The

and

Dyeing

Cleaning

of

Fabrics

Textile

Handbook

for

the

and

'Amateur

Based
H.

FIRST

NEW

London

CHAPMAN

of

notes

THOUSAND

EDITION

YORK:

WILEY
:

S.

STANDAGE

FIRST

JOHN

B.

partly on
C.

Professional

OWEN,

a.

F.

By

the

"
^

1909

HALL,

SONS
LIMITED

1909

COPYRIGHT,

BT

F.

A.

Enter'd

Klectrotyped

and

Printed

by

a:

the

OWEN

Stationers'

Publishers

Hall

Printing

Co..

New

York.

U.

S.

A.

PUBLISHER'S

who

Ushers,

and

concerned

These

had

such

form

the

in

its

part

greater

ni

and

he

shape;
of

it,

the

author.

cleaning.

indeed,

asked

revise

to

Mr.

that

for

as

not

were

therefore

was

of

and

responsible

is,

recipes

and

Owen,

finally
is

books,

part

dyeing

we

Mr.

his

pub-

greater

revised

use;

result

whole,

the

of

dyer,
The

present

of

of

miscellaneous

collected,

be

the

Standage,

one

of

properly

American

publication.

re-wrote

to

lot

subject

been

as

Mr.

issued

had

the

not

well-known

for

of

he

which

notes

late

already

possession

which

in

the

of

had

into

came

death

the

After

NOTE.

the

regards

them

Owen

book

the

PREFACE.

In
and

processes

not

familiar

are

first taken

of

such

need

been

to

the

The

to

it has

In

home;

is

information;

On

dyers,

mortals.

ordinar}^ processes
therefore
classes

as

of

dyewares

of

of

class, being

practised
a

in

are

plicable
apit

but
which

index,

needs.

he

in

than

more

renovating

fairly complete

given, and

some

do

fairly complete,

that

show

subject

recipes

find what

general lack

very

and

usually attempted

are

to

the

cleaning

of the

to

d3^eing

wearing-apparel, cleansing

that

it is desired

practicable.

of

all

are

able

be

for

materials;

make

to

of

renovating

but

there

will

book

pressing

of

to

ified
class-

are

Some

frecjuentuse

intention

the

of the
the

and

by

supposed

book, while

class

one

pages

elucidation

directions

classification, and

terms

some

processes

afterward.

than

more

been

user

of the

exact

that

hoped

different

recipes

some

be

reasonably

treated

of

use

description and

possible, and

as

useful

to

necessary

may

first part

admit

not

these

and, therefore,

with
as

are

reader

eveiyone,
up

much

re-dyeing

is

it has

explanation.

occupy

the

the

matters

as

is

before

placing

art

of all the
of

description of
common
v

use;

and

ive
secret-

most

account

the

this

ing
by dye-

knowledge
the

at

from

dyeing

is

various

the
a

perusal

PREFACE.

VI

which

of

but

re-dyeing,
of

should

reliable

dealers

selected

without

the

intended

to

it

is

not

reputable
seemed

desirable

although

almost

be

whom

there

name

these

few

were

and

dealers,

other

against

are

few.

expensive

omissions

all

tested

intended,
if

is

and

Errors

been

of

of

these

prejudice

any

method

The

dye,

package
for

except

it

but

many;

the

very

undertaking.

smallest

in

cause

list

given;
of

of

admits

what
A

is

knowledge

to

good,

and

decide

to

clothing

used.

be

dyestuffs

in

dealers,

of

dyewares

what

also

possible

be

may

article

any

them

apph'ing

it

that

hoped

wliether

only

not

is

it

they

the

are

the

cases

by

there

long

use

directions

intelligently

reasonably

undoubtedly

by
are

the

results

expected.

190S.

if,

exphcit,

good

F.
November,

and

writer,

sufficiently

followed,

have

materials

and

processes

A.

but

are;

Owen.

is

as

and

may

THE

DYEING

AND

TEXTILE

OF

CLEANING
FABRICS.

Solution.

Solutions
dissolved

been

substance,

appropriate quantity

an

substances,

or

When

properties.

dissolving medium
the

solvent

solution.

other

the

solution

Thus

alkaline

similarly, and

usually

or

acid

nor

alkali

combine
saturated

for the
any

solution

should

largest surface

crushed

possible

liquid. Substances

days undissolved,
1

called

that

when

peculiar

its

the

to

in the

reduced
1

alcoholic

the

sohition

to

it acid

or

vice

versa.

the

fluid

it

dissolve

solvent

to

named

is

alkaline

that

lump

an

neither

pulverized, to

or

from

name

are

when
all

is the

designate

to

or

it will

i.e.,mitil

it its

solutions

dissolved

has

be

prefix

present,

so

soluble

solution

adding

by

of any

spirit or

has

it is called

water

acid

an

which

water

derives

Neutral

is

solution

than

alkali

the

substance,

SoUds

has

neutral

with

fluid

acid

or

used.

made

to

alcohol,

alkaline, though

be

may

impart

with

with

An

acid

to

any

used.

solution,

aqueous

in

fluids, usually water,

are

powder

used
of

hold

can

more.

no

the

expose

action

would

just

to

of

remain
are

the
for

lique-

THE

DYEING

CLEANING

AND

solid,as salt or alum,

is placedin a vessel to dissolve,
it rests on the bottom.
The water
surrounding it becomes saturated,and,
being heavier,remains also at the bottom, so that
the
the solution proceedsvery slowly. By stirring,
time.
solution is hastened, but this takes up much
fied in

short time.

When

plan is to suspendthe salt in a colander or

basket,or coarse
bag, at the surface of the liquid.
As the particles
of salt
of water take up the particles
heavier and sink; others take their
they become
of the salt and sink in their turn,
places,dissolve more
and rapid,and always at
that action is constant
so
that part of the liquidmost
capable of dissolving
things.
The

best

Precipitation.
quite the opposite of solution. It is the
of obtaining solid matter
method
by mixing two
tary
solutions,or more, of substances containingelemenor chemical
equivalentshaving a mutual affinity,
The
attraction for eacli other.
fluid,or reagent,
is called
added to another to produce a precipitate
the precipitant.Unless otherwise directed,
it is best
solution about to be precipitated
to warm
and to
a
add the precipitant,
all the time,
graduallystirring
with a clean rod of glassor other inert material,
until
After standing some
to form.
a
ceases
precipitate
time to settle (subside),
of the precipitant
a drop more
is added to be sure
is complete; if
the precipitation
the admixture
remains clear and unchanged the reaction
is completeand the fluid may be poured off (deThis

is

OF

TEXTILE

FABRICS.

which is filtered if necescanted) from the precipitate,

sary,
the precipitate
washed, and dried. Where
is
the chief

objectof the

it fresh water,

(decant) as
is

be

usuallynecessary
be done by pouringover
again subside and pour off

it. Often this may

to wash

allowingto
times

many

as

wash

to

solvent action upon

is called the

with

If the

necessary.

partly soluble in

taken, or

it is

process

water

having a
tion
precipita-

fluid left after

and
filtrate,

where

has to

care

fluid not

some

it. The

more

the

cipitate
pre-

is

process

is neglectedand the
purifya fluid the precipitate
clear" (filtrate)
poured off for use.

to
*'

Infusion.
AA'hen the

water, and

to
principles

w^ater
boiling

but

soluble in

slightly
volatile,

poured on the substance of which the

be made, the vessel is carefully
covered,

the whole

minutes, or

time

same

are

is

infusion is to
and

the

at

be extracted

allowed

to remain

untouched

hours, accordingto

even

the

for

some

greater

or

less solubility
and

of the substance,and
penetrability
the requiredstrengthof the infusion. If an infusion
is rei]uired
of dried leaves or flowers,
they are first

moistened
allowed

with
for them

Httle

to

swell and

the rest of the water.

the

water

at

once,

deficient in both

boilingwater, and

is

flavor and

perfume. Infusions of

vegetable substances that do

the
powerful action upon
human
by pouring one

adding
by adding all

frequentlypractised,are

all

made

time

soften before

Infusions made
as

pint of

water

not

exert

system
on

one

very

may

be

ounce

of

the

and

vegetablematter

to

The

1 horn-.

in infusions is 1 to

CLEANING

AND

DYEIXG

THE

allow to macerate

for from

close of such substances

orclinarj^
2 oz. three or four times per day.

Uable to undergo sponlike decoctions,

are
Infusions,
taneous
in
decompositionby standing, esi^ecialiy

weather, when

warm

for their passage

into

few horn's
state

are

often sufficient

of active fermentation;

they should, therefore,be prepared for use daily,

as
beyond 24 hours the}'cannot be depended upon.
not
InfiLsions should alwaj'sbe made in vessels that canbe attacked by any of the substances with which
tightto
they are in contact, and closed sufficiently
volatile component.
prevent the loss of the most
New
tin fillsthe requirementsver}' well,especially
if

pro^^ded^^ith

cover.

Maceration.
AMien

infusion is made

an

This

maceration.

it is termed

without
takes

infusion,properly-o
requiresless than 7 days, sometimes

time

In

than

an

distiUations this method

many

to soften the substance

and

to

facilitate the

before

extraction

the aid of heat

much

longer
called;it rarely
a

several weeks.
is made

puttingit in

use

the

of its odorous

of

still,
ciple.
prin-

by maceration,should
be frequentlyshaken
duiing the process, which
in glassvessels well stoppered.
should be conducted
Digestionis a prolongedinfusion which is usually
made

Tinctures,when

conducted

at

employed for

an

of

maceration.

mecUum

that

properlyso called and that

objectis usuallyto impregnate

infusion
Its

temj^erature,between

TEXTILE

OF

alcohol
would

the

be taken

of
principles
slowly extracted

but

heat,such
cver

the

with
be

as

the

sun

or

other

substance

without

to fillthem

too

the

situation.

warm

of the vessels

nature
not

FABRICS.

employed, care
also to cover
full,

which
aid

of

AMiatmust

those

placed on the sand bath with a damp

piece of parchment or paper tied around the top,
with pin holes prickedin it. If this is neglectedthe
expansionand increased volume of air or vapor may
burst it. Moreover, the process is not so well conducted
that

are

to be

where

the vessel is too

full.

Decoction.
Decoctions

solutions of the

of vegeproperties
tables
which
obtained by boiling,
is presumed to be
effective method
of extracting
their properties
a more
infusion. For making decoctions the
than by mere
substances
should be well bruised,or reduced to very
coarse
powder, or, if fresh and soft,they should be
sliced small. In the former case any very fine powder
or
adhering dust should be removed with a sieve,as
its presence
tend to make
would
the product thick
ajid disagreeable,
and also more
difficult to strain.
The

vessel

are

in which

furnished with

decoctions

are

made

should

be

accuratelyfitting
cover, the better
to exclude the air,and the heat so regulatedthat the
fluid may
be kept justsimmering,or only gentlyboiling,
violent boilingis not only quiteunnecessary,
as
but absolutelyinjurious.In every
the liquor
case
should be strained while hot, but not boiling,
and
the best method
of doing so is to employ a fine hair
an

sieve,or
that

as

coarse

AND

DYEING

THE

bag.

In

cool there

is

flannel

decoctions

CLEANING

of the
in consequence
of the vegetablematter

generalit
a

boilingwater
than

it can

is found

sediment

formed,

dissoKingmore
retain when

cold.

depositconsists for the most part of the active

of the solution,and
should
be mingled
principles
when the decoction
wdth the clear liquidby agitation
is used. It will thus be seen that the common
practice
of lea\angthe straining
filtration until the licjuid
or
has become
the sediment,
cold,and also of rejecting
and should be scrupulouslyavoided,as,
is injurious,
however
much
decoctions so prepared may
please
the eye, they are not only inferior in strength,but,
in many
inert. It may
be further
cases, entirely
remarked
that long boilingis in no case
necessary,
in decoctions prebut should be avoided,especially
pared
from aromatic vegetables,
those abounding
or
in extractive. Distilled water, or perfectly
clean rain
water, should alone be used for decoctions. Spring
and river water, from their containinglime,have less
solvent powers.
Decoctions
of vegetablesnot exerting
a very
powerful influence on the human
system
of the vegetable
be made
by boilingone ounce
may
in one
matter
pint of water for 10 to 15 minutes.
This

The

dose of such

decoction

is the

same

as

similar

the
infusion,
^iz.,1-2 oz. 3 or 4 times daily. When
medicinal properties
of vegetablesare volatile,
or
are
injuredby heat,infusions should be had recourse
to,
in preferenceto boiling;
but when
a solution of the

fixed constituents alone is

In

sought,decoction is preferable.
those inpreparingcompound decoctions,

OF

TEXTILE

FABRICS.

gredientsshould be boiled first which least readily

and those that most
impart their active principles,
readilyimpart should be added afterward. In many
it will be proper simply to infuse the more
cases
aromatic

in the hot decoction

substances

by which
ingredients,
will be preserved.

means

of the other

their volatile

principles

Concentration.

evaporationof part of a liquidin order

The operato increase the strengthof what remains.
tion
can
only be performedon solutions of substances
extent at temperatures
not volatile to an appreciable
This

is the

which

at

their solvent

all temperatures, hence

boils.

Water

its solutions

is volatile at
of substances

perature
teminvariablybe concentrated at some
stance.
without loss or decompositionof the subA^'ater also boils at very low temperatures
of which property the vacuum
in a partial
vacuum,
in sugar-making is a very
good illustration.
pan
Many of the acids,alkalies,etc., are concentrated
by boiUng do^vn or distiUingoff their water.

may

almost

Crystallization.
by the evaporacrystallized
tion
of their saturated solutions. The
tendency in
and is very
is to eliminate impurities,
crystallizing
largelypractised. Certain salts also will crystallize
Soluble substances

at

temperatures

do not, and

at

if the

are

which

others in the

temperature

be

same

solution

regulated,
carefully

of various bodies
systematicprocesses of separation

THE

in the

DYEING

solution

same

AND

can

CLEANING

be worked

out

on

large

cn^staUizingare filtered
and decanted or in some
mechanicallyfreed from
way
discolorations,
slimy deposits,
as
impurities,
many
etc.,as possible.Crystalsform also from the gaseous
scale.

state.

from

The

solutions before

definite and distinctive

a
Crystalsalwa\'s assume
shai^e,which distinguishcertain substances
other similar bodies.

often form

when
cr5'stals

Metals

in

state

of fusion

slowlycooled.

Decantation.
of pouringoff the clear portion
operation
from its sediment.
This is performedby
of a liquid
the vessel,
of a siphon.
or
by means
genth'inclining
When
a Uquid is set aside to settle for future decanta^
tion b}"the firstmethod
it is best to use a beU-shai^ed
vessel or one
providedwith a Up, for convenience in
pouring,as in decanting from a full vessel with
side
straightsides the liquidis apt to flow down the outof the vessel. This can, however, be ob^^ated by
wetted with
rod,or a stick,pre\'iously
holdinga gla"ss
the liquid,
nearlyupright,with one end restingin
into which the hquid
the receptacle
or suspendedover
is to be decanted; the Uquid is poured gentlydown
the upper
side of the stick,keepingthe rim of the
with it. The
vessel in contact
Uquid wiU be more
attracted by the wet stick than the dry side of the
be inconvenient,
from the
vessel. If this method
or
of the vessel impossible,
nature
a
siphon must be
used. This is a tube of glassor metal bent at an angle
of about 30",with one legor end longerthan the other.

This is the

OF

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

pieceof India-rubber tubing makes an excellent

and
easily adjustedsiphon for decanting liquids
be
The siphon must
that will not affect rubber.
first filled with the liquid,then the shorter leg is
inserted in the liquid,
care
being taken to keep its
extremity always below the surface,and the liquid
will flow out continuously
through the longerleg as
long as there is any left in the vessel. For decanting,
caustic Hquids,acids,etc.,special
structed
siphonsare conthat may
be filledand adjustedwith no fear
of the person coming in contact with those corrosive

substances.
Heat
In

at,
that

not

or

an

equableheat has to be sustained

exceed,a certain degree,it is evident

where

cases

to

open

Regulation.

an

or
flame,would
fire,

be too variable for

the vessel
difficulty,
to a
to be heated is placed,
immersed, or embedded
convenient depth,in another vessel containing
water,
cumstanc
oil,saline solution,
sand, molten metal, etc., as cirrequire,to which heat is applied,and
mometer.
ifnecessary, by the therwhose heat can be regulated,
Steam is also appliedfor this purpose; but,
of course, requires
special
apparatus. The baths most
commonly used are the water bath and the sand bath.

the

To

purpose.

obviate

The
This arrangement

this

Water

is used

Bath.
where

the heat

does not exceed 212" Fahr.,and consists of

within another, so
contact

at

any

secured that

point below

they cannot

the

required

one

vessel
come

in

level of the water

10

THE

which

has been
A

them.

also the

fillthe space

to

double

glue-potis

rice-boiler. As

common
an

CLEANING

AND

introduced

common

in

water

its

DYEING

212", a
boiling-point,

water

bath,

the temperature of

vessel cannot

open

between

be increased

vessel immersed

above

in it

can

point,and by keeping
this degree can
the water
maintained.
be steadily
boiling,
other degrees of heat are
Where
requisite,
and water, or nearlypure glycerine,
glycerine
may
Also salt in satbe used to raise the boiling-point.
urated
solutions,alum, borax, oil,or any substance
is higherthan that of water.
whose boiling-point
be heated

never

above

The
An

iron

purpose.

Sand

river

Sufficient

dried,must

or

employed for this

sea
sand, pre^'iously
be put in to completely
be

vessel to be acted upon is then

the intervening
space filledup to the

the bottom.

and
introduced,

Bath.

dish should

copper

clean and

washed
cover

or

that

The

heightwith sand, and the whole placedover

alcohol lamp or a furnace. The size of the blaze is
an
and the
to the degree of heat required,
proportioned
cation
objectof the sand bath is to cut off direct communiwith the fire and to produce a gradual and
equable heat.
desired

Distillation.

vaporizinga liquidin one

vessel and condensingit in another with suitable pipes
Distillation consists in

or

other

means

for

conductingthe

vapors

to

the

condensingvessel. The process is used for separating

be
from a solid substance with which it may
a liquid

12

THE

into

state

inside.

well chalked

box

is allowed

allowed

to

In man}'

wooden

the metal

cases

rmi

In
spherical.

become

mitil cold in

by

through holes of a kind of colander

if the drops are
produceminute di\'ision;
sufficient height the\' will
fall from
a

to

sieve to

efTect is obtained

same

metal

molten

CLEANING

AND

The

water.

the
agitating

or

DYEING

lead shot

this way

are

made.

Pulverization.
The

reduction

of any

substance

powder

to

is generally

performedby pestleand mortar, or on a larger

or
miUing. Some soft
scale,by stamping, grinding,
substances,like carbonate of magnesia,carbonate of
by rubbing through a
lead,etc.,may be pulverized
fuie

sieve; while

many

soft substances,such

as

chalk,

the
on
earth, antimony, etc.,are pulverized
while others yieldonly to
largescale by elutriation,
fuller's

the rasp and

must

file. Whichever

be

very

way

dry, and

is

used, the
need

may

stance
sub-

artificial

stances,
subdiying or desiccation. On the other hand, some
vomica, etc., are often
as
rice,sago, mix
soaked in water, or steamed, before being pulverized.
In

some

cases

some

other

substance

or

intermecUum

operation;thus,sugar is
used in pulverizing
civet,musk, nutmeg, and vanilla,
absorbing the moisture that could not othei*wise be
readilygot rid of. The addition of a very small
quantityof alcohol renders the powderingof camphor
ate
Gold leaf is pulverized
by mixing with carboneasy.
of potassa and afterward washing out the potassa
Fusible metals are reduced to powder
with water.
is introduced

to aid in the

OF

13

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

by meltingand rubbing in a mortar until cold,or by

violent agitationof the fusion in a box coated with
chalk or whiting. Glass,quartz, and silicated stones
require to be heated red-hot and quenched with
them
friable for pulverization.
When
to make
water
powdering very dusty or costlyarticles in a mortar,
it should be covered with a loose skin of leather,
and the
around the top of the mortar
fastened loosely
pestle,to prevent the loss of the dust and possible
injury to the operator'slungs. AMien a substance
has to be reduced to an
impalpable powder, a slab
and

muller

are

used.

This process

is also called por-

phyrization.
To

Obtain

Vegetable

Juices

by Expression.

plantsare obtained by bruising

the fresh leaves in a mortar
(a mortar of marble is
which,
best),or in a mill,and expressingthe juice,
for some
after standing (defecation)
hours,is either
The

juicesof

fresh

filtered through paper,

coagulatedby heat and

or

its albuminous

then

strained.

matter

Some

is

plants
of J its
requirethe addition to the crushed mass
quantity of water before pressing.The expression
of the juiceof apples,lemons,oranges,
peaches,or
clean
grapes is facilitated by the addition of some
etc.,are often
Grapes,mulberries,
chopped straw.
crushed and left from 3 to 7 days to undergo a slight
fermentation before pressing.A powerfulscrew
press
The preservation
of the
for this purpose.
is required
other vegejuiceof the narcotic plants,and some
tables,
from these
considerable interest,
has assumed

14

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

preparations
having been proposedas
tinctures.

common

It appears

into

plants just coming

of extract

amount

which

that the

flower
may

substitutes for

juiceof

young

yieldsonly f

the

from

the

be obtained

juiceexpressedfrom the mature

plant,or when the flowers are fullyblown; and the
strengthof the productis always inferior. The leaves
alone should be preferably
employed,and should be
the
of the second year'sgrowth, where
exclusively
plantsare biennials. Allow the juiceto remain for
2-i hours in a cool place,then decant the clear portion,
of alcohol (90^), agitate,
and
add } part by measure
after 24 hours againdecant the clear Hquid and filter
stances.
through paper.
Keeps well under ordinary circumIn making a corresponding
to the
tincture,
fresh bruised leaves add an equal weight of rectified
for 15 days,
and after maceration
spirit(alcohol),
tincture filtered.
the whole is pressedand the resulting
The commencing dose of narcotic juice is about 5
are
preparedthe predrops. In the above manner
served
lock,
juicesof aconite,belladonna,colchicum,hemhenbane, foxglove,etc.
amount

same

To

of

Essential

Extract

Oil from

Wood,

Bark, Roots,

Herbs, Etc.
Put

the material

into

spoonfulof ether; keep in a

well stoppered,and then
water;
and

may

bottle and
cool

pour

placefor a

fill the

easilyseparated.

it

few hours,

bottle with

the essential oil wi]l float upon

be

over

cold

the surface

OF

TEXTILE

15

FABRICS.

SpecificGravity
of which
densityof the matter
body is
any
composed compared with the density of another
ard
body, assumed as the standard,or 1,000. This standis pure distilled water for liquidsand solids,
and
atmospheric air for gases and vapors.
Specific
gravity,unless otherwise expressed,is always taken
In most
at 60" Fahr.
cases, however, it is sufficient
the temperature and to apply a corrective,
to note
depending on the known
densityof water or air at
the different degreesof the thermometric
scale. The
above plan has been adopted, because the weight of
an
equal bulk of different substances varies greatly.
Thus, as gold is 19 and silver 10 times heavier than

is the

water, those numbers, 19 and

10, are said

to

represent

specific
gravity of gold and silver. Alcohol is
about J as heavy as water, and as the strengthof
of alcohol
spirituous
Hquor depends upon the amount
it contains,
this strengthis simply found out by its
specificgravit}^and is indicated by the depth to
which
littleinstrument, called a hydrometer, will
a
sink in the spirituous
liquor. The weaker the spirituous
hquor the less the hydrometer sinks,and vice
less than
versa, but is always expressedby numbers
1,000, or by decimals less than 1. The Hghtestof all
Hquids has a specific
gravityof 0.6,or j\ that of water.
Common
air is about 800 times lighterthan water;
illuminatinggas about 2,000; and pure hydrogen
The heaviest substance
12,000 times lighterthan water.
the

known

has

about

250,000 times

more

weight.

16

THE

DYEING

CLEANING

AXD

gravity
lightest.The specific
is found
of solids not soluble in water
by weighing
in water, thus getting
them in air and again immersed
the weight of the water
they displace. Divide the
weight in the air by the loss of weight in water and
the result is the specific
gravity. If the sohd is soluble
be weighed in some
in water, it must
liquidin which
its specific
it is not
soluble, and thus determine
and then multiph^
gra\nty as compared to that liquid,
the result by the specificgravity of that liquid.
Liquidsor gases must be weighed in a bottle of known
capacityand divide that weight by the weight of an
equal bulk of water; the quotientis,as before,the
bulk

for

the

bulk, than

gravity. Powders
s}"ecific
weighed along with water
bottle

will hold

much

as

insoluble
in

in

water

are

weighing-bottle;the

less water

the

as

hulk

of

powder, and the weight of the powder in air

di\dded
by this loss will give the specificgravity.
Thus, supposing the bottle to hold 1,000 grains of
are
introduced,and the
water, 100 grains of emery
water
bottle filled with water; if no
were
displaced
the two should weigh 1,100 grains; they reallyweigh
1,070 grains; the difference,30 grains,is the weight
of the water
displaced;100-1-30=3.333, the specific
the

gravityof
To

emery.

Determine

the

Weight

of

Body

from

its

SpecificGravity.
A

hence,
any

foot of water

cubic
to

determine

body,

the

the

weighs
weight

gravity
si3ecific

about
of

1,000

given

of which

ounces;

bulk

of

is knowTi,

17

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OP

this

multiplythe cubic contents in feet by 1,000,and

gravity,and the product will be
by the specific
avoirdupois.
weight in ounces

of

Influence

The

Temperature

the

SpecificGravity.

on

percentage of absolute alcohol in

spirituous
be given by volume
or
weight, but as
hquor may
Uquors are sold by measure, not weight,it is generally
preferredto know the percentage by volume; the per
The

remains

cent

by weight

but

the per cent

the

of the

at all

same

by volume
Hquid. Many

any

varies with

temperatures,
the temperature

instruments

have

been

quantity of absolute
alcohol contained
in any spirituous
Hquors,and these
known
are
as
dromet
Hyhydrometers, or alcoholmeters.
into
made
by different inventors have come
introduced

to

determine

the

in different countries,so

use

that

it is necessary

to

always by whose hydrometer the operator was

of this kind.
working in making any determinations
Tralles' hydrometer represents y^
part of pure or
state

absolute

alcohol

scale,at

for each

of the

100

temperature of 60" Fahr.

divisions
^Yhen

on

the

its

strumen
in-

spirituousliquorat 60"
Fahr.
it immediately indicates the strength; for
instance,if in brandy at that temperature it sinks
lute
that 65 parts of the liquorare absoto 65", it shows
is floated

alcohol
to
per

and

in any

35 parts

are

water.

Should

it sink

90, it indicates that the liquoris 90 parts, or

cent

liquidsto

strength. An increase
expand in volume, and a

in

in heat
decrease

90

causes

in heat

18

THE

contraction

causes

the normal
than
than
the

DYEING

AND

of volume

CLEANING

; therefore

temperature of 60" Fahr.

above
spirits

appear

stronger

they are, and below G0" they are reallystronger

they appear to be. It is therefore evident that
degrees of this hydrometer as representingpercentages
correct
are
only when the spiritunder trial

has

normal

the

trial is made.

the

moment

varies from

temperature

this normal

of

60"

When

60", the

true

Fahr.

the

at

the

temperature

percentage

can

onl}^by a long and tedious calculation.

tables have been prepared by
To avoid calculation,
far as
the inventors
of hydrometers to relieve,as
the difficultiesinvolved in bringinga sample
possible,
liquorto the normal temperature for testing,whereby
the tests are
applied at whatever
temperature the
hquor happens to be, and this carefullynoted, and
corrected
from
the
the reading of the instrument
time.
convenient
at a more
or
tables,either at once
alcohol and J pure water
Proof spiritis J absolute
than this percentage
If it contains more
by volume.
of alcohol it is above proof,and if less alcohol than ^
by volume it is below proof. H3'drometersare made
the proof of a spirituous
that show
at once
liquor.
tables provided also, reference to which
There
are
will show
what
proof a spiritwas from a reading on
l3e ascertained

Tralles'

other

h3^drometer,or specific-gravity
also provided whereby,
instrument.
Tables
are
knowing the proof or percentage of a given sample
of water
to bring it to proof
of liquor,the volume
of
is at once
given, or if below proof,the volume
alcohol of 90% to bring it up to proof.
or

any

20

THE

To

Convert

DYEING

Degrees

AND

CLEANING

into

Baume

SpecificGravity.

Subtract
the
liquidsheavier than water:
from
degrees Baume
145, and divide by 145; the
quotientis the specific
gravity.
Add
For liquidslighterthan water:
the degrees
Baume
to 130, and divide it into 140; the quotient
is the specific
gravity.
For

To

Convert

SpecificGravity

into

Degrees

Baume.

For

liquidsheavier than water : Divide the specific

der
gravityinto 145, and subtract from 145 ; the remainis the degreesof Baume.
For liquidsfighterthan water:
Divide the specific
gravityinto 140, and subtract 130; the remainder is
the degreesof Baume.
The

Art

uniformly and

of

Fixing Coloring-Matters

'^fast"

on

silk,cotton, wool, linen,

etc.,is called dyeing. It is

the

chemical

process,

and

varies

considerablywith the different

fibres mentioned.
The
fibres,too, have different
affinities for dyewares, animal
fibres far exceeding
vegetable fibres in this respect with most of the dyewares

The

process

in use,
animal

no

matter

whence

their

fibres in their natural

state

invariably
containing

by washing in water
and alkali,either potash or soda ash.
Coarse
soap
wool
requires less scouring material than fine,but
definite directions can
be given except to
no
very
be kept as near
say that the scouringbath should
requireto

be cleansed

source.

OF

130" Fahr.
in the water

as
so

TEXTILE

21

FABRICS.

possible.There
that a good suds

should

be soap

will form

when

enough

briskly

and alkali sufficient to make

the suds "stand
agitated,
up."
Unfortunately the unavoidable
tendency of
alkaline

solutions

upon

break

them, i.e.,
they

animal
with

fibres is to

less strain than

enfeeble

previous

cleaning.
Care in regulatingthe heat, and
in keeping the
alkali content
of the bath at a minimum, justsufficient
insure proper
to
cleaning,is essential,or serious
weakening of the fibre may result;also to avoid prolonged
to

with

necessarily
pretty strong scouring-solutions
; 20 per cent of the natural strengthof
sheep'swool is about the average of tensile strength
lost in the alkali-soap-and-water
treatment
monly
comas
and often far exceeds
practisedin woollen-mills,
contact

that.
The

cleaningof sheep'swool by volatile solvents

immersion
in gasoline,benzine,
whereby is meant
petroleum ether,carbon disulphide,
etc., to remove
all oily matters, followed by a thorough dusting,socalled willowing entirelyobviates
able
objectionvery
effects of alkaline scouring. The wool is entirely
uninjured in strength or color. The strain required
the cloth made
to break
from it is very greatly increased
and the waste
in cardingand breakage during
lessened.
Time
spinning and weaving very much
saved from no breaking of warp
is considerable;
or
filling
ward
besides,too, all knots thus made must be afterremoved
by burling,the burlers often being an
expensive part of mill help.
"

"

22

THE

DYEING

CLEANING

.IXD

It

seems

made

been

along

have

above
the

extreme

and

the

use

strange that

ven^

been

this line.
for

known

conservatism

The

facts set
3'ea.rs, but

some

of textile

forth

as

owing

to

manufacturers

fear entertained

prejudiceand

of volatile and

has

little progress

so

regardingthe
liquidsin large bulk

inflammable

peoplenot famihar with them, has so far been

sufficient to precludeany verj' extended
or
persistent
of working.
effort to bring forth a perfectedmode
In the wi'iter's opinion,based upon
tended
some
quite exexperiment and research along this line,one
of the
the perfection
tithe of the efifortexpended upon
as
now
practisedfor the production of synthetical
process
colors,as indigoor ahzarine. directed to the
in solvent cleaning of wool,
perfectionof methods
among

would

practical
everyday
working basis,and resulted in great sa\dng of
valuable material, now
from the pollution
a
menace
of the streams
and water-supply. Silk is freed from
its natural
coating by ''boilingoff'' with rather
have

long ago

neutral

wliite soap

Cotton

fibres

brought

and

be,

and

at

the}^impart their
material to be dyed

elevated

requirethe
which
of water

stock

is done

are,

tint

mostly
their

colored
from

name

sion
by simple immertion
solu-

in their aqueous

Adjective coloi-s
first prepared,or mordanted,

temperatures.
to

be

b}^boiUng

containing1
or

colors deri\e

the fact that

of the

to

water.

may

Substantive

''raw."

it

sodium

to

woollen
4

per

bichromate.

washing after mordanting

is not

material

in

bath

chromat
potassium biIn ordinaiy work
practised.The dyer

cent

of

OP

stock, refills the kettle with

dyeware

dye

the

acetate

23

FABRICS.

mordanting liquor,throws

off the

drains

TEXTILE

dissolved

desired

the

and

water

the

out

therein,and

to
proceeds at once
Other mordants
used occasionally,
stock.
are
of iron, alumina, alum, and
other
some

chemicals.
Cotton
bath

be

may

containing5

of tannic

acid.

sufficient to

and

all air

hour

an

with

in

insure

bath

cold water, and

catechu

are

in

of tartar

it is

ready to

other

for

emetic, rinse

well

be

dyed.

of cutch.

decoction

immerse

rinsingand

without

cold

Silk is boiled
and

bath

Drain

weight of the cotton

is manipulated at the boil
its being thoroughly wet
left to stand till cold, or

expelled,and

night.

in

of the

per cent

The

just
over

mordanted, "boilingunder"

for cutch.

names

Gambler
Cutchine

is

The strengthof the bath is governed

cutch.
purified
by the depth of shade finallyrequired. Thirty per
the
cent of the weight of the silk is often used where
After boilingfor an hour the
ultimate aim is black.
silk is withdrawn
from the cutch bath, squeezed as
and put at a simmering
free from liquoras possible,
heat in a bath of potassium bichromate
1 to 4 per cent
This develops the
of the weight of the material.
a

brown

of the

cutch

the bichromate

upon

several

and

times, adding

at

the

the silk.
much

This

decoction

of

may

weight, even

J the weight of the goods. The

with

time

same

dyeing dyestuff. Silk in delicate

dyed on white material,and by

be

repeated

as

much

silk will

logwood, fustic,or
shades
what

any

is
are

''fixes"

now

as

dye

mordant-

invariably
called the

24

direct-dyeing
processes
or

Linen

neutral baths.

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

dyewares, either in acid

methods
is dyed by same
as

and

cotton.

coming very prominently

A singleboilingonly is required,
into use.
The generalmode
time and labor saved.
and much
of application
is,with woollen material,to add the
requireddyewares to a boiling-hotkettle of suitable
The

colors

overchromed

are

dyewares very quicklydissolve and become

evenly distributed throughout the boiling kettle.
The goods are
now
entered,a gentleboil being kept
by pole in case of garments
up and the goods handled
Some
loose fibre,
a reel if a long pieceof cloth.
or
or
after enteringthe goods.
acetic acid is added
soon
require
well, but would
Vinegar will answer
very

size.

The

for
pailfuls

100

lbs. of material

where
After

acetic acid is enough.

commercial

5 per

of

cent

ing
boil-

J hour

acid,sulphuricacid, sufficient to
the bath, is added; 3 to 5 per cent is about
exhaust
tionable
right,an excess, if not too great, being not objecAfter J hour the bath should appear nearly
with

or

of

the acetic

quiteexhausted,when
potash is added. The
the color. The dry

to increase

its bulk and

equal bulk
sprinkledonto

an

With

garments

of

bichromate
bichromate

ops
potash develpotash,mixed,

of
of

with
of effect,

evenness

crystaUizedGlauber

loose stock with

or

of bichromate

1 to 3 per cent

yarn

no

they may

fear of

about

salt,may

be

doing injury.

be lifted out and the

potash dissolved in the bath and goods

returned for i hour more
boiling. If the goods are not
have
dark enough,or of the rightshade,they may
now
bichromate

of

made

additions

to the

25

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

dye bath, in

weight of

10 per cent of the

well to firstadd

case

it is

the

goods

which

Glauber
salt. Many
dyers add this
crystallized
if
before they start the dyeing at all,in which
case

of

the shade

If the Glauber

wasted.

as

to draw

usuallybest
color the
With

as

same

of these
a

and

sort

of wax,

salt is not

liquidin

same

hand,

on

the

which

it is

dyeing

goods now take

chrome-mordanted
goods.
familiar to you, notably the

not

oz., in

it may

wares

salt is the

Glauber

start afresh.

greens,

off the

any

dyewares

bright blues
quantity,say
to

and

made

has been

rightthe

out

comes

very

The

it is best

to

try

small

With several
boilingwater.
happen that they will melt

difficult afterward

to

get into

they must be first

cUssolved in cold water before adding to the dye bath.
to stir up all dyewares with
In fact it does no harm
cold water
before adding to a boilingkettle that is
In this event

complete solution.

dyeing. Glauber salt is used in

soluble
that dyewares are more
dyeing for the reason
in
salt than they are
in w^ater containingGlauber
The efTect in dyeing is that the color
w^ater.
pure
to the material
more
on
slowly and evenly
goes
being got ready

than

without

The

acid

to be

dyed

in water

weight

very

acid

an

and

those

are

effect

used

colors

dyeing
true

with

the

it.

and

maximum

material

for

that

Sulphuricacid
salt equal to
Glauber

of material is added.
also

their

by simply boiling the

gether
containingthe dye tois most

acid.

salt,is

give

used, and

10 per

Sodium
may

monly
com-

cent

of

bisulphate,
satisfactorily

26

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

replacethe sulphuricacid and Glauber t^alt. Many

acetic acid equal to 5 per cent
dyei'suse commercial
Acetic acid in most
of the weight of the material.
the bath, but it starts the dyewill not exhaust
cases
ing,
monly
slowlyand evenly,and then sulphuricacid (comcalled oil of vitriol)
or
bisulphateof soda is
added to complete the dyeing. Most of the acid dyes
be successfully
after-chromed.
The
shade
is
may
and
usuallychanged thereby,becomes darker, fuller,
resistant to the action of sunlightand all things
more
else that tend
The

to

fade

colors.

direct

dyeing colors dye in a neutral bath.

Many of them will dye both animal and vegetable
fibres to approximately the same
shade when
boiled
togetherin the same
dye bath. The mode of operating
is to prepare

the bath

the

boiling-point.
In dyeing full piecesof cloth they are
usuallysewn
in and run
around
by the reel until thoroughly wet,
the temperature being raised in many
cases
quite to
the boil.
This
insures the thorough wetting and
softeningof the goods and partialcorrection of the
hardness
is often

of the water;
made

the extent
The

dyewares

side-tub.
and

the

allowed
The

steam

to

better

above

run
or

near

or

effort in that direction

of sal-soda
of the

meantime

dye dipped

cotton

dyes
and

The

cent

have

or

further

by addition

of 2 per

at

source

into the

ammonia

or

weight

of the

goods.

dissolved

been

of heat
feed-box

180"

temperatures below
Falii\

the

in

is removed

and

the

dye i hour at 180"-200"

contained
in the
vegetablematter

at

in the

to

cloth
Fahr.
cloth

boiling-point

2S

Sulphuric acid
1 cent

lb. in

per

CLEANING

AXD

DYEING

THE

fcommercial

carboys.

For

it is safer to have

use

it reduced, 1 part acid to 4 parts water.

the acid into the water, and
The

about

purity) costs

Always

the water

never

pour

into the

sulphuric acid (oil of \itriol)

with water
heating of the mixture.
produces much
If the water
should be poured without
agitation
upon
the sulphuricacid, it being much
lighterin weight
float upon it. At the line of conthan the acid,may
tact
acid.

union

of

sufficient heat

develop

may

to

cause

an

plosion.
ex-

Sulphuricacid, if added without dilution

to hot water, produces a violent explosionat once.
Strong sulphuricacid is \dolentlycorrosive,but not
dilute, it tastes pleasantly,
Ix)isonous.Sufficiently
and is not injurious. Oxalic acid is a white crystalline
and used largelyin dyesubstance, is ix)isonous,
ing
of potash as a mordant,
along with bichromate
f

as

much

oxalic acid

as

in dilute solution
acid

ever

an

It does

materials.

cotton

not

tack
at-

Sulphuric

cotton
dilute,if spatteredor spilled
upon
allowed to dry, makes
if
hole.
Therefore
a

so

cloth and
such

bichromate.

accident

occurs,

at

once

appty dilute ammonia

complete^ volatile

is
lil^eraU}^The ammonia
ordinary temperatures, and therefore
to mucous
surfaces,as the eyes or

harmless

at

cept
ex-

mouth.

Caibonizing.
this connection

In

it may

be

interestingto

that this property of

and
matters

useful
from

sulphuricacid has
in the removal
application

woollen

material.

Wool

very

of

comes

note

sive
exten-

vegetable
to

mar-

OF

29

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

justloaded down with burrs,chaff,and

frequently
to
hayseed. Tailor's clipsand old garments come
tentiona
the shoddy-manufacturerwith all accidental and inket

of cotton

mixtures
the

of all-wool

manufacturer

after the most

and

matters

and

from

his

exclude

to

Also

thread.

finds that

goods

scrupulous care
cotton

cotton

goods,

even

vegetable

there

is still a

quantity that gets into them and shows up

as specks.
all cheaply and
These
are
objectionablematters
removed
by simply soaking the wool
expeditiously
solution of
rags, shoddy, or cloth in a 5 to 7" Baume
of
removing as much
sulphuricacid (oilof vitriol),
the "soak"
liquoras possibleby draining,centrifugal
force (hydro-extracting),
or
squeeze-rolls.Then the
in
in an oven
baked
material is dried and finally
or
certain

some

heated to 220 to 230" Fahr. for half

way

The

and

result is that cotton

black

them

causes

to

and

crumble

deleterious action

upon

pronounced if the

process

and

the material

vegetable matters

turn

rubbing in

any

way

dust.

The

fibre is not

very

friction and

(burnt),and

or

the

cloth

hour.

an

fall out
wool

as

is expeditiously
carried out,

promptly

rinsed and

ized
neutral-

usuallysal-soda or
soda ash.
the acid becomes
In case
spattered or
woollen
spilled on
materials,especiallyif colored
with
vegetable dyes, as logwood, fustic,etc., the
after

color

is

allowed
to

them.

case,

as

rinsingwith

sure

to

to

an

affected

be
the

Some

caution
the

"

in shade

if the

acid

is

goods; therefore apply ammonia

dry on

where

alkah

goods

should
are

exercised

in this

acid-dyed the

color is

be

30

removable

to

follows then

greater or
that

garment of wool
have

less extent

much

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

by ammonia.
unevenly faded cloth

or

silk that has

or

the color removed

been

It
or

acid-dj^ed
may
goods in a bath

by boilingthe

It is also a fact that the same

containingammonia.
(stripped)
coloring-matter that has been removed
be re-appliedto the goods, thereby restoring
can
them
to nearlytheir originalshade by simply making
the bath acid and returning the goods and boiling.
Sulphuricacid is most used, but oxalic,muriatic, and
in

some

will do

acid

acetic

cases

the

It is

work.

monia
erroneouslystated that boiUng woollen cloths in amis injurious
to the goods. This is true if carried
is not to be considered,
to extremes, but practically
cloths
if any moderation
at all is practised.Woollen
until tendered, but, as
be boiled in clear water
can
with ammonia, it takes a long time, a whole day, or
With
white goods of any kind the boiling
more.
even
of cleansing,espewith ammonia
is a good method
cially

goods are looked

treated according to

if the
or

stains

or

drop

fruit- and

of oil and

then

javelle;muriatic

or

oxalic

if of

chlorine
acid

in

soap,

oily nature;

an

water
case

spots

any

with

their nature

soap,

with
grass-stains

first and

over

or

eau

of rust.

de
A

powerful,and in skilful hands, a good spotof potash

is equalparts powdered bichromate
remover,
and oxalic acid.
Damp the spot, apply the mixture
the
and a drop or two of water; rinse at once, when

very

stain

seems

spot is

not

to

be

out.

w^hiter than

difficultto tell by

Care
the

is to be
rest.

whether
inspection

used

that

It is often
there is any

the
very
cot-

OF

TEXTILE

or

silk

in woollen

ton

goods. This

matter

can

also the percentage of admixture

and
settled,
at

31

FABRICS.

operation. Procure

one

mined
deter-

caustic

some

be

soda,

potash,no matter which. Weigh out 100

ware
grains of the suspected cloth; put it in an earthendish of suitable size,a tea-cup or small bowl
or

caustic

will

answer

The

weU.

very

weighed, but use plenty of it. It is

along with the sample to be tested.
in

is turned

thin stream

need

caustic

be

laid in the dish

Boilingwater
The

them.

upon

not

caustic

with the water and it boils up quite

vigorously
briskly. Have a glass rod, a piece of iron wire,
a
or
tents
clean,smooth pieceof wood to stir up the con-

unites

of the dish.
or

silk is

formed

or
dissolved,

will wash

that

In 5 minutes

out.

Often

the whole
into

of the wool
of soap

sort

complete fabric

will

loose thi'eads or fibres.

only some
Collect all that remain
by strainingor otherwise,
wash
dry, and weigh. The weight gives
thoroughly,

remain, and

often

the percentage of cotton

of the

dyer

it is not
of

percentage
under

50

per

and
the

would

cent

wool

cotton

be

as

For
that

necessary

cotton

accurately. If

very

direct.

in

the

he

know

as

the

mixture

any

is 10 per
close

purposes

cent

necessary

and
to

know.
It is
been

never

used

have
possibleto tell exactlywhat wares
in the dyeing ot materials purchased for

wear;

therefore

before

going on

the average
to be

prudent

with

way

the whole

is to try

bit of it

piece. In the

case

of

householder it is expected that the material

dyed

will be somewhat

used, will be soiled

32

THE

AND

DYEIN'G

CLEAXIXG

faded, and too that it will be soiled and faded

unevenly. It is expected also that the materials
is
and will be sure
to do so unless care
shi'ink,
may
taken to reduce the tendency to shi'ink by all means
possible. It "^ill be found that woollen and silk
\\'ith cotton
articles have
been
sewed
thread, that
mixed
with them
in their manufacture,
there is cotton
bits of vegetable matter
and also that minute
are
after dj-eing
scattered thi'oughthem and will appear
these
are
as
pro^^ded to cover
specks. Unless means
accidental
of
intentional or
admixtures, the work
and

less unsatisfactory'.
or
Dyeing
redyeingwill l^e more
is apt to be m too
and redyeingundertaken
at home
small a kettle,the operator has other things on hand
attention to his
does not give uncUvided
to do, and
her dye-kettle,
the heat is so appHed that if the
or
stirred they settle against
goods are not constantl}'
of the kettle,and
local heating
the side or bottom
causes

spot darker

than

the

rest.

If

garment

is

being redj^edto be used again in its present form,

do not rip it in any part. If the buttons are such as
ofT. A garment to
take them
to be injuredby lx)iling,
]3e made
should have
tucks and plaitslet out.
over
Henmied
l^e left to prevent
cases
edges in many
may
the job carefuU}-before 3"ou
ra\'eling.Look over
are
l^eginthat all the requirements of the case
kno\sii so that a union
is likely
to
dye, or whatever
give the best and most
expeditiousresults ma}^ be
selected.
Wooden

bottom

to

heated b)''
dye-kettles
steam, with a
from
the source
keep materials away

false

of

OF

33

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

for dyes
especially
preferred,
the bath is expected to exhaust.
In cotton
where
dyeing where the depth of shade depends upon the

usuallyto

heat,are

of the bath

concentration
of
is best.

boiler is about
with

while

time

rather than

the percentage

upon

kettle

dyeware used, a jacketedcopper

For

crowded

be

over

domestic
the

purposes

wash-

copper

best

and if not
thing available,
materials,and well stirred all the
the fire,
should
give satisfactory

results.
Woollen

articles should

and

bath

should

be

rinsed

after

scoured.

dye-bath should be
is too largeto handle
added

cold water.

plunged into

be

course,

be taken

not

cloth

on

in many

to the kettle to

If the

cold water

cool it down

cases

from

coming

aired to cool it.

in that way,

hot

They should, of

dyeing, and

The

from

the

article
may

after the

be

dyeing

is complete.
A

full

pieceof cloth is tentered. By tenteringis

it from list to list upon
tenterhooks
stretching
standard
width apart; with odd-shaped pieces

meant
set

of cloth and
if before

garments this is not

dyeing the garment

surface and

its outline marked

size,the garment

so

easy

to do.

is laid upon
out

flat

largerthan

dyeing,be pinned
in some
it by
fastened out until dry. Make
or
way
stretching
fullylargerthan before dyeing,as it will
when taken up and duringthe operation
retract some
of pressing. Dry the garment fullybefore proceeding
to repairor press it.
Black
is composed in dyeing principally
of blue,
true

can,

after

rather

some

Still

34

THE

to which

DYEING

is added

CLEANING

AXD

yellowand

some

red to

give it any

requiredtone.
Blue

is shaded

Bro^Ti
toned

is

by

in the

same

in

composed

addition

black.

as

way

of

large part

of considerable

red,

yellow and

and

is

little

blue.
Green

is

of
composed principally
slightadditions of red are used, and

blue

and

darken

yellow;

the shade

fast.

very

Pm'ple and

lavender

composed of red and

and either may
predominate.
Orange is composed of yellow and red, and
addition

of

blue shades

some

color is red

Wine

yellow and

some

y xr

is brown

Maroon

are

toward
rapidlj^
with very
principally,

blue

by

olive.
little of

part of blue.
in tone, while

red

is very

much

in

preponderance.
Grays are, like all colors,composed of the primary
colors red, yellow,and blue.
In practiceit is easier
rule to combine
as
a
a
dye 'ssdth a brown and
giTen
black, shading at the last with yellow if necessary.
Slates

bluish gray

are

and

may

have

cast

toward

hrowa.
Tan
is

but

color

means

different

different

thingsto

generallyaccepted to

mean

people,
lightyellowish

brown.
Scarlet is

red shaded

with

yellow.

Of

the
introduction
are
comparatively recent
strippines.These are usuallywhite powders, soluble
in

acidulated

manufacturer

with

water

puts

out

one,

the
and

aid

of heat.

they

are

Each

all for the

36

where
especially

customers,

unequall3\
rapid in many
but

is

there

woollens

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

garment

has

faded

goods it is not so
chlorine or bleachingpowder,
as
cases
less risk of
tendering" the goods. On

On

and

the

cotton

linen

'^

chlorine

admissible

is not

for this purpose,

goods and attacks the mordant.

Union
tinue
dyes are at present,and probably ^ill conto be, of more
vating
generaladaptationto the renoof garments than any other class of dyewares.
cotton colors
The}' are often mixtm'es of direct-dyeing
of unwith neutral wool colors,and again they are
mixed
as

it tenders

the

composition. For the purposes of this work

their composition is not
material, but for large
manufacturingestablishments it is cheaper,as a rule,
their ow^
make
to buy all dyewares separate and
mixtures
to suit requirements. Union
dyes as put up
that half wools are
being based on the supposition
of but
it is easy to see that in case
to be dyed, hence
10 per cent of wool being present in a fabric,a large
part of the dye in a union dye mixture would be practically
useless.
of cotton

The
were

would

same

small

hold

with

true

another

if the percentage
case, and

material must
result. Still
cotton-ilyeing
all requirements it is about
in practiceto meet
as
good as can be had. Percentagesof cotton usually
a

loss of the

fall much

below

50 per cent, but cotton

is much

more

given depth of color than

wool, and it is well to have the preponderancein a
FuU
union dj^emixture
the dyeware for cotton.
on
directions are given later for miion dyeing. The sour
dyes are next in importance for w^ool and silk ma-

difl"cult to

bring to

any

OF

tcrials. As
and

and

afterward.
be

colored

37

FABRICS.

they stain

cotton

very

if at all,
little,

The

produced from weaving

togetherand sour-dyeingthe wool
cotton is either put in white, or may

any

desired

pretty effects

very

cotton

rule

TEXTILE

wool

are

shade

to

contrast

with

the

contemplatedwool color. This is called cross-dyeing.

Very bright and beautiful shades of color are produceable
by these dyes, and are very suitable for
and
and
ribbons
light-weightgarments for women
formulae
and
full
Some
children, stockings,etc.
directions for working these dyes are
given under
Sour Dyes. AMiere the material to be dyed is entirely
usual and important form
of cotton is the next most
of househbld
renovating of garments and materials,
is treated

and

and

in similar manner,

some

formula?

guide. The others,viz.,the after-chromed

and regularmordanted
colors,are given,not in their
order of importance,but in the order of the frequency
with which
to the amateur
they are likelyto occur
that redyeing
of garments. It will be seen
renovator
materials presupposes,
of woollen
especiallywith
the other of these dyes has
men's wear, that one
or
mordant
is already
been first used; and, therefore,
a
given as

goods which is permanent, and no matter how

is always
times redyed or treated in cleansing,
many
dye. The sour dyes can be
present to receive more
put on top of a mordant, if desired; they are in most
faster." Union dyes
instances less bright,but much
in the

"

as

rule go

on

just as

"chromed"
originally
sufficient
to boiling

in

well

where

dyeing,a

to insure

the

garment

was

littleless attention
wool

gettingfully

38

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

dyed, as directed under that head, being necessary.

Sulphur colors and developed colors are not treated,
as

they are

not

fit for the purposes

alkali colors for woollens

and

The

of this work.

silks are

good, and

to be

recommended.
Union

These

vegetable colors approximately

animal

and

shade

in the

union

same

bath.

of animal

mixture

their property of

called from

so

are

Dyes.

goods.

When

and

Goods

that

are

in doubt

as

the

made

vegetablefibres
to whether

dyeing

are
a

same

up

of

called
certain

goods, boil a very small piece

with strong caustic soda or potash solution ; the wool
intact.
Where
dissolves readily,leavingthe cotton
be
the percentage of wool is small the sample may
solution of sulphuric
wet thoroughly in a 5" Baume
230"
out thoroughly,and dried at about
acid,wrung
Fahr.
The
is thereby destroyed,leaving the
cotton
wool. The caustic soda or potash gives the quickest
and is to be generally
results,
preferred.To apply the
union dyes the generalmode
is very simple,and the
in all
results satisfactory,
and they can
be obtained
The
colors,shades, and modes.
appended formulae
white goods to be dyed.
or
light-colored
presuppose
pieceof

cloth

is union

previouslymade about the effect on the

redyed shade of color already in the goods applies
equallyhere. Also the mordant, if any, will have its
effect. At any rate,have the goods clean and remove
old, unevenly faded colors where practicable. The
the dyestuffdirectly
bath is made
up by dissolving

The

remarks

in the

dye

is boiled in

No

additions

need

of assistants

to the bath.

added

side-tub and then

the

minutes, or

few

made

be

to

to

the

entering the goods. They are worked

boil J hour to dye the vegetable fibres,

before

bath

the

below
then

for

by boilingup

bath

39

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

worked

again

salt

the

dye

boiled to

the

below

animal

or

fibre,and

addition

boil with

which
salt,

Glauber

or

woollen

need

be

not

of

mon
com-

previously

into the bath. These

but sprinkled
directly
dissolved,
in the
directions should be sufficient to guide anyone
dyeing of a plain red, yellow,blue, black, etc. A

lightdrab

will result from

using

Y%

of

per cent

Black.

y\

of

per cent

Orange,

^yg-of

per

cent

Dark

Yellow.
Drab.

y^^of

per

cent

Black.

ly-Qof

per

cent

Orange.

1%% of

per

cent

Yellow.

Sage.

Light

of

P^r

"^^ritBlack.

"^-^of

per

cent

Dark

per

cent

Black.

per cent

Yellow

yW

lyo of

Qf a
l_6_7j.

Light
a

per cent

of

per

3^^of

per cent

cent

with

reddish tone.

with

reddish tone.

Sage.

Reddish

of

^
^V

Yellow

Red,

Browx.
not

Orange.
Black.

too

light

40

the

dyeing

and

Dark

Brown.

Red

2i

per cent

Red.

2^

per cent

Orange,

per cent

Black.

Brownish

Light

cleaning

Slate.

yV^ of

per cent

Black,

of

per cent

Orange.

t^Ittof

per cent

Yellow.

to

yV

Dark

Medium

Brownish

j%

of

per cent

j\

of

per

of

per cent

tI 0

Light

y\
yf 0

cent

Black.

Orange.
Yellow.

Bluish

Slate.

of

per cent

Black.

of

per cent

Orange.

Dark

Bluish

Slate.

1^^

of

per

cent

Black.

Y%

of

per

cent

Orange.

Light

Yellow

Brown.

of

per cent

Black.

y^^of

per cent

Orange,

y^^of

per cent

Yellow.

xV

Medium

y\
2i

of

Dark
a

per cent
cent

per

Yellow
Black.

Orange.

Light

Buff.

xV of

per

of

per cent

Orange.

of

per cent

Yellow,

yo^

y|^

cent

Slate.

Black.

Brown.

OF

TEXTILE

Medium

41

FABRICS.

Dark

Buff.

of

per

3^ of

per cent

Orange.

"^^ of

per cent

Yellow.

t\

Light
o"

of

Black.

cent

Olrte

of

Grayish

Cast.

per

cent

Black.

cent

brightYellow.

1^0^of
iV of

per

per cent

brightOrange.

of

per cent

reddish

Dark

Olive.

T^u

Blue.

of

per cent

Black,

j^ of

per cent

of

per cent

brightYellow.
Orange,

ylxrof

per cent

reddish

^
y\

Light

y%
y|^

of
of

a
a

Green.

per cent
per

Blue.

cent

Blue.
Yellow.

Any multipleof these formula) may be used, and

proportionsvaried ad infinitum. The weight of the
dry cloth or fibre is always taken as the unit of weight,
or

100

These

per

cent.

w^ares

are

all substantive

possess the property to

dye

wool

at

cotton
some

dyes,

but

temperature

The
higher than that requiredto dye the cotton.
skill and judgment requiredto successfully
dye union
the heat
goods consists largelyin correctly
regulating
table salt or Glauber
duringthe operation. Common
salt isused along with the dye-bathto cause
the dye to
be more
to exhaust.
fullytaken up by the goods, i.e.,

42

DYEING

THE

in small per

Black

CLEANING

AND

is blue,and

cents

therefore

can

is not the
brilliancy
aim.
Buy, therefore,black: lightblue, which, plus
black, is dark blue; orange, which is equivalentto
red and yellow; yellow,red in two shades
yellowish
and
bluish
which, used in conjunction,gives any
shade of red, maroon,
wdne, etc.
AVhere
particularfastness is required the union
where

in combinations

be used

"

"

contained

may

method,

the

rather
up

to

thin,

Where

over-chromed
method.

shade

The

old

extract

the mordanted
or

is

acid

brought

and
out

while

is but a very small porvegetablematter

tion
the material ''speck dyeing" is resorted to.
from
used speck dye is made
and stillmuch
of logwood, soda ash, and blue vitriol.
of

lbs. extract

44

16 lbs. soda

logwood 1
gall,speck
dye.

ash

V =50

8 lbs. blue vitriol

The

fibre

usually and unavoidably fill

dyeing the vegetablematters.

it will

as

animal

or

the
of

The

wool

by
method,

extent

some

The

be first dyed either

salt

Glauber

twice.

dyed

be

goods may

logwood

bbl. of water

and
for

soda

ash
time.

some

are

The

boiled

togetherin ^

blue vitriol may

be

dry or in solution; in either case the boiling

is to be maintained, and the blue vitriol is cautiously
until frothing
added, the boiling being continued
The speck dye, when
cold, is ready for use.
ceases.

added

Sufficient

quantity

sufficient in which

bath

as

small

as

of

it is added

to

cold

water,

goods, keeping the

and thorough
consistent with even
to

work

the

44

THE

DYEING

CLEAXIXG

AXD

bright,serviceable color.
with Nicholson
Alkali violet may be used in conjunction
blue,or alone; either is appliedas above indicated.
these dyeings can
be
color base from
The
never
other
or
by boilingwith ammonia
wholly removed
alkaline solutions.
Greasy and sweaty garments may
be
previously
dyed pretty successfully,without
cleaning,\\ith these dyes, especiallyif a dark, full
is taken to boil and work
and care
color is required,
the goods in the bath before the addition of the dyelift out the goods and stock the bath
Then
ware.
These
before stated.
as
dyes are useful in small
with
union
dyes,
quantitiesfor shading pm'poses,
acetic acid in the rinsing
providedthere is used some
interest to the professional
bath, but this is of more
of the

dyer

and givesa
series,

than

There

those

to

this is intended.

for whom

is Httle,if any,

acidulatingthese

very

color

colors.

stain apparent before

or

They

are

one

instance

of

entirelydistinct and
apart from the diazotized and developed colors for
cotton, which give a fugitivecolor before diazotizing
the

developed colors,but

are

developingwith betanaphthol,
phur
Developer A, F, and C. Suletc.,sold underthenameof
and quiteas solid.
dyes are simplerof application
The following
are
reputabledealers in dyewares:
with sodium

A,

nitrite and

Klipstein" Co., 122

BR-\XCHES

Pearl

Sty

New

York

AT

Providence, R. I.

Chicago, 111.
Hamilton, Canada.

Pa.
Philadelphia,

Montreal, Canada.

Boston, Mass.

City.

H.

A.

Metz

"

Co,, 122

Providence, R.

AT

Charlotte,N. C.

I.

Chicago, 111.

Atlanta, Ga.

Montreal, Canada.

Francisco, Cal.

Hamburg, Germany.

Toronto, Canada.

Hudson

Farhenfabrikenof ElherfeldCo., 117

New
York
City.
BRANCHES

Boston, Mass.,32

India St.

Providence,R. I.,27
Charlotte,N. C,

Water

Duane

Co., 128

Boston, Mass.,86

Kinzie

Arch

St.

St.,New

York

City.

AT

228 Randolph
Chicago, 111.,

6 Le-

St.

St.

Cajial St.,New

BRANCHES

So.

St.

Montreal,Canada,
moine

St.

Co., 530-536

St.

14 Front

Water

St.

"

East

Providence,R. I=,80

Federal

Pa., 238
Philadelphia,

St.

133
Chicago,111.,

BRANCHES

Kalle

Pa., 9-11
Philadelphia,

Pine St.

509-513

St.,

AT

Bldg.
Toronto, Canada,

Badische

City.

Pa.
Philadelphia,

Boston, Mass.

Trust

York

St.,New

Hudson

BRANCHES

San

45

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

York

AT

Boston, Mass.

Providence,R.

I.

Pa.
Philadelphia,

Greensboro, N.

C.

City.

46

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

Sour

Dyes.

simple in application.Each dealer

in this work
furnish these dyes here
mentioned
can
mentioned, or one equal in every respect. The bath
with the requisite
of dyeware,
is made
amount
up
usuallyboiled up in the bottom of the kettle together
These

with

are

10

is then

very

to 20

filled up

of Glauber

cent

per

with

temperature down

cold
130"

to

salt.

water, thus
to

170"

The

kettle

bringingits

Fahr.

The

acid,

properlydiluted,is added, the whole stirred up, and

then entered, and
the goods are
after working 15
minutes
the liquoris again brought to the boil,working
all the time; i to | hour
cient.
boiling is usuallysuffiThey are bright,and resist action of wear,
well for the purpose
washing and sunlightsufficiently
of ladies' dress goods,ribbons,stockings,carpet-rags,
knitting-yarn,etc.,and may be had in all colors and
shades,and are for woollen,worsted,or silk goods only.
The formulae here given are each for 100 lbs. of woollen
be dyed, of
material; silk or silk-mixed goods can
Silk

course.

takes

largerpercentage

concentrated

more

of

dyeware

Canary
No.

letter O

1 to 3 per

brand

letter S brand

(H. A. Metz
No.

2:

"
1 to

cent

gives a
gives more
Co.)
3

per

(Farbenfabrikenof

than

wool

baths
as

and

rule.

Yellow.

yellow 0.
yellow.
canary

of chinoline

very

of

cent

Elberfeld

clear
an

orange

of fast

Co.).

cast

The
The

of canary.

lightyellow 2

G.

textile

of

Full

to 2 per

wool.

silk and

both

dye

yellow,tartrazine,naphthol
Elberfeld). These wares

(Farbenfabriken

yellow

Yellow.

Indian

cent

47

fabrics.

Magexta.
called

Also

fuchsine, aniline

rosein,

color is soluble in alcohol and

to

red.

extent

some

This

in water,

from the
dye bath may be prepareddirectly
crystals.It will ''tar" if the water is too hot. ^Mien
making the solution it is well to filterthe solution or
through cloth or strainer; | oz. of the crystals
pour
should give a fair shade to 10 lbs. of wool.
The bath
that

so

is neutral
the

shade

Magenta
goods

Uttle soap

usually. A
the

at

is

somewhat

expense

silk and

appliedto

in the

bath

in the bath

of its fastness.

wool

by entering the

Fahr., and

170"-180"

at

brightens

handled

plete
rapidlyto prevent uneven
drying; J hour will comthe dyeing.
Cotton
is first prepared by steepingover
night in
5 per cent tannic
a
or
10-per-centsolution of sumac,
acid for some
time or over
night. Wring out and dye

in

same

manner

brightershade

cotton, 1

oz.

emulsion

in hot

cotton

bath
and

wool

as

out, and
water.

dyed

oz.

and

follows:

as

olive oil are

cooled

to

For

made

and

worked
in

hot

ozs.

tin

into

an

The

In another

are
crystals

in this for

bath

10 lbs.

90" Fahr.

in this for 10 minutes.

sumac

the cotton

water

is worked

i lb.

cotton

on

and

soap

silk.

or

some

prepared
time, wrung

of magenta

and

pure

48

DYEING

THE

AND

CLEANING

Liquor.

Magenta

in 2J gallonsalcohol
crystals
.8200 specific
gravity; a 5-gallon tin is convenient.
In water
hot water, strain if necessar}\
Add 2 J gall,
of magenta
at 180" Fahr., say 1 gall.,
a tablespoonful
liquorwill dye a pairof stockingsor a broad and long

Dissolve 1 lb. magenta

nicely. Magenta liquorfrom which the

alcohol has been expelledby a gentleheat and a little
added
is good magenta ink. Acid
arable water
gum
magenta is a different product. Acid magenta is
freelysoluble in water and dyes in an acid bath.
ribbon

very

Orange.

to 3 per

cent

brilliant orange

or

croceine

R,

R, mandarine

orange

G,

orange

brilliant orange

(Farbenfabriken of

B B

R,

orange

G,

or

(allof Metz);
R

orange

Elberfeld

orange

0,

orange

Co.).

Scarlet.

to 3 per

cent

scarlet R, R

Metz

"

Co.). These

from

Farbenfabriken

R, 3 R,

scarlets.

bluish

are

4 R-6

of Elberfeld

Co., is

(H. A.

Scarlet
a

R,

yellowish

scarlet.
Red.
1 to 3 per

fast red

R,

E-A,

of fast red B

cent

acid magenta

to

sine.

1 per

cent

to 4

(Badische Co.),

R,

new

(Farbenfabriken of
Rose

the ponceaus

or

or

of rhodamine

red R

to 5

El])erfeld Co.).

Pink.
B

or

G, eosine,fuch-

OF

Rose

Running

to 1 per cent

49

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

Toward

acid magenta

Violet.

G, phloxineB,

rose

bengal.
Violet.

to 2 per cent acid violet 7 B

violets.

violet 3 R

Acid

A,

N, N,

4 R

5 B F

S, and

bluish

are

violet R

centrated,
con-

red violets.

are

Blue.

to 3 per

of any

cent

in A

greenish blue

of the patent blues

Full
No.

3 per

acid

violet,1
yellow.
No.

Blues

the

alphabet.

(Sour Dyes).

acid violet 6 B N-10

cent

per

reddish

brands, shading toward

blues in letters further down

acid

cent

give a

black,yV

per

or

cent

any

acid

of either of

or
these,separately,
in conjunction: patent marine blue L E, greenish,
azo
acid blue B, patented, reddish,victoria violet 4 B S
8 B S, patented (allof Metz) ; Alizarine blue B R 3 G,
acid blue 6 B, cashmere
blue T G extra, victoria
azo
of Elbernavy blue B or D K (allof Farbenfabriken
feld Co.)

4 per

cent

Black.
6 per cent

of either of

acid
8

B,

4 B

L,

naphthalineacid
4

in conor
junction;
these,separately,
black No. 3 (Klipstein),
acid black
black B. 3 B N, T N,
L, cashmere
black 4

B, naphthalymine black

B,

50

DYEING

THE

4 B

(Farbenfabriken of

6 B S

K,

alizarine blacks
Wool
4 B

L,

black

from

black
4 B

W,

F
4

B,

L,

W,

black

chromate

CLEANING

AND

B,

T,

4 B

B,
N

B,

Co.),acid

source.

any
6

ElberfeJd

N 4
R

W,
B,

and

F,

B,
S

B,

acid

W,
4 B

B,

B, wool

black

G,

wool

black

B,,

(Berlin Anilin

Works).
The
which

dealers have

various

shades

of the

they designate by letters,or

sometimes

both, thus acid violet would

that

in

would

dyed

indicate

always by

the

acid

an

bath;

certain

substantive

Cotton

numbers,
mean

6 B

gi-adeand
full designation.
a

Direct
The

the

color,

same

N,

10

shade.

and
violet

B, etc.,
Order

Dyes.

colors,
dyes,or direct-dyeing
The adjectivecotton
meant.
are
quiring
dyes, or those retannin to be appliedand fixed with antimony
salt or some
assistant added to the bath, need not be
considered.
Sulphur colors are so called because they
not soluble in water, but requirecaustic soda and
are
mon
bisulphideof soda added to the bath, and lastlycomsalt in largepercentage to cause
tion
exhausproper
of the
cotton

and

bath.

colors,with
aniline

black

cotton

These
the

are

the

most

solid of all

possibleexceptionof indigo,

of the

diazotized

colors,which, together w^ith

the

and

developed

sulphur colors,are
The
not
applicable to renovating work.
sulphur
colors are, unfortunately,injuriouslyaffected
by
metals, and therefore mostly restricted to where
wood
dye vessels can be had. They also tend to spot

52

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

standing bath is maintained, or the shade is

the
to remove
full,it is necessary
beyond medium
with
cotton
to a fresh bath, for any after-treatment
All lightshades
be
bluestone, etc.
may
copperas,
after-treated in the first bath, and it is usual to add
If

along with

the

saddening2

large works,

In

from

the
and

copperas,

to

some

rinse water

liquors

remove

before proceedingto
ofif,

run

sadden

is applied,
with

etc.

Light

Bro^^'ish

cent

per

per cent

direct

per

cent

direct

3 per

yV
^

per

Browx

Drab.

direct brown

cent

direct

Light

black

Slate

1 per cent

Dark
3 per cent

wtth

2 per cent

powder.
yellowpowder.
powder.

Blue

Shade.

direct black
Blue

Drabby

powder.

Slate.

direct black

requiresabout

Slate

powder.
yellowpowder.
blue powder.

cent

per cent

full black

Drab.

direct brown

yq

Dark

often

of acetic acid.

used

are

pumps

cotton, and

to 3 per cent

powder.

10 per

cent

Character.

direct black.

yV

P^r cent

direct

yV

per cent

direct brown.

j^ellow.

of black.

53

fabrics.

textile

of

Red.

There

3 per cent

of

are

other

many

dye; with
equallyas

useful
almost

acids, but

acetic

B.

benzo-purpurine4

proper

well.

of this very

letter brands

manipulation it dyes wool

It is turned blue by strong

acid, unless

very

strong, does

not

frequentlyused to
wool is
assist toward
the end of the operationwhere
being dyed with benzo-purpurine4 B, in exhausting
the bath and deepening the shade; at the same
time
avoidingto have the temperature of the bath quiteto
affect it.

acid is therefore

Acetic

boilingheat.
Blue.
3 per cent
This
wool
with

color

comes

of benzo-azurine

in other

letter brands.

fairlywell with proper

benzo-purpurine4 B, you

bluish

red to reddish

will make

dark

blue.

G.

care.

may

Shaded

dyes
conjunction

In

get

It

any

with

shade

of

black, this

blue.
Yellow.

3 per cent

chrysophenineG.

This color is brightand

and may
be shaded
pleasing,
with benzo-purpurine.In conjunctionwith
to orange
benzo-azurine G good greens are obtained.
By proper
combinations
of these three colors,red, blue, and
yellow,any imaginableshade of color may be produced:
etc.
scarlet,
pink,browns, drabs,olives,
sages, maroons,
Chrysophenine dyes well on wool, both sour and
mordanted.

54

DYEING

THE

AND

CLEANING

Afterchromed
differ from

These

the

have

of

same

bath

Colors.

mordant

colors

the

by

perty
pro-

being absorbed
by the woollen
material from a boilingbath containing,
besides the
dyeware, an acid. Acid alizarines,
top-chromes,onedip colors are other names
They
appliedto them.
These colors do not,
dye well on a chrome mordant.
however, give their true shade by boilingwith the
acid bath.
afterward
have
stock in an
They must
bichromate
of potash applied to the shade
some
This may
be
produced by boilingin an acid bath.
they

done

in the

chrome

is also

or

in

used, same

fresh

of

Fluoride

one.

bichromate

of

potash,
fasten these colors.
The advantage
to develop and
of using fluoride of chrome
is of principal
value only
in deUcate
blue, and such as might be too much
Additions
to the
changed by using the bichromate.
bath may
be made, after the color is developed
same
of potash or fluoride of chrome, and
by bichromate
in the formulas
indicated.

as

given,suitable shading materials

Each

formula

is for 100

oz.

mordant

ozs.

acid alizarine black

ozs.

acid ahzarine

oz.

acid ahzarine

Boil h hour, then

Boil

yellow O (Metz)

12

20 lbs. Glauber

J hour, then

add
add

lbs.

Slate.

Medium
1

are

bro\Mi

(Metz)

B B

red B (Metz)

(Metz)
or

(Metz)

sak.
5 lbs. commercial
4 lbs.

acetic acid.

sulphuricacid.

Boil

OF

hour, then
hour.

add

TEXTILE

lbs. bichromate

of

potash.

Boil

Done.
A

From

to

alizarine blacks

Dye

55

FABRICS.

as

per

Blue

Slate.

dyeings of

cent

give good

slates of

directed for medium

slate.

Medium

"^

Tax.

lb. acid anthracine

brown

y\

lb. chrome

black

(Farben)

(Farben)

yellow D

20 lbs. Glauber

acid

bluish character.

Light

y% lb. alizarine

of the

any

(Farben)

salt

5 lbs. acetic acid

1% lb. bichromate
Dark

of

Olive

potash
Brown.

2 lbs. acid anthracine

lyV lbs. alizarine black

IJ lbs. chrome

brown
B

yellow D

20 lbs. Glauber

(Farben)
(Farben)

(Farben)

salt

5 lbs. acetic acid

4 lbs. oil of vitriol

(sulphuric
acid)
of potash

2 lbs. bichromate

Light

y\
Shade

lb. aUzarine

with

Blue.

blue SKY

acid violet 4 B

extra

if a

more

red cast

of blue is desired.

rlr

to

yV

per

cent

acid violet 4 B

4 lbs. acetic acid

10 lbs. Glauber

salt

3 lbs. oil of vitriol

Ti5% lb. bichromate

of

potash

extra

56

DYEIXG

THE

CLEANING

AND

Green.

Bottle

Dark

3 lbs. acid alizarine green

Ih lbs. alizarine black
1 lb.

diamond

C E

(Farben)

(Farben)

flavine G

(Farben)

salt

20 lbs. Glauber

5 lbs. acetic acid

5 lbs. oil of vitriol

of

2 lbs. bichromate

Yellow

Buff.

lb. acid anthracine

"fQ

lb. diamond

TO

yfo-lbs.

potash

brown

flavine G

aUzarine

black

(Farben)

(Farben)

(Farben)

4 lbs. acetic acid

salt

10 lbs. Glauber
4 lbs.

sulphuricacid
of

i lb. bichromate
Shade
use

with

either brown

yellow D

or

F.

D.uiK

to

wine

with

Brown.

Red

3 J lbs. acid anthracine

Shade

potash
black; if yellowis needed,

brown

extra

alizarine red

desired.
0

lbs. acetic acid

20 lbs. Glauber

salt

5 lbs. oil of vitriol

2 lbs. bichromate

of

potash

(Farben).

(Farben)

if

textile

op

57

fabrics.

Dark

Blue.

3 lbs. alizarine blue B A 3 R

(Farben)

IJ lbs. brilliant alizarine blue G

(Farben)

5 lbs. acetic acid

20 lbs. Glauber

salt

5 lbs. oil of vitriol

5 lbs. fluoride of

chrome,

2 lbs. bichromate

Scarlet

Boil

of

potash
Red.

and

3 per cent

salicine brown

5 per cent

acetic acid

hr.

with

Exhaust

gives a good scarlet before

of potash,when
bichromate
you

5 per cent

acetic acid.

1 per cent

have

dark

Dark

(Kalle " Co.)

sulphuricacid,which gives

of

and

salicine blue 2 R

6 per cent

acetic acid

wine.

with

1 per cent

Afterchrome

potash,which

gives a

cent

chromat
bi-

Blue.

4 per cent

Exhaust
dark

Wine

red.

Red.

and

salicine red G

with

sulphuricacid.
adding If per cent

with If per
bright scarlet. Afterchrome
of potash, which gives a full red.

Scarlet

3 per cent

Exhaust

(Kalle" Co.)

1 per cent

This

Bright

or

(Kalle" Co.)

acid,which gives
sulphuric
with
dark

IJ per
blue.

cent

bichromate

58

THE

DYEING

AND

CLEANING

Monochrome
This
new

As

is

new

the

of colors which

group

wliich

process

Colors.

offer many

to

seems

are

indicates,these requirethe

name

chromimn

in the

color,but

it is used

ammonimn

bath

dye

in the
As

chromate.

also necessary,

the

to

of

presence

properlydevelop the

rather

the

dyed by a
advantages.

use

unusual
of

weak

form

of

acid

is

supphHng the proper

chromium
salt can
of sodium
be suppliedby the use
in conjunctionwith acetate
or
potassium bichromate
of ammonia.
In practicethe method
followed is to
the bath with the necessary
dyestuff,then
prepare
add

5 to 7 per cent

of bichromate
These

are

fibres

absorb

wool

ammonium

equal to J
and
the

of

manner

and

acetate

weight of

the

animal

and

amount

the

fibre colors

d^'estuffslowly

an

dyestuff.
only. The

the

shades

develop continuously,so that the dyeings are level

and the dyer has no
in matching shades,
cUfficulty
as

the

an

extended

after-treatment

final result is obtained

is not

when

the

necessar}-,

and

dj^eingshave
had
the proper
time in the dye-bath. The
shades
obtained
by the use of these colors are fast to light,
stand fulling,
and other processes of finishing
scouring,
and will not
bleed into intens'oven
white
perfectly,
effects. They can
of
for all sorts
be recommended
fast-color dyeing where the shades are not too hea\'y\
in the production
want
They appear to filla long-felt
of modes, tans, and drabs for perfectly
fast and level
dyeings on yarn, raw
stock,and pieces. The line at
present comprises

60

DYEING

THE

14J

CLEANING

AND

fast acid blue S C extra

ozs.

flavazine S

12

oz.

5J

ozs.

amido-naphthol red

llf

ozs.

fast acid blue S C extra

ozs.

flavazine S

6 B

Or"

12

amido-naphtholred 6
acids, bichromate, acetate
6

Same
Glauber

ozs.

salts.

Time

as

Metachrome
These

are

much

B
of

ammonia,

before.
Colors

older than

Mordant.

and

the monochromes.

At

for the most

they were
part sent out as pastes,
sticky,nasty compounds to handle, and besides,if
worthless.
much
injured or rendered
frozen, were
however, these very useful colors for woollen
Latterly,
material are to be had as powders,cleanlyto handle,
not
injured by
easilysoluble and easily levelling,
ness.
freezing,and lackingnothing in their originalfastfirst

Metachrome

mordant

is

reputed to

be

ture
mix-

of
sulphate with bichromate
this is strictly
the case
or
not, the
potash. Whether
chromat
writer finds that equal parts of the sulphateand bigive in practiceresults tending to confirm
the report,and at a less price. Equal parts of metachrome
of

ammonium

colors and

directlyto

the

metachrome

bath,

either

mordant
both

are

added

together or separately,
or
an
excess
followingeach other at intervals,
of the mordant
apparentlynot injuringor hastening
results if within reasonable
color gradhmits.
The
ually
developsand darkens during a boilingof 1 to 2

hours, and

shaded

be

may

61

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

directlyto

additions

by

colors dissolved
appropriatemetachrome
before adding.
and thinned out considerably
in water
colors stand
These
light,washing, etc., very well,
fast to acids,as in carbonizing. Metaand are fairly
the product of the Berlin Anilin Works,
chromes
are
with offices in New
York, Chicago,etc.
In the writer's opinion Cassella's monochromes,
likewise those of Metz and others,are patternedsomewhat
of

the bath

after the metachromes.

collectivelythat

them

worthy

are
or

very

acid

alizarines

mordant

the

at

in the

the

to

acetic acid is added

writer's

experiencethis

colors not

with

made

dyeing

bichromate

of

i.e.,

commencement,
the

dj^ebath

boiled

boiling and

to

of

art

the overchromed

the

that

introduced

are

heated

some
finally

in this:

material.

Colors.

differ from

added

be

may

and

once,

with

introduction

recent

of

and

colors

good

are

Chromate

line of colors that

potash
dye and

In

they

trulysaid

be

can

of all dyers of woollen

the attention

Alizarine
Of

It

usual:

as

the bath.

to exhaust

has

often

been

at

this intention.

done

That

it

noted fullyfifteen years ago.

to do so was
possible
the regularoverchromed
The advantage over
process
in saving of time is not worthy of mention; where
there is an advantage,
great care in matching is requisite
was

as

the

exhaustion

better control and

and

no

the

overchromed

further,at

can

be

of the

is under

bath

pushed justas

far

the discretion of the

color

care

has

to

be

as

much

needed,

dyer.

With

particularly

62

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

is never
first added,
dye ware
because
the shade
is not
produced until after the
bichromate is added, and if then it comes
up too dark,

taken

that

there

is

of

excess

an

no

The

recourse.

aHzarine

new

chromate

colors

safer
offer,therefore,for piecedyers a much
and exact
and
of procedure for yarns
mode
pieces,
while at the same
time the color is truly a mordant
suited to
color and
fast to washing and
exposure,
men's wear.
also to make
It is possible
a package dye,
containingthe necessary
dyeware and bichromate
that,if kept dry, may be mailed or kept ready for use,
should

and

be

acid is to be
and

but

of great

are

2i per

potash.
the

boil.

necessary,

acid.

importance.

Enter

goods at

Continue

with

for

where

cent

per

great

and

care

yet worked

typicalformula
3 per

hour

cent

must

out,

salt,

mate
bichro-

raise
and

gradually
exhaust, if

or
acetic,lactic,

malate

The

would

Glauber

cent

100" and
1

vinegar

bath.

the

not

of

Acetate,lactate

be used

are

dyeware, 20 per
bichromate
of soda, or

cent

cent

use

of

form

to exhaust

details of their

be 5 per

to

is needed

Acetic

useful.

and

in the

everywhere had

is all that

ultimate

convenient

very

of ammonia

be taken

in

malic
may

coming

to shade.

Saddened

Colors.

designationmay be placed all the dye

and many
woods
vegetable substances used in dyeing.
A formula
for using them, favorite with some
dyers
read
would
their profession,
stilllivingand practising
Under

about

as

this

follows:

OP

Drab,
1 lb.

fustic

3 lbs. madder

and

Boil 1 hour

1 lb. copperas
2 lbs.

down

in

vary
about

as

yellow
in
by sprinkling

red

"

Producing

drab

off,and lay over

night.

appliedby these dyers

be set
slightdegree, but may

this formula

way

yellow

sadden

^ hour; draw

Simmer

would

argol

blue

camwood

or

Wool.

lbs.

red and

2 lbs. barwood

The

100

for

ground logwood

Jib. ground

63

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

would

some

be

follows:
The

loss

in
(shrinkage)
by trial or from
scouringis known pretty accurately,
enabled
; thus they are
experiencedcareful inspection
to weigh ofT before scouringa quantityof fleece giving
while
very approximately100 lbs. The scoured wool,
the dye-kettle,
stillwet, is brought alongside
together
with the four first-mentioned materials in the formula,
The

is first scoured.

wool

weighed

mixed

and

in

box,

with

small

scoop

left

prepared nearly full of water

The
the boiling-point.
dyer's assistants now
near
the top of the kettle,
scatter the wool evenly over
therein.

The

kettle is

dyer with the small scoop or his hand sifts

the ground wood and madder
evenlythrough the w^ool.
Help with forks thrust the wool down into the hot

while

the

water, and

as

soon

as

all the wool

and

material

is in

begin at once to pole up the contents of the kettle.

The pole is frequently
simply a saplingdeprivedof its
free of knots,or made
bark and trimmed
by turningin

64

THE

lathe.

The

DYEING

AXD

CLEANING

essential

thing with the pole is that it

be smooth, and straight
not only in direction,
but in
at the side of the
grain. The pole is thnist down
to
kettle,the lower end pushed along the bottom
something past the centre of the kettle,then the top
end is brought over
and outward, the man
throws
the weight of his body upon
the pole,bringingup a
largebunch of wool upon the inner end of the pole.
By dexterous twists and turns he breaks and scatters
the wool about over
the surface of the kettle,
avoiding
to roll the pole at any time so far as to have the wool
fall off ui a large wad
or
long strings.Care is taken
the wool
when
"rst commencing
to pole to break
thoroughly,as the thorough levehng of the ultimate
fifteen
About
results
depends largely thereon.
minutes'
poling while the kettle is being brought to
a

the

boil is the

fetch the wool

the

boil may

centre

usual

the

from
be

rule.

Forks

are

of the

centre

then
kettle

used
so

comparativel}^
oj^en six)tin

of the kettle.

The

wool

toward

the outer

to

that
the

edge

kept thrust under,

''fair lx)ir' is reached, all the stock
that when
a
so
are
now
kept boiling
stays submerged. The contents
The
dyer and help,
quietlyfor an hour or more.
dm-ing tliis inten^al,"get in" other kettles,each m
its turn
\s-ith chalk, or by a board
marked
having
of the kettle is at the

hands

and

dial with

same

time

figuresUke

clock.

'WTien the

his assistant having

or
boilingis complete,the dj^er,
and the
the weighed copi"eras, calls again the men
and argol
kettle is again ix)led
up and the copi^eras
sprinkledon and through the wool. A simmering

OF

TEXTILE

heat is maintained

for

65

FABRICS.

| hour longer. After the

to

poling is thoroughly done, which,

fifteen minutes,the

usuallyabout
the

if the

kettle,and

plug

the stock

allows

and

the

By experience
allow

for

both

tend

sampling

two
''

dyer now

samples

right,knocks
for

to smother

dyer knows

out

"

the

time.

some

how

about

is

men,

much

to

''smothering"and subsequent drying,which

to fillup

the

and

darken

is not

shade

alterants used

or

is

shade

with

to

the shade.

If at the

right,additions

quantity being determined

the

by

made

color,the kind

the

''throw"

are

necessities

and

of the

experience of the dyer. Thus, if the

shade lacked blue,addition may
of logwood,
be made
indigo extract, etc. If, on the contrary, the shade
case

and

were

too

may

be added.

make

the

blue,but

add

to

acid

reddish-blue

where

of acetic

always

tends

acid

or

alum

red, some

also to

Archil,too,

tone.

slightaddition

the

on

will tend

Alum

lighterthe

material

quite up

not

is

brightenand
favorite red

effect is desired.
phuric
dilute sul-

very

prevent darkening by

to

smotheringand drying.
The
in each
are

to

in this
the
in

and

followed

be

colors.

respect

some

are

who

amateur
way

results,be
of

every

and

wares

additions

kettle is poled at the time

well

working.

These

case.

in every

directions for

case,

and

carefullyand

Men

joy

forever

to

with
well
the

stays persistentlyat

moving
repaid

his
for

goods about
his

are

made

poling

all

dye-

trained

dyer, and

poling or
will,by the

painstaking method

66

THE

Bl.\CK.

COPPER.\S
For

is

black
of

lbs. of woollen

110

sunlightthan

is the

cloth,white

favorite because

gray.

This

it resists better the

action

or

black.
bichromate-of-jx)tash

It

has

the

black

broadcloth

CLEAXTXG

AND

DYEING

of

daddies.

our

It

being sensitive to acids,tn-ine, etc. It is

partlya prepared(mordanted) and partlya saddened
defect of

color.
the

Tliere is

lbs. the

110

brilliant black, except it be

more

roller

so-called

For

no

nearly obsolete.

blacks,now
goods

9 lbs.

fii-stboiled with

are

logwood extract,

2J lbs. fustic extract,

well dissolved
to work

the

added

and

to sufficient water

afterward

goods, and

in which

hquor somewhat

the

cooled.
2 lbs. oxalic acid

and

added

is next

and

for fifteen minutes

worked

2yV lb'?-bluest

one

3 lbs. copperas

sprinkled on, and

minutes, the whole is brought
are

then

boiled j hour.

the cloth and

color is

now

be filled up

in

of

gray

no

21 lbs.

to

the

Pam

working fifteen
boil along with

off and

rinse.

The
is to

specialcharacter,and

fresh bath

after

with

logwood extract,

2 J lbs. fustic extract,

for fine
needed.
cool

with

goods;
Dissolve

extracts

stock
and

somewhat
add

them

less is
to

the

bring slowly to the boil while

goods. Logwood and fustic extracts are
constant
quantities.

d^^e bath

working the
by no means

the

coarse

and

68

DYEING

THE

housewife

hoped manj" a
and does, dye

will yet be found

them

with

CLEANING

-VXD

who

things for

various

can,

her

use

adornment.

and

Crossdyeing.

Crossdyeingis the term applied to that form of

manufacturing of cloths wherein two fibres are used,
of which, usually the cotton, is ''stock-dyed,"
one
colored the desired shade before carding and spinning,
i.e.,
and the wool,and perhaps silk also,carded along
After the piece
with it,that is,white, or uncolored.
it is piece-dyedto bring the wool and silk
is woven
to

the

shade

same

the

as

There

cotton.

has

been

comparativevalue of
of crossdyeingwith the more
methods
recentlyperfected
the argument being
method
of ''union dj^eing,"
said and

much

that

where

treated

before

by

each

into

than

this mode

about

fibre

methods

making

permanent
course

written

was

the

taken

by

itself it could

be

pecuHarly suited to it and dyed

cloth,therebygettingcolors more

could
of

otherwise

be

obtained.

procedure presupposes

that

Of
for

the
crossdyeingthe color put on shall withstand
followingprocesses without alterations that would
injureit. This argument is perfectlytrue and well
both
founded, and carried into practicever}^ largely,
all the fibres enteringinto a pieceof
for stock-dyeing
cloth, and also where a portion is left white and
afterward piece-dyed;or, as technically
called,cross-

dyed.

Since

the introduction

for cotton, the

of the

sulphur colors

supporters of the argument

dyes for wool, any

animal

and
fibre,

for separate
cotton

or

OF

TEXTILE

69

FABRICS.

vegetable fibre,have had their positionvery

much
strengthened. Still it remains to be said,for
the union-dyed side of the argument, that the trouble
involved in the separate dyeing for each
and expense
fibre is too great, the time requiredis too long; also
that in the present state of the art of dyeing,union
dyes have been found that color very nearly as permanently
the separate methods
as
can
do, and for
any

domestic
The

purposes

convenience

this may
to the amateur

be assumed

dyer

is so

to

be true.

very

great,

saving,as the process does, so many

handlings and
manipulations;the elimination of chance for mistake
or
accident; the freedom of the finished work from
"specks"; the simultaneous and equal coloring of
and thread, make
the advantages of
linings,
facings,
union dyeing,for renovatingpurposes, very apparent.
is saved the trouble,even
Still further,the amateur
of selecting
if he had the skill necessary,
appropriate
proportionsof red, yellow,and blue to produce any
color,or shade of color. The dealer or package-dye
attends to this,and consequentlythe dyeing to
man
renovate
a
garment is reduced to great simplicity.
for the amateur
It only remains
to dissolve his dye
in an appropriatevessel,and heat and stir about his
to ensure
goods carefully,
very good and satisfactory
be dyed upon
results. Sky-blue cannot
black,goes
saying; neither can a green garment be dyed
of
red.
Still,the faded garment always admits
fresheningup with a dye suitablyselected for the
Another
form of crossdyeinginvolves the
purpose.
stock or yarn
be
so-called resist dyeing. The
may
without

70

THE

DYEING

AND

CLEANING

dyed an appropriatecolor,and afterward treated to

a
''resist/'
whereby its property of absorbing more
in with white or other
dye is destroyed,and if woven
colored
not
having the resist upon
it, will
yarn
appear

as

line

or

checked

pattern after the

woven

piece is ''crossdyed." The process consists,after

lowed
dyeing the checkingthreads,of applying tannin folby a solution of tin salt,but is of no special
interest to the amateur
dyer. Crossdyeing is also
the term
applied to that form of all-wool,all-silk,
all-cotton manufacture,where
or
part of the yarn is
first colored
is of white

black

and

the rest of the warp

and

weft

light-colored
yarn, and then afterward
piecedyedred, yellow,green, brown, etc. The black
part is not very noticeablyaltered by this treatment,
and is sometimes
made
somewhat
lackingin fulness
that the crossdyeingis expected to ''fillup." The
object in so doing is usuallyto have the strong soap
and alkaline liquids
used in fulling
and scouring come
ment,
only upon the black that is fullyequal to such treatwhen
delicate and
a
bright shade of green,
red, yellow,etc.,might suffer by the treatment, and
is
can
just as well be put on later. Another reason
that piecesare often treated with carbonizingliquids
for the removal
of any accidental admixtures,or the
unavoidable
of cotton and vegetablematter
presence
generallythat show up unpleasantlyas "specks" in
the finished goods. Many colors will not withstand
the strong acid treatment
of carbonizing,and therefore
they are not "put on" until this part of the work
is done.
Carbonizingconsists in wetting the speckor

TEXTILE

OF

71

FABRICS.

forming admixtures, and unavoidably the rest of

liquidthat after drying will
piece,with some

the
act

enough to
vegetablematter
energetically
it fall into powder by friction. A heat of about
make
chamber
230" Fahr. in a properlyconstructed
oven
or
is usually employed for the drying, but often and
better it is practisedto first dry the goods after
duce
coming from the carbonizingliquidand then introchamber.
Time
into the higher heated
them
is saved by having the liquidspretty strong and the
the

upon

heat

pretty high. It is also better that the

treatment

sharp than too prolonged,the

the
color seeming to withstand
animal
fibre and
treatment
perfectlyif completed in a few hours,
if prolonged for two
when
iously
days they would be sershould

be

short

and

affected.

Mordanted
For

the purposes

(mordant)

Colors.

Wool

of this work

is understood

to

be

regularpreparation
3

per
of

cent

of

the

potash,2J per
solved
of the weight of the goods of oxalic acid, discent
in the hot bath of about 30 gallonsof water
to each 10 lbs. of material and the goods boiled therein
for IJ hours and the goods drained off,cooled, and
A medium
rinsed in tepid water.
preparationis J
oxalic acid
of potash and
the
bichromate
above
the regular preparation. A
boiled same
as
light
preparationis 1 per cent of bichromate of potash and
the first.
1 per cent of oxalic acid, appliedsame
as
The
preparationsare efficient immediately at the
weight

of the

goods

of bichromate

72

DYEING

THE

Pieces

if left

of

over

for
value, especially
of

boihng,but if aired,and
night, acquire additional
shades
where
quirements
especialre-

hour

expirationof the IJ
left some
time, or

CLEANING

AND

dark

and

fastness

should

night

over

bloom

essential.

are

folded

be

fairly

smooth.

proceedingto dye,
felted places,
snarls and
otherwise.
A good way
to

be, before

should

stock

Loose

picked apart to remove

produced b}^ boilingor
J
prepare the dye bath is to fillthe kettle to about
its capacit}^and boil up the dj^ewarestherein,until
solution is assured, then fill up the kettle,add the
acetic acid, etc.,and proceed at once
to
assistants,
the

enter

before heat
boiled

and

matched,

is to be exercised

care

is not

ware

weighed

with

examined

but

made,

or

lb. anthracine

some

to

correct

the

time,
exhaust

about

160"

Regul-\r

brown

dark
are

dve-

the

goods are
boil,and in no
can

is
each

easilybe
hard

position.
pro-

for 100 lbs.

say

addition

bath.

Preparation.

R, } lb. chrome

Elberfeld

water,

further
the

to

much

too

fabric:

(Farbenfabrikenof
to

too

followingformulae

woollen

that

Additions

got

once

Yellows-Brown,
I

coming

the mark.

color

The
wool

be

that
first,

at

up

when

care

to overshoot

case

should

bath

for, sa}^, 15 minutes

goods are worked
is applied,
then graduallyraised to boiling,
If a shade is to be
1 hour, or to shade.

The

Fahr.

The

goods.

yellow

Co.),acetic

acid

lbs.,and,

after

enough
boihng

of acetic acid sufficient

TEXTILE

OF

Slate.

Pearly

lb. acid alizarine black

Light preparation:y%
fabriken

lb. alizarine red

powder, j-^

73

FABRICS.

of Elberfeld

Co.), 2

Medium

Light

powder (FarbenBoil

lbs. acetic acid.

Blue.

lbs. alizarine blue S powder,

Regular preparation:2

Boil 40 minutes.

2 lbs. acetic acid.

Medium

Blue.

: 2 lbs. alizarine blue B

Regular preparation
powder, 1 lb. alizarine blue S powder, 2 lbs.

acid.

A 3 R
acetic

Boil 1 hour.
Dark

Blue.

: 5
Regular preparation

in neutral

bath, addition
make

fustic,will

logwood

of 1 to 10 lbs. of extract
of dark

shades

of

to 7 lbs. extract

green.

of

Boil 1 hour.

Black.

Give

the

goods

with 10 lbs. extract

Dye boilingfor
simmer

J hour
Black

of

regular preparation.Fill up
logwood,1 lb. extract of fustic.

1 hour

and

add

2^ lbs. copperas,

and

longer.
that

is

Fast

to

Sunlight.

regularpreparation.Dye with
6 lbs. acid alizarine black R, { lb. mordant
yellow0
(H. A. Metz " Co.). Boil for 1 hour and add 2 lbs.
sulphuricacid to exhaust the bath.
Give

the

goods

Medium

Give
extract

Olive,

200-Lb.

Stock.

regular preparation. Dye

of fustic

or

2^

lbs. of chrome

with

15

lbs.

yellowpowder,

74

DYEING

THE

IJ lbs. chrome

powder, 12
bath, and boil 1

MEDiu]yi
Give

CLEANING

brown

Neutral

powder.

ASD

alizarine blue

ozs.

hour.

Brown.

regular preparation. Dye with 10 lbs.

of fustic or 2 lbs. alizarine 3'ellowpowder,
extract
5 ozs. alizarine red powder, 1 lb. alizarine brown
der,
pow4 ozs. alizarine blue powder. This is a good fast
be said truthfully that fustic is as
color,and it may
Eh^e
good and permanent a yellowdye as is known.
is not
yellows,therefore,where great brilliancy
your
stock a light,medium, or
necessar}', by giving your
regularpreparation and fillup with 1 to 15 per cent
a

of extract

of fustic.
MEDiu]yi

A
Give

Red

Fast

Sunlight.

to

regularpreparation. Dye with 3 per

cent of ahzarine red powder. Use 2 per cent of acetic
acid in the d3^ebath.
The addition to this formula
of J per cent of alizarine blue powder makes
wine
a
color.

goods

The

extract

and

further

of fustic

addition

of 2

or

that

gives a

maroon

Bright

Greens.

per

of

cent

is very

fast

good.

Give
with

2 per

medium
of

cent

cent

of extract

cent

patent blue

for blue.

Enter

preparationto the goods.

alizarine yellow powder or 10

of fustic for the 5-ellow part

or

1 to 3 per cent

in the

bath

slowly to boiling. After

acetic acid and

work

at

some

below

Eh'e
per

1 to 3 per

alizarine blue SKY

170"
time

Fahr., and
add

per

the boil for J hour.

raise
cent

76

THE

tillthe

goods

are

handsome

very

AXD

dark

enough.

CLEANING

The

writer has

this method.

corduroysby

from

treatments

DYEIXG

the catechu

bath

dyed

Successive

to the chrome

bath

of a wine shade.
and more
The cotton
develop more
becomes
and
be
can
thoroughly well mordanted
topped \^nth log^'ood,fustic,alizarine red, blue, or
direct, ^'ery ser^dceable for lap-robes.
brown
Iron
First

"boil

Buff

fKhaki)
the

out"
For

wet.

of copperas

in hot water

bath

largeenough

material
at

and

the

to

expose

again in

fresh lime-water

the

bath.

loose

caustic

potash

natural

resinous

of

material,4

worked

and

rinse,and
and

cotton

caustic

or

cold water

work

same

fresh

below

color fast.

times

manj^

as

Finally

or

Way.
cotton

is

in

cloth

bath

soda

to

remove

etc.

For

enough.

the surface of the

out

and

bath,

lime-water.

in

weak

the
10 lbs.

Keep

lye bath.

goods. Soak
1 pint of nitrate of iron,wash
dry. The process is simple and
open

dark

water.

of caustic

the

as

Wring

If not

copperas

matter, size,grease,
ozs.

to make

15 minutes.

Repeat

Another
the

dissolve 2 lbs.

air for J hour.

always using
through clean warm

Boil

it

goods. Work the cotton

minutes, wring out, and put

necessar}^,

wash

add

have

to

for the

in this for 20

enough, work
in

and

into lime water, and

once

out

cotton, simply

10 lbs. of cotton

thoroughly

Cotton.

on

out

easy,

well

Drain,

bath

taining
con-

in water,
and

the

OF

Prussian
10 lbs. of wet-out

Work
copperas

for 15

77

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

Blue.

cotton

bath

The

minutes.

in

again in a fresh bath containing 4

of potassium. Finallywash in cold
1

Permanent
A

Work

is cold.

ferrocyanide
water
containing

ozs.

alum.

oz.

put

solution of 4 lbs.

very

permanent
white

upon

sufficient

break

or

and

bruise them

pleasingolive
material

woollen

quantityof

Olive.

as

horseradish

and

color

follows:

leaves.

pack tightlyin

can

be

Gather

Twist

and

pailor

tub.

and stand at rest over

water
boiling-hot
night. Drain off the liquorand add just sufficient
acid, preferablymuriatic,to change the color of the
liquorfrom its first olive tone to a paler and more
Enter
the material
to be dyed
now
yellow tone.
and boil for 30 minutes, gently,and supplying water
Cover

with

that evaporates. To

fix the color all that is necessary

just sufficient

overcome
slightly
the acid previouslyadded.
It is a
neutralize
or
cessive
peculiarproperty of this dye bath that several sucout
dyeingscan be made in it. They all come
is kept constant.
shade if the volume
After
the same
one
dyeing has been made simply acidifythe bath.
Boil up in it more
material and again neutralize to
the color develops. The writer has
the point where
made
eighteensuccessive dyeings,without exhausting
this dye bath.
sadden
be used
to
Copperas may
this color,but of course
be in a separate bath.
must

is to add

sal-soda

to

78

DYEING

THE

does

Eight months^ exposure

an
appreciableextent.

Fresh-burned
it

upon

is added

To

8 lbs.

froth

and

settle

to

vat

for 15

night.

minutes

the

on

Work

and

Of

stirred up

and

for Yam.
filledwith cold water,

lbs. copperas,

and

24 lbs.

hour

and

repeat

for

yellow and veins

and a fine flurryof

becomes

through

run

appears
over

well

lump
this,1 lb.

clear.

Stir well

until the vat

seem

blue

the

Blue

hme.

J hour

of blue

the

Indigo

ground indigo,16

fresh slaked
every

the

until the

powder.

barrel,about |
.50-gallon

add

fine

Use

to settle.

allowed

by pouring water

and

gallons water,

10

to

it is absorbed

falls to

and

out

opens

as

to

Water.

lime is slaked

stone

long

so

fade this color

not

Lime

Make

To

CLEANING

AXD

it

surface.
the yam

expose

to

Allow
in
the

to
net

stand
in the

air.

Repeat
Finally dip

operationuntil as dark as wanted.

containingsulphuricacid
3'am in water

sufficient

Rinse well and dry.

to the taste.
sour
distinctl}^
Several vats are generallyused, dippingin the strongest
As the
first and
matching from the weakest.
exhausted
become
weaker
ones
they are thrown out
and made
thus in turn becoming the strong,
up new,
first dip,vat.
In dark shades considerable
or
indigo
to be

can

be removed

not

much

the

scouring be

b}^scouring with

changed, but

the

well done.

goods

The color is
soap.
will ''crock" unless

Zinc-Powder

The
This

is based

vat

in the

If

hydrogen gas.
alkaUne

fluid.

made

thus
the

in

caustic alkah

finelyground indigobe

reduced

powder
gives off

also present

dissolved in the

and

strong solution of indigo is

very

tub, and the strong solution added

in which

vat

zinc

fact that

and

it becomes

in the water

Indigo Vat.
the

upon

of water

presence

79

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

the

dyeing is

The

done.

dye

to
vat

zinc and caustic

preA^ouslyadded to it some
the
alkali to prevent reoxidation of indigo when

has

strong solution of reduced

is

ready

for

use

If too
the
it

much

continual

roily. A

made

zinc
of

escape

little indigo added

will correct

up
a

vat

as

soon

as

indigo is added.

this

zinc and

difficulty.The

indigo are

added, raked

very

clear and

fine

Indigo

is not

blue.
take

is resumed

in the

sky
a

should

vat

red

or

This

vat

dark

quantity.
3

raked
have
orange

of
quantities
and when
again

up,

vat.

constant

definite
in-

small

blue to medium

part of zinc dust and

keeps

and

the vat

to

caustic,and

clear,work

vat

powder is present in
hydrogen gas makes

much

too

and

up,

greenishyellow to yellow color.

indicates

This

makes

indigo

Therefore

parts of caustic soda

both weighed up dry. Dissolve the caustic

(crushed),
in a teacup or glassand stir in one
part of powdered
indigo,add the zinc dust, stir up, and set in a warm
After J hour
the stirring-rod
place and observe.
should
out
come
looking a rich coppery
blue, the
fluid if in
should

be

glassshould
very small;

be

yellow,and

if orange

or

escape

of gas

red the reduction

80

DYEIXG

THE

has been

carried too

far

not

make

jar

other

or

caustic

Work

for

the data

suitable

potash,and

strono; ammonia

Dye

Cotton

10

Lbs.

of

or

green,

proceed to
indigoin a 6-galloD
Fresh
slaked
lime,

of

To

blue

obtained

vessel.

minutes

15

if stilltoo

solution

stock

yom*

CLEANING

far,and

From

enough.

up

AND

also be used.

may

Blue.

Cotton.

in

of 4

solution

lbs. of

"Wring out. Work

again in a solution
4 ozs.
ferrocyanideof potassium. Finally wash
cold water
containing 1 oz. alum.

of

copperas.

To

Lbs.

10

Steep the goods

extract; have
under

cotton

and

as

and

in

let it lie

in

bath, wash,

same

To
Four

it

Make

over

3
of

can

night. Squeeze out,

Work

for J hour

againthrough lime
lbs. logwood extract
or
an
ume
logwood in as small a vol-

be.

Sadden

and

dry.
Nitrate

glassor glazed earthen

be

boil the

necessary;

work

parts of nitric acid and

placed in
that

may

as

in lime water.

decoction
as

of 3 lbs. of sumach

decoction

water, and ch-e hot with

of water

Cotton.

of

in solution of 2 lbs. copperas;

equivalentof

Black.

Httle water

10 minutes

work

Cotton

Dye

in

kept quite warm.

with 2

ozs.

copperas

of Iron.
1

part of

vessel and
Add

water
so

clean

are

placed
iron in

wire
Take

boringsso long as

or

out

is

ready

kept in a
be guarded against
if breathed
injurious
which they come
in
and

place. The fumes should

during this operation;they are
and corrode various thingswith
of nitrate
The principal
contact.
use
dyeing Prussian blue.

First mordant
nitrate of iron
with

decoction

to 1 lb. ;

Dye

place.

settle for 1 hour.

for use,

dark

To

takes

effervescence

undissolved iron and

any

clear solution

The

81

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

of iron is for

Black.

by steepingin solution of
4" Beaume
for J hour.
Rinse and boil
of logwood, shade with fustic,1 oz.
the fabric

accordingto

whether

bluish

or

dead

black

is desired.

To

Woollens

Dye

Boil the white woollen

each

to

gallonIf

fluid drachm
Add

of

to the bath

goods.

a.

Color.

Gray

material in

bath

containing

gallnuts, 4J ozs. tartar,and 1

Lift.
indigo extract, for J hour.
oz.

3 per cent of copperas;

re-enter

the

Boil J hour.
To

Boil the

Dye Woollens

Green.

with 3 per cent bichromate

of potash and 2} per cent of oxalic acid. In a fresh
for 1 hour with 2 per cent of fluid
bath dye boiling

goods for

1 hour

logwood and 2 per cent

fustic. If not blue enough add more
bath and boil again.
extract

of

of fluid extract

logwood

of

to the

82

To

Dye

Color

Yellow

AND

DYEING

THE

looselyin
Boil

boilingbath.
and

add

per

cent

3 per

of

If the

goods.

bag or not
salt,and 1
the liquor
the goods.

tin
Cool

Enter

water.

the

boil J hour.

previouslydj^ed,it will
skill and judgment to determine
just
be brought to by
and colors they can

woollens

requiresome
shades

what

cold

slowly to boilingand

Raise

cent

per

Boil 10 minutes.

argol.

the

the

Remove

alum, J

cent

by adding

170"

to

1 hour.

work

to

bag suspended in

coarse

Woollens.

or

citron
weight of goods Quer-

sufficient water

with

Tie the bark

Wool

on

of the

Boil 10 to 30 per cent

bark

CLEANING

have

been

10-per-centboiling bath of ammonia

them.
the
colors
sour
pre\iously upon
affected by treatment
colors are not much

re-dyeing. A
removes

Mordanted
with

hot

removed

colors

logwood
greatlychanged b}^boilingin
baths.

ammonia
or

All

of oil of vitriol.

per-cent solution

The

are

5- to 10-

mordant

is

goods can be re-dj^edequally

well w^ithout remordanting. It is well always to test
small pieceof the goods previousto dyeing.
a
not

and

removed,

To
No.

1.
"

the

Dye

Mordant

5 to

10

per

Woollens

Dark

b}^boilingfor
cent

of the

Blue.

1 hour

in water

weight

of the

taining
con-

goods

liquorand make up a fresh

of logwood chip,confined in a
bath by boiling8 ozs.
Boil the goods
coarse
bag, to each gallon of water.
Lift the goods,
again in this second liquor J hour.
the liquor,and add 2i
add some
water
to cool down

of alum.

Run

off the

84

THE

Rinse

in cold

CLEANING

water

To

Make

Acetate

"

of aluminum

Dissolve

separatelyin

sal-

clean water.

of

sulphate. Settle

Six parts sugar

"

of
spirits

ozs.

of Alumiiia.

^Add solution of acetate

1.

No. 2.

AND

containing2
Finallyrinse again in

ammoniac.

No.

DYEING

and

of lead and
hot

barjrtato

water,

use

tion
solu-

the clear.

parts of alum.

cool, and

mix.

Decant.
No.

Dissolve

3.

"

hydi'atein

alumina

cold

strong

acetic acid until saturated.

To

Dye

Mordant

Color

Brown

mixture

partsof

of

alumina

and

Rinse.

Dye by boilingwith

To

2 lbs. of Material.

on

3 parts of
of

acetate

of

5" Baume.

1 to 2 lbs. of madder.

Acetate

Make

iron,each

acetate

of Iron.

ferric

Dissolve

of iron) in
hydrate (sesquioxide
be obtained
strong acetic acid. The hydi'ate
by
may
in strong sulphmic acid, 20 ozs.
dissolving
copperas
and 7 ozs.
acid.
Heat
nearly to the boil
copperas
and add with care
10 ozs. nitric acid,and when
action
ceases, add

sufficient ammonia

to

do^^i

throw

all the

iron.

chloride solution

Ferric

added

has been

may

The

bro^n

and

is collected upon

washed
a

bottle

or

water.

which

some

nitric acid

in the same
precipitated
way.
is ferric hydroxide,
precipitate
and
a cloth filterafter dilution,

be

flocculent

with

to

dissohT
Finallj^

by puttingin

jar with strong acetic acid.

Hints
the

Have

the bath
in

dye bath than a

Keep the goods

weak

strong

dyeing. Don't have

have a long immersion

strong. Better

too

one.

Redyeing.

before

clean

goods

in

Success

to

85

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

short
mider

immersion
the

in

liquidwhile

of
against the bottom
the fire,but keep pushed down,
the boiler when
over
turned
and continuallymoving until removed
over,
from the fire and from the dye vessel.
D3^ed goods
should be pressedon the wrong
side,but if necessary
don't

dyeing;

to press

cloth

are

them
them

the face

on

and

the

it under

use

Iron

cotton

ribbons

tween
be-

put dry dye powder directlyinto the dye

first dissolve

it

thoroughly. If adding
the goods, and
dye to the dye vessel remove
a
portion of the d3^eliquordissolve and add

solution

to

the

returningthe goods
To

iron.

the

away.

vessel,but
with

rightside,wring out

or

damp cloths and stop ironing before they

Wind
them.
quite dry to prevent stiffening
roller instead
of folding and
over
a
laying

Never

more

lie

let them

obtain

the

bath
to

best

and

the

stir it up

well

before

bath.

results

of
dischargeas much
previousdye as possible;try first with boiling
any
hot water, and next
with boilingwater
and
some
ammonia
added.
Ribbons
and ladies' wear
generally
will stripoff. Men's wear
will not as the colors are
of

much

more

permanent

^^llere the old color

new
entirely

color

can

can

be

nature.

be in

put

largepart discharged,

on

as

brightas

can

be

86

the

change

CLEANING

rid

where, if not got

desired
or

AXD

DYEING

THE

alter
of,it might entirel}'

color.

new

Hard-twisted

time
goods requiremore
and weaker
dyes. Light tan shades cannot
in strong dye liquors;have
satisfactorily
weak

to

dye, put on
crocking; avoid it, and
to make

An

is the merest

it

rinse

is added

well

and

wringing too

be

the

tint.

ecru

should

thin

veiy

the

on

bath

dye

quick,is

too

tingein

to which

lightorange
throw

them

very

the

of

cause

in soapy

water

all loose dye is out.

sm-e

ecru

dyeing
be dyed

with.

commence

much

Too

in

little bro\Mi

very

Cloths

of verj^

bath

dye

taken

from

to

the

if
gently,especially
lightmaterial, and are often torn by
in a towel if
hard; best twist them
very

wrmig

small.

Deep red, if dyed

added
to the
dye,
or

of

bro^mish

would

into

the

or

shade.

require about

making

black, requiressome

it black

be

to

will be

black

Conversely a
of

one-tenth

red to insm-e

green

''rusty''

deep green
dye used in

the

pleasingtone

of black.

Fruit
Fruit

and

Vegetable

and

Stains.

vegetable stains,wine
tea, coffee,chocolate,etc., may

saddened

colors.

Sun, soap,

and

be classed

alkaUes,

etc., being the saddening agent, they

fast fixed upon

On

white

can

be

goods

are

often

nothing short of
depended upon to
this

can

be

gar,
vinewith

perspiration,

fabrics, and

bleaching agent
them.

colored

done

very

good

remove

readily

OP

enough,

with

w^ater,cold at first and

that the effect be noted

be treated

should

both

the fabric and

upon

stain.

Weak

acid solution of almost

makes

them

paler,but

should

at

any

only

be

once

afterward,

to hot

warm

general

the stain.

reagent that will remove

stains of this kind

Fresh

in

unfortunatelycolored goods

but

sensitive to any

are

87

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

kind

the

usually

tried

after

For
that way.
possible
white cotton
goods bleaching-powderis the reliance.
fresh and good, is a very powerThis substance, when
ful
bleaching agent. Unfortunatelyit does not keep
from druggists,
well,and often when purchased,especially
has removed

water

all that is

qualityor worthless from age.

A small quantity of the dry powder placed in the
of a glassand a littledilute acid (vinegar,
bottom
etc.)
it should effervesce (or foam) and give
poured over
visible in the glass.
off ^ greenishbrown
vapor plainly
characteristic and is injuriousif
smell is very
The
inferior

is of very

breathed

great quantity.

in any
To

Prepare Bleaching Liquor.

bleaching-powderto every 2 gallons

with a
the powder to a thin cream
Rub
of water.
small quantity of water, breaking all lumps. Pour
pound

One

over

of

it the rest of the water.

clear.

Well

Let

corked, it keeps some

Javelle

Water

Eau

de

settle and

use

the

time.

Javelle).

pounds sal-soda,one pound bleaching-powder

Dissolve
(chlorideof lime),and one gallon of water.
water
the sal-soda by pouring upon it the boiling-hot
Four

88

cold bottle for

AMien

people keep

Many

where

water, and

pailsof

hand

on

salt in 1

pailsare

and

be

to

stored in

and

stir in 5 lbs.
in 1

take

10

lbs.

The contents
of the
pailhot water.
poured together,mixed and settled,
There

are

preparationnot so convenient
no
possessing
greater efficiency.
It is also convenient
on

Javelle

der;
bleaching-pow-

of this

acid

lumps.

made

be

pailhot water,

suitable vessel.

quantity"of
is to

considerable

hot water

from

use.

stir 4 lbs. saUsoda

Glauber

CLEANING

AND

bleaching-powderfree

stir in the

and

DYEING

THE

to have

make,

to

dilute clear and

all the time.

hand

other forms

For

small

and

less
color-

jobs 2

ozs.

be cjuickly
crushed
m
a
bleaching-powdermay
and one
mortar
pint of hot water added, and after
mixing and standinga few minutes,poured off and
through a cloth for use.
be
Table-cloths,napkins,handkerchiefs,
etc.,may
containingthe
put to soak in a tub of cold water

of

water, and

Javelle
with

stick

hour's

worked
the

or

up

hand

and

dowm

several

soak, then wiing out

and

and

times

around

during

put them

into

an

fresh

containingjustacid enough to be perceptible

to the taste,when
they should be thoroughly
in a few minutes.
bleached
Any very persistent
with the fingerdipped in the
be touched
stains may

tub of cold water

Javelle water
A

dipperfulof

tubful of water
to

and

and

to

to

the

sour

Javelle water

for

water

or

is sufficient for

general purposes.

liave the Javelle

once

If

care

free from

twice.
a

is

large
cised
exer-

sediment,
rinse the good^ thoroughlyfree from it, as
water

TEXTILE

OF

well

as

be

at

the

of Javelle water are

applications
guarded against,doing damage to the fabric
point where appUed; not rinsingthoroughly

being most

out

injured.

be

not

in local

Carelessness
to

used, the goods will

acid

any

89

FABRICS.

Fruit
colored

common.

stains do not

such

and

show,

goods except as
cases
rare
they remove

cotton

color,and in

an

as

rule,upon

alterant

to

the color.

the

After

that way,
with water, to get out all possible

treatment

usuallyrestore the color. Nineline

tenths of all cotton colors are dyed in a neutral or alkaFruit juices
bath, and acids will change them.
acid enough to do this,but not strong enough to
are
destroythe color,and alkalies,soap, etc.,restore it
at once.
Blood-stains, if very old, are removed
by
a

will

little ammonia

iodide

oz.

of

potassiumdissolved

To

Detect

in 4

ozs.

of water.

Blood-Stains.

blood-stains

guaiacum and a solution of hydrogen

ether produce instantlywith blood or
if the stains are
tint of blue, even
a

twenty

old.

Tincture

of
in

peroxide

years

or
preparationsare decoctions
the
infusions of vegetable matters, and if got upon
bed-clothing,linen, napkins, etc., produce stains,

Many

medicinal

to be treated

in every

respect as other fruit and

table
vege-

stains.
If the medicines
the

linen for

contain

lie upon

long time, they get firmlyfixed,and

out
come
by bleachingand repeated

what

does

local

of
application

not

metallic salts and

Javelle water

and

dilute acid

90

DYEING

THE

treated

be

must

CLEANIXG

AXD

for

to muiiatic

moment

oxalic

or

rinsed off.
quite strong and thorouglily
Iodine stains yieldto alcohol,and if iodine solutions
few drops of liquidcarbolic
added
have
to them
a

acid

acid

they

do

then

not

oz.

5
glycerine,

white

on

cotton

wath

treated
usually be successfully
1
to

part of the acid and

the stain and

in cold

allow

45

linen may

or

muriatic

Apply

parts water.

2 minutes.

about
acid

Muriatic

water.

follows:

water.

ozs.

All stains not metallic

As

iodine, 6 drops carbolic

of

parts alcoholic tincture

acid, 1

stains.

make

is

acid,

the acid

Then

rinse

volatile acid and

injurefabrics if allowed to dry upon them

like traces of sulphuricacid.
Very delicate colors,
treated with an
where
acid to remove
a
stain,may
does

not

preferablyhave
to

To

neutralize

Remove

these

remove

easy,

but

at the
very

to
same

upon

operator. Good
solvent

monia,
am-

Stains
most

white

from
common

fabrics is

from

Garments.

colored

occurrence.

comparatively
fabrics without

time

doing injuryto the color is often

sometimes
impossible.Very much

the

skill and

soap

for greasy
for not

and

them

remove

applied,than

acid effect.

of the
from

difficult and

depends

the

Spots

Grease-spotsare
To

chalk

powdered

and

water

matters, and

of

perseverance

is the most
where

the

universal

there

is

no

wettirg the goods, soap and water

should be tried. Grease-spotsfrom carriagewheels,
sewing-machines,or any source
containingiron from
of bearings,
carbon from any source, red lead.
wear
or

reason

92

DYEIXG

THE

CLEAXIXG

AXD

passedthrough the fabric at the pointwhere the spot

appeared. A pad may be held under the spot, or a
plate set under to catch the drip. If the spot is
treated

with

here indicated

than
have

Use

white

it is almost

in an}^ other

certain that

largering remaining after

fullyas objectionableas
that leaves

solvent

no

for grease

solvent

when

paper

the
the

stain

dropped

or

will

you

solvent

orates,
evap-

originalspot.
ring on a clean

it and

upon

way

allowed

to

vents
solcommon
gentleheat. The more
are
benzine,petroleumspirit,
gasoline,
naphtha,
distilled tm'pentine
fresh
chloroform, ether, and
a lightif need
spirits.Chloroform
maj^ be used near
The
be, but the others are extremely inflammable.

evaporate

at

so-called

dry cleaners put

benzine,gasoline,etc., and

under
from

which

pressure,

the

heavier

air, and

than

force

is very

and
benzine, gasoline,
the

with

some

To

Pine

Remove

vapors

petroleum ethers are

safest place for bottles
the floor.
or

possibleby careful use

cases
b)^rubbing with
all you

gas

all

There

of the vapors

of

all that is
in

in" ammonia

into

is less

coming

It is alwa5^sbest to scrape off

flame.

garment

efifectual. The

containingthem is near or on
danger of their being broken
in contact

whole

knife,followed

cloth.

Remove

chanically
me-

can.

Tax, Rosin, and

Pitch, Pine

Gum,

Oil Varnish.

These,

if

treatment,
with

fresh, and

can

oil and

all be

the
removed

washing

out

garment

admits

of the

perfectlyb}' rubbing
with

soap

and

water.

93

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

mechanicallyall that you

of turpentinefollowed by soap and
first. Spirits
can
of turpentineand
is very effective. A mixture
water
alcohol,or alcohol alone,may be used, by making a
Scrape

otherwise

or

roll of cloth

remove

using it

and

as

roll is

The

dabber.

quite wet, then struck

forciblyupon the cloth,forcingthe solvent through
Fuller's
into some
absorbent
placed underneath.
be
earth, magnesia, chalk, starch powder, etc.,may
placed under the cloth and a hot flatiron held above
from the
the spot and the rosin,etc.,forced away
iron through the cloth and into the dry powders.
dipped

alcohol

into the

To

Remove

until

from

Wax

Garments.

much
as
as
possiblewithout
Scrape away
to the cloth,then apply benzine in the manner
for removing grease-spots.
To

French

Powdered

gently into

the

as

too

hard

To

Treat

or

Have

use

too

harsh

Woollen

woollen

rubbed

water

of brown

Brush
a

care

over

paper

gets into

wax

off the chalk

not

to

Articles that have

brush

Become

Stained.

articles become

yellowwith

washed,

age

and

and

alkali.

w^ould stay white

longer

repeated w^ashingswith

when
articles,

Silk.

brush.

or

given

clean blotter laid

it. The

over

necessary.

White

the effect of

lavender

thicknesses

several

Yellow
White

from

the ^vater dries out.

repeat if

Such

and

hot flatiron rubbed

the chalk
and

chalk

silk,a pieceof

it,together with
and

Stains

Wax

Remove

injury

soap

94

DYEING

THE

if no

trace

of soap

rinsingin

extra

AND

left in them.

was

this end

To

ammonia
containingsome
articles of specialvalue

water

Small

recommended.

CLEANING

an

is
may

advantageously treated to a bath comjx)sed of

of each equal parts. The alcohohc
alcohol and water
washed
mixture
is appliedafter the goods are
clean,
little soiled,and may
be kept
and therefore becomes
mersed
articles are
The
and used many
times.
simply imin it and squeezed out.
Hydrogen peroxide
is obtainable at drug stores, and is very
handy for
be

whitening small
a largewa}^, but

woollen

articles.

It is used

too

in

to be economical,must
practice,
be as continuous
as
possible.The bath containing
and if allowed
the peroxidedecomposes continually,
to stand
a
da}' or two loses its efficiency.Make a
the
20-per-centsolution of the peroxideand immerse

goods

therein.

Repeat

the

After

time

some

take

B} 20-per-centis

if necessar}^

meant

fifth the bulk of solution is to be commercial

Four
50

and

air.
one-

peroxide.

4 lbs. table salt dissolved

lbs. oxafic acid and

gallonsof water,

and

out

the

goods

laid in for

an

in

hour

Sulphurous acid gas, the

product of burning sulphur,is yet the best and most
used bleachingagent for woollen materials.
Suspend
the goods in a close room,
barrel with a lid,and
or
a
of air to
burn the sulphur with just enough access
and the goods surromided
keep up the combustion
with a dense fume.
Leave them suspended over
night.
whitens

The

them

goods

well.

moistened

sulphuring;repeat if
advantageously be moistened
before

They may
before sulphuring,and

necessary.

in suds

are

very

blued

when

finished.

OF

action of acids very

fibres resist the

Wool
better

than

white

woollens

cotton

linen.

or

may

be

Therefore

treated

little fear of

strong acids with

95

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

much

stains upon

with

comparatively
them, espeinjuring
cially

they be afterward rinsed.

Strong alkalies,
especiallyif hot, attack wool
stronglyand must not be used except for a very short
with the fabric,
and immediatelybe rinsed
contact
if

off

or

with

neutrahzed

acid.
be

Perspiration-stains
may
solution of soda
the

looks

woollen

sulphuric,or
it up

oxalic

after the soda

1 part to 2

and

drops more
Mould

well rinsed.

^^Tiere

upon

of water

should

stain and

be

acid

Ink

treatment.

the

the mould

or

may

and

Muriatic

out

ink

acid

be powdered

stain and

afterward

first with
taken

be removed

oxalic acid may

moistened

added
wet

old that

frowzy, acid, especially

and salt tends to brighten

parts of water,
put

so

strong

or

gray

acid, oxalic acid, etc.

by muriatic

new

and

with

treated

washed
and

few
off.

then the

with muriatic acid.

Mildew, if gone very far,is irremovable. It is a

fungus that preys upon the substance of the wool
alters its structure so that it will not take dyes,
itself,
it so tender as to fall away
and finally
at the
makes
least strain. Mildew
only attacks damp goods, and
in a damp
and
warm
atmosphere proceeds with
remarkable
rapidity.If the goods are at once dried,
the growth is stopped. Woollen materials containing
salt will not mildew, and this
littlecommon
a
even
is

practised in mills to prevent

extensively
the
j^ellow
remedies,rub common
soap upon

it.

For

mildew

96

DYEING

THE

spot, and then

salt,or

same

way.

little salt and

juiceof

the

qualityof
cold

water,

until the

hands;

or

the

and

down

put through

wringer is in

suds

every

wslj

as

and

Do
in

rub

not

far

and

goods

the

souse

them

rubber-rolled

superiorto

soap

cotton
\\'ashing

liquorthrough
The

wringer.

good

containing water
be borne b}^ the

can

as

rub

the

an}"

vessel with

same

put in.

nor
flannel,

squeeze
a

another

are

or

soap,

in the

hot

just as

plenty of

Use

hnen.

into

the articles

directh' upon

and

is

in the

be used

of water,
quantit}^

smallish

pour

bath

then

white

cool down

all dissolved

when

or

in

soap,

Soft soap

sun.

Flannels.

chipped

some

up

the

Rub

that.

on

lemon, may

Wash

To
Boil

starch

and lay in
article,

all well into the

and

CLEANING

AXD

liand

up

and

clothes-

wringing.

thorouglilyrinsing the flannels in clear tepid

to dry in good weather, or
water, hang in the sun
by the fire,avoiding scorching.
It is well before washing flannels to look them
over
for mud, chewing-gum, pockets full of dust,lint,etc.,
and remove
mechanically all that is possible. If

After

shrinking is

wholly

be

to

avoided

the

articles must

kept out to shape while

drying. If flamiels,before making up, are wet out
in hot water, and then suddenl}"cooled,and repressed
after dr^dng or while yet damp, they will not in wear

be

and

boarded

or

washing

the bolt
to

or

in

some

slirink

roll
remain

are

wa}-

nearly so

much.

put into cold hard

mitil

If flannels in
water

they sink, then

and

taken

lowed
alout

OP

drained

they

and

dried

not

lose the

do

shrink

afterward

To

then

Wash
up

flour

Red

or

Flannel.

Scarlet

or

to

quart of cold

minutes; add

rinse in 3

or

table
water

this to the suds.

scarlet flannel in this

do\Mi,and

Four

olive-oil soap.

or

added

are

boiled for 10

the red

and

much.

suds of soft

Preparea
spoonfulsof
and

new

very

Wash

handlingpossible,
will they
nor
appearance,
least

the

with

97

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

warm

suds, sousing
rinse baths.

scarlets. By soft soap

brightest
is not meant
article reekingof
the brown home-made
articles
Woollen
free alkali,
but a good potash soap.
always look and feel better where potashsoap is used,
it should
and
be as nearly neutral as possiblefor
be used, or a
bran may
flannels. In lieu of the flour,
decoction of clean,dry hay on colored goods.

This will preserve

To

Keep

White

In the last
of 1 part of
alcohol.

the

from

Flannels

Turning

of
rinsingput a tablespoonful
oil of turpentinedissolved in
white

The

woollens

Yellow.
a

solution

3 parts of

after immersion

in this

hung to dry in the

open air. The theory is that the turpentineconverts
into ozone
thus exposed to the light.
when
oxygen
The smell of turpentinedisappears,
leavingno trace
are

be well

to

squeezed

out

and

behind.
To

Brush

and

Clean
shake

White
out

Woollen
as

much

Shawls.
dust

as

possible.

it a liberal quanover
Spread on a table,and sprinkle
tity
of ground white rice or potato starch (notwheat) ;
7

98

DYEING

THE

the

fold up

shawl

into
each

between
liberally
then

take

the

starch.

blue

shawl

have

felted

mangy

and

and

and

and

to

Soiled

and

subjectthem

most

shape and
cjuitechy before
be

well
thorouglily

to lie in

open

and

conform

rough

spread
to their

positionuntil
They
proceeding to press them.
but pressedunder a damp
sprinkled,
to

hold

lay
done

in that

them

or

any

brushed

should,before chying,be
to

rubbing,

great changes

allow them

possibleto

cleanse

be to

and

sudden

cloth free of lint. Glen's suits

clothes-brush

should

of friction and

no

manner

Woollens.

varietyof weight, color,

wet, but immediately to

in the best

never

to

Colored

aim

The

Also to not

proper

easy

would

washing
fibres,giving a

Stained

the least amount

heaps when

should

the

much

and

of water

of great

are

of temperatm'e.

them

all

out

lightgray

in this way

the

day,

slightlyblued

very

improved. Any

matted

articles

with

for

brush

shake, and
is

is

fineness of stock.

them

and

aside

Lay

unpleasingappearance.

Treat

These

fold.

process

any

laying the powder

square,

be treated

can

improved, where

To

If the starch

of the shawl

whiteness
or

of doors

out

CLEANING

AND

the nap

all

cloth with

with
one

good

nap

bristle

If this is

way.

pressingis a comparatively

the

task.

Some

colors

on

wool

unfortunatelynot fast to
damped and a hot flatiron
destroyed.
changed or even

are

steaming; that is,when

is applied the color is
This is only true in certain lightand
for ladies' and children's wear,

and

delicate colors

where

the

dyer has

100

DYEING

THE

AXD

CLEANING

Dip the brush frequentlyin the liquid

and
rubbed
when
in all parts, rinse in
sufficiently
imtil the rinsingsare
clear.
clean soft water
Pass
if possible,
or
through a clothes-wringer
press out the
with the hands, but do not
well as possible
water
as
wring. With fulled cloths it is sometimes
permissible
garment.

press them

to

still damp, but

while

it is best in most

dry thorough!}^while the goods are kept in

hanging weights, or in
shape by stretching,
proper
holding them out to prevent shrinking.
an}^ manner
laid as straightas
in mind
Bear
to keep the nap
possibleduring the drying; see that the cloth used
in pressingis free from hnt, and the flatiron not too
to

cases

hot, and

press the

rest of the

garment

and

lay the

handy,

Take
in

them

nap

and

up

the

clean

if still much

carpet with

ox

the wrong
face.

if needed

Wool

as

and

when

soiled and

galland

water.

side.

you

brush

the

Keep

The

work.

Carpets.

thoroughlybeat

good breezy placeto get

floor scoured
and

from

Clean

To

from

seams

out

and

shake

all dust.

them

Have

the

dry replacethe carpet,

the
ding}'go all over
The

secret

of

success

thoroughlywithout soaking
them through. A pintof freshox gallis put into a pail
and another pailof clean water
of clean soft water
rub up a lather upon about
set handy. With
a brush
a
square yard of the carpet by dipping the brush in
the ox galland scrubbingnot too hard, but with just
the movement
that raises a lather, but does not

is to clean and

remove

rinse them

fibre from

the carpet. Now

with

soft cloth

101

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

the

large sponge, not too wet, remove

aiming to get it by frequentwringingout

or

fresh

clear

in

the carpet will

and

windows

After

water.

lather,

of the sponge

all is done

open

dry

Any

soon

out.

the

ticularly
par-

dirtyspots should be rubbed with strong gall

After drying,if grease-spots
solution,only } water.
of

magnesia
]\Iake into a paste with boiling
and fuller's earth.
and apply to the spots as hot as possible.
hot water
After drying brush off. It is best usuallyto let this
mixture
be on over
night and until quitedry. This
operationis laborious,but the results are good. Soap
be used, but it is not nearlyso
suds and ox gallmay
show

easy

to remove,

and

soon

the

and

can

To
water

as

add

sal-soda
coarse

2 per

and

goods

and

solution

of

article may

be

from

or

the most

too

most

partlyfilledwith
weight of the goods of

or

trebled.

soap

in

Pour

carbon

purchased under

It is

tetrachloride.
the

of Elberfeld

or

ammonia

into the water

now

name

of

Co., and

neutral,will
entirely

delicate

With

of ammonia.

amount

fast colors the sal-soda and

Farbenfabriken

valuable.

large,
efficiently

article not
be

way.

vessel

or

of the

cent

equal

an

be doubled

may

same

follows:

suitable sized tub

in the

be treated

Any wool, silk,or worsted

that
admits
being wet, may
cleaned

dust

soiled

dust, and

the

catches

residuum

again. Ox gall brightens

Rugs and
carpet, especially
greens.
table after beating,
be laid across
a

color of the

remove

equal parts

soapy

any

becomes

stair carpets
to

mix

pulverizeand

up,

not

This

tetrapole
is most

injurecolors

sensitive skin, is miscible with

102

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

of
proportions,and as a remover
pends
has no
equal. The quantity to be used degrease
of the goods, and a trial
the condition
upon
if enough has been added
will determine
to the bath.
harm.
If very large or bad greasedoes no
Excess
tetrapolemay be applied
spots appear, concentrated
fear of injury,before or after they
to them, without
have been in the bath.
Spots of grease can be thus
rinsed out without
wetting the garment throughout.
The only precautionis to add the tetrapoleto cold
is wished, add it later.
and if warm
water
water
first,
cold

water

in all

Adding tetrapoleto
water,

water

tetrachloride.

volatile carbon
warm

hot

is all that

Cold

loss of the

causes

water,

is needed, and

or

at

the

most,

odor

is

quickly lost on drying. An equal mone}^ value of

The labor
tetrapolewill do as much work as soap.
and time are
shortened, and above all spots come
more
easilyout of the goods. The formation of lime
and magnesia soaps in the bath and upon the goods
is in great measure
and the goods feel softer
avoided
with soap.
and keep clean longer than if washed
To

Clean

Boards

made

almost

Woollen
to

Stockings

fit the

and

Hose.

stockingsand

hose

are

necessitywhere first-class work is to be

done, that by drawing the articles one by one upon
the washing and rinsingis finished they
them
when
size and shape. White woollen
keep their original
may
socks for laboringmen,
and indigo blue articles of
footwear
shrink and thicken very fast in the ordinary
way of washing and drying. Never rub soap directly
a

TEXTILE

OF

103

FABRICS.

stockings.Where they are very soiled two

baths are
provided, the first very soapy, into
the stockings
best put one
are
by one, but may
the

upon
soap

which

be thrust

under

several

Drain

and

at

time

lifted almost

and

justso they do not drip,

finish the washing in the second soap bath, avoiding
rubbing, but by an effort squeeze the soapy liquid
through their substance, and rinse well in water of
at

once.

the

temperature

same

Clean

To

comfort

Ammonia

and

cochineal-red

turns

is

the spot may

helped by

flufT and

be treated

must

be

not

shirts

oxalic

pretty

tion
Perspira-

worse.

dirty faded

blue

Paint.

Remove

fresh,washes

out

readilyas

as

grease-spot. As it ages and oxidizes it becomes

and

difficult to

more

spots

on

very

treatment

the

paint.

to
striving

soften

delicate

calculated

to

and

rub

the spot with

any
more

Paint-

old,will require

the color

remove

it.

remove

colors,when

Oil the spot and

blend

acid

acids.

To

Paint, when

to

powdered

underwear

for.

keep
soap in the rinsing.
with leather,buttons,
cjuitesharp-tasted

with

rinsed,or

Colored

that
carefully

that

touched

acid, and

salt.

tends

shape

cared

are

appearance

contact
perspiration,

be

if their

necessary

to free from

easy

etc., may
muriatic

Underwear.

bath

soapy

bath.

the soap

very

good

in the

from

Stains

are

and

soft and

them

as

Woollen

for these

Boards
and

squeeze

along

the oil in

with

patiently,

the oil. If the

spot is

104

DYEING

THE

old allow

very

lie with

to

CLEANING

AND

ening.
paint is softturpentine,kerosene,or any

to
days, rubbing occasionally

few

drops

of

for greas}^ matters

solvent
in.

Old

out

like

paint is

lead

if the

see

be added

may

worked

and

persistent.Finally,wash
of such
Large quantities
grease-spoc.
paint and tar clipsfrom wool-sorting

fresh

it for several

the oil upon

materials,like

very

plants,are treated as follow^s:

Weigh up the material to be treated,and for every
solve
dis5 lbs. of it weigh off 1 oz. of caustic soda, which
add

and

to

Crowd

batch.

of sufficient size to hold

tub

material

the

down

under

the

the

water

by poling. Allow to stand for several days

and testingthe
in the cold, poling up occasionally,
spots of paintuntil they spread out under the fingers
and

to

mix

wash

then

smear,

machines

hand

or

in the usual

the whole

tubs.

is

Tar

in

way

resistant than

more

paint,if old. The writer is of opinion,after many

experiments,that when tar has weathered enough to
it.
it is quitehopelessto try to remove
become
brittle,
fresh it rubs

AVhen
The

preparationof
when

of the article

softened
more

is treated

To

Restore

same

the

oil and

for

out.

chloride
tetra-

removing paint when

by oil,and

to Woollen

the color

preserves

fullythan soap
for paint.
as

Lustre

will wash
in carbon

dissolved

soap

excellent

is most

fresh,or

with

up

and

nish
Var-

water.

Cloths

Removed

by Washing.
Brush

the

cloth-brush

cloth
wetted

over

with

the
very

way

weak

of the
gum

nap

with

water.

Lay

OF

105

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

pieceof heavy glazed paper or sized cloth

(the paper is best),and apply a weight,or put in a
used
until dry. Heated
are
press-plates
screw-press
it

over

in

of cloth and

until several feet in

paper

folds

alternated with

for this purpose,

large way

height,then

powerful screw-press is brought down upon it for

the
This is repeatedto bring what
time.
was
some
It often happens in
edge of the folds to the centre.
a

removing a spot or
with it. The

with

treatment

level and the

the nap

To
AVhere

stain from

Restore

the

nap

water

gum

will

rightway
the

Nap

to

seems

the lustre goes

woollens

on

be

after brushing

quiterestore

it.

Cloth.

worn

and

away

the

good body, the nap may be restored

by soaking the cloth thorouglilyand laying on a
hatter's card,
Then
with a half-worn
board.
smooth
cockle burr, or
well-soaked
teasel burr, or even
a
a
Brush
scratch up a new
finally
thistle-head,
nap.
cloth stillhas

the

rightway

of the cloth with

and

press.

Care

must

be

or

taken

without
not

to

gum

overdo

water

this

work.
To

Wash

Woollen

Shawls.

good suds as for flannels and to it add 3

tableof turpentineand one
of spirits
tablespoonfuls
Souse the shawl up and down
spoonfulof ammonia.
and press out and through it until apparently the
in plenty of clear
Rinse
its work.
suds has done
to the hand, and if
to be comfortable
water, warm
Make

delicate

colors

likelyto

run

are

present, rinse in

106

THE

another
sheets
and

water

CLEANING

containingsalt.

that the folds of shawl

so

finally
press

look

very

with

any

with

much

Fold
are

cool iron.

refreshed.

strike

To

Clean

between

Shawls

Colored

of

be
a

detach

Woollen

treated

so

Fringes may

enough to
forcibly

two

entirely
separate,

article like the back

smooth

avoidingto

Four

AND

DYEING

beaten

hairbrush,
the

fringe.

Dresses.

potash (or soft)soap, 4 ozs. honey, the

white of an egg, and 4 tablespoonfuls
of gin. Mix all
well together and add just enough water
it
to have
work

ozs.

well with

the brush.

Such

parts of the dress

as

ripped apart, then with

rather stiff brush, on
the
smooth
a
a
table, scour
whole
rinse thoroughly in
thoroughly. Afterward
cannot

be laid flat should

be

cold water, leave to di-ain well toward

point,and

the narrowest

w^hile yet

quitedamp iron with a pieceof

muslin
laid over
the dress.
Keep the dress quite
smooth
during the brushing,and brush as evenly as
possiblethe way of the cloth,which is always do\Mi
(toward the feet)when worn.
To
Colored
of

one

bath

Wash

woollens

Colored
may

Woollens.

be well washed

part of waterglassin fiftyparts of

should

be 100

in

solution

water.

The

degreesFahr.
Boil 2 lbs. soap shavingsto a paste with water, and
add 6 to 7 gallonswarm
spirits
water, 1 tablespoonful
of turpentineand 2 tablespoonfuls
of ammonia, and
mix thoroughly. Have
the bath at about 110" Fahr.
and put the goods to soak for 1 hour.
the tub
Have
to

120

108

this.

over

THE

DYEING

Use

CLEANING

AND

hot

moderately

iron

and

press

heavily.
Wash

To
white

Separatethe
add

hot

very

suds,to

quantity of powdered borax, or

dissolved in boilingwater.
Plenty of
liberal

borax

white

gives to

and

texture

look

the

woollens

possess

softness

of
brilliancy

they do not
where
article,
to

the colored woollens.

from

articles make

woollen

white

Woollens.

whiteness

when

the

dirt, is washed

borax
of

choice

very

and

wanted

through

once

and

out

lump

frequently

avoided
it

which

looseness

which
For

new.

shrinkingis to be
best possible,
pass

wringer when

and

For

from

the

very

hot rinse water, then

repeatedlythrough the wringer

it. After
with soft dry drilling
around
a dry sheet
or
several wringingsin the dry cloth the flannel will feel
almost dry, and finish the drying in a warm
placein
For

the shade.
sal-ammoniac.

in the first tub.

water

take
not
as

from
hot

so

the

add

the smaller

goods, and
stick.
end

four

or

push

If the

and

to

the suds

half

pretty full and

dilute with

as

this second

to

strong with
tub

water

soap
table-

one

for every

sal-ammoniac

gallon.
and cleaner articles first,
justa few,
pairsof socks or equal bulk of other
them

stick has

it will aid in

this tub

tub

until it is about

and
first,

say, three

Have

it for the second

of
spoonfulof spirits
Take

add

woollens

2 J ozs.
Preparetwo tubs by dissolving
2 gallonsof nearly boiling-hot
every

in

yellow soap

the colored

dowTi
a

and

about

clean

pieceupon the
articles on and against

flat square

squeezingthe

with

TEXTILE

OF

the sides and

worked,

squeeze

dry

as

sufficiently

When

of the tub.

bottom

109

FABRICS.

and
possible,

as

containingsal-ammoniac.

into the tub

look

in this and

Work

for

spots,which rub out, and wring by a clothes- wringer.

well as
Pull the garments as
possibleinto shape.
Undershirts should be stretched in the width, especially
which
the sleeves,

tend

slim and

to become

long.

hanging on the line,hang them to favor the true

hang
shape; for instance,with jacketsand undershirts,
collar to the rightand tail to the left.
only crosswise,
In

To. economize

the suds
is to

at

time.

replenishthe

adding

fresh

hot

portance
etc.,it is of im-

that

but

important that
reheated.
A good plan

be

from

first tub

suds

the

replenishand

to

ammoniac

or

borax, according to whether

be colored

or

white.

can

be

pouring
washing

suds

Even

further

utilized by

off the

upper

of

Clean

To

Sweep

To
Before
material
retain the

some

the

that is almost

allowing

to

scatter

upon

and
sal-

goods
black

settle and
for fu'st

Carpets.
a

Carpet.

applyingthe broom,
to

second

portion,and using
colored cloths,rugs, etc.

coarse

articles

few

It is also very

kept hot, or

be

soap,

woollens

washing

in
be handled

heat, water,

the

have

carpet

at
to

hand
catch

some

and

dust, as sawdust, tea-leaves,salt,meal, etc.

dipped in soapsuds once a week

it becomes
tough and pliableand will not cut the
carpet. It is best to scatter the slightlydamp
If also the broom

is

110

material
and

but

over

sweep

yard

from

likelyto

be

few

feet take

up

or

so

of carpet at

two

of

comer

one

is not

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

the

dirty. After
bulk

the

of the

room

time,

where

it

sweeping along
sweepings and

portion. \Mien across the room, return

is
the next
on
breadth, and so on until the room
moving as best you can the furniture. The
finished,
tannin of the tea-leaves,oak-sawdust, also the salt,
colors. A pint of ox
tend to brightenmany
gallto
is an excellent thing to apply to spots
a pailof water
scatter

on

fresh

carpet. Work

clear water,

having
To

Qiamois

brush

the sponge

Clean

skin

clean,soft,and
scratch

with

and

sponge

dr}'as possible.

as

Skin.

Chamois

(wash leather) requiresto

free from

varnished

any

surfaces

over

off with

hard

be

that
particles

which

kept
will

it is rubbed.

pieceof woollen
cloth,except that the leather is injuredby hot water
if beyond a heat that the hand can
comfortablybear.
They must also be kept from drjing stiff by having
the last water
quite soapy or by putting a little
glycerinein the water from which the}^are last taken,
until
worked
before quite dr}^ be pulled and
and
quite flexible and soft.
Chamois

To

leather washes

Remove

like anj^ fine

Roofing-Tar

from

the

Hands

and

ments.
Gar-

Roofing-tar(coaltar and asphalt)is not in the least

when
affected b}"washing with soap and alkalies,
even
imtil softfresh. If rubbed, however, with tetrapole

ened, which

is

with cold water.

quicklyaccomplished,it will rinse out

Rubbing up with oil until thoroughly
it will render

incorporatedwith
with
and

with

Ill

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

and

soap

skimmed

Kerosene

water.

milk

and

of this sort

tar

it

soap

movable
re-

softens
out

comes

it,

fairly

well.
To

cleansingof

The

of the colors

Many

are

Wash

Silk.

silk is

very

nice

liable to be altered

operation.
or

removed

possiblea small
piece of the goods should first be operated upon in
of the color may
be determined,
order that the solidity
by washing

in hot

Wherever

suds.

ployed
emgeneraleffect noted of the menstruum
should
for washing. 'No person
ever
wring
thus
crush a pieceof silk when
or
wet, for the creases
if the silk be
remain
made
forever,especially
may
to cleanse silk is to
A good way
thick and hard.

and

the

spread it upon
a

rather

clean, smooth

board

and

dipped in a
Nap is
soap.

stiff bristle brush

brush

with

rather

stiff

not usually
good neutral
present upon silk; stillit is best to brush mostly in
one
direction,as it is easier to see what progress is
being made, to note the generaleffect of the work,
if spots are coming out, and the evenness
to observe
of the work.
The soap should be removed
by brushing
both sides with clean,cold,soft water rather copiously

solution

and

soaking up

sponge
too

of

may

be

wet, rubbed

colors

excess

with

clean soft sponge.

in
dipped finally
on

the

running. Though

alum

face of the
all colors may

water

and,

The
not

silk,to prevent
not

withstand

112

alum,
not

DYEING

THE

still 1

alter most

AXD

of alum

oz.

colors

CLEANING

the

to

gallon of

does

water

noticeably;best trj^it on

small

piecefirst.

Silks

Clean

To

and

Silk Unions

Delicate

Having

Colors.
Peel

and

grate

pintof water
hquid through

to

one

to

potatoes

raw

each

rather

fine

pound

of potatoes. Pass the

coarse

sieve

the starch

cloth

into

Pour

off the

or

vessel and

allow

clear for
is covered

Spread the article upon a

with a sheet,and sponge
the

the dirt is

removed,

cold

to subside.

use.

water.

The

rinse several

then

colors will not

be

fabric until

times

in clear

injured.

successfullytreated in this way.

wringingthe fabric unless through a wringer.

To

Wash

the materials

soap, wash

dissolve

them

Prints
Avoid

Silk Ribbons.

Silk, D.u.iask,Satin,
Rub

table which

be

can

Add

pulp.

with

and

Brocade

Ribbons.

yolk of egg or \"netian

in tepidwater, rinse,and drj'. Next
tragacanth (gum dragon) in equal
a

good gum
parts good white \inegar and soft water.
solution through a cloth.
Dip the fabric
water, very thin,and brush out the bulk

Strain

the

in the gum
of it

as

far

possible.Spread the riblx)n flat and dry quickly.

should be
Iron when
water
quite dry. The gum
for the hair.
about half the consistencyof bandoline
Gmn
dragon swells enormously, and a very little of

as

113

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

night,warm
up in the
same
vinegar. Don't be afraid
of getting
too thin. Keeps well,and if used to moisten
better
it to keep its positionmuch
the hair causes
the hair is done in the ordinary way.
than when
the gum
water, and add the

it suffices. Soak

To
Wash

and

Wash

the

Silk

fumes

remove

of

Stockings.

with

good

the soap.

Then

ordinary way

in the

rinse well to

over

White

over

soap

lather

hold them

burning sulphur,stretchingthe

stockingsso that the fumes get to every part of them.

inside out and draw up on a frame
Turn the stockings
with a glassroller while stillmoist, and
and smooth
dry in the sun.
To

Soak the handkerchiefs

should

snuff

rinsing put
as

neutral

with

as

handkerchiefs
and

then

soaked

be

Have

water.

wash

Handkerchiefs.

Silk Pocket

Wash

night. Any containing

by themselves, and after

over

Wash

others.

the

rather concentrated

be

can

obtained,in

in this
in the

one

warm

at

time

water.

in

lukewarm

solution of soap,

basin;
to

work

soap

They

may

the

them,
wait

together. If yellow or stained they

should be sulphured.Put sulphurin an iron pot, or
melt and dip into the melted sulphurrags put in a
splitstick. The latter can be thrust into the ground
and ignitedand a barrel containingthe suspended
them.
handkerchiefs turned over
Sulphur for several

to

be rinsed all

hours.
8

114

To
Skim

Renovate

milk

gelatinein

AND

CLEANING

Black

Silk

DYEING

THE

and

with

water

scaldinghot

it made

Crape.

very

little

clapped between the hands

gentlytill dry it will look as good as new.
Wash

To

China-Crape

If the fabric is good it may

need

as

be with
shades

various

no

of green

of its

other

and

and

pulled

Scarfs.

be washed

diminution

or

old black

will restore

If

rusty crape.

glue

frequently
if
beauty, even
as

in it.

colors appear

boilingwater and shaved

the scarf quicklyby dij"
soap, let it cool,and wash
ping in the lather,squeezingin the hand and washing

Make

strong lather with

so

Rinse
to the hand.
just warm
water
containinga handful of salt,squeeze as dry
and pin to the line at the extreme
edges
possible,
itself. Dry as quickly
that no part is folded upon

as

possible.

out

in
as

in clean

water

Wash

To

Any
in this

article of black lace

Mix

manner.

water, have

hot

as

two

the hand

around

portions of

be

can

J pint beef
as

the veil into the mixture

shut

Lace

Black

the

hand

with

Veils.
washed
successfully
gallwith J pint hot
will bear.

the hand

the veil

and

Thrust
and

open

repeatedly. Rinse

fresh water, the

last

one

very

in

blue

bluing. After drying,dampen with very wTak

Clap it
glue water, bandoline, or gelatinewater.
and
the hands; open
between
pin the edge very
nicelyto the line. ^Mien dry iron on the WTong side

with

over

linen

ironing-sheet.

116

of

DYEING

THE

wire

good

for

not

with

and

cupful of

applying.

gall.

ox

wet, and

too

Wash

To
in

Wash
and

vinegar, or

three

silk

For

Make

dry

hot,

and

and

smooth

baths

the

rub

Taffeta.

Black

stiffen with

containing Venetian
Arabic

gum

fabric with

between

Wring

beer.

Remove

iron.

an

Rinse

It is also very

put J pint of the reviver in J gallon

silk not

the

sponge

the leather before

from
faded

of water

cork.

black color of leather.

restoringthe

much

CLEANING

to the

attached

and

all grease

AND

cloths and

water
sponge

iron

on

soap.

and

little

dipped
the

in

wrong

side.

Soak

one

To

Wash

hour

in

White

Taffeta,

water.

warm

Make

2-gallon

(or any
containing2 ozs. Venetian
soap
Rinse,
good soap) and a double handful of bran.
sulphur,and stiffen by passingthrough a very thin
solution of gum
Arabic or gum
dragon colored slightly
blue with Saxony blue, or any good bluing,mangle
brush the surface
and afterward
between
two cloths,
lightly. Venetian soap presumably contains some
solution

Venice

turpentine.
Preparation of Soap
150

oz.

soap,

150

oz.

ox

16

oz.

gall,
honey,

16

oz.

white

25

oz.

Venice

for

Washing

sugar,

turpentine.

Silk.

all

Melt
a

damp

for

and
together,
The

cloth.

pour

soap

117

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

into

lined with

mould
hard

will become

and

ready

in 24 hours.

use

Ox

Gall.

of beef cattle,
gall-bladder
from
be obtained
and may
slaughter-houses.It is
be procured
best when
fresh,but several gallsmay
convenient or ordered sent to the house, and
when
be emptied out and
the contents
treated,to
may
One pint ox galland 2 ozs. of powdered
preserve them.
of the

This is the contents

alum

Let

salt.

common

to which
together,
and
the liquorsettle,

boiled

are

add

ozs.

add

few

of lemon.
Pour off into a bottle
drops essence
cork tightly;or
Stir 45 parts ox gall with equal quantity of

and

"

water, and

add

hour, and

when

add

to

cold

Stir the mixture

alum.

ozs.

filtrate is

filter;the

of strongest

this | of its bulk

hot

for J

colorless;

alcohol,let

The
days, and pour off the clear for use.
of alum, etc.,remaining are of no value; or
crystals
Empty the gallinto a bottle,put in a handful of
salt,a teacupfulof gall to 5 gallons of water will
prevent colored articles from fading.

stand

"

A
22

Scouring Liquid.

gals,hot water, in

15 lbs. white

10 lbs. extract

vessel mix

dissolve

Marseilles soap,

10 lbs. carbonate

In another

which

15

of

potash,

of Panama.

qts. ox

gallor sheep gall,

lis

DYEING

THE

pts. ammonia.

Take

of the

gallmixtm'e
Heat, let cool,and
Decant

and

CLEAMXG

AND

add

and
add

of the soap

mixture

aromatic

some

and

"

essence.

gallons90-per-centalcohol.

filter.
Clean

To

SUks.

Washing silks in the wa}^ that linen is washed spoils

it is done, and therehow
fore
them, no matter
carefully
should never
be done unless absolutely
necessar}^
It is far better to lay them
flat surface and
on
a
them
with soapy
and
rub with
water
dry
sponge
cloths

and

of such

iron

on

the

shape that
side,it may

wrong

side.

If the article is

it is inconvenient

to

iron the

right side with

thin paper laid over
to prevent glazing. If faded,
re\4ver of colors
Tsith alcohol,or any
over
sponge
before pressingwith the iron.
Bullock's gallis a imiversal reviver of colors and
of the best detergents. ^Miere it is deemed
best
one
to wash the silk pass it through and through the soap
soiled places and
liquor,working the more
spots
wrong

with

should

squeeze

be

little free
to

dry.

be

done

of the

hand.

the

on

For

white

silk there

employed a white soap containingvery

alkah, well rinsed,and stretched with pins

\Miite

m.ay

be

bleached

2V its bulk of muriatic

dark-colored

silk,best

no

acid.
soap,

alcohol

For
but

black

sponge

taining
con-

and
with

on
equal parts, and use warm
both sides of the silk. Remove
the gallthoroughly
soft water.
by sponging with clear,warm,
Lastly,
if the silk needs to be stiffened,
with glue
sponge over

ox

gaU

and

hot water

use

with

the

gelatinewater on
do it evenly, and

or

to

be

must

Usually

water.

lime

or

hard

termed

from

article to
grease

and

with

due

chosen

contains
mineral

other

glue

water

iron

warm

careful

is termed

soft

less of

or

more

on

matters, and

are

water.

To
The

The

cistern water

or

well waters

magnesia and

with

Smooth

Rain

side.

the wrong

side, being

wrong

dry quickly.

thin.

very

119

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

Bleach
be

Silk.

White

bleached

dirt,and
regard

be

must

the

to the

first cleansed
of

process

cleansing
the article,

of

nature

cleansingagent thoroughly removed

by
etc. Use peroxideof hydrogen,one
sponging,rinsing,
out
part of peroxideto four parts of water with or withsoda lye. The
silks are
of ammonia
traces
or
simply laid in the liquidto steep as long as may be
erates
Heat
decomposes the liquid,but accelnecessary.
heat above 90" Fahr.
the bleaching; but never
is sufficient. The bleachinggoes
Setting in the sun
and

on

all the

for

time

some

after the article is taken

therefore

hurry the
tically
drying. White articles of wool are bleached by idenWhen
the goods have laid
the same
process.
long enough in the bath, and also lain as long as
after taking out of the bath, rinse
deemed
necessary
bath,

and

yet moist;

in soft water

To

Remove
Rub

as

up

to break

and

the

not

dry.

Tar-, Grease-, and

the tar

do

of the

out

with

grainof

Oil-Stains

fresh oil.
the

Don't

silk;best

use

from

rub
a

so

Silk.
hard

brush with

120

the

DYEING

THE

silk drawn

CLEANING

AXD

tight over

bottle.

Old

oil- and

Linseed
grease-stains
maj^ well be treated as for tar.
the fabric so the spot needs
oil stains,if old,3'ellow

bleaching. ^Mien you have got the spots prepared,

remove
bj' brushing vrith a tooth-brush dipped in a
For very small spots lay the silk
solvent for grease.
the end of a concave-bottomed
over
bottle,the spot
the high edges with clean
in the center, and
wet
solvent
solvent

work

and

drip through

fino^erend

one

to

far

By

articles made
cotton.
same

White
head.

They

insoluble
therefore

in

sohd

Cotton
of

are

matter

the

bit with
work

to

ever}^

Goods.

garments

in the fomi

paper

vegetable substance
plants,trees, grass,
as

White

use

to have

as

prevent spreading in

larger part
for

so

Work

centre.
anv

to

Treat

the

the

cause

through. Endeavor
possible.
way
To

the centre

toward

of cloth

and
are

other

of white

is also to be classed under

the

both

nearly pure cellulose,a

composing a large part t)f all

etc.

alkalies.

Cellulose ma}^
Cotton

be considered

goods, uncolored,

heat up to the

boilingpoint with ver}^ alkaline solutions without sensibly

affectingtheir strengthor wearing qualities.]^Iost
of grease
and
dirt 3neld to such
forms
treatment
and come
out in the boil. It is always well in the
holds
The cover
boihng to have the boiler covered.
the steam
almost to the exclusion of the atmosphere.
Cotton
projectingabove the surface of the boil is
oxidation unless a
very apt to acquire a stain from

ma}^

l^etreated at any

121

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

usuallygray in
brownish.
They

provided. These stains are

brown
or
color,though sometimes
are
probablyoxidation productssame
is

cover

of

appearance

rusty boilers

Either

or

fruit

are

The

metallic

salts

juices(pectous matters).

is better
of these

stains and

is very

the weathered

fence-rail.

from

permanent, and
than a pound of

one

chances

house, or

probably

stains

brownish
from

old wood

an

as

To

cure.

to soften

of prevention

ounce

an

and

remove

remove

as

of dirtymatter, that might boil in,''

possible
the white cotton goods should be soaked over
night,
rinsed before going to the boil and
out and
wrung
charges
speciallyall stains of vegetablenature, blood, dismuch

"

as

in cold or hot water

body, removed
free of alkalies before the boilingis proceeded with.
Also the very soiled and stained thingsshould have
Stains remainingafter
a separate boil by themselves.
boilingrequireusuallyto be bleached. Very much
the

from

of the tendered
laundries

cotton

is from

get from washer-women

we

ill-advised

an

use

of
,

and

bleaching

liquorsand compounds.
The
have

boilingliquorfrom
been

needed

taken

to be

so

may

which

be used

white,that

have

the cleanest

again for
been

clothes

articles not

sorted out from

of turpentine,
kerosene,
tablespoonful
to be added
other thingsare recommended
and some
along with soap and alkali in the boilingof white
the first lot. A

clothes.

''sudsingwater" is a matter of importance.

should be clear,soft water, and warmed
so
as not
chill the clothes and
cause
loosened-upmatters

The
It
to

122

to

DYEING

THE

Ammonia

''set."

great benefit.
'^ith

poleof

at the end

The

AND

CLEANING

in the

goods

convenient

to facilitate

water,
Hfted

are

size and

gettinga

or

borax,

is

the

boiler

from

shape,often

grasp

forked

the cloths

upon

and sort of

winding them up so as to express as much

of the ''boil''sls possible
and also to expose as httle
and transferred
with a dexterous
to the air as
possible,
twist into (not on top of) the sudsing bath.
he in the sudsing bath
for some
time
They may
ill results,or until the next
boilerful
without
any
has been got going. They may
be soused up and
now
into the rinsingwater, which
and "^Tung
down
out
The writer
be the bluing water.
not
or
may
may,
is impossiblein rinsing
considers that too great care
and bluing cotton
goods.
is found in many
Yellow cistern water
places.This
in the cistern
and the water
is ver}' objectionable,
should

be

provided

thrown
with

cistern at the

out

and

charcoal

side and

the

cistern

which
filter,

above

the

main

cleaned
is

and
small

and
cistern^

connectingwith it by a rather largeconduit protected

The charcoal should be as free from dust
by a screen.
as
possible.A layerof gravelis laid over the screen
to the conduit and the charcoal placedin the filtering
cistern as evenly as possibleto " to f its capacity.
is so placed that the water
first
A board
stone
or
the charcoal.
strikes it and is spread over
from

AMiere
cannot

be

cleared
purposes.

any

thrown

cause

away,

making
perfectly,

the

water

it may
it

even

be

in the

cistern

deodorized
fit for

and

drinking

124

DYEIXG

THE

CLEAXlXG

AND

selected

having a reddish shade of blue,the result

is more
to restore
the goods to a white conperfectly
dition.
be very carefully
dissolved and
Bluing must
thoroughlymixed with the bluing water, and the
well opened out and
the bluing-tub
goods put m
crowded

never

with

materials

to

be

blued.

After

bluing they should be wrimg so dry as not to drain

when hung, and the dr3dngdone as quicklyas possible
in the open

air.

To

Fold

Fold
then
the

the

Clothes

from

fine articles and

the

roll them

fold the rest,turning them

colored

be shaken

things are very apt

things may

to

To

ironingof

be

the

and

mildew,

mildew

Iron

in

rightside

articles separate from

and table linen should

The

Line.

the

sheets

rest;

the

Lay

out.

folded.

and

towel:

Starched
other

if left to lie too

starched
un-

long.

Clothes.

ever}'-week

wash

ma}'

be

said

simple to need an}^ elucidation,

and that plentyof good hot "flats'* and elbow grease
the prime requisites.
are
However, in ironinga shirt,
first do the back, then the sleeves,
then the collar
and bosom, and finall}^
the front. Iron calicoes generally
the right side,as the}^keep clean for a
on
longertime. In ironinga frock,fii*stdo the waist,
to

then

matter

too

the sleeves and

then

the skirt.

Keep

the skirt

rolled while

chair

for the

iron-

ironingthe other parts, and set a

sleeves while ironingthe skirt,unless an

TEXTILE

OP

ing-boardis
moderate

iron,or
lace

iron

be

side,while quitedamp,

the wrong

on

Silk should

used.

125

FABRICS.

the

and

with

colors will "steam

needlework

and

ironed,if

and

put

them

away

as

the

back

and

draw

it around

soon

as

on

the

dry. Damp
the

alb

at
a

very

out."

ways
Alside

wrong

velvet

iron set upon

on

end,

it straight.
holdins:
lj3
k3v;ic*i^i
lu

Scorched
It often

ironing,and

happens
rendered

that

Linen.

things get scorched

thereby

very

in the

unsightly,if

not

permanently injured. To restore scorched linen is a

and where
the scorch acof great difficulty,
matter
tually
the
consumes
thread, is hopeless. Slight
scorches often disappearin subsequent washings,but
this m.ay be hastened and greatlyaided by applying
the followingcomposition:
Beat two
large onions to a pulp in a mortar, and
fuller's
express the juice;add to this 2 ozs. pulverized
earth, or any clean dry clay,J oz. scraped soap, and
and J pintof strong vinegar.
1 oz. dry hen's droppings,
stir occasionally
Boil this mass
time and
for some
until it is quite thick.
Spread this thicklyover the
entire size of the scorch and let lie for twenty-four
but
hours.
With
light scorching this is sufficient,
Wash
is necessary.
well
if bad another application
is usually effected.
each time and a complete cure
Keep the balance of the compound where it will not
dry out, in a jellytumbler with a rubber or similar
receptacle.

126

THE

DYEING

To
Never

to

try

bluing does
the

Work

AND

Bleach

Yellow
linen

bleach
restore

not

CLEANING

Linen.

before

it, it

washing;
be

must

if the

bleached.

linen well in water

clear
containingsome
solution of bleaching-powder,and
afterward
rinse
well in clear water.
Avoid usingtoo strong bleachingliquid. Use as little as may be. A slightsouringin
water
containingacid after being in the bleach and
returningto the bleach bath will thoroughly whiten
the goods without
further addition of bleaching-powder.
Rinse

well when

To
Remove
some
a

take

of
out

ammonia.

The

To

and

in Linen

Goods.

by boilingin water, then unrave

and filling
from both warp
and put into
fuchsine in aniline. Both become
dyed,
and put, while damp, into
and wash

threads

Make

Cotton

Detect
the size

solution

but

done.

in

cotton

Clean
a

threads

Lace, either

boiler

clear soft water

will lose their color.

Silk

or

Thread.

very

strong lather of white soap

and

add

drops of strong
ammonia.
bottle a pieceof linen
Sew around
a black
or
muslin; tack one end of the lace to the covering,
and then wind the lace around
the bottle;wind from
the top downward, having the edge of the lace down
in such manner
to keep covering the edge; secure
as
the end finally
with needle and thread.
Fill the bottle
with

water

kettle and

at

same

secure

temperature
the

bottle

few

as

the lather in the

upright in

the kettle

by

stringstied

Boil it for

bottle.
the

lace,and

and

rinse with

When

dry

Instead

of

and

boiling,the

lace

and

and

ribbon

paper,

set in the suds

the

remove

water

warm

it round

folds between

long

clean

very

the

of the

neck

hour, keeping the liquidabove

an

when

wind

around

ears, and

to the

127

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

dry in the sun.

block, or lay in

press in
on

gentlyrubbed

it stand

bottle,drain,

the
up

in the

thus

book.

bottle
and

be

may

down

with

changing
the lather dailyfor several days, and without
rinsing
covered with a tight
and pin on a largepillow,
remove
pillow-case.Every scallopmust have a separate pin
several pins
of small size,and if very large scallops,
be pinned down
to each; the plain edge must
too,
to keep it straight.AMien
quitedry take it up, but
do not starch,iron, or press it. Lay in long folds
the

hand.

in

box.

Let

sun,

MISCELLANEOUS.
Chinamen's

Starch.

rather thick paste is made

of

raw

by beatingup
starch,and

starch,usuallycorn

of rice flour with

about

one

ful
hand-

teacupful

quart of water, making

liquidof cream-like consistency. A portionof this,

by experience,is added to a
previouslydetermined
ously
quantity of boilingwater while the latter is vigorstirred with
to be starched

moist
The

from

are

the

piecesare

clean stick.
well smeared

wringing and
laid aside for

With

this the articles

while the linen is yet

the

starch

few minutes

quite hot.
and

then

12S

THE

DYEING

CLEANING

AXD

between
hands
until the
the
vigorously nibbed
starch is evenly distributed in the fabric. The linen
When
is then usuallydried by artificial heat.
reach^
for ironing the starched
portions are damped b}'
starch water, to which
of a cloth dipped in raw
means
about
has been added
" oz. to the quart of blood
The
albumen.
proportionof starch in the water is
the irons are
In ironing,
to fifty
one
parts of water.
cooled
made
but are
suj^erficially
very hot at first,
and
cleaned
just before using by a plunge for a
is
The irons are what
into a pailof water.
moment
their posterior
edge
commonly called polishing-irons;
is the ordinar}'
instead
of angular as
is rounded
of the fine gloss
Much
sad-iron."
^noothing-ironor
is accomshirts laundered
observed
plished
on
by Oiinamen
by skilful manipulation of this rounded edge
^^

over

the

to
work, a manipulationim|X)ssible

in words.
accustomed

to

it.

It not

^oesy, but imparts an

starched

laborious

It is most

essy

fabric otherwise

Fonniila
One

Uuing

lb.

com

q.s. Make

for those

not

only renders the surface

to the hea^dly
flexibility

not

obtainable.

for Starch.

starch, 37J
into boiled

Starch

work

describe

ozs.

water
lx)iling

and

starch in the usual way.

Gloss.

Arabic, S
~?; loaf sugar, 2 J parts; white
cmd
soap, i part; syrupy waterglass,1 part; egg album^i, 4 parts; warm
water, 20 pts. The first three
to be boiled together,the waterglass
are
ingredients
Gum

OF

is

added, and

when

put in and

the

about

to

soon

as

oz.

TEXTILE

cooled

whole

well

the above

well if corked

the

140"

to

stirred

formula

the boiled starch

as

129

FABRICS.

albumen

is

together. Add

for boiled

is finished.

starch

This

tight and kept cool. A good

by putting2 ozs. fine white gum

keeps
starch

Arabic
glossis made
into a pintor more
of water and let it stand covered
all night. Pour off carefully
next day from the dregs
and bottle it for use and keep cool and well corked.
A teaspoonfulof this gum
to a pint of starch
water
made
in the usual way
imparts to white or printed
lawns
look of newness
which
a
nothing else can
to them
after being once
washed.
restore
Perfumed
Melt
clean

2J lbs.
fire,and

Gloss
best

very

when

Tablets.

parafhne wax
from

removed

over

the

drops oil of citronella. Have some

level,and
pans of brighttin,set them
about fV ii^ch in depth of the melted
100

When

wax.

cooled

out

stamp

slow

fire stir in
tins

new

or

pour

into each

and

perfumed

about

the

size of

peppermint lozenges,either square or round; add

two of these cakes to one
pintof starch and they will
the polishing-iron
to impart the finest possible
cause
finish to muslin or linen besides perfuming them.
To

Treat

Colored

Cottons, Colored

Muslins, Pique',

etc.

Prepare
white
a

soap.
time.
As
9

suds

Wash

the dress

soon

as

the

soft water

with

good

one

or

other

and

articles

suds appears

much

good
one

at

soiled

130

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

but
change for fresh suds. Have the water warm,
not hot, and squeeze
(not wring) the articles out of
When
oughly
thorbath before putting into another.
one
clean,rinse in pure cold water and squeeze
the water thoroughlyout and hang in a shady place
best printsfade in sunshine if wet and
to dry. The
best dry
if hung out too wet ; in wet weather
run
may
by the fire. Expedition,not allowing the goods to
repose

in soiled soapy

Cotton

and

in which

the water
them

going, and

what

it

they

as

suspended in
worked; therefore keep

grime

any

soon

are
as

in

Washing

is

suds

one

has loosened

clean

bath.

be boiled

ever

up

Clothes.

Colored

colored articles should

No

that

will,get immediately to
Hints

success.

ing
the property of attach-

articles have

Hnen

themselves

to

water, is the secret of

or

scalded,

They should be
lowed
ironed immediatelythey are dry enough, and not alto lie over
night. They should not be sprinkled,
should the iron be very hot.
nor
Many colors change
allowed

nor

when

hot

iron

heat

as

In

washing

essential
are

is put

should,when

be

them

preserve

with

Muslins.

colored

muslins

there

be

observed

as

littledamp

the color.

Colored

points to

not

when
them, especially

Wash

are

whereby

many

the

veiy

colors

injury. In the first place they

night. They
soaped or soaked over
ready for washing, if not very dirty,

preserved from

should

freeze.

over

to smooth

possibleto
To

to

wet

Endeavor

damp.
and

while

132

clean

long time.

with

smooth

To

smooth

Colored

Wash

possibleand

as

bottle.

hot-water

Dresses.

gallonof

da}'before,and

do this the

Best

Dr}^ as

1 lb. of best rice in 1

BoO

CLEANT:NG

AND

DYEING

THE

water

for 3 hom*s.

it up

warm

the next

morning, first pouringofifsufficient in wliich to starch

Wash
the dress in the remainder, using
the dr^ss.
rinse it in. clear

and

rice for soap,

the

water.

poured off
and hang to dry. Iron when
dry enough; if any
spots get too dry damp with a wet cloth while ironing.
Wring

This

it well and

must

scorches

starch

be rather
not

starch

cold

cool.

No

Idc allowed

in the rice water

very

soap

easilyand the
must
be used, and

to Ue

but

damp,

be

iron must
the dress

quickl}'
got

through the whole process. This recipewill be found

equallygood for printedmuslins and alpaca dresses.
To

Wash

Gingham

Articles.

brought to him a gingham waist,

soiled,and smeared also with black axlevery much
in
This was
old.
completely removed
grease, very
hand washbowl
in an ordinar^^
2 quarts of cold water
in a verj^ expeditious
with 1 oz. of tetraix)le
manner.
in the least faded, and was
The color did not appear
The

of

writer

check

had

pattern and

hght bluish

slate color.

The

simpl}^mixed with the water and the

waist thrust in and squeezed by putting the hands
No further
flat upon it and squeezingup and down.

tetrapolewas

treatment

was

of fresh water.

necessar}^

except

to

rinse in 2 quarts

This article is soap dissolved in carbon

OF

and
tetrachloride,
main

Co., whose

be

may

offices

133

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

Hudson

117

at

are

the Elberfeld

from

bought

St.,New

City and at 133 East Kinzie St.,Chicago,111.,

cities of this country they have
and in the principal
branches whose street and number
are
givenelsewhere.
York

To

Stains

Remove

from

Acids

from

Clothing.

Nitric acid

utterlydestroysthe color,and
employed to restore it on woollen

be

can

If the

spot is small

be touched

may

up

and

with

upon
water

valuable

colors with

enough previouslyadded either to the

cloth to cause
ready penetration.This
in

skilful

so

who

one

known

manner

that

acid has
ammonia

to

as

where

knows

household
On

to

be noticed

look

fallen upon
at

once

to

means

and

silk.

it
article,
justalcohol
pigment or
be clone

can

only by

for it.
the

no

the

it is

When

clothing,
apply

neutralize

the

acid.

be freelyused
can
clothingthis ammonia
with no fear of damage. Where
is not
the ammonia
readilyobtainable,sal-soda,or saleratus,
baking soda,
or

most

acids

alkali should

weak

any

should
as

be

may

cloth,their

at

once

be.

If

maximum

be tried at
treated

with

they have

once

effect has

been

once.

water

Strong
as

dried upon

piously
co-

the

produced,and
Alkalies intensify
silk by nitric acid.

of no use.
are
preventivemeasures
the yellowproduced upon wool and
The cloth is not made
noticeablytender except with
strong nitric acid and its action prolonged or
very
aided by heat.
The
yellow stain of nitric acid on
white woollen, silk,and the skin is permanent.
It
of

course

wears

off from

the hands.

134

To

THE

DYEING

Stains

Remove

CLEANING

AND

from

Sulphuric Acid

ments.
Gar-

upon

Concentrated

sulphuricacid is very destructive to

fabrics.
Spilledupon cotton or linen they blacken
solution is formed, and it makes
at once, a syrupy
a
and
silk resist,in some
mess
generally. Woollen
and

measure,

and

once

fabric may
Some

if the garment

be got to water

can

copiously rinsed off, destruction

be prevented.

few

colors

sulphuricacid, but

fast to

are

all but

of

at

the

the strongest

the

majority of colors change

either at once, or after some
time, or upon drying.
All
colors may
be
completely restored where
acid if taken at once, even
if the
changed by sulphuric
acid

prett}^strong

was

or

hot.

Household

ammonia

appliedto the stain,using due care not to

turn
cotton
mess
up adjacent parts. ^lany reds on
with even
blue if touched
very dilute sulphuricacid,
restored perfectlyif treated with an
but are
alkah,
after
even
or
ammonia, saleratus,
sal-soda,
soap, even
time.
Bear in mind
some
always that if sulphuric
acid dries upon
material or linen,the fabric
cotton
is destroj^ed,
how dilute the sulphuric
and no matter
acid,damage will inevitablyresult if allowed to dry
the goods. Therefore,after ever
so
thorough
upon
to neutralize
a
rinsingoff,it is a prudent measure
"\Aliere it is aj"
any trace of this acid b}^ammonia.
prehended that the direct applicationof ammonia
to the goods may
affect the texture
or
color,a cloth

should

can

be

be wrung

out

of ammonia

and

laid

on

or

near

the

OF

spot

to be

135

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

and
neutralized,

the fumes

of ammonia

will

speedilyaccomplish the desired effect. Stains of

white
sulphuric acid do not occur
fabrics,
upon
fabrics colored by sour
dyes,pure indigoshades,etc.
Logwood turns red, and vegetablecolors generally
phuric
are
seriouslyaffected. A black spotted red by sulacid, if not fully restored by neutralizing,
be restored
by touching it up with logwood
may
decoction and rubbing over
flatiron. Have
the
a hot
decoction fairly
strong ; add a littletannin substance
too if logwood seems
not quitethe thing after a trial.
of Various

Effect

Garments
upon Colored
Stains from
Same.

Treat

to

Oxalic

Acids

acid is

and

dry substance,and not liable to be

It dissolves
spilledupon things to their detriment.
in about nine times its weight of cold water
and its
In dilute solution it does
own
weight of boilingwater.
affect colors very
not
ciuicklyor energetically
even
dried upon
when
if the goods were
them, especially
mordanted
stains from
or
sour-dyed. The
it, if
occur,

any

fumes.

treated

are

colors from
or

with

buff color is

Iron

all the

by

not

dilute

spotted by

ammonia

or

oxalic

acid,and

organic substances,whether

copperas

or

bluestone.

its

dened
sad-

If the spots

old

they may not restore with ammonia, and will

The most
treatment.
requireespecial
common
thing
is,with saddened
colors,that the iron has rusted,
are

which
the

treat

shade

muriatic

as

of
acid

the

any
rest

rust

-spot; if darker

of the

cautiously,and

than

cloth, touch
remove

the

with

acid

as

136

DYEING

THE

soon

as

and

desired

done

such

thing as

Apply

logwood, sumac,
best to produce

seems

Muriatic

result.

its work.

of

decoction

weak

fustic,archil,or
the

it has

possibleafter

ammonia

CLEANING

AND

acid

and

acetic

acid

do not produce very permanent effects.

beingvolatile,
The muriatic acid,when
getically
strong, will act quite enerand should be removed"
by rinsingas soon

possible. None
carbonizingeffect

of these

as

to

should

be neutralized.

stains

from

have

marked

vegetable fibres,but

upon

tender

muslins

make

acids

extent

some

They

acid

Lactic

fruits,etc.

therefore

and

useful in

are

removing

is used

as

is the acid of sour

and
assistant,
buttermilk,beet root, etc.
with sour
Fruit stains,
by repeatedtreatment
whey, or dilute water-white
buttermilk,sour
bleach out.
acid,and layingin the sun, soon
Alkalies

of Acids

and

The

effect of

acids

upon

Prussian

(except indigo and

upon

Various

milk,

mordant

Effect

will

milk,
lactic

Colors.

blacks, purples,blues
blue), and

upon

all

produced by vegetable and

astringentsubstances, iron salts,archil,etc., is to
red.
turn them
more
pale,
They render the }'ellows
those

of

shades

color

except annatto, which

is not

mordant
where

garment from
the

color

dye

in

or

occurs

acid
to

or

touch

and by
solution,

the spot.

orange.

clirome

except b}^ nitric acid, and

removed

spot

any

becomes

upon

alkali it is
up

the

chrome

mordanted

possibleto

restore

the

proper

spot with

the hot h'on to fix it fast upon

Alkalies turn

scarlets violet,and

some

generally.
A spot producedby

unknown

treated both by ammonia

to other

in this work

knowledge

some

also

should

means

of the

skill to

some

alkali to

brown, violet,or

blue

remove

be

be

the

enabled

to

acid spot from

solution of tin

or

producedwith

color like brown

dyeing

judge how

an

cloth,try

of

art

apphed and thus

accordingly.

to restore

effect

and

color was
original
modify the means
After using an

copperas

greens

acetic acid before ceeding

proto restore it. To succeed well

means

and

is necessary

some

goods yellow,and give a nasty

woollen

upon

137

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

galls.Indigoextract will restore a faded blue woollen

Red or
the same.
cotton garment, or spots upon
or
scarlet may
be restored by cochineal and muriate
of tin.

thing
a

in

proper

choice

treatingspots upon

always

care

and

The

of reagents is the

main

colored fabrics.

Have

applyingthem,

in

and

perseverance failure to restore

the

Use

again is

same

ammonia

patience

color

or

to

produce
re-

rare.

obtainable

wherever

with

as

an

and
alkali,

Neither of
to other acids.
preference
likelyto do damage, and in a majority of

acetic acid in
these

are

cases

are

all that

chloroform, and
chloroform

Many
presence

of

an

often

will restore

of

acids
an

the
some

and

acid,and

alkali. Litmus

them

with

yellow still remains,

shade.
original

where

vegetableand

sensitive to

Follow

is necessary.
a

aniline colors

alkalies.

Archil

purplishblue

is another

so

are

very

is red

in

in presence

sensitive

as

to be

138

employed as
is acid

or

THE

DYEING

reagent

alkaline.

AND

to

CLEANING

determine

Methyl

whether
is

orange

fluid

aniline color

an

sensitiveness.

of extreme

degree
Vegetablejuiceshave this property in some
that they are
and it is usuallythe case
paler when
in the presence

of

textiles it is

On

fact that

alkali to stains from

stains

very

if alkaline.

acid than

an

by adding
fruit

vegetableor

soap

or

juicesor

permanent color is fixed upon

the

an

grass

goods.

juicescontain pectous matters

that if got upon
cloth,handkerchiefs,napkins, etc.,
allowed to shine upon them, they become
and the sun
it follows
very firmlyfixed upon the cloth. Therefore
that as much
should be
as
possibleof such matters
firstremoved
by pure water, either hot or cold,before
^"getable and

fruit

reagent or sunlighthas

any

Stains upon

white

to the water

in

of muriatic

acid added

To

Colored

chance

napkins of
which they are

to act

upon

this character
soaked

with

an

them.
have

may
or

ounce

two

gratifyingresults.
Coffee and chocolate stains,if they do not wash
out,
need to be sulphured. Burn
a small
pieceof sulphur
it with a paper cone, and apply the
on
a plate. Cover
A
damp stained place to the opening of the cone.
''Portland
match
will sulphur a small stain,
Star"
if lightedand held carefully
under the moist stain.
Prepare

Silks for

If the silk to be washed

from

the waist

and

rip the seams

plaits,
etc., occur,

not

most

the

is a

Washing

let them

skirt.
out

if

the
If

Dyeing.
the band

dress,remove

liningfrom

of the

and

bottom.

Do

gathers, tucks,

going to

be made

140

(sal-soda)has

good

some

been

Boil

necessary.

is

in

again

fresh

sufficient

the

garment

CLEANING

AND

added, so long as

soap,

stirred with
the

DYEING

THE

bath

suds

to

containing
when
briskly

in clear water

for

Remember

ready

dyeing.
goods will

of the

subsequent dyeing, and

the

be

to

seems

fingers. Rinse

the present shade

any

it

that

the tone

vary

color

and

should

of

now

be level.
To
Make

solution

Work

Baume.

the

Make

Rinse.

Black

Dye

of

decoction

chip fustic
goods. Boil J hour;
and

1 per

of the

If

of

with

Decoctions

4"

of

of

cent

the

wood

The

water, and this

logwood
be used

may

is

different

The

used for fresh

is

saving

extract

in

place
less

desired,use

is reboiled in the

water

cold.

boil the

to

dyewoods
required,1

prepared in the clyehouseas they are

of the chipped wood
to 1 gallonof water,
1 hour.

hour

sufficient in which
10 per

strength

SJ lbs. chip logwood

bluish black

iron

this solution

fustic extract

cent

chips.

fustic.

nitrate

goods in

1 lb.

and

2 lbs. of SUk.

on

are

lb.

boiled

for

bulk

of

same

chipsindefinitely.
Groimd
fustic,

nearly 25 per cent.

often
barwood
or
are
ground logwood, camwood,
added
to the dye bath
along with the goods, the
boiled

whole

or

argol.

the

way

goods.

hour

an

mixture

Alum

the shade.
other

for

may

Camwood
than

of
be

and

copperas,

added
and

saddened

peras,
cop-

bluestone, and

if needed

barwood

with

are

boilingtheir powders

to

redden

used
direct

in

no

with

To
No.

^Two

1.

"

of

directed: Grind

and

cochineal

mixture

the

If

of pure

ozs.

to the

hot

dye
Hquor

Dye the silk in this

it gains in depth of color,then work in
as long as
after lifting
for 15 minutes
and discoloring
bath
same
the bath with white vinegar or acetic acid.

No.

2.

the

goods, and

work

shorten

the

frequently.To
lifted and

the

Rinse

dry. Dye

and

To

Steep for
squeeze

decoction

cochineal,with
the

in the

Dye

of
or

color is

To

to

the
130"
bath

same

ground
cochineal,

Scarlet
in acetate

dry, then wash

and 8J ozs. of

and

time

hours,stirring
goods may be
or

more.

even

Fahr.

at 130"

fine and

mixed

water.

2 hours

3J lbs. bran

bran;

of

teacup hot

for 6 to 8

reheated

bath

after the addition

with

in sufficient hot water

Dissolve 2 lbs. alum

"

to handle

hot

as

stir thoroughly.

bath, and
the

silk,cleaned

(freeof iron),add

alum

Color.

Rose-Red

lbs. of

drachm

together1

for

Dye

141

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

2 lbs. of Silk.

of alumina

at 6"

Baume,
in hot water
containing
powdered chalk. Dye in

3} lbs. Brazilwood
without

the

addition

brighterwhen
Dye

Violet

and

bran

8|

ozs.

of 1 lb. of

is added.

Color.

sulphuricacid 8f ozs. blue vitriol,

of tartar.
8f ozs. common
salt,and 4J ozs. cream
Boil for 40 minutes, squeeze out, dry,and then cleanse
by working thoroughly in water containing1 lb. bran
chalk.
and 8 ozs.
Dye just below the boiling-point
Boil with

3i

ozs.

142

DYEING

THE

for

hour

"me

Diadder

and

To

out

bath

dye

Crimson

about

added

beoi

2 lbs. of Silk.

solution of 1 to

sulphate (blue vitriol)for

and

of the solution

of 6" Baume

cleanse

in

If

hour.

mixture

OBS.

rinse in water

and

for 1 hour

1 lb. of wheat

and

of cochineal

of

ozs.

Squeeze
of

chalk,and water made up pretty thin. Eh-e in

of 3J lbs. Brazilwood
decoction
but not boiling,
13

lbs.

containing6

of alumina

solution of acetate

has

to which

fresh

} lb. bran.

Dje

Steep in
copp^

in

CX"ANING

AXD

bran,
hot,

and

Dye

bran.

containing2

to 3

ozs.

sal-ammoniac.

To

Drab

Dye

ozs.

8j

ozs.

8J

ozs.

sulphuricacid,
blue vitriol,
table salt,

4J

ozs.

white

Dye at 130".
fustic; for deep

To

gray?

Dye

2 lbs. of Silk.

SJ

in cold solution

Mordant

greeni^

Gray

or

For

hour; squeeze, and rinse.

decoction

of

gall nuts;
quercitronbark.

for

yellowishgray,
decoction

gray,

of

decoction

Red

tartar.

Color

of

2 lbs. of Silk Cleansed

as

Directed.
Mordant

alumina, strengthof
is

risky to wring hke

therefore

in

for IJ hours

squeeze

as

solution of acetate

5" Baume
a

washerwoman

dry

as

hydrometer.
any

possibleand

As

of
it

old fabric,
cleanse

in

OF

TEXTILE

143

FABRICS.

containingwheat bran and powdered chalk,

chalk.
Boil up 6J lbs. madder
1 quart bran, 8 ozs.
and J lb. bran
and 8| ozs.
and dye therein
sumac
2h hours.
Brighten by boiling2 hours with 3J ozs.
castile soap, 1 lb. bran, 2 ozs. muriate
of tin.
water

Injury to

To Prevent
the

Dust
with

Kid

Gloves

from

Perspiration.

hands, justbefore drawing

powdered

starch

the

on

gloves,

pulverizedsoapstone.
whose
hands
Persons
perspirebadly will find that
their gloves will keep clean and looking well much
longer.
corn

To
No.

or

Kid

Clean

Gloves.

singlepair of glovesis nicelycleaned by

puttingthem into an ordinary pintfruit jar,alongwith
h pintof ordinarystove gasoHne. Screw on the cap with
1.

"

its rubber
around

shake

in

minute

removed.

If traces

little may

inverted,they can
the work.

to do

gasoline,and

the

Some

up.

the cap, but if not

enough
from

and

examine

escape

be shaken

Remove

for

any

yet remain,rub them

them
dirt

with

not

cloth

dipped in gasoline,when the last traces disappear.

The glovesdr}^very quickly,and to remove
the last
traces of odor, placethem
upon a platecovered with
another
the top of a boiling
plate and place over
kettle.
This temperature will not hurt the glove,
and

the

develop
or

of

warmth
any

naked

gasoline.

odor.

flame

of

the

hand

Beware
any

of

kind

will

not

afterward

a
gettingnear
while
working

fire
with

144

THE

DYEING

To

Clean

AXD

CLEAXIXG

Kid

Gloves.
of

glovesare to be
cleaned, procure a wide-mouthed
glassjar,say 2 ft.high
and 8-inch stopper of glass. Such jarsare
easilyprocurable,
being much used in pliarmacy.Put in 2 or 3
glovesas
gallonsof benzine or gasolineand as many
No.

the

2.

T\'here

"

Uquid will

After

gloves with
them

wrmg

large number

Close the bottle and

cover.

minutes

few

hook

out

one

shake
or

by

again, and

pair of
one,

or

suitable
in

shake

the

remove

iron

pairs,if

well.

forceps,
the

wise

precautionhas been taken to tie the button-holes

pairingthem before putting
together,or in some
way
Let
them
in, or when received from the customer.
Uquid run back into the bottle. The operator
should be protectedfrom the gases, by facing a good
draught, or better,in front of a chimne}' opening
below the top of the bottle. The gases Ix-ing
somewhat
all the

easilybe drawn away from

the operator. The
chimney should be built purfor this work, and may
be of wood, and where
posel}^
Pro\ision is made
have a blower.
]X)wer is available,
wire inside
for hanging the pairs of gloves across
a
hot- water pipes
the hood of the chimney,and steam
or
be pro\'ided
to raise the temperature sufficiently
may
The chimney should
of odor.
to expel the last traces
heavier

than

air, will thus

the
below
and
above
one
one
oj^enings,
is
one
arrangement of heating pipes. The upper
opened only while placing the gloves to be dried.
The benzine remaining in the bottle assumes
a
dirty
too
color during the washing, and when
dirty
gray
have

two

OF

be

must

redistilled

or

145

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

thrown

away.
for
made

very

good

small sum,
be
a
distilling
apparatus can
and the redistilledgasoHne or benzine is less odorous
than at first. A common
3-gallontin can makes a
It has two
openings,
good retort for this purpose.
cap and the other is the spout.
Arrange to set it in a water bath, which may be a
tin pail
A common
tub of water heated with steam.
with

one

with

screw

sides
straight
:\Iake the

worm.

by winding it

well for the cooler for the

answers
worm

coil from

J-inch lead pipe

smaller
something somewhat
than the cooler. Set the worm
into the cooler,
passing
the
the lower end out through a hole in or near
bottom; the upper end may rest in a notch on the
the top. The
top or pass out through a hole near
had best be
top and bottom openings of the worm
be soldered or luted watertight.
and may
on
oppositesides,
The

around

upper

end

of the

worm

is belled out

so

pipe from the retort and to be packed

with damp cotton, clay,or anj^hing not soluble in
gasoline. After gettingall ready and connectingthe
pipe from the retort,fillthe cooler with water and
add a lump of ice. Steady the retort in the tub so
the spout,
ebullition will not disturb it,and make
as

to admit

with
end

short

of the

the tub

the

with

will

pieceof pipe to
worm.

connect

Distillation is

hot water, and

vciy

keep it going. It is best to

surroundingit with hot water,
chargescan be added.
10

witli the belled

begun by filling
small steam
pipe

fillthe retort before

but

with

care

fresh

146

THE

To

DYEIXG

Provide

from

Stains

Remove

CLEAXIXG

AND

Kid

Gloves.

glassjar,and in the bottom of it place

about J inch in depth of ammonia.
Have
that
a care
the sides and top of the jarare not wetted
with the
ammonia.
in
Suspend the gloves from the cover
such manner
that they touch neither the sides of the
The most
delicate shades
jar or liquidin the bottom.
of colored gloves are not injuredby this treatment,
and should remain
about 8 hom*s in the atmosphere
a

of ammonia.

To
No. 3.

"

about

Kid

Fuller's eaith and

and rubbed
bran

Clean

the

upon

in the

same

in the

Bi-ush

quite clean

rub

dry powder

of fuller's earth.

To
Put

Kid

work

the

tliis off,and

clean woollen

Clean

both

diy,

brush; follow with

roll and

or

bran.

with

powdered alum,

gloves with

way,

dry

Gloves.

rag

glove
if not

dipped

into

Gloves.

gloves on the hands, and wash them in

rectified spirits
of turpentine until quiteclean.
Rub
them exactlyas if washmg the hands.
TMien fuiished
hang them in a current of air to dry and until the
odor

the

of

AMiere turpentineis
turpentineis removed.
used, heatingto expelthe turpentineis to l^e avoided,
as
a
slightyellowingmay result.
It is ob^ious that gasoline,benzine,benzol,ether,
in
be used
chloroform, petroleum spirit,etc., can
in which case
the di'jHng
be
place of turpentine,
may

14S

DYEING

THE

To

AND

Dye

Kid

CLEANING

Gloves.

fii'stbe

cleaned,or if
thorouglily
not much
soiled,they may.be d3'edand cleaned at
one
operation. Dj-es,called oil-soluble dyes, are to
be first obtained from the dealer,a red,a yellow,and
The

gloves must

blue.

Take

bit of each

of these

and

dissolve in

shake well up
phialsin gasoline,
and allow to settle. To the gasolinein which
you
intend to clean the gloves add a small portion from
of the phialsuntil about the rightcolor
more
or
one
in the
Wash
the gloves both together
is obtained.
gasoUne. Colors are not taken up always with equal
so
rapidity,
keep your liquoron the lightside and see
what
get after the gloves are put in. You can
you
then add a httle more
red, yellow,or blue from the
needed to complete the shade wanted.
phialsas seems
and
The glovesare dj^edinside and out in this way,
if too dark shades are
attempted the hands may be
of
soiled when
smell
To
remove
wearing them.
gasolineplace the gloves over
boilingwater l^etween
two
time, until the odor is gone.
platesfor some
each

of three

small

To
First clean the
Draw

the

Kid

Black.

Gloves

and
gloves from perspiration
ven,^

smoothly

on

wooden

grease.

"glove

apply the dye liquorwith a sponge as

with
evenly as possible.The glove is first moistened
of sal-soda to 1 pintwater
and dried.
a solution of 1 oz.
of logwood is then brushed
A strong decoction
over
it and left for 10 minutes,and preferably
rotated so
hand"

and

glove

Dye

149

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

drying.
drainingdown or uneven
of logwood and again dry.
Repeat the application
If the logwood decoction is strong enough, this ought
tion
and glove into a soluto be enough; then dip hand
the glove
of copperas, or nitrate of iron. When
shall be

there

begins to dry
the hand

from

no

with

and

press between

it is

again rubbed

put

upon

not

the

get upon

with

hand.

Be

is

talc and

careful that

take

Afterward

flannel.

littletalc and

the inside of the

but the appearance

Any

olive oil and

rub

olive oil and

dye does
glove; it will not crock,
the

injured.

of the water-soluble

anilines may

be used

for

gloves must be clean of greasy

kid has great affinity
for these dyes
The
matter.
the
well.
Place the glove on
and holds them
very
hand and apply a decoction of the dye made
wooden

this purpose.

The

A sponge works
paint to the shade wanted.
more
evenly than a brush, though good work may
be done with either. To prevent stiffness,
especially
in the seams,
apply gasolinein which a little oleic
add to the dye a very little
acid has been dissolved,
or
also be used
glycerine.Glycerineand water may
after all else is done; don't use
too much
glycerine.
up

like

Neutral

dyeing colors are best for these

B-blue,
B-yellow,
B-black, ^ElberfeldCo.
B-green,

purposes.

B-brown.
These

colors

etc.
gasoline;

are

soluble

in

alcohol

Their solutions

are

and

benzine,

good
equally

for

150

DYEING

THE

feathers.

of oleic acid
stiffness.

solutions

benzine

The

CLEANING

AND

should

have

in them

(red oil)dissolved

trace

to

prevent

work
satisfactory
UncUssolved
be done with these wares.
can
particles
solved
be guarded against,as a few specks of undismust
dye in making a lightshade would spoilthe
then a
glove for any color except black, and even
bronze
To

By

practicevery

some

result.

effect may
Various

Dye

Articles
with

Of

'^

Them

Wetting

Water.

introduction

ciuiterecent

so-called

without

to

oil-soluble colors."

the

trade

These

the

are

in

soluble

are

gasolineand

petroleum productsgenerally. A bath

be made
by using these dyes dissolved in the
may
benzine, etc.,and dipping the articles into
gasoline,
articles can
The
be thoroughly
it for a moment.
cleansed
time.

from

By

greasy

obtained

boast

still they will last until

rule the
times
stove

or

the

same

over

and

great

no

nency,
perma-

they need cleaning

be repeated. As a
be used
run

the

dozen

gasoline

automobile.

"Steam-cleaned''

that

of

operationcan
bath of gasolinecan
finally
employed to

Steam

water.

same

one

colors thus

again, when

dirt at the

operationsilk veils,kid,silk,and
each and all be thus dyed. Although

the

lisle glovescan
the

and

matters

''steam

they heat

means

Cleaning.
washed

laundry"

therefore

their water, melt

their

with

soap

and

simply means
soap, dry their

also

are

in

heated

Their

closed.

''open" or

either

garments, however, imply

washed

with

It has

water.

or

goose,

Steam-cleaned
than

little more
found

been

pipes,
flatirons,

steam

chest."

''steam

from

heat

linen, etc., by

customers'

151

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

simply

that

men's

coats, waistcoats, trousers, etc.,requireto be handtreated in such

time

same

another

for
best

The

to

it with

has

been

upon

the

there

is at

is
the

which
"felting,"

cause

used

shrinking,when

table

or

and

bench

in this

is to

yet found

means

is but

apply

nection.
con-

place the
hot

suds

scrubbing-brush.Dirt and grease that

for months
graduallyaccumulating in the
a

and

speedilyloosened

fabric is thus
into

will

that

name

garment

water

friction of the parts of the garment upon

no

another

one

and

soap

thoroughly while

into them

worked

the

that

way

lather, and

will rinse

og

worked

out

and

when

water

is

to be,
it. The
secret of success
seems
poured over
then
lather and
to
thoroughly brush up a warm
thoroughly rinse it off. Occasionallyan exceedingly
second time
a
soiled garment needs to be gone over
with the scrub-brush,and again rinsed off. Bristle
for the purpose, and are
brushes are made
especially

Any good clothes-brush may, of course, be

used, but the wood of its settingis ruined in a short
time.
Wringing, by twistingthe goods, will not do
in regular works
or
at all, and
hydro extractors

the best.

machines
are
centrifugal
wringer is good, but
squeeze

what

out

drainingfor

time

you

the

used.
where
can

excess

The
not

and

clothes-

common

obtainable, best
hang

of water

up.

After

will settle in

152

DYEIXG

THE

the

lowest

the

hands.

and

the

points and
Small

towel

swing it round
out

the water

Out

of doors

put in
same

with
up

the garment

rub

Unen:
while
up

the

the

down

and

is

brush.

tub,

and

goods. Don't
in washing
as

You

water

all
The
These
or

souse

may
to

out

get

It is usual

essential.

of soda,

support the garment

to

wann

with

better

no

into

the board

''steam-clean"

carbonate

some

for these

wash]x)ard,work

common

attempting to redj^ethem.
union dj^eis to be used.
a
tam

Where

garment

simply

in. clean

to

can

persons

provided

the face of the

thoroughnessis

necessary

the

large garments

be necessarj^
were

all upon

it with

scrub

you

and

soap,

board

at

of

the

lather all over

good

Also
two

wash-room.

on

and

jmnp rope and throw

the centrifugal
machine.

house

take

brush, and

wheel

and

of course,

the

he had

to

like

children

in imitation

regularlyappointed
i-

can

sheet

as

would,

again squeezed with

be placed in a towel

pretty well.

out

operationsunless
wa}'

be

round

swung

be

can

CLEANING

can

articles

thrown

thus

water

AND

garments

it
the
and

before

exceptionis where
dyes usuallycon5'ou

directed

are

to

be
The dye bath may
d3^e bath.
heated
the garment put in without
to boilingand
the dye, but with the carlx)nate of soda; don't boil
but thoroughly work
the garment in the hot Uquid
for say 10 minutes, lift,
and inspectit after draining.
It wiU usually appear
that the dirt is sufficiently
add

to

some

removed

and

remain,

some

apphed

as

the

that
soap

no
on

spots remain.
your

If spots do

scrul"brush

further treatment, and

the

must

be

garment

again soused in
the soda Hquid
and

the
is

dye vessel and

soiled,best
very

present shape are

garment, however,

their
the

not

however,

in the

leave
if let out,

in

on

take

so

be

ripped at
over,

all.

all

Detached

lost,or

in

worn

If

folds,
pieces

to settle down

fore
get unevenly colored,and there-

and

them

to

are

be

it away

throw

be let out.

liable to be

very

dye bath

to

liquid. If

soda

is to be made

tucks,gathers,etc.,must
are,

that

Garments

afresh.

start

153

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

out

part
no

if

possible.Seams
than

more

ravel

necessary.

Dry Cleaning.
is performedin a variety
so-called,
Dry cleaning,"
the garment
all of which, however, immerse
ways,
less agitaor
fluid other than water, with more
tion,
a

"

of

in

to

than

work

those

out

of

an

as

much

possibleother matters
be caught and
that may

as

oilynature

imprisoned in the cloth. Soaps soluble in benzine

used in conjunction. Ammonia
are
gas is forced in
drums to aid and facilitate
under pressure in air-tight
The ammonia
the process.
process is best,but can
in gasoImmersion
line,
hardly be carried out at home.
petroleum
benzine,naphtha, carbon disulphide,
chloroform,ether,etc.,can, however, be done
spirits,
taken to prevent accident by fire.
if there is due care
Chloroform
is not inflammable,or at least not readily.
Carbondisulphideis not only very inflammable, but
are
and the products of combustion
both the vapor
and
cause
great injury or even
irrespirable
may
death

if

inhaled,though

in contact

with

the

the

person.

flame

The

does
most

not

come

important

154

DYEING

THE

fluid used

the

out

squeeze

this process

with

thingillconnection

bath, for rinsingpui'poses,

is to

first-class work

in the

economical

is to

recourse
a

towel

wring

the

home

at

possibleand

all

out

whiz

or

is

cylinderpress

but

largeway,
and

is to

thoroughly
for cleansing.A second
is highlyimportant where

done.

be

squeeze

sheet

or

CLEANING

AND

best

place in
of doors.

out

tion,
benzine, etc.,holds the grease in solugasoline,
it again in the goods upon
and if left in deposits
drying. The goods after drying must be well beaten
that any dust be knocked
out and ''spotted."Spots

The

that remain
with
and

brush, soap

to

the

fingernail

the
the

the

restore

The

that

the

and

therefore

chief

garment

done
carefully
of soap

or

in bulk

is,is

is
of

water

warm

universal
dirt than

it may

kind.

cleaning,therefore,sponge

if

simple a
off with

come

local

rinsed

and

afterward

dash

of cold water, but

It will act

other

So

supplementedby

take hot water

solvent.
any

fected,
af-

evenly,and

over

of any

be

wet,

is not

color

will not, however,

must

be

to

dust-catchingresidue

no

matter

unctuous

rinsed out, and

can

likelyto

are

have

not

all

affected

justsimply rinsed by

not

does

leaves behind

with

operator

stains that

shrink,the

not

thingas sugar candy

"diy cleaning,"but
treatment

the

advantages of ''drycleaning" is

does

or, if it

thing within

other

any

experienceof

spots and

tried upon

remain.

color),or

and

knowledge

be

simply mud and scratch aw^ay

and
slightbrushing. Soapsuds
alcohol (chloroform
bark, tetrapole,

often

are

to do it. Water

upon

forms

more

liquid know^n.
any

"

spots with

After
a

dry

sponge

156

DYEING

THE

added

to the starch.

parafRne wax
Arabic, etc.,is all
use

or

'^domestic"

ironed

on

The

or

popularidea
other

some

bosh.

machine

CLEANING

that laundries

form

of wax,

The

the

where

iron turns

and

is stationary,
the result
ironing-board
is turningat
where the ironing-board

is a

the

finish.

result is the

or

wrinkles
the

worked

handle

if

starched

and

should

iron

smoothed

be

the

should

goods
out

with

have
the

iron

don't

it until the collar is

finish.

Set

the

hand.

get domestic

Collars
the

palm of
ironing.

damped againbefore
heavy as the operator

as

move

the

high gloss;
same
time,

working by

collar and
you

'^domestic"

or

dried and

hand, then

The

dull

heavily

any

gum

glossis due entirelyto

friction. Pressure
alone gives a dead
finish,without gloss. If a collar is

and

pressure

AND

If you

rub

the

can

upon

dry, and

iron

back

polishingiron,which is rounded
off upon the heel in such manner
as to tipit up with a
will result.
or
a high polish
a jerkysort of hitch,
sliding
Chinaman
will understand
a
Anyone who has watched
he uses, but it is impossibleto
the movement
describe it. The formula
here given is for starching
forth

and

or

cuffs and

collars and

starch,or
with

cold

free from
make
for at

the whole

of wheat

1 lb. of wheat

and

corn

and boil the

gallon,
minutes, better } hour or

up

least 20

keep

Take

starch

and stir it thoroughly

fancy or requirements,
until a uniform
water
milky fluid results,
lumps; then add boilingwater enough to

stirringall
to

shirt fronts:

admixture

any

to suit the

use

out

the

to

time.

dust

and

one

The

vessel should

dirt,both

while

be

mixture

longer,
covered

boilingand

OP

when

prevent
upon

the

from

removed

The

laundryman, and should

The

Pressing

furthermore

fire,and

starch paste from

skin of hardened

its surface.

157

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

is from

above

and

be accurate

of Woollen

Cloths

to

forming
practical

up

to

date.

Garments.

and

textile mills it is

that
thoroughly understood
is the chief means
of making the fabric soft
steam
and flexible so it may
be stretched perfectly
to width
be
and
smoothness, and furthermore that it must
pressed and heated until dry to make it retain its
The goods are
width, length,gloss,and smoothness.
stretched, however, when
simply wet, and held
stretched out until dry. They also have been brushed
Before
all lie one
the nap
to make
pressing
way.
the goods run
over
a
plateperforatedwith holes to
allow escape of steam, which passes through the cloth
mediatel
and damps slightly,
and imand softens and warms
under the press cylinder. These
afterward
conditions
be met
must
as
nearly as possiblewhen
woollen clothes or garments are ''done over" at home,
it is simply pressinga pair of pants that
whether
In

have

never

that

has

been
been

wet,

or

scoured

it is

whether
or

or

whether

in

deavor
redyed. The enthe scouringor
should
be always as soon
as
the goods is finished,
that wets
to pull
any
process
and stretch the garment to as nearly as possibleits
shape and keep it there until quite dry.
proper

addition

Then

as

the

steam

garment

has

washed,

garment

some

is necessary

been

the

expedientis

resorted

158

of

to

DYEING

THE

that

CLEANING

AND

pressingunder a clamp cloth, the objectbeing

the damp of the cloth is Cjuickly
converted
into
by

steam

the heat

of the iron and

forced

into

down,

through its substance, softeningit at once so it

be pushed and pulledunder the iron to exactly
may
This is not all,however,
the shape it should have.
It must
be pressed and
that is necessary.
kept
rise
to
ceases
pressed until quite dry and all steam
and

the

is lifted.

from

it when

cloth

damp

cloth is exchanged for

dry

this end

To

the

and

ones

the

pressing
pressedin

perfectlydry. Garments
this way
keep their shape, if they ever had any, and
preserA'e their lustre (press finish)for weeks, where
if let to go but partlydried and still smoking under
wrinkled
and
the iron they would
become
cockly
old piece of canvas,
in two
three days. A worn
or
soft from much
use, is best for dampening and laying
continued

on

the

over

to

until

less flexible

for

out

with

press

softer

ones

it and

use

of the

goods;

wear

dr}ing

out,

only

ones

Home

flatirons

work,

nearly

hea^y-men's-weargoods. The
better,as big as the operator can

press
the
or

more.

pressure

and
a

Pressiue
is not

upon

backed

of
lastingc{uantity

proper

goose,

and

care

small

up

with

heat

to

to

the
do

replace
passing

lbs.

help,but

proper

nap

to

the iron

handle, 20

good
the

the

as

useless

heavier

flat is

lay

and

for the final

are

used

be

mav

.softestand

take the next

the newest

iron.

the

ones

the

volume

work.

With

well, press

carefullyto shape and diy under the iron in

why the done-over
position;there is no reason
should
look as perfectin shape as when
not

that
suit
new.

and

If faded

threadbare

to

the

good

and

actuallyragged. It is a fact
having but few clothes,but taking
person
of them, gets more
care
genuine
intelligent

satisfaction

or

wife

have
the

by

it is

an

at

thro\\Ti

suit that

he

put

all easy

to

your

neighbor
quite as
know

may

you

Garment-Dyeing.

what

say

lessly
care-

in order.

in

Mordants

than

garments

conversation

sister to

or

make

object,and
and

company

Effect of Previous

It is not

should

other

any

done-over

in the

appearance

suits every, month

new

prized,as well as
will enjoy your

The

her dressed

or

Associations

by.

helpedyour

his

from
with

the person

well

feel ashamed

need

one

no

in it until

appear

that

it will still have

even,

and

presentable
appearance,

*159

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

mordants

have,

dyeing of a garment
If
that produced the cloth.
manufacturers
be
all-wool garment, all one
color,it may
not, been

that

assumed

in the

used

it has

mordant

it except, of course,

on

all the fibre

posing
com-

the

linings. If, again,

of lightand bright
it is all-wool,but has a number
hair lines,etc.,they may
not
or
overplaidings,
may
of white
have
mordant, and any interweavings
any
mix
effects in any
or
part showing up white,
yarn
these
It

assumed

will be

mode
how
or

be

may

of
much

readilyseen
procedure will
of the

it will be easy

be without

that
be

component

piece of cloth,have

Also

to

any

somewhat

necessary,

mordant.
different

according to

parts of the garment,

previouslybeen

to understand

that any

mordanted.

dye

about

16(J

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

for chrome
(or any
appliedhaving any affinity
mordant
chemical) will be first attracted by the
and will be taken up by them in undue
chromed
fibres,
be expected
amount, and the resultant dyeing may
still show
the lightthreads
to not ''cover,"i.e.,
up.
It will be found too that where green, red,and brown,
in the cloth that they
etc.,threads or checks were
show up still,
even
though the whole has been colored
these check effects are
Where
black.
prominent it is

to be

usuallyconceded

that

the color from

first be

can

It is

all the fibre

which

removed,

be secured

can

less
un-

composing the garment

is seldom
attempted.

fresh mordant

bath

is prepared

the percentage of bichromate

made

pretty

often

more

and

monotint

no

that

high that the fresh mordanting may not only even

the dye-receiving
condition,but also stripoff some
the

colors

per

cent

of bichromate

of oxalic

goods.

already on.
acid

are

It matters

used
not

this end

To
of
in

potash
a

and

the

dye

to

of
20

even

the

bath

mordant

whether

and

10

up

amount

for such
be

used

acid, afterchrome, regular mordant, union,

color, the effect is to
monochrome, or what-not
is

an

and to change
yellowall the wool material somewhat
the cotton
liningsin color according to what they
The garment should
been dyed with.
have previously
have
been scoured
previous to chroming, but any
spots are left to see the effect of the chroming upon
of pieces
them, as usuallythey disappear. Thousands
of cloth

are

that
no

mordant

sent

out

every

year

by

the

turers
manufac-

and
union-dyed,or acid-d3^ed,
them.
Burning the cloth to
upon

are

have
ashes

OF

TEXTILE

161

FABRICS.

treatingthe ashes to water and a drop of acid

will develop a yellow color if chromium
is present,
and
if neutralized
with a little potash,crystalsof
bicliromate of potash will form upon evaporation.
and

Soap-Making.
Soap

is

chemical

combination

acid
fatt}^
usuallypotasli
a

lye the base of which is

or
soda; the potash h^e producing true soft soaps
and soda lye hard soap.
Caustic soda or caustic potash is now
readilyol"
tainable in any quantities
in the market.
It is furnished
into which it was
in drums
poured in a molten
It is also furnished
condition,and as hard as stone.
ready crushed to about the size of a grainof barley,
and simply needs to be dissolved in water
to the
strength for soap-making.
proper
causticized his own
Formerly each soai"boiler
lyes,
and employed 3 strengthsof lye,one
of about 25" to
30" Baume, another of 12" to 18" Baume, and a third
of 2" to 5" Baume.
The causticizing
done thus:
was
One part of quicklime,slaked by sprinkling
on
just
sufficient water
to crumble
it,was added to 3 parts
of soda carbonate
in 5 parts of water.
If potash,
the same
adhered
to.
weights and proportionswere
with

caustic

of

Stir the

mixture

and

allow

it to

settle.

The

clear

or
liquoris poured off and constitutes the first,
strong
5 parts
lye,25" to 30" Baume.
By addingsuccessively
of water
from the first,
and
to the sediment
a second
third lye was
obtained,the final washingsbeingused

11

162

start

to

and

second

The

fresh lot.

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

melted

in

an

in
heat, stirring
after about

iron boiler and

kept

little at

of third

let the mixture

hour

an

time

lyes are
lbs. fat

Twenty

strong enough for generalpui'poses.

are

third

at

moderate

lye,10 lbs. ;
get up to boiling-

point and stir in by degrees 10 lbs. second lye. This

completes the first stage, which is termed sponification. The next step, "cutting up the pan," is to add
and
of soda
lye containing
by degrees a mixture
2

or

3 lbs.

from

of water
and

stir for

be
5

and
time, settle,

water, which

lbs. of first

should

soapy

draw

paste; boil
off from

the

salt,is added.

scales appear

regular,dry

cloth

let it settle and

the soap

Put

which

starch,and

if the

hours;

and

perfectlymixed

when

meanwhile

soap

too

been

bottom.

is

as
happen if too weak
liquid,
may
salt,or weak lye containing
used, some
when
The boihng is tenninated
large,

become

case

lye; and,

for

boil

fye has

the

curd, lea\inga

excess

usually quite colored.

has now
to
third operation,called clearboiling,
into the paste by degrees
performed. Stir now

smooth,

the

some

the

bottom
The

the

salt. This separates out

common

has
as

been

soon

as

on

draw

top; when

the

off the

into frames
well
the

soap

liquidfrom

lined with

powdered

this is

with

is firm

cut

the

cotton

lime
and

and

lay

dry. No salt is added in making soft

separationof any of the hquid takes
soap and no
be exermust
cised
place. The whole is used, and care
that just enough caustic lye is used to make
unused
to injure
the soap and not leave an
excess
it out

to

the hands.

164

DYEING

THE

AXD

CLEAXIXG

Hard

Home-Made

lye in a clean
in at
stirring

the above

To

clarified grease,

mushn

largeenough

the contents

it stand

few

wire

by packing
with

fit for

too

set

in

ozs.

thick

pieceof

with

than

the box

let

and

and

cut

left to

month.

Soap.

slaked

Ume

other

or

and

should

leached

are

receptaclelined
rather

be

harder

centre, but all should

the

packed quitefirm so the water used will not pass

quicklythrough the leach. If the leach is properly
hardwood
up the first lye coming through from

ashes

is very

should

be

strong, if the

stored

awa}'

ashes

from

fresh.

are

air and

of the h'e and

add

to

it,a ladleful

fat, stirring
continuallyuntil
made

on

the surface

with

at

Ashes
If

damp.

potato wiW float,the lye is good. Fill

a
a

kettle

the stick.

full

time, melted

perfectring can

Let

be

the fire go

Any lye that separates may

the kettle. The leach must
poured oflFby tilting

out, and
be

and

made

Soft

packing

the outside

toward
be

The

thus

use

barrel

from

Soap

mixed

into

straw.

time

same

tightbox

Remove

days.

into bars.

ashes

12 lbs.

lay over the sides to allow

beingconvenientlylifted out.

Home-Made
Wood

the

of the kettle into the box

will become

harden

to

of the box

the contents

Pour

with

in readiness

Have

ropy.

iron kettle add

let it boil mitil it becomes

powdered borax;
and

Soap.

the soap

cool.

high enough to allow of

catch the lye,and about ^

be set

some

to

as

vessel
much

lime

being set
used

as

TEXTILE

OF

ashes;

if the last
until

it down

run

of the

To
which
made

leach is too

potato will float

Toilet

165

FABRICS.

on

weak, boil
the cooled lye.

Soaps.

belongthe finer kinds of scented soaps,

emolhent
properties.They are rarely
perfumer,the body or basis beinga well-

this class
have

by

the

subsequentlyto be cleaned and

purified. For the choicer grades olive and sweetthe fat,lard,and
oil should be selected,
almond
as
beef tallow make
the next best grade,and, for palmoil soap, a small quantityof bleached palm oil is
added to tallow or lard. Cocoa oil and palerosin also
into the composition of certain toilet soaps.
enter
These
body soaps may be obtained as wanted from
wTll-ordered soap factory. To be adapted to
any
be neutral,
of the perfumer they must
the purposes

selected white

soap

unpleasantodor and all tendency to

in
crust or effloresce in cold or dry weather,or sweat
They should,moreover, give a rich
damp weather.
lather without wasting too much
or
rapidlyin the
water.
Soaps in their originalcondition are apt
of these points,
and must
to be deficient in some
first,
for the purposes
of the perfumer,undergo a refining
The soap as purchased in bars or blocks is
process.
piled upon the shelf of the rasping-machine,and
firm,free

from

placedin the hopper,and as the wheel revolves knives

come
againstthe soap and cut it into meal, which
In this state
falls into a receptionbox underneath.
it melts very readilyand is transferred to a steam
bath and mixed
with rose and orange-flower
water,

166

THE

of each
The

J gallonto

kettle

turned

on

''crutched"
its end

lbs. of

100

every

rasf)edsoap.

is
steani
jacketed,and when
melts
the soap
and
must
be
graduall}'
with a stick having a cross
board upon
or

until

adchtion

^\Tien there

CLEANING

AND

is steam-

It is now
^dthout

DYEING

are

paste of unifonn
allowed
of

rose

to

tained.
consistencyis obcool,but is again melted

water

several

kinds

and

crutched

of soap

to

as

be

before.
used

in

blend,each must be rasped,melted, and crutched

added
and
at a time successively
or
one
separately,
crutched constantly
mixture,
^lien
to effect an even
the pa,ste is nearh^ cool, coloringmatters
be
maj'
as
added, and lasth^ the perfume, to avoid as much
one

loss b}^ evaporation from

possilDle
AMien
extracts
or
bouquets are used

the

hot

paste.

thej^must be
added
direct to the meal
and forcibh^ incorporated
by kneading \^'ith the hands or passing repeatedly
between
marble
rollers. -An}' appUcation of heat
would
occasion loss of perfume and impair the odor.
The soap is now
ready for the rectangularwell,made
of wooden
frames set one
another, called cooling
upon
frames.
it is hard
In a day or two
enough to be
cut into tablets the size of each frame; these are set
and allowed to dry for several days and
up edge\\ise
then barred by means
of wire. The heightof the hfts
make
the lengthof the bar and the gauges of the wire
the width, and
made
to cut any
required number
The
divided
into tablets,
bars are
to the pound.
which are pressedto givethem
ment
sohdity,and to ornathe surface with anj^ appropriatedevice, the
maker's

name,

etc.

The

shape of

the

mould

deter-

of the finished cake.

the form

mines

167

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

hand

ordinary construction,operated by
or

be

may

die-box

givingvertical blows of constant

spiralspring throws each cake from the
soon

as

foot,

or

hammer

force.

press is of

The

is removed.

the pressure

as

Floating Soaps.
increase in bulk

by mechanical
beating of the paste. The loss of densitythus produced
givesthem the property of floatingin water.
The
beating is best accomplishedby a churn twirl
rotatingin the bottom of the pan and operated by
handle.
a
Expose 5 lbs. oHve-oil soap to a steam or
heat along with li pints of soft water, and
water
All the hard

beat

colored

be

It may

beaten

scented

pour

hard

when

floats

soap

and

enough

quickly,and
This

until it has doubled

the mixture

up

When

soaps

on

the

at

it into

water, but

time.

same

Cool

cold frame.

it into

cut

its volume.

bars

will not

or

bear

cakes.

much

soaking,as it rapidlysoftens.
Transparent Soap.
is made

This

by dissolvinghard white soap, previously

and
to meal
thoroughly dried, in

reduced

alcohol.

steam

bath fitted with

good containing vessel.

taken in about
equal parts
is saved.
Time

alcohol that
heat

The

is allowed

fluid is drawn

for

and

comes

should

stillhead

Alcohol

any

as

are

solution proceeds

exceed

settling,after

off into wooden

the

soap

in the

over

not

and

makes

condenser
212"

which

frames,or

the

Fahr.
clear

britannia

168

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

globesif desired to make it into balls. Previous

it may
be colored with alcoholic tinctures
to settling
for
for green, tm'meric
of alkanet for red,clilorophyll
yellow, etc. Transparent soap is only translucent
clear when
when
first made, and only becomes
fectly
permetal

the

perfumesare

The

dry.

as

same

other soaps.

Glycerine Soap.
Any mild toilet soap with which about 2V of its
weight of glycerinehas been incorporatedwhile in
It is generallytinted red or rose
the melted
state.
color with a littletinctm*e of archil or dragon'sblood,
It is variously
scented,bergaor
orange wdth annatto.
mot
being
rose
or
geranium,supportedby oil of cassia,
common.

Windsor

White
old white

Genuine
of which

lard and

Windsor

ern

115
attar

soap

of carawaj^

Curd

ozs.

oil is the
rosemary

is made

lbs.,cocoanut-oil
8

each

oUve

soap

from

is made

Windsor

lavender,and

caraway,

Soap.

IJ lbs., attars

Brown

Windsor

of

perfume.
curd

thyme

of cloves

bod}^

attars

lbs.,perfumed

20

attars

the

fine white

from

each, and

stock, and

and

and

of

]\Iodsoap

with
mary
rose-

cassia of

ozs.

soap,

yellowrosin

100

soap

Soap.

lbs.; cocoanut-oil

soap

of each 25 lbs. ; color with

and

pale

caramel

perfume with attars of carawaj^, cloves,

cassia,
petitgrain and lavender of each 1 oz.
thjTiie,
Oleic soap of fii'stgrade is peculiarly
adapted as a
8 ozs., and

body
is very

smooth

normal

moisture

it

gives a rich lather,

highly emollient,and holds its

Windsor,

for brown

169

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

and
for

as

long time.

very

Honey

Soap.

curd soap, 40 lbs. ; melted

White
white

honey,
benzoin, 1 lb.

lbs.;storax,

10

crutched

and

lbs.,and

with

powdered

Sulphur Soap.
White

curd

Castile soap, fresh

or

fine well-washed

of

flowers

made, J lb.,1

oz.

rectified

sulphur, 1 oz.
alkanet, and

sufficient
spirits(alcohol)colored with
Beat the
to stronglyscent the mass.
attar of roses
whole
together in a marble or Wedg^^ood mortar
until it is a smooth, even
paste. Its dailyuse tends
to

the skin fair and

render

color may

be omitted

smooth.

will.

at

The

Highly

alcohol

and

recommended

in various skin diseases.

Caution

in

Using

Medicated

Soaps.

using mercurial or sulphur soaps, finger

rings,ear rings,and bracelets of gold, etc.,should be
removed
and
not
replaced until a short time after
become
the skin is again dry; otherwise
they may
The
corroded.
same
tarnished, or even
appliesto
all other cosmetics
containingsulphur or mercury.
Before

Whale-Oil
Boil any

caustic

Soap

to

Destroy

quantityof whale-oil

lyeto

make

it into soap.

Insects.

foots with
Pour

sufficient

off into moulds

170

DYEING

THE

is

cold,it

and, when

from

is the sediment

AND

CLEANING

tolerablyhard. Whale-oil foots

whale oil.
refining

Carbolic-Acid

Freshly-made cocoanut-oil
then

add

lemon,

be

poured

into moulds.

and

to

perfume

sublimate,1 drachm; alcohol to

1 oz.; powdered Castile soap, 4 ozs.
in a Wedgwood
uniform
mortar
mass

with

attar

oil of bitter almonds.

This

has

Soap.

corrosive

dissolve,about
them

been

of

melted
1

oz.

the

mass

or

roses

oil of cassia and

Nothing metallic

recommended

must

touch

it.

skin diseases.

in various

Glycerine-Soap
To

parts; fuse,

150

solution of caustic potassa, 2 parts; oil of

Mercurial

Beat

soap,

part; and carbolic acid,6 parts; alcohol,10

parts. To

Crushed

Soap.

Balls.

sliced,and
add pure glycerine
without water, if possible,
until
to the pound; thoroughly incorporate,
any

recently made

has become

toilet soap,

cool and make

Sand-Soap

at

once

into balls.

Balls.

recentlymade best yellowsoap with or without

J of its weight of white soft soap and a littlesweet oil,
and add J the weight of the melt of finelypowdered
pumice stone,marble dust,fine sifted washed sand,etc.
and for dirty,hard work
Used for scouringpurposes
and to prevent roughening and thickening
generally,
of the skin in cold weather.
Nothing equal to it for
Melt

172

THE

36" Baume,

with

paddle until
be

lbs. fat at

100

Continue

scented

to stir with

be

stirred in.

the

soaps,

The

paste is

not

temperature

complete ring can

With

surface.

CLEANING

AND

104" Fahr.

higherthan

now

DYEING

broad

drawn

the

on

perfumes

must

put into the

now

so that when
having broad cotton-cloth linings
the frame
is completely full there shall jet remain
the soap.
sufficient of the cloth to completely cover

frames

The

frames

and

left 12

are

covered

now

with

hours, during which

time

wooden

cover

the temperature

conaderably, producing completely the

When
cool the soap is cut, pressed,
saponificatioiL
The
degree of hardness of
etc.,in the usual way.
the soap will depend u}X)n the sort of fat used,
^'ery
be melted
to
hard fats,like tallow,must
pre^aous
the lye,and requiremechanical
means
incorpora^ting
will

rise

to stir in the

caustic

soda.

With

cotton-seed

foots

is easj' and may

stirring
be done with a hoe, like mortar-mixing,and the lye
in the foots,
be less in proportionto the water
may
36" Baume,
should
be rather
but
stronger than
mixed
in a mortar
box, covered with old sacking for
cotton-seed
a couple of days to ripen. This
soap is
largelymade and used in textile mills.

containingmuch

the

water

WastLing-Soap.
A
and

mixture

of 60 lbs. tallow

palm oil,with

the cold process

and

Baume
turn

out

244

25

with

40

or

30 lbs. each of tallow

lbs. cocoanut

125

oil treated

lbs. caustic soda

lbs. of salt water

lbs. washing-soap.

of

12"

lye of

Baume

by
27"
\sdll

OF

173

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

Cold-Made

Soft

Soap.

by the cokl process is identical with soft

Potash lyemust
method.
be used
soap by the boiling
and will always be pasty or gelatinousif the lye is
free from
soda.
are
usuallymade
Shaving creams
by this process, using white clean lard and caustic
alcohol to give it the proper consistency,
potash,with some
and perfume it well. To f lb. white soft soap
add 2 fluid drachms
liquorof potassa and 1 pint of
alcohol.
Put into a strong bottle and agitatewell
and keep in a warm
placeuntil solution is complete.
After settling
off the clear. If not transparent
pour
add some
alcohol before decanting,and at any
more
be thinned
with alcohol
time, if too thick, it may
Soft soap

or

proofspirit.If
it the

much

essential oil be added

will not

cream

Grease-Removing

be

so

Liquids

to perfume

clear.

for Textiles.

liquidfor this purpose must be such

that, when appUed to the greasy, oily,resinous,or
it shall soften and mingle
tarry spot upon the textile,
with it by rubbing,or simply by contact.
This is a
There
but it is not all that is needed.
prime requisite,
The

nature

of

must

also be the

that

will

allow

property after the spot is softened

usually and
rinsing-fluid,
preferablycold water, being applied to rinse the
cleansing-liquid
togetherwith what it has removed
from the textile,
A further reqcompletely away.
uisite
is that

destroyor

of

some

it shall contain

attack

to

an

no

chemical

that

degree either
appreciable

will
the

174

DYEING

THE

the

fibre compoang
:

undertaken

:r

t-very

."

was

the limit of

However,

case.

neutral

the

injuiyto

silks
wet

would

the

enumerate

to

be

varieties

of

and state specificalK

in
colorings,
case
exactty a liquidcompound that

strengthadmissible
it ma}^

either
textile,

in texture

and

every

neariy

more

be, the

detergent liquidmay

the

in each

be said that the

less risk of

color.

or

Many
The}^

are

"^wfc" with water,

an

requiredif

changed in color by water alone.

inexpensivefabrics,as a rule; yet very

textiles
are

it in its manufacture.

their

-nd

"

coloring-matter

any

i^umlDer of formulas

_:r;ii:

."
"

:;

textile,or

applied to

:".

CLEANING

AXD

in order

over

that

and

if wet

all may

at

be

many

all must

changed

be
alike

equally. In such goods,when greasy spots occur,

removing the grease will invariablyleave a changed
place,but if in addition to treatingthe s}X)tthe whole
in lesser degree, the
aiticle can
be treated, even
change is blended in outline at least,and becomes
and

less noticeable.

much

White

goods, of course, are

aJl,subjectto spotting

degree,if at
frcMn water
or
liquidsused to clean them, except as
to the staiching and
lustring; it is therefore not
necessaij to discriminate ver}- closelyin the nature
of det"ig^itsused on them, so long as it will remove
the fibre
the :^potand not act too energetically
upon
All that class of detergentliquidsthat
of the fabric
ccMnbine with neutral soap, that is,will act as a solin very

veat
grease

less

much

for soap
or

for grease

or

soap

although not
and

with

powders,and
solvents
soap

are

are

solvents

for soap,

are

miscible

with

for

solvents

water.

OF

and

further,are

175

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

be

neutral,may

safelyused

on

any

Soaps in combination with

chloroform, carbon
tetrachloride,ether, alcohol,
benzine, naphtha, gasoline,etc.,are quite harmless
while formulae combining with soap, ammonia,
anyway,
sodium
hydrate, potash
carbonate, sodium
in any of its alkaline salts,
borax, lime,or lime water,
Not that they are not
to be used with caution.
are
all fabrics and

and

that

good, but

colors.

from

they may,

nature, do harm.

their alkaline

tongue and

The

nature's

are

nose

caustic

or

laboratory.A liquidsmellingstronglyof ammonia,

when

or

touched

color

or

rather

are

''bites,"is

tongue

to

be

fibre

of doing injuryto
possibilities

only where

used

the

to

remote.

Spots on Broadcloth.

Small

pipeclaywith 18 drops of alcohol and

the spots with
of turpentine. Rub
18 drops spirits
the
and dab a little of the dry clay on
the mixture
opposite side. Allow to dry and then rub off and
beat out the clay.
Mix

IJ

ozs.

To

Clean

Dissolve 1

salts)in
with

not

by

dry

of

press.

rinsed out, and

Rinse

each

This

case

mixture

therefore

Cloth.

of ammonia

l^lack

kind.

brushingin

and

Black

(smellingthe

cloth

stocking,or

dark-

water, and

warm,

means

cloth of any

cold water,

from

of bicarbonate

quart of

this fluid

colored

then

oz.

Spots

in

rub

same

the way

with

way

of the nap,

is volatile

eliminates any

even

if

danger

176

of

DYEING

THE

and

badly after

look

CLEANING

behind

substance

some
lea^Hllg

dust

AXD

that

catch

may

time.

Cloth-Cleaning Compound.
1 oz. sulphuricether,
together1 oz. glycerine,
alcohol,4 ozs. ammonia, 1 oz. of Castile soap,

Mix
1

oz.

add

then

to make

water

liquidand

quart. Rub

the cloth with

If the color is very

rinse well out.

dehcate,

the ammonia.

omit

Eradicator.

Lightning

togetherthoroughlyand allow to stand a few

days before using 4 ozs. of strong liquidammonia,
of mottled
nitrate of potash, 2 ozs.
1 oz.
soap, in
sha\ings. Cover grease-spots with this compound,
Good
rub well in,and rinse off with water.
on
strong
Any
colors,and removes
grease-spots ver}^ soon.
Mix

good

shavings

soap

be

can

substituted

for mottled

soap.

may

be either

Spots of Unknown
Acid, Resin, Tar, Wax,

One

hundred

parts of alcohol,30 parts ammonia,

Cleansing Fluid

for

This

mixture

through cloth; therefore

if the

parts of benzine.

over

be

may

plate,or any
passedtlirough;a

cup,

pointshastens
of the

try

restore

whole

passes
cloth

or

Grease.

very

be

reacUly

stretched

the
article,

concave

fluid

little friction at the worst

If there

the work.

Origin,that

seems

to

be

part

destroyed after the above treatment,

drops of cliloroform upon it,as it may

color
few
the

dry

color.
and

with

If
a

residue
few

remains

drops of

sperm

best let the

oil soften

OF

tar

up
on

TEXTILE

resin and

or

again wash

and
tooth-brush,

Spots
Melt

177

FABRICS.

with

rinse off with

to be

Known

bit of soap

water.

warm

Grease.

good curd soap in sufficient water, or

take equalweightsof soft soap ; add 1 oz. of ox gall
and
1 oz.
spiritsof turpentineand fuller's earth
enough to allow of being made into balls or cakes;
8

moisten

ozs.

the

grease-spot and

upon

it. Allow

some

as

the

the

rub

dry; brush and

spot is gettingdry.

balls

cakes

or

rinse off and

to

rub

Cleaning Compound.
Four

soft soap, 20
Proof
spiritis

ozs.

water.

alcohol and
30

of water

ozs.

gin is

water.

and 20 ozs.
proofspirit,
of absolute
ecjualvolumes

ozs.

Therefore

would

come

12
near

close

ozs.

of alcohol and

enough. Ordinary
is clear,
proofspirit,

approximationto
and the scent of juniperis no objection
detriment.
or
In fact,
in cleaningcompounds,
gin is often recommended
and for black silk is highly recommended.
The black silk is simply sponged off with a clean
Sponge dipped in gin.
a

Directions

for

Dyeing

Cleanse the feathers first in

warm

Feathers.
water

120", containinga littlesoda,ammonia, or

in this
of ammonia, and allow to remain
the grease
are

cold

has been

100" to

carbonate
bath

until

until they
removed, i.e.,
entirely

absorptive. Oftentimes feathers

water
containingsoda, to which
starch has been added.
12

at

are
a

cleaned

in

little powdered

178

Feathers

are

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

in

bleached

similar

maimer

wool,

to

peroxideof hydrogen, or peroxideof soda.

Feathers are usuallydyed wdth acid dyestuffs(acid
seldom with basic dyestuffs.
colors),
with

With

Acid

Acid

DyestuSs

Colors).

Dye the well-cleaned feathers in a bath just below

with the
the boil for J hour, or for J hour at the IdoII,
quantity of acid color and the addition of
requisite
of oil of ^dtriol (sulphuricacid) 144"
5 per cent
Twaddell.
Basic

With

D3-ethe
in the

feathers at 100" to 120" Fahr.

well-cleaned

after

dyeing in

(From

dr}^
rotating-machine.

of Acid

List

It is well

color.

basic

well-dissolved

the feathers

Colors.

to

Colors.

the Elberfeld

Co.)

Reds.
Acid

magenta,

Brilliant croceine
Carmoisin
Eosine
Fast

B,

B,

bluish,

S extra

red

A,
B, G,

Rhodamine

extra, G

Orange.
Croceine
Eosine

orange

S extra

Mandarine

Orange

11

G,

yellowish,

G,

B,

GT.

extra.

180

DYEING

THE

AND

Leather
methods

CLEANING

Bleaching.

employed for leather bleaching:

oxidation,reduction,and acid bleaching. There is a
Three

topping process

in many

the

cases
or

oxidation

and

skins

actual

used

for the

articles to

same

sa^ung

that

combination

typicalmethods.
with

Reduction
a

of

chamois
bleach

less extent.

is

Ordinary

generallyacid-bleached.
Oxidation

The

or

favorite

animals.

bleachingprocesses,

color instead

is

process

is the

bleach

of furred

real

without

goes

of these processes,

more

The

is

to the

is,of hiding a

that

stripping.It

bleaching or

leather

in addition

method,

of two

are

Bleach.

oldest of these methods

the great time

bleaching,but
bleachingwith

requireshas caused
peroxide of hydrogen, or sodium, which from this
be
point of view may
regarded as concentrated
it in a very largemeasure.
to replace
Leather
sunlight,
tanned
with vegetabletannin should not be bleached
in this wa}^
It bleaches easilymider tliis treatment
but is very apt to darken
certainl}^,
again afterward.
In using sodium
peroxide,the white commercial
der
powis stirred into a J-per-centsolution of oil of vitriol
until the liquid is just perceptiblyalkaline.
The
leather is then soaked in the Uquid mitil the bleaching
has reached
the desired point. It must
be stirred
about
occasionally.Another
bleaching agent for
leather

it

is grass

is permanganate

important

to

use

this in

of potassa, but
acid

it is most

as
solution,

alkaline

the

permanganate liquidstender
favorite

very

solution

The

leather.

in France

way

181

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

leather.

for

used

is

This

is

bleaching chamois

one

lbs. of permanganate

of 2

it is

and

just
acidified with oil of vitriol. A sulphurous acid (sodium
bisulphitehydrochloric acid) is often necessary
in

free the

to

oxide

gallons of water,

200

bleached

leather

it.

precipitatedupon

methods
value

than

these

from

have

No

turned

brown

method

out

is in

bleachingchamber

straw

is then

hydrochloric acid;

varies within

of wet
of gas.

used, it is

wide

out

the

out

use

with

for fur

of
the

skins.

exactly as

in

limits and

must

This

strength required
be

adjustedby

is the

an

tage
disadvan-

sulphur bleachingas compared with the

^^'hether the wet or dry process has been
most

important

of vitriol formed

the

worked

the

experienced leather-bleacher.

rid

to

of any

bleaching. The liquidsulphurous acid

bisulphite
prepared by dissolvingsodium

is

weak

which

be

silk

or

bleach

use

to

Bleach.

practiceconfined
sulphurous acid. It is chieflycarried
oxide, and is generallyused
gaseous
This

in

oxidation

other

for leather.

Reduction

The

manganese

remember

to

that

the

oil

in the leather

during the bleaching,

in it,cannot
be gotten

destroy it if left
of by rinsing. An
alkaline bath must
precede
rinsing,and if the sulphur bleach has not turned
well,the bath may well take the form of a weak
will

solution

of sodium

peroxide.

182

DYEING

THE

AND

Acid

CLEANING

Bleach.

For this bleach the leather is first freed from

vnXh

alkah, preferabh'borax.

of borax

solution

grease

of 3

lbs.

in 6

gallonsof water is required for 100 lbs.

of leather.
After working the leather in this for J
hour, it is drained, rinsed,and bleached in a 4-per-cent
solution of lactic acid.

bleach

The

takes

another

15

minutes.
Methods

Topping
well

answer

"^ith leathers

as
already light-colored,

they do not injm^ethe leather as bleachingis apt to

skilful hands, and are also
imder the most
do, even
be hidden.
cheaper. Dark colors,however, cannot
Sugar of lead and oil of vitriol in alternate weak baths
until sulphateof lead is deposited
are
used, rej^eating
sufficient to hide its natural color,J to |-per-cent
solutions,
and the leather must
first be freed from fat,
and

the first bath

lead,also the last

and saves
much
bath, to neutralize the oil of ^^triol,
rinsing:of late tin salts have been used in conjunction
with white pigments, such as talc,blanc fixe,and
These
pijx-clay.
pigments are also used alone, being
well rubbed into the leather,
which is first thoroughly
must

be sugar

of

soaked.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Grease-Stains

Scrape awa}^
Warm
it and
are

to

with

the paper

from

knife an}"

Paper.
smear

thus

able.
remov-

and

lay a blotting-paper
u}X)n
hot iron. Traces remaining

genth'with a
be removed
pentine
by hot turpentine.Place the turin a bottle; place the bottle containing
the

press

TEXTILE

OF

183

FABRICS.

turpentinein a vessel of cool water and heat gradually

the stain on
to boiling. Lay the turpentineupon
each side, and then, after a few moments,
remove
of a brush or
the turpentinewith alcohol,by means
dipped repeatedly in

swab

the lustre and

restore
a

alcohol.

the

Finally

of the paper

smoothness

with

hot iron.

Grease-Spot-Remover.
Four

ozs.

ether.

with

and

Mix,
the

under

alcohol,16

rag

sides with

stain

of turpentine,
4 ozs.
spirits

ozs.

keep well
and apply

corked.

Place

the

fluid

until the spot is out.

Blot

fresh

blotters

and

dry

freelyto the air. Very old

requireseveral applications.
To

Use

in

blotter

the stain

over

again on both
the shade, exposed

stains of grease

may

Soap-Wort.

Twent3'-fourparts of the root and dried leaves,185

Powder
the soapparts alcohol,1,700 parts of water.
root and boil it in the water
15 minutes, then put in
the leaves cut up fine and
cold add

When

lukewarm.
and

rub up

for silk
Rinse

the stained

lather with

goods. May

well out
White

with

Stains

Usually, or
stain is smeared

oil

the alcohol.

Dip
a

boil 2 to 4 hours

be

upon

fluid is used

the hands.

appliedto

More

cold

or

especially

calico with

and

Varnished

iron

brush.

nearlydry.

Table-Tops.

often, these disappear if

with
slightly

containingsome

strain.

part of the fabric therein

cold water

least

at

The

and

the

oil,or better,with
turpentine.Dry powdered carany

1S4

of

bonate

in

powder

with

the whole

the spots and then

with

with

saturated

cloth

fine it

so

rubbed

afterward

kerosene.

first

Rub

top and wipe and polish

cloth.

dry

Iron-Rust
Iron

powder, saleratus,
won't scratch,may

fine

spots and

the

sprinkledover

be

CLEANING

AND

in
soda, or sal-soda,

lime

even

or

DTEIXG

THE

oxide

is soluble

Spots.

easih^,or

after

acid to 5 parts of water.

part muriatic

time, in

some

If the rust

an3i:hingthat is not attacked by

acid
OxaUc
acid,there is no simplermethod.
iron oxide, and as it
similar solvent powers
on

spot is upon

the
has
is

to
convenient
keep in the
dry substance, is more
house, but being poison,is unsafe where any child
to it. Iron
have access
can
or
person not responsible
treated with
be safelj^
white goods can
rust on
any

acid and

muriatic

the

acid rinsed

off well aftei-ward.

On

delicate-coloredthings,the rust usuallyacts upon

the

coloringcompomid also,and

be dissolved out

there is

even

if the rust

can

spot remaining. Dn.^ salt

justthe size of the spot

with the lemon
moisten
and
juice; it will slowly
Iron rust properlyapphed is a
dissolve the rust.
much
used for cotton buff
very permanent dye, and
be given to remove
and no fomiula can
(khakicolors),

and

lemon

it from
with

and

juice;lay the

all the many

salt

articles that

can

become

stained

taric
affairs of life. Two
parts of tardailj^
acid, 1 part powdered alum, laid on hke salt
in removing
rather more
lemon juice,
energetic
are

it in the

iron rust, and

not

destructive to fabrics.

To

Carpets have

Then

brush

and

badly faded,in

dyed, where

before
and

scrub
and

soap

Carpet.

First take

followmgmanner:
thoroughlyeither
apart.

Dye

been

185

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

up

after

or

rippingthe

it

wash

water,

the carpet and

with

driving any

not

beat

breadths

table

on

the

more

Let it become
through than can be avoided.
about half dry and make
up a dye in a basin of the
requiredcolor and, keeping it hot, scrub it into the
carpet as evenly and thoroughlyas possible. Do not,
however, trj^to get the full depth of color at once
going over the carpet, but go over it twice,and with
water

the brush
it

not

too

the

filled with

much

color,and get

evenly distributed as possible. It should not

be so soaked
with the dye liquoras to drain toward
one
edge after beinghung on a line in the shade to dry.
that part hanging lowest will become
or
overcharged
with the dye and be too dark to match
the rest.
as

To

Make

crayons.
on

let stand

where
over

not

Colored

solution of the

rightfor

about

pour

Make

Stand

use
as

as

many

10

Crayons.

dyeware

ink.

the solution of
about

School

as

Use
are

dyeware

minutes.

of

use.

school

common

in

needed
to

Place

the

cup

them,

cover

for about
they will keep warm
night. When dry they are fit for
absorbed
by the crayons
may

further

concentration

wet

12
use.

be

soft
and
and

crayons

hours,

or

The

dye

saved

for

186

Starches.

Colored
Use

little dye of the

starched

in the

article to

color of the

in which

water

effect is to

The

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

the

is boiled.

starch

finished

brighten the

be

work

very

materially.
To
is very

Wood

through, but

the

tedious

The

week

one.

and

thus

worked
in

veneers

24 hours
a

lot

texture

Veneers

operationis
veneers

good

deal

out.

are

of

dye
a

then

is very

are

soaked

pieces
dyed entirely
prolonged and
in water

for

is

matter

is to soak

the

of caustic soda

for

boil therein for J hour, whereby

comes

much

the

slimy extractive

fm'ther treatment

to

of stuff

where

very

10-per-centsolution

and

more

Wood.

difficult to

great thickness.

of any

are

Dye

out

softened

of the
and

wood,

rendered

and
as

the
near

approach to pure cellulose (the cotton fibre)as

can
readilybe arrived at. The dyeing operationsare
facilitated the more
thoroughlythis is done, but there
an

is

limit to which

it

can

be carried

on

account

of the

becoming brittle and tender when dry. The

is improved
qualityof the finished dyeing of veneers
by several intermediate
dryings during the dyeing
should
be dried in
operation,and, where possible,
the open
air. Some
soft
so
are
dyeings of veneers
and
that they must
disintegrated
finallybe dried
between
to
blotting-paperunder heavy^ pressure
retain their shape. The
well
are
prepared veneers
washed
before dyeing. The old method
of dyeing

veneers

1S8

DYEING

THE

Red

Bright
2 lbs.

Put

and

put in

draw

off the

nitric acid

with

the

the

bath, or

time

bath

the bath

to

lightand acids,and
Bright

and
lead
veneers

Yellow

where

nitric acid

the
ozs.

the

return

and

bath

must

and
to

veneers

boil
be

This red is

short

warmed

fast
fairly

Veneers.

and
are

the water

required

boil until the color

after 3

added

hours,

get the color through. Closed

to

and

wood

vats

are

best for

dyeing

nitric acid is used.

Orange

as

add

the alum

mix

gallonof

boil the veneers,

through;2 ozs.
help ver}^ much
pipesfor steam

the red and

Combine

the

as

finishes well.

berries 1 lb. per

to

veneers

It is well to lift the

through.

until it has struck

goes

and

gallonsof

in 4

many

to the veneers,

up

in which

as

liquorand

longer. Every day

Persian

dust

of nitric acid.

ozs.

or

veneers,

for Wood.

boil for 3 hours; then

liquorwill hold;
alum

Dye

Brazilwood

genuine

boilinghot;

water

CLEAXIXG

AXD

for Veneers.

yellowdyes,and

dye exactly

directed.
Blue

for Veneers.

indigoin strong solution and the veneers

allowed to steep
heated
to boilingoccasionallyand
mitil colored quite through. The
prepared veneers
best be quitedry, or at least two-thirds
dry when
well finally,
Rinse
to
or
put in the bath.
expose
Extract

of

TEXTILE

OF

the surface of the

Any

Any
2

of the
cent

per

If the

cUrect
soda

in alkaline solution

blacks,10

ash

and

is softened

wood

'^wooling"of

the tool may

under

veneers

dye

cotton

and

carbonization

fumes, or

ammonia

189

FABRICS.

20

cent

per

cent

per

and

will

well

result.

dye

of the

wood.

black,
salt.

common

prepared, 2 days'

cooking and steepingwill penetrate ^ of an inch of

ash (ingrain),or more
pounded
exactlybasket splints
from an ash log. If sawn
in sheets ^ inch they will
dye much sooner.
Red.
Ten
20

per

2 per
benzo-purpurine,

cent

per
cent

soda

cent

ash,

salt.

common

Yellow.
Ten

brightcotton
yellow,chrysamineG, 2 per cent
per cent

chinoline

yellow,as

any

soda

ash, 20

per cent

salt.

common

Blue.
Ten

per cent

benzo-azurine

G,

or

any

cotton

blue of

like character.

Green.
Five per cent benzo-azurine

G,

2 per

soda

cent

Gand

ash,20

5 per cent

per cent

common

mine
chrysasalt.

Purple.
This
of

is best with

logwood

prepared

wood

as

logwood, thus:
for black.

in the decoction

Prepare a

Boil

and

until well

tion
decoc-

steep the

penetrated.

190

Dissolve
alum

2 per

cent

the
lifting

veneers,

make

of the
add

and

in hot water

to

shade

veneers

bath

is to be therein.

bath.

fresh alum

the

weight of the
directlyto the

if the bath

of indigoextract
quantities
bath

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

after

wise
Other-

or

considerable

be added

to the alum

Traces

may

of

color if desired.

Purple.
Archil

in decoction

gallonof liquor
Can
is fairlyfast.

of J to 1 lb. per

and
good penetration,
with
saddened
and
with
be shaded
indigo extract
and blue vitriol for more
alum
for red, and copperas
shades.
and
sombre
brown
Simply soaking white
solution wnll give a silver-gray
in copperas
veneer

dyes

with

color without

of
previouspreparation

STAINING

the

wood.

WOOD.

altogetherdifferent process
and
requiresno preparation of
before the stain is applied. In preparing
the wood
the stain but little trouble is required,and generally
ing.
speaking its applicationdiffers but little from paintis
Staining wood
than
dyeing wood,

VThen

an

carefullydone

and

properly varnished,

is
and
staininghas a very beautiful appearance,
with injurythan japanning.
much
less likely
to meet
the market,
For any brightcolor the powder dyes upon
be used for this purpose.
without exception,
may
All are
not soluble in water, some
only in alcohol.
in gasoline,kerosene,
class are
soluble
Another
solution in oil and
The
benzine,oil,and varnish.

OF

is,however,
too stickyfor

varnish
remain

191

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

and
slow-drying,

very

furniture.

The

apt

to

solutions

water

raisingof the grain is no

sandpapering from raisingof the
objection. Where
grain is to be avoided,the oil-soluble colors dissolved
full black is desired,
Where
in gasolineare used.
a
the old logwood and copperas stain is as good as any.
as

are

good

the

Wash

as

any,

wood

over

three times

or

three
the

and

of

coats

let it

dry, with

of copperas

solution

with

Then

dry.
a

apply

two

two
or

of

logwood; wipe
damp sponge, and polish

strong decoction

wood, when

with

if the

linseed oil.

Permanent

Stain.

Brown-Colored

with a solution of cutch

paint the wood
The
(catechu or gambler) with 30 parts of water.
be dipped in the solution if small, and
article may
First

slats

for

screens

are

Venetian

darker

and

be added

more

frames

and

stained in this way.

blue vitriol may

a

blinds

to

A
the

of

littlesoda

window
ash and

and gives
solution,
This

red appearance.

is allowed

dry in the air,and the wood is then painted over,

or
dipped,with solution of bichromate of potash,1 part
The
bichromate
to 30 parts of water.
strength of
the solutions can
be varied, and
fustic,logwood,
archil.Brazilwood,etc.,decoctions added to
sumac,
suit the fancy. An
from the saw
extract
palmetto
the purpose
would
answer
admirably in place of
Neither cutch nor
cutch,in sections where it grows.
palmetto will fade from sunlight,especiallywhere
to

varnished.

Where

neither

oiled

nor

varnished

it

192

THE

"weathers"

as

fast

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

and

board

the

as

careful

which

wood,

stain upon

brown

permanent

ver}^

makes

in water

Permanganate-of-potashsolution

so.

more

no

assumes
washing, drying,and oiling,

after

reddish

pohshing.

tint upon

Beechwood
Dissolve

Mahogany.

aloes and

oz.

resin
dragon's-blood

ozs.

The wood
apply to the wood.
as
have
been completely surfaced pre^^ously,
must
it will not do to appl}^sandpaper after the stain is
be
more
yellow,the wood may
appUed. If wanted
less diluted nitric acid, and
with more
or
over
gone
in 1 quart alcohol and

smoothing

after

boil 1 lb.

the

up,

logwood chip,or

peel; boil again

vinegar.

Imitation

add

the

wood

nitrous acid.

One

in

f pint of

soda
and

to

are

the

process

the

wood

Pohsh

and

of
This

alcohol.
be mixed

Hquid in

This

is then
ounce

assumes
renew

surface

on

and
repeated,

with

appearance

cold-drawTi

of carbonate

oz.

the

of

liquidfiltered,

^^th
a

of

is dissolved

dragon'sblood
and

given the
is planed

solution

with

together and

the

be

may

rubbed

this state is laid

is to be

pint good

Mahogany.

wood
Any speciesof close-grained
The
of mahogany.
appearance

smooth,

of walnut

handfuls

strain, and

and

appUed, or
of logwood,

be

extract

ozs.

add

and

in 2 quarts of water

stain

above

soft brush.

short time
of

Unseed

after

mahogany.
oil.

OF

193

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

Imitation Rosewood.

logwood in 3 pintsof water until it

is a very dark red, and add J oz. of carbonate of
hot, stain the wood
potassa or soda. While boiling
that it is nearly
with two or three coats,taking care
dry after each coat; then with a stiff flat brush
give streaks with the black stain previously
given,
which, if carefully
executed, will be very nearly the
Boil i lb. of

Or the black streaks may

of rosewood.
appearance
and verdigris
be put in with a solution of copperas

in

decoction of logwood. A

purpose

be

may

made

out

of

brush

handy

for

the

flat varnish

brush;
the edge irregular

sharp points off and make

and you will have a^tool
by cuttingout a few hairs,
imitate the grain. Or stain
that will very closely
with the black stain,and when
dry go over it with
above dippedin the following
as
a brush made
liquor:
Strong nitric acid 1 pint,1 oz. grain tin,and salthe

cut

the

ammoniac

day

or

In the

fit for

use.

clothing.It
off and

course

Don't

Set

walnut.

with the cork

two

to time.

be

size of

and

out

of two

or

it aside for

shake it from time

three

days

get this liquidon

stains the hands

yellow that

stains the clothes in such

manner

it will

hands
must

or

wear

it cannot

be removed.

To

Imitate

Old

Mahogany.

happens that mahogany darkens by

frequently
Therefore in adding a patch of new
wood, it
age.
To obviate this
too
shows up much
light-colored.
It

13

194

DYEING

THE

difficulty
apply
water,
Have

do not

get the patch too dark;

alkali and

weak

use

liquid,soap lye,limecarbonate,ammonia.

soda

lime,

that you

care

therefore

alkaline

any

of

milk

or

CLEANING

AND

the process

with

work

it

to

up

by

peating
re-

graduallystronger solutions.

Cane-Staining.
Dissolve

few

sufficient water
of the

grainsof sulphateof
to

with

cane

it up.

take

hold

it,and

Moisten
it

over

in

manganese

the

the

surface

flame

of

spirit-lampclose enough to scorch it. By care the

be brought to a uniform
whole surface may
dark,
rich brown, or beautifully
variegatedby heatingsome
white
than others,thus varying from near
parts more
black.
The color appears
dull at first,
but
to almost
on
oiHng with linseed oil (raw) and rubbing with a
smooth
piece of hard wood it will be beautifully
other finish,
unless it
no
developed. Give the cane
be to give it another oiling
some
days after the first.
Dark
Boil

J lb. madder

of water;
hot

and

brush

then

liquid.When
of 2 drachms

Color.

Mahogany
2

the

of

ozs.

wood

dry,go over
pearlashin

logwood
well

quart of

gallon

with

over

the whole
1

in 1

with

the
tion
solu-

water.

Light Mahogany.
Brush
nitrous
a

over

the

1 oz., alcohol

when

of the

wood

with

diluted

dry apply the followingwith

soda
Dragon's blood 4 ozs., common
3 pints. Let it stand in a warm
place.

acid,and

soft brush:

surface

196

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

After thoroughly
continuouslybefore the fire and warm.
be shaded
by a brush, or the
dry, it may
feather dipped in solution of potash or soda.

Green.

pleasingstain for wood

If wanted, besides the very
except in specialcases.
numerous
green powder dyes on the market, you may
acetic acid),
3 pints strongest vinegar (or some
use
4 ozs.
best verdigris,
pounded fine,J oz. sap green,
Green

and

oz.

is not

natural

or

indigocannine.
IVORY.
To

Color

or

Dye

Ivory

or

Bone.

regardto the coloringof ivory,it may be said

that in generalthe colors penetrate better before the
Should
surface is polishedthan afterward.
any spots
be cleaned
by rubbing them
they may
up
appear,
with
chalk, after which the ivory should be dj^ed
to produce miiformity of shade.
On
once
more,
taking it out of the boiling-hotdye, it should be
With

into cold water

plungedat

once

of fissures

being caused

by

the

to

prevent the chance

heat.

Ivory

may

be

d3^edby any of the methods

emploj^ed for woollens,
dirt and
after being freed from
but more
grease,
qmckly as follows:
To

Dye

Ivory

Black.

beingwell washed in an alkaline lye,the ivory

is steeped in a weak
neutral solution of nitrate of
After

then

silver and

of ammonium

To

Dye

Ivory

Deep

ivory in

cleaned

for

time

some

and

the

with

tion
solu-

in dilute ammonia

in

nitric acid.

Four

Ivory

Dye

Red.

parts of picricacid, by weight,dissolved in

parts of

Dissolve
with

add

boilinghot;

water

parts ammonia.
alcohol,dilute
50

steep it in

of

piecestherein, having previously

water
just sour to the taste

clean

To

250

decoction

Red.

of cochineal

steepedthem

sulphide.

iron.

Ivory

Dye

infusion

immerse

then

and

and

Black.

strained

sulphateof

or

To
an

dried

Ught, or

sokition

of acetate

Make

the

to

weak

the

logwood

exposed

dipped into

Boil

197

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

375

cooling8

parts magenta in

parts of
As

parts of ammonia.

after

as

parts

(hot),and add

water

soon

45

the

red

color of

disappearedmix the two solutions.

Ivory and bone should be first steepedin very weak
in the
nitric or muriatic acid before being immersed
of picricacid and
solution
ammoniacal
magenta.
acid and magenta
of picric
By varyingthe proportions
be
bluish-red to brightorange
from
may
any shade

the

solution

obtained
has
some

has

; the colors do not

evaporated. When
gelatinesolution

red ink that will not

appear

to

is

the

ammoniacal

added, it

corrode

until the ammonia

may

steel pens.

solution

be used

as

19S

DYEING

THE

To

vat,

Dye

cleaned

Steep the

ivory in

the

first steep in ver"' weak

or

blue tint.

dyer'sgreen
muriatic

this to

20

color

Blue.

Ivory

minutes, and from

carmine, and keep it there
or

CLEANING

AXD

until it

acid for 15

bath

indigo

assumes

of
a

indigo

miiform

Then

phate
dry and polish.An}' acid blue,sulof indigo,or weak
decoction
of logwood will
ivory blue. For logwood the acid bath is not

necessar}^

nor

admissible.

violet steep the clean

For

ivoryin a very dilute solution

in the logwood bath.
AniUne

Dyes

of tin

for

crystalsand boil

Ivory.

Any of these colors give a fine and permanent color

to ivory by immersion
in their more
less strong
or
solutions,according to the depth of color wanted.
^Jake

from

it to

ver^^

the

ivor\^ may
all

strong solution in
vessel

dye

be shaded

with

small

vessel and

add

until dark

enough.

The

red,yellow,or

blue to meet

requirements.
To

Render

Ivory

Flexible.

Ivor}'is rendered flexible if immersed in a solution

of phosphoric acid, specificgravity 1.13, mitil it
or
loses,
loses,its opacity,when it is washed
partially
in clean
flexible
to

cold water
as

dried.

In this state

leather,but graduaUy

the air.
and

and

Immersion
softness

and

in hot

hardens

as

by

exposure
its elasticity
restores

water

pliancy.

it is

Or

put the ivory

to soak

In three

in 3

ozs.

or

four

199

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

nitric acid diluted with

days
To

the

ivory will

Harden

15

water.

ozs.

be soft.

Ivory.

If,after ivory has been softened,it is desired to

harden
it again, wrap
it in a sheet of white paper
with dry decrepitatedsalt and lay it by
and cover
its original
for 24 hours,when it will resume
hardness.
To
Dissolve
When

Ivory

Dye

in alcohol

the alcohol

color,plunge in

when

such

Softened.

color

is desired

as

to

use.

is

the

sufficiently
impregnated with the
ivory and let it remain until dyed

to suit.

To
and

Twenty-two
in

45f

solution
ozs.

well

of llj
Leave

water.

in pure

Bleach

water.

half
ozs.

Ivory.

ozs.

of

ivory.

of soda

carbonate

in this bath two

Next

Place

crystals,

days and

in

immerse

them

wash

solution

of

sulphateof soda in 45^ ozs. of water for five

six days, and add to the liquid,
or
yet containingthe
Cover
ivory,1 oz. muriatic acid and 5 J ozs. water.
and allow to remain
24 to 36 hours,and wash well in
cold water
and dry.
17

ozs.

To

Restore

Yellowed

Ivory

to its

Original

Whiteness.
A
over

thin lime
a

stove.

paste is prepared in
The

until white, when

pot

and

heated

ivory is placed in this and left

it is taken out, dried,and polished.

200

THE

DYEING

Bleach

To

CLEANING

AND

Ivory.

it with

finely
powdered pumice stone and water
while stillmoist, under
and expose
bell
to the sun
a
glasscovering,to prevent too rapid
glass,or some
and
desiccation
to
cracking. Observe
repeat the
Rub

imtil

process
may

effect

proper

also be bleached

by

is

produced. Ivory

immersion

for

short time

containingsulphurousacid,chloride of lime,
chlorine in solution,or by exposing to the fumes
or
diluted with air. In many
of burningsulphur,largely
cases, as with piano keys, that can't be removed,
and water, and the
the rubbing with pumice stone
cessful.
polishingprocess will be found at least partly sucin water

To

Polish

Ivory.

pieceof old felt hat

ivor\' if
will in a short time produce a fine gloss on
rubbed
er's
vigorouslyupon it; or set the ivory in a turnit to shape,rub
wheel and after ha\ing worked
until perfectly
with a paste of pumice stone and water
smooth; then heat it by holding a piece of linen
and nib it with
againstit,or a sheepskin,by friction,
whiting and olive oil. Next with diy whiting alone,
with a clean soft rag, and the ivory wiU
and finally
appear remarkably white and glossy.
Putty powder

and

Fluid

for

and

Marking

Ivory.

nitrate of silver,
2 parts; nitric

Take

water,

water

parts; mix.

acid,1 part;

for

Etching-Vamish
White

wax,

parts;

201

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

mastic, 2 parts; mix

of

tears

Ivory.

heat.

by

To
Cover

the

ivory to

varnish
etching-

of

it

upon

through

of nitrate
then

on

the

Pour

wax.

the

To
it in

Immerse

acid, and

while

Or immerse

in

in

yet damp

To
Immerse

the

of silver and
of silver has
to

water

the
soon

fresh

let it remain

given
bath

of

it

becomes

gold

short

time,
The

water.

the

ivory

or

in nitro-muriatic

hydrogen

to

expose

sulphateand

gas.

ward
after-

gold.

Ivory.
strong solution of nitrate

in the dark

until the nitrate

deep yellow

clear

to the direct rays

ivory becomes

of

of ferrous

Silver

ivory in

figures

Ivory.

of chloride of

solution

the

tion
strong solu-

a
a

hot

by

coating

sun.

Gild

solution

it

lines upon

solution

trace

over

wax

the

to

exposure

clean

it remain

Let

left in black

be

with

beeswax, then

or

it and

design will

Ivory.

etched

be

of silver.

remove

appear

Etch

water

of the

and

sun.

deep black,but

brilliant silver.

color.
expose

In about
on

Remove
under
3 hours

being rubbed

202

To

TMien

them

clean
in

in

the

out

get yellow

three

or

the

and

"^dth
wash

Then

and

place

water,

them

again

brush

them

several

soapy

dmg}'-lookmg,

or

water

them

wet

da3"s

sun.

and

soap

carvings,

sunshine;

clear

two

in

well

Ornaments.

Ivory

Clean

ivor}^ ornaments

wash

CI.EAXIXG

AXD

DYEING

THE

to

while

times

wet

for

day

still

keeping

and

they

them

will

be

beautifully white.

Artificial

for

Tablets

photographers'

albumen

or

bar5^a,
dried.

mixed

heav}^

The

most

to

be

in

chloroform,
it

with

alcohol

in

is

of

of

of

pale yellow

proportioned

recei\dng

well,
very

in

and

tough

of
to

sheets

ivory

the

desired

high polish.

is

seems

well

either
or

chalk,

density

finallj^subjecting
product

and

solution

powder,

lead, alumina,
the

of

sulphate

washing

next

fine

gelatine

(caoutchouc)

through

tint,

adding,

of

rubber

chlorine

barj^a, sulphate

tint, kneading
pressure.

unitation
India

of

into

compressed

dissolving
passing

made

are

finely-powdered

spar,

and

quantity

use

successful

by

until

sulphate

with

or

made

Ivory.

obtained,

to

or

heaAy
capable

204

THE

DYEING

AN'D

CLEANING

Purchase

St., Boston, Mass.; 10 Weybosset St.,

Pro\idence, R. I.; 196 ^yiichigan
St., Chicago,III.;416
St. Paul St., Montreal, Canada.
126

By. Farbenfabriken, vormals Fried. Bayer und Co.,

Ell^erfeld. Barmen,
Scheploh, Leverkusen, Germany;
Flers, France;
Farbenfabriken
X.

York,

Y.:

Pro\'idence.

Russia.
American
Moscow,
of Ell3erfeld Co., 117 Hudson

32

India

St.,Boston, Mass.;
N.

R. I.; 9-11

Water

agents,
St., New
Pine

St.,
St., Philadelphia,
Pa.;
27

E- Kinzie

Trust Building,
St.,Chicago, 111.;509-513
Charlotte, N. C; 14 Front St., East, Toronto, Canada.
133

Kalle

K.
530

Canal

Mass.;

37

Kip.

A.

N,

Y.;

"": Co.,

Inc., Biebrich-am-Rhein, Germany;

St., New
York, N. Y.; 145 Pearl St.,Boston,
Letitia St., Philadelphia,
Pa.
Co., 122 Peari St., New
St., Philadelphia,Pa.;

Klipstein k

50-52

N.

Front

Congress St.. Boston,

Mass.

136

2S3-2S5

Ivinzie St., Chicago, 111.;

St., Providence, R. I.;

North, Hamilton, Canada; 17 Lamoine
13

York,

Mathewson

24

Catherine

St.,
St., Montreal,

Canada.
Math.

York,

Cassella

Color

Co.,

1S2-1S4

Front

St., New

N.

Front
St., Philadelpliia,
Pa.;
Y.; 126-12S
dence,
68 Essex St.,Boston, Mass.; 64 Exchange Place, ProviR. I.; 47 N. Pry or St., Atlanta, Ga.; 86-88
Youville Square, Montreal, Canada.
Mz.

H.

A.

Metz

"

Co.,

122

Hudson

St., New

York,

0hverSt.,
Boston, Mass.: 104 Chestnut
Y.; 140-142
St., ProAidence,
St., Philadelohia, Pa.; 23 South Main
4 N. Clark St.,Chicago 111.; 210 Tyron St., CharPI;
k
1 "e,
X
C; Empire Building, Atlanta, Ga.; Dock
Brown
Sts., Newark, N. J.; 1025 Br"ant St., San
N.

"-co, Cal.:

:
_

St. Francois

Welhngton
Germany.

28-30

"

55

Xavier

St., Montreal,

St.,West, Toronto,

Canada.

dj'eware-makers and their agents is

from a complete one,
but is deemed
quite sufficient
the requirements of the users
of this book.
This

list of

far
for

Dyeing
For

be

may

more

by certain
following:
W

that

the

information
are

given

w^th

the

dyed in acetic-acid bath.

that wool is dyed in a neutral bath.
means
indicates that wool is dyed in a bath containing

G S

wool

is

salt.
that

means

sulphuricacid

is

wool

dyed

salt and

Glauber

with

in the bath.

indicates

G S Ch

in order

readilyfound, the dyeing methods

suggestive letters,in accordance

indicates

Glauber
W

Methods.

of space,

economy

205

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

that

is first dyed with

wool

Glauber

sulphuricacid in the bath, and the color then

developed with chrome (iDichromate of potash or soda).
A Ch means
that wool
is firet dyed with acetic acid
added
in the l^ath and chrome
to develop the color.
Ch indicates that chromed
(mordanted) wool is dyed
salt and

W
W

in the bath.

S A

silk is

that

means

in the

dyed

acidified with

bath

acetic acid.
S S

acid
C T

indicates
with

C D

dyed

in

bath

acidified with

phuric
sul-

dyestuffis

the

used

cotton

on

danted
mor-

tannin.
is

cotton

that

direct in the bath.

dyed

the color is
after

treatment

indicates

that

cotton

developed on
direct dyeing.
is dyed with

cotton

alum

by
and

salt.

Glauber
C W

that

indicates

subsequent

dyed

(oilof \itriol).

that

means

C Dv
C A

silk is

that

means

indicates
in

one

cotton

wool

mixed

goods (unions)

bath.
denotes

SULPHUR

and

one

of the

class of

sulphur dyes

requiringspecialtreatment.
These
further

extremely
reason

that

brief
the

cUrections

are

used

dye-manufacturers

the

themselves

prefer that

from

offices.

the foUow-

ins list.

specificdirections be obtained
Paste dyes are entirelyomitted
from

for

their

206

AXD

DYEING

THE

Dyestuffs,

CLEAIsING

Makers,

Acetopurpurine, SB
Acetylene

Blue. 6 B, 3 B,
Black

Alizarine

3 B. 3 Bex

Acid

R, A C, R H

Alizarine Black
Black

Alizarine

Kip

CD

Kip

CD

Alizarine

Black

Acid

Alizarine

Blue

Acid

Alizarine

Blue

G R

S Ch

Mz

G S Ch

Mz

Mz

G S Ch

Mz

G S Ch

Mz

G S Ch

Mz

G S Ch

(powder)
Acid

N, S E

CD

Mz
.

Acid

A
3 R

Blue

Acetylene Pure
Acid

Bx,

Methods.

and

T
B
S V

S Ch

Acid

Black

Blue

Alizarine

B. 3 B
.

Acid

Alizarine

B. B B, R H,

Brown

Mz

RP
Acid

Dark

Alizarine

Blue

S N
.

WGSCh

.Mz

G S Ch

Mz

G S Ch

Mz

G S Ch

Acid

Alizarine

Garnet

Acid

Alizarine

Graj^G

Acid

Alizarine Green

Mz

G S Ch

Acid

Alizarine Green

Mz

G S Ch

Acid

Alizarine

Mz

G S Ch

Acid

Alizarine Red

B.G

Mz

G S Ch

Acid

Alizarine

Violet

Mz

G S Ch

Acid

Alizarine

Yellow

Mz

G S Ch

Acid

Anthracine

Bv

G S Ch

By

G S Ch

Grenade

O, R C
Brown
T, G, R

Extra

Acid

Anthracine

Red

G, B B

AcidBlack

Mz

G S

Acid

Black

B E

Kip

G S

Acid

Black

5 B, S B, F L

By

G S

Acid

Black

C, 3 B L, T

Kip

G S

Acid

Blue

F S. 466, G S

Mz

G S

Acid

Blue

Black

By

G S

Acid

Brown

Math

G S

Acid Brown

G S

Acid

Brown

G S

Acid

Cerise

Mz

WG

S and

SS

Acid Cerise O, ii

Mz

WG

S and

SS

Acid

Chrome

3 B

Black

G, W

S, T C By

G S Ch

OF

Acid

TEXTILE

Brown

Chrome

Bs

WG

WGS
WGS
WGS
WGS
WGS

GF

AcidCyanineBR

By

AcidEosineG

Mz

Acid

Fuchsine

Mz, Bs, Kip

Acid

Fuchsine

Acid

Green

SB

By, Kip. WG
By

G B

Acid Green

Acid

Green

Cone

Acid

Green

Cone.

Acid

Green

B,

G, M, ii

Mz

WGS

EC

Mz

Acid Green

5 G

Math

Acid Green

Mz

Acid Green

M, 5-fold

Acid Green
Acid Green
Acid

WGS

Mz

Acid Green

Acid

SandSS
WGS
WGS

Mz

Cone.

D, B F, G, C D,

Cyanine B,

WGSCh

By

Acid Crimson
Acid

207

FABRICS.

G S and

WGS
G S and

.Mz

WGS

Mz

WGS

780

Math

WGS

Mz

WGS

cone

Indigo Blue
Magenta

S S

Mz, B, SS.

S S

WGSandSS
Acid
Acid
Acid

Magenta B
Magenta Crystals
Magenta O
Blue

Acid Marine

WGSandSS

Mz

Mz

WG

Math.

Acid
Acid

Ponceau
A

Acid Rosamine

WGS
WGS
Leather

Mz

WGS

Kip
Kip

WGS
WGS

Mz

pat

and

Acid Rubine

SB

WGS

Acid Rubine

B B R

Kip
Kip

WGS
WGS
WGS
WGS
WGS

AcidRuby
Acid Skv Blue

At

Acid Violet 3 B extra

B W

By

Acid Violet

BN,2BN

Acid Violet

4 B

By, A
B, Kip

extra

Acid Violet 4 B N

S S

3 R

AcidRhodamineR,

S and

WGSandSS

Mz

Methyl Violet S7B

Phosphine G O, B

G S andS

:
.

AcidMaroonO
Acid

Mz

WGS

WGS
...

S S

208

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

Acid Violet 4BS

Math

G S and

W
.

S S

Acid

Violet 4 B X

Bv

G S

Acid

Violet 5 B F. 5 B F I

Mz

G S

Acid Violet 5 B S

At

G S

Acid

Violet

Math

G S

Acid

Violet 6 B

A, Bv

G S

Acid

Violet 6 B F

Mz

G S

Acid

Violet 6 B I X

Mz

G S

Acid

Violet G B X

Kip. B

5 B X

S and

S S

G S

Mz

G S

Mz

G S

cone

Mz

G S

extra

Bv

G S

Bv

G S"

Acid Violet 3 R A. 3 R S

Mz

G S

Acid Violet 4R

Kip,

Acid

Mz

Violet 6 B S

Acid Violet 7 B

Mz.

Kip. B
WGSandSS

Acid Violet 7B
Acid

Violet X

Acid

Violet R

Acid Violet R
Acid

Violet 2 R

Acid Violet 4R

extra,

3 R

extra
.

WGS

B.
.

Mz

WGS

Mz

WGS

Acid

Violet 4 R

Acid

Violet S 7 B. S 4R

WGS

Acid

Violet ii

Mz

W^ G S

Acid

Yellow

Mz.

A.

Kip,
WGS

Math....
Acid

WGS

Mz. Math.

Cn-stals

Yellow

Acid

Yellow

AT

Math

WGS

Acid

Yellow

WGS

Acme

Brown

Math

Acme

Yellow

Mz

Acridine

Orange

Acridine

Oranse

O, R extra.

B. 2 B. 3 B

Mz

C T
C T

Scarlet R. 2 R. 3 R

Mz.

Acridine

Yellow

Mz

Red

Alizarine Anthrol
AUzarine

Astrol

Blue
B

X R

C T
C T

AcricUne

Argol

S A and

Mz

Red

C F. 3 G

SS

Acridine

Ar^ol Green

WGSand

Mz
.

Argol Blue

C T

S AandCT

By

Vat

Bv

Vat

By

Vat

Mz
Bv

WG

Ch

S, W

Ch

Alizarine Black

Bayer

209

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

B,

G,
By

GA

WGSCh

Math

4BR

Math

6 B

Math

4 B N

Alizarine Black

Alizarine Black
Alizarine Black
Alizarine Black
Alizarine Black

Math

Alizarine Black
AUzarine Black

Mz

Bs, Math

B,

Mz

B, C T

G S Ch
A

W
W

Ch

Ch

Alizarine Black S
Alizarine Black S R A

Mz,Math,B,

Ch

Ch

Alizarine Black

Math

Ch

extra, S W

Alizarine Black

Alizarine Black

Xextra

Blue

Black, 3 B,
W

B extra

By
Math

Alizarine Blue C S
D

B,

X,

N,

AUzarine

Blue

R,

R,

E, A, G

Alizarine Blue N G G (powder)

Alizarine Blue N S (powder)

R, R R
A

Alizarine BlueS

P,SKY,S

Mz

Ch

At

Ch

By

Ch

Ch

By

Ch

At

Ch

Mz

Ch

G S, W

Ch

Ch

Mz

Ch

By

WCh

EBy
W

AUzarine Blue

Ch

Blue O D R

Alizarine Blue

Ch

CD

4 R.Mz

Alizarine Blue G S
Alizarine Blue G W, J R

AUzarine

Ch

WCh

Mz
Blue D

Ch

W,

NX

AUzarine

Ch

CD

Mz
Blue

Ch

E,

DET,DG
Alizarine

Ch

A Ch

W
W
W
W
W
W

By

Blue B R 3 G

Alizarine Blue

B
Mz

Alizarine Blue Black

Alizarine Blue A SR
AUzarine

.B
.

Alizarine Blue A
AUzarine

G S Ch

B R

BlackT

AUzarine

(powder)
B W (powder)

AUzarine

Blue S

AUzarine

Blue Black

AUzarine

Bordeaux

Mz

Ch

AUzarine

Bordeaux

G, G G

By

Ch

14

B,

3 B

210

CLEANING

AXD

DYEING

THE

Mz, B3',B

Alizarine Brown
Alizarine Brown

AS

Alizarine Brown

Alizarine

Brown

Kip
G. D

G,

Alizarine Bro'wn

Alizarine Brown

Alizarine Brown

Ch
CD

3
Mz

CD

M, D R, D X. .Mz

CD

G0,D3GI
D

Ch

B. D B D, D D Mz

Alizarine Brown

W
.

^Iz

Ch

.By

Ch

O, D R

At

Ch

Alizarine Bro^Ti

(powder)

Mz, Bv.

Ch

Alizarine Brown

O.

Ch

Alizarine Brown

R B

By

Ch

Alizarine Brown

SO

Ch

Alizarine Brown

By

Ch

Bv

Ch

W, A T

...

F, X, R

Alizarine

R.

Cvanine

R,

Blue

D,

G S Ch
W

Ch

Ch

R,
Mz

3R

Alizarine Dark
Alizarine D

Blue

G, G I
G

Alizarine Emeraldole

Alizarine Fast Blat-k S P

B D

Alizarine Fuchsine

Ch

Ch

By
(powder) Bv
By
A

Alizarine Green

CSS

By

Alizarine Green

C E

Green

CD

Mz

Alizarine

(powder),C

G S
W

W
.

Ch

Ch

and

G S

Ch

S, W

Ch

Ch

G,
Bv

C K

Ch

By
Blue

Dark

Alizarine

S, W

R,

R A extra
Alizarine Dark

By
By

3 G

C^'anineGreen

CD

Mz

BD,DG....

Alizarine Coelestol R
Alizarine

.".

Mz.

Blue B, G

Alizarine Carmine
Alizarine Claret

X,

Alizarine Green

DW

Alizarine Green

Alizarine Green

S E

Mz. B

Ch

Alizarine Green

S Pat

Math

Ch

Mz

Ch

Alizarine Grenat

Alizarine

Indigo DO

Mz

Alizarine

Irisol R

Bv

AliayineLanacylBlueBB,3B.

.Math

A Ch

CD
W

S, W

Ch

Ch

212

THE

Alkali Blue

DYEING

CLEANT:NG

AND

B. 2 B, 3 B, 4 B, 5 B,

6 B, 7 B. B

B R. R

^^j^,^
Mz

extra.

cone,

Alkali Blue

Ithe
jand

B, 2 B. 3 B, 4 B. 5 B,

6 B. 6 B 90 per cent.

6 B

100 per

cent.R.2R,3R...
Alkali Blue

Alkali Brown

bath
devel-

^^^^oid

Math

^..^^

sal-soda in

Bs

AlkaU

Green

Alkah

Fast Red

B, G, 3 B

B, G

CD

By

G S

Mz

G S
with

AlkaHRed
Alkali RedBR

Bs

Dye

Mz

g^j'^^JI

Alkali Violet C A

Knd

Alkali Violet R

Bv

op

Bs

J acid.

Alkali Yellow
Alsace

R
M

B, B B,

Brown

develwith

R, L L,
CD

At

Mz, Math.

Amaranth

S S
.

Amaranth

Math

Amaranth

E,0

Mz

Amine

Black

Amido

Acid

L,

Amido

4 B, S 4 B, 6 B. 10 B

Black

B,

Black

Red

Naphthol

G S

G S
W

B,

Bex,

6B,S,R
Amido

S, S S
WGS,SS

Mz

10 B

Naphthol

B,

L G

Black

Amido

B,

B, G

Mz

WGS

Mz

WGS

AniUne

Green

Math

Aniline

Oran2;e

Math

Aniline

Yellow

Anthra

AHzarine

G S, C T
C T

CD

Math

NT
Bordeaux

At

Ch

Ant lira AHzarine

Carmoisine

At

Ch

Antlii-a AUzarine

Green

C G

At

Ch

At

A Ch

At

Anthi-a

Alizarine Red

Antln-a AUzarine
Antliracine

Acid

Anthracine

Acid

Yellow
Black
Black

G
C
L

W,

Math
Acid

Brown

Anthi-acine

Blue

G S Ch

B, G, N,
SA

Math.WGS,WCh.

R.SWpat.V
C

Ch

S F,

S T, S W
Anthracine

Kip

Ch

Math

Ch

TEXTILE

OF

Blue

Anthracine

R, S W

G, W

S, S W
Black

Blue

Anthracine

Chrome

E, P F B

B,

F,

Math

G S Ch

Math

G S Ch

G S Ch

B, F,
Math

(FR,)

Math

Ch

Math

Ch

Math

Ch

^'iolet BR,..

Math

Ch

Ch

B. B

Ch

Anthracine

Chrome

Blue

Anthracine

Chrome

Green

Anthracine

Chrome

Red

Anthracine

Chrome

Anthracine

Dark

Anthracine

Green

Anthracine

Red

Anthracine

D,SWN

Blue

Cormaline

or

By, Kip
B

Yellow
Black

BR

L, F

L, D

Anthracyanine

Math

WGS,WCh

Math

Math

Brown

Green

G, G

Archil Substitute

G Powder

G, O, I, II

Auramine

S, W

G S Ch
WGS

Math

WGS

Mz

WGS

cone

WGS

Mz.

By
By
Kip, Mz,

Math,

1,2, 3, 4

Atlas Scarlet
Auracine

Ch
G S Ch

Powder

Archil Extract

Violet

Archil Substitute

B.

extra

Ch

S R

Blue

Anthraquinone
Anthraquinone
Anthraquinone

At

Yellow

Anthramiue

WCh

WGS,

By
Anthracine

G S

L,

3FL

Anthragallolor

G S

...

N, C, G G,

R
Anthracite

Ch

B,

extra

Blue

Black

Chrome

Anthracine

X, W

G G extra

Anthracine

213

FABRICS.

WGS
C T
W

G, C

SS

Aurantia

Aureoline

Kip

CD

Aurophenine
Aurophosphine

Mz

CD

SA

Mz

CT

Azindon

BlueG, R

Azin

Green

Azo

Acid

3 B

G O, B O. T O
Black B. B L,

L, R,

extra

Mz

No. 2 extra, S S, S S cone

Azo Acid Blue B, 3 B cone,

S, C

G, G L,

cone,

Mz
3B0Mz

WGS
WGS

214

Azo

AcidBrow-n

Azo

Acid Carmine

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

By

Mz

WGS

Mz

WGS

Mz

WGS

Mz

WGS

Bs

WGS

By
By

WGS
WGS

WGS

W^ G S

AzoAcidFiichsineB,G
Azo

Acid

Magenta B, G,

cone,

cone

B. B A, 5 B

Azo

Acid Red

Azo

Acid

Paibv

Azo

Acid

Violet A L. 2 A B

Azo

Acid

Molet

Azo

Archil R

Azo

Benzol

Azo

Black

Azo

Blue

G S

2 B

R extra, 4 R

Fast Crimson

Mz

Azo

BordeaiLX

Mz, Bv,
By

Azo

Brown

Bs, Math

Azo

Brown

Azo

Carmine

Azo

G S, S S

CD
.

Mz

WGS
WGS
WGS

WGS

Cardinal G

WGS

WGS

AzoCoccine2R
AzoCochineal

WGS

By

WGS

AzoCoralline

Bs

WGS
WGS

Azo

O, V

Coccine

Cloth

or

Red,

Tro-

paeoline0000

Azo

Crimson

Azo

Eosine

By
By

Azo

Flavine

Bs, B

Azophone
Azophone

L, S

Black

B, G
B, G, G N, S

Green

WGS
W

S, S S

At

CD

At

CD

Bv

WGS

By

Bv

WGS

Blue 3 B, G

Math

WGS

Dark

Blue R

Math

WGS

3 B

Math

WGS

Azo

Fuchsine

Azo

Green

Azo

Grenadine

Azo

Merino

Azo

Merino

Azo

Naw

Blue

B,

Kip

AzoOranireR

Ch

CD

Azo

Orseiile
B B

Math

WGS

Azo

Orseiile R

W^ G S

Azo

Patent

WGS

By

WGS

Black, 3

3BKN

Azophloxine 2

K,

4 B

K,

215

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OP

Azo

Rubine

Math

G S

Azo

Rubine

S G

G S

Azo

Ruby S, 2

G S

Azo

Violet

Azo

Wool

Azo

Yellow

Azo

Yellow

cone

Mz

Azo

Yellow

Kip

Azo

Yellow

OR

Mz

WGS,SS

Pink

G,

Black

Benzo

Black

Blue

Benzo

Black

Brown

Benzo

Blue

Benzo

Bordeaux

Benzo

Brown

G,

G, R

G,

C,

R, R

Black

Benzo

Chrome

Black

Blue

Benzo

Chrome

Brown

B,

Benzo
Benzo

Dark

Benzo

Fast Black

B, B

Green

Benzo
Benzo

Fast

Gray

Benzo

Fast

Orange S

Benzo

Fast Pink

5 R
.

2 B L

Red

L, G

Scarlet 4 B

5BS
Benzo

Fast Violet

Benzo

Fast Yellow

Benzo

Gray

Benzo

Green

Benzo

Indigo Blue

G, C

R, N
5 G L

CD
CD
.

By
By

CD

By
By
By

CD

L, F

By
By
By
.By
By
By
By
By
By

CD

CD
CD
CD
CD
CD
CD
CD
CD

CD
CD

CD

C,

By

9BL

CD
.

S, 5 G,

B, G G.

B, G
Fast Blue B, Bn G,

G S, C T
W G S

B,

R,3R

Copper Blue B, 2 B
Cyanine B, 3 B, R

S, S S

CD

B
B

G S

Bv

6 B

Chrome

Fast

B, B B, 3 B, B X

Benzo

Fast

By
Mz,By....
Mz, By

MC

Benzo

S S

Mz, A.

3 R

G, R,

G S

...

Kip
Kip

B, S

Benzo

Benzo

Mz, Kip

Math

B, S E,

Blue

Benzoazurine

Benzo

CD

Mz, A, By

Basel Blue

Bengal

CD

S, 8 B S,

By
By
By
By
By
By

CD
CD
CD
CD
CD
CD

216

BenzoNitrolBrownG,

Orange R
Benzopurpurine B, 4 B, 6 B,
Benzopurpurine 4 Bex cone
Benzopurpurine 4 B double
Benzo

Benzo

Red

Benzo

Rhodamine

Benzo

Rhoduline

Benzo

Sky

G,

Benzyl
Benzyl
Benzyl
Benzyl
Benzyl
Benzyl
Benzyl

10

12 B

3 B

Red

B,

3 B

extra

Black

Acid
Black

B,

4 B

BlueS
Bordeaux
Blue

Green

G, B

Violet

B,

10

B,

5BN
Bismarck

CD

A, By
B.Mz, By, A

CD
CD
.

Mz

CD

Mz

CD

By
By
By

CD
CD
CD
CD

A
.

CD

By
Kip
Kip
Kip
Kip
Kip
Kip
B,
Kip

Brown

Black

Brown

Blue

Black

Blue

Black

R,

BlueBS
Blue

for Silk

Blue

Green

Blue

Red

Blue

Blue

2111

Body

Shade
Shade

G S

G S

G S

C T
.

5 G

Math

CT

Mz

C T
S

Mz

G S

S, W

WGS

Kip

WGS

Math

WGS

Math

WGS
WG

Mz
.

Mz
.

Mz

WG

Mz
.

Bordeaux

B L

Math

Bordeaux

BX

By

Bordeaux

C O V

Bordeaux

D H

Kip

S, S S, C T
G S, S S, C T
W G S, S S
CD

At
O

G S

C T

cone

Blue

R, Y Rex

O, Black Blue O

Black

B, G, T
Kip
E E, F F G, G G,

YS8049
Bismarck

G S

others
.

Bismarck

WGS
and

Brown

G S

A, Math, B,

Brown

Bismarck

WGS

Berlin Blue

CD

Mz, By,

Blue

Violet R

Benzo

B,

10

CLEANING

N,2R....By
By

Olive extra

Benzo

AND

DYEING

THE

S, S S, C T
G S, S S, C T
WGS
CD
WGS

Bordeaux

Diamine

Bordeaux

extra

Bordeaux
Bordeaux

By
Bs, By

Green

6B

Brilliant Alizarine R R, 5 R
Brilliant Alizarine Blue D,

E M

Brilliant Alizarine Blue

Brilliant Azurine

5 G

Brilliant Azurine

B, R

Brilliant Black

F
....

CD

By
By

WGS

By

Mz

WCh

Bordeaux

Brilliant Carmoisin

Brilliant Cochineal

CD

Ch

Ch
CD

CD

WGS
WGS
WGS
CD
.

C T
W

Mz

Blue

By

...

B,0,N

Brilliant Crocein

Ch

CD

Mz, A, By
Greenish

Ch

Math

4 R

Brilhant Congo G, R
Brilliant Crimson

G S

Mz, B

Blue

By

Brilliant Cotton

G S
CD

Mz, A, By
A, By

R,

Mz

By
By

Green

Brilliant Benzo

3 G

Cyanine G,

Brilliant Alizarine Vividine

G S

Brilliant Alizarine Bordeaux

Brilliant Alizarine

G, R,

powder

BriUiant

Bright Bkie extra

Bright YellowT

3 R

CD

Math

B, S

extra

Brilliant Acid

217

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

G S, C T

low
Yel-

and

Mz....WGS,SS,CA
Brilliant Crocein

Mz,
Math

Crocein

BOO

Brilliant Crocein

MOO

Brilliant

Cyanine

By,

and

WGS,SS
WGS
WGS

Math

Blue

By

R, R

cone

Brilliant Lake Scarlet G, R, 2 R

Brilliant OrangeG, O. R
BriUiant Orcelline pat

Ch

Mz

CD

Bs

CD

Kip
By

C T

Brilliant Direct Navy Blue

Brilliant Firn Blue
Brilliant Geranine Blue 3 B, B
.

G S, S S

'

Math
.

Brilliant Dianil Red

Mz

Brilliant Crocein B, B B
Brilliant Crocein 3B
BriUiant

WGS

Math

CD
G S, S S

Mz

Mz, A

WGS,'sS

Math

WG

218

CLEANING

AXD

DYEING

THE

OrseilleC

BrilUant

Math

G S

G S

Brilliant Ponceau

4 R

By

Brilliant Ponceau

5R

Bs,

By,
WGS

Math

CD

Brilliant Purpurine 10 B

Brilliant

Mz, A, By

PurpurineR

WGS

Kip

Brilliant Red

CD
.

Mz

Brilliant Rubine

Brilliant Scarlet

G, G G, R, R R,

WGS

Math

3 R, 4 R. 6 R, T

S, S S

BrilUant

Sk^' BlueG

Bs

CD

Brilliant

Sky Blue G, 5 G
Sulphon Azurine
Sulphon Red B

Bv

CD

Bv

CD

Brilliant
Brilliant

Blue

Wool

Brilliant

By

G A (acetic)

extra, G

Mz, By, A

Brilliant Yellow

WG

SS,

Bv

extra

G S, S S

S, S S

Math

CD

Math

CD

Campanuline

CD

Carbozol

CD

Kip

CD

Brilliant Yellow
Bronze

Diamine

Cachou

Diamine
Yellow

E R, R

O, E,

S, S E, S O

extra.

B, B

Black

Carbon

O, R,

Black

Carbide

D, B

W,

4 B,

WGS

Mz

GAT
and

Carmoisin

Carmoisin

.A, Bv, B

cone.

WGS
.

Klp.\

WGS

Blue T G

Bv

WGS

Cashmere

Bro^-n

Bv

WGS

Cashmere

Green

By

WGS

Cashmere

Black

Cashmere

B, 6 B, T

Mz

Cerise

1p

Math, B.WG,SA,CT
Chestnut

Chicago

Brown
Blue

B, 4 B, 6

4R.RW
China

B, R,

CD

CD

R,
Mz, A, Bv

Blue

WGS,SS,CT
Chinoline

WGS

Bv, Mz. B

Yellow

Chloramine

Brown

C G

By...

CD

220

DYEIXG

THE

Chrj'SoidineG
ChiysoidineY,

CLEAXiXG

AND

Kip
Y Y

WN,S

A,CT

Mz, Math.
.

WX,SA,CT
Brown
Chrj'soidine

Math

WX.SA.CT
R
Chi'vsphenine
G
Chiysopliinine
ChiTsophenine cone,

Mz, A. Bv

Mz

and

extra

Mz

Citronine

Mz.

Red

B. 3

Cloth Blue

Kip

...

Mz

Mz
.

Reddish

BrowTi,

and

G S

S, S S, C

lowish.
Yel-

."

WCh

Mz. Bv....

Cloth

^yCh,CD
W G S, S S

B, G, G R, R, B

O, S

extra.

Cloth

Ch, C D
Ch, C D

cone

Claret

W
.

Orange

Mz,

CIothRed

Bv.

Ch

...

Mz

WCh
W

Ch

Ch

Bv

Ch

Bv

Ch

A.

Ch

ClothRedO

Mz

WCh

ClothRedR

Bs

WCh

Coccme

Mz

WGS

WGS

By
Kip

WGS

Cloth Red

Mz, Bv, Bs

Cloth Red

B A

A.

...*'....
.

Cloth Red

3 B extra

Cloth Red

G, G extra, 3 G extra
G A, 3 G A

Cloth Red

2 B

CoecuiinB
Cochmeal

Red

Cochmeal

Scarlet PS

Cochmeal

Substitute

Coelestine

Blue

CoerulemeA.B.
Coeruleine

G S

WGS
C T

Bv

S. BWR

WCh

Mz

S Powder

v
,

Klp.B.'.

WCh

CoeruleineS
Cold Black
Columbia

Powder

Mz, Bv.

BR
Black

B. B

B. F

Black

strong, F 2 B, 2 B
E A extra, W

A extra

Ch

CD

CD

CD

B, R.

FF

Columbia

W
.

extra.

X, 2 B

W,

OP

TEXTILE

Columbia

Black

Green

Columbia

Black

Blue

Columbia

221

FABRICS.

CD

CD

Blue G R

CD

Columbia

Bordeaux

CD

Columbia

Brown

CD

Columbia

Chrome

B B

CD

Columbia

Fast Black

V extra

CD

Columbia

Fast Blue

CD

CD

CD

Columbia

R,

Black

Fast

2 G

Red

and

Fast

Scarlet 4 B
Columbia

Green

Columbia

Red

Columbia

Yellow

Concentrated
1
,

B,

B, 4B,

2B.A

CD
A

Cotton

Blue

R,

R,

2, 3, 4 B

Congo
Congo BB,GR
Congo Blue

CD

Mz

W
.

A, By
B

G S, S S, C A L
W N, C D

A, By

CD

CD

CD

A, By

CD

CD

A, By

CD

CD

X, R, 2 B, 3 B,

2BX

Congo Brown G,R

Congo Corinth B,G
Congo Fast Blue B,
CongoGR
Congo Orange G, R
Congo Red

Mz, Kip,

By,
Congo Rubine and Violet
Copper Black S, B, B extra

A....

CD

CD

Mz

G S

Cotton

Bordeaux

CD

Cotton

Brown

CD

Cotton

Brown

Math

CD

Cotton

Brown

R, G

CD

Cotton

Green

CD

Cotton

Orange G, R

CD

Cotton

Red

4 B

CD

Cotton

Scarlet

CD

Cotton

Scarlet O

Mz

CD

Cotton

Scarlet Yellowish

Math

Cotton

Yellow

C G

G,GB,R
Cresotine Yellow G, R

Mz, A, By

S A, C T
CD
CD
.

222

DYEING

THE

Criterion Blue

CLEANING

AND

Croceine

Scariet 3 B

Croeeine

Scarlet 7 B. S B. 10 B

Bv

G S

G S. C D

Bv
.

Crow

At

G S

Black

Mz. B

Cn-stal Scarlet 6 R

CD

Mz, Math.

G S, S S

Cn-stal Violet 5 B 0

Kip

Cn-stal Violet 0

Mz, B

N. S A

By

N, S A

CiystalViolet
Ciircumine
Cutch
Cvanine

D, G

Mz

!WG,SA,CT
W

Mz

G S. S S

Math

G S

Math

G S

CvanoleGreenB.CG,6G

Math

WGS

Dark

Brown

Mz

Dark

Green

Cvanol

B B. F

extra.

Cvanole

F, C

CT

X, SS,

C D

Mz, A, Bv

S. S extra

Brown

Fast Green
M. M

G
B

Diamine

A
Mz

By

Black B. B B pat
Blue 54. 55. R. R

Azo

Azo

Math
.

R
Math

pat
Diamine

Benzol

Diamine

Black

G, SA, C

Deep Wool Black 2 B. 3 B

Delphine Blue B. B cone
Delia Purpurine 5 B. 7 B.
Diamine

0. B X. R

Math

Blue G. R
B. B H.
M

W.

0. H

Math

Diamine

Black

Blue

B. Green

Diamine

Blue

B.

B. 3 B. B

Math

X.

G,

BX,C4B.6G.C4R.LG.C2
R,LR.XC.

W.

3R.SRX.

50. 52. 53. 55. A B. A Z

Diamine

Blue

Black

E. 72529.

Diamine

Bordeaux

B. S

Brilliant

Blue

G.

CD

Math

CD

Math

CD

Math

CD
CD

R.

RL
Diamine

Math

Bor-

deaiLx R. Scariet S
Diamine

Bronze

B. C. S F

Math

Diamine

Brown

B. G

O.

Q Q. V.

Diamine

G. 3 G. M.

31. 32. 34. 35. 36, 37. Math

Catechine

Catechu, Cutch.

CD

B, G pat.,3 G.
Math

CD

TEXTILE

OF

Cyanine B,

Diamine
Blue

FABRICS.

Dark

B, R,

B. R
Dark

Diamine

Dark

Deep

Fast Black

Blue

Blue

CD

Math

CD

Math

CD

Math

CD

B, R,

Fast

Diamine

Math
Blue

Green, Deep

RB
Diamine

C, F

B,

FFG,G

G, Fast Red
F, Fast Scarlet B B, 4 B, G B,
Math
G G, 4 B N, 6 B S, 8 B N
Fast Yellow
Diamine
A, A R, B,
Math
F F, M, 3 G
Diamine
Gold, Gold Yellow, Gray
G, Green B, G, C L, Heliotrope
Fast

Diamine

Brown

MillingBlack

Diamine

B,

Jet Black

R, O O,

B, S E, S 000, J E I
Diamine
New
Blue G, P, R
Black

Nitrazol

Diamine

Nitrazo, Brown

B,

Orange D,

No.

Red

B,

B,

10

Rose

Scarlet

Diamine

Sky

Diamineral
Dianil

CD

Math

CD

Math

CD

Math......

CD

Math

CD

D, B extra, B G,
B,

Blue

Violet

Math

CD

Math

CD

Math

CD

Math

CD

Math

CD

.Math

CD

3 B
F

F, Steel

Blue

Diamine

CD

Math

GD,GGN
Diamine

Math

B, D,

72732

Diamine

CD

C, G, G C,

R,B
Diamine

Math

D,

T,G,RD
Diamine

CD

D,

Diamine

CD

extra

Diamine

223

N, Violet Red.

Black, Blue. Brown

Brilliant Black

B, G,

R,2R
Dianil Brilliant Yellow

G,
Mz

CD

Mz

CD

Dianil Brown

B, B D, B H

Mz

CD

Dianil Brown

Mz

CD

224

THE

Dianil Brown

G,

DYEING

3 G

G,

CLEANING

AND

O,

3 G

I,
Mz

3GA
Dianil Brown
Dianil Brown

M,
R,

Dianil Brown

Dianil

Mz

Mz

3 R

Mz

Chrome

Mz

G, R

Brown

Mz

Dianil Claret

B, G
Dianil Crimson
B, G
Dianil Dark Blue R, 3 R
Dianil Dark Green B, X, X
Dianil
cone,

Black

Deep
T

Mz
Mz

cone,

cone,

Mz

cone

extra

cone

Green

Mz

CD

Mz

CD

Mz

CD

Mz

CD

Mz

CD

Mz

CD

Mz

CD

Dianil Fast Scarlet 8 B S

Dianil

CD

Dianil Direct Yellow

Dianil Fast Red

Mz

G, B,

N,

N,

GN

Indi2;oO
Dianil Oran2;e F, G, O,

Dianil

Dianil Pink

B M

BD

B, 6 B
Dianil Scarlet G, 2 R

Mz

'CD

Mz

CD

Dianil Violet H

Mz

CD

Dianil Red

Dianil

Yellow

G,

G, R, O

MB
R

DiazethylBlackB,

B R

O,
Mz

CD

By

CD

CD

Diazine

Black

Diazine

Brown

CD

Diazine

Green

CD

Diazine

Black

CD

Bs

CD

Bs

CD

Bs

CD

Mz

CD

CD

Kip

CD

Diazyl Black
Diazyl Brown G, T
Dimethyl Orange
Diphenylamine Blue
Direct Black

BFG

Direct Black

G B N

Direct Black

Bs

CD

Direct Black

B K

Kip

CD

Direct Black

Bs

CD

R,

"

TEXTILE

OF

Direct Black

225

FABRICS.

At

CD

Direct BlueB

Mz, K, Kip.

C D

Direct Blue 3BN

CD

Direct Blue G R

Mz

CD

Direct Blue

Mz

CD

By

CD

Mz

CD

B B
Direct Brown
Direct BrownGG

Bs

CD

By

CD

Direct Brown

G X

Bs

CD

Direct Brown

Kip

CD

Direct Brown

NX

Bs

CD

Mz

CD

Kip

CD

No. 5062

Direct Blue Black

2 B

Direct Brilliant Blue

B M

Direct BrownTB

S, T S B

Direct Brown

Direct Brown

V X

Bs

CD

Direct Dark

Green

Mz

CD

Direct

Black

By

CD

At

CD

By
Kip
Kip
Kip

CD

Deep

E extra, R

Direct

Deep

Direct Fast
Direct
Direct

E, R, R W, T,

extra

Red

B, G G

Brown

Gray B
Gray Reddish

Direct Green

C P

CD
CD
CD

Direct Green

Mz

CD
CD

Direct Green

Kip
Kip
Kip

CD

At

CD
CD
CD

C, C B
Direct Green P, A
Direct
Direct

IndigoBlue A, B
Indigo Blue RB
IndigoBlue B K

CD

Direct Lemon

Yellow

Kip
Kip

Direct

Orange

2 R

CD

Direct

Safranine B

By

CD

At

CD

CD

Direct Scarlet G

CD

Direct Scarlet R

CD

Direct Yellow
Direct Yellow

C P

Kip

CD

BSR,BLR

At

CD

Kip

CD

Direct

Direct Salmon
Direct Scarlet B

cone

Direct YellowT

DischargeBlack
15

A F

Mz

WG

S, SS

226

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AXD

Double

Brilliant Scarlet 3 R

Bv

G S

Double

Green

G S

Double

Ponceau

.By

G S

DoubleScarlet

G S

Double

G S

S F
2

R,

3 R, 4R.
.

Scarlet extras
Black

Ebony

ElgeneBaseB
Emerald

CD

CD

B, B. By

Crv^st

Green

Kip
.

WG,SA,CT
ErminRed

Black

Empire

B, G

G S
A Ch

Eosine2A,AG,A6G

Mz

WA.SA

Eosine

B. B

Kip

A. S A

Eosine

SB

Mz

A, S A

Eosine

10 B, B

Math

A, S A

Eosine

A, S A

Eosine

B
F

Math, B.

Eosine

Eosine

Extra,

H. D H V

Extra

Yellow.

Extra
cone.

Extra

EosineG

Kip

WA.SA

Mz

A, S A

Math

Math

A. S A
A, S A

low,
Yel-

B B, A

G, A 3 G, A 5 G, D
Eosine

A. S A

G B. G G F, G G G

Eosine

WA.SA

Eosine

3 J, 4 J extra

Mz

Eosine

JJF

Math

WA.SA

Eosine

A, S A

Eosine

2110, 5765

Math

A. S A

Eosine

Scarlet B

Mz, Math.

A, S A

A, S A

Eosine

Scarlet B B extra

Erika B, B N. B
Erika G. G ex

A. S A

Mz

CD

CD

Erika3GN,2GN

CD

Enshrine

Eni:hrine

ex

G S
S A

Eri^hrosine

Mz.

A
Er}i:hrosine

Ers^hrosine

cone,

pure

AG

Er^^hrosineB, B B
Yellow
Er}i:hrosine

Shade

foods

Mz

Mz

Mz, Math.

228
Fast Brown
Fast Cotton

Orange

6 R

Fast Cotton

Yellow

10 G

Fast Direct Brown

Fast
Fast
Fast

B,

FumngBlueR R
Gray BR
O
Green Cr}'stals

Fast Green

Extra, Extra

Fast Green

B. C R

Fast

A R

Bluish

Green

C T

G, S A,

Mz

G S

Mz

Yellow

Fast Diamine

CD

Bs

extra

Blue

WGS,SS

Mz

G S

25

Fast Claret Red

Fast Dark

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

Bs

CD

Bs

CD

Bs

CD

Kip

WCh

Mz

WCh

By
By

G S

G S

Math

Ch

Fast Green

C R

Bs

Fast Green

M, S S

By

G S

G S

By
By

G S

G S

Fast
Fast
Fast

Light Green
Light Oran2:e G
Light YelloVG,

Fast Pink
Fast Red
Fast Red
Fast Red
Fast Red

G,

3 G

Blue. BR

Fast Mordant
Fast Mordant
Fast Navv
Fast Pink

Ch, W

Mz
.

G S Ch

By

G S

G S

At

G S

for Silk

Kip

Yellow

Blue M

CD
.

B T

.'
By, Kip

C.D,E

Bs

By

Fast

Red

E, B

Fast

Red

Fast Red

WGS
WGS

B.

A. B

G S

A, Bv, B

WGS
G S, S S
G S, S S
WGS

Mz
W

G S, S S
WGS

Fast Red R R. R Y
Fast Scarlet B
Fast Silk Gray O

Mz

Fast Violet

Kip

WCh

Fast Violet B
Fast Violet Bluish. RedcUsh

Mz

By

WGS

WGS

Bv

WGS

Fast Wool

Blue

Fast Wool

BlueR

A
L

By, Math,

Fast Yellow

Fast Yellow

Greenish

Bs

SS

B.

WGS

WGS

Ch

TEXTILE

OF

229

FABRICS.

Fast YellowR

WGS

Fast Yellow

Mz, Math.

CD

Fast YellowTS

Mz

FillingBlue

Kip
Kip.

Fiin

Blue

Flavazine

S, L, T, R L

Flavazol
Fluorescine

Formyl
Formyl

G, R,

Blue

W
.

WGS

WGS
W
WG

B,

B,

SCh

WGS

Mz,

By,

Fuchsine

F C O O B

Math

Fuchsine

Mz.

W
.

O
R

WG,SS
W G, S S
G S, S S, C T

Kip, Math,

FullingBlack
FullingBlue G,

S, S S

WGS,WGSCh

By

Fuchsine

Full Blue

B,

10

Math.

Blue

S, WG

B,

S, S S, C

Mz

Math

Violet 4

Ch

Math

6836

S4B,S5B
Fram

WGS
.

Kip

Ch

Ch

Mz, Bs

WGS
.

Blue J B
Fullina;

Mz

C Dv

FullingBrown J B, J R
FullingRed B
FullingRed B, F G G, FR,
FullingRed J B
FullingRedR
FullingYellow J G, J R
Fulling Yellow O

Mz

C Dv

FuUino; Yellow

0 0

Indigo R,

PS

Gallanil Violet

GallocyanineB S, D
Geranium

G
B

Geranine

B, G

Black

Gold
Gold

Bs

WCh

Mz

WGS

Math

....WGS,

Mz

Ch

W
WCh

C T

N,

CD
.

W
.

Ch

Bs, By
By

Grenadine

Ch

WCh

S, S S, C

Math

Yellow

W
WCh

Mz, By, B

Kip.

Bordeaux

C Dv

Mz

Mz, By.

Orange

Guinea

WGS

.Bs
.

By

Glacier Blue
Gloria

G.

By
Kip
Kip
Kip

Gallanil Green
Gallanil

WGS

Math

W
.

S A

WG

S, CT

G S, S S

WG,SA,CT
WGS

230

DYELNG

THE

CX.EANING

AXD

Guinea

Carmine

G S

Guinea

Fast Green

G S

Guinea

Fast Violet 10 B

G S

Guinea

Green

Guinea

Red

Guinea

Violet 4 B

G S

Bv

C W

Math

C W

Mz

CWD

Math

CWD

Math

CWD

Mz

CWD

Math

WGS

B. G. B
4 R

Half wool

Black

Half wool

Black

Half wool

Blue

B.BD

Half wool

BlueG

Half wool

Black

S. 2B.

Half wool

Black

Hat

extra

3 B

F CMC

Black

Heliotropeand HeliotropeB.
Hessian

Bordeaux

Hessian

BiilHant

Mz,

B B. M

Hessian

Purple B.

D. X

Mz.

Blue

Indian

Yellow

Indian

Yellow

CD
A.

Mz, A.

A.N

Blue

CD
.

CD
.

Imperial Black
ImperialScarlet
Violet Cn^stals
Imi^erial
Indamine

CD

Mz, A, Bv

Violet
New

CD
.

Bs

Yellow

Hoechst

By

Mz, A, By

Purple

Brown

Hessian

A,

Mz

Hessian
Hessian

2 B

B. N extra

By
By

CD
.

CD
.

Mz

WGS

At

WGS

By

WGS

At

WGS
C T

R.Mz
Bv

G S. S S

Math

CD

Indisen Blue B B. R

Kip

CD

N
IndiioBlue

Math

G. R. F F

B N

Indiso Blue

IndocvanineB.BF.2R.2RF.

Janus

Black

Janus

Blue

B.R

2. D

G S, S S
Vat

Math

WGS

Kip

WGS
WA

Mz

G S, S S

Bv
0.1.

Mz
.

2 N. 2 N Greenish, S V

Blue

WGS

..A
.

Intense

Math
Mz

CD

Kip

Indigo Blue R B
Indigo Substitute B, B S pat
Indigo Svnthetic 100*^ powder.
IndigotineL No. L50
Indigotineextra L and No. 1
InduHne

WGS

Mz

SA

Mz

SA

TEXTILE

OF

Janus

B, R
Gray B, B B
Green B, G

Janus

Yellow

FABRICS.

231

Mz

S A

Mz

S A

Mz

S A

Mz

S A

Brown

Janus
Janus

Kermesine

G R

Blue B 4

Ketone
Kimensi

IvitonBlue
Green

Kiton

Red

Lake

R, F R R,

Scarlet F

F R

Scarlet

I, C R

B, S G,

Kip
Kip
Kip

G S

G S

G S

Math

WGS

6 B

Mz

WGS

Math

WGS

Math

Lazuline

By
S

W
.

Blue

Green

Mz

Lanaglaucme W
Laundry Blue B, 1,2, 3
Light

CD

L,

RL,2RL
Lanafuchsine

Madras

S, S S, C

WGS,SS
WGS

At

CD

At

Blue V

WGS

At

BlueRR

S
Mz, Kip
Magdalia Red
W G, S A, C
Math
Magenta
extra
Magenta extra large crystals,
small
yellow,largecrystals,
W G, S A, C
Mz
refined
double
crystals,
W G, S A, C
Math
Magenta largecrystalsB
W G, S A, C
Kip
Magenta I
A, K, Kip,
Malachite
Green
Math..WN,SA,CT
.

Malachite

Green

B,

Green

Malachite

Green

No.

Manchester

Green
Brown

T
T

Mz

Mz

Mz

N, S A, CT
N, S A, CT

la, Superior and

12

Malachite

and

crystals
Malachite

ish
F, Bluish, Yellow-

Black

Madison

Ch

WGS

B
Luzon

G S

R R,

GG,2R
Lake

S, S S

At

G S

Kip

Orange G,

Kiton

Mz

N, G, R

N N

KetoneGreen

Mz

Orange

Powder
E

E,

P S

Math

N, S A, C
N, S A, C

T
T

C T

232

Mandarine
Blue

1,^2
R X,

Mz
I

Mekon

N, S A, CT
W G S, S S

Mz
Mz, B

Maroon

WGS
WGS

extra, GR
Oran2:e G extra

Mandarine
Marine

CLEANING

AND

DYEING

THE

YellowG, R
B

Kip

CD

At

CD

Meridian

Green

Meridian

Violet ol

At

CD

MericHan

Yellow

At

CD

0 0 0

3 B. 3 B extra

Metanil

Red

Metanil

Yellow

Mz.

K,

Metaphenvlene Blue

B. B B

A.

Bs,
Math,

WGS

Math

WGS

Mz, K, Kip.

Alkali Blue

Methvl

WGS

By

See Alkali Blue

B
Blue

MethVl

Blue

for Cotton

Mz

Methvl

Blue

for Silk

Mz

Methylene

Blue

Methvlene

Blue

B B

Blue

B B extra

Methylene

Blue

D. D B. D B B

N, S A, CT

Mz

N, S S, C T

Mz

N, S S, C T

cone,

Mz

WN,SS,CT

extra

3 R. D

Zinc free, pure

Dark
Blue 3 B X. R

Grav

Green

Methvlene

Green

Methvlene
Methvlene
3 R

Methyl

X, S S, C

Mz

X, S S, C

Mz, By

G, G G, O

HeUotrope
Violet

Eosine

F, G, X D,

N, R

C T
.

extra

cone

A extra

Mz

Methylene
Yellow

B. B

."

F, O, R

SS,CT
W N;.S A, CT
W N, S S, C T

WN.

Mz
.

pat

Methvlene

Mz

Blue

Methvlene

DMz

6 R.

5 R

Methvlene
X

3 R, 5 R.

Blue

X, S S, C T

Math

BlueG

Methvlene

tra,
ex-

cone

Methvlene

SS

B. and

cone.

Methvlene
B

WG

Mz, B.

cone

S S, C T
S,SS,C A

Math

Methvl

Mz

X. S S. CT

Mz

X, S S, C

Mz

X. S S. C T

A,
A, Kip. .W X, S S, C
.

Methyl Violet
Methyl Violet
Methyl Violet
4B,5B,6B
Methyl Violet

2 B N

B, c,p.

Math.

BO
4 B

D,

0,

R,

R,

Methyl
Methyl
Methyl

Violet

RO,RSJ
Superior

Water

Blue

Mikado

Brown
2

G,

R,

G,

G,

6 G

4 R

MillingYellow

cone,

4 R

Nako
Nako

Red

Nako

Yellow

Mz,Bs....
Mz, Bs

CD

CD
.

O
O

W
W

A,

G S

WCh

Ch

Mz

Fur

Mz

Fur

Mz

Fur

Mz

Fur

r^^

Mz

Mz

Magdaha

Red.

Mz, Bs, Math.

G S

Bs

G S

See

By
Math

B, B D F
6

Ch

NaphtoRubine
Naphthol Black
Naphthol Black

B, 4 B,

By
.

G S

G S Ch

S, W

At

NaphthogenBlue2R, 4R

D,

Math

Naphthalene Acid Black S

Naphthalene Blue B, 5 G, D L.
Naphthalene Green cone. V
Naphthalene Pink or Scarlet
Napthalene Yellow
NaphthazurineBlue O

12 B

Yellow

CD

Mz

1,O, O O

G, 3 R
Black O, O P, D B
Brown
D, P, PS, D

Nako

Math

Moline
Mordant

A, C T

Mz

G, F R, G, R

MillingScarlet

S
,

b ti

Mz, Bs

W
F F

CD
.

Millino;Blue 2 Rex

MillingRed

a
b A,
G, c.

R,

4R,5R
2

G,

8 G

Yellow

SW,WG,SA,CT
..Math....WG,SA,CT
Mz
WG,SA,CT
B
WG,SA,CT

G,

Orange G, R,

w
W
.

R,5 R Mz, Math.

Mz, Bs

Gold Yellow

Mikado

Math

Violet BSC

Mikado

and
B, crystals

Kip, B

Violet

w
r
^ A
Math....WG,SA,CT

Violet R,
Methyl
^

Mikado

W
.

3 B

A, CT
G, S A, C T

WG,

.Mz
.

extra

Methyl

233

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

C Dv
W

Printing

B,
Math

WGS

234

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

Naphthol Black D
Naphthol Black P, N Y,
Naphthol Blue 2 B
Naphthol Blue G R
Naphthol Blue Black A
Naphthol Green B, O 0
Naphthol Orange
Naphthol RedC
Naphthol Red O
Naphthol Red S, G R
Naphthol Yellow
Naphthol Yellow S

G,

4 R

Black

NaphthVlBlue
Naphthvl

4 B

G S

Math

G S

Math

Math

G S

WGS

Math

WGS

Mz

WGS

P K

WGS

Kip

WGS

Mz, Bv, Kip,

Math,B..

WGS

WA

Brown

WGS

Pink

Kip

WGS

Yellow

WGS

WGS
CD

B
N

Y), N,
WGS

R, S B. S 2 B, S 3 B. F B B. F B.Math

Naphthvlene
Biue. B
Navv

Nerol

Black

B,

B. B

2 G

new,

Black

Blue

Blue

Neutral

Violet O

Neutral

Wool

New

Acid

B 1u

e w

Green
e

Mz

NewCroceineR
Croceine

New

Direct Blue

N, W

G S

S A, W
W

N,

N
G S

WGS

Bv

G X. 3 B X

New

Math

B. G

NewCroceine

WGS

Mz

Black

S, S S, CT

Mz

R, 3 R

Neutral

B,

2 B G, 4 B G

Nerol

Mz

B G. R

Blue

WGS

Kip

NaxiBlue V.
Na^w

CD

Bv

Red
W,

WGS

6 B D

(M

SS, WG

Math

Black

K. 4 B

2 B

Blue

Math

Bv

Black

Naphthylamine
Naphthylamine
Naphthylamine
Naphthvlamine
Naphthvl Blue

Mz

lOB.ESN

N.6BN,

S E

Naphthol Yellow
Naphthvl amine

Mz

S S

G S

WG

S, S S
WGS

CD

.A

CD

236

DYEING

THE

CLEANING

AND

R
OrseillineB,
Black

Ortho

3B

OrthoCeriseB
Black

examine

B,

Black

examine

Blue

examine

Blue

examine

Brown

examine

Copper

examine

Dark

examine

Fast Bordeaux

examine

Fast Red

examine

Green

examine

Maroon

examine

Pure

C Dv

CD

CD

CD

R R

CD

G, R

CD

CD

CD

CD

CD

CD

examine

Red

CD

examine

Violet B

CD

Bs

CD

4 R

B
A

Blue

B,

WGS
WGS
CD

B, R
R, R X,
G, G R

Brown

B
B H

Blue

WGS

D,

MT

Oxamine

S, SS

A
A

G, R
B R, M

Cyanine B,

Ortho

WG

R, G R, G R

F,MT,RR
exblood8851

A, A M, AT,
B, B G, B M, B Z, B Z S, C B S,
D, N, N F, N R, s e e e e, N
s A, T, R, R R, s e e e, w,
F F C extra, F F G, A F F, J E,
Math
J E I,J B, J W
exy Diamine Blue 3 R,G, 3 G, 5 G Math
Math
exy Diamine Brown R M, R e
Math
exy Diamine Orange G, R
Math
Gxy Diamine Violet B, G, R

CD

Math

CD

exy

Black

Diamine

CD
CD

...

Gxy Diamine Yellow G G

Gxy Diaminogen G D, E F,

Math

CD

Mz

CD

4B,MM

Gxydianil Yellow
Palatine

Black

Palatine

Chrome

Black

Palatine

Chrome

Blue

Palatine

Chrome

Bordeaux

Black

CD

N,

EM,FF,FFG

Pluto

CD

WGS
WGSCh
WACh

W2B,2B.B

B, G, R, A,

B
3

B, C R,

G S Ch

TEXTILE

OF

T G extra cone,
A
L cone,
C F extra, F extra, B S

tra,
extra,
ex-

S S extra
Pluto Brown
Pluto

Ponceau

B extra

Ponceau
Ponceau

B O extra, B
Brilliant 4 R

Ponceau

O, B O G.

CD

Mz

G S

Math

G S

G S

Mz, Math.

HP

By

Ponceau

J, J J

Math

PonceauR
C

R, 3 R, 2 R

L,

Ponceau

3 R

B,

4 R

B,

6 R

B,

5 R, 6 R

Primula

B,

Mz

WGS,SS

Mz

(powder)
(pure)

Mz

double

Mz
.

Orange Y, 3G

WCh
.

WGS,SS
WGS,
SS,CT
.W G S, S S, C

.Mz

cone.

PyronineB,G..
Pyrotine Orange
Pyrotine R R O
Yellow
Quinoline
^

Red

Mz, Bs. WG

S, SS, CT

Bs

WGS

Bs

WGS

Mz, A, By,

B
Violet R

Math,

B
.

WGS,SS
S W, C

S, 4 R S, 5 R extra,

5RS

RedY,YB,YG,Y2G
Regina Violet,alcohol and
soluble
Resorcine Brown
Resorcine Yellow

CD

Red

WCh

Mz,Math.
Kip

PureBlueBSJ
O cone,
Purple Blue O

S, S S
WGS,SS
G, S A, C T

YB.-.Mz
Crystals,

Blue

WGS,SS
WGS,SS

10

R B, S extra, S S extra
Ponceau

G S

3 R

CL

Pyramine

WGS,SS
WGS,SS

Mz, A,B

Ponceau

Ponceau

Pure

CD

Ponceau4GB

Prune

CD

2G,GR,GR2,GRCLMz

Ponceau

Prune

CD

By
By
By
By

MillingBlack
OrangeG

Pluto

237

FABRICS.

WGS,SS,CT

Mz

WGS,SS

WGS.SS

WGS

A, K

WGS

water

238

DYEING

THE

PJiodamine

B,

CLEANING

AND

3 B.

extra,

G, G
Mz, Kip. B.

extra

Rhodamine
6 G D

6 G. 6 G

D,

6 G

Rhodamine

extra

Rhodamine

G,

5 G

B, O, R

Rhodinduline

Red

RhocUnduline

Red

Rhodinduline

Blue

G, S
R, G S

By
Kip
Kip, B
By
By

A, S A, C T
A, S A, C T
W G S, S S

0 extra

6 G

B. B extra,

extra,

6 G

D,

Bengal

Rose

AT

Rose

Bengal
Bengal

Ro.se

Bengal

G S, S S

\y G S, S S
W G S, S S

6 G

G,
D

Math,
A, B

B. 3 B cone,

A, S A, C T

Mz, Bv.

B B, G

Ro.?e

G S, S S

C Dv

Mz

extra

RosazurineB,

Kip

Bordeaux

Rosazeine

G S, S S

C T

Mz

Rosanthrine

W
.

Kip, Math.

Rocelline

Rubin

Mz

.Bv

extra.

Rocelline

6 G,

A, S A
A, S A, C T

extra,

extra

Rhodamine

Kip, B

3G,5G,6G

Rhodamine

CD
...

\Y A. S A

B.
.

A, S

Mz

A, S A

Math

A, S
WCh

Ruffigallol

S A, C T

extra

Mz, Math.

Mz

S A, C T
S A, C T

Safranine B cone
Safranine B S

Mz

C T

Math

S A, C T

Safranine F F extra, No. O

Safranine G extra

Bv

S A. C T

Safranine A X
Safranine

Safranine
Safranine
Safranine
Safranine
Safranine
Safranine
Safranine

A X

G G

F, G G

A, Math.

S A. C T
.

S A. C T

Math

S A. C T

G G S

Mz, Math.

S A, C T

0. P K

Math

S A, C T

Purple

RS,Resinate

Math

S, 150 T

Math

N, N Y

A, C
SA,CT
SA,C1
SA,CT

Safrosine
Salacine

Black

Salacine

Blue

D, P, P T
B

G S Ch

G S Ch

B, R, R C
Salacine Yellow G, 2 G, D
Salacine

G S Ch

G S Ch

Red

Scarlet B

extra

Scarlet E

C,

CD
W

Mz

R, F R R,

F R

Math

G, G G, G L, G R

Scarlet BR

Scarlet GRCL

Mz

1,G V

Scarlet R

Mz, By
Mz, Math.
Mz, Kip

Scarlet R B C
Scarlet R

L, 2 R
Scarlet 2RCL,3RCL
4

R,

S, S S
G S, S S
WGS

S, S S
C A I

Mz

Scarlet R

for cotton
Scarlet

Brown

Salacine

239

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OF

S, S S
W G S, S S
W G S, S S
WGS

Mz

L, R V L, 3 R, 3 R L,
6 R

R,

Mz

Scarlet S

Math

Silk Blue

Mz

SS

Silk Gray O

Mz

S A

Silk Induline

Mz

Solamine
Sohd

crystals

B, R, F F

Blue

Blue

D,

D,

Sohd

R,

Brown

Solid Green

yellowishL, N

J J

O, O

Math

WGS

Math

WGS
W

Mz
.

Soluble

Mz, Bs, Math.

Soudan

Red

G,

B B

Sulfamine

Pink
Brown

WCh
S S

Brown

Substantive

C R

A, B,

93

S, S S
G S, S S, C T

Solid Violet
Blue

CD

Kip.
Kip

Sorbin

S, C

D,

3 R

S, S S
G S, S S

3RD,6G
Solid Blue

WGS

CD

CD

Bs

B
Sulphin
Sulpho Black G, R
By
3
SulphoCyanine, G, R, 5 R, G R.By
Sulpho Cyanine Black B, 2 B
By
Sulphon Acid Blue B, R, 3 R extra,
G
By
D
Azurine
Sulphon
Mz, By
Sulphon Oran2:eG
By
Sulphon Yellow G, 5 G, R
By

Ch
CD

WGS
WG

S, WCh
WGS
WGS
W

A, C
WGS
WGS

240

DYEING

THE

Sulphur Black T,

CX"AX1XG

AXD

extra.

A, A W

extra, 2 B extra. T B extra, 4 B. A

Mz
Sulphur Black L. X, S T

Sulphur Blue L extra

Sulphur Bronze
Sulphur Brown G, 2 G
Sulphur Brown T B G,
Sulphur Corinth B
Sulphur Cutch R
Sulphur Indigo B
'SulphurYellow R extra
Sun

Sulphur
Sulphur
Sulphur
Sulphur
Sulphur
Sulphur
Sulphur
Sulphur
Sulphur
Sulphur

Mz
A
T B M

.Mz
.

Mz
A
A
A

YeUow

A, Bv.

Mz,

Kip

.C D
.

CD

Tabora

Black

Tannin

Brown

Math

CT

Tannin

Hehotrope
Orange R Paste

Math

C T

Math

C T

Tannin

and Powd

Tartrazine.

Mz,

extra

Tliiazine Brown

G R

TliiazineRedG.R

Thiazol Yellow
Thio

Brown

3 G, G L

Thio

Fla\ine

CD
W

CD

Math

C T

WN,SA.CT
WGS
.

G.R

Green, Violet

BlueO

Toluidine

Blue

Toluvlene

Oranire
Toluvlene
Orans^e G, R, R R
\lolainine B, 3 B. G, R, A
BE.RGE.RBE

WGS

Bs

CD

Math

CT

Kip

CD

Bs

CD

A. B

CD

Mz

CD

CD

2 R,

Mz

WGS,SS

Violet 5 B. 6 B

By

Violet 5 R

Bv....WGS,SS,CT

Violet 4RN

Kip.

Walnut

Bro^^ii A. B

G S, S S

Math

Bs.

G, R M, R

Brown

Tolaniine
Toledo

S A. C T

Bs

Yellow

Tobacco

CD

0,OOO.Mz

ThioRubv
Thio

Powder.Math

Tliio Fla\dneT

TlnonineBlueGO,0,0
ThioOrangeG

CD

Bs

G S

Bv, A

2 B. R

Tliio BroT^Ti R. Paste and

Kip, B.

Mz,

Math

C T

WGS,SS,CT
.

CT

Blue

A....SS,WGS,CAL
W

Soluble Eosine

Kip
Kip

S S, C T
G S, S A

Violet S

Water

Blue 0 0

Water

Rose

Water
Wood

Black

Wool

A,

Black

Wool

S S, C T

Math

B, B S, R, B B
Water
Blue R, R C, 2 R, ADR,
4RW,5RW,L
Water

241

FABRICS.

TEXTILE

OP

B,

B,

4 B

F,

WGS
WGS
WGS
WGS

Black

G,

Wool

Black

Wool-Blue

B,

At

B, R,

G S

B,

6BW,GR
Wool

S, S A
G S, S S

5 B

Wool

Blue FS

Mz

Wool

Blue K

WGS

Wool

Blue

By

WGS
WGS

SR

N, R extra, 5 R,
extra

tra,
ex-

Wool

Blue S

Wool

Fast Blue B

L, G

Wool

Gray
Wool Gray B, B double,G,

Wool

Green

B, BS

Wool

Green

Wool

Jet Black

Wool

Red

Wool

By
R

Bs

WGS

Kip
By, Kip
Kip, B

WGS
WGS
.

WGS
WGS

Math

WGS

Red

extra

Wool

Red

R, G

WGS
WGS

Wool

VioletR

Wool

Yellow

WGS

B,

3 B

Xanthine
Yellow

Mz, Kip

Math

WGS

WGS,SS

Kip
By
Kip

Yellow WR
Black
Zambesi

G S S S
,

CD

CD

CD

CD

CD

CD

Blue 4 B

CD

Zambesi

Blue

Zambesi

Brown

Zambesi
Zambesi

Gray B
IndigoBlue

Zambesi

Pure
16

A
S S

AT

YellowT
Yellow

B, B X, R
G

2 G

244

INDEX.

Belladonna, preserv^edjuice of, 14

solutions for dyeing, 148-150
and benzo-purpurine, 53
Benzo-azurine
of potash, 22, 27, 58
Bichromate

Benzine

in

Bilge water

purify, 123
Speck dye

boats,

to

Black, cold, 43; see

cotton, to color,80-81
66, 73
copperas,
composition of, 33-42
for silk,140
for wool, 50
in

Bleaching liquor,care
to

using, 87, 89, 107

87

prepare,

powder, 35, 87
89
to detect and
remove,
80
for
77.
cotton,
Blue, dark,
51, 53,
for wool. 49, 53, 57, 73, 78, 82

Blood-stains

color, 75

to

cotton,

78
indigo,for yam,
light,for wool, 55,73

medium, 73
Prussian, 77-80
to shade, 34
123-124

Bluing,

Bluestone,

51

Boiling in dyeing, when

under,

Bone,
Brown,

dye;

to

to

be

avoided, 27

51

Ivory

see

catechu,

75

composition of, 34
dark

olive,55

light,55-56
medium,
to

shade,

union

for wool, 72, 74, 83

34

dyed,

40

Buff

color, 53, 56, 76

Buttons, when to remove

Calico,to iron, 124

Camphor, to powder, 12
Cane-staining,194
Carbon
disulphide,153
tetrachloride, 155
Carbonizmg, 28, 70, 71

Carpet rags, to dye, 46

Carpets, to dye, 185
to

sweep,

109

Catechu, 23, 75,

Caustic

191

potash, 31, 161

soda, 31, 161, 163

in

re-dyeing,32

245

INDEX.

Cellulose, 120;
skin,
Chamois
Chlorine;

see

fibre
and wood
Cotton
to cleanse and soften, 110
see

Bleaching-powder

safety in using, 153

Cistern water, to purify, 123
Cleansing compound for silk and
Chloroform,

170

woollen,

colored cotton, hints in washing,

Clothes,
to

fold from

to

iron, 124

i/b
17.3, 17R
130

the line,124

Colchicum,
preserved juicesof, 14
sensitive
to acids, 137
Colors

Concentration,

Copperas,

51, 52

Cotton, colored, to treat, 129

goods, white, to treat, 120. 174
in linen goods, to detect, 126
effects on,

oxidation

120

51

raw,

and determine, 31
prepare for magenta, 47
Crape, black silk,to renovate, 114
china-crape scarf, to wash, 114
Crayon, colored school, to make, 185
detect

to

to

Crossdyeing, 37,

68

7
Crystallization,
means

Cutch;

see

of separatmg and
Catechu

..

punfymg,

Catechu

Cutchine;

see

Dealers

in

dyewares, 44, 45

Decant,

Decantation, 8
Decoction, 5

90, 176
Detergent liquids,

Developing colors, 24
Direct cotton
dyes, 50
26
colors,
dyeing
Distillation, 10
a

as

Domestic

means

of

.r

separatmg and punfymg,

,n

10,

finish,156

Drab

color, 39, 52, 63, 75

Dress

goods, 46

iDresses, colored woollen, to clean, 106

cotton, to clean, 132

Dry cleaning,153
Dye bath, additions

to, 24, 27

kettles. 32, 33

Dyeing experiments

with

nature

instructions, 24, 27, 85

the art defined, 20

u
.
substances,

at

0/

11

11

246

INDEX.

de Javelle, 87; see Javelle water

Emery, to get the specificgravity of,etc., 16
Equitable heat for Uquids, 9
Essential oil,to obtain, 14
Eau

Evenness, 25,

Exhausting
Faded,

27

the

bath, 27, 41

32

Fastness of colors,37, 42, 46, 50, 51

Feathers, directions for cleaning and
list of acid dyes for, 178, 179
to dye with acid colors, 178
with basic colors, 178
Fillingup, 42, 65, 70
Filtrate,3
Flannels; see Underwear
red, to wash, 97

dyeing, 177

iron, 107

to

wash, 96
white, to prevent yellowing,97

to

Foxglove, preserved juiceof, 14

Fractional
condensing, 11
Frock, to iron, 124
Fugitive colors,98
Fusible metals, to powder, 12
Fustic, 23, 63, 66, 81,

142

Gall, ox, 101, 110, 117

Gambier; see Catechu
Gasoline, solutions for dyeing, 149, 150
Gingham articles,to wash, 132
Glass, to powder, 13
Glauber
salt,24, 25, 41, 46
Gloss finish,156
Gloves, kid, to protect from perspiration,143
to clean, 143, 144, 146, 147
to

dye,

148

black,
without
to

prevent

to

remove

148

wetting, 148
stiffness
stains

of, 149

from, 146

Gold,
powder,
specificgravity of, 15
13

to

Granulation,

11

Grapes, to express the juice of, 13

Gray color, composition of, 34
for woollens, 81

Green, bright,69
to

shade

and

to

color,41

darken, 34

247

INDEX.

Gum

tragacanth, 112,
104

water,

Handkerchiefs,
Hard

115

bleach, 88

to

119

water,

preserved juiceof, 14
Hemmed
edges, when to let out, 32
in redyeing, 85
Hints
to success
Hose; see Stockings
Hydrogen peroxide, 119, 180
Hydrometer, see Specificgravity
Hemlock,

Baume,
how

19

poised and

TraUes,

graduated,

Indicators, showing if solutions

Indigo blue, 78

zinc-powder vat,
Infusion,
when

19

17-19

are

79

preferableto decoction,6
Decoction

see

Ink, magenta,
Iron buff, 76

48

Ivory, aniline dyes for,198

202
artificial,

etching-varnishfor, 201
fluid for marking, 200
to

bleach, 199
clean, 202

to

dye, 196,

to

199

black, 196, 197

blue, 198
red, 197

softened,199

when

etch, 201

gUd,

201

harden,

199

poHsh,

200

render

198
flexible,

silver,201
spots, to

remove

yellowed, to

from, 196
whiten, 199

Javelle water, 87
Khaki

color; see

Iron buff

Lace, silk,or thread, to clean, 126

to iron, 125
Lack

of

attention,32

acid

or

alkaline,137

248

INDEX.

Lavender, 34, 75;

the nap,

see

Purple

Laying
Leaching, 164
Leather-bleaching,180
98

acid method, 182

oxidation
method,
method.
reduction

toppling method,
Lightning eradicator, 176
Lime

water,

Linen;

see

182

78
Cotton

of

action

180
181

goods

sulphuric acid

on,

134

dye,
yellow, to bleach, 126
Logwood, 23, 66, 67
the color changed by acids,135
24

to

Maceration, 14

Magenta, 47
(acidmagenta), 49
ink, 48

liquor,48
color, 34, 42
Mildew, 95; see Salt as a preventive of
Mordant
colors, 58-60
effect of, in redyeing, 159
Maroon

for cotton,

22

weighting silk,23
wool, 24, 37
to

detect, 159, 160

wool colors,71

Mordanted

Mould,

95

Mulberries,

to

express

the

juice,13

Muslin, colored, to treat, 129,

130

Nap, to restore and lay, 105

Napkins, to bleach, 88
the juiceof, 13
Narcotic plants,to preserve
Nicholson
Nitrate

blue,

43

of iron, 80

Oil of vitriol;see Acid, sulphuric

Oil-soluble colors, 150
Olive color, 41, 73, 77
One-dip colors; see Acid alizarines
Afterchromes
see
see
Direct-dyeing colors
Metachromes
see
Monochromes
see
Sour dyes
see

249

INDEX.

One-dip colors;

Saddened
Union
dyes

see

see

colors

Orange color, composition of, 34,

to dye, 48

48

shade, 34
very fast,75
to

Oranges,

to

Overchromed
Oxalic acid;

juice of, 13
colors; see Afterchromed
see
Acid, oxalic

Package dye,
Paint,

to

to

from

clothes, 103
the juice of, 13

express

Permanganate of potash, 123

Peroxide
of hydrogen; see Hydrogen
95, 103
Perspiration-stains,
Pique, to renovate, 129
Pitch,

to

colors

62

remove

Peaches,

the

express

peroxide

92

remove,

Poling, 64
Instructions for
Saddened
colors

see
see

dyeing

Porphyrization, 12
Potassium
Potato

bichromate, 22, 24,

pulp as a cleanser, 112

27

Precipitation,2
Preparation; see Mordant
medium,

71

light,71
regular,71
Press

finish,to make

plates,105
Pressing,157;
Proof
spirit,18,
Pulverization,

permanent,

158

177

12

Purple, 75; see Lavender

composition of, 34

Quercitron, 82
Red

color, 39, 47, 53, 57, 74

Redyeing, 69, 70
Resist dyeing, 69,
Ribbons,

silk

70

satin, to clean, 139

using solvents
prevent, when
or

Ring, to
Rinsing, 121, 122, 154
Ripping garments before redyeing, 32
Rose

color, 48,

Rosin,

to

remove,

49

92

on

grease-spots,91, 92

250

INDEX.

Saddened

colors, 62. 63, 65, 66

Saddening, 51
Sage color, 39
Salt as a preventive of mildew, 95
in soap-making. 162
to brighten colors. 110
to fasten colors on
prints,51
Sampling. 43
Sand

bath. 10-11
ribbons, etc.. to clean, 139
Scarlet color. 34. 48
Scorched
linen or cotton,
to remedy, 125
silk.
for
117
Scouring liquid
Satin

Shading.
Shawls,

57

colored, to wash, 115

clean. 97

to

Shirts, to iron, 124

Shot.

12
33

Shrinking, 32,

for

Silk, colored, to prepare,

colors for. 46
handkerchiefs,
old.

to

be

rendyeing,138

cleanse and sulphur, 113, 119

and redyed, 15B9

cleanse. 22
for black, 115

to

raw.

to

cleaned

cleansingand

114

renovate.

to

crape,

157

107, 154,

prevent,
Side tub, 39
to

renovator

ribbons,

wash, 112, 115,

to

139

stockings.102
tar, grease, and ofl,to
to dye black, 140

crimson,

to

violet, 141
iron, 125

to

remove

to

wash.

imions.

111.

to

from, 119, 173

142

drab or gray,
red. 141, 142

wax

remove

142

from.

93

115, 118

cleanse. 112

washing-soap for, 116

Siphon. 8, 9
Slate color, 34, 40, 54, 55, 59, 73
blue. 54

Soap,

161

Windsor, 168
carbolic. 170
dear boiling of, 162

brown

oocoanut,

163

oold process,

171;

see

Soap"-filled

252

INDEX.

133
Stains,acid,from clothing,
87
bleaching-powder for,
fruit and vegetable,86, 89

from

grease,

nitric acid,

182

paper,
133

perspiration,95
sulphuricacid, 134
to

30

remove,

Standing bath, 51, 52

Starch, Chinaman's, 127
colored,

186

make,

to

gloss,128
tablets, 129

laundry, 155
Stockings,to clean,102
silk, to clean, 113

Strippines,34
Substantive

colors,22, 41, 50

Sudsing water, 121

Suggestions in applying reagents, 138
Sulphur colors,38, 50, 68
for wood,

Sulphuric acid;
Sulphuring, 138

see

187

Acid, sulphuric

cloths, to bleach, 88
of, 27, 41, 50, 51
salt,uses
to
white stains from the varnish, 183
remove
tops,
Taffeta,black, to wash, 116
Tan
color,34, 58
from hands and clothing,110
Tar, roofing,to remove
Table

to

Tarring
Tartar

92

remove,

in

dyewares,

emetic,

to

avoid, 25,

47

23

for

dyeing, 26
Temperatures
Tendering by boiling,30
Tetrapole, 101, 104, 110, 132
Textiles, liquidsto remove
grease

from, 173

Tinctures, dose of, 14

substitutes
for, 14
the

best

Topchromes;

part of the plant for,14

see

Afterchromes

Underwear, 107, 108; see Flannels and

Union
dyeing, 27, 36, 38, 42
the bath for,38
to prepare
dyes, 38
to shade, 34
dyewares, to select,44
goods, 38

Woollens

253

INDEX.

see
Indigo
Vegetable color,67, 138
juicesby expression,13

Vat;

Veils,black lace, to clean, 109

Veneers; see Wood
dyeing
acetic
Vinegar; see Acid,
Violet

color,49

Wash

leather;

see

Washing colored
bath, 9,

Water

skin
clothes, hints for, 130
Chamois

11

correction, 122
Wax,

to

from

remove

W^eight of

from

body

Wetting out,

garments,
the

93

specificgravity, 16

26

color, 34, 57

Wine

Wood-dyeing, 186
blue dye for, 188, 189
bright red for, 188, 189
yellow for 188, 189
fibre,186
green
orange

dye for, 189

dye for, 188

dye black, 187

Wood-staining, 190
to

black, 191
bro^Ti, 191

mahogany,
rosewood

Wool

carpets,

to

191, 192, 194, 195

imitation, 193
clean, 100

dye, 185
clips(paint and tar), 104
to

Woollen,

43

cloths,

to

to

clean, 99, 108

the

restore

lustre,104

colored, to wash, 106

cloth garments, to press, 157
cloth, soiled and stained, to treat, 98
cloth, to prevent shrinking,98, 102
fleece, to wash. 21, 22
stockings and hose, to clean, 102

suit, to clean, 99
done

to

look

to wash,
whiten, 93
Worsted, 46

Woollens,

well,158

108

to

46. 78

Yam,
Yellow

color, 46, 53, 179. 189

chrysophenine for, 53
Yellowed

woollens,

to

treat, 93

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