Amanda Allbee

Veins of rain streaked down the smudged glass of the old Mercedes taxiing me into Zagreb midSunday morning. It was cold. It was colder than I had anticipated, and bleak. Though it was not
the warmest welcome into Zagreb, it was what I pictured European cities to look like under such
conditions: hauntingly beautiful nonetheless.
The walk through the city after dinner was when I saw the somber sky crack to reveal a gentler,
pastel light. Pink and orange tones created a celestial aura around the steeples of the church we
passed. I was all too tired to express in words how beautiful I thought it to be. I started to draft a
mental list of everything I needed to see and do in the next 20 days, yet I quickly became
overwhelmed at the prospect of eating 50 traditional Croatian dishes at 50 different restaurants,
drinking hundreds of cups of coffee at one hundred different cafes, and touring every single
museum and historical site Zagreb has to offer. In that moment I just needed to breathe in the
atmosphere and stand in disbelief on the ancient cobblestone streetsthen I needed to breathe
out.
I know it is painfully clich to call a place magic, but this is a magical place. And I intend to
saturate myself in every aspect of this culture, to go out of my comfort zone to experience
everything that is disparate from my American being. If I can accomplish this, I know Ill be able
to commence this trip feeling as if I grasped as much of the Croatian experience as I could,
although I know I will have a simultaneous feeling of voraciousness to explore further and quite
possibly a travel bugbut let me not start thinking about the end yet when Ive only just begun.

Ayanna Craig
As I walked through the streets of Zagreb, I was surprised to see how much Croatians embrace
other cultures while maintaining a rich history. As I strolled through the market I heard a popular
Atlanta rap song. The city appears to be diverse and welcoming of different ethnic groups. As I
scanned the crowds of people passing me in the main square of the town, I fell in love with
Zagreb because it welcomed and accepted me. There is definitely a lack of African American
people in Zagreb since I observed being stared at or looked at twice as I made my way through
the city. However, this has not made me feel uncomfortable or threatened; instead it has made
me feel unique and important because I was aware of their curiosity of me. At the market, I was
stopped and asked to be photographed and featured on Zagreb Times. This solidified to me that
most of those stares I received were not negative, but I was being noticed for my diverse cultural
features that makes me who I am. I believe that this ultimately what makes this city so special.
Zagreb truly allows you to be yourself. And that is something I will always cherish.

Grace Williamson
Zagreb embodies the prosperity and beauty that can only stem from past struggles. The appeal of
this city comes in the form of appreciation and pride. I see it in the people; everyone walks as
though they have somewhere to be, but they have no intention on rushing to get there. As I walk
down the cobblestone streets, I notice myself breezing past people. I keep thinking, Why are
they moving so slowly? Each moment is savored and appreciated, and I am curious as to how
they manage to live so intentionally while I am in a rush to get from one place to the next. The
people of Croatiaunlike Americansare so intent on taking their time, rather than making it
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pass. The outdoor cafs readily welcome guests to dine for an extended period, and I notice the
absence of phones during meals. People devote their attention to their company, or a cigarette, or
sipping a beer. They sip coffee for hours. They pay no mind to a little light drizzle. There is an
abundance of flowers and greenery in each park with plenty of benches, many of which are
occupied by people taking a second to enjoy the scene before them. For me, it has quickly
become all about the people of Zagreb. Their thoughtfulness has already left an impression on
me. It would be best, I think, if I left after these next three weeks having inherited the
mindfulness and laid-back nature of the Croatians.

Jane Snyder
Hvala is the word for thanks in Croatian. And after only one day in Croatia, I am already
saying Hvala to the city of Zagreb. I learned the word Hvala from the blunt waiter who greeted
our table with a cantankerous attitude but had us laughing by the end of the meal. Our inability to
read the menu and confusion with Croatian customs seemed to humor him. Thus throughout our
lunch of pizza and wine he continued to lightheartedly poke fun at our American ways. Much
like this waiter, many of the people that I have encountered in Croatia are pleased to help out a
flustered American without bother. The Croats I have observed all seem composed and relaxed
as they stride down the cobblestone streets of Zagreb. They have an entirely different aura
compared to Americansthey appear more content, composed, and appreciative of the little,
special moments in life. In my time in Zagreb, I hope this harmonious mindset rubs off on me
and helps me move on from the bad habits of restlessness and thoughtlessness from American
culture.

Molly Harris
To accommodate the detached taxi sign in the floorboard, I shuffled my feet and shifted my pack
to rest in my lap. The lightened load afforded the opportunity to finally take in the city as we
worked our way toward our hotel during rush hour. Graffiti coats the polished Secessionist
architecture, and the expressions and clothing people wear as they walk along the street reflect
their home. Both buildings set against an overcast sky and residents blend together in shades of
white, grey, and black; others stand apart in splashes of bright colors. Each appears somewhat
gruff on a grizzly day; however, a smile surfaces as does the underlying architecture.
There is a duality here. We passed through an empty square only to turn a corner rendering a
street brimming with life. Past the bustling clubs we continued on past a salsa lesson. Another
turn or two led us by a religious shrine followed by a vendor selling key chains reading: [my beer
belly] fuels the machine. Our excursion continued leading us to meet faces young and old alike.
With many young people perched in cafs having a drink, the cobblestone felt deserted. The
night was cool and the rain had passed. As we leaned into a hill, we passed the gas lanterns still
traditionally lit each night. We pressed on to Strossmayer which yielded a stunning panoramic
view of Zagreb. After absorbing the scene we descended stone stairs under soft lantern light
diffused by droplets of rain- the only remnants of an afternoon mist.
From the comfort of my room, I watched Zagreb transform into a living impressionist frame
through paths of rain. I heard the ring of Cathedral bells in the distance from my open window.
Beads of water bled the yellow facades into the red tiled roofs; distant steeples permeated the
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whitewashed sky. The city is peaceful as smoke puffs and blows from the chimneys below;
certainly an inviting site.

McGee Nall
To be honest, Zagreb wasnt what I expected at least not at first. As our new friend, Marko,
drove us into town, I was anticipating the picturesque village with plants hanging from lanterns
on vibrantly colored buildings, awaiting the chance to recline at a caf with the sun warming my
face. These characteristics do exist in the heart of Zagreb, but entering the city painted a different
picture than the one preconceived in my brain. On our taxi ride, run-down buildings saturated in
graffiti greeted us on every block. The old and cracked clashed with the new and sleek in every
street we whizzed past. And of course, there was the incessant rain for two days which added grit
and toughness to a city I was not necessarily expecting to have either.
Dont get me wrong I felt tethered to the city from the moment I saw the view from our hotel
window and loved it even as I walked back to the hotel from Sunday Mass in the frigid rain in
my (soaked) Chacos carrying a bag of bananas. But today, under a brilliant blue sky, the city
seemed to transform. I couldnt help but smile as I ate the most delicious, richest pasta at the
Kerempuh Restaurant, overlooking the Dolac Market filled with bright, red umbrellas beaming
in the sunlight, watching pigeons fly over the Secessionist buildings. I thought, This is the city
Ive been waiting for.

Sona Rao
If Zagreb has shown me anything in the last 24 hours, its that less is more. Zagreb is the epitome
of a small and exciting city. Named one of the best new tourist destinations in the years to come,
Zagreb is a city ready for its debut. The first aspect of Zagreb I noticed was the size. Everything
from buildings to buses seems miniscule in comparison to American ones. My group and I
stepped out of the airport into a gray-overcast late afternoon. While riding to our hotel, we
passed through the outskirts of the city, a mostly residential area that was just as gray as the sky
above us. It was like taking a step back in time. The chain-fenced houses and apartments are
utilitarian and industrial, and stand as remnants of Croatias communist era that lasted from 1943
to 1991, when Croatia gained independence from Yugoslavia. We got off at a station and hopped
on a tram to the heart of the city. Zagreb has blue trams that roll through the city alongside the
cars and sidewalks, and some of them are still models from the 1960s and 1980s. As a first-time
visitor of Eastern Europe, my first impression of Zagreb was not the romantic European setting
people usually expect; however, when I opened the curtains to my hotel room, my impression
completely changed. I was taken aback by a sunlit view of copper-colored rooftops that waved
up and down the hills of Zagreb and nestled into lush green mountains that stood tall behind the
city. The architecture of the city is influenced by Austria and Italy, as I learned later during our
tour. In a city like Zagreb, less can definitely be more. Im looking forward to hearing, seeing,
tasting, and telling the story of Zagreb throughout the next few weeks.

Lizzie Chambers
Welcome to Zagreb, where the local time is 9:25 am and local temperature is 9 degrees Celsius,
48 degrees Fahrenheit, our pilot said in a thick Slavic accent. My eyes widened and my jaw
dropped slightly. 48 degrees? Did I take the correct flight? Minutes later, I stepped out of the
stuffy airplane into freezing cold horizontal rain. My tee shirt and socks were soggy by the time I
made it to the airport shuttle bus. Goosebumps coated my body. This was certainly not what I
was expecting.
It did not take long for me to realize that the idea of Zagreb I had cultivated in my head
established, shamelessly, from few Google image searches was not one hundred percent
reflective of the reality here. However, I had just arrived in a foreign country. Freezing or not, I
was going to enjoy every minute of this new experience.
The Westin hotel accommodations were lovely Sunday night I do not think I have ever
appreciated a bed as much as I did following my 14-hour travel period. Of course, I was happy to
see the sun upon waking up Monday morning. It was our first day of class tour day and I was
ready to explore this unfamiliar city. The architecture of the city was one of the first things that
caught my eye. Zagrebs buildings were magnificent enormous, yet intricate. I noticed a
prominence of yellow and pastel-colored buildings within the city, which brought about a certain
splendor. Trees lined the side of roads. The tram cars were bright blue. The city buzzed with
activity. Adventuring through the city has left me in awe of its beauty. I look forward to
familiarizing myself with Zagreb and discovering its assets especially those that often go
unnoticed.

Madison Gable
The bus ride from Zagrebs small airport into town presented the city in a definitive gray-scale.
Cement apartment buildings, remnants of communist-era Zagreb, bled into the cloudy sky in an
eerily linear fashion. I silently wondered to myself if the entire city would be this monotone.
After spending only twenty-four hours here I now know how incorrect that thought was. Even
viewing the architecture from my uninformed standpoint, I can see that its indicative of the
citys complexities and many histories. Zagrebs outside influences are palpable, and I am
reminded of Hegels notion of history, how it compiles and results in an inescapable present that
has always been destined for existence (can you tell Im fresh out of philosophy 101?).
In the present I cant help but observe that the city is still steeped in tradition. Friends rest
together on cafe patios, shaded under awnings that absorb the welcome sunshine. A cup of coffee
or a glass of wine lasts several hours thanks to the conversation being passed around the tables.
Patrons at the Dolac market pass by stands with leisure, purchasing fresh produce and flowers.
Time here feels viscous in nature, and stretches out before me more graciously than I deserve.
The drab government-sanctioned apartment buildings flanking Zagreb both contrast and flow
with the town, and are far more intriguing now that I have caught a glimpse of the many lives of
the city that lies just past their towering presence.

Taylor Gordy
The thud of the plane wheels touching down on Croatian ground jolted me from an
uncomfortable nap in the aisle seat. After months of anticipation, it seemed surreal that I was
gathering my things to disembark the plane into Zagreb.
All it took was one walk through the main drag for me to fall in love with Zagreb. The quiet of
Sunday night settled over Ilica; well-dressed families strolled down the street hand-in-hand while
young people stood in groups in the main square, laughing as they enjoyed their cigarettes. Life
moves a little slower here. As we snaked our way up and down the streets of the city the
following day, I admired the little moments I witnessed: a man and his young grandson
wandering through the botanical gardens, the little boy babbling in Croatian as his grandfather
chuckled; two women pausing to sip white wine together in the dappled sunshine of late
morning; and an older man, balding head bowed in reverence, enjoying a serene moment under a
stone image of Mary at the Zagreb Cathedral. I appreciate the slower pace of this capital city
compared to the hustle and bustle of life in the US. I hope to embrace the little moments over the
next few weeks and immerse myself in the Zagreb lifestyle.

Kristen Monson
Coming into the city from the airport, the scenery was grey and dreary. There was a brief
moment of thinking if it would ever look like what I pictured in my head and I needed to wait
before Zagreb received my sleep-deprived, premature judgment. I decided to give the city a day
before it got an unfair verdict. After a meal at the hotel, we decided to walk around the city.
Since it was Sunday, nearly every store was closed and it was eerily quiet walking down the
streets, even though there were still many people out and about. The buildings are shorter and
older looking than those in the states. Each building has designs and details that just arent seen
back home, and the red roofs are a sure sign that Im in Europe.
Once we got to the main square, I could immediately tell Zagreb was starting to turn into the city
I had pictured in my head. The buildings enclose an empty square where roads and sidewalks are
distinctive, and the trams run through; it gives off a perfect small city vibe. Just one block up is a
cathedral with more detail on just a small area surrounding the door, than can be found on any
building in the United States. After seeing the church, we called it a night and walked back to the
hotel just as it was getting dark.

Nicole Pena
Its interesting how you can go to a place with a picture in your head of what it will look like and
be so completely wrong. While I usually feel like I get the general idea of a new location ahead
of time, I certainly did not with Zagreb. This city is filled with concrete buildings painted in
pastel hues of pink and yellow with orange tinted Spanish tiled roofs, and graffiti that acts as
tattoos on the outside walls of the structures. Graffiti seems to be so looked down upon in the
United States, but here it almost seems to be embraced. What looks like doodles and scribbles,
adds so much character to this already eclectic city.
Not only was I surprised by the appearance of the city, I was also amazed by the cuisine. I mean
what is Croatian food anyways? Before we arrived, I was told the bread, cheese, and wine would
be some of the best that Id ever try, and I was not let down. I consider eating to be one of the
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greatest joys in life. Today I was able to try all three of these and more including pizza and
coffee.
I have only been in Zagreb for about a day and a half, and I already feel so comfortable. The
people are so friendly, and the environment is so calm and inviting. There is no need to feel
stressed, which is such a nice change from the American mentality and way of life of which we
have become so accustomed. I am already so excited about what Croatia has in store for us these
next three weeks, and I hope I can truly embrace the Croatian way of life in my short time here.