
es
To Australian
Consulate (1km)
n
ausa
de L
du ex
in
em o nn
Ch -Sac
t
6
i
t
Pe
500 m
0.3 miles
11
SWITZERLAND
To Lausanne
(60km)
Place
Edouard
Claparde
d
Blv Ro
ute
de
Flo
de
Ma
lag
nou
To Chamonix
ris
san
(81km)
t
To Auberge de Carouge (2km);
La Plage (2km)
lonelyplanet.com
L A K E G E N E VA R E G I O N L a u s a n n e 1129
International buses depart from Place Dorcire. Destinations include London (Sfr145, 17
hours, twice weekly) and Barcelona (Sfr100,
10 hours, twice weekly).
Train connections include Zrich (Sfr76,
three hours, hourly), Interlaken (Sfr63, three
hours, hourly), Paris (Sfr103 by TGV, 3
hours, eight times daily), Hamburg (Sfr280,
10 hours, at least daily), Milan (Sfr81, four
hours, at least daily) and Barcelona (Sfr100,
nine hours, at least daily).
Genve Roule (%022 740 13 43; www.geneveroule.ch;
Place de Montbrillant 17; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm
Sun), next to the train station, has free daily
LAUSANNE
pop 118,200
station.
SWITZERLAND
1128 L A K E G E N E VA R E G I O N G e n e v a
1130 L A K E G E N E VA R E G I O N M o n t re u x
Sleeping
There are trains to Geneva (Sfr18.80, 50 minutes, three hourly), Bern (Sfr30, 70 minutes,
one or two hourly) and Interlaken Ost (Sfr52,
two hours, two hourly). For boat services, see
p1129 in the Geneva section.
MONTREUX
pop 22,800
VALAIS (WALLIS)
Its pretty hard not to be seduced by Matterhorn country, where endless panoramic
vistas and breathtaking views win over even
the toughest critics. An area of extraordinary
natural beauty, the Valais boasts the 10 highest
mountains in Switzerland all over 4000m.
ZERMATT
pop 5500
One word says it all: Matterhorn. Synonymous with Switzerland, the most famous peak
in the Alps keeps solitary vigil over this skiing,
mountaineering and hiking hotspot.
Zermatt is small and car-free, but tiny
electric taxis and vans whisk guests about.
Bahnhofstrasse is the main street, but street
names arent used. Zermatt Tourismus (%027 966
81 00; www.zermatt.ch; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm MonFri, 8.30am-noon Sat) is beside the train station.
Activities
Arguably the countrys best ski resort, Zermatt Bergbahnen (%027 966 01 01; http://bergbahnen.
zermatt.ch/e; lift ticket winter/summer Sfr72/60, ski & boot hire
Sfr45) caters mainly to intermediate and expert
VA L A I S ( W A L L I S ) Ze r m a t t 1131
TICINO (TESSIN)
The Mediterranean air is hot and spicy, the
attitude laid-back, with cafs in the colourful
piazzas buzzing under a brilliant blue sky. Melodic notes and lots of hand gestures, steaming
plates of pasta, creamy gelatos. Did you cross
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
1132 T I C I N O ( T E S S I N ) L o c a r n o
the border into Italy? No, this is just the Switzerland that defies the stereotypes.
South of the Alps, Ticino (Tessin in German) enjoys an unmistakable Italian flavour,
and Italian is the official language. Although
not technically in Ticino, weve included the
resort towns of St Moritz and Flims-Laax in
this section because of their proximity.
LOCARNO
A rambling red enclave of Mediterraneanstyle houses, piazzas and arcades ending at
the northern end of Lake Maggiore, Locarno
enjoys more hours of sunshine than anywhere
else in Switzerland.
Piazza Grande is the towns centre. Gulp
shots, smoke Cuban cigars and check emails
at the Pardo Bar (%091 752 21 23; Via della Motta 3; per
hr Sfr20; h11am-1am). The tourist office (%091 751
922 60 80; Corso Pestalozzi 3; h10am-1am Mon-Fri, 4pm1am Sat) is buzzing with Luganos beautiful
datacomm.ch; Via Toretta 13; dm Sfr25, s/d Sfr36/72; hMarNov; n) has basic dorms, smiley staff and a
ST MORITZ
pop 4900
LUGANO
pop 26,100
lonelyplanet.com
FLIMS-LAAX
They say if the snow aint falling anywhere
else, youll surely find some around FlimsLaax. These towns, along with tiny Falera,
20km west of Chur, form a single ski area
known as the Weisses Arena (White Arena),
with 220km of slopes catering for all levels.
Laax in particular is known as a mecca for
snowboarders, who spice the local nightlife
up, too. The resort is barely two hours by train
and bus (less by car) from Zrich airport.
The main tourist office (%081 920 92 00; www
.alpenarena.ch; Via Nova; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat
May-Oct, 8am-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Apr) is in Flims-Dorf.
Z R I C H O r i e n t a t i o n 1133
ZRICH
pop 351,700
ORIENTATION
Compact and easy to navigate, Zrich is at
the northern end of Lake Zrich. The Limmat
River splits the city centre.
INFORMATION
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
pop 14,400
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
ZRICH
A
To Hotel Formula 1
(9.3km);
Unique Zrich
Airport (10km)
Zrichberg
Win
tr
ers
hur
tert
To Basel (113km);
Bern (125km)
400 m
0.2 miles
To
sse Zoo Zrich (1.5km);
bstga
Masoala Rainforest (1.5km)
u
Hadla
To Indochine (500m)
erg
issb
Ge weg
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
us
str
ha
rn
rw
er
Rigistr
at
lqu
rst
INFORMATION
Bellevue Apotheke.....................1
Cantonal University Hospital..... 2
Main Post Office........................3
Orell Fssli Bookshop.................4
Police Station.............................5
Quanta......................................6
To
STA Travel.................................
ble 7
rst 8
Zrich Tourism...........................
r
10
Ri
ve
ng
str
ete
som
La
Ga
tr
Sih
ai
llu
ang
gels
te
ss
str
ad
Gl
u
leq
ai
str
at
ss
str
Lim
f
se
ga
uai
Sihlq
Jo
str
um
Ne
ng
tr
ds
C5
D4
A3
B4
C4
C4
C3
B3
Vo
Au
a
nr
Ko
21
u
Ne
B5
B2
B5
B3
str
ch
Zoll
Mu
seum
str
Train Station
(Hauptbahnhof) 8
fpla
tz
fstr
mi
st
str
er
nho
Bah
tr
Pe
lik
an
s
Qu
ai
Ble
ich
Uto
Kreu
zbh
lstr
rstr
To US Consulate
(75m); Zrichhorn
Park (1km)
tr
zst
eu
Kr
ikers
Zoll
tr
fou
Du
lds
efe
20
Se
i
qua
Arboretum
ACTIVITIES
EATING
19
at
eg
eg
ltw
Ze
str
e
Th
Gu
ne
Ge
fer
lho
str
is
ral
Lake Zrich
(Zrichsee)
Ste
de
Sta
24
an
rstr
str
ies
inw
inge
tr
cke Bellevue- 1
platz
i Br
Qua
en
er
w
dorf s
ofstr
ai
tqu
ma Uto Quai
Lim
Brkliplatz
rid
TRANSPORT
Eurolines Office......................(see 23)
International Buses...................23 B3
Lake Steamers Landing Stage...24 C6
Limmat Boat Terminus.............25 C3
hg
rc Obe
Ki
14
Brsenstr
Cla
rstr
cke
DRINKING
Acapulco.................................21 A2
Oliver Twist.............................22 C4
Wste Bar..............................(see 14)
Hott
Kunsthaus
Sto
EATING
Caf Schober...........................16 C5
Schoffel...................................17 C4
Spaghetti Factory...................(see 13)
Sprngli...................................18 B5
Sternen Grill.............................19 C5
Tibits by Hiltl........................... 20 C6
Mnstergasse
Heimplatz
Grossmnster
h
Bahn
lh
l
16
tr
str graben
str
nia
Ura
we
n
ln
Se
zli
str
ke
lac
Ta
17
Str 11
Gassen
In
Mnsterplatz
tr
Posts
9
18
lst
str
erg
ichb
Zr
kt
mar
ns
ne
ser
Ka
er
ee
rall
l R
iv
Sih
Ge
ssn
e
ens
t
Kas
ern
aus
t
ga
sse
str
au
Ta
istr
13
Rinder markt
22
Augustin
St Peter
se
Lindenhof
g
we
ln
Se
en
rab
nn
Re
Sihlstr
tr
rds
We
se
Mh l egas
Gloriastr
rgas
Sc
Schipfe
Uraniastr
4
Oetenbachgasse
en
z
an
Rm
stle
str
str
er
er
ll
ck
tr
Kn
st
us
rg
en
rab Seile
eng
sch
ha
15
Hir
eris
str
Zhringer
Niederdorf str
Ust
ug
Bahnhofquai
Ze
SIGHTS
Bahnhof Brck
lke
no
Ka
nho
str
Fa
Bah
nst
ng
ne
ilit
rst
SLEEPING
City Backpacker.......................13 C4
Hotel Otter..............................14 C5
Martahaus...............................15 C4
Ne
ge
quai
La
25
str
ard
nh
Leo
Au
f der Mauer
12
Limmat
str
Universitt-Str
Weinbergstr
23
Sih
SWITZERLAND
Ko
ks
Li
gstr
n- ber
se
ude
as
Fre
To Supermarket (500m);
Zri-West (500m); Labor
Bar (1km); Labyrinth (1km)
tr
Hadlaubs
Rigistr
Z R I C H S i g h t s 1135
SLEEPING
SWITZERLAND
1134 Z R I C H
lonelyplanet.com
Late-night pubs, clubs and discos clutter Niederdorfstrasse and adjoining streets. Zrichs
former industrial quarter has become one
of its hippest neighbourhoods: the muchvaunted Zri-West district starts roughly
west of the train station. Langstrasse, directly
behind the station, is a minor red-light district
with loads of popular bars clustered along
its side streets. Its safe to wander through,
although you may be offered drugs or sex.
Dress well and expect to pay Sfr15 to Sfr30
admission to enter Zrichs clubs.
Wste Bar (%044 251 22 07; Oberdorfstrasse 7) One of
our top choices, this small, groovy spot underneath the Hotel Otter has plush red seats and a
cowhide bar. It sometimes has live music.
Oliver Twist (%044 252 47 10; Rindermarkt 6) English speakers gravitate towards this pub, which
serves Irish, British, Australian and South
African beers. Its a smoky, noisy place, often
standing-room only and somewhat of a meat
market.
Acapulco (%044 272 66 88; Neugasse 56) For something a little more local, plant yourself on one
of the scuffed red leather sofas in this understated, retro 1970s lynchpin of the Zri-West
scene. Bloody Marys are excellent here, as they
come with a tray of the condiments necessary
to spice them to your own taste.
Supermarket (%044 440 20 05; www.supermarket.li;
Geroldstrasse 17; admission from Sfr15) Zrichs number
one club is smaller than the name suggests, but
lonelyplanet.com
C E N T R A L S W I T Z E R L A N D & B E R N E R O B E R L A N D Lu c e r n e 1137
CENTRAL SWITZERLAND
& BERNER OBERLAND
Welcome to the fairy-tale alpine creation they
call the Berner Oberland, a place so silverscreen perfect youll think youre conjuring
it up. This place is like having your cake and
eating it too. Not only can you spend mesmerising hours staring at the sheer, outrageous beauty of those snow-white, jagged,
craggy, so-big-theyre-going-to-swallow-you
mountains found everywhere, you can also
play in them.
LUCERNE
pop 58,600
INTERLAKEN
pop 15,000
Activities
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
1136 Z R I C H D r i n k i n g & C l u b b i n g
Sleeping
The most popular budget accommodation is
on Hauptstrasse, a 15-minute signposted walk
from either train station.
Balmers Herberge (%033 822 19 61; www.balmers
.ch; Hauptstrasse 23; dm/s/d/q with shared bathroom Sfr27/
33/76/132;i) Young Americans have flocked
to this cosy Swiss chalet with a raucous summer-camp feel for more than 50 years its
a great place to meet people and party. One
negative, however, is youll be constantly
harassed to partake in the pricey adventure
sports. If you can resist the temptation to buy,
its a good deal.
Funny Farm (%079 652 61 27; www.funny-farm
.ch; Hauptstrasse; dm Sfr35; s) The towns other
budget powerhouse has a similarly raucous
feel and draws in hordes of Australians. It
revels in its anarchic, ramshackle premises
somewhere halfway between a squat and an
island shipwreck.
Backpackers Villa Sonnenhof (%033 826 71 71;
www.villa.ch; Alpenstrasse 16; dm/d from Sfr33/98;i)
lonelyplanet.com
Widely regarded as the cleanest and most genteel of Interlakens hostels, this place still has
plenty going on. Spacious, renovated rooms
have nice touches, like steamer trunks and
balconies, some with Jungfrau views. Theres
a small kitchen, a lounge and table tennis in
the garden. Reception closes between 11am
and 4pm.
River Lodge (%033 822 44 34; www.riverlodge.ch;
Brienzstrasse 24; dm from Sfr28, s/d Sfr62/84; i) Bungalows line the waterfront and house between
one and four people in bunks. In summer
the hosts encourage you to bring the feather
duvets outside and sleep under the stars by
the water. A communal kitchen and bikes and
kayaks are extra perks.
lonelyplanet.com
C E N T R A L S W I T Z E R L A N D & B E R N E R O B E R L A N D J u n g f r a u R e g i o n 1139
JUNGFRAU REGION
The views get better the further south you
go from Interlaken. In winter the Jungfrau is
a magnet for skiers and snowboarders with
200km of pistes. A one-day ski pass for regional resorts costs Sfr55.
Grindelwald
Picturesque Grindelwald was once a simple
farming village. Today its the largest ski resort
in the Jungfrau, nestled in a valley under the
north face of the Eiger.
Grindelwald Tourism (%033 854 12 12; www.grin
delwald.ch, in German; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat,
9am-noon & 2-5pm Sun Jul-Sep, shorter hr & closed Sun btwn
seasons) is in the town centre at the Sportzen-
Lauterbrunnen
Tiny Lauterbrunnen, with its attractive main
street cluttered with Swiss chalet architecture,
is friendly and down-to-earth. Its known
largely for the impressive Trmmelbach Falls (admission Sfr10; h9am-5pm Apr-Nov), 4km out of town,
where inside the mountain up to 20,000L of
water per second corkscrews through a series
of ravines and potholes shaped by the swirling
waters. A bus from the train station (Sfr3)
takes you to the falls.
Camping Jungfrau (%033 856 20 10; Main St; camp
sites per adult/tent Sfr9/6, cabins per person Sfr25) has excellent facilities, and awesome views of tow-
Gimmelwald
Decades ago an anonymous backpacker scribbled these words in the Mountain Hostels
guest book: If heaven isnt what its cracked up
to be, send me back to Gimmelwald. Enough
said. When the sun is out in Gimmelwald, the
place will take your breath away.
After a long summer hike, bed down in
the barn at Esthers Guesthouse (%033 855 54
88; www.esthersguesthouse.ch; barn accommodation Sfr22,
s/d with shared bathroom Sfr40/80). Offered June to
Mrren
Arrive in Mrren on a clear evening, when
the sun hangs low on the horizon and the
peaks feel close enough to touch, and you
just might think youve died and gone to
heaven. Mrren is a skiing and hiking destination, with some 50km of prepared ski
runs nearby.
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
1138 C E N T R A L S W I T Z E R L A N D & B E R N E R O B E R L A N D I n t e r l a k e n
1140 N O R T H E R N S W I T Z E R L A N D B a s e l ( B l e )
looks pretty much as the name suggests, making it easily recognisable as you approach it
down the path below Wengens train station.
In fact, its a huge, rambling old lodge, with
basic facilities, but it boasts a lively atmosphere and fantastic views.
you take the early train (6.35am from Interlaken) and leave the summit by noon. From
1 November to 30 April the reduction is also
valid for the 7.35am train and the noon restriction does not apply. Eurail pass holders
get 25% off and Swiss Pass holders slightly
more.
Good weather is essential, so call %033
855 10 22 for taped forecasts before leaving.
NORTHERN
SWITZERLAND
This region is important for industry and
commerce, yet by no means lacks tourist attractions. Take time to explore the tiny rural
towns set among green rolling hills.
Schilthorn
BASEL (BLE)
pop 161,800
Jungfraujoch
The trip to Jungfraujoch (3454m) by train is
something you do because a) its generally
a once-in-a-lifetime experience and b) you
have to see it for yourself. If its a clear day,
the outlook at Europes highest train station is
indisputably spectacular. The track up powers
through both the Eiger as well as the Mnch,
and pauses briefly for travellers to take happy
snaps of views from two windows blasted in
the mountainside.
From Interlaken Ost the journey is 2
hours each way (return Sfr169). Theres a
cheaper good morning ticket for Sfr145 if
Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com
S W I T Z E R L A N D D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n 1141
Sleeping
easyHotel (www.easyhotel.com; Riehenring 109; r from
Sfr30; n) Whats plastic and orange and cheap
all over? Yep, after the no-frills airline easyJet,
heres the second instalment in Stelios HajiIoannous hotel empire. Rooms are functional,
clean, modern and, if not especially aesthetically appealing, slightly better than in the
London outlet. Variable pricing sees costs rise
at busy times (up to Sfr140 when we looked,
but could go above that). Book well ahead.
Basel Backpack (%061 333 00 37; www.baselback
pack.ch; Dornacherstrasse 192; dm Sfr31, s/d/f Sfr80/96/144;
ni) Enormous attention has gone into
tentious bistro, offering filling meals at affordable prices, locals like to lounge over pints at
the sturdy wood tables.
Zum Schmale Wurf (%061 683 33 25; Rheingasse 10;
mains Sfr10-30) Delicious smells and an air of
inter-generational bonhomie waft over this
Italian antipasto, pasta and carne heaven on
the river. Lunchtime menus (Sfr18.50) occasionally branch out into global cuisine, with
merguez sausages or jambalaya.
Located 5km north in France, EuroAirport
(%061 325 31 11; www.euroairport.com) serves Basel
(as well as Mulhouse, France and Freiburg,
Germany) and has several routes to London
on Swiss International Air Lines and low-cost
carrier easyJet, with direct flights to many
Continental cities, including Amsterdam,
Barcelona, Madrid, Paris and Rome.
Basel is a major rail hub. Trains to France,
including Paris (Sfr69, five hours, seven times
daily), leave from the SNCF section of SBB station. Germany-bound trains stop at Badischer
Bahnhof (BBF) on the northern bank. Main
routes are Frankfurt (Sfr80, three hours, daily)
and Hamburg (Sfr198, 6 hours, daily). There
are trains to Geneva (Sfr71, three hours, twice
hourly) and Zrich (Sfr30, 70 minutes, twice
hourly) from the SBB.
City buses and trams cost Sfr1.80 for four
or fewer stops, Sfr2.80 for the central zone or
Sfr8 for a day pass.
SWITZERLAND
DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
Switzerland has both official Hostelling International (HI) hostels and private backpacking
hostels, many of which have formed their own
group. Independent hostels tend to be more
charismatic and better bets for solo travellers,
or anyone wanting to meet other backpackers. Dorms in some private hostels are co-ed.
On average, a dorm bed in any hostel costs
Sfr20 to Sfr40.
For the novel experience of sleeping in a
barn, see Farm Stays (p1185).
Otherwise, check the following useful
websites:
Schweizer Jugendherbergen (www.youthhostel.ch)
Swiss Youth Hostel organisation.
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
Wengen
lonelyplanet.com
1142 S W I T Z E R L A N D D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s
lonelyplanet.com
hostel group.
BUSINESS HOURS
Usual business hours in Switzerland:
Banks h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, with some local
variations
S W I T Z E R L A N D D I R E C T O R Y H o l i d a y s 1143
TELEPHONE
HOLIDAYS
INTERNET ACCESS
Many internet cafs in Switzerland limit their
system, so you cant open any email attachments. Surfing is expensive, about Sfr10 to
Sfr16 per hour.
MONEY
Swiss francs (Sfr, written CHF locally) are
divided into 100 centimes (called rappen in
German-speaking Switzerland). All major
travellers cheques and credit cards are accepted. Virtually all train stations have moneyexchange facilities open daily.
POST
Postcards and letters to Europe cost
Sfr1.30/1.20 priority/economy; to other places
they cost Sfr1.80/1.40.
VISAS
Visas are not required for passport holders of
the EU, USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand
or South Africa. A maximum three-month
stay applies, although passports are rarely
stamped.
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
ACTIVITIES
lonelyplanet.com